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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
+Washington Irving
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
+       Digested From His Journal
+
+Author: Washington Irving
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2006 [EBook #1372]
+Last Updated: September 14, 2016
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE
+
+Digested from his journal
+
+by Washington Irving
+
+
+Originally published in 1837
+
+
+
+
+Introductory Notice
+
+
+WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria,
+it was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with
+the subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at
+the table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur
+trade in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various
+persons of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own
+great undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to
+the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia.
+
+Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain
+Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of
+enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the
+soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme
+of the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him
+may not be unacceptable.
+
+Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old
+emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his
+abode in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for
+the sordid struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy
+temperament, a festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that
+made him proof against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar;
+well acquainted with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics.
+His book was his elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire,
+Corneille, or Racine, or of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he
+forgot the world and all its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer
+weather, seated under one of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of
+St. Paul’s church in Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by
+his side, his eyes riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul
+so engaged, as to lose all consciousness of the passing throng or the
+passing hour.
+
+Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his
+father’s bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter
+was somewhat disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He
+was educated at our national Military Academy at West Point, where he
+acquitted himself very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which
+he has ever since continued.
+
+The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for
+a number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West.
+Here he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders,
+mountain trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so
+excited by their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their
+accounts of vast and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart,
+and an enterprise to explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his
+ambition.
+
+By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality.
+Having made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading
+enterprise beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave
+of absence, and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the
+major general in chief, on his offering to combine public utility with
+his private projects, and to collect statistical information for the War
+Department concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit
+in the course of his journeyings.
+
+Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the
+ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand
+dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom
+any thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which
+belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great
+focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any
+scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to
+meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been
+his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship
+for him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain;
+introduced him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little
+while an association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised
+to carry the proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient
+persons in this association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a
+youth, had accompanied one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to
+his commercial establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished
+himself by his activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr.
+Seton was one of the American youths who were at Astoria at the time
+of its surrender to the British, and who manifested such grief and
+indignation at seeing the flag of their country hauled down. The hope
+of seeing that flag once more planted on the shores of the Columbia, may
+have entered into his motives for engaging in the present enterprise.
+
+Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition
+into the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after
+year elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence
+expired, yet no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington.
+He was considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from
+the army list.
+
+It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob
+Astor, at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was
+then just returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the
+mountains, and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the
+hopes of being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn,
+his wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity
+and his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like
+Corporal Trim in his campaigns, he had “satisfied the sentiment,”
+ and that was all. In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted
+soldier, and had inherited too much of his father’s temperament, to make
+a scheming trapper, or a thrifty bargainer.
+
+There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that
+prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and
+well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service,
+gave him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open,
+and engaging; well browned by the sun, and had something of a French
+expression. He had a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he
+kept his hat on, the look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but
+the moment his head was uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a
+few more years than he was really entitled to.
+
+Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with
+the Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him
+a number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled
+modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of
+voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature
+of his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking
+personage before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related.
+
+In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of
+Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow
+adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered
+with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing
+at a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large
+barrack room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and
+war dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with
+pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting.
+In a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at
+court, by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his
+travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he
+sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of
+somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures
+of authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes.
+
+The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently
+put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before
+the world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the
+mountains, and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red
+men, among whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress
+of his character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his
+susceptibility to the grand and beautiful.
+
+That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have
+occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various
+sources, especially from the conversations and journals of some of the
+captain’s contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes.
+I have also given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation,
+during an excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of
+civilization; as I before observed, however, the work is substantially
+the narrative of the worthy captain, and many of its most graphic
+passages are but little varied from his own language.
+
+I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his
+manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I
+found him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which,
+I believe, possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary
+documents of the kind, of being sincere, and being merited.
+
+To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor,
+whose anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants,
+have endeared him to the service as The Soldier’s Friend; and whose
+general amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and
+unwearied benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The
+Friend of Man, this work is inscribed, etc.
+
+
+WASHINGTON IRVING
+
+
+
+
+1.
+
+     State of the fur trade of the--Rocky Mountains--American
+     enterprises--General--Ashley and his associates--Sublette, a
+     famous leader--Yearly rendezvous among the mountains--
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade--Bands of trappers--
+     Indian banditti--Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers--Traders
+     of the--Far West--Character and habits of the trapper
+
+IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr.
+John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade
+at the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that
+enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and
+of the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its
+dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have
+stated, likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government
+in neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the
+American flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate
+himself in the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the
+post was formally given up by the British government, though still
+occupied by the Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty
+in the country has been virtually lost to the United States; and it will
+cost both governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on
+that just and rightful footing on which they would readily have been
+placed had the proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now
+state a few particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader
+up to the period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for
+the circumstances of our narrative.
+
+In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr.
+Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further
+attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the
+Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country.
+They did not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat
+surreptitiously attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and
+their old rivals, the Hudson’s Bay Company; which was carried on at
+great cost and sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It
+ended in the ruin of most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and
+the merging of the relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival
+association. From that time, the Hudson’s Bay Company enjoyed a
+monopoly of the Indian trade from the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky
+Mountains, and for a considerable extent north and south. They removed
+their emporium from Astoria to Fort Vancouver, a strong post on the left
+bank of the Columbia River, about sixty miles from its mouth; whence
+they furnished their interior posts, and sent forth their brigades of
+trappers.
+
+The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United
+States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the
+great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra
+incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808,
+by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped
+upon the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships
+sustained by Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other
+intrepid Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains,
+appeared for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction.
+The American traders contented themselves with following up the head
+branches of the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams
+on the Atlantic side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those
+great snow-crowned sierras.
+
+One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General
+Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the
+prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West.
+In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post
+on the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year
+pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of
+the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name
+of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by
+others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of
+trapping organized beyond the mountains.
+
+It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and
+perseverance of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these
+early expeditions, and first broke their way through a wilderness where
+everything was calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse
+the most dreary and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes,
+uninhabited by man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel
+savages. They knew nothing of the country beyond the verge of their
+horizon, and had to gather information as they wandered. They beheld
+volcanic plains stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled
+up to the clouds, and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing
+of their defiles, nor how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They
+launched themselves in frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither
+their swift currents would carry them, or what rocks and shoals and
+rapids they might encounter in their course. They had to be continually
+on the alert, too, against the mountain tribes, who beset every
+defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or attacked them in their night
+encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of trappers that first entered
+into these regions, three-fifths are said to have fallen by the hands of
+savage foes.
+
+In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up,
+originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these
+we may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William
+Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of
+romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various
+modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold
+out his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded
+him was Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has
+become renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of
+game descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of
+Boon, having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian
+warfare, and killed in one of the contests of the “Bloody Ground.” We
+shall frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to
+the credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert
+Campbell were prominent members.
+
+In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and
+excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once
+more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder
+of the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the
+company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown,
+who still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued
+between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and
+the trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great
+tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these
+formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory
+enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of
+adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers,
+who either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the
+service of one or other of the main companies.
+
+The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions,
+from the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish
+settlements of California, have been traversed and ransacked in every
+direction by bands of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is
+scarcely a mountain pass, or defile, that is not known and threaded in
+their restless migrations, nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by
+the lonely trapper.
+
+The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the
+mountains. Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that
+is to say, partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move
+about from place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic
+they wish to monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they
+employ in trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands,
+or “brigades” as they are termed, of trappers in various directions,
+assigning to each a portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground.
+In the months of June and July, when there is an interval between the
+hunting seasons, a general rendezvous is held, at some designated place
+in the mountains, where the affairs of the past year are settled by the
+resident partners, and the plans for the following year arranged.
+
+To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their
+widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their
+year’s campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to
+traffic their peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort
+hither also, to sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their
+services for the next hunting season.
+
+To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from
+its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some
+experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the
+resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year’s
+machinery in motion.
+
+Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are
+anxious to discover each other’s plans and movements, they generally
+contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart.
+An eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of
+supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this
+purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic
+frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that
+can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition,
+scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the
+greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free
+trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able,
+also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to
+get the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the
+hunting and trapping grounds.
+
+A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping
+competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and
+outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of
+the Indian tribes; to cross each other’s plans; to mislead each other as
+to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian
+trader is the disadvantage of his competitor.
+
+The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of
+the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their
+most profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man
+has opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no
+idea. The introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful
+hunters, but at the same time, more formidable foes; some of them,
+incorrigibly savage and warlike in their nature, have found the
+expeditions of the fur traders grand objects of profitable adventure.
+To waylay and harass a band of trappers with their pack-horses, when
+embarrassed in the rugged defiles of the mountains, has become as
+favorite an exploit with these Indians as the plunder of a caravan to
+the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet, who were such terrors
+in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria, still continue their
+predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to greater system. They
+know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to waylay them on
+their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons, and where to
+hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper, therefore,
+is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his weapons in his
+hands.
+
+A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system
+of things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the
+trade in furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the
+expeditions were carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or
+boatmen were the rank and file in the service of the trader, and even
+the hardy “men of the north,” those great rufflers and game birds, were
+fain to be paddled from point to point of their migrations.
+
+A totally different class has now sprung up:--“the Mountaineers,” the
+traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue
+their hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from
+place to place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in
+which they are engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast
+plains and mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities,
+seem to make them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial
+race than the fur traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting
+“men of the north.” A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially
+different from a man who cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly,
+hardy, lithe, vigorous, and active; extravagant in word, and thought,
+and deed; heedless of hardship; daring of danger; prodigal of the
+present, and thoughtless of the future.
+
+A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and
+those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter,
+generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well
+sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within
+the reach of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is
+comparatively free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of
+the upper wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy,
+self-dependent and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by
+chance comes among them on his way to and from the settlements, he
+is like a game-cock among the common roosters of the poultry-yard.
+Accustomed to live in tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises
+the comforts and is impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If
+his meal is not ready in season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest
+or prairie, shoots his own game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast.
+With his horse and his rifle, he is independent of the world, and spurns
+at all its restraints. The very superintendents at the lower posts
+will not put him to mess with the common men, the hirelings of the
+establishment, but treat him as something superior.
+
+There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says
+Captain Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril,
+and excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the
+free trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the
+trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles
+a mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his
+path; in vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose
+his progress; let but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he
+forgets all dangers and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be
+seen with his traps on his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid
+streams, amidst floating blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be
+found with his traps swung on his back clambering the most rugged
+mountains, scaling or descending the most frightful precipices,
+searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse, and never before trodden
+by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to his comrades, and where
+he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the mountaineer, the hardy
+trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly sketched it, is the
+wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange and motley populace,
+now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur
+trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted
+with the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the
+introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their
+enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far
+West.
+
+
+
+
+2.
+
+     Departure from--Fort Osage--Modes of transportation--Pack-
+     horses--Wagons--Walker and Cerre; their characters--Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies--Wild equipments of
+     the trappers--Their gambols and antics--Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers--Agency
+     of the Kansas--General--Clarke--White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief--Night scene in a trader’s camp--Colloquy between--
+     White Plume and the captain--Bee-hunters--Their
+     expeditions--Their feuds with the Indians--Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume
+
+
+IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his
+departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had
+enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been
+in the Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and
+trappers. Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western
+wilderness, abound with characters of the kind, ready for any
+expedition.
+
+The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions
+of the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville
+substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless
+wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open
+plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in
+every direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines
+cut through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is
+often necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for
+the wagons.
+
+In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville
+thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing
+the horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also
+would be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or
+being frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would
+be more easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case
+of attack in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen,
+or by four mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition,
+and provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party,
+which was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or
+lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr.
+J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee,
+about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit,
+though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on
+the frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where
+he went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated,
+he engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the
+Pawnees; then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as
+sheriff, trader, trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain
+Bonneville.
+
+Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe,
+in which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size,
+light complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was
+considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with
+Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats
+and summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies
+distressing; and before the annual assemblages of people connected
+with the fur trade should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting
+grounds.
+
+The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company
+and the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of
+rendezvous for the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre’s
+Hole, a deep valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain
+Bonneville intended to shape his course.
+
+It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy
+captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters,
+trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his
+face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest
+spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat
+high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what
+then must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated
+by a residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region
+of romance!
+
+His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already
+experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a
+renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance
+and equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half
+savage. Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their
+garbs and accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in
+barbaric style, with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of
+adventurers on one of these expeditions is always animated and joyous.
+The welkin rang with their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the
+savages; and with boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they
+passed the straggling hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts
+of the frontier, they would startle their inmates by Indian yells and
+war-whoops, or regale them with grotesque feats of horsemanship,
+well suited to their half-savage appearance. Most of these abodes were
+inhabited by men who had themselves been in similar expeditions; they
+welcomed the travellers, therefore, as brother trappers, treated them
+with a hunter’s hospitality, and cheered them with an honest God speed
+at parting.
+
+And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character
+and quality, between the two classes of trappers, the “American” and
+“French,” as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant
+to designate the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the
+trapper of the old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others
+of the western States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter,
+softer, more self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife,
+his lodge, and his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes
+little heed of landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to
+think for the common weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed
+and lost.
+
+The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service
+of the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart
+of the mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark;
+can retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most
+perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can
+appal him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping
+the two kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the
+light fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what
+he calls the “shot-gun.” We give these estimates on the authority of
+a trader of long experience, and a foreigner by birth. “I consider one
+American,” said he, “equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity,
+aptness at resources, self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In
+fact, no one can cope with him as a stark tramper of the wilderness.”
+
+Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville
+had enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting
+qualifications he placed great reliance.
+
+On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation,
+and bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The
+buoyant and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march
+gradually subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found
+the prairies saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain
+seasons of the year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank
+deep in the mire, the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed
+and rider were completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they
+reached the Kansas River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide,
+entering the Missouri from the south. Though fordable in almost every
+part at the end of summer and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to
+construct a raft for the transportation of the wagons and effects. All
+this was done in the course of the following day, and by evening, the
+whole party arrived at the agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under
+the superintendence of General Clarke, brother of the celebrated
+traveller of the same name, who, with Lewis, made the first expedition
+down the waters of the Columbia. He was living like a patriarch,
+surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all snugly housed, and provided
+with excellent farms. The functionary next in consequence to the
+agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and, indeed, indispensable
+personage in a frontier community. The Kansas resemble the Osages in
+features, dress, and language; they raise corn and hunt the buffalo,
+ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at the time of the
+captain’s visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the Nebraska, or
+Platte River.
+
+The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among
+these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything
+minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of
+excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy
+with which their race is so often reproached.
+
+The personage who most attracted the captain’s attention at this place
+was “White Plume,” the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends.
+White Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited
+a large stone house, built for him by order of the American government:
+but the establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style.
+It might be palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between
+the stateliness of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the
+gallant White Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see
+in the gala equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy
+at Washington, who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and
+military coat, in contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging;
+being grand officer at top, and ragged Indian at bottom.
+
+White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased
+with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him
+a day’s journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the
+margin of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by
+the captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square,
+at the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval
+there was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men
+cooked, ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre
+of the square, with a guard stationed over them at night.
+
+The horses were “side lined,” as it is termed: that is to say, the fore
+and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as
+to be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for
+a time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to
+the restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his
+being easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that
+is “foot free” is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it
+were, a pivot, round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm.
+The encampment of which we are speaking presented a striking scene.
+The various mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing,
+sitting, and reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their
+weapons: while the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry
+story was going on. In the middle of the camp, before the principal
+lodge, sat the two chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in
+soldier-like communion, the captain delighted with the opportunity of
+meeting on social terms with one of the red warriors of the wilderness,
+the unsophisticated children of nature. The latter was squatted on his
+buffalo robe, his strong features and red skin glaring in the broad
+light of a blazing fire, while he recounted astounding tales of the
+bloody exploits of his tribe and himself in their wars with the Pawnees;
+for there are no old soldiers more given to long campaigning stories
+than Indian “braves.”
+
+The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men;
+he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders
+for whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species
+of hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of
+the ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western
+frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the
+reader.
+
+The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a
+long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living
+on new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the
+harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three,
+and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and
+a number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into
+the wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south,
+without any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which
+strictly forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian
+tribes.
+
+The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the
+rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their
+hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich
+flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion,
+are migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well
+experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has
+passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred
+miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee
+go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is
+but recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or
+Platte; and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there
+about the same time.
+
+Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to
+make a wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches
+of forest on the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which
+they have detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any
+other bee hunter that should come upon their track. When they have
+marked sufficient to fill all their casks, they turn their faces
+homeward, cut down the trees as they proceed, and having loaded their
+wagon with honey and wax, return well pleased to the settlements.
+
+Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the
+white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its
+having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their
+lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them
+and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden
+with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the
+native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut
+to pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way
+they can, happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound
+rib-roasting.
+
+Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made
+the most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western
+part of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier,
+and whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas
+tribe. According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were
+pretty fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often
+treated them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the
+sweets.
+
+It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of
+having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity
+to the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He
+required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the
+worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his
+native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader.
+
+
+
+
+3.
+
+     Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills--Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River--Scanty fare--Buffalo
+     skulls--Wagons turned into boats--Herds of buffalo--Cliffs
+     resembling castles--The chimney--Scott’s Bluffs Story
+     connected with them--The bighorn or ahsahta--Its nature and
+     habits--Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or
+     goat of the mountains
+
+FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western
+course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered
+miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had
+to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw
+bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat;
+the thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning,
+early, but rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant
+breezes, however, which sweep these vast plains render the heats
+endurable. Game was scanty, and they had to eke out their scanty fare
+with wild roots and vegetables, such as the Indian potato, the wild
+onion, and the prairie tomato, and they met with quantities of “red
+root,” from which the hunters make a very palatable beverage. The only
+human being that crossed their path was a Kansas warrior, returning from
+some solitary expedition of bravado or revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp
+as a trophy.
+
+The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route
+took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects.
+The vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical
+shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have
+their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to
+leave flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole
+country may originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills;
+but through some process of nature may have sunk to its present level;
+these insulated eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid
+rock.
+
+Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of
+Red River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of
+country, is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and
+position of grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by
+some subterranean agitation. “The resemblance,” says he, “which these
+very remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious
+in the extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the
+pre-Adamites.”
+
+On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or
+Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The
+low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain
+Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred
+yards from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the
+bottom full of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered
+with that species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up
+along the course of this river for several days, they were obliged,
+from the scarcity of game, to put themselves upon short allowance,
+and, occasionally, to kill a steer. They bore their daily labors and
+privations, however, with great good humor, taking their tone, in all
+probability, from the buoyant spirit of their leader. “If the weather
+was inclement,” said the captain, “we watched the clouds, and hoped
+for a sight of the blue sky and the merry sun. If food was scanty,
+we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon falling in with herds of
+buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and eat.” We doubt whether
+the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness of his own breast,
+which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him.
+
+There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always
+equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated
+with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical
+figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost
+innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in
+thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase.
+
+On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where
+it divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these
+branches rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the
+Arkansas. Up the course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well
+aware, lay the route to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the
+northern Mexican settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its
+sources might lie among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and
+foam down rugged defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction
+was in the true course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute
+his route to the Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from
+quicksands and other dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this
+neighborhood, he kept up along the south fork for two days, merely
+seeking a safe fording place. At length he encamped, caused the bodies
+of the wagons to be dislodged from the wheels, covered with buffalo
+hide, and besmeared with a compound of tallow and ashes; thus forming
+rude boats. In these, they ferried their effects across the stream,
+which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift and strong current. Three
+men were in each boat, to manage it; others waded across pushing the
+barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A march of nine miles
+took them over high rolling prairies to the north fork; their eyes being
+regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo at a distance, some
+careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in the natural meadows.
+
+Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by
+musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th,
+a small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of
+singing birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary
+of Missouri. After so many days of weary travelling through a naked,
+monotonous and silent country, it was delightful once more to hear
+the song of the bird, and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was
+a beautiful sunset, and a sight of the glowing rays, mantling the
+tree-tops and rustling branches, gladdened every heart. They pitched
+their camp in the grove, kindled their fires, partook merrily of their
+rude fare, and resigned themselves to the sweetest sleep they had
+enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies.
+
+The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the
+river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and
+wind their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary
+passes they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom
+they supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara
+or Crow Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at
+night, and to keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged
+and elevated regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a
+species larger than the ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and
+mountainous countries. They had reached also a great buffalo range;
+Captain Bonneville ascended a high bluff, commanding an extensive view
+of the surrounding plains. As far as his eye could reach, the country
+seemed absolutely blackened by innumerable herds. No language, he says,
+could convey an adequate idea of the vast living mass thus presented to
+his eye. He remarked that the bulls and cows generally congregated in
+separate herds.
+
+Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which
+is among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The
+lower part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the
+summit shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet
+in height, from which it derives its name. The height of the whole,
+according to Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards.
+It is composed of indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white
+sandstone, and may be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles.
+
+On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated
+clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches,
+and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to
+persuade one’s self that the works of art were not mingled with these
+fantastic freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott’s
+Bluffs, from a melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party
+were descending the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail
+barks were overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being
+thus rendered useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting
+and had to depend upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After
+suffering extremely from hunger, they arrived at Laramie’s Fork, a small
+tributary of the north branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above
+the cliffs just mentioned. Here one of the party, by the name of Scott,
+was taken ill; and his companions came to a halt, until he should
+recover health and strength sufficient to proceed. While they were
+searching round in quest of edible roots, they discovered a fresh trail
+of white men, who had evidently but recently preceded them. What was to
+be done? By a forced march they might overtake this party, and thus be
+able to reach the settlements in safety. Should they linger, they might
+all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott, however, was incapable of
+moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward, and dreaded that such
+a clog would prevent their coming up with the advance party. They
+determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate. Accordingly, under
+presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be efficacious in
+his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the trail.
+They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest, but
+concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had died
+of disease.
+
+On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in
+company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning
+skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for
+the remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where
+they had abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had
+crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries.
+The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave
+have ever since borne his name.
+
+Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first
+time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents
+these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such
+scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from
+crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains,
+under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower
+than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice,
+so high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems
+a pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations,
+doubtless from a feeling of security.
+
+This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often
+confounded with another animal, the “woolly sheep,” found more to the
+northward, about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise
+inhabits cliffs in summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter.
+It has white wool, like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long
+hair; but it has short legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its
+horns are about five inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as
+jet, and beautifully polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This
+animal is by no means so active as the bighorn; it does not bound much,
+but sits a good deal upon its haunches. It is not so plentiful either;
+rarely more than two or three are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives
+a resemblance to the sheep; it is more properly of the flesh is said to
+have a musty flavor; some have thought the fleece might be valuable, as
+it is said to be as fine as that of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to
+be procured in sufficient quantities.
+
+The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a
+deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep,
+and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it
+more sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in
+the Rocky Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude,
+quite down to California; generally in the highest regions capable of
+vegetation; sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least
+alarm, regains its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous,
+if not impossible for the hunter to follow.
+
+
+
+
+4.
+
+     An alarm--Crow--Indians--Their appearance--Mode of approach
+     --Their vengeful errand--Their curiosity--Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet--Loving conduct of the Crows--
+     Laramie’s Fork--First navigation of the--Nebraska--Great
+     elevation of the country--Rarity of the atmosphere--Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons--Black Hills--Their wild
+     and broken scenery--Indian dogs--Crow trophies--Sterile and
+     dreary country--Banks of the Sweet Water--Buffalo hunting--
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook
+
+WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best
+hunters in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look
+out for game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying
+up the banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving
+their caps, and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians!
+
+The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and
+announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the
+river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the
+most roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains;
+horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of
+sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for
+action, and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him
+in the general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency.
+
+Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his
+little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld
+the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty
+of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and
+mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They
+came prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous
+evolutions, for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their
+bright colors, and flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring
+and sparkling in the morning sunshine, gave them really a striking
+appearance.
+
+Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and
+ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct
+hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a
+furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left,
+and wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling
+like maniacs.
+
+This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching
+the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the
+pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship.
+The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship.
+
+The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their
+village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already
+been five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were
+determined not to return home until they had sated their revenge.
+
+A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the
+country at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of
+Captain Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished
+at the long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the
+sight of a cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them
+to be some kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they
+carried back to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He
+had, in consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold
+the wonders described to him. “Now that we have met you,” said he to
+Captain Bonneville, “and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our
+hearts are glad.” In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by
+these people as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen
+by them before, and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but
+the calf was the peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it
+with intense interest as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and
+were struck with the mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect
+docility.
+
+After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must
+be the “great medicine” of the white party; an appellation given by the
+Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded
+as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture,
+however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse;
+their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they
+declined the bargain.
+
+At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together,
+and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was
+well pleased with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the
+“unsophisticated sons of nature,” who had so long been objects of his
+poetic speculations; and indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one
+of the most notorious of the mountains. The chief, of course, had
+his scalps to show and his battles to recount. The Blackfoot is the
+hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom hostility is like a cherished
+principle of religion; for every tribe, besides its casual
+antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can be no permanent
+reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole, are enemies
+worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first water. As
+their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they often come
+in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to keep
+their wits awake and their passions alive.
+
+The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious
+character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that
+they were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was
+friendly in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their
+attentions, and had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It
+was not until after separation on the following morning that the captain
+and his men ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the
+course of their fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the
+pockets of their white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their
+coats, and, above all, to make free with their hunting knives.
+
+By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain
+Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47’ north. The thermometer,
+at six o’clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two
+o’clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o’clock in the
+evening, at seventy degrees.
+
+The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance,
+printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and
+threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers.
+
+On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie’s Fork, a clear
+and beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an
+average width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows
+abounding in currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and
+clumps of trees.
+
+By an observation of Jupiter’s satellites, with a Dolland reflecting
+telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57’
+west of Greenwich.
+
+We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three
+years after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell,
+formerly of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte
+from this fork, in skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been
+discredited, that the river was navigable. About the same time, he built
+a fort or trading post at Laramie’s Fork, which he named Fort William,
+after his friend and partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the
+Platte has become a highway for the fur traders.
+
+For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the
+great elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the
+effect of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons.
+The wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually
+working out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props
+to prevent their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one
+of those great steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity
+of the atmosphere renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these
+regions there is a fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is
+scanty and short, and parches up in the course of the summer, so that
+there is none for the hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a
+common observation that “above the forks of the Platte the grass does
+not burn.” All attempts at agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood
+of Fort William have been attended with very little success. The grain
+and vegetables raised there have been scanty in quantity and poor in
+quality. The great elevation of these plains, and the dryness of the
+atmosphere, will tend to retain these immense regions in a state of
+pristine wildness.
+
+In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and
+broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their
+journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines
+incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the
+day was spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up
+ravines, forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging
+them with ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of
+their horses were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and
+stony roads. The travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief
+storms, which would come hurrying over the hills, or through the
+mountain defiles, rage with great fury for a short time, and then pass
+off, leaving everything calm and serene again.
+
+For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs,
+prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large
+pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail--altogether,
+they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors
+would keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the
+first stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they
+reached some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep
+a sharp and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers
+were fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving
+hangers-on would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the
+half-picked bones, the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having
+made a hasty meal, with many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow
+leisurely on the trail of the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax
+or catch them, but in vain. Their quick and suspicious eyes caught
+the slightest sinister movement, and they turned and scampered off. At
+length one was taken. He was terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled
+as if expecting instant death. Soothed, however, by caresses, he began
+after a time to gather confidence and wag his tail, and at length was
+brought to follow close at the heels of his captors, still, however,
+darting around furtive and suspicious glances, and evincing a
+disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm.
+
+On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path.
+They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne
+scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards,
+to appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had
+been revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant
+rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means
+disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages,
+and above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They
+remarked one precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to
+protect their hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had
+to pass, they had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide.
+
+The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the
+Nebraska or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced
+to the margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits.
+One of these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a
+range of low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore
+traces of some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto
+the various strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the
+southwest, but here everything appeared to have been subverted, and
+thrown out of place. In many places there were heavy beds of white
+sandstone resting upon red. Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags
+and cliffs; and sometimes formed perpendicular walls and overhanging
+precipices. An air of sterility prevailed over these savage wastes. The
+valleys were destitute of herbage, and scantily clothed with a stunted
+species of wormwood, generally known among traders and trappers by the
+name of sage. From an elevated point of their march through this region,
+the travellers caught a beautiful view of the Powder River Mountains
+away to the north, stretching along the very verge of the horizon, and
+seeming, from the snow with which they were mantled, to be a chain of
+small white clouds, connecting sky and earth.
+
+Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even
+sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow
+were to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the
+travellers were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole
+region.
+
+The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to
+a much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains
+below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current.
+The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides
+rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks;
+then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes
+impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and
+rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley.
+
+On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the
+Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and
+making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time
+over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the
+Sweet Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five
+feet deep, flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one
+of the forks or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now
+shaped their course for several successive days, tending, generally, to
+the west. The soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified.
+Frequently the plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock,
+sometimes in the shape of a half globe, and from three to four hundred
+feet high. These singular masses had occasionally a very imposing, and
+even sublime appearance, rising from the midst of a savage and lonely
+landscape.
+
+As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more
+sensible of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more
+generally capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics,
+sore lips and mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons
+also shrank so much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept
+from falling to pieces. The country bordering upon the river was
+frequently gashed with deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to
+avoid which, the travellers were obliged to make wide circuits through
+the plains. In the course of these, they came upon immense herds of
+buffalo, which kept scouring off in the van, like a retreating army.
+
+Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who
+officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel
+situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he
+had suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of
+the camp. Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his
+station; and the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their
+exploits, inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity
+of their order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting
+opportunity for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march,
+all prepared for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung
+at the pommel of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his
+shoulder. While in this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in
+great alarm. In an instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on
+foot. Finding they were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and
+pulled [the] trigger. His shot produced no other effect than to increase
+the speed of the buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his
+heels, and scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after
+him, hallooing with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman
+soon disappeared among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville,
+who was at the head of the line, and had seen the transaction at a
+distance, detached a party in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they
+returned, leading the frightened horse; but though they had scoured the
+country, and looked out and shouted from every height, they had seen
+nothing of his rider.
+
+As Captain Bonneville knew Tom’s utter awkwardness and inexperience,
+and the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he
+halted and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt
+for him in the morning.
+
+At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every
+direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its
+course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters
+returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him
+in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused
+shouts of merriment in the camp,--but Tom for once could not join in
+the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and
+apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life.
+
+
+
+
+5.
+
+     Magnificent scenery--Wind River--Mountains--Treasury of
+     waters--A stray horse--An Indian trail--Trout streams--The
+     Great Green River Valley--An alarm--A band of trappers--
+     Fontenelle, his information--Sufferings of thirst--
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee--Strategy of rival traders--
+     Fortification of the camp--The--Blackfeet--Banditti of the
+     mountains--Their character and habits
+
+IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight
+of the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains.
+He had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along
+the river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent
+prospect burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River
+Mountains, with their bleached and snowy summits towering into the
+clouds. These stretched far to the north-northwest, until they melted
+away into what appeared to be faint clouds, but which the experienced
+eyes of the veteran hunters of the party recognized for the rugged
+mountains of the Yellowstone; at the feet of which extended the wild
+Crow country: a perilous, though profitable region for the trapper.
+
+To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness,
+with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This,
+however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or
+Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering
+tribe of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the
+enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous
+scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him.
+We can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have
+contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great
+fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of
+those mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles
+of varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of
+the Atlantic and the Pacific.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the
+whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form,
+as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length,
+and from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with
+eternal snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and
+rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid
+streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of
+the Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give
+rise to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the
+West, that empties its current into the Gulf of California.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters’ and trappers’
+stories: their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their
+neighborhood, having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the
+mountains, and scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It
+was to the west of these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee
+Agie, or Green River, that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt
+for the purpose of giving repose to his people and his horses after
+their weary journeying; and of collecting information as to his future
+course. This Green River valley, and its immediate neighborhood, as
+we have already observed, formed the main point of rendezvous, for
+the present year, of the rival fur companies, and the motley populace,
+civilized and savage, connected with them. Several days of rugged
+travel, however, yet remained for the captain and his men before they
+should encamp in this desired resting-place.
+
+On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of
+the meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little
+distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself
+quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of
+the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal;
+lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity.
+After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party,
+which had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The
+horse was accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more
+vigilant watch than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his
+former owners should be upon the prowl.
+
+The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of
+July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets,
+and the thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the
+atmosphere continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the
+wheels were incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length
+devised. The tire of each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed
+round the exterior of the felloes, the tire was then made red hot,
+replaced round the wheel, and suddenly cooled with water. By this means,
+the whole was bound together with great compactness.
+
+The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the
+feet of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their
+peaks, which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above
+the level of the sea.
+
+On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and
+keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most
+southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march
+of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running
+to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout.
+
+The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they
+had reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on
+the western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken.
+The stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be
+tributary to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed
+at some distance to the south.
+
+Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the
+crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in
+being the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled
+provinces of Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the
+Pacific, with wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously,
+reached the valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the
+mountains; but had proceeded with them no further.
+
+A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one
+side by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of
+high hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter
+in his company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same
+informant would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet
+deep, which he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was
+convinced, however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so
+wide a valley and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an
+early hour, on its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day
+to reach the main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the
+distant range of western hills.
+
+On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making
+directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at
+as brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About
+eleven o’clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the
+rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given;
+they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured
+that the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the
+neighborhood of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some
+secret fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on
+the open plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations
+were immediately made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to
+reconnoitre. They soon came galloping back, making signals that all was
+well. The cloud of dust was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted
+trappers, belonging to the American Fur Company, who soon came up,
+leading their pack-horses. They were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an
+experienced leader, or “partisan,” as a chief of a party is called in
+the technical language of the trappers.
+
+Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from
+the company’s trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous,
+with reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties
+beyond the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with
+a band of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen
+upon the trail of Captain Bonneville’s party, just after leaving the
+Nebraska; and, finding that they had frightened off all the game, had
+been obliged to push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men
+and horses were, therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to
+halt; the plain before them he said was destitute of grass and water,
+neither of which would be met with short of the Green River, which was
+yet at a considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party
+were all on horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by
+nightfall: but he doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville’s
+arrival there with his wagons before the day following. Having imparted
+this information, he pushed forward with all speed.
+
+Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit.
+The ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued
+to move rapidly. After a long and harassing day’s march, without pausing
+for a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o’clock at night,
+to encamp in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the
+following morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to
+slake their thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse
+grass, here and there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a
+great part of this Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the
+rain cannot penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In
+some places it produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the
+streams; but the wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It
+was not until noon that Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the
+Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of the West; in the meantime, the sufferings
+of both men and horses had been excessive, and it was with almost
+frantic eagerness that they hurried to allay their burning thirst in the
+limpid current of the river.
+
+Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had
+managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up
+by the exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were
+obliged to pass the night upon the road.
+
+On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across
+the river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance
+below, where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant
+pasturage. Here the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take
+their rest: the weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in
+flesh and spirit; but this last march across the thirsty plain had
+nearly finished them.
+
+The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the
+fur trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with
+Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of
+Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them
+four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was
+somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had
+calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the
+rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his
+competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free
+trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to
+endeavor to bring them to his camp.
+
+As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that
+both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it
+was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his
+camp with breastworks of logs and pickets.
+
+These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the
+bands of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood.
+These savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the
+inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order,
+always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the
+tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain
+horses, and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a
+family, and entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils.
+The veteran warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the
+consequence which success gives them among their people.
+
+They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short,
+stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis.
+When on a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk
+through the country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and
+ravines, and use more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode
+of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the
+night time. If they succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with
+headlong fury: if the enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear,
+they become wary and deliberate in their movements.
+
+Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the
+greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of
+the Hudson’s Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the
+American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries
+for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond
+of spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready
+to exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and
+daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking
+hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by
+Mr. Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition
+across the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged
+constantly to keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men.
+
+Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes:
+such as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros
+Ventres of the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the
+Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further
+north.
+
+The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent
+at the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
+which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who
+keep about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white
+men.
+
+This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and
+numbers about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or
+three years they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the
+Arapahoes of the Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow
+country, and the Black Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces,
+Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state
+of hostility with all these tribes, their expeditions are prone to be
+conducted in the most lawless and predatory style; nor do they hesitate
+to extend their maraudings to any party of white men they meet with;
+following their trails; hovering about their camps; waylaying and
+dogging the caravans of the free traders, and murdering the solitary
+trapper. The consequences are frequent and desperate fights between them
+and the “mountaineers,” in the wild defiles and fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains.
+
+The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one
+of their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter
+we shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers,
+which had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville
+among the mountains.
+
+
+
+
+6.
+
+     Sublette and his band--Robert--Campbell--Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of “down-easters”--Yankee enterprise--Fitzpatrick--His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet--A rendezvous of mountaineers--
+     The battle of--Pierre’s Hole--An Indian ambuscade--
+     Sublette’s return
+
+LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified
+camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies
+from St. Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole. This
+party consisted of sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of
+packhorses. They were commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner
+in the company, and one of the most active, intrepid, and renowned
+leaders in this half military kind of service. He was accompanied by
+his associate in business, and tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert
+Campbell, one of the pioneers of the trade beyond the mountains, who had
+commanded trapping parties there in times of the greatest peril.
+
+As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell
+in with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This
+was a party of regular “down-easters,” that is to say, people of New
+England, who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their
+race, were now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with
+which they were totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and
+was maintained and commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This
+gentleman had conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon
+might be established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur
+trade. He had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he
+supposed, for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men
+in his employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of
+the wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the
+continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same
+way that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch
+forth on a voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific.
+
+With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and
+his men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the
+frontier, and found that the wilderness required experience and
+habitudes of which they were totally deficient. Not one of the party,
+excepting the leader, had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they
+were without guide or interpreter, and totally unacquainted with “wood
+craft” and the modes of making their way among savage hordes, and
+subsisting themselves during long marches over wild mountains and barren
+plains.
+
+In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed,
+or rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence,
+in Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled
+amicably together; the frontier men of Sublette’s party gave their
+Yankee comrades some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art
+and mystery of dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without
+accident at the upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River.
+
+In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the
+company who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came
+down from the rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole to meet them and hurry them
+forward. He travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet
+Water; then taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the
+other as a pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre’s Hole, to make
+arrangements against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting
+campaign before the rival company.
+
+Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the
+passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green
+River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to
+a halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the
+rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and
+setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once
+his mistake and his peril--they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his
+fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for
+the mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous
+defiles. Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone
+off, when he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his
+remaining horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For
+several days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost
+famished, having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept
+for self-defence.
+
+In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller,
+Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green
+River valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at
+hand. They had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which
+came down from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band
+of Indians burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and
+a discharge of guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than
+wounding one mule, and causing several horses to break loose from their
+pickets. The camp was instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with
+yells of exultation, carrying off several of the horses under cover of
+the night.
+
+This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some
+of Wyeth’s band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New
+England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette’s men,
+who were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued
+their march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their
+flanks, and arrived without further molestation at Pierre’s Hole.
+
+The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous,
+was for Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been
+received concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest
+he should have fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made
+the midnight attack upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy,
+therefore, when he made his appearance, conducted by two half-breed
+Iroquois hunters. He had lurked for several days among the mountains,
+until almost starved; at length he escaped the vigilance of his enemies
+in the night, and was so fortunate as to meet the two Iroquois hunters,
+who, being on horseback, conveyed him without further difficulty to
+the rendezvous. He arrived there so emaciated that he could scarcely be
+recognized.
+
+The valley called Pierre’s Hole is about thirty miles in length and
+fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken
+ridges, and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the
+three Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country.
+
+A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through
+the valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The
+meadows on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and
+cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be
+nearly impassable.
+
+In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the
+fur trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments,
+with their retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and
+half-breeds, assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly
+supplies, and their orders to start off in new directions. Here, also,
+the savage tribes connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish
+Indians, and Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and
+with their squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There
+was, moreover, a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant
+leader from Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little
+apart from the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage,
+amounting to several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in
+tents and lodges in the several camps.
+
+The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur
+Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened,
+and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement
+and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their
+several destinations.
+
+On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by
+Milton Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of
+proceeding to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his
+fifteen free trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver
+hunters and salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this
+opportunity to prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied
+with such experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about
+eight miles to the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the
+valley of Pierre’s Hole. On the following morning, just as they were
+raising their camp, they observed a long line of people pouring down a
+defile of the mountains. They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle
+and his party, whose arrival had been daily expected. Wyeth, however,
+reconnoitred them with a spy-glass, and soon perceived they were
+Indians. They were divided into two parties, forming, in the whole,
+about one hundred and fifty persons, men, women, and children. Some were
+on horseback, fantastically painted and arrayed, with scarlet blankets
+fluttering in the wind. The greater part, however, were on foot. They
+had perceived the trappers before they were themselves discovered, and
+came down yelling and whooping into the plain. On nearer approach, they
+were ascertained to be Blackfeet.
+
+One of the trappers of Sublette’s brigade, a half-breed named Antoine
+Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference.
+He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by
+the Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears
+his name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose
+once powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with
+the Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful
+hostility against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came
+to a halt. One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the
+pipe of peace. This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the
+Flathead were predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a
+treacherous movement.
+
+“Is your piece charged?” said Antoine to his red companion.
+
+“It is.”
+
+“Then cock it, and follow me.”
+
+They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in
+friendship. Antoine grasped it.
+
+“Fire!” cried he.
+
+The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the
+ground. Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly
+ornamented, and galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the
+bullets of the enemy whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw
+themselves into the edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood
+trees, interwoven with vines. Here they began to fortify themselves;
+the women digging a trench, and throwing up a breastwork of logs
+and branches, deep hid in the bosom of the wood, while the warriors
+skirmished at the edge to keep the trappers at bay.
+
+The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up
+a scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of “downeasters,”
+ they were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the
+wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use
+of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as
+a skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them;
+then, making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to
+remain in garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself,
+he mingled with the other leaders, determined to take his share in the
+conflict.
+
+In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for
+reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at
+their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his
+cap, and giving the alarm; “Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper
+part of the valley!--to arms! to arms!”
+
+The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one
+turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined.
+As fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was
+soon alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed.
+
+Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St.
+Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared
+for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and
+arming themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses
+and dashed forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their
+wills in soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be
+disposed of in case of his death, and appointing the other his executor.
+
+The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all
+the foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the
+whole valley suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field
+of action. They withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from
+sight in the dark and tangled wood. Most of their women and children
+had retreated to the mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and
+approached the swamp, firing into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet
+had a better sight at their adversaries, who were in the open field, and
+a half-breed was wounded in the shoulder.
+
+When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm
+the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place,
+and the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The
+very Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as
+almost impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to
+be turned from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp.
+Campbell stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous
+wood, Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he
+fell, Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done,
+he grasped his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell.
+Sinclair, the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with
+his brother and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the
+two friends, he pressed forward to share their dangers.
+
+The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming
+up a stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all
+overgrown with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that
+it was impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in
+peril had to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting
+the branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they
+should attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by
+turns, each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then
+hallooing to their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered
+the swamp, and followed a little distance in their rear.
+
+They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of
+the rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as
+we have said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and
+the leathern covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The
+movements of the leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried
+by the sharp-sighted enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was
+putting some branches aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on
+the spot. “Take me to my brother,” said he to Campbell. The latter gave
+him in charge to some of the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp.
+
+Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he
+perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle
+was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye.
+While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him
+the hole; “Watch that place,” said he, “and you will soon have a fair
+chance for a shot.” Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck
+him in the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought
+was to take hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and
+down. He ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken.
+The next moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took
+him in his arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that
+struck Sublette wounded another man in the head.
+
+A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered
+occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in
+searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number
+of Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others
+did the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place,
+which occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian
+was shot down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had
+been sped from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort.
+
+The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much
+increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were
+completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however,
+making no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork
+was kept up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in
+bravado, would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a
+buffalo robe or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his
+comrades. Most of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in
+the first part of the attack.
+
+At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws
+belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This
+however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the
+robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure
+would fall into their hands.
+
+The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other.
+During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief
+was heard.
+
+“So long,” said he, “as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the
+open field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our
+women and children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes,
+and you who are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There
+are four hundred lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be
+here--their arms are strong--their hearts are big--they will avenge us!”
+
+This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole
+interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was
+made to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking
+the encampment at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for
+hurrying to the defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep
+watch upon the fort; the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came
+on, the trappers drew out of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of
+the wood. By morning, their companions returned from the rendezvous with
+the report that all was safe. As the day opened, they ventured within
+the swamp and approached the fort. All was silent. They advanced up to
+it without opposition. They entered: it had been abandoned in the night,
+and the Blackfeet had effected their retreat, carrying off their wounded
+on litters made of branches, leaving bloody traces on the herbage. The
+bodies of ten Indians were found within the fort; among them the one
+shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet afterward reported that they
+had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle. Thirty-two horses were
+likewise found killed; among them were some of those recently carried
+off from Sublette’s party, in the night; which showed that these were
+the very savages that had attacked him. They proved to be an advance
+party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon the trail of
+Sublette’s party. Five white men and one halfbreed were killed, and
+several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and six
+wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In the
+course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood; but
+his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was
+proof against powder and ball.
+
+A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning
+after the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were
+approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of
+noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at
+her lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was
+dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either
+she was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud
+spirit kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on
+discovering her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled
+body fell upon the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have
+heard this anecdote discredited by one of the leaders who had been in
+the battle: but the fact may have taken place without his seeing it, and
+been concealed from him. It is an instance of female devotion, even to
+the death, which we are well disposed to believe and to record.
+
+After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the
+free trappers, and Wyeth’s New England band, remained some days at the
+rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an
+attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves
+in motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain
+Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on
+his return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from
+the trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his
+departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of
+this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of
+the followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and
+savage warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization.
+He and six others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred
+K. Stephens, of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel
+Boon, set out together, in advance of Sublette’s party, thinking they
+would make their way through the mountains.
+
+It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven
+companions were making their way through Jackson’s Hole, a valley not
+far from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party
+of Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The
+horse of the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with
+affright, and threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up
+the side of the hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his
+presence of mind, and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank,
+until the Blackfeet came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had
+fled on the first alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing
+his danger, paused when they got half way up the hill, turned back,
+dismounted, and hastened to his assistance. Foy was instantly killed.
+Stephens was severely wounded, but escaped, to die five days afterward.
+The survivors returned to the camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings
+of this new disaster. That hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the
+journey, set out on his return to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As
+they had a number of pack-horses richly laden with peltries to convoy,
+they chose a different route through the mountains, out of the way, as
+they hoped, of the lurking bands of Blackfeet. They succeeded in making
+the frontier in safety. We remember to have seen them with their band,
+about two or three months afterward, passing through a skirt of woodland
+in the upper part of Missouri. Their long cavalcade stretched in single
+file for nearly half a mile. Sublette still wore his arm in a sling.
+The mountaineers in their rude hunting dresses, armed with rifles
+and roughly mounted, and leading their pack-horses down a hill of the
+forest, looked like banditti returning with plunder. On the top of some
+of the packs were perched several half-breed children, perfect little
+imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf locks. These, I was
+told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love from their squaw
+spouses in the wilderness.
+
+
+
+
+7.
+
+     Retreat of the Blackfeet--Fontenelle’s camp in danger--
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet--Free trappers--Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses--Game fellows
+     of the mountains--Their visit to the camp--Good fellowship
+     and good cheer--A carouse--A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation
+
+THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from
+their wild fastness in Pierre’s Hole, fell back into the valley of the
+Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their
+band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy
+and exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives
+and children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive
+enterprise of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their
+wanderings they came in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who
+had moved some distance up Green River valley in search of the free
+trappers, they put up tremendous war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if
+to attack it. Second thoughts caused them to moderate their fury. They
+recollected the severe lesson just received, and could not but remark
+the strength of Fontenelle’s position; which had been chosen with great
+judgment.
+
+A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of
+which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however,
+knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care
+to inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might
+know there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference
+ended, Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen
+of the Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic]
+at that time two Crow Indians in the captain’s camp, who had recently
+arrived there. They looked with dismay at this deputation from their
+implacable enemies, and gave the captain a terrible character of them,
+assuring him that the best thing he could possibly do, was to put those
+Blackfeet deputies to death on the spot. The captain, however, who had
+heard nothing of the conflict at Pierre’s Hole, declined all compliance
+with this sage counsel. He treated the grim warriors with his usual
+urbanity. They passed some little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that
+everything was conducted with military skill and vigilance; and that
+such an enemy was not to be easily surprised, nor to be molested with
+impunity, and then departed, to report all that they had seen to their
+comrades.
+
+The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the
+band of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to
+his camp, had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August
+those worthies made their appearance.
+
+To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary
+to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur
+companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons,
+horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound
+to do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as
+hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard;
+and, in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired
+trappers.
+
+The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them,
+we shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them
+by Captain Bonneville. “They come and go,” says he, “when and where they
+please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and
+trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries
+to the highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they
+attach themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they
+come under some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules
+for trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such
+general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the
+camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they
+are bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who
+commands the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer
+seeking a market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from
+thirty to forty dollars for the whole hunt.”
+
+There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come
+to these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and
+are furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound
+to exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without
+skinning, they render in at the trader’s lodge, where a stipulated price
+for each is placed to their credit. These though generally included in
+the generic name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin
+trappers.
+
+The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages
+have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so
+than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them
+to discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to
+adopt the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian.
+You cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade
+him you have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the
+counterfeit is complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length,
+is carefully combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over
+his shoulders, or plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or
+parti-colored ribands. A hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes,
+or of ornamented leather, falls to his knee; below which, curiously
+fashioned legging, ornamented with strings, fringes, and a profusion of
+hawks’ bells, reach to a costly pair of moccasons of the finest Indian
+fabric, richly embroidered with beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some
+other bright color, hangs from his shoulders, and is girt around his
+waist with a red sash, in which he bestows his pistols, knife, and the
+stem of his Indian pipe; preparations either for peace or war. His gun
+is lavishly decorated with brass tacks and vermilion, and provided with
+a fringed cover, occasionally of buckskin, ornamented here and there
+with a feather. His horse, the noble minister to the pride, pleasure,
+and profit of the mountaineer, is selected for his speed and spirit,
+and prancing gait, and holds a place in his estimation second only to
+himself. He shares largely of his bounty, and of his pride and pomp of
+trapping. He is caparisoned in the most dashing and fantastic style; the
+bridles and crupper are weightily embossed with beads and cockades; and
+head, mane, and tail, are interwoven with abundance of eagles’ plumes,
+which flutter in the wind. To complete this grotesque equipment, the
+proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted with vermilion, or with white
+clay, whichever presents the most glaring contrast to his real color.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of
+the wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly
+characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their
+fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and
+long flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed
+blankets, and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them
+so much the air and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to
+persuade one’s self that they were white men, and had been brought up in
+civilized life.
+
+Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these
+cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and
+ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in
+the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow
+in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they
+would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast,
+and swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the
+free trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain’s
+band; mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard,
+or pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the
+veterans of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the
+hour, with prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of
+the wonders he had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his
+adventurous peregrinations among the mountains.
+
+In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp
+of Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new
+acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept
+their word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became
+“hail fellow well met” with Captain Bonneville’s men; treat after treat
+succeeded, until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather
+confounded, by liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free
+trappers were no longer suffered to have all the swagger to themselves.
+The camp bullies and prime trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and
+to brag, in turn, of their perils and achievements. Each now tried
+to out-boast and out-talk the other; a quarrel ensued as a matter
+of course, and a general fight, according to frontier usage. The two
+factions drew out their forces for a pitched battle. They fell to work
+and belabored each other with might and main; kicks and cuffs and dry
+blows were as well bestowed as they were well merited, until, having
+fought to their hearts’ content, and been drubbed into a familiar
+acquaintance with each other’s prowess and good qualities, they ended
+the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could have been rendered
+by a year’s peaceable companionship.
+
+While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and
+characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for
+the time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to
+collect from them information concerning the different parts of the
+country about which they had been accustomed to range; the characters
+of the tribes, and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He
+also succeeded in securing the services of several to guide and aid him
+in his peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during
+the ensuing season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable
+recruits, he felt in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware
+Indians, decoyed from him by Mr Fontenelle.
+
+
+
+
+8.
+
+     Plans for the winter--Salmon River--Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains--New arrangements--Caches--Cerre’s
+     detachment--Movements in--Fontenelle’s camp--Departure of
+     the--Blackfeet--Their fortunes--Wind--Mountain streams--
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear--Bones of
+     murdered travellers--Visit to Pierre’s Hole--Traces of the
+     battle--Nez--Perce--Indians--Arrival at--Salmon River
+
+THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain
+Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green
+River valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the
+depth of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in
+the neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far
+more eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither
+the captain resolved to bend his course.
+
+The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia;
+and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to
+the northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense
+shoals of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October.
+The salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo
+on the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man,
+that come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs
+find their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along
+the fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of
+the mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a
+sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great
+rivers, and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest
+tributory streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to
+penetrate even among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in
+the desert places of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the
+animals of the chase, and where, but for these periodical supplies, it
+would be impossible for man to subsist.
+
+The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the
+ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run
+up the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against
+impetuous streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and
+weak, and great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their
+backs. As the season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are
+flung in myriads on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to
+banquet on them. Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks
+as to taint the atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet
+long.
+
+Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the
+winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel
+rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods
+and supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present
+purposes, or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided,
+therefore, by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits,
+during the night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in
+these deposited the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All
+traces of the caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common
+expedient with the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no
+established posts and magazines, they make these caches or deposits at
+certain points, whither they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is
+an expedient derived from the wandering tribes of Indians.
+
+Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for
+a long scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one
+cavalcade, and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name
+of Matthieu. He was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to
+Bear River; a stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where
+there was good pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was
+expected he would meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly
+migrations, with whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After
+he had traded with these people, finished his trapping, and recruited
+the strength of the horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin
+Captain Bonneville, who intended to fix his quarters there for the
+winter.
+
+While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain
+Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of
+Fontenelle. One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived,
+in all haste, from the rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole, in quest of the
+supplies. The competition between the two rival companies was just now
+at its height, and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident
+partners, Fitzpatrick and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company,
+by Vanderburgh and Dripps. The latter were ignorant of the mountain
+regions, but trusted to make up by vigilance and activity for their want
+of knowledge of the country.
+
+Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of
+competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the
+two companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different
+directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to
+get first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown,
+were effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had
+enabled the various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start
+off to their respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his
+associate, Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for
+a prime beaver country to the north-northwest.
+
+This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to
+meet Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he
+immediately furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the
+head of the free trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed,
+determined to follow hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of
+the adventures of these parties among the mountains, and the disastrous
+effects of their competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a
+future chapter.
+
+Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his
+errand, struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone.
+Captain Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green
+River valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the
+Blackfeet band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however,
+had been dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties
+of white men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this
+part of the country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and
+bending their course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them.
+Their route lay through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows.
+In the Wind River valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were
+encountered by a powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put
+to rout. Forty of them were killed, many of their women and children
+captured, and the scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they
+were completely chased out of the Crow country.
+
+On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out
+on his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three
+to a mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal
+and one on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and
+eighty to two hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers’ style of
+loading pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting
+the packs, which were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was
+necessary to keep a rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days’
+experience, however, brought them into proper training.
+
+Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the
+right by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little
+lakes and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured
+forth the tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing
+down gullies and ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from
+inaccessible clefts and rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and
+pellucid currents across the valley, to throw themselves into the main
+river. So transparent were these waters that the trout with which they
+abounded could be seen gliding about as if in the air; and their pebbly
+beds were distinctly visible at the depth of many feet. This beautiful
+and diaphanous quality of the Rocky Mountain streams prevails for a long
+time after they have mingled their waters and swollen into important
+rivers.
+
+Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued
+to the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky
+defiles, extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters
+was a Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was
+Buckeye. He had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping
+with the grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in
+the left arm, he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded
+bear, and attack him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was
+willing to brave the animal when in full force and fury. He had twice
+an opportunity of proving his prowess, in the course of this mountain
+journey, and was each time successful. His mode was to seat himself
+upon the ground, with his rifle cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus
+prepared, he would await the approach of the bear with perfect coolness,
+nor pull trigger until he was close at hand. In each instance, he laid
+the monster dead upon the spot.
+
+A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought
+Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson’s Hole, where poor
+More and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The
+feelings of the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these
+unfortunate young men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to
+be decently interred.
+
+On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which
+commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre’s Hole; whence he
+could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and
+forests of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant
+mountains, of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a
+sleeping ocean below.
+
+After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley,
+and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the
+remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and
+strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late
+populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers’ camps and
+Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage
+of trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all
+dispersed to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had
+relapsed into its pristine solitude and silence.
+
+That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he
+resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards
+of two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses
+suffering excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the
+19th of September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River.
+
+The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The
+night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left
+the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his
+custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become
+bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the
+following morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered
+the earth to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately
+encamped, and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search
+Buckeye was discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the
+rear, waiting the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they
+had passed, the snow having covered their trail.
+
+On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but
+had not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country
+in the advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and
+crying Indians! Indians!
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared
+for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great
+numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly,
+making signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or
+Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation
+was returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him.
+They halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as
+important with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This
+done, they arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the
+van, the braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and
+topped off with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting
+and singing, firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields.
+The two parties encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a
+hunting expedition, but had been almost famished on their march. They
+had no provisions left but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white
+men equally in want, they generously offered to share even this meager
+pittance, and frequently repeated the offer, with an earnestness that
+left no doubt of their sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of
+Captain Bonneville, and produced the most cordial good will on the part
+of his men. For two days that the parties remained in company, the most
+amicable intercourse prevailed, and they parted the best of friends.
+Captain Bonneville detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader,
+to accompany the Nez Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade
+with them for meat for the winter’s supply. After this, he proceeded
+down the river, about five miles below the forks, when he came to a halt
+on the 26th of September, to establish his winter quarters.
+
+
+
+
+9.
+
+     Horses turned loose--Preparations for winter quarters--
+     Hungry times--Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies--Captain Bonneville’s
+     conversations with them--Their love of gambling
+
+IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a
+course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under
+which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling
+upon the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings.
+Indeed, so exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle
+were no longer capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary
+fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure
+and comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and
+huts were built for the reception of the merchandise.
+
+This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty
+men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the
+rest were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different
+directions, to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow
+should become too deep.
+
+Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in
+this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo
+range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the
+neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the
+garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they
+brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now
+and then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an
+antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with
+roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates
+of the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having
+wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the
+8th of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez
+Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their
+situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set
+they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor
+anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of
+certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any
+weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor
+fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their
+hard fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical
+stoicism, they at least made them acquainted with the edible properties
+of roots and wild rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their
+own store. The necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that
+Captain Bonneville determined to dispatch a party to the Horse
+Prairie, a plain to the north of his cantonment, to procure a supply of
+provisions. When the men were about to depart, he proposed to the Nez
+Perces that they, or some of them, should join the hunting-party. To
+his surprise, they promptly declined. He inquired the reason for their
+refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as starving a situation as his
+own people. They replied that it was a sacred day with them, and the
+Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it to hunting. They
+offered, however, to accompany the party if it would delay its departure
+until the following day; but this the pinching demands of hunger would
+not permit, and the detachment proceeded.
+
+A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that
+they were about to hunt. “What!” exclaimed he, “without guns or arrows;
+and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?” They smiled
+among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they
+performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a
+few short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the
+blessings of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed,
+leaving the whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by
+this lesson of faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being.
+“Accustomed,” adds Captain Bonneville, “as I had heretofore been, to
+find the wretched Indian revelling in blood, and stained by every vice
+which can degrade human nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which
+I had witnessed. Wonder at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where
+it was least to have been sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame
+and confusion, at receiving such pure and wholesome instructions from
+creatures so far below us in the arts and comforts of life.” The simple
+prayers of the poor Indians were not unheard. In the course of four or
+five days they returned, laden with meat. Captain Bonneville was curious
+to know how they had attained such success with such scanty means. They
+gave him to understand that they had chased the buffalo at full speed,
+until they tired them down, when they easily dispatched them with the
+spear, and made use of the same weapon to flay the carcasses. To carry
+through their lessons to their Christian friends, the poor savages were
+as charitable as they had been pious, and generously shared with them
+the spoils of their hunting, giving them food enough to last for several
+days.
+
+A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain
+Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional
+feeling. “Simply to call these people religious,” says he, “would convey
+but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades
+their whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of
+purpose, and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most
+uniform and remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of
+saints than a horde of savages.”
+
+In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from
+the doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had
+imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries
+and traders who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of
+the fasts and festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its
+ceremonials. These have become blended with their own wild rites, and
+present a strange medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men,
+women, and children array themselves in their best style, and assemble
+round a pole erected at the head of the camp. Here they go through a
+wild fantastic ceremonial; strongly resembling the religious dance of
+the Shaking Quakers; but from its enthusiasm, much more striking and
+impressive. During the intervals of the ceremony, the principal chiefs,
+who officiate as priests, instruct them in their duties, and exhort them
+to virtue and good deeds.
+
+“There is something antique and patriarchal,” observes Captain
+Bonneville, “in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there
+is in many of their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued
+with religion.”
+
+The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by
+this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness.
+He exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and
+well-disposed people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle
+and humanizing precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them
+acquainted with the leading points of its history; and it speaks highly
+for the purity and benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed
+happiness from the task.
+
+“Many a time,” says he, “was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled
+with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other,
+until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the
+wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No
+other subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the
+attention; and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory,
+or are so pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours
+of intercourse with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the
+desert.”
+
+The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people,
+appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an
+eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble
+before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain
+absorbed in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn
+of the following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer.
+Bets increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater,
+until in the course of a single night’s gambling, the richest chief may
+become the poorest varlet in the camp.
+
+
+
+
+10.
+
+     Black feet in the Horse Prairie--Search after the hunters--
+     Difficulties and dangers--A card party in the wilderness--
+     The card party interrupted--“Old Sledge” a losing game--
+     Visitors to the camp--Iroquois hunters--Hanging-eared
+     Indians
+
+ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived
+at Captain Bonneville’s encampment. They were on their way homeward,
+but had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the
+mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse
+Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke
+of a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a
+war party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they
+generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these
+horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings.
+
+This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville
+for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the
+Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and
+declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen
+from that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain
+Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that
+direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found;
+but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh
+famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful
+of food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the
+mountain. After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but
+merely wounded him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill
+and dale, with the eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more
+lucky shot brought him to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged
+his knife into his throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking
+his blood: A fire was instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two
+hunters cooked, and ate again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they
+sank to sleep before their hunting fire. On the following morning they
+rose early, made another hearty meal, then loading themselves with
+buffalo meat, set out on their return to the camp, to report the
+fruitlessness of their mission.
+
+At length, after six weeks’ absence, the hunters made their appearance,
+and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been
+felt on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie,
+but, while busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken
+Flatheads, who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at
+hand. The hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground,
+and accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr.
+Cerre, and the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the
+hunting party of the Nez Perces.
+
+After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the
+Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of
+Mr. Cerre’s men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived
+without accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not
+far from his quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord,
+which they supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days
+afterward Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at
+the cantonment.
+
+Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty
+hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise
+his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his
+encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary
+of their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on
+these prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves
+with a social game of cards called “old sledge,” which is as popular
+among these trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite
+circles of the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly
+roused by a discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on
+their feet, and snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their
+horses and mules already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon
+the camp unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old
+sledge. The Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored
+to urge them off under a galling fire that did some execution. The
+mules, however, confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new
+riders kicked up their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of
+their horsemanship. This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored
+to protect their unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the
+whites; but, after a scene of “confusion worse confounded,” horses and
+mules were abandoned, and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes.
+Here they quickly scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in
+which they prostrated themselves, and while thus screened from the shots
+of the white men, were enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows
+and fusees, as to repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat.
+This adventure threw a temporary stigma upon the game of “old sledge.”
+
+In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow
+from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment.
+They were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves
+useful in a variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate
+woodsmen. They were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that
+came from Canada into these mountain regions many years previously,
+in the employ of the Hudson’s Bay Company. They were led by a brave
+chieftain, named Pierre, who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and
+gave his name to the fated valley of Pierre’s Hole. This branch of the
+Iroquois tribe has ever since remained among these mountains, at mortal
+enmity with the Blackfeet, and have lost many of their prime hunters in
+their feuds with that ferocious race. Some of them fell in with
+General Ashley, in the course of one of his gallant excursions into the
+wilderness, and have continued ever since in the employ of the company.
+
+Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville
+was a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These
+Indians have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez
+Perces. They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and
+possess great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn,
+they hunt the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry’s
+Fork of the Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River.
+Their winter quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon
+roots and dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson’s Bay Company
+have established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the
+Flatheads bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and
+trinkets.
+
+This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings
+of natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like
+that of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep
+reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of
+their fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific
+doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased
+with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore,
+from all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their
+policy, they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare;
+especially with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting
+expeditions, they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles.
+Their conduct as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can
+never be driven to abandon their hunting grounds.
+
+Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power
+and efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some
+of their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth ‘scapes, like
+the old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre’s Hole, are believed
+to wear a charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings
+marvelous anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed
+by their fellow savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white
+hunters.
+
+
+
+
+11.
+
+     Rival trapping parties--Manoeuvring--A desperate game--
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet--Deserted camp fire--A dark
+     defile--An Indian ambush--A fierce melee--Fatal
+     consequences--Fitzpatrick and Bridger--Trappers precautions
+     --Meeting with the Blackfeet--More fighting--Anecdote of a
+     young--Mexican and an Indian girl.
+
+WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez
+Perces, on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those
+doughty rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who
+started off for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest.
+
+Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already
+shown, having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped
+to have the first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and
+Dripps, however, the two resident partners of the opposite company, by
+extraordinary exertions were enabled soon to put themselves upon their
+traces, and pressed forward with such speed as to overtake them just
+as they had reached the heart of the beaver country. In fact, being
+ignorant of the best trapping grounds, it was their object to follow on,
+and profit by the superior knowledge of the other party.
+
+Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being
+dogged by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer
+to divide the country with them. They tried in every way to blind and
+baffle them; to steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent;
+but all in vain. Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for
+his ignorance of the country; was always wary, always on the alert;
+discovered every movement of his rivals, however secret and was not to
+be eluded or misled.
+
+Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the
+others persisted in following them, they determined to give them an
+unprofitable chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than
+share the products with their rivals. They accordingly took up their
+line of march down the course of the Missouri, keeping the main
+Blackfoot trail, and tramping doggedly forward, without stopping to set
+a single trap. The others beat the hoof after them for some time, but
+by degrees began to perceive that they were on a wild-goose chase, and
+getting into a country perfectly barren to the trapper. They now came
+to a halt, and be-thought themselves how to make up for lost time, and
+improve the remainder of the season. It was thought best to divide their
+forces and try different trapping grounds. While Dripps went in one
+direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty men, proceeded in another.
+The latter, in his headlong march had got into the very heart of the
+Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been unconscious of his danger. As
+his scouts were out one day, they came upon the traces of a recent band
+of savages. There were the deserted fires still smoking, surrounded
+by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It was evident a party
+of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting camp, and had
+retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts hastened back to
+the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He made light of the
+alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to reconnoitre for
+himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they had represented
+it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly dismembered; there
+were the smouldering fires, still sending up their wreaths of smoke;
+everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and gave reason to
+believe that the savages were still lurking in the neighborhood. With
+heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their trail, to trace them
+to their place of concealment: It led him over prairies, and through
+skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and dangerous ravine.
+Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by his little
+band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between steep banks
+overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only broken by the
+tramp of their own horses.
+
+Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the
+sharp report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their
+concealments, yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten
+the horses. Vanderburgh’s horse fell, mortally wounded by the first
+discharge. In his fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called
+in vain upon his men to assist in extricating him. One was shot down
+scalped a few paces distant; most of the others were severely wounded,
+and sought their safety in flight. The savages approached to dispatch
+the unfortunate leader, as he lay struggling beneath his horse.. He
+had still his rifle in his hand and his pistols in his belt. The first
+savage that advanced received the contents of the rifle in his breast,
+and fell dead upon the spot; but before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol,
+a blow from a tomahawk laid him prostrate, and he was dispatched by
+repeated wounds.
+
+Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and
+worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing
+and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular
+among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness.
+
+Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp,
+and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The
+party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and
+made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains
+of their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the
+encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a
+reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could
+be found.
+
+In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company,
+fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to
+mislead them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region
+infested with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch
+for them; but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be
+surprised at night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the
+evening advanced, the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a
+guard was stationed round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of
+the leaders would mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about
+half a mile; then look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether
+there had been any lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would
+reconnoitre every ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush.
+This done, he would gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the
+same scrutiny. Finding all things safe, the horses would be turned loose
+to graze, but always under the eye of a guard.
+
+A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any
+defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always
+kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the
+flanks.
+
+At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open
+field, but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary
+distance, but made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way,
+but likewise kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing
+the pipe of peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and
+they formed a group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was
+circulated from hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An
+instance of natural affection took place at this pacific meeting.
+Among the free trappers in the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited
+young Mexican named Loretto, who, in the course of his wanderings, had
+ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl from a band of Crows by whom she had
+been captured. He made her his wife, after the Indian style, and she had
+followed his fortunes ever since, with the most devoted affection.
+
+Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she
+recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward
+and threw herself upon her brother’s neck, who clasped his long-lost
+sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible
+with the reputed stoicism of the savage.
+
+While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of
+trappers and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle
+resting across the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet
+stepped forward to meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust
+Bridger cocked his rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in
+friendship. The quick ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in
+a twinkling he grasped the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the
+contents were discharged into the earth at his feet. His next movement
+was to wrest the weapon from the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to
+the earth. He might have found this no easy task had not the unfortunate
+leader received two arrows in his back during the struggle.
+
+The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his
+band. A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks,
+the rocks and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular
+firing was kept up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl
+had been hurried off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She
+would have returned, through the dangers of the fight, to her husband
+and her child, but was prevented by her brother. The young Mexican
+saw her struggles and her agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a
+generous impulse he caught up the child in his arms, rushed forward,
+regardless of Indian shaft or rifle, and placed it in safety upon her
+bosom. Even the savage heart of the Blackfoot chief was reached by this
+noble deed. He pronounced Loretto a madman for his temerity, but bade
+him depart in peace. The young Mexican hesitated; he urged to have his
+wife restored to him, but her brother interfered, and the countenance of
+the chief grew dark. The girl, he said, belonged to his tribe-she must
+remain with her people. Loretto would still have lingered, but his wife
+implored him to depart, lest his life should be endangered. It was with
+the greatest reluctance that he returned to his companions.
+
+The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse
+parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We
+cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre’s Hole the
+affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment
+when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither
+instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different
+persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in
+their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual
+among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves
+sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial,
+by any hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of
+faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white
+men have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have,
+in consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted.
+
+A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian
+bride. A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young
+Mexican settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and
+obtained his discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin
+his wife and child among her people; and we understand that, at the time
+we are writing these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of
+late by the American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts
+as an interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him.
+
+
+
+
+12.
+
+     A winter camp in the wilderness--Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians--Scarcity of game--New arrangements in
+     the camp--Detachments sent to a distance--Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped--Sickness among the Indians--
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces--The Captain’s effort
+     as a pacificator--A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war--
+     Robberies, by the Black feet--Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces--A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains--More
+     robberies--The Captain preaches up a crusade--The effect
+     upon his hearers.
+
+FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville
+remained in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full
+enjoyment of his wishes; leading a hunter’s life in the heart of the
+wilderness, with all its wild populace around him. Beside his own
+people, motley in character and costume--creole, Kentuckian, Indian,
+half-breed, hired trapper, and free trapper--he was surrounded by
+encampments of Nez Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses
+covering the hills and plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling
+scene. The hunting parties of white men and red men, continually
+sallying forth and returning; the groups at the various encampments,
+some cooking, some working, some amusing themselves at different games;
+the neighing of horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of
+the axe, the sharp report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the
+frequent burst of laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused
+from perfect silence and loneliness by this transient hunters’ sojourn,
+realized, he says, the idea of a “populous solitude.”
+
+The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its
+influence on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together.
+The most perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says,
+were friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous
+degree in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were
+somewhat importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in
+the way, examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching
+every movement of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great
+good-humor by the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed,
+throughout all his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor
+Indians, and his conduct toward them is above all praise.
+
+The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves
+upon the number of their horses, of which they possess more in
+proportion than any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo
+range. Many of the Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain
+Bonneville possess from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are
+stout, well-built ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the
+severest hardship and fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those
+obtained from the whites while sufficiently young to become acclimated
+and inured to the rough service of the mountains.
+
+By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its
+inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians
+consumed the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to
+any distant pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and
+deadly enemies, would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast.
+Game, too, began to grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out
+of the vicinity, and though the Indians made a wide circuit through
+the mountains in the hope of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment,
+their expedition was unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party
+could not subsist themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the
+winter. Captain Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements.
+He detached fifty men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and
+to trap about its waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the
+month of July at Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed
+upon as the general rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year.
+
+Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of
+free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and
+Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass.
+Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments
+and set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained
+behind for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which
+to deposit everything not required for current use. Thus lightened
+of all superfluous encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to
+rejoin his Indian allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of
+the country, at the head of a small stream. Considering themselves
+out of all danger in this sequestered spot from their old enemies, the
+Blackfeet, their encampment manifested the most negligent security.
+Their lodges were scattered in every direction, and their horses covered
+every hill for a great distance round, grazing upon the upland bunch
+grass which grew in great abundance, and though dry, retained its
+nutritious properties instead of losing them like other grasses in the
+autumn.
+
+When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a
+dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care
+is taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and
+objects of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one
+foot at night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain
+until broad daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already
+ranging over the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses
+to some eligible spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young
+Indian repairs occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to
+see that all is well. So accustomed are the horses to this management,
+that they keep together in the pasture where they have been left. As
+the sun sinks behind the hills, they may be seen moving from all points
+toward the camp, where they surrender themselves to be tied up for the
+night. Even in situations of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over
+their camp at night, intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant
+and well-trained dogs.
+
+In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which
+Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions
+with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at
+nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at
+perfect liberty, until the morning.
+
+One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was
+to procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however,
+extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty
+that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use
+of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for
+their equipment.
+
+In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November
+to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from
+thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but
+it generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades
+of new grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December,
+however, the thermometer fell to seven degrees.
+
+The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in
+Green River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by
+a leader of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses,
+to sojourn about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to
+rejoin him at his winter camp on Salmon River.
+
+More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his
+appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain
+Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he
+would have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning
+him; for his route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads
+itself out like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be
+descried at a great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded
+no further than the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were
+lame; but it was evident they had feared to venture, with so small a
+force, into these exposed and dangerous regions.
+
+A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now
+appeared among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an
+illness of three or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician,
+prescribing profuse sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with
+success, if the patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In
+extraordinary cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own
+doctors or conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but
+with little benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in
+graves, after the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the
+direction of the head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this
+malady made such ravages among the natives, not a single white man had
+the slightest symptom of it.
+
+A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and
+Flathead Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable
+and inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them,
+and conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly
+feud between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably
+the sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and
+urged that they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific
+conference, offering to send two of his men to the enemy’s camp with
+pipe, tobacco and flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting.
+
+The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two
+days’ duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long
+talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length
+they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain’s proposition, and
+upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge.
+
+“War,” said the chiefs, “is a bloody business, and full of evil; but
+it keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the
+young men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we
+see a trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we
+know it is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds
+no alarm; the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men
+are sleek and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and
+their little babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a
+lie, and his tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he
+comes to us as a brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees
+us weak, and off our guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such
+peace; let there be war!”
+
+With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since
+the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in
+a state of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted
+vigilance which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He
+represented to them the impossibility that two such considerable clans
+could move about the country without leaving trails by which they might
+be traced. Besides, among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces,
+who had been taken prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors,
+and trained up and imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had
+lost all sympathies with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead
+the enemy to their secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep
+upon the alert, and never to remit their vigilance while within the
+range of so crafty and cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon
+his easy and simple-minded hearers. A careless indifference reigned
+throughout their encampments, and their horses were permitted to range
+the hills at night in perfect freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own
+horses brought in at night, and properly picketed and guarded. The
+evil he apprehended soon took place. In a single night a swoop was made
+through the neighboring pastures by the Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the
+finest horses carried off. A whip and a rope were left in a conspicuous
+situation by the robbers, as a taunt to the simpletons they had
+unhorsed.
+
+Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire
+through the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses
+remained safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an
+outbreak of warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit
+of the marauders; but no such thing--they contented themselves with
+searching diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as
+had escaped the hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to
+their loss with the most exemplary quiescence.
+
+Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit
+to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit
+the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance.
+To these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of
+begging and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback.
+
+Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was
+necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten
+ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian
+friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their
+cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united
+force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were
+infested by bands of Blackfeet.
+
+They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented
+as a perfect hunter’s elysium. It was on the right branch, or head
+stream of the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there
+was no danger from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter.
+Here, they said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be
+seen trooping upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it,
+also, herds of buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger.
+Thither they proposed to move their camp.
+
+The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the
+Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land.
+Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved
+forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the
+late malady.
+
+Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered
+a deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much
+valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three
+days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of
+his free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible,
+before the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened
+away by the various Indian hunting parties.
+
+While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the
+Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be
+upon their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent
+loss, were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some
+secluded spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any
+guard upon them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one
+were carried off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the
+first, and no effort was made either to recover the horses, or to take
+vengeance on the thieves.
+
+The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their
+remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and
+fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that
+this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and
+persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should,
+therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night
+over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from
+their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was
+over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but
+the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be
+roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers.
+
+The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band
+that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such
+pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being
+now picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated
+in the early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here
+they went about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at
+home, quietly cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges
+of their sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than
+the rest, approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were
+gambling with the most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time,
+muffled up in his robe, peering over the shoulders of the players,
+watching the changes of their countenances and the fluctuations of
+the game. So completely engrossed were they, that the presence of this
+muffled eaves-dropper was unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he
+retired undiscovered.
+
+Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off,
+the Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently
+round the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty,
+took their route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged
+from the camp they were silently taken possession of, until, having
+secured about thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered
+off. The clatter of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They
+gave the alarm, which soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still
+all was quiescent; no marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds
+and dashing off in pursuit, no talk of retribution for their repeated
+outrages. The patience of Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He
+had played the part of a pacificator without success; he now altered his
+tone, and resolved, if possible, to rouse their war spirit.
+
+Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven
+policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures
+that would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if
+not inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party
+should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow
+them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and
+not to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he
+recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to
+the extent of the losses sustained. “Unless you rouse yourselves from
+your apathy,” said he, “and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will
+cease to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws
+and children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their
+warriors reserve themselves for nobler antagonists.”
+
+This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the
+hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was
+bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given
+them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true,
+but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez
+Perces, without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose
+men, who were not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an
+increased watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind.
+He disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other
+chiefs concurred in his opinion.
+
+Captain Bonneville again took up the point. “It is true,” said he, “the
+Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has
+also given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something
+speedily to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say
+farewell. As yet I have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions
+which you have slighted; but my property is too unsafe here; my turn
+will come next; I and my people will share the contempt you are bringing
+upon yourselves, and will be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings,
+who may at any time be plundered with impunity.”
+
+The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of
+the Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in
+pursuit of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account
+of the Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came
+lagging back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down
+horses, which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient
+speed. This effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the
+wounded pride of the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual
+state of passive indifference.
+
+
+
+
+13.
+
+     Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.
+
+IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the
+spirit of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp
+to whom they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado,
+named Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of
+the same tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted
+into the tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race,
+and loathed the peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The
+hunting of the deer, the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of
+their ambition, was too tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature.
+His heart burned for the foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper,
+and all the haps and hazards of roving and predatory warfare.
+
+The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly
+prowls and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and
+a flutter, like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping
+and screaming in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain
+Bonneville to rouse the war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them
+to retaliation, was ardently seconded by Kosato. For several days he
+was incessantly devising schemes of vengeance, and endeavoring to set
+on foot an expedition that should carry dismay and desolation into the
+Blackfeet town. All his art was exerted to touch upon those springs
+of human action with which he was most familiar. He drew the listening
+savages round him by his nervous eloquence; taunted them with recitals
+of past wrongs and insults; drew glowing pictures of triumphs and
+trophies within their reach; recounted tales of daring and romantic
+enterprise, of secret marchings, covert lurkings, midnight surprisals,
+sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings; together with the triumphant
+return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the victors. These wild tales
+were intermingled with the beating of the drum, the yell, the war-whoop
+and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor. All, however, were
+lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a Nez Perce was to be
+roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In the bitterness
+of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap which had
+severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to take
+refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire.
+
+The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain
+Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted
+his tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility.
+Kosato told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep,
+strong passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics.
+
+“You see my wife,” said he, “she is good; she is beautiful--I love her.
+Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of
+my chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked
+together; we laughed together; we were always seeking each other’s
+society; but we were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous,
+and commanded her to speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward
+her; his jealousy grew more furious. He beat her without cause and
+without mercy; and threatened to kill her outright if she even looked at
+me. Do you want traces of his fury? Look at that scar! His rage against
+me was no less persecuting. War parties of the Crows were hovering
+round us; our young men had seen their trail. All hearts were roused for
+action; my horses were before my lodge. Suddenly the chief came, took
+them to his own pickets, and called them his own. What could I do? he
+was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was burning. I joined no
+longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast. What had I to do
+there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself, and thought of
+nothing but these wrongs and outrages.
+
+“I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where
+the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing
+among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a
+time over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I
+loved had endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and
+my teeth were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief
+walking among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk’s; my
+blood boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an
+instant I was on my feet; my hand was on my knife--I flew rather than
+ran--before he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him
+dead at my feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over
+the place; then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and
+urged her to fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded
+her of the wrongs I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had
+endured from the deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I
+again urged her to fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My
+heart was heavy, but my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. ‘’Tis well,’
+said I; ‘Kosato will go alone to the desert. None will be with him but
+the wild beasts of the desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his
+trail. They may come upon him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but
+you will be safe. Kosato will go alone.’
+
+“I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. ‘No,’
+she cried, ‘Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go--he
+shall never part from me.’
+
+“We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and
+stealing quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we
+encountered. Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They
+received us with welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They
+are good and kind; they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of
+women.”
+
+Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville.
+It is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements
+from tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and
+heroines of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and
+lasting feuds.
+
+
+
+
+14.
+
+     The party enters the mountain gorge--A wild fastness among
+     hills--Mountain mutton--Peace and plenty--The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding--A free trapper’s wife--Her gala
+     equipments--Christmas in the wilderness.
+
+ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians
+raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork
+of Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so
+temptingly described by the Indians.
+
+Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand
+or coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive
+limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter
+cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow
+breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding
+heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills
+afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses.
+
+As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of
+the mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so
+narrow, rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid
+retreat, and to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore,
+refrained from venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better
+chance, when they should once more emerge into the open country.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the
+advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large
+flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be
+seen bounding among the precipices. These simple animals were easily
+circumvented and destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill
+as many as they please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the
+flesh of those which were young and fat was extolled as superior to the
+finest mutton.
+
+Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm.
+Past ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the
+story, the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away,
+and plenty and security reigned throughout the camp.
+
+Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony,
+in civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness.
+Filled with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers
+began to repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the
+force of that great law of nature, “it is not meet for man to live
+alone.”
+
+After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the
+Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his
+bosom.
+
+“I want,” said he, “a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a
+young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and
+finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share
+my lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of
+my lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness.”
+ Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and
+procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the
+search. At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and
+informed him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of
+the afternoon. He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached,
+leading the bride, a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian
+finery. Her father, mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by
+the score, all followed on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and
+important relative.
+
+The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper
+solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the
+great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs,
+then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the
+bride, from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth
+of the whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most
+profound and becoming silence.
+
+After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn
+ceremonial, the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable
+length the duties of a wife which, among Indians, are little less
+onerous than those of the pack-horse; this done, he turned to her
+friends and congratulated them upon the great alliance she had made.
+They showed a due sense of their good fortune, especially when the
+nuptial presents came to be distributed among the chiefs and relatives,
+amounting to about one hundred and eighty dollars. The company soon
+retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed that he had no green
+girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once assumed the style and
+dignity of a trapper’s wife: taking possession of the lodge as her
+undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her own taste and
+habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy terms with the
+trapper as if they had been man and wife for years.
+
+We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as
+furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion
+picture, his description of a free trapper’s wife, that the reader
+may have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in
+question had invoked to solace him in the wilderness.
+
+“The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse;
+but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony
+occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of
+ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still
+more fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses.
+
+“No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her
+notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the
+purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the
+utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to
+be equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw?
+Perish the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse
+for her own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as
+is sometimes assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his
+squaw and her pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the
+most beautiful animal she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his
+decoration: headstall, breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly
+embroidered with beads, and hung with thimbles, hawks’ bells, and
+bunches of ribbons. From each side of the saddle hangs an esquimoot,
+a sort of pocket, in which she bestows the residue of her trinkets and
+nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the decoration of her horse or
+herself. Over this she folds, with great care, a drapery of scarlet and
+bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the caparison of her steed
+complete.
+
+“As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair,
+esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited,
+and made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her
+riding hat is stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned
+somewhat after that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes
+gray cloth, but always of the finest texture that can be procured.
+Her leggings and moccasins are of the most beautiful and expensive
+workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the foot and ankle, which with the
+Indian woman are generally well formed and delicate. Then as to jewelry:
+in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings, necklaces, and other female
+glories, nothing within reach of the trapper’s means is omitted that can
+tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the lady’s high estate. To
+finish the whole, she selects from among her blankets of various dyes
+one of some glowing color, and throwing it over her shoulders with a
+native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay, prancing steed, and
+is ready to follow her mountaineer ‘to the last gasp with love and
+loyalty.’”
+
+Such is the general picture of the free trapper’s wife, given by Captain
+Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question
+does not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her
+connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp
+and circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that
+wherever there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest
+rivalry exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands’
+purses. Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by
+endeavors to eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies
+and heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of
+nature are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and
+fashion in the luxurious abodes of civilized life.
+
+The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom
+lights up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard
+upon the wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends,
+Captain Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed
+to suffer the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good
+cheer, and were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to “light
+up the yule clog,” and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the
+wilderness.
+
+On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and
+rejoicings. In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the
+lodge of the Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted
+him with a feude joie.
+
+Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in
+which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited
+the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was
+gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief!
+There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet
+was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed
+for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up
+abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter
+roots which the Indians use as condiments.
+
+After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in
+Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity.
+After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and
+Indians closed the Christmas festivities.
+
+
+
+
+15.
+
+     A hunt after hunters--Hungry times--A voracious repast--
+     Wintry weather--Godin’s River--Splendid winter scene on the
+     great--Lava Plain of Snake River--Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow--Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman--Encampment on Snake River--Banneck Indians--The
+     horse chief--His charmed life.
+
+THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time,
+caused great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding
+there was no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage
+of scouting parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set
+out himself on the search, and to keep on until he should ascertain
+something of the object of his solicitude.
+
+Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by
+thirteen stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for
+dangerous enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the
+head of the mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As
+they confidently expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other
+predatory horde, they moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant
+watch in their encampments.
+
+In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River,
+and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day’s defile. It was
+severe and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter
+blasts of wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game
+was scarce, so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the
+want of pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor
+of the horses.
+
+The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two
+of the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping
+back in great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of
+savages, evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and
+nothing had saved them from being entrapped but the speed of their
+horses.
+
+These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored
+to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment,
+and its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven
+in and picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of
+trees and the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier
+was maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away
+without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to
+discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night;
+not a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel
+with which the plain was covered.
+
+Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of
+surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the
+foot of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the
+next day that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the
+plain, among rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half
+without a mouthful of food, they took especial care that these animals
+should not escape them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced
+cautiously with their rifles into the rough ground, four of the best
+mounted horsemen took their stations in the plain, to run the bulls down
+should they only be maimed.
+
+The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The
+half-famished horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen
+ground, but succeeded in driving them on the ice, where they slipped
+and fell, and were easily dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with
+beef for present and future supply, and then returned and encamped
+at the last nights’s fire. Here they passed the remainder of the day,
+cooking and eating with a voracity proportioned to previous starvation,
+forgetting in the hearty revel of the moment the certain dangers with
+which they were environed.
+
+The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about
+their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships
+they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard,
+taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the
+lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the
+stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye
+could reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently
+deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the
+icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through
+want of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible
+famine like that they had already experienced.
+
+With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride;
+and, having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back
+until it was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated
+the difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have
+flinched from the undertaking.
+
+Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the
+course of a stream called John Day’s Creek. The cold was so intense that
+they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should
+freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough
+even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high
+mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the
+cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches
+in depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat
+their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day’s
+journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by
+the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps
+of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small
+branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood.
+
+In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down
+John Day’s Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped
+upon the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat
+down and clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses.
+
+Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter
+in the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet.
+Many of the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after
+scenes of violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It
+was an act of filial vengeance on the part of Godin’s son Antoine that,
+as the reader may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre’s
+Hole.
+
+From Godin’s River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon
+the plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated
+hills that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of
+Snake River, one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains.
+Could they have experienced a respite from their sufferings and
+anxieties, the immense landscape spread out before them was calculated
+to inspire admiration. Winter has its beauties and glories as well as
+summer; and Captain Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them.
+
+Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the
+lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever
+the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth
+from among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock
+and frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall
+pines seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with
+minute icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy
+trees conjured up by the caliph’s story-teller to adorn his vale of
+diamonds.
+
+The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were
+in no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they
+stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight
+in more genial situations.
+
+Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so
+that it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here
+the horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for
+once they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that,
+in the morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered
+round and mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their
+half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce
+blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat
+the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed
+next to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts,
+when, fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party.
+Into this they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty.
+Shortly afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and
+was instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and
+crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after
+which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men
+reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing
+fire gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation.
+
+Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more
+facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the
+mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the
+day they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before
+them on the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better
+mounted on a fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring
+them with evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers,
+their leggings, blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped
+off with feathers, even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed
+complexions, gave them the look of Indians rather than white men, and
+made him mistake them for a war party of some hostile tribe.
+
+After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a
+parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing
+prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a
+breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for
+defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to
+be approached within speaking distance.
+
+He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at
+no great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that
+he was conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his
+reserve and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence
+that there were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood.
+This was cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one
+of them the long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore,
+with renovated spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there
+fixed his encampment.
+
+Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made
+about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men.
+An encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river,
+in which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu’s
+men, from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there
+in the course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and
+self-gratulation to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his
+dreary and doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time
+in this encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give
+needful repose to men and horses.
+
+It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering
+grounds in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound
+its devious way between low banks through the great plain of the Three
+Butes; and was bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with
+islands which, like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves
+of cotton-wood, thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and
+abundance of green rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent
+that no single band of Indians could drive the buffalo out of them;
+nor was the snow of sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience.
+Indeed, during the sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood,
+which was in the heart of winter, he found the weather, with the
+exception of a few cold and stormy days, generally mild and pleasant,
+freezing a little at night but invariably thawing with the morning’s
+sun-resembling the spring weather in the middle parts of the United
+States.
+
+The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky
+Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west
+of the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and
+Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white
+robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into
+the plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in
+quest of food; where they are easily slain in great numbers.
+
+Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to
+which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty
+band of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it
+unwise for those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an
+overpowering force.
+
+About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering
+about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors
+and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles
+where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising
+in warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet
+towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories
+and house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the
+rest with bows and arrows.
+
+As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River
+and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax
+fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh
+of deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and
+are met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving
+in exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon
+the tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the
+rise of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their
+horses, although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent
+stock from being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but
+two years old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses,
+also, than most of these migratory tribes.
+
+At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these
+Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The
+Horse. This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be
+invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been
+in repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had
+shown great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of
+the great men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of
+trappers passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had
+been sworn by the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself
+the friend of white men and, having great influence and authority among
+his people, he compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to
+conduct themselves amicably whenever they came in contact with the
+traders.
+
+This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the
+Blackfeet upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His
+fall in nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for
+they declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of
+horn which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no
+doubt, of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with
+sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory
+propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become
+troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of
+traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any
+small party that might fall within their reach.
+
+
+
+
+16.
+
+     Misadventures of Matthieu and his party--Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River--Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet--Heroism of a Nez Perce woman--Enrolled among the
+     braves.
+
+ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived
+in camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain
+Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward,
+keeping to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky
+chain. Here he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses,
+and soon discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the
+Shoshonie bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much
+frequented by trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to
+rejoin Captain Bonneville.
+
+He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of
+an Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped
+during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in
+snow and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with
+nine horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear
+River, where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the
+camp.
+
+They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was
+discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced
+a lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long
+as their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained
+the wary savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly
+encamped, in a situation where they might be approached with secrecy,
+the enemy crept stealthily along under cover of the river bank,
+preparing to burst suddenly upon their prey.
+
+They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they
+were discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently
+gave the alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and
+prepared to retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named
+Jennings, doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted
+his horse wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to
+mount, but in vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of
+firearms by the savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his
+nerves that he was unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing
+his peril and confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect
+him. A shot from a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he
+called upon the others not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross,
+after fighting desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining
+two vaulted into their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight,
+being pursued for nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu’s
+camp, where their story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the
+hunters could not be prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest
+of provisions. They remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp;
+now and then killing an old or disabled horse for food, while the
+elk and the mountain sheep roamed unmolested among the surrounding
+mountains.
+
+The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain
+Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious
+encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to
+traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state
+of their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night,
+the position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night
+watches. The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given
+to hair-brained assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe
+well prepared and on the alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a
+protection against him as courage.
+
+The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet;
+until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the
+Bannecks, a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having
+belonged to one of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied
+having taken these spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the
+outrage had been perpetrated by a Blackfoot band.
+
+Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the
+arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered
+strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez
+Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might
+take thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly,
+leaving sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February
+with sixteen others on his journey to the caches.
+
+Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he
+encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he
+was again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River
+plain, where it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently
+incrusted to bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the
+crust, and plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by
+the ice that it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards,
+and put a different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies
+were swept by a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night,
+they had to task their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from
+freezing. In the first place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling
+it up in ramparts to windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath
+these they spread buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves
+in full dress, with caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves
+with numerous blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often
+severely pinched with the cold.
+
+On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This
+stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the
+Malade River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about
+twenty yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives
+its name, and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about
+forty miles, it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks.
+
+On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to
+come upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where
+he remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and
+dry a supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was
+moderate and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height.
+There was abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful
+in clayey and gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its
+name from a partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses
+in the winter, but they reject it the moment the young grass affords
+sufficient pasturage.
+
+On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed
+their march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they
+had to make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the
+wind.
+
+On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part
+of the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were
+sent out to reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a
+hunting party of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with
+meat. Captain Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them
+to proceed with his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he
+proposed also to invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere
+in this neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that
+friendly tribe who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had
+likewise been out to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted
+and harassed by their old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had
+contrived to carry off many of their horses.
+
+In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges
+separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their
+horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot
+banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and
+determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping
+ground of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which
+they hid themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some
+straggler who might guide them to the present “whereabout” of their
+intended victims. As fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot
+renegade, was the first to pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought
+bride. He was on his way from the main body of hunters to the little
+band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet knew and marked him as he passed; he
+was within bowshot of their ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for
+his blood, they forbore to launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment
+that he might lead them to their prey. Secretly following his trail,
+they discovered the lodges of the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed
+them with shouts and yellings. The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men,
+and but nine were armed with fusees. They showed themselves, however,
+as brave and skilful in war as they had been mild and long-suffering in
+peace. Their first care was to dig holes inside of their lodges; thus
+ensconced they fought desperately, laying several of the enemy dead upon
+the ground; while they, though Some of them were wounded, lost not a
+single warrior.
+
+During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her
+warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows,
+and bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the
+safety of the whole party.
+
+In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind
+the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert.
+A Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before
+him as he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the
+tree behind which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless
+interest; whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot.
+The Nez Perce put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he
+Sprang upon his feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the
+back of his antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of
+the horses, several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez
+Perces, ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves
+to the last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party
+was a renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no
+vindictive rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now
+he had got the booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He
+held a long parley, therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off
+his warriors, taking with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward,
+that the bullets of the Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the
+course of the battle, so that they were obliged to make use of stones as
+substitute.
+
+At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather
+than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the
+head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body
+remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the
+horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors
+paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with
+them to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and
+they passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving
+way to passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She
+was not mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck
+him, had stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful
+wife he gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and
+hatred of his tribe.
+
+As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was
+elevated by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other
+honorable distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in
+the war dances of the braves!
+
+
+
+
+17.
+
+     Opening of the caches--Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains--Superstition of an Indian trapper--
+     Godin’s River--Preparations for trapping--An alarm--An
+     interruption--A rival band--Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms--Ingulfed streams--Sublime scenery--A
+     grand buffalo hunt.
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having
+secretly opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to
+equip the free trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with
+the Indians, after which he closed them again. The free trappers, being
+newly rigged out and supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly
+about the camp. To compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give
+a cheerful spur to further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the
+men what, in frontier phrase, is termed “a regular blow-out.” It was a
+day of uncouth gambols and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined
+in the sports and games, and all was mirth and good-fellowship.
+
+It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations
+to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his
+main trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among
+the great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding
+course falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain
+dispatched Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and
+purchase horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a
+small stock of goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the
+spring, for such peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches
+on Salmon River as the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin
+him on the 15th of June following.
+
+This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men
+composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with
+eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River,
+as it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled
+very slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were
+so weak that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage,
+however, was now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass,
+which in some places had attained such height as to wave in the wind.
+The native flocks of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are
+called by the trappers, were continually to be seen upon the hills
+between which they passed, and a good supply of mutton was provided by
+the hunters, as they were advancing toward a region of scarcity.
+
+In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark
+an instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail
+among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to
+the sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the
+habit of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of
+“beaver lodges,” and occasionally set their traps with some success.
+One of them, however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was
+invariably unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad
+luck, he at length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his
+person of which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach.
+He immediately set about a thorough purification. Making a rude
+sweating-house on the banks of the river, he would shut himself up until
+in a reeking perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge
+into the river. A number of these sweatings and plungings having, as
+he supposed, rendered his person perfectly “inodorous,” he resumed his
+trapping with renovated hope.
+
+About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin’s River, where
+they found the swamp full of “musk-rat houses.” Here, therefore, Captain
+Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular
+attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he
+promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat
+they should take. All now set to work for the next day’s sport. The
+utmost animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything
+looked auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats
+in the swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find
+when they should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver
+country all to themselves, where they might trap at their leisure
+without molestation.
+
+In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp,
+shouting, or rather yelling, “A trail! a trail!--lodge poles! lodge
+poles!”
+
+These were words full of meaning to a trapper’s ear. They intimated that
+there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party,
+as they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told
+his story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by
+the dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too,
+had just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the
+hunters had already been on the range.
+
+The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat
+trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the
+trail. Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed
+the unknown party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival
+band of trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that
+too by a party already in the advance, who were driving the game before
+them. Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions
+to which a trapper’s life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an
+uninterrupted hunt was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom
+and disappointment.
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the
+rival party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he
+turned his back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed
+on at “long camps”, which in trapper’s language is equivalent to long
+stages. On the 6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on
+the trail like hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of
+Godin’s defile. Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two
+prime trappers, all well appointed, with excellent horses in capital
+condition led by Milton Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie,
+and in full march for the Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news.
+The Malade River was the only trapping ground within reach; but to have
+to compete there with veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the
+mountains, and admirably mounted, while they were so poorly provided
+with horses and trappers, and had but one man in their party acquainted
+with the country-it was out of the question.
+
+The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep
+among the mountains of Godin’s River and blocked up the usual pass
+to the Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain
+Bonneville’s horses should get once more into good condition in their
+present ample pasturage.
+
+The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but
+to keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any
+possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie
+endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay
+so deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain’s
+horses were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which
+had been worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was
+increasing his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his
+favor.
+
+To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty
+of getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the
+intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that,
+apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases.
+
+Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and
+sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of
+these mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges
+resembling the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore.
+
+In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and
+dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth.
+Captain Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but
+without any satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them
+reverberated against the sides for apparently a very great depth, and,
+by its sound, indicated the same kind of substance with the surface, as
+long as the strokes could be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious
+in avoiding danger, shrinks back in alarm from the least of these
+chasms, pricking up his ears, snorting and pawing, until permitted to
+turn away.
+
+We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it
+is sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one
+of these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin’s
+River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this
+plain; some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding,
+no doubt, subterranean outlets.
+
+Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over
+precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other
+forty feet in height.
+
+The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in
+diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste;
+where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but
+lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville’s
+opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion
+of nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely,
+and dominate this wide sea of lava--one of the most striking features
+of a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple
+grandeur.
+
+We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this
+sublime but almost unknown region.
+
+It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers
+broke up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest
+end of the mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various
+points of the mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava
+plain, stretching away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye
+could reach. On the evening of the 26th they reached the plain west
+of the mountain, watered by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams,
+which comprised the contemplated trapping-ground.
+
+The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain
+Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West,
+presenting the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of
+bright running streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze.
+
+We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which
+lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the
+rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap
+each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped
+about various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set
+forward early in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On
+the way, he treated his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re
+ported numerous herds in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was
+an immediate halt; the fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the
+party advanced to the summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great
+plain below; absolutely swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now
+appointed the place where he would encamp; and toward which the hunters
+were to drive the game. He cautioned the latter to advance slowly,
+reserving the strength and speed of the horses until within a moderate
+distance of the herds. Twenty-two horsemen descended cautiously into
+the plain, conformably to these directions. “It was a beautiful sight,”
+ says the captain, “to see the runners, as they are called, advancing in
+column, at a slow trot, until within two hundred and fifty yards of the
+outskirts of the herd, then dashing on at full speed until lost in the
+immense multitude of buffaloes scouring the plain in every direction.”
+ All was now tumult and wild confusion. In the meantime Captain
+Bonneville and the residue of the party moved on to the appointed
+camping ground; thither the most expert runners succeeded in driving
+numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the camp, and the flesh
+transported thither without difficulty. In a little while the whole camp
+looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses were skilfully
+cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying and jerking
+beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence. On the
+15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain
+Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches.
+
+Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all
+in good health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies
+of various kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae
+distributed throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality
+this merry meeting.
+
+
+
+
+18.
+
+     Meeting with Hodgkiss--Misfortunes of the Nez Perces--
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado--His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie--Invasion of Black feet--Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope--Their generous enterprise--Their fate--Consternation
+     and despair of the village--Solemn obsequies--Attempt at
+     Indian trade--Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly--Arrangements
+     for autumn--Breaking up of an encampment.
+
+HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain
+Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the
+secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly
+into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had
+remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and
+learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently
+befallen that ill-fated race.
+
+After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade
+Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his
+strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now
+resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon
+their old enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and
+robberies they had recently experienced, and assuring them that such
+would continue to be their lot until they proved themselves men by some
+signal retaliation.
+
+The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect;
+and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the
+Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and
+commit all kinds of depredations.
+
+Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he
+came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate
+their force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely
+seconded by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody;
+at length, as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held
+a long parley, or rather a war of words.
+
+“What need,” said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, “have the Nez Perces
+to leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have
+danger enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your
+villages; you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have
+hitherto made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A
+great force is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and
+are determined to rub out the very name of the Nez Perces from the
+mountains. Return, I say, to your towns, and fight there, if you wish to
+live any longer as a people.”
+
+Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native
+tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told
+all that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous
+measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their
+accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and
+as often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at
+present, and, of course, took no precautions.
+
+They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a
+band of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All
+now was consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was
+too small to cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men
+having gone to their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The
+sages met in hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow
+which threatened annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a
+Pierced-nose chief, named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach
+secretly with a small, but chosen band, through a defile which led to
+the encampment of the enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the
+horses. Should this blow be successful, the spirit and strength of the
+invaders would be broken, and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be
+more than a match for them. Should it fail, the village would not be
+worse off than at present, when destruction appeared inevitable.
+
+Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow
+Blue John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the
+solemnity and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his
+medicine, or talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge
+as a supernatural protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise
+would be completely successful, provided no rain should fall before he
+had passed through the defile; but should it rain, his band would be
+utterly cut off.
+
+The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies
+would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope;
+and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and
+horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring
+style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers.
+
+The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as
+they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and
+there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to
+read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John
+remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was
+their hope to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the
+Blackfoot camp; but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they
+met a scouting party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among
+the hills, and were pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard
+shouts and yells behind them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet
+advancing.
+
+The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant
+retreat. “We came to fight!” replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his
+war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed
+him. They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of
+victory, but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful
+carnage, rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid
+heaps of their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with
+numbers and pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued
+to fight until they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty,
+survived. He sprang on the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had
+slain, and escaping at full speed, brought home the baleful tidings to
+his village.
+
+Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower
+of their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The
+air was rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting
+off their ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically
+bewailing the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The
+remaining warriors armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed
+by their gloomy looks and sullen silence that they considered defence
+hopeless. To their surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing
+their advantage; perhaps satisfied with the blood already shed, or
+disheartened by the loss they had themselves sustained. At any rate,
+they disappeared from the hills, and it was soon ascertained that they
+had returned to the Horse Prairie.
+
+The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of
+their warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away
+the bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless
+trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely
+they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off;
+a proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe
+renowned for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the
+Indian victor thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the
+deceased.
+
+Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across
+their pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the
+village. The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing
+cries and wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom
+and sorrow seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost
+undistinguishable bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the
+midst of the assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and
+lamentation that ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian
+stoicism.
+
+Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe
+during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that
+Kosato, the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been
+prevented from going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse
+the vindictive feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to
+revenge the slaughter of their devoted braves.
+
+During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one
+of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at
+this time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians
+encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they
+had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with
+a resident trader of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who was stationed among
+them, and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the
+trader was almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply
+not having yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence
+that the supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped,
+how-ever, by a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the
+market to himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he
+opened his packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares:
+bright cloths, and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and
+everything gay and glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all,
+however, was in vain. The Hudson’s Bay trader was a perfect master of
+his business, thoroughly acquainted with the Indians he had to deal
+with, and held such control over them that none dared to act openly in
+opposition to his wishes; nay, more--he came nigh turning the tables
+upon the captain, and shaking the allegiance of some of his free
+trappers, by distributing liquors among them. The latter, therefore, was
+glad to give up a competition, where the war was likely to be carried
+into his own camp.
+
+In fact, the traders of the Hudson’s Bay Company have advantages over
+all competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge
+monopoly centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and
+long-established power and influence; but also those of its ancient
+rival, but now integral part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus
+its races of traders, trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought
+up in its service, and inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge
+and aptitude in everything connected with Indian life, and Indian
+traffic. In the process of years, this company has been enabled to
+spread its ramifications in every direction; its system of intercourse
+is founded upon a long and intimate knowledge of the character and
+necessities of the various tribes; and of all the fastnesses, defiles,
+and favorable hunting grounds of the country. Their capital, also, and
+the manner in which their supplies are distributed at various posts,
+or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their traders well supplied, and
+enable them to furnish their goods to the Indians at a cheap rate. Their
+men, too, being chiefly drawn from the Canadas, where they enjoy great
+influence and control, are engaged at the most trifling wages, and
+supported at little cost; the provisions which they take with them being
+little more than Indian corn and grease. They are brought also into the
+most perfect discipline and subordination, especially when their
+leaders have once got them to their scene of action in the heart of the
+wilderness.
+
+These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson’s Bay
+Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come
+within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost
+hopeless.
+
+Shortly after Captain Bonneville’s ineffectual attempt to participate
+in the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson’s Bay
+Company arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the
+market.
+
+It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month
+Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green
+River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the
+preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and
+prepared for the journey.
+
+The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country;
+which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie
+immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads
+of the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies;
+but they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois
+had, latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves
+to the Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their
+migrations rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages
+of the Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would
+range their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this
+was their reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal
+hunting ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his
+engagements required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River
+Valley; and he had already formed his ulterior plans.
+
+An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a
+stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey;
+the route lay through Pierre’s Hole, and other mountain passes infested
+by the Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They
+were not disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers,
+when they had good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the
+head-waters of Salmon River.
+
+As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt
+to be law--who had the whole wilderness before them, “where to choose,”
+ and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their
+services--it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain Bonneville
+fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question;
+appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing
+a rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing
+winter. The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or
+five hired men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of
+a trapping party; which when accurately organized is composed of two
+thirds trappers whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of
+game; and one third camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the
+tents, take care of the horses and do all other duties usually assigned
+by the Indians to their women. This part of the service is apt to
+be fulfilled by French creoles from Canada and the valley of the
+Mississippi.
+
+In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade
+and received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various
+directions. As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a
+mountain to the northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would
+have to pass; and as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had
+their scouts out watching every movement of the encampments, so as to
+cut off stragglers or weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed
+upon the Nez Perces to accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they
+should be beyond the range of the enemy.
+
+The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at
+the same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the
+Blackfeet; while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in
+an opposite direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre’s
+Hole, on his way to Green River.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same
+moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and
+picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their
+rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons,
+their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with
+packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening
+cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the
+plains and mountains.
+
+
+
+
+19.
+
+     Precautions in dangerous defiles--Trappers’ mode of defence
+     on a prairie--A mysterious visitor--Arrival in Green River
+     Valley--Adventures of the detachments--The forlorn partisan
+     --His tale of disasters.
+
+AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the
+most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures
+with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When
+on the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to
+reconnoitre the country through which they were to pass. The encampments
+were selected with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day.
+The horses were brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a
+party was sent out to scour the neighborhood for half a mile round,
+beating up every grove and thicket that could give shelter to a lurking
+foe. When all was reported safe, the horses were cast loose and turned
+out to graze. Were such precautions generally observed by traders and
+hunters, we should not so often hear of parties being surprised by the
+Indians.
+
+Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here
+mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from
+a veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey
+with a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses
+under his care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided
+with a picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern
+fetters for the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a
+long line; or sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from
+each other to prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when
+there is no covert at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to
+the rear and form a circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into
+the ground in the centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their
+forelegs, so that, in case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they
+unload them, and dispose of their packs as breastworks on the periphery
+of the circle; each man having nine packs behind which to shelter
+himself. In this promptly-formed fortress, they await the assault of the
+enemy, and are enabled to set large bands of Indians at defiance.
+
+The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry’s
+Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American
+trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all
+hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary
+female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on
+a mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched
+round the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently
+into the midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground,
+still holding her horse by the long halter.
+
+The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet
+resolute demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and
+trappers gathered round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She
+remained silent, but maintained her air of calmness and self-possession.
+Captain Bonneville approached and interrogated her as to the object
+of her mysterious visit. Her answer was brief but earnest--“I love the
+whites--I will go with them.” She was forthwith invited to a lodge,
+of which she readily took possession, and from that time forward was
+considered one of the camp.
+
+In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain
+Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous
+region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of
+a horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called
+the Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson’s and Pierre’s Hole, fell
+over the brink, and was dashed to pieces.
+
+On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River.
+As he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with
+the carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently
+been there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to
+a halt, and as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of
+rendezvous on Horse Creek, where he had expected to meet with his
+detached parties of trappers on the following day. Early in the morning
+the spies made their appearance in the camp, and with them came three
+trappers of one of his bands, from the rendezvous, who told him his
+people were all there expecting him. As to the slaughter among the
+buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band of Shoshonies, who had
+fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and accompanied them to the
+rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the three worthies from
+the rendezvous broached a small keg of “alcohol,” which they had brought
+with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor went briskly round;
+all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved forward to the
+rendezvous in high spirits.
+
+The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other
+on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its
+tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the
+various detachments of Captain Bonneville’s company, thus brought
+together on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which
+he had sent from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to
+winter on Snake River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the
+course of their spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men.
+They had come in competition with rival trapping parties, particularly
+one belonging to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long
+stories to relate of their manoeuvres to forestall or distress each
+other. In fact, in these virulent and sordid competitions, the trappers
+of each party were more intent upon injuring their rivals, than
+benefitting themselves; breaking each other’s traps, trampling and
+tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every thing in their
+power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail these pitiful
+contentions.
+
+The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville
+had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding
+year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow
+country, and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was
+to proceed and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This
+partisan appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful
+tale of disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell
+in with a village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse
+stealers, and errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of
+his men to desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When
+he attempted to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to
+him and declared the deserters were their good friends, had determined
+to remain among them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan,
+therefore, was fain to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their
+own feather, and being too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous
+pass across the mountains to meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he
+made, with the few that remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood
+of Tullock’s Fort, on the Yellowstone, under the protection of which he
+went into winter quarters.
+
+He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad
+as the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing
+away thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their
+hands on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for
+whiskey, and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery.
+
+The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a
+few free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off
+early in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the
+course of the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a
+steep mountain, that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during
+the night. The place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the
+sign of an Indian in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had
+been turned by a footstep. But who can calculate on security in the
+midst of the Indian country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy,
+and seems to come and go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce
+been turned loose, when a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors
+entered the camp. They affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their
+appearance and movements awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran
+trappers, well versed in Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies
+sent on some sinister errand, they took them in custody, and set to work
+to drive in the horses. It was too late--the horses were already gone.
+In fact, a war party of Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for
+several days, watching with the patience and perseverance of Indians,
+for some moment of negligence and fancied security, to make a successful
+swoop. The two spies had evidently been sent into the camp to create a
+diversion, while their confederates carried off the spoil.
+
+The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his
+prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them
+to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon
+found that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on
+horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very
+horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment;
+but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their
+steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was
+now attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to
+barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers
+spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were
+relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to
+their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a
+blaze.
+
+The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another,
+in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of
+the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of
+the captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many
+parting words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart,
+and knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort
+to escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and
+retaken; then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the
+sight of their retreating comrades.
+
+Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who
+mingle in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible
+recrimination on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any
+atrocities committed by the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this
+signal and recent provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the
+kind dwell in the recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of
+honor and conscience to revenge them.
+
+The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It
+was out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party;
+the only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first
+water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the
+stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments
+at which they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the
+partisan, he found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous
+at Green River Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain
+Bonneville this forlorn account of his misadventures.
+
+
+
+
+20.
+
+     Gathering in Green River valley--Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders--Rough wassailing among the trappers--Wild blades of
+     the mountains--Indian belles--Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets--Arrival of supplies--Revelry and extravagance
+     --Mad wolves--The lost Indian
+
+THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those
+general gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have
+already mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past
+had been endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were
+here encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About
+four miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the
+American Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain
+Fur Company.
+
+After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these
+companies in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus
+brought in juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly
+aloof from each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl
+and bloodshed would ensue.
+
+No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar,
+meet with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting
+season over, all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and
+bickerings buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of
+September, all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding
+their furs and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the
+trapper’s holiday, when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a
+saturnalia among the mountains.
+
+At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had
+been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits,
+had quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn
+every favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling
+at their respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in
+possession of a rich stock of peltries.
+
+The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of
+perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other
+in the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich
+treat for the worthy captain was to see the “chivalry” of the various
+encampments, engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping,
+wrestling, shooting with the rifle, and running horses. And then their
+rough hunters’ feastings and carousels. They drank together, they sang,
+they laughed, they whooped; they tried to out-brag and out-lie each
+other in stories of their adventures and achievements. Here the free
+trappers were in all their glory; they considered themselves the “cocks
+of the walk,” and always carried the highest crests. Now and then
+familiarity was pushed too far, and would effervesce into a brawl, and a
+“rough and tumble” fight; but it all ended in cordial reconciliation and
+maudlin endearment.
+
+The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause
+temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects
+of rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper
+who could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper
+of precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair
+one.
+
+The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period
+of gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager
+competition and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales
+were hastily ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth.
+A mania for purchasing spread itself throughout the several
+bands--munitions for war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon
+with equal avidity--rifles, hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red
+blankets, garish beads, and glittering trinkets, were bought at any
+price, and scores run up without any thought how they were ever to be
+rubbed off. The free trappers, especially, were extravagant in their
+purchases. For a free mountaineer to pause at a paltry consideration of
+dollars and cents, in the attainment of any object that might strike his
+fancy, would stamp him with the mark of the beast in the estimation of
+his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of these free and flourishing
+blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might stare him in the face,
+would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be forgiven.
+
+Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers
+were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses
+caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted
+about in all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality
+was indulged to its fullest extent, and in a little while most of
+the trappers, having squandered away all their wages, and perhaps
+run knee-deep in debt, were ready for another hard campaign in the
+wilderness.
+
+During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves
+in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps
+for three nights successively, and bit several of the people.
+
+Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal
+favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals.
+Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy,
+and lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted
+and urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him,
+and, leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth,
+gnashing his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his
+senses, and warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not
+be able to restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain
+relief; but on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and
+his accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards
+a solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a
+valley, and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the
+mountains, and was seen no more.
+
+Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the
+encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been
+bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on
+his return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed
+symptoms of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length,
+breaking away from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows,
+where they left him to his fate!
+
+
+
+
+21.
+
+     Schemes of Captain Bonneville--The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it--Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy,
+well-seasoned and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited
+by at least one year’s experience among the mountains, and capable of
+protecting themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing
+for their subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an
+excellent troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service.
+He determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of
+his scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the
+unknown tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the
+buffalo range. This would have something of the merit and charm of
+discovery, so dear to every brave and adventurous spirit. Another
+favorite project was to establish a trading post on the lower part
+of the Columbia River, near the Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to
+retrieve for his country some of the lost trade of Astoria.
+
+The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his
+mind--the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of the
+wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression
+on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal
+charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the
+mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those
+vast and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of
+the Pacific.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from
+the land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you
+behold this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and
+stretching further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse,
+until the eye, wearied with continued and strained attention, rests
+in the blue dimness of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains,
+confidently asserted to rise from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to
+you, the smooth and unruffled surface is studded with little islands,
+where the mountain sheep roam in considerable numbers. What extent of
+lowland may be encompassed by the high peaks beyond, must remain for the
+present matter of mere conjecture though from the form of the summits,
+and the breaks which may be discovered among them, there can be little
+doubt that they are the sources of streams calculated to water large
+tracts, which are probably concealed from view by the rotundity of the
+lake’s surface. At some future day, in all probability, the rich harvest
+of beaver fur, which may be reasonably anticipated in such a spot, will
+tempt adventurers to reduce all this doubtful region to the palpable
+certainty of a beaten track. At present, however, destitute of the means
+of making boats, the trapper stands upon the shore, and gazes upon a
+promised land which his feet are never to tread.
+
+Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to
+this great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas
+concerning it from the representations of others, who have somewhat
+exaggerated its features. It is reported to be about one hundred and
+fifty miles long, and fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks
+which Captain Bonneville speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are
+probably the summits of mountains beyond it, which may be visible at
+a vast distance, when viewed from an eminence, in the transparent
+atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several large islands certainly exist
+in the lake; one of which is said to be mountainous, but not by any
+means to the extent required to furnish the series of peaks above
+mentioned.
+
+Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains,
+is said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake,
+who professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered
+excessively from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and
+there being no fresh streams running into it.
+
+Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished
+the circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large
+streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring,
+when the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows,
+the lake rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer,
+it gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt
+upon its shores.
+
+The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is
+estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above
+the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the
+atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report
+of firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme
+dryness, causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced
+in former passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the
+Rocky Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a
+height is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though
+the salt lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation.
+
+To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was
+the grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was
+one in which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed
+it would be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams
+with which the lake must be fringed.
+
+This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in
+whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him
+to keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his
+route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his
+journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of
+his route, and of the surrounding country.
+
+No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men,
+which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were
+to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear
+River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point
+of general rendezvous.
+
+The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe
+transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic
+States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time
+in the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up
+their supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries
+collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow
+country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend
+in boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St.
+Louis.
+
+Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same
+route, under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would
+accompany Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal
+hunt in the Crow country.
+
+
+
+
+22.
+
+     The Crow country--A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows--
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man--His fights with
+     the Blackfeet--His elevation--His death--Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief--His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell--Honor among
+     Crows
+
+BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will
+impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who
+inhabit it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are
+any, of the country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from
+the Black Hills to the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty
+ranges, and embracing many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind
+River, the Yellowstone, the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the
+Nebraska. The country varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains
+of sand and clay, studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are
+mountainous and picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines,
+and abounds with game.
+
+But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a
+Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.
+
+“The Crow country,” said he, “is a good country. The Great Spirit has
+put it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well;
+whenever you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse.
+
+“If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains;
+the water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague.
+
+“To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no
+grass; you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is
+a country without horses?
+
+“On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and
+eat fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones
+out of their mouths. Fish is poor food.
+
+“To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the
+muddy water of the Missouri--that is bad. A Crow’s dog would not drink
+such water.
+
+“About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good
+grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow
+country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no
+salt weed for the horses.
+
+“The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains
+and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every
+season. When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under
+the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the
+bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can
+hunt the elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for
+dressing; there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep.
+
+“In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain
+pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap
+beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in
+the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for
+yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in
+the Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance.
+
+“The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to
+be found there. There is no country like the Crow country.”
+
+Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish.
+
+We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory
+habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but
+their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory
+habits, are gradually wearing them out.
+
+In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose,
+an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter
+to Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to
+Astoria, who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and
+who remained among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting
+their congenial habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of
+that renegade may not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected
+with the fortunes of the tribe.
+
+Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his
+daring deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He
+aspired to command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate
+exploits. He distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet.
+On one occasion, a band of those savages had fortified themselves within
+a breastwork, and could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work.
+“Who will take the lead?” was the demand. “I!” cried he; and putting
+himself at their head, rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed
+him he shot down with his rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his
+victim, killed four others within the fort. The victory was complete,
+and Rose returned to the Crow village covered with glory, and bearing
+five Blackfoot scalps, to be erected as a trophy before his lodge. From
+this time, he was known among the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats,
+or “the man who killed five.” He became chief of the village, or rather
+band, and for a time was the popular idol. His popularity soon awakened
+envy among the native braves; he was a stranger, an intruder, a white
+man. A party seceded from his command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded
+that lasted for two or three years, until Rose, having contrived to set
+his adopted brethren by the ears, left them, and went down the Missouri
+in 1823. Here he fell in with one of the earliest trapping expeditions
+sent by General Ashley across the mountains. It was conducted by
+Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose enlisted with them as guide
+and interpreter. When he got them among the Crows, he was exceedingly
+generous with their goods; making presents to the braves of his adopted
+tribe, as became a high-minded chief.
+
+This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition,
+Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley;
+the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse
+Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the
+instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was
+the perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr.
+Hunt and his party.
+
+The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General
+Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to
+protect the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation,
+at which Rose figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The
+military were stationed at some little distance from the scene of the
+“big talk”; while the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and
+making speeches, the officers, supposing all was friendly, left the
+troops, and drew near the scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing
+Crows, perceiving this, stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved,
+contrived to stop the touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly
+after, a misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the
+Indians, knowing the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult
+arose. In the confusion, Colonel O’Fallan snapped a pistol in the face
+of a brave, and knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all
+in a fury. A chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when
+Rose, his natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke
+the stock of his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so
+vigorously about him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng
+to flight. Luckily, as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting
+calmed the fury of the Crows, and the tumult ended without serious
+consequences.
+
+What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly
+known. Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by
+his licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud
+among the Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and
+the influence he acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial
+effects. He is said, not merely to have rendered them more formidable
+to the Blackfeet, but to have opened their eyes to the policy of
+cultivating the friendship of the white men.
+
+After Rose’s death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with
+indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who
+had been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed
+to develope. This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to
+restrain the predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against
+the white men. “If we keep friends with them,” said he, “we have nothing
+to fear from the Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains.” Arapooish
+pretended to be a great “medicine man”, a character among the Indians
+which is a compound of priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried
+about with him a tame eagle, as his “medicine” or familiar. With the
+white men, he acknowledged that this was all charlatanism, but said it
+was necessary, to give him weight and influence among his people.
+
+Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the
+course of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the
+village of Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had
+collected a large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered,
+deposited but a part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a
+cache. One night, Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and
+seated himself for a time without saying a word. At length, turning to
+Campbell, “You have more furs with you,” said he, “than you have brought
+into my lodge?”
+
+“I have,” replied Campbell.
+
+“Where are they?”
+
+Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and
+the importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where
+he had concealed his peltries.
+
+“‘Tis well,” replied Arapooish; “you speak straight. It is just as you
+say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been
+taken from it.”
+
+Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one
+hundred and fifty beaver skins.
+
+Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached
+his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and
+commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back:
+declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he
+would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him.
+
+The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged
+Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring
+in the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered.
+
+In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at
+a time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them
+departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat
+in one corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a
+muscle of his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all
+the skins had been brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and
+Campbell expressed himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He
+fasted all that night, nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some
+more skins were brought in, and continued to come, one and two at a
+time, throughout the day, until but a few were wanting to make the
+number complete. Campbell was now anxious to put an end to this fasting
+of the old chief, and again declared that he was perfectly satisfied.
+Arapooish demanded what number of skins were yet wanting. On being told,
+he whispered to some of his people, who disappeared. After a time the
+number were brought in, though it was evident they were not any of the
+skins that had been stolen, but others gleaned in the village.
+
+“Is all right now?” demanded Arapooish.
+
+“All is right,” replied Campbell.
+
+“Good! Now bring me meat and drink!”
+
+When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his
+guest.
+
+“When you come another time among the Crows,” said he, “don’t hide your
+goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the
+lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one
+who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for
+my sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may
+be disposed to be troublesome. Don’t linger, therefore, but pack your
+horses and be off.”
+
+Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow
+country. He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black
+as they are painted. “Trust to their honor,” says he, “and you are safe:
+trust to their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head.”
+
+Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the
+course of our narrative.
+
+
+
+
+23.
+
+     Departure from--Green River valley--Popo-Agie--Its course--
+     The rivers into which it runs--Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring--Volcanic tracts in the Crow country--
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River--Sulphur springs--Hidden
+     fires--Colter’s Hell-Wind River--Campbell’s party--
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers--Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller--Nathaniel Wyeth--Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West--Disaster of Campbell’s party--A union of
+     bands--The Bad Pass--The rapids--Departure of Fitzpatrick--
+     Embarkation of peltries--Wyeth and his bull boat--Adventures
+     of Captain--Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains--Adventures
+     in the plain--Traces of Indians--Travelling precautions--
+     Dangers of making a smoke--The rendezvous
+
+ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out
+on his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men,
+including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River
+valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of
+mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell’s party,
+which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived
+that it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this
+was different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to
+the northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream
+takes its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian
+names, is characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head;
+and Agie, river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the
+south end of the Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it
+falls into the Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains,
+but is twice crossed by chains of mountains; the first called the
+Littlehorn; the second, the Bighorn. After it has forced its way through
+the first chain, it is called the Horn River; after the second chain,
+it is called the Bighorn River. Its passage through this last chain
+is rough and violent; making repeated falls, and rushing down long and
+furious rapids, which threaten destruction to the navigator; though a
+hardy trapper is said to have shot down them in a canoe. At the foot of
+these rapids, is the head of navigation; where it was the intention of
+the parties to construct boats, and embark.
+
+Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in
+full view of the “Bluffs,” as they are called, extending from the base
+of the Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the
+eye a confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and
+angular, some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up
+in fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no
+soil favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all
+this isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints
+and hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty.
+
+In this neighborhood, the captain made search for “the great Tar
+Spring,” one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties
+of which, he had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a
+toilsome search, he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east
+of the Wind River Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the
+color and consistency of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect
+a quantity of it, to use as an ointment for the galled backs of
+their horses, and as a balsam for their own pains and aches. From the
+description given of it, it is evidently the bituminous oil, called
+petrolium or naphtha, which forms a principal ingredient in the potent
+medicine called British Oil. It is found in various parts of Europe and
+Asia, in several of the West India islands, and in some places of the
+United States. In the state of New York, it is called Seneca Oil, from
+being found near the Seneca lake.
+
+The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in
+superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the
+trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding
+with anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places
+emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A
+volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of
+the tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the
+odor derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned
+place was first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and
+Clarke’s exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely
+wanderings, and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden
+fires, smoking pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading “smell
+of brimstone,” that it received, and has ever since retained among
+trappers, the name of “Colter’s Hell!”
+
+Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain
+Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams
+entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name
+to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most
+important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen,
+Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for
+a fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the
+afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on
+the opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were
+Indians; he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and,
+by the long line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of
+Campbell, which, having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to
+the Horn River.
+
+The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the
+4th of August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn
+Mountain. In company with Campbell’s convoy was a trapping party of the
+Rocky Mountain Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell’s
+embarkation on the Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses,
+and proceed on a trapping campaign. There were, moreover, two chance
+companions in the rival camp. One was Captain Stewart, of the British
+army, a gentleman of noble connections, who was amusing himself by a
+wandering tour in the Far West; in the course of which, he had lived
+in hunter’s style; accompanying various bands of traders, trappers, and
+Indians; and manifesting that relish for the wilderness that belongs to
+men of game spirit.
+
+The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell’s camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth;
+the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with
+whom we parted company in the valley of Pierre’s Hole, after the battle
+with the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out
+from the rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of
+trappers. On his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to
+the deserted fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a
+dismal scene. The fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the
+slain; while vultures soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around;
+and Indian dogs howled about the place, as if bewailing the death
+of their masters. Wyeth travelled for a considerable distance to the
+southwest, in company with Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the
+former, with eleven men, the remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake
+River; kept down the course of that eventful stream; traversed the Blue
+Mountains, trapping beaver occasionally by the way, and finally, after
+hardships of all kinds, arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver,
+on the Columbia, the main factory of the Hudson’s Bay Company.
+
+He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that
+company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or
+tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue
+any longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some
+entered into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the
+goods he had brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a
+word, his expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a
+failure. He lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as
+strong as ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of
+service to him in the further prosecution of his project; collected
+all the information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by
+merely two men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got
+thus far “by hook and by crook,” a mode in which a New England man can
+make his way all over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties,
+and was now bound for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a
+company for the salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia.
+
+The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of
+their route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were
+reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one
+night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this
+tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and
+confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the
+horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head,
+and nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses,
+leaving the rest of the party to find their way to the main body on
+foot.
+
+The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus
+fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great
+good fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The
+captain, however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his
+trappers, who kept profound silence as to their future movements,
+intended to hunt the same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal
+campaign; which lay to the west of the Horn River, on its tributary
+streams. In the course of his march, therefore, he secretly detached
+a small party of trappers, to make their way to those hunting grounds,
+while he continued on with the main body; appointing a rendezvous, at
+the next full moon, about the 28th of August, at a place called the
+Medicine Lodge.
+
+On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where
+the river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with
+cascades and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks,
+and traverse the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically
+called the “Bad Pass.” Descending the opposite side, they again made for
+the river banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below
+the rapids where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain
+Bonneville detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten
+men, to seek and join those whom he had detached while on the route;
+appointing for them the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the
+28th of August.
+
+All hands now set to work to construct “bull boats,” as they are
+technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of
+the expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo
+skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats.
+Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood,
+launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down
+an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries
+teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow
+traveller, and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre’s Hole,
+took passage in his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two
+Indians. We shall hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the
+course of our wanderings about the Far West.
+
+The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That
+of Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he
+embarked all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a
+party of thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and
+the little squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the
+Bighorn.
+
+The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his
+men first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably,
+superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in
+that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the
+peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above
+a hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder,
+and Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was
+desirous of having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures
+they met with in that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall
+have something to relate hereafter.
+
+Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign
+without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at
+Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six
+horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain
+and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril
+for a numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his
+difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit.
+
+In the afternoon of his first day’s journey, on drawing near to the
+Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the
+night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from
+its base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very
+irregular; sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up
+in heavy volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there;
+probably, some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do
+for so small a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture
+within sight of any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his
+companions, therefore, avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and,
+proceeding with extreme caution, reached the summit of the mountain,
+apparently without being discovered. Here they found a deserted
+Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced themselves; disposed of every
+thing as securely as possible, and passed the night without molestation.
+Early the next morning they descended the south side of the mountain
+into the great plain extending between it and the Littlehorn range. Here
+they soon came upon numerous footprints, and the carcasses of buffaloes;
+by which they knew there must be Indians not far off. Captain Bonneville
+now began to feel solicitude about the two small parties of trappers
+which he had detached, lest the Indians should have come upon them
+before they had united their forces. But he felt still more solicitude
+about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he could traverse
+these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad; and should
+he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one. Everything now
+depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous to discharge
+a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such quick-eared
+and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the day they
+saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in great
+numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they encamped
+with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for their
+protection.
+
+For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but
+cautiously, across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the
+Horn River; encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island;
+meeting, repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in
+passing through a defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock
+their rifles.
+
+On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution,
+and they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the
+report. They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with
+them to the place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived
+safely, in the evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper.
+
+The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a
+fortress of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest
+caution. Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no
+glare, and a moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance.
+In the morning and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises
+perpendicularly in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the
+tree-tops, and can be discovered from afar.
+
+In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously
+encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had
+been expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had
+their several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we
+will furnish to the reader in the next chapter.
+
+
+
+
+24.
+
+     Adventures of the party of ten--The--Balaamite mule--A dead
+     point--The mysterious elks--A night attack--A retreat--
+     Travelling under an alarm--A joyful meeting--Adventures of
+     the other party--A decoy elk--Retreat to an island--A savage
+     dance of triumph--Arrival at Wind River
+
+THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These
+trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where
+the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain,
+and having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set
+his trap in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his
+steed came to a full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to
+every blow and kick the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused
+to budge an inch. The rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of
+some cause for this demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian
+fort within gunshot distance, lowering through the twilight. In a
+twinkling he wheeled about; his mule now seemed as eager to get on as
+himself, and in a few moments brought him, clattering with his traps,
+among his comrades. He was jeered at for his alacrity in retreating;
+his report was treated as a false alarm; his brother trappers contented
+themselves with reconnoitring the fort at a distance, and pronounced
+that it was deserted.
+
+As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on
+his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard
+stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their
+blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with
+a long day’s march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a
+profound sleep.
+
+The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the
+sentinel stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped
+as heartily as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to
+nod at his post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He
+half opened his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about
+the lodges, picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight
+of elk within the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but
+having had his supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to
+graze about unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze.
+
+Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and
+tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to
+secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking,
+and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and
+firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded
+in driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered
+still more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage,
+and camp furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The
+Indians, in the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up
+the most horrible clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or
+frightening off the horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked
+them briskly and drove them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept
+up for an hour, when the Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave
+up the contest and retired. They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet,
+who, while in search of the Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of
+Captain Bonneville on the Popo Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but
+had been completely baffled by his vigilance. They had then waylaid the
+present detachment, and were actually housed in perfect silence within
+their fort, when the mule of the trapper made such a dead point.
+
+The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility,
+mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of
+the most insulting kind.
+
+In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed.
+On preparing the morning’s meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and
+other articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by
+the fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel.
+As the Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had
+intended to travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward
+rapidly through the “Bad Pass,” nor halted until night; when, supposing
+themselves out of the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with
+tying up their horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to
+sleep, when a dog strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons
+tied upon his back; for dogs are made to carry burdens among the
+Indians. The sentinel, more knowing than he of the preceding night,
+awoke his companions and reported the circumstance. It was evident that
+Indians were at hand. All were instantly at work; a strong pen was soon
+constructed for the horses, after completing which, they resumed their
+slumbers with the composure of men long inured to dangers.
+
+In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various
+suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them.
+Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which,
+with the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be
+that of the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his
+march, and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from
+various signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the
+Indians. They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried
+them to the banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its
+course, until they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here,
+to their great joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in
+search, all strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and
+anxiety.
+
+We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers.
+These men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville,
+had proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river,
+trapping beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit
+their traps, one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a
+distance, and requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started
+off for the purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some
+savages in ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off
+his hide and his horn, started forth an Indian warrior.
+
+One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the
+others fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could
+carry off, retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge
+among the willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had
+fallen, but who had merely been wounded in the neck.
+
+In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with
+all the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among
+the spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came
+sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached
+near by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at
+the same moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and
+warned of his danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a
+moment, bewildered and aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and
+made off at full speed, quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians
+rattled after him.
+
+In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed
+a circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky
+trappers for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they
+considered cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their
+usual mode of bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of
+the willows. A sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden
+halt, and laid three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed
+himself on an eminence to direct all the movements of his people,
+seeing three of his warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They
+immediately did so, and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point
+of woods, carrying off with them the horses, traps, and the greater part
+of the baggage.
+
+It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered
+this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up
+after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could
+not be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in
+a neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made
+their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous.
+
+Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well
+as from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in
+a neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also,
+who visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of
+Crows marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore,
+on the 1st of September, made his way to the south, across the
+Littlehorn Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning
+westward, moved slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his
+men to trap as he proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present
+hunting campaigns to go near the caches on Green River, and as the
+trappers were in want of traps to replace those they had lost, Captain
+Bonneville undertook to visit the caches, and procure a supply. To
+accompany him in this hazardous expedition, which would take him through
+the defiles of the Wind River Mountains, and up the Green River valley,
+he took but three men; the main party were to continue on trapping up
+toward the head of Wind River, near which he was to rejoin them, just
+about the place where that stream issues from the mountains. We shall
+accompany the captain on his adventurous errand.
+
+
+
+
+25.
+
+     Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley--Journey
+     up the Popo Agie--Buffaloes--The staring white bears--The
+     smok--The warm springs--Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains--The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms--
+     Crystal lakes--Ascent of a snowy peak--Sublime prospect--A
+     panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains
+
+HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville
+and his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they
+fell upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their
+course, nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous
+droves of buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of
+beef. As the hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the
+game, two small white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path,
+and, rising upon their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a
+whimsically solemn gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the
+bears, having apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves
+upon all fours, and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon
+which the bears turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated
+their serio-comic examination. This was repeated several times, until
+the hunters, piqued at their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a
+discharge of their rifles. The bears made an awkward bound or two, as
+if wounded, and then walked off with great gravity, seeming to commune
+together, and every now and then turning to take another look at the
+hunters. It was well for the latter that the bears were but half grown,
+and had not yet acquired the ferocity of their kind.
+
+The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but
+the hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having
+secured the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after
+dark, when, encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great
+fire, roasted buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the
+whole of it with keen relish and high glee, and then “turned in” for the
+night and slept soundly, like weary and well fed hunters.
+
+At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river,
+passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful
+groves of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville
+observed a smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the
+route he was pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed
+the horses in a thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled
+cautiously up a height, from which he could overlook the scene of
+danger. Here, with a spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding
+country, but not a lodge nor fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be
+discovered; in short, the smoke which had caused such alarm proved to
+be the vapor from several warm, or rather hot springs of considerable
+magnitude, pouring forth streams in every direction over a bottom of
+white clay. One of the springs was about twenty-five yards in diameter,
+and so deep that the water was of a bright green color.
+
+They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River
+Mountains, which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round
+their southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they
+force their way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The
+mountains were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped,
+however, that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted,
+accordingly, to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the
+branches of the Popo Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of
+stupendous crags and precipices that barred all progress. Retracing
+their steps, and falling back upon the river, they consulted where to
+make another attempt. They were too close beneath the mountains to scan
+them generally, but they now recollected having noticed, from the plain,
+a beautiful slope rising, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and
+apparently without any break, until it reached the snowy region. Seeking
+this gentle acclivity, they began to ascend it with alacrity, trusting
+to find at the top one of those elevated plains which prevail among the
+Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with coarse gravel, interspersed
+with plates of freestone. They attained the summit with some toil, but
+found, instead of a level, or rather undulating plain, that they were
+on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from the bottom of which
+rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just ascended. Down
+into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged path, or
+rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second slope. They
+gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine, and now
+perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a sloping
+and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by
+frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and
+dangerous.
+
+In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly
+and sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and
+scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous
+and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded.
+Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain
+stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they
+availed themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep,
+which, however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or
+led to rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they
+were obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which
+attempt some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the
+bottom, and came near being dashed to pieces.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the
+elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were
+two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of
+stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly
+refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those
+mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander
+hundreds of miles through the plains.
+
+In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted
+to repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and
+tender herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level
+of the plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon
+another, and beetling like battlements far above them. While two of
+the men remained in the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville,
+accompanied by the other men [man], set out to climb a neighboring
+height, hoping to gain a commanding prospect, and discern some
+practicable route through this stupendous labyrinth. After much toil, he
+reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it was only to behold gigantic
+peaks rising all around, and towering far into the snowy regions of the
+atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be the highest, he crossed a
+narrow intervening valley, and began to scale it. He soon found that
+he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride of man is never more
+obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent was so steep and
+rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged to clamber on
+hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently,
+exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they threw
+themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their
+parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and
+hung them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble
+over these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool
+breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to
+their task, they at length attained the summit.
+
+Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time
+astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact,
+upon that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world;
+and on each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the
+two cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it
+was confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the
+Rocky Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn
+valleys; treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming
+torrents; while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an
+almost immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and
+hazy distance, like the expanse of a summer’s sea. Whichever way he
+looked, he beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty
+streams wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy
+mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted
+like clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed
+realized: he had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior,
+after death, first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the
+happy hunting grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes
+of the free and generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while
+gazing upon this scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas
+and sensations. A long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from
+this enthralment of the mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this
+vast panorama. A simple enumeration of a few of its features may give
+some idea of its collective grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole
+Wind River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense
+mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with
+narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes
+and gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty
+tributaries to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks,
+to the south, and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river,
+called the Sweet Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the
+rugged regions of the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind
+River wandered through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current,
+they forced their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost
+to view. To the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the
+Yellowstone, that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction
+were to be seen some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing
+to the northwest, past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and
+pouring down into the great lava plain; while, almost at the captain’s
+feet, the Green River, or Colorado of the West, set forth on its
+wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of California; at first a mere mountain
+torrent, dashing northward over a crag and precipice, in a succession
+of cascades, and tumbling into the plain where, expanding into an ample
+river, it circled away to the south, and after alternately shining out
+and disappearing in the mazes of the vast landscape, was finally lost
+in a horizon of mountains. The day was calm and cloudless, and the
+atmosphere so pure that objects were discernible at an astonishing
+distance. The whole of this immense area was inclosed by an outer range
+of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked on the horizon, which
+seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth.
+
+It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with
+him with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it
+as his opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American
+continent; but of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain
+that the Rocky Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was
+formerly supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest
+peak is further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr.
+Thompson, surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means
+of the barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be
+twenty-five thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only
+inferior to that of the Himalayas.
+
+For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with
+wonder and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling
+about the snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained
+the spot where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their
+coats, which were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down
+the peak, they safely rejoined their companions on the border of the
+lake.
+
+Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these
+mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out
+hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley.
+Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three
+savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call
+their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled
+the faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and
+reported what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that
+these belonged to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit
+the highest and most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie
+language, and probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have
+peculiarities of their own, which distinguish them from all other
+Indians. They are miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of
+every convenience to be derived from an intercourse with the whites.
+Their weapons are bows and stone-pointed arrows, with which they
+hunt the deer, the elk, and the mountain sheep. They are to be found
+scattered about the countries of the Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and
+Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are always in lonely places, and
+the clefts of the rocks.
+
+Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary
+valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried
+among the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still
+more rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their
+dread of strangers.
+
+As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are
+inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare:
+should one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he
+is sure to be made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a
+scalp, and that barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings,
+forming a mere link between human nature and the brute, have been looked
+down upon with pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have
+given them the appellation of “les dignes de pitie,” or “the objects
+of pity.”; They appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the
+mountains.
+
+
+
+
+26.
+
+     A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent--Alpine
+     scenery--Cascades--Beaver valleys--Beavers at work--Their
+     architecture--Their modes of felling trees--Mode of trapping
+     beaver--Contests of skill--A beaver “up to trap”--Arrival at
+     the Green River caches
+
+THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had
+excited Captain Bonneville’s enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would
+be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers
+of cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he
+endeavored to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round
+the southern point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself
+from the heart of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as
+to penetrate it. Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream,
+the commencement of some future river, he descended from rock to rock,
+and shelf to shelf, between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that
+sprang up to the sky. Often he had to cross and recross the rushing
+torrent, as it wound foaming and roaring down its broken channel, or
+was walled by perpendicular precipices; and imminent was the hazard of
+breaking the legs of the horses in the clefts and fissures of slippery
+rocks. The whole scenery of this deep ravine was of Alpine wildness
+and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers passed beneath cascades which
+pitched from such lofty heights that the water fell into the stream like
+heavy rain. In other places, torrents came tumbling from crag to crag,
+dashing into foam and spray, and making tremendous din and uproar.
+
+On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond
+the steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged
+ravine began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and
+the stream to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character.
+Here, not merely the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it,
+was dammed up by communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate
+the neighborhood, and make continual swamps.
+
+During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville
+left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to
+reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and
+caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work
+upon the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold
+the mode of operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward,
+therefore, with the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water
+willows without making any noise, until having attained a position
+commanding a view of the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the
+ground, and watched the solitary workman. In a little while, three
+others appeared at the head of the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With
+these they proceeded directly to the barrier, which Captain Bonneville
+perceived was in need of repair. Having deposited their loads upon the
+broken part, they dived into the water, and shortly reappeared at the
+surface. Each now brought a quantity of mud, with which he would plaster
+the sticks and bushes just deposited. This kind of masonry was continued
+for some time, repeated supplies of wood and mud being brought, and
+treated in the same manner. This done, the industrious beavers indulged
+in a little recreation, chasing each other about the pond, dodging and
+whisking about on the surface, or diving to the bottom; and in their
+frolic, often slapping their tails on the water with a loud clacking
+sound. While they were thus amusing themselves, another of the
+fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their sports for
+some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed the bank
+close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on his
+hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young
+pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would
+tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining
+his sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of
+a monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down
+the tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by
+the approach of Captain Bonneville’s men, who, feeling anxious at the
+protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the
+sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived
+at once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain
+Bonneville regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the
+sagacity of the beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said,
+they manage to make them fall into the water, and in such a position and
+direction as may be most favorable for conveyance to the desired point.
+In the present instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it
+grew perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the
+beaver could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really
+capable of exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently
+engaged in “belting” the tree, and his first incision had been on the
+side nearest to the water.
+
+Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged
+sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has
+no other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle
+calculation as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he
+thinks, has been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees
+growing near water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or
+stretch their largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space,
+the light, and the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks
+those trees which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or
+pond. He makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them
+with his teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in
+which their trunks or branches preponderate.
+
+“I have often,” says Captain Bonneville, “seen trees measuring eighteen
+inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the
+beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently
+for the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do
+they at times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on
+Snake River, a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which
+he had made, the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until
+he died.”
+
+Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by
+the beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter
+provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this
+business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited.
+Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the
+branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into
+lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to
+their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious
+of cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts,
+will carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw
+them into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of
+their territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange
+beaver to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence
+as almost to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the
+breeding season, the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a
+tour of pleasure, rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself
+in every clear and quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing
+the banks occasionally to feast upon the tender sprouts of the young
+willows. As summer advances, he gives up his bachelor rambles, and
+bethinking himself of housekeeping duties, returns home to his mate and
+his new progeny, and marshals them all for the foraging expedition in
+quest of winter provisions.
+
+After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal
+as a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as
+the father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is
+environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household.
+
+Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to
+the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he
+can detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the
+lodge may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can
+generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of
+its inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the
+shore, in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of
+the water, and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A
+small twig is then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the
+“medicine,” as the trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ.
+This end of the stick rises about four inches above the surface of
+the water, the other end is planted between the jaws of the trap. The
+beaver, possessing an acute sense of smell, is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait. As he raises his nose toward it, his foot is caught
+in the trap. In his fright he throws a somerset into the deep water. The
+trap, being fastened to the pole, resists all his efforts to drag it
+to the shore; the chain by which it is fastened defies his teeth; he
+struggles for a time, and at length sinks to the bottom and is drowned.
+
+Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is
+thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened
+by the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he
+is entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however,
+it costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming,
+before he finds his game.
+
+Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are
+trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and
+can scarcely be “brought to medicine,” to use the trapper’s phrase for
+“taking the bait.” In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the
+bait, and conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of
+the household. The beaver now being completely “up to trap,” approaches
+them cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other
+times, he turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and
+occasionally even drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the
+mud. The trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering
+his traps, marches off, admitting that he is not yet “up to beaver.”
+
+On the day following Captain Bonneville’s supervision of the industrious
+and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying
+an account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River
+Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend
+to the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived
+without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous
+in Green River valley, on the 17th of September.
+
+He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods
+and equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the
+necessary supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all
+traces that might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders.
+
+
+
+
+27.
+
+     Route toward--Wind River--Dangerous neighborhood--Alarms and
+     precautions--A sham encampment--Apparition of an Indian spy--
+     Midnight move--A mountain defile--The Wind River valley--
+     Tracking a party--Deserted camps--Symptoms of Crows--Meeting
+     of comrades--A trapper entrapped--Crow pleasantry--Crow
+     spies--A decampment--Return to Green River valley--Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick’s party--Their adventures among the Crows--
+     Orthodox Crows
+
+ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions
+set out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had
+parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with
+that stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River
+Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile
+which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains,
+to the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party,
+according to arrangement.
+
+We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood,
+infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous
+defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and
+surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything
+that might give intimation of lurking danger.
+
+About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill,
+they discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction.
+One of the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was
+concluded, therefore, that there was some party of Indians below,
+hunting the buffalo.
+
+The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the
+captain, mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view,
+reconnoitred the whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was
+to be seen; so, after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey.
+Convinced, however, that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced
+with the utmost caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines,
+and avoiding, as much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground,
+that might betray his little party to the watchful eye of an Indian
+scout.
+
+Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering
+on the river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see,
+scampering in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his
+companions remained for a long time watching the various groups of the
+animals, as each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in
+vain to discover the cause.
+
+They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green
+River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore,
+arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and
+convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they
+again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction.
+
+It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping
+for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville,
+therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for
+encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently
+dark, to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some
+secluded spot for their night’s lodgings.
+
+Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made
+a large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when
+sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting
+off huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter’s
+appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to
+attract the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they
+trusted to be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place.
+While they were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party
+suddenly started up and shouted “Indians!” All were instantly on their
+feet, with their rifles in their hands; but could see no enemy. The
+man, however, declared that he had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously,
+along the trail which they had made in coming to the encampment; who,
+the moment he was perceived, had thrown himself on the ground, and
+disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville instantly to decamp. The
+captain, however, took the matter more coolly. The single fact, that the
+Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced him that he was not
+one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He was, probably, some
+scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came in sight of their
+fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he had seen to his
+companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped for the night,
+would keep aloof until very late, when all should be asleep. They would,
+then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy approaches, and
+place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their attack, at the
+usual hour of daylight.
+
+Such was Captain Bonneville’s conclusion; in consequence of which, he
+counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from
+all alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly,
+continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then
+trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon,
+however, as the night had completely set in, they left their fire
+blazing; walked quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their
+saddles, made off as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left
+the point of danger behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious
+taciturnity, and began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they
+pictured to themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted
+fire, waiting for the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand
+disappointment.
+
+About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure
+distance, they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the
+enemy should follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a
+dense and matted thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of
+the mountain, instead of making for the summit, as they had originally
+intended.
+
+A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches
+morsels of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when
+surrounded by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for
+sleep with perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and
+cook, it is true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come
+to a halt, and have provisions. They comforted themselves, however,
+by smoking a tranquil pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning
+loose the horses, stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that
+whoever should first awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while
+were all as sound asleep as though in the midst of a fortress.
+
+A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for
+Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at
+a little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or
+hear an enemy.
+
+With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them
+to the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the
+sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into
+their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the
+mountain, avoiding the direct route.
+
+At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course
+so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now
+made sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were
+tracks of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had
+recently returned, baffled in their search.
+
+Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken
+before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they
+pushed briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they
+cautiously concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains.
+
+Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of
+Wind River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed
+the rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the
+Crow country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of
+that restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon
+a trail which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old,
+however, that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood;
+driven off, perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the
+prowl. He continued his search with great anxiety, and no little
+fatigue; for his horses were jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced
+marches and scramblings through rocky defiles.
+
+On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a
+deserted camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned
+back; but he could find no signs to indicate why they had done so;
+whether they had met with misfortune, or molestation, or in what
+direction they had gone. He was now, more than ever, perplexed.
+
+On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The
+feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the
+rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About
+noon, he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost
+their trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a
+southerly direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains,
+which towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible
+speed, in hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another
+of their camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day
+dawned sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that
+must be dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were
+traces of Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his
+people had passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about
+them. Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great
+distance, he mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to
+overtake them, to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt,
+until he should rejoin them.
+
+In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with
+six comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his
+accommodation; and on the following day (September 25th), all hands
+were once more reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their
+meeting was hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and
+perplexities.
+
+The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had
+been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they
+had been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their
+horses had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so
+closely beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest
+they should be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had
+caused such perplexity to Captain Bonneville.
+
+The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give
+repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued
+their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was
+setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up,
+beheld a party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a
+considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was
+discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells,
+they dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their
+tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave
+himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather
+than a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while,
+at the expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow
+pranks and pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true,
+they stripped him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun,
+a third his traps, a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his
+accoutrements, and even his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then
+they generously made him a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and
+dismissed him, with many complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When
+the trapper returned to the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted
+with peals of laughter from his comrades and seemed more mortified by
+the style in which he had been dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with
+his life. A circumstance which he related to Captain Bonneville, gave
+some insight into the cause of this extreme jocularity on the part
+of the Crows. They had evidently had a run of luck, and, like winning
+gamblers, were in high good humor. Among twenty-six fine horses, and
+some mules, which composed their cavalcade, the trapper recognized a
+number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick’s brigade, when they parted
+company on the Bighorn. It was supposed, therefore, that these vagabonds
+had been on his trail, and robbed him of part of his cavalry.
+
+On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain
+Bonneville’s camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air
+imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern,
+in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of
+the set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band,
+they were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his
+usual kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the
+camp, and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he
+caused a strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at
+night, stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated
+against the latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect
+them to be spies, who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his
+precautions. At the same time, he assured his guests, that while they
+were perfectly welcome to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet,
+should any of their tribe venture to approach during the night, they
+would certainly be shot; which would be a very unfortunate circumstance,
+and much to be deplored. To the latter remark, they fully assented; and
+shortly afterward commenced a wild song, or chant, which they kept up
+for a long time, and in which they very probably gave their friends, who
+might be prowling round the camp, notice that the white men were on the
+alert. The night passed away without disturbance. In the morning, the
+three Crow guests were very pressing that Captain Bonneville and his
+party should accompany them to their camp, which they said was close
+by. Instead of accepting their invitation, Captain Bonneville took his
+departure with all possible dispatch, eager to be out of the vicinity
+of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the diligence of his march,
+until, on the second day, he reached the banks of the Sweet Water,
+beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall of snow had
+obliterated all traces of his course.
+
+He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point
+of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches,
+on the 14th of October.
+
+Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the
+defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of
+them on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back
+their trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they
+had discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but
+fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions,
+and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville
+discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than
+ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a
+formidable band of freebooters.
+
+He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on
+the 25th of October reached Liberge’s Ford, a tributary of the Colorado,
+where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which
+had crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the
+water that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they
+could not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the
+Crow nation.
+
+Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force
+should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of
+fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane’s Fork, another
+tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the
+26th of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed
+it to arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to
+procure information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band
+of Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party
+of trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of
+his fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain
+Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap
+upon Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with
+him, and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not
+pass through the Crow country without attracting the attention of its
+freebooting hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces,
+and came up with them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached
+Tongue River. The Crow chief came forward with great appearance
+of friendship, and proposed to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp
+together. The latter, however, not having any faith in Crows, declined
+the invitation, and pitched his camp three miles off. He then rode over
+with two or three men, to visit the Crow chief, by whom he was received
+with great apparent cordiality. In the meantime, however, a party of
+young braves, who considered them absolved by his distrust from all
+scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and dashed into his
+encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the absence of
+Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too numerous
+and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made booty
+of every thing--carrying off all the horses. On their way back they met
+Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by rifling
+and nearly stripping him.
+
+A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the
+triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of,
+we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain
+to return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles
+and a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all
+speed to abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh
+disasters.
+
+After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows
+pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out
+of their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation
+of the Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about
+him on his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and
+mules. It was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely
+trapper on the Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in
+exchange for his rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these
+anecdotes, we shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and
+its vagabond chivalry.
+
+
+
+
+28.
+
+     A region of natural curiosities--The plain of white clay--
+     Hot springs--The Beer Spring--Departure to seek the free
+     trappers--Plain of Portneuf--Lava--Chasms and gullies--
+     Bannack Indians--Their hunt of the buffalo--Hunter’s feast--
+     Trencher heroes--Bullying of an absent foe--The damp
+     comrade--The Indian spy--Meeting with Hodgkiss--His
+     adventures--Poordevil Indians--Triumph of the Bannacks--
+     Blackfeet policy in war
+
+CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear
+River, which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake,
+describes the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters
+of this river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never
+been visited by the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being
+barricadoed [sic] by fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices.
+
+Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November,
+at the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three
+miles in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and
+connected with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the
+Little Lake, to distinguish it from the great one of salt water.
+
+On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the
+neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area
+of about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or
+fuller’s earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian
+marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful
+at all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in
+autumn, when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the
+withered herbage. Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like
+a mirror, set in the brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered
+numerous springs of various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of
+scalding heat, boils furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of
+two or three feet. In another place, there is an aperture in the earth,
+from which rushes a column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The
+ground for some distance around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary
+trapper, as he hears the tramp of his horse giving the sound of a
+muffled drum. He pictures to himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of
+hidden fires, and gazes round him with awe and uneasiness.
+
+The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer
+Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn
+aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with
+as much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert.
+Captain Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men
+drank it with avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him
+to possess any medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects.
+The Indians, however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the
+white men from doing so.
+
+We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as
+containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the
+properties of the Ballston water.
+
+The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the
+party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the
+command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River.
+His intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at
+present travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the
+winter. Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave
+of his band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by
+three men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain
+of the Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an
+unfortunate Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country
+through which he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and
+conflagrations in the olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered
+about in every direction; the crags and cliffs had apparently been under
+the action of fire; the rocks in some places seemed to have been in
+a state of fusion; the plain was rent and split with deep chasms and
+gullies, some of which were partly filled with lava.
+
+They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of
+horsemen, galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and
+made full speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves
+among the trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came
+forward alone. He reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they
+were dismounting and about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all
+uneasiness. It was a party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to
+the whites, and they proposed, through their envoy, that both parties
+should encamp together, and hunt the buffalo, of which they had
+discovered several large herds hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully
+assented to their proposition, being curious to see their manner of
+hunting.
+
+Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and
+prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill
+near the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The “runners,” then,
+as they are called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and
+arrows, moved slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much
+as possible out of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper
+distance, a signal was given, and they all opened at once like a pack
+of hounds, with a full chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the
+herds, and launching their arrows to the right and left. The plain
+seemed absolutely to shake under the tramp of the buffalo, as they
+scoured off. The cows in headlong panic, the bulls furious with rage,
+uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning with a desperate rush upon
+their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the spirit, grace, and dexterity,
+with which the Indians managed their horses; wheeling and coursing among
+the affrighted herd, and launching their arrows with unerring aim. In
+the midst of the apparent confusion, they selected their victims with
+perfect judgment, generally aiming at the fattest of the cows, the flesh
+of the bull being nearly worthless, at this season of the year. In a few
+minutes, each of the hunters had crippled three or four cows. A single
+shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the animal, once maimed, was
+left to be completely dispatched at the end of the chase. Frequently, a
+cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In one instance, Captain
+Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely through the body of
+a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The bulls, however, are
+not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the hunter several
+arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and chasing them
+furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still sticking in
+their flesh.
+
+The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to
+dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the
+carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the
+choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters’
+feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified,
+by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor.
+
+Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed
+to be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they
+crammed themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the
+supper at an end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their
+mighty deeds, and the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet.
+Warming with the theme, and inflating themselves with their own
+eulogies, these magnanimous heroes of the trencher would start up,
+advance a short distance beyond the light of the fire, and apostrophize
+most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as though they had been within
+hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting, and slapping their
+breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would vociferate all their
+exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had drenched their towns in
+tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had inflicted, the warriors
+they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in triumph. Then, having
+said everything that could stir a man’s spleen or pique his valor, they
+would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the Bannacks were few
+in number, to come and take their revenge--receiving no reply to
+this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of sneers and
+insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons, that
+dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and
+rhodomontade in which the “red men” are prone to indulge in their
+vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are
+vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and
+to sound their own trumpet.
+
+Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack
+braves gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their
+ruffled feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a
+single guard over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at
+their word, but few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any
+further boasting.
+
+On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of
+buffalo meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing,
+were in fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of
+almost everything that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain
+concluded, the Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated,
+they said, at the mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his
+companions shaped their course toward Snake River.
+
+Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous,
+but not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the
+horses was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from
+the saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were
+extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely
+drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While
+they were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived
+an Indian scout cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a
+neighboring hill. The moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared
+behind the hill. From his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville
+suspected him to be a scout from the Blackfeet camp, and that he had
+gone to report what he had seen to his companions. It would not do
+to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the kindling of the fire was
+abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in dripping condition, and the
+little band pushed forward directly into the plain, going at a smart
+pace, until they had gained a considerable distance from the place of
+supposed danger. Here encamping for the night, in the midst of abundance
+of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for their horses, they
+kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp comrade, and then
+proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps and ribs, and
+other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a hearty
+repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they
+stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry
+canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and
+well-fed mountaineers.
+
+They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident
+worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the
+party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie,
+and deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to
+discover by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that
+the trappers had left them; at length, after much wandering and
+investigating, they came upon the regular trail of the hunting party,
+which led into the mountains, and following it up briskly, came about
+two o’clock in the afternoon of the 20th, upon the encampment of
+Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, in the bosom of a mountain
+valley.
+
+It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters
+of themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain
+Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July,
+preferring to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River,
+where they expected to find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous
+neighborhood. Their hunt had not been very successful. They had
+penetrated the great range of mountains among which some of the upper
+branches of Salmon River take their rise, but had become so entangled
+among immense and almost impassable barricades of fallen pines, and so
+impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great part of their season had
+been wasted among these mountains. At one time, they had made their way
+through them, and reached the Boisee River; but meeting with a band of
+Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended hostilities, they had again
+taken shelter among the mountains, where they were found by Captain
+Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment, the captain had the
+good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers of the mountains,
+emphatically called “les dignes de pitie,” or Poordevil Indians. These,
+however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had with them
+a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep. These,
+Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and sent
+them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy to
+all their pitiful tribe.
+
+Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain
+Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out
+to rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might
+all go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered
+many heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to
+impede his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party,
+encamped at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt
+with the Bannacks.
+
+That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were
+just then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever,
+celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their
+braves being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet
+moving, as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks
+immediately posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through
+which the enemy must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst
+of it, attacked them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden
+panic, threw off their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their
+warriors dead on the spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils;
+but their greatest prize was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they
+bore off in triumph to their village, where it had ever since been an
+object of the greatest exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated
+upon a pole in the centre of the village, where the warriors had
+celebrated the scalp dance round it, with war feasts, war songs, and
+warlike harangues. It had then been given up to the women and boys; who
+had paraded it up and down the village with shouts and chants and antic
+dances; occasionally saluting it with all kinds of taunts, invectives,
+and revilings.
+
+The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the
+character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed,
+their conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of
+inconsistencies; at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless
+of danger; at another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand
+these apparent incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare.
+A war party, however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight,
+bring back a cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over
+the glory of their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce
+and reckless in general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and
+the chiefs are checked in their boldest undertakings by the fear of
+sacrificing their warriors.
+
+This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages,
+says Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades,
+though they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious
+victory, will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning
+home with dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and
+wait until the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to
+mingle again with their people.
+
+
+
+
+29.
+
+     Winter camp at the Portneuf--Fine springs--The Bannack
+     Indians--Their honesty--Captain--Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition--Christmas--The American--Falls--Wild scenery--
+     Fishing Falls--Snake Indians--Scenery on the Bruneau--View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain--Powder River--
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers--Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs--Vanity at its last shift
+
+IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville
+had drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid
+all annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however,
+he had been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the
+flat land, where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing
+better for his horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the
+contrary, were encamped among fine springs of water, where there was
+grass in abundance. Some of these springs gush out of the earth in
+sufficient quantity to turn a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear
+as crystal, and full of trout of a large size, which may be seen darting
+about the transparent water.
+
+Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in
+large quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the
+continued coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
+
+By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and
+the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good
+will. A few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their
+friends; nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and
+good faith of their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and
+the want of fodder obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam
+in quest of sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the
+Bannacks, they were immediately brought back. It must be confessed,
+however, that if the stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in
+vigorous plight and good condition, though he was equally sure to be
+returned by the honest Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of
+several days, and in a very gaunt and jaded state; and always with the
+remark that they had found him a long way off. The uncharitable were apt
+to surmise that he had, in the interim, been well used up in a
+buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to Indian morality in the matter of
+horseflesh, considered it a singular evidence of honesty that he should
+be brought back at all.
+
+Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that
+his people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as
+they were valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter
+unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition
+of great extent and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson’s
+Bay establishments on the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself
+acquainted with the country and the Indian tribes; it being one part of
+his scheme to establish a trading post somewhere on the lower part of
+the river, so as to participate in the trade lost to the United States
+by the capture of Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him
+through the Snake River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the
+scenes of so much hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their
+Astorian bands, who first explored it, and he would have to pass through
+it in the same frightful season, the depth of winter.
+
+The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the
+adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his
+journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form,
+and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He
+proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter
+encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed,
+he mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three
+comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their
+Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one,
+after which they resumed their journey.
+
+They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow
+had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed
+and frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route
+lay to the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were
+several days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the
+river, for a considerable distance, both above and below the falls,
+have a volcanic character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon
+another; the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling
+through narrow channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges
+of basaltic columns.
+
+Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable
+stream, called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four
+miles wide, where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and
+dryness of the climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream
+there is a small mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite,
+in small blocks, is likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white
+sandstone. From this river, the travellers had a prospect of the snowy
+heights of the Salmon River Mountains to the north; the nearest, at
+least fifty miles distant.
+
+In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept
+several miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary
+streams; though he often found the open country so encumbered by
+volcanic rocks, as to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he
+approached Snake River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with
+steep, perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days’ travel
+across a level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him
+with astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the
+river was walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty
+feet high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and
+fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and
+whirling current. Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade
+above forty feet in height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume
+of spray that hung in the air like a silver mist. These are called
+by some the Fishing Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense
+quantities. They cannot get by these falls.
+
+After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise,
+descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in
+the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the
+only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream.
+
+The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their
+travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were
+foot tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their
+progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region;
+a timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life.
+Their dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed
+of strips of rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their
+shoulders, in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their
+weapons were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which
+abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and
+constructed of branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to
+be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small
+inclosures of wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them
+a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of these tenements were
+occasionally grouped together in some wild and striking situation, and
+had a picturesque effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number
+to form a small hamlet. From these people, Captain Bonneville’s party
+frequently purchased salmon, dried in an admirable manner, as were
+likewise the roes. This seemed to be their prime article of food; but
+they were extremely anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange.
+
+The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long
+inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were
+enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the
+river.
+
+Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery
+of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character.
+The rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small
+streams come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines:
+one of a considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within
+twenty-five feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal
+line for about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to
+the rocky bank of the river.
+
+In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is
+upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water.
+Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other
+times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild
+and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of
+plashing waters.
+
+Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness
+and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is
+particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a
+valley, extending upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it
+on a sudden, in traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw
+a stone across from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand
+feet deep: so that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream.
+Basaltic rocks rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get
+from the plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The
+current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of
+this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in
+a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor.
+
+We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains
+and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before
+us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this
+summit, the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops
+of the hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and
+appear to have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys
+to be formed by the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the
+hills. Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and
+brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them. All
+these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of
+the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either absorbed by their
+thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the lava, or swallowed up in
+gulfs and chasms.
+
+On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River;
+much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He
+struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he
+found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river,
+and in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance
+in considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity
+respecting the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed
+to the bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the
+strangers, and watching every movement. These are of that branch of
+the great Snake tribe called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their
+subsisting, in a great measure, on the roots of the earth; though they
+likewise take fish in great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They
+are, in general, very poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life,
+and extremely indolent: but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in
+many respects, from the other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies;
+who possess horses, are more roving and adventurous, and hunt the
+buffalo.
+
+On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth
+of Powder River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these
+Diggers, as they are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The
+women and children kept at a distance, perched among the rocks and
+cliffs; their eager curiosity being somewhat dashed with fear. From
+their elevated posts, they scrutinized the strangers with the most
+intense earnestness; regarding them with almost as much awe as if they
+had been beings of a supernatural order.
+
+The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned
+Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity.
+Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands
+on underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive
+neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before
+they encamped for the night.
+
+The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very
+little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The
+plains were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were,
+about the same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they
+resembled the isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky
+Mountains; especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas.
+
+The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake
+River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It
+should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the
+Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending
+on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by
+unbroken ridges of mountains.
+
+The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder
+River, though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a
+lesson, however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which
+they subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings.
+They frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted
+from the bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying
+it always lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would
+gather together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an
+instant produce a cheering blaze.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these
+Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. “They
+live,” says he, “without any further protection from the inclemency
+of the season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high,
+composed of sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape
+of a half moon.” Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a
+large suite of half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well
+as in civilized life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
+
+These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs
+of cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of
+the neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel
+kind of chase they acquitted themselves with some credit.
+
+Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping
+the antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which
+this is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared,
+says Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into
+the thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities,
+construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a
+hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game.
+This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait
+patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
+spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women
+give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them
+enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round
+the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way
+the hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a
+continued pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor
+antelopes, in the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men
+enter and dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered
+the inclosure. The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an
+animal so fleet and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life,
+should range round and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to
+overleap the low barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to
+be the fact; and such their only mode of hunting the antelope.
+
+Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their
+habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the
+Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture
+good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found
+in their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of
+basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid
+of a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on
+which they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities
+of seed, of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the
+plants into wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected
+is winnowed and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of
+meal or flour; which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable
+paste or gruel.
+
+Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay
+up a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they
+were ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in
+Indian life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife,
+or a fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and
+starvation; and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers
+threw away after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick
+them with the greatest avidity.
+
+The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these
+Root Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn
+condition. “They were destitute,” says he, “of the necessary covering
+to protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most
+unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the
+use of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a
+thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead.”
+
+What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity!
+Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to
+arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a
+mirror. It was a “great medicine,” in their eyes. The sight of one was
+sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and
+delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest
+fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this
+simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall
+close our remarks on the Root Diggers.
+
+
+
+
+30.
+
+     Temperature of the climate--Root Diggers on horseback--An
+     Indian guide--Mountain prospects--The Grand Rond--
+     Difficulties on Snake River--A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains--Sufferings from hunger--Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley--The exhausted traveller
+
+THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much
+milder than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper
+plains, however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are
+subject in winter to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty
+“sierras,” crowned with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and
+streaks of intense cold This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and
+his companions in their progress westward. At the time when they left
+the Bannacks Snake River was frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice
+became broken and floating; it gradually disappeared, and the weather
+became warm and pleasant, as they approached a tributary stream called
+the Little Wyer; and the soil, which was generally of a watery clay,
+with occasional intervals of sand, was soft to the tread of the horses.
+After a time, however, the mountains approached and flanked the
+river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and the current was once more
+icebound.
+
+Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently
+rising in the world, for they had “horse to ride and weapon to wear,”
+ and were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that
+Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee
+River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided
+as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these
+they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits
+[sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that
+tribe their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their
+manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings;
+for Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their
+hands, and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable
+custom. From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish,
+and an excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had
+become too weak for the journey.
+
+The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it
+is true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on
+merrily, considering themselves well provided for the journey, which
+could not be of much longer duration.
+
+They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which
+flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives
+that the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised
+them to keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the
+snow. Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the
+river, and to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as
+had been predicted, so that their horses once more had the benefit of
+tolerable pasturage. Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging
+cheerily in the advance. He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer
+and a beaver; but at night found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted
+the occupant, upon which, with the addition of a fish given him by the
+travellers, he made a hearty supper, and retired to rest, filled with
+good cheer and good humor.
+
+The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the
+river, leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The
+river was sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The
+Digger kept on ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river
+in pursuit of game, until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he
+stole off with him, without the ceremony of leave-taking.
+
+Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some
+Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different
+from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce
+language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These
+Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small
+quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides.
+
+Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which
+they ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was
+grand but disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks
+of Immahah, rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they
+stood: on the other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the
+river, dashing along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices,
+until lost in a distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage
+landscape.
+
+They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious
+eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to
+discover some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them
+to give up the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night.
+Moving briskly forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of
+deep snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers
+as the “Grand Rond,” which they found entirely free from snow.
+
+This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and
+five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace,
+or Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in
+mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when
+the elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by
+the snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come
+to it in the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces
+immense quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is
+tinted by its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a
+cloud.
+
+After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning
+scaled the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route
+than that upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much
+reconnoitring, determined to make their way once more to the river, and
+to travel upon the ice when the banks should prove impassable.
+
+On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake
+River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice.
+A narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of
+bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time,
+they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length
+came to where the river forced its way into the heart of the
+mountains, winding between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose
+perpendicularly from the water’s edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy
+grandeur. Here difficulties of all kinds beset their path. The snow was
+from two to three feet deep, but soft and yielding, so that the horses
+had no foothold, but kept plunging forward, straining themselves by
+perpetual efforts. Sometimes the crags and promontories forced them upon
+the narrow riband of ice that bordered the shore; sometimes they had to
+scramble over vast masses of rock which had tumbled from the impending
+precipices; sometimes they had to cross the stream upon the hazardous
+bridges of ice and snow, sinking to the knee at every step; sometimes
+they had to scale slippery acclivities, and to pass along narrow
+cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a shouldering wall of rock on one
+side, a yawning precipice on the other, where a single false step would
+have been fatal. In a lower and less dangerous pass, two of their horses
+actually fell into the river; one was saved with much difficulty, but
+the boldness of the shore prevented their rescuing the other, and he was
+swept away by the rapid current.
+
+In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and
+dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to
+a mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further
+progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to
+cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit,
+found their path closed by insurmountable barriers.
+
+Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged
+mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it.
+They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep;
+and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing,
+to aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as
+the poor animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy
+declivities. Thus, after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant
+toil, amidst the wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to
+reach the camping ground, from which they had started in the morning,
+and for the first time in the course of their rugged and perilous
+expedition, felt their hearts quailing under their multiplied hardships.
+
+A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night’s sleep, put
+them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as
+to their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked
+a small ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was
+determined to scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which
+must lie beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained.
+To kill their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of
+the hides, and, in these, commit themselves to the stream--a measure
+hazardous in the extreme.
+
+A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep
+and cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling
+it was by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed
+a succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they
+wrought their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag
+course, climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after
+them; which scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then
+dislodging some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would
+roll down the mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It
+was some time after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the
+summit of the mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds,
+which swept this naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley
+beneath, so that the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the
+dry grass which remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the
+extreme, were fain to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their
+journey was likely to be prolonged much beyond the anticipated term.
+
+In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at
+a great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the
+mountain. It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height,
+running parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to
+lofty peaks, but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines.
+This, in fact, was a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the
+first adventurers to Astoria experienced such hardships.
+
+We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this
+tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed
+themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had
+they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only
+to the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend
+the southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow,
+so as to render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and
+horses continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow
+lay in such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down
+which the horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was
+impeded by tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in
+every direction.
+
+In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out.
+For three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could
+scarcely drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about
+to give out from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him.
+Husbanding this miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three
+days subsisted upon the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the
+meat, it was packed and preserved as long as they could do without it,
+not knowing how long they might remain bewildered in these desolate
+regions.
+
+One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and
+to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime,
+the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the
+scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately
+below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling;
+that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them
+in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it
+without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the
+mountain ridge to the left.
+
+Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps;
+and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of
+the severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they
+toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through
+the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit,
+where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side,
+they were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and
+ravines.
+
+Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost
+ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as
+the sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came
+to the brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the
+Immahah stretched out in smiling verdure below them.
+
+The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor,
+they forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain,
+dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them
+to slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they
+reached the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to
+sprout, and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and
+repose, heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which
+they had just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian
+trails along the margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them
+reason to believe that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces
+in the neighborhood, as it was within the accustomed range of that
+pacific and hospitable tribe.
+
+The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and
+they continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their
+steeds would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the
+rest, threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further.
+It was in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and
+his replies only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions,
+therefore, encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched
+about for roots with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then
+made a starveling repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past
+dangers and troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all
+were now at an end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the
+morrow would bring them into plentiful quarters.
+
+
+
+
+31.
+
+     Progress in the valley--An Indian cavalier--The captain
+     falls into a lethargy--A Nez-Perce patriarch--Hospitable
+     treatment--The bald head--Bargaining--Value of an old plaid
+     cloak--The family horse--The cost of an Indian present
+
+A TRANQUIL NIGHT’S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down
+traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set
+forward on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within
+reach of succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that
+they advanced but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they
+should almost have lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th
+of February) fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst
+of winter, exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for
+the last twenty days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate
+labyrinths of the snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy
+precipices, and nearly starved with cold and hunger.
+
+All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without
+seeing a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about
+noon, they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly
+toward them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed,
+came to a halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great
+earnestness, seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made
+signs of peace, and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him
+to approach. He remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having
+satisfied himself that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them.
+He was a fine, haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted
+on a high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was
+evident that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe.
+His whole deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt,
+perhaps, his temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit
+of his steed, to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their
+half-starved horses. Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave
+them his hand, and, in the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp,
+which was only a few miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and
+plenty of horses, and would cheerfully share his good things with them.
+
+His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a
+moment, to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then,
+wheeling round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon
+out of sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a
+snail’s pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after
+the other. Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and
+singular change of feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his
+party, and of providing against every emergency, had kept his mind upon
+the stretch, and his whole system braced and excited. In no one instance
+had he flagged in spirit, or felt disposed to succumb. Now, however,
+that all danger was over, and the march of a few miles would bring them
+to repose and abundance, his energies suddenly deserted him; and every
+faculty, mental and physical, was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded
+two miles from the point where he had had the interview with the Nez
+Perce chief, when he threw himself upon the earth, without the power
+or will to move a muscle, or exert a thought, and sank almost instantly
+into a profound and dreamless sleep. His companions again came to a
+halt, and encamped beside him, and there they passed the night.
+
+The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy
+sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress.
+They had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce
+tribe came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them
+to their camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into
+their languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of
+the Nez Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together,
+under the patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He
+received them with the hospitality of the golden age, and with something
+of the same kind of fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them
+welcome, the only repast he set before them consisted of roots. They
+could have wished for something more hearty and substantial; but, for
+want of better, made a voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast
+being over, the best pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a
+most welcome luxury, having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days
+before, among the mountains.
+
+While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to
+the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to
+revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than
+their masters.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet,
+inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper
+Nez Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of
+expression, and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he
+was well known among them, by report, at least, from the constant
+interchange of visits and messages between the two branches of the
+tribe. They at first addressed him by his name; giving him his title of
+captain, with a French accent: but they soon gave him a title of their
+own; which, as usual with Indian titles, had a peculiar signification.
+In the case of the captain, it had somewhat of a whimsical origin.
+
+As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would
+occasionally take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation
+in the surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their
+recumbent posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual
+exclamation of astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a
+phenomenon very surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know
+whether he had been scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity
+from that belligerent infliction. In a little while, he became
+known among them by an Indian name, signifying “the bald chief.” “A
+sobriquet,” observes the captain, “for which I can find no parallel in
+history since the days of ‘Charles the Bald.’”
+
+Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled
+with tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In
+approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond
+anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still
+haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen
+appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight’s fasting, at
+length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged
+some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however,
+were slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited;
+but were ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced
+excellent food. At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of
+attaining the much-coveted gratification.
+
+He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling
+companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the
+snows and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to
+tarnish its primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the
+admiration, and inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws,
+to an extravagant degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville,
+to convert this rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired.
+There was a momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and
+projected indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was
+made, he says, with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and
+sentiment might have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was
+cut into numerous strips. “Of these,” continues he, “with the newly
+developed talent of a man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a
+la Turque, and fanciful head-gears of divers conformations. These,
+judiciously distributed among such of the womenkind as seemed of most
+consequence and interest in the eyes of the patres conscripti, brought
+us, in a little while, abundance of dried salmon and deers’ hearts; on
+which we made a sumptuous supper. Another, and a more satisfactory
+smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet slumbers answering the peaceful
+invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in that delicious rest, which is
+only won by toil and travail.” As to Captain Bonneville, he slept in
+the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had evidently conceived a most
+disinterested affection for him; as was shown on the following morning.
+The travellers, invigorated by a good supper, and “fresh from the bath
+of repose,” were about to resume their journey, when this affectionate
+old chief took the captain aside, to let him know how much he loved him.
+As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give him a fine horse,
+which would go further than words, and put his good will beyond all
+question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a beautiful young
+horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting, to the place.
+Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of friendship; but
+his experience in what is proverbially called “Indian giving,” made him
+aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own part, to prove that
+his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed a handsome
+rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent heart was
+evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign of
+amity.
+
+Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship,
+the captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when
+the affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to
+him a whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have
+passed for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. “This,” said he, “is
+my wife; she is a good wife--I love her very much.--She loves the
+horse--she loves him a great deal--she will cry very much at losing
+him.--I do not know how I shall comfort her--and that makes my heart
+very sore.”
+
+What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old
+squaw, and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain
+lecture? He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the
+patriarch’s better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to
+put personal vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity
+extinct? The moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering
+and whining of the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed
+the precious baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of
+Endor, went off with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she
+had been a perfect Semiramis.
+
+The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was
+in the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward,
+and presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky
+look. “This,” said the venerable chief, “is my son: he is very good; a
+great horseman--he always took care of this very fine horse--he brought
+him up from a colt, and made him what he is.--He is very fond of this
+fine horse--he loves him like a brother--his heart will be very heavy
+when this fine horse leaves the camp.”
+
+What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable
+pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse?
+He bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender
+stores. No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young
+hopeful, than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing
+in his hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her
+ear-bobs.
+
+The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the
+affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and,
+while he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the
+rifle in the other. “This rifle,” said he, “shall be my great medicine.
+I will hug it to my heart--I will always love it, for the sake of my
+good friend, the bald-headed chief.--But a rifle, by itself, is dumb--I
+cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it
+out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the
+meat home to my hungry family, I would say--This was killed by the
+rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine
+horse.”
+
+There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished
+the coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs
+to his very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to
+get out of all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the
+affectionate old patriarch and his insinuating family.
+
+
+
+
+32.
+
+     Nez-Perce camp--A chief with a hard name--The Big Hearts of
+     the East--Hospitable treatment--The Indian guides--
+     Mysterious councils--The loquacious chief--Indian tomb--
+     Grand Indian reception--An Indian feast--Town-criers--
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces--The captain’s attempt at
+     healing.
+
+FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three
+companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay
+over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On
+the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as
+they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals,
+they descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small
+encampment of Nez Perces.
+
+The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men
+approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to
+encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief
+named Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict
+oftener than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named
+chieftain welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same
+hospitality and loving kindness that he had experienced from his
+predecessor. He told the captain he had often heard of the Americans
+and their generous deeds, and that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez
+Perces) had always spoken of them as the Big-hearted whites of the East,
+the very good friends of the Nez Perces.
+
+Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of
+this magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be
+involved in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened,
+therefore, to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how
+little there was to be expected from him.
+
+He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the
+Upper Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their
+arms around them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had
+received such good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins,
+the Lower Nez Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as
+friends and brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded
+a mule with presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez
+Perces; but, unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the
+snowy mountains; and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into
+Snake River, and been swept away by the rapid current. That instead,
+therefore, of arriving among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light
+hearts and full hands, they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and
+instead of making them presents, must depend upon them even for food.
+“But,” concluded he, “we are going to the white men’s fort on the
+Wallah-Wallah, and will soon return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce
+friends like the true Big Hearts of the East.”
+
+Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any
+effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings
+which, according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce
+tribe, he certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on
+learning the destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he
+urged the captain to remain with them until the following day, when he
+would accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all
+his people. In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for
+travelling provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not
+as an article of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were
+hungry and in need of food.
+
+Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement.
+The carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain
+insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the
+chieftain’s family.
+
+At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed
+their journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide.
+Their route was over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were
+slippery with ice and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded,
+that they could scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their
+foothold on the frozen declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey,
+the old chief and the guide were unremitting in their good offices,
+and continually on the alert to select the best roads, and assist them
+through all difficulties. Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be
+dependent on their Indian friends for almost every thing, for they had
+lost their tobacco and pipes, those great comforts of the trapper, and
+had but a few charges of powder left, which it was necessary to husband
+for the purpose of lighting their fires.
+
+In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations
+with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some
+mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville
+could not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual
+sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from
+which the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he
+attached a little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he
+suffered him to spin out his petty plans unmolested.
+
+In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy
+counsellor, the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the
+guide mounted his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the
+chief resumed his seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a
+pleasing but mystic reverie.
+
+The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the
+Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the
+guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference
+was held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more
+inflated than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh
+trails, and various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there
+must be a considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as
+his worthy companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as
+it appeared to be in some way connected with his secret operations,
+he asked no questions, but patiently awaited the development of his
+mystery.
+
+As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were
+bathing in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a
+halt, and had a long conversation with them, in the course of which he
+repeated to them the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related
+to him. In fact, he seems to have been a very sociable, communicative
+old man; by no means afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged
+upon the Indians. On the contrary, he was fond of long talks and long
+smokings, and evidently was proud of his new friend, the bald-headed
+chief, and took a pleasure in sounding his praises, and setting forth
+the power and glory of the Big Hearts of the East.
+
+Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing
+friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward
+with the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way,
+however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very
+different occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the
+river stood an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with
+some emotion. “The big heart and the strong arm,” said he, “lie buried
+beneath that sod.”
+
+It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of
+the tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war
+party of Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy
+bore off his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in
+this lonely place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials
+characteristic of their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered
+round the grave and mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief;
+but the women and children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations.
+“For three days,” said the old man, “we performed the solemn dances for
+the dead, and prayed the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy
+in the land of brave warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave
+fifteen of our best and strongest horses, to serve him when he should
+arrive at the happy hunting grounds; and having done all this, we
+returned sorrowfully to our homes.”
+
+While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up,
+and, presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily
+out of sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his
+self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode.
+Turning to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and
+informed him, that behind it was a village governed by a little chief,
+whom he had notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a
+party of the Big Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive
+them in becoming style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to
+salute them with a discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of
+gunpowder that they might return the salute in a manner correspondent to
+his dignity.
+
+They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the
+whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the
+most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the
+whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank
+were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated;
+behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and
+children.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of
+firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted.
+The chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective
+characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each
+filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor.
+Those in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all
+had given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief,
+according to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his
+people advanced whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence
+of the white men, he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they
+would submissively walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an
+inquiring look, he would observe, “he was a bad man,” or something quite
+as concise, and there was an end of the matter.
+
+Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable
+lodge was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept
+constantly supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and
+all their effects were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were
+unsaddled, and turned loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon
+them.
+
+All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or
+council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet,
+was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that
+had tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld
+not merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk,
+and the choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say
+how vigorously they acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how
+unnecessary it was for their hosts to practice the usual cramming
+principle of Indian hospitality.
+
+When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the
+same curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information
+concerning the United States, of which they knew little but what they
+derived through their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is
+almost exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson’s Bay Company.
+Captain Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation,
+and the importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was
+ably seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name,
+who did all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East.
+
+The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and
+evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus
+set forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after
+sentence was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole
+village.
+
+This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the
+Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage
+where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report
+the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this
+kind, viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to
+be contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey
+accurate information to the public mind than those circulated through
+the press. The office of crier is generally filled by some old man,
+who is good for little else. A village has generally several of these
+walking newspapers, as they are termed by the whites, who go about
+proclaiming the news of the day, giving notice of public councils,
+expeditions, dances, feasts, and other ceremonials, and advertising
+anything lost. While Captain Bonneville remained among the Nez Perces,
+if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of similar value, was lost or
+mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the lodge of the chief, and
+proclamation was made by one of their criers, for the owner to come and
+claim his property.
+
+How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering
+tribes of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this
+tribe of Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually
+been among them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable,
+exorbitant in their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain
+Bonneville, on the contrary, who resided much among them, and had
+repeated opportunities of ascertaining their real character, invariably
+speaks of them as kind and hospitable, scrupulously honest, and
+remarkable, above all other Indians that he had met with, for a strong
+feeling of religion. In fact, so enthusiastic is he in their praise,
+that he pronounces them, all ignorant and barbarous as they are by their
+condition, one of the purest hearted people on the face of the earth.
+
+Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among
+the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and
+gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been
+long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort
+of the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation
+thus accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As
+he had arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something
+of a physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge
+in the healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently
+successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that
+report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that
+effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at
+relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg
+in the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic
+affection. This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the
+old woman with a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to
+relieve her, at the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his
+return; with which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he
+presented the captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the
+journey: a medical fee which was thankfully accepted.
+
+While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an
+owner for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big
+Wyer. The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen
+from him some time previous, by some unknown thief. “However,” said the
+considerate savage, “you got him in fair trade--you are more in want
+of horses than I am: keep him; he is yours--he is a good horse; use him
+well.”
+
+Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity,
+which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain
+Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more
+impressed with the general excellence of their character.
+
+
+
+
+33.
+
+     Scenery of the Way-lee-way--A substitute for tobacco--
+     Sublime scenery of--Snake River--The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin--A Nez-Perce meeting--A stolen skin--The
+     scapegoat dog--Mysterious conferences--The little chief--His
+     hospitality--The captain’s account of the United States--His
+     healing skill
+
+IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the
+same Nez Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important
+in choosing the routes and resting places. He also continued to be
+accompanied by the worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed
+bent upon doing the honors of the country, and introducing him to every
+branch of his tribe. The Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain
+Bonneville and his companions were now travelling, is a considerable
+stream winding through a succession of bold and beautiful scenes.
+Sometimes the landscape towered into bold and mountainous heights that
+partook of sublimity; at other times, it stretched along the water side
+in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful undulating valleys.
+
+Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez
+Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who,
+generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures;
+a curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies
+of the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be
+spokesman of the party.
+
+The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
+excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his
+stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale
+his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his
+pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus
+manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long
+colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.
+
+If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its
+mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more
+reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At
+times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like
+gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning
+chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes
+the river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it
+roared along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks
+were piled in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another
+place, they were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with
+green-award. The whole of this wild and varied scenery was dominated
+by immense mountains rearing their distant peaks into the clouds. “The
+grandeur and originality of the views, presented on every side,” says
+Captain Bonneville, “beggar both the pencil and the pen. Nothing we had
+ever gazed upon in any other region could for a moment compare in wild
+majesty and impressive sternness, with the series of scenes which
+here at every turn astonished our senses, and filled us with awe and
+delight.”
+
+Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the
+accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the
+memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake
+River must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery
+of all the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky
+Mountains, to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward
+of six hundred miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a
+volcanic region, amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the
+traces of ancient fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava
+and sandy deserts, penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken
+into romantic and often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal
+snows; and at other times, careers through green and smiling meadows,
+and wide landscapes of Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity,
+however, appear to be its prevailing characteristics.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a
+considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief
+halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn
+their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from
+a group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was
+quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a
+light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot
+across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and
+frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn.
+The old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented
+Captain Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to
+say, was no less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The
+latter evinced the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers,
+whence they came whither they were going, the object of their journey,
+and the adventures they had experienced. All these, of course, were
+ample and eloquently set forth by the communicative old chief. To all
+his grandiloquent account of the bald-headed chief and his countrymen,
+the Big Hearts of the East, his cousin listened with great attention,
+and replied in the customary style of Indian welcome. He then desired
+the party to await his return, and, springing into his canoe, darted
+across the river. In a little while he returned, bringing a most
+welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of provisions for the road,
+declaring his intention of accompanying the party. Having no horse, he
+mounted behind one of the men, observing that he should procure a steed
+for himself on the following day.
+
+They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many
+miles beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom
+Captain Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence
+among the Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In
+this neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them
+with a profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That
+night they put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by
+several warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old
+chief and his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white
+men. The heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at
+thus being surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with
+more spirit and vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect
+harmony and good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the
+visitors took their leave and recrossed the river.
+
+After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez
+Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to
+throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social
+and harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain’s men,
+who happened to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of
+collecting curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the
+eyes of men conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among
+the visitors from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other,
+examined it with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great
+medicine.
+
+In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off,
+the precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it
+was nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been
+purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river.
+
+The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency
+of their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over
+and answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call
+with all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea
+of their being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted
+nation. All were at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the
+invaluable skin, when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the
+water fell upon an unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He
+was a gallows-looking dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who,
+take them in the mass, are little better than a generation of vipers. Be
+that as it may, he was instantly accused of having devoured the skin
+in question. A dog accused is generally a dog condemned; and a dog
+condemned is generally a dog executed. So was it in the present
+instance. The unfortunate cur was arraigned; his thievish looks
+substantiated his guilt, and he was condemned by his judges from across
+the river to be hanged. In vain the Indians of the hut, with whom he was
+a great favorite, interceded in his behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville
+and his comrades petitioned that his life might be spared. His judges
+were inexorable. He was doubly guilty: first, in having robbed their
+good friends, the Big Hearts of the East; secondly, in having brought
+a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe. He was, accordingly,
+swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death more certain.
+The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post mortem
+examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his
+delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a
+shadow of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all
+present, during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the
+intestines rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned,
+not a particle of the skin was to be found--the dog had been unjustly
+executed!
+
+A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from
+across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them
+to the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the
+utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their
+lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin
+in a dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was
+entirely out of the question.
+
+The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the
+captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits
+of the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time
+completely dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just
+occurred. He rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give
+way to a burst of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head
+and a toss of the hand toward the opposite shore--“bad men, very bad
+men across the river”; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy
+cousin, Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of
+acquiescence, equivalent to an amen.
+
+After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and
+he fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin,
+which ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to
+his horse, dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were
+drawing near to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by
+an appellation of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as
+the great chief. The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their
+approach; a herald appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to
+enable them to respond to the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their
+approach to the village, similar to that which had occurred at the
+village of the little chief. The whole population appeared in the
+field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with the customary regard to rank and
+dignity. Then came on the firing of salutes, and the shaking of hands,
+in which last ceremonial every individual, man, woman, and child,
+participated; for the Indians have an idea that it is as indispensable
+an overture of friendship among the whites as smoking of the pipe is
+among the red men. The travellers were next ushered to the banquet,
+where all the choicest viands that the village could furnish, were
+served up in rich profusion. They were afterwards entertained by feats
+of agility and horseraces; indeed, their visit to the village seemed the
+signal for complete festivity. In the meantime, a skin lodge had been
+spread for their accommodation, their horses and baggage were taken care
+of, and wood and water supplied in abundance. At night, therefore, they
+retired to their quarters, to enjoy, as they supposed, the repose of
+which they stood in need. No such thing, however, was in store for them.
+A crowd of visitors awaited their appearance, all eager for a smoke and
+a talk. The pipe was immediately lighted, and constantly replenished
+and kept alive until the night was far advanced. As usual, the utmost
+eagerness was evinced by the guests to learn everything within the scope
+of their comprehension respecting the Americans, for whom they professed
+the most fraternal regard. The captain, in his replies, made use of
+familiar illustrations, calculated to strike their minds, and impress
+them with such an idea of the might of his nation, as would induce them
+to treat with kindness and respect all stragglers that might fall in
+their path. To their inquiries as to the numbers of the people of the
+United States, he assured them that they were as countless as the blades
+of grass in the prairies, and that, great as Snake River was, if they
+were all encamped upon its banks, they would drink it dry in a single
+day. To these and similar statistics, they listened with profound
+attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was, indeed, a striking
+scene: the captain, with his hunter’s dress and bald head in the midst,
+holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like so many statues,
+the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular figures, all
+fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a question
+propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a movement
+of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and delight.
+
+The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to
+this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to
+exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with
+pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation.
+The captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain.
+Her father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and
+assured the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the
+Americans near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement.
+His kind heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl,
+and his sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about
+sixteen years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature.
+The only difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her
+malady, and that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After
+considering and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when
+in a maze of vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his
+directions, the girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used
+by the Nez Perces, where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave
+her a dose of gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to
+be wrapped in buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and
+blankets. The remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain,
+though extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a
+bowl of colt’s head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on
+simple diet.
+
+The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the
+recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a
+long time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the
+captain’s horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that
+the steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses,
+which he presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad
+to see his friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce
+to accompany his guest to the next village, and “to carry his talk”
+ concerning them; and the two parties separated with mutual expressions
+of good will.
+
+The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among
+the Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as
+they call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by
+water poured slowly upon red-hot stones.
+
+On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut’s domains, the travellers left
+the elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which
+has just been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country,
+of such fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the
+captain’s followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared
+that it surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed
+what a delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and
+teeming soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share.
+
+Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a
+chief named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and
+hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued
+a west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better
+wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their
+progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were
+invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after
+leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at
+Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834.
+
+
+
+
+34.
+
+     Fort Wallah-Wallah--Its commander--Indians in its
+     neighborhood--Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement--Religion--Code of laws--Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces--Camash, and other roots--Nez--Perce horses--
+     Preparations for departure--Refusal of supplies--Departure--
+     A laggard and glutton
+
+FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson’s Bay Company,
+situated just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the
+left bank of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated
+merely for defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of
+Captain Bonneville’s arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or
+eight men; and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune,
+an agent of the Hudson’s Bay Company.
+
+The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its
+trade on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of
+the Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth
+of the Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment
+from Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from
+Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of
+the British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they
+have always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders
+themselves.
+
+Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as
+well as by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and
+peltries collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are
+a degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and
+tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed
+Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the
+Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had
+evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their
+peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however,
+the principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The
+same gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed
+with scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to
+a great extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the
+Christian faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft,
+so venial a crime among the Indians, had recently been punished with
+hanging, by sentence of a chief.
+
+There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and
+religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one
+of the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an
+intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty
+years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained
+of their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities.
+The very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the
+prolonged sojourns of Captain Bonneville.
+
+The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and
+other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver,
+elk, deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these
+animals, they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be
+well worth transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among
+these is the camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion,
+and said to be really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root,
+about the size of a walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour;
+together with the jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by
+steaming them in the ground.
+
+In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they
+catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are
+their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed
+of comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally
+clad in deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all,
+they are celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark,
+and then suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These
+horses are principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and
+long-winded. They are brought in great numbers to the establishments of
+the Hudson’s Bay Company, and sold for a mere trifle.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who,
+if not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the
+gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They
+invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post
+might be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would
+trade with Americans, in preference to any other people.
+
+Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this
+neighborhood, to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect
+information, and establish connections that might be advantageous in
+the way of trade. The delays, however, which he had experienced on his
+journey, obliged him to shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as
+possible, so as to reach the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed
+time. He had seen enough to convince him that an American trade might
+be carried on with advantage in this quarter; and he determined soon to
+return with a stronger party, more completely fitted for the purpose.
+
+As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to
+purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference
+between being treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy
+superintendent, who had extended to him all the genial rites of
+hospitality, now suddenly assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and
+observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him, personally,
+he felt bound by his duty to the Hudson’s Bay Company, to do nothing
+which should facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among
+the Indians in that part of the country. He endeavored to dissuade
+Captain Bonneville from returning through the Blue Mountains; assuring
+him it would be extremely difficult and dangerous, if not impracticable,
+at this season of the year; and advised him to accompany Mr. Payette,
+a leader of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who was about to depart with a
+number of men, by a more circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies
+to the company’s agent, resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain
+Bonneville, however, piqued at his having refused to furnish him with
+supplies, and doubting the sincerity of his advice, determined to return
+by the more direct route through the mountains; though varying his
+course, in some respects, from that by which he had come, in consequence
+of information gathered among the neighboring Indians.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions,
+accompanied by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the
+early part of their course, they touched again at several of the Nez
+Perce villages, where they had experienced such kind treatment on their
+way down. They were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was
+done to cheer them on their journey.
+
+On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce,
+whose society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and
+good will they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the
+little party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a
+huge feeder. His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all
+labor, and availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march,
+he always lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking
+a way through all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily
+jogging along the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the
+evening encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for
+the horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the
+wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing
+away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of
+gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper.
+
+When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He
+no longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but
+distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor
+and duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his
+competitors--albeit, experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never
+had they witnessed such power of mastication, and such marvellous
+capacity of stomach, as in this native and uncultivated gastronome.
+Having, by repeated and prolonged assaults, at length completely
+gorged himself, he would wrap himself up and lie with the torpor of an
+anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the next repast.
+
+The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of
+surprise and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too
+serious for a joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he
+was regarded askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to
+waste the substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations
+they were under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest;
+but he proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these
+obligations, by eating a receipt in full.
+
+
+
+
+35.
+
+     The uninvited guest--Free and easy manners--Salutary jokes--
+     A prodigal son--Exit of the glutton--A sudden change in
+     fortune--Danger of a visit to poor relations--Plucking of a
+     prosperous man--A vagabond toilet--A substitute for the very
+     fine horse--Hard travelling--The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt--A beggar on horseback--A catastrophe--Exit
+     of the merry vagabond
+
+As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the
+hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty
+supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest.
+He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows,
+and had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing
+with an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the
+ground, and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their
+mess, helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left
+in the liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran
+dinner hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more
+knowingly. The travellers were at first completely taken by surprise,
+and could not but admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite
+made himself at home among them. While they stared he went on, making
+the most of the good cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted;
+and was soon elbow deep in “pot luck,” and greased from the tip of his
+nose to the back of his ears.
+
+As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed
+at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his
+tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish
+for such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the
+“provant” upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited
+him to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess.
+
+He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on
+eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole
+countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his
+repast, his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who,
+as usual, was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the
+eye showed either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his
+characteristics. He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries;
+and cracked off two or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt
+to prick up his ears, and delighted all the company. From this time, the
+uninvited guest was taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished;
+his careless, free and easy air, to be considered singularly amusing;
+and in the end, he was pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest
+companions and most entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the
+wilderness.
+
+Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was
+the simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention
+of keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no
+objection; and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the
+carcass of the buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this
+time, he had so completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by
+his first appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the
+Nez Perce guide undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next
+morning, at break of day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the
+hills, nor was anything more seen of him until a few minutes after the
+party had encamped for the evening, when he again made his appearance,
+in his usual frank, careless manner, and threw down the carcass of
+another noble deer, which he had borne on his back for a considerable
+distance.
+
+This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative
+disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of
+his history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village;
+living a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and
+imperative commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled
+from the village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had
+betaken himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a
+careless, haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors;
+heedless of the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present;
+and fearing no lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the
+chase, and a fair hunting ground.
+
+Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his
+eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville
+fitted him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon
+became quite attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal
+services he performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that
+hitherto oppressed the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had
+seemed so perfectly insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by
+which the travellers had endeavored to elbow him out of their society,
+could not withstand the good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp
+wit of She-wee-she. He evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat
+blinking like an owl in daylight, when pestered by the flouts and
+peckings of mischievous birds. At length his place was found vacant at
+meal-time; no one knew when he went off, or whither he had gone, but he
+was seen no more, and the vast surplus that remained when the repast was
+over, showed what a mighty gormandizer had departed.
+
+Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily.
+She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always
+successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or
+on the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of
+his countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in
+good-humor.
+
+In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the
+Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she
+took a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of
+worldly prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly
+departed in the morning, arrayed in hunter’s style, and well appointed
+with everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the
+elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that
+he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about
+to give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what
+a change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in
+the evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail
+between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was
+born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a
+fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed
+it to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they
+recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom
+they had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather,
+they could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and
+repeated peals of laughter.
+
+She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined
+in the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his
+reverse of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however,
+thought proper to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree
+of sternness, the cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most
+natural and self-complacent style imaginable, “that he had been among
+his cousins, who were very poor; they had been delighted to see him;
+still more delighted with his good fortune; they had taken him to their
+arms; admired his equipments; one had begged for this; another for
+that”--in fine, what with the poor devil’s inherent heedlessness, and
+the real generosity of his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded
+in stripping him of all his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig
+leaf with which he had returned to camp.
+
+Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville
+determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a
+salutary lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in
+the neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift
+for himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give
+him any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of
+his lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin;
+whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it,
+so that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South
+American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together,
+under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before
+the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he
+thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet.
+
+A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village
+of Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who
+had made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse.
+The old man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual
+cordiality, and his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing
+grateful recollections of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus
+of friendly gratulation.
+
+As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting
+family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate
+to the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored
+him to the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the
+invaluable gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied
+with a fine two years’ old colt in his stead, a substitution which he
+afterward learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might
+have claimed as a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims
+were made on account of this colt. This donation may be regarded,
+therefore, as a signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found
+that the animal soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party.
+
+While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with
+some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about
+to traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in
+gloomy forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth
+in the passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as
+he proceeded. He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very
+slowly, so as to keep the horses in strength and spirit for the
+hard times they would have to encounter. The captain surrendered the
+regulation of the march entirely to his discretion, and pushed on in the
+advance, amusing himself with hunting, so as generally to kill a deer
+or two in the course of the day, and arriving, before the rest of the
+party, at the spot designated by the guide for the evening’s encampment.
+
+In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide,
+accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn
+by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of
+the mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper
+beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they
+quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high
+good-humor.
+
+So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch’s. The
+second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the
+rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part
+of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard
+exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery,
+the patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to
+follow on at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he
+was on his back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The
+colt, unused to such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing
+and rearing and snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length,
+set off full speed over the most dangerous ground. As the route led
+generally along the steep and craggy sides of the hills, both horse and
+horseman were constantly in danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth
+escape from deadly peril. Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap
+savage. He stuck to the colt like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down
+gullies; whooping and yelling with the wildest glee. Never did beggar
+on horseback display more headlong horsemanship. His companions followed
+him with their eyes, sometimes laughing, sometimes holding in their
+breath at his vagaries, until they saw the colt make a sudden plunge or
+start, and pitch his unlucky rider headlong over a precipice. There was
+a general cry of horror, and all hastened to the spot. They found the
+poor fellow lying among the rocks below, sadly bruised and mangled.
+It was almost a miracle that he had escaped with life. Even in this
+condition, his merry spirit was not entirely quelled, and he summoned up
+a feeble laugh at the alarm and anxiety of those who came to his relief.
+He was extricated from his rocky bed, and a messenger dispatched to
+inform Captain Bonneville of the accident. The latter returned with all
+speed, and encamped the party at the first convenient spot. Here the
+wounded man was stretched upon buffalo skins, and the captain, who
+officiated on all occasions as doctor and surgeon to the party,
+proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one was a long and deep
+gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling for a needle and
+thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound, admonishing the
+patient to submit to the operation with becoming fortitude. His gayety
+was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a forced smile; and,
+at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so piteously, that the
+captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a powerful dose of
+alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed his heart; all
+the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes riveted on the
+wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the countenance,
+that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic curl.
+
+When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and
+administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in
+for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless
+and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would
+be so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the
+party; nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion
+favorable to his wishes.
+
+Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding
+that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting
+to use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several
+efforts to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue
+forward; but at length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that
+“as he had but one leg,” it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the
+mountain.
+
+Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such
+disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each
+one making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse,
+which Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting
+expressions of good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old
+haunts; doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy
+cousins.
+
+
+
+
+36.
+
+     The difficult mountain--A smoke and consultation--The
+     captain’s speech--An icy turnpike--Danger of a false step--
+     Arrival on Snake River--Return to--Portneuf--Meeting of
+     comrades
+
+CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers
+found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in
+quantity, so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged,
+therefore, to beat down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling
+on the icy surface of the stream. At length they reached the place where
+they intended to scale the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to
+the foot, were agreeably surprised to find that the wind had drifted the
+snow from off the side, so that they attained the summit with but little
+difficulty. Here they encamped, with the intention of beating a track
+through the mountains. A short experiment, however, obliged them to give
+up the attempt, the snow lying in vast drifts, often higher than the
+horses’ heads.
+
+Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to
+reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the
+rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about
+nine miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed
+impracticable. He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides,
+proceeded to hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while
+they all smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject
+matter before them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in
+which the two guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly
+cross the snows. They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed
+on foot, and they should take the horses back to the village, where they
+would be well taken care of until Captain Bonneville should send for
+them. They urged this advice with great earnestness; declaring that
+their chief would be extremely angry, and treat them severely, should
+any of the horses of his good friends, the white men, be lost, in
+crossing under their guidance; and that, therefore, it was good they
+should not attempt it.
+
+Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with
+Indian silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them
+in their own style of language.
+
+“My friends,” said he, “I have seen the pass, and have listened to your
+words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your
+way, you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great
+obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell,
+and they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for
+the present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp.”
+
+He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he
+found the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been
+surveying the neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was
+at least a hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused
+fresh spirit in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to
+proceed. About dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now
+suggested itself. This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on
+them, and drag them to the other side of the mountain, thus forming
+a road in the wet snow, which, should it afterward freeze, would be
+sufficiently hard to bear the horses. This plan was promptly put into
+execution; the sleds were constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn
+backward and forward until the road was beaten, when they desisted
+from their fatiguing labor. The night turned out clear and cold, and by
+morning, their road was incrusted with ice sufficiently strong for their
+purpose. They now set out on their icy turnpike, and got on well enough,
+excepting that now and then a horse would sidle out of the track, and
+immediately sink up to the neck. Then came on toil and difficulty, and
+they would be obliged to haul up the floundering animal with ropes. One,
+more unlucky than the rest, after repeated falls, had to be abandoned in
+the snow. Notwithstanding these repeated delays, they succeeded, before
+the sun had acquired sufficient power to thaw the snow, in getting all
+the rest of their horses safely to the other side of the mountain.
+
+Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They
+had now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with
+ice. It was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun
+should melt the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in
+the yielding snow. They had a frightful warning of the danger of
+any movement while the sleet remained. A wild young mare, in her
+restlessness, strayed to the edge of a declivity. One slip was fatal
+to her; she lost her balance, careered with headlong velocity down the
+slippery side of the mountain for more than two thousand feet, and was
+dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers afterward sought
+the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and mangled in the
+most horrible manner.
+
+It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the
+ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them
+to prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day
+they succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then
+packing all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more
+set out briskly and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day
+succeeded in getting to a grassy region.
+
+Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the
+mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and
+needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return
+home. This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their
+faithful services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white
+friends, after which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging
+many farewells and kind wishes.
+
+On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the
+mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found
+the grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this
+neighborhood, he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids
+of basaltes, rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet.
+
+Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the
+party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams.
+After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people
+were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions
+to discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join
+them. He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract
+of country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he
+now shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small
+hordes of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon
+trout and other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season
+in fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated
+the mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn.
+
+On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in
+the vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company
+on the preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the
+beginning of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two
+months beyond the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this
+have been broken up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched
+scouts a few miles above, to visit the old camping ground and search for
+signals of the party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually
+have abandoned the spot. They returned without being able to ascertain
+anything.
+
+Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary
+to make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches,
+therefore, on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their
+baggage, and then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as
+to kill a couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined
+to husband this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest
+they should again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous
+hunting grounds. Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they
+found that the wolves had been at the caches, scratched up the contents,
+and scattered them in every direction. They now constructed a more
+secure one, in which they deposited their heaviest articles, and then
+descended Snake River again, and encamped just above the American Falls.
+Here they proceeded to fortify themselves, intending to remain here,
+and give their horses an opportunity to recruit their strength with good
+pasturage, until it should be time to set out for the annual rendezvous
+in Bear River valley.
+
+On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the
+river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by
+a discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of
+their own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the
+whole party which he had left in the preceding month of December were
+encamped on Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far
+above the Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch,
+and in a little while had the pleasure of finding himself once more
+surrounded by his people, who greeted his return among them in the
+heartiest manner; for his long-protracted absence had convinced them
+that he and his three companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe.
+
+The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by
+famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches
+at Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and
+considered themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the
+dangerous neighborhood without sustaining any loss.
+
+Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his
+men was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such
+feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was
+wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in
+particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia
+was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game
+flavor of the wilderness.
+
+
+
+
+37.
+
+     Departure for the rendezvous--A war party of Blackfeet--A
+     mock bustle--Sham fires at night--Warlike precautions--
+     Dangers of a night attack--A panic among horses--Cautious
+     march--The Beer Springs--A mock carousel--Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes--A buffalo bait--Arrival at the rendezvous--
+     Meeting of various bands
+
+AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke
+up the encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free
+trappers, half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in
+Bear River valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon
+reached the hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the
+march, he descried from the brow of a hill, a war party of about
+sixty Blackfeet, on the plain immediately below him. His situation was
+perilous; for the greater part of his people were dispersed in various
+directions. Still, to betray hesitation or fear would be to discover his
+actual weakness, and to invite attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore,
+a belligerent tone; ordered the squaws to lead the horses to a small
+grove of ashen trees, and unload and tie them; and caused a great bustle
+to be made by his scanty handful; the leaders riding hither and thither,
+and vociferating with all their might, as if a numerous force was
+getting under way for an attack.
+
+To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number
+of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His
+men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In
+such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle
+beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in
+case of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at
+once, and start up, completely armed.
+
+Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses,
+and set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and
+principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage
+is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens
+another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps
+where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night
+alarm of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have
+broken loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain
+fast; the howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of
+white men, and red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and
+trampling of fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up
+forms of men and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make
+up one of the wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way,
+sometimes, all the horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be
+frightened off in a single night.
+
+The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no
+likelihood that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp
+where there was a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The
+captain, therefore, continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions;
+throwing out scouts in the advance, and on every rising ground.
+
+In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already
+mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by
+the trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments
+every spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand,
+indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying
+jokes, singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it
+seemed as if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and
+cheated them into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of
+the moment, they were loud and extravagant in their commendations of
+“the mountain tap”; elevating it above every beverage produced from hops
+or malt. It was a singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region
+where everything is strange and peculiar:--These groups of trappers, and
+hunters, and Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances;
+their boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry
+round these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons,
+ready to be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of
+representing banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here
+were groups, still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden
+onset of Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to
+a furious melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper’s life
+complete.
+
+The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance;
+and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache
+behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River;
+amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which
+the country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his
+repose in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon
+him; then rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot
+at him as he started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal
+springs upon his legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular
+process by which it is effected. The horse rises first upon his fore
+legs; and the domestic cow, upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo
+bounds at once from a couchant to an erect position, with a celerity
+that baffles the eye. Though from his bulk, and rolling gait, he does
+not appear to run with much swiftness; yet, it takes a stanch horse to
+overtake him, when at full speed on level ground; and a buffalo cow is
+still fleeter in her motion.
+
+Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable
+horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind
+of buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they
+prepared for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on
+horseback, they would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession,
+goading him to make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the
+horse, they would easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him,
+feathering him with arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was
+bristled all over like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs
+of exhaustion, and he could no longer be provoked to make battle, they
+would dismount from their horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing
+him by the tail, jerk him from side to side, and drag him backward;
+until the frantic animal, gathering fresh strength from fury, would
+break from them, and rush, with flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing,
+upon any enemy in sight; but in a little while, his transient excitement
+at an end, would pitch headlong on the ground, and expire. The arrows
+were then plucked forth, the tongue cut out and preserved as a dainty,
+and the carcass left a banquet for the wolves.
+
+Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the
+13th of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or
+five days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he
+found extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that
+he was obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore
+them. The mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the
+west, are marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is
+a beautiful beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs,
+which advance upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery.
+The water is very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish.
+
+Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on
+his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher
+up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to
+circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the
+nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days;
+and were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades,
+from whom they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain
+Bonneville was about the result of their journey, and the information
+they had procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense
+curiosity and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in
+the following chapter.
+
+
+
+
+38.
+
+     Plan of the Salt Lake expedition--Great sandy deserts--
+     Sufferings from thirst--Ogden’s--River--Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages--Thefts at night--A trapper’s revenge--
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience--A murderous victory--
+     Californian mountains--Plains along the--Pacific--Arrival
+     at--Monterey--Account of the place and neighborhood--Lower--
+     California--Its extent--The Peninsula--Soil--Climate--
+     Production--Its settlements by the Jesuits--Their sway over
+     the Indians--Their expulsion--Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment--Sublime scenery--Upper California Missions--
+     Their power and policy--Resources of the country--Designs of
+     foreign nations
+
+IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the
+brigade of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the
+Great Salt Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping
+on all the streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals
+and make charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the
+surrounding country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been
+tasked to fit out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the
+southwest of the mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet
+almost unknown; being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed
+by the trapper, who preferred those parts of the wilderness where
+the roaming herds of that species of animal gave him comparatively an
+abundant and luxurious life. Still it was said the deer, the elk, and
+the bighorn were to be found there, so that, with a little diligence and
+economy, there was no danger of lacking food. As a precaution, however,
+the party halted on Bear River and hunted for a few days, until they had
+laid in a supply of dried buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by
+the head waters of the Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched
+on an immense sandy desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the
+Great Salt Lake, spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running
+into it. A desert extended around them, and stretched to the southwest,
+as far as the eye could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa
+in sterility. There was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool,
+nor running stream, nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and
+rider were in danger of perishing.
+
+Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned
+their intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains,
+brightening in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time,
+they came upon a small stream leading directly towards these mountains.
+Having quenched their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their
+weary horses for a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually
+increased in size, being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the
+mountains, it took a sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers
+still kept along it, trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which
+they subsisted for the present, husbanding their dried meat for future
+necessities.
+
+The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River,
+but is more generally known as Ogden’s River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an
+enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who
+first explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the
+travellers were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or
+Root Diggers, the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy
+people, prone to keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently
+met with their trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in
+various parts of the vast landscape, so that they knew there were great
+numbers in the neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be
+met with.
+
+After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the
+Shoshokoes were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was
+dogged by these eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles
+were missing, yet nothing could be seen of the marauders. What
+particularly exasperated the hunters, was to have their traps stolen
+from the streams. One morning, a trapper of a violent and savage
+character, discovering that his traps had been carried off in the night,
+took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian he should meet, innocent
+or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades to camp, he beheld two
+unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank, fishing. Advancing upon
+them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the spot, and flung his
+bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled and was suffered
+to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of violence are
+regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed ruffian
+enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment this
+desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The
+trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on
+westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range
+of mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain,
+on the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising,
+as before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now
+converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the
+scattered bands for vengeance.
+
+After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes
+in considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however,
+suspected them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd
+into and get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and
+daring conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads
+of the poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive
+race, unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons,
+excepting for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains
+and along the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other
+times on roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat’s-tail. They
+are of the same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake
+River, and whom he found so mild and inoffensive.
+
+The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making
+their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round
+their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise
+them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying
+into Ogden’s River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number
+of Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were
+there with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their
+rifles, and killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to
+a short distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like
+wolves, and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them
+in every direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with
+terror; neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors,
+that a weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians
+throughout the affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages
+had no hostile intention, but had merely gathered together through
+motives of curiosity, as others of their tribe had done when Captain
+Bonneville and his companions passed along Snake River.
+
+The trappers continued down Ogden’s River, until they ascertained that
+it lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent
+discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of
+California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the
+shores of the Pacific.
+
+For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains,
+the peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual
+snow. Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking
+of the sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful
+precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage
+mountains were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved;
+at length, they made their way through them, and came down upon the
+plains of New California, a fertile region extending along the coast,
+with magnificent forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked
+like stately parks. Here they found deer and other game in abundance,
+and indemnified themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the
+south, and passing numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various
+streams, arrived at the Spanish village and post of Monterey.
+
+This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in
+latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage.
+The surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys;
+the soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and
+the climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California,
+extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30’ to 42 north, is
+represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North
+America.
+
+Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great
+peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone.
+It is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes
+called the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the
+West, the Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called.
+The peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many
+sandy plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical
+cactus growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water,
+however, and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens
+everything into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with
+the rich and beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane
+and indigo plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of
+North America. There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the
+orange, the citron, the pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the
+voluptuous climates of the south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a
+generous wine. In the interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty
+veins of gold are said, likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful
+water are to be fished upon the coast.
+
+The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who,
+certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved
+the most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained
+and maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military
+force, but solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty,
+and entered into the most amicable relations with the natives, then
+numbering from twenty-five to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold
+upon their affections, and a control over their minds, that effected
+a complete change in their condition. They built eleven missionary
+establishments in the various valleys of the peninsula, which formed
+rallying places for the surrounding savages, where they gathered
+together as sheep into the fold, and surrendered themselves and their
+consciences into the hands of these spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are
+told, could exceed the implicit and affectionate devotion of the Indian
+converts to the Jesuit fathers, and the Catholic faith was disseminated
+widely through the wilderness. The growing power and influence of the
+Jesuits in the New World at length excited the jealousy of the Spanish
+government, and they were banished from the colonies. The governor, who
+arrived at California to expel them, and to take charge of the country,
+expected to find a rich and powerful fraternity, with immense treasures
+hoarded in their missions, and an army of Indians ready to defend them.
+On the contrary, he beheld a few venerable silver-haired priests coming
+humbly forward to meet him, followed by a throng of weeping, but
+submissive natives. The heart of the governor, it is said, was so
+touched by this unexpected sight, that he shed tears; but he had to
+execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their
+embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners, who took
+leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the latter abandoned their
+hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their southern brethren,
+so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The Franciscans
+immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the Dominicans;
+but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the missionary
+establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are all in
+ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power and
+prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the
+chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley,
+about half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the
+peninsula being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn
+stone, one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about
+fifty-five feet deep. The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet
+high, with a vaulted roof of stone, about two feet and a half in
+thickness. It is now abandoned and desolate; the beautiful valley is
+without an inhabitant--not a human being resides within thirty miles of
+the place!
+
+In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller
+passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak
+in the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent
+prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark
+blue sea beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the
+immense lava plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an
+Italian effect to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color,
+and the sunsets are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a
+slight and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
+
+Upper California extends from latitude 31 10’ to 42 on the Pacific, and
+inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from
+the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in
+this province, most of which were established about fifty years since,
+and are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a
+protecting sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who
+reside on the lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has
+fifteen miles square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots,
+proportioned to the number of Indian converts attached to the mission.
+Some are enclosed with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets,
+composed of rows of huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances
+whitewashed and roofed with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior,
+beyond the reach of all military protection, and dependent entirely on
+the good will of the natives, which never fails them. They have made
+considerable progress in teaching the Indians the useful arts. There
+are native tanners, shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters,
+and other artificers attached to each establishment. Others are taught
+husbandry, and the rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card
+and spin wool, weave, and perform the other duties allotted to their
+sex in civilized life. No social intercourse is allowed between the
+unmarried of the opposite sexes after working hours; and at night they
+are locked up in separate apartments, and the keys delivered to the
+priests.
+
+The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are
+entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for
+the support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under
+their control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the
+missions, and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might
+be produced to an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there
+a sufficient market for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the
+missions.
+
+Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former
+may be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an
+inferior breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable
+qualities, cost from seven to ten dollars.
+
+There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San
+Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of
+Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port
+of San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place.
+The entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole
+navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take
+their rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run
+through a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves
+into the harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for
+ship-building. In a word, this favored port combines advantages which
+not only fit it for a grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of
+being made the dominant military post of these seas.
+
+Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value
+of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The
+Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already
+encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the
+port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys
+have likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we
+have little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and,
+until recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources
+of wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its
+inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches;
+they have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast
+interior that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and
+industry to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor
+to prosecute that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a
+country into profitable action.
+
+
+
+
+39.
+
+     Gay life at Monterey--Mexican horsemen--A bold dragoon--Use
+     of the lasso--Vaqueros--Noosing a bear--Fight between a bull
+     and a bear--Departure from Monterey--Indian horse stealers--
+     Outrages committed by the travellers--Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville
+
+THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the
+inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered
+extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When
+they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests
+at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be
+their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted
+to kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze
+the country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners.
+They attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of
+their expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not
+belong to them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool’s paradise.
+
+What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the
+Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this
+country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of
+California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are
+fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild
+horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of
+the prairies.
+
+A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the
+equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero
+of Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed
+in a round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches,
+unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer
+skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel
+of his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round
+the lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries
+a bull’s hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before
+and behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish
+fashion, and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle
+at his heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself
+the glory of California, and the terror of the universe.
+
+The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that
+is to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are
+expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to
+Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come,
+originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral
+people of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the
+army of Xerxes. By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of
+purposes; and among others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting,
+they cast the noose around a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The
+vaqueros, or Indian cattle drivers, have also learned the use of the
+laso from the Spaniards; and employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by
+throwing it round their horns.
+
+The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite,
+though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull.
+For this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood,
+frequented by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide
+themselves in the vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As
+soon as one, fit for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out,
+and with the laso, dexterously noose him by either leg. After
+dragging him at full speed until he is fatigued, they secure him more
+effectually; and tying him on the carcass of the bullock, draw him in
+triumph to the scene of action. By this time, he is exasperated to such
+frenzy, that they are sometimes obliged to throw cold water on him, to
+moderate his fury; and dangerous would it be, for horse and rider, were
+he, while in this paroxysm, to break his bonds.
+
+A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated
+in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose
+in the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly;
+and always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is,
+by his previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring
+of the bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to
+this most sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony.
+In his heat and fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly
+clutched by the bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge
+antagonist; and then dispatches him without difficulty.
+
+Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with
+bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being
+considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions.
+
+After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying,
+but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party
+set out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing
+their steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern
+extremity, and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the
+sandy plains south of Ogden’s River; in traversing which, they again
+suffered, grievously, for want of water.
+
+In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in
+pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages
+of this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and
+armed only with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the
+Spaniards not to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult,
+with their blunt shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they
+occasionally supply themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish
+horses. Driving them stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they
+slaughter them without difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions.
+Some they carry off to trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the
+Spanish horses pass from hand to hand among the Indians, until they even
+find their way across the Rocky Mountains.
+
+The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders;
+but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and
+wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses.
+
+Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers,
+and proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey
+through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to
+have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest
+outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the
+light of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them
+with the sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for
+the infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they
+were guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them
+without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their
+unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with
+their lasos, and then dragging them to death!
+
+Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at
+least, such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect;
+for he was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so
+indignant at the atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust
+and horror, from the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch
+law of the wilderness, and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their
+own lasos, it would but have been a well-merited and salutary act of
+retributive justice. The failure of this expedition was a blow to his
+pride, and a still greater blow to his purse. The Great Salt Lake
+still remained unexplored; at the same time, the means which had been
+furnished so liberally to fit out this favorite expedition, had all been
+squandered at Monterey; and the peltries, also, which had been collected
+on the way. He would have but scanty returns, therefore, to make this
+year, to his associates in the United States; and there was great danger
+of their becoming disheartened, and abandoning the enterprise.
+
+
+
+
+40.
+
+     Traveller’s tales--Indian lurkers--Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents--The medicine wolf--An alarm--An ambush
+     The captured provant--Triumph of Buckeye--Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse--Arrangements for the year--Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.
+
+THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses
+of the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on
+the contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the
+camp. The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among
+the hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and
+bull-fights especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had
+another expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would
+have been to restrain a general eagerness to volunteer.
+
+The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by
+various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was
+evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march,
+had dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep
+his camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline
+among trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port.
+
+Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of
+the hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up
+caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs
+and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white
+comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans,
+or medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the
+howling or barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven
+by the larger wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by
+the hunters, follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp.
+Here the smell of the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze,
+keeps them hovering about the neighborhood; scenting every blast,
+turning up their noses like hungry hounds, and testifying their
+pinching hunger by long whining howls and impatient barkings. These are
+interpreted by the superstitious Indians into warnings that strangers
+are at hand; and one accidental coincidence, like the chance fulfillment
+of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to cover a thousand failures.
+This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is, therefore, called among
+Indians the “medicine wolf;” and such was one of Buckeye’s infallible
+oracles.
+
+One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy
+countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from
+mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not
+appear. “Danger,” he said, “was lurking in their path, and there would
+be some fighting before sunset.” He was bantered for his prophecy, which
+was attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by
+bad dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in
+pursuit of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat
+they should procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came
+clattering at full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet!
+Blackfeet! Every one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the
+alarm. It appeared that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely,
+leading their mule well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed
+close by a small stream overhung with trees, about two miles from
+the camp. Suddenly a party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the
+thickets, sprang up with a fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the
+hunters. The latter immediately threw themselves flat on their horses,
+put them to their speed, and never paused to look behind, until they
+found themselves in camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound;
+but the mule, with all the “provant,” had fallen into the hands of the
+enemy This was a loss, as well as an insult, not to be borne. Every
+man sprang to horse, and with rifle in hand, galloped off to punish
+the Blackfeet, and rescue the buffalo beef. They came too late; the
+marauders were off, and all that they found of their mule was the dents
+of his hoofs, as he had been conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his
+savory cargo to the hills, to furnish the scampering savages with a
+banquet of roast meat at the expense of the white men.
+
+The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more
+grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by
+his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars
+of the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then
+pointing to the west, “the sun has not yet set,” said he: “Buckeye did
+not dream like a fool!”
+
+All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak,
+and were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to
+mind, also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions
+made at various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious
+credulity, began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how
+natural it was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction
+verified in the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a
+lurking foe.
+
+The various bands of Captain Bonneville’s company had now been assembled
+for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting,
+and frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth
+merrymaking, which invariably take place on these occasions. Their
+horses, as well as themselves, had recovered from past famine and
+fatigue, and were again fit for active service; and an impatience began
+to manifest itself among the men once more to take the field, and set
+off on some wandering expedition.
+
+At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a
+supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active
+leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in
+skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year’s collection of
+peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of
+his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged.
+
+The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual
+revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers;
+drinking, dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting.
+Alcohol, which, from its portable qualities, containing the greatest
+quantity of fiery spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor
+carried across the mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these
+carousals, and is dealt out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When
+inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks
+and gambols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their drunken
+bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one of these riotous revels, presents
+a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes, broken heads, lack-lustre visages.
+Many of the trappers have squandered in one drunken frolic the
+hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt, and must toil on to
+pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep draught of pleasure,
+and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for hardship and hard
+work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and topped off with
+an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless trapper.
+
+The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and
+Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed
+to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year.
+Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the
+Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills,
+and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter
+quarters.
+
+The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He
+intended to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the
+lower part of the Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the
+Multnomah; after wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with
+those tribes, among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would
+return in the spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and
+his party in the month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where
+he expected to receive his annual supplies from the States.
+
+If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the
+contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by
+noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings.
+Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July,
+on their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that
+Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who
+had parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn,
+to descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new
+levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the
+banks of the Columbia.
+
+As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this “eastern man,”
+ and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his
+movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with
+the reader’s permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his
+camp and saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few
+hundred miles in distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch
+ourselves with Wyeth in his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage
+will take us many hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering
+rivers; yet such is the magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring
+the reader safe to Bear River Valley, by the time the last horse is
+saddled.
+
+
+
+
+41.
+
+     A voyage in a bull boat.
+
+IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth,
+as the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of
+the rapids of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of
+Campbell and Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo
+skins, stretched on a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid
+with elk tallow and ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five
+feet six inches wide, sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew
+about a foot and a half of water-a depth too great for these upper
+rivers, which abound with shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of
+two half-breeds, who claimed to be white men, though a mixture of the
+French creole and the Shawnee and Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover,
+to be thorough mountaineers, and first-rate hunters--the common boast of
+these vagabonds of the wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce
+lad of eighteen years of age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great
+aim, like all Indian servants, was to do as little work as possible;
+there was, moreover, a half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son
+of a Hudson’s Bay trader by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with
+Wyeth to see the world and complete his education. Add to these, Mr.
+Milton Sublette, who went as passenger, and we have the crew of the
+little bull boat complete.
+
+It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet
+through countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to
+navigate these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running
+on snags and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells
+with which these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest
+streams; and it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these
+boats will endure, and what vicissitudes they will live through. Their
+duration, however, is but limited; they require frequently to be
+hauled out of the water and dried, to prevent the hides from becoming
+water-soaked; and they eventually rot and go to pieces.
+
+The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about
+five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally
+alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled
+occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs
+and promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands.
+Beyond the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills.
+
+Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat
+experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his
+attention and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags
+of sunken trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where
+the river branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and
+occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back.
+
+It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were
+passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in
+reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable
+foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly
+promenading along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as
+they glided by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying
+on the ground, like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as
+these, a perfect solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign
+of human habitation; for the Crows, as we have already shown, are a
+wandering people, a race of hunters and warriors, who live in tents and
+on horseback, and are continually on the move. At night they landed,
+hauled up their boat to dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing
+fire. Then, as it was the first evening of their voyage, they indulged
+in a regale, relishing their buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after
+which, they slept soundly, without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early
+in the morning, they again launched the boat and committed themselves to
+the stream.
+
+In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence,
+excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore,
+and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried
+some persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by
+calculation, at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the
+American Fur Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A
+nearer approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from
+the rest, they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main
+force of the Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several
+chiefs, were but about two or three miles below, on their way up along
+the river. This was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible,
+and the river afforded no hiding place. They continued forward,
+therefore, trusting that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows
+might refrain from any depredations.
+
+Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first
+band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with
+guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made
+a wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their
+accustomed dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band
+of Crow cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in
+height, lithe and active, with hawks’ eyes and Roman noses. The
+latter feature is common to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky
+Mountains; those on the western side have generally straight or flat
+noses.
+
+Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the
+river, at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was
+perceived, therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and,
+we presume, in no very choice language; for, among their other
+accomplishments, the Crows are famed for possessing a Billingsgate
+vocabulary of unrivalled opulence, and for being by no means sparing
+of it whenever an occasion offers. Indeed, though Indians are generally
+very lofty, rhetorical, and figurative in their language at all great
+talks, and high ceremonials, yet, if trappers and traders may be
+believed, they are the most unsavory vagabonds in their ordinary
+colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a spade a spade; and when
+they once undertake to call hard names, the famous pot and kettle, of
+vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them for scurrility of
+epithet.
+
+To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the
+launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with
+the best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was
+Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have
+already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse
+between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good
+presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too,
+thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow
+fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a
+still greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his
+own with surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step
+among the crowd.
+
+Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do
+but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez
+Perce’s scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped
+up and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped
+himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that
+Wyeth and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of
+these officious Crows before they were entirely plucked.
+
+Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the
+second band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of
+passing them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns
+at the boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the
+stream, and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth
+threw a cord to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be
+drawn to the shore.
+
+In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his
+people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most
+of their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity
+of the American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good
+prize of the bull boat and all its contents.
+
+These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of
+mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in
+the autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects;
+hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their
+trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow
+country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by
+some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of
+their rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their
+competition was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a
+great object of rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the
+Crows in their depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent
+chiefly on robbing the parties of their traps and horses, thereby
+disabling them from prosecuting their hunting.
+
+We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were
+pushing their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those
+of the American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are
+speaking, Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel
+boat, laden with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this
+eager rivalship being carried to extremes.
+
+The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds
+of dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the
+river and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this
+stream, they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank,
+about three miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld
+a party of thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be
+Blackfeet. The width of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient
+distance, and they soon landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere
+fortification against Indians; being a stockade of about one hundred and
+thirty feet square, with two bastions at the extreme corners. M’Tulloch,
+an agent of the American Company, was stationed there with twenty men;
+two boats of fifteen tons burden were lying here; but at certain seasons
+of the year a steamboat can come up to the fort.
+
+They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their
+appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token
+of amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly
+received at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been
+engaged, the year previously, in the battle at Pierre’s Hole, and a
+fierce-looking set of fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very
+much resembling the Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand,
+to make peace with the Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to
+overtake them. Wyeth predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he
+had heard the Crows denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two
+of their warriors who had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty
+of peace. It is probable, however, that this pacific errand was all a
+pretence, and that the real object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang
+about the skirts of the Crow band, steal their horses, and take the
+scalps of stragglers.
+
+At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a
+quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he
+once more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone,
+which inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial
+bottoms, fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood,
+and interrupted occasionally by “bluffs” of sandstone. The current
+occasionally brings down fragments of granite and porphyry.
+
+In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among
+the trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want
+of provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time,
+a party of Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all
+speed, to the opposite side of the river.
+
+After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was
+immediately for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs
+of dissatisfaction in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as
+trenching upon their province, and meddling with things quite above
+his capacity; for these veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly
+pragmatical, on points of venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their
+superiority; looking down with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners.
+The two worthies, therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time
+returned empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their
+guns; two miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their
+picking and hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great
+boasters of the wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots,
+and fortunate it is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the
+blame.
+
+The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on
+a prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth,
+and again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing
+went off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing
+his dinner if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand,
+therefore, and went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned
+laden with buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular
+hunters, who were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made
+under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece
+of meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before
+it; in a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters
+gradually recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard
+their old flint guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and
+boasted more than ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they
+had guns that never missed fire.
+
+Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their
+repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on
+their way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they
+hoisted whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the
+stream. Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and
+land, with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped
+on islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a
+dangerous neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving
+their fire burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making
+no fire at their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night
+with the current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept.
+in such case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the
+following day to dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was
+gradually getting water-soaked and rotten.
+
+There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating
+down these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these
+elevated regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened
+the magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of
+the waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary
+howl, or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and
+bellowing of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the
+ear with an effect unknown in the daytime.
+
+The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification
+when they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding
+swiftly round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them
+gave the alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and
+every one caught up his rifle. “Where are they?” cried Wyeth.
+
+“There--there! riding on horseback!” cried one of the hunters.
+
+“Yes; with white scarfs on!” cried the other.
+
+Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but
+two bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and
+seeming, from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an
+opposite direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans,
+who prided themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight,
+produced a hearty laugh at their expense, and put an end to their
+vauntings.
+
+The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream;
+its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow
+clay color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour,
+with occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed
+them all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places
+precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region
+abounding with buffalo--that ever-journeying animal, which moves in
+countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing
+plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming
+rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some
+traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at
+certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit
+the remotest shores.
+
+These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths
+and highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest
+passes of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers.
+When once a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward,
+regardless of all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving
+mass behind. At such times they will break through a camp, trampling
+down everything in their course.
+
+It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these
+buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long
+asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and
+the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had
+just time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the
+opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they
+moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the
+column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank.
+
+It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold
+this countless throng making their way across the river, blowing,
+and bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and
+continuous column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the
+waters of which rise and rush over their backs, or between their
+squadrons. The roaring and rushing sound of one of these vast herds
+crossing a river, may sometimes in a still night be heard for miles.
+
+The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many
+buffaloes as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their
+havoc; especially among scattered herds, that came swimming near the
+boat. On one occasion, an old buffalo bull approached so near that the
+half-breeds must fain try to noose him as they would a wild horse. The
+noose was successfully thrown around his head, and secured him by the
+horns, and they now promised themselves ample sport. The buffalo
+made prodigious turmoil in the water, bellowing, and blowing, and
+floundering; and they all floated down the stream together. At length he
+found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to his heels, whirled the boat
+after him like a whale when harpooned; so that the hunters were obliged
+to cast off their rope, with which strange head-gear the venerable bull
+made off to the prairies.
+
+On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew,
+into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above
+the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the
+distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country.
+It was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet
+square, pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably
+entertained by Mr. M’Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him
+three days, enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and
+cheese, for the fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it
+had no garden. The atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be
+too dry for the culture of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down
+the Yellowstone, had met with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and
+had observed ash and elm trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be
+incompatible with gardening.
+
+At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men.
+This was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot
+warrior. It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth
+murdered the year previously, at Jackson’s Hole, by the Blackfeet, and
+whose bones had been subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This
+flask had either been passed from hand to hand of the youth, or,
+perhaps, had been brought to the fort by the very savage who slew him.
+
+As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the
+broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up,
+and a canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the
+Blackfeet, was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his
+sail, and bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union,
+turned his prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri.
+
+He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a
+large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William
+Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition
+to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they
+were treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a
+social evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially
+the memorable fight at Pierre’s Hole.
+
+Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the
+canoe, and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the
+fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on
+his course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever
+voyaged on the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the
+stream, without any chance of missing the way.
+
+All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and
+supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with
+the current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and
+serene; the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the
+commencement of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the
+night the canoe struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the
+rush and roar of the wild waters, which broke around her. They were
+all obliged to jump overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was
+accomplished with much difficulty.
+
+In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at
+different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and
+was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed
+hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising
+to entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him.
+Their only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before
+they could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until
+he was fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled
+forward with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him
+in the rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the
+cord and slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles.
+There was nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however,
+than to beat a retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned
+suddenly round and made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous
+show of teeth. The affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle
+off. Scarce had they turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous
+claws on the gunwale, and attempted to get on board. The canoe was
+nearly overturned, and a deluge of water came pouring over the gunwale.
+All was clamor, terror, and confusion. Every one bawled out--the bear
+roared and snarled--one caught up a gun; but water had rendered it
+useless. Others handled their paddles more effectually, and beating old
+Bruin about the head and claws, obliged him to relinquish his hold. They
+now plied their paddles with might and main, the bear made the best
+of his way to shore, and so ended the second exploit of the noose; the
+hunters determined to have no more naval contests with grizzly bears.
+
+The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they
+were approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less
+dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties.
+
+In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted
+quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he
+supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed
+his voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at
+midday, to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters
+mounted a high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his
+eye round, when he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the
+river. Crouching down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he
+had seen. On further reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one
+lodges; and from the number of horses, computed that there must be
+nearly a hundred Indians encamped there. They now drew their boat, with
+all speed and caution, into a thicket of water willows, and remained
+closely concealed all day. As soon as the night closed in they
+re-embarked. The moon would rise early; so that they had but about two
+hours of darkness to get past the camp. The night, however, was cloudy,
+with a blustering wind. Silently, and with muffled oars, they glided
+down the river, keeping close under the shore opposite to the camp;
+watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark forms passing to
+and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of land, they found
+themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the river. It appeared
+that not more than one half of the band had crossed. They were within a
+few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages--some standing,
+some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some lodges were
+set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare of the
+fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the
+surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly
+came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked;
+but the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth
+instantly sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it
+struck upon a sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying
+situation; for he was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle
+range of both. All hands jumped out into the water, and tried to get
+the boat off; but as no one dared to give the word, they could not pull
+together, and their labor was in vain. In this way they labored for a
+long time; until Wyeth thought of giving a signal for a general heave,
+by lifting his hat. The expedient succeeded. They launched their canoe
+again into deep water, and getting in, had the delight of seeing the
+camp fires of the savages soon fading in the distance.
+
+They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond
+all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped.
+
+The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in
+carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm
+night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the
+night, taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night
+was occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse
+lowing of the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching
+of the small ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike
+sound of the swan.
+
+Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds,
+tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in
+extreme danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having
+continued to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under
+a great snag, or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These
+caught the mast, while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream,
+and began to fill with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but
+cutting away the mast. She then drove down the stream, but left one of
+the unlucky half-breeds clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole.
+It was necessary to run in shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies
+and to attain some distance above the snag, when they launched forth
+again into the stream and floated down with it to his rescue.
+
+We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of
+a months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in
+the course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the
+rival fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe.
+Neither shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as
+the voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of
+latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry
+and basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the
+characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still
+more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession
+of latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the
+frozen regions to the tropics.
+
+The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the
+rivers, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of
+the western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct
+the voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself
+in a stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from
+river to river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he
+might have kept on upward of two thousand miles, until his little
+bark should drift into the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at
+Cantonment Leavenworth, the frontier post of the United States; where he
+arrived on the 27th of September.
+
+Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed
+boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were
+hailed by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what
+appeared to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck
+Baptiste with such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy
+at the top of his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not
+Wyeth assured him of his safety. When they underwent the operation
+of the lancet, the doctor’s wife and another lady were present; both
+beautiful women. They were the first white women that they had seen, and
+they could not keep their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat,
+they recounted to their companions all that they had observed at the
+fort; but were especially eloquent about the white squaws, who, they
+said, were white as snow, and more beautiful than any human being they
+had ever beheld.
+
+We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will
+simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in
+organizing an association under the name of “The Columbia River Fishing
+and Trading Company,” for his original objects of a salmon fishery and
+a trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the
+Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at
+the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom
+were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the
+wilderness than his first band of “down-easters.”
+
+We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left,
+making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley.
+
+
+
+
+42.
+
+     Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia--Advance of
+     Wyeth--Efforts to keep the lead--Hudson’s Bay party--A
+     junketing--A delectable beverage--Honey and alcohol--High
+     carousing--The Canadian “bon vivant”--A cache--A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans--His travelling companions--Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality--An interruption.
+
+IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second
+visit to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He
+travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July
+a scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in
+the rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle
+in the camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to
+secure provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden
+to travel fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive
+all superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of
+the earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two
+miles further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line
+of horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and
+encamped close by.
+
+It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company,
+under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders,
+who, with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are
+employed to follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to
+another, and buy up their peltries.
+
+Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson’s Bay Company, the
+captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening
+regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in
+these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon
+made, that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a
+midsummer banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was
+abundance of such hunters’ fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it
+was all discussed with mountain appetites. They talked over all the
+events of their late campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been
+unlucky in some of his transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy.
+Captain Bonneville remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had
+no juice of the grape to keep it down.
+
+A man’s wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a
+thought suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable
+beverage. Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted.
+This he filled up with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous
+ingredients together. The glorious results may readily be imagined;
+a happy compound of strength and sweetness, enough to soothe the most
+ruffled temper and unsettle the most solid understanding.
+
+The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first
+deep draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the
+second elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon
+companion; as all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became
+glorious; talked over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings
+with Indian braves, his loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old
+French ditties, and Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang
+louder and louder; until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety,
+he gradually declined, and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground.
+After a long nap he again raised his head, imbibed another potation of
+the “sweet and strong,” flashed up with another slight blaze of French
+gayety, and again fell asleep.
+
+The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and
+sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and
+calling to mind the captain’s dulcet compound, with many a retch and
+spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly
+and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and
+that he had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless
+and woebegone was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march
+without him; the captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after
+part of the day.
+
+As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville’s men proceeded
+to construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the
+party of Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity
+to take the road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being
+lightened of a great part of their burdens, were able to move with
+celerity. As to the worthy convive of the preceding evening, he was
+carefully gathered up from the hunter’s couch on which he lay, repentant
+and supine, and, being packed upon one of the horses, was hurried
+forward with the convoy, groaning and ejaculating at every jolt.
+
+In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of
+his party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly
+and courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes
+since they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his
+intention of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the
+Portneuf, and leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to
+trade with the neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this
+measure, in consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company
+to take a supply of goods which he had brought out for them according
+to contract; and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further
+informed Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky
+Mountain and American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious
+stratagems and deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the
+country between them, allotting boundaries within which each was to
+trade and hunt, so as not to interfere with the other.
+
+In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall,
+the botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the
+expedition to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these
+gentlemen we may look forward to important information concerning these
+interesting regions. There were three religious missionaries, also,
+bound to the shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel
+in that far wilderness.
+
+After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth
+returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press
+forward, and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and
+moralizing chief of the Hudson’s Bay Company, under a proper escort, to
+rejoin his people; his route branching off in a different direction.
+The latter took a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future
+occasion, to repay his hospitality in kind.
+
+In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts
+out far ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had
+confidently expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of
+the Portneuf; but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen.
+
+At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the
+head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly
+grazing in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report
+his discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably
+entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to
+his own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o’clock of the
+same morning, Captain Bonneville’s party were in the midst of the game.
+
+The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners,
+mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others
+of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for
+jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same
+purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing
+in the choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the
+scaffolds, and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and
+activity. At daylight the next morning, the runners again took the
+field, with similar success; and, after an interval of repose made their
+third and last chase, about twelve o’clock; for by this time, Wyeth’s
+party was in sight. The game being now driven into a valley, at some
+distance, Wyeth was obliged to fix his camp there; but he came in the
+evening to pay Captain Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain
+Stewart, the amateur traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for
+the adventurous life of the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M’Kay,
+a half-breed; son of the unfortunate adventurer of the same name who
+came out in the first maritime expedition to Astoria and was blown up
+in the Tonquin. His son had grown up in the employ of the British fur
+companies; and was a prime hunter, and a daring partisan. He held,
+moreover, a farm in the valley of the Wallamut.
+
+The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville’s camp, were
+surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party
+being dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present
+chance for hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of
+remaining with so trifling a guard in a region so full of danger.
+Captain Bonneville vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never
+hesitated to send out all his hunters, when any important object was to
+be attained; and experience had taught him that he was most secure when
+his forces were thus distributed over the surrounding country. He then
+was sure that no enemy could approach, from any direction, without
+being discovered by his hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the
+slightest signs of the proximity of Indians; and who would instantly
+convey intelligence to the camp.
+
+The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable
+entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of
+prime hunters’ dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and
+roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in
+hunters’ style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful
+hunting ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the
+puny gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian
+grace to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his
+mellifluous keg of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over
+the senses of the veteran of Hudson’s Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again
+went round; never did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more
+rapturous commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that
+happy state which would have insured ample cause for the next day’s
+repentance; and the bees were already beginning to buzz about their
+ears, when a messenger came spurring to the camp with intelligence that
+Wyeth’s people had got entangled in one of those deep and frightful
+ravines, piled with immense fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the
+whole country about the head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel
+was instantly at an end; the keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was
+deserted; and the guests departed with all speed to aid in extricating
+their companions from the volcanic ravine.
+
+
+
+
+43.
+
+     A rapid march--A cloud of dust--Wild horsemen--“High Jinks”
+      Horseracing and rifle-shooting--The game of hand--The
+     fishing season--Mode of fishing--Table lands--Salmon
+     fishers--The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge--The Indian
+     girl--The pocket mirror--Supper--Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.
+
+“UP and away!” is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader,
+when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the
+morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed
+upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered
+buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the
+Portneuf. His march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills,
+broken into cliffs and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms,
+where the rocks rose like walls.
+
+On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and
+as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring
+hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great
+cloud of dust rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening
+back to the camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made
+to receive an enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon
+the “running horses” kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In
+a little while, they made signals from a distance that all was friendly.
+By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a
+blast, and a band of wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the
+camp, yelling and whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their
+accoutrements, their mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made
+them seem a party of savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be
+principally half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness,
+who were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson’s
+Bay Company.
+
+Here was again “high jinks” in the camp. Captain Bonneville’s men hailed
+these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game
+birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of
+mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual
+details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals
+of laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses
+and rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to
+racing, and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded
+another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties,
+fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take
+place, when suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a
+strange kind of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them
+as a charm. Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded
+and the ideas of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws
+were turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking
+their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting
+amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the Far West.
+
+The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind
+of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of “Hand.” This is
+played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing
+fire. It is in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or
+the button, and detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game,
+the object hidden, or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a
+small splint of wood, or other diminutive article that may be concealed
+in the closed hand. This is passed backward and forward among the party
+“in hand,” while the party “out of hand” guess where it is concealed. To
+heighten the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles
+are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party “in
+hand” beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the choral chant
+already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as the game proceeds. As
+large bets are staked upon the game, the excitement is prodigious.
+Each party in turn bursts out in full chorus, beating, and yelling, and
+working themselves up into such a heat that the perspiration rolls down
+their naked shoulders, even in the cold of a winter night. The bets
+are doubled and trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement
+increases almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers
+are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
+
+These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire
+glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic
+orgies, and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding
+day, had not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the
+usual hour, issued his marching orders.
+
+Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly
+returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet
+scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was
+now the season of the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these
+parts celebrate the first appearance of the salmon in this river. These
+fish are taken in great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet
+pitch. The Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them
+as they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a
+sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and
+forming an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening
+is left for the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station
+themselves on small rafts, and ply their spears with great success.
+
+The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil,
+inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly
+speaking, wormwood. Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven
+occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches
+the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs, difficult to
+pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is impossible, for days
+together, to get down to the water’s edge, to give drink to the horses.
+This obliges the traveller occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the
+river, and make a wide sweep into the interior.
+
+It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely
+from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were
+extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the
+edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the
+travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly
+shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of
+the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
+current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after
+the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant.
+
+At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly
+five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with
+groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in
+great numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to
+enable them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid
+race, and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one
+of the huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding
+to cook a fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and
+hung over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is
+considered cooked.
+
+Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain
+awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the
+repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part.
+While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him,
+and turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes,
+discovered a young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath,
+who directed her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to
+gaze in mute surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her
+fears, and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly
+to tie it round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a
+sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the
+captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man,
+succeed in conquering the shyness of the savage little beauty. His
+attentions were now turned toward the parents, whom he presented with
+an awl and a little tobacco, and having thus secured their good-will,
+continued to smoke his pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated
+near the threshold, an urchin of the family approached the door, but
+catching a sight of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and
+ensconced himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut.
+
+Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the
+simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere
+concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of
+a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After
+examining it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced
+a musk-rat skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head;
+but purchased the skin for a couple of buttons--superfluous trinkets! as
+the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to
+place them.
+
+The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in
+the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and
+a string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return;
+but could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being
+now completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous
+portion was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some
+fresh grass, which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted
+a salmon boiled so completely to his fancy.
+
+Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to
+his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils
+so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs of
+confusion and dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the
+kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became easy and
+communicative; and at length hinted something about exchanging beaver
+skins for horses. The captain at once offered to dispose of his steed,
+which stood fastened at the door. The bargain was soon concluded,
+whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of bushes under which his
+valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of skins agreed upon as
+the price.
+
+Shortly afterward, some of the captain’s people coming up, he ordered
+another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from
+the hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple
+inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl
+had kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking,
+watching every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off,
+remained gazing after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however,
+delighted with his new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse,
+and followed in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a
+faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood.
+
+The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct
+of one of the captain’s men, who had been in the California expedition.
+During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place,
+he had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled
+freely and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless,
+suspicious look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting
+often at the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who
+regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily
+a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the
+prospect of a battle. At length he requested permission of Captain
+Bonneville to keep out of the way of these people entirely. Their
+striking resemblance, he said, to the people of Ogden’s River, made
+him continually fear that some among them might have seen him in that
+expedition; and might seek an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this,
+while they remained in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way
+and keep aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. “Such,”
+ observed Captain Bonneville, “is the effect of self-reproach, even upon
+the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little else to fear than
+the stings of his own guilty conscience.”
+
+
+
+
+44.
+
+     Outfit of a trapper--Risks to which he is subjected--
+     Partnership of trappers--Enmity of Indians--Distant smoke--A
+     country on fire--Gun Greek--Grand Rond--Fine pastures--
+     Perplexities in a smoky country--Conflagration of forests.
+
+IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along
+Snake River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this
+way a range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body.
+The outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder,
+and four pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe,
+a hatchet, a knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where
+supplies are plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two
+or three horses, to carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two
+trappers commonly go together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and
+support; a larger party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians.
+It is a service of peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for
+the Indians, since they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries
+with the traders, have learned the value of the beaver, and look
+upon the trappers as poachers, who are filching the riches from their
+streams, and interfering with their market. They make no hesitation,
+therefore, to murder the solitary trapper, and thus destroy a
+competitor, while they possess themselves of his spoils. It is
+with regret we add, too, that this hostility has in many cases been
+instigated by traders, desirous of injuring their rivals, but who have
+themselves often reaped the fruits of the mischief they have sown.
+
+When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of
+proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can
+graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a
+cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening,
+and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at
+daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch
+the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up
+before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior
+style; the tail is the trapper’s tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end
+of a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than
+the tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo.
+
+With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot
+always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered,
+perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen
+curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages,
+whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they
+are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times,
+they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps,
+have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of
+one of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time
+to time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are
+found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless
+stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small
+streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate
+trappers that have been murdered on their banks.
+
+A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present
+instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended;
+for his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck
+Indians were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great
+distance, so that they would be apt to detect and cut off any
+stragglers. It behooved him, also, to keep his party together, to guard
+against any predatory attack upon the main body; he continued on his
+way, therefore, without dividing his forces. And fortunate it was that
+he did so; for in a little while he encountered one of the phenomena of
+the western wilds that would effectually have prevented his scattered
+people from finding each other again. In a word, it was the season of
+setting fire to the prairies. As he advanced he began to perceive great
+clouds of smoke at a distance, rising by degrees, and spreading over the
+whole face of the country. The atmosphere became dry and surcharged
+with murky vapor, parching to the skin, and irritating to the eyes. When
+travelling among the hills, they could scarcely discern objects at the
+distance of a few paces; indeed, the least exertion of the vision was
+painful. There was evidently some vast conflagration in the direction
+toward which they were proceeding; it was as yet at a great distance,
+and during the day they could only see the smoke rising in larger and
+denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense canopy. At night the
+skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen fires, hanging in
+an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon.
+
+Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left,
+Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and
+avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the
+Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope
+for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game
+might be scarce.
+
+During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke
+continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish
+the face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the
+travellers fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters
+of the Fourche de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand
+Rond. Here they found all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast
+conflagration; which swept over the long grass in billows of flame, shot
+up every bush and tree, rose in great columns from the groves, and set
+up clouds of smoke that darkened the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of
+fire, the travellers had to pursue their course close along the foot
+of the mountains; but the irritation from the smoke continued to be
+tormenting.
+
+The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into
+broad and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain
+springs and rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of
+the Skynses, to pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the
+salmon which abound in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in
+great quantities and without the least difficulty; simply taking them
+out of the water with their hands, as they flounder and struggle in
+the numerous long shoals of the principal streams. At the time the
+travellers passed over these prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams
+by which they were intersected were completely choked with salmon, which
+they took in great numbers. The wolves and bears frequent these streams
+at this season, to avail themselves of these great fisheries.
+
+The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great
+difficulties and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed
+to embrace the whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the
+time obscured by the smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from
+view. Blundering along in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were
+frequently obliged to make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they
+could not perceive until close upon them. The Indian trails were their
+safest guides, for though they sometimes appeared to lead them out of
+their direct course, they always conducted them to the passes.
+
+On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River.
+Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes
+its way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable,
+and appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce
+language, an intercourse was easily kept up with them.
+
+In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped
+for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses.
+Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search
+for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or
+Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and
+discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain
+defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and
+precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of
+frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of
+these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have
+been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree,
+from which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were
+not the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration
+of the country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was
+still more awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames
+which swept rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed
+a fiercer character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and
+ravines of the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up
+sheets of flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that
+in the night made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and
+forests, too, which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns
+of fire, and added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these
+stupendous sights were combined the rushing blasts caused by the
+rarefied air, which roared and howled through the narrow glens, and
+whirled forth the smoke and flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon,
+too, was heard the crash of falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags
+and precipices, with tremendous sounds.
+
+In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and
+blinding, that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only
+find each other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way
+through the yet burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and
+trunks of trees, which frequently fell across their path. At length
+they gave up the attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual
+circumstances, and made their way back to the camp to report their
+failure.
+
+
+
+
+45.
+
+     The Skynses--Their traffic--Hunting--Food--Horses--A horse-
+     race--Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads--Prayers--Exhortations--A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes--A new
+     light.
+
+DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been
+kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into
+the neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of
+the Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with
+the Hudson’s Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the
+articles of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to
+the trading posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal
+traffic with the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep
+in distant and unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture
+near the trading houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally;
+and depend, for a part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence,
+however, is upon roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said
+to be of a delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it
+up in great quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter
+provisions. It grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains.
+
+This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles
+among them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of
+Captain Bonneville’s men; offering a couple of good running horses for
+a light rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured
+from them on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a
+breed infinitely superior to any in the United States. They are fond of
+trying their speed and bottom, and of betting upon them.
+
+As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit
+of their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of
+speed between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to
+be well matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a
+half out and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead
+by a few hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the
+Shoshonie and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they
+went head and head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the
+race with great ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over.
+
+The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong
+devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some
+of the resident personages of the Hudson’s Bay Company. Sunday is
+invariably kept sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their
+camp on that day, unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither
+will they hunt, nor fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on
+that day. A part of it is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies.
+Some chief, who is generally at the same time what is called a “medicine
+man,” assembles the community. After invoking blessings from the Deity,
+he addresses the assemblage, exhorting them to good conduct; to be
+diligent in providing for their families; to abstain from lying and
+stealing; to avoid quarrelling or cheating in their play, and to be
+just and hospitable to all strangers who may be among them. Prayers
+and exhortations are also made, early in the morning, on week days.
+Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from horseback; moving slowly
+about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his exhortations with
+a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen with profound
+attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word in unison,
+apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and exhortations
+are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If an Indian
+is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and attends with
+reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his prayer
+or exhortation, he says, “I have done,” upon which there is a general
+exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably derived
+from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of their old
+Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or ballad,
+which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose.
+Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the
+Roman Catholic Church.
+
+Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor
+savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and
+effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not
+merely from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from
+that of Mr. Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the
+Flatheads. “During the time I have been with them,” says he, “I have
+never known an instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to
+a bead or pin, is brought to you, if found; and often, things that have
+been thrown away. Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This
+absence of all quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the
+various occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the
+crowding together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have
+to be driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the
+morning; the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty.
+All this, however, is done without confusion or disturbance.
+
+“They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed
+in their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one
+speaks, the rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents
+by ‘yes,’ or dissents by ‘no;’ and then states his reasons, which are
+listened to with equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable
+than any other children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor
+any quarrelling; although there were, at least, five hundred of them
+together, and continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit,
+they are brave when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal
+number of Blackfeet.”
+
+The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative
+to the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain
+Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion,
+in conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the
+cultivation of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between
+their peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes,
+and attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He
+frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always
+enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed
+that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present.
+
+The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable
+degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead
+them, Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain;
+the country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the
+raising of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling
+assistance from government, to protect them from the predatory and
+warlike tribes, might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the
+midst of the great western wilderness, who would “wear the Americans
+near their hearts.”
+
+We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity
+of this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all
+ardently addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar
+day for recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of
+season. After prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an
+hour in the day, says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several
+horses racing at full speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups
+of gamblers, ready to stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of
+hand. The Indians, says Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with
+more zest than the whites. They are great gamblers; and in proportion to
+their means, play bolder and bet higher than white men.
+
+The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the
+savages, has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more
+knowing traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them
+by being considered “medicine men;” that is, men gifted with mysterious
+knowledge. This feeling is also at times played upon by religious
+charlatans, who are to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One
+of these was noted by Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads.
+A new great man, says he, is rising in the camp, who aims at power
+and sway. He covers his designs under the ample cloak of religion;
+inculcating some new doctrines and ceremonials among those who are more
+simple than himself. He has already made proselytes of one-fifth of
+the camp; beginning by working on the women, the children, and the
+weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on the plain, to their own
+vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe look on and laugh;
+thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will soon find that
+women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every community,
+and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be
+considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of
+the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or
+branches off and sets up an independent chief and “medicine man.”
+
+
+
+
+46.
+
+     Scarcity in the camp--Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s
+     Bay Company--Conduct of the Indians--A hungry retreat--John
+     Day’s River--The Blue Mountains--Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country--Bear River Valley--
+     immense migration of buffalo--Danger of buffalo hunting--A
+     wounded Indian--Eutaw Indians--A “surround” of antelopes.
+
+PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville
+found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore,
+of his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing
+a low range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais.
+Being now within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of
+the Hudson’s Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither
+to purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well
+received at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily
+refused. Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave
+their present employ, and enter into the service of the company; but
+they were not to be seduced.
+
+When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he
+ordered an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He
+pushed forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal
+to the Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the
+Wallah-Wallah. His route lay through a beautiful undulating country,
+covered with horses belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for
+pasturage.
+
+On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with
+the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they
+kept aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered
+that they were under the influence of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who had
+forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded
+along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of
+provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length
+obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people.
+He now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and
+beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a
+little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble
+valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance
+under present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources
+of the country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous
+and powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely
+hope to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any
+longer in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and
+cut off their retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to
+reach the Blue Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the
+bighorn; and after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they
+might push through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by
+snow. Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly
+turned his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue
+Mountains. He took his course up John Day’s River, so called from one
+of the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at
+his heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of
+October. He entered by the opening made by John Day’s River; it was a
+rugged and difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed
+to hard scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had
+extinguished the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the
+mountains, no longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur
+and sublimity to the eye.
+
+They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in
+the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning
+from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them.
+It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to
+keep the party from starvation.
+
+To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for
+ten days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much
+perplexity, they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following
+the course of which, they were sure to reach their place of destination.
+
+It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon
+this noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty
+numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its
+banks to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for
+winter provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense
+quantities of fish drying upon them. At this season of the year,
+however, the salmon are extremely poor, and the travellers needed their
+keen sauce of hunger to give them a relish.
+
+In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead
+salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the
+fetid odor of which tainted the air.
+
+It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf
+that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the
+buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days,
+slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an
+enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found
+good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard
+travelling.
+
+During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be
+messengers sent express for supplies from Montero’s party; which had
+been sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter
+on the Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but
+that they had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission,
+and were still in the Crow country, where they should remain until
+joined by Captain Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the
+messengers with him until the 17th of November, when, having reached the
+caches on Bear River, and procured thence the required supplies, he sent
+them back to their party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of
+June following, on the forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country.
+
+He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having
+discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased
+from them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and
+arranged with them to encamp together during the winter.
+
+The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the
+upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it
+as long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which
+would be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but
+slowly, merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his
+position. The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow
+lay to a considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried
+meat as possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage
+that could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to
+move slowly toward their winter quarters.
+
+They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the
+present winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the
+buffaloes before the snow had become deep, immense herds now came
+trooping over the mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from
+which their deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and
+mutterings from a gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke,
+and down came the torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly
+impossible, according to Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the
+effect produced by the sight of such countless throngs of animals of
+such bulk and spirit, all rushing forward as if swept on by a whirlwind.
+
+The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor
+to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party,
+finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without
+either rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was
+passing close by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such
+lucky aim as to bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but
+hunger had made him almost desperate.
+
+The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded
+in particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a
+bull produces no other effect than a toss of the head and greater
+exasperation; on the contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow
+is fatal. Several instances occurred during this great hunting bout,
+of bulls fighting furiously after having received mortal wounds.
+Wyeth, also, was witness to an instance of the kind while encamped
+with Indians. During a grand hunt of the buffaloes, one of the Indians
+pressed a bull so closely that the animal turned suddenly on him. His
+horse stopped short, or started back, and threw him. Before he could
+rise the bull rushed furiously upon him, and gored him in the chest so
+that his breath came out at the aperture. He was conveyed back to the
+camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself up for slain, he called
+round him his friends, and made his will by word of mouth. It was
+something like a death chant, and at the end of every sentence those
+around responded in concord. He appeared no ways intimidated by the
+approach of death. “I think,” adds Wyeth, “the Indians die better than
+the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the future.”
+
+The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the
+leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and
+move off from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles
+distant.
+
+The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now
+snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the
+winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual
+carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of
+the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with
+the appetite of a hunting camp.
+
+The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer.
+These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as
+the winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the
+report of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering
+in the air, no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of
+the wolves would peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the
+hunter’s departure to pounce upon the carcass.
+
+Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the
+valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a
+band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They
+are a poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these
+regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root
+Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few
+rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows.
+
+As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of
+old grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was
+feared some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore,
+undertook the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs,
+inviting them to a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a
+reconciliation. His invitation was proudly declined; whereupon he
+went to them in person, and succeeded in effecting a suspension of
+hostilities until the chiefs of the two tribes could meet in
+council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly acquiesced in the
+arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill tops, and watch
+their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain below, and
+evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish. The
+worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent
+mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet
+buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united
+and mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would
+occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows
+would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the
+chiefs wisely took no notice of these individual brawls.
+
+One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of
+several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance.
+This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in
+ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin
+of the antelope. It was determined to have “a surround,” as the mode of
+hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic
+solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms
+each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally
+with the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of
+animals which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries.
+After much grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed
+that all who were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should
+muster for “the surround.” When all had congregated, they moved in rude
+procession to the nearest point of the valley in question, and there
+halted. Another course of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians
+are so fond, took place among the chiefs. Directions were then issued
+for the horsemen to make a circuit of about seven miles, so as to
+encompass the herd. When this was done, the whole mounted force dashed
+off simultaneously, at full speed, shouting and yelling at the top of
+their voices. In a short space of time the antelopes, started from
+their hiding-places, came bounding from all points into the valley. The
+riders, now gradually contracting their circle, brought them nearer and
+nearer to the spot where the senior chief, surrounded by the elders,
+male and female, were seated in supervision of the chase. The antelopes,
+nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and bewildered by perpetual
+whooping, made no effort to break through the ring of the hunters, but
+ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and child beat them down
+with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of antelope hunting,
+technically called “a surround.”
+
+
+
+
+47.
+
+     A festive winter--Conversion of the Shoshonies--Visit of two
+     free trappers--Gayety in the camp--A touch of the tender
+     passion--The reclaimed squaw--An Indian fine lady--An
+     elopement--A pursuit--Market value of a bad wife.
+
+GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was
+overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches,
+buffalo tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire;
+and the whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast
+meat. It was, indeed, a continual “feast of fat things,” and though
+there might be a lack of “wine upon the lees,” yet we have shown that a
+substitute was occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol.
+
+Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great
+propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from
+their good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but
+then, they always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference
+and respect, and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of
+feats of activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward
+each other, also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville
+reason to hope that all past animosity was effectually buried.
+
+The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social
+manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form.
+The senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of
+observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new
+code of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended
+their devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in
+elevating the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined,
+by the same means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their
+ignorant rivals, the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and
+promulgated among them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the
+Nez Perces; recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were
+struck with the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it
+with spirit. They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have
+their devotional dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about
+which the ignorant Eutaws knew nothing; while they exerted their usual
+competition in shooting and horseracing, and the renowned game of hand.
+
+Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley
+community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free
+trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds
+as fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks’ bells,
+came galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp.
+
+They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company,
+in the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of
+Captain Bonneville’s company a visit. An idea may be formed from the
+scenes we have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the
+manner in which these game birds were received by those of their
+feather in the camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting,
+what bragging, what ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and
+squabbling and fighting, ensued among these boon companions. Captain
+Bonneville, it is true, maintained always a certain degree of law and
+order in his camp, and checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in
+their seasons of idleness and relaxation require a degree of license and
+indulgence, to repay them for the long privations and almost incredible
+hardships of their periods of active service.
+
+In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender
+passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among
+the Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free
+trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These
+connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue
+for years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free
+trapper starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition.
+
+In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain
+their belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their
+protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all
+that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race--whose gait, and
+garb, and bravery he emulates--with all that is gallant and glorious
+in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats her, the
+finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves, the sway
+she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the drudge
+and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and build his
+lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry blows.
+No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the
+wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave.
+
+With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. ‘The
+beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken
+prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily
+ransomed for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured
+about the camp in fine array, “with rings on her fingers, and bells
+on her toes,” and a tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy,
+admiration, and abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working
+squaws of her acquaintance.
+
+As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become
+the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of
+older date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his
+household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was
+the wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his
+eyes. All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the
+very proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of
+the trapper was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He
+endeavored to prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His
+horses were fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight
+they would be beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment
+in Green River Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at
+defiance.
+
+The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease
+and splendor of condition of a trapper’s bride, and throbbed to be free
+from the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the
+failure of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted;
+the Indian girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with
+his thwarted passion.
+
+Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of
+the Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his
+lodge, with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At
+night, as the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered
+at the door of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She
+was ready to follow whithersoever he should lead.
+
+In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift
+of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up
+and saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over
+the snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of
+escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse
+before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and
+prairies be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the
+present, however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses
+forward over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every
+blast, they heard the yell of the pursuer.
+
+At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his
+swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of
+the fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds,
+however, which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the
+prints made by the horses’ hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of
+them, and was completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the
+situation of the camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course
+through the mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the
+fugitives. Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his
+course by day and night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It
+was some time before the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had
+they traversed the wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and
+fatigue, and their horses faltering under them. The first object that
+met their eyes on entering the camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed,
+knife in hand, to plunge it in the heart that had proved false to him.
+The trapper threw himself before the cowering form of his mistress,
+and, exhausted as he was, prepared for a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie
+paused. His habitual awe of the white man checked his arm; the trapper’s
+friends crowded to the spot, and arrested him. A parley ensued. A kind
+of crim. con. adjudication took place; such as frequently occurs
+in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared to be a fair
+compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost her heart;
+with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion. He
+returned to Captain Bonneville’s camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is true;
+but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing that
+two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife.
+
+
+
+
+48.
+
+     Breaking up of winter quarters--Move to Green River--A
+     trapper and his rifle--An arrival in camp--A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress--Story of a Blackfoot belle.
+
+THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills,
+and from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping
+had arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who
+brought away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April
+(1835), the camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white
+men and their allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many
+regrets and sincere expressions of good-will; for their intercourse
+throughout the winter had been of the most friendly kind.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham’s Fork, and reached the
+Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they
+remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were
+conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their
+vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant
+precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such
+dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle
+even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he
+takes it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him,
+ready to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly
+as a citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend
+and protector.
+
+On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind
+River Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to
+give their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey;
+for it was Captain Bonneville’s intention to shape his course to the
+settlements; having already been detained by the complication of his
+duties, and by various losses and impediments, far beyond the time
+specified in his leave of absence.
+
+While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River
+Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and
+accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty
+hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had
+abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper;
+whom they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and
+baggage, and an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate
+prairie. The horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this
+helpless pair, and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their
+effects to the camp.
+
+The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress,
+especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately
+dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day
+they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart
+mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot
+beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper’s
+bride.
+
+Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain
+Bonneville entered into conversation with her, and obtained from
+her many particulars concerning the habits and customs of her tribe;
+especially their wars and huntings. They pride themselves upon being the
+“best legs of the mountains,” and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done
+in spring time, when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The
+heavy buffaloes then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily
+overtaken by the Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the
+surface. It is said, however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side
+of the Rocky Mountains are fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic
+side; those upon the plains of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by
+a horse that would outstrip the same animal in the neighborhood of the
+Platte, the usual hunting ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of
+further conversation, Captain Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her
+whole story; which gave a picture of savage life, and of the drudgery
+and hardships to which an Indian wife is subject.
+
+“I was the wife,” said she, “of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served
+him faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well
+provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed
+water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat
+cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay
+him. I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the
+trouble of speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs
+and warriors smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things,
+in secret; but my feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see
+nothing but him.
+
+“When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I?
+When he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered
+without further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses;
+tied them to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his
+feet. If his moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which
+were dry and warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase.
+He could never say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the
+antelope, and the buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else
+was done by me. When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse
+and rode away; free as though he had fallen from the skies. He had
+nothing to do with the labor of the camp; it was I that packed the
+horses and led them on the journey. When we halted in the evening,
+and he sat with the other braves and smoked, it was I that pitched his
+lodge; and when he came to eat and sleep, his supper and his bed were
+ready.
+
+“I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on
+his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his
+wife.
+
+“Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how
+I was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant
+and fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother
+was not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps
+death. At length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the
+village. He pointed away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in
+peace among them. We parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the
+Nez Perces before me. I paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on;
+but my horse neighed, and I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to
+gallop forward. In a little while I was in the midst of the lodges. As
+I sat silent on my horse, the people gathered round me, and inquired
+whence I came. I told my story. A chief now wrapped his blanket close
+around him, and bade me dismount. I obeyed. He took my horse to lead him
+away. My heart grew small within me. I felt, on parting with my horse,
+as if my last friend was gone. I had no words, and my eyes were dry. As
+he led off my horse a young brave stepped forward. ‘Are you a chief of
+the people?’ cried he. ‘Do we listen to you in council, and follow
+you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp from the dogs of
+Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your face! The stranger
+is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a warrior at her
+side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse. But he is
+yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!’--his bow was
+drawn, and the arrow ready!--‘you never shall cross his back!’ The arrow
+pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead.
+
+“An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my
+heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears;
+like the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the
+days passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in
+praise of the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace.
+
+“A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for
+his wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and
+I have taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this
+way, some of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses
+of the party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The
+guns were laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white
+men attempted to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began.
+The snow was deep, the white men sank into it at every step; but the
+red men, with their snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and
+drove off many of the horses in sight of their owners. With those that
+remained we resumed our journey. At length words took place between the
+leader of the party and my husband. He took away our horses, which had
+escaped in the battle, and turned us from his camp. My husband had one
+good friend among the trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had
+asked assistance for them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he
+came in from hunting, and found that we had been driven away, he gave up
+all his wages, and followed us, that he might speak good words for us to
+the white captain.”
+
+
+
+
+49.
+
+     Rendezvous at Wind River--Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country--Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet--Death--of Arapooish--Blackfeet lurkers--Sagacity
+     of the horse--Dependence of the hunter on his horse--Return
+     to the settlements.
+
+ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the
+forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he
+was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the
+preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to
+the Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions;
+after trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder
+River. Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated
+him with unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter
+quarters among them.
+
+The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their
+old enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the
+flower of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest,
+Arapooish, the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous
+chief had beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in
+his tribe, and that it was declining in force, and must eventually
+be destroyed unless some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its
+fortunes. In a pitched battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his
+warriors, urging them to set everything at hazard in one furious charge;
+which done, he led the way into the thickest of the foe. He was
+soon separated from his men, and fell covered with wounds, but his
+self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet were defeated; and
+from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and were frequently
+successful.
+
+Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that
+the Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters
+came galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy
+was at hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed
+out in squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the
+midst of a plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage
+of numbers, and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the
+Blackfeet were slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of
+willows, where the horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows
+vigorously.
+
+The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
+bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best
+mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then
+advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which
+the tribe is noted. When within an arrow’s flight of the thicket, he
+loosened his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the
+opposite side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe;
+in this way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows
+from under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle,
+he wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions,
+who received him with yells of applause.
+
+Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet
+were not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared
+to drive desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt
+the thicket. Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned
+all-glorious with the scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts
+and triumphs, the scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies,
+and all the other fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves
+had finished with the scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women
+and children, and made the objects of new parades and dances. They were
+then treasured up as invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves
+who had won them.
+
+It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through
+policy or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The
+warrior who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such
+case, the war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down,
+and the shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and
+abandoned to the triumph and insults of the million.
+
+To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape
+from the extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be
+oppressive, Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their
+camps, and there formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a
+vigilant watch at night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze
+during the day, under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut
+up in strong pens, built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during
+a portion of the winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find
+but little sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above
+the snow; but they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender
+branches of the trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the
+first moments of freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in
+frisking and gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work,
+to glean their scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men
+stripped the bark of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the
+poor horses would return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air,
+the moment they saw their owners approaching them with blankets filled
+with cotton-wood bark, their whole demeanor underwent a change. A
+universal neighing and capering took place; they would rush forward,
+smell to the blankets, paw the earth, snort, whinny and prance round
+with head and tail erect, until the blankets were opened, and the
+welcome provender spread before them. These evidences of intelligence
+and gladness were frequently recounted by the trappers as proving the
+sagacity of the animal.
+
+These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some
+respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced
+trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times
+of peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the
+horses. No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their
+notice, and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said,
+will even indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the
+danger threatens.
+
+In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting
+up the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse
+as a sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him,
+and by his starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of
+strangers. There seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of
+fraternal sympathy between the hunter and his horse. They mutually
+rely upon each other for company and protection; and nothing is more
+difficult, it is said, than to surprise an experienced hunter on the
+prairie while his old and favorite steed is at his side.
+
+Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows,
+and fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders
+discovered his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a
+vigilant watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who,
+at length, seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the
+neighborhood. The trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one
+night, after a day of severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole
+camp was soon asleep. Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers
+were roused by the trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole
+party were immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars
+were down; but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being
+all found hard by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through
+negligence. All were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was
+a second alarm, and it was discovered that several horses were missing.
+The rest were mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that
+eighteen of the number carried off were regained, and but three remained
+in possession of the enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about
+the camp the preceding day. In the morning it was discovered that a
+Blackfoot was entrapped by one of them, but had succeeded in dragging
+it off. His trail was followed for a long distance which he must have
+limped alone. At length he appeared to have fallen in with some of his
+comrades, who had relieved him from his painful encumbrance.
+
+These were the leading incidents of Montero’s campaign in the Crow
+country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough
+hunters’ style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville
+made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers
+to open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue
+of his men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not
+detail his journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point
+to point of the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier
+settlements on the 22d of August.
+
+Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken
+for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged
+almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during
+three years of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous
+town, however, produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample
+brim and longest nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and
+pantaloons of the most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn
+trapper’s equipments; and the happy wearers might be seen strolling
+about in all directions, scattering their silver like sailors just from
+a cruise.
+
+The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
+excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged
+resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back
+to the wilderness with regret. “Though the prospect,” says he, “of once
+more tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and
+nights under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its
+attractions; yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in
+the stirring excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in
+the wilderness, the change was far from promising an increase of that
+contentment and inward satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who,
+like myself, has roved almost from boyhood among the children of the
+forest, and over the unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western
+wastes, will not be startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the
+fascinations of the world on this civilized side of the mountains, I
+would fain make my bow to the splendors and gayeties of the metropolis,
+and plunge again amidst the hardships and perils of the wilderness.”
+
+We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
+satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually
+in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may
+meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of
+collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds
+and their motley inhabitants.
+
+We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild
+inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have
+been anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular
+state of things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great
+changes, if not entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has
+given life to all this portraiture, is essentially evanescent.
+Rival parties of trappers soon exhaust the streams, especially when
+competition renders them heedless and wasteful of the beaver. The
+furbearing animals extinct, a complete change will come over the scene;
+the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out in wild array, and
+tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war chief, plumed and
+painted and ever on the prowl; the traders’ cavalcade, winding through
+defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party lurking on its
+trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse in the
+midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the fierce
+skirmish among rocks and cliffs--all this romance of savage life, which
+yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in frontier story,
+and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale.
+
+Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed
+among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite,
+perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain
+of mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either
+side, are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which
+prevails there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under
+the aridity of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes.
+An immense belt of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several
+hundred miles in width, must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness,
+intervening between the abodes of civilization, and affording a last
+refuge to the Indian. Here roving tribes of hunters, living in tents
+or lodges, and following the migrations of the game, may lead a life of
+savage independence, where there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the
+white man. The amalgamation of various tribes, and of white men of every
+nation, will in time produce hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of
+the Caucasus. Possessed as they are of immense droves of horses should
+they continue their present predatory and warlike habits, they may in
+time become a scourge to the civilized frontiers on either side of the
+mountains, as they are at present a terror to the traveller and trader.
+
+The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of
+establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders
+in their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the
+outposts into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid
+open, so as to maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put
+an end to the kind of “blackmail,” levied on all occasions by the savage
+“chivalry of the mountains.”
+
+
+
+
+Appendix
+
+Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West
+
+WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western
+campaigning; yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some
+particulars concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth;
+anecdotes of whose enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in
+the party-colored web of our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of
+establishing a trading post on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall.
+Here, for the first time, the American flag was unfurled to the breeze
+that sweeps the great naked wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving
+twelve men here, with a stock of goods, to trade with the neighboring
+tribes, he prosecuted his journey to the Columbia; where he established
+another post, called Fort Williams, on Wappatoo Island, at the mouth
+of the Wallamut. This was to be the head factory of his company; whence
+they were to carry on their fishing and trapping operations, and their
+trade with the interior; and where they were to receive and dispatch
+their annual ship.
+
+The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had
+observed that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free
+trappers, as well as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for
+their supplies upon goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence
+of the expenses and risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them
+at an immense advance on first cost. He had an idea that they might be
+much more cheaply supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost
+much less on the borders of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the
+transportation by land was much shorter; and through a country much more
+safe from the hostility of savage tribes; which, on the route from and
+to St. Louis, annually cost the lives of many men. On this idea, he
+grounded his plan. He combined the salmon fishery with the fur trade. A
+fortified trading post was to be established on the Columbia, to carry
+on a trade with the natives for salmon and peltries, and to fish and
+trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship was to come from the
+United States, to bring out goods for the interior trade, and to take
+home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part of the goods,
+thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to supply the
+trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their furs;
+which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in
+the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The
+profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses
+of the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home,
+would cost nothing as to freight.
+
+His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
+perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met
+with, prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to
+conceive, and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had
+once more reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria;
+and had he been enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly
+effected, he might have regained for his country the opulent trade of
+the Columbia, of which our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be
+dispossessed.
+
+It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and
+cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such
+as all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea
+and land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital
+to enable him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold
+on until success had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous
+experiments.
+
+It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled
+to dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson’s
+Bay Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own
+account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great
+fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still
+maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the
+Columbia and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered
+powers permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr.
+Astor, when he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia.
+From their emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every
+direction, to supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and
+to trap upon the various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse
+the plains, penetrate to the heart of the mountains, extend their
+enterprises northward, to the Russian possessions, and southward, to the
+confines of California. Their yearly supplies are received by sea, at
+Vancouver; and thence their furs and peltries are shipped to London.
+They likewise maintain a considerable commerce, in wheat and
+lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north, with the Russian
+settlements.
+
+Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in
+the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance;
+yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight,
+and subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish
+a monopoly of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are
+adroitly proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by
+securing all the strong points of the country.
+
+Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of
+the main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept
+up as a fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to
+shipping have been taken possession of, and posts recently established
+at them by the company.
+
+The great capital of this association; their long established system;
+their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal
+organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a
+machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians,
+give them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely
+the latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until
+the question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries.
+The sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious
+to national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and
+every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it.
+
+The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the
+Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country.
+Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being
+rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower
+country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give
+sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great
+population of graziers and agriculturists.
+
+Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which
+the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here,
+the company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its
+superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is
+about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The
+climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while
+the soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri
+lands. The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated
+for a great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for
+the mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature,
+that grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out
+to pasture during the winter.
+
+These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future
+settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the
+embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present
+they lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and
+trapper, present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful
+agriculturists and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem
+with waving crops, or be covered with flocks and herds.
+
+The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company
+restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the
+hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would
+be brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of
+Mr. Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire.
+
+
+
+
+Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast
+
+THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr.
+Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as
+to the manner in which America has been peopled.
+
+“Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese
+junk was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen
+Charlotte’s Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced
+by starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were
+killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson’s
+Bay Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at
+Vancouver, in 1834.”
+
+
+
+
+Instructions to Captain Bonneville
+
+from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States.
+
+Copy
+
+Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831.
+
+Sir,
+
+The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling
+you to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the
+Rocky Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and
+character of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the
+trade which might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the
+soil, the productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate,
+the Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts
+of the Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the
+United States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly
+considered, and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has
+been sanctioned.
+
+You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October
+1833.
+
+It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in
+reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with
+yourself, and all that you required was the permission from the proper
+authority to undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing
+yourself for the expedition, provide suitable instruments, and
+especially the best Maps of the interior to be found. It is desirable
+besides what is enumerated as the object of enterprise that you note
+particularly the number of Warriors that may belong to each tribe, or
+nation that you may meet with: their alliances with other tribes and
+their relative position as to a state of peace or war, and whether their
+friendly or warlike dispositions towards each other are recent or of
+long standing. You will gratify us by describing the manner of their
+making War, of the mode of subsisting themselves during a state of war,
+and a state of peace, their Arms, and the effect of them, whether they
+act on foot or on horse back, detailing the discipline, and manuvers
+of the war parties, the power of their horses, size and general
+discription; in short any information which you may conceive would be
+useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of every opportunity
+of informing us of your position and progress, and at the expiration of
+your leave of absence will join your proper station.
+
+I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St
+
+(Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg
+
+To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
+Washington Irving
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+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
+Washington Irving
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
+       Digested From His Journal
+
+Author: Washington Irving
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2006 [EBook #1372]
+Last Updated: October 12, 2018
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h1>
+      THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE
+    </h1>
+    <h2>
+      Digested from his journal
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      by Washington Irving
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      Originally published in 1837
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> Introductory Notice </a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> 1. -- State of the fur trade of the—Rocky Mountains—American
+     enterprises—General—Ashley and his associates—Sublette, a
+     famous leader—Yearly rendezvous among the mountains—
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade—Bands of trappers—
+     Indian banditti—Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers—Traders
+     of the—Far West—Character and habits of the trapper </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> 2. -- Departure from—Fort Osage—Modes of transportation—Pack-
+     horses—Wagons—Walker and Cerre; their characters—Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies—Wild equipments of
+     the trappers—Their gambols and antics—Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers—Agency
+     of the Kansas—General—Clarke—White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief—Night scene in a trader’s camp—Colloquy between—
+     White Plume and the captain—Bee-hunters—Their
+     expeditions—Their feuds with the Indians—Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> 3. --  Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills—Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River—Scanty fare—Buffalo
+     skulls—Wagons turned into boats—Herds of buffalo—Cliffs
+     resembling castles—The chimney—Scott’s Bluffs Story
+     connected with them—The bighorn or ahsahta—Its nature and
+     habits—Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or
+     goat of the mountains </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> 4. -- An alarm—Crow—Indians—Their appearance—Mode of approach
+     —Their vengeful errand—Their curiosity—Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet—Loving conduct of the Crows—
+     Laramie’s Fork—First navigation of the—Nebraska—Great
+     elevation of the country—Rarity of the atmosphere—Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons—Black Hills—Their wild
+     and broken scenery—Indian dogs—Crow trophies—Sterile and
+     dreary country—Banks of the Sweet Water—Buffalo hunting—
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> 5. --  Magnificent scenery—Wind River—Mountains—Treasury of
+     waters—A stray horse—An Indian trail—Trout streams—The
+     Great Green River Valley—An alarm—A band of trappers—
+     Fontenelle, his information—Sufferings of thirst—
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee—Strategy of rival traders—
+     Fortification of the camp—The—Blackfeet—Banditti of the
+     mountains—Their character and habits </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> 6. -- Sublette and his band—Robert—Campbell—Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of “down-easters”—Yankee enterprise—Fitzpatrick—His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet—A rendezvous of mountaineers—
+     The battle of—Pierre’s Hole—An Indian ambuscade—
+     Sublette’s return </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> 7. -- Retreat of the Blackfeet—Fontenelle’s camp in danger—
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet—Free trappers—Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses—Game fellows
+     of the mountains—Their visit to the camp—Good fellowship
+     and good cheer—A carouse—A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> 8. -- Plans for the winter—Salmon River—Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains—New arrangements—Caches—Cerre’s
+     detachment—Movements in—Fontenelle’s camp—Departure of
+     the—Blackfeet—Their fortunes—Wind—Mountain streams—
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear—Bones of
+     murdered travellers—Visit to Pierre’s Hole—Traces of the
+     battle—Nez—Perce—Indians—Arrival at—Salmon River </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> 9. -- Horses turned loose—Preparations for winter quarters—
+     Hungry times—Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies—Captain Bonneville’s
+     conversations with them—Their love of gambling </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> 10.-- Black Feet in the Horse Prairie—Search after the hunters—
+     Difficulties and dangers—A card party in the wilderness—
+     The card party interrupted—“Old Sledge” a losing game—
+     Visitors to the camp—Iroquois hunters—Hanging-eared
+     Indians </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> 11. -- Rival trapping parties—Manoeuvring—A desperate game—
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet—Deserted camp fire—A dark
+     defile—An Indian ambush—A fierce melee—Fatal
+     consequences—Fitzpatrick and Bridger—Trappers precautions
+     —Meeting with the Blackfeet—More fighting—Anecdote of a
+     young—Mexican and an Indian girl. </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> 12. -- A winter camp in the wilderness—Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians—Scarcity of game—New arrangements in
+     the camp—Detachments sent to a distance—Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped—Sickness among the Indians—
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces—The Captain’s effort
+     as a pacificator—A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war—
+     Robberies, by the Black feet—Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces—A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains—More
+     robberies—The Captain preaches up a crusade—The effect
+     upon his hearers.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> 13. -- Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> 14. -- The party enters the mountain gorge—A wild fastness among
+     hills—Mountain mutton—Peace and plenty—The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding—A free trapper’s wife—Her gala
+     equipments—Christmas in the wilderness. </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> 15. -- A hunt after hunters—Hungry times—A voracious repast—
+     Wintry weather—Godin’s River—Splendid winter scene on the
+     great—Lava Plain of Snake River—Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow—Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman—Encampment on Snake River—Banneck Indians—The
+     horse chief—His charmed life.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> 16. -- Misadventures of Matthieu and his party—Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River—Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet—Heroism of a Nez Perce woman—Enrolled among the
+     braves.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> 17. -- Opening of the caches—Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains—Superstition of an Indian trapper—
+     Godin’s River—Preparations for trapping—An alarm—An
+     interruption—A rival band—Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms—Ingulfed streams—Sublime scenery—A
+     grand buffalo hunt.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> 18. -- Meeting with Hodgkiss—Misfortunes of the Nez Perces—
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado—His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie—Invasion of Black feet—Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope—Their generous enterprise—Their fate—Consternation
+     and despair of the village—Solemn obsequies—Attempt at
+     Indian trade—Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly—Arrangements
+     for autumn—Breaking up of an encampment.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> 19. -- Precautions in dangerous defiles—Trappers’ mode of defence
+     on a prairie—A mysterious visitor—Arrival in Green River
+     Valley—Adventures of the detachments—The forlorn partisan
+     —His tale of disasters.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> 20. -- Gathering in Green River valley—Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders—Rough wassailing among the trappers—Wild blades of
+     the mountains—Indian belles—Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets—Arrival of supplies—Revelry and extravagance
+     —Mad wolves—The lost Indian</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> 21. -- Schemes of Captain Bonneville—The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it—Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> 22. -- The Crow country—A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows—
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man—His fights with
+     the Blackfeet—His elevation—His death—Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief—His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell—Honor among
+     Crows</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> 23. -- Departure from—Green River valley—Popo-Agie—Its course—
+     The rivers into which it runs—Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring—Volcanic tracts in the Crow country—
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River—Sulphur springs—Hidden
+     fires—Colter’s Hell-Wind River—Campbell’s party—
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers—Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller—Nathaniel Wyeth—Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West—Disaster of Campbell’s party—A union of
+     bands—The Bad Pass—The rapids—Departure of Fitzpatrick—
+     Embarkation of peltries—Wyeth and his bull boat—Adventures
+     of Captain—Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains—Adventures
+     in the plain—Traces of Indians—Travelling precautions—
+     Dangers of making a smoke—The rendezvous</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> 24. -- Adventures of the party of ten—The—Balaamite mule—A dead
+     point—The mysterious elks—A night attack—A retreat—
+     Travelling under an alarm—A joyful meeting—Adventures of
+     the other party—A decoy elk—Retreat to an island—A savage
+     dance of triumph—Arrival at Wind River</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> 25. -- Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley—Journey
+     up the Popo Agie—Buffaloes—The staring white bears—The
+     smok—The warm springs—Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains—The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms—
+     Crystal lakes—Ascent of a snowy peak—Sublime prospect—A
+     panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> 26. -- A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent—Alpine
+     scenery—Cascades—Beaver valleys—Beavers at work—Their
+     architecture—Their modes of felling trees—Mode of trapping
+     beaver—Contests of skill—A beaver “up to trap”—Arrival at
+     the Green River caches</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> 27. -- Route toward—Wind River—Dangerous neighborhood—Alarms and
+     precautions—A sham encampment—Apparition of an Indian spy—
+     Midnight move—A mountain defile—The Wind River valley—
+     Tracking a party—Deserted camps—Symptoms of Crows—Meeting
+     of comrades—A trapper entrapped—Crow pleasantry—Crow
+     spies—A decampment—Return to Green River valley—Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick’s party—Their adventures among the Crows—
+     Orthodox Crows </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> 28. --  A region of natural curiosities—The plain of white clay—
+     Hot springs—The Beer Spring—Departure to seek the free
+     trappers—Plain of Portneuf—Lava—Chasms and gullies—
+     Bannack Indians—Their hunt of the buffalo—Hunter’s feast—
+     Trencher heroes—Bullying of an absent foe—The damp
+     comrade—The Indian spy—Meeting with Hodgkiss—His
+     adventures—Poordevil Indians—Triumph of the Bannacks—
+     Blackfeet policy in war</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> 29. -- Winter camp at the Portneuf—Fine springs—The Bannack
+     Indians—Their honesty—Captain—Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition—Christmas—The American—Falls—Wild scenery—
+     Fishing Falls—Snake Indians—Scenery on the Bruneau—View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain—Powder River—
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers—Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs—Vanity at its last shift</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0031"> 30. -- Temperature of the climate—Root Diggers on horseback—An
+     Indian guide—Mountain prospects—The Grand Rond—
+     Difficulties on Snake River—A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains—Sufferings from hunger—Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley—The exhausted traveller</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0032"> 31. -- Progress in the valley—An Indian cavalier—The captain
+     falls into a lethargy—A Nez-Perce patriarch—Hospitable
+     treatment—The bald head—Bargaining—Value of an old plaid
+     cloak—The family horse—The cost of an Indian present</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0033"> 32. -- Nez-Perce camp—A chief with a hard name—The Big Hearts of
+     the East—Hospitable treatment—The Indian guides—
+     Mysterious councils—The loquacious chief—Indian tomb—
+     Grand Indian reception—An Indian feast—Town-criers—
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces—The captain’s attempt at
+     healing.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0034"> 33. -- Scenery of the Way-lee-way—A substitute for tobacco—
+     Sublime scenery of—Snake River—The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin—A Nez-Perce meeting—A stolen skin—The
+     scapegoat dog—Mysterious conferences—The little chief—His
+     hospitality—The captain’s account of the United States—His
+     healing skill</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0035"> 34. -- Fort Wallah-Wallah—Its commander—Indians in its
+     neighborhood—Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement—Religion—Code of laws—Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces—Camash, and other roots—Nez—Perce horses—
+     Preparations for departure—Refusal of supplies—Departure—
+     A laggard and glutton</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0036"> 35. -- The uninvited guest—Free and easy manners—Salutary jokes—
+     A prodigal son—Exit of the glutton—A sudden change in
+     fortune—Danger of a visit to poor relations—Plucking of a
+     prosperous man—A vagabond toilet—A substitute for the very
+     fine horse—Hard travelling—The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt—A beggar on horseback—A catastrophe—Exit
+     of the merry vagabond</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0037"> 36. -- The difficult mountain—A smoke and consultation—The
+     captain’s speech—An icy turnpike—Danger of a false step—
+     Arrival on Snake River—Return to—Portneuf—Meeting of
+     comrades </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0038"> 37. -- Departure for the rendezvous—A war party of Blackfeet—A
+     mock bustle—Sham fires at night—Warlike precautions—
+     Dangers of a night attack—A panic among horses—Cautious
+     march—The Beer Springs—A mock carousel—Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes—A buffalo bait—Arrival at the rendezvous—
+     Meeting of various bands</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0039"> 38. -- Plan of the Salt Lake expedition—Great sandy deserts—
+     Sufferings from thirst—Ogden’s—River—Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages—Thefts at night—A trapper’s revenge—
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience—A murderous victory—
+     Californian mountains—Plains along the—Pacific—Arrival
+     at—Monterey—Account of the place and neighborhood—Lower—
+     California—Its extent—The Peninsula—Soil—Climate—
+     Production—Its settlements by the Jesuits—Their sway over
+     the Indians—Their expulsion—Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment—Sublime scenery—Upper California Missions—
+     Their power and policy—Resources of the country—Designs of
+     foreign nations
+
+</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0040"> 39. -- Gay life at Monterey—Mexican horsemen—A bold dragoon—Use
+     of the lasso—Vaqueros—Noosing a bear—Fight between a bull
+     and a bear—Departure from Monterey—Indian horse stealers—
+     Outrages committed by the travellers—Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0041"> 40. -- Traveller’s tales—Indian lurkers—Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents—The medicine wolf—An alarm—An ambush
+     The captured provant—Triumph of Buckeye—Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse—Arrangements for the year—Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0042"> 41. -- A voyage in a bull boat.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0044"> 42. -- Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia—Advance of
+     Wyeth—Efforts to keep the lead—Hudson’s Bay party—A
+     junketing—A delectable beverage—Honey and alcohol—High
+     carousing—The Canadian “bon vivant”—A cache—A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans—His travelling companions—Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality—An interruption.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0045"> 43. -- A rapid march—A cloud of dust—Wild horsemen—“High Jinks”
+      Horseracing and rifle-shooting—The game of hand—The
+     fishing season—Mode of fishing—Table lands—Salmon
+     fishers—The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge—The Indian
+     girl—The pocket mirror—Supper—Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0046"> 44. -- Outfit of a trapper—Risks to which he is subjected—
+     Partnership of trappers—Enmity of Indians—Distant smoke—A
+     country on fire—Gun Greek—Grand Rond—Fine pastures—
+     Perplexities in a smoky country—Conflagration of forests.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0047"> 45. -- The Shynses—Their traffic—Hunting—Food—Horses—A horse-
+     race—Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads—Prayers—Exhortations—A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes—A new
+     light.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0048"> 46. -- Scarcity in the camp—Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s
+     Bay Company—Conduct of the Indians—A hungry retreat—John
+     Day’s River—The Blue Mountains—Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country—Bear River Valley—
+     immense migration of buffalo—Danger of buffalo hunting—A
+     wounded Indian—Eutaw Indians—A “surround” of antelopes.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0049"> 47. -- A festive winter—Conversion of the Shoshonies—Visit of two
+     free trappers—Gayety in the camp—A touch of the tender
+     passion—The reclaimed squaw—An Indian fine lady—An
+     elopement—A pursuit—Market value of a bad wife.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0050"> 48. -- Breaking up of winter quarters—Move to Green River—A
+     trapper and his rifle—An arrival in camp—A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress—Story of a Blackfoot belle.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0051"> 49. -- Rendezvous at Wind River—Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country—Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet—Death—of Arapooish—Blackfeet lurkers—Sagacity
+     of the horse—Dependence of the hunter on his horse—Return
+     to the settlements.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_APPE"> Appendix </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0053"> Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest
+        Coast </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0054"> Instructions to Captain Bonneville </a>
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Introductory Notice
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria, it
+      was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with the
+      subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at the
+      table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur trade
+      in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various persons
+      of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own great
+      undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to the
+      Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain
+      Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of
+      enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the
+      soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme of
+      the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him may not
+      be unacceptable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old
+      emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his abode
+      in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for the sordid
+      struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy temperament, a
+      festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that made him proof
+      against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar; well acquainted
+      with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics. His book was his
+      elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire, Corneille, or Racine, or
+      of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he forgot the world and all
+      its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer weather, seated under one
+      of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of St. Paul&rsquo;s church in
+      Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by his side, his eyes
+      riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul so engaged, as to lose
+      all consciousness of the passing throng or the passing hour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his father&rsquo;s
+      bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter was somewhat
+      disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He was educated at
+      our national Military Academy at West Point, where he acquitted himself
+      very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which he has ever since
+      continued.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for a
+      number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West. Here
+      he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders, mountain
+      trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so excited by
+      their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their accounts of vast
+      and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an expedition to the Rocky
+      Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart, and an enterprise to
+      explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his ambition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality. Having
+      made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading enterprise
+      beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave of absence,
+      and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the major general in
+      chief, on his offering to combine public utility with his private
+      projects, and to collect statistical information for the War Department
+      concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit in the course
+      of his journeyings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the
+      ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand
+      dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom any
+      thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which
+      belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great
+      focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any
+      scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to
+      meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been
+      his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship for
+      him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain; introduced
+      him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little while an
+      association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised to carry the
+      proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient persons in this
+      association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a youth, had accompanied
+      one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to his commercial
+      establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished himself by his
+      activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr. Seton was one of
+      the American youths who were at Astoria at the time of its surrender to
+      the British, and who manifested such grief and indignation at seeing the
+      flag of their country hauled down. The hope of seeing that flag once more
+      planted on the shores of the Columbia, may have entered into his motives
+      for engaging in the present enterprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition into
+      the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after year
+      elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence expired, yet
+      no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington. He was
+      considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from the army
+      list.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob Astor,
+      at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was then just
+      returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the mountains,
+      and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the hopes of
+      being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn, his
+      wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity and
+      his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like Corporal
+      Trim in his campaigns, he had &ldquo;satisfied the sentiment,&rdquo; and that was all.
+      In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted soldier, and had
+      inherited too much of his father&rsquo;s temperament, to make a scheming
+      trapper, or a thrifty bargainer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that
+      prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and
+      well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service, gave
+      him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open, and engaging;
+      well browned by the sun, and had something of a French expression. He had
+      a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he kept his hat on, the
+      look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but the moment his head was
+      uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a few more years than he was
+      really entitled to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with the
+      Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him a
+      number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled
+      modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of
+      voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature of
+      his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking personage
+      before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of
+      Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow
+      adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered
+      with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing at
+      a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large barrack
+      room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and war
+      dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with
+      pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting. In
+      a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at court,
+      by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his
+      travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he
+      sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of
+      somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures of
+      authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently
+      put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before the
+      world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the mountains,
+      and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red men, among
+      whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress of his
+      character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his susceptibility
+      to the grand and beautiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have
+      occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various sources,
+      especially from the conversations and journals of some of the captain&rsquo;s
+      contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes. I have also
+      given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation, during an
+      excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of civilization; as I
+      before observed, however, the work is substantially the narrative of the
+      worthy captain, and many of its most graphic passages are but little
+      varied from his own language.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his
+      manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I found
+      him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which, I believe,
+      possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary documents of
+      the kind, of being sincere, and being merited.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor, whose
+      anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants, have
+      endeared him to the service as The Soldier&rsquo;s Friend; and whose general
+      amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and unwearied
+      benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The Friend of Man,
+      this work is inscribed, etc.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      WASHINGTON IRVING <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      1.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     State of the fur trade of the&mdash;Rocky Mountains&mdash;American
+     enterprises&mdash;General&mdash;Ashley and his associates&mdash;Sublette, a
+     famous leader&mdash;Yearly rendezvous among the mountains&mdash;
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade&mdash;Bands of trappers&mdash;
+     Indian banditti&mdash;Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers&mdash;Traders
+     of the&mdash;Far West&mdash;Character and habits of the trapper
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr.
+      John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade at
+      the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that
+      enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and of
+      the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its
+      dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have stated,
+      likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government in
+      neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the American
+      flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate himself in
+      the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the post was
+      formally given up by the British government, though still occupied by the
+      Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty in the country has
+      been virtually lost to the United States; and it will cost both
+      governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on that just and
+      rightful footing on which they would readily have been placed had the
+      proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now state a few
+      particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader up to the
+      period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for the
+      circumstances of our narrative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr.
+      Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further
+      attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the
+      Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country. They did
+      not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat surreptitiously
+      attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and their old rivals,
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company; which was carried on at great cost and
+      sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It ended in the ruin of
+      most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and the merging of the
+      relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival association. From that
+      time, the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company enjoyed a monopoly of the Indian trade from
+      the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky Mountains, and for a considerable
+      extent north and south. They removed their emporium from Astoria to Fort
+      Vancouver, a strong post on the left bank of the Columbia River, about
+      sixty miles from its mouth; whence they furnished their interior posts,
+      and sent forth their brigades of trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United
+      States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the
+      great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra
+      incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808,
+      by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped upon
+      the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships sustained by
+      Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other intrepid
+      Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, appeared
+      for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction. The American
+      traders contented themselves with following up the head branches of the
+      Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams on the Atlantic
+      side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those great snow-crowned
+      sierras.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General
+      Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the
+      prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West.
+      In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post on
+      the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year
+      pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of
+      the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name of
+      the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by
+      others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of
+      trapping organized beyond the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and perseverance
+      of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these early expeditions,
+      and first broke their way through a wilderness where everything was
+      calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse the most dreary
+      and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes, uninhabited by
+      man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel savages. They knew
+      nothing of the country beyond the verge of their horizon, and had to
+      gather information as they wandered. They beheld volcanic plains
+      stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled up to the clouds,
+      and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing of their defiles, nor
+      how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They launched themselves in
+      frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither their swift currents would
+      carry them, or what rocks and shoals and rapids they might encounter in
+      their course. They had to be continually on the alert, too, against the
+      mountain tribes, who beset every defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or
+      attacked them in their night encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of
+      trappers that first entered into these regions, three-fifths are said to
+      have fallen by the hands of savage foes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up,
+      originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these we
+      may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William
+      Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of
+      romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various
+      modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold out
+      his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded him was
+      Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has become
+      renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of game
+      descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of Boon,
+      having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian warfare,
+      and killed in one of the contests of the &ldquo;Bloody Ground.&rdquo; We shall
+      frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to the
+      credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name of
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert
+      Campbell were prominent members.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and
+      excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once
+      more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder of
+      the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the
+      company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown, who
+      still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued
+      between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and the
+      trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great
+      tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these
+      formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory
+      enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of
+      adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers, who
+      either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the service
+      of one or other of the main companies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions, from
+      the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish settlements of
+      California, have been traversed and ransacked in every direction by bands
+      of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is scarcely a mountain pass,
+      or defile, that is not known and threaded in their restless migrations,
+      nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by the lonely trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the mountains.
+      Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that is to say,
+      partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move about from
+      place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic they wish to
+      monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they employ in
+      trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands, or &ldquo;brigades&rdquo; as
+      they are termed, of trappers in various directions, assigning to each a
+      portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground. In the months of June
+      and July, when there is an interval between the hunting seasons, a general
+      rendezvous is held, at some designated place in the mountains, where the
+      affairs of the past year are settled by the resident partners, and the
+      plans for the following year arranged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their
+      widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their year&rsquo;s
+      campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to traffic their
+      peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort hither also, to
+      sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their services for the
+      next hunting season.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from
+      its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some
+      experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the
+      resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year&rsquo;s
+      machinery in motion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are
+      anxious to discover each other&rsquo;s plans and movements, they generally
+      contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart. An
+      eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of
+      supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this
+      purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic
+      frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that
+      can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition,
+      scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the
+      greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free
+      trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able,
+      also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to get
+      the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the hunting
+      and trapping grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping
+      competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and
+      outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of
+      the Indian tribes; to cross each other&rsquo;s plans; to mislead each other as
+      to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian
+      trader is the disadvantage of his competitor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of
+      the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their most
+      profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man has
+      opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no idea. The
+      introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful hunters, but at
+      the same time, more formidable foes; some of them, incorrigibly savage and
+      warlike in their nature, have found the expeditions of the fur traders
+      grand objects of profitable adventure. To waylay and harass a band of
+      trappers with their pack-horses, when embarrassed in the rugged defiles of
+      the mountains, has become as favorite an exploit with these Indians as the
+      plunder of a caravan to the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet,
+      who were such terrors in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria,
+      still continue their predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to
+      greater system. They know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to
+      waylay them on their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons,
+      and where to hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper,
+      therefore, is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his
+      weapons in his hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system of
+      things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the trade in
+      furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the expeditions were
+      carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or boatmen were the rank
+      and file in the service of the trader, and even the hardy &ldquo;men of the
+      north,&rdquo; those great rufflers and game birds, were fain to be paddled from
+      point to point of their migrations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A totally different class has now sprung up:&mdash;&ldquo;the Mountaineers,&rdquo; the
+      traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue their
+      hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from place to
+      place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in which they are
+      engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast plains and
+      mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities, seem to make
+      them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial race than the fur
+      traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting &ldquo;men of the north.&rdquo;
+       A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially different from a man who
+      cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly, hardy, lithe, vigorous, and
+      active; extravagant in word, and thought, and deed; heedless of hardship;
+      daring of danger; prodigal of the present, and thoughtless of the future.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and
+      those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter,
+      generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well
+      sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within the reach
+      of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is comparatively
+      free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of the upper
+      wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy, self-dependent
+      and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by chance comes
+      among them on his way to and from the settlements, he is like a game-cock
+      among the common roosters of the poultry-yard. Accustomed to live in
+      tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises the comforts and is
+      impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If his meal is not ready in
+      season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest or prairie, shoots his own
+      game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast. With his horse and his rifle,
+      he is independent of the world, and spurns at all its restraints. The very
+      superintendents at the lower posts will not put him to mess with the
+      common men, the hirelings of the establishment, but treat him as something
+      superior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says Captain
+      Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril, and
+      excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the free
+      trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the
+      trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles a
+      mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his path; in
+      vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose his progress; let
+      but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he forgets all dangers
+      and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be seen with his traps on
+      his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid streams, amidst floating
+      blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be found with his traps swung on
+      his back clambering the most rugged mountains, scaling or descending the
+      most frightful precipices, searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse,
+      and never before trodden by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to
+      his comrades, and where he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the
+      mountaineer, the hardy trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly
+      sketched it, is the wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange
+      and motley populace, now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur
+      trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted with
+      the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the
+      introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their
+      enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far
+      West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      2.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure from&mdash;Fort Osage&mdash;Modes of transportation&mdash;Pack-
+     horses&mdash;Wagons&mdash;Walker and Cerre; their characters&mdash;Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies&mdash;Wild equipments of
+     the trappers&mdash;Their gambols and antics&mdash;Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers&mdash;Agency
+     of the Kansas&mdash;General&mdash;Clarke&mdash;White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief&mdash;Night scene in a trader&rsquo;s camp&mdash;Colloquy between&mdash;
+     White Plume and the captain&mdash;Bee-hunters&mdash;Their
+     expeditions&mdash;Their feuds with the Indians&mdash;Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his
+      departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had
+      enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been in the
+      Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and trappers.
+      Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western wilderness,
+      abound with characters of the kind, ready for any expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions of
+      the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville
+      substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless
+      wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open
+      plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in every
+      direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines cut
+      through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is often
+      necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for the
+      wagons.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville
+      thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing the
+      horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also would
+      be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or being
+      frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would be more
+      easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case of attack
+      in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen, or by four
+      mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition, and
+      provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party, which
+      was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or
+      lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr.
+      J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee,
+      about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit,
+      though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on the
+      frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where he
+      went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated, he
+      engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the Pawnees;
+      then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as sheriff, trader,
+      trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe, in
+      which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size, light
+      complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was
+      considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with
+      Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats and
+      summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies distressing;
+      and before the annual assemblages of people connected with the fur trade
+      should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company and
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of rendezvous for
+      the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, a deep
+      valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain Bonneville
+      intended to shape his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy
+      captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters,
+      trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his
+      face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest
+      spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat
+      high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what then
+      must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated by a
+      residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region of
+      romance!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already
+      experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a
+      renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance and
+      equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half savage.
+      Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their garbs and
+      accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in barbaric style,
+      with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of adventurers on one of
+      these expeditions is always animated and joyous. The welkin rang with
+      their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the savages; and with
+      boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they passed the straggling
+      hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts of the frontier, they
+      would startle their inmates by Indian yells and war-whoops, or regale them
+      with grotesque feats of horsemanship, well suited to their half-savage
+      appearance. Most of these abodes were inhabited by men who had themselves
+      been in similar expeditions; they welcomed the travellers, therefore, as
+      brother trappers, treated them with a hunter&rsquo;s hospitality, and cheered
+      them with an honest God speed at parting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character and
+      quality, between the two classes of trappers, the &ldquo;American&rdquo; and &ldquo;French,&rdquo;
+       as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant to designate
+      the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the trapper of the
+      old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others of the western
+      States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter, softer, more
+      self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife, his lodge, and
+      his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes little heed of
+      landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to think for the common
+      weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed and lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service of
+      the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart of the
+      mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark; can
+      retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most
+      perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can appal
+      him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping the two
+      kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the light
+      fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what he calls the
+      &ldquo;shot-gun.&rdquo; We give these estimates on the authority of a trader of long
+      experience, and a foreigner by birth. &ldquo;I consider one American,&rdquo; said he,
+      &ldquo;equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity, aptness at resources,
+      self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In fact, no one can cope with
+      him as a stark tramper of the wilderness.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville had
+      enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting
+      qualifications he placed great reliance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation, and
+      bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The buoyant
+      and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march gradually
+      subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found the prairies
+      saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain seasons of the
+      year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank deep in the mire,
+      the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed and rider were
+      completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they reached the Kansas
+      River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide, entering the Missouri
+      from the south. Though fordable in almost every part at the end of summer
+      and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to construct a raft for the
+      transportation of the wagons and effects. All this was done in the course
+      of the following day, and by evening, the whole party arrived at the
+      agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under the superintendence of General
+      Clarke, brother of the celebrated traveller of the same name, who, with
+      Lewis, made the first expedition down the waters of the Columbia. He was
+      living like a patriarch, surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all
+      snugly housed, and provided with excellent farms. The functionary next in
+      consequence to the agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and,
+      indeed, indispensable personage in a frontier community. The Kansas
+      resemble the Osages in features, dress, and language; they raise corn and
+      hunt the buffalo, ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at
+      the time of the captain&rsquo;s visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the
+      Nebraska, or Platte River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among
+      these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything
+      minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of
+      excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy with
+      which their race is so often reproached.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The personage who most attracted the captain&rsquo;s attention at this place was
+      &ldquo;White Plume,&rdquo; the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends. White
+      Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited a large
+      stone house, built for him by order of the American government: but the
+      establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style. It might be
+      palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between the stateliness
+      of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the gallant White
+      Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see in the gala
+      equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy at Washington,
+      who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and military coat, in
+      contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging; being grand officer at
+      top, and ragged Indian at bottom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased
+      with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him a
+      day&rsquo;s journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the margin
+      of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by the
+      captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square, at
+      the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval there
+      was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men cooked,
+      ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre of the
+      square, with a guard stationed over them at night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The horses were &ldquo;side lined,&rdquo; as it is termed: that is to say, the fore
+      and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as to
+      be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for a
+      time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to the
+      restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his being
+      easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that is &ldquo;foot
+      free&rdquo; is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it were, a pivot,
+      round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm. The encampment
+      of which we are speaking presented a striking scene. The various
+      mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing, sitting, and
+      reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their weapons: while
+      the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry story was going on.
+      In the middle of the camp, before the principal lodge, sat the two
+      chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in soldier-like communion,
+      the captain delighted with the opportunity of meeting on social terms with
+      one of the red warriors of the wilderness, the unsophisticated children of
+      nature. The latter was squatted on his buffalo robe, his strong features
+      and red skin glaring in the broad light of a blazing fire, while he
+      recounted astounding tales of the bloody exploits of his tribe and himself
+      in their wars with the Pawnees; for there are no old soldiers more given
+      to long campaigning stories than Indian &ldquo;braves.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men;
+      he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders for
+      whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species of
+      hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of the
+      ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western
+      frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the
+      reader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a
+      long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living on
+      new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the
+      harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three,
+      and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and a
+      number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into the
+      wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south, without
+      any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which strictly
+      forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian tribes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the
+      rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their
+      hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich
+      flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion, are
+      migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well
+      experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has
+      passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred
+      miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee
+      go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is but
+      recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or Platte;
+      and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there about the same
+      time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to make a
+      wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches of forest on
+      the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which they have
+      detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any other bee
+      hunter that should come upon their track. When they have marked sufficient
+      to fill all their casks, they turn their faces homeward, cut down the
+      trees as they proceed, and having loaded their wagon with honey and wax,
+      return well pleased to the settlements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the
+      white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its
+      having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their
+      lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them
+      and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden
+      with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the
+      native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut to
+      pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way they can,
+      happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound rib-roasting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made the
+      most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western part
+      of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier, and
+      whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas tribe.
+      According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were pretty
+      fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often treated
+      them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the sweets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of
+      having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity to
+      the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He
+      required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the
+      worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his
+      native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      3.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills&mdash;Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River&mdash;Scanty fare&mdash;Buffalo
+     skulls&mdash;Wagons turned into boats&mdash;Herds of buffalo&mdash;Cliffs
+     resembling castles&mdash;The chimney&mdash;Scott&rsquo;s Bluffs Story
+     connected with them&mdash;The bighorn or ahsahta&mdash;Its nature and
+     habits&mdash;Difference between that and the &ldquo;woolly sheep,&rdquo; or
+     goat of the mountains
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western
+      course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered
+      miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had
+      to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw
+      bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat; the
+      thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning, early, but
+      rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant breezes, however,
+      which sweep these vast plains render the heats endurable. Game was scanty,
+      and they had to eke out their scanty fare with wild roots and vegetables,
+      such as the Indian potato, the wild onion, and the prairie tomato, and
+      they met with quantities of &ldquo;red root,&rdquo; from which the hunters make a very
+      palatable beverage. The only human being that crossed their path was a
+      Kansas warrior, returning from some solitary expedition of bravado or
+      revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp as a trophy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route
+      took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects. The
+      vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical
+      shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have
+      their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to leave
+      flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole country may
+      originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills; but through
+      some process of nature may have sunk to its present level; these insulated
+      eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid rock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of Red
+      River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of country,
+      is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and position of
+      grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by some
+      subterranean agitation. &ldquo;The resemblance,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;which these very
+      remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious in the
+      extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the
+      pre-Adamites.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or
+      Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The
+      low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain
+      Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred yards
+      from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the bottom full
+      of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered with that
+      species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up along the course
+      of this river for several days, they were obliged, from the scarcity of
+      game, to put themselves upon short allowance, and, occasionally, to kill a
+      steer. They bore their daily labors and privations, however, with great
+      good humor, taking their tone, in all probability, from the buoyant spirit
+      of their leader. &ldquo;If the weather was inclement,&rdquo; said the captain, &ldquo;we
+      watched the clouds, and hoped for a sight of the blue sky and the merry
+      sun. If food was scanty, we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon
+      falling in with herds of buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and
+      eat.&rdquo; We doubt whether the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness
+      of his own breast, which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always
+      equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated
+      with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical
+      figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost
+      innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in
+      thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where it
+      divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these branches
+      rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the Arkansas. Up the
+      course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well aware, lay the route
+      to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the northern Mexican
+      settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its sources might lie
+      among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and foam down rugged
+      defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction was in the true
+      course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute his route to the
+      Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from quicksands and other
+      dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this neighborhood, he kept up
+      along the south fork for two days, merely seeking a safe fording place. At
+      length he encamped, caused the bodies of the wagons to be dislodged from
+      the wheels, covered with buffalo hide, and besmeared with a compound of
+      tallow and ashes; thus forming rude boats. In these, they ferried their
+      effects across the stream, which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift
+      and strong current. Three men were in each boat, to manage it; others
+      waded across pushing the barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A
+      march of nine miles took them over high rolling prairies to the north
+      fork; their eyes being regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo
+      at a distance, some careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in
+      the natural meadows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by
+      musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th, a
+      small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of singing
+      birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary of Missouri.
+      After so many days of weary travelling through a naked, monotonous and
+      silent country, it was delightful once more to hear the song of the bird,
+      and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was a beautiful sunset, and a
+      sight of the glowing rays, mantling the tree-tops and rustling branches,
+      gladdened every heart. They pitched their camp in the grove, kindled their
+      fires, partook merrily of their rude fare, and resigned themselves to the
+      sweetest sleep they had enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the
+      river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and wind
+      their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary passes
+      they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom they
+      supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara or Crow
+      Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at night, and to
+      keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged and elevated
+      regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a species larger than the
+      ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and mountainous countries. They
+      had reached also a great buffalo range; Captain Bonneville ascended a high
+      bluff, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding plains. As far as
+      his eye could reach, the country seemed absolutely blackened by
+      innumerable herds. No language, he says, could convey an adequate idea of
+      the vast living mass thus presented to his eye. He remarked that the bulls
+      and cows generally congregated in separate herds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which is
+      among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The lower
+      part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the summit
+      shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet in height,
+      from which it derives its name. The height of the whole, according to
+      Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards. It is composed of
+      indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white sandstone, and may
+      be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated
+      clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches,
+      and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to persuade
+      one&rsquo;s self that the works of art were not mingled with these fantastic
+      freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott&rsquo;s Bluffs, from a
+      melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party were descending
+      the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail barks were
+      overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being thus rendered
+      useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting and had to depend
+      upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After suffering extremely from
+      hunger, they arrived at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, a small tributary of the north
+      branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above the cliffs just mentioned.
+      Here one of the party, by the name of Scott, was taken ill; and his
+      companions came to a halt, until he should recover health and strength
+      sufficient to proceed. While they were searching round in quest of edible
+      roots, they discovered a fresh trail of white men, who had evidently but
+      recently preceded them. What was to be done? By a forced march they might
+      overtake this party, and thus be able to reach the settlements in safety.
+      Should they linger, they might all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott,
+      however, was incapable of moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward,
+      and dreaded that such a clog would prevent their coming up with the
+      advance party. They determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate.
+      Accordingly, under presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be
+      efficacious in his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the
+      trail. They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest,
+      but concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had
+      died of disease.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in
+      company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning
+      skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for the
+      remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where they had
+      abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that
+      immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and
+      picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since
+      borne his name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first
+      time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents
+      these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such
+      scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from
+      crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains,
+      under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower
+      than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice, so
+      high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems a
+      pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations,
+      doubtless from a feeling of security.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often confounded
+      with another animal, the &ldquo;woolly sheep,&rdquo; found more to the northward,
+      about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise inhabits cliffs in
+      summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter. It has white wool,
+      like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long hair; but it has short
+      legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its horns are about five
+      inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as jet, and beautifully
+      polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This animal is by no means so
+      active as the bighorn; it does not bound much, but sits a good deal upon
+      its haunches. It is not so plentiful either; rarely more than two or three
+      are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives a resemblance to the sheep; it is
+      more properly of the flesh is said to have a musty flavor; some have
+      thought the fleece might be valuable, as it is said to be as fine as that
+      of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to be procured in sufficient
+      quantities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a
+      deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep,
+      and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it more
+      sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in the Rocky
+      Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude, quite down to
+      California; generally in the highest regions capable of vegetation;
+      sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least alarm, regains
+      its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous, if not
+      impossible for the hunter to follow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      4.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     An alarm&mdash;Crow&mdash;Indians&mdash;Their appearance&mdash;Mode of approach
+     &mdash;Their vengeful errand&mdash;Their curiosity&mdash;Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet&mdash;Loving conduct of the Crows&mdash;
+     Laramie&rsquo;s Fork&mdash;First navigation of the&mdash;Nebraska&mdash;Great
+     elevation of the country&mdash;Rarity of the atmosphere&mdash;Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons&mdash;Black Hills&mdash;Their wild
+     and broken scenery&mdash;Indian dogs&mdash;Crow trophies&mdash;Sterile and
+     dreary country&mdash;Banks of the Sweet Water&mdash;Buffalo hunting&mdash;
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best hunters
+      in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look out for
+      game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying up the
+      banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving their caps,
+      and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and
+      announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the
+      river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the most
+      roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains;
+      horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of
+      sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for action,
+      and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him in the
+      general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his
+      little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld
+      the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty
+      of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and
+      mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They came
+      prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous evolutions,
+      for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their bright colors, and
+      flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring and sparkling in the
+      morning sunshine, gave them really a striking appearance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and
+      ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct
+      hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a
+      furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left, and
+      wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling like
+      maniacs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching
+      the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the
+      pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship.
+      The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their
+      village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already been
+      five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were determined
+      not to return home until they had sated their revenge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the country
+      at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of Captain
+      Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished at the
+      long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the sight of a
+      cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them to be some
+      kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they carried back
+      to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He had, in
+      consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold the wonders
+      described to him. &ldquo;Now that we have met you,&rdquo; said he to Captain
+      Bonneville, &ldquo;and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our hearts are
+      glad.&rdquo; In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by these people
+      as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen by them before,
+      and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but the calf was the
+      peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it with intense interest
+      as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and were struck with the
+      mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect docility.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must be
+      the &ldquo;great medicine&rdquo; of the white party; an appellation given by the
+      Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded
+      as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture,
+      however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse;
+      their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they
+      declined the bargain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together,
+      and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was well pleased
+      with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the &ldquo;unsophisticated sons of
+      nature,&rdquo; who had so long been objects of his poetic speculations; and
+      indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one of the most notorious of the
+      mountains. The chief, of course, had his scalps to show and his battles to
+      recount. The Blackfoot is the hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom
+      hostility is like a cherished principle of religion; for every tribe,
+      besides its casual antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can
+      be no permanent reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole,
+      are enemies worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first
+      water. As their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they
+      often come in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to
+      keep their wits awake and their passions alive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious
+      character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that they
+      were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was friendly
+      in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their attentions, and
+      had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It was not until after
+      separation on the following morning that the captain and his men
+      ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the course of their
+      fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the pockets of their
+      white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their coats, and, above
+      all, to make free with their hunting knives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain
+      Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47&rsquo; north. The thermometer,
+      at six o&rsquo;clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two
+      o&rsquo;clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o&rsquo;clock in the evening,
+      at seventy degrees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance,
+      printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and
+      threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, a clear and
+      beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an average
+      width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows abounding in
+      currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and clumps of trees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By an observation of Jupiter&rsquo;s satellites, with a Dolland reflecting
+      telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57&rsquo; west
+      of Greenwich.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three years
+      after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell, formerly of
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte from this fork, in
+      skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been discredited, that the
+      river was navigable. About the same time, he built a fort or trading post
+      at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, which he named Fort William, after his friend and
+      partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the Platte has become a
+      highway for the fur traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the great
+      elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the effect
+      of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons. The
+      wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually working
+      out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props to prevent
+      their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one of those great
+      steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity of the atmosphere
+      renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these regions there is a
+      fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is scanty and short, and
+      parches up in the course of the summer, so that there is none for the
+      hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a common observation that
+      &ldquo;above the forks of the Platte the grass does not burn.&rdquo; All attempts at
+      agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood of Fort William have been
+      attended with very little success. The grain and vegetables raised there
+      have been scanty in quantity and poor in quality. The great elevation of
+      these plains, and the dryness of the atmosphere, will tend to retain these
+      immense regions in a state of pristine wildness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and
+      broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their
+      journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines
+      incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the day was
+      spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up ravines,
+      forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging them with
+      ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of their horses
+      were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and stony roads. The
+      travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief storms, which would
+      come hurrying over the hills, or through the mountain defiles, rage with
+      great fury for a short time, and then pass off, leaving everything calm
+      and serene again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs,
+      prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large
+      pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail&mdash;altogether,
+      they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors would
+      keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the first
+      stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they reached
+      some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep a sharp
+      and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers were
+      fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving hangers-on
+      would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the half-picked bones,
+      the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having made a hasty meal, with
+      many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow leisurely on the trail of
+      the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax or catch them, but in vain.
+      Their quick and suspicious eyes caught the slightest sinister movement,
+      and they turned and scampered off. At length one was taken. He was
+      terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled as if expecting instant death.
+      Soothed, however, by caresses, he began after a time to gather confidence
+      and wag his tail, and at length was brought to follow close at the heels
+      of his captors, still, however, darting around furtive and suspicious
+      glances, and evincing a disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path.
+      They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne
+      scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards, to
+      appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had been
+      revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant
+      rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means
+      disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages, and
+      above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They remarked one
+      precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to protect their
+      hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had to pass, they
+      had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the Nebraska
+      or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced to the
+      margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits. One of
+      these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a range of
+      low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore traces of
+      some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto the various
+      strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the southwest, but
+      here everything appeared to have been subverted, and thrown out of place.
+      In many places there were heavy beds of white sandstone resting upon red.
+      Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags and cliffs; and sometimes
+      formed perpendicular walls and overhanging precipices. An air of sterility
+      prevailed over these savage wastes. The valleys were destitute of herbage,
+      and scantily clothed with a stunted species of wormwood, generally known
+      among traders and trappers by the name of sage. From an elevated point of
+      their march through this region, the travellers caught a beautiful view of
+      the Powder River Mountains away to the north, stretching along the very
+      verge of the horizon, and seeming, from the snow with which they were
+      mantled, to be a chain of small white clouds, connecting sky and earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even
+      sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow were
+      to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the travellers
+      were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to a
+      much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains
+      below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current.
+      The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides
+      rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks;
+      then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes
+      impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and
+      rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the
+      Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and
+      making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time
+      over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the Sweet
+      Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five feet deep,
+      flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one of the forks
+      or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now shaped their
+      course for several successive days, tending, generally, to the west. The
+      soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified. Frequently the
+      plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock, sometimes in the shape
+      of a half globe, and from three to four hundred feet high. These singular
+      masses had occasionally a very imposing, and even sublime appearance,
+      rising from the midst of a savage and lonely landscape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more sensible
+      of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more generally
+      capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics, sore lips and
+      mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons also shrank so
+      much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept from falling to
+      pieces. The country bordering upon the river was frequently gashed with
+      deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to avoid which, the travellers
+      were obliged to make wide circuits through the plains. In the course of
+      these, they came upon immense herds of buffalo, which kept scouring off in
+      the van, like a retreating army.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who
+      officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel
+      situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he had
+      suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of the camp.
+      Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his station; and
+      the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their exploits,
+      inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity of their
+      order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting opportunity
+      for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march, all prepared
+      for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung at the pommel
+      of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his shoulder. While in
+      this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in great alarm. In an
+      instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on foot. Finding they
+      were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and pulled [the] trigger.
+      His shot produced no other effect than to increase the speed of the
+      buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his heels, and
+      scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after him, hallooing
+      with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman soon disappeared
+      among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville, who was at the head
+      of the line, and had seen the transaction at a distance, detached a party
+      in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they returned, leading the
+      frightened horse; but though they had scoured the country, and looked out
+      and shouted from every height, they had seen nothing of his rider.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Captain Bonneville knew Tom&rsquo;s utter awkwardness and inexperience, and
+      the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he halted
+      and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt for him
+      in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every
+      direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its
+      course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters
+      returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him
+      in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused
+      shouts of merriment in the camp,&mdash;but Tom for once could not join in
+      the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and
+      apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      5.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Magnificent scenery&mdash;Wind River&mdash;Mountains&mdash;Treasury of
+     waters&mdash;A stray horse&mdash;An Indian trail&mdash;Trout streams&mdash;The
+     Great Green River Valley&mdash;An alarm&mdash;A band of trappers&mdash;
+     Fontenelle, his information&mdash;Sufferings of thirst&mdash;
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee&mdash;Strategy of rival traders&mdash;
+     Fortification of the camp&mdash;The&mdash;Blackfeet&mdash;Banditti of the
+     mountains&mdash;Their character and habits
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight of
+      the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains. He
+      had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along the
+      river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent prospect
+      burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River Mountains, with
+      their bleached and snowy summits towering into the clouds. These stretched
+      far to the north-northwest, until they melted away into what appeared to
+      be faint clouds, but which the experienced eyes of the veteran hunters of
+      the party recognized for the rugged mountains of the Yellowstone; at the
+      feet of which extended the wild Crow country: a perilous, though
+      profitable region for the trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness,
+      with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This,
+      however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or
+      Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering tribe
+      of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the
+      enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous
+      scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him. We
+      can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have
+      contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great
+      fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of those
+      mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles of
+      varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of the
+      Atlantic and the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the
+      whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form,
+      as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length, and
+      from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with eternal
+      snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and
+      rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid
+      streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of the
+      Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give rise to
+      the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the West,
+      that empties its current into the Gulf of California.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters&rsquo; and trappers&rsquo; stories:
+      their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their neighborhood,
+      having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the mountains, and
+      scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It was to the west of
+      these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River,
+      that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt for the purpose of giving
+      repose to his people and his horses after their weary journeying; and of
+      collecting information as to his future course. This Green River valley,
+      and its immediate neighborhood, as we have already observed, formed the
+      main point of rendezvous, for the present year, of the rival fur
+      companies, and the motley populace, civilized and savage, connected with
+      them. Several days of rugged travel, however, yet remained for the captain
+      and his men before they should encamp in this desired resting-place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of the
+      meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little
+      distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself
+      quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of
+      the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal;
+      lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity.
+      After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party, which
+      had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The horse was
+      accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more vigilant watch
+      than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his former owners
+      should be upon the prowl.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of
+      July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets, and the
+      thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the atmosphere
+      continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the wheels were
+      incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length devised. The tire of
+      each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed round the exterior of
+      the felloes, the tire was then made red hot, replaced round the wheel, and
+      suddenly cooled with water. By this means, the whole was bound together
+      with great compactness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the feet
+      of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their peaks,
+      which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above the level
+      of the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and
+      keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most
+      southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march
+      of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running
+      to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they had
+      reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on the
+      western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken. The
+      stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be tributary
+      to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed at some
+      distance to the south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the
+      crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in being
+      the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled provinces of
+      Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the Pacific, with
+      wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader of the Rocky
+      Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously, reached the
+      valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the mountains;
+      but had proceeded with them no further.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one side
+      by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of high
+      hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter in his
+      company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same informant
+      would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet deep, which
+      he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was convinced,
+      however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so wide a valley
+      and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an early hour, on
+      its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day to reach the
+      main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the distant range of
+      western hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making
+      directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at as
+      brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About
+      eleven o&rsquo;clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the
+      rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given;
+      they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured that
+      the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the neighborhood
+      of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some secret
+      fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on the open
+      plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations were immediately
+      made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to reconnoitre. They soon
+      came galloping back, making signals that all was well. The cloud of dust
+      was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted trappers, belonging to the
+      American Fur Company, who soon came up, leading their pack-horses. They
+      were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an experienced leader, or &ldquo;partisan,&rdquo; as a
+      chief of a party is called in the technical language of the trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from the
+      company&rsquo;s trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous, with
+      reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties beyond
+      the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with a band
+      of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen upon the trail
+      of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party, just after leaving the Nebraska; and,
+      finding that they had frightened off all the game, had been obliged to
+      push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men and horses were,
+      therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to halt; the plain
+      before them he said was destitute of grass and water, neither of which
+      would be met with short of the Green River, which was yet at a
+      considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party were all on
+      horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by nightfall: but he
+      doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s arrival there with his
+      wagons before the day following. Having imparted this information, he
+      pushed forward with all speed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit. The
+      ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued to
+      move rapidly. After a long and harassing day&rsquo;s march, without pausing for
+      a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o&rsquo;clock at night, to encamp
+      in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the following
+      morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to slake their
+      thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse grass, here and
+      there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a great part of this
+      Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the rain cannot
+      penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In some places it
+      produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the streams; but the
+      wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It was not until noon that
+      Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of
+      the West; in the meantime, the sufferings of both men and horses had been
+      excessive, and it was with almost frantic eagerness that they hurried to
+      allay their burning thirst in the limpid current of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had
+      managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up by the
+      exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were obliged to
+      pass the night upon the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across the
+      river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance below,
+      where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant pasturage. Here
+      the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take their rest: the
+      weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in flesh and spirit; but
+      this last march across the thirsty plain had nearly finished them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the fur
+      trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with
+      Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of
+      Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them
+      four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was
+      somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had
+      calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the
+      rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his
+      competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free
+      trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to endeavor
+      to bring them to his camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that
+      both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it
+      was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his
+      camp with breastworks of logs and pickets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the bands
+      of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood. These
+      savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the
+      inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order,
+      always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the
+      tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain horses,
+      and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a family, and
+      entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils. The veteran
+      warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the consequence which
+      success gives them among their people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short, stout
+      horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis. When on
+      a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the
+      country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and ravines, and use
+      more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode of warfare is entirely
+      by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the night time. If they
+      succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury: if the
+      enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, they become wary and
+      deliberate in their movements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the
+      greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the
+      American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries
+      for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond of
+      spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready to
+      exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and
+      daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking
+      hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by Mr.
+      Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across
+      the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged constantly to
+      keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes: such
+      as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of
+      the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the Yellowstone and
+      Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further north.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent at
+      the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
+      which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who keep
+      about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and numbers
+      about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or three years
+      they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the Arapahoes of the
+      Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow country, and the Black
+      Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and
+      Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state of hostility with all these
+      tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted in the most lawless
+      and predatory style; nor do they hesitate to extend their maraudings to
+      any party of white men they meet with; following their trails; hovering
+      about their camps; waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free traders,
+      and murdering the solitary trapper. The consequences are frequent and
+      desperate fights between them and the &ldquo;mountaineers,&rdquo; in the wild defiles
+      and fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one of
+      their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter we
+      shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers, which
+      had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      6.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Sublette and his band&mdash;Robert&mdash;Campbell&mdash;Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of &ldquo;down-easters&rdquo;&mdash;Yankee enterprise&mdash;Fitzpatrick&mdash;His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet&mdash;A rendezvous of mountaineers&mdash;
+     The battle of&mdash;Pierre&rsquo;s Hole&mdash;An Indian ambuscade&mdash;
+     Sublette&rsquo;s return
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified
+      camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party
+      of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies from St.
+      Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole. This party consisted of
+      sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of packhorses. They were
+      commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner in the company, and one
+      of the most active, intrepid, and renowned leaders in this half military
+      kind of service. He was accompanied by his associate in business, and
+      tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert Campbell, one of the pioneers of the
+      trade beyond the mountains, who had commanded trapping parties there in
+      times of the greatest peril.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell in
+      with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This was a
+      party of regular &ldquo;down-easters,&rdquo; that is to say, people of New England,
+      who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their race, were
+      now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with which they were
+      totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and was maintained and
+      commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This gentleman had
+      conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon might be
+      established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur trade. He
+      had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he supposed,
+      for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men in his
+      employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of the
+      wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the
+      continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same way
+      that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch forth on a
+      voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and his
+      men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the frontier,
+      and found that the wilderness required experience and habitudes of which
+      they were totally deficient. Not one of the party, excepting the leader,
+      had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they were without guide or
+      interpreter, and totally unacquainted with &ldquo;wood craft&rdquo; and the modes of
+      making their way among savage hordes, and subsisting themselves during
+      long marches over wild mountains and barren plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed, or
+      rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence, in
+      Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled amicably
+      together; the frontier men of Sublette&rsquo;s party gave their Yankee comrades
+      some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art and mystery of
+      dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without accident at the
+      upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the company
+      who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came down from the
+      rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole to meet them and hurry them forward. He
+      travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet Water; then
+      taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the other as a
+      pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, to make arrangements
+      against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting campaign before
+      the rival company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the
+      passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green
+      River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to a
+      halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the
+      rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and
+      setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once his
+      mistake and his peril&mdash;they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his
+      fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for the
+      mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous defiles.
+      Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone off, when
+      he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his remaining
+      horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For several
+      days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost famished,
+      having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept for
+      self-defence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller,
+      Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green River
+      valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at hand. They
+      had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which came down
+      from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band of Indians
+      burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and a discharge of
+      guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than wounding one mule,
+      and causing several horses to break loose from their pickets. The camp was
+      instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with yells of exultation,
+      carrying off several of the horses under cover of the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some of
+      Wyeth&rsquo;s band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New
+      England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette&rsquo;s men, who
+      were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued their
+      march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their flanks, and
+      arrived without further molestation at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous, was for
+      Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been received
+      concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest he should have
+      fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made the midnight attack
+      upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy, therefore, when he made his
+      appearance, conducted by two half-breed Iroquois hunters. He had lurked
+      for several days among the mountains, until almost starved; at length he
+      escaped the vigilance of his enemies in the night, and was so fortunate as
+      to meet the two Iroquois hunters, who, being on horseback, conveyed him
+      without further difficulty to the rendezvous. He arrived there so
+      emaciated that he could scarcely be recognized.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The valley called Pierre&rsquo;s Hole is about thirty miles in length and
+      fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken ridges,
+      and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the three
+      Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through the
+      valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The meadows
+      on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and
+      cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be
+      nearly impassable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the fur
+      trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments, with their
+      retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and half-breeds,
+      assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly supplies, and their
+      orders to start off in new directions. Here, also, the savage tribes
+      connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish Indians, and
+      Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and with their
+      squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There was, moreover,
+      a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant leader from
+      Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little apart from
+      the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage, amounting to
+      several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in tents and lodges
+      in the several camps.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur
+      Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened,
+      and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement
+      and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their
+      several destinations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by Milton
+      Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of proceeding
+      to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his fifteen free
+      trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver hunters and
+      salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this opportunity to
+      prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied with such
+      experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about eight miles to
+      the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the valley of Pierre&rsquo;s
+      Hole. On the following morning, just as they were raising their camp, they
+      observed a long line of people pouring down a defile of the mountains.
+      They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle and his party, whose arrival
+      had been daily expected. Wyeth, however, reconnoitred them with a
+      spy-glass, and soon perceived they were Indians. They were divided into
+      two parties, forming, in the whole, about one hundred and fifty persons,
+      men, women, and children. Some were on horseback, fantastically painted
+      and arrayed, with scarlet blankets fluttering in the wind. The greater
+      part, however, were on foot. They had perceived the trappers before they
+      were themselves discovered, and came down yelling and whooping into the
+      plain. On nearer approach, they were ascertained to be Blackfeet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the trappers of Sublette&rsquo;s brigade, a half-breed named Antoine
+      Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference.
+      He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by the
+      Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears his
+      name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose once
+      powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with the
+      Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful hostility
+      against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came to a halt.
+      One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the pipe of peace.
+      This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the Flathead were
+      predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a treacherous
+      movement.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Is your piece charged?&rdquo; said Antoine to his red companion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;It is.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Then cock it, and follow me.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in
+      friendship. Antoine grasped it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Fire!&rdquo; cried he.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the ground.
+      Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly ornamented, and
+      galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the bullets of the enemy
+      whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw themselves into the
+      edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood trees, interwoven with
+      vines. Here they began to fortify themselves; the women digging a trench,
+      and throwing up a breastwork of logs and branches, deep hid in the bosom
+      of the wood, while the warriors skirmished at the edge to keep the
+      trappers at bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up a
+      scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of &ldquo;downeasters,&rdquo; they
+      were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the
+      wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use
+      of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as a
+      skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them; then,
+      making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to remain in
+      garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself, he mingled with
+      the other leaders, determined to take his share in the conflict.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for
+      reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at
+      their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his
+      cap, and giving the alarm; &ldquo;Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper
+      part of the valley!&mdash;to arms! to arms!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one
+      turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined. As
+      fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was soon
+      alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St.
+      Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared
+      for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and arming
+      themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses and dashed
+      forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their wills in
+      soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be disposed of in
+      case of his death, and appointing the other his executor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all the
+      foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the whole valley
+      suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field of action. They
+      withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from sight in the dark
+      and tangled wood. Most of their women and children had retreated to the
+      mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and approached the swamp, firing
+      into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet had a better sight at their
+      adversaries, who were in the open field, and a half-breed was wounded in
+      the shoulder.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm
+      the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place, and
+      the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The very
+      Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as almost
+      impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to be turned
+      from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp. Campbell
+      stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous wood,
+      Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he fell,
+      Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done, he grasped
+      his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell. Sinclair,
+      the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with his brother
+      and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the two friends,
+      he pressed forward to share their dangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming up a
+      stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all overgrown
+      with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that it was
+      impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in peril had
+      to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting the
+      branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they should
+      attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by turns,
+      each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then hallooing to
+      their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered the swamp, and
+      followed a little distance in their rear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of the
+      rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as we have
+      said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and the leathern
+      covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The movements of the
+      leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried by the sharp-sighted
+      enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was putting some branches
+      aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on the spot. &ldquo;Take me to my
+      brother,&rdquo; said he to Campbell. The latter gave him in charge to some of
+      the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he
+      perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle
+      was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye.
+      While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him the
+      hole; &ldquo;Watch that place,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;and you will soon have a fair chance
+      for a shot.&rdquo; Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck him in
+      the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought was to take
+      hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and down. He
+      ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken. The next
+      moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took him in his
+      arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that struck
+      Sublette wounded another man in the head.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered
+      occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in
+      searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number of
+      Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others did
+      the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, which
+      occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian was shot
+      down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had been sped
+      from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much
+      increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were
+      completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however, making
+      no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork was kept
+      up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in bravado,
+      would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a buffalo robe
+      or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his comrades. Most
+      of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in the first part
+      of the attack.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws
+      belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This
+      however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the
+      robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure
+      would fall into their hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other.
+      During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief
+      was heard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;So long,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the open
+      field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our women and
+      children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes, and you who
+      are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There are four hundred
+      lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be here&mdash;their arms
+      are strong&mdash;their hearts are big&mdash;they will avenge us!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole
+      interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was made
+      to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking the encampment
+      at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for hurrying to the
+      defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep watch upon the fort;
+      the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came on, the trappers drew out
+      of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of the wood. By morning, their
+      companions returned from the rendezvous with the report that all was safe.
+      As the day opened, they ventured within the swamp and approached the fort.
+      All was silent. They advanced up to it without opposition. They entered:
+      it had been abandoned in the night, and the Blackfeet had effected their
+      retreat, carrying off their wounded on litters made of branches, leaving
+      bloody traces on the herbage. The bodies of ten Indians were found within
+      the fort; among them the one shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet
+      afterward reported that they had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle.
+      Thirty-two horses were likewise found killed; among them were some of
+      those recently carried off from Sublette&rsquo;s party, in the night; which
+      showed that these were the very savages that had attacked him. They proved
+      to be an advance party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon
+      the trail of Sublette&rsquo;s party. Five white men and one halfbreed were
+      killed, and several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and
+      six wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In
+      the course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood;
+      but his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was
+      proof against powder and ball.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning after
+      the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were
+      approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of
+      noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at her
+      lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was
+      dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she
+      was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud spirit
+      kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on discovering
+      her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled body fell upon
+      the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have heard this anecdote
+      discredited by one of the leaders who had been in the battle: but the fact
+      may have taken place without his seeing it, and been concealed from him.
+      It is an instance of female devotion, even to the death, which we are well
+      disposed to believe and to record.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the free
+      trappers, and Wyeth&rsquo;s New England band, remained some days at the
+      rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an
+      attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves in
+      motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain
+      Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on his
+      return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from the
+      trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his
+      departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of
+      this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of the
+      followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and savage
+      warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization. He and six
+      others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred K. Stephens,
+      of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel Boon, set out
+      together, in advance of Sublette&rsquo;s party, thinking they would make their
+      way through the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven
+      companions were making their way through Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, a valley not far
+      from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party of
+      Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The horse of
+      the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with affright, and
+      threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up the side of the
+      hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his presence of mind,
+      and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank, until the Blackfeet
+      came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had fled on the first
+      alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing his danger, paused when
+      they got half way up the hill, turned back, dismounted, and hastened to
+      his assistance. Foy was instantly killed. Stephens was severely wounded,
+      but escaped, to die five days afterward. The survivors returned to the
+      camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings of this new disaster. That
+      hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the journey, set out on his return
+      to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As they had a number of pack-horses
+      richly laden with peltries to convoy, they chose a different route through
+      the mountains, out of the way, as they hoped, of the lurking bands of
+      Blackfeet. They succeeded in making the frontier in safety. We remember to
+      have seen them with their band, about two or three months afterward,
+      passing through a skirt of woodland in the upper part of Missouri. Their
+      long cavalcade stretched in single file for nearly half a mile. Sublette
+      still wore his arm in a sling. The mountaineers in their rude hunting
+      dresses, armed with rifles and roughly mounted, and leading their
+      pack-horses down a hill of the forest, looked like banditti returning with
+      plunder. On the top of some of the packs were perched several half-breed
+      children, perfect little imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf
+      locks. These, I was told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love
+      from their squaw spouses in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      7.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Retreat of the Blackfeet&mdash;Fontenelle&rsquo;s camp in danger&mdash;
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet&mdash;Free trappers&mdash;Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses&mdash;Game fellows
+     of the mountains&mdash;Their visit to the camp&mdash;Good fellowship
+     and good cheer&mdash;A carouse&mdash;A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from
+      their wild fastness in Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, fell back into the valley of the
+      Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their
+      band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy and
+      exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives and
+      children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive enterprise
+      of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their wanderings they came
+      in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who had moved some distance up
+      Green River valley in search of the free trappers, they put up tremendous
+      war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if to attack it. Second thoughts
+      caused them to moderate their fury. They recollected the severe lesson
+      just received, and could not but remark the strength of Fontenelle&rsquo;s
+      position; which had been chosen with great judgment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of
+      which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however,
+      knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care to
+      inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might know
+      there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference ended,
+      Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen of the
+      Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic] at that time
+      two Crow Indians in the captain&rsquo;s camp, who had recently arrived there.
+      They looked with dismay at this deputation from their implacable enemies,
+      and gave the captain a terrible character of them, assuring him that the
+      best thing he could possibly do, was to put those Blackfeet deputies to
+      death on the spot. The captain, however, who had heard nothing of the
+      conflict at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, declined all compliance with this sage counsel.
+      He treated the grim warriors with his usual urbanity. They passed some
+      little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that everything was conducted with
+      military skill and vigilance; and that such an enemy was not to be easily
+      surprised, nor to be molested with impunity, and then departed, to report
+      all that they had seen to their comrades.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the band
+      of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to his camp,
+      had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August those
+      worthies made their appearance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary
+      to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur
+      companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons,
+      horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound to
+      do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as
+      hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard; and,
+      in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them, we
+      shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them by
+      Captain Bonneville. &ldquo;They come and go,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;when and where they
+      please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and
+      trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries to the
+      highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they attach
+      themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they come under
+      some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules for
+      trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such
+      general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the
+      camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they are
+      bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who commands
+      the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer seeking a
+      market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from thirty to
+      forty dollars for the whole hunt.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come to
+      these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and are
+      furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound to
+      exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without skinning,
+      they render in at the trader&rsquo;s lodge, where a stipulated price for each is
+      placed to their credit. These though generally included in the generic
+      name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages
+      have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so
+      than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them to
+      discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to adopt
+      the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian. You
+      cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade him you
+      have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the counterfeit is
+      complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length, is carefully
+      combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over his shoulders, or
+      plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or parti-colored ribands. A
+      hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes, or of ornamented leather,
+      falls to his knee; below which, curiously fashioned legging, ornamented
+      with strings, fringes, and a profusion of hawks&rsquo; bells, reach to a costly
+      pair of moccasons of the finest Indian fabric, richly embroidered with
+      beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some other bright color, hangs from his
+      shoulders, and is girt around his waist with a red sash, in which he
+      bestows his pistols, knife, and the stem of his Indian pipe; preparations
+      either for peace or war. His gun is lavishly decorated with brass tacks
+      and vermilion, and provided with a fringed cover, occasionally of
+      buckskin, ornamented here and there with a feather. His horse, the noble
+      minister to the pride, pleasure, and profit of the mountaineer, is
+      selected for his speed and spirit, and prancing gait, and holds a place in
+      his estimation second only to himself. He shares largely of his bounty,
+      and of his pride and pomp of trapping. He is caparisoned in the most
+      dashing and fantastic style; the bridles and crupper are weightily
+      embossed with beads and cockades; and head, mane, and tail, are interwoven
+      with abundance of eagles&rsquo; plumes, which flutter in the wind. To complete
+      this grotesque equipment, the proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted
+      with vermilion, or with white clay, whichever presents the most glaring
+      contrast to his real color.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of the
+      wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly
+      characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their
+      fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and long
+      flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed blankets,
+      and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them so much the air
+      and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to persuade one&rsquo;s self
+      that they were white men, and had been brought up in civilized life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these
+      cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and
+      ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in
+      the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow
+      in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they
+      would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, and
+      swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the free
+      trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain&rsquo;s band;
+      mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard, or
+      pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the veterans
+      of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the hour, with
+      prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of the wonders he
+      had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his adventurous
+      peregrinations among the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp of
+      Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new
+      acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept their
+      word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became &ldquo;hail fellow
+      well met&rdquo; with Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men; treat after treat succeeded,
+      until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather confounded, by
+      liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free trappers were no longer
+      suffered to have all the swagger to themselves. The camp bullies and prime
+      trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and to brag, in turn, of their
+      perils and achievements. Each now tried to out-boast and out-talk the
+      other; a quarrel ensued as a matter of course, and a general fight,
+      according to frontier usage. The two factions drew out their forces for a
+      pitched battle. They fell to work and belabored each other with might and
+      main; kicks and cuffs and dry blows were as well bestowed as they were
+      well merited, until, having fought to their hearts&rsquo; content, and been
+      drubbed into a familiar acquaintance with each other&rsquo;s prowess and good
+      qualities, they ended the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could
+      have been rendered by a year&rsquo;s peaceable companionship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and
+      characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for the
+      time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to collect
+      from them information concerning the different parts of the country about
+      which they had been accustomed to range; the characters of the tribes,
+      and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He also succeeded
+      in securing the services of several to guide and aid him in his
+      peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during the ensuing
+      season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable recruits, he felt
+      in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware Indians, decoyed
+      from him by Mr Fontenelle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      8.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Plans for the winter&mdash;Salmon River&mdash;Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains&mdash;New arrangements&mdash;Caches&mdash;Cerre&rsquo;s
+     detachment&mdash;Movements in&mdash;Fontenelle&rsquo;s camp&mdash;Departure of
+     the&mdash;Blackfeet&mdash;Their fortunes&mdash;Wind&mdash;Mountain streams&mdash;
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear&mdash;Bones of
+     murdered travellers&mdash;Visit to Pierre&rsquo;s Hole&mdash;Traces of the
+     battle&mdash;Nez&mdash;Perce&mdash;Indians&mdash;Arrival at&mdash;Salmon River
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain
+      Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green River
+      valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the depth
+      of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in the
+      neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far more
+      eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither the
+      captain resolved to bend his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia;
+      and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to the
+      northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense shoals
+      of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October. The
+      salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo on
+      the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man, that
+      come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs find
+      their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along the
+      fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of the
+      mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a
+      sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great rivers,
+      and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest tributory
+      streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to penetrate even
+      among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in the desert places
+      of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the animals of the chase,
+      and where, but for these periodical supplies, it would be impossible for
+      man to subsist.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the
+      ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run up
+      the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against impetuous
+      streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and weak, and
+      great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their backs. As the
+      season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are flung in myriads
+      on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to banquet on them.
+      Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks as to taint the
+      atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet long.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the
+      winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel
+      rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods and
+      supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present purposes,
+      or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided, therefore,
+      by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits, during the
+      night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in these deposited
+      the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All traces of the
+      caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common expedient with
+      the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no established posts and
+      magazines, they make these caches or deposits at certain points, whither
+      they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is an expedient derived from
+      the wandering tribes of Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for a long
+      scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one cavalcade,
+      and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name of Matthieu. He
+      was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to Bear River; a
+      stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where there was good
+      pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was expected he would
+      meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly migrations, with
+      whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After he had traded with
+      these people, finished his trapping, and recruited the strength of the
+      horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin Captain Bonneville,
+      who intended to fix his quarters there for the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain
+      Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of Fontenelle.
+      One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived, in all haste,
+      from the rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, in quest of the supplies. The
+      competition between the two rival companies was just now at its height,
+      and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns of the Rocky
+      Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident partners, Fitzpatrick
+      and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company, by Vanderburgh and Dripps.
+      The latter were ignorant of the mountain regions, but trusted to make up
+      by vigilance and activity for their want of knowledge of the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of
+      competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the two
+      companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different
+      directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to get
+      first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown, were
+      effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had enabled the
+      various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start off to their
+      respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his associate,
+      Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for a prime
+      beaver country to the north-northwest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to meet
+      Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he immediately
+      furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the head of the free
+      trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed, determined to follow
+      hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of the adventures of these
+      parties among the mountains, and the disastrous effects of their
+      competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a future chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his errand,
+      struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone. Captain
+      Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green River
+      valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the Blackfeet
+      band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however, had been
+      dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties of white
+      men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this part of the
+      country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and bending their
+      course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them. Their route lay
+      through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows. In the Wind River
+      valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were encountered by a
+      powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put to rout. Forty of
+      them were killed, many of their women and children captured, and the
+      scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they were completely
+      chased out of the Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out on
+      his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three to a
+      mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal and one
+      on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and eighty to two
+      hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers&rsquo; style of loading
+      pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting the packs, which
+      were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was necessary to keep a
+      rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days&rsquo; experience, however,
+      brought them into proper training.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the right
+      by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little lakes
+      and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured forth the
+      tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing down gullies and
+      ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from inaccessible clefts and
+      rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and pellucid currents across
+      the valley, to throw themselves into the main river. So transparent were
+      these waters that the trout with which they abounded could be seen gliding
+      about as if in the air; and their pebbly beds were distinctly visible at
+      the depth of many feet. This beautiful and diaphanous quality of the Rocky
+      Mountain streams prevails for a long time after they have mingled their
+      waters and swollen into important rivers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued to
+      the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky defiles,
+      extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters was a
+      Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was Buckeye. He
+      had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping with the
+      grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in the left arm,
+      he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded bear, and attack
+      him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was willing to brave the
+      animal when in full force and fury. He had twice an opportunity of proving
+      his prowess, in the course of this mountain journey, and was each time
+      successful. His mode was to seat himself upon the ground, with his rifle
+      cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus prepared, he would await the
+      approach of the bear with perfect coolness, nor pull trigger until he was
+      close at hand. In each instance, he laid the monster dead upon the spot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought
+      Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, where poor More
+      and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The feelings of
+      the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these unfortunate young
+      men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to be decently interred.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which
+      commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole; whence he
+      could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and forests
+      of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant mountains,
+      of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a sleeping
+      ocean below.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley,
+      and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the
+      remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and
+      strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late
+      populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers&rsquo; camps and
+      Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage of
+      trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all dispersed
+      to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had relapsed into
+      its pristine solitude and silence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he
+      resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards of
+      two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses suffering
+      excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the 19th of
+      September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The
+      night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left
+      the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his
+      custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become
+      bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the following
+      morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered the earth
+      to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately encamped,
+      and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search Buckeye was
+      discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the rear, waiting
+      the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they had passed, the
+      snow having covered their trail.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but had
+      not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country in the
+      advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and crying
+      Indians! Indians!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared
+      for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great
+      numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly, making
+      signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or
+      Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation was
+      returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him. They
+      halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as important
+      with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This done, they
+      arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the van, the
+      braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and topped off
+      with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting and singing,
+      firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields. The two parties
+      encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a hunting expedition,
+      but had been almost famished on their march. They had no provisions left
+      but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white men equally in want, they
+      generously offered to share even this meager pittance, and frequently
+      repeated the offer, with an earnestness that left no doubt of their
+      sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of Captain Bonneville, and
+      produced the most cordial good will on the part of his men. For two days
+      that the parties remained in company, the most amicable intercourse
+      prevailed, and they parted the best of friends. Captain Bonneville
+      detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader, to accompany the Nez
+      Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade with them for meat for
+      the winter&rsquo;s supply. After this, he proceeded down the river, about five
+      miles below the forks, when he came to a halt on the 26th of September, to
+      establish his winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      9.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Horses turned loose&mdash;Preparations for winter quarters&mdash;
+     Hungry times&mdash;Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies&mdash;Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+     conversations with them&mdash;Their love of gambling
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a
+      course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under
+      which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling upon
+      the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings. Indeed, so
+      exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle were no longer
+      capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary
+      fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure and
+      comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and huts
+      were built for the reception of the merchandise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty
+      men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the rest
+      were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different directions,
+      to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow should become
+      too deep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in
+      this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo
+      range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the
+      neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the
+      garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they
+      brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now and
+      then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an
+      antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with
+      roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates of
+      the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having
+      wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the 8th
+      of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez
+      Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their
+      situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set
+      they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor
+      anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of
+      certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any
+      weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor
+      fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their hard
+      fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical stoicism, they
+      at least made them acquainted with the edible properties of roots and wild
+      rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their own store. The
+      necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that Captain Bonneville
+      determined to dispatch a party to the Horse Prairie, a plain to the north
+      of his cantonment, to procure a supply of provisions. When the men were
+      about to depart, he proposed to the Nez Perces that they, or some of them,
+      should join the hunting-party. To his surprise, they promptly declined. He
+      inquired the reason for their refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as
+      starving a situation as his own people. They replied that it was a sacred
+      day with them, and the Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it
+      to hunting. They offered, however, to accompany the party if it would
+      delay its departure until the following day; but this the pinching demands
+      of hunger would not permit, and the detachment proceeded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that
+      they were about to hunt. &ldquo;What!&rdquo; exclaimed he, &ldquo;without guns or arrows;
+      and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?&rdquo; They smiled
+      among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they
+      performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few
+      short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the blessings
+      of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed, leaving the
+      whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by this lesson of
+      faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being. &ldquo;Accustomed,&rdquo; adds
+      Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;as I had heretofore been, to find the wretched Indian
+      revelling in blood, and stained by every vice which can degrade human
+      nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which I had witnessed. Wonder
+      at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where it was least to have been
+      sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at receiving
+      such pure and wholesome instructions from creatures so far below us in the
+      arts and comforts of life.&rdquo; The simple prayers of the poor Indians were
+      not unheard. In the course of four or five days they returned, laden with
+      meat. Captain Bonneville was curious to know how they had attained such
+      success with such scanty means. They gave him to understand that they had
+      chased the buffalo at full speed, until they tired them down, when they
+      easily dispatched them with the spear, and made use of the same weapon to
+      flay the carcasses. To carry through their lessons to their Christian
+      friends, the poor savages were as charitable as they had been pious, and
+      generously shared with them the spoils of their hunting, giving them food
+      enough to last for several days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain
+      Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional feeling.
+      &ldquo;Simply to call these people religious,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;would convey but a
+      faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades their
+      whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose,
+      and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most uniform and
+      remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of saints than a horde
+      of savages.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from the
+      doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had imbibed
+      some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries and traders
+      who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of the fasts and
+      festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These
+      have become blended with their own wild rites, and present a strange
+      medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men, women, and children
+      array themselves in their best style, and assemble round a pole erected at
+      the head of the camp. Here they go through a wild fantastic ceremonial;
+      strongly resembling the religious dance of the Shaking Quakers; but from
+      its enthusiasm, much more striking and impressive. During the intervals of
+      the ceremony, the principal chiefs, who officiate as priests, instruct
+      them in their duties, and exhort them to virtue and good deeds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;There is something antique and patriarchal,&rdquo; observes Captain Bonneville,
+      &ldquo;in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there is in many of
+      their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued with religion.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by
+      this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness. He
+      exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and well-disposed
+      people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle and humanizing
+      precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them acquainted with the
+      leading points of its history; and it speaks highly for the purity and
+      benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed happiness from the task.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Many a time,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled
+      with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other,
+      until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the
+      wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No other
+      subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the attention;
+      and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory, or are so
+      pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours of intercourse
+      with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the desert.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people,
+      appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an
+      eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble
+      before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain absorbed
+      in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn of the
+      following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer. Bets
+      increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater, until in
+      the course of a single night&rsquo;s gambling, the richest chief may become the
+      poorest varlet in the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      10.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Black feet in the Horse Prairie&mdash;Search after the hunters&mdash;
+     Difficulties and dangers&mdash;A card party in the wilderness&mdash;
+     The card party interrupted&mdash;&ldquo;Old Sledge&rdquo; a losing game&mdash;
+     Visitors to the camp&mdash;Iroquois hunters&mdash;Hanging-eared
+     Indians
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived
+      at Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s encampment. They were on their way homeward, but
+      had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the
+      mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse
+      Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke of
+      a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a war
+      party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they
+      generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these
+      horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville
+      for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the
+      Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and
+      declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen from
+      that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain
+      Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that
+      direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found;
+      but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh
+      famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful of
+      food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the mountain.
+      After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but merely wounded
+      him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill and dale, with the
+      eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more lucky shot brought him
+      to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged his knife into his
+      throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking his blood: A fire was
+      instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two hunters cooked, and ate
+      again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they sank to sleep before their
+      hunting fire. On the following morning they rose early, made another
+      hearty meal, then loading themselves with buffalo meat, set out on their
+      return to the camp, to report the fruitlessness of their mission.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, after six weeks&rsquo; absence, the hunters made their appearance,
+      and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been felt
+      on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie, but, while
+      busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken Flatheads,
+      who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at hand. The
+      hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground, and
+      accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr. Cerre, and
+      the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the hunting party of
+      the Nez Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the
+      Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of Mr.
+      Cerre&rsquo;s men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived without
+      accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not far from his
+      quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord, which they
+      supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days afterward
+      Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at the
+      cantonment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty
+      hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise
+      his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his
+      encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary of
+      their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on these
+      prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves with a
+      social game of cards called &ldquo;old sledge,&rdquo; which is as popular among these
+      trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite circles of
+      the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly roused by a
+      discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on their feet, and
+      snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their horses and mules
+      already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon the camp
+      unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old sledge. The
+      Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored to urge them
+      off under a galling fire that did some execution. The mules, however,
+      confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new riders kicked up
+      their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of their horsemanship.
+      This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored to protect their
+      unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the whites; but, after a
+      scene of &ldquo;confusion worse confounded,&rdquo; horses and mules were abandoned,
+      and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes. Here they quickly
+      scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in which they prostrated
+      themselves, and while thus screened from the shots of the white men, were
+      enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows and fusees, as to
+      repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat. This adventure threw
+      a temporary stigma upon the game of &ldquo;old sledge.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow
+      from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment. They
+      were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves useful in a
+      variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate woodsmen. They
+      were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that came from Canada
+      into these mountain regions many years previously, in the employ of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. They were led by a brave chieftain, named Pierre,
+      who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and gave his name to the fated
+      valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole. This branch of the Iroquois tribe has ever since
+      remained among these mountains, at mortal enmity with the Blackfeet, and
+      have lost many of their prime hunters in their feuds with that ferocious
+      race. Some of them fell in with General Ashley, in the course of one of
+      his gallant excursions into the wilderness, and have continued ever since
+      in the employ of the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville was
+      a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These Indians
+      have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez Perces.
+      They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and possess
+      great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn, they hunt
+      the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry&rsquo;s Fork of the
+      Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River. Their winter
+      quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon roots and
+      dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company have
+      established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the Flatheads
+      bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and trinkets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings of
+      natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like that
+      of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep
+      reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of their
+      fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific
+      doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased
+      with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore, from
+      all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their policy,
+      they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare; especially
+      with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting expeditions,
+      they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles. Their conduct
+      as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can never be driven to
+      abandon their hunting grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power and
+      efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some of
+      their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth &lsquo;scapes, like the
+      old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, are believed to wear a
+      charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings marvelous
+      anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed by their fellow
+      savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      11.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Rival trapping parties&mdash;Manoeuvring&mdash;A desperate game&mdash;
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet&mdash;Deserted camp fire&mdash;A dark
+     defile&mdash;An Indian ambush&mdash;A fierce melee&mdash;Fatal
+     consequences&mdash;Fitzpatrick and Bridger&mdash;Trappers precautions
+     &mdash;Meeting with the Blackfeet&mdash;More fighting&mdash;Anecdote of a
+     young&mdash;Mexican and an Indian girl.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez Perces,
+      on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those doughty
+      rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who started off
+      for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already shown,
+      having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped to have the
+      first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and Dripps, however, the
+      two resident partners of the opposite company, by extraordinary exertions
+      were enabled soon to put themselves upon their traces, and pressed forward
+      with such speed as to overtake them just as they had reached the heart of
+      the beaver country. In fact, being ignorant of the best trapping grounds,
+      it was their object to follow on, and profit by the superior knowledge of
+      the other party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being dogged
+      by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer to divide the
+      country with them. They tried in every way to blind and baffle them; to
+      steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent; but all in vain.
+      Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for his ignorance of the
+      country; was always wary, always on the alert; discovered every movement
+      of his rivals, however secret and was not to be eluded or misled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the others
+      persisted in following them, they determined to give them an unprofitable
+      chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than share the products
+      with their rivals. They accordingly took up their line of march down the
+      course of the Missouri, keeping the main Blackfoot trail, and tramping
+      doggedly forward, without stopping to set a single trap. The others beat
+      the hoof after them for some time, but by degrees began to perceive that
+      they were on a wild-goose chase, and getting into a country perfectly
+      barren to the trapper. They now came to a halt, and be-thought themselves
+      how to make up for lost time, and improve the remainder of the season. It
+      was thought best to divide their forces and try different trapping
+      grounds. While Dripps went in one direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty
+      men, proceeded in another. The latter, in his headlong march had got into
+      the very heart of the Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been
+      unconscious of his danger. As his scouts were out one day, they came upon
+      the traces of a recent band of savages. There were the deserted fires
+      still smoking, surrounded by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It
+      was evident a party of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting
+      camp, and had retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts
+      hastened back to the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He
+      made light of the alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to
+      reconnoitre for himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they
+      had represented it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly
+      dismembered; there were the smouldering fires, still sending up their
+      wreaths of smoke; everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and
+      gave reason to believe that the savages were still lurking in the
+      neighborhood. With heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their
+      trail, to trace them to their place of concealment: It led him over
+      prairies, and through skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and
+      dangerous ravine. Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by
+      his little band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between
+      steep banks overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only
+      broken by the tramp of their own horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the sharp
+      report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their concealments,
+      yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten the horses.
+      Vanderburgh&rsquo;s horse fell, mortally wounded by the first discharge. In his
+      fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called in vain upon his men to
+      assist in extricating him. One was shot down scalped a few paces distant;
+      most of the others were severely wounded, and sought their safety in
+      flight. The savages approached to dispatch the unfortunate leader, as he
+      lay struggling beneath his horse.. He had still his rifle in his hand and
+      his pistols in his belt. The first savage that advanced received the
+      contents of the rifle in his breast, and fell dead upon the spot; but
+      before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol, a blow from a tomahawk laid him
+      prostrate, and he was dispatched by repeated wounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and
+      worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing
+      and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular
+      among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp,
+      and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The
+      party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and
+      made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains of
+      their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the
+      encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a
+      reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could
+      be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company,
+      fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to mislead
+      them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region infested
+      with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch for them;
+      but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be surprised at
+      night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the evening advanced,
+      the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a guard was stationed
+      round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of the leaders would
+      mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about half a mile; then
+      look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether there had been any
+      lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would reconnoitre every
+      ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush. This done, he would
+      gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the same scrutiny. Finding
+      all things safe, the horses would be turned loose to graze, but always
+      under the eye of a guard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any
+      defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always
+      kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the flanks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open field,
+      but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary distance, but
+      made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way, but likewise
+      kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing the pipe of
+      peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and they formed a
+      group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was circulated from
+      hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An instance of natural
+      affection took place at this pacific meeting. Among the free trappers in
+      the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited young Mexican named Loretto, who,
+      in the course of his wanderings, had ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl
+      from a band of Crows by whom she had been captured. He made her his wife,
+      after the Indian style, and she had followed his fortunes ever since, with
+      the most devoted affection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she
+      recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward
+      and threw herself upon her brother&rsquo;s neck, who clasped his long-lost
+      sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible with
+      the reputed stoicism of the savage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of trappers
+      and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle resting across
+      the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet stepped forward to
+      meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust Bridger cocked his
+      rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in friendship. The quick
+      ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in a twinkling he grasped
+      the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the contents were discharged
+      into the earth at his feet. His next movement was to wrest the weapon from
+      the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to the earth. He might have found
+      this no easy task had not the unfortunate leader received two arrows in
+      his back during the struggle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his band.
+      A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks, the rocks
+      and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular firing was kept
+      up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl had been hurried
+      off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She would have returned,
+      through the dangers of the fight, to her husband and her child, but was
+      prevented by her brother. The young Mexican saw her struggles and her
+      agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a generous impulse he caught up
+      the child in his arms, rushed forward, regardless of Indian shaft or
+      rifle, and placed it in safety upon her bosom. Even the savage heart of
+      the Blackfoot chief was reached by this noble deed. He pronounced Loretto
+      a madman for his temerity, but bade him depart in peace. The young Mexican
+      hesitated; he urged to have his wife restored to him, but her brother
+      interfered, and the countenance of the chief grew dark. The girl, he said,
+      belonged to his tribe-she must remain with her people. Loretto would still
+      have lingered, but his wife implored him to depart, lest his life should
+      be endangered. It was with the greatest reluctance that he returned to his
+      companions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse
+      parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We
+      cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole the
+      affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment
+      when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither
+      instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different
+      persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in
+      their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual
+      among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves
+      sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial, by any
+      hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of
+      faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white men
+      have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have, in
+      consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian bride.
+      A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young Mexican
+      settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and obtained his
+      discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin his wife and
+      child among her people; and we understand that, at the time we are writing
+      these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of late by the
+      American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts as an
+      interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      12.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A winter camp in the wilderness&mdash;Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians&mdash;Scarcity of game&mdash;New arrangements in
+     the camp&mdash;Detachments sent to a distance&mdash;Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped&mdash;Sickness among the Indians&mdash;
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces&mdash;The Captain&rsquo;s effort
+     as a pacificator&mdash;A Nez-Perce&rsquo;s argument in favor of war&mdash;
+     Robberies, by the Black feet&mdash;Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces&mdash;A hunter&rsquo;s Elysium among the mountains&mdash;More
+     robberies&mdash;The Captain preaches up a crusade&mdash;The effect
+     upon his hearers.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville remained
+      in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full enjoyment of
+      his wishes; leading a hunter&rsquo;s life in the heart of the wilderness, with
+      all its wild populace around him. Beside his own people, motley in
+      character and costume&mdash;creole, Kentuckian, Indian, half-breed, hired
+      trapper, and free trapper&mdash;he was surrounded by encampments of Nez
+      Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses covering the hills and
+      plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling scene. The hunting
+      parties of white men and red men, continually sallying forth and
+      returning; the groups at the various encampments, some cooking, some
+      working, some amusing themselves at different games; the neighing of
+      horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of the axe, the sharp
+      report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the frequent burst of
+      laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused from perfect
+      silence and loneliness by this transient hunters&rsquo; sojourn, realized, he
+      says, the idea of a &ldquo;populous solitude.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its influence
+      on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together. The most
+      perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says, were
+      friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous degree
+      in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were somewhat
+      importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in the way,
+      examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching every movement
+      of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great good-humor by
+      the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed, throughout all
+      his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor Indians, and his
+      conduct toward them is above all praise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves upon
+      the number of their horses, of which they possess more in proportion than
+      any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo range. Many of the
+      Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain Bonneville possess
+      from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are stout, well-built
+      ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the severest hardship and
+      fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those obtained from the whites
+      while sufficiently young to become acclimated and inured to the rough
+      service of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its
+      inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians consumed
+      the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to any distant
+      pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and deadly enemies,
+      would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast. Game, too, began to
+      grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out of the vicinity, and
+      though the Indians made a wide circuit through the mountains in the hope
+      of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment, their expedition was
+      unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party could not subsist
+      themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the winter. Captain
+      Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements. He detached fifty
+      men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and to trap about its
+      waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the month of July at
+      Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed upon as the general
+      rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of
+      free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and
+      Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass.
+      Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments and
+      set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained behind
+      for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which to deposit
+      everything not required for current use. Thus lightened of all superfluous
+      encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to rejoin his Indian
+      allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of the country, at the
+      head of a small stream. Considering themselves out of all danger in this
+      sequestered spot from their old enemies, the Blackfeet, their encampment
+      manifested the most negligent security. Their lodges were scattered in
+      every direction, and their horses covered every hill for a great distance
+      round, grazing upon the upland bunch grass which grew in great abundance,
+      and though dry, retained its nutritious properties instead of losing them
+      like other grasses in the autumn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a
+      dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care is
+      taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and objects
+      of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one foot at
+      night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain until broad
+      daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already ranging over
+      the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses to some eligible
+      spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young Indian repairs
+      occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to see that all is
+      well. So accustomed are the horses to this management, that they keep
+      together in the pasture where they have been left. As the sun sinks behind
+      the hills, they may be seen moving from all points toward the camp, where
+      they surrender themselves to be tied up for the night. Even in situations
+      of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over their camp at night,
+      intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant and well-trained dogs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which
+      Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions
+      with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at
+      nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at
+      perfect liberty, until the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was to
+      procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however,
+      extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty
+      that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use
+      of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for
+      their equipment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November
+      to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from
+      thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but it
+      generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades of new
+      grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December, however,
+      the thermometer fell to seven degrees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in Green
+      River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by a leader
+      of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses, to sojourn
+      about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to rejoin him at
+      his winter camp on Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his
+      appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain
+      Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he would
+      have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning him; for his
+      route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads itself out
+      like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be descried at a
+      great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded no further than
+      the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were lame; but it was
+      evident they had feared to venture, with so small a force, into these
+      exposed and dangerous regions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now appeared
+      among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an illness of three
+      or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician, prescribing profuse
+      sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with success, if the
+      patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In extraordinary
+      cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own doctors or
+      conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but with little
+      benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in graves, after
+      the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the direction of the
+      head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this malady made such
+      ravages among the natives, not a single white man had the slightest
+      symptom of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and Flathead
+      Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable and
+      inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them, and
+      conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly feud
+      between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably the
+      sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and urged that
+      they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific conference,
+      offering to send two of his men to the enemy&rsquo;s camp with pipe, tobacco and
+      flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two
+      days&rsquo; duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long
+      talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length
+      they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain&rsquo;s proposition, and
+      upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;War,&rdquo; said the chiefs, &ldquo;is a bloody business, and full of evil; but it
+      keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the young
+      men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we see a
+      trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we know it
+      is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds no alarm;
+      the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men are sleek
+      and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and their little
+      babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a lie, and his
+      tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he comes to us as a
+      brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees us weak, and off our
+      guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such peace; let there be
+      war!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since
+      the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in a state
+      of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted vigilance
+      which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He represented to
+      them the impossibility that two such considerable clans could move about
+      the country without leaving trails by which they might be traced. Besides,
+      among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces, who had been taken
+      prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors, and trained up and
+      imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had lost all sympathies
+      with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead the enemy to their
+      secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep upon the alert, and
+      never to remit their vigilance while within the range of so crafty and
+      cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon his easy and simple-minded
+      hearers. A careless indifference reigned throughout their encampments, and
+      their horses were permitted to range the hills at night in perfect
+      freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own horses brought in at night, and
+      properly picketed and guarded. The evil he apprehended soon took place. In
+      a single night a swoop was made through the neighboring pastures by the
+      Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the finest horses carried off. A whip and a
+      rope were left in a conspicuous situation by the robbers, as a taunt to
+      the simpletons they had unhorsed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire through
+      the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses remained
+      safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an outbreak of
+      warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit of the marauders;
+      but no such thing&mdash;they contented themselves with searching
+      diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as had escaped the
+      hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to their loss with
+      the most exemplary quiescence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit
+      to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit
+      the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance. To
+      these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of begging
+      and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was
+      necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten
+      ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian
+      friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their
+      cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united
+      force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were
+      infested by bands of Blackfeet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented as
+      a perfect hunter&rsquo;s elysium. It was on the right branch, or head stream of
+      the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there was no danger
+      from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter. Here, they
+      said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be seen trooping
+      upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it, also, herds of
+      buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger. Thither they proposed
+      to move their camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the
+      Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land.
+      Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved
+      forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the
+      late malady.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered a
+      deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much
+      valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three
+      days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of his
+      free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible, before
+      the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened away by
+      the various Indian hunting parties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the
+      Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be upon
+      their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent loss,
+      were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some secluded
+      spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any guard upon
+      them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one were carried
+      off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the first, and no effort
+      was made either to recover the horses, or to take vengeance on the
+      thieves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their
+      remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and
+      fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that
+      this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and
+      persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should,
+      therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night
+      over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from
+      their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was
+      over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but
+      the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be
+      roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band
+      that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such
+      pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being now
+      picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated in the
+      early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here they went
+      about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at home, quietly
+      cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges of their
+      sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than the rest,
+      approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were gambling with the
+      most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time, muffled up in his
+      robe, peering over the shoulders of the players, watching the changes of
+      their countenances and the fluctuations of the game. So completely
+      engrossed were they, that the presence of this muffled eaves-dropper was
+      unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he retired undiscovered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off, the
+      Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently round
+      the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty, took their
+      route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged from the camp
+      they were silently taken possession of, until, having secured about
+      thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered off. The clatter
+      of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They gave the alarm, which
+      soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still all was quiescent; no
+      marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds and dashing off in pursuit,
+      no talk of retribution for their repeated outrages. The patience of
+      Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He had played the part of a
+      pacificator without success; he now altered his tone, and resolved, if
+      possible, to rouse their war spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven
+      policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures that
+      would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if not
+      inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party
+      should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow
+      them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and not
+      to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he
+      recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to
+      the extent of the losses sustained. &ldquo;Unless you rouse yourselves from your
+      apathy,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will cease
+      to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws and
+      children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their warriors
+      reserve themselves for nobler antagonists.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the
+      hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was
+      bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given
+      them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true,
+      but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez Perces,
+      without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose men, who were
+      not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an increased
+      watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind. He
+      disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other chiefs
+      concurred in his opinion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville again took up the point. &ldquo;It is true,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;the
+      Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has also
+      given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something speedily
+      to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say farewell. As yet I
+      have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions which you have slighted;
+      but my property is too unsafe here; my turn will come next; I and my
+      people will share the contempt you are bringing upon yourselves, and will
+      be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings, who may at any time be
+      plundered with impunity.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of the
+      Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in pursuit
+      of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account of the
+      Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came lagging
+      back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down horses,
+      which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient speed. This
+      effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the wounded pride of
+      the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual state of passive
+      indifference.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      13.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the spirit
+      of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp to whom
+      they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado, named
+      Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of the same
+      tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted into the
+      tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race, and loathed the
+      peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The hunting of the deer,
+      the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of their ambition, was too
+      tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature. His heart burned for the
+      foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper, and all the haps and hazards
+      of roving and predatory warfare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly prowls
+      and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and a flutter,
+      like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping and screaming
+      in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain Bonneville to rouse the
+      war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them to retaliation, was ardently
+      seconded by Kosato. For several days he was incessantly devising schemes
+      of vengeance, and endeavoring to set on foot an expedition that should
+      carry dismay and desolation into the Blackfeet town. All his art was
+      exerted to touch upon those springs of human action with which he was most
+      familiar. He drew the listening savages round him by his nervous
+      eloquence; taunted them with recitals of past wrongs and insults; drew
+      glowing pictures of triumphs and trophies within their reach; recounted
+      tales of daring and romantic enterprise, of secret marchings, covert
+      lurkings, midnight surprisals, sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings;
+      together with the triumphant return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the
+      victors. These wild tales were intermingled with the beating of the drum,
+      the yell, the war-whoop and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor.
+      All, however, were lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a
+      Nez Perce was to be roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In
+      the bitterness of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap
+      which had severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to
+      take refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain
+      Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted his
+      tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility. Kosato
+      told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep, strong
+      passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;You see my wife,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;she is good; she is beautiful&mdash;I love
+      her. Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of my
+      chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked together;
+      we laughed together; we were always seeking each other&rsquo;s society; but we
+      were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous, and commanded her to
+      speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward her; his jealousy grew
+      more furious. He beat her without cause and without mercy; and threatened
+      to kill her outright if she even looked at me. Do you want traces of his
+      fury? Look at that scar! His rage against me was no less persecuting. War
+      parties of the Crows were hovering round us; our young men had seen their
+      trail. All hearts were roused for action; my horses were before my lodge.
+      Suddenly the chief came, took them to his own pickets, and called them his
+      own. What could I do? he was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was
+      burning. I joined no longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast.
+      What had I to do there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself,
+      and thought of nothing but these wrongs and outrages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where
+      the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing
+      among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a time
+      over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I loved had
+      endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and my teeth
+      were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief walking
+      among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk&rsquo;s; my blood
+      boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an instant I
+      was on my feet; my hand was on my knife&mdash;I flew rather than ran&mdash;before
+      he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him dead at my
+      feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over the place;
+      then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and urged her to
+      fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded her of the wrongs
+      I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had endured from the
+      deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I again urged her to
+      fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My heart was heavy, but
+      my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. &lsquo;&rsquo;Tis well,&rsquo; said I; &lsquo;Kosato will go
+      alone to the desert. None will be with him but the wild beasts of the
+      desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his trail. They may come upon
+      him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but you will be safe. Kosato
+      will go alone.&rsquo;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. &lsquo;No,&rsquo;
+      she cried, &lsquo;Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go&mdash;he
+      shall never part from me.&rsquo;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and stealing
+      quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we encountered.
+      Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They received us with
+      welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They are good and kind;
+      they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of women.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville. It
+      is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements from
+      tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and heroines
+      of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and lasting
+      feuds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      14.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The party enters the mountain gorge&mdash;A wild fastness among
+     hills&mdash;Mountain mutton&mdash;Peace and plenty&mdash;The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding&mdash;A free trapper&rsquo;s wife&mdash;Her gala
+     equipments&mdash;Christmas in the wilderness.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians
+      raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork of
+      Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so
+      temptingly described by the Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand or
+      coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive
+      limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter
+      cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow
+      breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding
+      heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills
+      afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of the
+      mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so narrow,
+      rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid retreat, and
+      to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore, refrained from
+      venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better chance, when they
+      should once more emerge into the open country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the
+      advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large flocks
+      of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be seen bounding
+      among the precipices. These simple animals were easily circumvented and
+      destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill as many as they
+      please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the flesh of those which
+      were young and fat was extolled as superior to the finest mutton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm. Past
+      ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the story,
+      the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away, and
+      plenty and security reigned throughout the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony, in
+      civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness. Filled
+      with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers began to
+      repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the force of that
+      great law of nature, &ldquo;it is not meet for man to live alone.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the
+      Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his bosom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I want,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a
+      young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and
+      finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share my
+      lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of my
+      lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness.&rdquo;
+       Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and
+      procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the search.
+      At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and informed
+      him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of the afternoon.
+      He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached, leading the bride,
+      a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian finery. Her father,
+      mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by the score, all followed
+      on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and important relative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper
+      solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the
+      great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs,
+      then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the bride,
+      from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth of the
+      whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most profound
+      and becoming silence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn ceremonial,
+      the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable length the duties
+      of a wife which, among Indians, are little less onerous than those of the
+      pack-horse; this done, he turned to her friends and congratulated them
+      upon the great alliance she had made. They showed a due sense of their
+      good fortune, especially when the nuptial presents came to be distributed
+      among the chiefs and relatives, amounting to about one hundred and eighty
+      dollars. The company soon retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed
+      that he had no green girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once
+      assumed the style and dignity of a trapper&rsquo;s wife: taking possession of
+      the lodge as her undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her
+      own taste and habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy
+      terms with the trapper as if they had been man and wife for years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as
+      furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion
+      picture, his description of a free trapper&rsquo;s wife, that the reader may
+      have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in question
+      had invoked to solace him in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse;
+      but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony
+      occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of
+      ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still more
+      fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her
+      notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the
+      purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the
+      utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to be
+      equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw? Perish
+      the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse for her
+      own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as is sometimes
+      assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his squaw and her
+      pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the most beautiful animal
+      she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his decoration: headstall,
+      breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly embroidered with beads, and
+      hung with thimbles, hawks&rsquo; bells, and bunches of ribbons. From each side
+      of the saddle hangs an esquimoot, a sort of pocket, in which she bestows
+      the residue of her trinkets and nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the
+      decoration of her horse or herself. Over this she folds, with great care,
+      a drapery of scarlet and bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the
+      caparison of her steed complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair,
+      esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited, and
+      made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her riding hat is
+      stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned somewhat after
+      that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes gray cloth, but always
+      of the finest texture that can be procured. Her leggings and moccasins are
+      of the most beautiful and expensive workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the
+      foot and ankle, which with the Indian woman are generally well formed and
+      delicate. Then as to jewelry: in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings,
+      necklaces, and other female glories, nothing within reach of the trapper&rsquo;s
+      means is omitted that can tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the
+      lady&rsquo;s high estate. To finish the whole, she selects from among her
+      blankets of various dyes one of some glowing color, and throwing it over
+      her shoulders with a native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay,
+      prancing steed, and is ready to follow her mountaineer &lsquo;to the last gasp
+      with love and loyalty.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the general picture of the free trapper&rsquo;s wife, given by Captain
+      Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question does
+      not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her
+      connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp and
+      circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that wherever
+      there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest rivalry
+      exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands&rsquo; purses.
+      Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by endeavors to
+      eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies and
+      heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of nature
+      are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and fashion
+      in the luxurious abodes of civilized life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom lights
+      up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard upon the
+      wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends, Captain
+      Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed to suffer
+      the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good cheer, and
+      were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to &ldquo;light up the yule
+      clog,&rdquo; and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and rejoicings.
+      In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the lodge of the
+      Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted him with a
+      feude joie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in
+      which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited
+      the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was
+      gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief!
+      There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet
+      was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed
+      for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up
+      abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter
+      roots which the Indians use as condiments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in
+      Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity.
+      After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and
+      Indians closed the Christmas festivities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      15.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A hunt after hunters&mdash;Hungry times&mdash;A voracious repast&mdash;
+     Wintry weather&mdash;Godin&rsquo;s River&mdash;Splendid winter scene on the
+     great&mdash;Lava Plain of Snake River&mdash;Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow&mdash;Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman&mdash;Encampment on Snake River&mdash;Banneck Indians&mdash;The
+     horse chief&mdash;His charmed life.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time, caused
+      great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding there was
+      no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage of scouting
+      parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set out himself on the
+      search, and to keep on until he should ascertain something of the object
+      of his solicitude.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by thirteen
+      stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for dangerous
+      enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the head of the
+      mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As they confidently
+      expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other predatory horde, they
+      moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant watch in their
+      encampments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River,
+      and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day&rsquo;s defile. It was severe
+      and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter blasts of
+      wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game was scarce,
+      so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the want of
+      pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor of the
+      horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two of
+      the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping back in
+      great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of savages,
+      evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and nothing had saved
+      them from being entrapped but the speed of their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored
+      to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment, and
+      its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven in and
+      picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of trees and
+      the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier was
+      maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away
+      without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to
+      discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night; not
+      a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel with
+      which the plain was covered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of
+      surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the foot
+      of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the next day
+      that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the plain, among
+      rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half without a mouthful
+      of food, they took especial care that these animals should not escape
+      them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced cautiously with their
+      rifles into the rough ground, four of the best mounted horsemen took their
+      stations in the plain, to run the bulls down should they only be maimed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The half-famished
+      horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen ground, but succeeded
+      in driving them on the ice, where they slipped and fell, and were easily
+      dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with beef for present and future
+      supply, and then returned and encamped at the last nights&rsquo;s fire. Here
+      they passed the remainder of the day, cooking and eating with a voracity
+      proportioned to previous starvation, forgetting in the hearty revel of the
+      moment the certain dangers with which they were environed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about
+      their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships
+      they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard,
+      taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the
+      lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the
+      stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye could
+      reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently
+      deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the
+      icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through want
+      of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible famine
+      like that they had already experienced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride; and,
+      having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back until it
+      was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated the
+      difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have flinched
+      from the undertaking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the
+      course of a stream called John Day&rsquo;s Creek. The cold was so intense that
+      they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should
+      freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough
+      even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high
+      mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the
+      cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches in
+      depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat
+      their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day&rsquo;s
+      journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by
+      the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps
+      of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small
+      branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down
+      John Day&rsquo;s Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped upon
+      the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat down and
+      clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter in
+      the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet. Many of
+      the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after scenes of
+      violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It was an act
+      of filial vengeance on the part of Godin&rsquo;s son Antoine that, as the reader
+      may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Godin&rsquo;s River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon the
+      plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated hills
+      that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of Snake River,
+      one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains. Could they have
+      experienced a respite from their sufferings and anxieties, the immense
+      landscape spread out before them was calculated to inspire admiration.
+      Winter has its beauties and glories as well as summer; and Captain
+      Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the
+      lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever
+      the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth from
+      among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock and
+      frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall pines
+      seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with minute
+      icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy trees
+      conjured up by the caliph&rsquo;s story-teller to adorn his vale of diamonds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were in
+      no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they
+      stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight in
+      more genial situations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so that
+      it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here the
+      horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for once
+      they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that, in the
+      morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered round and
+      mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their
+      half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce
+      blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat
+      the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed next
+      to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts, when,
+      fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party. Into this
+      they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty. Shortly
+      afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and was
+      instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and
+      crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after
+      which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men
+      reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing fire
+      gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more
+      facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the
+      mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the day
+      they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before them on
+      the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better mounted on a
+      fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring them with
+      evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers, their leggings,
+      blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped off with feathers,
+      even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed complexions, gave them the
+      look of Indians rather than white men, and made him mistake them for a war
+      party of some hostile tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a
+      parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing
+      prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a
+      breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for
+      defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to be
+      approached within speaking distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at no
+      great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that he was
+      conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his reserve
+      and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence that there
+      were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood. This was
+      cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one of them the
+      long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore, with renovated
+      spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there fixed his
+      encampment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made
+      about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men. An
+      encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river, in
+      which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu&rsquo;s men,
+      from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there in the
+      course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and self-gratulation
+      to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his dreary and
+      doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time in this
+      encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give needful
+      repose to men and horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering grounds
+      in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound its devious way
+      between low banks through the great plain of the Three Butes; and was
+      bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with islands which,
+      like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves of cotton-wood,
+      thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and abundance of green
+      rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent that no single band of
+      Indians could drive the buffalo out of them; nor was the snow of
+      sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience. Indeed, during the
+      sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood, which was in the heart
+      of winter, he found the weather, with the exception of a few cold and
+      stormy days, generally mild and pleasant, freezing a little at night but
+      invariably thawing with the morning&rsquo;s sun-resembling the spring weather in
+      the middle parts of the United States.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky
+      Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west of
+      the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and
+      Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white
+      robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into the
+      plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in quest of
+      food; where they are easily slain in great numbers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to
+      which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty band
+      of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it unwise for
+      those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an overpowering
+      force.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering
+      about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors
+      and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles
+      where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising in
+      warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet
+      towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories and
+      house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the rest
+      with bows and arrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River
+      and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax
+      fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh of
+      deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and are
+      met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving in
+      exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon the
+      tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the rise
+      of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their horses,
+      although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent stock from
+      being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but two years
+      old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses, also, than
+      most of these migratory tribes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these
+      Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The Horse.
+      This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be
+      invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been in
+      repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had shown
+      great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of the great
+      men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of trappers
+      passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had been sworn by
+      the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself the friend of
+      white men and, having great influence and authority among his people, he
+      compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to conduct themselves
+      amicably whenever they came in contact with the traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the Blackfeet
+      upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His fall in
+      nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for they
+      declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of horn
+      which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no doubt,
+      of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with
+      sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory
+      propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become
+      troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of
+      traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any
+      small party that might fall within their reach.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      16.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Misadventures of Matthieu and his party&mdash;Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River&mdash;Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet&mdash;Heroism of a Nez Perce woman&mdash;Enrolled among the
+     braves.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived in
+      camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain
+      Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward, keeping
+      to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky chain. Here
+      he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses, and soon
+      discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the Shoshonie
+      bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much frequented by
+      trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to rejoin Captain
+      Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of an
+      Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped
+      during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in snow
+      and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with nine
+      horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear River,
+      where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was
+      discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced a
+      lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long as
+      their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained the wary
+      savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly encamped, in
+      a situation where they might be approached with secrecy, the enemy crept
+      stealthily along under cover of the river bank, preparing to burst
+      suddenly upon their prey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they were
+      discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently gave the
+      alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and prepared to
+      retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named Jennings,
+      doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted his horse
+      wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to mount, but in
+      vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of firearms by the
+      savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his nerves that he was
+      unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing his peril and
+      confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect him. A shot from
+      a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he called upon the others
+      not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross, after fighting
+      desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining two vaulted into
+      their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight, being pursued for
+      nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu&rsquo;s camp, where their
+      story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the hunters could not be
+      prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest of provisions. They
+      remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp; now and then killing
+      an old or disabled horse for food, while the elk and the mountain sheep
+      roamed unmolested among the surrounding mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain
+      Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious
+      encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to
+      traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state of
+      their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night, the
+      position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night watches.
+      The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given to hair-brained
+      assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe well prepared and on the
+      alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a protection against him as
+      courage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet;
+      until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the Bannecks,
+      a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having belonged to one
+      of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied having taken these
+      spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the outrage had been
+      perpetrated by a Blackfoot band.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the
+      arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered
+      strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez
+      Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might take
+      thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly, leaving
+      sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February with
+      sixteen others on his journey to the caches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he
+      encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he was
+      again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River plain, where
+      it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently incrusted to
+      bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the crust, and
+      plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by the ice that
+      it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards, and put a
+      different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies were swept by
+      a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night, they had to task
+      their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from freezing. In the first
+      place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling it up in ramparts to
+      windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath these they spread
+      buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves in full dress, with
+      caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves with numerous
+      blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often severely pinched with
+      the cold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This
+      stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the Malade
+      River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about twenty
+      yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives its name,
+      and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about forty miles,
+      it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to come
+      upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where he
+      remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and dry a
+      supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was moderate
+      and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height. There was
+      abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful in clayey and
+      gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its name from a
+      partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses in the winter,
+      but they reject it the moment the young grass affords sufficient
+      pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed their
+      march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they had to
+      make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the wind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part of
+      the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were sent out to
+      reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a hunting party
+      of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with meat. Captain
+      Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them to proceed with
+      his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he proposed also to
+      invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere in this
+      neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that friendly tribe
+      who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had likewise been out
+      to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted and harassed by their
+      old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had contrived to carry off many
+      of their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges
+      separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their
+      horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot
+      banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and
+      determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping ground
+      of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which they hid
+      themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some straggler who
+      might guide them to the present &ldquo;whereabout&rdquo; of their intended victims. As
+      fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot renegade, was the first to
+      pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought bride. He was on his way from
+      the main body of hunters to the little band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet
+      knew and marked him as he passed; he was within bowshot of their
+      ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for his blood, they forbore to
+      launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment that he might lead them to
+      their prey. Secretly following his trail, they discovered the lodges of
+      the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed them with shouts and yellings.
+      The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men, and but nine were armed with
+      fusees. They showed themselves, however, as brave and skilful in war as
+      they had been mild and long-suffering in peace. Their first care was to
+      dig holes inside of their lodges; thus ensconced they fought desperately,
+      laying several of the enemy dead upon the ground; while they, though Some
+      of them were wounded, lost not a single warrior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her
+      warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows, and
+      bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the safety
+      of the whole party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind
+      the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert. A
+      Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before him as
+      he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the tree behind
+      which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless interest;
+      whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot. The Nez Perce
+      put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he Sprang upon his
+      feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the back of his
+      antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of the horses,
+      several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez Perces,
+      ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves to the
+      last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party was a
+      renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no vindictive
+      rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now he had got the
+      booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He held a long parley,
+      therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off his warriors, taking
+      with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward, that the bullets of the
+      Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the course of the battle, so that
+      they were obliged to make use of stones as substitute.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather
+      than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the
+      head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body
+      remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the
+      horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors
+      paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with them
+      to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and they
+      passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving way to
+      passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She was not
+      mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck him, had
+      stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful wife he
+      gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and hatred of
+      his tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was elevated
+      by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other honorable
+      distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in the war dances
+      of the braves!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      17.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Opening of the caches&mdash;Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains&mdash;Superstition of an Indian trapper&mdash;
+     Godin&rsquo;s River&mdash;Preparations for trapping&mdash;An alarm&mdash;An
+     interruption&mdash;A rival band&mdash;Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms&mdash;Ingulfed streams&mdash;Sublime scenery&mdash;A
+     grand buffalo hunt.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having secretly
+      opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to equip the free
+      trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with the Indians, after
+      which he closed them again. The free trappers, being newly rigged out and
+      supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly about the camp. To
+      compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give a cheerful spur to
+      further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the men what, in frontier
+      phrase, is termed &ldquo;a regular blow-out.&rdquo; It was a day of uncouth gambols
+      and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined in the sports and games,
+      and all was mirth and good-fellowship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations
+      to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his main
+      trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among the
+      great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding course
+      falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain dispatched
+      Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and purchase
+      horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a small stock of
+      goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the spring, for such
+      peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches on Salmon River as
+      the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin him on the 15th of June
+      following.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men
+      composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with
+      eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River, as
+      it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled very
+      slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were so weak
+      that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage, however, was
+      now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass, which in some
+      places had attained such height as to wave in the wind. The native flocks
+      of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are called by the trappers,
+      were continually to be seen upon the hills between which they passed, and
+      a good supply of mutton was provided by the hunters, as they were
+      advancing toward a region of scarcity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark an
+      instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail
+      among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to the
+      sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the habit
+      of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of &ldquo;beaver
+      lodges,&rdquo; and occasionally set their traps with some success. One of them,
+      however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was invariably
+      unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad luck, he at
+      length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his person of
+      which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach. He immediately
+      set about a thorough purification. Making a rude sweating-house on the
+      banks of the river, he would shut himself up until in a reeking
+      perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge into the river. A
+      number of these sweatings and plungings having, as he supposed, rendered
+      his person perfectly &ldquo;inodorous,&rdquo; he resumed his trapping with renovated
+      hope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin&rsquo;s River, where they
+      found the swamp full of &ldquo;musk-rat houses.&rdquo; Here, therefore, Captain
+      Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular
+      attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he
+      promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat
+      they should take. All now set to work for the next day&rsquo;s sport. The utmost
+      animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything looked
+      auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats in the
+      swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find when they
+      should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver country all to
+      themselves, where they might trap at their leisure without molestation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp,
+      shouting, or rather yelling, &ldquo;A trail! a trail!&mdash;lodge poles! lodge
+      poles!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      These were words full of meaning to a trapper&rsquo;s ear. They intimated that
+      there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party, as
+      they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told his
+      story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by the
+      dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too, had
+      just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the hunters
+      had already been on the range.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat
+      trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the trail.
+      Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed the unknown
+      party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival band of
+      trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that too by a
+      party already in the advance, who were driving the game before them.
+      Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions to which a
+      trapper&rsquo;s life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an uninterrupted hunt
+      was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom and disappointment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the rival
+      party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he turned his
+      back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed on at &ldquo;long
+      camps&rdquo;, which in trapper&rsquo;s language is equivalent to long stages. On the
+      6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on the trail like
+      hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of Godin&rsquo;s defile.
+      Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two prime trappers, all
+      well appointed, with excellent horses in capital condition led by Milton
+      Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie, and in full march for the
+      Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news. The Malade River was the
+      only trapping ground within reach; but to have to compete there with
+      veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the mountains, and admirably
+      mounted, while they were so poorly provided with horses and trappers, and
+      had but one man in their party acquainted with the country-it was out of
+      the question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep
+      among the mountains of Godin&rsquo;s River and blocked up the usual pass to the
+      Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+      horses should get once more into good condition in their present ample
+      pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but to
+      keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any
+      possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie
+      endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay so
+      deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain&rsquo;s horses
+      were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which had been
+      worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was increasing
+      his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his favor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty of
+      getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the
+      intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that,
+      apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and
+      sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of these
+      mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges resembling
+      the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and
+      dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth. Captain
+      Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but without any
+      satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them reverberated against
+      the sides for apparently a very great depth, and, by its sound, indicated
+      the same kind of substance with the surface, as long as the strokes could
+      be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious in avoiding danger, shrinks
+      back in alarm from the least of these chasms, pricking up his ears,
+      snorting and pawing, until permitted to turn away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it is
+      sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one of
+      these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin&rsquo;s
+      River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this plain;
+      some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding, no doubt,
+      subterranean outlets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over
+      precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other
+      forty feet in height.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in
+      diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste;
+      where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but
+      lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+      opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion of
+      nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely, and
+      dominate this wide sea of lava&mdash;one of the most striking features of
+      a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple
+      grandeur.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this
+      sublime but almost unknown region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers broke
+      up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest end of the
+      mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various points of the
+      mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava plain, stretching
+      away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye could reach. On the
+      evening of the 26th they reached the plain west of the mountain, watered
+      by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams, which comprised the
+      contemplated trapping-ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain
+      Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West, presenting
+      the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of bright running
+      streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which
+      lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the
+      rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap
+      each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped about
+      various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set forward early
+      in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On the way, he treated
+      his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re ported numerous herds
+      in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was an immediate halt; the
+      fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the party advanced to the
+      summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great plain below; absolutely
+      swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now appointed the place where he
+      would encamp; and toward which the hunters were to drive the game. He
+      cautioned the latter to advance slowly, reserving the strength and speed
+      of the horses until within a moderate distance of the herds. Twenty-two
+      horsemen descended cautiously into the plain, conformably to these
+      directions. &ldquo;It was a beautiful sight,&rdquo; says the captain, &ldquo;to see the
+      runners, as they are called, advancing in column, at a slow trot, until
+      within two hundred and fifty yards of the outskirts of the herd, then
+      dashing on at full speed until lost in the immense multitude of buffaloes
+      scouring the plain in every direction.&rdquo; All was now tumult and wild
+      confusion. In the meantime Captain Bonneville and the residue of the party
+      moved on to the appointed camping ground; thither the most expert runners
+      succeeded in driving numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the
+      camp, and the flesh transported thither without difficulty. In a little
+      while the whole camp looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses
+      were skilfully cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying
+      and jerking beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence.
+      On the 15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain
+      Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all in good
+      health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies of various
+      kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae distributed
+      throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality this merry
+      meeting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      18.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Meeting with Hodgkiss&mdash;Misfortunes of the Nez Perces&mdash;
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado&mdash;His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie&mdash;Invasion of Black feet&mdash;Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope&mdash;Their generous enterprise&mdash;Their fate&mdash;Consternation
+     and despair of the village&mdash;Solemn obsequies&mdash;Attempt at
+     Indian trade&mdash;Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company&rsquo;s monopoly&mdash;Arrangements
+     for autumn&mdash;Breaking up of an encampment.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain
+      Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the
+      secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly
+      into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had
+      remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and
+      learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently
+      befallen that ill-fated race.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade
+      Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his
+      strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now
+      resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon their old
+      enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and robberies they
+      had recently experienced, and assuring them that such would continue to be
+      their lot until they proved themselves men by some signal retaliation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect;
+      and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the
+      Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and
+      commit all kinds of depredations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he
+      came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate their
+      force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely seconded
+      by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody; at length,
+      as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held a long
+      parley, or rather a war of words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;What need,&rdquo; said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, &ldquo;have the Nez Perces to
+      leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have danger
+      enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your villages;
+      you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have hitherto
+      made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A great force
+      is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and are determined to rub
+      out the very name of the Nez Perces from the mountains. Return, I say, to
+      your towns, and fight there, if you wish to live any longer as a people.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native
+      tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told all
+      that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous
+      measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their
+      accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and as
+      often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at present,
+      and, of course, took no precautions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a band
+      of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All now was
+      consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was too small to
+      cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men having gone to
+      their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The sages met in
+      hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow which threatened
+      annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a Pierced-nose chief,
+      named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach secretly with a small,
+      but chosen band, through a defile which led to the encampment of the
+      enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the horses. Should this blow
+      be successful, the spirit and strength of the invaders would be broken,
+      and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be more than a match for them.
+      Should it fail, the village would not be worse off than at present, when
+      destruction appeared inevitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow Blue
+      John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the solemnity
+      and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his medicine, or
+      talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge as a supernatural
+      protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise would be completely
+      successful, provided no rain should fall before he had passed through the
+      defile; but should it rain, his band would be utterly cut off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies
+      would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope;
+      and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and
+      horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring
+      style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as
+      they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and
+      there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to
+      read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John
+      remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was their hope
+      to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the Blackfoot camp;
+      but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they met a scouting
+      party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among the hills, and were
+      pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard shouts and yells behind
+      them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet advancing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant
+      retreat. &ldquo;We came to fight!&rdquo; replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his
+      war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed him.
+      They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of victory,
+      but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful carnage,
+      rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid heaps of
+      their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with numbers and
+      pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued to fight until
+      they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty, survived. He sprang on
+      the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had slain, and escaping at full
+      speed, brought home the baleful tidings to his village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower of
+      their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The air was
+      rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting off their
+      ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically bewailing
+      the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The remaining warriors
+      armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed by their gloomy looks
+      and sullen silence that they considered defence hopeless. To their
+      surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing their advantage; perhaps
+      satisfied with the blood already shed, or disheartened by the loss they
+      had themselves sustained. At any rate, they disappeared from the hills,
+      and it was soon ascertained that they had returned to the Horse Prairie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of their
+      warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away the
+      bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless
+      trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely
+      they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off; a
+      proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe renowned
+      for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the Indian victor
+      thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the deceased.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across their
+      pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the village.
+      The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing cries and
+      wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom and sorrow
+      seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost undistinguishable
+      bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the midst of the
+      assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and lamentation that
+      ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian stoicism.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe
+      during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that Kosato,
+      the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been prevented from
+      going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse the vindictive
+      feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to revenge the
+      slaughter of their devoted braves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one
+      of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at this
+      time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians
+      encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they
+      had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with a
+      resident trader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who was stationed among them,
+      and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the trader was
+      almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply not having
+      yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence that the
+      supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped, how-ever, by
+      a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the market to
+      himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he opened his
+      packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares: bright cloths,
+      and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and everything gay and
+      glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all, however, was in vain. The
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay trader was a perfect master of his business, thoroughly
+      acquainted with the Indians he had to deal with, and held such control
+      over them that none dared to act openly in opposition to his wishes; nay,
+      more&mdash;he came nigh turning the tables upon the captain, and shaking
+      the allegiance of some of his free trappers, by distributing liquors among
+      them. The latter, therefore, was glad to give up a competition, where the
+      war was likely to be carried into his own camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the traders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company have advantages over all
+      competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge monopoly
+      centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and long-established
+      power and influence; but also those of its ancient rival, but now integral
+      part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus its races of traders,
+      trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought up in its service, and
+      inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge and aptitude in
+      everything connected with Indian life, and Indian traffic. In the process
+      of years, this company has been enabled to spread its ramifications in
+      every direction; its system of intercourse is founded upon a long and
+      intimate knowledge of the character and necessities of the various tribes;
+      and of all the fastnesses, defiles, and favorable hunting grounds of the
+      country. Their capital, also, and the manner in which their supplies are
+      distributed at various posts, or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their
+      traders well supplied, and enable them to furnish their goods to the
+      Indians at a cheap rate. Their men, too, being chiefly drawn from the
+      Canadas, where they enjoy great influence and control, are engaged at the
+      most trifling wages, and supported at little cost; the provisions which
+      they take with them being little more than Indian corn and grease. They
+      are brought also into the most perfect discipline and subordination,
+      especially when their leaders have once got them to their scene of action
+      in the heart of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come
+      within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost
+      hopeless.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s ineffectual attempt to participate in
+      the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company
+      arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the market.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month
+      Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green
+      River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the
+      preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and prepared
+      for the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country;
+      which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie
+      immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads of
+      the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies; but
+      they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois had,
+      latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves to the
+      Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their migrations
+      rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages of the
+      Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would range
+      their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this was their
+      reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal hunting
+      ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his engagements
+      required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River Valley; and he had
+      already formed his ulterior plans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a
+      stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey; the
+      route lay through Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, and other mountain passes infested by the
+      Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They were not
+      disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers, when they had
+      good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the head-waters of
+      Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt
+      to be law&mdash;who had the whole wilderness before them, &ldquo;where to
+      choose,&rdquo; and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their
+      services&mdash;it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain
+      Bonneville fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question;
+      appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing a
+      rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing winter.
+      The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or five hired
+      men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of a trapping
+      party; which when accurately organized is composed of two thirds trappers
+      whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of game; and one third
+      camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the tents, take care of
+      the horses and do all other duties usually assigned by the Indians to
+      their women. This part of the service is apt to be fulfilled by French
+      creoles from Canada and the valley of the Mississippi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade and
+      received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various directions.
+      As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a mountain to the
+      northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would have to pass; and
+      as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had their scouts out
+      watching every movement of the encampments, so as to cut off stragglers or
+      weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed upon the Nez Perces to
+      accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they should be beyond the range of
+      the enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at the
+      same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the Blackfeet;
+      while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in an opposite
+      direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, on his
+      way to Green River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same
+      moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and
+      picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their
+      rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons,
+      their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with
+      packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening
+      cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the
+      plains and mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      19.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Precautions in dangerous defiles&mdash;Trappers&rsquo; mode of defence
+     on a prairie&mdash;A mysterious visitor&mdash;Arrival in Green River
+     Valley&mdash;Adventures of the detachments&mdash;The forlorn partisan
+     &mdash;His tale of disasters.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the
+      most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures
+      with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When on
+      the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to reconnoitre
+      the country through which they were to pass. The encampments were selected
+      with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day. The horses were
+      brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a party was sent out to
+      scour the neighborhood for half a mile round, beating up every grove and
+      thicket that could give shelter to a lurking foe. When all was reported
+      safe, the horses were cast loose and turned out to graze. Were such
+      precautions generally observed by traders and hunters, we should not so
+      often hear of parties being surprised by the Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here
+      mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from a
+      veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey with
+      a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses under his
+      care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided with a
+      picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern fetters for
+      the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a long line; or
+      sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from each other to
+      prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when there is no covert
+      at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to the rear and form a
+      circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into the ground in the
+      centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their forelegs, so that, in
+      case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they unload them, and dispose
+      of their packs as breastworks on the periphery of the circle; each man
+      having nine packs behind which to shelter himself. In this promptly-formed
+      fortress, they await the assault of the enemy, and are enabled to set
+      large bands of Indians at defiance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry&rsquo;s
+      Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American
+      trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all
+      hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary
+      female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on a
+      mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched round
+      the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently into the
+      midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground, still holding
+      her horse by the long halter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet resolute
+      demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and trappers gathered
+      round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She remained silent, but
+      maintained her air of calmness and self-possession. Captain Bonneville
+      approached and interrogated her as to the object of her mysterious visit.
+      Her answer was brief but earnest&mdash;&ldquo;I love the whites&mdash;I will go
+      with them.&rdquo; She was forthwith invited to a lodge, of which she readily
+      took possession, and from that time forward was considered one of the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain
+      Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous
+      region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of a
+      horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called the
+      Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson&rsquo;s and Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, fell over
+      the brink, and was dashed to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River. As
+      he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with the
+      carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently been
+      there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to a halt, and
+      as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of rendezvous on Horse
+      Creek, where he had expected to meet with his detached parties of trappers
+      on the following day. Early in the morning the spies made their appearance
+      in the camp, and with them came three trappers of one of his bands, from
+      the rendezvous, who told him his people were all there expecting him. As
+      to the slaughter among the buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band
+      of Shoshonies, who had fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and
+      accompanied them to the rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the
+      three worthies from the rendezvous broached a small keg of &ldquo;alcohol,&rdquo;
+       which they had brought with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor
+      went briskly round; all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved
+      forward to the rendezvous in high spirits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other
+      on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its
+      tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the
+      various detachments of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s company, thus brought together
+      on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which he had sent
+      from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to winter on Snake
+      River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the course of their
+      spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men. They had come in
+      competition with rival trapping parties, particularly one belonging to the
+      Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long stories to relate of their
+      manoeuvres to forestall or distress each other. In fact, in these virulent
+      and sordid competitions, the trappers of each party were more intent upon
+      injuring their rivals, than benefitting themselves; breaking each other&rsquo;s
+      traps, trampling and tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every
+      thing in their power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail
+      these pitiful contentions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville
+      had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding
+      year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow country,
+      and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was to proceed
+      and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This partisan
+      appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful tale of
+      disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell in with a
+      village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse stealers, and
+      errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of his men to
+      desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When he attempted
+      to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to him and declared
+      the deserters were their good friends, had determined to remain among
+      them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan, therefore, was fain
+      to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their own feather, and being
+      too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous pass across the mountains to
+      meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he made, with the few that
+      remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood of Tullock&rsquo;s Fort, on the
+      Yellowstone, under the protection of which he went into winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad as
+      the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing away
+      thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their hands
+      on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for whiskey,
+      and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a few
+      free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off early
+      in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the course of
+      the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a steep mountain,
+      that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during the night. The
+      place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the sign of an Indian
+      in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had been turned by a
+      footstep. But who can calculate on security in the midst of the Indian
+      country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy, and seems to come and
+      go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce been turned loose, when
+      a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors entered the camp. They
+      affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their appearance and movements
+      awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran trappers, well versed in
+      Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies sent on some sinister errand,
+      they took them in custody, and set to work to drive in the horses. It was
+      too late&mdash;the horses were already gone. In fact, a war party of
+      Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for several days, watching with
+      the patience and perseverance of Indians, for some moment of negligence
+      and fancied security, to make a successful swoop. The two spies had
+      evidently been sent into the camp to create a diversion, while their
+      confederates carried off the spoil.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his
+      prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them
+      to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon found
+      that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on
+      horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very
+      horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment;
+      but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their
+      steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was now
+      attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to
+      barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers
+      spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were
+      relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to
+      their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a
+      blaze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another,
+      in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of
+      the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of the
+      captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many parting
+      words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart, and
+      knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort to
+      escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and retaken;
+      then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the sight of their
+      retreating comrades.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who mingle
+      in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible recrimination
+      on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any atrocities committed by
+      the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this signal and recent
+      provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the kind dwell in the
+      recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of honor and conscience
+      to revenge them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It was
+      out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party; the
+      only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first
+      water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the
+      stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments at which
+      they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the partisan, he
+      found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous at Green River
+      Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain Bonneville this
+      forlorn account of his misadventures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      20.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Gathering in Green River valley&mdash;Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders&mdash;Rough wassailing among the trappers&mdash;Wild blades of
+     the mountains&mdash;Indian belles&mdash;Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets&mdash;Arrival of supplies&mdash;Revelry and extravagance
+     &mdash;Mad wolves&mdash;The lost Indian
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those general
+      gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have already
+      mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past had been
+      endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were here
+      encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About four
+      miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the American
+      Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain Fur
+      Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these companies
+      in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus brought in
+      juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly aloof from
+      each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl and
+      bloodshed would ensue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar, meet
+      with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting season over,
+      all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and bickerings
+      buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of September,
+      all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding their furs
+      and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the trapper&rsquo;s holiday,
+      when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a saturnalia among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had
+      been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits, had
+      quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn every
+      favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling at their
+      respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in possession
+      of a rich stock of peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of
+      perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other in
+      the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich treat for the
+      worthy captain was to see the &ldquo;chivalry&rdquo; of the various encampments,
+      engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping, wrestling, shooting with
+      the rifle, and running horses. And then their rough hunters&rsquo; feastings and
+      carousels. They drank together, they sang, they laughed, they whooped;
+      they tried to out-brag and out-lie each other in stories of their
+      adventures and achievements. Here the free trappers were in all their
+      glory; they considered themselves the &ldquo;cocks of the walk,&rdquo; and always
+      carried the highest crests. Now and then familiarity was pushed too far,
+      and would effervesce into a brawl, and a &ldquo;rough and tumble&rdquo; fight; but it
+      all ended in cordial reconciliation and maudlin endearment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause
+      temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects of
+      rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper who
+      could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper of
+      precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period of
+      gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager competition
+      and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales were hastily
+      ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth. A mania for
+      purchasing spread itself throughout the several bands&mdash;munitions for
+      war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon with equal avidity&mdash;rifles,
+      hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red blankets, garish beads, and
+      glittering trinkets, were bought at any price, and scores run up without
+      any thought how they were ever to be rubbed off. The free trappers,
+      especially, were extravagant in their purchases. For a free mountaineer to
+      pause at a paltry consideration of dollars and cents, in the attainment of
+      any object that might strike his fancy, would stamp him with the mark of
+      the beast in the estimation of his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of
+      these free and flourishing blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might
+      stare him in the face, would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be
+      forgiven.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers
+      were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses
+      caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted about in
+      all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality was indulged to
+      its fullest extent, and in a little while most of the trappers, having
+      squandered away all their wages, and perhaps run knee-deep in debt, were
+      ready for another hard campaign in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves
+      in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps for
+      three nights successively, and bit several of the people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal
+      favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals.
+      Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy, and
+      lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted and
+      urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him, and,
+      leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth, gnashing
+      his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his senses, and
+      warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not be able to
+      restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain relief; but
+      on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and his
+      accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards a
+      solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a valley,
+      and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the mountains, and
+      was seen no more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the
+      encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been
+      bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on his
+      return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed symptoms
+      of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length, breaking away
+      from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows, where they left
+      him to his fate!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      21.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Schemes of Captain Bonneville&mdash;The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it&mdash;Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy, well-seasoned
+      and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited by at least one
+      year&rsquo;s experience among the mountains, and capable of protecting
+      themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing for their
+      subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an excellent
+      troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service. He
+      determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of his
+      scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the unknown
+      tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the buffalo range.
+      This would have something of the merit and charm of discovery, so dear to
+      every brave and adventurous spirit. Another favorite project was to
+      establish a trading post on the lower part of the Columbia River, near the
+      Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to retrieve for his country some of the
+      lost trade of Astoria.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his
+      mind&mdash;the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of
+      the wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression
+      on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal
+      charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the
+      mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those vast
+      and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of the
+      Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from the
+      land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you behold
+      this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and stretching
+      further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse, until the eye,
+      wearied with continued and strained attention, rests in the blue dimness
+      of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains, confidently asserted to rise
+      from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to you, the smooth and unruffled
+      surface is studded with little islands, where the mountain sheep roam in
+      considerable numbers. What extent of lowland may be encompassed by the
+      high peaks beyond, must remain for the present matter of mere conjecture
+      though from the form of the summits, and the breaks which may be
+      discovered among them, there can be little doubt that they are the sources
+      of streams calculated to water large tracts, which are probably concealed
+      from view by the rotundity of the lake&rsquo;s surface. At some future day, in
+      all probability, the rich harvest of beaver fur, which may be reasonably
+      anticipated in such a spot, will tempt adventurers to reduce all this
+      doubtful region to the palpable certainty of a beaten track. At present,
+      however, destitute of the means of making boats, the trapper stands upon
+      the shore, and gazes upon a promised land which his feet are never to
+      tread.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to this
+      great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas concerning
+      it from the representations of others, who have somewhat exaggerated its
+      features. It is reported to be about one hundred and fifty miles long, and
+      fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks which Captain Bonneville
+      speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are probably the summits of mountains
+      beyond it, which may be visible at a vast distance, when viewed from an
+      eminence, in the transparent atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several
+      large islands certainly exist in the lake; one of which is said to be
+      mountainous, but not by any means to the extent required to furnish the
+      series of peaks above mentioned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains, is
+      said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake, who
+      professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered excessively
+      from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and there being
+      no fresh streams running into it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished the
+      circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large
+      streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring, when
+      the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows, the lake
+      rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer, it
+      gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt upon
+      its shores.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is
+      estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above
+      the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the
+      atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report of
+      firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme dryness,
+      causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced in former
+      passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the Rocky
+      Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a height
+      is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though the salt
+      lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was the
+      grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was one in
+      which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed it would
+      be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams with which
+      the lake must be fringed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in
+      whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him to
+      keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his
+      route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his
+      journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of
+      his route, and of the surrounding country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men,
+      which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were
+      to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear
+      River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point
+      of general rendezvous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe
+      transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic
+      States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time in
+      the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up their
+      supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries
+      collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow
+      country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend in
+      boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St. Louis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same route,
+      under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would accompany
+      Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal hunt in the
+      Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      22.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The Crow country&mdash;A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows&mdash;
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man&mdash;His fights with
+     the Blackfeet&mdash;His elevation&mdash;His death&mdash;Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief&mdash;His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell&mdash;Honor among
+     Crows
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will
+      impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who inhabit
+      it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are any, of the
+      country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from the Black Hills to
+      the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty ranges, and embracing
+      many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind River, the Yellowstone,
+      the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the Nebraska. The country
+      varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains of sand and clay,
+      studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are mountainous and
+      picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines, and abounds with
+      game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a
+      Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;is a good country. The Great Spirit has put
+      it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well; whenever
+      you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains; the
+      water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no grass;
+      you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is a country
+      without horses?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and eat
+      fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones out of
+      their mouths. Fish is poor food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the
+      muddy water of the Missouri&mdash;that is bad. A Crow&rsquo;s dog would not
+      drink such water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good
+      grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow
+      country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no salt
+      weed for the horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains
+      and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every season.
+      When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under the
+      mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the
+      bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can hunt the
+      elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for dressing;
+      there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain
+      pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap
+      beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in
+      the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for
+      yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in the
+      Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to be
+      found there. There is no country like the Crow country.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory
+      habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but
+      their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory
+      habits, are gradually wearing them out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose,
+      an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter to
+      Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to Astoria,
+      who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and who remained
+      among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting their congenial
+      habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of that renegade may
+      not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected with the fortunes
+      of the tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his daring
+      deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He aspired to
+      command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate exploits. He
+      distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet. On one occasion,
+      a band of those savages had fortified themselves within a breastwork, and
+      could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work. &ldquo;Who will take the
+      lead?&rdquo; was the demand. &ldquo;I!&rdquo; cried he; and putting himself at their head,
+      rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed him he shot down with his
+      rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his victim, killed four others
+      within the fort. The victory was complete, and Rose returned to the Crow
+      village covered with glory, and bearing five Blackfoot scalps, to be
+      erected as a trophy before his lodge. From this time, he was known among
+      the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats, or &ldquo;the man who killed five.&rdquo; He
+      became chief of the village, or rather band, and for a time was the
+      popular idol. His popularity soon awakened envy among the native braves;
+      he was a stranger, an intruder, a white man. A party seceded from his
+      command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded that lasted for two or three
+      years, until Rose, having contrived to set his adopted brethren by the
+      ears, left them, and went down the Missouri in 1823. Here he fell in with
+      one of the earliest trapping expeditions sent by General Ashley across the
+      mountains. It was conducted by Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose
+      enlisted with them as guide and interpreter. When he got them among the
+      Crows, he was exceedingly generous with their goods; making presents to
+      the braves of his adopted tribe, as became a high-minded chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition,
+      Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley;
+      the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse
+      Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the
+      instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was the
+      perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr. Hunt
+      and his party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General
+      Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to protect
+      the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation, at which Rose
+      figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The military were
+      stationed at some little distance from the scene of the &ldquo;big talk&rdquo;; while
+      the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and making speeches, the
+      officers, supposing all was friendly, left the troops, and drew near the
+      scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing Crows, perceiving this,
+      stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, contrived to stop the
+      touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly after, a
+      misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the Indians, knowing
+      the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult arose. In the
+      confusion, Colonel O&rsquo;Fallan snapped a pistol in the face of a brave, and
+      knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all in a fury. A
+      chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when Rose, his
+      natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke the stock of
+      his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so vigorously about
+      him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng to flight. Luckily,
+      as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting calmed the fury of the
+      Crows, and the tumult ended without serious consequences.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly known.
+      Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by his
+      licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud among the
+      Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and the influence he
+      acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial effects. He is said,
+      not merely to have rendered them more formidable to the Blackfeet, but to
+      have opened their eyes to the policy of cultivating the friendship of the
+      white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After Rose&rsquo;s death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with
+      indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who had
+      been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed to develope.
+      This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to restrain the
+      predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against the white men.
+      &ldquo;If we keep friends with them,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;we have nothing to fear from the
+      Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains.&rdquo; Arapooish pretended to be a great
+      &ldquo;medicine man&rdquo;, a character among the Indians which is a compound of
+      priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried about with him a tame
+      eagle, as his &ldquo;medicine&rdquo; or familiar. With the white men, he acknowledged
+      that this was all charlatanism, but said it was necessary, to give him
+      weight and influence among his people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the course
+      of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the village of
+      Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had collected a
+      large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered, deposited but a
+      part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a cache. One night,
+      Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and seated himself for a
+      time without saying a word. At length, turning to Campbell, &ldquo;You have more
+      furs with you,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;than you have brought into my lodge?&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I have,&rdquo; replied Campbell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Where are they?&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and the
+      importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where he
+      had concealed his peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;&lsquo;Tis well,&rdquo; replied Arapooish; &ldquo;you speak straight. It is just as you
+      say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been
+      taken from it.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one
+      hundred and fifty beaver skins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached
+      his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and
+      commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back:
+      declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he
+      would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged
+      Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring in
+      the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at a
+      time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them
+      departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat in one
+      corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a muscle of
+      his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all the skins had been
+      brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and Campbell expressed
+      himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He fasted all that night,
+      nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some more skins were brought
+      in, and continued to come, one and two at a time, throughout the day,
+      until but a few were wanting to make the number complete. Campbell was now
+      anxious to put an end to this fasting of the old chief, and again declared
+      that he was perfectly satisfied. Arapooish demanded what number of skins
+      were yet wanting. On being told, he whispered to some of his people, who
+      disappeared. After a time the number were brought in, though it was
+      evident they were not any of the skins that had been stolen, but others
+      gleaned in the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Is all right now?&rdquo; demanded Arapooish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;All is right,&rdquo; replied Campbell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Good! Now bring me meat and drink!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his
+      guest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;When you come another time among the Crows,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;don&rsquo;t hide your
+      goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the
+      lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one
+      who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for my
+      sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may be
+      disposed to be troublesome. Don&rsquo;t linger, therefore, but pack your horses
+      and be off.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow country.
+      He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black as they are
+      painted. &ldquo;Trust to their honor,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;and you are safe: trust to
+      their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the course
+      of our narrative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      23.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure from&mdash;Green River valley&mdash;Popo-Agie&mdash;Its course&mdash;
+     The rivers into which it runs&mdash;Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring&mdash;Volcanic tracts in the Crow country&mdash;
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River&mdash;Sulphur springs&mdash;Hidden
+     fires&mdash;Colter&rsquo;s Hell-Wind River&mdash;Campbell&rsquo;s party&mdash;
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers&mdash;Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller&mdash;Nathaniel Wyeth&mdash;Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West&mdash;Disaster of Campbell&rsquo;s party&mdash;A union of
+     bands&mdash;The Bad Pass&mdash;The rapids&mdash;Departure of Fitzpatrick&mdash;
+     Embarkation of peltries&mdash;Wyeth and his bull boat&mdash;Adventures
+     of Captain&mdash;Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains&mdash;Adventures
+     in the plain&mdash;Traces of Indians&mdash;Travelling precautions&mdash;
+     Dangers of making a smoke&mdash;The rendezvous
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out on
+      his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men,
+      including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River
+      valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of
+      mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell&rsquo;s party,
+      which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived that
+      it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this was
+      different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to the
+      northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream takes
+      its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian names, is
+      characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head; and Agie,
+      river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the south end of the
+      Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it falls into the
+      Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains, but is twice crossed
+      by chains of mountains; the first called the Littlehorn; the second, the
+      Bighorn. After it has forced its way through the first chain, it is called
+      the Horn River; after the second chain, it is called the Bighorn River.
+      Its passage through this last chain is rough and violent; making repeated
+      falls, and rushing down long and furious rapids, which threaten
+      destruction to the navigator; though a hardy trapper is said to have shot
+      down them in a canoe. At the foot of these rapids, is the head of
+      navigation; where it was the intention of the parties to construct boats,
+      and embark.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in full
+      view of the &ldquo;Bluffs,&rdquo; as they are called, extending from the base of the
+      Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the eye a
+      confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and angular,
+      some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up in
+      fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no soil
+      favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all this
+      isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints and
+      hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this neighborhood, the captain made search for &ldquo;the great Tar Spring,&rdquo;
+       one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties of which, he
+      had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a toilsome search,
+      he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east of the Wind River
+      Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the color and consistency
+      of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect a quantity of it, to use
+      as an ointment for the galled backs of their horses, and as a balsam for
+      their own pains and aches. From the description given of it, it is
+      evidently the bituminous oil, called petrolium or naphtha, which forms a
+      principal ingredient in the potent medicine called British Oil. It is
+      found in various parts of Europe and Asia, in several of the West India
+      islands, and in some places of the United States. In the state of New
+      York, it is called Seneca Oil, from being found near the Seneca lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in
+      superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the
+      trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding with
+      anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places
+      emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A
+      volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of the
+      tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the odor
+      derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned place was
+      first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and Clarke&rsquo;s
+      exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely wanderings,
+      and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden fires, smoking
+      pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading &ldquo;smell of brimstone,&rdquo; that it
+      received, and has ever since retained among trappers, the name of
+      &ldquo;Colter&rsquo;s Hell!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain
+      Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams
+      entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name
+      to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most
+      important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen,
+      Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for a
+      fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the
+      afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on the
+      opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were Indians;
+      he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and, by the long
+      line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of Campbell, which,
+      having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to the Horn River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the 4th of
+      August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn Mountain. In
+      company with Campbell&rsquo;s convoy was a trapping party of the Rocky Mountain
+      Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell&rsquo;s embarkation on the
+      Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses, and proceed on a trapping
+      campaign. There were, moreover, two chance companions in the rival camp.
+      One was Captain Stewart, of the British army, a gentleman of noble
+      connections, who was amusing himself by a wandering tour in the Far West;
+      in the course of which, he had lived in hunter&rsquo;s style; accompanying
+      various bands of traders, trappers, and Indians; and manifesting that
+      relish for the wilderness that belongs to men of game spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell&rsquo;s camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth;
+      the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with whom
+      we parted company in the valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, after the battle with
+      the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out from the
+      rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of trappers. On
+      his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to the deserted
+      fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a dismal scene. The
+      fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the slain; while vultures
+      soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around; and Indian dogs howled
+      about the place, as if bewailing the death of their masters. Wyeth
+      travelled for a considerable distance to the southwest, in company with
+      Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the former, with eleven men, the
+      remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake River; kept down the course of
+      that eventful stream; traversed the Blue Mountains, trapping beaver
+      occasionally by the way, and finally, after hardships of all kinds,
+      arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver, on the Columbia, the main
+      factory of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that
+      company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or
+      tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue any
+      longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some entered
+      into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the goods he had
+      brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a word, his
+      expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a failure. He
+      lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as strong as
+      ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of service to
+      him in the further prosecution of his project; collected all the
+      information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by merely two
+      men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got thus far &ldquo;by
+      hook and by crook,&rdquo; a mode in which a New England man can make his way all
+      over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties, and was now bound
+      for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a company for the
+      salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of their
+      route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were
+      reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one
+      night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this
+      tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and
+      confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the
+      horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head, and
+      nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses, leaving the
+      rest of the party to find their way to the main body on foot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus
+      fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great good
+      fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The captain,
+      however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his trappers, who
+      kept profound silence as to their future movements, intended to hunt the
+      same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal campaign; which lay to
+      the west of the Horn River, on its tributary streams. In the course of his
+      march, therefore, he secretly detached a small party of trappers, to make
+      their way to those hunting grounds, while he continued on with the main
+      body; appointing a rendezvous, at the next full moon, about the 28th of
+      August, at a place called the Medicine Lodge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where the
+      river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with cascades
+      and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks, and traverse
+      the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically called the
+      &ldquo;Bad Pass.&rdquo; Descending the opposite side, they again made for the river
+      banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below the rapids
+      where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain Bonneville
+      detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten men, to seek and
+      join those whom he had detached while on the route; appointing for them
+      the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the 28th of August.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to construct &ldquo;bull boats,&rdquo; as they are
+      technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of the
+      expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo
+      skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats.
+      Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood,
+      launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down
+      an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries
+      teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow traveller,
+      and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, took passage in
+      his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two Indians. We shall
+      hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the course of our
+      wanderings about the Far West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That of
+      Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he embarked
+      all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a party of
+      thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and the little
+      squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the Bighorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his men
+      first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably,
+      superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in
+      that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the
+      peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above a
+      hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder, and
+      Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was desirous of
+      having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures they met with in
+      that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall have something to
+      relate hereafter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign
+      without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at
+      Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six
+      horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain
+      and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril for a
+      numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his
+      difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon of his first day&rsquo;s journey, on drawing near to the
+      Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the
+      night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from its
+      base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very irregular;
+      sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up in heavy
+      volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there; probably,
+      some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do for so small
+      a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture within sight of
+      any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his companions, therefore,
+      avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and, proceeding with extreme caution,
+      reached the summit of the mountain, apparently without being discovered.
+      Here they found a deserted Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced
+      themselves; disposed of every thing as securely as possible, and passed
+      the night without molestation. Early the next morning they descended the
+      south side of the mountain into the great plain extending between it and
+      the Littlehorn range. Here they soon came upon numerous footprints, and
+      the carcasses of buffaloes; by which they knew there must be Indians not
+      far off. Captain Bonneville now began to feel solicitude about the two
+      small parties of trappers which he had detached, lest the Indians should
+      have come upon them before they had united their forces. But he felt still
+      more solicitude about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he
+      could traverse these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad;
+      and should he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one.
+      Everything now depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous
+      to discharge a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such
+      quick-eared and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the
+      day they saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in
+      great numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they
+      encamped with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for
+      their protection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but cautiously,
+      across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the Horn River;
+      encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island; meeting,
+      repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in passing through a
+      defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock their rifles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution, and
+      they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the report.
+      They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with them to the
+      place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived safely, in the
+      evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a fortress
+      of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest caution.
+      Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no glare, and a
+      moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance. In the morning
+      and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises perpendicularly
+      in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the tree-tops, and can
+      be discovered from afar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously
+      encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had been
+      expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had their
+      several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we will
+      furnish to the reader in the next chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      24.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Adventures of the party of ten&mdash;The&mdash;Balaamite mule&mdash;A dead
+     point&mdash;The mysterious elks&mdash;A night attack&mdash;A retreat&mdash;
+     Travelling under an alarm&mdash;A joyful meeting&mdash;Adventures of
+     the other party&mdash;A decoy elk&mdash;Retreat to an island&mdash;A savage
+     dance of triumph&mdash;Arrival at Wind River
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These
+      trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where
+      the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain, and
+      having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set his trap
+      in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his steed came to a
+      full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to every blow and kick
+      the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused to budge an inch. The
+      rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of some cause for this
+      demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian fort within gunshot
+      distance, lowering through the twilight. In a twinkling he wheeled about;
+      his mule now seemed as eager to get on as himself, and in a few moments
+      brought him, clattering with his traps, among his comrades. He was jeered
+      at for his alacrity in retreating; his report was treated as a false
+      alarm; his brother trappers contented themselves with reconnoitring the
+      fort at a distance, and pronounced that it was deserted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on
+      his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard
+      stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their
+      blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with a
+      long day&rsquo;s march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a profound
+      sleep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the sentinel
+      stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped as heartily
+      as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to nod at his
+      post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He half opened
+      his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about the lodges,
+      picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight of elk within
+      the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but having had his
+      supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to graze about
+      unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and
+      tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to
+      secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking,
+      and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and
+      firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded in
+      driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered still
+      more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage, and camp
+      furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The Indians, in
+      the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up the most horrible
+      clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or frightening off the
+      horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked them briskly and drove
+      them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept up for an hour, when the
+      Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave up the contest and retired.
+      They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet, who, while in search of the
+      Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of Captain Bonneville on the Popo
+      Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but had been completely baffled by
+      his vigilance. They had then waylaid the present detachment, and were
+      actually housed in perfect silence within their fort, when the mule of the
+      trapper made such a dead point.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility,
+      mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of
+      the most insulting kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed. On
+      preparing the morning&rsquo;s meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and other
+      articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by the
+      fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel. As the
+      Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had intended to
+      travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward rapidly through
+      the &ldquo;Bad Pass,&rdquo; nor halted until night; when, supposing themselves out of
+      the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with tying up their
+      horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to sleep, when a dog
+      strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons tied upon his back;
+      for dogs are made to carry burdens among the Indians. The sentinel, more
+      knowing than he of the preceding night, awoke his companions and reported
+      the circumstance. It was evident that Indians were at hand. All were
+      instantly at work; a strong pen was soon constructed for the horses, after
+      completing which, they resumed their slumbers with the composure of men
+      long inured to dangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various
+      suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them.
+      Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which, with
+      the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be that of
+      the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his march,
+      and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from various
+      signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the Indians.
+      They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried them to the
+      banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its course, until
+      they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here, to their great
+      joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in search, all
+      strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and anxiety.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers. These
+      men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville, had
+      proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river, trapping
+      beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit their traps,
+      one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a distance, and
+      requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started off for the
+      purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some savages in
+      ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off his hide and
+      his horn, started forth an Indian warrior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the others
+      fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could carry off,
+      retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge among the
+      willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had fallen, but
+      who had merely been wounded in the neck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with all
+      the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among the
+      spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came
+      sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached near
+      by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at the same
+      moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and warned of his
+      danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a moment, bewildered and
+      aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and made off at full speed,
+      quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians rattled after him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed a
+      circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky trappers
+      for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they considered
+      cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their usual mode of
+      bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of the willows. A
+      sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden halt, and laid
+      three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed himself on an
+      eminence to direct all the movements of his people, seeing three of his
+      warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They immediately did so,
+      and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point of woods, carrying off
+      with them the horses, traps, and the greater part of the baggage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered
+      this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up
+      after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could not
+      be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in a
+      neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made
+      their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well as
+      from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in a
+      neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also, who
+      visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of Crows
+      marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore, on the
+      1st of September, made his way to the south, across the Littlehorn
+      Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning westward, moved
+      slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his men to trap as he
+      proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present hunting campaigns to
+      go near the caches on Green River, and as the trappers were in want of
+      traps to replace those they had lost, Captain Bonneville undertook to
+      visit the caches, and procure a supply. To accompany him in this hazardous
+      expedition, which would take him through the defiles of the Wind River
+      Mountains, and up the Green River valley, he took but three men; the main
+      party were to continue on trapping up toward the head of Wind River, near
+      which he was to rejoin them, just about the place where that stream issues
+      from the mountains. We shall accompany the captain on his adventurous
+      errand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      25.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley&mdash;Journey
+     up the Popo Agie&mdash;Buffaloes&mdash;The staring white bears&mdash;The
+     smok&mdash;The warm springs&mdash;Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains&mdash;The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms&mdash;
+     Crystal lakes&mdash;Ascent of a snowy peak&mdash;Sublime prospect&mdash;A
+     panorama &ldquo;Les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or wild men of the mountains
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville and
+      his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they fell
+      upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their course,
+      nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous droves of
+      buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of beef. As the
+      hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the game, two small
+      white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path, and, rising upon
+      their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a whimsically solemn
+      gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the bears, having
+      apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves upon all fours,
+      and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon which the bears
+      turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated their serio-comic
+      examination. This was repeated several times, until the hunters, piqued at
+      their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a discharge of their rifles. The
+      bears made an awkward bound or two, as if wounded, and then walked off
+      with great gravity, seeming to commune together, and every now and then
+      turning to take another look at the hunters. It was well for the latter
+      that the bears were but half grown, and had not yet acquired the ferocity
+      of their kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but the
+      hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having secured
+      the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after dark, when,
+      encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great fire, roasted
+      buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the whole of it with
+      keen relish and high glee, and then &ldquo;turned in&rdquo; for the night and slept
+      soundly, like weary and well fed hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river,
+      passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful groves
+      of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville observed a
+      smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the route he was
+      pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed the horses in a
+      thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled cautiously up a
+      height, from which he could overlook the scene of danger. Here, with a
+      spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding country, but not a lodge nor
+      fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be discovered; in short, the smoke
+      which had caused such alarm proved to be the vapor from several warm, or
+      rather hot springs of considerable magnitude, pouring forth streams in
+      every direction over a bottom of white clay. One of the springs was about
+      twenty-five yards in diameter, and so deep that the water was of a bright
+      green color.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River Mountains,
+      which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round their
+      southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they force their
+      way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The mountains
+      were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped, however,
+      that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted, accordingly,
+      to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the branches of the Popo
+      Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of stupendous crags and
+      precipices that barred all progress. Retracing their steps, and falling
+      back upon the river, they consulted where to make another attempt. They
+      were too close beneath the mountains to scan them generally, but they now
+      recollected having noticed, from the plain, a beautiful slope rising, at
+      an angle of about thirty degrees, and apparently without any break, until
+      it reached the snowy region. Seeking this gentle acclivity, they began to
+      ascend it with alacrity, trusting to find at the top one of those elevated
+      plains which prevail among the Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with
+      coarse gravel, interspersed with plates of freestone. They attained the
+      summit with some toil, but found, instead of a level, or rather undulating
+      plain, that they were on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from
+      the bottom of which rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just
+      ascended. Down into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged
+      path, or rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second
+      slope. They gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine,
+      and now perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a
+      sloping and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by
+      frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and
+      dangerous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly and
+      sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and
+      scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous
+      and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded.
+      Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain
+      stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they availed
+      themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep, which,
+      however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or led to
+      rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they were
+      obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which attempt
+      some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the bottom, and
+      came near being dashed to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the
+      elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were
+      two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of
+      stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly
+      refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those
+      mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander
+      hundreds of miles through the plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted to
+      repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and tender
+      herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level of the
+      plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon another, and
+      beetling like battlements far above them. While two of the men remained in
+      the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville, accompanied by the other men
+      [man], set out to climb a neighboring height, hoping to gain a commanding
+      prospect, and discern some practicable route through this stupendous
+      labyrinth. After much toil, he reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it
+      was only to behold gigantic peaks rising all around, and towering far into
+      the snowy regions of the atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be
+      the highest, he crossed a narrow intervening valley, and began to scale
+      it. He soon found that he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride
+      of man is never more obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent
+      was so steep and rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged
+      to clamber on hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs.
+      Frequently, exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they
+      threw themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their
+      parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and hung
+      them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble over
+      these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool
+      breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to
+      their task, they at length attained the summit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time
+      astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact, upon
+      that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world; and on
+      each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the two
+      cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it was
+      confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the Rocky
+      Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn valleys;
+      treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming torrents;
+      while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an almost
+      immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and hazy
+      distance, like the expanse of a summer&rsquo;s sea. Whichever way he looked, he
+      beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty streams
+      wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy
+      mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted like
+      clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed realized: he
+      had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior, after death,
+      first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the happy hunting
+      grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes of the free and
+      generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while gazing upon this
+      scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas and sensations. A
+      long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from this enthralment of the
+      mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this vast panorama. A simple
+      enumeration of a few of its features may give some idea of its collective
+      grandeur and magnificence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole Wind
+      River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense
+      mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with
+      narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes and
+      gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty tributaries
+      to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks, to the south,
+      and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river, called the Sweet
+      Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the rugged regions of
+      the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind River wandered
+      through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current, they forced
+      their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost to view. To
+      the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the Yellowstone,
+      that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction were to be seen
+      some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing to the northwest,
+      past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and pouring down into the
+      great lava plain; while, almost at the captain&rsquo;s feet, the Green River, or
+      Colorado of the West, set forth on its wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of
+      California; at first a mere mountain torrent, dashing northward over a
+      crag and precipice, in a succession of cascades, and tumbling into the
+      plain where, expanding into an ample river, it circled away to the south,
+      and after alternately shining out and disappearing in the mazes of the
+      vast landscape, was finally lost in a horizon of mountains. The day was
+      calm and cloudless, and the atmosphere so pure that objects were
+      discernible at an astonishing distance. The whole of this immense area was
+      inclosed by an outer range of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked
+      on the horizon, which seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with him
+      with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it as his
+      opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American continent; but
+      of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain that the Rocky
+      Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was formerly
+      supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest peak is
+      further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr. Thompson,
+      surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means of the
+      barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be twenty-five
+      thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only inferior to
+      that of the Himalayas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with wonder
+      and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling about the
+      snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained the spot
+      where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their coats, which
+      were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down the peak, they
+      safely rejoined their companions on the border of the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these
+      mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out
+      hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley.
+      Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three
+      savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call
+      their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled the
+      faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and reported
+      what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that these belonged
+      to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit the highest and
+      most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie language, and
+      probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have peculiarities of
+      their own, which distinguish them from all other Indians. They are
+      miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of every convenience to
+      be derived from an intercourse with the whites. Their weapons are bows and
+      stone-pointed arrows, with which they hunt the deer, the elk, and the
+      mountain sheep. They are to be found scattered about the countries of the
+      Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are
+      always in lonely places, and the clefts of the rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary
+      valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried among
+      the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still more
+      rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their dread of
+      strangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are
+      inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare: should
+      one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he is sure to be
+      made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a scalp, and that
+      barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings, forming a mere
+      link between human nature and the brute, have been looked down upon with
+      pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have given them the
+      appellation of &ldquo;les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or &ldquo;the objects of pity.&rdquo;; They
+      appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      26.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent&mdash;Alpine
+     scenery&mdash;Cascades&mdash;Beaver valleys&mdash;Beavers at work&mdash;Their
+     architecture&mdash;Their modes of felling trees&mdash;Mode of trapping
+     beaver&mdash;Contests of skill&mdash;A beaver &ldquo;up to trap&rdquo;&mdash;Arrival at
+     the Green River caches
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had
+      excited Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would
+      be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers of
+      cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he endeavored
+      to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round the southern
+      point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself from the heart
+      of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as to penetrate it.
+      Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream, the commencement
+      of some future river, he descended from rock to rock, and shelf to shelf,
+      between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that sprang up to the sky.
+      Often he had to cross and recross the rushing torrent, as it wound foaming
+      and roaring down its broken channel, or was walled by perpendicular
+      precipices; and imminent was the hazard of breaking the legs of the horses
+      in the clefts and fissures of slippery rocks. The whole scenery of this
+      deep ravine was of Alpine wildness and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers
+      passed beneath cascades which pitched from such lofty heights that the
+      water fell into the stream like heavy rain. In other places, torrents came
+      tumbling from crag to crag, dashing into foam and spray, and making
+      tremendous din and uproar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond the
+      steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged ravine
+      began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and the stream
+      to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character. Here, not merely
+      the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it, was dammed up by
+      communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate the neighborhood,
+      and make continual swamps.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville
+      left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to
+      reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and
+      caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work upon
+      the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold the mode of
+      operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward, therefore, with
+      the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water willows without
+      making any noise, until having attained a position commanding a view of
+      the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the ground, and watched the
+      solitary workman. In a little while, three others appeared at the head of
+      the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With these they proceeded directly to
+      the barrier, which Captain Bonneville perceived was in need of repair.
+      Having deposited their loads upon the broken part, they dived into the
+      water, and shortly reappeared at the surface. Each now brought a quantity
+      of mud, with which he would plaster the sticks and bushes just deposited.
+      This kind of masonry was continued for some time, repeated supplies of
+      wood and mud being brought, and treated in the same manner. This done, the
+      industrious beavers indulged in a little recreation, chasing each other
+      about the pond, dodging and whisking about on the surface, or diving to
+      the bottom; and in their frolic, often slapping their tails on the water
+      with a loud clacking sound. While they were thus amusing themselves,
+      another of the fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their
+      sports for some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed
+      the bank close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on
+      his hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young
+      pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would
+      tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining his
+      sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of a
+      monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down the
+      tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by the
+      approach of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men, who, feeling anxious at the
+      protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the
+      sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived at
+      once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain Bonneville
+      regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the sagacity of the
+      beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said, they manage to make
+      them fall into the water, and in such a position and direction as may be
+      most favorable for conveyance to the desired point. In the present
+      instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it grew
+      perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the beaver
+      could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really capable of
+      exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently engaged in
+      &ldquo;belting&rdquo; the tree, and his first incision had been on the side nearest to
+      the water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged
+      sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has no
+      other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle calculation
+      as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he thinks, has
+      been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees growing near
+      water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or stretch their
+      largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space, the light, and
+      the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks those trees
+      which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or pond. He
+      makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them with his
+      teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in which
+      their trunks or branches preponderate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I have often,&rdquo; says Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;seen trees measuring eighteen
+      inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the
+      beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently for
+      the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do they at
+      times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on Snake River,
+      a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which he had made,
+      the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until he died.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by the
+      beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter
+      provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this
+      business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited.
+      Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the
+      branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into
+      lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to
+      their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious of
+      cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts, will
+      carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw them
+      into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of their
+      territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange beaver
+      to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence as almost
+      to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the breeding season,
+      the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a tour of pleasure,
+      rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself in every clear and
+      quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing the banks occasionally to
+      feast upon the tender sprouts of the young willows. As summer advances, he
+      gives up his bachelor rambles, and bethinking himself of housekeeping
+      duties, returns home to his mate and his new progeny, and marshals them
+      all for the foraging expedition in quest of winter provisions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal as
+      a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as the
+      father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is
+      environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to
+      the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he can
+      detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the lodge
+      may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can
+      generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of its
+      inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the shore,
+      in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of the water,
+      and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A small twig is
+      then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the &ldquo;medicine,&rdquo; as the
+      trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ. This end of the stick
+      rises about four inches above the surface of the water, the other end is
+      planted between the jaws of the trap. The beaver, possessing an acute
+      sense of smell, is soon attracted by the odor of the bait. As he raises
+      his nose toward it, his foot is caught in the trap. In his fright he
+      throws a somerset into the deep water. The trap, being fastened to the
+      pole, resists all his efforts to drag it to the shore; the chain by which
+      it is fastened defies his teeth; he struggles for a time, and at length
+      sinks to the bottom and is drowned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is
+      thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened by
+      the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he is
+      entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however, it
+      costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming,
+      before he finds his game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are
+      trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and can
+      scarcely be &ldquo;brought to medicine,&rdquo; to use the trapper&rsquo;s phrase for &ldquo;taking
+      the bait.&rdquo; In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the bait, and
+      conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of the
+      household. The beaver now being completely &ldquo;up to trap,&rdquo; approaches them
+      cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other times, he
+      turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and occasionally even
+      drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the mud. The trapper now
+      gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering his traps, marches off,
+      admitting that he is not yet &ldquo;up to beaver.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      On the day following Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s supervision of the industrious
+      and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying an
+      account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River
+      Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend to
+      the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived
+      without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous in
+      Green River valley, on the 17th of September.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods and
+      equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the necessary
+      supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all traces that
+      might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      27.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Route toward&mdash;Wind River&mdash;Dangerous neighborhood&mdash;Alarms and
+     precautions&mdash;A sham encampment&mdash;Apparition of an Indian spy&mdash;
+     Midnight move&mdash;A mountain defile&mdash;The Wind River valley&mdash;
+     Tracking a party&mdash;Deserted camps&mdash;Symptoms of Crows&mdash;Meeting
+     of comrades&mdash;A trapper entrapped&mdash;Crow pleasantry&mdash;Crow
+     spies&mdash;A decampment&mdash;Return to Green River valley&mdash;Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick&rsquo;s party&mdash;Their adventures among the Crows&mdash;
+     Orthodox Crows
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions set
+      out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had
+      parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with that
+      stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River
+      Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile
+      which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains, to
+      the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party,
+      according to arrangement.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood,
+      infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous
+      defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and
+      surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything
+      that might give intimation of lurking danger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill, they
+      discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction. One of
+      the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was concluded,
+      therefore, that there was some party of Indians below, hunting the
+      buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the captain,
+      mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view, reconnoitred the
+      whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was to be seen; so,
+      after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey. Convinced, however,
+      that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced with the utmost
+      caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines, and avoiding, as
+      much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground, that might betray his
+      little party to the watchful eye of an Indian scout.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering on the
+      river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see, scampering
+      in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his companions
+      remained for a long time watching the various groups of the animals, as
+      each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in vain to discover
+      the cause.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green
+      River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore,
+      arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and
+      convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they
+      again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping
+      for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville,
+      therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for
+      encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently dark,
+      to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some
+      secluded spot for their night&rsquo;s lodgings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made a
+      large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when
+      sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting off
+      huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter&rsquo;s
+      appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to attract
+      the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they trusted to
+      be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place. While they
+      were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party suddenly started up
+      and shouted &ldquo;Indians!&rdquo; All were instantly on their feet, with their rifles
+      in their hands; but could see no enemy. The man, however, declared that he
+      had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously, along the trail which they had
+      made in coming to the encampment; who, the moment he was perceived, had
+      thrown himself on the ground, and disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville
+      instantly to decamp. The captain, however, took the matter more coolly.
+      The single fact, that the Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced
+      him that he was not one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He
+      was, probably, some scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came
+      in sight of their fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he
+      had seen to his companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped
+      for the night, would keep aloof until very late, when all should be
+      asleep. They would, then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy
+      approaches, and place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their
+      attack, at the usual hour of daylight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s conclusion; in consequence of which, he
+      counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from all
+      alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly,
+      continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then
+      trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon, however,
+      as the night had completely set in, they left their fire blazing; walked
+      quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their saddles, made off
+      as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left the point of danger
+      behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious taciturnity, and
+      began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they pictured to
+      themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted fire, waiting for
+      the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand disappointment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure distance,
+      they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the enemy should
+      follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a dense and matted
+      thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of the mountain,
+      instead of making for the summit, as they had originally intended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches morsels
+      of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when surrounded
+      by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for sleep with
+      perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and cook, it is
+      true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come to a halt, and
+      have provisions. They comforted themselves, however, by smoking a tranquil
+      pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning loose the horses,
+      stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that whoever should first
+      awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while were all as sound
+      asleep as though in the midst of a fortress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for
+      Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at a
+      little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or hear
+      an enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them to
+      the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the
+      sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into
+      their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the
+      mountain, avoiding the direct route.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course
+      so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now made
+      sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were tracks
+      of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had recently
+      returned, baffled in their search.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken
+      before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they pushed
+      briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they cautiously
+      concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of Wind
+      River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed the
+      rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the Crow
+      country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of that
+      restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon a trail
+      which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old, however,
+      that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood; driven off,
+      perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the prowl. He continued
+      his search with great anxiety, and no little fatigue; for his horses were
+      jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced marches and scramblings
+      through rocky defiles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a deserted
+      camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned back; but he
+      could find no signs to indicate why they had done so; whether they had met
+      with misfortune, or molestation, or in what direction they had gone. He
+      was now, more than ever, perplexed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The
+      feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the
+      rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About noon,
+      he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost their
+      trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a southerly
+      direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains, which
+      towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible speed, in
+      hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another of their
+      camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day dawned
+      sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that must be
+      dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were traces of
+      Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his people had
+      passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about them.
+      Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great distance, he
+      mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to overtake them,
+      to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt, until he should
+      rejoin them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with six
+      comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his accommodation;
+      and on the following day (September 25th), all hands were once more
+      reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their meeting was
+      hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and perplexities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had
+      been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they had
+      been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their horses
+      had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so closely
+      beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest they should
+      be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had caused such
+      perplexity to Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give
+      repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued
+      their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was
+      setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up, beheld a
+      party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a
+      considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was
+      discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells, they
+      dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their
+      tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave
+      himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather than
+      a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while, at the
+      expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow pranks and
+      pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true, they stripped
+      him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun, a third his traps,
+      a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his accoutrements, and even
+      his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then they generously made him
+      a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and dismissed him, with many
+      complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When the trapper returned to
+      the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted with peals of laughter from
+      his comrades and seemed more mortified by the style in which he had been
+      dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with his life. A circumstance which
+      he related to Captain Bonneville, gave some insight into the cause of this
+      extreme jocularity on the part of the Crows. They had evidently had a run
+      of luck, and, like winning gamblers, were in high good humor. Among
+      twenty-six fine horses, and some mules, which composed their cavalcade,
+      the trapper recognized a number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick&rsquo;s
+      brigade, when they parted company on the Bighorn. It was supposed,
+      therefore, that these vagabonds had been on his trail, and robbed him of
+      part of his cavalry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air
+      imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern,
+      in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of the
+      set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band, they
+      were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his usual
+      kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the camp,
+      and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he caused a
+      strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at night,
+      stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated against the
+      latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect them to be spies,
+      who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his precautions. At the
+      same time, he assured his guests, that while they were perfectly welcome
+      to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet, should any of their tribe
+      venture to approach during the night, they would certainly be shot; which
+      would be a very unfortunate circumstance, and much to be deplored. To the
+      latter remark, they fully assented; and shortly afterward commenced a wild
+      song, or chant, which they kept up for a long time, and in which they very
+      probably gave their friends, who might be prowling round the camp, notice
+      that the white men were on the alert. The night passed away without
+      disturbance. In the morning, the three Crow guests were very pressing that
+      Captain Bonneville and his party should accompany them to their camp,
+      which they said was close by. Instead of accepting their invitation,
+      Captain Bonneville took his departure with all possible dispatch, eager to
+      be out of the vicinity of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the
+      diligence of his march, until, on the second day, he reached the banks of
+      the Sweet Water, beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall
+      of snow had obliterated all traces of his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point
+      of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches,
+      on the 14th of October.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the
+      defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of them
+      on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back their
+      trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they had
+      discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but
+      fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions,
+      and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville
+      discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than
+      ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a
+      formidable band of freebooters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on
+      the 25th of October reached Liberge&rsquo;s Ford, a tributary of the Colorado,
+      where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which had
+      crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the water
+      that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they could
+      not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the Crow
+      nation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force
+      should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of
+      fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane&rsquo;s Fork, another
+      tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the 26th
+      of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed it to
+      arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to procure
+      information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band of
+      Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party of
+      trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of his
+      fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain
+      Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap upon
+      Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with him,
+      and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not pass through
+      the Crow country without attracting the attention of its freebooting
+      hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces, and came up with
+      them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached Tongue River. The
+      Crow chief came forward with great appearance of friendship, and proposed
+      to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp together. The latter, however, not
+      having any faith in Crows, declined the invitation, and pitched his camp
+      three miles off. He then rode over with two or three men, to visit the
+      Crow chief, by whom he was received with great apparent cordiality. In the
+      meantime, however, a party of young braves, who considered them absolved
+      by his distrust from all scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and
+      dashed into his encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the
+      absence of Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too
+      numerous and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made
+      booty of every thing&mdash;carrying off all the horses. On their way back
+      they met Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by
+      rifling and nearly stripping him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the
+      triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of,
+      we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain to
+      return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles and
+      a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all speed to
+      abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh disasters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows
+      pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out of
+      their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation of the
+      Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about him on
+      his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and mules. It
+      was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely trapper on the
+      Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in exchange for his
+      rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these anecdotes, we
+      shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and its vagabond
+      chivalry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      28.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A region of natural curiosities&mdash;The plain of white clay&mdash;
+     Hot springs&mdash;The Beer Spring&mdash;Departure to seek the free
+     trappers&mdash;Plain of Portneuf&mdash;Lava&mdash;Chasms and gullies&mdash;
+     Bannack Indians&mdash;Their hunt of the buffalo&mdash;Hunter&rsquo;s feast&mdash;
+     Trencher heroes&mdash;Bullying of an absent foe&mdash;The damp
+     comrade&mdash;The Indian spy&mdash;Meeting with Hodgkiss&mdash;His
+     adventures&mdash;Poordevil Indians&mdash;Triumph of the Bannacks&mdash;
+     Blackfeet policy in war
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear River,
+      which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake, describes
+      the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters of this
+      river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never been visited by
+      the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being barricadoed [sic] by
+      fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November, at
+      the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three miles
+      in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and connected
+      with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the Little Lake, to
+      distinguish it from the great one of salt water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the
+      neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area of
+      about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or
+      fuller&rsquo;s earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian
+      marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful at
+      all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in autumn,
+      when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the withered herbage.
+      Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like a mirror, set in the
+      brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered numerous springs of
+      various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of scalding heat, boils
+      furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of two or three feet. In
+      another place, there is an aperture in the earth, from which rushes a
+      column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The ground for some distance
+      around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary trapper, as he hears the
+      tramp of his horse giving the sound of a muffled drum. He pictures to
+      himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of hidden fires, and gazes round
+      him with awe and uneasiness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer
+      Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn
+      aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with as
+      much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert. Captain
+      Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men drank it with
+      avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him to possess any
+      medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects. The Indians,
+      however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the white men from
+      doing so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as
+      containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the properties
+      of the Ballston water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the
+      party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the
+      command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River. His
+      intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at present
+      travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the winter.
+      Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave of his
+      band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by three
+      men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain of the
+      Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an unfortunate
+      Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country through which
+      he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and conflagrations in the
+      olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered about in every direction;
+      the crags and cliffs had apparently been under the action of fire; the
+      rocks in some places seemed to have been in a state of fusion; the plain
+      was rent and split with deep chasms and gullies, some of which were partly
+      filled with lava.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of horsemen,
+      galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and made full
+      speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves among the
+      trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came forward alone. He
+      reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they were dismounting and
+      about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all uneasiness. It was a
+      party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to the whites, and they
+      proposed, through their envoy, that both parties should encamp together,
+      and hunt the buffalo, of which they had discovered several large herds
+      hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully assented to their proposition,
+      being curious to see their manner of hunting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and
+      prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill near
+      the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The &ldquo;runners,&rdquo; then, as they are
+      called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and arrows, moved
+      slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much as possible out
+      of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper distance, a signal
+      was given, and they all opened at once like a pack of hounds, with a full
+      chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the herds, and launching their
+      arrows to the right and left. The plain seemed absolutely to shake under
+      the tramp of the buffalo, as they scoured off. The cows in headlong panic,
+      the bulls furious with rage, uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning
+      with a desperate rush upon their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the
+      spirit, grace, and dexterity, with which the Indians managed their horses;
+      wheeling and coursing among the affrighted herd, and launching their
+      arrows with unerring aim. In the midst of the apparent confusion, they
+      selected their victims with perfect judgment, generally aiming at the
+      fattest of the cows, the flesh of the bull being nearly worthless, at this
+      season of the year. In a few minutes, each of the hunters had crippled
+      three or four cows. A single shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the
+      animal, once maimed, was left to be completely dispatched at the end of
+      the chase. Frequently, a cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In
+      one instance, Captain Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely
+      through the body of a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The
+      bulls, however, are not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the
+      hunter several arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and
+      chasing them furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still
+      sticking in their flesh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to
+      dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the
+      carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the
+      choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters&rsquo;
+      feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified,
+      by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed to
+      be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they crammed
+      themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the supper at an
+      end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their mighty deeds, and
+      the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet. Warming with the theme,
+      and inflating themselves with their own eulogies, these magnanimous heroes
+      of the trencher would start up, advance a short distance beyond the light
+      of the fire, and apostrophize most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as
+      though they had been within hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting,
+      and slapping their breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would
+      vociferate all their exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had
+      drenched their towns in tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had
+      inflicted, the warriors they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in
+      triumph. Then, having said everything that could stir a man&rsquo;s spleen or
+      pique his valor, they would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the
+      Bannacks were few in number, to come and take their revenge&mdash;receiving
+      no reply to this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of
+      sneers and insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons,
+      that dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and
+      rhodomontade in which the &ldquo;red men&rdquo; are prone to indulge in their
+      vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are
+      vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and to
+      sound their own trumpet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack braves
+      gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their ruffled
+      feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a single guard
+      over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at their word, but
+      few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any further boasting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of buffalo
+      meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing, were in
+      fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of almost everything
+      that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain concluded, the
+      Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated, they said, at the
+      mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his companions shaped
+      their course toward Snake River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous, but
+      not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the horses
+      was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from the
+      saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were
+      extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely
+      drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While they
+      were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived an Indian scout
+      cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a neighboring hill. The
+      moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared behind the hill. From
+      his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville suspected him to be a scout from
+      the Blackfeet camp, and that he had gone to report what he had seen to his
+      companions. It would not do to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the
+      kindling of the fire was abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in
+      dripping condition, and the little band pushed forward directly into the
+      plain, going at a smart pace, until they had gained a considerable
+      distance from the place of supposed danger. Here encamping for the night,
+      in the midst of abundance of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for
+      their horses, they kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp
+      comrade, and then proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps
+      and ribs, and other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a
+      hearty repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they
+      stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry
+      canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and well-fed
+      mountaineers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident
+      worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the
+      party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie, and
+      deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to discover
+      by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that the trappers had
+      left them; at length, after much wandering and investigating, they came
+      upon the regular trail of the hunting party, which led into the mountains,
+      and following it up briskly, came about two o&rsquo;clock in the afternoon of
+      the 20th, upon the encampment of Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers,
+      in the bosom of a mountain valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters of
+      themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain
+      Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July, preferring
+      to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River, where they expected to
+      find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous neighborhood. Their hunt had
+      not been very successful. They had penetrated the great range of mountains
+      among which some of the upper branches of Salmon River take their rise,
+      but had become so entangled among immense and almost impassable barricades
+      of fallen pines, and so impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great
+      part of their season had been wasted among these mountains. At one time,
+      they had made their way through them, and reached the Boisee River; but
+      meeting with a band of Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended
+      hostilities, they had again taken shelter among the mountains, where they
+      were found by Captain Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment,
+      the captain had the good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers
+      of the mountains, emphatically called &ldquo;les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or Poordevil
+      Indians. These, however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had
+      with them a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep.
+      These, Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and
+      sent them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy
+      to all their pitiful tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain
+      Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out to
+      rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might all
+      go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered many
+      heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to impede
+      his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party, encamped
+      at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt with the
+      Bannacks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were just
+      then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever,
+      celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their braves
+      being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet moving,
+      as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks immediately
+      posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through which the enemy
+      must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst of it, attacked
+      them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden panic, threw off
+      their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their warriors dead on the
+      spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils; but their greatest prize
+      was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they bore off in triumph to
+      their village, where it had ever since been an object of the greatest
+      exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated upon a pole in the centre
+      of the village, where the warriors had celebrated the scalp dance round
+      it, with war feasts, war songs, and warlike harangues. It had then been
+      given up to the women and boys; who had paraded it up and down the village
+      with shouts and chants and antic dances; occasionally saluting it with all
+      kinds of taunts, invectives, and revilings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the
+      character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed, their
+      conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of inconsistencies;
+      at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless of danger; at
+      another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand these apparent
+      incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare. A war party,
+      however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight, bring back a
+      cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over the glory of
+      their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce and reckless in
+      general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and the chiefs are checked
+      in their boldest undertakings by the fear of sacrificing their warriors.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages, says
+      Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades, though
+      they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious victory,
+      will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning home with
+      dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and wait until
+      the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to mingle again with
+      their people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      29.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Winter camp at the Portneuf&mdash;Fine springs&mdash;The Bannack
+     Indians&mdash;Their honesty&mdash;Captain&mdash;Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition&mdash;Christmas&mdash;The American&mdash;Falls&mdash;Wild scenery&mdash;
+     Fishing Falls&mdash;Snake Indians&mdash;Scenery on the Bruneau&mdash;View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain&mdash;Powder River&mdash;
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers&mdash;Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs&mdash;Vanity at its last shift
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville had
+      drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid all
+      annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however, he had
+      been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the flat land,
+      where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing better for his
+      horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the contrary, were
+      encamped among fine springs of water, where there was grass in abundance.
+      Some of these springs gush out of the earth in sufficient quantity to turn
+      a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear as crystal, and full of trout
+      of a large size, which may be seen darting about the transparent water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in large
+      quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the continued
+      coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and
+      the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good will. A
+      few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their friends;
+      nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith of
+      their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and the want of fodder
+      obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam in quest of
+      sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the Bannacks, they
+      were immediately brought back. It must be confessed, however, that if the
+      stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in vigorous plight and good
+      condition, though he was equally sure to be returned by the honest
+      Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of several days, and in a very
+      gaunt and jaded state; and always with the remark that they had found him
+      a long way off. The uncharitable were apt to surmise that he had, in the
+      interim, been well used up in a buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to
+      Indian morality in the matter of horseflesh, considered it a singular
+      evidence of honesty that he should be brought back at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that his
+      people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as they were
+      valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter unmolested,
+      Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition of great extent
+      and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay establishments on
+      the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself acquainted with the country
+      and the Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a
+      trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to
+      participate in the trade lost to the United States by the capture of
+      Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him through the Snake
+      River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the scenes of so much
+      hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their Astorian bands, who
+      first explored it, and he would have to pass through it in the same
+      frightful season, the depth of winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the
+      adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his
+      journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form,
+      and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He
+      proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter
+      encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed, he
+      mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three
+      comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their
+      Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, after
+      which they resumed their journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow
+      had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed and
+      frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route lay to
+      the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were several
+      days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the river, for
+      a considerable distance, both above and below the falls, have a volcanic
+      character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another; the water
+      makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow
+      channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic
+      columns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable stream,
+      called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four miles wide,
+      where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and dryness of the
+      climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream there is a small
+      mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite, in small blocks, is
+      likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white sandstone. From this river,
+      the travellers had a prospect of the snowy heights of the Salmon River
+      Mountains to the north; the nearest, at least fifty miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept several
+      miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary streams;
+      though he often found the open country so encumbered by volcanic rocks, as
+      to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he approached Snake
+      River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with steep,
+      perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days&rsquo; travel across a
+      level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him with
+      astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the river was
+      walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet high,
+      beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and fragments lay
+      in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and whirling current.
+      Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade above forty feet in
+      height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in
+      the air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing Falls, as
+      the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They cannot get by these
+      falls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise,
+      descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in
+      the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the
+      only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their
+      travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were foot
+      tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their
+      progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region; a
+      timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their
+      dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of
+      rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders, in the
+      ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons were bows and
+      arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which abounds in the
+      neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and constructed of
+      branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to be warm and
+      comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small inclosures of
+      wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them a cottage-like
+      appearance. Three or four of these tenements were occasionally grouped
+      together in some wild and striking situation, and had a picturesque
+      effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet.
+      From these people, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party frequently purchased salmon,
+      dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This seemed to be
+      their prime article of food; but they were extremely anxious to get
+      buffalo meat in exchange.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long
+      inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were
+      enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the
+      river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery
+      of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character. The
+      rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small streams
+      come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines: one of a
+      considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within twenty-five
+      feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal line for
+      about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky
+      bank of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is upward
+      of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water. Sometimes it
+      steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other times, for
+      miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to
+      the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness and
+      picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is particularly
+      cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a valley, extending
+      upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in
+      traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across
+      from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so
+      that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks rise
+      perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the plain to the
+      water, or from the river margin to the plain. The current is bright and
+      limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of this river. One bursts out
+      of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a
+      mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains and
+      streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before us; who
+      ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this summit,
+      the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops of the
+      hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to
+      have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by
+      the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills. Through the
+      deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and brooks make their way,
+      which renders it difficult to follow them. All these basaltic channels are
+      called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of the mountain streams disappear
+      in the plains; either absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous
+      surface of the lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River;
+      much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He
+      struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he
+      found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river, and
+      in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance in
+      considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting
+      the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the
+      bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the strangers, and
+      watching every movement. These are of that branch of the great Snake tribe
+      called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their subsisting, in a great
+      measure, on the roots of the earth; though they likewise take fish in
+      great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They are, in general, very
+      poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life, and extremely indolent:
+      but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in many respects, from the
+      other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; who possess horses, are
+      more roving and adventurous, and hunt the buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth of Powder
+      River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these Diggers, as they
+      are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The women and children kept
+      at a distance, perched among the rocks and cliffs; their eager curiosity
+      being somewhat dashed with fear. From their elevated posts, they
+      scrutinized the strangers with the most intense earnestness; regarding
+      them with almost as much awe as if they had been beings of a supernatural
+      order.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned
+      Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity.
+      Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands on
+      underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive
+      neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before they
+      encamped for the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very
+      little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The plains
+      were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were, about the
+      same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they resembled the
+      isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains;
+      especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake
+      River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It
+      should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the
+      Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending
+      on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by
+      unbroken ridges of mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder River,
+      though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a lesson,
+      however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which they
+      subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings. They
+      frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted from the
+      bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying it always
+      lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would gather
+      together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an instant produce
+      a cheering blaze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these
+      Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. &ldquo;They
+      live,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;without any further protection from the inclemency of the
+      season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high, composed of
+      sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape of a half moon.&rdquo;
+       Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a large suite of
+      half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well as in civilized
+      life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs of
+      cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of the
+      neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel kind of
+      chase they acquitted themselves with some credit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping the
+      antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which this
+      is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared, says
+      Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into the
+      thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities,
+      construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a
+      hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game.
+      This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait
+      patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
+      spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women
+      give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them
+      enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round
+      the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way the
+      hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a continued
+      pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor antelopes, in
+      the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men enter and
+      dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered the inclosure.
+      The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an animal so fleet
+      and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life, should range round
+      and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to overleap the low
+      barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to be the fact; and
+      such their only mode of hunting the antelope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their
+      habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the
+      Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture
+      good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found in
+      their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of
+      basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid of
+      a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on which
+      they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities of seed,
+      of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the plants into
+      wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected is winnowed
+      and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of meal or flour;
+      which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable paste or gruel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay up
+      a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they were
+      ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in Indian
+      life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife, or a
+      fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and starvation;
+      and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers threw away
+      after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick them with the
+      greatest avidity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these Root
+      Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn
+      condition. &ldquo;They were destitute,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;of the necessary covering to
+      protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most
+      unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the use
+      of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a
+      thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity!
+      Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to
+      arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a
+      mirror. It was a &ldquo;great medicine,&rdquo; in their eyes. The sight of one was
+      sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and
+      delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest
+      fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this
+      simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall
+      close our remarks on the Root Diggers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      30.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Temperature of the climate&mdash;Root Diggers on horseback&mdash;An
+     Indian guide&mdash;Mountain prospects&mdash;The Grand Rond&mdash;
+     Difficulties on Snake River&mdash;A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains&mdash;Sufferings from hunger&mdash;Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley&mdash;The exhausted traveller
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much milder
+      than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper plains,
+      however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are subject in winter
+      to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty &ldquo;sierras,&rdquo; crowned
+      with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and streaks of intense cold
+      This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and his companions in their
+      progress westward. At the time when they left the Bannacks Snake River was
+      frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice became broken and floating; it
+      gradually disappeared, and the weather became warm and pleasant, as they
+      approached a tributary stream called the Little Wyer; and the soil, which
+      was generally of a watery clay, with occasional intervals of sand, was
+      soft to the tread of the horses. After a time, however, the mountains
+      approached and flanked the river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and
+      the current was once more icebound.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently
+      rising in the world, for they had &ldquo;horse to ride and weapon to wear,&rdquo; and
+      were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that
+      Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee
+      River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided
+      as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these
+      they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits
+      [sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that tribe
+      their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their
+      manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings; for
+      Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their hands,
+      and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable custom.
+      From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish, and an
+      excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had become too
+      weak for the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it is
+      true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on merrily,
+      considering themselves well provided for the journey, which could not be
+      of much longer duration.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which
+      flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives that
+      the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised them to
+      keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the snow.
+      Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the river, and
+      to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as had been predicted,
+      so that their horses once more had the benefit of tolerable pasturage.
+      Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging cheerily in the advance.
+      He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer and a beaver; but at night
+      found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted the occupant, upon which, with
+      the addition of a fish given him by the travellers, he made a hearty
+      supper, and retired to rest, filled with good cheer and good humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the river,
+      leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The river was
+      sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The Digger kept on
+      ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river in pursuit of game,
+      until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he stole off with him,
+      without the ceremony of leave-taking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some
+      Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different
+      from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce
+      language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These
+      Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small
+      quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which they
+      ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was grand but
+      disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks of Immahah,
+      rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they stood: on the
+      other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the river, dashing
+      along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices, until lost in a
+      distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage landscape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious
+      eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to discover
+      some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them to give up
+      the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night. Moving briskly
+      forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of deep
+      snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers as the
+      &ldquo;Grand Rond,&rdquo; which they found entirely free from snow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and
+      five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace, or
+      Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in
+      mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when the
+      elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by the
+      snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come to it in
+      the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces immense
+      quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is tinted by
+      its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a cloud.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning scaled
+      the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route than that
+      upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much reconnoitring,
+      determined to make their way once more to the river, and to travel upon
+      the ice when the banks should prove impassable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake
+      River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice. A
+      narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of
+      bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time,
+      they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length came to
+      where the river forced its way into the heart of the mountains, winding
+      between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose perpendicularly from
+      the water&rsquo;s edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy grandeur. Here difficulties
+      of all kinds beset their path. The snow was from two to three feet deep,
+      but soft and yielding, so that the horses had no foothold, but kept
+      plunging forward, straining themselves by perpetual efforts. Sometimes the
+      crags and promontories forced them upon the narrow riband of ice that
+      bordered the shore; sometimes they had to scramble over vast masses of
+      rock which had tumbled from the impending precipices; sometimes they had
+      to cross the stream upon the hazardous bridges of ice and snow, sinking to
+      the knee at every step; sometimes they had to scale slippery acclivities,
+      and to pass along narrow cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a
+      shouldering wall of rock on one side, a yawning precipice on the other,
+      where a single false step would have been fatal. In a lower and less
+      dangerous pass, two of their horses actually fell into the river; one was
+      saved with much difficulty, but the boldness of the shore prevented their
+      rescuing the other, and he was swept away by the rapid current.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and
+      dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to a
+      mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further
+      progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to
+      cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit, found
+      their path closed by insurmountable barriers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged
+      mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it.
+      They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep;
+      and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing, to
+      aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as the poor
+      animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy declivities. Thus,
+      after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant toil, amidst the
+      wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to reach the camping
+      ground, from which they had started in the morning, and for the first time
+      in the course of their rugged and perilous expedition, felt their hearts
+      quailing under their multiplied hardships.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night&rsquo;s sleep, put
+      them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as to
+      their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked a small
+      ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was determined to
+      scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which must lie
+      beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained. To kill
+      their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of the hides, and,
+      in these, commit themselves to the stream&mdash;a measure hazardous in the
+      extreme.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep and
+      cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling it was
+      by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed a
+      succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they wrought
+      their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag course,
+      climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after them; which
+      scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then dislodging
+      some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would roll down the
+      mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It was some time
+      after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the summit of the
+      mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds, which swept this
+      naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley beneath, so that
+      the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the dry grass which
+      remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the extreme, were fain
+      to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their journey was likely to be
+      prolonged much beyond the anticipated term.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at a
+      great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the mountain.
+      It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height, running
+      parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to lofty peaks,
+      but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines. This, in fact, was
+      a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the first adventurers to
+      Astoria experienced such hardships.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this
+      tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed
+      themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had
+      they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only to
+      the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend the
+      southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow, so as to
+      render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and horses
+      continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow lay in
+      such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down which the
+      horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was impeded by
+      tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in every
+      direction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out. For
+      three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could scarcely
+      drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about to give out
+      from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him. Husbanding this
+      miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three days subsisted upon
+      the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the meat, it was packed and
+      preserved as long as they could do without it, not knowing how long they
+      might remain bewildered in these desolate regions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and
+      to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime,
+      the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the
+      scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately
+      below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling;
+      that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them
+      in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it
+      without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the
+      mountain ridge to the left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps;
+      and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of the
+      severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they
+      toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through
+      the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit,
+      where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side, they
+      were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and ravines.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost
+      ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as the
+      sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came to the
+      brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the Immahah
+      stretched out in smiling verdure below them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor, they
+      forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain,
+      dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them to
+      slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they reached
+      the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to sprout,
+      and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and repose,
+      heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which they had
+      just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian trails along the
+      margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them reason to believe
+      that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces in the neighborhood,
+      as it was within the accustomed range of that pacific and hospitable
+      tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and they
+      continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their steeds
+      would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the rest,
+      threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further. It was
+      in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and his replies
+      only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions, therefore,
+      encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched about for roots
+      with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then made a starveling
+      repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past dangers and
+      troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all were now at an
+      end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the morrow would
+      bring them into plentiful quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      31.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Progress in the valley&mdash;An Indian cavalier&mdash;The captain
+     falls into a lethargy&mdash;A Nez-Perce patriarch&mdash;Hospitable
+     treatment&mdash;The bald head&mdash;Bargaining&mdash;Value of an old plaid
+     cloak&mdash;The family horse&mdash;The cost of an Indian present
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      A TRANQUIL NIGHT&rsquo;S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down
+      traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set forward
+      on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within reach of
+      succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that they advanced
+      but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they should almost have
+      lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th of February)
+      fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst of winter,
+      exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for the last twenty
+      days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate labyrinths of the
+      snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy precipices, and nearly
+      starved with cold and hunger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without seeing
+      a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about noon,
+      they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly toward
+      them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed, came to a
+      halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great earnestness,
+      seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made signs of peace,
+      and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him to approach. He
+      remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having satisfied himself
+      that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them. He was a fine,
+      haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted on a
+      high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was evident
+      that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe. His whole
+      deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt, perhaps, his
+      temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit of his steed,
+      to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their half-starved horses.
+      Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave them his hand, and, in
+      the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp, which was only a few
+      miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and plenty of horses, and would
+      cheerfully share his good things with them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a moment,
+      to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then, wheeling
+      round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon out of
+      sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a snail&rsquo;s
+      pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after the other.
+      Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and singular change of
+      feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his party, and of providing
+      against every emergency, had kept his mind upon the stretch, and his whole
+      system braced and excited. In no one instance had he flagged in spirit, or
+      felt disposed to succumb. Now, however, that all danger was over, and the
+      march of a few miles would bring them to repose and abundance, his
+      energies suddenly deserted him; and every faculty, mental and physical,
+      was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded two miles from the point where
+      he had had the interview with the Nez Perce chief, when he threw himself
+      upon the earth, without the power or will to move a muscle, or exert a
+      thought, and sank almost instantly into a profound and dreamless sleep.
+      His companions again came to a halt, and encamped beside him, and there
+      they passed the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy
+      sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress. They
+      had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce tribe
+      came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them to their
+      camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into their
+      languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of the Nez
+      Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together, under the
+      patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He received them with
+      the hospitality of the golden age, and with something of the same kind of
+      fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them welcome, the only repast
+      he set before them consisted of roots. They could have wished for
+      something more hearty and substantial; but, for want of better, made a
+      voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast being over, the best
+      pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a most welcome luxury,
+      having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days before, among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to
+      the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to
+      revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than
+      their masters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet,
+      inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper Nez
+      Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of expression,
+      and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he was well known among
+      them, by report, at least, from the constant interchange of visits and
+      messages between the two branches of the tribe. They at first addressed
+      him by his name; giving him his title of captain, with a French accent:
+      but they soon gave him a title of their own; which, as usual with Indian
+      titles, had a peculiar signification. In the case of the captain, it had
+      somewhat of a whimsical origin.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would occasionally
+      take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation in the
+      surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their recumbent
+      posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual exclamation of
+      astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a phenomenon very
+      surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know whether he had been
+      scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity from that belligerent
+      infliction. In a little while, he became known among them by an Indian
+      name, signifying &ldquo;the bald chief.&rdquo; &ldquo;A sobriquet,&rdquo; observes the captain,
+      &ldquo;for which I can find no parallel in history since the days of &lsquo;Charles
+      the Bald.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled with
+      tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In
+      approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond
+      anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still
+      haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen
+      appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight&rsquo;s fasting, at
+      length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged
+      some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however, were
+      slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited; but were
+      ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced excellent food.
+      At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of attaining the
+      much-coveted gratification.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling
+      companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the snows
+      and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to tarnish its
+      primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the admiration, and
+      inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws, to an extravagant
+      degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville, to convert this
+      rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired. There was a
+      momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and projected
+      indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was made, he says,
+      with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and sentiment might
+      have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was cut into numerous
+      strips. &ldquo;Of these,&rdquo; continues he, &ldquo;with the newly developed talent of a
+      man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a la Turque, and fanciful
+      head-gears of divers conformations. These, judiciously distributed among
+      such of the womenkind as seemed of most consequence and interest in the
+      eyes of the patres conscripti, brought us, in a little while, abundance of
+      dried salmon and deers&rsquo; hearts; on which we made a sumptuous supper.
+      Another, and a more satisfactory smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet
+      slumbers answering the peaceful invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in
+      that delicious rest, which is only won by toil and travail.&rdquo; As to Captain
+      Bonneville, he slept in the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had
+      evidently conceived a most disinterested affection for him; as was shown
+      on the following morning. The travellers, invigorated by a good supper,
+      and &ldquo;fresh from the bath of repose,&rdquo; were about to resume their journey,
+      when this affectionate old chief took the captain aside, to let him know
+      how much he loved him. As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give
+      him a fine horse, which would go further than words, and put his good will
+      beyond all question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a
+      beautiful young horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting,
+      to the place. Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of
+      friendship; but his experience in what is proverbially called &ldquo;Indian
+      giving,&rdquo; made him aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own
+      part, to prove that his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed
+      a handsome rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent
+      heart was evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign
+      of amity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship, the
+      captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when the
+      affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to him a
+      whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have passed
+      for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;is my wife; she
+      is a good wife&mdash;I love her very much.&mdash;She loves the horse&mdash;she
+      loves him a great deal&mdash;she will cry very much at losing him.&mdash;I
+      do not know how I shall comfort her&mdash;and that makes my heart very
+      sore.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old squaw,
+      and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain lecture?
+      He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the patriarch&rsquo;s
+      better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to put personal
+      vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity extinct? The
+      moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering and whining of
+      the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed the precious
+      baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of Endor, went off
+      with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she had been a perfect
+      Semiramis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was in
+      the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward, and
+      presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky look.
+      &ldquo;This,&rdquo; said the venerable chief, &ldquo;is my son: he is very good; a great
+      horseman&mdash;he always took care of this very fine horse&mdash;he
+      brought him up from a colt, and made him what he is.&mdash;He is very fond
+      of this fine horse&mdash;he loves him like a brother&mdash;his heart will
+      be very heavy when this fine horse leaves the camp.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable
+      pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse? He
+      bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender stores.
+      No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young hopeful,
+      than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing in his
+      hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her
+      ear-bobs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the
+      affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and, while
+      he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the rifle in the
+      other. &ldquo;This rifle,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;shall be my great medicine. I will hug it
+      to my heart&mdash;I will always love it, for the sake of my good friend,
+      the bald-headed chief.&mdash;But a rifle, by itself, is dumb&mdash;I
+      cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it
+      out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the
+      meat home to my hungry family, I would say&mdash;This was killed by the
+      rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine
+      horse.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished the
+      coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs to his
+      very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to get out of
+      all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the affectionate
+      old patriarch and his insinuating family.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      32.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Nez-Perce camp&mdash;A chief with a hard name&mdash;The Big Hearts of
+     the East&mdash;Hospitable treatment&mdash;The Indian guides&mdash;
+     Mysterious councils&mdash;The loquacious chief&mdash;Indian tomb&mdash;
+     Grand Indian reception&mdash;An Indian feast&mdash;Town-criers&mdash;
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s attempt at
+     healing.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three
+      companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay
+      over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On
+      the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as
+      they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals, they
+      descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small
+      encampment of Nez Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men
+      approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to
+      encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief named
+      Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict oftener
+      than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named chieftain
+      welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same hospitality and
+      loving kindness that he had experienced from his predecessor. He told the
+      captain he had often heard of the Americans and their generous deeds, and
+      that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez Perces) had always spoken of them
+      as the Big-hearted whites of the East, the very good friends of the Nez
+      Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of this
+      magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be involved
+      in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened, therefore,
+      to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how little there
+      was to be expected from him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the Upper
+      Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their arms around
+      them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had received such
+      good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins, the Lower Nez
+      Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as friends and
+      brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded a mule with
+      presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez Perces; but,
+      unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the snowy mountains;
+      and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into Snake River, and
+      been swept away by the rapid current. That instead, therefore, of arriving
+      among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light hearts and full hands,
+      they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and instead of making them
+      presents, must depend upon them even for food. &ldquo;But,&rdquo; concluded he, &ldquo;we
+      are going to the white men&rsquo;s fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and will soon
+      return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce friends like the true Big
+      Hearts of the East.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any
+      effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings which,
+      according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce tribe, he
+      certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on learning the
+      destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he urged the
+      captain to remain with them until the following day, when he would
+      accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all his people.
+      In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for travelling
+      provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not as an article
+      of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were hungry and in
+      need of food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement. The
+      carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain
+      insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the
+      chieftain&rsquo;s family.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed their
+      journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide. Their route was
+      over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were slippery with ice
+      and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded, that they could
+      scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their foothold on the frozen
+      declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey, the old chief and the
+      guide were unremitting in their good offices, and continually on the alert
+      to select the best roads, and assist them through all difficulties.
+      Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be dependent on their Indian
+      friends for almost every thing, for they had lost their tobacco and pipes,
+      those great comforts of the trapper, and had but a few charges of powder
+      left, which it was necessary to husband for the purpose of lighting their
+      fires.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations
+      with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some
+      mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville could
+      not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual
+      sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from which
+      the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he attached a
+      little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he suffered him
+      to spin out his petty plans unmolested.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy counsellor,
+      the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the guide mounted
+      his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the chief resumed his
+      seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a pleasing but mystic
+      reverie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the
+      Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the
+      guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference was
+      held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more inflated
+      than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh trails, and
+      various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there must be a
+      considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as his worthy
+      companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as it appeared
+      to be in some way connected with his secret operations, he asked no
+      questions, but patiently awaited the development of his mystery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were bathing
+      in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a halt, and had
+      a long conversation with them, in the course of which he repeated to them
+      the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related to him. In fact, he
+      seems to have been a very sociable, communicative old man; by no means
+      afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged upon the Indians. On the
+      contrary, he was fond of long talks and long smokings, and evidently was
+      proud of his new friend, the bald-headed chief, and took a pleasure in
+      sounding his praises, and setting forth the power and glory of the Big
+      Hearts of the East.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing
+      friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward with
+      the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way,
+      however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very different
+      occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the river stood
+      an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with some emotion.
+      &ldquo;The big heart and the strong arm,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;lie buried beneath that
+      sod.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of the
+      tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war party of
+      Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy bore off
+      his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in this lonely
+      place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials characteristic of
+      their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered round the grave and
+      mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief; but the women and
+      children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations. &ldquo;For three days,&rdquo;
+       said the old man, &ldquo;we performed the solemn dances for the dead, and prayed
+      the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy in the land of brave
+      warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave fifteen of our best and
+      strongest horses, to serve him when he should arrive at the happy hunting
+      grounds; and having done all this, we returned sorrowfully to our homes.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up, and,
+      presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily out of
+      sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his
+      self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode. Turning
+      to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and informed him,
+      that behind it was a village governed by a little chief, whom he had
+      notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a party of the Big
+      Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive them in becoming
+      style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to salute them with a
+      discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of gunpowder that they might
+      return the salute in a manner correspondent to his dignity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the
+      whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the
+      most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the
+      whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank
+      were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated;
+      behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and
+      children.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of
+      firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted. The
+      chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective
+      characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each
+      filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor. Those
+      in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all had
+      given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief, according
+      to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his people advanced
+      whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence of the white men,
+      he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they would submissively
+      walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an inquiring look, he
+      would observe, &ldquo;he was a bad man,&rdquo; or something quite as concise, and
+      there was an end of the matter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable lodge
+      was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept constantly
+      supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and all their effects
+      were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were unsaddled, and turned
+      loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or
+      council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet,
+      was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that had
+      tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld not
+      merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk, and the
+      choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say how vigorously they
+      acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how unnecessary it was for
+      their hosts to practice the usual cramming principle of Indian
+      hospitality.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the same
+      curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information concerning
+      the United States, of which they knew little but what they derived through
+      their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is almost
+      exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. Captain
+      Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation, and the
+      importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was ably
+      seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name, who did
+      all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and
+      evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus set
+      forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after sentence
+      was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the
+      Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage
+      where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report
+      the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this kind,
+      viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to be
+      contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey accurate
+      information to the public mind than those circulated through the press.
+      The office of crier is generally filled by some old man, who is good for
+      little else. A village has generally several of these walking newspapers,
+      as they are termed by the whites, who go about proclaiming the news of the
+      day, giving notice of public councils, expeditions, dances, feasts, and
+      other ceremonials, and advertising anything lost. While Captain Bonneville
+      remained among the Nez Perces, if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of
+      similar value, was lost or mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the
+      lodge of the chief, and proclamation was made by one of their criers, for
+      the owner to come and claim his property.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering tribes
+      of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this tribe of
+      Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually been among
+      them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable, exorbitant in
+      their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain Bonneville, on the
+      contrary, who resided much among them, and had repeated opportunities of
+      ascertaining their real character, invariably speaks of them as kind and
+      hospitable, scrupulously honest, and remarkable, above all other Indians
+      that he had met with, for a strong feeling of religion. In fact, so
+      enthusiastic is he in their praise, that he pronounces them, all ignorant
+      and barbarous as they are by their condition, one of the purest hearted
+      people on the face of the earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among
+      the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and
+      gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been
+      long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort of
+      the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation thus
+      accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As he had
+      arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something of a
+      physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge in the
+      healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently
+      successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that
+      report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that
+      effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at
+      relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg in
+      the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic affection.
+      This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the old woman with
+      a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to relieve her, at
+      the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his return; with
+      which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he presented the
+      captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the journey: a medical
+      fee which was thankfully accepted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an owner
+      for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big Wyer.
+      The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen from him
+      some time previous, by some unknown thief. &ldquo;However,&rdquo; said the considerate
+      savage, &ldquo;you got him in fair trade&mdash;you are more in want of horses
+      than I am: keep him; he is yours&mdash;he is a good horse; use him well.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity,
+      which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain
+      Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more
+      impressed with the general excellence of their character.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      33.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Scenery of the Way-lee-way&mdash;A substitute for tobacco&mdash;
+     Sublime scenery of&mdash;Snake River&mdash;The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin&mdash;A Nez-Perce meeting&mdash;A stolen skin&mdash;The
+     scapegoat dog&mdash;Mysterious conferences&mdash;The little chief&mdash;His
+     hospitality&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s account of the United States&mdash;His
+     healing skill
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the same Nez
+      Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important in choosing the
+      routes and resting places. He also continued to be accompanied by the
+      worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed bent upon doing the honors
+      of the country, and introducing him to every branch of his tribe. The
+      Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain Bonneville and his companions
+      were now travelling, is a considerable stream winding through a succession
+      of bold and beautiful scenes. Sometimes the landscape towered into bold
+      and mountainous heights that partook of sublimity; at other times, it
+      stretched along the water side in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful
+      undulating valleys.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez
+      Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who,
+      generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures; a
+      curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies of
+      the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be spokesman
+      of the party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
+      excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his
+      stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale
+      his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his pipe
+      into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus
+      manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long
+      colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its
+      mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more
+      reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At
+      times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like
+      gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning
+      chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes the
+      river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it roared
+      along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks were piled
+      in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another place, they
+      were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with green-award. The whole
+      of this wild and varied scenery was dominated by immense mountains rearing
+      their distant peaks into the clouds. &ldquo;The grandeur and originality of the
+      views, presented on every side,&rdquo; says Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;beggar both the
+      pencil and the pen. Nothing we had ever gazed upon in any other region
+      could for a moment compare in wild majesty and impressive sternness, with
+      the series of scenes which here at every turn astonished our senses, and
+      filled us with awe and delight.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the
+      accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the
+      memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake River
+      must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery of all
+      the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky Mountains,
+      to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward of six hundred
+      miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a volcanic region,
+      amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the traces of ancient
+      fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava and sandy deserts,
+      penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken into romantic and
+      often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal snows; and at other
+      times, careers through green and smiling meadows, and wide landscapes of
+      Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity, however, appear to be
+      its prevailing characteristics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a
+      considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief
+      halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn
+      their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from a
+      group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was
+      quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a
+      light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot
+      across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and
+      frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn. The
+      old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented Captain
+      Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to say, was no
+      less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The latter evinced
+      the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers, whence they came
+      whither they were going, the object of their journey, and the adventures
+      they had experienced. All these, of course, were ample and eloquently set
+      forth by the communicative old chief. To all his grandiloquent account of
+      the bald-headed chief and his countrymen, the Big Hearts of the East, his
+      cousin listened with great attention, and replied in the customary style
+      of Indian welcome. He then desired the party to await his return, and,
+      springing into his canoe, darted across the river. In a little while he
+      returned, bringing a most welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of
+      provisions for the road, declaring his intention of accompanying the
+      party. Having no horse, he mounted behind one of the men, observing that
+      he should procure a steed for himself on the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many miles
+      beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom Captain
+      Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence among the
+      Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In this
+      neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them with a
+      profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That night they
+      put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by several
+      warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old chief and
+      his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white men. The
+      heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at thus being
+      surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with more spirit and
+      vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect harmony and
+      good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the visitors took their
+      leave and recrossed the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez
+      Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to
+      throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social and
+      harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain&rsquo;s men, who happened
+      to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of collecting
+      curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the eyes of men
+      conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among the visitors
+      from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other, examined it
+      with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great medicine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off, the
+      precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it was
+      nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been
+      purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency of
+      their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over and
+      answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call with
+      all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea of their
+      being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted nation. All were
+      at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the invaluable skin,
+      when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the water fell upon an
+      unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He was a gallows-looking
+      dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who, take them in the mass,
+      are little better than a generation of vipers. Be that as it may, he was
+      instantly accused of having devoured the skin in question. A dog accused
+      is generally a dog condemned; and a dog condemned is generally a dog
+      executed. So was it in the present instance. The unfortunate cur was
+      arraigned; his thievish looks substantiated his guilt, and he was
+      condemned by his judges from across the river to be hanged. In vain the
+      Indians of the hut, with whom he was a great favorite, interceded in his
+      behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville and his comrades petitioned that his
+      life might be spared. His judges were inexorable. He was doubly guilty:
+      first, in having robbed their good friends, the Big Hearts of the East;
+      secondly, in having brought a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe.
+      He was, accordingly, swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death
+      more certain. The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post
+      mortem examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his
+      delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a shadow
+      of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all present,
+      during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the intestines
+      rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned, not a
+      particle of the skin was to be found&mdash;the dog had been unjustly
+      executed!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from
+      across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them to
+      the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the
+      utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their
+      lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin in a
+      dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was
+      entirely out of the question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the
+      captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits of
+      the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time completely
+      dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just occurred. He
+      rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give way to a burst
+      of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head and a toss of the
+      hand toward the opposite shore&mdash;&ldquo;bad men, very bad men across the
+      river&rdquo;; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy cousin,
+      Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of acquiescence,
+      equivalent to an amen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and he
+      fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin, which
+      ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to his horse,
+      dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were drawing near
+      to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by an appellation
+      of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as the great chief.
+      The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their approach; a herald
+      appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to enable them to respond to
+      the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their approach to the village,
+      similar to that which had occurred at the village of the little chief. The
+      whole population appeared in the field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with
+      the customary regard to rank and dignity. Then came on the firing of
+      salutes, and the shaking of hands, in which last ceremonial every
+      individual, man, woman, and child, participated; for the Indians have an
+      idea that it is as indispensable an overture of friendship among the
+      whites as smoking of the pipe is among the red men. The travellers were
+      next ushered to the banquet, where all the choicest viands that the
+      village could furnish, were served up in rich profusion. They were
+      afterwards entertained by feats of agility and horseraces; indeed, their
+      visit to the village seemed the signal for complete festivity. In the
+      meantime, a skin lodge had been spread for their accommodation, their
+      horses and baggage were taken care of, and wood and water supplied in
+      abundance. At night, therefore, they retired to their quarters, to enjoy,
+      as they supposed, the repose of which they stood in need. No such thing,
+      however, was in store for them. A crowd of visitors awaited their
+      appearance, all eager for a smoke and a talk. The pipe was immediately
+      lighted, and constantly replenished and kept alive until the night was far
+      advanced. As usual, the utmost eagerness was evinced by the guests to
+      learn everything within the scope of their comprehension respecting the
+      Americans, for whom they professed the most fraternal regard. The captain,
+      in his replies, made use of familiar illustrations, calculated to strike
+      their minds, and impress them with such an idea of the might of his
+      nation, as would induce them to treat with kindness and respect all
+      stragglers that might fall in their path. To their inquiries as to the
+      numbers of the people of the United States, he assured them that they were
+      as countless as the blades of grass in the prairies, and that, great as
+      Snake River was, if they were all encamped upon its banks, they would
+      drink it dry in a single day. To these and similar statistics, they
+      listened with profound attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was,
+      indeed, a striking scene: the captain, with his hunter&rsquo;s dress and bald
+      head in the midst, holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like
+      so many statues, the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular
+      figures, all fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a
+      question propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a
+      movement of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and
+      delight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to
+      this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to
+      exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with
+      pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation. The
+      captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain. Her
+      father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and assured
+      the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the Americans
+      near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement. His kind
+      heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl, and his
+      sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about sixteen
+      years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature. The only
+      difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her malady, and
+      that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After considering
+      and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when in a maze of
+      vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his directions, the
+      girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used by the Nez Perces,
+      where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave her a dose of
+      gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to be wrapped in
+      buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and blankets. The
+      remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain, though
+      extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a bowl of
+      colt&rsquo;s head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on simple diet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the
+      recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a long
+      time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the
+      captain&rsquo;s horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that the
+      steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses, which he
+      presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad to see his
+      friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce to accompany
+      his guest to the next village, and &ldquo;to carry his talk&rdquo; concerning them;
+      and the two parties separated with mutual expressions of good will.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among the
+      Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as they
+      call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by water
+      poured slowly upon red-hot stones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut&rsquo;s domains, the travellers left the
+      elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which has just
+      been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country, of such
+      fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the captain&rsquo;s
+      followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared that it
+      surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed what a
+      delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and teeming
+      soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a chief
+      named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and
+      hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued a
+      west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better
+      wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their
+      progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were
+      invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after
+      leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at
+      Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      34.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Fort Wallah-Wallah&mdash;Its commander&mdash;Indians in its
+     neighborhood&mdash;Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement&mdash;Religion&mdash;Code of laws&mdash;Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces&mdash;Camash, and other roots&mdash;Nez&mdash;Perce horses&mdash;
+     Preparations for departure&mdash;Refusal of supplies&mdash;Departure&mdash;
+     A laggard and glutton
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, situated
+      just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the left bank
+      of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated merely for
+      defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or eight men;
+      and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune, an agent of
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its trade
+      on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of the
+      Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth of the
+      Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment from
+      Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from
+      Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of the
+      British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they have
+      always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders
+      themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as well as
+      by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and peltries
+      collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are a
+      degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and
+      tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed
+      Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the
+      Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had
+      evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their
+      peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however, the
+      principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The same
+      gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed with
+      scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to a great
+      extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the Christian
+      faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft, so venial a crime
+      among the Indians, had recently been punished with hanging, by sentence of
+      a chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and
+      religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one of
+      the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an
+      intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty
+      years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained of
+      their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities. The
+      very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the prolonged
+      sojourns of Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and
+      other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver, elk,
+      deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these animals,
+      they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be well worth
+      transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among these is the
+      camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion, and said to be
+      really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root, about the size of a
+      walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour; together with the
+      jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by steaming them in the
+      ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they
+      catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are
+      their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed of
+      comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally clad in
+      deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all, they are
+      celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark, and then
+      suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These horses are
+      principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and long-winded. They
+      are brought in great numbers to the establishments of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, and sold for a mere trifle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who, if
+      not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the
+      gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They
+      invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post might
+      be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would trade
+      with Americans, in preference to any other people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this neighborhood,
+      to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect information, and
+      establish connections that might be advantageous in the way of trade. The
+      delays, however, which he had experienced on his journey, obliged him to
+      shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as possible, so as to reach
+      the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed time. He had seen enough
+      to convince him that an American trade might be carried on with advantage
+      in this quarter; and he determined soon to return with a stronger party,
+      more completely fitted for the purpose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to
+      purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference between being
+      treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy superintendent, who
+      had extended to him all the genial rites of hospitality, now suddenly
+      assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and observed that, however he
+      might feel disposed to serve him, personally, he felt bound by his duty to
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, to do nothing which should facilitate or
+      encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of
+      the country. He endeavored to dissuade Captain Bonneville from returning
+      through the Blue Mountains; assuring him it would be extremely difficult
+      and dangerous, if not impracticable, at this season of the year; and
+      advised him to accompany Mr. Payette, a leader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, who was about to depart with a number of men, by a more
+      circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies to the company&rsquo;s agent,
+      resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain Bonneville, however, piqued
+      at his having refused to furnish him with supplies, and doubting the
+      sincerity of his advice, determined to return by the more direct route
+      through the mountains; though varying his course, in some respects, from
+      that by which he had come, in consequence of information gathered among
+      the neighboring Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions, accompanied
+      by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the early part of
+      their course, they touched again at several of the Nez Perce villages,
+      where they had experienced such kind treatment on their way down. They
+      were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was done to cheer
+      them on their journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce, whose
+      society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and good will
+      they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the little
+      party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a huge feeder.
+      His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all labor, and
+      availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march, he always
+      lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking a way through
+      all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily jogging along
+      the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the evening
+      encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for the
+      horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the
+      wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing
+      away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of
+      gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He no
+      longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but
+      distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor and
+      duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his competitors&mdash;albeit,
+      experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never had they witnessed such
+      power of mastication, and such marvellous capacity of stomach, as in this
+      native and uncultivated gastronome. Having, by repeated and prolonged
+      assaults, at length completely gorged himself, he would wrap himself up
+      and lie with the torpor of an anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the
+      next repast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of surprise
+      and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too serious for a
+      joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he was regarded
+      askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to waste the
+      substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations they were
+      under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest; but he
+      proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these obligations,
+      by eating a receipt in full.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      35.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The uninvited guest&mdash;Free and easy manners&mdash;Salutary jokes&mdash;
+     A prodigal son&mdash;Exit of the glutton&mdash;A sudden change in
+     fortune&mdash;Danger of a visit to poor relations&mdash;Plucking of a
+     prosperous man&mdash;A vagabond toilet&mdash;A substitute for the very
+     fine horse&mdash;Hard travelling&mdash;The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt&mdash;A beggar on horseback&mdash;A catastrophe&mdash;Exit
+     of the merry vagabond
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the
+      hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty
+      supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest.
+      He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows, and
+      had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing with
+      an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the ground,
+      and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their mess,
+      helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left in the
+      liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran dinner
+      hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more knowingly. The
+      travellers were at first completely taken by surprise, and could not but
+      admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite made himself at
+      home among them. While they stared he went on, making the most of the good
+      cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted; and was soon elbow deep
+      in &ldquo;pot luck,&rdquo; and greased from the tip of his nose to the back of his
+      ears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed
+      at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his
+      tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish for
+      such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the
+      &ldquo;provant&rdquo; upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited him
+      to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on
+      eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole
+      countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his repast,
+      his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who, as usual,
+      was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the eye showed
+      either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his characteristics.
+      He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries; and cracked off two
+      or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt to prick up his ears,
+      and delighted all the company. From this time, the uninvited guest was
+      taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished; his careless, free and
+      easy air, to be considered singularly amusing; and in the end, he was
+      pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest companions and most
+      entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was the
+      simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention of
+      keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no objection;
+      and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the carcass of the
+      buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this time, he had so
+      completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by his first
+      appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the Nez Perce guide
+      undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next morning, at break of
+      day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the hills, nor was anything more
+      seen of him until a few minutes after the party had encamped for the
+      evening, when he again made his appearance, in his usual frank, careless
+      manner, and threw down the carcass of another noble deer, which he had
+      borne on his back for a considerable distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative
+      disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of his
+      history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village; living
+      a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and imperative
+      commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled from the
+      village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had betaken
+      himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a careless,
+      haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors; heedless of
+      the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present; and fearing no
+      lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the chase, and a fair
+      hunting ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his
+      eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville fitted
+      him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon became quite
+      attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal services he
+      performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that hitherto oppressed
+      the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had seemed so perfectly
+      insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by which the travellers had
+      endeavored to elbow him out of their society, could not withstand the
+      good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp wit of She-wee-she. He
+      evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat blinking like an owl in
+      daylight, when pestered by the flouts and peckings of mischievous birds.
+      At length his place was found vacant at meal-time; no one knew when he
+      went off, or whither he had gone, but he was seen no more, and the vast
+      surplus that remained when the repast was over, showed what a mighty
+      gormandizer had departed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily.
+      She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always
+      successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or on
+      the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of his
+      countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in good-humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the
+      Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she took
+      a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of worldly
+      prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly departed
+      in the morning, arrayed in hunter&rsquo;s style, and well appointed with
+      everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the
+      elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that
+      he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about to
+      give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what a
+      change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in the
+      evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail
+      between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was
+      born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a
+      fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed it
+      to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they
+      recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom they
+      had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather, they
+      could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and repeated
+      peals of laughter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined in
+      the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his reverse
+      of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however, thought proper
+      to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree of sternness, the
+      cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most natural and
+      self-complacent style imaginable, &ldquo;that he had been among his cousins, who
+      were very poor; they had been delighted to see him; still more delighted
+      with his good fortune; they had taken him to their arms; admired his
+      equipments; one had begged for this; another for that&rdquo;&mdash;in fine, what
+      with the poor devil&rsquo;s inherent heedlessness, and the real generosity of
+      his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded in stripping him of all
+      his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig leaf with which he had
+      returned to camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville
+      determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a salutary
+      lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in the
+      neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift for
+      himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give him
+      any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of his
+      lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin;
+      whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, so
+      that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South
+      American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together,
+      under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before
+      the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he
+      thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village of
+      Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who had
+      made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse. The old
+      man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual cordiality, and
+      his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing grateful recollections
+      of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus of friendly gratulation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting
+      family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate to
+      the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored him to
+      the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the invaluable
+      gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied with a fine
+      two years&rsquo; old colt in his stead, a substitution which he afterward
+      learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might have claimed as
+      a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims were made on
+      account of this colt. This donation may be regarded, therefore, as a
+      signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found that the animal
+      soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with
+      some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about to
+      traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in gloomy
+      forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth in the
+      passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as he proceeded.
+      He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very slowly, so as to
+      keep the horses in strength and spirit for the hard times they would have
+      to encounter. The captain surrendered the regulation of the march entirely
+      to his discretion, and pushed on in the advance, amusing himself with
+      hunting, so as generally to kill a deer or two in the course of the day,
+      and arriving, before the rest of the party, at the spot designated by the
+      guide for the evening&rsquo;s encampment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide,
+      accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn
+      by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of the
+      mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper
+      beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they
+      quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high
+      good-humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch&rsquo;s. The
+      second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the
+      rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part
+      of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard
+      exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery, the
+      patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to follow on
+      at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he was on his
+      back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The colt, unused to
+      such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing and rearing and
+      snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length, set off full speed over
+      the most dangerous ground. As the route led generally along the steep and
+      craggy sides of the hills, both horse and horseman were constantly in
+      danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth escape from deadly peril.
+      Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap savage. He stuck to the colt
+      like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down gullies; whooping and yelling with
+      the wildest glee. Never did beggar on horseback display more headlong
+      horsemanship. His companions followed him with their eyes, sometimes
+      laughing, sometimes holding in their breath at his vagaries, until they
+      saw the colt make a sudden plunge or start, and pitch his unlucky rider
+      headlong over a precipice. There was a general cry of horror, and all
+      hastened to the spot. They found the poor fellow lying among the rocks
+      below, sadly bruised and mangled. It was almost a miracle that he had
+      escaped with life. Even in this condition, his merry spirit was not
+      entirely quelled, and he summoned up a feeble laugh at the alarm and
+      anxiety of those who came to his relief. He was extricated from his rocky
+      bed, and a messenger dispatched to inform Captain Bonneville of the
+      accident. The latter returned with all speed, and encamped the party at
+      the first convenient spot. Here the wounded man was stretched upon buffalo
+      skins, and the captain, who officiated on all occasions as doctor and
+      surgeon to the party, proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one
+      was a long and deep gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling
+      for a needle and thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound,
+      admonishing the patient to submit to the operation with becoming
+      fortitude. His gayety was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a
+      forced smile; and, at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so
+      piteously, that the captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a
+      powerful dose of alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed
+      his heart; all the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes
+      riveted on the wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the
+      countenance, that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic
+      curl.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and
+      administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in
+      for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless
+      and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would be
+      so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the party;
+      nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion
+      favorable to his wishes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding
+      that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting to
+      use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several efforts
+      to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue forward; but at
+      length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that &ldquo;as he had but one
+      leg,&rdquo; it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the mountain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such
+      disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each one
+      making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse, which
+      Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting expressions of
+      good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old haunts;
+      doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy cousins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      36.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The difficult mountain&mdash;A smoke and consultation&mdash;The
+     captain&rsquo;s speech&mdash;An icy turnpike&mdash;Danger of a false step&mdash;
+     Arrival on Snake River&mdash;Return to&mdash;Portneuf&mdash;Meeting of
+     comrades
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers
+      found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in quantity,
+      so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged, therefore, to beat
+      down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling on the icy surface of
+      the stream. At length they reached the place where they intended to scale
+      the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to the foot, were agreeably
+      surprised to find that the wind had drifted the snow from off the side, so
+      that they attained the summit with but little difficulty. Here they
+      encamped, with the intention of beating a track through the mountains. A
+      short experiment, however, obliged them to give up the attempt, the snow
+      lying in vast drifts, often higher than the horses&rsquo; heads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to
+      reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the
+      rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about nine
+      miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed impracticable.
+      He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides, proceeded to
+      hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while they all
+      smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject matter before
+      them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in which the two
+      guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly cross the snows.
+      They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed on foot, and they
+      should take the horses back to the village, where they would be well taken
+      care of until Captain Bonneville should send for them. They urged this
+      advice with great earnestness; declaring that their chief would be
+      extremely angry, and treat them severely, should any of the horses of his
+      good friends, the white men, be lost, in crossing under their guidance;
+      and that, therefore, it was good they should not attempt it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with Indian
+      silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them in their
+      own style of language.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;My friends,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;I have seen the pass, and have listened to your
+      words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your way,
+      you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great
+      obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell, and
+      they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for the
+      present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he found
+      the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been surveying the
+      neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was at least a
+      hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused fresh spirit
+      in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to proceed. About
+      dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now suggested itself.
+      This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on them, and drag them
+      to the other side of the mountain, thus forming a road in the wet snow,
+      which, should it afterward freeze, would be sufficiently hard to bear the
+      horses. This plan was promptly put into execution; the sleds were
+      constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn backward and forward until the
+      road was beaten, when they desisted from their fatiguing labor. The night
+      turned out clear and cold, and by morning, their road was incrusted with
+      ice sufficiently strong for their purpose. They now set out on their icy
+      turnpike, and got on well enough, excepting that now and then a horse
+      would sidle out of the track, and immediately sink up to the neck. Then
+      came on toil and difficulty, and they would be obliged to haul up the
+      floundering animal with ropes. One, more unlucky than the rest, after
+      repeated falls, had to be abandoned in the snow. Notwithstanding these
+      repeated delays, they succeeded, before the sun had acquired sufficient
+      power to thaw the snow, in getting all the rest of their horses safely to
+      the other side of the mountain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They had
+      now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with ice. It
+      was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun should melt
+      the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in the yielding snow.
+      They had a frightful warning of the danger of any movement while the sleet
+      remained. A wild young mare, in her restlessness, strayed to the edge of a
+      declivity. One slip was fatal to her; she lost her balance, careered with
+      headlong velocity down the slippery side of the mountain for more than two
+      thousand feet, and was dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers
+      afterward sought the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and
+      mangled in the most horrible manner.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the
+      ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them to
+      prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day they
+      succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then packing
+      all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more set out briskly
+      and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day succeeded in
+      getting to a grassy region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the
+      mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and
+      needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return home.
+      This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their faithful
+      services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white friends, after
+      which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging many farewells and
+      kind wishes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the
+      mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found the
+      grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this neighborhood,
+      he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids of basaltes,
+      rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the
+      party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams.
+      After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people
+      were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions to
+      discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join them.
+      He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract of
+      country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he now
+      shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small hordes
+      of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon trout and
+      other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season in
+      fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated the
+      mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in the
+      vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company on the
+      preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the beginning
+      of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two months beyond
+      the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this have been broken
+      up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched scouts a few miles
+      above, to visit the old camping ground and search for signals of the
+      party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually have abandoned the
+      spot. They returned without being able to ascertain anything.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary to
+      make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches, therefore,
+      on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their baggage, and
+      then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as to kill a
+      couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined to husband
+      this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest they should
+      again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous hunting grounds.
+      Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they found that the wolves
+      had been at the caches, scratched up the contents, and scattered them in
+      every direction. They now constructed a more secure one, in which they
+      deposited their heaviest articles, and then descended Snake River again,
+      and encamped just above the American Falls. Here they proceeded to fortify
+      themselves, intending to remain here, and give their horses an opportunity
+      to recruit their strength with good pasturage, until it should be time to
+      set out for the annual rendezvous in Bear River valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the
+      river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by a
+      discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of their
+      own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the whole party
+      which he had left in the preceding month of December were encamped on
+      Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far above the
+      Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch, and in a little
+      while had the pleasure of finding himself once more surrounded by his
+      people, who greeted his return among them in the heartiest manner; for his
+      long-protracted absence had convinced them that he and his three
+      companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by
+      famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches at
+      Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and considered
+      themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the dangerous
+      neighborhood without sustaining any loss.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his men
+      was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such
+      feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was
+      wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in
+      particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia
+      was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game flavor
+      of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      37.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure for the rendezvous&mdash;A war party of Blackfeet&mdash;A
+     mock bustle&mdash;Sham fires at night&mdash;Warlike precautions&mdash;
+     Dangers of a night attack&mdash;A panic among horses&mdash;Cautious
+     march&mdash;The Beer Springs&mdash;A mock carousel&mdash;Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes&mdash;A buffalo bait&mdash;Arrival at the rendezvous&mdash;
+     Meeting of various bands
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke up the
+      encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free trappers,
+      half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in Bear River
+      valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon reached the
+      hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the march, he descried
+      from the brow of a hill, a war party of about sixty Blackfeet, on the
+      plain immediately below him. His situation was perilous; for the greater
+      part of his people were dispersed in various directions. Still, to betray
+      hesitation or fear would be to discover his actual weakness, and to invite
+      attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore, a belligerent tone; ordered the
+      squaws to lead the horses to a small grove of ashen trees, and unload and
+      tie them; and caused a great bustle to be made by his scanty handful; the
+      leaders riding hither and thither, and vociferating with all their might,
+      as if a numerous force was getting under way for an attack.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number
+      of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His
+      men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In
+      such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle
+      beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in case
+      of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at once, and
+      start up, completely armed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses, and
+      set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and
+      principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage
+      is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens
+      another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps
+      where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night alarm
+      of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have broken
+      loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain fast; the
+      howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of white men, and
+      red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and trampling of
+      fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up forms of men
+      and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make up one of the
+      wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way, sometimes, all the
+      horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be frightened off in a
+      single night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no likelihood
+      that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp where there was
+      a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The captain, therefore,
+      continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions; throwing out scouts
+      in the advance, and on every rising ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already
+      mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by the
+      trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments every
+      spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand,
+      indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying jokes,
+      singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it seemed as
+      if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and cheated them
+      into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of the moment, they
+      were loud and extravagant in their commendations of &ldquo;the mountain tap&rdquo;;
+      elevating it above every beverage produced from hops or malt. It was a
+      singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region where everything is
+      strange and peculiar:&mdash;These groups of trappers, and hunters, and
+      Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances; their
+      boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry round
+      these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons, ready to
+      be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of representing
+      banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here were groups,
+      still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden onset of
+      Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to a furious
+      melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper&rsquo;s life complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance;
+      and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache
+      behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River;
+      amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which the
+      country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his repose
+      in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon him; then
+      rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot at him as he
+      started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal springs upon his
+      legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular process by which it is
+      effected. The horse rises first upon his fore legs; and the domestic cow,
+      upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo bounds at once from a couchant to
+      an erect position, with a celerity that baffles the eye. Though from his
+      bulk, and rolling gait, he does not appear to run with much swiftness;
+      yet, it takes a stanch horse to overtake him, when at full speed on level
+      ground; and a buffalo cow is still fleeter in her motion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable
+      horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind of
+      buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they prepared
+      for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on horseback, they
+      would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession, goading him to
+      make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the horse, they would
+      easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him, feathering him with
+      arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was bristled all over
+      like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs of exhaustion, and he
+      could no longer be provoked to make battle, they would dismount from their
+      horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing him by the tail, jerk him
+      from side to side, and drag him backward; until the frantic animal,
+      gathering fresh strength from fury, would break from them, and rush, with
+      flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing, upon any enemy in sight; but in a
+      little while, his transient excitement at an end, would pitch headlong on
+      the ground, and expire. The arrows were then plucked forth, the tongue cut
+      out and preserved as a dainty, and the carcass left a banquet for the
+      wolves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the 13th
+      of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or five
+      days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he found
+      extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that he was
+      obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore them. The
+      mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the west, are
+      marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is a beautiful
+      beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs, which advance
+      upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery. The water is
+      very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on
+      his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher
+      up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to
+      circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the
+      nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days; and
+      were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades, from whom
+      they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain Bonneville
+      was about the result of their journey, and the information they had
+      procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense curiosity
+      and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in the following
+      chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      38.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Plan of the Salt Lake expedition&mdash;Great sandy deserts&mdash;
+     Sufferings from thirst&mdash;Ogden&rsquo;s&mdash;River&mdash;Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages&mdash;Thefts at night&mdash;A trapper&rsquo;s revenge&mdash;
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience&mdash;A murderous victory&mdash;
+     Californian mountains&mdash;Plains along the&mdash;Pacific&mdash;Arrival
+     at&mdash;Monterey&mdash;Account of the place and neighborhood&mdash;Lower&mdash;
+     California&mdash;Its extent&mdash;The Peninsula&mdash;Soil&mdash;Climate&mdash;
+     Production&mdash;Its settlements by the Jesuits&mdash;Their sway over
+     the Indians&mdash;Their expulsion&mdash;Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment&mdash;Sublime scenery&mdash;Upper California Missions&mdash;
+     Their power and policy&mdash;Resources of the country&mdash;Designs of
+     foreign nations
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the brigade
+      of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the Great Salt
+      Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping on all the
+      streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals and make
+      charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the surrounding
+      country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been tasked to fit
+      out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the southwest of the
+      mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet almost unknown;
+      being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed by the trapper, who
+      preferred those parts of the wilderness where the roaming herds of that
+      species of animal gave him comparatively an abundant and luxurious life.
+      Still it was said the deer, the elk, and the bighorn were to be found
+      there, so that, with a little diligence and economy, there was no danger
+      of lacking food. As a precaution, however, the party halted on Bear River
+      and hunted for a few days, until they had laid in a supply of dried
+      buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by the head waters of the
+      Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched on an immense sandy
+      desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the Great Salt Lake,
+      spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running into it. A desert
+      extended around them, and stretched to the southwest, as far as the eye
+      could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa in sterility. There
+      was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, nor running stream,
+      nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and rider were in danger
+      of perishing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned their
+      intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains, brightening
+      in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time, they came upon
+      a small stream leading directly towards these mountains. Having quenched
+      their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their weary horses for
+      a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually increased in size,
+      being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the mountains, it took a
+      sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers still kept along it,
+      trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which they subsisted for the
+      present, husbanding their dried meat for future necessities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River,
+      but is more generally known as Ogden&rsquo;s River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an
+      enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who first
+      explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the travellers
+      were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers,
+      the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy people, prone to
+      keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently met with their
+      trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in various parts of the
+      vast landscape, so that they knew there were great numbers in the
+      neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be met with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the Shoshokoes
+      were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was dogged by these
+      eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles were missing, yet
+      nothing could be seen of the marauders. What particularly exasperated the
+      hunters, was to have their traps stolen from the streams. One morning, a
+      trapper of a violent and savage character, discovering that his traps had
+      been carried off in the night, took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian
+      he should meet, innocent or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades
+      to camp, he beheld two unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank,
+      fishing. Advancing upon them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the
+      spot, and flung his bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled
+      and was suffered to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of
+      violence are regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed
+      ruffian enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment
+      this desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The
+      trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on
+      westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range of
+      mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain, on
+      the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising, as
+      before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now
+      converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the
+      scattered bands for vengeance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes in
+      considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however, suspected
+      them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd into and
+      get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and daring
+      conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads of the
+      poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive race,
+      unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons, excepting
+      for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains and along
+      the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other times on
+      roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat&rsquo;s-tail. They are of the
+      same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake River, and
+      whom he found so mild and inoffensive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making
+      their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round
+      their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise
+      them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying into
+      Ogden&rsquo;s River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number of
+      Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were there
+      with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their rifles, and
+      killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to a short
+      distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like wolves,
+      and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them in every
+      direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with terror;
+      neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors, that a
+      weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians throughout the
+      affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages had no hostile
+      intention, but had merely gathered together through motives of curiosity,
+      as others of their tribe had done when Captain Bonneville and his
+      companions passed along Snake River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trappers continued down Ogden&rsquo;s River, until they ascertained that it
+      lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent
+      discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of
+      California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the
+      shores of the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains, the
+      peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual snow.
+      Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking of the
+      sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful
+      precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage mountains
+      were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved; at length,
+      they made their way through them, and came down upon the plains of New
+      California, a fertile region extending along the coast, with magnificent
+      forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked like stately parks.
+      Here they found deer and other game in abundance, and indemnified
+      themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the south, and passing
+      numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various streams, arrived at
+      the Spanish village and post of Monterey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in
+      latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage. The
+      surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys; the
+      soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and the
+      climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California,
+      extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30&rsquo; to 42 north, is
+      represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North
+      America.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great
+      peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone. It
+      is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes called
+      the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the West, the
+      Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called. The
+      peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many sandy
+      plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical cactus
+      growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water, however,
+      and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens everything
+      into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with the rich and
+      beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane and indigo
+      plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of North America.
+      There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the orange, the citron, the
+      pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the voluptuous climates of the
+      south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a generous wine. In the
+      interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty veins of gold are said,
+      likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful water are to be fished upon
+      the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who,
+      certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved the
+      most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained and
+      maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military force, but
+      solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty, and entered into the
+      most amicable relations with the natives, then numbering from twenty-five
+      to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold upon their affections, and a
+      control over their minds, that effected a complete change in their
+      condition. They built eleven missionary establishments in the various
+      valleys of the peninsula, which formed rallying places for the surrounding
+      savages, where they gathered together as sheep into the fold, and
+      surrendered themselves and their consciences into the hands of these
+      spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are told, could exceed the implicit and
+      affectionate devotion of the Indian converts to the Jesuit fathers, and
+      the Catholic faith was disseminated widely through the wilderness. The
+      growing power and influence of the Jesuits in the New World at length
+      excited the jealousy of the Spanish government, and they were banished
+      from the colonies. The governor, who arrived at California to expel them,
+      and to take charge of the country, expected to find a rich and powerful
+      fraternity, with immense treasures hoarded in their missions, and an army
+      of Indians ready to defend them. On the contrary, he beheld a few
+      venerable silver-haired priests coming humbly forward to meet him,
+      followed by a throng of weeping, but submissive natives. The heart of the
+      governor, it is said, was so touched by this unexpected sight, that he
+      shed tears; but he had to execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied
+      to the place of their embarkation by their simple and affectionate
+      parishioners, who took leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the
+      latter abandoned their hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their
+      southern brethren, so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The
+      Franciscans immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the
+      Dominicans; but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the
+      missionary establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are
+      all in ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power
+      and prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the
+      chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley, about
+      half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the peninsula
+      being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn stone, one story
+      high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about fifty-five feet deep.
+      The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet high, with a vaulted roof
+      of stone, about two feet and a half in thickness. It is now abandoned and
+      desolate; the beautiful valley is without an inhabitant&mdash;not a human
+      being resides within thirty miles of the place!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller
+      passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak in
+      the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent prospect
+      unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark blue sea
+      beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the immense lava
+      plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an Italian effect
+      to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, and the sunsets
+      are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a slight and imperfect
+      sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upper California extends from latitude 31 10&rsquo; to 42 on the Pacific, and
+      inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from
+      the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in
+      this province, most of which were established about fifty years since, and
+      are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting
+      sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who reside on the
+      lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has fifteen miles
+      square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots, proportioned to
+      the number of Indian converts attached to the mission. Some are enclosed
+      with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets, composed of rows of
+      huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances whitewashed and roofed
+      with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior, beyond the reach of all
+      military protection, and dependent entirely on the good will of the
+      natives, which never fails them. They have made considerable progress in
+      teaching the Indians the useful arts. There are native tanners,
+      shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters, and other artificers
+      attached to each establishment. Others are taught husbandry, and the
+      rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card and spin wool, weave,
+      and perform the other duties allotted to their sex in civilized life. No
+      social intercourse is allowed between the unmarried of the opposite sexes
+      after working hours; and at night they are locked up in separate
+      apartments, and the keys delivered to the priests.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are
+      entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for the
+      support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under their
+      control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the missions,
+      and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might be produced to
+      an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there a sufficient market
+      for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the missions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former may
+      be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an inferior
+      breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable qualities,
+      cost from seven to ten dollars.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San
+      Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of
+      Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port of
+      San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place. The
+      entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole
+      navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take their
+      rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run through
+      a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves into the
+      harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for ship-building. In
+      a word, this favored port combines advantages which not only fit it for a
+      grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of being made the dominant
+      military post of these seas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value
+      of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The
+      Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already
+      encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the
+      port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys have
+      likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we have
+      little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and, until
+      recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources of
+      wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its
+      inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches; they
+      have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast interior
+      that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and industry
+      to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor to prosecute
+      that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a country into
+      profitable action.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      39.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Gay life at Monterey&mdash;Mexican horsemen&mdash;A bold dragoon&mdash;Use
+     of the lasso&mdash;Vaqueros&mdash;Noosing a bear&mdash;Fight between a bull
+     and a bear&mdash;Departure from Monterey&mdash;Indian horse stealers&mdash;
+     Outrages committed by the travellers&mdash;Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the
+      inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered
+      extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When
+      they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests
+      at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be
+      their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted to
+      kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze the
+      country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners. They
+      attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of their
+      expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not belong to
+      them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool&rsquo;s paradise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the
+      Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this
+      country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of
+      California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are
+      fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild
+      horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of
+      the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the
+      equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero of
+      Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed in a
+      round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches,
+      unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer
+      skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel of
+      his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round the
+      lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries a
+      bull&rsquo;s hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before and
+      behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish fashion,
+      and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle at his
+      heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself the glory
+      of California, and the terror of the universe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that is
+      to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are
+      expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to
+      Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come,
+      originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral people
+      of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the army of Xerxes.
+      By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of purposes; and among
+      others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting, they cast the noose around
+      a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The vaqueros, or Indian cattle
+      drivers, have also learned the use of the laso from the Spaniards; and
+      employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by throwing it round their horns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite,
+      though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull. For
+      this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood, frequented
+      by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide themselves in the
+      vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As soon as one, fit
+      for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out, and with the laso,
+      dexterously noose him by either leg. After dragging him at full speed
+      until he is fatigued, they secure him more effectually; and tying him on
+      the carcass of the bullock, draw him in triumph to the scene of action. By
+      this time, he is exasperated to such frenzy, that they are sometimes
+      obliged to throw cold water on him, to moderate his fury; and dangerous
+      would it be, for horse and rider, were he, while in this paroxysm, to
+      break his bonds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated
+      in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose in
+      the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly; and
+      always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is, by his
+      previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring of the
+      bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to this most
+      sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony. In his heat and
+      fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly clutched by the
+      bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge antagonist; and then
+      dispatches him without difficulty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with
+      bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being
+      considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying,
+      but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party set
+      out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing their
+      steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern extremity,
+      and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the sandy plains
+      south of Ogden&rsquo;s River; in traversing which, they again suffered,
+      grievously, for want of water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in
+      pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages of
+      this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and armed only
+      with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the Spaniards not
+      to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult, with their blunt
+      shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they occasionally supply
+      themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish horses. Driving them
+      stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they slaughter them without
+      difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions. Some they carry off to
+      trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the Spanish horses pass from
+      hand to hand among the Indians, until they even find their way across the
+      Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders;
+      but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and
+      wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers, and
+      proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey
+      through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to
+      have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest
+      outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the light
+      of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them with the
+      sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for the
+      infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they were
+      guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them
+      without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their
+      unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with their
+      lasos, and then dragging them to death!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at least,
+      such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect; for he
+      was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so indignant at the
+      atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust and horror, from
+      the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch law of the wilderness,
+      and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their own lasos, it would but have
+      been a well-merited and salutary act of retributive justice. The failure
+      of this expedition was a blow to his pride, and a still greater blow to
+      his purse. The Great Salt Lake still remained unexplored; at the same
+      time, the means which had been furnished so liberally to fit out this
+      favorite expedition, had all been squandered at Monterey; and the
+      peltries, also, which had been collected on the way. He would have but
+      scanty returns, therefore, to make this year, to his associates in the
+      United States; and there was great danger of their becoming disheartened,
+      and abandoning the enterprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0041" id="link2H_4_0041">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      40.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Traveller&rsquo;s tales&mdash;Indian lurkers&mdash;Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents&mdash;The medicine wolf&mdash;An alarm&mdash;An ambush
+     The captured provant&mdash;Triumph of Buckeye&mdash;Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse&mdash;Arrangements for the year&mdash;Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses of
+      the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on the
+      contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the camp.
+      The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among the
+      hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and bull-fights
+      especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had another
+      expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would have been to
+      restrain a general eagerness to volunteer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by
+      various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was
+      evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march, had
+      dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep his
+      camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline among
+      trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of the
+      hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up
+      caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs
+      and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white
+      comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans, or
+      medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the howling or
+      barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven by the larger
+      wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by the hunters,
+      follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp. Here the smell of
+      the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze, keeps them hovering
+      about the neighborhood; scenting every blast, turning up their noses like
+      hungry hounds, and testifying their pinching hunger by long whining howls
+      and impatient barkings. These are interpreted by the superstitious Indians
+      into warnings that strangers are at hand; and one accidental coincidence,
+      like the chance fulfillment of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to
+      cover a thousand failures. This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is,
+      therefore, called among Indians the &ldquo;medicine wolf;&rdquo; and such was one of
+      Buckeye&rsquo;s infallible oracles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy
+      countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from
+      mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not
+      appear. &ldquo;Danger,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;was lurking in their path, and there would be
+      some fighting before sunset.&rdquo; He was bantered for his prophecy, which was
+      attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by bad
+      dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in pursuit
+      of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat they should
+      procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came clattering at
+      full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet! Blackfeet! Every
+      one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the alarm. It appeared
+      that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely, leading their mule
+      well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed close by a small
+      stream overhung with trees, about two miles from the camp. Suddenly a
+      party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the thickets, sprang up with a
+      fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the hunters. The latter
+      immediately threw themselves flat on their horses, put them to their
+      speed, and never paused to look behind, until they found themselves in
+      camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound; but the mule, with all
+      the &ldquo;provant,&rdquo; had fallen into the hands of the enemy This was a loss, as
+      well as an insult, not to be borne. Every man sprang to horse, and with
+      rifle in hand, galloped off to punish the Blackfeet, and rescue the
+      buffalo beef. They came too late; the marauders were off, and all that
+      they found of their mule was the dents of his hoofs, as he had been
+      conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his savory cargo to the hills, to
+      furnish the scampering savages with a banquet of roast meat at the expense
+      of the white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more
+      grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by
+      his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars of
+      the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then
+      pointing to the west, &ldquo;the sun has not yet set,&rdquo; said he: &ldquo;Buckeye did not
+      dream like a fool!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak, and
+      were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to mind,
+      also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions made at
+      various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious credulity,
+      began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how natural it
+      was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction verified in
+      the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a lurking foe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The various bands of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s company had now been assembled
+      for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting, and
+      frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth merrymaking,
+      which invariably take place on these occasions. Their horses, as well as
+      themselves, had recovered from past famine and fatigue, and were again fit
+      for active service; and an impatience began to manifest itself among the
+      men once more to take the field, and set off on some wandering expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a
+      supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active
+      leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in
+      skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year&rsquo;s collection of
+      peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of
+      his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual revel. A
+      grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers; drinking,
+      dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting. Alcohol, which,
+      from its portable qualities, containing the greatest quantity of fiery
+      spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the
+      mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these carousals, and is dealt
+      out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When inflamed by this fiery
+      beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks and gambols, and sometimes burn
+      all their clothes in their drunken bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one
+      of these riotous revels, presents a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes,
+      broken heads, lack-lustre visages. Many of the trappers have squandered in
+      one drunken frolic the hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt,
+      and must toil on to pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep
+      draught of pleasure, and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for
+      hardship and hard work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and
+      topped off with an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless
+      trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and
+      Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed
+      to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year.
+      Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the
+      Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills,
+      and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter
+      quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He intended
+      to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the lower part of the
+      Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the Multnomah; after
+      wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with those tribes,
+      among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would return in the
+      spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and his party in the
+      month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where he expected to
+      receive his annual supplies from the States.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the
+      contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by
+      noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings.
+      Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July, on
+      their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that
+      Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who had
+      parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn, to
+      descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new
+      levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the
+      banks of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this &ldquo;eastern man,&rdquo;
+       and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his
+      movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with the
+      reader&rsquo;s permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his camp and
+      saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few hundred miles in
+      distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch ourselves with Wyeth in
+      his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage will take us many
+      hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering rivers; yet such is the
+      magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring the reader safe to Bear
+      River Valley, by the time the last horse is saddled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0042" id="link2H_4_0042">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      41.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A voyage in a bull boat.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, as
+      the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of the rapids
+      of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of Campbell and
+      Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo skins, stretched on
+      a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid with elk tallow and
+      ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five feet six inches wide,
+      sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew about a foot and a half
+      of water-a depth too great for these upper rivers, which abound with
+      shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of two half-breeds, who claimed
+      to be white men, though a mixture of the French creole and the Shawnee and
+      Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover, to be thorough mountaineers, and
+      first-rate hunters&mdash;the common boast of these vagabonds of the
+      wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce lad of eighteen years of
+      age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great aim, like all Indian
+      servants, was to do as little work as possible; there was, moreover, a
+      half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son of a Hudson&rsquo;s Bay trader
+      by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with Wyeth to see the world and
+      complete his education. Add to these, Mr. Milton Sublette, who went as
+      passenger, and we have the crew of the little bull boat complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet through
+      countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to navigate
+      these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running on snags
+      and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells with which
+      these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest streams; and
+      it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these boats will endure, and
+      what vicissitudes they will live through. Their duration, however, is but
+      limited; they require frequently to be hauled out of the water and dried,
+      to prevent the hides from becoming water-soaked; and they eventually rot
+      and go to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about
+      five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally
+      alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled
+      occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs and
+      promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands. Beyond
+      the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat
+      experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his attention
+      and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags of sunken
+      trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where the river
+      branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and
+      occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were
+      passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in
+      reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable
+      foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly promenading
+      along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as they glided
+      by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying on the ground,
+      like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as these, a perfect
+      solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign of human habitation; for
+      the Crows, as we have already shown, are a wandering people, a race of
+      hunters and warriors, who live in tents and on horseback, and are
+      continually on the move. At night they landed, hauled up their boat to
+      dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing fire. Then, as it was the
+      first evening of their voyage, they indulged in a regale, relishing their
+      buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after which, they slept soundly,
+      without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early in the morning, they again
+      launched the boat and committed themselves to the stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence,
+      excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore,
+      and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried some
+      persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by calculation,
+      at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the American Fur
+      Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A nearer
+      approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from the rest,
+      they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main force of the
+      Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several chiefs, were
+      but about two or three miles below, on their way up along the river. This
+      was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible, and the river
+      afforded no hiding place. They continued forward, therefore, trusting
+      that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows might refrain from any
+      depredations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first
+      band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with
+      guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made a
+      wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their accustomed
+      dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band of Crow
+      cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in height, lithe
+      and active, with hawks&rsquo; eyes and Roman noses. The latter feature is common
+      to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky Mountains; those on the
+      western side have generally straight or flat noses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the river,
+      at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was perceived,
+      therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and, we presume, in no
+      very choice language; for, among their other accomplishments, the Crows
+      are famed for possessing a Billingsgate vocabulary of unrivalled opulence,
+      and for being by no means sparing of it whenever an occasion offers.
+      Indeed, though Indians are generally very lofty, rhetorical, and
+      figurative in their language at all great talks, and high ceremonials,
+      yet, if trappers and traders may be believed, they are the most unsavory
+      vagabonds in their ordinary colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a
+      spade a spade; and when they once undertake to call hard names, the famous
+      pot and kettle, of vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them
+      for scurrility of epithet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the
+      launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with the
+      best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was
+      Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have
+      already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse
+      between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good
+      presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too,
+      thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow
+      fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a still
+      greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his own with
+      surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step among the
+      crowd.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do
+      but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez
+      Perce&rsquo;s scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped up
+      and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped
+      himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that Wyeth
+      and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of these
+      officious Crows before they were entirely plucked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the second
+      band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of passing
+      them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns at the
+      boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the stream,
+      and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth threw a cord
+      to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be drawn to the
+      shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his
+      people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most of
+      their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity of the
+      American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good prize of
+      the bull boat and all its contents.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of
+      mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in the
+      autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects;
+      hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their
+      trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow
+      country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by
+      some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of their
+      rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their competition
+      was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a great object of
+      rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the Crows in their
+      depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent chiefly on robbing
+      the parties of their traps and horses, thereby disabling them from
+      prosecuting their hunting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were pushing
+      their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those of the
+      American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are speaking,
+      Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel boat, laden
+      with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this eager rivalship
+      being carried to extremes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds of
+      dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the river
+      and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this stream,
+      they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank, about three
+      miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld a party of
+      thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be Blackfeet. The width
+      of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient distance, and they soon
+      landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere fortification against Indians; being
+      a stockade of about one hundred and thirty feet square, with two bastions
+      at the extreme corners. M&rsquo;Tulloch, an agent of the American Company, was
+      stationed there with twenty men; two boats of fifteen tons burden were
+      lying here; but at certain seasons of the year a steamboat can come up to
+      the fort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their
+      appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token of
+      amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly received
+      at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been engaged, the year
+      previously, in the battle at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, and a fierce-looking set of
+      fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very much resembling the
+      Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand, to make peace with the
+      Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to overtake them. Wyeth
+      predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he had heard the Crows
+      denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two of their warriors who
+      had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty of peace. It is probable,
+      however, that this pacific errand was all a pretence, and that the real
+      object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang about the skirts of the Crow
+      band, steal their horses, and take the scalps of stragglers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a
+      quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he once
+      more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone, which
+      inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial bottoms,
+      fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood, and interrupted
+      occasionally by &ldquo;bluffs&rdquo; of sandstone. The current occasionally brings
+      down fragments of granite and porphyry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among the
+      trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want of
+      provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time, a party of
+      Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all speed, to the
+      opposite side of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was immediately
+      for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs of dissatisfaction
+      in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as trenching upon their
+      province, and meddling with things quite above his capacity; for these
+      veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly pragmatical, on points of
+      venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their superiority; looking down
+      with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners. The two worthies,
+      therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time returned
+      empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their guns; two
+      miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their picking and
+      hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great boasters of the
+      wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots, and fortunate it
+      is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the blame.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on a
+      prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth, and
+      again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing went
+      off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing his dinner
+      if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand, therefore, and
+      went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned laden with
+      buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular hunters, who
+      were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made
+      under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece of
+      meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before it; in
+      a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters gradually
+      recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard their old flint
+      guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and boasted more than
+      ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they had guns that never
+      missed fire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their
+      repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on their
+      way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they hoisted
+      whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the stream.
+      Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and land,
+      with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped on
+      islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a dangerous
+      neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving their fire
+      burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making no fire at
+      their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night with the
+      current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept. in such
+      case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the following day to
+      dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was gradually getting
+      water-soaked and rotten.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating down
+      these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these elevated
+      regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened the
+      magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of the
+      waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary howl,
+      or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and bellowing
+      of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the ear with an
+      effect unknown in the daytime.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification when
+      they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding swiftly
+      round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them gave the
+      alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and every one
+      caught up his rifle. &ldquo;Where are they?&rdquo; cried Wyeth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;There&mdash;there! riding on horseback!&rdquo; cried one of the hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Yes; with white scarfs on!&rdquo; cried the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but two
+      bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and seeming,
+      from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an opposite
+      direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans, who prided
+      themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight, produced a hearty
+      laugh at their expense, and put an end to their vauntings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream;
+      its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow clay
+      color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour, with
+      occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed them
+      all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places
+      precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region
+      abounding with buffalo&mdash;that ever-journeying animal, which moves in
+      countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing
+      plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming
+      rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some
+      traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at
+      certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit
+      the remotest shores.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths and
+      highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest passes
+      of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers. When once
+      a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward, regardless of
+      all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving mass behind. At
+      such times they will break through a camp, trampling down everything in
+      their course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these
+      buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long
+      asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and
+      the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had just
+      time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the
+      opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they
+      moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the
+      column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold this
+      countless throng making their way across the river, blowing, and
+      bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and continuous
+      column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the waters of which
+      rise and rush over their backs, or between their squadrons. The roaring
+      and rushing sound of one of these vast herds crossing a river, may
+      sometimes in a still night be heard for miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many buffaloes
+      as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their havoc; especially
+      among scattered herds, that came swimming near the boat. On one occasion,
+      an old buffalo bull approached so near that the half-breeds must fain try
+      to noose him as they would a wild horse. The noose was successfully thrown
+      around his head, and secured him by the horns, and they now promised
+      themselves ample sport. The buffalo made prodigious turmoil in the water,
+      bellowing, and blowing, and floundering; and they all floated down the
+      stream together. At length he found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to
+      his heels, whirled the boat after him like a whale when harpooned; so that
+      the hunters were obliged to cast off their rope, with which strange
+      head-gear the venerable bull made off to the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew,
+      into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above
+      the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the
+      distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country. It
+      was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet square,
+      pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably entertained
+      by Mr. M&rsquo;Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him three days,
+      enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and cheese, for the
+      fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it had no garden. The
+      atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be too dry for the culture
+      of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down the Yellowstone, had met
+      with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and had observed ash and elm
+      trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be incompatible with gardening.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men. This
+      was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot warrior.
+      It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth murdered the year
+      previously, at Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, by the Blackfeet, and whose bones had been
+      subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This flask had either been
+      passed from hand to hand of the youth, or, perhaps, had been brought to
+      the fort by the very savage who slew him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the
+      broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up, and a
+      canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the Blackfeet,
+      was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his sail, and
+      bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union, turned his
+      prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a
+      large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William
+      Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition
+      to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they were
+      treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a social
+      evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially the
+      memorable fight at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the canoe,
+      and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the
+      fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on his
+      course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever voyaged on
+      the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the stream, without
+      any chance of missing the way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and
+      supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with the
+      current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and serene;
+      the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the commencement
+      of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the night the canoe
+      struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the rush and roar of
+      the wild waters, which broke around her. They were all obliged to jump
+      overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was accomplished with much
+      difficulty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at
+      different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and
+      was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed
+      hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising to
+      entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him. Their
+      only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before they
+      could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until he was
+      fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled forward
+      with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him in the
+      rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the cord and
+      slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles. There was
+      nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however, than to beat a
+      retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned suddenly round and
+      made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous show of teeth. The
+      affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle off. Scarce had they
+      turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous claws on the gunwale, and
+      attempted to get on board. The canoe was nearly overturned, and a deluge
+      of water came pouring over the gunwale. All was clamor, terror, and
+      confusion. Every one bawled out&mdash;the bear roared and snarled&mdash;one
+      caught up a gun; but water had rendered it useless. Others handled their
+      paddles more effectually, and beating old Bruin about the head and claws,
+      obliged him to relinquish his hold. They now plied their paddles with
+      might and main, the bear made the best of his way to shore, and so ended
+      the second exploit of the noose; the hunters determined to have no more
+      naval contests with grizzly bears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they were
+      approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less
+      dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted
+      quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he
+      supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed his
+      voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at midday,
+      to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters mounted a
+      high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his eye round, when
+      he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the river. Crouching
+      down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he had seen. On further
+      reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one lodges; and from the
+      number of horses, computed that there must be nearly a hundred Indians
+      encamped there. They now drew their boat, with all speed and caution, into
+      a thicket of water willows, and remained closely concealed all day. As
+      soon as the night closed in they re-embarked. The moon would rise early;
+      so that they had but about two hours of darkness to get past the camp. The
+      night, however, was cloudy, with a blustering wind. Silently, and with
+      muffled oars, they glided down the river, keeping close under the shore
+      opposite to the camp; watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark
+      forms passing to and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of
+      land, they found themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the
+      river. It appeared that not more than one half of the band had crossed.
+      They were within a few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages&mdash;some
+      standing, some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some
+      lodges were set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare
+      of the fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the
+      surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly
+      came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked; but
+      the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth instantly
+      sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it struck upon a
+      sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying situation; for he
+      was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle range of both. All hands
+      jumped out into the water, and tried to get the boat off; but as no one
+      dared to give the word, they could not pull together, and their labor was
+      in vain. In this way they labored for a long time; until Wyeth thought of
+      giving a signal for a general heave, by lifting his hat. The expedient
+      succeeded. They launched their canoe again into deep water, and getting
+      in, had the delight of seeing the camp fires of the savages soon fading in
+      the distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond
+      all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in
+      carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm
+      night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the night,
+      taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night was
+      occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse lowing of
+      the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching of the small
+      ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike sound of the
+      swan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds,
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in extreme
+      danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having continued
+      to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under a great snag,
+      or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These caught the mast,
+      while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream, and began to fill
+      with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but cutting away the mast.
+      She then drove down the stream, but left one of the unlucky half-breeds
+      clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole. It was necessary to run in
+      shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies and to attain some distance
+      above the snag, when they launched forth again into the stream and floated
+      down with it to his rescue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of a
+      months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in the
+      course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the rival
+      fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe. Neither
+      shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as the
+      voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of
+      latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry and
+      basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the
+      characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still
+      more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession of
+      latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the frozen
+      regions to the tropics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the rivers,
+      on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of the
+      western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct the
+      voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself in a
+      stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from river to
+      river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he might have kept
+      on upward of two thousand miles, until his little bark should drift into
+      the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at Cantonment Leavenworth,
+      the frontier post of the United States; where he arrived on the 27th of
+      September.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed
+      boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were hailed
+      by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what appeared
+      to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck Baptiste with
+      such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy at the top of
+      his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not Wyeth assured
+      him of his safety. When they underwent the operation of the lancet, the
+      doctor&rsquo;s wife and another lady were present; both beautiful women. They
+      were the first white women that they had seen, and they could not keep
+      their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat, they recounted to their
+      companions all that they had observed at the fort; but were especially
+      eloquent about the white squaws, who, they said, were white as snow, and
+      more beautiful than any human being they had ever beheld.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will
+      simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in
+      organizing an association under the name of &ldquo;The Columbia River Fishing
+      and Trading Company,&rdquo; for his original objects of a salmon fishery and a
+      trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the
+      Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at
+      the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom
+      were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the
+      wilderness than his first band of &ldquo;down-easters.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left,
+      making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0044" id="link2H_4_0044">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      42.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia&mdash;Advance of
+     Wyeth&mdash;Efforts to keep the lead&mdash;Hudson&rsquo;s Bay party&mdash;A
+     junketing&mdash;A delectable beverage&mdash;Honey and alcohol&mdash;High
+     carousing&mdash;The Canadian &ldquo;bon vivant&rdquo;&mdash;A cache&mdash;A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans&mdash;His travelling companions&mdash;Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality&mdash;An interruption.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second visit
+      to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He
+      travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July a
+      scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in the
+      rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle in the
+      camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to secure
+      provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden to travel
+      fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive all
+      superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of the
+      earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two miles
+      further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line of
+      horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and
+      encamped close by.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company,
+      under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders, who,
+      with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are employed to
+      follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to another, and buy up
+      their peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, the
+      captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening
+      regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in
+      these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon made,
+      that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a midsummer
+      banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was abundance of
+      such hunters&rsquo; fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it was all discussed
+      with mountain appetites. They talked over all the events of their late
+      campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been unlucky in some of his
+      transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy. Captain Bonneville
+      remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had no juice of the
+      grape to keep it down.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A man&rsquo;s wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a thought
+      suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable beverage.
+      Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted. This he filled up
+      with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous ingredients together.
+      The glorious results may readily be imagined; a happy compound of strength
+      and sweetness, enough to soothe the most ruffled temper and unsettle the
+      most solid understanding.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first deep
+      draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the second
+      elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon companion; as
+      all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became glorious; talked
+      over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings with Indian braves, his
+      loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old French ditties, and
+      Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang louder and louder;
+      until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety, he gradually declined,
+      and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground. After a long nap he again
+      raised his head, imbibed another potation of the &ldquo;sweet and strong,&rdquo;
+       flashed up with another slight blaze of French gayety, and again fell
+      asleep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and
+      sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and
+      calling to mind the captain&rsquo;s dulcet compound, with many a retch and
+      spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly
+      and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and that he
+      had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless and woebegone
+      was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march without him; the
+      captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after part of the day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men proceeded to
+      construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the party of
+      Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity to take the
+      road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being lightened of a great
+      part of their burdens, were able to move with celerity. As to the worthy
+      convive of the preceding evening, he was carefully gathered up from the
+      hunter&rsquo;s couch on which he lay, repentant and supine, and, being packed
+      upon one of the horses, was hurried forward with the convoy, groaning and
+      ejaculating at every jolt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of his
+      party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly and
+      courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes since
+      they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his intention
+      of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the Portneuf, and
+      leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to trade with the
+      neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this measure, in
+      consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to take a
+      supply of goods which he had brought out for them according to contract;
+      and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further informed
+      Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky Mountain and
+      American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious stratagems and
+      deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the country between them,
+      allotting boundaries within which each was to trade and hunt, so as not to
+      interfere with the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall, the
+      botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the expedition
+      to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these gentlemen we
+      may look forward to important information concerning these interesting
+      regions. There were three religious missionaries, also, bound to the
+      shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel in that far
+      wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth
+      returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press forward,
+      and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and moralizing
+      chief of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, under a proper escort, to rejoin his
+      people; his route branching off in a different direction. The latter took
+      a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future occasion, to repay his
+      hospitality in kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts out far
+      ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had confidently
+      expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of the Portneuf;
+      but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the
+      head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly grazing
+      in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report his
+      discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably
+      entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to his
+      own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o&rsquo;clock of the same
+      morning, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party were in the midst of the game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners,
+      mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others
+      of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for
+      jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same
+      purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing in the
+      choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the scaffolds,
+      and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and activity. At
+      daylight the next morning, the runners again took the field, with similar
+      success; and, after an interval of repose made their third and last chase,
+      about twelve o&rsquo;clock; for by this time, Wyeth&rsquo;s party was in sight. The
+      game being now driven into a valley, at some distance, Wyeth was obliged
+      to fix his camp there; but he came in the evening to pay Captain
+      Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, the amateur
+      traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for the adventurous life of
+      the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M&rsquo;Kay, a half-breed; son of the
+      unfortunate adventurer of the same name who came out in the first maritime
+      expedition to Astoria and was blown up in the Tonquin. His son had grown
+      up in the employ of the British fur companies; and was a prime hunter, and
+      a daring partisan. He held, moreover, a farm in the valley of the
+      Wallamut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, were
+      surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party being
+      dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present chance for
+      hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of remaining with so
+      trifling a guard in a region so full of danger. Captain Bonneville
+      vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never hesitated to send out all
+      his hunters, when any important object was to be attained; and experience
+      had taught him that he was most secure when his forces were thus
+      distributed over the surrounding country. He then was sure that no enemy
+      could approach, from any direction, without being discovered by his
+      hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the slightest signs of the
+      proximity of Indians; and who would instantly convey intelligence to the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable
+      entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of
+      prime hunters&rsquo; dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and
+      roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in hunters&rsquo;
+      style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful hunting
+      ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the puny
+      gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian grace
+      to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his mellifluous keg
+      of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over the senses of the
+      veteran of Hudson&rsquo;s Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again went round; never
+      did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more rapturous
+      commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that happy state which
+      would have insured ample cause for the next day&rsquo;s repentance; and the bees
+      were already beginning to buzz about their ears, when a messenger came
+      spurring to the camp with intelligence that Wyeth&rsquo;s people had got
+      entangled in one of those deep and frightful ravines, piled with immense
+      fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the whole country about the
+      head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel was instantly at an end; the
+      keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was deserted; and the guests departed
+      with all speed to aid in extricating their companions from the volcanic
+      ravine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0045" id="link2H_4_0045">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      43.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A rapid march&mdash;A cloud of dust&mdash;Wild horsemen&mdash;&ldquo;High Jinks&rdquo;
+      Horseracing and rifle-shooting&mdash;The game of hand&mdash;The
+     fishing season&mdash;Mode of fishing&mdash;Table lands&mdash;Salmon
+     fishers&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s visit to an Indian lodge&mdash;The Indian
+     girl&mdash;The pocket mirror&mdash;Supper&mdash;Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;UP and away!&rdquo; is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader, when
+      a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the morning,
+      Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed upon the
+      horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered buffalo,
+      pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His
+      march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs
+      and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks rose
+      like walls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and as it
+      was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring hills. In
+      casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great cloud of dust
+      rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening back to the
+      camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made to receive an
+      enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the &ldquo;running
+      horses&rdquo; kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a little while,
+      they made signals from a distance that all was friendly. By this time the
+      cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a blast, and a band of
+      wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and
+      whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their
+      mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of
+      savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally half-breeds,
+      and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who were employed as
+      trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here was again &ldquo;high jinks&rdquo; in the camp. Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men hailed
+      these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game
+      birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of
+      mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual
+      details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals of
+      laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses and
+      rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing,
+      and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded another,
+      shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties, fierce
+      altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take place, when
+      suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind
+      of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm.
+      Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas
+      of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws were turned in a
+      new direction. They all formed into groups and taking their places at the
+      several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting amusements of the Nez
+      Perces and the other tribes of the Far West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind of
+      wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of &ldquo;Hand.&rdquo; This is played
+      by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing fire. It is
+      in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or the button, and
+      detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game, the object hidden,
+      or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood,
+      or other diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This
+      is passed backward and forward among the party &ldquo;in hand,&rdquo; while the party
+      &ldquo;out of hand&rdquo; guess where it is concealed. To heighten the excitement and
+      confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles are laid before each platoon,
+      upon which the members of the party &ldquo;in hand&rdquo; beat furiously with short
+      staves, keeping time to the choral chant already mentioned, which waxes
+      fast and furious as the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the
+      game, the excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full
+      chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such a heat
+      that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders, even in the cold
+      of a winter night. The bets are doubled and trebled as the game advances,
+      the mental excitement increases almost to madness, and all the worldly
+      effects of the gamblers are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire glared
+      upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic orgies,
+      and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding day, had
+      not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour,
+      issued his marching orders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly returned
+      to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet scarcely able
+      to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was now the season of
+      the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these parts celebrate the
+      first appearance of the salmon in this river. These fish are taken in
+      great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch. The Indians
+      flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as they attempt to
+      pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a sort of
+      chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and forming
+      an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening is left for
+      the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station themselves on
+      small rafts, and ply their spears with great success.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil, inconsiderable
+      in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly speaking, wormwood.
+      Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven occasionally by frightful
+      chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches the river, and terminates
+      with high and broken cliffs, difficult to pass, and in many places so
+      precipitous that it is impossible, for days together, to get down to the
+      water&rsquo;s edge, to give drink to the horses. This obliges the traveller
+      occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a wide sweep
+      into the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely from
+      sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were
+      extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the
+      edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the
+      travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly
+      shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of
+      the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
+      current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after
+      the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly five
+      hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with groves
+      of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in great
+      numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to enable
+      them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid race,
+      and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one of the
+      huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a
+      fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung over
+      the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is considered
+      cooked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain
+      awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the
+      repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part.
+      While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him, and
+      turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a
+      young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed
+      her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute
+      surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears, and
+      drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly to tie it
+      round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a sound very
+      much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the captain, albeit
+      a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering
+      the shyness of the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned
+      toward the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco,
+      and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his pipe, and
+      watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold, an urchin of the
+      family approached the door, but catching a sight of the strange guest, ran
+      off screaming with terror and ensconced himself behind the long straw at
+      the back of the hut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the
+      simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere
+      concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of a
+      savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After examining
+      it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat
+      skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head; but
+      purchased the skin for a couple of buttons&mdash;superfluous trinkets! as
+      the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to
+      place them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in the
+      eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and a
+      string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return; but
+      could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being now
+      completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion
+      was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass,
+      which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon boiled
+      so completely to his fancy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to his host,
+      who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils so assiduously,
+      that in a little while his head manifested signs of confusion and
+      dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the kindly and companionable
+      qualities of the captain, he became easy and communicative; and at length
+      hinted something about exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at
+      once offered to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door.
+      The bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of
+      bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of
+      skins agreed upon as the price.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly afterward, some of the captain&rsquo;s people coming up, he ordered
+      another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from the
+      hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple
+      inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl had
+      kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking, watching
+      every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing
+      after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his
+      new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed in the
+      train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a faithful and useful
+      adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct
+      of one of the captain&rsquo;s men, who had been in the California expedition.
+      During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place, he
+      had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled freely
+      and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious
+      look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at the
+      sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who regarded him with
+      reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily a bold fellow, who
+      never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the prospect of a battle.
+      At length he requested permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the
+      way of these people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the
+      people of Ogden&rsquo;s River, made him continually fear that some among them
+      might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek an opportunity of
+      revenge. Ever after this, while they remained in this neighborhood, he
+      would skulk out of the way and keep aloof when any of the native
+      inhabitants approached. &ldquo;Such,&rdquo; observed Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;is the
+      effect of self-reproach, even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness,
+      who has little else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0046" id="link2H_4_0046">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      44.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Outfit of a trapper&mdash;Risks to which he is subjected&mdash;
+     Partnership of trappers&mdash;Enmity of Indians&mdash;Distant smoke&mdash;A
+     country on fire&mdash;Gun Greek&mdash;Grand Rond&mdash;Fine pastures&mdash;
+     Perplexities in a smoky country&mdash;Conflagration of forests.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along Snake
+      River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this way a
+      range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body. The
+      outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder, and four
+      pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe, a hatchet, a
+      knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where supplies are
+      plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two or three horses, to
+      carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two trappers commonly go
+      together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and support; a larger
+      party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians. It is a service of
+      peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for the Indians, since
+      they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries with the traders,
+      have learned the value of the beaver, and look upon the trappers as
+      poachers, who are filching the riches from their streams, and interfering
+      with their market. They make no hesitation, therefore, to murder the
+      solitary trapper, and thus destroy a competitor, while they possess
+      themselves of his spoils. It is with regret we add, too, that this
+      hostility has in many cases been instigated by traders, desirous of
+      injuring their rivals, but who have themselves often reaped the fruits of
+      the mischief they have sown.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of
+      proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can
+      graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a
+      cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening,
+      and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at
+      daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch
+      the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up
+      before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior
+      style; the tail is the trapper&rsquo;s tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end of
+      a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than the
+      tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot
+      always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered,
+      perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen
+      curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages,
+      whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they
+      are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times,
+      they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps,
+      have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of one
+      of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time to
+      time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are
+      found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless
+      stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small
+      streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate
+      trappers that have been murdered on their banks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present
+      instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended; for
+      his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck Indians
+      were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great distance, so that
+      they would be apt to detect and cut off any stragglers. It behooved him,
+      also, to keep his party together, to guard against any predatory attack
+      upon the main body; he continued on his way, therefore, without dividing
+      his forces. And fortunate it was that he did so; for in a little while he
+      encountered one of the phenomena of the western wilds that would
+      effectually have prevented his scattered people from finding each other
+      again. In a word, it was the season of setting fire to the prairies. As he
+      advanced he began to perceive great clouds of smoke at a distance, rising
+      by degrees, and spreading over the whole face of the country. The
+      atmosphere became dry and surcharged with murky vapor, parching to the
+      skin, and irritating to the eyes. When travelling among the hills, they
+      could scarcely discern objects at the distance of a few paces; indeed, the
+      least exertion of the vision was painful. There was evidently some vast
+      conflagration in the direction toward which they were proceeding; it was
+      as yet at a great distance, and during the day they could only see the
+      smoke rising in larger and denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense
+      canopy. At night the skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen
+      fires, hanging in an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left,
+      Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and
+      avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the
+      Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope
+      for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game might
+      be scarce.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke
+      continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish the
+      face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the travellers
+      fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters of the Fourche
+      de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand Rond. Here they found
+      all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast conflagration; which swept
+      over the long grass in billows of flame, shot up every bush and tree, rose
+      in great columns from the groves, and set up clouds of smoke that darkened
+      the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of fire, the travellers had to pursue
+      their course close along the foot of the mountains; but the irritation
+      from the smoke continued to be tormenting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into broad
+      and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain springs and
+      rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of the Skynses, to
+      pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the salmon which abound
+      in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in great quantities and
+      without the least difficulty; simply taking them out of the water with
+      their hands, as they flounder and struggle in the numerous long shoals of
+      the principal streams. At the time the travellers passed over these
+      prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams by which they were intersected
+      were completely choked with salmon, which they took in great numbers. The
+      wolves and bears frequent these streams at this season, to avail
+      themselves of these great fisheries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great difficulties
+      and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed to embrace the
+      whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the time obscured by the
+      smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from view. Blundering along
+      in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were frequently obliged to
+      make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they could not perceive until
+      close upon them. The Indian trails were their safest guides, for though
+      they sometimes appeared to lead them out of their direct course, they
+      always conducted them to the passes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River.
+      Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes its
+      way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable, and
+      appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce language, an
+      intercourse was easily kept up with them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped
+      for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses.
+      Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search
+      for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or
+      Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and
+      discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain
+      defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and
+      precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of
+      frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of
+      these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have
+      been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree, from
+      which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were not
+      the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration of the
+      country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was still more
+      awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames which swept
+      rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed a fiercer
+      character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and ravines of
+      the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up sheets of
+      flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that in the night
+      made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and forests, too,
+      which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns of fire, and
+      added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these stupendous sights
+      were combined the rushing blasts caused by the rarefied air, which roared
+      and howled through the narrow glens, and whirled forth the smoke and
+      flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon, too, was heard the crash of
+      falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags and precipices, with
+      tremendous sounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and blinding,
+      that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only find each
+      other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way through the yet
+      burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and trunks of trees,
+      which frequently fell across their path. At length they gave up the
+      attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual circumstances, and made
+      their way back to the camp to report their failure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0047" id="link2H_4_0047">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      45.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The Skynses&mdash;Their traffic&mdash;Hunting&mdash;Food&mdash;Horses&mdash;A horse-
+     race&mdash;Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads&mdash;Prayers&mdash;Exhortations&mdash;A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes&mdash;A new
+     light.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been
+      kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into the
+      neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of the
+      Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the articles
+      of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to the trading
+      posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal traffic with
+      the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep in distant and
+      unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture near the trading
+      houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally; and depend, for a
+      part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence, however, is upon
+      roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said to be of a
+      delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it up in great
+      quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter provisions. It
+      grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles among
+      them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s men; offering a couple of good running horses for a light
+      rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured from them
+      on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a breed infinitely
+      superior to any in the United States. They are fond of trying their speed
+      and bottom, and of betting upon them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit of
+      their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of speed
+      between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to be well
+      matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a half out
+      and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead by a few
+      hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the Shoshonie
+      and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they went head and
+      head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the race with great
+      ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong
+      devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some of the
+      resident personages of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. Sunday is invariably kept
+      sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their camp on that day,
+      unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither will they hunt, nor
+      fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on that day. A part of it
+      is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies. Some chief, who is generally
+      at the same time what is called a &ldquo;medicine man,&rdquo; assembles the community.
+      After invoking blessings from the Deity, he addresses the assemblage,
+      exhorting them to good conduct; to be diligent in providing for their
+      families; to abstain from lying and stealing; to avoid quarrelling or
+      cheating in their play, and to be just and hospitable to all strangers who
+      may be among them. Prayers and exhortations are also made, early in the
+      morning, on week days. Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from
+      horseback; moving slowly about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his
+      exhortations with a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen
+      with profound attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word
+      in unison, apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and
+      exhortations are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If
+      an Indian is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and
+      attends with reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his
+      prayer or exhortation, he says, &ldquo;I have done,&rdquo; upon which there is a
+      general exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably
+      derived from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of
+      their old Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or
+      ballad, which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose.
+      Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the Roman
+      Catholic Church.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor
+      savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and
+      effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not merely
+      from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from that of Mr.
+      Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the Flatheads.
+      &ldquo;During the time I have been with them,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;I have never known an
+      instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to a bead or pin, is
+      brought to you, if found; and often, things that have been thrown away.
+      Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This absence of all
+      quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the various
+      occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the crowding
+      together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have to be
+      driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the morning;
+      the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty. All this,
+      however, is done without confusion or disturbance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed in
+      their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one speaks, the
+      rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents by &lsquo;yes,&rsquo; or
+      dissents by &lsquo;no;&rsquo; and then states his reasons, which are listened to with
+      equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable than any other
+      children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor any quarrelling;
+      although there were, at least, five hundred of them together, and
+      continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit, they are brave
+      when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal number of
+      Blackfeet.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative to
+      the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain
+      Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion, in
+      conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the cultivation
+      of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between their
+      peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes, and
+      attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He
+      frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always
+      enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed
+      that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable
+      degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead them,
+      Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain; the
+      country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the raising
+      of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling assistance
+      from government, to protect them from the predatory and warlike tribes,
+      might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the midst of the great
+      western wilderness, who would &ldquo;wear the Americans near their hearts.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity of
+      this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all ardently
+      addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar day for
+      recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of season. After
+      prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an hour in the day,
+      says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several horses racing at full
+      speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups of gamblers, ready to
+      stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of hand. The Indians, says
+      Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with more zest than the whites.
+      They are great gamblers; and in proportion to their means, play bolder and
+      bet higher than white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the savages,
+      has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more knowing
+      traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them by being
+      considered &ldquo;medicine men;&rdquo; that is, men gifted with mysterious knowledge.
+      This feeling is also at times played upon by religious charlatans, who are
+      to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One of these was noted by
+      Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads. A new great man, says he,
+      is rising in the camp, who aims at power and sway. He covers his designs
+      under the ample cloak of religion; inculcating some new doctrines and
+      ceremonials among those who are more simple than himself. He has already
+      made proselytes of one-fifth of the camp; beginning by working on the
+      women, the children, and the weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on
+      the plain, to their own vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe
+      look on and laugh; thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will
+      soon find that women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every
+      community, and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be
+      considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of
+      the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or
+      branches off and sets up an independent chief and &ldquo;medicine man.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0048" id="link2H_4_0048">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      46.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Scarcity in the camp&mdash;Refusal of supplies by the Hudson&rsquo;s
+     Bay Company&mdash;Conduct of the Indians&mdash;A hungry retreat&mdash;John
+     Day&rsquo;s River&mdash;The Blue Mountains&mdash;Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country&mdash;Bear River Valley&mdash;
+     immense migration of buffalo&mdash;Danger of buffalo hunting&mdash;A
+     wounded Indian&mdash;Eutaw Indians&mdash;A &ldquo;surround&rdquo; of antelopes.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville
+      found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore, of
+      his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing a low
+      range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais. Being now
+      within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither to
+      purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well received
+      at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily refused.
+      Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave their present
+      employ, and enter into the service of the company; but they were not to be
+      seduced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he ordered
+      an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He pushed
+      forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal to the
+      Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the Wallah-Wallah. His
+      route lay through a beautiful undulating country, covered with horses
+      belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with
+      the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they kept
+      aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered that
+      they were under the influence of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who had
+      forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded
+      along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of
+      provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length
+      obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people. He
+      now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and
+      beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a
+      little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble
+      valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance under
+      present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources of the
+      country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous and
+      powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely hope
+      to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any longer
+      in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and cut off their
+      retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to reach the Blue
+      Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the bighorn; and
+      after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they might push
+      through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by snow.
+      Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly turned
+      his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue
+      Mountains. He took his course up John Day&rsquo;s River, so called from one of
+      the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at his
+      heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of October.
+      He entered by the opening made by John Day&rsquo;s River; it was a rugged and
+      difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed to hard
+      scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had extinguished
+      the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the mountains, no
+      longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur and sublimity to
+      the eye.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in
+      the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning
+      from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them.
+      It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to
+      keep the party from starvation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for ten
+      days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much perplexity,
+      they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following the course of
+      which, they were sure to reach their place of destination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon this
+      noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty
+      numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its banks
+      to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for winter
+      provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense quantities of
+      fish drying upon them. At this season of the year, however, the salmon are
+      extremely poor, and the travellers needed their keen sauce of hunger to
+      give them a relish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead
+      salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the
+      fetid odor of which tainted the air.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf
+      that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the
+      buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days,
+      slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an
+      enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found
+      good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard
+      travelling.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be
+      messengers sent express for supplies from Montero&rsquo;s party; which had been
+      sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter on the
+      Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but that they
+      had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission, and were still
+      in the Crow country, where they should remain until joined by Captain
+      Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the messengers with him
+      until the 17th of November, when, having reached the caches on Bear River,
+      and procured thence the required supplies, he sent them back to their
+      party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of June following, on the
+      forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having
+      discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased from
+      them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and arranged with
+      them to encamp together during the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the
+      upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it as
+      long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which would
+      be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but slowly,
+      merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his position.
+      The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow lay to a
+      considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried meat as
+      possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage that
+      could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to move
+      slowly toward their winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the present
+      winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the buffaloes before
+      the snow had become deep, immense herds now came trooping over the
+      mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from which their
+      deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and mutterings from a
+      gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke, and down came the
+      torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly impossible, according to
+      Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the effect produced by the sight
+      of such countless throngs of animals of such bulk and spirit, all rushing
+      forward as if swept on by a whirlwind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor
+      to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party,
+      finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without either
+      rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was passing close
+      by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such lucky aim as to
+      bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but hunger had made him
+      almost desperate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded in
+      particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a bull produces
+      no other effect than a toss of the head and greater exasperation; on the
+      contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow is fatal. Several
+      instances occurred during this great hunting bout, of bulls fighting
+      furiously after having received mortal wounds. Wyeth, also, was witness to
+      an instance of the kind while encamped with Indians. During a grand hunt
+      of the buffaloes, one of the Indians pressed a bull so closely that the
+      animal turned suddenly on him. His horse stopped short, or started back,
+      and threw him. Before he could rise the bull rushed furiously upon him,
+      and gored him in the chest so that his breath came out at the aperture. He
+      was conveyed back to the camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself
+      up for slain, he called round him his friends, and made his will by word
+      of mouth. It was something like a death chant, and at the end of every
+      sentence those around responded in concord. He appeared no ways
+      intimidated by the approach of death. &ldquo;I think,&rdquo; adds Wyeth, &ldquo;the Indians
+      die better than the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the
+      future.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the
+      leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and move off
+      from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now
+      snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the
+      winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual
+      carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of
+      the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with the
+      appetite of a hunting camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer.
+      These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as the
+      winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the report
+      of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering in the air,
+      no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of the wolves would
+      peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the hunter&rsquo;s departure
+      to pounce upon the carcass.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the
+      valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a
+      band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They are a
+      poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these
+      regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root
+      Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few
+      rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of old
+      grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was feared
+      some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore, undertook
+      the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs, inviting them to
+      a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a reconciliation. His invitation
+      was proudly declined; whereupon he went to them in person, and succeeded
+      in effecting a suspension of hostilities until the chiefs of the two
+      tribes could meet in council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly
+      acquiesced in the arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill
+      tops, and watch their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain
+      below, and evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish.
+      The worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent
+      mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet
+      buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united and
+      mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would
+      occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows
+      would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the chiefs
+      wisely took no notice of these individual brawls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of
+      several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance.
+      This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in
+      ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin of
+      the antelope. It was determined to have &ldquo;a surround,&rdquo; as the mode of
+      hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic
+      solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms
+      each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally with
+      the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of animals
+      which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries. After much
+      grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed that all who
+      were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should muster for &ldquo;the
+      surround.&rdquo; When all had congregated, they moved in rude procession to the
+      nearest point of the valley in question, and there halted. Another course
+      of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians are so fond, took place
+      among the chiefs. Directions were then issued for the horsemen to make a
+      circuit of about seven miles, so as to encompass the herd. When this was
+      done, the whole mounted force dashed off simultaneously, at full speed,
+      shouting and yelling at the top of their voices. In a short space of time
+      the antelopes, started from their hiding-places, came bounding from all
+      points into the valley. The riders, now gradually contracting their
+      circle, brought them nearer and nearer to the spot where the senior chief,
+      surrounded by the elders, male and female, were seated in supervision of
+      the chase. The antelopes, nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and
+      bewildered by perpetual whooping, made no effort to break through the ring
+      of the hunters, but ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and
+      child beat them down with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of
+      antelope hunting, technically called &ldquo;a surround.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0049" id="link2H_4_0049">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      47.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A festive winter&mdash;Conversion of the Shoshonies&mdash;Visit of two
+     free trappers&mdash;Gayety in the camp&mdash;A touch of the tender
+     passion&mdash;The reclaimed squaw&mdash;An Indian fine lady&mdash;An
+     elopement&mdash;A pursuit&mdash;Market value of a bad wife.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was
+      overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches, buffalo
+      tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire; and the
+      whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast meat. It was,
+      indeed, a continual &ldquo;feast of fat things,&rdquo; and though there might be a
+      lack of &ldquo;wine upon the lees,&rdquo; yet we have shown that a substitute was
+      occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great
+      propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from their
+      good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but then, they
+      always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference and respect,
+      and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of feats of
+      activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward each other,
+      also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville reason to hope
+      that all past animosity was effectually buried.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social
+      manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form. The
+      senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of
+      observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new code
+      of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended their
+      devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in elevating
+      the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined, by the same
+      means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their ignorant rivals,
+      the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and promulgated among
+      them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the Nez Perces;
+      recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were struck with
+      the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it with spirit.
+      They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have their devotional
+      dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about which the ignorant Eutaws
+      knew nothing; while they exerted their usual competition in shooting and
+      horseracing, and the renowned game of hand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley
+      community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free
+      trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds as
+      fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks&rsquo; bells, came
+      galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company, in
+      the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s company a visit. An idea may be formed from the scenes we
+      have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the manner in
+      which these game birds were received by those of their feather in the
+      camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting, what bragging, what
+      ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and squabbling and fighting,
+      ensued among these boon companions. Captain Bonneville, it is true,
+      maintained always a certain degree of law and order in his camp, and
+      checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in their seasons of idleness
+      and relaxation require a degree of license and indulgence, to repay them
+      for the long privations and almost incredible hardships of their periods
+      of active service.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender
+      passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among the
+      Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free
+      trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These
+      connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue for
+      years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free trapper
+      starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain their
+      belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their
+      protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all
+      that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race&mdash;whose gait,
+      and garb, and bravery he emulates&mdash;with all that is gallant and
+      glorious in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats
+      her, the finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves,
+      the sway she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the
+      drudge and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and
+      build his lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry
+      blows. No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the
+      wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. &lsquo;The
+      beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken
+      prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily ransomed
+      for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured about the camp
+      in fine array, &ldquo;with rings on her fingers, and bells on her toes,&rdquo; and a
+      tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy, admiration, and
+      abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working squaws of her
+      acquaintance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become
+      the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of older
+      date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his
+      household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was the
+      wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his eyes.
+      All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the very
+      proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of the trapper
+      was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He endeavored to
+      prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His horses were
+      fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight they would be
+      beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment in Green River
+      Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at defiance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease and
+      splendor of condition of a trapper&rsquo;s bride, and throbbed to be free from
+      the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the failure
+      of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted; the Indian
+      girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with his thwarted
+      passion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of the
+      Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his lodge,
+      with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At night, as
+      the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered at the door
+      of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She was ready to
+      follow whithersoever he should lead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift
+      of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up and
+      saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over the
+      snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of
+      escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse
+      before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and prairies
+      be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the present,
+      however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses forward
+      over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every blast, they
+      heard the yell of the pursuer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his
+      swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of the
+      fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds, however,
+      which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the prints made by
+      the horses&rsquo; hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of them, and was
+      completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the situation of the
+      camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course through the
+      mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the fugitives.
+      Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his course by day and
+      night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It was some time before
+      the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had they traversed the
+      wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and fatigue, and their horses
+      faltering under them. The first object that met their eyes on entering the
+      camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed, knife in hand, to plunge it in
+      the heart that had proved false to him. The trapper threw himself before
+      the cowering form of his mistress, and, exhausted as he was, prepared for
+      a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie paused. His habitual awe of the white man
+      checked his arm; the trapper&rsquo;s friends crowded to the spot, and arrested
+      him. A parley ensued. A kind of crim. con. adjudication took place; such
+      as frequently occurs in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared
+      to be a fair compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost
+      her heart; with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion.
+      He returned to Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is
+      true; but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing
+      that two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0050" id="link2H_4_0050">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      48.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Breaking up of winter quarters&mdash;Move to Green River&mdash;A
+     trapper and his rifle&mdash;An arrival in camp&mdash;A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress&mdash;Story of a Blackfoot belle.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills, and
+      from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping had
+      arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who brought
+      away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April (1835), the
+      camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white men and their
+      allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many regrets and sincere
+      expressions of good-will; for their intercourse throughout the winter had
+      been of the most friendly kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham&rsquo;s Fork, and reached the
+      Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they
+      remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were
+      conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their
+      vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant
+      precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such
+      dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle
+      even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he takes
+      it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him, ready
+      to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly as a
+      citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend and
+      protector.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind River
+      Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to give
+      their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey; for it
+      was Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s intention to shape his course to the settlements;
+      having already been detained by the complication of his duties, and by
+      various losses and impediments, far beyond the time specified in his leave
+      of absence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River
+      Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and
+      accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty
+      hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had
+      abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper; whom
+      they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and baggage, and
+      an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate prairie. The
+      horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this helpless pair,
+      and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their effects to the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress,
+      especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately
+      dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day
+      they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart
+      mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot
+      beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper&rsquo;s bride.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain Bonneville
+      entered into conversation with her, and obtained from her many particulars
+      concerning the habits and customs of her tribe; especially their wars and
+      huntings. They pride themselves upon being the &ldquo;best legs of the
+      mountains,&rdquo; and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done in spring time,
+      when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The heavy buffaloes
+      then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily overtaken by the
+      Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the surface. It is said,
+      however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains are
+      fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic side; those upon the plains
+      of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by a horse that would outstrip
+      the same animal in the neighborhood of the Platte, the usual hunting
+      ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of further conversation, Captain
+      Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her whole story; which gave a
+      picture of savage life, and of the drudgery and hardships to which an
+      Indian wife is subject.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I was the wife,&rdquo; said she, &ldquo;of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served him
+      faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well
+      provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed
+      water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat
+      cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay him.
+      I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the trouble of
+      speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs and warriors
+      smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things, in secret; but my
+      feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see nothing but him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I? When
+      he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered without
+      further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses; tied them
+      to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his feet. If his
+      moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which were dry and
+      warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase. He could never
+      say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the antelope, and the
+      buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else was done by me.
+      When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse and rode away; free
+      as though he had fallen from the skies. He had nothing to do with the
+      labor of the camp; it was I that packed the horses and led them on the
+      journey. When we halted in the evening, and he sat with the other braves
+      and smoked, it was I that pitched his lodge; and when he came to eat and
+      sleep, his supper and his bed were ready.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on
+      his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his
+      wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how I
+      was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant and
+      fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother was
+      not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps death. At
+      length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the village. He pointed
+      away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in peace among them. We
+      parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the Nez Perces before me. I
+      paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on; but my horse neighed, and
+      I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to gallop forward. In a little
+      while I was in the midst of the lodges. As I sat silent on my horse, the
+      people gathered round me, and inquired whence I came. I told my story. A
+      chief now wrapped his blanket close around him, and bade me dismount. I
+      obeyed. He took my horse to lead him away. My heart grew small within me.
+      I felt, on parting with my horse, as if my last friend was gone. I had no
+      words, and my eyes were dry. As he led off my horse a young brave stepped
+      forward. &lsquo;Are you a chief of the people?&rsquo; cried he. &lsquo;Do we listen to you
+      in council, and follow you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp
+      from the dogs of Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your
+      face! The stranger is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a
+      warrior at her side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse.
+      But he is yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!&rsquo;&mdash;his
+      bow was drawn, and the arrow ready!&mdash;&lsquo;you never shall cross his
+      back!&rsquo; The arrow pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my
+      heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears; like
+      the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the days
+      passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in praise of
+      the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for his
+      wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and I have
+      taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this way, some
+      of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses of the
+      party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The guns were
+      laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white men attempted
+      to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began. The snow was deep,
+      the white men sank into it at every step; but the red men, with their
+      snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and drove off many of the
+      horses in sight of their owners. With those that remained we resumed our
+      journey. At length words took place between the leader of the party and my
+      husband. He took away our horses, which had escaped in the battle, and
+      turned us from his camp. My husband had one good friend among the
+      trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had asked assistance for
+      them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he came in from hunting,
+      and found that we had been driven away, he gave up all his wages, and
+      followed us, that he might speak good words for us to the white captain.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0051" id="link2H_4_0051">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      49.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Rendezvous at Wind River&mdash;Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country&mdash;Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet&mdash;Death&mdash;of Arapooish&mdash;Blackfeet lurkers&mdash;Sagacity
+     of the horse&mdash;Dependence of the hunter on his horse&mdash;Return
+     to the settlements.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the
+      forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he
+      was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the
+      preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to the
+      Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions; after
+      trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder River.
+      Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated him with
+      unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter quarters
+      among them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their old
+      enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the flower
+      of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest, Arapooish,
+      the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous chief had
+      beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in his tribe, and
+      that it was declining in force, and must eventually be destroyed unless
+      some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its fortunes. In a pitched
+      battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his warriors, urging them to
+      set everything at hazard in one furious charge; which done, he led the way
+      into the thickest of the foe. He was soon separated from his men, and fell
+      covered with wounds, but his self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet
+      were defeated; and from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and
+      were frequently successful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that the
+      Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters came
+      galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy was at
+      hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed out in
+      squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the midst of a
+      plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage of numbers,
+      and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the Blackfeet were
+      slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of willows, where the
+      horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows vigorously.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
+      bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best
+      mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then
+      advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which the
+      tribe is noted. When within an arrow&rsquo;s flight of the thicket, he loosened
+      his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the opposite
+      side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe; in this
+      way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows from
+      under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle, he
+      wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions, who
+      received him with yells of applause.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet were
+      not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared to drive
+      desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt the thicket.
+      Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned all-glorious with the
+      scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts and triumphs, the
+      scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies, and all the other
+      fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves had finished with the
+      scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women and children, and made
+      the objects of new parades and dances. They were then treasured up as
+      invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves who had won them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through policy
+      or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The warrior
+      who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such case, the
+      war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down, and the
+      shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and abandoned to
+      the triumph and insults of the million.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape from the
+      extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be oppressive,
+      Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their camps, and there
+      formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a vigilant watch at
+      night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze during the day,
+      under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut up in strong pens,
+      built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during a portion of the
+      winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find but little
+      sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above the snow; but
+      they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender branches of the
+      trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the first moments of
+      freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in frisking and
+      gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work, to glean their
+      scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men stripped the bark
+      of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the poor horses would
+      return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air, the moment they saw
+      their owners approaching them with blankets filled with cotton-wood bark,
+      their whole demeanor underwent a change. A universal neighing and capering
+      took place; they would rush forward, smell to the blankets, paw the earth,
+      snort, whinny and prance round with head and tail erect, until the
+      blankets were opened, and the welcome provender spread before them. These
+      evidences of intelligence and gladness were frequently recounted by the
+      trappers as proving the sagacity of the animal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some
+      respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced
+      trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times of
+      peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the horses.
+      No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their notice,
+      and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said, will even
+      indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the danger
+      threatens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting up
+      the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse as a
+      sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him, and by his
+      starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of strangers. There
+      seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of fraternal sympathy
+      between the hunter and his horse. They mutually rely upon each other for
+      company and protection; and nothing is more difficult, it is said, than to
+      surprise an experienced hunter on the prairie while his old and favorite
+      steed is at his side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows, and
+      fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders discovered
+      his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a vigilant
+      watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who, at length,
+      seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the neighborhood. The
+      trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one night, after a day of
+      severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole camp was soon asleep.
+      Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers were roused by the
+      trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole party were
+      immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars were down;
+      but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being all found hard
+      by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through negligence. All
+      were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was a second alarm,
+      and it was discovered that several horses were missing. The rest were
+      mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that eighteen of the number
+      carried off were regained, and but three remained in possession of the
+      enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about the camp the preceding day. In
+      the morning it was discovered that a Blackfoot was entrapped by one of
+      them, but had succeeded in dragging it off. His trail was followed for a
+      long distance which he must have limped alone. At length he appeared to
+      have fallen in with some of his comrades, who had relieved him from his
+      painful encumbrance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These were the leading incidents of Montero&rsquo;s campaign in the Crow
+      country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough
+      hunters&rsquo; style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville
+      made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers to
+      open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue of his
+      men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not detail his
+      journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point to point of
+      the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier settlements on
+      the 22d of August.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken
+      for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged almost
+      to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during three years
+      of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous town, however,
+      produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample brim and longest
+      nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and pantaloons of the
+      most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn trapper&rsquo;s equipments;
+      and the happy wearers might be seen strolling about in all directions,
+      scattering their silver like sailors just from a cruise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
+      excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged
+      resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back to
+      the wilderness with regret. &ldquo;Though the prospect,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;of once more
+      tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and nights
+      under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its attractions;
+      yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in the stirring
+      excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in the wilderness, the
+      change was far from promising an increase of that contentment and inward
+      satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who, like myself, has roved
+      almost from boyhood among the children of the forest, and over the
+      unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western wastes, will not be
+      startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the fascinations of the world
+      on this civilized side of the mountains, I would fain make my bow to the
+      splendors and gayeties of the metropolis, and plunge again amidst the
+      hardships and perils of the wilderness.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
+      satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually
+      in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may
+      meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of
+      collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds
+      and their motley inhabitants.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild
+      inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have been
+      anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular state of
+      things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great changes, if not
+      entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has given life to all this
+      portraiture, is essentially evanescent. Rival parties of trappers soon
+      exhaust the streams, especially when competition renders them heedless and
+      wasteful of the beaver. The furbearing animals extinct, a complete change
+      will come over the scene; the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out
+      in wild array, and tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war
+      chief, plumed and painted and ever on the prowl; the traders&rsquo; cavalcade,
+      winding through defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party
+      lurking on its trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse
+      in the midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the
+      fierce skirmish among rocks and cliffs&mdash;all this romance of savage
+      life, which yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in
+      frontier story, and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed
+      among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite,
+      perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain of
+      mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either side,
+      are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which prevails
+      there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under the aridity
+      of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes. An immense belt
+      of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several hundred miles in width,
+      must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness, intervening between the
+      abodes of civilization, and affording a last refuge to the Indian. Here
+      roving tribes of hunters, living in tents or lodges, and following the
+      migrations of the game, may lead a life of savage independence, where
+      there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the white man. The amalgamation
+      of various tribes, and of white men of every nation, will in time produce
+      hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of the Caucasus. Possessed as they
+      are of immense droves of horses should they continue their present
+      predatory and warlike habits, they may in time become a scourge to the
+      civilized frontiers on either side of the mountains, as they are at
+      present a terror to the traveller and trader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of
+      establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders in
+      their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the outposts
+      into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid open, so as to
+      maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put an end to the
+      kind of &ldquo;blackmail,&rdquo; levied on all occasions by the savage &ldquo;chivalry of
+      the mountains.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Appendix
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western campaigning;
+      yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some particulars
+      concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth; anecdotes of whose
+      enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in the party-colored web of
+      our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of establishing a trading post
+      on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall. Here, for the first time, the
+      American flag was unfurled to the breeze that sweeps the great naked
+      wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving twelve men here, with a stock of
+      goods, to trade with the neighboring tribes, he prosecuted his journey to
+      the Columbia; where he established another post, called Fort Williams, on
+      Wappatoo Island, at the mouth of the Wallamut. This was to be the head
+      factory of his company; whence they were to carry on their fishing and
+      trapping operations, and their trade with the interior; and where they
+      were to receive and dispatch their annual ship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had observed
+      that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free trappers, as well
+      as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for their supplies upon
+      goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence of the expenses and
+      risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them at an immense advance
+      on first cost. He had an idea that they might be much more cheaply
+      supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost much less on the borders
+      of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the transportation by land was much
+      shorter; and through a country much more safe from the hostility of savage
+      tribes; which, on the route from and to St. Louis, annually cost the lives
+      of many men. On this idea, he grounded his plan. He combined the salmon
+      fishery with the fur trade. A fortified trading post was to be established
+      on the Columbia, to carry on a trade with the natives for salmon and
+      peltries, and to fish and trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship
+      was to come from the United States, to bring out goods for the interior
+      trade, and to take home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part
+      of the goods, thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to
+      supply the trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their
+      furs; which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in
+      the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The
+      profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses of
+      the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home, would
+      cost nothing as to freight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
+      perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met with,
+      prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to conceive,
+      and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had once more
+      reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria; and had he been
+      enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly effected, he might
+      have regained for his country the opulent trade of the Columbia, of which
+      our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be dispossessed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and
+      cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such as
+      all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea and
+      land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital to enable
+      him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold on until success
+      had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous experiments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled to
+      dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own
+      account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great
+      fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still
+      maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the Columbia
+      and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered powers
+      permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr. Astor, when
+      he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. From their
+      emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every direction, to
+      supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and to trap upon the
+      various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse the plains, penetrate
+      to the heart of the mountains, extend their enterprises northward, to the
+      Russian possessions, and southward, to the confines of California. Their
+      yearly supplies are received by sea, at Vancouver; and thence their furs
+      and peltries are shipped to London. They likewise maintain a considerable
+      commerce, in wheat and lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north,
+      with the Russian settlements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in
+      the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance;
+      yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight, and
+      subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish a monopoly
+      of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are adroitly
+      proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by securing all the
+      strong points of the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of the
+      main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept up as a
+      fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to shipping
+      have been taken possession of, and posts recently established at them by
+      the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great capital of this association; their long established system;
+      their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal
+      organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a
+      machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians, give
+      them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely the
+      latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until the
+      question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries. The
+      sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious to
+      national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and
+      every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the
+      Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country.
+      Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being
+      rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower
+      country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give
+      sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great
+      population of graziers and agriculturists.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which
+      the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here, the
+      company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its
+      superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is
+      about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The
+      climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while the
+      soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri lands.
+      The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated for a
+      great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for the
+      mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature, that
+      grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out to
+      pasture during the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future
+      settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the
+      embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present they
+      lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and trapper,
+      present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful agriculturists
+      and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem with waving
+      crops, or be covered with flocks and herds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company
+      restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the
+      hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would be
+      brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of Mr.
+      Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0053" id="link2H_4_0053">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr.
+      Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as to
+      the manner in which America has been peopled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese junk
+      was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen
+      Charlotte&rsquo;s Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced by
+      starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were
+      killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at Vancouver,
+      in 1834.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0054" id="link2H_4_0054">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Instructions to Captain Bonneville
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States.
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      Copy
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling you
+      to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the Rocky
+      Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and character
+      of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the trade which
+      might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the soil, the
+      productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate, the
+      Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts of the
+      Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the United
+      States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly considered,
+      and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has been
+      sanctioned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October
+      1833.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in reference
+      to your proposed expedition, it having originated with yourself, and all
+      that you required was the permission from the proper authority to
+      undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing yourself for the
+      expedition, provide suitable instruments, and especially the best Maps of
+      the interior to be found. It is desirable besides what is enumerated as
+      the object of enterprise that you note particularly the number of Warriors
+      that may belong to each tribe, or nation that you may meet with: their
+      alliances with other tribes and their relative position as to a state of
+      peace or war, and whether their friendly or warlike dispositions towards
+      each other are recent or of long standing. You will gratify us by
+      describing the manner of their making War, of the mode of subsisting
+      themselves during a state of war, and a state of peace, their Arms, and
+      the effect of them, whether they act on foot or on horse back, detailing
+      the discipline, and manuvers of the war parties, the power of their
+      horses, size and general discription; in short any information which you
+      may conceive would be useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of
+      every opportunity of informing us of your position and progress, and at
+      the expiration of your leave of absence will join your proper station.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      (Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 6em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
+Washington Irving
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
+       Digested From His Journal
+
+Author: Washington Irving
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2006 [EBook #1372]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE
+
+Digested from his journal
+
+by Washington Irving
+
+
+Originally published in 1837
+
+
+
+
+Introductory Notice
+
+
+WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria,
+it was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with
+the subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at
+the table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur
+trade in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various
+persons of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own
+great undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to
+the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia.
+
+Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain
+Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of
+enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the
+soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme
+of the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him
+may not be unacceptable.
+
+Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old
+emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his
+abode in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for
+the sordid struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy
+temperament, a festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that
+made him proof against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar;
+well acquainted with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics.
+His book was his elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire,
+Corneille, or Racine, or of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he
+forgot the world and all its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer
+weather, seated under one of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of
+St. Paul's church in Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by
+his side, his eyes riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul
+so engaged, as to lose all consciousness of the passing throng or the
+passing hour.
+
+Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his
+father's bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter
+was somewhat disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He
+was educated at our national Military Academy at West Point, where he
+acquitted himself very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which
+he has ever since continued.
+
+The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for
+a number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West.
+Here he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders,
+mountain trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so
+excited by their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their
+accounts of vast and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart,
+and an enterprise to explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his
+ambition.
+
+By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality.
+Having made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading
+enterprise beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave
+of absence, and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the
+major general in chief, on his offering to combine public utility with
+his private projects, and to collect statistical information for the War
+Department concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit
+in the course of his journeyings.
+
+Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the
+ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand
+dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom
+any thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which
+belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great
+focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any
+scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to
+meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been
+his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship
+for him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain;
+introduced him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little
+while an association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised
+to carry the proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient
+persons in this association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a
+youth, had accompanied one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to
+his commercial establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished
+himself by his activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr.
+Seton was one of the American youths who were at Astoria at the time
+of its surrender to the British, and who manifested such grief and
+indignation at seeing the flag of their country hauled down. The hope
+of seeing that flag once more planted on the shores of the Columbia, may
+have entered into his motives for engaging in the present enterprise.
+
+Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition
+into the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after
+year elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence
+expired, yet no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington.
+He was considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from
+the army list.
+
+It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob
+Astor, at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was
+then just returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the
+mountains, and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the
+hopes of being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn,
+his wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity
+and his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like
+Corporal Trim in his campaigns, he had "satisfied the sentiment,"
+and that was all. In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted
+soldier, and had inherited too much of his father's temperament, to make
+a scheming trapper, or a thrifty bargainer.
+
+There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that
+prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and
+well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service,
+gave him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open,
+and engaging; well browned by the sun, and had something of a French
+expression. He had a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he
+kept his hat on, the look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but
+the moment his head was uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a
+few more years than he was really entitled to.
+
+Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with
+the Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him
+a number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled
+modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of
+voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature
+of his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking
+personage before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related.
+
+In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of
+Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow
+adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered
+with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing
+at a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large
+barrack room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and
+war dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with
+pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting.
+In a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at
+court, by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his
+travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he
+sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of
+somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures
+of authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes.
+
+The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently
+put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before
+the world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the
+mountains, and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red
+men, among whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress
+of his character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his
+susceptibility to the grand and beautiful.
+
+That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have
+occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various
+sources, especially from the conversations and journals of some of the
+captain's contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes.
+I have also given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation,
+during an excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of
+civilization; as I before observed, however, the work is substantially
+the narrative of the worthy captain, and many of its most graphic
+passages are but little varied from his own language.
+
+I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his
+manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I
+found him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which,
+I believe, possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary
+documents of the kind, of being sincere, and being merited.
+
+To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor,
+whose anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants,
+have endeared him to the service as The Soldier's Friend; and whose
+general amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and
+unwearied benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The
+Friend of Man, this work is inscribed, etc.
+
+
+WASHINGTON IRVING
+
+
+
+
+1.
+
+     State of the fur trade of the--Rocky Mountains--American
+     enterprises--General--Ashley and his associates--Sublette, a
+     famous leader--Yearly rendezvous among the mountains--
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade--Bands of trappers--
+     Indian banditti--Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers--Traders
+     of the--Far West--Character and habits of the trapper
+
+IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr.
+John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade
+at the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that
+enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and
+of the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its
+dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have
+stated, likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government
+in neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the
+American flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate
+himself in the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the
+post was formally given up by the British government, though still
+occupied by the Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty
+in the country has been virtually lost to the United States; and it will
+cost both governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on
+that just and rightful footing on which they would readily have been
+placed had the proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now
+state a few particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader
+up to the period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for
+the circumstances of our narrative.
+
+In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr.
+Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further
+attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the
+Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country.
+They did not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat
+surreptitiously attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and
+their old rivals, the Hudson's Bay Company; which was carried on at
+great cost and sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It
+ended in the ruin of most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and
+the merging of the relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival
+association. From that time, the Hudson's Bay Company enjoyed a
+monopoly of the Indian trade from the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky
+Mountains, and for a considerable extent north and south. They removed
+their emporium from Astoria to Fort Vancouver, a strong post on the left
+bank of the Columbia River, about sixty miles from its mouth; whence
+they furnished their interior posts, and sent forth their brigades of
+trappers.
+
+The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United
+States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the
+great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra
+incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808,
+by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped
+upon the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships
+sustained by Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other
+intrepid Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains,
+appeared for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction.
+The American traders contented themselves with following up the head
+branches of the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams
+on the Atlantic side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those
+great snow-crowned sierras.
+
+One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General
+Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the
+prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West.
+In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post
+on the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year
+pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of
+the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name
+of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by
+others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of
+trapping organized beyond the mountains.
+
+It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and
+perseverance of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these
+early expeditions, and first broke their way through a wilderness where
+everything was calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse
+the most dreary and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes,
+uninhabited by man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel
+savages. They knew nothing of the country beyond the verge of their
+horizon, and had to gather information as they wandered. They beheld
+volcanic plains stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled
+up to the clouds, and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing
+of their defiles, nor how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They
+launched themselves in frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither
+their swift currents would carry them, or what rocks and shoals and
+rapids they might encounter in their course. They had to be continually
+on the alert, too, against the mountain tribes, who beset every
+defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or attacked them in their night
+encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of trappers that first entered
+into these regions, three-fifths are said to have fallen by the hands of
+savage foes.
+
+In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up,
+originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these
+we may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William
+Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of
+romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various
+modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold
+out his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded
+him was Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has
+become renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of
+game descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of
+Boon, having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian
+warfare, and killed in one of the contests of the "Bloody Ground." We
+shall frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to
+the credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert
+Campbell were prominent members.
+
+In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and
+excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once
+more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder
+of the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the
+company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown,
+who still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued
+between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and
+the trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great
+tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these
+formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory
+enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of
+adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers,
+who either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the
+service of one or other of the main companies.
+
+The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions,
+from the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish
+settlements of California, have been traversed and ransacked in every
+direction by bands of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is
+scarcely a mountain pass, or defile, that is not known and threaded in
+their restless migrations, nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by
+the lonely trapper.
+
+The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the
+mountains. Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that
+is to say, partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move
+about from place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic
+they wish to monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they
+employ in trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands,
+or "brigades" as they are termed, of trappers in various directions,
+assigning to each a portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground.
+In the months of June and July, when there is an interval between the
+hunting seasons, a general rendezvous is held, at some designated place
+in the mountains, where the affairs of the past year are settled by the
+resident partners, and the plans for the following year arranged.
+
+To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their
+widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their
+year's campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to
+traffic their peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort
+hither also, to sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their
+services for the next hunting season.
+
+To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from
+its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some
+experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the
+resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year's
+machinery in motion.
+
+Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are
+anxious to discover each other's plans and movements, they generally
+contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart.
+An eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of
+supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this
+purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic
+frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that
+can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition,
+scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the
+greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free
+trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able,
+also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to
+get the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the
+hunting and trapping grounds.
+
+A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping
+competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and
+outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of
+the Indian tribes; to cross each other's plans; to mislead each other as
+to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian
+trader is the disadvantage of his competitor.
+
+The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of
+the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their
+most profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man
+has opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no
+idea. The introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful
+hunters, but at the same time, more formidable foes; some of them,
+incorrigibly savage and warlike in their nature, have found the
+expeditions of the fur traders grand objects of profitable adventure.
+To waylay and harass a band of trappers with their pack-horses, when
+embarrassed in the rugged defiles of the mountains, has become as
+favorite an exploit with these Indians as the plunder of a caravan to
+the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet, who were such terrors
+in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria, still continue their
+predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to greater system. They
+know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to waylay them on
+their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons, and where to
+hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper, therefore,
+is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his weapons in his
+hands.
+
+A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system
+of things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the
+trade in furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the
+expeditions were carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or
+boatmen were the rank and file in the service of the trader, and even
+the hardy "men of the north," those great rufflers and game birds, were
+fain to be paddled from point to point of their migrations.
+
+A totally different class has now sprung up:--"the Mountaineers," the
+traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue
+their hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from
+place to place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in
+which they are engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast
+plains and mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities,
+seem to make them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial
+race than the fur traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting
+"men of the north." A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially
+different from a man who cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly,
+hardy, lithe, vigorous, and active; extravagant in word, and thought,
+and deed; heedless of hardship; daring of danger; prodigal of the
+present, and thoughtless of the future.
+
+A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and
+those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter,
+generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well
+sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within
+the reach of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is
+comparatively free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of
+the upper wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy,
+self-dependent and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by
+chance comes among them on his way to and from the settlements, he
+is like a game-cock among the common roosters of the poultry-yard.
+Accustomed to live in tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises
+the comforts and is impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If
+his meal is not ready in season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest
+or prairie, shoots his own game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast.
+With his horse and his rifle, he is independent of the world, and spurns
+at all its restraints. The very superintendents at the lower posts
+will not put him to mess with the common men, the hirelings of the
+establishment, but treat him as something superior.
+
+There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says
+Captain Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril,
+and excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the
+free trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the
+trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles
+a mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his
+path; in vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose
+his progress; let but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he
+forgets all dangers and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be
+seen with his traps on his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid
+streams, amidst floating blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be
+found with his traps swung on his back clambering the most rugged
+mountains, scaling or descending the most frightful precipices,
+searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse, and never before trodden
+by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to his comrades, and where
+he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the mountaineer, the hardy
+trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly sketched it, is the
+wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange and motley populace,
+now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur
+trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted
+with the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the
+introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their
+enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far
+West.
+
+
+
+
+2.
+
+     Departure from--Fort Osage--Modes of transportation--Pack-
+     horses--Wagons--Walker and Cerre; their characters--Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies--Wild equipments of
+     the trappers--Their gambols and antics--Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers--Agency
+     of the Kansas--General--Clarke--White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief--Night scene in a trader's camp--Colloquy between--
+     White Plume and the captain--Bee-hunters--Their
+     expeditions--Their feuds with the Indians--Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume
+
+
+IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his
+departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had
+enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been
+in the Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and
+trappers. Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western
+wilderness, abound with characters of the kind, ready for any
+expedition.
+
+The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions
+of the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville
+substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless
+wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open
+plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in
+every direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines
+cut through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is
+often necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for
+the wagons.
+
+In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville
+thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing
+the horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also
+would be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or
+being frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would
+be more easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case
+of attack in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen,
+or by four mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition,
+and provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party,
+which was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or
+lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr.
+J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee,
+about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit,
+though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on
+the frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where
+he went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated,
+he engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the
+Pawnees; then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as
+sheriff, trader, trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain
+Bonneville.
+
+Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe,
+in which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size,
+light complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was
+considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with
+Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats
+and summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies
+distressing; and before the annual assemblages of people connected
+with the fur trade should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting
+grounds.
+
+The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company
+and the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of
+rendezvous for the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre's
+Hole, a deep valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain
+Bonneville intended to shape his course.
+
+It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy
+captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters,
+trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his
+face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest
+spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat
+high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what
+then must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated
+by a residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region
+of romance!
+
+His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already
+experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a
+renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance
+and equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half
+savage. Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their
+garbs and accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in
+barbaric style, with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of
+adventurers on one of these expeditions is always animated and joyous.
+The welkin rang with their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the
+savages; and with boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they
+passed the straggling hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts
+of the frontier, they would startle their inmates by Indian yells and
+war-whoops, or regale them with grotesque feats of horsemanship,
+well suited to their half-savage appearance. Most of these abodes were
+inhabited by men who had themselves been in similar expeditions; they
+welcomed the travellers, therefore, as brother trappers, treated them
+with a hunter's hospitality, and cheered them with an honest God speed
+at parting.
+
+And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character
+and quality, between the two classes of trappers, the "American" and
+"French," as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant
+to designate the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the
+trapper of the old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others
+of the western States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter,
+softer, more self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife,
+his lodge, and his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes
+little heed of landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to
+think for the common weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed
+and lost.
+
+The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service
+of the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart
+of the mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark;
+can retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most
+perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can
+appal him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping
+the two kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the
+light fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what
+he calls the "shot-gun." We give these estimates on the authority of
+a trader of long experience, and a foreigner by birth. "I consider one
+American," said he, "equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity,
+aptness at resources, self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In
+fact, no one can cope with him as a stark tramper of the wilderness."
+
+Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville
+had enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting
+qualifications he placed great reliance.
+
+On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation,
+and bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The
+buoyant and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march
+gradually subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found
+the prairies saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain
+seasons of the year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank
+deep in the mire, the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed
+and rider were completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they
+reached the Kansas River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide,
+entering the Missouri from the south. Though fordable in almost every
+part at the end of summer and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to
+construct a raft for the transportation of the wagons and effects. All
+this was done in the course of the following day, and by evening, the
+whole party arrived at the agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under
+the superintendence of General Clarke, brother of the celebrated
+traveller of the same name, who, with Lewis, made the first expedition
+down the waters of the Columbia. He was living like a patriarch,
+surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all snugly housed, and provided
+with excellent farms. The functionary next in consequence to the
+agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and, indeed, indispensable
+personage in a frontier community. The Kansas resemble the Osages in
+features, dress, and language; they raise corn and hunt the buffalo,
+ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at the time of the
+captain's visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the Nebraska, or
+Platte River.
+
+The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among
+these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything
+minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of
+excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy
+with which their race is so often reproached.
+
+The personage who most attracted the captain's attention at this place
+was "White Plume," the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends.
+White Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited
+a large stone house, built for him by order of the American government:
+but the establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style.
+It might be palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between
+the stateliness of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the
+gallant White Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see
+in the gala equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy
+at Washington, who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and
+military coat, in contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging;
+being grand officer at top, and ragged Indian at bottom.
+
+White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased
+with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him
+a day's journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the
+margin of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by
+the captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square,
+at the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval
+there was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men
+cooked, ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre
+of the square, with a guard stationed over them at night.
+
+The horses were "side lined," as it is termed: that is to say, the fore
+and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as
+to be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for
+a time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to
+the restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his
+being easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that
+is "foot free" is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it
+were, a pivot, round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm.
+The encampment of which we are speaking presented a striking scene.
+The various mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing,
+sitting, and reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their
+weapons: while the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry
+story was going on. In the middle of the camp, before the principal
+lodge, sat the two chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in
+soldier-like communion, the captain delighted with the opportunity of
+meeting on social terms with one of the red warriors of the wilderness,
+the unsophisticated children of nature. The latter was squatted on his
+buffalo robe, his strong features and red skin glaring in the broad
+light of a blazing fire, while he recounted astounding tales of the
+bloody exploits of his tribe and himself in their wars with the Pawnees;
+for there are no old soldiers more given to long campaigning stories
+than Indian "braves."
+
+The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men;
+he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders
+for whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species
+of hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of
+the ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western
+frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the
+reader.
+
+The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a
+long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living
+on new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the
+harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three,
+and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and
+a number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into
+the wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south,
+without any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which
+strictly forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian
+tribes.
+
+The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the
+rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their
+hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich
+flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion,
+are migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well
+experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has
+passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred
+miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee
+go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is
+but recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or
+Platte; and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there
+about the same time.
+
+Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to
+make a wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches
+of forest on the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which
+they have detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any
+other bee hunter that should come upon their track. When they have
+marked sufficient to fill all their casks, they turn their faces
+homeward, cut down the trees as they proceed, and having loaded their
+wagon with honey and wax, return well pleased to the settlements.
+
+Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the
+white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its
+having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their
+lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them
+and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden
+with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the
+native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut
+to pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way
+they can, happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound
+rib-roasting.
+
+Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made
+the most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western
+part of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier,
+and whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas
+tribe. According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were
+pretty fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often
+treated them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the
+sweets.
+
+It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of
+having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity
+to the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He
+required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the
+worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his
+native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader.
+
+
+
+
+3.
+
+     Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills--Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River--Scanty fare--Buffalo
+     skulls--Wagons turned into boats--Herds of buffalo--Cliffs
+     resembling castles--The chimney--Scott's Bluffs Story
+     connected with them--The bighorn or ahsahta--Its nature and
+     habits--Difference between that and the "woolly sheep," or
+     goat of the mountains
+
+FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western
+course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered
+miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had
+to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw
+bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat;
+the thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning,
+early, but rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant
+breezes, however, which sweep these vast plains render the heats
+endurable. Game was scanty, and they had to eke out their scanty fare
+with wild roots and vegetables, such as the Indian potato, the wild
+onion, and the prairie tomato, and they met with quantities of "red
+root," from which the hunters make a very palatable beverage. The only
+human being that crossed their path was a Kansas warrior, returning from
+some solitary expedition of bravado or revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp
+as a trophy.
+
+The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route
+took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects.
+The vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical
+shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have
+their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to
+leave flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole
+country may originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills;
+but through some process of nature may have sunk to its present level;
+these insulated eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid
+rock.
+
+Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of
+Red River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of
+country, is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and
+position of grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by
+some subterranean agitation. "The resemblance," says he, "which these
+very remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious
+in the extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the
+pre-Adamites."
+
+On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or
+Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The
+low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain
+Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred
+yards from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the
+bottom full of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered
+with that species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up
+along the course of this river for several days, they were obliged,
+from the scarcity of game, to put themselves upon short allowance,
+and, occasionally, to kill a steer. They bore their daily labors and
+privations, however, with great good humor, taking their tone, in all
+probability, from the buoyant spirit of their leader. "If the weather
+was inclement," said the captain, "we watched the clouds, and hoped
+for a sight of the blue sky and the merry sun. If food was scanty,
+we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon falling in with herds of
+buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and eat." We doubt whether
+the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness of his own breast,
+which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him.
+
+There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always
+equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated
+with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical
+figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost
+innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in
+thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase.
+
+On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where
+it divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these
+branches rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the
+Arkansas. Up the course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well
+aware, lay the route to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the
+northern Mexican settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its
+sources might lie among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and
+foam down rugged defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction
+was in the true course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute
+his route to the Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from
+quicksands and other dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this
+neighborhood, he kept up along the south fork for two days, merely
+seeking a safe fording place. At length he encamped, caused the bodies
+of the wagons to be dislodged from the wheels, covered with buffalo
+hide, and besmeared with a compound of tallow and ashes; thus forming
+rude boats. In these, they ferried their effects across the stream,
+which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift and strong current. Three
+men were in each boat, to manage it; others waded across pushing the
+barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A march of nine miles
+took them over high rolling prairies to the north fork; their eyes being
+regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo at a distance, some
+careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in the natural meadows.
+
+Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by
+musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th,
+a small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of
+singing birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary
+of Missouri. After so many days of weary travelling through a naked,
+monotonous and silent country, it was delightful once more to hear
+the song of the bird, and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was
+a beautiful sunset, and a sight of the glowing rays, mantling the
+tree-tops and rustling branches, gladdened every heart. They pitched
+their camp in the grove, kindled their fires, partook merrily of their
+rude fare, and resigned themselves to the sweetest sleep they had
+enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies.
+
+The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the
+river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and
+wind their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary
+passes they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom
+they supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara
+or Crow Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at
+night, and to keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged
+and elevated regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a
+species larger than the ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and
+mountainous countries. They had reached also a great buffalo range;
+Captain Bonneville ascended a high bluff, commanding an extensive view
+of the surrounding plains. As far as his eye could reach, the country
+seemed absolutely blackened by innumerable herds. No language, he says,
+could convey an adequate idea of the vast living mass thus presented to
+his eye. He remarked that the bulls and cows generally congregated in
+separate herds.
+
+Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which
+is among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The
+lower part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the
+summit shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet
+in height, from which it derives its name. The height of the whole,
+according to Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards.
+It is composed of indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white
+sandstone, and may be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles.
+
+On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated
+clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches,
+and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to
+persuade one's self that the works of art were not mingled with these
+fantastic freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott's
+Bluffs, from a melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party
+were descending the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail
+barks were overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being
+thus rendered useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting
+and had to depend upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After
+suffering extremely from hunger, they arrived at Laramie's Fork, a small
+tributary of the north branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above
+the cliffs just mentioned. Here one of the party, by the name of Scott,
+was taken ill; and his companions came to a halt, until he should
+recover health and strength sufficient to proceed. While they were
+searching round in quest of edible roots, they discovered a fresh trail
+of white men, who had evidently but recently preceded them. What was to
+be done? By a forced march they might overtake this party, and thus be
+able to reach the settlements in safety. Should they linger, they might
+all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott, however, was incapable of
+moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward, and dreaded that such
+a clog would prevent their coming up with the advance party. They
+determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate. Accordingly, under
+presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be efficacious in
+his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the trail.
+They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest, but
+concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had died
+of disease.
+
+On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in
+company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning
+skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for
+the remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where
+they had abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had
+crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries.
+The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave
+have ever since borne his name.
+
+Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first
+time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents
+these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such
+scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from
+crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains,
+under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower
+than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice,
+so high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems
+a pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations,
+doubtless from a feeling of security.
+
+This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often
+confounded with another animal, the "woolly sheep," found more to the
+northward, about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise
+inhabits cliffs in summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter.
+It has white wool, like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long
+hair; but it has short legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its
+horns are about five inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as
+jet, and beautifully polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This
+animal is by no means so active as the bighorn; it does not bound much,
+but sits a good deal upon its haunches. It is not so plentiful either;
+rarely more than two or three are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives
+a resemblance to the sheep; it is more properly of the flesh is said to
+have a musty flavor; some have thought the fleece might be valuable, as
+it is said to be as fine as that of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to
+be procured in sufficient quantities.
+
+The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a
+deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep,
+and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it
+more sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in
+the Rocky Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude,
+quite down to California; generally in the highest regions capable of
+vegetation; sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least
+alarm, regains its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous,
+if not impossible for the hunter to follow.
+
+
+
+
+4.
+
+     An alarm--Crow--Indians--Their appearance--Mode of approach
+     --Their vengeful errand--Their curiosity--Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet--Loving conduct of the Crows--
+     Laramie's Fork--First navigation of the--Nebraska--Great
+     elevation of the country--Rarity of the atmosphere--Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons--Black Hills--Their wild
+     and broken scenery--Indian dogs--Crow trophies--Sterile and
+     dreary country--Banks of the Sweet Water--Buffalo hunting--
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook
+
+WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best
+hunters in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look
+out for game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying
+up the banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving
+their caps, and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians!
+
+The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and
+announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the
+river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the
+most roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains;
+horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of
+sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for
+action, and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him
+in the general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency.
+
+Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his
+little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld
+the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty
+of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and
+mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They
+came prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous
+evolutions, for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their
+bright colors, and flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring
+and sparkling in the morning sunshine, gave them really a striking
+appearance.
+
+Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and
+ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct
+hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a
+furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left,
+and wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling
+like maniacs.
+
+This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching
+the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the
+pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship.
+The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship.
+
+The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their
+village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already
+been five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were
+determined not to return home until they had sated their revenge.
+
+A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the
+country at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of
+Captain Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished
+at the long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the
+sight of a cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them
+to be some kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they
+carried back to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He
+had, in consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold
+the wonders described to him. "Now that we have met you," said he to
+Captain Bonneville, "and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our
+hearts are glad." In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by
+these people as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen
+by them before, and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but
+the calf was the peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it
+with intense interest as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and
+were struck with the mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect
+docility.
+
+After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must
+be the "great medicine" of the white party; an appellation given by the
+Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded
+as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture,
+however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse;
+their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they
+declined the bargain.
+
+At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together,
+and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was
+well pleased with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the
+"unsophisticated sons of nature," who had so long been objects of his
+poetic speculations; and indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one
+of the most notorious of the mountains. The chief, of course, had
+his scalps to show and his battles to recount. The Blackfoot is the
+hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom hostility is like a cherished
+principle of religion; for every tribe, besides its casual
+antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can be no permanent
+reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole, are enemies
+worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first water. As
+their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they often come
+in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to keep
+their wits awake and their passions alive.
+
+The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious
+character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that
+they were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was
+friendly in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their
+attentions, and had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It
+was not until after separation on the following morning that the captain
+and his men ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the
+course of their fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the
+pockets of their white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their
+coats, and, above all, to make free with their hunting knives.
+
+By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain
+Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47' north. The thermometer,
+at six o'clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two
+o'clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o'clock in the
+evening, at seventy degrees.
+
+The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance,
+printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and
+threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers.
+
+On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie's Fork, a clear
+and beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an
+average width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows
+abounding in currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and
+clumps of trees.
+
+By an observation of Jupiter's satellites, with a Dolland reflecting
+telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57'
+west of Greenwich.
+
+We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three
+years after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell,
+formerly of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte
+from this fork, in skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been
+discredited, that the river was navigable. About the same time, he built
+a fort or trading post at Laramie's Fork, which he named Fort William,
+after his friend and partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the
+Platte has become a highway for the fur traders.
+
+For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the
+great elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the
+effect of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons.
+The wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually
+working out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props
+to prevent their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one
+of those great steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity
+of the atmosphere renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these
+regions there is a fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is
+scanty and short, and parches up in the course of the summer, so that
+there is none for the hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a
+common observation that "above the forks of the Platte the grass does
+not burn." All attempts at agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood
+of Fort William have been attended with very little success. The grain
+and vegetables raised there have been scanty in quantity and poor in
+quality. The great elevation of these plains, and the dryness of the
+atmosphere, will tend to retain these immense regions in a state of
+pristine wildness.
+
+In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and
+broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their
+journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines
+incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the
+day was spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up
+ravines, forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging
+them with ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of
+their horses were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and
+stony roads. The travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief
+storms, which would come hurrying over the hills, or through the
+mountain defiles, rage with great fury for a short time, and then pass
+off, leaving everything calm and serene again.
+
+For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs,
+prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large
+pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail--altogether,
+they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors
+would keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the
+first stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they
+reached some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep
+a sharp and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers
+were fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving
+hangers-on would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the
+half-picked bones, the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having
+made a hasty meal, with many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow
+leisurely on the trail of the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax
+or catch them, but in vain. Their quick and suspicious eyes caught
+the slightest sinister movement, and they turned and scampered off. At
+length one was taken. He was terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled
+as if expecting instant death. Soothed, however, by caresses, he began
+after a time to gather confidence and wag his tail, and at length was
+brought to follow close at the heels of his captors, still, however,
+darting around furtive and suspicious glances, and evincing a
+disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm.
+
+On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path.
+They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne
+scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards,
+to appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had
+been revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant
+rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means
+disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages,
+and above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They
+remarked one precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to
+protect their hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had
+to pass, they had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide.
+
+The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the
+Nebraska or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced
+to the margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits.
+One of these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a
+range of low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore
+traces of some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto
+the various strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the
+southwest, but here everything appeared to have been subverted, and
+thrown out of place. In many places there were heavy beds of white
+sandstone resting upon red. Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags
+and cliffs; and sometimes formed perpendicular walls and overhanging
+precipices. An air of sterility prevailed over these savage wastes. The
+valleys were destitute of herbage, and scantily clothed with a stunted
+species of wormwood, generally known among traders and trappers by the
+name of sage. From an elevated point of their march through this region,
+the travellers caught a beautiful view of the Powder River Mountains
+away to the north, stretching along the very verge of the horizon, and
+seeming, from the snow with which they were mantled, to be a chain of
+small white clouds, connecting sky and earth.
+
+Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even
+sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow
+were to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the
+travellers were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole
+region.
+
+The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to
+a much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains
+below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current.
+The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides
+rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks;
+then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes
+impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and
+rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley.
+
+On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the
+Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and
+making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time
+over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the
+Sweet Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five
+feet deep, flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one
+of the forks or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now
+shaped their course for several successive days, tending, generally, to
+the west. The soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified.
+Frequently the plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock,
+sometimes in the shape of a half globe, and from three to four hundred
+feet high. These singular masses had occasionally a very imposing, and
+even sublime appearance, rising from the midst of a savage and lonely
+landscape.
+
+As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more
+sensible of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more
+generally capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics,
+sore lips and mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons
+also shrank so much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept
+from falling to pieces. The country bordering upon the river was
+frequently gashed with deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to
+avoid which, the travellers were obliged to make wide circuits through
+the plains. In the course of these, they came upon immense herds of
+buffalo, which kept scouring off in the van, like a retreating army.
+
+Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who
+officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel
+situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he
+had suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of
+the camp. Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his
+station; and the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their
+exploits, inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity
+of their order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting
+opportunity for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march,
+all prepared for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung
+at the pommel of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his
+shoulder. While in this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in
+great alarm. In an instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on
+foot. Finding they were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and
+pulled [the] trigger. His shot produced no other effect than to increase
+the speed of the buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his
+heels, and scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after
+him, hallooing with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman
+soon disappeared among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville,
+who was at the head of the line, and had seen the transaction at a
+distance, detached a party in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they
+returned, leading the frightened horse; but though they had scoured the
+country, and looked out and shouted from every height, they had seen
+nothing of his rider.
+
+As Captain Bonneville knew Tom's utter awkwardness and inexperience,
+and the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he
+halted and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt
+for him in the morning.
+
+At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every
+direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its
+course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters
+returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him
+in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused
+shouts of merriment in the camp,--but Tom for once could not join in
+the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and
+apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life.
+
+
+
+
+5.
+
+     Magnificent scenery--Wind River--Mountains--Treasury of
+     waters--A stray horse--An Indian trail--Trout streams--The
+     Great Green River Valley--An alarm--A band of trappers--
+     Fontenelle, his information--Sufferings of thirst--
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee--Strategy of rival traders--
+     Fortification of the camp--The--Blackfeet--Banditti of the
+     mountains--Their character and habits
+
+IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight
+of the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains.
+He had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along
+the river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent
+prospect burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River
+Mountains, with their bleached and snowy summits towering into the
+clouds. These stretched far to the north-northwest, until they melted
+away into what appeared to be faint clouds, but which the experienced
+eyes of the veteran hunters of the party recognized for the rugged
+mountains of the Yellowstone; at the feet of which extended the wild
+Crow country: a perilous, though profitable region for the trapper.
+
+To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness,
+with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This,
+however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or
+Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering
+tribe of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the
+enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous
+scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him.
+We can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have
+contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great
+fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of
+those mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles
+of varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of
+the Atlantic and the Pacific.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the
+whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form,
+as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length,
+and from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with
+eternal snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and
+rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid
+streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of
+the Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give
+rise to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the
+West, that empties its current into the Gulf of California.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters' and trappers'
+stories: their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their
+neighborhood, having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the
+mountains, and scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It
+was to the west of these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee
+Agie, or Green River, that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt
+for the purpose of giving repose to his people and his horses after
+their weary journeying; and of collecting information as to his future
+course. This Green River valley, and its immediate neighborhood, as
+we have already observed, formed the main point of rendezvous, for
+the present year, of the rival fur companies, and the motley populace,
+civilized and savage, connected with them. Several days of rugged
+travel, however, yet remained for the captain and his men before they
+should encamp in this desired resting-place.
+
+On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of
+the meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little
+distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself
+quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of
+the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal;
+lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity.
+After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party,
+which had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The
+horse was accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more
+vigilant watch than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his
+former owners should be upon the prowl.
+
+The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of
+July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets,
+and the thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the
+atmosphere continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the
+wheels were incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length
+devised. The tire of each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed
+round the exterior of the felloes, the tire was then made red hot,
+replaced round the wheel, and suddenly cooled with water. By this means,
+the whole was bound together with great compactness.
+
+The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the
+feet of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their
+peaks, which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above
+the level of the sea.
+
+On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and
+keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most
+southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march
+of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running
+to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout.
+
+The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they
+had reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on
+the western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken.
+The stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be
+tributary to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed
+at some distance to the south.
+
+Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the
+crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in
+being the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled
+provinces of Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the
+Pacific, with wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously,
+reached the valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the
+mountains; but had proceeded with them no further.
+
+A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one
+side by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of
+high hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter
+in his company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same
+informant would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet
+deep, which he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was
+convinced, however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so
+wide a valley and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an
+early hour, on its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day
+to reach the main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the
+distant range of western hills.
+
+On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making
+directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at
+as brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About
+eleven o'clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the
+rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given;
+they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured
+that the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the
+neighborhood of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some
+secret fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on
+the open plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations
+were immediately made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to
+reconnoitre. They soon came galloping back, making signals that all was
+well. The cloud of dust was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted
+trappers, belonging to the American Fur Company, who soon came up,
+leading their pack-horses. They were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an
+experienced leader, or "partisan," as a chief of a party is called in
+the technical language of the trappers.
+
+Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from
+the company's trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous,
+with reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties
+beyond the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with
+a band of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen
+upon the trail of Captain Bonneville's party, just after leaving the
+Nebraska; and, finding that they had frightened off all the game, had
+been obliged to push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men
+and horses were, therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to
+halt; the plain before them he said was destitute of grass and water,
+neither of which would be met with short of the Green River, which was
+yet at a considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party
+were all on horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by
+nightfall: but he doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville's
+arrival there with his wagons before the day following. Having imparted
+this information, he pushed forward with all speed.
+
+Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit.
+The ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued
+to move rapidly. After a long and harassing day's march, without pausing
+for a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o'clock at night,
+to encamp in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the
+following morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to
+slake their thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse
+grass, here and there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a
+great part of this Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the
+rain cannot penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In
+some places it produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the
+streams; but the wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It
+was not until noon that Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the
+Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of the West; in the meantime, the sufferings
+of both men and horses had been excessive, and it was with almost
+frantic eagerness that they hurried to allay their burning thirst in the
+limpid current of the river.
+
+Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had
+managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up
+by the exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were
+obliged to pass the night upon the road.
+
+On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across
+the river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance
+below, where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant
+pasturage. Here the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take
+their rest: the weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in
+flesh and spirit; but this last march across the thirsty plain had
+nearly finished them.
+
+The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the
+fur trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with
+Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of
+Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them
+four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was
+somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had
+calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the
+rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his
+competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free
+trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to
+endeavor to bring them to his camp.
+
+As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that
+both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it
+was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his
+camp with breastworks of logs and pickets.
+
+These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the
+bands of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood.
+These savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the
+inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order,
+always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the
+tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain
+horses, and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a
+family, and entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils.
+The veteran warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the
+consequence which success gives them among their people.
+
+They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short,
+stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis.
+When on a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk
+through the country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and
+ravines, and use more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode
+of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the
+night time. If they succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with
+headlong fury: if the enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear,
+they become wary and deliberate in their movements.
+
+Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the
+greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of
+the Hudson's Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the
+American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries
+for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond
+of spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready
+to exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and
+daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking
+hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by
+Mr. Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition
+across the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged
+constantly to keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men.
+
+Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes:
+such as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros
+Ventres of the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the
+Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further
+north.
+
+The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent
+at the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
+which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who
+keep about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white
+men.
+
+This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and
+numbers about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or
+three years they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the
+Arapahoes of the Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow
+country, and the Black Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces,
+Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state
+of hostility with all these tribes, their expeditions are prone to be
+conducted in the most lawless and predatory style; nor do they hesitate
+to extend their maraudings to any party of white men they meet with;
+following their trails; hovering about their camps; waylaying and
+dogging the caravans of the free traders, and murdering the solitary
+trapper. The consequences are frequent and desperate fights between them
+and the "mountaineers," in the wild defiles and fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains.
+
+The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one
+of their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter
+we shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers,
+which had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville
+among the mountains.
+
+
+
+
+6.
+
+     Sublette and his band--Robert--Campbell--Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of "down-easters"--Yankee enterprise--Fitzpatrick--His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet--A rendezvous of mountaineers--
+     The battle of--Pierre's Hole--An Indian ambuscade--
+     Sublette's return
+
+LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified
+camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies
+from St. Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre's Hole. This
+party consisted of sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of
+packhorses. They were commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner
+in the company, and one of the most active, intrepid, and renowned
+leaders in this half military kind of service. He was accompanied by
+his associate in business, and tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert
+Campbell, one of the pioneers of the trade beyond the mountains, who had
+commanded trapping parties there in times of the greatest peril.
+
+As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell
+in with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This
+was a party of regular "down-easters," that is to say, people of New
+England, who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their
+race, were now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with
+which they were totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and
+was maintained and commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This
+gentleman had conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon
+might be established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur
+trade. He had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he
+supposed, for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men
+in his employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of
+the wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the
+continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same
+way that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch
+forth on a voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific.
+
+With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and
+his men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the
+frontier, and found that the wilderness required experience and
+habitudes of which they were totally deficient. Not one of the party,
+excepting the leader, had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they
+were without guide or interpreter, and totally unacquainted with "wood
+craft" and the modes of making their way among savage hordes, and
+subsisting themselves during long marches over wild mountains and barren
+plains.
+
+In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed,
+or rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence,
+in Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled
+amicably together; the frontier men of Sublette's party gave their
+Yankee comrades some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art
+and mystery of dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without
+accident at the upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River.
+
+In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the
+company who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came
+down from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole to meet them and hurry them
+forward. He travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet
+Water; then taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the
+other as a pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre's Hole, to make
+arrangements against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting
+campaign before the rival company.
+
+Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the
+passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green
+River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to
+a halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the
+rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and
+setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once
+his mistake and his peril--they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his
+fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for
+the mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous
+defiles. Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone
+off, when he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his
+remaining horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For
+several days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost
+famished, having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept
+for self-defence.
+
+In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller,
+Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green
+River valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at
+hand. They had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which
+came down from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band
+of Indians burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and
+a discharge of guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than
+wounding one mule, and causing several horses to break loose from their
+pickets. The camp was instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with
+yells of exultation, carrying off several of the horses under cover of
+the night.
+
+This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some
+of Wyeth's band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New
+England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette's men,
+who were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued
+their march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their
+flanks, and arrived without further molestation at Pierre's Hole.
+
+The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous,
+was for Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been
+received concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest
+he should have fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made
+the midnight attack upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy,
+therefore, when he made his appearance, conducted by two half-breed
+Iroquois hunters. He had lurked for several days among the mountains,
+until almost starved; at length he escaped the vigilance of his enemies
+in the night, and was so fortunate as to meet the two Iroquois hunters,
+who, being on horseback, conveyed him without further difficulty to
+the rendezvous. He arrived there so emaciated that he could scarcely be
+recognized.
+
+The valley called Pierre's Hole is about thirty miles in length and
+fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken
+ridges, and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the
+three Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country.
+
+A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through
+the valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The
+meadows on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and
+cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be
+nearly impassable.
+
+In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the
+fur trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments,
+with their retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and
+half-breeds, assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly
+supplies, and their orders to start off in new directions. Here, also,
+the savage tribes connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish
+Indians, and Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and
+with their squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There
+was, moreover, a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant
+leader from Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little
+apart from the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage,
+amounting to several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in
+tents and lodges in the several camps.
+
+The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur
+Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened,
+and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement
+and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their
+several destinations.
+
+On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by
+Milton Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of
+proceeding to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his
+fifteen free trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver
+hunters and salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this
+opportunity to prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied
+with such experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about
+eight miles to the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the
+valley of Pierre's Hole. On the following morning, just as they were
+raising their camp, they observed a long line of people pouring down a
+defile of the mountains. They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle
+and his party, whose arrival had been daily expected. Wyeth, however,
+reconnoitred them with a spy-glass, and soon perceived they were
+Indians. They were divided into two parties, forming, in the whole,
+about one hundred and fifty persons, men, women, and children. Some were
+on horseback, fantastically painted and arrayed, with scarlet blankets
+fluttering in the wind. The greater part, however, were on foot. They
+had perceived the trappers before they were themselves discovered, and
+came down yelling and whooping into the plain. On nearer approach, they
+were ascertained to be Blackfeet.
+
+One of the trappers of Sublette's brigade, a half-breed named Antoine
+Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference.
+He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by
+the Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears
+his name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose
+once powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with
+the Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful
+hostility against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came
+to a halt. One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the
+pipe of peace. This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the
+Flathead were predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a
+treacherous movement.
+
+"Is your piece charged?" said Antoine to his red companion.
+
+"It is."
+
+"Then cock it, and follow me."
+
+They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in
+friendship. Antoine grasped it.
+
+"Fire!" cried he.
+
+The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the
+ground. Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly
+ornamented, and galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the
+bullets of the enemy whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw
+themselves into the edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood
+trees, interwoven with vines. Here they began to fortify themselves;
+the women digging a trench, and throwing up a breastwork of logs
+and branches, deep hid in the bosom of the wood, while the warriors
+skirmished at the edge to keep the trappers at bay.
+
+The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up
+a scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of "downeasters,"
+they were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the
+wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use
+of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as
+a skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them;
+then, making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to
+remain in garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself,
+he mingled with the other leaders, determined to take his share in the
+conflict.
+
+In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for
+reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at
+their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his
+cap, and giving the alarm; "Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper
+part of the valley!--to arms! to arms!"
+
+The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one
+turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined.
+As fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was
+soon alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed.
+
+Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St.
+Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared
+for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and
+arming themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses
+and dashed forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their
+wills in soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be
+disposed of in case of his death, and appointing the other his executor.
+
+The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all
+the foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the
+whole valley suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field
+of action. They withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from
+sight in the dark and tangled wood. Most of their women and children
+had retreated to the mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and
+approached the swamp, firing into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet
+had a better sight at their adversaries, who were in the open field, and
+a half-breed was wounded in the shoulder.
+
+When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm
+the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place,
+and the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The
+very Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as
+almost impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to
+be turned from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp.
+Campbell stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous
+wood, Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he
+fell, Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done,
+he grasped his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell.
+Sinclair, the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with
+his brother and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the
+two friends, he pressed forward to share their dangers.
+
+The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming
+up a stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all
+overgrown with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that
+it was impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in
+peril had to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting
+the branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they
+should attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by
+turns, each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then
+hallooing to their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered
+the swamp, and followed a little distance in their rear.
+
+They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of
+the rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as
+we have said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and
+the leathern covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The
+movements of the leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried
+by the sharp-sighted enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was
+putting some branches aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on
+the spot. "Take me to my brother," said he to Campbell. The latter gave
+him in charge to some of the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp.
+
+Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he
+perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle
+was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye.
+While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him
+the hole; "Watch that place," said he, "and you will soon have a fair
+chance for a shot." Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck
+him in the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought
+was to take hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and
+down. He ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken.
+The next moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took
+him in his arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that
+struck Sublette wounded another man in the head.
+
+A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered
+occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in
+searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number
+of Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others
+did the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place,
+which occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian
+was shot down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had
+been sped from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort.
+
+The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much
+increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were
+completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however,
+making no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork
+was kept up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in
+bravado, would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a
+buffalo robe or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his
+comrades. Most of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in
+the first part of the attack.
+
+At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws
+belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This
+however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the
+robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure
+would fall into their hands.
+
+The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other.
+During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief
+was heard.
+
+"So long," said he, "as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the
+open field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our
+women and children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes,
+and you who are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There
+are four hundred lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be
+here--their arms are strong--their hearts are big--they will avenge us!"
+
+This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole
+interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was
+made to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking
+the encampment at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for
+hurrying to the defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep
+watch upon the fort; the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came
+on, the trappers drew out of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of
+the wood. By morning, their companions returned from the rendezvous with
+the report that all was safe. As the day opened, they ventured within
+the swamp and approached the fort. All was silent. They advanced up to
+it without opposition. They entered: it had been abandoned in the night,
+and the Blackfeet had effected their retreat, carrying off their wounded
+on litters made of branches, leaving bloody traces on the herbage. The
+bodies of ten Indians were found within the fort; among them the one
+shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet afterward reported that they
+had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle. Thirty-two horses were
+likewise found killed; among them were some of those recently carried
+off from Sublette's party, in the night; which showed that these were
+the very savages that had attacked him. They proved to be an advance
+party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon the trail of
+Sublette's party. Five white men and one halfbreed were killed, and
+several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and six
+wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In the
+course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood; but
+his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was
+proof against powder and ball.
+
+A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning
+after the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were
+approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of
+noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at
+her lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was
+dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either
+she was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud
+spirit kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on
+discovering her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled
+body fell upon the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have
+heard this anecdote discredited by one of the leaders who had been in
+the battle: but the fact may have taken place without his seeing it, and
+been concealed from him. It is an instance of female devotion, even to
+the death, which we are well disposed to believe and to record.
+
+After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the
+free trappers, and Wyeth's New England band, remained some days at the
+rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an
+attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves
+in motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain
+Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on
+his return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from
+the trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his
+departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of
+this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of
+the followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and
+savage warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization.
+He and six others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred
+K. Stephens, of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel
+Boon, set out together, in advance of Sublette's party, thinking they
+would make their way through the mountains.
+
+It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven
+companions were making their way through Jackson's Hole, a valley not
+far from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party
+of Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The
+horse of the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with
+affright, and threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up
+the side of the hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his
+presence of mind, and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank,
+until the Blackfeet came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had
+fled on the first alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing
+his danger, paused when they got half way up the hill, turned back,
+dismounted, and hastened to his assistance. Foy was instantly killed.
+Stephens was severely wounded, but escaped, to die five days afterward.
+The survivors returned to the camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings
+of this new disaster. That hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the
+journey, set out on his return to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As
+they had a number of pack-horses richly laden with peltries to convoy,
+they chose a different route through the mountains, out of the way, as
+they hoped, of the lurking bands of Blackfeet. They succeeded in making
+the frontier in safety. We remember to have seen them with their band,
+about two or three months afterward, passing through a skirt of woodland
+in the upper part of Missouri. Their long cavalcade stretched in single
+file for nearly half a mile. Sublette still wore his arm in a sling.
+The mountaineers in their rude hunting dresses, armed with rifles
+and roughly mounted, and leading their pack-horses down a hill of the
+forest, looked like banditti returning with plunder. On the top of some
+of the packs were perched several half-breed children, perfect little
+imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf locks. These, I was
+told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love from their squaw
+spouses in the wilderness.
+
+
+
+
+7.
+
+     Retreat of the Blackfeet--Fontenelle's camp in danger--
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet--Free trappers--Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses--Game fellows
+     of the mountains--Their visit to the camp--Good fellowship
+     and good cheer--A carouse--A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation
+
+THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from
+their wild fastness in Pierre's Hole, fell back into the valley of the
+Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their
+band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy
+and exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives
+and children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive
+enterprise of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their
+wanderings they came in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who
+had moved some distance up Green River valley in search of the free
+trappers, they put up tremendous war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if
+to attack it. Second thoughts caused them to moderate their fury. They
+recollected the severe lesson just received, and could not but remark
+the strength of Fontenelle's position; which had been chosen with great
+judgment.
+
+A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of
+which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however,
+knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care
+to inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might
+know there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference
+ended, Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen
+of the Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic]
+at that time two Crow Indians in the captain's camp, who had recently
+arrived there. They looked with dismay at this deputation from their
+implacable enemies, and gave the captain a terrible character of them,
+assuring him that the best thing he could possibly do, was to put those
+Blackfeet deputies to death on the spot. The captain, however, who had
+heard nothing of the conflict at Pierre's Hole, declined all compliance
+with this sage counsel. He treated the grim warriors with his usual
+urbanity. They passed some little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that
+everything was conducted with military skill and vigilance; and that
+such an enemy was not to be easily surprised, nor to be molested with
+impunity, and then departed, to report all that they had seen to their
+comrades.
+
+The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the
+band of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to
+his camp, had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August
+those worthies made their appearance.
+
+To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary
+to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur
+companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons,
+horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound
+to do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as
+hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard;
+and, in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired
+trappers.
+
+The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them,
+we shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them
+by Captain Bonneville. "They come and go," says he, "when and where they
+please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and
+trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries
+to the highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they
+attach themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they
+come under some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules
+for trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such
+general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the
+camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they
+are bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who
+commands the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer
+seeking a market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from
+thirty to forty dollars for the whole hunt."
+
+There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come
+to these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and
+are furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound
+to exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without
+skinning, they render in at the trader's lodge, where a stipulated price
+for each is placed to their credit. These though generally included in
+the generic name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin
+trappers.
+
+The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages
+have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so
+than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them
+to discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to
+adopt the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian.
+You cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade
+him you have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the
+counterfeit is complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length,
+is carefully combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over
+his shoulders, or plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or
+parti-colored ribands. A hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes,
+or of ornamented leather, falls to his knee; below which, curiously
+fashioned legging, ornamented with strings, fringes, and a profusion of
+hawks' bells, reach to a costly pair of moccasons of the finest Indian
+fabric, richly embroidered with beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some
+other bright color, hangs from his shoulders, and is girt around his
+waist with a red sash, in which he bestows his pistols, knife, and the
+stem of his Indian pipe; preparations either for peace or war. His gun
+is lavishly decorated with brass tacks and vermilion, and provided with
+a fringed cover, occasionally of buckskin, ornamented here and there
+with a feather. His horse, the noble minister to the pride, pleasure,
+and profit of the mountaineer, is selected for his speed and spirit,
+and prancing gait, and holds a place in his estimation second only to
+himself. He shares largely of his bounty, and of his pride and pomp of
+trapping. He is caparisoned in the most dashing and fantastic style; the
+bridles and crupper are weightily embossed with beads and cockades; and
+head, mane, and tail, are interwoven with abundance of eagles' plumes,
+which flutter in the wind. To complete this grotesque equipment, the
+proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted with vermilion, or with white
+clay, whichever presents the most glaring contrast to his real color.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of
+the wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly
+characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their
+fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and
+long flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed
+blankets, and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them
+so much the air and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to
+persuade one's self that they were white men, and had been brought up in
+civilized life.
+
+Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these
+cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and
+ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in
+the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow
+in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they
+would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast,
+and swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the
+free trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain's
+band; mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard,
+or pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the
+veterans of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the
+hour, with prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of
+the wonders he had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his
+adventurous peregrinations among the mountains.
+
+In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp
+of Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new
+acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept
+their word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became
+"hail fellow well met" with Captain Bonneville's men; treat after treat
+succeeded, until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather
+confounded, by liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free
+trappers were no longer suffered to have all the swagger to themselves.
+The camp bullies and prime trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and
+to brag, in turn, of their perils and achievements. Each now tried
+to out-boast and out-talk the other; a quarrel ensued as a matter
+of course, and a general fight, according to frontier usage. The two
+factions drew out their forces for a pitched battle. They fell to work
+and belabored each other with might and main; kicks and cuffs and dry
+blows were as well bestowed as they were well merited, until, having
+fought to their hearts' content, and been drubbed into a familiar
+acquaintance with each other's prowess and good qualities, they ended
+the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could have been rendered
+by a year's peaceable companionship.
+
+While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and
+characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for
+the time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to
+collect from them information concerning the different parts of the
+country about which they had been accustomed to range; the characters
+of the tribes, and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He
+also succeeded in securing the services of several to guide and aid him
+in his peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during
+the ensuing season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable
+recruits, he felt in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware
+Indians, decoyed from him by Mr Fontenelle.
+
+
+
+
+8.
+
+     Plans for the winter--Salmon River--Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains--New arrangements--Caches--Cerre's
+     detachment--Movements in--Fontenelle's camp--Departure of
+     the--Blackfeet--Their fortunes--Wind--Mountain streams--
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear--Bones of
+     murdered travellers--Visit to Pierre's Hole--Traces of the
+     battle--Nez--Perce--Indians--Arrival at--Salmon River
+
+THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain
+Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green
+River valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the
+depth of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in
+the neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far
+more eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither
+the captain resolved to bend his course.
+
+The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia;
+and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to
+the northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense
+shoals of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October.
+The salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo
+on the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man,
+that come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs
+find their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along
+the fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of
+the mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a
+sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great
+rivers, and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest
+tributory streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to
+penetrate even among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in
+the desert places of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the
+animals of the chase, and where, but for these periodical supplies, it
+would be impossible for man to subsist.
+
+The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the
+ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run
+up the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against
+impetuous streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and
+weak, and great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their
+backs. As the season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are
+flung in myriads on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to
+banquet on them. Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks
+as to taint the atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet
+long.
+
+Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the
+winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel
+rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods
+and supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present
+purposes, or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided,
+therefore, by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits,
+during the night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in
+these deposited the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All
+traces of the caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common
+expedient with the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no
+established posts and magazines, they make these caches or deposits at
+certain points, whither they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is
+an expedient derived from the wandering tribes of Indians.
+
+Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for
+a long scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one
+cavalcade, and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name
+of Matthieu. He was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to
+Bear River; a stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where
+there was good pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was
+expected he would meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly
+migrations, with whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After
+he had traded with these people, finished his trapping, and recruited
+the strength of the horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin
+Captain Bonneville, who intended to fix his quarters there for the
+winter.
+
+While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain
+Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of
+Fontenelle. One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived,
+in all haste, from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole, in quest of the
+supplies. The competition between the two rival companies was just now
+at its height, and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident
+partners, Fitzpatrick and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company,
+by Vanderburgh and Dripps. The latter were ignorant of the mountain
+regions, but trusted to make up by vigilance and activity for their want
+of knowledge of the country.
+
+Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of
+competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the
+two companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different
+directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to
+get first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown,
+were effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had
+enabled the various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start
+off to their respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his
+associate, Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for
+a prime beaver country to the north-northwest.
+
+This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to
+meet Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he
+immediately furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the
+head of the free trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed,
+determined to follow hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of
+the adventures of these parties among the mountains, and the disastrous
+effects of their competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a
+future chapter.
+
+Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his
+errand, struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone.
+Captain Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green
+River valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the
+Blackfeet band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however,
+had been dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties
+of white men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this
+part of the country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and
+bending their course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them.
+Their route lay through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows.
+In the Wind River valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were
+encountered by a powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put
+to rout. Forty of them were killed, many of their women and children
+captured, and the scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they
+were completely chased out of the Crow country.
+
+On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out
+on his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three
+to a mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal
+and one on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and
+eighty to two hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers' style of
+loading pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting
+the packs, which were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was
+necessary to keep a rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days'
+experience, however, brought them into proper training.
+
+Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the
+right by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little
+lakes and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured
+forth the tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing
+down gullies and ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from
+inaccessible clefts and rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and
+pellucid currents across the valley, to throw themselves into the main
+river. So transparent were these waters that the trout with which they
+abounded could be seen gliding about as if in the air; and their pebbly
+beds were distinctly visible at the depth of many feet. This beautiful
+and diaphanous quality of the Rocky Mountain streams prevails for a long
+time after they have mingled their waters and swollen into important
+rivers.
+
+Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued
+to the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky
+defiles, extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters
+was a Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was
+Buckeye. He had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping
+with the grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in
+the left arm, he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded
+bear, and attack him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was
+willing to brave the animal when in full force and fury. He had twice
+an opportunity of proving his prowess, in the course of this mountain
+journey, and was each time successful. His mode was to seat himself
+upon the ground, with his rifle cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus
+prepared, he would await the approach of the bear with perfect coolness,
+nor pull trigger until he was close at hand. In each instance, he laid
+the monster dead upon the spot.
+
+A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought
+Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson's Hole, where poor
+More and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The
+feelings of the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these
+unfortunate young men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to
+be decently interred.
+
+On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which
+commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre's Hole; whence he
+could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and
+forests of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant
+mountains, of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a
+sleeping ocean below.
+
+After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley,
+and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the
+remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and
+strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late
+populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers' camps and
+Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage
+of trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all
+dispersed to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had
+relapsed into its pristine solitude and silence.
+
+That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he
+resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards
+of two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses
+suffering excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the
+19th of September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River.
+
+The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The
+night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left
+the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his
+custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become
+bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the
+following morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered
+the earth to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately
+encamped, and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search
+Buckeye was discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the
+rear, waiting the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they
+had passed, the snow having covered their trail.
+
+On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but
+had not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country
+in the advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and
+crying Indians! Indians!
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared
+for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great
+numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly,
+making signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or
+Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation
+was returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him.
+They halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as
+important with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This
+done, they arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the
+van, the braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and
+topped off with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting
+and singing, firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields.
+The two parties encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a
+hunting expedition, but had been almost famished on their march. They
+had no provisions left but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white
+men equally in want, they generously offered to share even this meager
+pittance, and frequently repeated the offer, with an earnestness that
+left no doubt of their sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of
+Captain Bonneville, and produced the most cordial good will on the part
+of his men. For two days that the parties remained in company, the most
+amicable intercourse prevailed, and they parted the best of friends.
+Captain Bonneville detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader,
+to accompany the Nez Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade
+with them for meat for the winter's supply. After this, he proceeded
+down the river, about five miles below the forks, when he came to a halt
+on the 26th of September, to establish his winter quarters.
+
+
+
+
+9.
+
+     Horses turned loose--Preparations for winter quarters--
+     Hungry times--Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies--Captain Bonneville's
+     conversations with them--Their love of gambling
+
+IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a
+course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under
+which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling
+upon the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings.
+Indeed, so exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle
+were no longer capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary
+fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure
+and comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and
+huts were built for the reception of the merchandise.
+
+This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty
+men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the
+rest were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different
+directions, to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow
+should become too deep.
+
+Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in
+this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo
+range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the
+neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the
+garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they
+brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now
+and then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an
+antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with
+roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates
+of the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having
+wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the
+8th of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez
+Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their
+situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set
+they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor
+anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of
+certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any
+weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor
+fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their
+hard fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical
+stoicism, they at least made them acquainted with the edible properties
+of roots and wild rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their
+own store. The necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that
+Captain Bonneville determined to dispatch a party to the Horse
+Prairie, a plain to the north of his cantonment, to procure a supply of
+provisions. When the men were about to depart, he proposed to the Nez
+Perces that they, or some of them, should join the hunting-party. To
+his surprise, they promptly declined. He inquired the reason for their
+refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as starving a situation as his
+own people. They replied that it was a sacred day with them, and the
+Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it to hunting. They
+offered, however, to accompany the party if it would delay its departure
+until the following day; but this the pinching demands of hunger would
+not permit, and the detachment proceeded.
+
+A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that
+they were about to hunt. "What!" exclaimed he, "without guns or arrows;
+and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?" They smiled
+among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they
+performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a
+few short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the
+blessings of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed,
+leaving the whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by
+this lesson of faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being.
+"Accustomed," adds Captain Bonneville, "as I had heretofore been, to
+find the wretched Indian revelling in blood, and stained by every vice
+which can degrade human nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which
+I had witnessed. Wonder at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where
+it was least to have been sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame
+and confusion, at receiving such pure and wholesome instructions from
+creatures so far below us in the arts and comforts of life." The simple
+prayers of the poor Indians were not unheard. In the course of four or
+five days they returned, laden with meat. Captain Bonneville was curious
+to know how they had attained such success with such scanty means. They
+gave him to understand that they had chased the buffalo at full speed,
+until they tired them down, when they easily dispatched them with the
+spear, and made use of the same weapon to flay the carcasses. To carry
+through their lessons to their Christian friends, the poor savages were
+as charitable as they had been pious, and generously shared with them
+the spoils of their hunting, giving them food enough to last for several
+days.
+
+A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain
+Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional
+feeling. "Simply to call these people religious," says he, "would convey
+but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades
+their whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of
+purpose, and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most
+uniform and remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of
+saints than a horde of savages."
+
+In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from
+the doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had
+imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries
+and traders who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of
+the fasts and festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its
+ceremonials. These have become blended with their own wild rites, and
+present a strange medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men,
+women, and children array themselves in their best style, and assemble
+round a pole erected at the head of the camp. Here they go through a
+wild fantastic ceremonial; strongly resembling the religious dance of
+the Shaking Quakers; but from its enthusiasm, much more striking and
+impressive. During the intervals of the ceremony, the principal chiefs,
+who officiate as priests, instruct them in their duties, and exhort them
+to virtue and good deeds.
+
+"There is something antique and patriarchal," observes Captain
+Bonneville, "in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there
+is in many of their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued
+with religion."
+
+The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by
+this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness.
+He exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and
+well-disposed people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle
+and humanizing precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them
+acquainted with the leading points of its history; and it speaks highly
+for the purity and benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed
+happiness from the task.
+
+"Many a time," says he, "was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled
+with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other,
+until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the
+wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No
+other subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the
+attention; and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory,
+or are so pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours
+of intercourse with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the
+desert."
+
+The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people,
+appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an
+eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble
+before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain
+absorbed in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn
+of the following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer.
+Bets increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater,
+until in the course of a single night's gambling, the richest chief may
+become the poorest varlet in the camp.
+
+
+
+
+10.
+
+     Black feet in the Horse Prairie--Search after the hunters--
+     Difficulties and dangers--A card party in the wilderness--
+     The card party interrupted--"Old Sledge" a losing game--
+     Visitors to the camp--Iroquois hunters--Hanging-eared
+     Indians
+
+ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived
+at Captain Bonneville's encampment. They were on their way homeward,
+but had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the
+mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse
+Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke
+of a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a
+war party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they
+generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these
+horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings.
+
+This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville
+for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the
+Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and
+declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen
+from that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain
+Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that
+direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found;
+but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh
+famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful
+of food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the
+mountain. After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but
+merely wounded him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill
+and dale, with the eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more
+lucky shot brought him to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged
+his knife into his throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking
+his blood: A fire was instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two
+hunters cooked, and ate again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they
+sank to sleep before their hunting fire. On the following morning they
+rose early, made another hearty meal, then loading themselves with
+buffalo meat, set out on their return to the camp, to report the
+fruitlessness of their mission.
+
+At length, after six weeks' absence, the hunters made their appearance,
+and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been
+felt on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie,
+but, while busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken
+Flatheads, who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at
+hand. The hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground,
+and accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr.
+Cerre, and the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the
+hunting party of the Nez Perces.
+
+After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the
+Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of
+Mr. Cerre's men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived
+without accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not
+far from his quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord,
+which they supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days
+afterward Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at
+the cantonment.
+
+Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty
+hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise
+his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his
+encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary
+of their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on
+these prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves
+with a social game of cards called "old sledge," which is as popular
+among these trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite
+circles of the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly
+roused by a discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on
+their feet, and snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their
+horses and mules already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon
+the camp unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old
+sledge. The Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored
+to urge them off under a galling fire that did some execution. The
+mules, however, confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new
+riders kicked up their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of
+their horsemanship. This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored
+to protect their unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the
+whites; but, after a scene of "confusion worse confounded," horses and
+mules were abandoned, and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes.
+Here they quickly scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in
+which they prostrated themselves, and while thus screened from the shots
+of the white men, were enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows
+and fusees, as to repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat.
+This adventure threw a temporary stigma upon the game of "old sledge."
+
+In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow
+from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment.
+They were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves
+useful in a variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate
+woodsmen. They were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that
+came from Canada into these mountain regions many years previously,
+in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company. They were led by a brave
+chieftain, named Pierre, who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and
+gave his name to the fated valley of Pierre's Hole. This branch of the
+Iroquois tribe has ever since remained among these mountains, at mortal
+enmity with the Blackfeet, and have lost many of their prime hunters in
+their feuds with that ferocious race. Some of them fell in with
+General Ashley, in the course of one of his gallant excursions into the
+wilderness, and have continued ever since in the employ of the company.
+
+Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville
+was a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These
+Indians have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez
+Perces. They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and
+possess great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn,
+they hunt the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry's
+Fork of the Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River.
+Their winter quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon
+roots and dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson's Bay Company
+have established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the
+Flatheads bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and
+trinkets.
+
+This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings
+of natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like
+that of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep
+reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of
+their fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific
+doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased
+with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore,
+from all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their
+policy, they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare;
+especially with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting
+expeditions, they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles.
+Their conduct as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can
+never be driven to abandon their hunting grounds.
+
+Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power
+and efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some
+of their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth 'scapes, like
+the old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre's Hole, are believed
+to wear a charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings
+marvelous anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed
+by their fellow savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white
+hunters.
+
+
+
+
+11.
+
+     Rival trapping parties--Manoeuvring--A desperate game--
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet--Deserted camp fire--A dark
+     defile--An Indian ambush--A fierce melee--Fatal
+     consequences--Fitzpatrick and Bridger--Trappers precautions
+     --Meeting with the Blackfeet--More fighting--Anecdote of a
+     young--Mexican and an Indian girl.
+
+WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez
+Perces, on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those
+doughty rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who
+started off for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest.
+
+Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already
+shown, having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped
+to have the first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and
+Dripps, however, the two resident partners of the opposite company, by
+extraordinary exertions were enabled soon to put themselves upon their
+traces, and pressed forward with such speed as to overtake them just
+as they had reached the heart of the beaver country. In fact, being
+ignorant of the best trapping grounds, it was their object to follow on,
+and profit by the superior knowledge of the other party.
+
+Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being
+dogged by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer
+to divide the country with them. They tried in every way to blind and
+baffle them; to steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent;
+but all in vain. Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for
+his ignorance of the country; was always wary, always on the alert;
+discovered every movement of his rivals, however secret and was not to
+be eluded or misled.
+
+Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the
+others persisted in following them, they determined to give them an
+unprofitable chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than
+share the products with their rivals. They accordingly took up their
+line of march down the course of the Missouri, keeping the main
+Blackfoot trail, and tramping doggedly forward, without stopping to set
+a single trap. The others beat the hoof after them for some time, but
+by degrees began to perceive that they were on a wild-goose chase, and
+getting into a country perfectly barren to the trapper. They now came
+to a halt, and be-thought themselves how to make up for lost time, and
+improve the remainder of the season. It was thought best to divide their
+forces and try different trapping grounds. While Dripps went in one
+direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty men, proceeded in another.
+The latter, in his headlong march had got into the very heart of the
+Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been unconscious of his danger. As
+his scouts were out one day, they came upon the traces of a recent band
+of savages. There were the deserted fires still smoking, surrounded
+by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It was evident a party
+of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting camp, and had
+retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts hastened back to
+the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He made light of the
+alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to reconnoitre for
+himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they had represented
+it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly dismembered; there
+were the smouldering fires, still sending up their wreaths of smoke;
+everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and gave reason to
+believe that the savages were still lurking in the neighborhood. With
+heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their trail, to trace them
+to their place of concealment: It led him over prairies, and through
+skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and dangerous ravine.
+Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by his little
+band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between steep banks
+overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only broken by the
+tramp of their own horses.
+
+Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the
+sharp report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their
+concealments, yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten
+the horses. Vanderburgh's horse fell, mortally wounded by the first
+discharge. In his fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called
+in vain upon his men to assist in extricating him. One was shot down
+scalped a few paces distant; most of the others were severely wounded,
+and sought their safety in flight. The savages approached to dispatch
+the unfortunate leader, as he lay struggling beneath his horse.. He
+had still his rifle in his hand and his pistols in his belt. The first
+savage that advanced received the contents of the rifle in his breast,
+and fell dead upon the spot; but before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol,
+a blow from a tomahawk laid him prostrate, and he was dispatched by
+repeated wounds.
+
+Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and
+worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing
+and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular
+among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness.
+
+Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp,
+and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The
+party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and
+made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains
+of their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the
+encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a
+reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could
+be found.
+
+In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company,
+fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to
+mislead them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region
+infested with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch
+for them; but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be
+surprised at night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the
+evening advanced, the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a
+guard was stationed round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of
+the leaders would mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about
+half a mile; then look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether
+there had been any lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would
+reconnoitre every ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush.
+This done, he would gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the
+same scrutiny. Finding all things safe, the horses would be turned loose
+to graze, but always under the eye of a guard.
+
+A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any
+defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always
+kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the
+flanks.
+
+At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open
+field, but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary
+distance, but made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way,
+but likewise kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing
+the pipe of peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and
+they formed a group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was
+circulated from hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An
+instance of natural affection took place at this pacific meeting.
+Among the free trappers in the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited
+young Mexican named Loretto, who, in the course of his wanderings, had
+ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl from a band of Crows by whom she had
+been captured. He made her his wife, after the Indian style, and she had
+followed his fortunes ever since, with the most devoted affection.
+
+Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she
+recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward
+and threw herself upon her brother's neck, who clasped his long-lost
+sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible
+with the reputed stoicism of the savage.
+
+While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of
+trappers and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle
+resting across the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet
+stepped forward to meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust
+Bridger cocked his rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in
+friendship. The quick ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in
+a twinkling he grasped the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the
+contents were discharged into the earth at his feet. His next movement
+was to wrest the weapon from the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to
+the earth. He might have found this no easy task had not the unfortunate
+leader received two arrows in his back during the struggle.
+
+The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his
+band. A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks,
+the rocks and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular
+firing was kept up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl
+had been hurried off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She
+would have returned, through the dangers of the fight, to her husband
+and her child, but was prevented by her brother. The young Mexican
+saw her struggles and her agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a
+generous impulse he caught up the child in his arms, rushed forward,
+regardless of Indian shaft or rifle, and placed it in safety upon her
+bosom. Even the savage heart of the Blackfoot chief was reached by this
+noble deed. He pronounced Loretto a madman for his temerity, but bade
+him depart in peace. The young Mexican hesitated; he urged to have his
+wife restored to him, but her brother interfered, and the countenance of
+the chief grew dark. The girl, he said, belonged to his tribe-she must
+remain with her people. Loretto would still have lingered, but his wife
+implored him to depart, lest his life should be endangered. It was with
+the greatest reluctance that he returned to his companions.
+
+The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse
+parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We
+cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre's Hole the
+affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment
+when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither
+instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different
+persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in
+their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual
+among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves
+sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial,
+by any hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of
+faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white
+men have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have,
+in consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted.
+
+A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian
+bride. A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young
+Mexican settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and
+obtained his discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin
+his wife and child among her people; and we understand that, at the time
+we are writing these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of
+late by the American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts
+as an interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him.
+
+
+
+
+12.
+
+     A winter camp in the wilderness--Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians--Scarcity of game--New arrangements in
+     the camp--Detachments sent to a distance--Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped--Sickness among the Indians--
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces--The Captain's effort
+     as a pacificator--A Nez-Perce's argument in favor of war--
+     Robberies, by the Black feet--Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces--A hunter's Elysium among the mountains--More
+     robberies--The Captain preaches up a crusade--The effect
+     upon his hearers.
+
+FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville
+remained in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full
+enjoyment of his wishes; leading a hunter's life in the heart of the
+wilderness, with all its wild populace around him. Beside his own
+people, motley in character and costume--creole, Kentuckian, Indian,
+half-breed, hired trapper, and free trapper--he was surrounded by
+encampments of Nez Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses
+covering the hills and plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling
+scene. The hunting parties of white men and red men, continually
+sallying forth and returning; the groups at the various encampments,
+some cooking, some working, some amusing themselves at different games;
+the neighing of horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of
+the axe, the sharp report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the
+frequent burst of laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused
+from perfect silence and loneliness by this transient hunters' sojourn,
+realized, he says, the idea of a "populous solitude."
+
+The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its
+influence on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together.
+The most perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says,
+were friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous
+degree in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were
+somewhat importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in
+the way, examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching
+every movement of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great
+good-humor by the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed,
+throughout all his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor
+Indians, and his conduct toward them is above all praise.
+
+The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves
+upon the number of their horses, of which they possess more in
+proportion than any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo
+range. Many of the Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain
+Bonneville possess from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are
+stout, well-built ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the
+severest hardship and fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those
+obtained from the whites while sufficiently young to become acclimated
+and inured to the rough service of the mountains.
+
+By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its
+inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians
+consumed the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to
+any distant pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and
+deadly enemies, would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast.
+Game, too, began to grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out
+of the vicinity, and though the Indians made a wide circuit through
+the mountains in the hope of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment,
+their expedition was unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party
+could not subsist themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the
+winter. Captain Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements.
+He detached fifty men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and
+to trap about its waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the
+month of July at Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed
+upon as the general rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year.
+
+Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of
+free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and
+Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass.
+Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments
+and set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained
+behind for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which
+to deposit everything not required for current use. Thus lightened
+of all superfluous encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to
+rejoin his Indian allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of
+the country, at the head of a small stream. Considering themselves
+out of all danger in this sequestered spot from their old enemies, the
+Blackfeet, their encampment manifested the most negligent security.
+Their lodges were scattered in every direction, and their horses covered
+every hill for a great distance round, grazing upon the upland bunch
+grass which grew in great abundance, and though dry, retained its
+nutritious properties instead of losing them like other grasses in the
+autumn.
+
+When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a
+dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care
+is taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and
+objects of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one
+foot at night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain
+until broad daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already
+ranging over the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses
+to some eligible spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young
+Indian repairs occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to
+see that all is well. So accustomed are the horses to this management,
+that they keep together in the pasture where they have been left. As
+the sun sinks behind the hills, they may be seen moving from all points
+toward the camp, where they surrender themselves to be tied up for the
+night. Even in situations of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over
+their camp at night, intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant
+and well-trained dogs.
+
+In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which
+Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions
+with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at
+nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at
+perfect liberty, until the morning.
+
+One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was
+to procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however,
+extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty
+that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use
+of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for
+their equipment.
+
+In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November
+to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from
+thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but
+it generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades
+of new grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December,
+however, the thermometer fell to seven degrees.
+
+The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in
+Green River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by
+a leader of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses,
+to sojourn about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to
+rejoin him at his winter camp on Salmon River.
+
+More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his
+appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain
+Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he
+would have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning
+him; for his route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads
+itself out like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be
+descried at a great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded
+no further than the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were
+lame; but it was evident they had feared to venture, with so small a
+force, into these exposed and dangerous regions.
+
+A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now
+appeared among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an
+illness of three or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician,
+prescribing profuse sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with
+success, if the patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In
+extraordinary cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own
+doctors or conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but
+with little benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in
+graves, after the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the
+direction of the head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this
+malady made such ravages among the natives, not a single white man had
+the slightest symptom of it.
+
+A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and
+Flathead Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable
+and inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them,
+and conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly
+feud between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably
+the sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and
+urged that they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific
+conference, offering to send two of his men to the enemy's camp with
+pipe, tobacco and flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting.
+
+The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two
+days' duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long
+talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length
+they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain's proposition, and
+upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge.
+
+"War," said the chiefs, "is a bloody business, and full of evil; but
+it keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the
+young men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we
+see a trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we
+know it is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds
+no alarm; the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men
+are sleek and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and
+their little babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a
+lie, and his tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he
+comes to us as a brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees
+us weak, and off our guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such
+peace; let there be war!"
+
+With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since
+the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in
+a state of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted
+vigilance which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He
+represented to them the impossibility that two such considerable clans
+could move about the country without leaving trails by which they might
+be traced. Besides, among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces,
+who had been taken prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors,
+and trained up and imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had
+lost all sympathies with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead
+the enemy to their secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep
+upon the alert, and never to remit their vigilance while within the
+range of so crafty and cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon
+his easy and simple-minded hearers. A careless indifference reigned
+throughout their encampments, and their horses were permitted to range
+the hills at night in perfect freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own
+horses brought in at night, and properly picketed and guarded. The
+evil he apprehended soon took place. In a single night a swoop was made
+through the neighboring pastures by the Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the
+finest horses carried off. A whip and a rope were left in a conspicuous
+situation by the robbers, as a taunt to the simpletons they had
+unhorsed.
+
+Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire
+through the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses
+remained safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an
+outbreak of warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit
+of the marauders; but no such thing--they contented themselves with
+searching diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as
+had escaped the hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to
+their loss with the most exemplary quiescence.
+
+Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit
+to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit
+the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance.
+To these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of
+begging and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback.
+
+Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was
+necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten
+ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian
+friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their
+cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united
+force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were
+infested by bands of Blackfeet.
+
+They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented
+as a perfect hunter's elysium. It was on the right branch, or head
+stream of the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there
+was no danger from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter.
+Here, they said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be
+seen trooping upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it,
+also, herds of buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger.
+Thither they proposed to move their camp.
+
+The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the
+Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land.
+Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved
+forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the
+late malady.
+
+Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered
+a deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much
+valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three
+days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of
+his free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible,
+before the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened
+away by the various Indian hunting parties.
+
+While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the
+Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be
+upon their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent
+loss, were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some
+secluded spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any
+guard upon them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one
+were carried off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the
+first, and no effort was made either to recover the horses, or to take
+vengeance on the thieves.
+
+The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their
+remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and
+fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that
+this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and
+persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should,
+therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night
+over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from
+their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was
+over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but
+the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be
+roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers.
+
+The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band
+that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such
+pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being
+now picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated
+in the early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here
+they went about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at
+home, quietly cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges
+of their sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than
+the rest, approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were
+gambling with the most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time,
+muffled up in his robe, peering over the shoulders of the players,
+watching the changes of their countenances and the fluctuations of
+the game. So completely engrossed were they, that the presence of this
+muffled eaves-dropper was unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he
+retired undiscovered.
+
+Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off,
+the Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently
+round the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty,
+took their route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged
+from the camp they were silently taken possession of, until, having
+secured about thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered
+off. The clatter of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They
+gave the alarm, which soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still
+all was quiescent; no marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds
+and dashing off in pursuit, no talk of retribution for their repeated
+outrages. The patience of Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He
+had played the part of a pacificator without success; he now altered his
+tone, and resolved, if possible, to rouse their war spirit.
+
+Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven
+policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures
+that would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if
+not inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party
+should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow
+them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and
+not to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he
+recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to
+the extent of the losses sustained. "Unless you rouse yourselves from
+your apathy," said he, "and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will
+cease to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws
+and children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their
+warriors reserve themselves for nobler antagonists."
+
+This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the
+hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was
+bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given
+them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true,
+but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez
+Perces, without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose
+men, who were not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an
+increased watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind.
+He disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other
+chiefs concurred in his opinion.
+
+Captain Bonneville again took up the point. "It is true," said he, "the
+Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has
+also given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something
+speedily to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say
+farewell. As yet I have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions
+which you have slighted; but my property is too unsafe here; my turn
+will come next; I and my people will share the contempt you are bringing
+upon yourselves, and will be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings,
+who may at any time be plundered with impunity."
+
+The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of
+the Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in
+pursuit of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account
+of the Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came
+lagging back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down
+horses, which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient
+speed. This effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the
+wounded pride of the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual
+state of passive indifference.
+
+
+
+
+13.
+
+     Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.
+
+IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the
+spirit of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp
+to whom they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado,
+named Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of
+the same tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted
+into the tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race,
+and loathed the peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The
+hunting of the deer, the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of
+their ambition, was too tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature.
+His heart burned for the foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper,
+and all the haps and hazards of roving and predatory warfare.
+
+The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly
+prowls and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and
+a flutter, like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping
+and screaming in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain
+Bonneville to rouse the war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them
+to retaliation, was ardently seconded by Kosato. For several days he
+was incessantly devising schemes of vengeance, and endeavoring to set
+on foot an expedition that should carry dismay and desolation into the
+Blackfeet town. All his art was exerted to touch upon those springs
+of human action with which he was most familiar. He drew the listening
+savages round him by his nervous eloquence; taunted them with recitals
+of past wrongs and insults; drew glowing pictures of triumphs and
+trophies within their reach; recounted tales of daring and romantic
+enterprise, of secret marchings, covert lurkings, midnight surprisals,
+sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings; together with the triumphant
+return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the victors. These wild tales
+were intermingled with the beating of the drum, the yell, the war-whoop
+and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor. All, however, were
+lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a Nez Perce was to be
+roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In the bitterness
+of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap which had
+severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to take
+refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire.
+
+The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain
+Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted
+his tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility.
+Kosato told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep,
+strong passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics.
+
+"You see my wife," said he, "she is good; she is beautiful--I love her.
+Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of
+my chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked
+together; we laughed together; we were always seeking each other's
+society; but we were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous,
+and commanded her to speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward
+her; his jealousy grew more furious. He beat her without cause and
+without mercy; and threatened to kill her outright if she even looked at
+me. Do you want traces of his fury? Look at that scar! His rage against
+me was no less persecuting. War parties of the Crows were hovering
+round us; our young men had seen their trail. All hearts were roused for
+action; my horses were before my lodge. Suddenly the chief came, took
+them to his own pickets, and called them his own. What could I do? he
+was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was burning. I joined no
+longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast. What had I to do
+there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself, and thought of
+nothing but these wrongs and outrages.
+
+"I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where
+the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing
+among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a
+time over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I
+loved had endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and
+my teeth were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief
+walking among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk's; my
+blood boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an
+instant I was on my feet; my hand was on my knife--I flew rather than
+ran--before he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him
+dead at my feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over
+the place; then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and
+urged her to fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded
+her of the wrongs I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had
+endured from the deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I
+again urged her to fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My
+heart was heavy, but my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. ''Tis well,'
+said I; 'Kosato will go alone to the desert. None will be with him but
+the wild beasts of the desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his
+trail. They may come upon him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but
+you will be safe. Kosato will go alone.'
+
+"I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. 'No,'
+she cried, 'Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go--he
+shall never part from me.'
+
+"We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and
+stealing quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we
+encountered. Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They
+received us with welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They
+are good and kind; they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of
+women."
+
+Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville.
+It is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements
+from tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and
+heroines of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and
+lasting feuds.
+
+
+
+
+14.
+
+     The party enters the mountain gorge--A wild fastness among
+     hills--Mountain mutton--Peace and plenty--The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding--A free trapper's wife--Her gala
+     equipments--Christmas in the wilderness.
+
+ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians
+raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork
+of Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so
+temptingly described by the Indians.
+
+Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand
+or coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive
+limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter
+cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow
+breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding
+heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills
+afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses.
+
+As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of
+the mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so
+narrow, rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid
+retreat, and to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore,
+refrained from venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better
+chance, when they should once more emerge into the open country.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the
+advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large
+flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be
+seen bounding among the precipices. These simple animals were easily
+circumvented and destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill
+as many as they please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the
+flesh of those which were young and fat was extolled as superior to the
+finest mutton.
+
+Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm.
+Past ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the
+story, the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away,
+and plenty and security reigned throughout the camp.
+
+Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony,
+in civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness.
+Filled with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers
+began to repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the
+force of that great law of nature, "it is not meet for man to live
+alone."
+
+After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the
+Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his
+bosom.
+
+"I want," said he, "a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a
+young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and
+finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share
+my lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of
+my lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness."
+Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and
+procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the
+search. At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and
+informed him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of
+the afternoon. He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached,
+leading the bride, a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian
+finery. Her father, mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by
+the score, all followed on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and
+important relative.
+
+The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper
+solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the
+great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs,
+then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the
+bride, from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth
+of the whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most
+profound and becoming silence.
+
+After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn
+ceremonial, the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable
+length the duties of a wife which, among Indians, are little less
+onerous than those of the pack-horse; this done, he turned to her
+friends and congratulated them upon the great alliance she had made.
+They showed a due sense of their good fortune, especially when the
+nuptial presents came to be distributed among the chiefs and relatives,
+amounting to about one hundred and eighty dollars. The company soon
+retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed that he had no green
+girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once assumed the style and
+dignity of a trapper's wife: taking possession of the lodge as her
+undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her own taste and
+habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy terms with the
+trapper as if they had been man and wife for years.
+
+We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as
+furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion
+picture, his description of a free trapper's wife, that the reader
+may have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in
+question had invoked to solace him in the wilderness.
+
+"The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse;
+but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony
+occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of
+ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still
+more fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses.
+
+"No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her
+notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the
+purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the
+utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to
+be equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw?
+Perish the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse
+for her own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as
+is sometimes assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his
+squaw and her pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the
+most beautiful animal she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his
+decoration: headstall, breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly
+embroidered with beads, and hung with thimbles, hawks' bells, and
+bunches of ribbons. From each side of the saddle hangs an esquimoot,
+a sort of pocket, in which she bestows the residue of her trinkets and
+nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the decoration of her horse or
+herself. Over this she folds, with great care, a drapery of scarlet and
+bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the caparison of her steed
+complete.
+
+"As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair,
+esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited,
+and made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her
+riding hat is stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned
+somewhat after that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes
+gray cloth, but always of the finest texture that can be procured.
+Her leggings and moccasins are of the most beautiful and expensive
+workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the foot and ankle, which with the
+Indian woman are generally well formed and delicate. Then as to jewelry:
+in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings, necklaces, and other female
+glories, nothing within reach of the trapper's means is omitted that can
+tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the lady's high estate. To
+finish the whole, she selects from among her blankets of various dyes
+one of some glowing color, and throwing it over her shoulders with a
+native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay, prancing steed, and
+is ready to follow her mountaineer 'to the last gasp with love and
+loyalty.'"
+
+Such is the general picture of the free trapper's wife, given by Captain
+Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question
+does not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her
+connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp
+and circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that
+wherever there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest
+rivalry exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands'
+purses. Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by
+endeavors to eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies
+and heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of
+nature are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and
+fashion in the luxurious abodes of civilized life.
+
+The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom
+lights up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard
+upon the wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends,
+Captain Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed
+to suffer the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good
+cheer, and were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to "light
+up the yule clog," and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the
+wilderness.
+
+On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and
+rejoicings. In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the
+lodge of the Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted
+him with a feude joie.
+
+Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in
+which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited
+the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was
+gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief!
+There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet
+was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed
+for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up
+abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter
+roots which the Indians use as condiments.
+
+After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in
+Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity.
+After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and
+Indians closed the Christmas festivities.
+
+
+
+
+15.
+
+     A hunt after hunters--Hungry times--A voracious repast--
+     Wintry weather--Godin's River--Splendid winter scene on the
+     great--Lava Plain of Snake River--Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow--Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman--Encampment on Snake River--Banneck Indians--The
+     horse chief--His charmed life.
+
+THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time,
+caused great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding
+there was no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage
+of scouting parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set
+out himself on the search, and to keep on until he should ascertain
+something of the object of his solicitude.
+
+Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by
+thirteen stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for
+dangerous enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the
+head of the mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As
+they confidently expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other
+predatory horde, they moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant
+watch in their encampments.
+
+In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River,
+and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day's defile. It was
+severe and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter
+blasts of wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game
+was scarce, so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the
+want of pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor
+of the horses.
+
+The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two
+of the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping
+back in great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of
+savages, evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and
+nothing had saved them from being entrapped but the speed of their
+horses.
+
+These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored
+to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment,
+and its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven
+in and picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of
+trees and the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier
+was maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away
+without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to
+discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night;
+not a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel
+with which the plain was covered.
+
+Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of
+surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the
+foot of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the
+next day that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the
+plain, among rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half
+without a mouthful of food, they took especial care that these animals
+should not escape them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced
+cautiously with their rifles into the rough ground, four of the best
+mounted horsemen took their stations in the plain, to run the bulls down
+should they only be maimed.
+
+The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The
+half-famished horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen
+ground, but succeeded in driving them on the ice, where they slipped
+and fell, and were easily dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with
+beef for present and future supply, and then returned and encamped
+at the last nights's fire. Here they passed the remainder of the day,
+cooking and eating with a voracity proportioned to previous starvation,
+forgetting in the hearty revel of the moment the certain dangers with
+which they were environed.
+
+The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about
+their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships
+they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard,
+taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the
+lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the
+stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye
+could reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently
+deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the
+icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through
+want of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible
+famine like that they had already experienced.
+
+With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride;
+and, having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back
+until it was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated
+the difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have
+flinched from the undertaking.
+
+Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the
+course of a stream called John Day's Creek. The cold was so intense that
+they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should
+freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough
+even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high
+mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the
+cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches
+in depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat
+their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day's
+journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by
+the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps
+of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small
+branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood.
+
+In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down
+John Day's Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped
+upon the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat
+down and clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses.
+
+Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter
+in the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet.
+Many of the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after
+scenes of violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It
+was an act of filial vengeance on the part of Godin's son Antoine that,
+as the reader may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre's
+Hole.
+
+From Godin's River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon
+the plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated
+hills that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of
+Snake River, one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains.
+Could they have experienced a respite from their sufferings and
+anxieties, the immense landscape spread out before them was calculated
+to inspire admiration. Winter has its beauties and glories as well as
+summer; and Captain Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them.
+
+Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the
+lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever
+the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth
+from among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock
+and frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall
+pines seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with
+minute icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy
+trees conjured up by the caliph's story-teller to adorn his vale of
+diamonds.
+
+The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were
+in no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they
+stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight
+in more genial situations.
+
+Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so
+that it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here
+the horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for
+once they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that,
+in the morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered
+round and mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their
+half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce
+blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat
+the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed
+next to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts,
+when, fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party.
+Into this they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty.
+Shortly afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and
+was instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and
+crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after
+which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men
+reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing
+fire gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation.
+
+Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more
+facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the
+mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the
+day they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before
+them on the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better
+mounted on a fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring
+them with evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers,
+their leggings, blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped
+off with feathers, even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed
+complexions, gave them the look of Indians rather than white men, and
+made him mistake them for a war party of some hostile tribe.
+
+After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a
+parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing
+prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a
+breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for
+defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to
+be approached within speaking distance.
+
+He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at
+no great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that
+he was conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his
+reserve and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence
+that there were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood.
+This was cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one
+of them the long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore,
+with renovated spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there
+fixed his encampment.
+
+Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made
+about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men.
+An encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river,
+in which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu's
+men, from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there
+in the course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and
+self-gratulation to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his
+dreary and doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time
+in this encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give
+needful repose to men and horses.
+
+It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering
+grounds in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound
+its devious way between low banks through the great plain of the Three
+Butes; and was bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with
+islands which, like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves
+of cotton-wood, thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and
+abundance of green rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent
+that no single band of Indians could drive the buffalo out of them;
+nor was the snow of sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience.
+Indeed, during the sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood,
+which was in the heart of winter, he found the weather, with the
+exception of a few cold and stormy days, generally mild and pleasant,
+freezing a little at night but invariably thawing with the morning's
+sun-resembling the spring weather in the middle parts of the United
+States.
+
+The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky
+Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west
+of the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and
+Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white
+robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into
+the plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in
+quest of food; where they are easily slain in great numbers.
+
+Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to
+which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty
+band of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it
+unwise for those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an
+overpowering force.
+
+About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering
+about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors
+and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles
+where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising
+in warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet
+towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories
+and house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the
+rest with bows and arrows.
+
+As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River
+and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax
+fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh
+of deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and
+are met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving
+in exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon
+the tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the
+rise of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their
+horses, although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent
+stock from being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but
+two years old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses,
+also, than most of these migratory tribes.
+
+At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these
+Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The
+Horse. This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be
+invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been
+in repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had
+shown great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of
+the great men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of
+trappers passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had
+been sworn by the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself
+the friend of white men and, having great influence and authority among
+his people, he compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to
+conduct themselves amicably whenever they came in contact with the
+traders.
+
+This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the
+Blackfeet upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His
+fall in nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for
+they declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of
+horn which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no
+doubt, of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with
+sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory
+propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become
+troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of
+traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any
+small party that might fall within their reach.
+
+
+
+
+16.
+
+     Misadventures of Matthieu and his party--Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River--Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet--Heroism of a Nez Perce woman--Enrolled among the
+     braves.
+
+ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived
+in camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain
+Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward,
+keeping to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky
+chain. Here he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses,
+and soon discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the
+Shoshonie bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much
+frequented by trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to
+rejoin Captain Bonneville.
+
+He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of
+an Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped
+during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in
+snow and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with
+nine horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear
+River, where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the
+camp.
+
+They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was
+discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced
+a lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long
+as their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained
+the wary savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly
+encamped, in a situation where they might be approached with secrecy,
+the enemy crept stealthily along under cover of the river bank,
+preparing to burst suddenly upon their prey.
+
+They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they
+were discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently
+gave the alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and
+prepared to retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named
+Jennings, doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted
+his horse wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to
+mount, but in vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of
+firearms by the savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his
+nerves that he was unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing
+his peril and confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect
+him. A shot from a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he
+called upon the others not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross,
+after fighting desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining
+two vaulted into their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight,
+being pursued for nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu's
+camp, where their story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the
+hunters could not be prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest
+of provisions. They remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp;
+now and then killing an old or disabled horse for food, while the
+elk and the mountain sheep roamed unmolested among the surrounding
+mountains.
+
+The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain
+Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious
+encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to
+traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state
+of their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night,
+the position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night
+watches. The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given
+to hair-brained assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe
+well prepared and on the alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a
+protection against him as courage.
+
+The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet;
+until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the
+Bannecks, a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having
+belonged to one of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied
+having taken these spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the
+outrage had been perpetrated by a Blackfoot band.
+
+Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the
+arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered
+strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez
+Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might
+take thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly,
+leaving sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February
+with sixteen others on his journey to the caches.
+
+Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he
+encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he
+was again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River
+plain, where it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently
+incrusted to bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the
+crust, and plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by
+the ice that it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards,
+and put a different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies
+were swept by a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night,
+they had to task their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from
+freezing. In the first place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling
+it up in ramparts to windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath
+these they spread buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves
+in full dress, with caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves
+with numerous blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often
+severely pinched with the cold.
+
+On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This
+stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the
+Malade River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about
+twenty yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives
+its name, and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about
+forty miles, it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks.
+
+On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to
+come upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where
+he remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and
+dry a supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was
+moderate and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height.
+There was abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful
+in clayey and gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its
+name from a partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses
+in the winter, but they reject it the moment the young grass affords
+sufficient pasturage.
+
+On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed
+their march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they
+had to make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the
+wind.
+
+On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part
+of the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were
+sent out to reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a
+hunting party of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with
+meat. Captain Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them
+to proceed with his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he
+proposed also to invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere
+in this neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that
+friendly tribe who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had
+likewise been out to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted
+and harassed by their old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had
+contrived to carry off many of their horses.
+
+In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges
+separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their
+horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot
+banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and
+determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping
+ground of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which
+they hid themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some
+straggler who might guide them to the present "whereabout" of their
+intended victims. As fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot
+renegade, was the first to pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought
+bride. He was on his way from the main body of hunters to the little
+band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet knew and marked him as he passed; he
+was within bowshot of their ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for
+his blood, they forbore to launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment
+that he might lead them to their prey. Secretly following his trail,
+they discovered the lodges of the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed
+them with shouts and yellings. The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men,
+and but nine were armed with fusees. They showed themselves, however,
+as brave and skilful in war as they had been mild and long-suffering in
+peace. Their first care was to dig holes inside of their lodges; thus
+ensconced they fought desperately, laying several of the enemy dead upon
+the ground; while they, though Some of them were wounded, lost not a
+single warrior.
+
+During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her
+warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows,
+and bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the
+safety of the whole party.
+
+In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind
+the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert.
+A Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before
+him as he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the
+tree behind which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless
+interest; whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot.
+The Nez Perce put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he
+Sprang upon his feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the
+back of his antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of
+the horses, several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez
+Perces, ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves
+to the last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party
+was a renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no
+vindictive rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now
+he had got the booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He
+held a long parley, therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off
+his warriors, taking with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward,
+that the bullets of the Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the
+course of the battle, so that they were obliged to make use of stones as
+substitute.
+
+At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather
+than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the
+head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body
+remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the
+horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors
+paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with
+them to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and
+they passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving
+way to passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She
+was not mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck
+him, had stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful
+wife he gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and
+hatred of his tribe.
+
+As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was
+elevated by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other
+honorable distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in
+the war dances of the braves!
+
+
+
+
+17.
+
+     Opening of the caches--Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains--Superstition of an Indian trapper--
+     Godin's River--Preparations for trapping--An alarm--An
+     interruption--A rival band--Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms--Ingulfed streams--Sublime scenery--A
+     grand buffalo hunt.
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having
+secretly opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to
+equip the free trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with
+the Indians, after which he closed them again. The free trappers, being
+newly rigged out and supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly
+about the camp. To compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give
+a cheerful spur to further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the
+men what, in frontier phrase, is termed "a regular blow-out." It was a
+day of uncouth gambols and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined
+in the sports and games, and all was mirth and good-fellowship.
+
+It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations
+to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his
+main trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among
+the great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding
+course falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain
+dispatched Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and
+purchase horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a
+small stock of goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the
+spring, for such peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches
+on Salmon River as the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin
+him on the 15th of June following.
+
+This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men
+composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with
+eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River,
+as it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled
+very slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were
+so weak that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage,
+however, was now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass,
+which in some places had attained such height as to wave in the wind.
+The native flocks of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are
+called by the trappers, were continually to be seen upon the hills
+between which they passed, and a good supply of mutton was provided by
+the hunters, as they were advancing toward a region of scarcity.
+
+In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark
+an instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail
+among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to
+the sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the
+habit of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of
+"beaver lodges," and occasionally set their traps with some success.
+One of them, however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was
+invariably unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad
+luck, he at length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his
+person of which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach.
+He immediately set about a thorough purification. Making a rude
+sweating-house on the banks of the river, he would shut himself up until
+in a reeking perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge
+into the river. A number of these sweatings and plungings having, as
+he supposed, rendered his person perfectly "inodorous," he resumed his
+trapping with renovated hope.
+
+About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin's River, where
+they found the swamp full of "musk-rat houses." Here, therefore, Captain
+Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular
+attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he
+promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat
+they should take. All now set to work for the next day's sport. The
+utmost animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything
+looked auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats
+in the swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find
+when they should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver
+country all to themselves, where they might trap at their leisure
+without molestation.
+
+In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp,
+shouting, or rather yelling, "A trail! a trail!--lodge poles! lodge
+poles!"
+
+These were words full of meaning to a trapper's ear. They intimated that
+there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party,
+as they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told
+his story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by
+the dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too,
+had just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the
+hunters had already been on the range.
+
+The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat
+trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the
+trail. Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed
+the unknown party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival
+band of trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that
+too by a party already in the advance, who were driving the game before
+them. Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions
+to which a trapper's life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an
+uninterrupted hunt was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom
+and disappointment.
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the
+rival party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he
+turned his back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed
+on at "long camps", which in trapper's language is equivalent to long
+stages. On the 6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on
+the trail like hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of
+Godin's defile. Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two
+prime trappers, all well appointed, with excellent horses in capital
+condition led by Milton Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie,
+and in full march for the Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news.
+The Malade River was the only trapping ground within reach; but to have
+to compete there with veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the
+mountains, and admirably mounted, while they were so poorly provided
+with horses and trappers, and had but one man in their party acquainted
+with the country-it was out of the question.
+
+The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep
+among the mountains of Godin's River and blocked up the usual pass
+to the Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain
+Bonneville's horses should get once more into good condition in their
+present ample pasturage.
+
+The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but
+to keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any
+possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie
+endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay
+so deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain's
+horses were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which
+had been worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was
+increasing his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his
+favor.
+
+To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty
+of getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the
+intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that,
+apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases.
+
+Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and
+sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of
+these mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges
+resembling the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore.
+
+In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and
+dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth.
+Captain Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but
+without any satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them
+reverberated against the sides for apparently a very great depth, and,
+by its sound, indicated the same kind of substance with the surface, as
+long as the strokes could be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious
+in avoiding danger, shrinks back in alarm from the least of these
+chasms, pricking up his ears, snorting and pawing, until permitted to
+turn away.
+
+We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it
+is sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one
+of these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin's
+River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this
+plain; some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding,
+no doubt, subterranean outlets.
+
+Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over
+precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other
+forty feet in height.
+
+The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in
+diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste;
+where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but
+lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville's
+opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion
+of nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely,
+and dominate this wide sea of lava--one of the most striking features
+of a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple
+grandeur.
+
+We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this
+sublime but almost unknown region.
+
+It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers
+broke up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest
+end of the mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various
+points of the mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava
+plain, stretching away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye
+could reach. On the evening of the 26th they reached the plain west
+of the mountain, watered by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams,
+which comprised the contemplated trapping-ground.
+
+The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain
+Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West,
+presenting the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of
+bright running streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze.
+
+We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which
+lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the
+rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap
+each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped
+about various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set
+forward early in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On
+the way, he treated his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re
+ported numerous herds in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was
+an immediate halt; the fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the
+party advanced to the summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great
+plain below; absolutely swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now
+appointed the place where he would encamp; and toward which the hunters
+were to drive the game. He cautioned the latter to advance slowly,
+reserving the strength and speed of the horses until within a moderate
+distance of the herds. Twenty-two horsemen descended cautiously into
+the plain, conformably to these directions. "It was a beautiful sight,"
+says the captain, "to see the runners, as they are called, advancing in
+column, at a slow trot, until within two hundred and fifty yards of the
+outskirts of the herd, then dashing on at full speed until lost in the
+immense multitude of buffaloes scouring the plain in every direction."
+All was now tumult and wild confusion. In the meantime Captain
+Bonneville and the residue of the party moved on to the appointed
+camping ground; thither the most expert runners succeeded in driving
+numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the camp, and the flesh
+transported thither without difficulty. In a little while the whole camp
+looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses were skilfully
+cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying and jerking
+beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence. On the
+15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain
+Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches.
+
+Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all
+in good health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies
+of various kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae
+distributed throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality
+this merry meeting.
+
+
+
+
+18.
+
+     Meeting with Hodgkiss--Misfortunes of the Nez Perces--
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado--His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie--Invasion of Black feet--Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope--Their generous enterprise--Their fate--Consternation
+     and despair of the village--Solemn obsequies--Attempt at
+     Indian trade--Hudson's Bay Company's monopoly--Arrangements
+     for autumn--Breaking up of an encampment.
+
+HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain
+Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the
+secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly
+into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had
+remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and
+learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently
+befallen that ill-fated race.
+
+After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade
+Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his
+strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now
+resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon
+their old enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and
+robberies they had recently experienced, and assuring them that such
+would continue to be their lot until they proved themselves men by some
+signal retaliation.
+
+The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect;
+and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the
+Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and
+commit all kinds of depredations.
+
+Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he
+came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate
+their force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely
+seconded by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody;
+at length, as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held
+a long parley, or rather a war of words.
+
+"What need," said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, "have the Nez Perces
+to leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have
+danger enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your
+villages; you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have
+hitherto made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A
+great force is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and
+are determined to rub out the very name of the Nez Perces from the
+mountains. Return, I say, to your towns, and fight there, if you wish to
+live any longer as a people."
+
+Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native
+tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told
+all that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous
+measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their
+accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and
+as often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at
+present, and, of course, took no precautions.
+
+They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a
+band of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All
+now was consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was
+too small to cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men
+having gone to their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The
+sages met in hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow
+which threatened annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a
+Pierced-nose chief, named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach
+secretly with a small, but chosen band, through a defile which led to
+the encampment of the enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the
+horses. Should this blow be successful, the spirit and strength of the
+invaders would be broken, and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be
+more than a match for them. Should it fail, the village would not be
+worse off than at present, when destruction appeared inevitable.
+
+Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow
+Blue John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the
+solemnity and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his
+medicine, or talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge
+as a supernatural protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise
+would be completely successful, provided no rain should fall before he
+had passed through the defile; but should it rain, his band would be
+utterly cut off.
+
+The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies
+would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope;
+and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and
+horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring
+style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers.
+
+The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as
+they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and
+there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to
+read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John
+remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was
+their hope to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the
+Blackfoot camp; but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they
+met a scouting party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among
+the hills, and were pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard
+shouts and yells behind them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet
+advancing.
+
+The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant
+retreat. "We came to fight!" replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his
+war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed
+him. They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of
+victory, but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful
+carnage, rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid
+heaps of their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with
+numbers and pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued
+to fight until they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty,
+survived. He sprang on the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had
+slain, and escaping at full speed, brought home the baleful tidings to
+his village.
+
+Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower
+of their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The
+air was rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting
+off their ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically
+bewailing the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The
+remaining warriors armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed
+by their gloomy looks and sullen silence that they considered defence
+hopeless. To their surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing
+their advantage; perhaps satisfied with the blood already shed, or
+disheartened by the loss they had themselves sustained. At any rate,
+they disappeared from the hills, and it was soon ascertained that they
+had returned to the Horse Prairie.
+
+The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of
+their warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away
+the bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless
+trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely
+they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off;
+a proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe
+renowned for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the
+Indian victor thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the
+deceased.
+
+Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across
+their pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the
+village. The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing
+cries and wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom
+and sorrow seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost
+undistinguishable bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the
+midst of the assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and
+lamentation that ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian
+stoicism.
+
+Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe
+during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that
+Kosato, the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been
+prevented from going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse
+the vindictive feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to
+revenge the slaughter of their devoted braves.
+
+During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one
+of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at
+this time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians
+encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they
+had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with
+a resident trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was stationed among
+them, and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the
+trader was almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply
+not having yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence
+that the supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped,
+how-ever, by a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the
+market to himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he
+opened his packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares:
+bright cloths, and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and
+everything gay and glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all,
+however, was in vain. The Hudson's Bay trader was a perfect master of
+his business, thoroughly acquainted with the Indians he had to deal
+with, and held such control over them that none dared to act openly in
+opposition to his wishes; nay, more--he came nigh turning the tables
+upon the captain, and shaking the allegiance of some of his free
+trappers, by distributing liquors among them. The latter, therefore, was
+glad to give up a competition, where the war was likely to be carried
+into his own camp.
+
+In fact, the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company have advantages over
+all competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge
+monopoly centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and
+long-established power and influence; but also those of its ancient
+rival, but now integral part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus
+its races of traders, trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought
+up in its service, and inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge
+and aptitude in everything connected with Indian life, and Indian
+traffic. In the process of years, this company has been enabled to
+spread its ramifications in every direction; its system of intercourse
+is founded upon a long and intimate knowledge of the character and
+necessities of the various tribes; and of all the fastnesses, defiles,
+and favorable hunting grounds of the country. Their capital, also, and
+the manner in which their supplies are distributed at various posts,
+or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their traders well supplied, and
+enable them to furnish their goods to the Indians at a cheap rate. Their
+men, too, being chiefly drawn from the Canadas, where they enjoy great
+influence and control, are engaged at the most trifling wages, and
+supported at little cost; the provisions which they take with them being
+little more than Indian corn and grease. They are brought also into the
+most perfect discipline and subordination, especially when their
+leaders have once got them to their scene of action in the heart of the
+wilderness.
+
+These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson's Bay
+Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come
+within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost
+hopeless.
+
+Shortly after Captain Bonneville's ineffectual attempt to participate
+in the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson's Bay
+Company arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the
+market.
+
+It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month
+Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green
+River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the
+preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and
+prepared for the journey.
+
+The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country;
+which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie
+immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads
+of the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies;
+but they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois
+had, latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves
+to the Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their
+migrations rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages
+of the Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would
+range their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this
+was their reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal
+hunting ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his
+engagements required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River
+Valley; and he had already formed his ulterior plans.
+
+An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a
+stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey;
+the route lay through Pierre's Hole, and other mountain passes infested
+by the Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They
+were not disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers,
+when they had good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the
+head-waters of Salmon River.
+
+As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt
+to be law--who had the whole wilderness before them, "where to choose,"
+and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their
+services--it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain Bonneville
+fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question;
+appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing
+a rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing
+winter. The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or
+five hired men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of
+a trapping party; which when accurately organized is composed of two
+thirds trappers whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of
+game; and one third camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the
+tents, take care of the horses and do all other duties usually assigned
+by the Indians to their women. This part of the service is apt to
+be fulfilled by French creoles from Canada and the valley of the
+Mississippi.
+
+In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade
+and received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various
+directions. As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a
+mountain to the northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would
+have to pass; and as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had
+their scouts out watching every movement of the encampments, so as to
+cut off stragglers or weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed
+upon the Nez Perces to accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they
+should be beyond the range of the enemy.
+
+The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at
+the same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the
+Blackfeet; while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in
+an opposite direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre's
+Hole, on his way to Green River.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same
+moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and
+picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their
+rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons,
+their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with
+packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening
+cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the
+plains and mountains.
+
+
+
+
+19.
+
+     Precautions in dangerous defiles--Trappers' mode of defence
+     on a prairie--A mysterious visitor--Arrival in Green River
+     Valley--Adventures of the detachments--The forlorn partisan
+     --His tale of disasters.
+
+AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the
+most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures
+with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When
+on the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to
+reconnoitre the country through which they were to pass. The encampments
+were selected with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day.
+The horses were brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a
+party was sent out to scour the neighborhood for half a mile round,
+beating up every grove and thicket that could give shelter to a lurking
+foe. When all was reported safe, the horses were cast loose and turned
+out to graze. Were such precautions generally observed by traders and
+hunters, we should not so often hear of parties being surprised by the
+Indians.
+
+Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here
+mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from
+a veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey
+with a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses
+under his care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided
+with a picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern
+fetters for the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a
+long line; or sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from
+each other to prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when
+there is no covert at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to
+the rear and form a circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into
+the ground in the centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their
+forelegs, so that, in case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they
+unload them, and dispose of their packs as breastworks on the periphery
+of the circle; each man having nine packs behind which to shelter
+himself. In this promptly-formed fortress, they await the assault of the
+enemy, and are enabled to set large bands of Indians at defiance.
+
+The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry's
+Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American
+trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all
+hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary
+female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on
+a mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched
+round the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently
+into the midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground,
+still holding her horse by the long halter.
+
+The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet
+resolute demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and
+trappers gathered round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She
+remained silent, but maintained her air of calmness and self-possession.
+Captain Bonneville approached and interrogated her as to the object
+of her mysterious visit. Her answer was brief but earnest--"I love the
+whites--I will go with them." She was forthwith invited to a lodge,
+of which she readily took possession, and from that time forward was
+considered one of the camp.
+
+In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain
+Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous
+region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of
+a horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called
+the Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson's and Pierre's Hole, fell
+over the brink, and was dashed to pieces.
+
+On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River.
+As he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with
+the carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently
+been there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to
+a halt, and as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of
+rendezvous on Horse Creek, where he had expected to meet with his
+detached parties of trappers on the following day. Early in the morning
+the spies made their appearance in the camp, and with them came three
+trappers of one of his bands, from the rendezvous, who told him his
+people were all there expecting him. As to the slaughter among the
+buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band of Shoshonies, who had
+fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and accompanied them to the
+rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the three worthies from
+the rendezvous broached a small keg of "alcohol," which they had brought
+with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor went briskly round;
+all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved forward to the
+rendezvous in high spirits.
+
+The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other
+on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its
+tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the
+various detachments of Captain Bonneville's company, thus brought
+together on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which
+he had sent from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to
+winter on Snake River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the
+course of their spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men.
+They had come in competition with rival trapping parties, particularly
+one belonging to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long
+stories to relate of their manoeuvres to forestall or distress each
+other. In fact, in these virulent and sordid competitions, the trappers
+of each party were more intent upon injuring their rivals, than
+benefitting themselves; breaking each other's traps, trampling and
+tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every thing in their
+power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail these pitiful
+contentions.
+
+The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville
+had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding
+year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow
+country, and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was
+to proceed and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This
+partisan appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful
+tale of disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell
+in with a village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse
+stealers, and errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of
+his men to desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When
+he attempted to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to
+him and declared the deserters were their good friends, had determined
+to remain among them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan,
+therefore, was fain to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their
+own feather, and being too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous
+pass across the mountains to meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he
+made, with the few that remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood
+of Tullock's Fort, on the Yellowstone, under the protection of which he
+went into winter quarters.
+
+He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad
+as the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing
+away thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their
+hands on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for
+whiskey, and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery.
+
+The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a
+few free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off
+early in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the
+course of the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a
+steep mountain, that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during
+the night. The place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the
+sign of an Indian in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had
+been turned by a footstep. But who can calculate on security in the
+midst of the Indian country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy,
+and seems to come and go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce
+been turned loose, when a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors
+entered the camp. They affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their
+appearance and movements awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran
+trappers, well versed in Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies
+sent on some sinister errand, they took them in custody, and set to work
+to drive in the horses. It was too late--the horses were already gone.
+In fact, a war party of Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for
+several days, watching with the patience and perseverance of Indians,
+for some moment of negligence and fancied security, to make a successful
+swoop. The two spies had evidently been sent into the camp to create a
+diversion, while their confederates carried off the spoil.
+
+The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his
+prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them
+to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon
+found that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on
+horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very
+horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment;
+but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their
+steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was
+now attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to
+barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers
+spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were
+relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to
+their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a
+blaze.
+
+The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another,
+in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of
+the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of
+the captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many
+parting words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart,
+and knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort
+to escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and
+retaken; then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the
+sight of their retreating comrades.
+
+Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who
+mingle in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible
+recrimination on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any
+atrocities committed by the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this
+signal and recent provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the
+kind dwell in the recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of
+honor and conscience to revenge them.
+
+The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It
+was out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party;
+the only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first
+water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the
+stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments
+at which they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the
+partisan, he found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous
+at Green River Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain
+Bonneville this forlorn account of his misadventures.
+
+
+
+
+20.
+
+     Gathering in Green River valley--Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders--Rough wassailing among the trappers--Wild blades of
+     the mountains--Indian belles--Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets--Arrival of supplies--Revelry and extravagance
+     --Mad wolves--The lost Indian
+
+THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those
+general gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have
+already mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past
+had been endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were
+here encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About
+four miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the
+American Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain
+Fur Company.
+
+After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these
+companies in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus
+brought in juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly
+aloof from each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl
+and bloodshed would ensue.
+
+No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar,
+meet with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting
+season over, all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and
+bickerings buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of
+September, all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding
+their furs and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the
+trapper's holiday, when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a
+saturnalia among the mountains.
+
+At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had
+been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits,
+had quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn
+every favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling
+at their respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in
+possession of a rich stock of peltries.
+
+The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of
+perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other
+in the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich
+treat for the worthy captain was to see the "chivalry" of the various
+encampments, engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping,
+wrestling, shooting with the rifle, and running horses. And then their
+rough hunters' feastings and carousels. They drank together, they sang,
+they laughed, they whooped; they tried to out-brag and out-lie each
+other in stories of their adventures and achievements. Here the free
+trappers were in all their glory; they considered themselves the "cocks
+of the walk," and always carried the highest crests. Now and then
+familiarity was pushed too far, and would effervesce into a brawl, and a
+"rough and tumble" fight; but it all ended in cordial reconciliation and
+maudlin endearment.
+
+The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause
+temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects
+of rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper
+who could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper
+of precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair
+one.
+
+The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period
+of gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager
+competition and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales
+were hastily ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth.
+A mania for purchasing spread itself throughout the several
+bands--munitions for war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon
+with equal avidity--rifles, hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red
+blankets, garish beads, and glittering trinkets, were bought at any
+price, and scores run up without any thought how they were ever to be
+rubbed off. The free trappers, especially, were extravagant in their
+purchases. For a free mountaineer to pause at a paltry consideration of
+dollars and cents, in the attainment of any object that might strike his
+fancy, would stamp him with the mark of the beast in the estimation of
+his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of these free and flourishing
+blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might stare him in the face,
+would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be forgiven.
+
+Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers
+were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses
+caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted
+about in all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality
+was indulged to its fullest extent, and in a little while most of
+the trappers, having squandered away all their wages, and perhaps
+run knee-deep in debt, were ready for another hard campaign in the
+wilderness.
+
+During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves
+in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps
+for three nights successively, and bit several of the people.
+
+Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal
+favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals.
+Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy,
+and lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted
+and urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him,
+and, leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth,
+gnashing his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his
+senses, and warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not
+be able to restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain
+relief; but on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and
+his accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards
+a solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a
+valley, and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the
+mountains, and was seen no more.
+
+Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the
+encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been
+bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on
+his return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed
+symptoms of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length,
+breaking away from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows,
+where they left him to his fate!
+
+
+
+
+21.
+
+     Schemes of Captain Bonneville--The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it--Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy,
+well-seasoned and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited
+by at least one year's experience among the mountains, and capable of
+protecting themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing
+for their subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an
+excellent troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service.
+He determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of
+his scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the
+unknown tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the
+buffalo range. This would have something of the merit and charm of
+discovery, so dear to every brave and adventurous spirit. Another
+favorite project was to establish a trading post on the lower part
+of the Columbia River, near the Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to
+retrieve for his country some of the lost trade of Astoria.
+
+The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his
+mind--the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of the
+wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression
+on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal
+charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the
+mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those
+vast and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of
+the Pacific.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from
+the land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you
+behold this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and
+stretching further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse,
+until the eye, wearied with continued and strained attention, rests
+in the blue dimness of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains,
+confidently asserted to rise from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to
+you, the smooth and unruffled surface is studded with little islands,
+where the mountain sheep roam in considerable numbers. What extent of
+lowland may be encompassed by the high peaks beyond, must remain for the
+present matter of mere conjecture though from the form of the summits,
+and the breaks which may be discovered among them, there can be little
+doubt that they are the sources of streams calculated to water large
+tracts, which are probably concealed from view by the rotundity of the
+lake's surface. At some future day, in all probability, the rich harvest
+of beaver fur, which may be reasonably anticipated in such a spot, will
+tempt adventurers to reduce all this doubtful region to the palpable
+certainty of a beaten track. At present, however, destitute of the means
+of making boats, the trapper stands upon the shore, and gazes upon a
+promised land which his feet are never to tread.
+
+Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to
+this great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas
+concerning it from the representations of others, who have somewhat
+exaggerated its features. It is reported to be about one hundred and
+fifty miles long, and fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks
+which Captain Bonneville speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are
+probably the summits of mountains beyond it, which may be visible at
+a vast distance, when viewed from an eminence, in the transparent
+atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several large islands certainly exist
+in the lake; one of which is said to be mountainous, but not by any
+means to the extent required to furnish the series of peaks above
+mentioned.
+
+Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains,
+is said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake,
+who professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered
+excessively from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and
+there being no fresh streams running into it.
+
+Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished
+the circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large
+streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring,
+when the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows,
+the lake rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer,
+it gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt
+upon its shores.
+
+The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is
+estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above
+the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the
+atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report
+of firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme
+dryness, causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced
+in former passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the
+Rocky Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a
+height is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though
+the salt lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation.
+
+To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was
+the grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was
+one in which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed
+it would be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams
+with which the lake must be fringed.
+
+This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in
+whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him
+to keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his
+route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his
+journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of
+his route, and of the surrounding country.
+
+No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men,
+which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were
+to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear
+River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point
+of general rendezvous.
+
+The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe
+transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic
+States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time
+in the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up
+their supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries
+collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow
+country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend
+in boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St.
+Louis.
+
+Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same
+route, under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would
+accompany Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal
+hunt in the Crow country.
+
+
+
+
+22.
+
+     The Crow country--A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows--
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man--His fights with
+     the Blackfeet--His elevation--His death--Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief--His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell--Honor among
+     Crows
+
+BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will
+impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who
+inhabit it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are
+any, of the country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from
+the Black Hills to the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty
+ranges, and embracing many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind
+River, the Yellowstone, the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the
+Nebraska. The country varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains
+of sand and clay, studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are
+mountainous and picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines,
+and abounds with game.
+
+But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a
+Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.
+
+"The Crow country," said he, "is a good country. The Great Spirit has
+put it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well;
+whenever you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse.
+
+"If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains;
+the water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague.
+
+"To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no
+grass; you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is
+a country without horses?
+
+"On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and
+eat fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones
+out of their mouths. Fish is poor food.
+
+"To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the
+muddy water of the Missouri--that is bad. A Crow's dog would not drink
+such water.
+
+"About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good
+grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow
+country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no
+salt weed for the horses.
+
+"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains
+and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every
+season. When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under
+the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the
+bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can
+hunt the elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for
+dressing; there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep.
+
+"In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain
+pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap
+beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in
+the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for
+yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in
+the Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance.
+
+"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to
+be found there. There is no country like the Crow country."
+
+Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish.
+
+We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory
+habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but
+their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory
+habits, are gradually wearing them out.
+
+In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose,
+an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter
+to Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to
+Astoria, who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and
+who remained among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting
+their congenial habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of
+that renegade may not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected
+with the fortunes of the tribe.
+
+Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his
+daring deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He
+aspired to command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate
+exploits. He distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet.
+On one occasion, a band of those savages had fortified themselves within
+a breastwork, and could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work.
+"Who will take the lead?" was the demand. "I!" cried he; and putting
+himself at their head, rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed
+him he shot down with his rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his
+victim, killed four others within the fort. The victory was complete,
+and Rose returned to the Crow village covered with glory, and bearing
+five Blackfoot scalps, to be erected as a trophy before his lodge. From
+this time, he was known among the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats,
+or "the man who killed five." He became chief of the village, or rather
+band, and for a time was the popular idol. His popularity soon awakened
+envy among the native braves; he was a stranger, an intruder, a white
+man. A party seceded from his command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded
+that lasted for two or three years, until Rose, having contrived to set
+his adopted brethren by the ears, left them, and went down the Missouri
+in 1823. Here he fell in with one of the earliest trapping expeditions
+sent by General Ashley across the mountains. It was conducted by
+Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose enlisted with them as guide
+and interpreter. When he got them among the Crows, he was exceedingly
+generous with their goods; making presents to the braves of his adopted
+tribe, as became a high-minded chief.
+
+This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition,
+Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley;
+the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse
+Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the
+instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was
+the perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr.
+Hunt and his party.
+
+The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General
+Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to
+protect the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation,
+at which Rose figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The
+military were stationed at some little distance from the scene of the
+"big talk"; while the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and
+making speeches, the officers, supposing all was friendly, left the
+troops, and drew near the scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing
+Crows, perceiving this, stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved,
+contrived to stop the touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly
+after, a misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the
+Indians, knowing the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult
+arose. In the confusion, Colonel O'Fallan snapped a pistol in the face
+of a brave, and knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all
+in a fury. A chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when
+Rose, his natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke
+the stock of his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so
+vigorously about him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng
+to flight. Luckily, as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting
+calmed the fury of the Crows, and the tumult ended without serious
+consequences.
+
+What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly
+known. Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by
+his licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud
+among the Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and
+the influence he acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial
+effects. He is said, not merely to have rendered them more formidable
+to the Blackfeet, but to have opened their eyes to the policy of
+cultivating the friendship of the white men.
+
+After Rose's death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with
+indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who
+had been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed
+to develope. This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to
+restrain the predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against
+the white men. "If we keep friends with them," said he, "we have nothing
+to fear from the Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains." Arapooish
+pretended to be a great "medicine man", a character among the Indians
+which is a compound of priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried
+about with him a tame eagle, as his "medicine" or familiar. With the
+white men, he acknowledged that this was all charlatanism, but said it
+was necessary, to give him weight and influence among his people.
+
+Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the
+course of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the
+village of Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had
+collected a large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered,
+deposited but a part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a
+cache. One night, Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and
+seated himself for a time without saying a word. At length, turning to
+Campbell, "You have more furs with you," said he, "than you have brought
+into my lodge?"
+
+"I have," replied Campbell.
+
+"Where are they?"
+
+Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and
+the importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where
+he had concealed his peltries.
+
+"'Tis well," replied Arapooish; "you speak straight. It is just as you
+say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been
+taken from it."
+
+Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one
+hundred and fifty beaver skins.
+
+Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached
+his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and
+commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back:
+declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he
+would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him.
+
+The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged
+Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring
+in the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered.
+
+In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at
+a time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them
+departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat
+in one corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a
+muscle of his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all
+the skins had been brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and
+Campbell expressed himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He
+fasted all that night, nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some
+more skins were brought in, and continued to come, one and two at a
+time, throughout the day, until but a few were wanting to make the
+number complete. Campbell was now anxious to put an end to this fasting
+of the old chief, and again declared that he was perfectly satisfied.
+Arapooish demanded what number of skins were yet wanting. On being told,
+he whispered to some of his people, who disappeared. After a time the
+number were brought in, though it was evident they were not any of the
+skins that had been stolen, but others gleaned in the village.
+
+"Is all right now?" demanded Arapooish.
+
+"All is right," replied Campbell.
+
+"Good! Now bring me meat and drink!"
+
+When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his
+guest.
+
+"When you come another time among the Crows," said he, "don't hide your
+goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the
+lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one
+who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for
+my sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may
+be disposed to be troublesome. Don't linger, therefore, but pack your
+horses and be off."
+
+Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow
+country. He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black
+as they are painted. "Trust to their honor," says he, "and you are safe:
+trust to their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head."
+
+Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the
+course of our narrative.
+
+
+
+
+23.
+
+     Departure from--Green River valley--Popo-Agie--Its course--
+     The rivers into which it runs--Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring--Volcanic tracts in the Crow country--
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River--Sulphur springs--Hidden
+     fires--Colter's Hell-Wind River--Campbell's party--
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers--Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller--Nathaniel Wyeth--Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West--Disaster of Campbell's party--A union of
+     bands--The Bad Pass--The rapids--Departure of Fitzpatrick--
+     Embarkation of peltries--Wyeth and his bull boat--Adventures
+     of Captain--Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains--Adventures
+     in the plain--Traces of Indians--Travelling precautions--
+     Dangers of making a smoke--The rendezvous
+
+ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out
+on his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men,
+including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River
+valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of
+mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell's party,
+which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived
+that it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this
+was different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to
+the northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream
+takes its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian
+names, is characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head;
+and Agie, river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the
+south end of the Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it
+falls into the Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains,
+but is twice crossed by chains of mountains; the first called the
+Littlehorn; the second, the Bighorn. After it has forced its way through
+the first chain, it is called the Horn River; after the second chain,
+it is called the Bighorn River. Its passage through this last chain
+is rough and violent; making repeated falls, and rushing down long and
+furious rapids, which threaten destruction to the navigator; though a
+hardy trapper is said to have shot down them in a canoe. At the foot of
+these rapids, is the head of navigation; where it was the intention of
+the parties to construct boats, and embark.
+
+Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in
+full view of the "Bluffs," as they are called, extending from the base
+of the Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the
+eye a confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and
+angular, some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up
+in fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no
+soil favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all
+this isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints
+and hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty.
+
+In this neighborhood, the captain made search for "the great Tar
+Spring," one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties
+of which, he had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a
+toilsome search, he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east
+of the Wind River Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the
+color and consistency of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect
+a quantity of it, to use as an ointment for the galled backs of
+their horses, and as a balsam for their own pains and aches. From the
+description given of it, it is evidently the bituminous oil, called
+petrolium or naphtha, which forms a principal ingredient in the potent
+medicine called British Oil. It is found in various parts of Europe and
+Asia, in several of the West India islands, and in some places of the
+United States. In the state of New York, it is called Seneca Oil, from
+being found near the Seneca lake.
+
+The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in
+superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the
+trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding
+with anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places
+emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A
+volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of
+the tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the
+odor derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned
+place was first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and
+Clarke's exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely
+wanderings, and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden
+fires, smoking pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading "smell
+of brimstone," that it received, and has ever since retained among
+trappers, the name of "Colter's Hell!"
+
+Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain
+Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams
+entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name
+to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most
+important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen,
+Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for
+a fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the
+afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on
+the opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were
+Indians; he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and,
+by the long line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of
+Campbell, which, having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to
+the Horn River.
+
+The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the
+4th of August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn
+Mountain. In company with Campbell's convoy was a trapping party of the
+Rocky Mountain Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell's
+embarkation on the Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses,
+and proceed on a trapping campaign. There were, moreover, two chance
+companions in the rival camp. One was Captain Stewart, of the British
+army, a gentleman of noble connections, who was amusing himself by a
+wandering tour in the Far West; in the course of which, he had lived
+in hunter's style; accompanying various bands of traders, trappers, and
+Indians; and manifesting that relish for the wilderness that belongs to
+men of game spirit.
+
+The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell's camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth;
+the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with
+whom we parted company in the valley of Pierre's Hole, after the battle
+with the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out
+from the rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of
+trappers. On his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to
+the deserted fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a
+dismal scene. The fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the
+slain; while vultures soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around;
+and Indian dogs howled about the place, as if bewailing the death
+of their masters. Wyeth travelled for a considerable distance to the
+southwest, in company with Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the
+former, with eleven men, the remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake
+River; kept down the course of that eventful stream; traversed the Blue
+Mountains, trapping beaver occasionally by the way, and finally, after
+hardships of all kinds, arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver,
+on the Columbia, the main factory of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that
+company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or
+tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue
+any longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some
+entered into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the
+goods he had brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a
+word, his expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a
+failure. He lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as
+strong as ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of
+service to him in the further prosecution of his project; collected
+all the information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by
+merely two men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got
+thus far "by hook and by crook," a mode in which a New England man can
+make his way all over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties,
+and was now bound for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a
+company for the salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia.
+
+The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of
+their route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were
+reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one
+night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this
+tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and
+confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the
+horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head,
+and nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses,
+leaving the rest of the party to find their way to the main body on
+foot.
+
+The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus
+fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great
+good fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The
+captain, however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his
+trappers, who kept profound silence as to their future movements,
+intended to hunt the same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal
+campaign; which lay to the west of the Horn River, on its tributary
+streams. In the course of his march, therefore, he secretly detached
+a small party of trappers, to make their way to those hunting grounds,
+while he continued on with the main body; appointing a rendezvous, at
+the next full moon, about the 28th of August, at a place called the
+Medicine Lodge.
+
+On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where
+the river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with
+cascades and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks,
+and traverse the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically
+called the "Bad Pass." Descending the opposite side, they again made for
+the river banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below
+the rapids where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain
+Bonneville detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten
+men, to seek and join those whom he had detached while on the route;
+appointing for them the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the
+28th of August.
+
+All hands now set to work to construct "bull boats," as they are
+technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of
+the expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo
+skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats.
+Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood,
+launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down
+an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries
+teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow
+traveller, and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre's Hole,
+took passage in his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two
+Indians. We shall hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the
+course of our wanderings about the Far West.
+
+The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That
+of Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he
+embarked all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a
+party of thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and
+the little squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the
+Bighorn.
+
+The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his
+men first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably,
+superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in
+that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the
+peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above
+a hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder,
+and Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was
+desirous of having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures
+they met with in that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall
+have something to relate hereafter.
+
+Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign
+without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at
+Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six
+horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain
+and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril
+for a numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his
+difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit.
+
+In the afternoon of his first day's journey, on drawing near to the
+Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the
+night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from
+its base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very
+irregular; sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up
+in heavy volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there;
+probably, some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do
+for so small a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture
+within sight of any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his
+companions, therefore, avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and,
+proceeding with extreme caution, reached the summit of the mountain,
+apparently without being discovered. Here they found a deserted
+Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced themselves; disposed of every
+thing as securely as possible, and passed the night without molestation.
+Early the next morning they descended the south side of the mountain
+into the great plain extending between it and the Littlehorn range. Here
+they soon came upon numerous footprints, and the carcasses of buffaloes;
+by which they knew there must be Indians not far off. Captain Bonneville
+now began to feel solicitude about the two small parties of trappers
+which he had detached, lest the Indians should have come upon them
+before they had united their forces. But he felt still more solicitude
+about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he could traverse
+these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad; and should
+he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one. Everything now
+depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous to discharge
+a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such quick-eared
+and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the day they
+saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in great
+numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they encamped
+with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for their
+protection.
+
+For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but
+cautiously, across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the
+Horn River; encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island;
+meeting, repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in
+passing through a defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock
+their rifles.
+
+On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution,
+and they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the
+report. They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with
+them to the place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived
+safely, in the evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper.
+
+The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a
+fortress of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest
+caution. Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no
+glare, and a moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance.
+In the morning and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises
+perpendicularly in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the
+tree-tops, and can be discovered from afar.
+
+In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously
+encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had
+been expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had
+their several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we
+will furnish to the reader in the next chapter.
+
+
+
+
+24.
+
+     Adventures of the party of ten--The--Balaamite mule--A dead
+     point--The mysterious elks--A night attack--A retreat--
+     Travelling under an alarm--A joyful meeting--Adventures of
+     the other party--A decoy elk--Retreat to an island--A savage
+     dance of triumph--Arrival at Wind River
+
+THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These
+trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where
+the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain,
+and having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set
+his trap in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his
+steed came to a full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to
+every blow and kick the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused
+to budge an inch. The rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of
+some cause for this demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian
+fort within gunshot distance, lowering through the twilight. In a
+twinkling he wheeled about; his mule now seemed as eager to get on as
+himself, and in a few moments brought him, clattering with his traps,
+among his comrades. He was jeered at for his alacrity in retreating;
+his report was treated as a false alarm; his brother trappers contented
+themselves with reconnoitring the fort at a distance, and pronounced
+that it was deserted.
+
+As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on
+his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard
+stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their
+blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with
+a long day's march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a
+profound sleep.
+
+The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the
+sentinel stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped
+as heartily as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to
+nod at his post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He
+half opened his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about
+the lodges, picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight
+of elk within the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but
+having had his supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to
+graze about unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze.
+
+Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and
+tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to
+secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking,
+and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and
+firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded
+in driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered
+still more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage,
+and camp furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The
+Indians, in the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up
+the most horrible clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or
+frightening off the horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked
+them briskly and drove them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept
+up for an hour, when the Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave
+up the contest and retired. They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet,
+who, while in search of the Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of
+Captain Bonneville on the Popo Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but
+had been completely baffled by his vigilance. They had then waylaid the
+present detachment, and were actually housed in perfect silence within
+their fort, when the mule of the trapper made such a dead point.
+
+The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility,
+mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of
+the most insulting kind.
+
+In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed.
+On preparing the morning's meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and
+other articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by
+the fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel.
+As the Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had
+intended to travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward
+rapidly through the "Bad Pass," nor halted until night; when, supposing
+themselves out of the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with
+tying up their horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to
+sleep, when a dog strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons
+tied upon his back; for dogs are made to carry burdens among the
+Indians. The sentinel, more knowing than he of the preceding night,
+awoke his companions and reported the circumstance. It was evident that
+Indians were at hand. All were instantly at work; a strong pen was soon
+constructed for the horses, after completing which, they resumed their
+slumbers with the composure of men long inured to dangers.
+
+In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various
+suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them.
+Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which,
+with the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be
+that of the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his
+march, and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from
+various signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the
+Indians. They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried
+them to the banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its
+course, until they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here,
+to their great joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in
+search, all strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and
+anxiety.
+
+We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers.
+These men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville,
+had proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river,
+trapping beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit
+their traps, one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a
+distance, and requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started
+off for the purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some
+savages in ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off
+his hide and his horn, started forth an Indian warrior.
+
+One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the
+others fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could
+carry off, retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge
+among the willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had
+fallen, but who had merely been wounded in the neck.
+
+In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with
+all the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among
+the spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came
+sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached
+near by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at
+the same moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and
+warned of his danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a
+moment, bewildered and aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and
+made off at full speed, quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians
+rattled after him.
+
+In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed
+a circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky
+trappers for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they
+considered cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their
+usual mode of bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of
+the willows. A sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden
+halt, and laid three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed
+himself on an eminence to direct all the movements of his people,
+seeing three of his warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They
+immediately did so, and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point
+of woods, carrying off with them the horses, traps, and the greater part
+of the baggage.
+
+It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered
+this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up
+after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could
+not be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in
+a neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made
+their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous.
+
+Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well
+as from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in
+a neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also,
+who visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of
+Crows marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore,
+on the 1st of September, made his way to the south, across the
+Littlehorn Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning
+westward, moved slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his
+men to trap as he proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present
+hunting campaigns to go near the caches on Green River, and as the
+trappers were in want of traps to replace those they had lost, Captain
+Bonneville undertook to visit the caches, and procure a supply. To
+accompany him in this hazardous expedition, which would take him through
+the defiles of the Wind River Mountains, and up the Green River valley,
+he took but three men; the main party were to continue on trapping up
+toward the head of Wind River, near which he was to rejoin them, just
+about the place where that stream issues from the mountains. We shall
+accompany the captain on his adventurous errand.
+
+
+
+
+25.
+
+     Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley--Journey
+     up the Popo Agie--Buffaloes--The staring white bears--The
+     smok--The warm springs--Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains--The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms--
+     Crystal lakes--Ascent of a snowy peak--Sublime prospect--A
+     panorama "Les dignes de pitie," or wild men of the mountains
+
+HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville
+and his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they
+fell upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their
+course, nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous
+droves of buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of
+beef. As the hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the
+game, two small white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path,
+and, rising upon their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a
+whimsically solemn gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the
+bears, having apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves
+upon all fours, and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon
+which the bears turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated
+their serio-comic examination. This was repeated several times, until
+the hunters, piqued at their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a
+discharge of their rifles. The bears made an awkward bound or two, as
+if wounded, and then walked off with great gravity, seeming to commune
+together, and every now and then turning to take another look at the
+hunters. It was well for the latter that the bears were but half grown,
+and had not yet acquired the ferocity of their kind.
+
+The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but
+the hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having
+secured the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after
+dark, when, encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great
+fire, roasted buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the
+whole of it with keen relish and high glee, and then "turned in" for the
+night and slept soundly, like weary and well fed hunters.
+
+At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river,
+passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful
+groves of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville
+observed a smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the
+route he was pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed
+the horses in a thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled
+cautiously up a height, from which he could overlook the scene of
+danger. Here, with a spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding
+country, but not a lodge nor fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be
+discovered; in short, the smoke which had caused such alarm proved to
+be the vapor from several warm, or rather hot springs of considerable
+magnitude, pouring forth streams in every direction over a bottom of
+white clay. One of the springs was about twenty-five yards in diameter,
+and so deep that the water was of a bright green color.
+
+They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River
+Mountains, which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round
+their southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they
+force their way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The
+mountains were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped,
+however, that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted,
+accordingly, to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the
+branches of the Popo Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of
+stupendous crags and precipices that barred all progress. Retracing
+their steps, and falling back upon the river, they consulted where to
+make another attempt. They were too close beneath the mountains to scan
+them generally, but they now recollected having noticed, from the plain,
+a beautiful slope rising, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and
+apparently without any break, until it reached the snowy region. Seeking
+this gentle acclivity, they began to ascend it with alacrity, trusting
+to find at the top one of those elevated plains which prevail among the
+Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with coarse gravel, interspersed
+with plates of freestone. They attained the summit with some toil, but
+found, instead of a level, or rather undulating plain, that they were
+on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from the bottom of which
+rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just ascended. Down
+into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged path, or
+rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second slope. They
+gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine, and now
+perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a sloping
+and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by
+frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and
+dangerous.
+
+In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly
+and sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and
+scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous
+and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded.
+Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain
+stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they
+availed themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep,
+which, however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or
+led to rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they
+were obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which
+attempt some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the
+bottom, and came near being dashed to pieces.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the
+elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were
+two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of
+stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly
+refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those
+mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander
+hundreds of miles through the plains.
+
+In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted
+to repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and
+tender herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level
+of the plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon
+another, and beetling like battlements far above them. While two of
+the men remained in the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville,
+accompanied by the other men [man], set out to climb a neighboring
+height, hoping to gain a commanding prospect, and discern some
+practicable route through this stupendous labyrinth. After much toil, he
+reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it was only to behold gigantic
+peaks rising all around, and towering far into the snowy regions of the
+atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be the highest, he crossed a
+narrow intervening valley, and began to scale it. He soon found that
+he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride of man is never more
+obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent was so steep and
+rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged to clamber on
+hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently,
+exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they threw
+themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their
+parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and
+hung them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble
+over these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool
+breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to
+their task, they at length attained the summit.
+
+Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time
+astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact,
+upon that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world;
+and on each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the
+two cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it
+was confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the
+Rocky Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn
+valleys; treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming
+torrents; while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an
+almost immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and
+hazy distance, like the expanse of a summer's sea. Whichever way he
+looked, he beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty
+streams wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy
+mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted
+like clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed
+realized: he had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior,
+after death, first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the
+happy hunting grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes
+of the free and generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while
+gazing upon this scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas
+and sensations. A long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from
+this enthralment of the mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this
+vast panorama. A simple enumeration of a few of its features may give
+some idea of its collective grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole
+Wind River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense
+mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with
+narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes
+and gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty
+tributaries to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks,
+to the south, and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river,
+called the Sweet Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the
+rugged regions of the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind
+River wandered through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current,
+they forced their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost
+to view. To the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the
+Yellowstone, that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction
+were to be seen some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing
+to the northwest, past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and
+pouring down into the great lava plain; while, almost at the captain's
+feet, the Green River, or Colorado of the West, set forth on its
+wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of California; at first a mere mountain
+torrent, dashing northward over a crag and precipice, in a succession
+of cascades, and tumbling into the plain where, expanding into an ample
+river, it circled away to the south, and after alternately shining out
+and disappearing in the mazes of the vast landscape, was finally lost
+in a horizon of mountains. The day was calm and cloudless, and the
+atmosphere so pure that objects were discernible at an astonishing
+distance. The whole of this immense area was inclosed by an outer range
+of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked on the horizon, which
+seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth.
+
+It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with
+him with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it
+as his opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American
+continent; but of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain
+that the Rocky Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was
+formerly supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest
+peak is further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr.
+Thompson, surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means
+of the barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be
+twenty-five thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only
+inferior to that of the Himalayas.
+
+For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with
+wonder and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling
+about the snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained
+the spot where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their
+coats, which were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down
+the peak, they safely rejoined their companions on the border of the
+lake.
+
+Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these
+mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out
+hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley.
+Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three
+savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call
+their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled
+the faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and
+reported what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that
+these belonged to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit
+the highest and most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie
+language, and probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have
+peculiarities of their own, which distinguish them from all other
+Indians. They are miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of
+every convenience to be derived from an intercourse with the whites.
+Their weapons are bows and stone-pointed arrows, with which they
+hunt the deer, the elk, and the mountain sheep. They are to be found
+scattered about the countries of the Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and
+Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are always in lonely places, and
+the clefts of the rocks.
+
+Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary
+valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried
+among the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still
+more rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their
+dread of strangers.
+
+As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are
+inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare:
+should one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he
+is sure to be made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a
+scalp, and that barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings,
+forming a mere link between human nature and the brute, have been looked
+down upon with pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have
+given them the appellation of "les dignes de pitie," or "the objects
+of pity."; They appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the
+mountains.
+
+
+
+
+26.
+
+     A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent--Alpine
+     scenery--Cascades--Beaver valleys--Beavers at work--Their
+     architecture--Their modes of felling trees--Mode of trapping
+     beaver--Contests of skill--A beaver "up to trap"--Arrival at
+     the Green River caches
+
+THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had
+excited Captain Bonneville's enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would
+be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers
+of cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he
+endeavored to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round
+the southern point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself
+from the heart of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as
+to penetrate it. Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream,
+the commencement of some future river, he descended from rock to rock,
+and shelf to shelf, between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that
+sprang up to the sky. Often he had to cross and recross the rushing
+torrent, as it wound foaming and roaring down its broken channel, or
+was walled by perpendicular precipices; and imminent was the hazard of
+breaking the legs of the horses in the clefts and fissures of slippery
+rocks. The whole scenery of this deep ravine was of Alpine wildness
+and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers passed beneath cascades which
+pitched from such lofty heights that the water fell into the stream like
+heavy rain. In other places, torrents came tumbling from crag to crag,
+dashing into foam and spray, and making tremendous din and uproar.
+
+On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond
+the steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged
+ravine began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and
+the stream to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character.
+Here, not merely the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it,
+was dammed up by communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate
+the neighborhood, and make continual swamps.
+
+During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville
+left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to
+reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and
+caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work
+upon the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold
+the mode of operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward,
+therefore, with the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water
+willows without making any noise, until having attained a position
+commanding a view of the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the
+ground, and watched the solitary workman. In a little while, three
+others appeared at the head of the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With
+these they proceeded directly to the barrier, which Captain Bonneville
+perceived was in need of repair. Having deposited their loads upon the
+broken part, they dived into the water, and shortly reappeared at the
+surface. Each now brought a quantity of mud, with which he would plaster
+the sticks and bushes just deposited. This kind of masonry was continued
+for some time, repeated supplies of wood and mud being brought, and
+treated in the same manner. This done, the industrious beavers indulged
+in a little recreation, chasing each other about the pond, dodging and
+whisking about on the surface, or diving to the bottom; and in their
+frolic, often slapping their tails on the water with a loud clacking
+sound. While they were thus amusing themselves, another of the
+fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their sports for
+some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed the bank
+close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on his
+hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young
+pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would
+tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining
+his sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of
+a monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down
+the tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by
+the approach of Captain Bonneville's men, who, feeling anxious at the
+protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the
+sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived
+at once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain
+Bonneville regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the
+sagacity of the beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said,
+they manage to make them fall into the water, and in such a position and
+direction as may be most favorable for conveyance to the desired point.
+In the present instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it
+grew perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the
+beaver could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really
+capable of exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently
+engaged in "belting" the tree, and his first incision had been on the
+side nearest to the water.
+
+Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged
+sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has
+no other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle
+calculation as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he
+thinks, has been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees
+growing near water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or
+stretch their largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space,
+the light, and the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks
+those trees which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or
+pond. He makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them
+with his teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in
+which their trunks or branches preponderate.
+
+"I have often," says Captain Bonneville, "seen trees measuring eighteen
+inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the
+beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently
+for the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do
+they at times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on
+Snake River, a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which
+he had made, the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until
+he died."
+
+Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by
+the beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter
+provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this
+business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited.
+Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the
+branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into
+lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to
+their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious
+of cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts,
+will carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw
+them into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of
+their territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange
+beaver to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence
+as almost to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the
+breeding season, the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a
+tour of pleasure, rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself
+in every clear and quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing
+the banks occasionally to feast upon the tender sprouts of the young
+willows. As summer advances, he gives up his bachelor rambles, and
+bethinking himself of housekeeping duties, returns home to his mate and
+his new progeny, and marshals them all for the foraging expedition in
+quest of winter provisions.
+
+After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal
+as a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as
+the father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is
+environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household.
+
+Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to
+the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he
+can detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the
+lodge may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can
+generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of
+its inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the
+shore, in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of
+the water, and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A
+small twig is then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the
+"medicine," as the trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ.
+This end of the stick rises about four inches above the surface of
+the water, the other end is planted between the jaws of the trap. The
+beaver, possessing an acute sense of smell, is soon attracted by the
+odor of the bait. As he raises his nose toward it, his foot is caught
+in the trap. In his fright he throws a somerset into the deep water. The
+trap, being fastened to the pole, resists all his efforts to drag it
+to the shore; the chain by which it is fastened defies his teeth; he
+struggles for a time, and at length sinks to the bottom and is drowned.
+
+Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is
+thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened
+by the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he
+is entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however,
+it costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming,
+before he finds his game.
+
+Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are
+trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and
+can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the trapper's phrase for
+"taking the bait." In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the
+bait, and conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of
+the household. The beaver now being completely "up to trap," approaches
+them cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other
+times, he turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and
+occasionally even drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the
+mud. The trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering
+his traps, marches off, admitting that he is not yet "up to beaver."
+
+On the day following Captain Bonneville's supervision of the industrious
+and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying
+an account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River
+Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend
+to the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived
+without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous
+in Green River valley, on the 17th of September.
+
+He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods
+and equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the
+necessary supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all
+traces that might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders.
+
+
+
+
+27.
+
+     Route toward--Wind River--Dangerous neighborhood--Alarms and
+     precautions--A sham encampment--Apparition of an Indian spy--
+     Midnight move--A mountain defile--The Wind River valley--
+     Tracking a party--Deserted camps--Symptoms of Crows--Meeting
+     of comrades--A trapper entrapped--Crow pleasantry--Crow
+     spies--A decampment--Return to Green River valley--Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick's party--Their adventures among the Crows--
+     Orthodox Crows
+
+ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions
+set out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had
+parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with
+that stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River
+Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile
+which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains,
+to the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party,
+according to arrangement.
+
+We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood,
+infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous
+defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and
+surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything
+that might give intimation of lurking danger.
+
+About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill,
+they discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction.
+One of the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was
+concluded, therefore, that there was some party of Indians below,
+hunting the buffalo.
+
+The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the
+captain, mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view,
+reconnoitred the whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was
+to be seen; so, after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey.
+Convinced, however, that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced
+with the utmost caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines,
+and avoiding, as much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground,
+that might betray his little party to the watchful eye of an Indian
+scout.
+
+Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering
+on the river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see,
+scampering in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his
+companions remained for a long time watching the various groups of the
+animals, as each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in
+vain to discover the cause.
+
+They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green
+River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore,
+arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and
+convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they
+again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction.
+
+It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping
+for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville,
+therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for
+encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently
+dark, to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some
+secluded spot for their night's lodgings.
+
+Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made
+a large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when
+sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting
+off huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter's
+appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to
+attract the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they
+trusted to be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place.
+While they were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party
+suddenly started up and shouted "Indians!" All were instantly on their
+feet, with their rifles in their hands; but could see no enemy. The
+man, however, declared that he had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously,
+along the trail which they had made in coming to the encampment; who,
+the moment he was perceived, had thrown himself on the ground, and
+disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville instantly to decamp. The
+captain, however, took the matter more coolly. The single fact, that the
+Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced him that he was not
+one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He was, probably, some
+scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came in sight of their
+fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he had seen to his
+companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped for the night,
+would keep aloof until very late, when all should be asleep. They would,
+then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy approaches, and
+place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their attack, at the
+usual hour of daylight.
+
+Such was Captain Bonneville's conclusion; in consequence of which, he
+counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from
+all alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly,
+continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then
+trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon,
+however, as the night had completely set in, they left their fire
+blazing; walked quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their
+saddles, made off as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left
+the point of danger behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious
+taciturnity, and began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they
+pictured to themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted
+fire, waiting for the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand
+disappointment.
+
+About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure
+distance, they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the
+enemy should follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a
+dense and matted thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of
+the mountain, instead of making for the summit, as they had originally
+intended.
+
+A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches
+morsels of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when
+surrounded by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for
+sleep with perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and
+cook, it is true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come
+to a halt, and have provisions. They comforted themselves, however,
+by smoking a tranquil pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning
+loose the horses, stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that
+whoever should first awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while
+were all as sound asleep as though in the midst of a fortress.
+
+A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for
+Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at
+a little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or
+hear an enemy.
+
+With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them
+to the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the
+sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into
+their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the
+mountain, avoiding the direct route.
+
+At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course
+so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now
+made sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were
+tracks of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had
+recently returned, baffled in their search.
+
+Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken
+before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they
+pushed briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they
+cautiously concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains.
+
+Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of
+Wind River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed
+the rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the
+Crow country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of
+that restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon
+a trail which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old,
+however, that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood;
+driven off, perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the
+prowl. He continued his search with great anxiety, and no little
+fatigue; for his horses were jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced
+marches and scramblings through rocky defiles.
+
+On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a
+deserted camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned
+back; but he could find no signs to indicate why they had done so;
+whether they had met with misfortune, or molestation, or in what
+direction they had gone. He was now, more than ever, perplexed.
+
+On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The
+feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the
+rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About
+noon, he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost
+their trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a
+southerly direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains,
+which towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible
+speed, in hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another
+of their camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day
+dawned sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that
+must be dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were
+traces of Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his
+people had passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about
+them. Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great
+distance, he mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to
+overtake them, to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt,
+until he should rejoin them.
+
+In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with
+six comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his
+accommodation; and on the following day (September 25th), all hands
+were once more reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their
+meeting was hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and
+perplexities.
+
+The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had
+been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they
+had been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their
+horses had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so
+closely beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest
+they should be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had
+caused such perplexity to Captain Bonneville.
+
+The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give
+repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued
+their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was
+setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up,
+beheld a party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a
+considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was
+discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells,
+they dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their
+tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave
+himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather
+than a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while,
+at the expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow
+pranks and pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true,
+they stripped him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun,
+a third his traps, a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his
+accoutrements, and even his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then
+they generously made him a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and
+dismissed him, with many complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When
+the trapper returned to the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted
+with peals of laughter from his comrades and seemed more mortified by
+the style in which he had been dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with
+his life. A circumstance which he related to Captain Bonneville, gave
+some insight into the cause of this extreme jocularity on the part
+of the Crows. They had evidently had a run of luck, and, like winning
+gamblers, were in high good humor. Among twenty-six fine horses, and
+some mules, which composed their cavalcade, the trapper recognized a
+number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick's brigade, when they parted
+company on the Bighorn. It was supposed, therefore, that these vagabonds
+had been on his trail, and robbed him of part of his cavalry.
+
+On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain
+Bonneville's camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air
+imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern,
+in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of
+the set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band,
+they were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his
+usual kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the
+camp, and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he
+caused a strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at
+night, stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated
+against the latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect
+them to be spies, who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his
+precautions. At the same time, he assured his guests, that while they
+were perfectly welcome to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet,
+should any of their tribe venture to approach during the night, they
+would certainly be shot; which would be a very unfortunate circumstance,
+and much to be deplored. To the latter remark, they fully assented; and
+shortly afterward commenced a wild song, or chant, which they kept up
+for a long time, and in which they very probably gave their friends, who
+might be prowling round the camp, notice that the white men were on the
+alert. The night passed away without disturbance. In the morning, the
+three Crow guests were very pressing that Captain Bonneville and his
+party should accompany them to their camp, which they said was close
+by. Instead of accepting their invitation, Captain Bonneville took his
+departure with all possible dispatch, eager to be out of the vicinity
+of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the diligence of his march,
+until, on the second day, he reached the banks of the Sweet Water,
+beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall of snow had
+obliterated all traces of his course.
+
+He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point
+of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches,
+on the 14th of October.
+
+Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the
+defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of
+them on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back
+their trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they
+had discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but
+fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions,
+and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville
+discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than
+ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a
+formidable band of freebooters.
+
+He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on
+the 25th of October reached Liberge's Ford, a tributary of the Colorado,
+where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which
+had crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the
+water that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they
+could not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the
+Crow nation.
+
+Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force
+should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of
+fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane's Fork, another
+tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the
+26th of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed
+it to arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to
+procure information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band
+of Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party
+of trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of
+his fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain
+Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap
+upon Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with
+him, and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not
+pass through the Crow country without attracting the attention of its
+freebooting hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces,
+and came up with them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached
+Tongue River. The Crow chief came forward with great appearance
+of friendship, and proposed to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp
+together. The latter, however, not having any faith in Crows, declined
+the invitation, and pitched his camp three miles off. He then rode over
+with two or three men, to visit the Crow chief, by whom he was received
+with great apparent cordiality. In the meantime, however, a party of
+young braves, who considered them absolved by his distrust from all
+scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and dashed into his
+encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the absence of
+Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too numerous
+and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made booty
+of every thing--carrying off all the horses. On their way back they met
+Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by rifling
+and nearly stripping him.
+
+A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the
+triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of,
+we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain
+to return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles
+and a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all
+speed to abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh
+disasters.
+
+After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows
+pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out
+of their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation
+of the Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about
+him on his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and
+mules. It was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely
+trapper on the Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in
+exchange for his rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these
+anecdotes, we shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and
+its vagabond chivalry.
+
+
+
+
+28.
+
+     A region of natural curiosities--The plain of white clay--
+     Hot springs--The Beer Spring--Departure to seek the free
+     trappers--Plain of Portneuf--Lava--Chasms and gullies--
+     Bannack Indians--Their hunt of the buffalo--Hunter's feast--
+     Trencher heroes--Bullying of an absent foe--The damp
+     comrade--The Indian spy--Meeting with Hodgkiss--His
+     adventures--Poordevil Indians--Triumph of the Bannacks--
+     Blackfeet policy in war
+
+CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear
+River, which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake,
+describes the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters
+of this river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never
+been visited by the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being
+barricadoed [sic] by fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices.
+
+Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November,
+at the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three
+miles in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and
+connected with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the
+Little Lake, to distinguish it from the great one of salt water.
+
+On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the
+neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area
+of about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or
+fuller's earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian
+marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful
+at all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in
+autumn, when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the
+withered herbage. Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like
+a mirror, set in the brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered
+numerous springs of various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of
+scalding heat, boils furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of
+two or three feet. In another place, there is an aperture in the earth,
+from which rushes a column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The
+ground for some distance around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary
+trapper, as he hears the tramp of his horse giving the sound of a
+muffled drum. He pictures to himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of
+hidden fires, and gazes round him with awe and uneasiness.
+
+The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer
+Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn
+aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with
+as much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert.
+Captain Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men
+drank it with avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him
+to possess any medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects.
+The Indians, however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the
+white men from doing so.
+
+We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as
+containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the
+properties of the Ballston water.
+
+The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the
+party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the
+command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River.
+His intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at
+present travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the
+winter. Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave
+of his band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by
+three men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain
+of the Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an
+unfortunate Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country
+through which he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and
+conflagrations in the olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered
+about in every direction; the crags and cliffs had apparently been under
+the action of fire; the rocks in some places seemed to have been in
+a state of fusion; the plain was rent and split with deep chasms and
+gullies, some of which were partly filled with lava.
+
+They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of
+horsemen, galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and
+made full speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves
+among the trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came
+forward alone. He reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they
+were dismounting and about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all
+uneasiness. It was a party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to
+the whites, and they proposed, through their envoy, that both parties
+should encamp together, and hunt the buffalo, of which they had
+discovered several large herds hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully
+assented to their proposition, being curious to see their manner of
+hunting.
+
+Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and
+prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill
+near the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The "runners," then,
+as they are called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and
+arrows, moved slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much
+as possible out of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper
+distance, a signal was given, and they all opened at once like a pack
+of hounds, with a full chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the
+herds, and launching their arrows to the right and left. The plain
+seemed absolutely to shake under the tramp of the buffalo, as they
+scoured off. The cows in headlong panic, the bulls furious with rage,
+uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning with a desperate rush upon
+their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the spirit, grace, and dexterity,
+with which the Indians managed their horses; wheeling and coursing among
+the affrighted herd, and launching their arrows with unerring aim. In
+the midst of the apparent confusion, they selected their victims with
+perfect judgment, generally aiming at the fattest of the cows, the flesh
+of the bull being nearly worthless, at this season of the year. In a few
+minutes, each of the hunters had crippled three or four cows. A single
+shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the animal, once maimed, was
+left to be completely dispatched at the end of the chase. Frequently, a
+cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In one instance, Captain
+Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely through the body of
+a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The bulls, however, are
+not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the hunter several
+arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and chasing them
+furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still sticking in
+their flesh.
+
+The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to
+dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the
+carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the
+choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters'
+feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified,
+by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor.
+
+Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed
+to be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they
+crammed themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the
+supper at an end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their
+mighty deeds, and the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet.
+Warming with the theme, and inflating themselves with their own
+eulogies, these magnanimous heroes of the trencher would start up,
+advance a short distance beyond the light of the fire, and apostrophize
+most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as though they had been within
+hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting, and slapping their
+breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would vociferate all their
+exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had drenched their towns in
+tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had inflicted, the warriors
+they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in triumph. Then, having
+said everything that could stir a man's spleen or pique his valor, they
+would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the Bannacks were few
+in number, to come and take their revenge--receiving no reply to
+this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of sneers and
+insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons, that
+dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and
+rhodomontade in which the "red men" are prone to indulge in their
+vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are
+vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and
+to sound their own trumpet.
+
+Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack
+braves gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their
+ruffled feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a
+single guard over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at
+their word, but few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any
+further boasting.
+
+On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of
+buffalo meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing,
+were in fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of
+almost everything that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain
+concluded, the Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated,
+they said, at the mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his
+companions shaped their course toward Snake River.
+
+Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous,
+but not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the
+horses was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from
+the saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were
+extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely
+drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While
+they were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived
+an Indian scout cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a
+neighboring hill. The moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared
+behind the hill. From his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville
+suspected him to be a scout from the Blackfeet camp, and that he had
+gone to report what he had seen to his companions. It would not do
+to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the kindling of the fire was
+abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in dripping condition, and the
+little band pushed forward directly into the plain, going at a smart
+pace, until they had gained a considerable distance from the place of
+supposed danger. Here encamping for the night, in the midst of abundance
+of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for their horses, they
+kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp comrade, and then
+proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps and ribs, and
+other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a hearty
+repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they
+stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry
+canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and
+well-fed mountaineers.
+
+They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident
+worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the
+party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie,
+and deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to
+discover by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that
+the trappers had left them; at length, after much wandering and
+investigating, they came upon the regular trail of the hunting party,
+which led into the mountains, and following it up briskly, came about
+two o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th, upon the encampment of
+Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, in the bosom of a mountain
+valley.
+
+It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters
+of themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain
+Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July,
+preferring to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River,
+where they expected to find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous
+neighborhood. Their hunt had not been very successful. They had
+penetrated the great range of mountains among which some of the upper
+branches of Salmon River take their rise, but had become so entangled
+among immense and almost impassable barricades of fallen pines, and so
+impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great part of their season had
+been wasted among these mountains. At one time, they had made their way
+through them, and reached the Boisee River; but meeting with a band of
+Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended hostilities, they had again
+taken shelter among the mountains, where they were found by Captain
+Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment, the captain had the
+good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers of the mountains,
+emphatically called "les dignes de pitie," or Poordevil Indians. These,
+however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had with them
+a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep. These,
+Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and sent
+them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy to
+all their pitiful tribe.
+
+Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain
+Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out
+to rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might
+all go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered
+many heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to
+impede his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party,
+encamped at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt
+with the Bannacks.
+
+That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were
+just then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever,
+celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their
+braves being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet
+moving, as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks
+immediately posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through
+which the enemy must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst
+of it, attacked them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden
+panic, threw off their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their
+warriors dead on the spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils;
+but their greatest prize was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they
+bore off in triumph to their village, where it had ever since been an
+object of the greatest exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated
+upon a pole in the centre of the village, where the warriors had
+celebrated the scalp dance round it, with war feasts, war songs, and
+warlike harangues. It had then been given up to the women and boys; who
+had paraded it up and down the village with shouts and chants and antic
+dances; occasionally saluting it with all kinds of taunts, invectives,
+and revilings.
+
+The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the
+character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed,
+their conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of
+inconsistencies; at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless
+of danger; at another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand
+these apparent incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare.
+A war party, however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight,
+bring back a cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over
+the glory of their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce
+and reckless in general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and
+the chiefs are checked in their boldest undertakings by the fear of
+sacrificing their warriors.
+
+This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages,
+says Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades,
+though they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious
+victory, will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning
+home with dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and
+wait until the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to
+mingle again with their people.
+
+
+
+
+29.
+
+     Winter camp at the Portneuf--Fine springs--The Bannack
+     Indians--Their honesty--Captain--Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition--Christmas--The American--Falls--Wild scenery--
+     Fishing Falls--Snake Indians--Scenery on the Bruneau--View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain--Powder River--
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers--Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs--Vanity at its last shift
+
+IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville
+had drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid
+all annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however,
+he had been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the
+flat land, where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing
+better for his horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the
+contrary, were encamped among fine springs of water, where there was
+grass in abundance. Some of these springs gush out of the earth in
+sufficient quantity to turn a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear
+as crystal, and full of trout of a large size, which may be seen darting
+about the transparent water.
+
+Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in
+large quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the
+continued coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
+
+By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and
+the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good
+will. A few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their
+friends; nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and
+good faith of their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and
+the want of fodder obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam
+in quest of sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the
+Bannacks, they were immediately brought back. It must be confessed,
+however, that if the stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in
+vigorous plight and good condition, though he was equally sure to be
+returned by the honest Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of
+several days, and in a very gaunt and jaded state; and always with the
+remark that they had found him a long way off. The uncharitable were apt
+to surmise that he had, in the interim, been well used up in a
+buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to Indian morality in the matter of
+horseflesh, considered it a singular evidence of honesty that he should
+be brought back at all.
+
+Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that
+his people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as
+they were valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter
+unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition
+of great extent and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson's
+Bay establishments on the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself
+acquainted with the country and the Indian tribes; it being one part of
+his scheme to establish a trading post somewhere on the lower part of
+the river, so as to participate in the trade lost to the United States
+by the capture of Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him
+through the Snake River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the
+scenes of so much hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their
+Astorian bands, who first explored it, and he would have to pass through
+it in the same frightful season, the depth of winter.
+
+The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the
+adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his
+journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form,
+and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He
+proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter
+encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed,
+he mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three
+comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their
+Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one,
+after which they resumed their journey.
+
+They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow
+had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed
+and frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route
+lay to the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were
+several days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the
+river, for a considerable distance, both above and below the falls,
+have a volcanic character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon
+another; the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling
+through narrow channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges
+of basaltic columns.
+
+Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable
+stream, called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four
+miles wide, where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and
+dryness of the climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream
+there is a small mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite,
+in small blocks, is likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white
+sandstone. From this river, the travellers had a prospect of the snowy
+heights of the Salmon River Mountains to the north; the nearest, at
+least fifty miles distant.
+
+In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept
+several miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary
+streams; though he often found the open country so encumbered by
+volcanic rocks, as to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he
+approached Snake River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with
+steep, perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days' travel
+across a level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him
+with astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the
+river was walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty
+feet high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and
+fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and
+whirling current. Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade
+above forty feet in height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume
+of spray that hung in the air like a silver mist. These are called
+by some the Fishing Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense
+quantities. They cannot get by these falls.
+
+After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise,
+descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in
+the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the
+only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream.
+
+The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their
+travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were
+foot tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their
+progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region;
+a timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life.
+Their dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed
+of strips of rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their
+shoulders, in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their
+weapons were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which
+abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and
+constructed of branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to
+be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small
+inclosures of wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them
+a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of these tenements were
+occasionally grouped together in some wild and striking situation, and
+had a picturesque effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number
+to form a small hamlet. From these people, Captain Bonneville's party
+frequently purchased salmon, dried in an admirable manner, as were
+likewise the roes. This seemed to be their prime article of food; but
+they were extremely anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange.
+
+The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long
+inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were
+enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the
+river.
+
+Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery
+of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character.
+The rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small
+streams come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines:
+one of a considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within
+twenty-five feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal
+line for about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to
+the rocky bank of the river.
+
+In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is
+upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water.
+Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other
+times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild
+and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of
+plashing waters.
+
+Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness
+and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is
+particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a
+valley, extending upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it
+on a sudden, in traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw
+a stone across from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand
+feet deep: so that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream.
+Basaltic rocks rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get
+from the plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The
+current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of
+this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in
+a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor.
+
+We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains
+and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before
+us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this
+summit, the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops
+of the hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and
+appear to have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys
+to be formed by the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the
+hills. Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and
+brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them. All
+these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of
+the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either absorbed by their
+thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the lava, or swallowed up in
+gulfs and chasms.
+
+On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River;
+much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He
+struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he
+found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river,
+and in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance
+in considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity
+respecting the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed
+to the bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the
+strangers, and watching every movement. These are of that branch of
+the great Snake tribe called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their
+subsisting, in a great measure, on the roots of the earth; though they
+likewise take fish in great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They
+are, in general, very poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life,
+and extremely indolent: but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in
+many respects, from the other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies;
+who possess horses, are more roving and adventurous, and hunt the
+buffalo.
+
+On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth
+of Powder River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these
+Diggers, as they are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The
+women and children kept at a distance, perched among the rocks and
+cliffs; their eager curiosity being somewhat dashed with fear. From
+their elevated posts, they scrutinized the strangers with the most
+intense earnestness; regarding them with almost as much awe as if they
+had been beings of a supernatural order.
+
+The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned
+Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity.
+Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands
+on underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive
+neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before
+they encamped for the night.
+
+The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very
+little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The
+plains were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were,
+about the same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they
+resembled the isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky
+Mountains; especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas.
+
+The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake
+River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It
+should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the
+Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending
+on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by
+unbroken ridges of mountains.
+
+The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder
+River, though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a
+lesson, however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which
+they subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings.
+They frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted
+from the bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying
+it always lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would
+gather together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an
+instant produce a cheering blaze.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these
+Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. "They
+live," says he, "without any further protection from the inclemency
+of the season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high,
+composed of sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape
+of a half moon." Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a
+large suite of half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well
+as in civilized life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
+
+These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs
+of cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of
+the neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel
+kind of chase they acquitted themselves with some credit.
+
+Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping
+the antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which
+this is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared,
+says Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into
+the thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities,
+construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a
+hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game.
+This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait
+patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
+spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women
+give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them
+enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round
+the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way
+the hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a
+continued pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor
+antelopes, in the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men
+enter and dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered
+the inclosure. The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an
+animal so fleet and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life,
+should range round and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to
+overleap the low barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to
+be the fact; and such their only mode of hunting the antelope.
+
+Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their
+habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the
+Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture
+good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found
+in their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of
+basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid
+of a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on
+which they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities
+of seed, of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the
+plants into wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected
+is winnowed and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of
+meal or flour; which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable
+paste or gruel.
+
+Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay
+up a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they
+were ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in
+Indian life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife,
+or a fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and
+starvation; and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers
+threw away after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick
+them with the greatest avidity.
+
+The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these
+Root Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn
+condition. "They were destitute," says he, "of the necessary covering
+to protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most
+unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the
+use of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a
+thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead."
+
+What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity!
+Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to
+arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a
+mirror. It was a "great medicine," in their eyes. The sight of one was
+sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and
+delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest
+fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this
+simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall
+close our remarks on the Root Diggers.
+
+
+
+
+30.
+
+     Temperature of the climate--Root Diggers on horseback--An
+     Indian guide--Mountain prospects--The Grand Rond--
+     Difficulties on Snake River--A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains--Sufferings from hunger--Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley--The exhausted traveller
+
+THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much
+milder than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper
+plains, however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are
+subject in winter to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty
+"sierras," crowned with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and
+streaks of intense cold This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and
+his companions in their progress westward. At the time when they left
+the Bannacks Snake River was frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice
+became broken and floating; it gradually disappeared, and the weather
+became warm and pleasant, as they approached a tributary stream called
+the Little Wyer; and the soil, which was generally of a watery clay,
+with occasional intervals of sand, was soft to the tread of the horses.
+After a time, however, the mountains approached and flanked the
+river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and the current was once more
+icebound.
+
+Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently
+rising in the world, for they had "horse to ride and weapon to wear,"
+and were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that
+Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee
+River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided
+as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these
+they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits
+[sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that
+tribe their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their
+manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings;
+for Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their
+hands, and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable
+custom. From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish,
+and an excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had
+become too weak for the journey.
+
+The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it
+is true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on
+merrily, considering themselves well provided for the journey, which
+could not be of much longer duration.
+
+They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which
+flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives
+that the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised
+them to keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the
+snow. Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the
+river, and to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as
+had been predicted, so that their horses once more had the benefit of
+tolerable pasturage. Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging
+cheerily in the advance. He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer
+and a beaver; but at night found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted
+the occupant, upon which, with the addition of a fish given him by the
+travellers, he made a hearty supper, and retired to rest, filled with
+good cheer and good humor.
+
+The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the
+river, leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The
+river was sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The
+Digger kept on ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river
+in pursuit of game, until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he
+stole off with him, without the ceremony of leave-taking.
+
+Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some
+Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different
+from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce
+language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These
+Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small
+quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides.
+
+Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which
+they ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was
+grand but disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks
+of Immahah, rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they
+stood: on the other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the
+river, dashing along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices,
+until lost in a distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage
+landscape.
+
+They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious
+eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to
+discover some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them
+to give up the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night.
+Moving briskly forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of
+deep snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers
+as the "Grand Rond," which they found entirely free from snow.
+
+This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and
+five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace,
+or Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in
+mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when
+the elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by
+the snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come
+to it in the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces
+immense quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is
+tinted by its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a
+cloud.
+
+After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning
+scaled the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route
+than that upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much
+reconnoitring, determined to make their way once more to the river, and
+to travel upon the ice when the banks should prove impassable.
+
+On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake
+River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice.
+A narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of
+bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time,
+they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length
+came to where the river forced its way into the heart of the
+mountains, winding between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose
+perpendicularly from the water's edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy
+grandeur. Here difficulties of all kinds beset their path. The snow was
+from two to three feet deep, but soft and yielding, so that the horses
+had no foothold, but kept plunging forward, straining themselves by
+perpetual efforts. Sometimes the crags and promontories forced them upon
+the narrow riband of ice that bordered the shore; sometimes they had to
+scramble over vast masses of rock which had tumbled from the impending
+precipices; sometimes they had to cross the stream upon the hazardous
+bridges of ice and snow, sinking to the knee at every step; sometimes
+they had to scale slippery acclivities, and to pass along narrow
+cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a shouldering wall of rock on one
+side, a yawning precipice on the other, where a single false step would
+have been fatal. In a lower and less dangerous pass, two of their horses
+actually fell into the river; one was saved with much difficulty, but
+the boldness of the shore prevented their rescuing the other, and he was
+swept away by the rapid current.
+
+In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and
+dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to
+a mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further
+progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to
+cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit,
+found their path closed by insurmountable barriers.
+
+Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged
+mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it.
+They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep;
+and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing,
+to aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as
+the poor animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy
+declivities. Thus, after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant
+toil, amidst the wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to
+reach the camping ground, from which they had started in the morning,
+and for the first time in the course of their rugged and perilous
+expedition, felt their hearts quailing under their multiplied hardships.
+
+A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night's sleep, put
+them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as
+to their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked
+a small ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was
+determined to scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which
+must lie beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained.
+To kill their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of
+the hides, and, in these, commit themselves to the stream--a measure
+hazardous in the extreme.
+
+A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep
+and cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling
+it was by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed
+a succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they
+wrought their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag
+course, climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after
+them; which scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then
+dislodging some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would
+roll down the mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It
+was some time after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the
+summit of the mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds,
+which swept this naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley
+beneath, so that the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the
+dry grass which remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the
+extreme, were fain to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their
+journey was likely to be prolonged much beyond the anticipated term.
+
+In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at
+a great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the
+mountain. It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height,
+running parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to
+lofty peaks, but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines.
+This, in fact, was a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the
+first adventurers to Astoria experienced such hardships.
+
+We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this
+tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed
+themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had
+they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only
+to the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend
+the southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow,
+so as to render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and
+horses continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow
+lay in such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down
+which the horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was
+impeded by tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in
+every direction.
+
+In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out.
+For three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could
+scarcely drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about
+to give out from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him.
+Husbanding this miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three
+days subsisted upon the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the
+meat, it was packed and preserved as long as they could do without it,
+not knowing how long they might remain bewildered in these desolate
+regions.
+
+One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and
+to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime,
+the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the
+scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately
+below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling;
+that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them
+in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it
+without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the
+mountain ridge to the left.
+
+Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps;
+and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of
+the severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they
+toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through
+the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit,
+where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side,
+they were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and
+ravines.
+
+Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost
+ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as
+the sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came
+to the brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the
+Immahah stretched out in smiling verdure below them.
+
+The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor,
+they forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain,
+dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them
+to slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they
+reached the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to
+sprout, and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and
+repose, heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which
+they had just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian
+trails along the margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them
+reason to believe that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces
+in the neighborhood, as it was within the accustomed range of that
+pacific and hospitable tribe.
+
+The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and
+they continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their
+steeds would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the
+rest, threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further.
+It was in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and
+his replies only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions,
+therefore, encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched
+about for roots with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then
+made a starveling repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past
+dangers and troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all
+were now at an end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the
+morrow would bring them into plentiful quarters.
+
+
+
+
+31.
+
+     Progress in the valley--An Indian cavalier--The captain
+     falls into a lethargy--A Nez-Perce patriarch--Hospitable
+     treatment--The bald head--Bargaining--Value of an old plaid
+     cloak--The family horse--The cost of an Indian present
+
+A TRANQUIL NIGHT'S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down
+traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set
+forward on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within
+reach of succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that
+they advanced but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they
+should almost have lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th
+of February) fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst
+of winter, exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for
+the last twenty days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate
+labyrinths of the snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy
+precipices, and nearly starved with cold and hunger.
+
+All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without
+seeing a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about
+noon, they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly
+toward them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed,
+came to a halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great
+earnestness, seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made
+signs of peace, and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him
+to approach. He remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having
+satisfied himself that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them.
+He was a fine, haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted
+on a high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was
+evident that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe.
+His whole deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt,
+perhaps, his temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit
+of his steed, to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their
+half-starved horses. Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave
+them his hand, and, in the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp,
+which was only a few miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and
+plenty of horses, and would cheerfully share his good things with them.
+
+His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a
+moment, to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then,
+wheeling round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon
+out of sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a
+snail's pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after
+the other. Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and
+singular change of feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his
+party, and of providing against every emergency, had kept his mind upon
+the stretch, and his whole system braced and excited. In no one instance
+had he flagged in spirit, or felt disposed to succumb. Now, however,
+that all danger was over, and the march of a few miles would bring them
+to repose and abundance, his energies suddenly deserted him; and every
+faculty, mental and physical, was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded
+two miles from the point where he had had the interview with the Nez
+Perce chief, when he threw himself upon the earth, without the power
+or will to move a muscle, or exert a thought, and sank almost instantly
+into a profound and dreamless sleep. His companions again came to a
+halt, and encamped beside him, and there they passed the night.
+
+The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy
+sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress.
+They had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce
+tribe came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them
+to their camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into
+their languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of
+the Nez Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together,
+under the patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He
+received them with the hospitality of the golden age, and with something
+of the same kind of fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them
+welcome, the only repast he set before them consisted of roots. They
+could have wished for something more hearty and substantial; but, for
+want of better, made a voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast
+being over, the best pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a
+most welcome luxury, having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days
+before, among the mountains.
+
+While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to
+the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to
+revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than
+their masters.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet,
+inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper
+Nez Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of
+expression, and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he
+was well known among them, by report, at least, from the constant
+interchange of visits and messages between the two branches of the
+tribe. They at first addressed him by his name; giving him his title of
+captain, with a French accent: but they soon gave him a title of their
+own; which, as usual with Indian titles, had a peculiar signification.
+In the case of the captain, it had somewhat of a whimsical origin.
+
+As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would
+occasionally take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation
+in the surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their
+recumbent posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual
+exclamation of astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a
+phenomenon very surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know
+whether he had been scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity
+from that belligerent infliction. In a little while, he became
+known among them by an Indian name, signifying "the bald chief." "A
+sobriquet," observes the captain, "for which I can find no parallel in
+history since the days of 'Charles the Bald.'"
+
+Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled
+with tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In
+approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond
+anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still
+haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen
+appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight's fasting, at
+length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged
+some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however,
+were slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited;
+but were ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced
+excellent food. At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of
+attaining the much-coveted gratification.
+
+He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling
+companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the
+snows and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to
+tarnish its primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the
+admiration, and inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws,
+to an extravagant degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville,
+to convert this rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired.
+There was a momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and
+projected indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was
+made, he says, with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and
+sentiment might have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was
+cut into numerous strips. "Of these," continues he, "with the newly
+developed talent of a man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a
+la Turque, and fanciful head-gears of divers conformations. These,
+judiciously distributed among such of the womenkind as seemed of most
+consequence and interest in the eyes of the patres conscripti, brought
+us, in a little while, abundance of dried salmon and deers' hearts; on
+which we made a sumptuous supper. Another, and a more satisfactory
+smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet slumbers answering the peaceful
+invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in that delicious rest, which is
+only won by toil and travail." As to Captain Bonneville, he slept in
+the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had evidently conceived a most
+disinterested affection for him; as was shown on the following morning.
+The travellers, invigorated by a good supper, and "fresh from the bath
+of repose," were about to resume their journey, when this affectionate
+old chief took the captain aside, to let him know how much he loved him.
+As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give him a fine horse,
+which would go further than words, and put his good will beyond all
+question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a beautiful young
+horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting, to the place.
+Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of friendship; but
+his experience in what is proverbially called "Indian giving," made him
+aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own part, to prove that
+his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed a handsome
+rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent heart was
+evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign of
+amity.
+
+Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship,
+the captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when
+the affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to
+him a whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have
+passed for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. "This," said he, "is
+my wife; she is a good wife--I love her very much.--She loves the
+horse--she loves him a great deal--she will cry very much at losing
+him.--I do not know how I shall comfort her--and that makes my heart
+very sore."
+
+What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old
+squaw, and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain
+lecture? He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the
+patriarch's better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to
+put personal vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity
+extinct? The moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering
+and whining of the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed
+the precious baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of
+Endor, went off with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she
+had been a perfect Semiramis.
+
+The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was
+in the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward,
+and presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky
+look. "This," said the venerable chief, "is my son: he is very good; a
+great horseman--he always took care of this very fine horse--he brought
+him up from a colt, and made him what he is.--He is very fond of this
+fine horse--he loves him like a brother--his heart will be very heavy
+when this fine horse leaves the camp."
+
+What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable
+pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse?
+He bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender
+stores. No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young
+hopeful, than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing
+in his hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her
+ear-bobs.
+
+The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the
+affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and,
+while he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the
+rifle in the other. "This rifle," said he, "shall be my great medicine.
+I will hug it to my heart--I will always love it, for the sake of my
+good friend, the bald-headed chief.--But a rifle, by itself, is dumb--I
+cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it
+out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the
+meat home to my hungry family, I would say--This was killed by the
+rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine
+horse."
+
+There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished
+the coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs
+to his very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to
+get out of all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the
+affectionate old patriarch and his insinuating family.
+
+
+
+
+32.
+
+     Nez-Perce camp--A chief with a hard name--The Big Hearts of
+     the East--Hospitable treatment--The Indian guides--
+     Mysterious councils--The loquacious chief--Indian tomb--
+     Grand Indian reception--An Indian feast--Town-criers--
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces--The captain's attempt at
+     healing.
+
+FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three
+companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay
+over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On
+the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as
+they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals,
+they descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small
+encampment of Nez Perces.
+
+The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men
+approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to
+encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief
+named Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict
+oftener than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named
+chieftain welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same
+hospitality and loving kindness that he had experienced from his
+predecessor. He told the captain he had often heard of the Americans
+and their generous deeds, and that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez
+Perces) had always spoken of them as the Big-hearted whites of the East,
+the very good friends of the Nez Perces.
+
+Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of
+this magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be
+involved in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened,
+therefore, to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how
+little there was to be expected from him.
+
+He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the
+Upper Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their
+arms around them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had
+received such good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins,
+the Lower Nez Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as
+friends and brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded
+a mule with presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez
+Perces; but, unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the
+snowy mountains; and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into
+Snake River, and been swept away by the rapid current. That instead,
+therefore, of arriving among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light
+hearts and full hands, they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and
+instead of making them presents, must depend upon them even for food.
+"But," concluded he, "we are going to the white men's fort on the
+Wallah-Wallah, and will soon return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce
+friends like the true Big Hearts of the East."
+
+Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any
+effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings
+which, according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce
+tribe, he certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on
+learning the destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he
+urged the captain to remain with them until the following day, when he
+would accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all
+his people. In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for
+travelling provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not
+as an article of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were
+hungry and in need of food.
+
+Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement.
+The carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain
+insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the
+chieftain's family.
+
+At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed
+their journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide.
+Their route was over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were
+slippery with ice and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded,
+that they could scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their
+foothold on the frozen declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey,
+the old chief and the guide were unremitting in their good offices,
+and continually on the alert to select the best roads, and assist them
+through all difficulties. Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be
+dependent on their Indian friends for almost every thing, for they had
+lost their tobacco and pipes, those great comforts of the trapper, and
+had but a few charges of powder left, which it was necessary to husband
+for the purpose of lighting their fires.
+
+In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations
+with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some
+mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville
+could not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual
+sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from
+which the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he
+attached a little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he
+suffered him to spin out his petty plans unmolested.
+
+In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy
+counsellor, the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the
+guide mounted his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the
+chief resumed his seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a
+pleasing but mystic reverie.
+
+The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the
+Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the
+guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference
+was held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more
+inflated than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh
+trails, and various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there
+must be a considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as
+his worthy companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as
+it appeared to be in some way connected with his secret operations,
+he asked no questions, but patiently awaited the development of his
+mystery.
+
+As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were
+bathing in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a
+halt, and had a long conversation with them, in the course of which he
+repeated to them the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related
+to him. In fact, he seems to have been a very sociable, communicative
+old man; by no means afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged
+upon the Indians. On the contrary, he was fond of long talks and long
+smokings, and evidently was proud of his new friend, the bald-headed
+chief, and took a pleasure in sounding his praises, and setting forth
+the power and glory of the Big Hearts of the East.
+
+Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing
+friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward
+with the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way,
+however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very
+different occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the
+river stood an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with
+some emotion. "The big heart and the strong arm," said he, "lie buried
+beneath that sod."
+
+It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of
+the tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war
+party of Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy
+bore off his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in
+this lonely place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials
+characteristic of their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered
+round the grave and mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief;
+but the women and children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations.
+"For three days," said the old man, "we performed the solemn dances for
+the dead, and prayed the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy
+in the land of brave warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave
+fifteen of our best and strongest horses, to serve him when he should
+arrive at the happy hunting grounds; and having done all this, we
+returned sorrowfully to our homes."
+
+While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up,
+and, presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily
+out of sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his
+self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode.
+Turning to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and
+informed him, that behind it was a village governed by a little chief,
+whom he had notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a
+party of the Big Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive
+them in becoming style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to
+salute them with a discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of
+gunpowder that they might return the salute in a manner correspondent to
+his dignity.
+
+They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the
+whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the
+most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the
+whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank
+were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated;
+behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and
+children.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of
+firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted.
+The chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective
+characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each
+filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor.
+Those in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all
+had given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief,
+according to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his
+people advanced whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence
+of the white men, he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they
+would submissively walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an
+inquiring look, he would observe, "he was a bad man," or something quite
+as concise, and there was an end of the matter.
+
+Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable
+lodge was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept
+constantly supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and
+all their effects were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were
+unsaddled, and turned loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon
+them.
+
+All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or
+council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet,
+was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that
+had tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld
+not merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk,
+and the choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say
+how vigorously they acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how
+unnecessary it was for their hosts to practice the usual cramming
+principle of Indian hospitality.
+
+When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the
+same curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information
+concerning the United States, of which they knew little but what they
+derived through their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is
+almost exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+Captain Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation,
+and the importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was
+ably seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name,
+who did all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East.
+
+The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and
+evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus
+set forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after
+sentence was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole
+village.
+
+This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the
+Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage
+where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report
+the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this
+kind, viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to
+be contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey
+accurate information to the public mind than those circulated through
+the press. The office of crier is generally filled by some old man,
+who is good for little else. A village has generally several of these
+walking newspapers, as they are termed by the whites, who go about
+proclaiming the news of the day, giving notice of public councils,
+expeditions, dances, feasts, and other ceremonials, and advertising
+anything lost. While Captain Bonneville remained among the Nez Perces,
+if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of similar value, was lost or
+mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the lodge of the chief, and
+proclamation was made by one of their criers, for the owner to come and
+claim his property.
+
+How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering
+tribes of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this
+tribe of Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually
+been among them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable,
+exorbitant in their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain
+Bonneville, on the contrary, who resided much among them, and had
+repeated opportunities of ascertaining their real character, invariably
+speaks of them as kind and hospitable, scrupulously honest, and
+remarkable, above all other Indians that he had met with, for a strong
+feeling of religion. In fact, so enthusiastic is he in their praise,
+that he pronounces them, all ignorant and barbarous as they are by their
+condition, one of the purest hearted people on the face of the earth.
+
+Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among
+the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and
+gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been
+long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort
+of the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation
+thus accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As
+he had arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something
+of a physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge
+in the healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently
+successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that
+report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that
+effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at
+relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg
+in the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic
+affection. This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the
+old woman with a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to
+relieve her, at the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his
+return; with which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he
+presented the captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the
+journey: a medical fee which was thankfully accepted.
+
+While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an
+owner for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big
+Wyer. The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen
+from him some time previous, by some unknown thief. "However," said the
+considerate savage, "you got him in fair trade--you are more in want
+of horses than I am: keep him; he is yours--he is a good horse; use him
+well."
+
+Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity,
+which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain
+Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more
+impressed with the general excellence of their character.
+
+
+
+
+33.
+
+     Scenery of the Way-lee-way--A substitute for tobacco--
+     Sublime scenery of--Snake River--The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin--A Nez-Perce meeting--A stolen skin--The
+     scapegoat dog--Mysterious conferences--The little chief--His
+     hospitality--The captain's account of the United States--His
+     healing skill
+
+IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the
+same Nez Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important
+in choosing the routes and resting places. He also continued to be
+accompanied by the worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed
+bent upon doing the honors of the country, and introducing him to every
+branch of his tribe. The Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain
+Bonneville and his companions were now travelling, is a considerable
+stream winding through a succession of bold and beautiful scenes.
+Sometimes the landscape towered into bold and mountainous heights that
+partook of sublimity; at other times, it stretched along the water side
+in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful undulating valleys.
+
+Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez
+Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who,
+generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures;
+a curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies
+of the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be
+spokesman of the party.
+
+The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
+excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his
+stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale
+his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his
+pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus
+manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long
+colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.
+
+If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its
+mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more
+reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At
+times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like
+gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning
+chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes
+the river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it
+roared along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks
+were piled in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another
+place, they were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with
+green-award. The whole of this wild and varied scenery was dominated
+by immense mountains rearing their distant peaks into the clouds. "The
+grandeur and originality of the views, presented on every side," says
+Captain Bonneville, "beggar both the pencil and the pen. Nothing we had
+ever gazed upon in any other region could for a moment compare in wild
+majesty and impressive sternness, with the series of scenes which
+here at every turn astonished our senses, and filled us with awe and
+delight."
+
+Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the
+accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the
+memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake
+River must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery
+of all the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky
+Mountains, to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward
+of six hundred miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a
+volcanic region, amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the
+traces of ancient fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava
+and sandy deserts, penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken
+into romantic and often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal
+snows; and at other times, careers through green and smiling meadows,
+and wide landscapes of Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity,
+however, appear to be its prevailing characteristics.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a
+considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief
+halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn
+their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from
+a group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was
+quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a
+light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot
+across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and
+frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn.
+The old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented
+Captain Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to
+say, was no less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The
+latter evinced the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers,
+whence they came whither they were going, the object of their journey,
+and the adventures they had experienced. All these, of course, were
+ample and eloquently set forth by the communicative old chief. To all
+his grandiloquent account of the bald-headed chief and his countrymen,
+the Big Hearts of the East, his cousin listened with great attention,
+and replied in the customary style of Indian welcome. He then desired
+the party to await his return, and, springing into his canoe, darted
+across the river. In a little while he returned, bringing a most
+welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of provisions for the road,
+declaring his intention of accompanying the party. Having no horse, he
+mounted behind one of the men, observing that he should procure a steed
+for himself on the following day.
+
+They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many
+miles beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom
+Captain Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence
+among the Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In
+this neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them
+with a profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That
+night they put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by
+several warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old
+chief and his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white
+men. The heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at
+thus being surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with
+more spirit and vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect
+harmony and good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the
+visitors took their leave and recrossed the river.
+
+After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez
+Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to
+throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social
+and harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain's men,
+who happened to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of
+collecting curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the
+eyes of men conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among
+the visitors from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other,
+examined it with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great
+medicine.
+
+In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off,
+the precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it
+was nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been
+purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river.
+
+The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency
+of their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over
+and answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call
+with all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea
+of their being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted
+nation. All were at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the
+invaluable skin, when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the
+water fell upon an unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He
+was a gallows-looking dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who,
+take them in the mass, are little better than a generation of vipers. Be
+that as it may, he was instantly accused of having devoured the skin
+in question. A dog accused is generally a dog condemned; and a dog
+condemned is generally a dog executed. So was it in the present
+instance. The unfortunate cur was arraigned; his thievish looks
+substantiated his guilt, and he was condemned by his judges from across
+the river to be hanged. In vain the Indians of the hut, with whom he was
+a great favorite, interceded in his behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville
+and his comrades petitioned that his life might be spared. His judges
+were inexorable. He was doubly guilty: first, in having robbed their
+good friends, the Big Hearts of the East; secondly, in having brought
+a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe. He was, accordingly,
+swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death more certain.
+The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post mortem
+examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his
+delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a
+shadow of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all
+present, during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the
+intestines rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned,
+not a particle of the skin was to be found--the dog had been unjustly
+executed!
+
+A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from
+across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them
+to the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the
+utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their
+lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin
+in a dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was
+entirely out of the question.
+
+The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the
+captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits
+of the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time
+completely dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just
+occurred. He rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give
+way to a burst of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head
+and a toss of the hand toward the opposite shore--"bad men, very bad
+men across the river"; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy
+cousin, Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of
+acquiescence, equivalent to an amen.
+
+After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and
+he fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin,
+which ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to
+his horse, dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were
+drawing near to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by
+an appellation of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as
+the great chief. The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their
+approach; a herald appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to
+enable them to respond to the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their
+approach to the village, similar to that which had occurred at the
+village of the little chief. The whole population appeared in the
+field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with the customary regard to rank and
+dignity. Then came on the firing of salutes, and the shaking of hands,
+in which last ceremonial every individual, man, woman, and child,
+participated; for the Indians have an idea that it is as indispensable
+an overture of friendship among the whites as smoking of the pipe is
+among the red men. The travellers were next ushered to the banquet,
+where all the choicest viands that the village could furnish, were
+served up in rich profusion. They were afterwards entertained by feats
+of agility and horseraces; indeed, their visit to the village seemed the
+signal for complete festivity. In the meantime, a skin lodge had been
+spread for their accommodation, their horses and baggage were taken care
+of, and wood and water supplied in abundance. At night, therefore, they
+retired to their quarters, to enjoy, as they supposed, the repose of
+which they stood in need. No such thing, however, was in store for them.
+A crowd of visitors awaited their appearance, all eager for a smoke and
+a talk. The pipe was immediately lighted, and constantly replenished
+and kept alive until the night was far advanced. As usual, the utmost
+eagerness was evinced by the guests to learn everything within the scope
+of their comprehension respecting the Americans, for whom they professed
+the most fraternal regard. The captain, in his replies, made use of
+familiar illustrations, calculated to strike their minds, and impress
+them with such an idea of the might of his nation, as would induce them
+to treat with kindness and respect all stragglers that might fall in
+their path. To their inquiries as to the numbers of the people of the
+United States, he assured them that they were as countless as the blades
+of grass in the prairies, and that, great as Snake River was, if they
+were all encamped upon its banks, they would drink it dry in a single
+day. To these and similar statistics, they listened with profound
+attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was, indeed, a striking
+scene: the captain, with his hunter's dress and bald head in the midst,
+holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like so many statues,
+the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular figures, all
+fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a question
+propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a movement
+of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and delight.
+
+The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to
+this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to
+exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with
+pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation.
+The captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain.
+Her father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and
+assured the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the
+Americans near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement.
+His kind heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl,
+and his sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about
+sixteen years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature.
+The only difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her
+malady, and that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After
+considering and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when
+in a maze of vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his
+directions, the girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used
+by the Nez Perces, where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave
+her a dose of gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to
+be wrapped in buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and
+blankets. The remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain,
+though extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a
+bowl of colt's head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on
+simple diet.
+
+The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the
+recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a
+long time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the
+captain's horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that
+the steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses,
+which he presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad
+to see his friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce
+to accompany his guest to the next village, and "to carry his talk"
+concerning them; and the two parties separated with mutual expressions
+of good will.
+
+The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among
+the Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as
+they call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by
+water poured slowly upon red-hot stones.
+
+On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut's domains, the travellers left
+the elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which
+has just been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country,
+of such fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the
+captain's followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared
+that it surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed
+what a delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and
+teeming soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share.
+
+Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a
+chief named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and
+hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued
+a west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better
+wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their
+progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were
+invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after
+leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at
+Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834.
+
+
+
+
+34.
+
+     Fort Wallah-Wallah--Its commander--Indians in its
+     neighborhood--Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement--Religion--Code of laws--Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces--Camash, and other roots--Nez--Perce horses--
+     Preparations for departure--Refusal of supplies--Departure--
+     A laggard and glutton
+
+FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+situated just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the
+left bank of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated
+merely for defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of
+Captain Bonneville's arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or
+eight men; and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune,
+an agent of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its
+trade on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of
+the Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth
+of the Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment
+from Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from
+Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of
+the British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they
+have always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders
+themselves.
+
+Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as
+well as by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and
+peltries collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are
+a degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and
+tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed
+Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the
+Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had
+evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their
+peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however,
+the principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The
+same gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed
+with scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to
+a great extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the
+Christian faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft,
+so venial a crime among the Indians, had recently been punished with
+hanging, by sentence of a chief.
+
+There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and
+religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one
+of the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an
+intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty
+years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained
+of their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities.
+The very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the
+prolonged sojourns of Captain Bonneville.
+
+The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and
+other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver,
+elk, deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these
+animals, they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be
+well worth transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among
+these is the camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion,
+and said to be really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root,
+about the size of a walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour;
+together with the jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by
+steaming them in the ground.
+
+In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they
+catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are
+their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed
+of comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally
+clad in deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all,
+they are celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark,
+and then suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These
+horses are principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and
+long-winded. They are brought in great numbers to the establishments of
+the Hudson's Bay Company, and sold for a mere trifle.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who,
+if not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the
+gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They
+invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post
+might be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would
+trade with Americans, in preference to any other people.
+
+Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this
+neighborhood, to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect
+information, and establish connections that might be advantageous in
+the way of trade. The delays, however, which he had experienced on his
+journey, obliged him to shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as
+possible, so as to reach the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed
+time. He had seen enough to convince him that an American trade might
+be carried on with advantage in this quarter; and he determined soon to
+return with a stronger party, more completely fitted for the purpose.
+
+As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to
+purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference
+between being treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy
+superintendent, who had extended to him all the genial rites of
+hospitality, now suddenly assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and
+observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him, personally,
+he felt bound by his duty to the Hudson's Bay Company, to do nothing
+which should facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among
+the Indians in that part of the country. He endeavored to dissuade
+Captain Bonneville from returning through the Blue Mountains; assuring
+him it would be extremely difficult and dangerous, if not impracticable,
+at this season of the year; and advised him to accompany Mr. Payette,
+a leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was about to depart with a
+number of men, by a more circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies
+to the company's agent, resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain
+Bonneville, however, piqued at his having refused to furnish him with
+supplies, and doubting the sincerity of his advice, determined to return
+by the more direct route through the mountains; though varying his
+course, in some respects, from that by which he had come, in consequence
+of information gathered among the neighboring Indians.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions,
+accompanied by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the
+early part of their course, they touched again at several of the Nez
+Perce villages, where they had experienced such kind treatment on their
+way down. They were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was
+done to cheer them on their journey.
+
+On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce,
+whose society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and
+good will they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the
+little party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a
+huge feeder. His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all
+labor, and availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march,
+he always lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking
+a way through all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily
+jogging along the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the
+evening encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for
+the horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the
+wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing
+away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of
+gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper.
+
+When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He
+no longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but
+distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor
+and duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his
+competitors--albeit, experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never
+had they witnessed such power of mastication, and such marvellous
+capacity of stomach, as in this native and uncultivated gastronome.
+Having, by repeated and prolonged assaults, at length completely
+gorged himself, he would wrap himself up and lie with the torpor of an
+anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the next repast.
+
+The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of
+surprise and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too
+serious for a joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he
+was regarded askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to
+waste the substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations
+they were under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest;
+but he proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these
+obligations, by eating a receipt in full.
+
+
+
+
+35.
+
+     The uninvited guest--Free and easy manners--Salutary jokes--
+     A prodigal son--Exit of the glutton--A sudden change in
+     fortune--Danger of a visit to poor relations--Plucking of a
+     prosperous man--A vagabond toilet--A substitute for the very
+     fine horse--Hard travelling--The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt--A beggar on horseback--A catastrophe--Exit
+     of the merry vagabond
+
+As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the
+hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty
+supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest.
+He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows,
+and had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing
+with an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the
+ground, and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their
+mess, helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left
+in the liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran
+dinner hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more
+knowingly. The travellers were at first completely taken by surprise,
+and could not but admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite
+made himself at home among them. While they stared he went on, making
+the most of the good cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted;
+and was soon elbow deep in "pot luck," and greased from the tip of his
+nose to the back of his ears.
+
+As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed
+at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his
+tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish
+for such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the
+"provant" upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited
+him to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess.
+
+He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on
+eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole
+countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his
+repast, his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who,
+as usual, was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the
+eye showed either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his
+characteristics. He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries;
+and cracked off two or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt
+to prick up his ears, and delighted all the company. From this time, the
+uninvited guest was taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished;
+his careless, free and easy air, to be considered singularly amusing;
+and in the end, he was pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest
+companions and most entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the
+wilderness.
+
+Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was
+the simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention
+of keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no
+objection; and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the
+carcass of the buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this
+time, he had so completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by
+his first appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the
+Nez Perce guide undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next
+morning, at break of day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the
+hills, nor was anything more seen of him until a few minutes after the
+party had encamped for the evening, when he again made his appearance,
+in his usual frank, careless manner, and threw down the carcass of
+another noble deer, which he had borne on his back for a considerable
+distance.
+
+This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative
+disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of
+his history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village;
+living a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and
+imperative commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled
+from the village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had
+betaken himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a
+careless, haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors;
+heedless of the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present;
+and fearing no lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the
+chase, and a fair hunting ground.
+
+Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his
+eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville
+fitted him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon
+became quite attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal
+services he performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that
+hitherto oppressed the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had
+seemed so perfectly insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by
+which the travellers had endeavored to elbow him out of their society,
+could not withstand the good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp
+wit of She-wee-she. He evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat
+blinking like an owl in daylight, when pestered by the flouts and
+peckings of mischievous birds. At length his place was found vacant at
+meal-time; no one knew when he went off, or whither he had gone, but he
+was seen no more, and the vast surplus that remained when the repast was
+over, showed what a mighty gormandizer had departed.
+
+Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily.
+She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always
+successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or
+on the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of
+his countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in
+good-humor.
+
+In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the
+Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she
+took a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of
+worldly prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly
+departed in the morning, arrayed in hunter's style, and well appointed
+with everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the
+elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that
+he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about
+to give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what
+a change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in
+the evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail
+between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was
+born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a
+fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed
+it to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they
+recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom
+they had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather,
+they could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and
+repeated peals of laughter.
+
+She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined
+in the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his
+reverse of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however,
+thought proper to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree
+of sternness, the cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most
+natural and self-complacent style imaginable, "that he had been among
+his cousins, who were very poor; they had been delighted to see him;
+still more delighted with his good fortune; they had taken him to their
+arms; admired his equipments; one had begged for this; another for
+that"--in fine, what with the poor devil's inherent heedlessness, and
+the real generosity of his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded
+in stripping him of all his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig
+leaf with which he had returned to camp.
+
+Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville
+determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a
+salutary lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in
+the neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift
+for himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give
+him any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of
+his lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin;
+whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it,
+so that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South
+American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together,
+under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before
+the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he
+thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet.
+
+A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village
+of Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who
+had made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse.
+The old man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual
+cordiality, and his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing
+grateful recollections of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus
+of friendly gratulation.
+
+As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting
+family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate
+to the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored
+him to the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the
+invaluable gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied
+with a fine two years' old colt in his stead, a substitution which he
+afterward learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might
+have claimed as a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims
+were made on account of this colt. This donation may be regarded,
+therefore, as a signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found
+that the animal soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party.
+
+While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with
+some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about
+to traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in
+gloomy forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth
+in the passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as
+he proceeded. He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very
+slowly, so as to keep the horses in strength and spirit for the
+hard times they would have to encounter. The captain surrendered the
+regulation of the march entirely to his discretion, and pushed on in the
+advance, amusing himself with hunting, so as generally to kill a deer
+or two in the course of the day, and arriving, before the rest of the
+party, at the spot designated by the guide for the evening's encampment.
+
+In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide,
+accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn
+by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of
+the mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper
+beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they
+quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high
+good-humor.
+
+So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch's. The
+second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the
+rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part
+of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard
+exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery,
+the patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to
+follow on at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he
+was on his back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The
+colt, unused to such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing
+and rearing and snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length,
+set off full speed over the most dangerous ground. As the route led
+generally along the steep and craggy sides of the hills, both horse and
+horseman were constantly in danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth
+escape from deadly peril. Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap
+savage. He stuck to the colt like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down
+gullies; whooping and yelling with the wildest glee. Never did beggar
+on horseback display more headlong horsemanship. His companions followed
+him with their eyes, sometimes laughing, sometimes holding in their
+breath at his vagaries, until they saw the colt make a sudden plunge or
+start, and pitch his unlucky rider headlong over a precipice. There was
+a general cry of horror, and all hastened to the spot. They found the
+poor fellow lying among the rocks below, sadly bruised and mangled.
+It was almost a miracle that he had escaped with life. Even in this
+condition, his merry spirit was not entirely quelled, and he summoned up
+a feeble laugh at the alarm and anxiety of those who came to his relief.
+He was extricated from his rocky bed, and a messenger dispatched to
+inform Captain Bonneville of the accident. The latter returned with all
+speed, and encamped the party at the first convenient spot. Here the
+wounded man was stretched upon buffalo skins, and the captain, who
+officiated on all occasions as doctor and surgeon to the party,
+proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one was a long and deep
+gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling for a needle and
+thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound, admonishing the
+patient to submit to the operation with becoming fortitude. His gayety
+was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a forced smile; and,
+at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so piteously, that the
+captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a powerful dose of
+alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed his heart; all
+the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes riveted on the
+wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the countenance,
+that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic curl.
+
+When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and
+administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in
+for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless
+and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would
+be so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the
+party; nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion
+favorable to his wishes.
+
+Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding
+that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting
+to use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several
+efforts to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue
+forward; but at length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that
+"as he had but one leg," it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the
+mountain.
+
+Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such
+disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each
+one making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse,
+which Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting
+expressions of good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old
+haunts; doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy
+cousins.
+
+
+
+
+36.
+
+     The difficult mountain--A smoke and consultation--The
+     captain's speech--An icy turnpike--Danger of a false step--
+     Arrival on Snake River--Return to--Portneuf--Meeting of
+     comrades
+
+CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers
+found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in
+quantity, so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged,
+therefore, to beat down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling
+on the icy surface of the stream. At length they reached the place where
+they intended to scale the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to
+the foot, were agreeably surprised to find that the wind had drifted the
+snow from off the side, so that they attained the summit with but little
+difficulty. Here they encamped, with the intention of beating a track
+through the mountains. A short experiment, however, obliged them to give
+up the attempt, the snow lying in vast drifts, often higher than the
+horses' heads.
+
+Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to
+reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the
+rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about
+nine miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed
+impracticable. He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides,
+proceeded to hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while
+they all smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject
+matter before them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in
+which the two guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly
+cross the snows. They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed
+on foot, and they should take the horses back to the village, where they
+would be well taken care of until Captain Bonneville should send for
+them. They urged this advice with great earnestness; declaring that
+their chief would be extremely angry, and treat them severely, should
+any of the horses of his good friends, the white men, be lost, in
+crossing under their guidance; and that, therefore, it was good they
+should not attempt it.
+
+Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with
+Indian silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them
+in their own style of language.
+
+"My friends," said he, "I have seen the pass, and have listened to your
+words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your
+way, you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great
+obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell,
+and they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for
+the present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp."
+
+He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he
+found the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been
+surveying the neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was
+at least a hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused
+fresh spirit in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to
+proceed. About dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now
+suggested itself. This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on
+them, and drag them to the other side of the mountain, thus forming
+a road in the wet snow, which, should it afterward freeze, would be
+sufficiently hard to bear the horses. This plan was promptly put into
+execution; the sleds were constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn
+backward and forward until the road was beaten, when they desisted
+from their fatiguing labor. The night turned out clear and cold, and by
+morning, their road was incrusted with ice sufficiently strong for their
+purpose. They now set out on their icy turnpike, and got on well enough,
+excepting that now and then a horse would sidle out of the track, and
+immediately sink up to the neck. Then came on toil and difficulty, and
+they would be obliged to haul up the floundering animal with ropes. One,
+more unlucky than the rest, after repeated falls, had to be abandoned in
+the snow. Notwithstanding these repeated delays, they succeeded, before
+the sun had acquired sufficient power to thaw the snow, in getting all
+the rest of their horses safely to the other side of the mountain.
+
+Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They
+had now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with
+ice. It was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun
+should melt the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in
+the yielding snow. They had a frightful warning of the danger of
+any movement while the sleet remained. A wild young mare, in her
+restlessness, strayed to the edge of a declivity. One slip was fatal
+to her; she lost her balance, careered with headlong velocity down the
+slippery side of the mountain for more than two thousand feet, and was
+dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers afterward sought
+the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and mangled in the
+most horrible manner.
+
+It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the
+ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them
+to prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day
+they succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then
+packing all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more
+set out briskly and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day
+succeeded in getting to a grassy region.
+
+Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the
+mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and
+needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return
+home. This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their
+faithful services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white
+friends, after which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging
+many farewells and kind wishes.
+
+On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the
+mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found
+the grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this
+neighborhood, he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids
+of basaltes, rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet.
+
+Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the
+party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams.
+After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people
+were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions
+to discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join
+them. He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract
+of country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he
+now shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small
+hordes of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon
+trout and other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season
+in fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated
+the mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn.
+
+On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in
+the vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company
+on the preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the
+beginning of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two
+months beyond the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this
+have been broken up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched
+scouts a few miles above, to visit the old camping ground and search for
+signals of the party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually
+have abandoned the spot. They returned without being able to ascertain
+anything.
+
+Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary
+to make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches,
+therefore, on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their
+baggage, and then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as
+to kill a couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined
+to husband this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest
+they should again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous
+hunting grounds. Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they
+found that the wolves had been at the caches, scratched up the contents,
+and scattered them in every direction. They now constructed a more
+secure one, in which they deposited their heaviest articles, and then
+descended Snake River again, and encamped just above the American Falls.
+Here they proceeded to fortify themselves, intending to remain here,
+and give their horses an opportunity to recruit their strength with good
+pasturage, until it should be time to set out for the annual rendezvous
+in Bear River valley.
+
+On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the
+river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by
+a discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of
+their own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the
+whole party which he had left in the preceding month of December were
+encamped on Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far
+above the Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch,
+and in a little while had the pleasure of finding himself once more
+surrounded by his people, who greeted his return among them in the
+heartiest manner; for his long-protracted absence had convinced them
+that he and his three companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe.
+
+The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by
+famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches
+at Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and
+considered themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the
+dangerous neighborhood without sustaining any loss.
+
+Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his
+men was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such
+feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was
+wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in
+particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia
+was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game
+flavor of the wilderness.
+
+
+
+
+37.
+
+     Departure for the rendezvous--A war party of Blackfeet--A
+     mock bustle--Sham fires at night--Warlike precautions--
+     Dangers of a night attack--A panic among horses--Cautious
+     march--The Beer Springs--A mock carousel--Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes--A buffalo bait--Arrival at the rendezvous--
+     Meeting of various bands
+
+AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke
+up the encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free
+trappers, half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in
+Bear River valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon
+reached the hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the
+march, he descried from the brow of a hill, a war party of about
+sixty Blackfeet, on the plain immediately below him. His situation was
+perilous; for the greater part of his people were dispersed in various
+directions. Still, to betray hesitation or fear would be to discover his
+actual weakness, and to invite attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore,
+a belligerent tone; ordered the squaws to lead the horses to a small
+grove of ashen trees, and unload and tie them; and caused a great bustle
+to be made by his scanty handful; the leaders riding hither and thither,
+and vociferating with all their might, as if a numerous force was
+getting under way for an attack.
+
+To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number
+of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His
+men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In
+such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle
+beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in
+case of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at
+once, and start up, completely armed.
+
+Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses,
+and set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and
+principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage
+is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens
+another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps
+where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night
+alarm of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have
+broken loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain
+fast; the howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of
+white men, and red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and
+trampling of fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up
+forms of men and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make
+up one of the wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way,
+sometimes, all the horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be
+frightened off in a single night.
+
+The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no
+likelihood that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp
+where there was a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The
+captain, therefore, continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions;
+throwing out scouts in the advance, and on every rising ground.
+
+In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already
+mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by
+the trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments
+every spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand,
+indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying
+jokes, singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it
+seemed as if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and
+cheated them into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of
+the moment, they were loud and extravagant in their commendations of
+"the mountain tap"; elevating it above every beverage produced from hops
+or malt. It was a singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region
+where everything is strange and peculiar:--These groups of trappers, and
+hunters, and Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances;
+their boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry
+round these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons,
+ready to be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of
+representing banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here
+were groups, still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden
+onset of Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to
+a furious melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper's life
+complete.
+
+The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance;
+and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache
+behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River;
+amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which
+the country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his
+repose in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon
+him; then rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot
+at him as he started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal
+springs upon his legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular
+process by which it is effected. The horse rises first upon his fore
+legs; and the domestic cow, upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo
+bounds at once from a couchant to an erect position, with a celerity
+that baffles the eye. Though from his bulk, and rolling gait, he does
+not appear to run with much swiftness; yet, it takes a stanch horse to
+overtake him, when at full speed on level ground; and a buffalo cow is
+still fleeter in her motion.
+
+Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable
+horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind
+of buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they
+prepared for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on
+horseback, they would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession,
+goading him to make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the
+horse, they would easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him,
+feathering him with arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was
+bristled all over like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs
+of exhaustion, and he could no longer be provoked to make battle, they
+would dismount from their horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing
+him by the tail, jerk him from side to side, and drag him backward;
+until the frantic animal, gathering fresh strength from fury, would
+break from them, and rush, with flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing,
+upon any enemy in sight; but in a little while, his transient excitement
+at an end, would pitch headlong on the ground, and expire. The arrows
+were then plucked forth, the tongue cut out and preserved as a dainty,
+and the carcass left a banquet for the wolves.
+
+Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the
+13th of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or
+five days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he
+found extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that
+he was obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore
+them. The mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the
+west, are marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is
+a beautiful beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs,
+which advance upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery.
+The water is very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish.
+
+Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on
+his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher
+up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to
+circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the
+nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days;
+and were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades,
+from whom they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain
+Bonneville was about the result of their journey, and the information
+they had procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense
+curiosity and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in
+the following chapter.
+
+
+
+
+38.
+
+     Plan of the Salt Lake expedition--Great sandy deserts--
+     Sufferings from thirst--Ogden's--River--Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages--Thefts at night--A trapper's revenge--
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience--A murderous victory--
+     Californian mountains--Plains along the--Pacific--Arrival
+     at--Monterey--Account of the place and neighborhood--Lower--
+     California--Its extent--The Peninsula--Soil--Climate--
+     Production--Its settlements by the Jesuits--Their sway over
+     the Indians--Their expulsion--Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment--Sublime scenery--Upper California Missions--
+     Their power and policy--Resources of the country--Designs of
+     foreign nations
+
+IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the
+brigade of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the
+Great Salt Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping
+on all the streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals
+and make charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the
+surrounding country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been
+tasked to fit out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the
+southwest of the mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet
+almost unknown; being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed
+by the trapper, who preferred those parts of the wilderness where
+the roaming herds of that species of animal gave him comparatively an
+abundant and luxurious life. Still it was said the deer, the elk, and
+the bighorn were to be found there, so that, with a little diligence and
+economy, there was no danger of lacking food. As a precaution, however,
+the party halted on Bear River and hunted for a few days, until they had
+laid in a supply of dried buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by
+the head waters of the Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched
+on an immense sandy desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the
+Great Salt Lake, spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running
+into it. A desert extended around them, and stretched to the southwest,
+as far as the eye could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa
+in sterility. There was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool,
+nor running stream, nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and
+rider were in danger of perishing.
+
+Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned
+their intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains,
+brightening in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time,
+they came upon a small stream leading directly towards these mountains.
+Having quenched their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their
+weary horses for a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually
+increased in size, being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the
+mountains, it took a sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers
+still kept along it, trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which
+they subsisted for the present, husbanding their dried meat for future
+necessities.
+
+The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River,
+but is more generally known as Ogden's River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an
+enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who
+first explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the
+travellers were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or
+Root Diggers, the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy
+people, prone to keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently
+met with their trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in
+various parts of the vast landscape, so that they knew there were great
+numbers in the neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be
+met with.
+
+After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the
+Shoshokoes were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was
+dogged by these eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles
+were missing, yet nothing could be seen of the marauders. What
+particularly exasperated the hunters, was to have their traps stolen
+from the streams. One morning, a trapper of a violent and savage
+character, discovering that his traps had been carried off in the night,
+took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian he should meet, innocent
+or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades to camp, he beheld two
+unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank, fishing. Advancing upon
+them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the spot, and flung his
+bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled and was suffered
+to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of violence are
+regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed ruffian
+enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment this
+desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The
+trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on
+westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range
+of mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain,
+on the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising,
+as before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now
+converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the
+scattered bands for vengeance.
+
+After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes
+in considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however,
+suspected them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd
+into and get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and
+daring conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads
+of the poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive
+race, unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons,
+excepting for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains
+and along the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other
+times on roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat's-tail. They
+are of the same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake
+River, and whom he found so mild and inoffensive.
+
+The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making
+their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round
+their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise
+them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying
+into Ogden's River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number
+of Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were
+there with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their
+rifles, and killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to
+a short distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like
+wolves, and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them
+in every direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with
+terror; neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors,
+that a weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians
+throughout the affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages
+had no hostile intention, but had merely gathered together through
+motives of curiosity, as others of their tribe had done when Captain
+Bonneville and his companions passed along Snake River.
+
+The trappers continued down Ogden's River, until they ascertained that
+it lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent
+discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of
+California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the
+shores of the Pacific.
+
+For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains,
+the peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual
+snow. Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking
+of the sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful
+precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage
+mountains were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved;
+at length, they made their way through them, and came down upon the
+plains of New California, a fertile region extending along the coast,
+with magnificent forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked
+like stately parks. Here they found deer and other game in abundance,
+and indemnified themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the
+south, and passing numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various
+streams, arrived at the Spanish village and post of Monterey.
+
+This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in
+latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage.
+The surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys;
+the soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and
+the climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California,
+extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30' to 42 north, is
+represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North
+America.
+
+Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great
+peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone.
+It is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes
+called the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the
+West, the Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called.
+The peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many
+sandy plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical
+cactus growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water,
+however, and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens
+everything into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with
+the rich and beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane
+and indigo plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of
+North America. There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the
+orange, the citron, the pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the
+voluptuous climates of the south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a
+generous wine. In the interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty
+veins of gold are said, likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful
+water are to be fished upon the coast.
+
+The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who,
+certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved
+the most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained
+and maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military
+force, but solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty,
+and entered into the most amicable relations with the natives, then
+numbering from twenty-five to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold
+upon their affections, and a control over their minds, that effected
+a complete change in their condition. They built eleven missionary
+establishments in the various valleys of the peninsula, which formed
+rallying places for the surrounding savages, where they gathered
+together as sheep into the fold, and surrendered themselves and their
+consciences into the hands of these spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are
+told, could exceed the implicit and affectionate devotion of the Indian
+converts to the Jesuit fathers, and the Catholic faith was disseminated
+widely through the wilderness. The growing power and influence of the
+Jesuits in the New World at length excited the jealousy of the Spanish
+government, and they were banished from the colonies. The governor, who
+arrived at California to expel them, and to take charge of the country,
+expected to find a rich and powerful fraternity, with immense treasures
+hoarded in their missions, and an army of Indians ready to defend them.
+On the contrary, he beheld a few venerable silver-haired priests coming
+humbly forward to meet him, followed by a throng of weeping, but
+submissive natives. The heart of the governor, it is said, was so
+touched by this unexpected sight, that he shed tears; but he had to
+execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their
+embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners, who took
+leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the latter abandoned their
+hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their southern brethren,
+so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The Franciscans
+immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the Dominicans;
+but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the missionary
+establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are all in
+ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power and
+prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the
+chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley,
+about half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the
+peninsula being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn
+stone, one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about
+fifty-five feet deep. The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet
+high, with a vaulted roof of stone, about two feet and a half in
+thickness. It is now abandoned and desolate; the beautiful valley is
+without an inhabitant--not a human being resides within thirty miles of
+the place!
+
+In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller
+passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak
+in the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent
+prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark
+blue sea beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the
+immense lava plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an
+Italian effect to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color,
+and the sunsets are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a
+slight and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
+
+Upper California extends from latitude 31 10' to 42 on the Pacific, and
+inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from
+the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in
+this province, most of which were established about fifty years since,
+and are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a
+protecting sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who
+reside on the lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has
+fifteen miles square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots,
+proportioned to the number of Indian converts attached to the mission.
+Some are enclosed with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets,
+composed of rows of huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances
+whitewashed and roofed with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior,
+beyond the reach of all military protection, and dependent entirely on
+the good will of the natives, which never fails them. They have made
+considerable progress in teaching the Indians the useful arts. There
+are native tanners, shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters,
+and other artificers attached to each establishment. Others are taught
+husbandry, and the rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card
+and spin wool, weave, and perform the other duties allotted to their
+sex in civilized life. No social intercourse is allowed between the
+unmarried of the opposite sexes after working hours; and at night they
+are locked up in separate apartments, and the keys delivered to the
+priests.
+
+The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are
+entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for
+the support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under
+their control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the
+missions, and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might
+be produced to an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there
+a sufficient market for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the
+missions.
+
+Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former
+may be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an
+inferior breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable
+qualities, cost from seven to ten dollars.
+
+There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San
+Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of
+Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port
+of San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place.
+The entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole
+navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take
+their rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run
+through a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves
+into the harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for
+ship-building. In a word, this favored port combines advantages which
+not only fit it for a grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of
+being made the dominant military post of these seas.
+
+Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value
+of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The
+Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already
+encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the
+port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys
+have likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we
+have little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and,
+until recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources
+of wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its
+inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches;
+they have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast
+interior that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and
+industry to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor
+to prosecute that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a
+country into profitable action.
+
+
+
+
+39.
+
+     Gay life at Monterey--Mexican horsemen--A bold dragoon--Use
+     of the lasso--Vaqueros--Noosing a bear--Fight between a bull
+     and a bear--Departure from Monterey--Indian horse stealers--
+     Outrages committed by the travellers--Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville
+
+THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the
+inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered
+extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When
+they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests
+at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be
+their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted
+to kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze
+the country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners.
+They attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of
+their expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not
+belong to them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool's paradise.
+
+What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the
+Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this
+country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of
+California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are
+fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild
+horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of
+the prairies.
+
+A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the
+equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero
+of Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed
+in a round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches,
+unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer
+skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel
+of his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round
+the lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries
+a bull's hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before
+and behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish
+fashion, and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle
+at his heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself
+the glory of California, and the terror of the universe.
+
+The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that
+is to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are
+expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to
+Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come,
+originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral
+people of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the
+army of Xerxes. By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of
+purposes; and among others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting,
+they cast the noose around a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The
+vaqueros, or Indian cattle drivers, have also learned the use of the
+laso from the Spaniards; and employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by
+throwing it round their horns.
+
+The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite,
+though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull.
+For this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood,
+frequented by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide
+themselves in the vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As
+soon as one, fit for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out,
+and with the laso, dexterously noose him by either leg. After
+dragging him at full speed until he is fatigued, they secure him more
+effectually; and tying him on the carcass of the bullock, draw him in
+triumph to the scene of action. By this time, he is exasperated to such
+frenzy, that they are sometimes obliged to throw cold water on him, to
+moderate his fury; and dangerous would it be, for horse and rider, were
+he, while in this paroxysm, to break his bonds.
+
+A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated
+in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose
+in the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly;
+and always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is,
+by his previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring
+of the bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to
+this most sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony.
+In his heat and fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly
+clutched by the bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge
+antagonist; and then dispatches him without difficulty.
+
+Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with
+bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being
+considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions.
+
+After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying,
+but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party
+set out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing
+their steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern
+extremity, and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the
+sandy plains south of Ogden's River; in traversing which, they again
+suffered, grievously, for want of water.
+
+In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in
+pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages
+of this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and
+armed only with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the
+Spaniards not to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult,
+with their blunt shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they
+occasionally supply themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish
+horses. Driving them stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they
+slaughter them without difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions.
+Some they carry off to trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the
+Spanish horses pass from hand to hand among the Indians, until they even
+find their way across the Rocky Mountains.
+
+The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders;
+but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and
+wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses.
+
+Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers,
+and proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey
+through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to
+have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest
+outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the
+light of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them
+with the sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for
+the infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they
+were guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them
+without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their
+unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with
+their lasos, and then dragging them to death!
+
+Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at
+least, such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect;
+for he was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so
+indignant at the atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust
+and horror, from the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch
+law of the wilderness, and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their
+own lasos, it would but have been a well-merited and salutary act of
+retributive justice. The failure of this expedition was a blow to his
+pride, and a still greater blow to his purse. The Great Salt Lake
+still remained unexplored; at the same time, the means which had been
+furnished so liberally to fit out this favorite expedition, had all been
+squandered at Monterey; and the peltries, also, which had been collected
+on the way. He would have but scanty returns, therefore, to make this
+year, to his associates in the United States; and there was great danger
+of their becoming disheartened, and abandoning the enterprise.
+
+
+
+
+40.
+
+     Traveller's tales--Indian lurkers--Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents--The medicine wolf--An alarm--An ambush
+     The captured provant--Triumph of Buckeye--Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse--Arrangements for the year--Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.
+
+THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses
+of the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on
+the contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the
+camp. The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among
+the hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and
+bull-fights especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had
+another expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would
+have been to restrain a general eagerness to volunteer.
+
+The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by
+various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was
+evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march,
+had dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep
+his camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline
+among trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port.
+
+Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of
+the hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up
+caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs
+and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white
+comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans,
+or medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the
+howling or barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven
+by the larger wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by
+the hunters, follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp.
+Here the smell of the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze,
+keeps them hovering about the neighborhood; scenting every blast,
+turning up their noses like hungry hounds, and testifying their
+pinching hunger by long whining howls and impatient barkings. These are
+interpreted by the superstitious Indians into warnings that strangers
+are at hand; and one accidental coincidence, like the chance fulfillment
+of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to cover a thousand failures.
+This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is, therefore, called among
+Indians the "medicine wolf;" and such was one of Buckeye's infallible
+oracles.
+
+One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy
+countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from
+mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not
+appear. "Danger," he said, "was lurking in their path, and there would
+be some fighting before sunset." He was bantered for his prophecy, which
+was attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by
+bad dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in
+pursuit of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat
+they should procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came
+clattering at full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet!
+Blackfeet! Every one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the
+alarm. It appeared that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely,
+leading their mule well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed
+close by a small stream overhung with trees, about two miles from
+the camp. Suddenly a party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the
+thickets, sprang up with a fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the
+hunters. The latter immediately threw themselves flat on their horses,
+put them to their speed, and never paused to look behind, until they
+found themselves in camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound;
+but the mule, with all the "provant," had fallen into the hands of the
+enemy This was a loss, as well as an insult, not to be borne. Every
+man sprang to horse, and with rifle in hand, galloped off to punish
+the Blackfeet, and rescue the buffalo beef. They came too late; the
+marauders were off, and all that they found of their mule was the dents
+of his hoofs, as he had been conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his
+savory cargo to the hills, to furnish the scampering savages with a
+banquet of roast meat at the expense of the white men.
+
+The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more
+grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by
+his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars
+of the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then
+pointing to the west, "the sun has not yet set," said he: "Buckeye did
+not dream like a fool!"
+
+All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak,
+and were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to
+mind, also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions
+made at various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious
+credulity, began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how
+natural it was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction
+verified in the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a
+lurking foe.
+
+The various bands of Captain Bonneville's company had now been assembled
+for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting,
+and frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth
+merrymaking, which invariably take place on these occasions. Their
+horses, as well as themselves, had recovered from past famine and
+fatigue, and were again fit for active service; and an impatience began
+to manifest itself among the men once more to take the field, and set
+off on some wandering expedition.
+
+At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a
+supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active
+leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in
+skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year's collection of
+peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of
+his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged.
+
+The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual
+revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers;
+drinking, dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting.
+Alcohol, which, from its portable qualities, containing the greatest
+quantity of fiery spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor
+carried across the mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these
+carousals, and is dealt out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When
+inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks
+and gambols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their drunken
+bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one of these riotous revels, presents
+a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes, broken heads, lack-lustre visages.
+Many of the trappers have squandered in one drunken frolic the
+hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt, and must toil on to
+pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep draught of pleasure,
+and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for hardship and hard
+work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and topped off with
+an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless trapper.
+
+The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and
+Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed
+to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year.
+Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the
+Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills,
+and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter
+quarters.
+
+The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He
+intended to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the
+lower part of the Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the
+Multnomah; after wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with
+those tribes, among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would
+return in the spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and
+his party in the month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where
+he expected to receive his annual supplies from the States.
+
+If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the
+contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by
+noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings.
+Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July,
+on their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that
+Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who
+had parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn,
+to descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new
+levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the
+banks of the Columbia.
+
+As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this "eastern man,"
+and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his
+movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with
+the reader's permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his
+camp and saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few
+hundred miles in distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch
+ourselves with Wyeth in his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage
+will take us many hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering
+rivers; yet such is the magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring
+the reader safe to Bear River Valley, by the time the last horse is
+saddled.
+
+
+
+
+41.
+
+     A voyage in a bull boat.
+
+IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth,
+as the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of
+the rapids of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of
+Campbell and Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo
+skins, stretched on a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid
+with elk tallow and ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five
+feet six inches wide, sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew
+about a foot and a half of water-a depth too great for these upper
+rivers, which abound with shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of
+two half-breeds, who claimed to be white men, though a mixture of the
+French creole and the Shawnee and Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover,
+to be thorough mountaineers, and first-rate hunters--the common boast of
+these vagabonds of the wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce
+lad of eighteen years of age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great
+aim, like all Indian servants, was to do as little work as possible;
+there was, moreover, a half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son
+of a Hudson's Bay trader by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with
+Wyeth to see the world and complete his education. Add to these, Mr.
+Milton Sublette, who went as passenger, and we have the crew of the
+little bull boat complete.
+
+It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet
+through countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to
+navigate these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running
+on snags and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells
+with which these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest
+streams; and it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these
+boats will endure, and what vicissitudes they will live through. Their
+duration, however, is but limited; they require frequently to be
+hauled out of the water and dried, to prevent the hides from becoming
+water-soaked; and they eventually rot and go to pieces.
+
+The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about
+five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally
+alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled
+occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs
+and promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands.
+Beyond the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills.
+
+Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat
+experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his
+attention and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags
+of sunken trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where
+the river branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and
+occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back.
+
+It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were
+passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in
+reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable
+foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly
+promenading along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as
+they glided by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying
+on the ground, like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as
+these, a perfect solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign
+of human habitation; for the Crows, as we have already shown, are a
+wandering people, a race of hunters and warriors, who live in tents and
+on horseback, and are continually on the move. At night they landed,
+hauled up their boat to dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing
+fire. Then, as it was the first evening of their voyage, they indulged
+in a regale, relishing their buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after
+which, they slept soundly, without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early
+in the morning, they again launched the boat and committed themselves to
+the stream.
+
+In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence,
+excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore,
+and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried
+some persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by
+calculation, at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the
+American Fur Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A
+nearer approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from
+the rest, they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main
+force of the Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several
+chiefs, were but about two or three miles below, on their way up along
+the river. This was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible,
+and the river afforded no hiding place. They continued forward,
+therefore, trusting that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows
+might refrain from any depredations.
+
+Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first
+band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with
+guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made
+a wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their
+accustomed dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band
+of Crow cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in
+height, lithe and active, with hawks' eyes and Roman noses. The
+latter feature is common to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky
+Mountains; those on the western side have generally straight or flat
+noses.
+
+Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the
+river, at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was
+perceived, therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and,
+we presume, in no very choice language; for, among their other
+accomplishments, the Crows are famed for possessing a Billingsgate
+vocabulary of unrivalled opulence, and for being by no means sparing
+of it whenever an occasion offers. Indeed, though Indians are generally
+very lofty, rhetorical, and figurative in their language at all great
+talks, and high ceremonials, yet, if trappers and traders may be
+believed, they are the most unsavory vagabonds in their ordinary
+colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a spade a spade; and when
+they once undertake to call hard names, the famous pot and kettle, of
+vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them for scurrility of
+epithet.
+
+To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the
+launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with
+the best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was
+Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have
+already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse
+between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good
+presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too,
+thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow
+fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a
+still greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his
+own with surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step
+among the crowd.
+
+Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do
+but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez
+Perce's scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped
+up and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped
+himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that
+Wyeth and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of
+these officious Crows before they were entirely plucked.
+
+Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the
+second band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of
+passing them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns
+at the boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the
+stream, and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth
+threw a cord to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be
+drawn to the shore.
+
+In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his
+people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most
+of their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity
+of the American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good
+prize of the bull boat and all its contents.
+
+These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of
+mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in
+the autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects;
+hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their
+trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow
+country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by
+some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of
+their rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their
+competition was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a
+great object of rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the
+Crows in their depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent
+chiefly on robbing the parties of their traps and horses, thereby
+disabling them from prosecuting their hunting.
+
+We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were
+pushing their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those
+of the American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are
+speaking, Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel
+boat, laden with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this
+eager rivalship being carried to extremes.
+
+The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds
+of dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the
+river and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this
+stream, they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank,
+about three miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld
+a party of thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be
+Blackfeet. The width of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient
+distance, and they soon landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere
+fortification against Indians; being a stockade of about one hundred and
+thirty feet square, with two bastions at the extreme corners. M'Tulloch,
+an agent of the American Company, was stationed there with twenty men;
+two boats of fifteen tons burden were lying here; but at certain seasons
+of the year a steamboat can come up to the fort.
+
+They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their
+appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token
+of amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly
+received at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been
+engaged, the year previously, in the battle at Pierre's Hole, and a
+fierce-looking set of fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very
+much resembling the Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand,
+to make peace with the Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to
+overtake them. Wyeth predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he
+had heard the Crows denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two
+of their warriors who had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty
+of peace. It is probable, however, that this pacific errand was all a
+pretence, and that the real object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang
+about the skirts of the Crow band, steal their horses, and take the
+scalps of stragglers.
+
+At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a
+quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he
+once more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone,
+which inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial
+bottoms, fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood,
+and interrupted occasionally by "bluffs" of sandstone. The current
+occasionally brings down fragments of granite and porphyry.
+
+In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among
+the trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want
+of provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time,
+a party of Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all
+speed, to the opposite side of the river.
+
+After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was
+immediately for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs
+of dissatisfaction in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as
+trenching upon their province, and meddling with things quite above
+his capacity; for these veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly
+pragmatical, on points of venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their
+superiority; looking down with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners.
+The two worthies, therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time
+returned empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their
+guns; two miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their
+picking and hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great
+boasters of the wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots,
+and fortunate it is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the
+blame.
+
+The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on
+a prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth,
+and again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing
+went off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing
+his dinner if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand,
+therefore, and went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned
+laden with buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular
+hunters, who were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made
+under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece
+of meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before
+it; in a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters
+gradually recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard
+their old flint guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and
+boasted more than ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they
+had guns that never missed fire.
+
+Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their
+repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on
+their way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they
+hoisted whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the
+stream. Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and
+land, with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped
+on islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a
+dangerous neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving
+their fire burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making
+no fire at their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night
+with the current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept.
+in such case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the
+following day to dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was
+gradually getting water-soaked and rotten.
+
+There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating
+down these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these
+elevated regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened
+the magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of
+the waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary
+howl, or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and
+bellowing of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the
+ear with an effect unknown in the daytime.
+
+The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification
+when they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding
+swiftly round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them
+gave the alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and
+every one caught up his rifle. "Where are they?" cried Wyeth.
+
+"There--there! riding on horseback!" cried one of the hunters.
+
+"Yes; with white scarfs on!" cried the other.
+
+Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but
+two bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and
+seeming, from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an
+opposite direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans,
+who prided themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight,
+produced a hearty laugh at their expense, and put an end to their
+vauntings.
+
+The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream;
+its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow
+clay color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour,
+with occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed
+them all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places
+precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region
+abounding with buffalo--that ever-journeying animal, which moves in
+countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing
+plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming
+rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some
+traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at
+certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit
+the remotest shores.
+
+These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths
+and highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest
+passes of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers.
+When once a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward,
+regardless of all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving
+mass behind. At such times they will break through a camp, trampling
+down everything in their course.
+
+It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these
+buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long
+asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and
+the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had
+just time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the
+opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they
+moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the
+column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank.
+
+It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold
+this countless throng making their way across the river, blowing,
+and bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and
+continuous column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the
+waters of which rise and rush over their backs, or between their
+squadrons. The roaring and rushing sound of one of these vast herds
+crossing a river, may sometimes in a still night be heard for miles.
+
+The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many
+buffaloes as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their
+havoc; especially among scattered herds, that came swimming near the
+boat. On one occasion, an old buffalo bull approached so near that the
+half-breeds must fain try to noose him as they would a wild horse. The
+noose was successfully thrown around his head, and secured him by the
+horns, and they now promised themselves ample sport. The buffalo
+made prodigious turmoil in the water, bellowing, and blowing, and
+floundering; and they all floated down the stream together. At length he
+found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to his heels, whirled the boat
+after him like a whale when harpooned; so that the hunters were obliged
+to cast off their rope, with which strange head-gear the venerable bull
+made off to the prairies.
+
+On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew,
+into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above
+the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the
+distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country.
+It was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet
+square, pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably
+entertained by Mr. M'Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him
+three days, enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and
+cheese, for the fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it
+had no garden. The atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be
+too dry for the culture of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down
+the Yellowstone, had met with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and
+had observed ash and elm trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be
+incompatible with gardening.
+
+At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men.
+This was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot
+warrior. It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth
+murdered the year previously, at Jackson's Hole, by the Blackfeet, and
+whose bones had been subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This
+flask had either been passed from hand to hand of the youth, or,
+perhaps, had been brought to the fort by the very savage who slew him.
+
+As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the
+broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up,
+and a canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the
+Blackfeet, was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his
+sail, and bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union,
+turned his prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri.
+
+He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a
+large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William
+Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition
+to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they
+were treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a
+social evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially
+the memorable fight at Pierre's Hole.
+
+Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the
+canoe, and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the
+fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on
+his course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever
+voyaged on the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the
+stream, without any chance of missing the way.
+
+All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and
+supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with
+the current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and
+serene; the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the
+commencement of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the
+night the canoe struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the
+rush and roar of the wild waters, which broke around her. They were
+all obliged to jump overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was
+accomplished with much difficulty.
+
+In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at
+different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and
+was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed
+hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising
+to entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him.
+Their only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before
+they could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until
+he was fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled
+forward with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him
+in the rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the
+cord and slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles.
+There was nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however,
+than to beat a retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned
+suddenly round and made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous
+show of teeth. The affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle
+off. Scarce had they turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous
+claws on the gunwale, and attempted to get on board. The canoe was
+nearly overturned, and a deluge of water came pouring over the gunwale.
+All was clamor, terror, and confusion. Every one bawled out--the bear
+roared and snarled--one caught up a gun; but water had rendered it
+useless. Others handled their paddles more effectually, and beating old
+Bruin about the head and claws, obliged him to relinquish his hold. They
+now plied their paddles with might and main, the bear made the best
+of his way to shore, and so ended the second exploit of the noose; the
+hunters determined to have no more naval contests with grizzly bears.
+
+The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they
+were approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less
+dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties.
+
+In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted
+quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he
+supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed
+his voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at
+midday, to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters
+mounted a high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his
+eye round, when he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the
+river. Crouching down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he
+had seen. On further reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one
+lodges; and from the number of horses, computed that there must be
+nearly a hundred Indians encamped there. They now drew their boat, with
+all speed and caution, into a thicket of water willows, and remained
+closely concealed all day. As soon as the night closed in they
+re-embarked. The moon would rise early; so that they had but about two
+hours of darkness to get past the camp. The night, however, was cloudy,
+with a blustering wind. Silently, and with muffled oars, they glided
+down the river, keeping close under the shore opposite to the camp;
+watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark forms passing to
+and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of land, they found
+themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the river. It appeared
+that not more than one half of the band had crossed. They were within a
+few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages--some standing,
+some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some lodges were
+set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare of the
+fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the
+surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly
+came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked;
+but the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth
+instantly sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it
+struck upon a sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying
+situation; for he was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle
+range of both. All hands jumped out into the water, and tried to get
+the boat off; but as no one dared to give the word, they could not pull
+together, and their labor was in vain. In this way they labored for a
+long time; until Wyeth thought of giving a signal for a general heave,
+by lifting his hat. The expedient succeeded. They launched their canoe
+again into deep water, and getting in, had the delight of seeing the
+camp fires of the savages soon fading in the distance.
+
+They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond
+all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped.
+
+The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in
+carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm
+night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the
+night, taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night
+was occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse
+lowing of the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching
+of the small ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike
+sound of the swan.
+
+Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds,
+tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in
+extreme danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having
+continued to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under
+a great snag, or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These
+caught the mast, while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream,
+and began to fill with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but
+cutting away the mast. She then drove down the stream, but left one of
+the unlucky half-breeds clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole.
+It was necessary to run in shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies
+and to attain some distance above the snag, when they launched forth
+again into the stream and floated down with it to his rescue.
+
+We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of
+a months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in
+the course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the
+rival fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe.
+Neither shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as
+the voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of
+latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry
+and basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the
+characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still
+more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession
+of latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the
+frozen regions to the tropics.
+
+The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the
+rivers, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of
+the western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct
+the voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself
+in a stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from
+river to river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he
+might have kept on upward of two thousand miles, until his little
+bark should drift into the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at
+Cantonment Leavenworth, the frontier post of the United States; where he
+arrived on the 27th of September.
+
+Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed
+boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were
+hailed by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what
+appeared to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck
+Baptiste with such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy
+at the top of his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not
+Wyeth assured him of his safety. When they underwent the operation
+of the lancet, the doctor's wife and another lady were present; both
+beautiful women. They were the first white women that they had seen, and
+they could not keep their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat,
+they recounted to their companions all that they had observed at the
+fort; but were especially eloquent about the white squaws, who, they
+said, were white as snow, and more beautiful than any human being they
+had ever beheld.
+
+We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will
+simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in
+organizing an association under the name of "The Columbia River Fishing
+and Trading Company," for his original objects of a salmon fishery and
+a trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the
+Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at
+the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom
+were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the
+wilderness than his first band of "down-easters."
+
+We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left,
+making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley.
+
+
+
+
+42.
+
+     Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia--Advance of
+     Wyeth--Efforts to keep the lead--Hudson's Bay party--A
+     junketing--A delectable beverage--Honey and alcohol--High
+     carousing--The Canadian "bon vivant"--A cache--A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans--His travelling companions--Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality--An interruption.
+
+IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second
+visit to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He
+travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July
+a scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in
+the rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle
+in the camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to
+secure provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden
+to travel fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive
+all superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of
+the earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two
+miles further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line
+of horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and
+encamped close by.
+
+It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders,
+who, with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are
+employed to follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to
+another, and buy up their peltries.
+
+Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson's Bay Company, the
+captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening
+regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in
+these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon
+made, that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a
+midsummer banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was
+abundance of such hunters' fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it
+was all discussed with mountain appetites. They talked over all the
+events of their late campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been
+unlucky in some of his transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy.
+Captain Bonneville remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had
+no juice of the grape to keep it down.
+
+A man's wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a
+thought suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable
+beverage. Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted.
+This he filled up with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous
+ingredients together. The glorious results may readily be imagined;
+a happy compound of strength and sweetness, enough to soothe the most
+ruffled temper and unsettle the most solid understanding.
+
+The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first
+deep draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the
+second elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon
+companion; as all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became
+glorious; talked over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings
+with Indian braves, his loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old
+French ditties, and Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang
+louder and louder; until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety,
+he gradually declined, and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground.
+After a long nap he again raised his head, imbibed another potation of
+the "sweet and strong," flashed up with another slight blaze of French
+gayety, and again fell asleep.
+
+The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and
+sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and
+calling to mind the captain's dulcet compound, with many a retch and
+spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly
+and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and
+that he had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless
+and woebegone was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march
+without him; the captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after
+part of the day.
+
+As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville's men proceeded
+to construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the
+party of Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity
+to take the road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being
+lightened of a great part of their burdens, were able to move with
+celerity. As to the worthy convive of the preceding evening, he was
+carefully gathered up from the hunter's couch on which he lay, repentant
+and supine, and, being packed upon one of the horses, was hurried
+forward with the convoy, groaning and ejaculating at every jolt.
+
+In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of
+his party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly
+and courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes
+since they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his
+intention of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the
+Portneuf, and leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to
+trade with the neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this
+measure, in consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company
+to take a supply of goods which he had brought out for them according
+to contract; and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further
+informed Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky
+Mountain and American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious
+stratagems and deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the
+country between them, allotting boundaries within which each was to
+trade and hunt, so as not to interfere with the other.
+
+In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall,
+the botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the
+expedition to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these
+gentlemen we may look forward to important information concerning these
+interesting regions. There were three religious missionaries, also,
+bound to the shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel
+in that far wilderness.
+
+After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth
+returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press
+forward, and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and
+moralizing chief of the Hudson's Bay Company, under a proper escort, to
+rejoin his people; his route branching off in a different direction.
+The latter took a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future
+occasion, to repay his hospitality in kind.
+
+In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts
+out far ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had
+confidently expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of
+the Portneuf; but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen.
+
+At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the
+head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly
+grazing in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report
+his discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably
+entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to
+his own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o'clock of the
+same morning, Captain Bonneville's party were in the midst of the game.
+
+The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners,
+mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others
+of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for
+jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same
+purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing
+in the choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the
+scaffolds, and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and
+activity. At daylight the next morning, the runners again took the
+field, with similar success; and, after an interval of repose made their
+third and last chase, about twelve o'clock; for by this time, Wyeth's
+party was in sight. The game being now driven into a valley, at some
+distance, Wyeth was obliged to fix his camp there; but he came in the
+evening to pay Captain Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain
+Stewart, the amateur traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for
+the adventurous life of the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M'Kay,
+a half-breed; son of the unfortunate adventurer of the same name who
+came out in the first maritime expedition to Astoria and was blown up
+in the Tonquin. His son had grown up in the employ of the British fur
+companies; and was a prime hunter, and a daring partisan. He held,
+moreover, a farm in the valley of the Wallamut.
+
+The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville's camp, were
+surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party
+being dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present
+chance for hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of
+remaining with so trifling a guard in a region so full of danger.
+Captain Bonneville vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never
+hesitated to send out all his hunters, when any important object was to
+be attained; and experience had taught him that he was most secure when
+his forces were thus distributed over the surrounding country. He then
+was sure that no enemy could approach, from any direction, without
+being discovered by his hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the
+slightest signs of the proximity of Indians; and who would instantly
+convey intelligence to the camp.
+
+The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable
+entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of
+prime hunters' dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and
+roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in
+hunters' style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful
+hunting ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the
+puny gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian
+grace to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his
+mellifluous keg of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over
+the senses of the veteran of Hudson's Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again
+went round; never did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more
+rapturous commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that
+happy state which would have insured ample cause for the next day's
+repentance; and the bees were already beginning to buzz about their
+ears, when a messenger came spurring to the camp with intelligence that
+Wyeth's people had got entangled in one of those deep and frightful
+ravines, piled with immense fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the
+whole country about the head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel
+was instantly at an end; the keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was
+deserted; and the guests departed with all speed to aid in extricating
+their companions from the volcanic ravine.
+
+
+
+
+43.
+
+     A rapid march--A cloud of dust--Wild horsemen--"High Jinks"
+     Horseracing and rifle-shooting--The game of hand--The
+     fishing season--Mode of fishing--Table lands--Salmon
+     fishers--The captain's visit to an Indian lodge--The Indian
+     girl--The pocket mirror--Supper--Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.
+
+"UP and away!" is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader,
+when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the
+morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed
+upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered
+buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the
+Portneuf. His march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills,
+broken into cliffs and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms,
+where the rocks rose like walls.
+
+On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and
+as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring
+hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great
+cloud of dust rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening
+back to the camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made
+to receive an enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon
+the "running horses" kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In
+a little while, they made signals from a distance that all was friendly.
+By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a
+blast, and a band of wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the
+camp, yelling and whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their
+accoutrements, their mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made
+them seem a party of savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be
+principally half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness,
+who were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson's
+Bay Company.
+
+Here was again "high jinks" in the camp. Captain Bonneville's men hailed
+these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game
+birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of
+mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual
+details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals
+of laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses
+and rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to
+racing, and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded
+another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties,
+fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take
+place, when suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a
+strange kind of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them
+as a charm. Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded
+and the ideas of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws
+were turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking
+their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting
+amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the Far West.
+
+The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind
+of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of "Hand." This is
+played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing
+fire. It is in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or
+the button, and detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game,
+the object hidden, or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a
+small splint of wood, or other diminutive article that may be concealed
+in the closed hand. This is passed backward and forward among the party
+"in hand," while the party "out of hand" guess where it is concealed. To
+heighten the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles
+are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party "in
+hand" beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the choral chant
+already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as the game proceeds. As
+large bets are staked upon the game, the excitement is prodigious.
+Each party in turn bursts out in full chorus, beating, and yelling, and
+working themselves up into such a heat that the perspiration rolls down
+their naked shoulders, even in the cold of a winter night. The bets
+are doubled and trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement
+increases almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers
+are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
+
+These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire
+glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic
+orgies, and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding
+day, had not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the
+usual hour, issued his marching orders.
+
+Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly
+returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet
+scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was
+now the season of the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these
+parts celebrate the first appearance of the salmon in this river. These
+fish are taken in great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet
+pitch. The Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them
+as they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a
+sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and
+forming an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening
+is left for the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station
+themselves on small rafts, and ply their spears with great success.
+
+The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil,
+inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly
+speaking, wormwood. Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven
+occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches
+the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs, difficult to
+pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is impossible, for days
+together, to get down to the water's edge, to give drink to the horses.
+This obliges the traveller occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the
+river, and make a wide sweep into the interior.
+
+It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely
+from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were
+extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the
+edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the
+travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly
+shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of
+the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
+current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after
+the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant.
+
+At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly
+five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with
+groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in
+great numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to
+enable them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid
+race, and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one
+of the huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding
+to cook a fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and
+hung over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is
+considered cooked.
+
+Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain
+awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the
+repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part.
+While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him,
+and turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes,
+discovered a young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath,
+who directed her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to
+gaze in mute surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her
+fears, and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly
+to tie it round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a
+sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the
+captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man,
+succeed in conquering the shyness of the savage little beauty. His
+attentions were now turned toward the parents, whom he presented with
+an awl and a little tobacco, and having thus secured their good-will,
+continued to smoke his pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated
+near the threshold, an urchin of the family approached the door, but
+catching a sight of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and
+ensconced himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut.
+
+Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the
+simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere
+concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of
+a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After
+examining it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced
+a musk-rat skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head;
+but purchased the skin for a couple of buttons--superfluous trinkets! as
+the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to
+place them.
+
+The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in
+the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and
+a string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return;
+but could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being
+now completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous
+portion was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some
+fresh grass, which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted
+a salmon boiled so completely to his fancy.
+
+Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to
+his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils
+so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs of
+confusion and dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the
+kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became easy and
+communicative; and at length hinted something about exchanging beaver
+skins for horses. The captain at once offered to dispose of his steed,
+which stood fastened at the door. The bargain was soon concluded,
+whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of bushes under which his
+valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of skins agreed upon as
+the price.
+
+Shortly afterward, some of the captain's people coming up, he ordered
+another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from
+the hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple
+inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl
+had kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking,
+watching every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off,
+remained gazing after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however,
+delighted with his new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse,
+and followed in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a
+faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood.
+
+The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct
+of one of the captain's men, who had been in the California expedition.
+During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place,
+he had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled
+freely and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless,
+suspicious look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting
+often at the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who
+regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily
+a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the
+prospect of a battle. At length he requested permission of Captain
+Bonneville to keep out of the way of these people entirely. Their
+striking resemblance, he said, to the people of Ogden's River, made
+him continually fear that some among them might have seen him in that
+expedition; and might seek an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this,
+while they remained in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way
+and keep aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. "Such,"
+observed Captain Bonneville, "is the effect of self-reproach, even upon
+the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little else to fear than
+the stings of his own guilty conscience."
+
+
+
+
+44.
+
+     Outfit of a trapper--Risks to which he is subjected--
+     Partnership of trappers--Enmity of Indians--Distant smoke--A
+     country on fire--Gun Greek--Grand Rond--Fine pastures--
+     Perplexities in a smoky country--Conflagration of forests.
+
+IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along
+Snake River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this
+way a range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body.
+The outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder,
+and four pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe,
+a hatchet, a knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where
+supplies are plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two
+or three horses, to carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two
+trappers commonly go together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and
+support; a larger party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians.
+It is a service of peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for
+the Indians, since they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries
+with the traders, have learned the value of the beaver, and look
+upon the trappers as poachers, who are filching the riches from their
+streams, and interfering with their market. They make no hesitation,
+therefore, to murder the solitary trapper, and thus destroy a
+competitor, while they possess themselves of his spoils. It is
+with regret we add, too, that this hostility has in many cases been
+instigated by traders, desirous of injuring their rivals, but who have
+themselves often reaped the fruits of the mischief they have sown.
+
+When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of
+proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can
+graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a
+cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening,
+and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at
+daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch
+the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up
+before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior
+style; the tail is the trapper's tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end
+of a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than
+the tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo.
+
+With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot
+always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered,
+perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen
+curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages,
+whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they
+are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times,
+they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps,
+have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of
+one of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time
+to time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are
+found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless
+stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small
+streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate
+trappers that have been murdered on their banks.
+
+A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present
+instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended;
+for his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck
+Indians were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great
+distance, so that they would be apt to detect and cut off any
+stragglers. It behooved him, also, to keep his party together, to guard
+against any predatory attack upon the main body; he continued on his
+way, therefore, without dividing his forces. And fortunate it was that
+he did so; for in a little while he encountered one of the phenomena of
+the western wilds that would effectually have prevented his scattered
+people from finding each other again. In a word, it was the season of
+setting fire to the prairies. As he advanced he began to perceive great
+clouds of smoke at a distance, rising by degrees, and spreading over the
+whole face of the country. The atmosphere became dry and surcharged
+with murky vapor, parching to the skin, and irritating to the eyes. When
+travelling among the hills, they could scarcely discern objects at the
+distance of a few paces; indeed, the least exertion of the vision was
+painful. There was evidently some vast conflagration in the direction
+toward which they were proceeding; it was as yet at a great distance,
+and during the day they could only see the smoke rising in larger and
+denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense canopy. At night the
+skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen fires, hanging in
+an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon.
+
+Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left,
+Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and
+avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the
+Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope
+for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game
+might be scarce.
+
+During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke
+continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish
+the face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the
+travellers fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters
+of the Fourche de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand
+Rond. Here they found all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast
+conflagration; which swept over the long grass in billows of flame, shot
+up every bush and tree, rose in great columns from the groves, and set
+up clouds of smoke that darkened the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of
+fire, the travellers had to pursue their course close along the foot
+of the mountains; but the irritation from the smoke continued to be
+tormenting.
+
+The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into
+broad and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain
+springs and rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of
+the Skynses, to pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the
+salmon which abound in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in
+great quantities and without the least difficulty; simply taking them
+out of the water with their hands, as they flounder and struggle in
+the numerous long shoals of the principal streams. At the time the
+travellers passed over these prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams
+by which they were intersected were completely choked with salmon, which
+they took in great numbers. The wolves and bears frequent these streams
+at this season, to avail themselves of these great fisheries.
+
+The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great
+difficulties and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed
+to embrace the whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the
+time obscured by the smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from
+view. Blundering along in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were
+frequently obliged to make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they
+could not perceive until close upon them. The Indian trails were their
+safest guides, for though they sometimes appeared to lead them out of
+their direct course, they always conducted them to the passes.
+
+On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River.
+Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes
+its way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable,
+and appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce
+language, an intercourse was easily kept up with them.
+
+In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped
+for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses.
+Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search
+for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or
+Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and
+discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain
+defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and
+precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of
+frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of
+these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have
+been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree,
+from which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were
+not the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration
+of the country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was
+still more awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames
+which swept rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed
+a fiercer character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and
+ravines of the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up
+sheets of flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that
+in the night made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and
+forests, too, which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns
+of fire, and added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these
+stupendous sights were combined the rushing blasts caused by the
+rarefied air, which roared and howled through the narrow glens, and
+whirled forth the smoke and flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon,
+too, was heard the crash of falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags
+and precipices, with tremendous sounds.
+
+In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and
+blinding, that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only
+find each other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way
+through the yet burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and
+trunks of trees, which frequently fell across their path. At length
+they gave up the attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual
+circumstances, and made their way back to the camp to report their
+failure.
+
+
+
+
+45.
+
+     The Skynses--Their traffic--Hunting--Food--Horses--A horse-
+     race--Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads--Prayers--Exhortations--A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes--A new
+     light.
+
+DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been
+kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into
+the neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of
+the Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with
+the Hudson's Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the
+articles of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to
+the trading posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal
+traffic with the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep
+in distant and unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture
+near the trading houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally;
+and depend, for a part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence,
+however, is upon roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said
+to be of a delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it
+up in great quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter
+provisions. It grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains.
+
+This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles
+among them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of
+Captain Bonneville's men; offering a couple of good running horses for
+a light rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured
+from them on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a
+breed infinitely superior to any in the United States. They are fond of
+trying their speed and bottom, and of betting upon them.
+
+As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit
+of their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of
+speed between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to
+be well matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a
+half out and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead
+by a few hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the
+Shoshonie and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they
+went head and head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the
+race with great ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over.
+
+The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong
+devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some
+of the resident personages of the Hudson's Bay Company. Sunday is
+invariably kept sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their
+camp on that day, unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither
+will they hunt, nor fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on
+that day. A part of it is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies.
+Some chief, who is generally at the same time what is called a "medicine
+man," assembles the community. After invoking blessings from the Deity,
+he addresses the assemblage, exhorting them to good conduct; to be
+diligent in providing for their families; to abstain from lying and
+stealing; to avoid quarrelling or cheating in their play, and to be
+just and hospitable to all strangers who may be among them. Prayers
+and exhortations are also made, early in the morning, on week days.
+Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from horseback; moving slowly
+about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his exhortations with
+a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen with profound
+attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word in unison,
+apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and exhortations
+are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If an Indian
+is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and attends with
+reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his prayer
+or exhortation, he says, "I have done," upon which there is a general
+exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably derived
+from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of their old
+Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or ballad,
+which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose.
+Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the
+Roman Catholic Church.
+
+Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor
+savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and
+effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not
+merely from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from
+that of Mr. Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the
+Flatheads. "During the time I have been with them," says he, "I have
+never known an instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to
+a bead or pin, is brought to you, if found; and often, things that have
+been thrown away. Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This
+absence of all quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the
+various occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the
+crowding together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have
+to be driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the
+morning; the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty.
+All this, however, is done without confusion or disturbance.
+
+"They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed
+in their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one
+speaks, the rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents
+by 'yes,' or dissents by 'no;' and then states his reasons, which are
+listened to with equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable
+than any other children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor
+any quarrelling; although there were, at least, five hundred of them
+together, and continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit,
+they are brave when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal
+number of Blackfeet."
+
+The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative
+to the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain
+Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion,
+in conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the
+cultivation of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between
+their peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes,
+and attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He
+frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always
+enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed
+that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present.
+
+The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable
+degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead
+them, Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain;
+the country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the
+raising of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling
+assistance from government, to protect them from the predatory and
+warlike tribes, might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the
+midst of the great western wilderness, who would "wear the Americans
+near their hearts."
+
+We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity
+of this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all
+ardently addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar
+day for recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of
+season. After prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an
+hour in the day, says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several
+horses racing at full speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups
+of gamblers, ready to stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of
+hand. The Indians, says Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with
+more zest than the whites. They are great gamblers; and in proportion to
+their means, play bolder and bet higher than white men.
+
+The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the
+savages, has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more
+knowing traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them
+by being considered "medicine men;" that is, men gifted with mysterious
+knowledge. This feeling is also at times played upon by religious
+charlatans, who are to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One
+of these was noted by Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads.
+A new great man, says he, is rising in the camp, who aims at power
+and sway. He covers his designs under the ample cloak of religion;
+inculcating some new doctrines and ceremonials among those who are more
+simple than himself. He has already made proselytes of one-fifth of
+the camp; beginning by working on the women, the children, and the
+weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on the plain, to their own
+vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe look on and laugh;
+thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will soon find that
+women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every community,
+and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be
+considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of
+the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or
+branches off and sets up an independent chief and "medicine man."
+
+
+
+
+46.
+
+     Scarcity in the camp--Refusal of supplies by the Hudson's
+     Bay Company--Conduct of the Indians--A hungry retreat--John
+     Day's River--The Blue Mountains--Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country--Bear River Valley--
+     immense migration of buffalo--Danger of buffalo hunting--A
+     wounded Indian--Eutaw Indians--A "surround" of antelopes.
+
+PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville
+found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore,
+of his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing
+a low range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais.
+Being now within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of
+the Hudson's Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither
+to purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well
+received at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily
+refused. Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave
+their present employ, and enter into the service of the company; but
+they were not to be seduced.
+
+When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he
+ordered an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He
+pushed forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal
+to the Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the
+Wallah-Wallah. His route lay through a beautiful undulating country,
+covered with horses belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for
+pasturage.
+
+On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with
+the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they
+kept aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered
+that they were under the influence of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had
+forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded
+along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of
+provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length
+obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people.
+He now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and
+beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a
+little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble
+valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance
+under present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources
+of the country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous
+and powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely
+hope to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any
+longer in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and
+cut off their retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to
+reach the Blue Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the
+bighorn; and after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they
+might push through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by
+snow. Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly
+turned his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue
+Mountains. He took his course up John Day's River, so called from one
+of the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at
+his heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of
+October. He entered by the opening made by John Day's River; it was a
+rugged and difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed
+to hard scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had
+extinguished the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the
+mountains, no longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur
+and sublimity to the eye.
+
+They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in
+the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning
+from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them.
+It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to
+keep the party from starvation.
+
+To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for
+ten days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much
+perplexity, they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following
+the course of which, they were sure to reach their place of destination.
+
+It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon
+this noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty
+numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its
+banks to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for
+winter provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense
+quantities of fish drying upon them. At this season of the year,
+however, the salmon are extremely poor, and the travellers needed their
+keen sauce of hunger to give them a relish.
+
+In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead
+salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the
+fetid odor of which tainted the air.
+
+It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf
+that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the
+buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days,
+slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an
+enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found
+good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard
+travelling.
+
+During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be
+messengers sent express for supplies from Montero's party; which had
+been sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter
+on the Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but
+that they had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission,
+and were still in the Crow country, where they should remain until
+joined by Captain Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the
+messengers with him until the 17th of November, when, having reached the
+caches on Bear River, and procured thence the required supplies, he sent
+them back to their party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of
+June following, on the forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country.
+
+He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having
+discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased
+from them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and
+arranged with them to encamp together during the winter.
+
+The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the
+upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it
+as long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which
+would be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but
+slowly, merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his
+position. The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow
+lay to a considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried
+meat as possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage
+that could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to
+move slowly toward their winter quarters.
+
+They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the
+present winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the
+buffaloes before the snow had become deep, immense herds now came
+trooping over the mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from
+which their deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and
+mutterings from a gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke,
+and down came the torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly
+impossible, according to Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the
+effect produced by the sight of such countless throngs of animals of
+such bulk and spirit, all rushing forward as if swept on by a whirlwind.
+
+The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor
+to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party,
+finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without
+either rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was
+passing close by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such
+lucky aim as to bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but
+hunger had made him almost desperate.
+
+The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded
+in particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a
+bull produces no other effect than a toss of the head and greater
+exasperation; on the contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow
+is fatal. Several instances occurred during this great hunting bout,
+of bulls fighting furiously after having received mortal wounds.
+Wyeth, also, was witness to an instance of the kind while encamped
+with Indians. During a grand hunt of the buffaloes, one of the Indians
+pressed a bull so closely that the animal turned suddenly on him. His
+horse stopped short, or started back, and threw him. Before he could
+rise the bull rushed furiously upon him, and gored him in the chest so
+that his breath came out at the aperture. He was conveyed back to the
+camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself up for slain, he called
+round him his friends, and made his will by word of mouth. It was
+something like a death chant, and at the end of every sentence those
+around responded in concord. He appeared no ways intimidated by the
+approach of death. "I think," adds Wyeth, "the Indians die better than
+the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the future."
+
+The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the
+leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and
+move off from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles
+distant.
+
+The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now
+snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the
+winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual
+carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of
+the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with
+the appetite of a hunting camp.
+
+The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer.
+These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as
+the winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the
+report of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering
+in the air, no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of
+the wolves would peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the
+hunter's departure to pounce upon the carcass.
+
+Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the
+valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a
+band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They
+are a poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these
+regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root
+Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few
+rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows.
+
+As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of
+old grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was
+feared some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore,
+undertook the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs,
+inviting them to a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a
+reconciliation. His invitation was proudly declined; whereupon he
+went to them in person, and succeeded in effecting a suspension of
+hostilities until the chiefs of the two tribes could meet in
+council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly acquiesced in the
+arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill tops, and watch
+their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain below, and
+evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish. The
+worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent
+mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet
+buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united
+and mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would
+occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows
+would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the
+chiefs wisely took no notice of these individual brawls.
+
+One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of
+several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance.
+This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in
+ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin
+of the antelope. It was determined to have "a surround," as the mode of
+hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic
+solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms
+each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally
+with the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of
+animals which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries.
+After much grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed
+that all who were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should
+muster for "the surround." When all had congregated, they moved in rude
+procession to the nearest point of the valley in question, and there
+halted. Another course of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians
+are so fond, took place among the chiefs. Directions were then issued
+for the horsemen to make a circuit of about seven miles, so as to
+encompass the herd. When this was done, the whole mounted force dashed
+off simultaneously, at full speed, shouting and yelling at the top of
+their voices. In a short space of time the antelopes, started from
+their hiding-places, came bounding from all points into the valley. The
+riders, now gradually contracting their circle, brought them nearer and
+nearer to the spot where the senior chief, surrounded by the elders,
+male and female, were seated in supervision of the chase. The antelopes,
+nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and bewildered by perpetual
+whooping, made no effort to break through the ring of the hunters, but
+ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and child beat them down
+with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of antelope hunting,
+technically called "a surround."
+
+
+
+
+47.
+
+     A festive winter--Conversion of the Shoshonies--Visit of two
+     free trappers--Gayety in the camp--A touch of the tender
+     passion--The reclaimed squaw--An Indian fine lady--An
+     elopement--A pursuit--Market value of a bad wife.
+
+GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was
+overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches,
+buffalo tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire;
+and the whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast
+meat. It was, indeed, a continual "feast of fat things," and though
+there might be a lack of "wine upon the lees," yet we have shown that a
+substitute was occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol.
+
+Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great
+propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from
+their good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but
+then, they always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference
+and respect, and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of
+feats of activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward
+each other, also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville
+reason to hope that all past animosity was effectually buried.
+
+The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social
+manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form.
+The senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of
+observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new
+code of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended
+their devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in
+elevating the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined,
+by the same means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their
+ignorant rivals, the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and
+promulgated among them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the
+Nez Perces; recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were
+struck with the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it
+with spirit. They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have
+their devotional dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about
+which the ignorant Eutaws knew nothing; while they exerted their usual
+competition in shooting and horseracing, and the renowned game of hand.
+
+Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley
+community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free
+trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds
+as fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks' bells,
+came galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp.
+
+They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company,
+in the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of
+Captain Bonneville's company a visit. An idea may be formed from the
+scenes we have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the
+manner in which these game birds were received by those of their
+feather in the camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting,
+what bragging, what ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and
+squabbling and fighting, ensued among these boon companions. Captain
+Bonneville, it is true, maintained always a certain degree of law and
+order in his camp, and checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in
+their seasons of idleness and relaxation require a degree of license and
+indulgence, to repay them for the long privations and almost incredible
+hardships of their periods of active service.
+
+In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender
+passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among
+the Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free
+trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These
+connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue
+for years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free
+trapper starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition.
+
+In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain
+their belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their
+protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all
+that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race--whose gait, and
+garb, and bravery he emulates--with all that is gallant and glorious
+in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats her, the
+finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves, the sway
+she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the drudge
+and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and build his
+lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry blows.
+No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the
+wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave.
+
+With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. 'The
+beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken
+prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily
+ransomed for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured
+about the camp in fine array, "with rings on her fingers, and bells
+on her toes," and a tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy,
+admiration, and abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working
+squaws of her acquaintance.
+
+As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become
+the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of
+older date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his
+household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was
+the wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his
+eyes. All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the
+very proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of
+the trapper was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He
+endeavored to prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His
+horses were fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight
+they would be beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment
+in Green River Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at
+defiance.
+
+The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease
+and splendor of condition of a trapper's bride, and throbbed to be free
+from the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the
+failure of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted;
+the Indian girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with
+his thwarted passion.
+
+Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of
+the Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his
+lodge, with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At
+night, as the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered
+at the door of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She
+was ready to follow whithersoever he should lead.
+
+In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift
+of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up
+and saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over
+the snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of
+escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse
+before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and
+prairies be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the
+present, however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses
+forward over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every
+blast, they heard the yell of the pursuer.
+
+At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his
+swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of
+the fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds,
+however, which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the
+prints made by the horses' hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of
+them, and was completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the
+situation of the camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course
+through the mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the
+fugitives. Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his
+course by day and night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It
+was some time before the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had
+they traversed the wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and
+fatigue, and their horses faltering under them. The first object that
+met their eyes on entering the camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed,
+knife in hand, to plunge it in the heart that had proved false to him.
+The trapper threw himself before the cowering form of his mistress,
+and, exhausted as he was, prepared for a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie
+paused. His habitual awe of the white man checked his arm; the trapper's
+friends crowded to the spot, and arrested him. A parley ensued. A kind
+of crim. con. adjudication took place; such as frequently occurs
+in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared to be a fair
+compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost her heart;
+with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion. He
+returned to Captain Bonneville's camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is true;
+but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing that
+two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife.
+
+
+
+
+48.
+
+     Breaking up of winter quarters--Move to Green River--A
+     trapper and his rifle--An arrival in camp--A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress--Story of a Blackfoot belle.
+
+THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills,
+and from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping
+had arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who
+brought away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April
+(1835), the camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white
+men and their allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many
+regrets and sincere expressions of good-will; for their intercourse
+throughout the winter had been of the most friendly kind.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham's Fork, and reached the
+Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they
+remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were
+conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their
+vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant
+precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such
+dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle
+even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he
+takes it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him,
+ready to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly
+as a citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend
+and protector.
+
+On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind
+River Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to
+give their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey;
+for it was Captain Bonneville's intention to shape his course to the
+settlements; having already been detained by the complication of his
+duties, and by various losses and impediments, far beyond the time
+specified in his leave of absence.
+
+While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River
+Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and
+accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty
+hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had
+abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper;
+whom they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and
+baggage, and an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate
+prairie. The horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this
+helpless pair, and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their
+effects to the camp.
+
+The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress,
+especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately
+dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day
+they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart
+mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot
+beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper's
+bride.
+
+Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain
+Bonneville entered into conversation with her, and obtained from
+her many particulars concerning the habits and customs of her tribe;
+especially their wars and huntings. They pride themselves upon being the
+"best legs of the mountains," and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done
+in spring time, when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The
+heavy buffaloes then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily
+overtaken by the Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the
+surface. It is said, however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side
+of the Rocky Mountains are fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic
+side; those upon the plains of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by
+a horse that would outstrip the same animal in the neighborhood of the
+Platte, the usual hunting ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of
+further conversation, Captain Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her
+whole story; which gave a picture of savage life, and of the drudgery
+and hardships to which an Indian wife is subject.
+
+"I was the wife," said she, "of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served
+him faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well
+provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed
+water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat
+cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay
+him. I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the
+trouble of speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs
+and warriors smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things,
+in secret; but my feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see
+nothing but him.
+
+"When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I?
+When he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered
+without further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses;
+tied them to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his
+feet. If his moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which
+were dry and warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase.
+He could never say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the
+antelope, and the buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else
+was done by me. When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse
+and rode away; free as though he had fallen from the skies. He had
+nothing to do with the labor of the camp; it was I that packed the
+horses and led them on the journey. When we halted in the evening,
+and he sat with the other braves and smoked, it was I that pitched his
+lodge; and when he came to eat and sleep, his supper and his bed were
+ready.
+
+"I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on
+his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his
+wife.
+
+"Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how
+I was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant
+and fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother
+was not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps
+death. At length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the
+village. He pointed away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in
+peace among them. We parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the
+Nez Perces before me. I paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on;
+but my horse neighed, and I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to
+gallop forward. In a little while I was in the midst of the lodges. As
+I sat silent on my horse, the people gathered round me, and inquired
+whence I came. I told my story. A chief now wrapped his blanket close
+around him, and bade me dismount. I obeyed. He took my horse to lead him
+away. My heart grew small within me. I felt, on parting with my horse,
+as if my last friend was gone. I had no words, and my eyes were dry. As
+he led off my horse a young brave stepped forward. 'Are you a chief of
+the people?' cried he. 'Do we listen to you in council, and follow
+you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp from the dogs of
+Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your face! The stranger
+is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a warrior at her
+side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse. But he is
+yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!'--his bow was
+drawn, and the arrow ready!--'you never shall cross his back!' The arrow
+pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead.
+
+"An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my
+heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears;
+like the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the
+days passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in
+praise of the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace.
+
+"A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for
+his wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and
+I have taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this
+way, some of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses
+of the party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The
+guns were laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white
+men attempted to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began.
+The snow was deep, the white men sank into it at every step; but the
+red men, with their snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and
+drove off many of the horses in sight of their owners. With those that
+remained we resumed our journey. At length words took place between the
+leader of the party and my husband. He took away our horses, which had
+escaped in the battle, and turned us from his camp. My husband had one
+good friend among the trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had
+asked assistance for them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he
+came in from hunting, and found that we had been driven away, he gave up
+all his wages, and followed us, that he might speak good words for us to
+the white captain."
+
+
+
+
+49.
+
+     Rendezvous at Wind River--Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country--Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet--Death--of Arapooish--Blackfeet lurkers--Sagacity
+     of the horse--Dependence of the hunter on his horse--Return
+     to the settlements.
+
+ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the
+forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he
+was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the
+preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to
+the Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions;
+after trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder
+River. Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated
+him with unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter
+quarters among them.
+
+The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their
+old enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the
+flower of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest,
+Arapooish, the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous
+chief had beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in
+his tribe, and that it was declining in force, and must eventually
+be destroyed unless some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its
+fortunes. In a pitched battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his
+warriors, urging them to set everything at hazard in one furious charge;
+which done, he led the way into the thickest of the foe. He was
+soon separated from his men, and fell covered with wounds, but his
+self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet were defeated; and
+from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and were frequently
+successful.
+
+Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that
+the Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters
+came galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy
+was at hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed
+out in squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the
+midst of a plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage
+of numbers, and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the
+Blackfeet were slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of
+willows, where the horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows
+vigorously.
+
+The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
+bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best
+mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then
+advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which
+the tribe is noted. When within an arrow's flight of the thicket, he
+loosened his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the
+opposite side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe;
+in this way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows
+from under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle,
+he wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions,
+who received him with yells of applause.
+
+Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet
+were not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared
+to drive desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt
+the thicket. Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned
+all-glorious with the scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts
+and triumphs, the scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies,
+and all the other fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves
+had finished with the scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women
+and children, and made the objects of new parades and dances. They were
+then treasured up as invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves
+who had won them.
+
+It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through
+policy or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The
+warrior who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such
+case, the war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down,
+and the shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and
+abandoned to the triumph and insults of the million.
+
+To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape
+from the extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be
+oppressive, Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their
+camps, and there formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a
+vigilant watch at night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze
+during the day, under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut
+up in strong pens, built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during
+a portion of the winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find
+but little sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above
+the snow; but they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender
+branches of the trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the
+first moments of freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in
+frisking and gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work,
+to glean their scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men
+stripped the bark of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the
+poor horses would return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air,
+the moment they saw their owners approaching them with blankets filled
+with cotton-wood bark, their whole demeanor underwent a change. A
+universal neighing and capering took place; they would rush forward,
+smell to the blankets, paw the earth, snort, whinny and prance round
+with head and tail erect, until the blankets were opened, and the
+welcome provender spread before them. These evidences of intelligence
+and gladness were frequently recounted by the trappers as proving the
+sagacity of the animal.
+
+These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some
+respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced
+trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times
+of peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the
+horses. No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their
+notice, and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said,
+will even indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the
+danger threatens.
+
+In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting
+up the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse
+as a sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him,
+and by his starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of
+strangers. There seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of
+fraternal sympathy between the hunter and his horse. They mutually
+rely upon each other for company and protection; and nothing is more
+difficult, it is said, than to surprise an experienced hunter on the
+prairie while his old and favorite steed is at his side.
+
+Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows,
+and fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders
+discovered his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a
+vigilant watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who,
+at length, seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the
+neighborhood. The trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one
+night, after a day of severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole
+camp was soon asleep. Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers
+were roused by the trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole
+party were immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars
+were down; but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being
+all found hard by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through
+negligence. All were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was
+a second alarm, and it was discovered that several horses were missing.
+The rest were mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that
+eighteen of the number carried off were regained, and but three remained
+in possession of the enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about
+the camp the preceding day. In the morning it was discovered that a
+Blackfoot was entrapped by one of them, but had succeeded in dragging
+it off. His trail was followed for a long distance which he must have
+limped alone. At length he appeared to have fallen in with some of his
+comrades, who had relieved him from his painful encumbrance.
+
+These were the leading incidents of Montero's campaign in the Crow
+country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough
+hunters' style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville
+made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers
+to open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue
+of his men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not
+detail his journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point
+to point of the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier
+settlements on the 22d of August.
+
+Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken
+for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged
+almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during
+three years of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous
+town, however, produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample
+brim and longest nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and
+pantaloons of the most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn
+trapper's equipments; and the happy wearers might be seen strolling
+about in all directions, scattering their silver like sailors just from
+a cruise.
+
+The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
+excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged
+resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back
+to the wilderness with regret. "Though the prospect," says he, "of once
+more tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and
+nights under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its
+attractions; yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in
+the stirring excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in
+the wilderness, the change was far from promising an increase of that
+contentment and inward satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who,
+like myself, has roved almost from boyhood among the children of the
+forest, and over the unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western
+wastes, will not be startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the
+fascinations of the world on this civilized side of the mountains, I
+would fain make my bow to the splendors and gayeties of the metropolis,
+and plunge again amidst the hardships and perils of the wilderness."
+
+We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
+satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually
+in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may
+meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of
+collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds
+and their motley inhabitants.
+
+We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild
+inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have
+been anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular
+state of things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great
+changes, if not entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has
+given life to all this portraiture, is essentially evanescent.
+Rival parties of trappers soon exhaust the streams, especially when
+competition renders them heedless and wasteful of the beaver. The
+furbearing animals extinct, a complete change will come over the scene;
+the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out in wild array, and
+tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war chief, plumed and
+painted and ever on the prowl; the traders' cavalcade, winding through
+defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party lurking on its
+trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse in the
+midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the fierce
+skirmish among rocks and cliffs--all this romance of savage life, which
+yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in frontier story,
+and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale.
+
+Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed
+among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite,
+perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain
+of mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either
+side, are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which
+prevails there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under
+the aridity of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes.
+An immense belt of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several
+hundred miles in width, must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness,
+intervening between the abodes of civilization, and affording a last
+refuge to the Indian. Here roving tribes of hunters, living in tents
+or lodges, and following the migrations of the game, may lead a life of
+savage independence, where there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the
+white man. The amalgamation of various tribes, and of white men of every
+nation, will in time produce hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of
+the Caucasus. Possessed as they are of immense droves of horses should
+they continue their present predatory and warlike habits, they may in
+time become a scourge to the civilized frontiers on either side of the
+mountains, as they are at present a terror to the traveller and trader.
+
+The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of
+establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders
+in their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the
+outposts into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid
+open, so as to maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put
+an end to the kind of "blackmail," levied on all occasions by the savage
+"chivalry of the mountains."
+
+
+
+
+Appendix
+
+Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West
+
+WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western
+campaigning; yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some
+particulars concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth;
+anecdotes of whose enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in
+the party-colored web of our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of
+establishing a trading post on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall.
+Here, for the first time, the American flag was unfurled to the breeze
+that sweeps the great naked wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving
+twelve men here, with a stock of goods, to trade with the neighboring
+tribes, he prosecuted his journey to the Columbia; where he established
+another post, called Fort Williams, on Wappatoo Island, at the mouth
+of the Wallamut. This was to be the head factory of his company; whence
+they were to carry on their fishing and trapping operations, and their
+trade with the interior; and where they were to receive and dispatch
+their annual ship.
+
+The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had
+observed that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free
+trappers, as well as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for
+their supplies upon goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence
+of the expenses and risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them
+at an immense advance on first cost. He had an idea that they might be
+much more cheaply supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost
+much less on the borders of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the
+transportation by land was much shorter; and through a country much more
+safe from the hostility of savage tribes; which, on the route from and
+to St. Louis, annually cost the lives of many men. On this idea, he
+grounded his plan. He combined the salmon fishery with the fur trade. A
+fortified trading post was to be established on the Columbia, to carry
+on a trade with the natives for salmon and peltries, and to fish and
+trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship was to come from the
+United States, to bring out goods for the interior trade, and to take
+home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part of the goods,
+thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to supply the
+trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their furs;
+which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in
+the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The
+profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses
+of the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home,
+would cost nothing as to freight.
+
+His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
+perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met
+with, prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to
+conceive, and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had
+once more reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria;
+and had he been enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly
+effected, he might have regained for his country the opulent trade of
+the Columbia, of which our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be
+dispossessed.
+
+It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and
+cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such
+as all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea
+and land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital
+to enable him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold
+on until success had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous
+experiments.
+
+It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled
+to dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson's
+Bay Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own
+account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great
+fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still
+maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the
+Columbia and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered
+powers permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr.
+Astor, when he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia.
+From their emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every
+direction, to supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and
+to trap upon the various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse
+the plains, penetrate to the heart of the mountains, extend their
+enterprises northward, to the Russian possessions, and southward, to the
+confines of California. Their yearly supplies are received by sea, at
+Vancouver; and thence their furs and peltries are shipped to London.
+They likewise maintain a considerable commerce, in wheat and
+lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north, with the Russian
+settlements.
+
+Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in
+the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance;
+yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight,
+and subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish
+a monopoly of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are
+adroitly proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by
+securing all the strong points of the country.
+
+Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of
+the main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept
+up as a fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to
+shipping have been taken possession of, and posts recently established
+at them by the company.
+
+The great capital of this association; their long established system;
+their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal
+organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a
+machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians,
+give them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely
+the latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until
+the question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries.
+The sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious
+to national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and
+every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it.
+
+The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the
+Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country.
+Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being
+rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower
+country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give
+sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great
+population of graziers and agriculturists.
+
+Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which
+the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here,
+the company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its
+superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is
+about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The
+climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while
+the soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri
+lands. The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated
+for a great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for
+the mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature,
+that grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out
+to pasture during the winter.
+
+These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future
+settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the
+embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present
+they lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and
+trapper, present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful
+agriculturists and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem
+with waving crops, or be covered with flocks and herds.
+
+The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company
+restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the
+hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would
+be brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of
+Mr. Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire.
+
+
+
+
+Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast
+
+THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr.
+Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as
+to the manner in which America has been peopled.
+
+"Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese
+junk was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen
+Charlotte's Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced
+by starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were
+killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson's
+Bay Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at
+Vancouver, in 1834."
+
+
+
+
+Instructions to Captain Bonneville
+
+from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States.
+
+Copy
+
+Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831.
+
+Sir,
+
+The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling
+you to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the
+Rocky Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and
+character of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the
+trade which might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the
+soil, the productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate,
+the Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts
+of the Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the
+United States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly
+considered, and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has
+been sanctioned.
+
+You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October
+1833.
+
+It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in
+reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with
+yourself, and all that you required was the permission from the proper
+authority to undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing
+yourself for the expedition, provide suitable instruments, and
+especially the best Maps of the interior to be found. It is desirable
+besides what is enumerated as the object of enterprise that you note
+particularly the number of Warriors that may belong to each tribe, or
+nation that you may meet with: their alliances with other tribes and
+their relative position as to a state of peace or war, and whether their
+friendly or warlike dispositions towards each other are recent or of
+long standing. You will gratify us by describing the manner of their
+making War, of the mode of subsisting themselves during a state of war,
+and a state of peace, their Arms, and the effect of them, whether they
+act on foot or on horse back, detailing the discipline, and manuvers
+of the war parties, the power of their horses, size and general
+discription; in short any information which you may conceive would be
+useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of every opportunity
+of informing us of your position and progress, and at the expiration of
+your leave of absence will join your proper station.
+
+I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St
+
+(Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg
+
+To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
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+  <head>
+    <title>
+      The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by Washington Irving
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 20%;}
+    div.fig    { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+    .figleft   {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+    .figright  {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+    .pagenum   {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal;
+               margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+               text-align: right;}
+    pre        { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
+</style>
+  </head>
+  <body>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by
+Washington Irving
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
+       Digested From His Journal
+
+Author: Washington Irving
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2006 [EBook #1372]
+Last Updated: October 12, 2018
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h1>
+      THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE
+    </h1>
+    <h2>
+      Digested from his journal
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h3>
+      by Washington Irving
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      Originally published in 1837
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <blockquote>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> Introductory Notice </a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> 1. -- State of the fur trade of the—Rocky Mountains—American
+     enterprises—General—Ashley and his associates—Sublette, a
+     famous leader—Yearly rendezvous among the mountains—
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade—Bands of trappers—
+     Indian banditti—Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers—Traders
+     of the—Far West—Character and habits of the trapper </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> 2. -- Departure from—Fort Osage—Modes of transportation—Pack-
+     horses—Wagons—Walker and Cerre; their characters—Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies—Wild equipments of
+     the trappers—Their gambols and antics—Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers—Agency
+     of the Kansas—General—Clarke—White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief—Night scene in a trader’s camp—Colloquy between—
+     White Plume and the captain—Bee-hunters—Their
+     expeditions—Their feuds with the Indians—Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> 3. --  Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills—Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River—Scanty fare—Buffalo
+     skulls—Wagons turned into boats—Herds of buffalo—Cliffs
+     resembling castles—The chimney—Scott’s Bluffs Story
+     connected with them—The bighorn or ahsahta—Its nature and
+     habits—Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or
+     goat of the mountains </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> 4. -- An alarm—Crow—Indians—Their appearance—Mode of approach
+     —Their vengeful errand—Their curiosity—Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet—Loving conduct of the Crows—
+     Laramie’s Fork—First navigation of the—Nebraska—Great
+     elevation of the country—Rarity of the atmosphere—Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons—Black Hills—Their wild
+     and broken scenery—Indian dogs—Crow trophies—Sterile and
+     dreary country—Banks of the Sweet Water—Buffalo hunting—
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> 5. --  Magnificent scenery—Wind River—Mountains—Treasury of
+     waters—A stray horse—An Indian trail—Trout streams—The
+     Great Green River Valley—An alarm—A band of trappers—
+     Fontenelle, his information—Sufferings of thirst—
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee—Strategy of rival traders—
+     Fortification of the camp—The—Blackfeet—Banditti of the
+     mountains—Their character and habits </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> 6. -- Sublette and his band—Robert—Campbell—Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of “down-easters”—Yankee enterprise—Fitzpatrick—His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet—A rendezvous of mountaineers—
+     The battle of—Pierre’s Hole—An Indian ambuscade—
+     Sublette’s return </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> 7. -- Retreat of the Blackfeet—Fontenelle’s camp in danger—
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet—Free trappers—Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses—Game fellows
+     of the mountains—Their visit to the camp—Good fellowship
+     and good cheer—A carouse—A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> 8. -- Plans for the winter—Salmon River—Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains—New arrangements—Caches—Cerre’s
+     detachment—Movements in—Fontenelle’s camp—Departure of
+     the—Blackfeet—Their fortunes—Wind—Mountain streams—
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear—Bones of
+     murdered travellers—Visit to Pierre’s Hole—Traces of the
+     battle—Nez—Perce—Indians—Arrival at—Salmon River </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> 9. -- Horses turned loose—Preparations for winter quarters—
+     Hungry times—Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies—Captain Bonneville’s
+     conversations with them—Their love of gambling </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> 10.-- Black Feet in the Horse Prairie—Search after the hunters—
+     Difficulties and dangers—A card party in the wilderness—
+     The card party interrupted—“Old Sledge” a losing game—
+     Visitors to the camp—Iroquois hunters—Hanging-eared
+     Indians </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> 11. -- Rival trapping parties—Manoeuvring—A desperate game—
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet—Deserted camp fire—A dark
+     defile—An Indian ambush—A fierce melee—Fatal
+     consequences—Fitzpatrick and Bridger—Trappers precautions
+     —Meeting with the Blackfeet—More fighting—Anecdote of a
+     young—Mexican and an Indian girl. </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> 12. -- A winter camp in the wilderness—Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians—Scarcity of game—New arrangements in
+     the camp—Detachments sent to a distance—Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped—Sickness among the Indians—
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces—The Captain’s effort
+     as a pacificator—A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war—
+     Robberies, by the Black feet—Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces—A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains—More
+     robberies—The Captain preaches up a crusade—The effect
+     upon his hearers.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> 13. -- Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> 14. -- The party enters the mountain gorge—A wild fastness among
+     hills—Mountain mutton—Peace and plenty—The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding—A free trapper’s wife—Her gala
+     equipments—Christmas in the wilderness. </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> 15. -- A hunt after hunters—Hungry times—A voracious repast—
+     Wintry weather—Godin’s River—Splendid winter scene on the
+     great—Lava Plain of Snake River—Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow—Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman—Encampment on Snake River—Banneck Indians—The
+     horse chief—His charmed life.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> 16. -- Misadventures of Matthieu and his party—Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River—Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet—Heroism of a Nez Perce woman—Enrolled among the
+     braves.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> 17. -- Opening of the caches—Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains—Superstition of an Indian trapper—
+     Godin’s River—Preparations for trapping—An alarm—An
+     interruption—A rival band—Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms—Ingulfed streams—Sublime scenery—A
+     grand buffalo hunt.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> 18. -- Meeting with Hodgkiss—Misfortunes of the Nez Perces—
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado—His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie—Invasion of Black feet—Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope—Their generous enterprise—Their fate—Consternation
+     and despair of the village—Solemn obsequies—Attempt at
+     Indian trade—Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly—Arrangements
+     for autumn—Breaking up of an encampment.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> 19. -- Precautions in dangerous defiles—Trappers’ mode of defence
+     on a prairie—A mysterious visitor—Arrival in Green River
+     Valley—Adventures of the detachments—The forlorn partisan
+     —His tale of disasters.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> 20. -- Gathering in Green River valley—Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders—Rough wassailing among the trappers—Wild blades of
+     the mountains—Indian belles—Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets—Arrival of supplies—Revelry and extravagance
+     —Mad wolves—The lost Indian</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> 21. -- Schemes of Captain Bonneville—The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it—Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> 22. -- The Crow country—A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows—
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man—His fights with
+     the Blackfeet—His elevation—His death—Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief—His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell—Honor among
+     Crows</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> 23. -- Departure from—Green River valley—Popo-Agie—Its course—
+     The rivers into which it runs—Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring—Volcanic tracts in the Crow country—
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River—Sulphur springs—Hidden
+     fires—Colter’s Hell-Wind River—Campbell’s party—
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers—Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller—Nathaniel Wyeth—Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West—Disaster of Campbell’s party—A union of
+     bands—The Bad Pass—The rapids—Departure of Fitzpatrick—
+     Embarkation of peltries—Wyeth and his bull boat—Adventures
+     of Captain—Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains—Adventures
+     in the plain—Traces of Indians—Travelling precautions—
+     Dangers of making a smoke—The rendezvous</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> 24. -- Adventures of the party of ten—The—Balaamite mule—A dead
+     point—The mysterious elks—A night attack—A retreat—
+     Travelling under an alarm—A joyful meeting—Adventures of
+     the other party—A decoy elk—Retreat to an island—A savage
+     dance of triumph—Arrival at Wind River</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> 25. -- Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley—Journey
+     up the Popo Agie—Buffaloes—The staring white bears—The
+     smok—The warm springs—Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains—The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms—
+     Crystal lakes—Ascent of a snowy peak—Sublime prospect—A
+     panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> 26. -- A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent—Alpine
+     scenery—Cascades—Beaver valleys—Beavers at work—Their
+     architecture—Their modes of felling trees—Mode of trapping
+     beaver—Contests of skill—A beaver “up to trap”—Arrival at
+     the Green River caches</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> 27. -- Route toward—Wind River—Dangerous neighborhood—Alarms and
+     precautions—A sham encampment—Apparition of an Indian spy—
+     Midnight move—A mountain defile—The Wind River valley—
+     Tracking a party—Deserted camps—Symptoms of Crows—Meeting
+     of comrades—A trapper entrapped—Crow pleasantry—Crow
+     spies—A decampment—Return to Green River valley—Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick’s party—Their adventures among the Crows—
+     Orthodox Crows </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> 28. --  A region of natural curiosities—The plain of white clay—
+     Hot springs—The Beer Spring—Departure to seek the free
+     trappers—Plain of Portneuf—Lava—Chasms and gullies—
+     Bannack Indians—Their hunt of the buffalo—Hunter’s feast—
+     Trencher heroes—Bullying of an absent foe—The damp
+     comrade—The Indian spy—Meeting with Hodgkiss—His
+     adventures—Poordevil Indians—Triumph of the Bannacks—
+     Blackfeet policy in war</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> 29. -- Winter camp at the Portneuf—Fine springs—The Bannack
+     Indians—Their honesty—Captain—Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition—Christmas—The American—Falls—Wild scenery—
+     Fishing Falls—Snake Indians—Scenery on the Bruneau—View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain—Powder River—
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers—Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs—Vanity at its last shift</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0031"> 30. -- Temperature of the climate—Root Diggers on horseback—An
+     Indian guide—Mountain prospects—The Grand Rond—
+     Difficulties on Snake River—A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains—Sufferings from hunger—Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley—The exhausted traveller</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0032"> 31. -- Progress in the valley—An Indian cavalier—The captain
+     falls into a lethargy—A Nez-Perce patriarch—Hospitable
+     treatment—The bald head—Bargaining—Value of an old plaid
+     cloak—The family horse—The cost of an Indian present</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0033"> 32. -- Nez-Perce camp—A chief with a hard name—The Big Hearts of
+     the East—Hospitable treatment—The Indian guides—
+     Mysterious councils—The loquacious chief—Indian tomb—
+     Grand Indian reception—An Indian feast—Town-criers—
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces—The captain’s attempt at
+     healing.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0034"> 33. -- Scenery of the Way-lee-way—A substitute for tobacco—
+     Sublime scenery of—Snake River—The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin—A Nez-Perce meeting—A stolen skin—The
+     scapegoat dog—Mysterious conferences—The little chief—His
+     hospitality—The captain’s account of the United States—His
+     healing skill</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0035"> 34. -- Fort Wallah-Wallah—Its commander—Indians in its
+     neighborhood—Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement—Religion—Code of laws—Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces—Camash, and other roots—Nez—Perce horses—
+     Preparations for departure—Refusal of supplies—Departure—
+     A laggard and glutton</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0036"> 35. -- The uninvited guest—Free and easy manners—Salutary jokes—
+     A prodigal son—Exit of the glutton—A sudden change in
+     fortune—Danger of a visit to poor relations—Plucking of a
+     prosperous man—A vagabond toilet—A substitute for the very
+     fine horse—Hard travelling—The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt—A beggar on horseback—A catastrophe—Exit
+     of the merry vagabond</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0037"> 36. -- The difficult mountain—A smoke and consultation—The
+     captain’s speech—An icy turnpike—Danger of a false step—
+     Arrival on Snake River—Return to—Portneuf—Meeting of
+     comrades </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0038"> 37. -- Departure for the rendezvous—A war party of Blackfeet—A
+     mock bustle—Sham fires at night—Warlike precautions—
+     Dangers of a night attack—A panic among horses—Cautious
+     march—The Beer Springs—A mock carousel—Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes—A buffalo bait—Arrival at the rendezvous—
+     Meeting of various bands</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0039"> 38. -- Plan of the Salt Lake expedition—Great sandy deserts—
+     Sufferings from thirst—Ogden’s—River—Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages—Thefts at night—A trapper’s revenge—
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience—A murderous victory—
+     Californian mountains—Plains along the—Pacific—Arrival
+     at—Monterey—Account of the place and neighborhood—Lower—
+     California—Its extent—The Peninsula—Soil—Climate—
+     Production—Its settlements by the Jesuits—Their sway over
+     the Indians—Their expulsion—Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment—Sublime scenery—Upper California Missions—
+     Their power and policy—Resources of the country—Designs of
+     foreign nations
+
+</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0040"> 39. -- Gay life at Monterey—Mexican horsemen—A bold dragoon—Use
+     of the lasso—Vaqueros—Noosing a bear—Fight between a bull
+     and a bear—Departure from Monterey—Indian horse stealers—
+     Outrages committed by the travellers—Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0041"> 40. -- Traveller’s tales—Indian lurkers—Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents—The medicine wolf—An alarm—An ambush
+     The captured provant—Triumph of Buckeye—Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse—Arrangements for the year—Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0042"> 41. -- A voyage in a bull boat.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0044"> 42. -- Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia—Advance of
+     Wyeth—Efforts to keep the lead—Hudson’s Bay party—A
+     junketing—A delectable beverage—Honey and alcohol—High
+     carousing—The Canadian “bon vivant”—A cache—A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans—His travelling companions—Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality—An interruption.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0045"> 43. -- A rapid march—A cloud of dust—Wild horsemen—“High Jinks”
+      Horseracing and rifle-shooting—The game of hand—The
+     fishing season—Mode of fishing—Table lands—Salmon
+     fishers—The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge—The Indian
+     girl—The pocket mirror—Supper—Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0046"> 44. -- Outfit of a trapper—Risks to which he is subjected—
+     Partnership of trappers—Enmity of Indians—Distant smoke—A
+     country on fire—Gun Greek—Grand Rond—Fine pastures—
+     Perplexities in a smoky country—Conflagration of forests.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0047"> 45. -- The Shynses—Their traffic—Hunting—Food—Horses—A horse-
+     race—Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads—Prayers—Exhortations—A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes—A new
+     light.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0048"> 46. -- Scarcity in the camp—Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s
+     Bay Company—Conduct of the Indians—A hungry retreat—John
+     Day’s River—The Blue Mountains—Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country—Bear River Valley—
+     immense migration of buffalo—Danger of buffalo hunting—A
+     wounded Indian—Eutaw Indians—A “surround” of antelopes.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0049"> 47. -- A festive winter—Conversion of the Shoshonies—Visit of two
+     free trappers—Gayety in the camp—A touch of the tender
+     passion—The reclaimed squaw—An Indian fine lady—An
+     elopement—A pursuit—Market value of a bad wife.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0050"> 48. -- Breaking up of winter quarters—Move to Green River—A
+     trapper and his rifle—An arrival in camp—A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress—Story of a Blackfoot belle.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0051"> 49. -- Rendezvous at Wind River—Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country—Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet—Death—of Arapooish—Blackfeet lurkers—Sagacity
+     of the horse—Dependence of the hunter on his horse—Return
+     to the settlements.</a>
+      </p>
+      <p>
+        <br />
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_APPE"> Appendix </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0053"> Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest
+        Coast </a>
+      </p>
+      <p class="toc">
+        <a href="#link2H_4_0054"> Instructions to Captain Bonneville </a>
+      </p>
+    </blockquote>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      Introductory Notice
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria, it
+      was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with the
+      subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at the
+      table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur trade
+      in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various persons
+      of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own great
+      undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to the
+      Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain
+      Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of
+      enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the
+      soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme of
+      the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him may not
+      be unacceptable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old
+      emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his abode
+      in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for the sordid
+      struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy temperament, a
+      festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that made him proof
+      against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar; well acquainted
+      with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics. His book was his
+      elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire, Corneille, or Racine, or
+      of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he forgot the world and all
+      its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer weather, seated under one
+      of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of St. Paul&rsquo;s church in
+      Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by his side, his eyes
+      riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul so engaged, as to lose
+      all consciousness of the passing throng or the passing hour.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his father&rsquo;s
+      bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter was somewhat
+      disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He was educated at
+      our national Military Academy at West Point, where he acquitted himself
+      very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which he has ever since
+      continued.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for a
+      number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West. Here
+      he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders, mountain
+      trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so excited by
+      their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their accounts of vast
+      and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an expedition to the Rocky
+      Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart, and an enterprise to
+      explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his ambition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality. Having
+      made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading enterprise
+      beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave of absence,
+      and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the major general in
+      chief, on his offering to combine public utility with his private
+      projects, and to collect statistical information for the War Department
+      concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit in the course
+      of his journeyings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the
+      ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand
+      dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom any
+      thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which
+      belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great
+      focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any
+      scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to
+      meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been
+      his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship for
+      him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain; introduced
+      him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little while an
+      association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised to carry the
+      proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient persons in this
+      association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a youth, had accompanied
+      one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to his commercial
+      establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished himself by his
+      activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr. Seton was one of
+      the American youths who were at Astoria at the time of its surrender to
+      the British, and who manifested such grief and indignation at seeing the
+      flag of their country hauled down. The hope of seeing that flag once more
+      planted on the shores of the Columbia, may have entered into his motives
+      for engaging in the present enterprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition into
+      the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after year
+      elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence expired, yet
+      no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington. He was
+      considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from the army
+      list.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob Astor,
+      at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was then just
+      returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the mountains,
+      and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the hopes of
+      being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn, his
+      wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity and
+      his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like Corporal
+      Trim in his campaigns, he had &ldquo;satisfied the sentiment,&rdquo; and that was all.
+      In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted soldier, and had
+      inherited too much of his father&rsquo;s temperament, to make a scheming
+      trapper, or a thrifty bargainer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that
+      prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and
+      well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service, gave
+      him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open, and engaging;
+      well browned by the sun, and had something of a French expression. He had
+      a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he kept his hat on, the
+      look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but the moment his head was
+      uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a few more years than he was
+      really entitled to.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with the
+      Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him a
+      number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled
+      modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of
+      voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature of
+      his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking personage
+      before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of
+      Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow
+      adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered
+      with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing at
+      a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large barrack
+      room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and war
+      dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with
+      pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting. In
+      a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at court,
+      by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his
+      travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he
+      sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of
+      somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures of
+      authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently
+      put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before the
+      world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the mountains,
+      and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red men, among
+      whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress of his
+      character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his susceptibility
+      to the grand and beautiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have
+      occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various sources,
+      especially from the conversations and journals of some of the captain&rsquo;s
+      contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes. I have also
+      given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation, during an
+      excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of civilization; as I
+      before observed, however, the work is substantially the narrative of the
+      worthy captain, and many of its most graphic passages are but little
+      varied from his own language.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his
+      manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I found
+      him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which, I believe,
+      possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary documents of
+      the kind, of being sincere, and being merited.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor, whose
+      anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants, have
+      endeared him to the service as The Soldier&rsquo;s Friend; and whose general
+      amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and unwearied
+      benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The Friend of Man,
+      this work is inscribed, etc.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      WASHINGTON IRVING <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br />
+    </p>
+    <h2>
+      1.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     State of the fur trade of the&mdash;Rocky Mountains&mdash;American
+     enterprises&mdash;General&mdash;Ashley and his associates&mdash;Sublette, a
+     famous leader&mdash;Yearly rendezvous among the mountains&mdash;
+     Stratagems and dangers of the trade&mdash;Bands of trappers&mdash;
+     Indian banditti&mdash;Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers&mdash;Traders
+     of the&mdash;Far West&mdash;Character and habits of the trapper
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr.
+      John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade at
+      the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that
+      enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and of
+      the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its
+      dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have stated,
+      likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government in
+      neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the American
+      flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate himself in
+      the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the post was
+      formally given up by the British government, though still occupied by the
+      Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty in the country has
+      been virtually lost to the United States; and it will cost both
+      governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on that just and
+      rightful footing on which they would readily have been placed had the
+      proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now state a few
+      particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader up to the
+      period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for the
+      circumstances of our narrative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr.
+      Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further
+      attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the
+      Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country. They did
+      not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat surreptitiously
+      attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and their old rivals,
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company; which was carried on at great cost and
+      sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It ended in the ruin of
+      most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and the merging of the
+      relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival association. From that
+      time, the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company enjoyed a monopoly of the Indian trade from
+      the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky Mountains, and for a considerable
+      extent north and south. They removed their emporium from Astoria to Fort
+      Vancouver, a strong post on the left bank of the Columbia River, about
+      sixty miles from its mouth; whence they furnished their interior posts,
+      and sent forth their brigades of trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United
+      States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the
+      great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra
+      incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808,
+      by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped upon
+      the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships sustained by
+      Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other intrepid
+      Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, appeared
+      for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction. The American
+      traders contented themselves with following up the head branches of the
+      Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams on the Atlantic
+      side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those great snow-crowned
+      sierras.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General
+      Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the
+      prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West.
+      In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post on
+      the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year
+      pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of
+      the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name of
+      the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by
+      others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of
+      trapping organized beyond the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and perseverance
+      of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these early expeditions,
+      and first broke their way through a wilderness where everything was
+      calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse the most dreary
+      and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes, uninhabited by
+      man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel savages. They knew
+      nothing of the country beyond the verge of their horizon, and had to
+      gather information as they wandered. They beheld volcanic plains
+      stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled up to the clouds,
+      and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing of their defiles, nor
+      how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They launched themselves in
+      frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither their swift currents would
+      carry them, or what rocks and shoals and rapids they might encounter in
+      their course. They had to be continually on the alert, too, against the
+      mountain tribes, who beset every defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or
+      attacked them in their night encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of
+      trappers that first entered into these regions, three-fifths are said to
+      have fallen by the hands of savage foes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up,
+      originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these we
+      may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William
+      Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of
+      romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various
+      modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold out
+      his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded him was
+      Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has become
+      renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of game
+      descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of Boon,
+      having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian warfare,
+      and killed in one of the contests of the &ldquo;Bloody Ground.&rdquo; We shall
+      frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to the
+      credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name of
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert
+      Campbell were prominent members.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and
+      excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once
+      more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder of
+      the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the
+      company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown, who
+      still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued
+      between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and the
+      trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great
+      tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these
+      formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory
+      enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of
+      adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers, who
+      either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the service
+      of one or other of the main companies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions, from
+      the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish settlements of
+      California, have been traversed and ransacked in every direction by bands
+      of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is scarcely a mountain pass,
+      or defile, that is not known and threaded in their restless migrations,
+      nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by the lonely trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the mountains.
+      Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that is to say,
+      partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move about from
+      place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic they wish to
+      monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they employ in
+      trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands, or &ldquo;brigades&rdquo; as
+      they are termed, of trappers in various directions, assigning to each a
+      portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground. In the months of June
+      and July, when there is an interval between the hunting seasons, a general
+      rendezvous is held, at some designated place in the mountains, where the
+      affairs of the past year are settled by the resident partners, and the
+      plans for the following year arranged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their
+      widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their year&rsquo;s
+      campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to traffic their
+      peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort hither also, to
+      sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their services for the
+      next hunting season.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from
+      its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some
+      experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the
+      resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year&rsquo;s
+      machinery in motion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are
+      anxious to discover each other&rsquo;s plans and movements, they generally
+      contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart. An
+      eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of
+      supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this
+      purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic
+      frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that
+      can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition,
+      scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the
+      greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free
+      trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able,
+      also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to get
+      the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the hunting
+      and trapping grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping
+      competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and
+      outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of
+      the Indian tribes; to cross each other&rsquo;s plans; to mislead each other as
+      to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian
+      trader is the disadvantage of his competitor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of
+      the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their most
+      profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man has
+      opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no idea. The
+      introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful hunters, but at
+      the same time, more formidable foes; some of them, incorrigibly savage and
+      warlike in their nature, have found the expeditions of the fur traders
+      grand objects of profitable adventure. To waylay and harass a band of
+      trappers with their pack-horses, when embarrassed in the rugged defiles of
+      the mountains, has become as favorite an exploit with these Indians as the
+      plunder of a caravan to the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet,
+      who were such terrors in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria,
+      still continue their predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to
+      greater system. They know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to
+      waylay them on their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons,
+      and where to hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper,
+      therefore, is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his
+      weapons in his hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system of
+      things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the trade in
+      furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the expeditions were
+      carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or boatmen were the rank
+      and file in the service of the trader, and even the hardy &ldquo;men of the
+      north,&rdquo; those great rufflers and game birds, were fain to be paddled from
+      point to point of their migrations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A totally different class has now sprung up:&mdash;&ldquo;the Mountaineers,&rdquo; the
+      traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue their
+      hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from place to
+      place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in which they are
+      engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast plains and
+      mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities, seem to make
+      them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial race than the fur
+      traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting &ldquo;men of the north.&rdquo;
+       A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially different from a man who
+      cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly, hardy, lithe, vigorous, and
+      active; extravagant in word, and thought, and deed; heedless of hardship;
+      daring of danger; prodigal of the present, and thoughtless of the future.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and
+      those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter,
+      generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well
+      sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within the reach
+      of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is comparatively
+      free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of the upper
+      wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy, self-dependent
+      and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by chance comes
+      among them on his way to and from the settlements, he is like a game-cock
+      among the common roosters of the poultry-yard. Accustomed to live in
+      tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises the comforts and is
+      impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If his meal is not ready in
+      season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest or prairie, shoots his own
+      game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast. With his horse and his rifle,
+      he is independent of the world, and spurns at all its restraints. The very
+      superintendents at the lower posts will not put him to mess with the
+      common men, the hirelings of the establishment, but treat him as something
+      superior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says Captain
+      Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril, and
+      excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the free
+      trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the
+      trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles a
+      mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his path; in
+      vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose his progress; let
+      but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he forgets all dangers
+      and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be seen with his traps on
+      his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid streams, amidst floating
+      blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be found with his traps swung on
+      his back clambering the most rugged mountains, scaling or descending the
+      most frightful precipices, searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse,
+      and never before trodden by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to
+      his comrades, and where he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the
+      mountaineer, the hardy trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly
+      sketched it, is the wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange
+      and motley populace, now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur
+      trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted with
+      the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the
+      introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their
+      enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far
+      West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      2.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure from&mdash;Fort Osage&mdash;Modes of transportation&mdash;Pack-
+     horses&mdash;Wagons&mdash;Walker and Cerre; their characters&mdash;Buoyant
+     feelings on launching upon the prairies&mdash;Wild equipments of
+     the trappers&mdash;Their gambols and antics&mdash;Difference of
+     character between the American and French trappers&mdash;Agency
+     of the Kansas&mdash;General&mdash;Clarke&mdash;White Plume, the Kansas
+     chief&mdash;Night scene in a trader&rsquo;s camp&mdash;Colloquy between&mdash;
+     White Plume and the captain&mdash;Bee-hunters&mdash;Their
+     expeditions&mdash;Their feuds with the Indians&mdash;Bargaining talent
+     of White Plume
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his
+      departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had
+      enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been in the
+      Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and trappers.
+      Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western wilderness,
+      abound with characters of the kind, ready for any expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions of
+      the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville
+      substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless
+      wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open
+      plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in every
+      direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines cut
+      through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is often
+      necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for the
+      wagons.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville
+      thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing the
+      horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also would
+      be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or being
+      frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would be more
+      easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case of attack
+      in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen, or by four
+      mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition, and
+      provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party, which
+      was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or
+      lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr.
+      J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee,
+      about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit,
+      though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on the
+      frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where he
+      went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated, he
+      engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the Pawnees;
+      then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as sheriff, trader,
+      trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe, in
+      which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size, light
+      complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was
+      considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with
+      Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats and
+      summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies distressing;
+      and before the annual assemblages of people connected with the fur trade
+      should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company and
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of rendezvous for
+      the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, a deep
+      valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain Bonneville
+      intended to shape his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy
+      captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters,
+      trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his
+      face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest
+      spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat
+      high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what then
+      must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated by a
+      residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region of
+      romance!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already
+      experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a
+      renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance and
+      equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half savage.
+      Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their garbs and
+      accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in barbaric style,
+      with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of adventurers on one of
+      these expeditions is always animated and joyous. The welkin rang with
+      their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the savages; and with
+      boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they passed the straggling
+      hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts of the frontier, they
+      would startle their inmates by Indian yells and war-whoops, or regale them
+      with grotesque feats of horsemanship, well suited to their half-savage
+      appearance. Most of these abodes were inhabited by men who had themselves
+      been in similar expeditions; they welcomed the travellers, therefore, as
+      brother trappers, treated them with a hunter&rsquo;s hospitality, and cheered
+      them with an honest God speed at parting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character and
+      quality, between the two classes of trappers, the &ldquo;American&rdquo; and &ldquo;French,&rdquo;
+       as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant to designate
+      the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the trapper of the
+      old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others of the western
+      States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter, softer, more
+      self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife, his lodge, and
+      his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes little heed of
+      landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to think for the common
+      weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed and lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service of
+      the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart of the
+      mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark; can
+      retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most
+      perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can appal
+      him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping the two
+      kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the light
+      fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what he calls the
+      &ldquo;shot-gun.&rdquo; We give these estimates on the authority of a trader of long
+      experience, and a foreigner by birth. &ldquo;I consider one American,&rdquo; said he,
+      &ldquo;equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity, aptness at resources,
+      self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In fact, no one can cope with
+      him as a stark tramper of the wilderness.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville had
+      enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting
+      qualifications he placed great reliance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation, and
+      bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The buoyant
+      and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march gradually
+      subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found the prairies
+      saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain seasons of the
+      year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank deep in the mire,
+      the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed and rider were
+      completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they reached the Kansas
+      River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide, entering the Missouri
+      from the south. Though fordable in almost every part at the end of summer
+      and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to construct a raft for the
+      transportation of the wagons and effects. All this was done in the course
+      of the following day, and by evening, the whole party arrived at the
+      agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under the superintendence of General
+      Clarke, brother of the celebrated traveller of the same name, who, with
+      Lewis, made the first expedition down the waters of the Columbia. He was
+      living like a patriarch, surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all
+      snugly housed, and provided with excellent farms. The functionary next in
+      consequence to the agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and,
+      indeed, indispensable personage in a frontier community. The Kansas
+      resemble the Osages in features, dress, and language; they raise corn and
+      hunt the buffalo, ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at
+      the time of the captain&rsquo;s visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the
+      Nebraska, or Platte River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among
+      these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything
+      minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of
+      excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy with
+      which their race is so often reproached.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The personage who most attracted the captain&rsquo;s attention at this place was
+      &ldquo;White Plume,&rdquo; the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends. White
+      Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited a large
+      stone house, built for him by order of the American government: but the
+      establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style. It might be
+      palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between the stateliness
+      of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the gallant White
+      Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see in the gala
+      equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy at Washington,
+      who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and military coat, in
+      contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging; being grand officer at
+      top, and ragged Indian at bottom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased
+      with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him a
+      day&rsquo;s journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the margin
+      of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by the
+      captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square, at
+      the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval there
+      was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men cooked,
+      ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre of the
+      square, with a guard stationed over them at night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The horses were &ldquo;side lined,&rdquo; as it is termed: that is to say, the fore
+      and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as to
+      be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for a
+      time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to the
+      restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his being
+      easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that is &ldquo;foot
+      free&rdquo; is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it were, a pivot,
+      round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm. The encampment
+      of which we are speaking presented a striking scene. The various
+      mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing, sitting, and
+      reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their weapons: while
+      the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry story was going on.
+      In the middle of the camp, before the principal lodge, sat the two
+      chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in soldier-like communion,
+      the captain delighted with the opportunity of meeting on social terms with
+      one of the red warriors of the wilderness, the unsophisticated children of
+      nature. The latter was squatted on his buffalo robe, his strong features
+      and red skin glaring in the broad light of a blazing fire, while he
+      recounted astounding tales of the bloody exploits of his tribe and himself
+      in their wars with the Pawnees; for there are no old soldiers more given
+      to long campaigning stories than Indian &ldquo;braves.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men;
+      he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders for
+      whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species of
+      hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of the
+      ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western
+      frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the
+      reader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a
+      long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living on
+      new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the
+      harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three,
+      and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and a
+      number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into the
+      wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south, without
+      any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which strictly
+      forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian tribes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the
+      rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their
+      hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich
+      flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion, are
+      migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well
+      experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has
+      passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred
+      miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee
+      go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is but
+      recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or Platte;
+      and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there about the same
+      time.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to make a
+      wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches of forest on
+      the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which they have
+      detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any other bee
+      hunter that should come upon their track. When they have marked sufficient
+      to fill all their casks, they turn their faces homeward, cut down the
+      trees as they proceed, and having loaded their wagon with honey and wax,
+      return well pleased to the settlements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the
+      white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its
+      having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their
+      lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them
+      and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden
+      with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the
+      native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut to
+      pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way they can,
+      happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound rib-roasting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made the
+      most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western part
+      of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier, and
+      whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas tribe.
+      According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were pretty
+      fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often treated
+      them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the sweets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of
+      having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity to
+      the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He
+      required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the
+      worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his
+      native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      3.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills&mdash;Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River&mdash;Scanty fare&mdash;Buffalo
+     skulls&mdash;Wagons turned into boats&mdash;Herds of buffalo&mdash;Cliffs
+     resembling castles&mdash;The chimney&mdash;Scott&rsquo;s Bluffs Story
+     connected with them&mdash;The bighorn or ahsahta&mdash;Its nature and
+     habits&mdash;Difference between that and the &ldquo;woolly sheep,&rdquo; or
+     goat of the mountains
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western
+      course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered
+      miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had
+      to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw
+      bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat; the
+      thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning, early, but
+      rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant breezes, however,
+      which sweep these vast plains render the heats endurable. Game was scanty,
+      and they had to eke out their scanty fare with wild roots and vegetables,
+      such as the Indian potato, the wild onion, and the prairie tomato, and
+      they met with quantities of &ldquo;red root,&rdquo; from which the hunters make a very
+      palatable beverage. The only human being that crossed their path was a
+      Kansas warrior, returning from some solitary expedition of bravado or
+      revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp as a trophy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route
+      took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects. The
+      vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical
+      shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have
+      their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to leave
+      flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole country may
+      originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills; but through
+      some process of nature may have sunk to its present level; these insulated
+      eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid rock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of Red
+      River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of country,
+      is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and position of
+      grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by some
+      subterranean agitation. &ldquo;The resemblance,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;which these very
+      remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious in the
+      extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the
+      pre-Adamites.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or
+      Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The
+      low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain
+      Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred yards
+      from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the bottom full
+      of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered with that
+      species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up along the course
+      of this river for several days, they were obliged, from the scarcity of
+      game, to put themselves upon short allowance, and, occasionally, to kill a
+      steer. They bore their daily labors and privations, however, with great
+      good humor, taking their tone, in all probability, from the buoyant spirit
+      of their leader. &ldquo;If the weather was inclement,&rdquo; said the captain, &ldquo;we
+      watched the clouds, and hoped for a sight of the blue sky and the merry
+      sun. If food was scanty, we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon
+      falling in with herds of buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and
+      eat.&rdquo; We doubt whether the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness
+      of his own breast, which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always
+      equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated
+      with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical
+      figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost
+      innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in
+      thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where it
+      divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these branches
+      rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the Arkansas. Up the
+      course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well aware, lay the route
+      to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the northern Mexican
+      settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its sources might lie
+      among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and foam down rugged
+      defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction was in the true
+      course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute his route to the
+      Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from quicksands and other
+      dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this neighborhood, he kept up
+      along the south fork for two days, merely seeking a safe fording place. At
+      length he encamped, caused the bodies of the wagons to be dislodged from
+      the wheels, covered with buffalo hide, and besmeared with a compound of
+      tallow and ashes; thus forming rude boats. In these, they ferried their
+      effects across the stream, which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift
+      and strong current. Three men were in each boat, to manage it; others
+      waded across pushing the barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A
+      march of nine miles took them over high rolling prairies to the north
+      fork; their eyes being regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo
+      at a distance, some careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in
+      the natural meadows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by
+      musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th, a
+      small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of singing
+      birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary of Missouri.
+      After so many days of weary travelling through a naked, monotonous and
+      silent country, it was delightful once more to hear the song of the bird,
+      and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was a beautiful sunset, and a
+      sight of the glowing rays, mantling the tree-tops and rustling branches,
+      gladdened every heart. They pitched their camp in the grove, kindled their
+      fires, partook merrily of their rude fare, and resigned themselves to the
+      sweetest sleep they had enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the
+      river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and wind
+      their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary passes
+      they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom they
+      supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara or Crow
+      Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at night, and to
+      keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged and elevated
+      regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a species larger than the
+      ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and mountainous countries. They
+      had reached also a great buffalo range; Captain Bonneville ascended a high
+      bluff, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding plains. As far as
+      his eye could reach, the country seemed absolutely blackened by
+      innumerable herds. No language, he says, could convey an adequate idea of
+      the vast living mass thus presented to his eye. He remarked that the bulls
+      and cows generally congregated in separate herds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which is
+      among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The lower
+      part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the summit
+      shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet in height,
+      from which it derives its name. The height of the whole, according to
+      Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards. It is composed of
+      indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white sandstone, and may
+      be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated
+      clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches,
+      and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to persuade
+      one&rsquo;s self that the works of art were not mingled with these fantastic
+      freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott&rsquo;s Bluffs, from a
+      melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party were descending
+      the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail barks were
+      overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being thus rendered
+      useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting and had to depend
+      upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After suffering extremely from
+      hunger, they arrived at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, a small tributary of the north
+      branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above the cliffs just mentioned.
+      Here one of the party, by the name of Scott, was taken ill; and his
+      companions came to a halt, until he should recover health and strength
+      sufficient to proceed. While they were searching round in quest of edible
+      roots, they discovered a fresh trail of white men, who had evidently but
+      recently preceded them. What was to be done? By a forced march they might
+      overtake this party, and thus be able to reach the settlements in safety.
+      Should they linger, they might all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott,
+      however, was incapable of moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward,
+      and dreaded that such a clog would prevent their coming up with the
+      advance party. They determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate.
+      Accordingly, under presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be
+      efficacious in his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the
+      trail. They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest,
+      but concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had
+      died of disease.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in
+      company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning
+      skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for the
+      remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where they had
+      abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that
+      immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and
+      picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since
+      borne his name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first
+      time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents
+      these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such
+      scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from
+      crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains,
+      under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower
+      than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice, so
+      high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems a
+      pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations,
+      doubtless from a feeling of security.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often confounded
+      with another animal, the &ldquo;woolly sheep,&rdquo; found more to the northward,
+      about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise inhabits cliffs in
+      summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter. It has white wool,
+      like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long hair; but it has short
+      legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its horns are about five
+      inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as jet, and beautifully
+      polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This animal is by no means so
+      active as the bighorn; it does not bound much, but sits a good deal upon
+      its haunches. It is not so plentiful either; rarely more than two or three
+      are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives a resemblance to the sheep; it is
+      more properly of the flesh is said to have a musty flavor; some have
+      thought the fleece might be valuable, as it is said to be as fine as that
+      of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to be procured in sufficient
+      quantities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a
+      deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep,
+      and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it more
+      sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in the Rocky
+      Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude, quite down to
+      California; generally in the highest regions capable of vegetation;
+      sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least alarm, regains
+      its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous, if not
+      impossible for the hunter to follow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      4.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     An alarm&mdash;Crow&mdash;Indians&mdash;Their appearance&mdash;Mode of approach
+     &mdash;Their vengeful errand&mdash;Their curiosity&mdash;Hostility between
+     the Crows and Blackfeet&mdash;Loving conduct of the Crows&mdash;
+     Laramie&rsquo;s Fork&mdash;First navigation of the&mdash;Nebraska&mdash;Great
+     elevation of the country&mdash;Rarity of the atmosphere&mdash;Its
+     effect on the wood-work of wagons&mdash;Black Hills&mdash;Their wild
+     and broken scenery&mdash;Indian dogs&mdash;Crow trophies&mdash;Sterile and
+     dreary country&mdash;Banks of the Sweet Water&mdash;Buffalo hunting&mdash;
+     Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best hunters
+      in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look out for
+      game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying up the
+      banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving their caps,
+      and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and
+      announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the
+      river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the most
+      roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains;
+      horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of
+      sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for action,
+      and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him in the
+      general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his
+      little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld
+      the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty
+      of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and
+      mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They came
+      prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous evolutions,
+      for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their bright colors, and
+      flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring and sparkling in the
+      morning sunshine, gave them really a striking appearance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and
+      ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct
+      hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a
+      furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left, and
+      wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling like
+      maniacs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching
+      the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the
+      pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship.
+      The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their
+      village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already been
+      five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were determined
+      not to return home until they had sated their revenge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the country
+      at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of Captain
+      Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished at the
+      long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the sight of a
+      cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them to be some
+      kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they carried back
+      to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He had, in
+      consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold the wonders
+      described to him. &ldquo;Now that we have met you,&rdquo; said he to Captain
+      Bonneville, &ldquo;and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our hearts are
+      glad.&rdquo; In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by these people
+      as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen by them before,
+      and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but the calf was the
+      peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it with intense interest
+      as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and were struck with the
+      mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect docility.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must be
+      the &ldquo;great medicine&rdquo; of the white party; an appellation given by the
+      Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded
+      as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture,
+      however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse;
+      their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they
+      declined the bargain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together,
+      and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was well pleased
+      with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the &ldquo;unsophisticated sons of
+      nature,&rdquo; who had so long been objects of his poetic speculations; and
+      indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one of the most notorious of the
+      mountains. The chief, of course, had his scalps to show and his battles to
+      recount. The Blackfoot is the hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom
+      hostility is like a cherished principle of religion; for every tribe,
+      besides its casual antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can
+      be no permanent reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole,
+      are enemies worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first
+      water. As their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they
+      often come in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to
+      keep their wits awake and their passions alive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious
+      character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that they
+      were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was friendly
+      in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their attentions, and
+      had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It was not until after
+      separation on the following morning that the captain and his men
+      ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the course of their
+      fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the pockets of their
+      white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their coats, and, above
+      all, to make free with their hunting knives.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain
+      Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47&rsquo; north. The thermometer,
+      at six o&rsquo;clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two
+      o&rsquo;clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o&rsquo;clock in the evening,
+      at seventy degrees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance,
+      printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and
+      threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, a clear and
+      beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an average
+      width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows abounding in
+      currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and clumps of trees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By an observation of Jupiter&rsquo;s satellites, with a Dolland reflecting
+      telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57&rsquo; west
+      of Greenwich.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three years
+      after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell, formerly of
+      the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte from this fork, in
+      skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been discredited, that the
+      river was navigable. About the same time, he built a fort or trading post
+      at Laramie&rsquo;s Fork, which he named Fort William, after his friend and
+      partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the Platte has become a
+      highway for the fur traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the great
+      elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the effect
+      of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons. The
+      wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually working
+      out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props to prevent
+      their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one of those great
+      steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity of the atmosphere
+      renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these regions there is a
+      fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is scanty and short, and
+      parches up in the course of the summer, so that there is none for the
+      hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a common observation that
+      &ldquo;above the forks of the Platte the grass does not burn.&rdquo; All attempts at
+      agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood of Fort William have been
+      attended with very little success. The grain and vegetables raised there
+      have been scanty in quantity and poor in quality. The great elevation of
+      these plains, and the dryness of the atmosphere, will tend to retain these
+      immense regions in a state of pristine wildness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and
+      broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their
+      journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines
+      incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the day was
+      spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up ravines,
+      forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging them with
+      ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of their horses
+      were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and stony roads. The
+      travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief storms, which would
+      come hurrying over the hills, or through the mountain defiles, rage with
+      great fury for a short time, and then pass off, leaving everything calm
+      and serene again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs,
+      prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large
+      pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail&mdash;altogether,
+      they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors would
+      keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the first
+      stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they reached
+      some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep a sharp
+      and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers were
+      fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving hangers-on
+      would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the half-picked bones,
+      the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having made a hasty meal, with
+      many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow leisurely on the trail of
+      the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax or catch them, but in vain.
+      Their quick and suspicious eyes caught the slightest sinister movement,
+      and they turned and scampered off. At length one was taken. He was
+      terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled as if expecting instant death.
+      Soothed, however, by caresses, he began after a time to gather confidence
+      and wag his tail, and at length was brought to follow close at the heels
+      of his captors, still, however, darting around furtive and suspicious
+      glances, and evincing a disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path.
+      They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne
+      scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards, to
+      appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had been
+      revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant
+      rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means
+      disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages, and
+      above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They remarked one
+      precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to protect their
+      hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had to pass, they
+      had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the Nebraska
+      or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced to the
+      margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits. One of
+      these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a range of
+      low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore traces of
+      some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto the various
+      strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the southwest, but
+      here everything appeared to have been subverted, and thrown out of place.
+      In many places there were heavy beds of white sandstone resting upon red.
+      Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags and cliffs; and sometimes
+      formed perpendicular walls and overhanging precipices. An air of sterility
+      prevailed over these savage wastes. The valleys were destitute of herbage,
+      and scantily clothed with a stunted species of wormwood, generally known
+      among traders and trappers by the name of sage. From an elevated point of
+      their march through this region, the travellers caught a beautiful view of
+      the Powder River Mountains away to the north, stretching along the very
+      verge of the horizon, and seeming, from the snow with which they were
+      mantled, to be a chain of small white clouds, connecting sky and earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even
+      sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow were
+      to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the travellers
+      were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to a
+      much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains
+      below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current.
+      The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides
+      rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks;
+      then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes
+      impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and
+      rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the
+      Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and
+      making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time
+      over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the Sweet
+      Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five feet deep,
+      flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one of the forks
+      or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now shaped their
+      course for several successive days, tending, generally, to the west. The
+      soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified. Frequently the
+      plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock, sometimes in the shape
+      of a half globe, and from three to four hundred feet high. These singular
+      masses had occasionally a very imposing, and even sublime appearance,
+      rising from the midst of a savage and lonely landscape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more sensible
+      of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more generally
+      capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics, sore lips and
+      mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons also shrank so
+      much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept from falling to
+      pieces. The country bordering upon the river was frequently gashed with
+      deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to avoid which, the travellers
+      were obliged to make wide circuits through the plains. In the course of
+      these, they came upon immense herds of buffalo, which kept scouring off in
+      the van, like a retreating army.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who
+      officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel
+      situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he had
+      suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of the camp.
+      Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his station; and
+      the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their exploits,
+      inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity of their
+      order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting opportunity
+      for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march, all prepared
+      for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung at the pommel
+      of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his shoulder. While in
+      this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in great alarm. In an
+      instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on foot. Finding they
+      were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and pulled [the] trigger.
+      His shot produced no other effect than to increase the speed of the
+      buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his heels, and
+      scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after him, hallooing
+      with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman soon disappeared
+      among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville, who was at the head
+      of the line, and had seen the transaction at a distance, detached a party
+      in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they returned, leading the
+      frightened horse; but though they had scoured the country, and looked out
+      and shouted from every height, they had seen nothing of his rider.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Captain Bonneville knew Tom&rsquo;s utter awkwardness and inexperience, and
+      the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he halted
+      and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt for him
+      in the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every
+      direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its
+      course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters
+      returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him
+      in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused
+      shouts of merriment in the camp,&mdash;but Tom for once could not join in
+      the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and
+      apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      5.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Magnificent scenery&mdash;Wind River&mdash;Mountains&mdash;Treasury of
+     waters&mdash;A stray horse&mdash;An Indian trail&mdash;Trout streams&mdash;The
+     Great Green River Valley&mdash;An alarm&mdash;A band of trappers&mdash;
+     Fontenelle, his information&mdash;Sufferings of thirst&mdash;
+     Encampment on the Seedskedee&mdash;Strategy of rival traders&mdash;
+     Fortification of the camp&mdash;The&mdash;Blackfeet&mdash;Banditti of the
+     mountains&mdash;Their character and habits
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight of
+      the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains. He
+      had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along the
+      river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent prospect
+      burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River Mountains, with
+      their bleached and snowy summits towering into the clouds. These stretched
+      far to the north-northwest, until they melted away into what appeared to
+      be faint clouds, but which the experienced eyes of the veteran hunters of
+      the party recognized for the rugged mountains of the Yellowstone; at the
+      feet of which extended the wild Crow country: a perilous, though
+      profitable region for the trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness,
+      with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This,
+      however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or
+      Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering tribe
+      of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the
+      enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous
+      scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him. We
+      can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have
+      contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great
+      fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of those
+      mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles of
+      varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of the
+      Atlantic and the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the
+      whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form,
+      as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length, and
+      from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with eternal
+      snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and
+      rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid
+      streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of the
+      Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give rise to
+      the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the West,
+      that empties its current into the Gulf of California.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters&rsquo; and trappers&rsquo; stories:
+      their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their neighborhood,
+      having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the mountains, and
+      scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It was to the west of
+      these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River,
+      that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt for the purpose of giving
+      repose to his people and his horses after their weary journeying; and of
+      collecting information as to his future course. This Green River valley,
+      and its immediate neighborhood, as we have already observed, formed the
+      main point of rendezvous, for the present year, of the rival fur
+      companies, and the motley populace, civilized and savage, connected with
+      them. Several days of rugged travel, however, yet remained for the captain
+      and his men before they should encamp in this desired resting-place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of the
+      meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little
+      distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself
+      quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of
+      the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal;
+      lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity.
+      After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party, which
+      had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The horse was
+      accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more vigilant watch
+      than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his former owners
+      should be upon the prowl.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of
+      July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets, and the
+      thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the atmosphere
+      continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the wheels were
+      incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length devised. The tire of
+      each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed round the exterior of
+      the felloes, the tire was then made red hot, replaced round the wheel, and
+      suddenly cooled with water. By this means, the whole was bound together
+      with great compactness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the feet
+      of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their peaks,
+      which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above the level
+      of the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and
+      keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most
+      southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march
+      of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running
+      to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they had
+      reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on the
+      western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken. The
+      stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be tributary
+      to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed at some
+      distance to the south.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the
+      crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in being
+      the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled provinces of
+      Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the Pacific, with
+      wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader of the Rocky
+      Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously, reached the
+      valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the mountains;
+      but had proceeded with them no further.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one side
+      by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of high
+      hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter in his
+      company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same informant
+      would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet deep, which
+      he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was convinced,
+      however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so wide a valley
+      and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an early hour, on
+      its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day to reach the
+      main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the distant range of
+      western hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making
+      directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at as
+      brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About
+      eleven o&rsquo;clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the
+      rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given;
+      they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured that
+      the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the neighborhood
+      of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some secret
+      fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on the open
+      plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations were immediately
+      made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to reconnoitre. They soon
+      came galloping back, making signals that all was well. The cloud of dust
+      was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted trappers, belonging to the
+      American Fur Company, who soon came up, leading their pack-horses. They
+      were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an experienced leader, or &ldquo;partisan,&rdquo; as a
+      chief of a party is called in the technical language of the trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from the
+      company&rsquo;s trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous, with
+      reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties beyond
+      the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with a band
+      of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen upon the trail
+      of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party, just after leaving the Nebraska; and,
+      finding that they had frightened off all the game, had been obliged to
+      push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men and horses were,
+      therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to halt; the plain
+      before them he said was destitute of grass and water, neither of which
+      would be met with short of the Green River, which was yet at a
+      considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party were all on
+      horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by nightfall: but he
+      doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s arrival there with his
+      wagons before the day following. Having imparted this information, he
+      pushed forward with all speed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit. The
+      ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued to
+      move rapidly. After a long and harassing day&rsquo;s march, without pausing for
+      a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o&rsquo;clock at night, to encamp
+      in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the following
+      morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to slake their
+      thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse grass, here and
+      there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a great part of this
+      Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the rain cannot
+      penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In some places it
+      produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the streams; but the
+      wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It was not until noon that
+      Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of
+      the West; in the meantime, the sufferings of both men and horses had been
+      excessive, and it was with almost frantic eagerness that they hurried to
+      allay their burning thirst in the limpid current of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had
+      managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up by the
+      exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were obliged to
+      pass the night upon the road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across the
+      river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance below,
+      where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant pasturage. Here
+      the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take their rest: the
+      weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in flesh and spirit; but
+      this last march across the thirsty plain had nearly finished them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the fur
+      trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with
+      Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of
+      Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them
+      four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was
+      somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had
+      calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the
+      rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his
+      competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free
+      trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to endeavor
+      to bring them to his camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that
+      both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it
+      was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his
+      camp with breastworks of logs and pickets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the bands
+      of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood. These
+      savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the
+      inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order,
+      always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the
+      tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain horses,
+      and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a family, and
+      entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils. The veteran
+      warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the consequence which
+      success gives them among their people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short, stout
+      horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis. When on
+      a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the
+      country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and ravines, and use
+      more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode of warfare is entirely
+      by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the night time. If they
+      succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury: if the
+      enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, they become wary and
+      deliberate in their movements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the
+      greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the
+      American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries
+      for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond of
+      spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready to
+      exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and
+      daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking
+      hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by Mr.
+      Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across
+      the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged constantly to
+      keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes: such
+      as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of
+      the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the Yellowstone and
+      Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further north.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent at
+      the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
+      which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who keep
+      about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and numbers
+      about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or three years
+      they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the Arapahoes of the
+      Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow country, and the Black
+      Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and
+      Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state of hostility with all these
+      tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted in the most lawless
+      and predatory style; nor do they hesitate to extend their maraudings to
+      any party of white men they meet with; following their trails; hovering
+      about their camps; waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free traders,
+      and murdering the solitary trapper. The consequences are frequent and
+      desperate fights between them and the &ldquo;mountaineers,&rdquo; in the wild defiles
+      and fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one of
+      their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter we
+      shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers, which
+      had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      6.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Sublette and his band&mdash;Robert&mdash;Campbell&mdash;Mr. Wyeth and a
+     band of &ldquo;down-easters&rdquo;&mdash;Yankee enterprise&mdash;Fitzpatrick&mdash;His
+     adventure with the Blackfeet&mdash;A rendezvous of mountaineers&mdash;
+     The battle of&mdash;Pierre&rsquo;s Hole&mdash;An Indian ambuscade&mdash;
+     Sublette&rsquo;s return
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified
+      camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party
+      of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies from St.
+      Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole. This party consisted of
+      sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of packhorses. They were
+      commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner in the company, and one
+      of the most active, intrepid, and renowned leaders in this half military
+      kind of service. He was accompanied by his associate in business, and
+      tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert Campbell, one of the pioneers of the
+      trade beyond the mountains, who had commanded trapping parties there in
+      times of the greatest peril.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell in
+      with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This was a
+      party of regular &ldquo;down-easters,&rdquo; that is to say, people of New England,
+      who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their race, were
+      now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with which they were
+      totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and was maintained and
+      commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This gentleman had
+      conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon might be
+      established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur trade. He
+      had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he supposed,
+      for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men in his
+      employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of the
+      wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the
+      continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same way
+      that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch forth on a
+      voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and his
+      men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the frontier,
+      and found that the wilderness required experience and habitudes of which
+      they were totally deficient. Not one of the party, excepting the leader,
+      had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they were without guide or
+      interpreter, and totally unacquainted with &ldquo;wood craft&rdquo; and the modes of
+      making their way among savage hordes, and subsisting themselves during
+      long marches over wild mountains and barren plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed, or
+      rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence, in
+      Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled amicably
+      together; the frontier men of Sublette&rsquo;s party gave their Yankee comrades
+      some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art and mystery of
+      dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without accident at the
+      upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the company
+      who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came down from the
+      rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole to meet them and hurry them forward. He
+      travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet Water; then
+      taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the other as a
+      pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, to make arrangements
+      against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting campaign before
+      the rival company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the
+      passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green
+      River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to a
+      halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the
+      rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and
+      setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once his
+      mistake and his peril&mdash;they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his
+      fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for the
+      mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous defiles.
+      Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone off, when
+      he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his remaining
+      horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For several
+      days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost famished,
+      having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept for
+      self-defence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller,
+      Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green River
+      valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at hand. They
+      had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which came down
+      from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band of Indians
+      burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and a discharge of
+      guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than wounding one mule,
+      and causing several horses to break loose from their pickets. The camp was
+      instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with yells of exultation,
+      carrying off several of the horses under cover of the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some of
+      Wyeth&rsquo;s band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New
+      England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette&rsquo;s men, who
+      were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued their
+      march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their flanks, and
+      arrived without further molestation at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous, was for
+      Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been received
+      concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest he should have
+      fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made the midnight attack
+      upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy, therefore, when he made his
+      appearance, conducted by two half-breed Iroquois hunters. He had lurked
+      for several days among the mountains, until almost starved; at length he
+      escaped the vigilance of his enemies in the night, and was so fortunate as
+      to meet the two Iroquois hunters, who, being on horseback, conveyed him
+      without further difficulty to the rendezvous. He arrived there so
+      emaciated that he could scarcely be recognized.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The valley called Pierre&rsquo;s Hole is about thirty miles in length and
+      fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken ridges,
+      and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the three
+      Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through the
+      valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The meadows
+      on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and
+      cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be
+      nearly impassable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the fur
+      trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments, with their
+      retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and half-breeds,
+      assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly supplies, and their
+      orders to start off in new directions. Here, also, the savage tribes
+      connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish Indians, and
+      Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and with their
+      squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There was, moreover,
+      a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant leader from
+      Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little apart from
+      the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage, amounting to
+      several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in tents and lodges
+      in the several camps.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur
+      Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened,
+      and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement
+      and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their
+      several destinations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by Milton
+      Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of proceeding
+      to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his fifteen free
+      trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver hunters and
+      salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this opportunity to
+      prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied with such
+      experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about eight miles to
+      the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the valley of Pierre&rsquo;s
+      Hole. On the following morning, just as they were raising their camp, they
+      observed a long line of people pouring down a defile of the mountains.
+      They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle and his party, whose arrival
+      had been daily expected. Wyeth, however, reconnoitred them with a
+      spy-glass, and soon perceived they were Indians. They were divided into
+      two parties, forming, in the whole, about one hundred and fifty persons,
+      men, women, and children. Some were on horseback, fantastically painted
+      and arrayed, with scarlet blankets fluttering in the wind. The greater
+      part, however, were on foot. They had perceived the trappers before they
+      were themselves discovered, and came down yelling and whooping into the
+      plain. On nearer approach, they were ascertained to be Blackfeet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the trappers of Sublette&rsquo;s brigade, a half-breed named Antoine
+      Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference.
+      He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by the
+      Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears his
+      name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose once
+      powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with the
+      Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful hostility
+      against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came to a halt.
+      One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the pipe of peace.
+      This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the Flathead were
+      predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a treacherous
+      movement.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Is your piece charged?&rdquo; said Antoine to his red companion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;It is.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Then cock it, and follow me.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in
+      friendship. Antoine grasped it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Fire!&rdquo; cried he.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the ground.
+      Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly ornamented, and
+      galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the bullets of the enemy
+      whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw themselves into the
+      edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood trees, interwoven with
+      vines. Here they began to fortify themselves; the women digging a trench,
+      and throwing up a breastwork of logs and branches, deep hid in the bosom
+      of the wood, while the warriors skirmished at the edge to keep the
+      trappers at bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up a
+      scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of &ldquo;downeasters,&rdquo; they
+      were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the
+      wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use
+      of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as a
+      skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them; then,
+      making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to remain in
+      garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself, he mingled with
+      the other leaders, determined to take his share in the conflict.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for
+      reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at
+      their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his
+      cap, and giving the alarm; &ldquo;Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper
+      part of the valley!&mdash;to arms! to arms!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one
+      turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined. As
+      fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was soon
+      alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St.
+      Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared
+      for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and arming
+      themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses and dashed
+      forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their wills in
+      soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be disposed of in
+      case of his death, and appointing the other his executor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all the
+      foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the whole valley
+      suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field of action. They
+      withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from sight in the dark
+      and tangled wood. Most of their women and children had retreated to the
+      mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and approached the swamp, firing
+      into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet had a better sight at their
+      adversaries, who were in the open field, and a half-breed was wounded in
+      the shoulder.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm
+      the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place, and
+      the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The very
+      Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as almost
+      impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to be turned
+      from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp. Campbell
+      stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous wood,
+      Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he fell,
+      Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done, he grasped
+      his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell. Sinclair,
+      the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with his brother
+      and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the two friends,
+      he pressed forward to share their dangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming up a
+      stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all overgrown
+      with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that it was
+      impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in peril had
+      to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting the
+      branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they should
+      attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by turns,
+      each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then hallooing to
+      their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered the swamp, and
+      followed a little distance in their rear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of the
+      rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as we have
+      said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and the leathern
+      covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The movements of the
+      leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried by the sharp-sighted
+      enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was putting some branches
+      aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on the spot. &ldquo;Take me to my
+      brother,&rdquo; said he to Campbell. The latter gave him in charge to some of
+      the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he
+      perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle
+      was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye.
+      While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him the
+      hole; &ldquo;Watch that place,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;and you will soon have a fair chance
+      for a shot.&rdquo; Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck him in
+      the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought was to take
+      hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and down. He
+      ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken. The next
+      moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took him in his
+      arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that struck
+      Sublette wounded another man in the head.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered
+      occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in
+      searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number of
+      Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others did
+      the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, which
+      occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian was shot
+      down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had been sped
+      from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much
+      increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were
+      completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however, making
+      no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork was kept
+      up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in bravado,
+      would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a buffalo robe
+      or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his comrades. Most
+      of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in the first part
+      of the attack.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws
+      belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This
+      however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the
+      robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure
+      would fall into their hands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other.
+      During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief
+      was heard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;So long,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the open
+      field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our women and
+      children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes, and you who
+      are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There are four hundred
+      lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be here&mdash;their arms
+      are strong&mdash;their hearts are big&mdash;they will avenge us!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole
+      interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was made
+      to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking the encampment
+      at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for hurrying to the
+      defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep watch upon the fort;
+      the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came on, the trappers drew out
+      of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of the wood. By morning, their
+      companions returned from the rendezvous with the report that all was safe.
+      As the day opened, they ventured within the swamp and approached the fort.
+      All was silent. They advanced up to it without opposition. They entered:
+      it had been abandoned in the night, and the Blackfeet had effected their
+      retreat, carrying off their wounded on litters made of branches, leaving
+      bloody traces on the herbage. The bodies of ten Indians were found within
+      the fort; among them the one shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet
+      afterward reported that they had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle.
+      Thirty-two horses were likewise found killed; among them were some of
+      those recently carried off from Sublette&rsquo;s party, in the night; which
+      showed that these were the very savages that had attacked him. They proved
+      to be an advance party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon
+      the trail of Sublette&rsquo;s party. Five white men and one halfbreed were
+      killed, and several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and
+      six wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In
+      the course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood;
+      but his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was
+      proof against powder and ball.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning after
+      the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were
+      approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of
+      noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at her
+      lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was
+      dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she
+      was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud spirit
+      kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on discovering
+      her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled body fell upon
+      the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have heard this anecdote
+      discredited by one of the leaders who had been in the battle: but the fact
+      may have taken place without his seeing it, and been concealed from him.
+      It is an instance of female devotion, even to the death, which we are well
+      disposed to believe and to record.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the free
+      trappers, and Wyeth&rsquo;s New England band, remained some days at the
+      rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an
+      attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves in
+      motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain
+      Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on his
+      return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from the
+      trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his
+      departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of
+      this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of the
+      followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and savage
+      warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization. He and six
+      others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred K. Stephens,
+      of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel Boon, set out
+      together, in advance of Sublette&rsquo;s party, thinking they would make their
+      way through the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven
+      companions were making their way through Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, a valley not far
+      from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party of
+      Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The horse of
+      the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with affright, and
+      threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up the side of the
+      hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his presence of mind,
+      and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank, until the Blackfeet
+      came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had fled on the first
+      alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing his danger, paused when
+      they got half way up the hill, turned back, dismounted, and hastened to
+      his assistance. Foy was instantly killed. Stephens was severely wounded,
+      but escaped, to die five days afterward. The survivors returned to the
+      camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings of this new disaster. That
+      hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the journey, set out on his return
+      to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As they had a number of pack-horses
+      richly laden with peltries to convoy, they chose a different route through
+      the mountains, out of the way, as they hoped, of the lurking bands of
+      Blackfeet. They succeeded in making the frontier in safety. We remember to
+      have seen them with their band, about two or three months afterward,
+      passing through a skirt of woodland in the upper part of Missouri. Their
+      long cavalcade stretched in single file for nearly half a mile. Sublette
+      still wore his arm in a sling. The mountaineers in their rude hunting
+      dresses, armed with rifles and roughly mounted, and leading their
+      pack-horses down a hill of the forest, looked like banditti returning with
+      plunder. On the top of some of the packs were perched several half-breed
+      children, perfect little imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf
+      locks. These, I was told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love
+      from their squaw spouses in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      7.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Retreat of the Blackfeet&mdash;Fontenelle&rsquo;s camp in danger&mdash;
+     Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet&mdash;Free trappers&mdash;Their
+     character, habits, dress, equipments, horses&mdash;Game fellows
+     of the mountains&mdash;Their visit to the camp&mdash;Good fellowship
+     and good cheer&mdash;A carouse&mdash;A swagger, a brawl, and a
+     reconciliation
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from
+      their wild fastness in Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, fell back into the valley of the
+      Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their
+      band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy and
+      exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives and
+      children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive enterprise
+      of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their wanderings they came
+      in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who had moved some distance up
+      Green River valley in search of the free trappers, they put up tremendous
+      war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if to attack it. Second thoughts
+      caused them to moderate their fury. They recollected the severe lesson
+      just received, and could not but remark the strength of Fontenelle&rsquo;s
+      position; which had been chosen with great judgment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of
+      which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however,
+      knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care to
+      inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might know
+      there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference ended,
+      Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen of the
+      Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic] at that time
+      two Crow Indians in the captain&rsquo;s camp, who had recently arrived there.
+      They looked with dismay at this deputation from their implacable enemies,
+      and gave the captain a terrible character of them, assuring him that the
+      best thing he could possibly do, was to put those Blackfeet deputies to
+      death on the spot. The captain, however, who had heard nothing of the
+      conflict at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, declined all compliance with this sage counsel.
+      He treated the grim warriors with his usual urbanity. They passed some
+      little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that everything was conducted with
+      military skill and vigilance; and that such an enemy was not to be easily
+      surprised, nor to be molested with impunity, and then departed, to report
+      all that they had seen to their comrades.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the band
+      of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to his camp,
+      had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August those
+      worthies made their appearance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary
+      to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur
+      companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons,
+      horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound to
+      do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as
+      hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard; and,
+      in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them, we
+      shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them by
+      Captain Bonneville. &ldquo;They come and go,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;when and where they
+      please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and
+      trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries to the
+      highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they attach
+      themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they come under
+      some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules for
+      trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such
+      general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the
+      camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they are
+      bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who commands
+      the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer seeking a
+      market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from thirty to
+      forty dollars for the whole hunt.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come to
+      these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and are
+      furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound to
+      exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without skinning,
+      they render in at the trader&rsquo;s lodge, where a stipulated price for each is
+      placed to their credit. These though generally included in the generic
+      name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin trappers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages
+      have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so
+      than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them to
+      discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to adopt
+      the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian. You
+      cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade him you
+      have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the counterfeit is
+      complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length, is carefully
+      combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over his shoulders, or
+      plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or parti-colored ribands. A
+      hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes, or of ornamented leather,
+      falls to his knee; below which, curiously fashioned legging, ornamented
+      with strings, fringes, and a profusion of hawks&rsquo; bells, reach to a costly
+      pair of moccasons of the finest Indian fabric, richly embroidered with
+      beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some other bright color, hangs from his
+      shoulders, and is girt around his waist with a red sash, in which he
+      bestows his pistols, knife, and the stem of his Indian pipe; preparations
+      either for peace or war. His gun is lavishly decorated with brass tacks
+      and vermilion, and provided with a fringed cover, occasionally of
+      buckskin, ornamented here and there with a feather. His horse, the noble
+      minister to the pride, pleasure, and profit of the mountaineer, is
+      selected for his speed and spirit, and prancing gait, and holds a place in
+      his estimation second only to himself. He shares largely of his bounty,
+      and of his pride and pomp of trapping. He is caparisoned in the most
+      dashing and fantastic style; the bridles and crupper are weightily
+      embossed with beads and cockades; and head, mane, and tail, are interwoven
+      with abundance of eagles&rsquo; plumes, which flutter in the wind. To complete
+      this grotesque equipment, the proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted
+      with vermilion, or with white clay, whichever presents the most glaring
+      contrast to his real color.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of the
+      wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly
+      characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their
+      fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and long
+      flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed blankets,
+      and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them so much the air
+      and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to persuade one&rsquo;s self
+      that they were white men, and had been brought up in civilized life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these
+      cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and
+      ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in
+      the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow
+      in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they
+      would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, and
+      swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the free
+      trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain&rsquo;s band;
+      mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard, or
+      pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the veterans
+      of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the hour, with
+      prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of the wonders he
+      had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his adventurous
+      peregrinations among the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp of
+      Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new
+      acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept their
+      word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became &ldquo;hail fellow
+      well met&rdquo; with Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men; treat after treat succeeded,
+      until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather confounded, by
+      liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free trappers were no longer
+      suffered to have all the swagger to themselves. The camp bullies and prime
+      trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and to brag, in turn, of their
+      perils and achievements. Each now tried to out-boast and out-talk the
+      other; a quarrel ensued as a matter of course, and a general fight,
+      according to frontier usage. The two factions drew out their forces for a
+      pitched battle. They fell to work and belabored each other with might and
+      main; kicks and cuffs and dry blows were as well bestowed as they were
+      well merited, until, having fought to their hearts&rsquo; content, and been
+      drubbed into a familiar acquaintance with each other&rsquo;s prowess and good
+      qualities, they ended the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could
+      have been rendered by a year&rsquo;s peaceable companionship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and
+      characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for the
+      time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to collect
+      from them information concerning the different parts of the country about
+      which they had been accustomed to range; the characters of the tribes,
+      and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He also succeeded
+      in securing the services of several to guide and aid him in his
+      peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during the ensuing
+      season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable recruits, he felt
+      in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware Indians, decoyed
+      from him by Mr Fontenelle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      8.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Plans for the winter&mdash;Salmon River&mdash;Abundance of salmon west
+     of the mountains&mdash;New arrangements&mdash;Caches&mdash;Cerre&rsquo;s
+     detachment&mdash;Movements in&mdash;Fontenelle&rsquo;s camp&mdash;Departure of
+     the&mdash;Blackfeet&mdash;Their fortunes&mdash;Wind&mdash;Mountain streams&mdash;
+     Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear&mdash;Bones of
+     murdered travellers&mdash;Visit to Pierre&rsquo;s Hole&mdash;Traces of the
+     battle&mdash;Nez&mdash;Perce&mdash;Indians&mdash;Arrival at&mdash;Salmon River
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain
+      Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green River
+      valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the depth
+      of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in the
+      neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far more
+      eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither the
+      captain resolved to bend his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia;
+      and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to the
+      northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense shoals
+      of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October. The
+      salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo on
+      the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man, that
+      come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs find
+      their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along the
+      fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of the
+      mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a
+      sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great rivers,
+      and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest tributory
+      streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to penetrate even
+      among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in the desert places
+      of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the animals of the chase,
+      and where, but for these periodical supplies, it would be impossible for
+      man to subsist.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the
+      ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run up
+      the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against impetuous
+      streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and weak, and
+      great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their backs. As the
+      season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are flung in myriads
+      on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to banquet on them.
+      Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks as to taint the
+      atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet long.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the
+      winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel
+      rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods and
+      supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present purposes,
+      or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided, therefore,
+      by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits, during the
+      night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in these deposited
+      the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All traces of the
+      caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common expedient with
+      the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no established posts and
+      magazines, they make these caches or deposits at certain points, whither
+      they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is an expedient derived from
+      the wandering tribes of Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for a long
+      scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one cavalcade,
+      and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name of Matthieu. He
+      was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to Bear River; a
+      stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where there was good
+      pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was expected he would
+      meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly migrations, with
+      whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After he had traded with
+      these people, finished his trapping, and recruited the strength of the
+      horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin Captain Bonneville,
+      who intended to fix his quarters there for the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain
+      Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of Fontenelle.
+      One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived, in all haste,
+      from the rendezvous at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, in quest of the supplies. The
+      competition between the two rival companies was just now at its height,
+      and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns of the Rocky
+      Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident partners, Fitzpatrick
+      and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company, by Vanderburgh and Dripps.
+      The latter were ignorant of the mountain regions, but trusted to make up
+      by vigilance and activity for their want of knowledge of the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of
+      competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the two
+      companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different
+      directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to get
+      first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown, were
+      effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had enabled the
+      various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start off to their
+      respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his associate,
+      Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for a prime
+      beaver country to the north-northwest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to meet
+      Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he immediately
+      furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the head of the free
+      trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed, determined to follow
+      hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of the adventures of these
+      parties among the mountains, and the disastrous effects of their
+      competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a future chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his errand,
+      struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone. Captain
+      Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green River
+      valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the Blackfeet
+      band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however, had been
+      dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties of white
+      men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this part of the
+      country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and bending their
+      course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them. Their route lay
+      through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows. In the Wind River
+      valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were encountered by a
+      powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put to rout. Forty of
+      them were killed, many of their women and children captured, and the
+      scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they were completely
+      chased out of the Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out on
+      his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three to a
+      mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal and one
+      on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and eighty to two
+      hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers&rsquo; style of loading
+      pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting the packs, which
+      were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was necessary to keep a
+      rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days&rsquo; experience, however,
+      brought them into proper training.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the right
+      by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little lakes
+      and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured forth the
+      tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing down gullies and
+      ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from inaccessible clefts and
+      rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and pellucid currents across
+      the valley, to throw themselves into the main river. So transparent were
+      these waters that the trout with which they abounded could be seen gliding
+      about as if in the air; and their pebbly beds were distinctly visible at
+      the depth of many feet. This beautiful and diaphanous quality of the Rocky
+      Mountain streams prevails for a long time after they have mingled their
+      waters and swollen into important rivers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued to
+      the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky defiles,
+      extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters was a
+      Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was Buckeye. He
+      had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping with the
+      grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in the left arm,
+      he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded bear, and attack
+      him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was willing to brave the
+      animal when in full force and fury. He had twice an opportunity of proving
+      his prowess, in the course of this mountain journey, and was each time
+      successful. His mode was to seat himself upon the ground, with his rifle
+      cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus prepared, he would await the
+      approach of the bear with perfect coolness, nor pull trigger until he was
+      close at hand. In each instance, he laid the monster dead upon the spot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought
+      Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, where poor More
+      and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The feelings of
+      the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these unfortunate young
+      men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to be decently interred.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which
+      commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole; whence he
+      could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and forests
+      of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant mountains,
+      of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a sleeping
+      ocean below.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley,
+      and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the
+      remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and
+      strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late
+      populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers&rsquo; camps and
+      Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage of
+      trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all dispersed
+      to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had relapsed into
+      its pristine solitude and silence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he
+      resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards of
+      two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses suffering
+      excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the 19th of
+      September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The
+      night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left
+      the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his
+      custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become
+      bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the following
+      morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered the earth
+      to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately encamped,
+      and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search Buckeye was
+      discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the rear, waiting
+      the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they had passed, the
+      snow having covered their trail.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but had
+      not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country in the
+      advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and crying
+      Indians! Indians!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared
+      for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great
+      numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly, making
+      signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or
+      Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation was
+      returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him. They
+      halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as important
+      with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This done, they
+      arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the van, the
+      braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and topped off
+      with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting and singing,
+      firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields. The two parties
+      encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a hunting expedition,
+      but had been almost famished on their march. They had no provisions left
+      but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white men equally in want, they
+      generously offered to share even this meager pittance, and frequently
+      repeated the offer, with an earnestness that left no doubt of their
+      sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of Captain Bonneville, and
+      produced the most cordial good will on the part of his men. For two days
+      that the parties remained in company, the most amicable intercourse
+      prevailed, and they parted the best of friends. Captain Bonneville
+      detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader, to accompany the Nez
+      Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade with them for meat for
+      the winter&rsquo;s supply. After this, he proceeded down the river, about five
+      miles below the forks, when he came to a halt on the 26th of September, to
+      establish his winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      9.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Horses turned loose&mdash;Preparations for winter quarters&mdash;
+     Hungry times&mdash;Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific
+     habits, religious ceremonies&mdash;Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+     conversations with them&mdash;Their love of gambling
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a
+      course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under
+      which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling upon
+      the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings. Indeed, so
+      exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle were no longer
+      capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary
+      fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure and
+      comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and huts
+      were built for the reception of the merchandise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty
+      men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the rest
+      were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different directions,
+      to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow should become
+      too deep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in
+      this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo
+      range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the
+      neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the
+      garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they
+      brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now and
+      then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an
+      antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with
+      roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates of
+      the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having
+      wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the 8th
+      of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez
+      Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their
+      situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set
+      they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor
+      anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of
+      certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any
+      weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor
+      fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their hard
+      fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical stoicism, they
+      at least made them acquainted with the edible properties of roots and wild
+      rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their own store. The
+      necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that Captain Bonneville
+      determined to dispatch a party to the Horse Prairie, a plain to the north
+      of his cantonment, to procure a supply of provisions. When the men were
+      about to depart, he proposed to the Nez Perces that they, or some of them,
+      should join the hunting-party. To his surprise, they promptly declined. He
+      inquired the reason for their refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as
+      starving a situation as his own people. They replied that it was a sacred
+      day with them, and the Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it
+      to hunting. They offered, however, to accompany the party if it would
+      delay its departure until the following day; but this the pinching demands
+      of hunger would not permit, and the detachment proceeded.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that
+      they were about to hunt. &ldquo;What!&rdquo; exclaimed he, &ldquo;without guns or arrows;
+      and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?&rdquo; They smiled
+      among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they
+      performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few
+      short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the blessings
+      of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed, leaving the
+      whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by this lesson of
+      faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being. &ldquo;Accustomed,&rdquo; adds
+      Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;as I had heretofore been, to find the wretched Indian
+      revelling in blood, and stained by every vice which can degrade human
+      nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which I had witnessed. Wonder
+      at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where it was least to have been
+      sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at receiving
+      such pure and wholesome instructions from creatures so far below us in the
+      arts and comforts of life.&rdquo; The simple prayers of the poor Indians were
+      not unheard. In the course of four or five days they returned, laden with
+      meat. Captain Bonneville was curious to know how they had attained such
+      success with such scanty means. They gave him to understand that they had
+      chased the buffalo at full speed, until they tired them down, when they
+      easily dispatched them with the spear, and made use of the same weapon to
+      flay the carcasses. To carry through their lessons to their Christian
+      friends, the poor savages were as charitable as they had been pious, and
+      generously shared with them the spoils of their hunting, giving them food
+      enough to last for several days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain
+      Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional feeling.
+      &ldquo;Simply to call these people religious,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;would convey but a
+      faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades their
+      whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose,
+      and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most uniform and
+      remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of saints than a horde
+      of savages.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from the
+      doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had imbibed
+      some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries and traders
+      who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of the fasts and
+      festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These
+      have become blended with their own wild rites, and present a strange
+      medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men, women, and children
+      array themselves in their best style, and assemble round a pole erected at
+      the head of the camp. Here they go through a wild fantastic ceremonial;
+      strongly resembling the religious dance of the Shaking Quakers; but from
+      its enthusiasm, much more striking and impressive. During the intervals of
+      the ceremony, the principal chiefs, who officiate as priests, instruct
+      them in their duties, and exhort them to virtue and good deeds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;There is something antique and patriarchal,&rdquo; observes Captain Bonneville,
+      &ldquo;in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there is in many of
+      their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued with religion.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by
+      this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness. He
+      exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and well-disposed
+      people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle and humanizing
+      precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them acquainted with the
+      leading points of its history; and it speaks highly for the purity and
+      benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed happiness from the task.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Many a time,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled
+      with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other,
+      until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the
+      wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No other
+      subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the attention;
+      and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory, or are so
+      pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours of intercourse
+      with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the desert.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people,
+      appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an
+      eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble
+      before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain absorbed
+      in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn of the
+      following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer. Bets
+      increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater, until in
+      the course of a single night&rsquo;s gambling, the richest chief may become the
+      poorest varlet in the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      10.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Black feet in the Horse Prairie&mdash;Search after the hunters&mdash;
+     Difficulties and dangers&mdash;A card party in the wilderness&mdash;
+     The card party interrupted&mdash;&ldquo;Old Sledge&rdquo; a losing game&mdash;
+     Visitors to the camp&mdash;Iroquois hunters&mdash;Hanging-eared
+     Indians
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived
+      at Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s encampment. They were on their way homeward, but
+      had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the
+      mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse
+      Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke of
+      a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a war
+      party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they
+      generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these
+      horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville
+      for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the
+      Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and
+      declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen from
+      that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain
+      Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that
+      direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found;
+      but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh
+      famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful of
+      food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the mountain.
+      After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but merely wounded
+      him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill and dale, with the
+      eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more lucky shot brought him
+      to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged his knife into his
+      throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking his blood: A fire was
+      instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two hunters cooked, and ate
+      again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they sank to sleep before their
+      hunting fire. On the following morning they rose early, made another
+      hearty meal, then loading themselves with buffalo meat, set out on their
+      return to the camp, to report the fruitlessness of their mission.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, after six weeks&rsquo; absence, the hunters made their appearance,
+      and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been felt
+      on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie, but, while
+      busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken Flatheads,
+      who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at hand. The
+      hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground, and
+      accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr. Cerre, and
+      the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the hunting party of
+      the Nez Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the
+      Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of Mr.
+      Cerre&rsquo;s men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived without
+      accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not far from his
+      quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord, which they
+      supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days afterward
+      Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at the
+      cantonment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty
+      hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise
+      his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his
+      encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary of
+      their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on these
+      prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves with a
+      social game of cards called &ldquo;old sledge,&rdquo; which is as popular among these
+      trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite circles of
+      the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly roused by a
+      discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on their feet, and
+      snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their horses and mules
+      already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon the camp
+      unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old sledge. The
+      Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored to urge them
+      off under a galling fire that did some execution. The mules, however,
+      confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new riders kicked up
+      their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of their horsemanship.
+      This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored to protect their
+      unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the whites; but, after a
+      scene of &ldquo;confusion worse confounded,&rdquo; horses and mules were abandoned,
+      and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes. Here they quickly
+      scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in which they prostrated
+      themselves, and while thus screened from the shots of the white men, were
+      enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows and fusees, as to
+      repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat. This adventure threw
+      a temporary stigma upon the game of &ldquo;old sledge.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow
+      from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment. They
+      were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves useful in a
+      variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate woodsmen. They
+      were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that came from Canada
+      into these mountain regions many years previously, in the employ of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. They were led by a brave chieftain, named Pierre,
+      who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and gave his name to the fated
+      valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole. This branch of the Iroquois tribe has ever since
+      remained among these mountains, at mortal enmity with the Blackfeet, and
+      have lost many of their prime hunters in their feuds with that ferocious
+      race. Some of them fell in with General Ashley, in the course of one of
+      his gallant excursions into the wilderness, and have continued ever since
+      in the employ of the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville was
+      a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These Indians
+      have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez Perces.
+      They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and possess
+      great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn, they hunt
+      the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry&rsquo;s Fork of the
+      Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River. Their winter
+      quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon roots and
+      dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company have
+      established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the Flatheads
+      bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and trinkets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings of
+      natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like that
+      of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep
+      reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of their
+      fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific
+      doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased
+      with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore, from
+      all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their policy,
+      they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare; especially
+      with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting expeditions,
+      they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles. Their conduct
+      as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can never be driven to
+      abandon their hunting grounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power and
+      efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some of
+      their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth &lsquo;scapes, like the
+      old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, are believed to wear a
+      charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings marvelous
+      anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed by their fellow
+      savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      11.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Rival trapping parties&mdash;Manoeuvring&mdash;A desperate game&mdash;
+     Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet&mdash;Deserted camp fire&mdash;A dark
+     defile&mdash;An Indian ambush&mdash;A fierce melee&mdash;Fatal
+     consequences&mdash;Fitzpatrick and Bridger&mdash;Trappers precautions
+     &mdash;Meeting with the Blackfeet&mdash;More fighting&mdash;Anecdote of a
+     young&mdash;Mexican and an Indian girl.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez Perces,
+      on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those doughty
+      rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who started off
+      for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already shown,
+      having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped to have the
+      first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and Dripps, however, the
+      two resident partners of the opposite company, by extraordinary exertions
+      were enabled soon to put themselves upon their traces, and pressed forward
+      with such speed as to overtake them just as they had reached the heart of
+      the beaver country. In fact, being ignorant of the best trapping grounds,
+      it was their object to follow on, and profit by the superior knowledge of
+      the other party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being dogged
+      by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer to divide the
+      country with them. They tried in every way to blind and baffle them; to
+      steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent; but all in vain.
+      Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for his ignorance of the
+      country; was always wary, always on the alert; discovered every movement
+      of his rivals, however secret and was not to be eluded or misled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the others
+      persisted in following them, they determined to give them an unprofitable
+      chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than share the products
+      with their rivals. They accordingly took up their line of march down the
+      course of the Missouri, keeping the main Blackfoot trail, and tramping
+      doggedly forward, without stopping to set a single trap. The others beat
+      the hoof after them for some time, but by degrees began to perceive that
+      they were on a wild-goose chase, and getting into a country perfectly
+      barren to the trapper. They now came to a halt, and be-thought themselves
+      how to make up for lost time, and improve the remainder of the season. It
+      was thought best to divide their forces and try different trapping
+      grounds. While Dripps went in one direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty
+      men, proceeded in another. The latter, in his headlong march had got into
+      the very heart of the Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been
+      unconscious of his danger. As his scouts were out one day, they came upon
+      the traces of a recent band of savages. There were the deserted fires
+      still smoking, surrounded by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It
+      was evident a party of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting
+      camp, and had retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts
+      hastened back to the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He
+      made light of the alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to
+      reconnoitre for himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they
+      had represented it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly
+      dismembered; there were the smouldering fires, still sending up their
+      wreaths of smoke; everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and
+      gave reason to believe that the savages were still lurking in the
+      neighborhood. With heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their
+      trail, to trace them to their place of concealment: It led him over
+      prairies, and through skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and
+      dangerous ravine. Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by
+      his little band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between
+      steep banks overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only
+      broken by the tramp of their own horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the sharp
+      report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their concealments,
+      yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten the horses.
+      Vanderburgh&rsquo;s horse fell, mortally wounded by the first discharge. In his
+      fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called in vain upon his men to
+      assist in extricating him. One was shot down scalped a few paces distant;
+      most of the others were severely wounded, and sought their safety in
+      flight. The savages approached to dispatch the unfortunate leader, as he
+      lay struggling beneath his horse.. He had still his rifle in his hand and
+      his pistols in his belt. The first savage that advanced received the
+      contents of the rifle in his breast, and fell dead upon the spot; but
+      before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol, a blow from a tomahawk laid him
+      prostrate, and he was dispatched by repeated wounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and
+      worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing
+      and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular
+      among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp,
+      and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The
+      party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and
+      made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains of
+      their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the
+      encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a
+      reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could
+      be found.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company,
+      fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to mislead
+      them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region infested
+      with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch for them;
+      but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be surprised at
+      night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the evening advanced,
+      the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a guard was stationed
+      round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of the leaders would
+      mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about half a mile; then
+      look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether there had been any
+      lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would reconnoitre every
+      ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush. This done, he would
+      gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the same scrutiny. Finding
+      all things safe, the horses would be turned loose to graze, but always
+      under the eye of a guard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any
+      defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always
+      kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the flanks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open field,
+      but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary distance, but
+      made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way, but likewise
+      kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing the pipe of
+      peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and they formed a
+      group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was circulated from
+      hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An instance of natural
+      affection took place at this pacific meeting. Among the free trappers in
+      the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited young Mexican named Loretto, who,
+      in the course of his wanderings, had ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl
+      from a band of Crows by whom she had been captured. He made her his wife,
+      after the Indian style, and she had followed his fortunes ever since, with
+      the most devoted affection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she
+      recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward
+      and threw herself upon her brother&rsquo;s neck, who clasped his long-lost
+      sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible with
+      the reputed stoicism of the savage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of trappers
+      and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle resting across
+      the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet stepped forward to
+      meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust Bridger cocked his
+      rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in friendship. The quick
+      ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in a twinkling he grasped
+      the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the contents were discharged
+      into the earth at his feet. His next movement was to wrest the weapon from
+      the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to the earth. He might have found
+      this no easy task had not the unfortunate leader received two arrows in
+      his back during the struggle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his band.
+      A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks, the rocks
+      and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular firing was kept
+      up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl had been hurried
+      off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She would have returned,
+      through the dangers of the fight, to her husband and her child, but was
+      prevented by her brother. The young Mexican saw her struggles and her
+      agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a generous impulse he caught up
+      the child in his arms, rushed forward, regardless of Indian shaft or
+      rifle, and placed it in safety upon her bosom. Even the savage heart of
+      the Blackfoot chief was reached by this noble deed. He pronounced Loretto
+      a madman for his temerity, but bade him depart in peace. The young Mexican
+      hesitated; he urged to have his wife restored to him, but her brother
+      interfered, and the countenance of the chief grew dark. The girl, he said,
+      belonged to his tribe-she must remain with her people. Loretto would still
+      have lingered, but his wife implored him to depart, lest his life should
+      be endangered. It was with the greatest reluctance that he returned to his
+      companions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse
+      parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We
+      cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole the
+      affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment
+      when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither
+      instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different
+      persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in
+      their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual
+      among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves
+      sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial, by any
+      hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of
+      faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white men
+      have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have, in
+      consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian bride.
+      A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young Mexican
+      settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and obtained his
+      discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin his wife and
+      child among her people; and we understand that, at the time we are writing
+      these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of late by the
+      American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts as an
+      interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      12.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A winter camp in the wilderness&mdash;Medley of trappers,
+     hunters, and Indians&mdash;Scarcity of game&mdash;New arrangements in
+     the camp&mdash;Detachments sent to a distance&mdash;Carelessness of
+     the Indians when encamped&mdash;Sickness among the Indians&mdash;
+     Excellent character of the Nez-Perces&mdash;The Captain&rsquo;s effort
+     as a pacificator&mdash;A Nez-Perce&rsquo;s argument in favor of war&mdash;
+     Robberies, by the Black feet&mdash;Long suffering of the Nez-
+     Perces&mdash;A hunter&rsquo;s Elysium among the mountains&mdash;More
+     robberies&mdash;The Captain preaches up a crusade&mdash;The effect
+     upon his hearers.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville remained
+      in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full enjoyment of
+      his wishes; leading a hunter&rsquo;s life in the heart of the wilderness, with
+      all its wild populace around him. Beside his own people, motley in
+      character and costume&mdash;creole, Kentuckian, Indian, half-breed, hired
+      trapper, and free trapper&mdash;he was surrounded by encampments of Nez
+      Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses covering the hills and
+      plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling scene. The hunting
+      parties of white men and red men, continually sallying forth and
+      returning; the groups at the various encampments, some cooking, some
+      working, some amusing themselves at different games; the neighing of
+      horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of the axe, the sharp
+      report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the frequent burst of
+      laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused from perfect
+      silence and loneliness by this transient hunters&rsquo; sojourn, realized, he
+      says, the idea of a &ldquo;populous solitude.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its influence
+      on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together. The most
+      perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says, were
+      friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous degree
+      in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were somewhat
+      importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in the way,
+      examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching every movement
+      of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great good-humor by
+      the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed, throughout all
+      his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor Indians, and his
+      conduct toward them is above all praise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves upon
+      the number of their horses, of which they possess more in proportion than
+      any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo range. Many of the
+      Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain Bonneville possess
+      from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are stout, well-built
+      ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the severest hardship and
+      fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those obtained from the whites
+      while sufficiently young to become acclimated and inured to the rough
+      service of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its
+      inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians consumed
+      the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to any distant
+      pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and deadly enemies,
+      would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast. Game, too, began to
+      grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out of the vicinity, and
+      though the Indians made a wide circuit through the mountains in the hope
+      of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment, their expedition was
+      unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party could not subsist
+      themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the winter. Captain
+      Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements. He detached fifty
+      men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and to trap about its
+      waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the month of July at
+      Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed upon as the general
+      rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of
+      free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and
+      Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass.
+      Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments and
+      set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained behind
+      for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which to deposit
+      everything not required for current use. Thus lightened of all superfluous
+      encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to rejoin his Indian
+      allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of the country, at the
+      head of a small stream. Considering themselves out of all danger in this
+      sequestered spot from their old enemies, the Blackfeet, their encampment
+      manifested the most negligent security. Their lodges were scattered in
+      every direction, and their horses covered every hill for a great distance
+      round, grazing upon the upland bunch grass which grew in great abundance,
+      and though dry, retained its nutritious properties instead of losing them
+      like other grasses in the autumn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a
+      dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care is
+      taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and objects
+      of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one foot at
+      night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain until broad
+      daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already ranging over
+      the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses to some eligible
+      spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young Indian repairs
+      occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to see that all is
+      well. So accustomed are the horses to this management, that they keep
+      together in the pasture where they have been left. As the sun sinks behind
+      the hills, they may be seen moving from all points toward the camp, where
+      they surrender themselves to be tied up for the night. Even in situations
+      of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over their camp at night,
+      intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant and well-trained dogs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which
+      Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions
+      with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at
+      nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at
+      perfect liberty, until the morning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was to
+      procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however,
+      extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty
+      that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use
+      of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for
+      their equipment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November
+      to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from
+      thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but it
+      generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades of new
+      grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December, however,
+      the thermometer fell to seven degrees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in Green
+      River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by a leader
+      of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses, to sojourn
+      about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to rejoin him at
+      his winter camp on Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his
+      appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain
+      Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he would
+      have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning him; for his
+      route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads itself out
+      like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be descried at a
+      great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded no further than
+      the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were lame; but it was
+      evident they had feared to venture, with so small a force, into these
+      exposed and dangerous regions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now appeared
+      among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an illness of three
+      or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician, prescribing profuse
+      sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with success, if the
+      patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In extraordinary
+      cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own doctors or
+      conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but with little
+      benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in graves, after
+      the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the direction of the
+      head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this malady made such
+      ravages among the natives, not a single white man had the slightest
+      symptom of it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and Flathead
+      Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable and
+      inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them, and
+      conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly feud
+      between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably the
+      sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and urged that
+      they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific conference,
+      offering to send two of his men to the enemy&rsquo;s camp with pipe, tobacco and
+      flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two
+      days&rsquo; duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long
+      talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length
+      they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain&rsquo;s proposition, and
+      upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;War,&rdquo; said the chiefs, &ldquo;is a bloody business, and full of evil; but it
+      keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the young
+      men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we see a
+      trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we know it
+      is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds no alarm;
+      the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men are sleek
+      and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and their little
+      babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a lie, and his
+      tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he comes to us as a
+      brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees us weak, and off our
+      guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such peace; let there be
+      war!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since
+      the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in a state
+      of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted vigilance
+      which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He represented to
+      them the impossibility that two such considerable clans could move about
+      the country without leaving trails by which they might be traced. Besides,
+      among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces, who had been taken
+      prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors, and trained up and
+      imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had lost all sympathies
+      with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead the enemy to their
+      secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep upon the alert, and
+      never to remit their vigilance while within the range of so crafty and
+      cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon his easy and simple-minded
+      hearers. A careless indifference reigned throughout their encampments, and
+      their horses were permitted to range the hills at night in perfect
+      freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own horses brought in at night, and
+      properly picketed and guarded. The evil he apprehended soon took place. In
+      a single night a swoop was made through the neighboring pastures by the
+      Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the finest horses carried off. A whip and a
+      rope were left in a conspicuous situation by the robbers, as a taunt to
+      the simpletons they had unhorsed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire through
+      the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses remained
+      safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an outbreak of
+      warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit of the marauders;
+      but no such thing&mdash;they contented themselves with searching
+      diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as had escaped the
+      hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to their loss with
+      the most exemplary quiescence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit
+      to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit
+      the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance. To
+      these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of begging
+      and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was
+      necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten
+      ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian
+      friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their
+      cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united
+      force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were
+      infested by bands of Blackfeet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented as
+      a perfect hunter&rsquo;s elysium. It was on the right branch, or head stream of
+      the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there was no danger
+      from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter. Here, they
+      said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be seen trooping
+      upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it, also, herds of
+      buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger. Thither they proposed
+      to move their camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the
+      Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land.
+      Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved
+      forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the
+      late malady.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered a
+      deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much
+      valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three
+      days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of his
+      free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible, before
+      the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened away by
+      the various Indian hunting parties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the
+      Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be upon
+      their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent loss,
+      were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some secluded
+      spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any guard upon
+      them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one were carried
+      off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the first, and no effort
+      was made either to recover the horses, or to take vengeance on the
+      thieves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their
+      remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and
+      fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that
+      this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and
+      persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should,
+      therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night
+      over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from
+      their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was
+      over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but
+      the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be
+      roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band
+      that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such
+      pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being now
+      picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated in the
+      early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here they went
+      about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at home, quietly
+      cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges of their
+      sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than the rest,
+      approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were gambling with the
+      most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time, muffled up in his
+      robe, peering over the shoulders of the players, watching the changes of
+      their countenances and the fluctuations of the game. So completely
+      engrossed were they, that the presence of this muffled eaves-dropper was
+      unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he retired undiscovered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off, the
+      Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently round
+      the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty, took their
+      route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged from the camp
+      they were silently taken possession of, until, having secured about
+      thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered off. The clatter
+      of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They gave the alarm, which
+      soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still all was quiescent; no
+      marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds and dashing off in pursuit,
+      no talk of retribution for their repeated outrages. The patience of
+      Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He had played the part of a
+      pacificator without success; he now altered his tone, and resolved, if
+      possible, to rouse their war spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven
+      policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures that
+      would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if not
+      inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party
+      should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow
+      them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and not
+      to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he
+      recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to
+      the extent of the losses sustained. &ldquo;Unless you rouse yourselves from your
+      apathy,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will cease
+      to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws and
+      children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their warriors
+      reserve themselves for nobler antagonists.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the
+      hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was
+      bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given
+      them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true,
+      but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez Perces,
+      without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose men, who were
+      not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an increased
+      watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind. He
+      disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other chiefs
+      concurred in his opinion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville again took up the point. &ldquo;It is true,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;the
+      Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has also
+      given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something speedily
+      to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say farewell. As yet I
+      have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions which you have slighted;
+      but my property is too unsafe here; my turn will come next; I and my
+      people will share the contempt you are bringing upon yourselves, and will
+      be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings, who may at any time be
+      plundered with impunity.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of the
+      Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in pursuit
+      of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account of the
+      Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came lagging
+      back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down horses,
+      which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient speed. This
+      effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the wounded pride of
+      the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual state of passive
+      indifference.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      13.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the spirit
+      of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp to whom
+      they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado, named
+      Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of the same
+      tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted into the
+      tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race, and loathed the
+      peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The hunting of the deer,
+      the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of their ambition, was too
+      tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature. His heart burned for the
+      foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper, and all the haps and hazards
+      of roving and predatory warfare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly prowls
+      and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and a flutter,
+      like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping and screaming
+      in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain Bonneville to rouse the
+      war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them to retaliation, was ardently
+      seconded by Kosato. For several days he was incessantly devising schemes
+      of vengeance, and endeavoring to set on foot an expedition that should
+      carry dismay and desolation into the Blackfeet town. All his art was
+      exerted to touch upon those springs of human action with which he was most
+      familiar. He drew the listening savages round him by his nervous
+      eloquence; taunted them with recitals of past wrongs and insults; drew
+      glowing pictures of triumphs and trophies within their reach; recounted
+      tales of daring and romantic enterprise, of secret marchings, covert
+      lurkings, midnight surprisals, sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings;
+      together with the triumphant return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the
+      victors. These wild tales were intermingled with the beating of the drum,
+      the yell, the war-whoop and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor.
+      All, however, were lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a
+      Nez Perce was to be roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In
+      the bitterness of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap
+      which had severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to
+      take refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain
+      Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted his
+      tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility. Kosato
+      told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep, strong
+      passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;You see my wife,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;she is good; she is beautiful&mdash;I love
+      her. Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of my
+      chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked together;
+      we laughed together; we were always seeking each other&rsquo;s society; but we
+      were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous, and commanded her to
+      speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward her; his jealousy grew
+      more furious. He beat her without cause and without mercy; and threatened
+      to kill her outright if she even looked at me. Do you want traces of his
+      fury? Look at that scar! His rage against me was no less persecuting. War
+      parties of the Crows were hovering round us; our young men had seen their
+      trail. All hearts were roused for action; my horses were before my lodge.
+      Suddenly the chief came, took them to his own pickets, and called them his
+      own. What could I do? he was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was
+      burning. I joined no longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast.
+      What had I to do there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself,
+      and thought of nothing but these wrongs and outrages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where
+      the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing
+      among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a time
+      over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I loved had
+      endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and my teeth
+      were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief walking
+      among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk&rsquo;s; my blood
+      boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an instant I
+      was on my feet; my hand was on my knife&mdash;I flew rather than ran&mdash;before
+      he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him dead at my
+      feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over the place;
+      then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and urged her to
+      fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded her of the wrongs
+      I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had endured from the
+      deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I again urged her to
+      fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My heart was heavy, but
+      my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. &lsquo;&rsquo;Tis well,&rsquo; said I; &lsquo;Kosato will go
+      alone to the desert. None will be with him but the wild beasts of the
+      desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his trail. They may come upon
+      him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but you will be safe. Kosato
+      will go alone.&rsquo;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. &lsquo;No,&rsquo;
+      she cried, &lsquo;Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go&mdash;he
+      shall never part from me.&rsquo;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and stealing
+      quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we encountered.
+      Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They received us with
+      welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They are good and kind;
+      they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of women.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville. It
+      is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements from
+      tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and heroines
+      of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and lasting
+      feuds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      14.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The party enters the mountain gorge&mdash;A wild fastness among
+     hills&mdash;Mountain mutton&mdash;Peace and plenty&mdash;The amorous
+     trapper-A piebald wedding&mdash;A free trapper&rsquo;s wife&mdash;Her gala
+     equipments&mdash;Christmas in the wilderness.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians
+      raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork of
+      Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so
+      temptingly described by the Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand or
+      coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive
+      limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter
+      cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow
+      breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding
+      heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills
+      afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of the
+      mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so narrow,
+      rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid retreat, and
+      to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore, refrained from
+      venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better chance, when they
+      should once more emerge into the open country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the
+      advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large flocks
+      of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be seen bounding
+      among the precipices. These simple animals were easily circumvented and
+      destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill as many as they
+      please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the flesh of those which
+      were young and fat was extolled as superior to the finest mutton.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm. Past
+      ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the story,
+      the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away, and
+      plenty and security reigned throughout the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony, in
+      civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness. Filled
+      with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers began to
+      repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the force of that
+      great law of nature, &ldquo;it is not meet for man to live alone.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the
+      Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his bosom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I want,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a
+      young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and
+      finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share my
+      lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of my
+      lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness.&rdquo;
+       Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and
+      procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the search.
+      At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and informed
+      him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of the afternoon.
+      He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached, leading the bride,
+      a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian finery. Her father,
+      mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by the score, all followed
+      on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and important relative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper
+      solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the
+      great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs,
+      then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the bride,
+      from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth of the
+      whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most profound
+      and becoming silence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn ceremonial,
+      the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable length the duties
+      of a wife which, among Indians, are little less onerous than those of the
+      pack-horse; this done, he turned to her friends and congratulated them
+      upon the great alliance she had made. They showed a due sense of their
+      good fortune, especially when the nuptial presents came to be distributed
+      among the chiefs and relatives, amounting to about one hundred and eighty
+      dollars. The company soon retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed
+      that he had no green girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once
+      assumed the style and dignity of a trapper&rsquo;s wife: taking possession of
+      the lodge as her undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her
+      own taste and habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy
+      terms with the trapper as if they had been man and wife for years.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as
+      furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion
+      picture, his description of a free trapper&rsquo;s wife, that the reader may
+      have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in question
+      had invoked to solace him in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse;
+      but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony
+      occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of
+      ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still more
+      fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her
+      notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the
+      purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the
+      utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to be
+      equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw? Perish
+      the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse for her
+      own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as is sometimes
+      assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his squaw and her
+      pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the most beautiful animal
+      she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his decoration: headstall,
+      breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly embroidered with beads, and
+      hung with thimbles, hawks&rsquo; bells, and bunches of ribbons. From each side
+      of the saddle hangs an esquimoot, a sort of pocket, in which she bestows
+      the residue of her trinkets and nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the
+      decoration of her horse or herself. Over this she folds, with great care,
+      a drapery of scarlet and bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the
+      caparison of her steed complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair,
+      esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited, and
+      made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her riding hat is
+      stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned somewhat after
+      that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes gray cloth, but always
+      of the finest texture that can be procured. Her leggings and moccasins are
+      of the most beautiful and expensive workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the
+      foot and ankle, which with the Indian woman are generally well formed and
+      delicate. Then as to jewelry: in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings,
+      necklaces, and other female glories, nothing within reach of the trapper&rsquo;s
+      means is omitted that can tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the
+      lady&rsquo;s high estate. To finish the whole, she selects from among her
+      blankets of various dyes one of some glowing color, and throwing it over
+      her shoulders with a native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay,
+      prancing steed, and is ready to follow her mountaineer &lsquo;to the last gasp
+      with love and loyalty.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the general picture of the free trapper&rsquo;s wife, given by Captain
+      Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question does
+      not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her
+      connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp and
+      circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that wherever
+      there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest rivalry
+      exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands&rsquo; purses.
+      Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by endeavors to
+      eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies and
+      heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of nature
+      are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and fashion
+      in the luxurious abodes of civilized life.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom lights
+      up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard upon the
+      wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends, Captain
+      Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed to suffer
+      the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good cheer, and
+      were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to &ldquo;light up the yule
+      clog,&rdquo; and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and rejoicings.
+      In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the lodge of the
+      Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted him with a
+      feude joie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in
+      which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited
+      the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was
+      gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief!
+      There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet
+      was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed
+      for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up
+      abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter
+      roots which the Indians use as condiments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in
+      Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity.
+      After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and
+      Indians closed the Christmas festivities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      15.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A hunt after hunters&mdash;Hungry times&mdash;A voracious repast&mdash;
+     Wintry weather&mdash;Godin&rsquo;s River&mdash;Splendid winter scene on the
+     great&mdash;Lava Plain of Snake River&mdash;Severe travelling and
+     tramping in the snow&mdash;Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian
+     horseman&mdash;Encampment on Snake River&mdash;Banneck Indians&mdash;The
+     horse chief&mdash;His charmed life.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time, caused
+      great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding there was
+      no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage of scouting
+      parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set out himself on the
+      search, and to keep on until he should ascertain something of the object
+      of his solicitude.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by thirteen
+      stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for dangerous
+      enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the head of the
+      mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As they confidently
+      expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other predatory horde, they
+      moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant watch in their
+      encampments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River,
+      and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day&rsquo;s defile. It was severe
+      and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter blasts of
+      wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game was scarce,
+      so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the want of
+      pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor of the
+      horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two of
+      the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping back in
+      great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of savages,
+      evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and nothing had saved
+      them from being entrapped but the speed of their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored
+      to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment, and
+      its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven in and
+      picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of trees and
+      the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier was
+      maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away
+      without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to
+      discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night; not
+      a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel with
+      which the plain was covered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of
+      surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the foot
+      of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the next day
+      that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the plain, among
+      rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half without a mouthful
+      of food, they took especial care that these animals should not escape
+      them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced cautiously with their
+      rifles into the rough ground, four of the best mounted horsemen took their
+      stations in the plain, to run the bulls down should they only be maimed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The half-famished
+      horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen ground, but succeeded
+      in driving them on the ice, where they slipped and fell, and were easily
+      dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with beef for present and future
+      supply, and then returned and encamped at the last nights&rsquo;s fire. Here
+      they passed the remainder of the day, cooking and eating with a voracity
+      proportioned to previous starvation, forgetting in the hearty revel of the
+      moment the certain dangers with which they were environed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about
+      their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships
+      they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard,
+      taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the
+      lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the
+      stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye could
+      reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently
+      deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the
+      icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through want
+      of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible famine
+      like that they had already experienced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride; and,
+      having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back until it
+      was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated the
+      difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have flinched
+      from the undertaking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the
+      course of a stream called John Day&rsquo;s Creek. The cold was so intense that
+      they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should
+      freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough
+      even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high
+      mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the
+      cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches in
+      depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat
+      their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day&rsquo;s
+      journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by
+      the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps
+      of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small
+      branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down
+      John Day&rsquo;s Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped upon
+      the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat down and
+      clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter in
+      the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet. Many of
+      the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after scenes of
+      violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It was an act
+      of filial vengeance on the part of Godin&rsquo;s son Antoine that, as the reader
+      may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Godin&rsquo;s River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon the
+      plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated hills
+      that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of Snake River,
+      one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains. Could they have
+      experienced a respite from their sufferings and anxieties, the immense
+      landscape spread out before them was calculated to inspire admiration.
+      Winter has its beauties and glories as well as summer; and Captain
+      Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the
+      lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever
+      the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth from
+      among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock and
+      frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall pines
+      seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with minute
+      icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy trees
+      conjured up by the caliph&rsquo;s story-teller to adorn his vale of diamonds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were in
+      no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they
+      stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight in
+      more genial situations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so that
+      it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here the
+      horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for once
+      they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that, in the
+      morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered round and
+      mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their
+      half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce
+      blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat
+      the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed next
+      to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts, when,
+      fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party. Into this
+      they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty. Shortly
+      afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and was
+      instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and
+      crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after
+      which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men
+      reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing fire
+      gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more
+      facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the
+      mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the day
+      they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before them on
+      the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better mounted on a
+      fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring them with
+      evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers, their leggings,
+      blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped off with feathers,
+      even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed complexions, gave them the
+      look of Indians rather than white men, and made him mistake them for a war
+      party of some hostile tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a
+      parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing
+      prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a
+      breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for
+      defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to be
+      approached within speaking distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at no
+      great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that he was
+      conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his reserve
+      and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence that there
+      were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood. This was
+      cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one of them the
+      long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore, with renovated
+      spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there fixed his
+      encampment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made
+      about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men. An
+      encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river, in
+      which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu&rsquo;s men,
+      from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there in the
+      course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and self-gratulation
+      to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his dreary and
+      doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time in this
+      encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give needful
+      repose to men and horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering grounds
+      in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound its devious way
+      between low banks through the great plain of the Three Butes; and was
+      bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with islands which,
+      like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves of cotton-wood,
+      thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and abundance of green
+      rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent that no single band of
+      Indians could drive the buffalo out of them; nor was the snow of
+      sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience. Indeed, during the
+      sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood, which was in the heart
+      of winter, he found the weather, with the exception of a few cold and
+      stormy days, generally mild and pleasant, freezing a little at night but
+      invariably thawing with the morning&rsquo;s sun-resembling the spring weather in
+      the middle parts of the United States.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky
+      Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west of
+      the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and
+      Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white
+      robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into the
+      plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in quest of
+      food; where they are easily slain in great numbers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to
+      which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty band
+      of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it unwise for
+      those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an overpowering
+      force.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering
+      about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors
+      and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles
+      where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising in
+      warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet
+      towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories and
+      house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the rest
+      with bows and arrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River
+      and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax
+      fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh of
+      deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and are
+      met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving in
+      exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon the
+      tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the rise
+      of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their horses,
+      although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent stock from
+      being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but two years
+      old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses, also, than
+      most of these migratory tribes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these
+      Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The Horse.
+      This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be
+      invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been in
+      repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had shown
+      great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of the great
+      men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of trappers
+      passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had been sworn by
+      the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself the friend of
+      white men and, having great influence and authority among his people, he
+      compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to conduct themselves
+      amicably whenever they came in contact with the traders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the Blackfeet
+      upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His fall in
+      nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for they
+      declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of horn
+      which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no doubt,
+      of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with
+      sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory
+      propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become
+      troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of
+      traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any
+      small party that might fall within their reach.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      16.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Misadventures of Matthieu and his party&mdash;Return to the
+     caches at Salmon River&mdash;Battle between Nez Perces and Black
+     feet&mdash;Heroism of a Nez Perce woman&mdash;Enrolled among the
+     braves.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived in
+      camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain
+      Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward, keeping
+      to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky chain. Here
+      he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses, and soon
+      discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the Shoshonie
+      bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much frequented by
+      trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to rejoin Captain
+      Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of an
+      Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped
+      during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in snow
+      and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with nine
+      horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear River,
+      where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was
+      discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced a
+      lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long as
+      their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained the wary
+      savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly encamped, in
+      a situation where they might be approached with secrecy, the enemy crept
+      stealthily along under cover of the river bank, preparing to burst
+      suddenly upon their prey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they were
+      discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently gave the
+      alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and prepared to
+      retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named Jennings,
+      doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted his horse
+      wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to mount, but in
+      vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of firearms by the
+      savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his nerves that he was
+      unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing his peril and
+      confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect him. A shot from
+      a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he called upon the others
+      not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross, after fighting
+      desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining two vaulted into
+      their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight, being pursued for
+      nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu&rsquo;s camp, where their
+      story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the hunters could not be
+      prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest of provisions. They
+      remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp; now and then killing
+      an old or disabled horse for food, while the elk and the mountain sheep
+      roamed unmolested among the surrounding mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain
+      Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious
+      encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to
+      traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state of
+      their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night, the
+      position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night watches.
+      The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given to hair-brained
+      assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe well prepared and on the
+      alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a protection against him as
+      courage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet;
+      until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the Bannecks,
+      a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having belonged to one
+      of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied having taken these
+      spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the outrage had been
+      perpetrated by a Blackfoot band.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the
+      arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered
+      strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez
+      Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might take
+      thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly, leaving
+      sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February with
+      sixteen others on his journey to the caches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he
+      encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he was
+      again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River plain, where
+      it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently incrusted to
+      bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the crust, and
+      plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by the ice that
+      it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards, and put a
+      different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies were swept by
+      a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night, they had to task
+      their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from freezing. In the first
+      place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling it up in ramparts to
+      windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath these they spread
+      buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves in full dress, with
+      caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves with numerous
+      blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often severely pinched with
+      the cold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This
+      stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the Malade
+      River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about twenty
+      yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives its name,
+      and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about forty miles,
+      it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to come
+      upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where he
+      remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and dry a
+      supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was moderate
+      and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height. There was
+      abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful in clayey and
+      gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its name from a
+      partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses in the winter,
+      but they reject it the moment the young grass affords sufficient
+      pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed their
+      march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they had to
+      make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the wind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part of
+      the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were sent out to
+      reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a hunting party
+      of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with meat. Captain
+      Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them to proceed with
+      his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he proposed also to
+      invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere in this
+      neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that friendly tribe
+      who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had likewise been out
+      to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted and harassed by their
+      old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had contrived to carry off many
+      of their horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges
+      separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their
+      horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot
+      banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and
+      determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping ground
+      of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which they hid
+      themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some straggler who
+      might guide them to the present &ldquo;whereabout&rdquo; of their intended victims. As
+      fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot renegade, was the first to
+      pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought bride. He was on his way from
+      the main body of hunters to the little band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet
+      knew and marked him as he passed; he was within bowshot of their
+      ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for his blood, they forbore to
+      launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment that he might lead them to
+      their prey. Secretly following his trail, they discovered the lodges of
+      the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed them with shouts and yellings.
+      The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men, and but nine were armed with
+      fusees. They showed themselves, however, as brave and skilful in war as
+      they had been mild and long-suffering in peace. Their first care was to
+      dig holes inside of their lodges; thus ensconced they fought desperately,
+      laying several of the enemy dead upon the ground; while they, though Some
+      of them were wounded, lost not a single warrior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her
+      warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows, and
+      bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the safety
+      of the whole party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind
+      the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert. A
+      Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before him as
+      he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the tree behind
+      which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless interest;
+      whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot. The Nez Perce
+      put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he Sprang upon his
+      feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the back of his
+      antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of the horses,
+      several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez Perces,
+      ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves to the
+      last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party was a
+      renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no vindictive
+      rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now he had got the
+      booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He held a long parley,
+      therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off his warriors, taking
+      with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward, that the bullets of the
+      Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the course of the battle, so that
+      they were obliged to make use of stones as substitute.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather
+      than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the
+      head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body
+      remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the
+      horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors
+      paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with them
+      to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and they
+      passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving way to
+      passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She was not
+      mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck him, had
+      stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful wife he
+      gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and hatred of
+      his tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was elevated
+      by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other honorable
+      distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in the war dances
+      of the braves!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      17.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Opening of the caches&mdash;Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss
+     Salmon River Mountains&mdash;Superstition of an Indian trapper&mdash;
+     Godin&rsquo;s River&mdash;Preparations for trapping&mdash;An alarm&mdash;An
+     interruption&mdash;A rival band&mdash;Phenomena of Snake River Plain
+     Vast clefts and chasms&mdash;Ingulfed streams&mdash;Sublime scenery&mdash;A
+     grand buffalo hunt.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having secretly
+      opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to equip the free
+      trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with the Indians, after
+      which he closed them again. The free trappers, being newly rigged out and
+      supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly about the camp. To
+      compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give a cheerful spur to
+      further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the men what, in frontier
+      phrase, is termed &ldquo;a regular blow-out.&rdquo; It was a day of uncouth gambols
+      and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined in the sports and games,
+      and all was mirth and good-fellowship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations
+      to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his main
+      trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among the
+      great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding course
+      falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain dispatched
+      Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and purchase
+      horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a small stock of
+      goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the spring, for such
+      peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches on Salmon River as
+      the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin him on the 15th of June
+      following.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men
+      composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with
+      eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River, as
+      it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled very
+      slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were so weak
+      that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage, however, was
+      now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass, which in some
+      places had attained such height as to wave in the wind. The native flocks
+      of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are called by the trappers,
+      were continually to be seen upon the hills between which they passed, and
+      a good supply of mutton was provided by the hunters, as they were
+      advancing toward a region of scarcity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark an
+      instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail
+      among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to the
+      sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the habit
+      of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of &ldquo;beaver
+      lodges,&rdquo; and occasionally set their traps with some success. One of them,
+      however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was invariably
+      unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad luck, he at
+      length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his person of
+      which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach. He immediately
+      set about a thorough purification. Making a rude sweating-house on the
+      banks of the river, he would shut himself up until in a reeking
+      perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge into the river. A
+      number of these sweatings and plungings having, as he supposed, rendered
+      his person perfectly &ldquo;inodorous,&rdquo; he resumed his trapping with renovated
+      hope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin&rsquo;s River, where they
+      found the swamp full of &ldquo;musk-rat houses.&rdquo; Here, therefore, Captain
+      Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular
+      attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he
+      promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat
+      they should take. All now set to work for the next day&rsquo;s sport. The utmost
+      animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything looked
+      auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats in the
+      swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find when they
+      should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver country all to
+      themselves, where they might trap at their leisure without molestation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp,
+      shouting, or rather yelling, &ldquo;A trail! a trail!&mdash;lodge poles! lodge
+      poles!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      These were words full of meaning to a trapper&rsquo;s ear. They intimated that
+      there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party, as
+      they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told his
+      story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by the
+      dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too, had
+      just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the hunters
+      had already been on the range.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat
+      trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the trail.
+      Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed the unknown
+      party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival band of
+      trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that too by a
+      party already in the advance, who were driving the game before them.
+      Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions to which a
+      trapper&rsquo;s life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an uninterrupted hunt
+      was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom and disappointment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the rival
+      party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he turned his
+      back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed on at &ldquo;long
+      camps&rdquo;, which in trapper&rsquo;s language is equivalent to long stages. On the
+      6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on the trail like
+      hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of Godin&rsquo;s defile.
+      Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two prime trappers, all
+      well appointed, with excellent horses in capital condition led by Milton
+      Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie, and in full march for the
+      Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news. The Malade River was the
+      only trapping ground within reach; but to have to compete there with
+      veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the mountains, and admirably
+      mounted, while they were so poorly provided with horses and trappers, and
+      had but one man in their party acquainted with the country-it was out of
+      the question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep
+      among the mountains of Godin&rsquo;s River and blocked up the usual pass to the
+      Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+      horses should get once more into good condition in their present ample
+      pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but to
+      keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any
+      possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie
+      endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay so
+      deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain&rsquo;s horses
+      were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which had been
+      worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was increasing
+      his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his favor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty of
+      getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the
+      intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that,
+      apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and
+      sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of these
+      mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges resembling
+      the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and
+      dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth. Captain
+      Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but without any
+      satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them reverberated against
+      the sides for apparently a very great depth, and, by its sound, indicated
+      the same kind of substance with the surface, as long as the strokes could
+      be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious in avoiding danger, shrinks
+      back in alarm from the least of these chasms, pricking up his ears,
+      snorting and pawing, until permitted to turn away.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it is
+      sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one of
+      these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin&rsquo;s
+      River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this plain;
+      some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding, no doubt,
+      subterranean outlets.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over
+      precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other
+      forty feet in height.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in
+      diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste;
+      where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but
+      lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s
+      opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion of
+      nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely, and
+      dominate this wide sea of lava&mdash;one of the most striking features of
+      a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple
+      grandeur.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this
+      sublime but almost unknown region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers broke
+      up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest end of the
+      mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various points of the
+      mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava plain, stretching
+      away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye could reach. On the
+      evening of the 26th they reached the plain west of the mountain, watered
+      by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams, which comprised the
+      contemplated trapping-ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain
+      Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West, presenting
+      the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of bright running
+      streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which
+      lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the
+      rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap
+      each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped about
+      various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set forward early
+      in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On the way, he treated
+      his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re ported numerous herds
+      in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was an immediate halt; the
+      fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the party advanced to the
+      summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great plain below; absolutely
+      swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now appointed the place where he
+      would encamp; and toward which the hunters were to drive the game. He
+      cautioned the latter to advance slowly, reserving the strength and speed
+      of the horses until within a moderate distance of the herds. Twenty-two
+      horsemen descended cautiously into the plain, conformably to these
+      directions. &ldquo;It was a beautiful sight,&rdquo; says the captain, &ldquo;to see the
+      runners, as they are called, advancing in column, at a slow trot, until
+      within two hundred and fifty yards of the outskirts of the herd, then
+      dashing on at full speed until lost in the immense multitude of buffaloes
+      scouring the plain in every direction.&rdquo; All was now tumult and wild
+      confusion. In the meantime Captain Bonneville and the residue of the party
+      moved on to the appointed camping ground; thither the most expert runners
+      succeeded in driving numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the
+      camp, and the flesh transported thither without difficulty. In a little
+      while the whole camp looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses
+      were skilfully cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying
+      and jerking beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence.
+      On the 15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain
+      Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all in good
+      health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies of various
+      kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae distributed
+      throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality this merry
+      meeting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      18.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Meeting with Hodgkiss&mdash;Misfortunes of the Nez Perces&mdash;
+     Schemes of Kosato, the renegado&mdash;His foray into the Horse
+     Prairie&mdash;Invasion of Black feet&mdash;Blue John and his forlorn
+     hope&mdash;Their generous enterprise&mdash;Their fate&mdash;Consternation
+     and despair of the village&mdash;Solemn obsequies&mdash;Attempt at
+     Indian trade&mdash;Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company&rsquo;s monopoly&mdash;Arrangements
+     for autumn&mdash;Breaking up of an encampment.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain
+      Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the
+      secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly
+      into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had
+      remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and
+      learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently
+      befallen that ill-fated race.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade
+      Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his
+      strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now
+      resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon their old
+      enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and robberies they
+      had recently experienced, and assuring them that such would continue to be
+      their lot until they proved themselves men by some signal retaliation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect;
+      and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the
+      Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and
+      commit all kinds of depredations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he
+      came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate their
+      force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely seconded
+      by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody; at length,
+      as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held a long
+      parley, or rather a war of words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;What need,&rdquo; said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, &ldquo;have the Nez Perces to
+      leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have danger
+      enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your villages;
+      you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have hitherto
+      made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A great force
+      is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and are determined to rub
+      out the very name of the Nez Perces from the mountains. Return, I say, to
+      your towns, and fight there, if you wish to live any longer as a people.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native
+      tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told all
+      that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous
+      measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their
+      accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and as
+      often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at present,
+      and, of course, took no precautions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a band
+      of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All now was
+      consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was too small to
+      cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men having gone to
+      their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The sages met in
+      hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow which threatened
+      annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a Pierced-nose chief,
+      named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach secretly with a small,
+      but chosen band, through a defile which led to the encampment of the
+      enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the horses. Should this blow
+      be successful, the spirit and strength of the invaders would be broken,
+      and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be more than a match for them.
+      Should it fail, the village would not be worse off than at present, when
+      destruction appeared inevitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow Blue
+      John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the solemnity
+      and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his medicine, or
+      talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge as a supernatural
+      protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise would be completely
+      successful, provided no rain should fall before he had passed through the
+      defile; but should it rain, his band would be utterly cut off.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies
+      would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope;
+      and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and
+      horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring
+      style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as
+      they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and
+      there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to
+      read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John
+      remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was their hope
+      to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the Blackfoot camp;
+      but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they met a scouting
+      party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among the hills, and were
+      pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard shouts and yells behind
+      them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet advancing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant
+      retreat. &ldquo;We came to fight!&rdquo; replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his
+      war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed him.
+      They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of victory,
+      but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful carnage,
+      rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid heaps of
+      their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with numbers and
+      pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued to fight until
+      they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty, survived. He sprang on
+      the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had slain, and escaping at full
+      speed, brought home the baleful tidings to his village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower of
+      their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The air was
+      rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting off their
+      ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically bewailing
+      the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The remaining warriors
+      armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed by their gloomy looks
+      and sullen silence that they considered defence hopeless. To their
+      surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing their advantage; perhaps
+      satisfied with the blood already shed, or disheartened by the loss they
+      had themselves sustained. At any rate, they disappeared from the hills,
+      and it was soon ascertained that they had returned to the Horse Prairie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of their
+      warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away the
+      bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless
+      trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely
+      they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off; a
+      proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe renowned
+      for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the Indian victor
+      thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the deceased.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across their
+      pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the village.
+      The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing cries and
+      wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom and sorrow
+      seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost undistinguishable
+      bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the midst of the
+      assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and lamentation that
+      ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian stoicism.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe
+      during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that Kosato,
+      the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been prevented from
+      going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse the vindictive
+      feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to revenge the
+      slaughter of their devoted braves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one
+      of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at this
+      time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians
+      encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they
+      had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with a
+      resident trader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who was stationed among them,
+      and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the trader was
+      almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply not having
+      yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence that the
+      supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped, how-ever, by
+      a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the market to
+      himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he opened his
+      packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares: bright cloths,
+      and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and everything gay and
+      glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all, however, was in vain. The
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay trader was a perfect master of his business, thoroughly
+      acquainted with the Indians he had to deal with, and held such control
+      over them that none dared to act openly in opposition to his wishes; nay,
+      more&mdash;he came nigh turning the tables upon the captain, and shaking
+      the allegiance of some of his free trappers, by distributing liquors among
+      them. The latter, therefore, was glad to give up a competition, where the
+      war was likely to be carried into his own camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the traders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company have advantages over all
+      competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge monopoly
+      centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and long-established
+      power and influence; but also those of its ancient rival, but now integral
+      part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus its races of traders,
+      trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought up in its service, and
+      inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge and aptitude in
+      everything connected with Indian life, and Indian traffic. In the process
+      of years, this company has been enabled to spread its ramifications in
+      every direction; its system of intercourse is founded upon a long and
+      intimate knowledge of the character and necessities of the various tribes;
+      and of all the fastnesses, defiles, and favorable hunting grounds of the
+      country. Their capital, also, and the manner in which their supplies are
+      distributed at various posts, or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their
+      traders well supplied, and enable them to furnish their goods to the
+      Indians at a cheap rate. Their men, too, being chiefly drawn from the
+      Canadas, where they enjoy great influence and control, are engaged at the
+      most trifling wages, and supported at little cost; the provisions which
+      they take with them being little more than Indian corn and grease. They
+      are brought also into the most perfect discipline and subordination,
+      especially when their leaders have once got them to their scene of action
+      in the heart of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come
+      within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost
+      hopeless.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly after Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s ineffectual attempt to participate in
+      the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company
+      arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the market.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month
+      Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green
+      River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the
+      preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and prepared
+      for the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country;
+      which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie
+      immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads of
+      the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies; but
+      they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois had,
+      latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves to the
+      Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their migrations
+      rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages of the
+      Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would range
+      their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this was their
+      reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal hunting
+      ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his engagements
+      required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River Valley; and he had
+      already formed his ulterior plans.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a
+      stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey; the
+      route lay through Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, and other mountain passes infested by the
+      Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They were not
+      disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers, when they had
+      good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the head-waters of
+      Salmon River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt
+      to be law&mdash;who had the whole wilderness before them, &ldquo;where to
+      choose,&rdquo; and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their
+      services&mdash;it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain
+      Bonneville fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question;
+      appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing a
+      rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing winter.
+      The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or five hired
+      men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of a trapping
+      party; which when accurately organized is composed of two thirds trappers
+      whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of game; and one third
+      camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the tents, take care of
+      the horses and do all other duties usually assigned by the Indians to
+      their women. This part of the service is apt to be fulfilled by French
+      creoles from Canada and the valley of the Mississippi.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade and
+      received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various directions.
+      As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a mountain to the
+      northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would have to pass; and
+      as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had their scouts out
+      watching every movement of the encampments, so as to cut off stragglers or
+      weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed upon the Nez Perces to
+      accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they should be beyond the range of
+      the enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at the
+      same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the Blackfeet;
+      while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in an opposite
+      direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, on his
+      way to Green River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same
+      moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and
+      picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their
+      rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons,
+      their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with
+      packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening
+      cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the
+      plains and mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      19.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Precautions in dangerous defiles&mdash;Trappers&rsquo; mode of defence
+     on a prairie&mdash;A mysterious visitor&mdash;Arrival in Green River
+     Valley&mdash;Adventures of the detachments&mdash;The forlorn partisan
+     &mdash;His tale of disasters.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the
+      most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures
+      with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When on
+      the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to reconnoitre
+      the country through which they were to pass. The encampments were selected
+      with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day. The horses were
+      brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a party was sent out to
+      scour the neighborhood for half a mile round, beating up every grove and
+      thicket that could give shelter to a lurking foe. When all was reported
+      safe, the horses were cast loose and turned out to graze. Were such
+      precautions generally observed by traders and hunters, we should not so
+      often hear of parties being surprised by the Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here
+      mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from a
+      veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey with
+      a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses under his
+      care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided with a
+      picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern fetters for
+      the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a long line; or
+      sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from each other to
+      prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when there is no covert
+      at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to the rear and form a
+      circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into the ground in the
+      centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their forelegs, so that, in
+      case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they unload them, and dispose
+      of their packs as breastworks on the periphery of the circle; each man
+      having nine packs behind which to shelter himself. In this promptly-formed
+      fortress, they await the assault of the enemy, and are enabled to set
+      large bands of Indians at defiance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry&rsquo;s
+      Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American
+      trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all
+      hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary
+      female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on a
+      mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched round
+      the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently into the
+      midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground, still holding
+      her horse by the long halter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet resolute
+      demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and trappers gathered
+      round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She remained silent, but
+      maintained her air of calmness and self-possession. Captain Bonneville
+      approached and interrogated her as to the object of her mysterious visit.
+      Her answer was brief but earnest&mdash;&ldquo;I love the whites&mdash;I will go
+      with them.&rdquo; She was forthwith invited to a lodge, of which she readily
+      took possession, and from that time forward was considered one of the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain
+      Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous
+      region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of a
+      horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called the
+      Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson&rsquo;s and Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, fell over
+      the brink, and was dashed to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River. As
+      he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with the
+      carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently been
+      there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to a halt, and
+      as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of rendezvous on Horse
+      Creek, where he had expected to meet with his detached parties of trappers
+      on the following day. Early in the morning the spies made their appearance
+      in the camp, and with them came three trappers of one of his bands, from
+      the rendezvous, who told him his people were all there expecting him. As
+      to the slaughter among the buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band
+      of Shoshonies, who had fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and
+      accompanied them to the rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the
+      three worthies from the rendezvous broached a small keg of &ldquo;alcohol,&rdquo;
+       which they had brought with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor
+      went briskly round; all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved
+      forward to the rendezvous in high spirits.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other
+      on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its
+      tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the
+      various detachments of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s company, thus brought together
+      on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which he had sent
+      from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to winter on Snake
+      River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the course of their
+      spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men. They had come in
+      competition with rival trapping parties, particularly one belonging to the
+      Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long stories to relate of their
+      manoeuvres to forestall or distress each other. In fact, in these virulent
+      and sordid competitions, the trappers of each party were more intent upon
+      injuring their rivals, than benefitting themselves; breaking each other&rsquo;s
+      traps, trampling and tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every
+      thing in their power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail
+      these pitiful contentions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville
+      had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding
+      year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow country,
+      and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was to proceed
+      and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This partisan
+      appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful tale of
+      disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell in with a
+      village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse stealers, and
+      errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of his men to
+      desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When he attempted
+      to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to him and declared
+      the deserters were their good friends, had determined to remain among
+      them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan, therefore, was fain
+      to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their own feather, and being
+      too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous pass across the mountains to
+      meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he made, with the few that
+      remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood of Tullock&rsquo;s Fort, on the
+      Yellowstone, under the protection of which he went into winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad as
+      the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing away
+      thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their hands
+      on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for whiskey,
+      and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a few
+      free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off early
+      in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the course of
+      the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a steep mountain,
+      that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during the night. The
+      place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the sign of an Indian
+      in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had been turned by a
+      footstep. But who can calculate on security in the midst of the Indian
+      country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy, and seems to come and
+      go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce been turned loose, when
+      a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors entered the camp. They
+      affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their appearance and movements
+      awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran trappers, well versed in
+      Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies sent on some sinister errand,
+      they took them in custody, and set to work to drive in the horses. It was
+      too late&mdash;the horses were already gone. In fact, a war party of
+      Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for several days, watching with
+      the patience and perseverance of Indians, for some moment of negligence
+      and fancied security, to make a successful swoop. The two spies had
+      evidently been sent into the camp to create a diversion, while their
+      confederates carried off the spoil.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his
+      prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them
+      to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon found
+      that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on
+      horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very
+      horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment;
+      but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their
+      steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was now
+      attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to
+      barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers
+      spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were
+      relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to
+      their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a
+      blaze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another,
+      in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of
+      the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of the
+      captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many parting
+      words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart, and
+      knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort to
+      escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and retaken;
+      then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the sight of their
+      retreating comrades.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who mingle
+      in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible recrimination
+      on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any atrocities committed by
+      the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this signal and recent
+      provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the kind dwell in the
+      recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of honor and conscience
+      to revenge them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It was
+      out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party; the
+      only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first
+      water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the
+      stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments at which
+      they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the partisan, he
+      found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous at Green River
+      Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain Bonneville this
+      forlorn account of his misadventures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      20.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Gathering in Green River valley&mdash;Visitings and feastings of
+     leaders&mdash;Rough wassailing among the trappers&mdash;Wild blades of
+     the mountains&mdash;Indian belles&mdash;Potency of bright beads and
+     red blankets&mdash;Arrival of supplies&mdash;Revelry and extravagance
+     &mdash;Mad wolves&mdash;The lost Indian
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those general
+      gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have already
+      mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past had been
+      endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were here
+      encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About four
+      miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the American
+      Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain Fur
+      Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these companies
+      in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus brought in
+      juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly aloof from
+      each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl and
+      bloodshed would ensue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar, meet
+      with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting season over,
+      all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and bickerings
+      buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of September,
+      all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding their furs
+      and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the trapper&rsquo;s holiday,
+      when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a saturnalia among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had
+      been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits, had
+      quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn every
+      favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling at their
+      respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in possession
+      of a rich stock of peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of
+      perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other in
+      the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich treat for the
+      worthy captain was to see the &ldquo;chivalry&rdquo; of the various encampments,
+      engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping, wrestling, shooting with
+      the rifle, and running horses. And then their rough hunters&rsquo; feastings and
+      carousels. They drank together, they sang, they laughed, they whooped;
+      they tried to out-brag and out-lie each other in stories of their
+      adventures and achievements. Here the free trappers were in all their
+      glory; they considered themselves the &ldquo;cocks of the walk,&rdquo; and always
+      carried the highest crests. Now and then familiarity was pushed too far,
+      and would effervesce into a brawl, and a &ldquo;rough and tumble&rdquo; fight; but it
+      all ended in cordial reconciliation and maudlin endearment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause
+      temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects of
+      rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper who
+      could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper of
+      precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period of
+      gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager competition
+      and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales were hastily
+      ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth. A mania for
+      purchasing spread itself throughout the several bands&mdash;munitions for
+      war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon with equal avidity&mdash;rifles,
+      hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red blankets, garish beads, and
+      glittering trinkets, were bought at any price, and scores run up without
+      any thought how they were ever to be rubbed off. The free trappers,
+      especially, were extravagant in their purchases. For a free mountaineer to
+      pause at a paltry consideration of dollars and cents, in the attainment of
+      any object that might strike his fancy, would stamp him with the mark of
+      the beast in the estimation of his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of
+      these free and flourishing blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might
+      stare him in the face, would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be
+      forgiven.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers
+      were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses
+      caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted about in
+      all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality was indulged to
+      its fullest extent, and in a little while most of the trappers, having
+      squandered away all their wages, and perhaps run knee-deep in debt, were
+      ready for another hard campaign in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves
+      in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps for
+      three nights successively, and bit several of the people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal
+      favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals.
+      Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy, and
+      lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted and
+      urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him, and,
+      leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth, gnashing
+      his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his senses, and
+      warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not be able to
+      restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain relief; but
+      on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and his
+      accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards a
+      solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a valley,
+      and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the mountains, and
+      was seen no more.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the
+      encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been
+      bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on his
+      return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed symptoms
+      of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length, breaking away
+      from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows, where they left
+      him to his fate!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      21.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Schemes of Captain Bonneville&mdash;The Great Salt Lake
+     Expedition to explore it&mdash;Preparations for a journey to the
+     Bighorn
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy, well-seasoned
+      and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited by at least one
+      year&rsquo;s experience among the mountains, and capable of protecting
+      themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing for their
+      subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an excellent
+      troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service. He
+      determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of his
+      scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the unknown
+      tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the buffalo range.
+      This would have something of the merit and charm of discovery, so dear to
+      every brave and adventurous spirit. Another favorite project was to
+      establish a trading post on the lower part of the Columbia River, near the
+      Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to retrieve for his country some of the
+      lost trade of Astoria.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his
+      mind&mdash;the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of
+      the wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression
+      on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal
+      charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the
+      mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those vast
+      and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of the
+      Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from the
+      land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you behold
+      this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and stretching
+      further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse, until the eye,
+      wearied with continued and strained attention, rests in the blue dimness
+      of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains, confidently asserted to rise
+      from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to you, the smooth and unruffled
+      surface is studded with little islands, where the mountain sheep roam in
+      considerable numbers. What extent of lowland may be encompassed by the
+      high peaks beyond, must remain for the present matter of mere conjecture
+      though from the form of the summits, and the breaks which may be
+      discovered among them, there can be little doubt that they are the sources
+      of streams calculated to water large tracts, which are probably concealed
+      from view by the rotundity of the lake&rsquo;s surface. At some future day, in
+      all probability, the rich harvest of beaver fur, which may be reasonably
+      anticipated in such a spot, will tempt adventurers to reduce all this
+      doubtful region to the palpable certainty of a beaten track. At present,
+      however, destitute of the means of making boats, the trapper stands upon
+      the shore, and gazes upon a promised land which his feet are never to
+      tread.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to this
+      great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas concerning
+      it from the representations of others, who have somewhat exaggerated its
+      features. It is reported to be about one hundred and fifty miles long, and
+      fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks which Captain Bonneville
+      speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are probably the summits of mountains
+      beyond it, which may be visible at a vast distance, when viewed from an
+      eminence, in the transparent atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several
+      large islands certainly exist in the lake; one of which is said to be
+      mountainous, but not by any means to the extent required to furnish the
+      series of peaks above mentioned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains, is
+      said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake, who
+      professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered excessively
+      from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and there being
+      no fresh streams running into it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished the
+      circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large
+      streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring, when
+      the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows, the lake
+      rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer, it
+      gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt upon
+      its shores.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is
+      estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above
+      the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the
+      atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report of
+      firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme dryness,
+      causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced in former
+      passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the Rocky
+      Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a height
+      is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though the salt
+      lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was the
+      grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was one in
+      which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed it would
+      be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams with which
+      the lake must be fringed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in
+      whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him to
+      keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his
+      route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his
+      journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of
+      his route, and of the surrounding country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men,
+      which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were
+      to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear
+      River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point
+      of general rendezvous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe
+      transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic
+      States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time in
+      the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up their
+      supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries
+      collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow
+      country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend in
+      boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St. Louis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same route,
+      under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would accompany
+      Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal hunt in the
+      Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      22.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The Crow country&mdash;A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows&mdash;
+     Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man&mdash;His fights with
+     the Blackfeet&mdash;His elevation&mdash;His death&mdash;Arapooish, the Crow
+     chief&mdash;His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell&mdash;Honor among
+     Crows
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will
+      impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who inhabit
+      it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are any, of the
+      country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from the Black Hills to
+      the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty ranges, and embracing
+      many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind River, the Yellowstone,
+      the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the Nebraska. The country
+      varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains of sand and clay,
+      studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are mountainous and
+      picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines, and abounds with
+      game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a
+      Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;is a good country. The Great Spirit has put
+      it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well; whenever
+      you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains; the
+      water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no grass;
+      you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is a country
+      without horses?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and eat
+      fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones out of
+      their mouths. Fish is poor food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the
+      muddy water of the Missouri&mdash;that is bad. A Crow&rsquo;s dog would not
+      drink such water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good
+      grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow
+      country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no salt
+      weed for the horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains
+      and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every season.
+      When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under the
+      mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the
+      bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can hunt the
+      elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for dressing;
+      there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain
+      pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap
+      beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in
+      the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for
+      yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in the
+      Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to be
+      found there. There is no country like the Crow country.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory
+      habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but
+      their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory
+      habits, are gradually wearing them out.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose,
+      an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter to
+      Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to Astoria,
+      who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and who remained
+      among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting their congenial
+      habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of that renegade may
+      not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected with the fortunes
+      of the tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his daring
+      deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He aspired to
+      command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate exploits. He
+      distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet. On one occasion,
+      a band of those savages had fortified themselves within a breastwork, and
+      could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work. &ldquo;Who will take the
+      lead?&rdquo; was the demand. &ldquo;I!&rdquo; cried he; and putting himself at their head,
+      rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed him he shot down with his
+      rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his victim, killed four others
+      within the fort. The victory was complete, and Rose returned to the Crow
+      village covered with glory, and bearing five Blackfoot scalps, to be
+      erected as a trophy before his lodge. From this time, he was known among
+      the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats, or &ldquo;the man who killed five.&rdquo; He
+      became chief of the village, or rather band, and for a time was the
+      popular idol. His popularity soon awakened envy among the native braves;
+      he was a stranger, an intruder, a white man. A party seceded from his
+      command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded that lasted for two or three
+      years, until Rose, having contrived to set his adopted brethren by the
+      ears, left them, and went down the Missouri in 1823. Here he fell in with
+      one of the earliest trapping expeditions sent by General Ashley across the
+      mountains. It was conducted by Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose
+      enlisted with them as guide and interpreter. When he got them among the
+      Crows, he was exceedingly generous with their goods; making presents to
+      the braves of his adopted tribe, as became a high-minded chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition,
+      Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley;
+      the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse
+      Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the
+      instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was the
+      perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr. Hunt
+      and his party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General
+      Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to protect
+      the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation, at which Rose
+      figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The military were
+      stationed at some little distance from the scene of the &ldquo;big talk&rdquo;; while
+      the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and making speeches, the
+      officers, supposing all was friendly, left the troops, and drew near the
+      scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing Crows, perceiving this,
+      stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, contrived to stop the
+      touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly after, a
+      misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the Indians, knowing
+      the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult arose. In the
+      confusion, Colonel O&rsquo;Fallan snapped a pistol in the face of a brave, and
+      knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all in a fury. A
+      chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when Rose, his
+      natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke the stock of
+      his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so vigorously about
+      him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng to flight. Luckily,
+      as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting calmed the fury of the
+      Crows, and the tumult ended without serious consequences.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly known.
+      Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by his
+      licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud among the
+      Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and the influence he
+      acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial effects. He is said,
+      not merely to have rendered them more formidable to the Blackfeet, but to
+      have opened their eyes to the policy of cultivating the friendship of the
+      white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After Rose&rsquo;s death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with
+      indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who had
+      been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed to develope.
+      This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to restrain the
+      predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against the white men.
+      &ldquo;If we keep friends with them,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;we have nothing to fear from the
+      Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains.&rdquo; Arapooish pretended to be a great
+      &ldquo;medicine man&rdquo;, a character among the Indians which is a compound of
+      priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried about with him a tame
+      eagle, as his &ldquo;medicine&rdquo; or familiar. With the white men, he acknowledged
+      that this was all charlatanism, but said it was necessary, to give him
+      weight and influence among his people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the course
+      of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the village of
+      Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had collected a
+      large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered, deposited but a
+      part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a cache. One night,
+      Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and seated himself for a
+      time without saying a word. At length, turning to Campbell, &ldquo;You have more
+      furs with you,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;than you have brought into my lodge?&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I have,&rdquo; replied Campbell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Where are they?&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and the
+      importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where he
+      had concealed his peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;&lsquo;Tis well,&rdquo; replied Arapooish; &ldquo;you speak straight. It is just as you
+      say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been
+      taken from it.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one
+      hundred and fifty beaver skins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached
+      his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and
+      commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back:
+      declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he
+      would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged
+      Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring in
+      the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at a
+      time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them
+      departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat in one
+      corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a muscle of
+      his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all the skins had been
+      brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and Campbell expressed
+      himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He fasted all that night,
+      nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some more skins were brought
+      in, and continued to come, one and two at a time, throughout the day,
+      until but a few were wanting to make the number complete. Campbell was now
+      anxious to put an end to this fasting of the old chief, and again declared
+      that he was perfectly satisfied. Arapooish demanded what number of skins
+      were yet wanting. On being told, he whispered to some of his people, who
+      disappeared. After a time the number were brought in, though it was
+      evident they were not any of the skins that had been stolen, but others
+      gleaned in the village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Is all right now?&rdquo; demanded Arapooish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;All is right,&rdquo; replied Campbell.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Good! Now bring me meat and drink!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his
+      guest.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;When you come another time among the Crows,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;don&rsquo;t hide your
+      goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the
+      lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one
+      who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for my
+      sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may be
+      disposed to be troublesome. Don&rsquo;t linger, therefore, but pack your horses
+      and be off.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow country.
+      He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black as they are
+      painted. &ldquo;Trust to their honor,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;and you are safe: trust to
+      their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the course
+      of our narrative.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      23.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure from&mdash;Green River valley&mdash;Popo-Agie&mdash;Its course&mdash;
+     The rivers into which it runs&mdash;Scenery of the Bluffs the
+     great Tar Spring&mdash;Volcanic tracts in the Crow country&mdash;
+     Burning Mountain of Powder River&mdash;Sulphur springs&mdash;Hidden
+     fires&mdash;Colter&rsquo;s Hell-Wind River&mdash;Campbell&rsquo;s party&mdash;
+     Fitzpatrick and his trappers&mdash;Captain Stewart, an amateur
+     traveller&mdash;Nathaniel Wyeth&mdash;Anecdotes of his expedition to
+     the Far West&mdash;Disaster of Campbell&rsquo;s party&mdash;A union of
+     bands&mdash;The Bad Pass&mdash;The rapids&mdash;Departure of Fitzpatrick&mdash;
+     Embarkation of peltries&mdash;Wyeth and his bull boat&mdash;Adventures
+     of Captain&mdash;Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains&mdash;Adventures
+     in the plain&mdash;Traces of Indians&mdash;Travelling precautions&mdash;
+     Dangers of making a smoke&mdash;The rendezvous
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out on
+      his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men,
+      including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River
+      valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of
+      mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell&rsquo;s party,
+      which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived that
+      it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this was
+      different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to the
+      northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream takes
+      its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian names, is
+      characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head; and Agie,
+      river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the south end of the
+      Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it falls into the
+      Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains, but is twice crossed
+      by chains of mountains; the first called the Littlehorn; the second, the
+      Bighorn. After it has forced its way through the first chain, it is called
+      the Horn River; after the second chain, it is called the Bighorn River.
+      Its passage through this last chain is rough and violent; making repeated
+      falls, and rushing down long and furious rapids, which threaten
+      destruction to the navigator; though a hardy trapper is said to have shot
+      down them in a canoe. At the foot of these rapids, is the head of
+      navigation; where it was the intention of the parties to construct boats,
+      and embark.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in full
+      view of the &ldquo;Bluffs,&rdquo; as they are called, extending from the base of the
+      Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the eye a
+      confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and angular,
+      some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up in
+      fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no soil
+      favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all this
+      isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints and
+      hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this neighborhood, the captain made search for &ldquo;the great Tar Spring,&rdquo;
+       one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties of which, he
+      had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a toilsome search,
+      he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east of the Wind River
+      Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the color and consistency
+      of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect a quantity of it, to use
+      as an ointment for the galled backs of their horses, and as a balsam for
+      their own pains and aches. From the description given of it, it is
+      evidently the bituminous oil, called petrolium or naphtha, which forms a
+      principal ingredient in the potent medicine called British Oil. It is
+      found in various parts of Europe and Asia, in several of the West India
+      islands, and in some places of the United States. In the state of New
+      York, it is called Seneca Oil, from being found near the Seneca lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in
+      superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the
+      trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding with
+      anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places
+      emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A
+      volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of the
+      tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the odor
+      derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned place was
+      first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and Clarke&rsquo;s
+      exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely wanderings,
+      and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden fires, smoking
+      pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading &ldquo;smell of brimstone,&rdquo; that it
+      received, and has ever since retained among trappers, the name of
+      &ldquo;Colter&rsquo;s Hell!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain
+      Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams
+      entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name
+      to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most
+      important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen,
+      Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for a
+      fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the
+      afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on the
+      opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were Indians;
+      he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and, by the long
+      line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of Campbell, which,
+      having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to the Horn River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the 4th of
+      August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn Mountain. In
+      company with Campbell&rsquo;s convoy was a trapping party of the Rocky Mountain
+      Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell&rsquo;s embarkation on the
+      Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses, and proceed on a trapping
+      campaign. There were, moreover, two chance companions in the rival camp.
+      One was Captain Stewart, of the British army, a gentleman of noble
+      connections, who was amusing himself by a wandering tour in the Far West;
+      in the course of which, he had lived in hunter&rsquo;s style; accompanying
+      various bands of traders, trappers, and Indians; and manifesting that
+      relish for the wilderness that belongs to men of game spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell&rsquo;s camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth;
+      the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with whom
+      we parted company in the valley of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, after the battle with
+      the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out from the
+      rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of trappers. On
+      his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to the deserted
+      fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a dismal scene. The
+      fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the slain; while vultures
+      soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around; and Indian dogs howled
+      about the place, as if bewailing the death of their masters. Wyeth
+      travelled for a considerable distance to the southwest, in company with
+      Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the former, with eleven men, the
+      remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake River; kept down the course of
+      that eventful stream; traversed the Blue Mountains, trapping beaver
+      occasionally by the way, and finally, after hardships of all kinds,
+      arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver, on the Columbia, the main
+      factory of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that
+      company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or
+      tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue any
+      longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some entered
+      into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the goods he had
+      brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a word, his
+      expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a failure. He
+      lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as strong as
+      ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of service to
+      him in the further prosecution of his project; collected all the
+      information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by merely two
+      men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got thus far &ldquo;by
+      hook and by crook,&rdquo; a mode in which a New England man can make his way all
+      over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties, and was now bound
+      for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a company for the
+      salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of their
+      route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were
+      reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one
+      night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this
+      tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and
+      confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the
+      horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head, and
+      nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses, leaving the
+      rest of the party to find their way to the main body on foot.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus
+      fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great good
+      fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The captain,
+      however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his trappers, who
+      kept profound silence as to their future movements, intended to hunt the
+      same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal campaign; which lay to
+      the west of the Horn River, on its tributary streams. In the course of his
+      march, therefore, he secretly detached a small party of trappers, to make
+      their way to those hunting grounds, while he continued on with the main
+      body; appointing a rendezvous, at the next full moon, about the 28th of
+      August, at a place called the Medicine Lodge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where the
+      river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with cascades
+      and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks, and traverse
+      the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically called the
+      &ldquo;Bad Pass.&rdquo; Descending the opposite side, they again made for the river
+      banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below the rapids
+      where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain Bonneville
+      detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten men, to seek and
+      join those whom he had detached while on the route; appointing for them
+      the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the 28th of August.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to construct &ldquo;bull boats,&rdquo; as they are
+      technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of the
+      expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo
+      skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats.
+      Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood,
+      launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down
+      an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries
+      teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow traveller,
+      and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, took passage in
+      his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two Indians. We shall
+      hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the course of our
+      wanderings about the Far West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That of
+      Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he embarked
+      all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a party of
+      thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and the little
+      squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the Bighorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his men
+      first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably,
+      superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in
+      that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the
+      peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above a
+      hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder, and
+      Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was desirous of
+      having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures they met with in
+      that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall have something to
+      relate hereafter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign
+      without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at
+      Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six
+      horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain
+      and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril for a
+      numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his
+      difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon of his first day&rsquo;s journey, on drawing near to the
+      Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the
+      night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from its
+      base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very irregular;
+      sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up in heavy
+      volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there; probably,
+      some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do for so small
+      a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture within sight of
+      any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his companions, therefore,
+      avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and, proceeding with extreme caution,
+      reached the summit of the mountain, apparently without being discovered.
+      Here they found a deserted Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced
+      themselves; disposed of every thing as securely as possible, and passed
+      the night without molestation. Early the next morning they descended the
+      south side of the mountain into the great plain extending between it and
+      the Littlehorn range. Here they soon came upon numerous footprints, and
+      the carcasses of buffaloes; by which they knew there must be Indians not
+      far off. Captain Bonneville now began to feel solicitude about the two
+      small parties of trappers which he had detached, lest the Indians should
+      have come upon them before they had united their forces. But he felt still
+      more solicitude about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he
+      could traverse these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad;
+      and should he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one.
+      Everything now depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous
+      to discharge a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such
+      quick-eared and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the
+      day they saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in
+      great numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they
+      encamped with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for
+      their protection.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but cautiously,
+      across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the Horn River;
+      encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island; meeting,
+      repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in passing through a
+      defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock their rifles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution, and
+      they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the report.
+      They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with them to the
+      place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived safely, in the
+      evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a fortress
+      of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest caution.
+      Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no glare, and a
+      moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance. In the morning
+      and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises perpendicularly
+      in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the tree-tops, and can
+      be discovered from afar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously
+      encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had been
+      expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had their
+      several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we will
+      furnish to the reader in the next chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      24.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Adventures of the party of ten&mdash;The&mdash;Balaamite mule&mdash;A dead
+     point&mdash;The mysterious elks&mdash;A night attack&mdash;A retreat&mdash;
+     Travelling under an alarm&mdash;A joyful meeting&mdash;Adventures of
+     the other party&mdash;A decoy elk&mdash;Retreat to an island&mdash;A savage
+     dance of triumph&mdash;Arrival at Wind River
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These
+      trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where
+      the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain, and
+      having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set his trap
+      in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his steed came to a
+      full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to every blow and kick
+      the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused to budge an inch. The
+      rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of some cause for this
+      demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian fort within gunshot
+      distance, lowering through the twilight. In a twinkling he wheeled about;
+      his mule now seemed as eager to get on as himself, and in a few moments
+      brought him, clattering with his traps, among his comrades. He was jeered
+      at for his alacrity in retreating; his report was treated as a false
+      alarm; his brother trappers contented themselves with reconnoitring the
+      fort at a distance, and pronounced that it was deserted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on
+      his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard
+      stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their
+      blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with a
+      long day&rsquo;s march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a profound
+      sleep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the sentinel
+      stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped as heartily
+      as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to nod at his
+      post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He half opened
+      his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about the lodges,
+      picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight of elk within
+      the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but having had his
+      supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to graze about
+      unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and
+      tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to
+      secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking,
+      and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and
+      firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded in
+      driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered still
+      more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage, and camp
+      furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The Indians, in
+      the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up the most horrible
+      clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or frightening off the
+      horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked them briskly and drove
+      them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept up for an hour, when the
+      Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave up the contest and retired.
+      They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet, who, while in search of the
+      Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of Captain Bonneville on the Popo
+      Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but had been completely baffled by
+      his vigilance. They had then waylaid the present detachment, and were
+      actually housed in perfect silence within their fort, when the mule of the
+      trapper made such a dead point.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility,
+      mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of
+      the most insulting kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed. On
+      preparing the morning&rsquo;s meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and other
+      articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by the
+      fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel. As the
+      Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had intended to
+      travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward rapidly through
+      the &ldquo;Bad Pass,&rdquo; nor halted until night; when, supposing themselves out of
+      the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with tying up their
+      horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to sleep, when a dog
+      strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons tied upon his back;
+      for dogs are made to carry burdens among the Indians. The sentinel, more
+      knowing than he of the preceding night, awoke his companions and reported
+      the circumstance. It was evident that Indians were at hand. All were
+      instantly at work; a strong pen was soon constructed for the horses, after
+      completing which, they resumed their slumbers with the composure of men
+      long inured to dangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various
+      suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them.
+      Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which, with
+      the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be that of
+      the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his march,
+      and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from various
+      signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the Indians.
+      They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried them to the
+      banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its course, until
+      they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here, to their great
+      joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in search, all
+      strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and anxiety.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers. These
+      men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville, had
+      proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river, trapping
+      beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit their traps,
+      one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a distance, and
+      requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started off for the
+      purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some savages in
+      ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off his hide and
+      his horn, started forth an Indian warrior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the others
+      fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could carry off,
+      retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge among the
+      willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had fallen, but
+      who had merely been wounded in the neck.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with all
+      the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among the
+      spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came
+      sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached near
+      by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at the same
+      moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and warned of his
+      danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a moment, bewildered and
+      aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and made off at full speed,
+      quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians rattled after him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed a
+      circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky trappers
+      for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they considered
+      cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their usual mode of
+      bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of the willows. A
+      sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden halt, and laid
+      three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed himself on an
+      eminence to direct all the movements of his people, seeing three of his
+      warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They immediately did so,
+      and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point of woods, carrying off
+      with them the horses, traps, and the greater part of the baggage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered
+      this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up
+      after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could not
+      be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in a
+      neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made
+      their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well as
+      from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in a
+      neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also, who
+      visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of Crows
+      marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore, on the
+      1st of September, made his way to the south, across the Littlehorn
+      Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning westward, moved
+      slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his men to trap as he
+      proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present hunting campaigns to
+      go near the caches on Green River, and as the trappers were in want of
+      traps to replace those they had lost, Captain Bonneville undertook to
+      visit the caches, and procure a supply. To accompany him in this hazardous
+      expedition, which would take him through the defiles of the Wind River
+      Mountains, and up the Green River valley, he took but three men; the main
+      party were to continue on trapping up toward the head of Wind River, near
+      which he was to rejoin them, just about the place where that stream issues
+      from the mountains. We shall accompany the captain on his adventurous
+      errand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      25.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley&mdash;Journey
+     up the Popo Agie&mdash;Buffaloes&mdash;The staring white bears&mdash;The
+     smok&mdash;The warm springs&mdash;Attempt to traverse the Wind River
+     Mountains&mdash;The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms&mdash;
+     Crystal lakes&mdash;Ascent of a snowy peak&mdash;Sublime prospect&mdash;A
+     panorama &ldquo;Les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or wild men of the mountains
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville and
+      his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they fell
+      upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their course,
+      nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous droves of
+      buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of beef. As the
+      hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the game, two small
+      white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path, and, rising upon
+      their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a whimsically solemn
+      gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the bears, having
+      apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves upon all fours,
+      and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon which the bears
+      turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated their serio-comic
+      examination. This was repeated several times, until the hunters, piqued at
+      their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a discharge of their rifles. The
+      bears made an awkward bound or two, as if wounded, and then walked off
+      with great gravity, seeming to commune together, and every now and then
+      turning to take another look at the hunters. It was well for the latter
+      that the bears were but half grown, and had not yet acquired the ferocity
+      of their kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but the
+      hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having secured
+      the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after dark, when,
+      encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great fire, roasted
+      buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the whole of it with
+      keen relish and high glee, and then &ldquo;turned in&rdquo; for the night and slept
+      soundly, like weary and well fed hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river,
+      passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful groves
+      of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville observed a
+      smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the route he was
+      pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed the horses in a
+      thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled cautiously up a
+      height, from which he could overlook the scene of danger. Here, with a
+      spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding country, but not a lodge nor
+      fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be discovered; in short, the smoke
+      which had caused such alarm proved to be the vapor from several warm, or
+      rather hot springs of considerable magnitude, pouring forth streams in
+      every direction over a bottom of white clay. One of the springs was about
+      twenty-five yards in diameter, and so deep that the water was of a bright
+      green color.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River Mountains,
+      which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round their
+      southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they force their
+      way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The mountains
+      were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped, however,
+      that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted, accordingly,
+      to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the branches of the Popo
+      Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of stupendous crags and
+      precipices that barred all progress. Retracing their steps, and falling
+      back upon the river, they consulted where to make another attempt. They
+      were too close beneath the mountains to scan them generally, but they now
+      recollected having noticed, from the plain, a beautiful slope rising, at
+      an angle of about thirty degrees, and apparently without any break, until
+      it reached the snowy region. Seeking this gentle acclivity, they began to
+      ascend it with alacrity, trusting to find at the top one of those elevated
+      plains which prevail among the Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with
+      coarse gravel, interspersed with plates of freestone. They attained the
+      summit with some toil, but found, instead of a level, or rather undulating
+      plain, that they were on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from
+      the bottom of which rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just
+      ascended. Down into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged
+      path, or rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second
+      slope. They gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine,
+      and now perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a
+      sloping and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by
+      frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and
+      dangerous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly and
+      sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and
+      scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous
+      and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded.
+      Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain
+      stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they availed
+      themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep, which,
+      however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or led to
+      rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they were
+      obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which attempt
+      some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the bottom, and
+      came near being dashed to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the
+      elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were
+      two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of
+      stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly
+      refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those
+      mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander
+      hundreds of miles through the plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted to
+      repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and tender
+      herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level of the
+      plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon another, and
+      beetling like battlements far above them. While two of the men remained in
+      the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville, accompanied by the other men
+      [man], set out to climb a neighboring height, hoping to gain a commanding
+      prospect, and discern some practicable route through this stupendous
+      labyrinth. After much toil, he reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it
+      was only to behold gigantic peaks rising all around, and towering far into
+      the snowy regions of the atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be
+      the highest, he crossed a narrow intervening valley, and began to scale
+      it. He soon found that he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride
+      of man is never more obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent
+      was so steep and rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged
+      to clamber on hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs.
+      Frequently, exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they
+      threw themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their
+      parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and hung
+      them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble over
+      these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool
+      breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to
+      their task, they at length attained the summit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time
+      astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact, upon
+      that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world; and on
+      each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the two
+      cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it was
+      confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the Rocky
+      Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn valleys;
+      treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming torrents;
+      while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an almost
+      immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and hazy
+      distance, like the expanse of a summer&rsquo;s sea. Whichever way he looked, he
+      beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty streams
+      wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy
+      mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted like
+      clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed realized: he
+      had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior, after death,
+      first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the happy hunting
+      grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes of the free and
+      generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while gazing upon this
+      scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas and sensations. A
+      long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from this enthralment of the
+      mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this vast panorama. A simple
+      enumeration of a few of its features may give some idea of its collective
+      grandeur and magnificence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole Wind
+      River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense
+      mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with
+      narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes and
+      gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty tributaries
+      to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks, to the south,
+      and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river, called the Sweet
+      Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the rugged regions of
+      the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind River wandered
+      through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current, they forced
+      their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost to view. To
+      the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the Yellowstone,
+      that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction were to be seen
+      some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing to the northwest,
+      past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and pouring down into the
+      great lava plain; while, almost at the captain&rsquo;s feet, the Green River, or
+      Colorado of the West, set forth on its wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of
+      California; at first a mere mountain torrent, dashing northward over a
+      crag and precipice, in a succession of cascades, and tumbling into the
+      plain where, expanding into an ample river, it circled away to the south,
+      and after alternately shining out and disappearing in the mazes of the
+      vast landscape, was finally lost in a horizon of mountains. The day was
+      calm and cloudless, and the atmosphere so pure that objects were
+      discernible at an astonishing distance. The whole of this immense area was
+      inclosed by an outer range of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked
+      on the horizon, which seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with him
+      with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it as his
+      opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American continent; but
+      of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain that the Rocky
+      Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was formerly
+      supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest peak is
+      further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr. Thompson,
+      surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means of the
+      barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be twenty-five
+      thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only inferior to
+      that of the Himalayas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with wonder
+      and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling about the
+      snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained the spot
+      where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their coats, which
+      were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down the peak, they
+      safely rejoined their companions on the border of the lake.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these
+      mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out
+      hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley.
+      Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three
+      savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call
+      their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled the
+      faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and reported
+      what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that these belonged
+      to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit the highest and
+      most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie language, and
+      probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have peculiarities of
+      their own, which distinguish them from all other Indians. They are
+      miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of every convenience to
+      be derived from an intercourse with the whites. Their weapons are bows and
+      stone-pointed arrows, with which they hunt the deer, the elk, and the
+      mountain sheep. They are to be found scattered about the countries of the
+      Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are
+      always in lonely places, and the clefts of the rocks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary
+      valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried among
+      the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still more
+      rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their dread of
+      strangers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are
+      inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare: should
+      one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he is sure to be
+      made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a scalp, and that
+      barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings, forming a mere
+      link between human nature and the brute, have been looked down upon with
+      pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have given them the
+      appellation of &ldquo;les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or &ldquo;the objects of pity.&rdquo;; They
+      appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      26.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent&mdash;Alpine
+     scenery&mdash;Cascades&mdash;Beaver valleys&mdash;Beavers at work&mdash;Their
+     architecture&mdash;Their modes of felling trees&mdash;Mode of trapping
+     beaver&mdash;Contests of skill&mdash;A beaver &ldquo;up to trap&rdquo;&mdash;Arrival at
+     the Green River caches
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had
+      excited Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would
+      be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers of
+      cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he endeavored
+      to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round the southern
+      point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself from the heart
+      of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as to penetrate it.
+      Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream, the commencement
+      of some future river, he descended from rock to rock, and shelf to shelf,
+      between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that sprang up to the sky.
+      Often he had to cross and recross the rushing torrent, as it wound foaming
+      and roaring down its broken channel, or was walled by perpendicular
+      precipices; and imminent was the hazard of breaking the legs of the horses
+      in the clefts and fissures of slippery rocks. The whole scenery of this
+      deep ravine was of Alpine wildness and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers
+      passed beneath cascades which pitched from such lofty heights that the
+      water fell into the stream like heavy rain. In other places, torrents came
+      tumbling from crag to crag, dashing into foam and spray, and making
+      tremendous din and uproar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond the
+      steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged ravine
+      began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and the stream
+      to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character. Here, not merely
+      the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it, was dammed up by
+      communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate the neighborhood,
+      and make continual swamps.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville
+      left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to
+      reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and
+      caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work upon
+      the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold the mode of
+      operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward, therefore, with
+      the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water willows without
+      making any noise, until having attained a position commanding a view of
+      the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the ground, and watched the
+      solitary workman. In a little while, three others appeared at the head of
+      the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With these they proceeded directly to
+      the barrier, which Captain Bonneville perceived was in need of repair.
+      Having deposited their loads upon the broken part, they dived into the
+      water, and shortly reappeared at the surface. Each now brought a quantity
+      of mud, with which he would plaster the sticks and bushes just deposited.
+      This kind of masonry was continued for some time, repeated supplies of
+      wood and mud being brought, and treated in the same manner. This done, the
+      industrious beavers indulged in a little recreation, chasing each other
+      about the pond, dodging and whisking about on the surface, or diving to
+      the bottom; and in their frolic, often slapping their tails on the water
+      with a loud clacking sound. While they were thus amusing themselves,
+      another of the fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their
+      sports for some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed
+      the bank close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on
+      his hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young
+      pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would
+      tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining his
+      sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of a
+      monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down the
+      tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by the
+      approach of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men, who, feeling anxious at the
+      protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the
+      sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived at
+      once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain Bonneville
+      regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the sagacity of the
+      beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said, they manage to make
+      them fall into the water, and in such a position and direction as may be
+      most favorable for conveyance to the desired point. In the present
+      instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it grew
+      perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the beaver
+      could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really capable of
+      exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently engaged in
+      &ldquo;belting&rdquo; the tree, and his first incision had been on the side nearest to
+      the water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged
+      sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has no
+      other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle calculation
+      as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he thinks, has
+      been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees growing near
+      water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or stretch their
+      largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space, the light, and
+      the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks those trees
+      which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or pond. He
+      makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them with his
+      teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in which
+      their trunks or branches preponderate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I have often,&rdquo; says Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;seen trees measuring eighteen
+      inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the
+      beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently for
+      the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do they at
+      times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on Snake River,
+      a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which he had made,
+      the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until he died.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by the
+      beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter
+      provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this
+      business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited.
+      Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the
+      branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into
+      lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to
+      their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious of
+      cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts, will
+      carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw them
+      into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of their
+      territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange beaver
+      to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence as almost
+      to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the breeding season,
+      the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a tour of pleasure,
+      rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself in every clear and
+      quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing the banks occasionally to
+      feast upon the tender sprouts of the young willows. As summer advances, he
+      gives up his bachelor rambles, and bethinking himself of housekeeping
+      duties, returns home to his mate and his new progeny, and marshals them
+      all for the foraging expedition in quest of winter provisions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal as
+      a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as the
+      father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is
+      environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to
+      the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he can
+      detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the lodge
+      may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can
+      generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of its
+      inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the shore,
+      in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of the water,
+      and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A small twig is
+      then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the &ldquo;medicine,&rdquo; as the
+      trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ. This end of the stick
+      rises about four inches above the surface of the water, the other end is
+      planted between the jaws of the trap. The beaver, possessing an acute
+      sense of smell, is soon attracted by the odor of the bait. As he raises
+      his nose toward it, his foot is caught in the trap. In his fright he
+      throws a somerset into the deep water. The trap, being fastened to the
+      pole, resists all his efforts to drag it to the shore; the chain by which
+      it is fastened defies his teeth; he struggles for a time, and at length
+      sinks to the bottom and is drowned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is
+      thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened by
+      the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he is
+      entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however, it
+      costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming,
+      before he finds his game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are
+      trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and can
+      scarcely be &ldquo;brought to medicine,&rdquo; to use the trapper&rsquo;s phrase for &ldquo;taking
+      the bait.&rdquo; In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the bait, and
+      conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of the
+      household. The beaver now being completely &ldquo;up to trap,&rdquo; approaches them
+      cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other times, he
+      turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and occasionally even
+      drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the mud. The trapper now
+      gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering his traps, marches off,
+      admitting that he is not yet &ldquo;up to beaver.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      On the day following Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s supervision of the industrious
+      and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying an
+      account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River
+      Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend to
+      the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived
+      without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous in
+      Green River valley, on the 17th of September.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods and
+      equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the necessary
+      supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all traces that
+      might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      27.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Route toward&mdash;Wind River&mdash;Dangerous neighborhood&mdash;Alarms and
+     precautions&mdash;A sham encampment&mdash;Apparition of an Indian spy&mdash;
+     Midnight move&mdash;A mountain defile&mdash;The Wind River valley&mdash;
+     Tracking a party&mdash;Deserted camps&mdash;Symptoms of Crows&mdash;Meeting
+     of comrades&mdash;A trapper entrapped&mdash;Crow pleasantry&mdash;Crow
+     spies&mdash;A decampment&mdash;Return to Green River valley&mdash;Meeting
+     with Fitzpatrick&rsquo;s party&mdash;Their adventures among the Crows&mdash;
+     Orthodox Crows
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions set
+      out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had
+      parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with that
+      stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River
+      Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile
+      which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains, to
+      the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party,
+      according to arrangement.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood,
+      infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous
+      defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and
+      surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything
+      that might give intimation of lurking danger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill, they
+      discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction. One of
+      the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was concluded,
+      therefore, that there was some party of Indians below, hunting the
+      buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the captain,
+      mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view, reconnoitred the
+      whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was to be seen; so,
+      after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey. Convinced, however,
+      that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced with the utmost
+      caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines, and avoiding, as
+      much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground, that might betray his
+      little party to the watchful eye of an Indian scout.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering on the
+      river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see, scampering
+      in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his companions
+      remained for a long time watching the various groups of the animals, as
+      each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in vain to discover
+      the cause.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green
+      River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore,
+      arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and
+      convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they
+      again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping
+      for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville,
+      therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for
+      encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently dark,
+      to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some
+      secluded spot for their night&rsquo;s lodgings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made a
+      large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when
+      sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting off
+      huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter&rsquo;s
+      appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to attract
+      the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they trusted to
+      be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place. While they
+      were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party suddenly started up
+      and shouted &ldquo;Indians!&rdquo; All were instantly on their feet, with their rifles
+      in their hands; but could see no enemy. The man, however, declared that he
+      had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously, along the trail which they had
+      made in coming to the encampment; who, the moment he was perceived, had
+      thrown himself on the ground, and disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville
+      instantly to decamp. The captain, however, took the matter more coolly.
+      The single fact, that the Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced
+      him that he was not one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He
+      was, probably, some scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came
+      in sight of their fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he
+      had seen to his companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped
+      for the night, would keep aloof until very late, when all should be
+      asleep. They would, then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy
+      approaches, and place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their
+      attack, at the usual hour of daylight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such was Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s conclusion; in consequence of which, he
+      counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from all
+      alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly,
+      continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then
+      trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon, however,
+      as the night had completely set in, they left their fire blazing; walked
+      quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their saddles, made off
+      as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left the point of danger
+      behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious taciturnity, and
+      began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they pictured to
+      themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted fire, waiting for
+      the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand disappointment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure distance,
+      they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the enemy should
+      follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a dense and matted
+      thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of the mountain,
+      instead of making for the summit, as they had originally intended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches morsels
+      of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when surrounded
+      by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for sleep with
+      perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and cook, it is
+      true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come to a halt, and
+      have provisions. They comforted themselves, however, by smoking a tranquil
+      pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning loose the horses,
+      stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that whoever should first
+      awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while were all as sound
+      asleep as though in the midst of a fortress.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for
+      Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at a
+      little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or hear
+      an enemy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them to
+      the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the
+      sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into
+      their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the
+      mountain, avoiding the direct route.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course
+      so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now made
+      sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were tracks
+      of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had recently
+      returned, baffled in their search.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken
+      before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they pushed
+      briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they cautiously
+      concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of Wind
+      River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed the
+      rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the Crow
+      country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of that
+      restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon a trail
+      which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old, however,
+      that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood; driven off,
+      perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the prowl. He continued
+      his search with great anxiety, and no little fatigue; for his horses were
+      jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced marches and scramblings
+      through rocky defiles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a deserted
+      camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned back; but he
+      could find no signs to indicate why they had done so; whether they had met
+      with misfortune, or molestation, or in what direction they had gone. He
+      was now, more than ever, perplexed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The
+      feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the
+      rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About noon,
+      he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost their
+      trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a southerly
+      direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains, which
+      towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible speed, in
+      hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another of their
+      camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day dawned
+      sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that must be
+      dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were traces of
+      Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his people had
+      passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about them.
+      Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great distance, he
+      mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to overtake them,
+      to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt, until he should
+      rejoin them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with six
+      comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his accommodation;
+      and on the following day (September 25th), all hands were once more
+      reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their meeting was
+      hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and perplexities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had
+      been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they had
+      been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their horses
+      had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so closely
+      beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest they should
+      be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had caused such
+      perplexity to Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give
+      repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued
+      their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was
+      setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up, beheld a
+      party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a
+      considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was
+      discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells, they
+      dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their
+      tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave
+      himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather than
+      a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while, at the
+      expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow pranks and
+      pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true, they stripped
+      him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun, a third his traps,
+      a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his accoutrements, and even
+      his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then they generously made him
+      a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and dismissed him, with many
+      complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When the trapper returned to
+      the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted with peals of laughter from
+      his comrades and seemed more mortified by the style in which he had been
+      dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with his life. A circumstance which
+      he related to Captain Bonneville, gave some insight into the cause of this
+      extreme jocularity on the part of the Crows. They had evidently had a run
+      of luck, and, like winning gamblers, were in high good humor. Among
+      twenty-six fine horses, and some mules, which composed their cavalcade,
+      the trapper recognized a number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick&rsquo;s
+      brigade, when they parted company on the Bighorn. It was supposed,
+      therefore, that these vagabonds had been on his trail, and robbed him of
+      part of his cavalry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air
+      imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern,
+      in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of the
+      set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band, they
+      were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his usual
+      kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the camp,
+      and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he caused a
+      strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at night,
+      stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated against the
+      latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect them to be spies,
+      who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his precautions. At the
+      same time, he assured his guests, that while they were perfectly welcome
+      to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet, should any of their tribe
+      venture to approach during the night, they would certainly be shot; which
+      would be a very unfortunate circumstance, and much to be deplored. To the
+      latter remark, they fully assented; and shortly afterward commenced a wild
+      song, or chant, which they kept up for a long time, and in which they very
+      probably gave their friends, who might be prowling round the camp, notice
+      that the white men were on the alert. The night passed away without
+      disturbance. In the morning, the three Crow guests were very pressing that
+      Captain Bonneville and his party should accompany them to their camp,
+      which they said was close by. Instead of accepting their invitation,
+      Captain Bonneville took his departure with all possible dispatch, eager to
+      be out of the vicinity of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the
+      diligence of his march, until, on the second day, he reached the banks of
+      the Sweet Water, beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall
+      of snow had obliterated all traces of his course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point
+      of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches,
+      on the 14th of October.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the
+      defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of them
+      on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back their
+      trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they had
+      discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but
+      fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions,
+      and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville
+      discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than
+      ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a
+      formidable band of freebooters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on
+      the 25th of October reached Liberge&rsquo;s Ford, a tributary of the Colorado,
+      where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which had
+      crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the water
+      that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they could
+      not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the Crow
+      nation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force
+      should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of
+      fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane&rsquo;s Fork, another
+      tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the 26th
+      of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed it to
+      arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to procure
+      information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band of
+      Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party of
+      trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of his
+      fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain
+      Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap upon
+      Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with him,
+      and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not pass through
+      the Crow country without attracting the attention of its freebooting
+      hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces, and came up with
+      them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached Tongue River. The
+      Crow chief came forward with great appearance of friendship, and proposed
+      to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp together. The latter, however, not
+      having any faith in Crows, declined the invitation, and pitched his camp
+      three miles off. He then rode over with two or three men, to visit the
+      Crow chief, by whom he was received with great apparent cordiality. In the
+      meantime, however, a party of young braves, who considered them absolved
+      by his distrust from all scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and
+      dashed into his encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the
+      absence of Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too
+      numerous and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made
+      booty of every thing&mdash;carrying off all the horses. On their way back
+      they met Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by
+      rifling and nearly stripping him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the
+      triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of,
+      we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain to
+      return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles and
+      a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all speed to
+      abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh disasters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows
+      pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out of
+      their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation of the
+      Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about him on
+      his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and mules. It
+      was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely trapper on the
+      Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in exchange for his
+      rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these anecdotes, we
+      shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and its vagabond
+      chivalry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      28.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A region of natural curiosities&mdash;The plain of white clay&mdash;
+     Hot springs&mdash;The Beer Spring&mdash;Departure to seek the free
+     trappers&mdash;Plain of Portneuf&mdash;Lava&mdash;Chasms and gullies&mdash;
+     Bannack Indians&mdash;Their hunt of the buffalo&mdash;Hunter&rsquo;s feast&mdash;
+     Trencher heroes&mdash;Bullying of an absent foe&mdash;The damp
+     comrade&mdash;The Indian spy&mdash;Meeting with Hodgkiss&mdash;His
+     adventures&mdash;Poordevil Indians&mdash;Triumph of the Bannacks&mdash;
+     Blackfeet policy in war
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear River,
+      which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake, describes
+      the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters of this
+      river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never been visited by
+      the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being barricadoed [sic] by
+      fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November, at
+      the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three miles
+      in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and connected
+      with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the Little Lake, to
+      distinguish it from the great one of salt water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the
+      neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area of
+      about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or
+      fuller&rsquo;s earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian
+      marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful at
+      all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in autumn,
+      when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the withered herbage.
+      Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like a mirror, set in the
+      brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered numerous springs of
+      various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of scalding heat, boils
+      furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of two or three feet. In
+      another place, there is an aperture in the earth, from which rushes a
+      column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The ground for some distance
+      around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary trapper, as he hears the
+      tramp of his horse giving the sound of a muffled drum. He pictures to
+      himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of hidden fires, and gazes round
+      him with awe and uneasiness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer
+      Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn
+      aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with as
+      much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert. Captain
+      Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men drank it with
+      avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him to possess any
+      medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects. The Indians,
+      however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the white men from
+      doing so.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as
+      containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the properties
+      of the Ballston water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the
+      party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the
+      command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River. His
+      intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at present
+      travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the winter.
+      Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave of his
+      band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by three
+      men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain of the
+      Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an unfortunate
+      Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country through which
+      he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and conflagrations in the
+      olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered about in every direction;
+      the crags and cliffs had apparently been under the action of fire; the
+      rocks in some places seemed to have been in a state of fusion; the plain
+      was rent and split with deep chasms and gullies, some of which were partly
+      filled with lava.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of horsemen,
+      galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and made full
+      speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves among the
+      trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came forward alone. He
+      reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they were dismounting and
+      about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all uneasiness. It was a
+      party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to the whites, and they
+      proposed, through their envoy, that both parties should encamp together,
+      and hunt the buffalo, of which they had discovered several large herds
+      hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully assented to their proposition,
+      being curious to see their manner of hunting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and
+      prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill near
+      the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The &ldquo;runners,&rdquo; then, as they are
+      called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and arrows, moved
+      slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much as possible out
+      of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper distance, a signal
+      was given, and they all opened at once like a pack of hounds, with a full
+      chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the herds, and launching their
+      arrows to the right and left. The plain seemed absolutely to shake under
+      the tramp of the buffalo, as they scoured off. The cows in headlong panic,
+      the bulls furious with rage, uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning
+      with a desperate rush upon their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the
+      spirit, grace, and dexterity, with which the Indians managed their horses;
+      wheeling and coursing among the affrighted herd, and launching their
+      arrows with unerring aim. In the midst of the apparent confusion, they
+      selected their victims with perfect judgment, generally aiming at the
+      fattest of the cows, the flesh of the bull being nearly worthless, at this
+      season of the year. In a few minutes, each of the hunters had crippled
+      three or four cows. A single shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the
+      animal, once maimed, was left to be completely dispatched at the end of
+      the chase. Frequently, a cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In
+      one instance, Captain Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely
+      through the body of a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The
+      bulls, however, are not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the
+      hunter several arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and
+      chasing them furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still
+      sticking in their flesh.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to
+      dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the
+      carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the
+      choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters&rsquo;
+      feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified,
+      by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed to
+      be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they crammed
+      themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the supper at an
+      end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their mighty deeds, and
+      the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet. Warming with the theme,
+      and inflating themselves with their own eulogies, these magnanimous heroes
+      of the trencher would start up, advance a short distance beyond the light
+      of the fire, and apostrophize most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as
+      though they had been within hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting,
+      and slapping their breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would
+      vociferate all their exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had
+      drenched their towns in tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had
+      inflicted, the warriors they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in
+      triumph. Then, having said everything that could stir a man&rsquo;s spleen or
+      pique his valor, they would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the
+      Bannacks were few in number, to come and take their revenge&mdash;receiving
+      no reply to this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of
+      sneers and insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons,
+      that dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and
+      rhodomontade in which the &ldquo;red men&rdquo; are prone to indulge in their
+      vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are
+      vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and to
+      sound their own trumpet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack braves
+      gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their ruffled
+      feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a single guard
+      over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at their word, but
+      few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any further boasting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of buffalo
+      meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing, were in
+      fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of almost everything
+      that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain concluded, the
+      Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated, they said, at the
+      mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his companions shaped
+      their course toward Snake River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous, but
+      not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the horses
+      was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from the
+      saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were
+      extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely
+      drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While they
+      were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived an Indian scout
+      cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a neighboring hill. The
+      moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared behind the hill. From
+      his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville suspected him to be a scout from
+      the Blackfeet camp, and that he had gone to report what he had seen to his
+      companions. It would not do to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the
+      kindling of the fire was abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in
+      dripping condition, and the little band pushed forward directly into the
+      plain, going at a smart pace, until they had gained a considerable
+      distance from the place of supposed danger. Here encamping for the night,
+      in the midst of abundance of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for
+      their horses, they kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp
+      comrade, and then proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps
+      and ribs, and other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a
+      hearty repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they
+      stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry
+      canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and well-fed
+      mountaineers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident
+      worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the
+      party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie, and
+      deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to discover
+      by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that the trappers had
+      left them; at length, after much wandering and investigating, they came
+      upon the regular trail of the hunting party, which led into the mountains,
+      and following it up briskly, came about two o&rsquo;clock in the afternoon of
+      the 20th, upon the encampment of Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers,
+      in the bosom of a mountain valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters of
+      themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain
+      Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July, preferring
+      to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River, where they expected to
+      find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous neighborhood. Their hunt had
+      not been very successful. They had penetrated the great range of mountains
+      among which some of the upper branches of Salmon River take their rise,
+      but had become so entangled among immense and almost impassable barricades
+      of fallen pines, and so impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great
+      part of their season had been wasted among these mountains. At one time,
+      they had made their way through them, and reached the Boisee River; but
+      meeting with a band of Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended
+      hostilities, they had again taken shelter among the mountains, where they
+      were found by Captain Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment,
+      the captain had the good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers
+      of the mountains, emphatically called &ldquo;les dignes de pitie,&rdquo; or Poordevil
+      Indians. These, however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had
+      with them a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep.
+      These, Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and
+      sent them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy
+      to all their pitiful tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain
+      Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out to
+      rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might all
+      go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered many
+      heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to impede
+      his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party, encamped
+      at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt with the
+      Bannacks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were just
+      then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever,
+      celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their braves
+      being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet moving,
+      as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks immediately
+      posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through which the enemy
+      must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst of it, attacked
+      them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden panic, threw off
+      their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their warriors dead on the
+      spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils; but their greatest prize
+      was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they bore off in triumph to
+      their village, where it had ever since been an object of the greatest
+      exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated upon a pole in the centre
+      of the village, where the warriors had celebrated the scalp dance round
+      it, with war feasts, war songs, and warlike harangues. It had then been
+      given up to the women and boys; who had paraded it up and down the village
+      with shouts and chants and antic dances; occasionally saluting it with all
+      kinds of taunts, invectives, and revilings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the
+      character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed, their
+      conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of inconsistencies;
+      at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless of danger; at
+      another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand these apparent
+      incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare. A war party,
+      however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight, bring back a
+      cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over the glory of
+      their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce and reckless in
+      general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and the chiefs are checked
+      in their boldest undertakings by the fear of sacrificing their warriors.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages, says
+      Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades, though
+      they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious victory,
+      will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning home with
+      dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and wait until
+      the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to mingle again with
+      their people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      29.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Winter camp at the Portneuf&mdash;Fine springs&mdash;The Bannack
+     Indians&mdash;Their honesty&mdash;Captain&mdash;Bonneville prepares for an
+     expedition&mdash;Christmas&mdash;The American&mdash;Falls&mdash;Wild scenery&mdash;
+     Fishing Falls&mdash;Snake Indians&mdash;Scenery on the Bruneau&mdash;View
+     of volcanic country from a mountain&mdash;Powder River&mdash;
+     Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers&mdash;Their character, habits,
+     habitations, dogs&mdash;Vanity at its last shift
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville had
+      drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid all
+      annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however, he had
+      been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the flat land,
+      where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing better for his
+      horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the contrary, were
+      encamped among fine springs of water, where there was grass in abundance.
+      Some of these springs gush out of the earth in sufficient quantity to turn
+      a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear as crystal, and full of trout
+      of a large size, which may be seen darting about the transparent water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in large
+      quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the continued
+      coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and
+      the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good will. A
+      few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their friends;
+      nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith of
+      their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and the want of fodder
+      obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam in quest of
+      sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the Bannacks, they
+      were immediately brought back. It must be confessed, however, that if the
+      stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in vigorous plight and good
+      condition, though he was equally sure to be returned by the honest
+      Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of several days, and in a very
+      gaunt and jaded state; and always with the remark that they had found him
+      a long way off. The uncharitable were apt to surmise that he had, in the
+      interim, been well used up in a buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to
+      Indian morality in the matter of horseflesh, considered it a singular
+      evidence of honesty that he should be brought back at all.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that his
+      people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as they were
+      valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter unmolested,
+      Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition of great extent
+      and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay establishments on
+      the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself acquainted with the country
+      and the Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a
+      trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to
+      participate in the trade lost to the United States by the capture of
+      Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him through the Snake
+      River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the scenes of so much
+      hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their Astorian bands, who
+      first explored it, and he would have to pass through it in the same
+      frightful season, the depth of winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the
+      adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his
+      journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form,
+      and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He
+      proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter
+      encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed, he
+      mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three
+      comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their
+      Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, after
+      which they resumed their journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow
+      had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed and
+      frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route lay to
+      the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were several
+      days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the river, for
+      a considerable distance, both above and below the falls, have a volcanic
+      character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another; the water
+      makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow
+      channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic
+      columns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable stream,
+      called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four miles wide,
+      where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and dryness of the
+      climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream there is a small
+      mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite, in small blocks, is
+      likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white sandstone. From this river,
+      the travellers had a prospect of the snowy heights of the Salmon River
+      Mountains to the north; the nearest, at least fifty miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept several
+      miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary streams;
+      though he often found the open country so encumbered by volcanic rocks, as
+      to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he approached Snake
+      River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with steep,
+      perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days&rsquo; travel across a
+      level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him with
+      astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the river was
+      walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet high,
+      beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and fragments lay
+      in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and whirling current.
+      Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade above forty feet in
+      height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in
+      the air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing Falls, as
+      the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They cannot get by these
+      falls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise,
+      descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in
+      the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the
+      only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their
+      travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were foot
+      tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their
+      progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region; a
+      timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their
+      dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of
+      rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders, in the
+      ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons were bows and
+      arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which abounds in the
+      neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and constructed of
+      branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to be warm and
+      comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small inclosures of
+      wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them a cottage-like
+      appearance. Three or four of these tenements were occasionally grouped
+      together in some wild and striking situation, and had a picturesque
+      effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet.
+      From these people, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party frequently purchased salmon,
+      dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This seemed to be
+      their prime article of food; but they were extremely anxious to get
+      buffalo meat in exchange.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long
+      inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were
+      enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the
+      river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery
+      of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character. The
+      rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small streams
+      come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines: one of a
+      considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within twenty-five
+      feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal line for
+      about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky
+      bank of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is upward
+      of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water. Sometimes it
+      steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other times, for
+      miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to
+      the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness and
+      picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is particularly
+      cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a valley, extending
+      upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in
+      traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across
+      from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so
+      that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks rise
+      perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the plain to the
+      water, or from the river margin to the plain. The current is bright and
+      limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of this river. One bursts out
+      of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a
+      mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains and
+      streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before us; who
+      ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this summit,
+      the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops of the
+      hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to
+      have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by
+      the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills. Through the
+      deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and brooks make their way,
+      which renders it difficult to follow them. All these basaltic channels are
+      called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of the mountain streams disappear
+      in the plains; either absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous
+      surface of the lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River;
+      much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He
+      struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he
+      found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river, and
+      in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance in
+      considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting
+      the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the
+      bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the strangers, and
+      watching every movement. These are of that branch of the great Snake tribe
+      called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their subsisting, in a great
+      measure, on the roots of the earth; though they likewise take fish in
+      great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They are, in general, very
+      poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life, and extremely indolent:
+      but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in many respects, from the
+      other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; who possess horses, are
+      more roving and adventurous, and hunt the buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth of Powder
+      River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these Diggers, as they
+      are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The women and children kept
+      at a distance, perched among the rocks and cliffs; their eager curiosity
+      being somewhat dashed with fear. From their elevated posts, they
+      scrutinized the strangers with the most intense earnestness; regarding
+      them with almost as much awe as if they had been beings of a supernatural
+      order.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned
+      Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity.
+      Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands on
+      underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive
+      neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before they
+      encamped for the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very
+      little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The plains
+      were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were, about the
+      same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they resembled the
+      isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains;
+      especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake
+      River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It
+      should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the
+      Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending
+      on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by
+      unbroken ridges of mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder River,
+      though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a lesson,
+      however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which they
+      subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings. They
+      frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted from the
+      bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying it always
+      lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would gather
+      together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an instant produce
+      a cheering blaze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these
+      Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. &ldquo;They
+      live,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;without any further protection from the inclemency of the
+      season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high, composed of
+      sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape of a half moon.&rdquo;
+       Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a large suite of
+      half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well as in civilized
+      life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs of
+      cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of the
+      neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel kind of
+      chase they acquitted themselves with some credit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping the
+      antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which this
+      is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared, says
+      Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into the
+      thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities,
+      construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a
+      hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game.
+      This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait
+      patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
+      spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women
+      give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them
+      enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round
+      the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way the
+      hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a continued
+      pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor antelopes, in
+      the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men enter and
+      dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered the inclosure.
+      The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an animal so fleet
+      and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life, should range round
+      and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to overleap the low
+      barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to be the fact; and
+      such their only mode of hunting the antelope.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their
+      habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the
+      Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture
+      good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found in
+      their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of
+      basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid of
+      a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on which
+      they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities of seed,
+      of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the plants into
+      wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected is winnowed
+      and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of meal or flour;
+      which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable paste or gruel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay up
+      a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they were
+      ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in Indian
+      life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife, or a
+      fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and starvation;
+      and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers threw away
+      after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick them with the
+      greatest avidity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these Root
+      Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn
+      condition. &ldquo;They were destitute,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;of the necessary covering to
+      protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most
+      unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the use
+      of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a
+      thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity!
+      Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to
+      arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a
+      mirror. It was a &ldquo;great medicine,&rdquo; in their eyes. The sight of one was
+      sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and
+      delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest
+      fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this
+      simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall
+      close our remarks on the Root Diggers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      30.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Temperature of the climate&mdash;Root Diggers on horseback&mdash;An
+     Indian guide&mdash;Mountain prospects&mdash;The Grand Rond&mdash;
+     Difficulties on Snake River&mdash;A scramble over the Blue
+     Mountains&mdash;Sufferings from hunger&mdash;Prospect of the Immahah
+     Valley&mdash;The exhausted traveller
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much milder
+      than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper plains,
+      however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are subject in winter
+      to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty &ldquo;sierras,&rdquo; crowned
+      with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and streaks of intense cold
+      This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and his companions in their
+      progress westward. At the time when they left the Bannacks Snake River was
+      frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice became broken and floating; it
+      gradually disappeared, and the weather became warm and pleasant, as they
+      approached a tributary stream called the Little Wyer; and the soil, which
+      was generally of a watery clay, with occasional intervals of sand, was
+      soft to the tread of the horses. After a time, however, the mountains
+      approached and flanked the river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and
+      the current was once more icebound.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently
+      rising in the world, for they had &ldquo;horse to ride and weapon to wear,&rdquo; and
+      were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that
+      Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee
+      River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided
+      as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these
+      they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits
+      [sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that tribe
+      their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their
+      manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings; for
+      Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their hands,
+      and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable custom.
+      From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish, and an
+      excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had become too
+      weak for the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it is
+      true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on merrily,
+      considering themselves well provided for the journey, which could not be
+      of much longer duration.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which
+      flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives that
+      the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised them to
+      keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the snow.
+      Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the river, and
+      to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as had been predicted,
+      so that their horses once more had the benefit of tolerable pasturage.
+      Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging cheerily in the advance.
+      He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer and a beaver; but at night
+      found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted the occupant, upon which, with
+      the addition of a fish given him by the travellers, he made a hearty
+      supper, and retired to rest, filled with good cheer and good humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the river,
+      leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The river was
+      sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The Digger kept on
+      ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river in pursuit of game,
+      until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he stole off with him,
+      without the ceremony of leave-taking.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some
+      Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different
+      from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce
+      language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These
+      Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small
+      quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which they
+      ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was grand but
+      disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks of Immahah,
+      rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they stood: on the
+      other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the river, dashing
+      along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices, until lost in a
+      distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage landscape.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious
+      eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to discover
+      some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them to give up
+      the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night. Moving briskly
+      forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of deep
+      snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers as the
+      &ldquo;Grand Rond,&rdquo; which they found entirely free from snow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and
+      five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace, or
+      Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in
+      mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when the
+      elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by the
+      snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come to it in
+      the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces immense
+      quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is tinted by
+      its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a cloud.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning scaled
+      the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route than that
+      upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much reconnoitring,
+      determined to make their way once more to the river, and to travel upon
+      the ice when the banks should prove impassable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake
+      River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice. A
+      narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of
+      bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time,
+      they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length came to
+      where the river forced its way into the heart of the mountains, winding
+      between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose perpendicularly from
+      the water&rsquo;s edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy grandeur. Here difficulties
+      of all kinds beset their path. The snow was from two to three feet deep,
+      but soft and yielding, so that the horses had no foothold, but kept
+      plunging forward, straining themselves by perpetual efforts. Sometimes the
+      crags and promontories forced them upon the narrow riband of ice that
+      bordered the shore; sometimes they had to scramble over vast masses of
+      rock which had tumbled from the impending precipices; sometimes they had
+      to cross the stream upon the hazardous bridges of ice and snow, sinking to
+      the knee at every step; sometimes they had to scale slippery acclivities,
+      and to pass along narrow cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a
+      shouldering wall of rock on one side, a yawning precipice on the other,
+      where a single false step would have been fatal. In a lower and less
+      dangerous pass, two of their horses actually fell into the river; one was
+      saved with much difficulty, but the boldness of the shore prevented their
+      rescuing the other, and he was swept away by the rapid current.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and
+      dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to a
+      mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further
+      progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to
+      cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit, found
+      their path closed by insurmountable barriers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged
+      mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it.
+      They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep;
+      and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing, to
+      aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as the poor
+      animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy declivities. Thus,
+      after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant toil, amidst the
+      wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to reach the camping
+      ground, from which they had started in the morning, and for the first time
+      in the course of their rugged and perilous expedition, felt their hearts
+      quailing under their multiplied hardships.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night&rsquo;s sleep, put
+      them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as to
+      their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked a small
+      ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was determined to
+      scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which must lie
+      beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained. To kill
+      their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of the hides, and,
+      in these, commit themselves to the stream&mdash;a measure hazardous in the
+      extreme.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep and
+      cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling it was
+      by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed a
+      succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they wrought
+      their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag course,
+      climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after them; which
+      scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then dislodging
+      some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would roll down the
+      mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It was some time
+      after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the summit of the
+      mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds, which swept this
+      naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley beneath, so that
+      the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the dry grass which
+      remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the extreme, were fain
+      to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their journey was likely to be
+      prolonged much beyond the anticipated term.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at a
+      great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the mountain.
+      It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height, running
+      parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to lofty peaks,
+      but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines. This, in fact, was
+      a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the first adventurers to
+      Astoria experienced such hardships.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this
+      tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed
+      themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had
+      they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only to
+      the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend the
+      southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow, so as to
+      render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and horses
+      continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow lay in
+      such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down which the
+      horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was impeded by
+      tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in every
+      direction.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out. For
+      three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could scarcely
+      drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about to give out
+      from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him. Husbanding this
+      miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three days subsisted upon
+      the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the meat, it was packed and
+      preserved as long as they could do without it, not knowing how long they
+      might remain bewildered in these desolate regions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and
+      to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime,
+      the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the
+      scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately
+      below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling;
+      that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them
+      in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it
+      without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the
+      mountain ridge to the left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps;
+      and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of the
+      severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they
+      toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through
+      the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit,
+      where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side, they
+      were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and ravines.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost
+      ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as the
+      sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came to the
+      brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the Immahah
+      stretched out in smiling verdure below them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor, they
+      forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain,
+      dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them to
+      slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they reached
+      the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to sprout,
+      and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and repose,
+      heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which they had
+      just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian trails along the
+      margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them reason to believe
+      that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces in the neighborhood,
+      as it was within the accustomed range of that pacific and hospitable
+      tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and they
+      continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their steeds
+      would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the rest,
+      threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further. It was
+      in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and his replies
+      only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions, therefore,
+      encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched about for roots
+      with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then made a starveling
+      repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past dangers and
+      troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all were now at an
+      end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the morrow would
+      bring them into plentiful quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      31.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Progress in the valley&mdash;An Indian cavalier&mdash;The captain
+     falls into a lethargy&mdash;A Nez-Perce patriarch&mdash;Hospitable
+     treatment&mdash;The bald head&mdash;Bargaining&mdash;Value of an old plaid
+     cloak&mdash;The family horse&mdash;The cost of an Indian present
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      A TRANQUIL NIGHT&rsquo;S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down
+      traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set forward
+      on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within reach of
+      succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that they advanced
+      but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they should almost have
+      lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th of February)
+      fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst of winter,
+      exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for the last twenty
+      days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate labyrinths of the
+      snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy precipices, and nearly
+      starved with cold and hunger.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without seeing
+      a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about noon,
+      they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly toward
+      them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed, came to a
+      halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great earnestness,
+      seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made signs of peace,
+      and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him to approach. He
+      remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having satisfied himself
+      that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them. He was a fine,
+      haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted on a
+      high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was evident
+      that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe. His whole
+      deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt, perhaps, his
+      temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit of his steed,
+      to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their half-starved horses.
+      Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave them his hand, and, in
+      the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp, which was only a few
+      miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and plenty of horses, and would
+      cheerfully share his good things with them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a moment,
+      to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then, wheeling
+      round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon out of
+      sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a snail&rsquo;s
+      pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after the other.
+      Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and singular change of
+      feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his party, and of providing
+      against every emergency, had kept his mind upon the stretch, and his whole
+      system braced and excited. In no one instance had he flagged in spirit, or
+      felt disposed to succumb. Now, however, that all danger was over, and the
+      march of a few miles would bring them to repose and abundance, his
+      energies suddenly deserted him; and every faculty, mental and physical,
+      was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded two miles from the point where
+      he had had the interview with the Nez Perce chief, when he threw himself
+      upon the earth, without the power or will to move a muscle, or exert a
+      thought, and sank almost instantly into a profound and dreamless sleep.
+      His companions again came to a halt, and encamped beside him, and there
+      they passed the night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy
+      sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress. They
+      had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce tribe
+      came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them to their
+      camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into their
+      languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of the Nez
+      Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together, under the
+      patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He received them with
+      the hospitality of the golden age, and with something of the same kind of
+      fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them welcome, the only repast
+      he set before them consisted of roots. They could have wished for
+      something more hearty and substantial; but, for want of better, made a
+      voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast being over, the best
+      pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a most welcome luxury,
+      having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days before, among the
+      mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to
+      the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to
+      revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than
+      their masters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet,
+      inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper Nez
+      Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of expression,
+      and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he was well known among
+      them, by report, at least, from the constant interchange of visits and
+      messages between the two branches of the tribe. They at first addressed
+      him by his name; giving him his title of captain, with a French accent:
+      but they soon gave him a title of their own; which, as usual with Indian
+      titles, had a peculiar signification. In the case of the captain, it had
+      somewhat of a whimsical origin.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would occasionally
+      take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation in the
+      surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their recumbent
+      posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual exclamation of
+      astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a phenomenon very
+      surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know whether he had been
+      scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity from that belligerent
+      infliction. In a little while, he became known among them by an Indian
+      name, signifying &ldquo;the bald chief.&rdquo; &ldquo;A sobriquet,&rdquo; observes the captain,
+      &ldquo;for which I can find no parallel in history since the days of &lsquo;Charles
+      the Bald.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled with
+      tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In
+      approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond
+      anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still
+      haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen
+      appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight&rsquo;s fasting, at
+      length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged
+      some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however, were
+      slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited; but were
+      ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced excellent food.
+      At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of attaining the
+      much-coveted gratification.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling
+      companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the snows
+      and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to tarnish its
+      primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the admiration, and
+      inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws, to an extravagant
+      degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville, to convert this
+      rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired. There was a
+      momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and projected
+      indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was made, he says,
+      with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and sentiment might
+      have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was cut into numerous
+      strips. &ldquo;Of these,&rdquo; continues he, &ldquo;with the newly developed talent of a
+      man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a la Turque, and fanciful
+      head-gears of divers conformations. These, judiciously distributed among
+      such of the womenkind as seemed of most consequence and interest in the
+      eyes of the patres conscripti, brought us, in a little while, abundance of
+      dried salmon and deers&rsquo; hearts; on which we made a sumptuous supper.
+      Another, and a more satisfactory smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet
+      slumbers answering the peaceful invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in
+      that delicious rest, which is only won by toil and travail.&rdquo; As to Captain
+      Bonneville, he slept in the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had
+      evidently conceived a most disinterested affection for him; as was shown
+      on the following morning. The travellers, invigorated by a good supper,
+      and &ldquo;fresh from the bath of repose,&rdquo; were about to resume their journey,
+      when this affectionate old chief took the captain aside, to let him know
+      how much he loved him. As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give
+      him a fine horse, which would go further than words, and put his good will
+      beyond all question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a
+      beautiful young horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting,
+      to the place. Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of
+      friendship; but his experience in what is proverbially called &ldquo;Indian
+      giving,&rdquo; made him aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own
+      part, to prove that his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed
+      a handsome rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent
+      heart was evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign
+      of amity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship, the
+      captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when the
+      affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to him a
+      whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have passed
+      for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;is my wife; she
+      is a good wife&mdash;I love her very much.&mdash;She loves the horse&mdash;she
+      loves him a great deal&mdash;she will cry very much at losing him.&mdash;I
+      do not know how I shall comfort her&mdash;and that makes my heart very
+      sore.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old squaw,
+      and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain lecture?
+      He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the patriarch&rsquo;s
+      better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to put personal
+      vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity extinct? The
+      moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering and whining of
+      the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed the precious
+      baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of Endor, went off
+      with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she had been a perfect
+      Semiramis.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was in
+      the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward, and
+      presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky look.
+      &ldquo;This,&rdquo; said the venerable chief, &ldquo;is my son: he is very good; a great
+      horseman&mdash;he always took care of this very fine horse&mdash;he
+      brought him up from a colt, and made him what he is.&mdash;He is very fond
+      of this fine horse&mdash;he loves him like a brother&mdash;his heart will
+      be very heavy when this fine horse leaves the camp.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable
+      pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse? He
+      bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender stores.
+      No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young hopeful,
+      than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing in his
+      hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her
+      ear-bobs.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the
+      affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and, while
+      he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the rifle in the
+      other. &ldquo;This rifle,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;shall be my great medicine. I will hug it
+      to my heart&mdash;I will always love it, for the sake of my good friend,
+      the bald-headed chief.&mdash;But a rifle, by itself, is dumb&mdash;I
+      cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it
+      out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the
+      meat home to my hungry family, I would say&mdash;This was killed by the
+      rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine
+      horse.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished the
+      coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs to his
+      very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to get out of
+      all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the affectionate
+      old patriarch and his insinuating family.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      32.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Nez-Perce camp&mdash;A chief with a hard name&mdash;The Big Hearts of
+     the East&mdash;Hospitable treatment&mdash;The Indian guides&mdash;
+     Mysterious councils&mdash;The loquacious chief&mdash;Indian tomb&mdash;
+     Grand Indian reception&mdash;An Indian feast&mdash;Town-criers&mdash;
+     Honesty of the Nez-Perces&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s attempt at
+     healing.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three
+      companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay
+      over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On
+      the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as
+      they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals, they
+      descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small
+      encampment of Nez Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men
+      approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to
+      encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief named
+      Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict oftener
+      than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named chieftain
+      welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same hospitality and
+      loving kindness that he had experienced from his predecessor. He told the
+      captain he had often heard of the Americans and their generous deeds, and
+      that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez Perces) had always spoken of them
+      as the Big-hearted whites of the East, the very good friends of the Nez
+      Perces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of this
+      magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be involved
+      in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened, therefore,
+      to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how little there
+      was to be expected from him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the Upper
+      Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their arms around
+      them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had received such
+      good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins, the Lower Nez
+      Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as friends and
+      brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded a mule with
+      presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez Perces; but,
+      unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the snowy mountains;
+      and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into Snake River, and
+      been swept away by the rapid current. That instead, therefore, of arriving
+      among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light hearts and full hands,
+      they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and instead of making them
+      presents, must depend upon them even for food. &ldquo;But,&rdquo; concluded he, &ldquo;we
+      are going to the white men&rsquo;s fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and will soon
+      return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce friends like the true Big
+      Hearts of the East.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any
+      effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings which,
+      according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce tribe, he
+      certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on learning the
+      destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he urged the
+      captain to remain with them until the following day, when he would
+      accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all his people.
+      In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for travelling
+      provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not as an article
+      of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were hungry and in
+      need of food.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement. The
+      carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain
+      insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the
+      chieftain&rsquo;s family.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed their
+      journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide. Their route was
+      over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were slippery with ice
+      and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded, that they could
+      scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their foothold on the frozen
+      declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey, the old chief and the
+      guide were unremitting in their good offices, and continually on the alert
+      to select the best roads, and assist them through all difficulties.
+      Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be dependent on their Indian
+      friends for almost every thing, for they had lost their tobacco and pipes,
+      those great comforts of the trapper, and had but a few charges of powder
+      left, which it was necessary to husband for the purpose of lighting their
+      fires.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations
+      with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some
+      mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville could
+      not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual
+      sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from which
+      the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he attached a
+      little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he suffered him
+      to spin out his petty plans unmolested.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy counsellor,
+      the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the guide mounted
+      his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the chief resumed his
+      seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a pleasing but mystic
+      reverie.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the
+      Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the
+      guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference was
+      held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more inflated
+      than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh trails, and
+      various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there must be a
+      considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as his worthy
+      companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as it appeared
+      to be in some way connected with his secret operations, he asked no
+      questions, but patiently awaited the development of his mystery.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were bathing
+      in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a halt, and had
+      a long conversation with them, in the course of which he repeated to them
+      the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related to him. In fact, he
+      seems to have been a very sociable, communicative old man; by no means
+      afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged upon the Indians. On the
+      contrary, he was fond of long talks and long smokings, and evidently was
+      proud of his new friend, the bald-headed chief, and took a pleasure in
+      sounding his praises, and setting forth the power and glory of the Big
+      Hearts of the East.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing
+      friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward with
+      the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way,
+      however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very different
+      occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the river stood
+      an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with some emotion.
+      &ldquo;The big heart and the strong arm,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;lie buried beneath that
+      sod.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of the
+      tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war party of
+      Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy bore off
+      his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in this lonely
+      place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials characteristic of
+      their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered round the grave and
+      mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief; but the women and
+      children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations. &ldquo;For three days,&rdquo;
+       said the old man, &ldquo;we performed the solemn dances for the dead, and prayed
+      the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy in the land of brave
+      warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave fifteen of our best and
+      strongest horses, to serve him when he should arrive at the happy hunting
+      grounds; and having done all this, we returned sorrowfully to our homes.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up, and,
+      presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily out of
+      sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his
+      self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode. Turning
+      to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and informed him,
+      that behind it was a village governed by a little chief, whom he had
+      notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a party of the Big
+      Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive them in becoming
+      style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to salute them with a
+      discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of gunpowder that they might
+      return the salute in a manner correspondent to his dignity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the
+      whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the
+      most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the
+      whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank
+      were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated;
+      behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and
+      children.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of
+      firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted. The
+      chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective
+      characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each
+      filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor. Those
+      in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all had
+      given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief, according
+      to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his people advanced
+      whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence of the white men,
+      he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they would submissively
+      walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an inquiring look, he
+      would observe, &ldquo;he was a bad man,&rdquo; or something quite as concise, and
+      there was an end of the matter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable lodge
+      was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept constantly
+      supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and all their effects
+      were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were unsaddled, and turned
+      loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or
+      council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet,
+      was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that had
+      tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld not
+      merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk, and the
+      choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say how vigorously they
+      acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how unnecessary it was for
+      their hosts to practice the usual cramming principle of Indian
+      hospitality.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the same
+      curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information concerning
+      the United States, of which they knew little but what they derived through
+      their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is almost
+      exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. Captain
+      Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation, and the
+      importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was ably
+      seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name, who did
+      all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and
+      evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus set
+      forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after sentence
+      was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole village.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the
+      Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage
+      where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report
+      the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this kind,
+      viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to be
+      contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey accurate
+      information to the public mind than those circulated through the press.
+      The office of crier is generally filled by some old man, who is good for
+      little else. A village has generally several of these walking newspapers,
+      as they are termed by the whites, who go about proclaiming the news of the
+      day, giving notice of public councils, expeditions, dances, feasts, and
+      other ceremonials, and advertising anything lost. While Captain Bonneville
+      remained among the Nez Perces, if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of
+      similar value, was lost or mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the
+      lodge of the chief, and proclamation was made by one of their criers, for
+      the owner to come and claim his property.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering tribes
+      of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this tribe of
+      Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually been among
+      them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable, exorbitant in
+      their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain Bonneville, on the
+      contrary, who resided much among them, and had repeated opportunities of
+      ascertaining their real character, invariably speaks of them as kind and
+      hospitable, scrupulously honest, and remarkable, above all other Indians
+      that he had met with, for a strong feeling of religion. In fact, so
+      enthusiastic is he in their praise, that he pronounces them, all ignorant
+      and barbarous as they are by their condition, one of the purest hearted
+      people on the face of the earth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among
+      the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and
+      gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been
+      long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort of
+      the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation thus
+      accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As he had
+      arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something of a
+      physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge in the
+      healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently
+      successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that
+      report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that
+      effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at
+      relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg in
+      the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic affection.
+      This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the old woman with
+      a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to relieve her, at
+      the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his return; with
+      which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he presented the
+      captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the journey: a medical
+      fee which was thankfully accepted.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an owner
+      for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big Wyer.
+      The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen from him
+      some time previous, by some unknown thief. &ldquo;However,&rdquo; said the considerate
+      savage, &ldquo;you got him in fair trade&mdash;you are more in want of horses
+      than I am: keep him; he is yours&mdash;he is a good horse; use him well.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity,
+      which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain
+      Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more
+      impressed with the general excellence of their character.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      33.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Scenery of the Way-lee-way&mdash;A substitute for tobacco&mdash;
+     Sublime scenery of&mdash;Snake River&mdash;The garrulous old chief and
+     his cousin&mdash;A Nez-Perce meeting&mdash;A stolen skin&mdash;The
+     scapegoat dog&mdash;Mysterious conferences&mdash;The little chief&mdash;His
+     hospitality&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s account of the United States&mdash;His
+     healing skill
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the same Nez
+      Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important in choosing the
+      routes and resting places. He also continued to be accompanied by the
+      worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed bent upon doing the honors
+      of the country, and introducing him to every branch of his tribe. The
+      Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain Bonneville and his companions
+      were now travelling, is a considerable stream winding through a succession
+      of bold and beautiful scenes. Sometimes the landscape towered into bold
+      and mountainous heights that partook of sublimity; at other times, it
+      stretched along the water side in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful
+      undulating valleys.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez
+      Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who,
+      generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures; a
+      curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies of
+      the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be spokesman
+      of the party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
+      excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his
+      stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale
+      his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his pipe
+      into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus
+      manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long
+      colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its
+      mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more
+      reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At
+      times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like
+      gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning
+      chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes the
+      river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it roared
+      along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks were piled
+      in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another place, they
+      were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with green-award. The whole
+      of this wild and varied scenery was dominated by immense mountains rearing
+      their distant peaks into the clouds. &ldquo;The grandeur and originality of the
+      views, presented on every side,&rdquo; says Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;beggar both the
+      pencil and the pen. Nothing we had ever gazed upon in any other region
+      could for a moment compare in wild majesty and impressive sternness, with
+      the series of scenes which here at every turn astonished our senses, and
+      filled us with awe and delight.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the
+      accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the
+      memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake River
+      must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery of all
+      the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky Mountains,
+      to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward of six hundred
+      miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a volcanic region,
+      amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the traces of ancient
+      fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava and sandy deserts,
+      penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken into romantic and
+      often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal snows; and at other
+      times, careers through green and smiling meadows, and wide landscapes of
+      Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity, however, appear to be
+      its prevailing characteristics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a
+      considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief
+      halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn
+      their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from a
+      group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was
+      quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a
+      light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot
+      across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and
+      frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn. The
+      old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented Captain
+      Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to say, was no
+      less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The latter evinced
+      the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers, whence they came
+      whither they were going, the object of their journey, and the adventures
+      they had experienced. All these, of course, were ample and eloquently set
+      forth by the communicative old chief. To all his grandiloquent account of
+      the bald-headed chief and his countrymen, the Big Hearts of the East, his
+      cousin listened with great attention, and replied in the customary style
+      of Indian welcome. He then desired the party to await his return, and,
+      springing into his canoe, darted across the river. In a little while he
+      returned, bringing a most welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of
+      provisions for the road, declaring his intention of accompanying the
+      party. Having no horse, he mounted behind one of the men, observing that
+      he should procure a steed for himself on the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many miles
+      beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom Captain
+      Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence among the
+      Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In this
+      neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them with a
+      profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That night they
+      put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by several
+      warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old chief and
+      his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white men. The
+      heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at thus being
+      surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with more spirit and
+      vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect harmony and
+      good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the visitors took their
+      leave and recrossed the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez
+      Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to
+      throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social and
+      harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain&rsquo;s men, who happened
+      to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of collecting
+      curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the eyes of men
+      conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among the visitors
+      from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other, examined it
+      with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great medicine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off, the
+      precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it was
+      nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been
+      purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency of
+      their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over and
+      answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call with
+      all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea of their
+      being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted nation. All were
+      at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the invaluable skin,
+      when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the water fell upon an
+      unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He was a gallows-looking
+      dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who, take them in the mass,
+      are little better than a generation of vipers. Be that as it may, he was
+      instantly accused of having devoured the skin in question. A dog accused
+      is generally a dog condemned; and a dog condemned is generally a dog
+      executed. So was it in the present instance. The unfortunate cur was
+      arraigned; his thievish looks substantiated his guilt, and he was
+      condemned by his judges from across the river to be hanged. In vain the
+      Indians of the hut, with whom he was a great favorite, interceded in his
+      behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville and his comrades petitioned that his
+      life might be spared. His judges were inexorable. He was doubly guilty:
+      first, in having robbed their good friends, the Big Hearts of the East;
+      secondly, in having brought a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe.
+      He was, accordingly, swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death
+      more certain. The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post
+      mortem examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his
+      delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a shadow
+      of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all present,
+      during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the intestines
+      rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned, not a
+      particle of the skin was to be found&mdash;the dog had been unjustly
+      executed!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from
+      across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them to
+      the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the
+      utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their
+      lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin in a
+      dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was
+      entirely out of the question.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the
+      captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits of
+      the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time completely
+      dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just occurred. He
+      rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give way to a burst
+      of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head and a toss of the
+      hand toward the opposite shore&mdash;&ldquo;bad men, very bad men across the
+      river&rdquo;; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy cousin,
+      Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of acquiescence,
+      equivalent to an amen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and he
+      fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin, which
+      ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to his horse,
+      dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were drawing near
+      to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by an appellation
+      of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as the great chief.
+      The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their approach; a herald
+      appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to enable them to respond to
+      the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their approach to the village,
+      similar to that which had occurred at the village of the little chief. The
+      whole population appeared in the field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with
+      the customary regard to rank and dignity. Then came on the firing of
+      salutes, and the shaking of hands, in which last ceremonial every
+      individual, man, woman, and child, participated; for the Indians have an
+      idea that it is as indispensable an overture of friendship among the
+      whites as smoking of the pipe is among the red men. The travellers were
+      next ushered to the banquet, where all the choicest viands that the
+      village could furnish, were served up in rich profusion. They were
+      afterwards entertained by feats of agility and horseraces; indeed, their
+      visit to the village seemed the signal for complete festivity. In the
+      meantime, a skin lodge had been spread for their accommodation, their
+      horses and baggage were taken care of, and wood and water supplied in
+      abundance. At night, therefore, they retired to their quarters, to enjoy,
+      as they supposed, the repose of which they stood in need. No such thing,
+      however, was in store for them. A crowd of visitors awaited their
+      appearance, all eager for a smoke and a talk. The pipe was immediately
+      lighted, and constantly replenished and kept alive until the night was far
+      advanced. As usual, the utmost eagerness was evinced by the guests to
+      learn everything within the scope of their comprehension respecting the
+      Americans, for whom they professed the most fraternal regard. The captain,
+      in his replies, made use of familiar illustrations, calculated to strike
+      their minds, and impress them with such an idea of the might of his
+      nation, as would induce them to treat with kindness and respect all
+      stragglers that might fall in their path. To their inquiries as to the
+      numbers of the people of the United States, he assured them that they were
+      as countless as the blades of grass in the prairies, and that, great as
+      Snake River was, if they were all encamped upon its banks, they would
+      drink it dry in a single day. To these and similar statistics, they
+      listened with profound attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was,
+      indeed, a striking scene: the captain, with his hunter&rsquo;s dress and bald
+      head in the midst, holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like
+      so many statues, the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular
+      figures, all fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a
+      question propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a
+      movement of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and
+      delight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to
+      this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to
+      exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with
+      pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation. The
+      captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain. Her
+      father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and assured
+      the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the Americans
+      near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement. His kind
+      heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl, and his
+      sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about sixteen
+      years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature. The only
+      difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her malady, and
+      that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After considering
+      and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when in a maze of
+      vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his directions, the
+      girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used by the Nez Perces,
+      where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave her a dose of
+      gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to be wrapped in
+      buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and blankets. The
+      remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain, though
+      extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a bowl of
+      colt&rsquo;s head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on simple diet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the
+      recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a long
+      time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the
+      captain&rsquo;s horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that the
+      steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses, which he
+      presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad to see his
+      friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce to accompany
+      his guest to the next village, and &ldquo;to carry his talk&rdquo; concerning them;
+      and the two parties separated with mutual expressions of good will.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among the
+      Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as they
+      call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by water
+      poured slowly upon red-hot stones.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut&rsquo;s domains, the travellers left the
+      elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which has just
+      been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country, of such
+      fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the captain&rsquo;s
+      followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared that it
+      surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed what a
+      delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and teeming
+      soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a chief
+      named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and
+      hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued a
+      west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better
+      wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their
+      progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were
+      invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after
+      leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at
+      Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      34.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Fort Wallah-Wallah&mdash;Its commander&mdash;Indians in its
+     neighborhood&mdash;Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+     improvement&mdash;Religion&mdash;Code of laws&mdash;Range of the Lower Nez
+     Perces&mdash;Camash, and other roots&mdash;Nez&mdash;Perce horses&mdash;
+     Preparations for departure&mdash;Refusal of supplies&mdash;Departure&mdash;
+     A laggard and glutton
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, situated
+      just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the left bank
+      of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated merely for
+      defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or eight men;
+      and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune, an agent of
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its trade
+      on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of the
+      Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth of the
+      Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment from
+      Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from
+      Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of the
+      British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they have
+      always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders
+      themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as well as
+      by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and peltries
+      collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are a
+      degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and
+      tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed
+      Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the
+      Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had
+      evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their
+      peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however, the
+      principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The same
+      gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed with
+      scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to a great
+      extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the Christian
+      faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft, so venial a crime
+      among the Indians, had recently been punished with hanging, by sentence of
+      a chief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and
+      religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one of
+      the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an
+      intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty
+      years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained of
+      their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities. The
+      very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the prolonged
+      sojourns of Captain Bonneville.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and
+      other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver, elk,
+      deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these animals,
+      they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be well worth
+      transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among these is the
+      camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion, and said to be
+      really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root, about the size of a
+      walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour; together with the
+      jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by steaming them in the
+      ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they
+      catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are
+      their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed of
+      comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally clad in
+      deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all, they are
+      celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark, and then
+      suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These horses are
+      principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and long-winded. They
+      are brought in great numbers to the establishments of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, and sold for a mere trifle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who, if
+      not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the
+      gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They
+      invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post might
+      be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would trade
+      with Americans, in preference to any other people.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this neighborhood,
+      to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect information, and
+      establish connections that might be advantageous in the way of trade. The
+      delays, however, which he had experienced on his journey, obliged him to
+      shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as possible, so as to reach
+      the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed time. He had seen enough
+      to convince him that an American trade might be carried on with advantage
+      in this quarter; and he determined soon to return with a stronger party,
+      more completely fitted for the purpose.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to
+      purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference between being
+      treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy superintendent, who
+      had extended to him all the genial rites of hospitality, now suddenly
+      assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and observed that, however he
+      might feel disposed to serve him, personally, he felt bound by his duty to
+      the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, to do nothing which should facilitate or
+      encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of
+      the country. He endeavored to dissuade Captain Bonneville from returning
+      through the Blue Mountains; assuring him it would be extremely difficult
+      and dangerous, if not impracticable, at this season of the year; and
+      advised him to accompany Mr. Payette, a leader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, who was about to depart with a number of men, by a more
+      circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies to the company&rsquo;s agent,
+      resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain Bonneville, however, piqued
+      at his having refused to furnish him with supplies, and doubting the
+      sincerity of his advice, determined to return by the more direct route
+      through the mountains; though varying his course, in some respects, from
+      that by which he had come, in consequence of information gathered among
+      the neighboring Indians.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions, accompanied
+      by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the early part of
+      their course, they touched again at several of the Nez Perce villages,
+      where they had experienced such kind treatment on their way down. They
+      were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was done to cheer
+      them on their journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce, whose
+      society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and good will
+      they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the little
+      party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a huge feeder.
+      His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all labor, and
+      availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march, he always
+      lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking a way through
+      all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily jogging along
+      the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the evening
+      encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for the
+      horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the
+      wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing
+      away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of
+      gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He no
+      longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but
+      distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor and
+      duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his competitors&mdash;albeit,
+      experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never had they witnessed such
+      power of mastication, and such marvellous capacity of stomach, as in this
+      native and uncultivated gastronome. Having, by repeated and prolonged
+      assaults, at length completely gorged himself, he would wrap himself up
+      and lie with the torpor of an anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the
+      next repast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of surprise
+      and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too serious for a
+      joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he was regarded
+      askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to waste the
+      substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations they were
+      under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest; but he
+      proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these obligations,
+      by eating a receipt in full.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      35.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The uninvited guest&mdash;Free and easy manners&mdash;Salutary jokes&mdash;
+     A prodigal son&mdash;Exit of the glutton&mdash;A sudden change in
+     fortune&mdash;Danger of a visit to poor relations&mdash;Plucking of a
+     prosperous man&mdash;A vagabond toilet&mdash;A substitute for the very
+     fine horse&mdash;Hard travelling&mdash;The uninvited guest and the
+     patriarchal colt&mdash;A beggar on horseback&mdash;A catastrophe&mdash;Exit
+     of the merry vagabond
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the
+      hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty
+      supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest.
+      He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows, and
+      had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing with
+      an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the ground,
+      and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their mess,
+      helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left in the
+      liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran dinner
+      hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more knowingly. The
+      travellers were at first completely taken by surprise, and could not but
+      admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite made himself at
+      home among them. While they stared he went on, making the most of the good
+      cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted; and was soon elbow deep
+      in &ldquo;pot luck,&rdquo; and greased from the tip of his nose to the back of his
+      ears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed
+      at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his
+      tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish for
+      such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the
+      &ldquo;provant&rdquo; upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited him
+      to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on
+      eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole
+      countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his repast,
+      his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who, as usual,
+      was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the eye showed
+      either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his characteristics.
+      He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries; and cracked off two
+      or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt to prick up his ears,
+      and delighted all the company. From this time, the uninvited guest was
+      taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished; his careless, free and
+      easy air, to be considered singularly amusing; and in the end, he was
+      pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest companions and most
+      entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was the
+      simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention of
+      keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no objection;
+      and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the carcass of the
+      buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this time, he had so
+      completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by his first
+      appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the Nez Perce guide
+      undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next morning, at break of
+      day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the hills, nor was anything more
+      seen of him until a few minutes after the party had encamped for the
+      evening, when he again made his appearance, in his usual frank, careless
+      manner, and threw down the carcass of another noble deer, which he had
+      borne on his back for a considerable distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative
+      disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of his
+      history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village; living
+      a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and imperative
+      commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled from the
+      village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had betaken
+      himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a careless,
+      haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors; heedless of
+      the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present; and fearing no
+      lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the chase, and a fair
+      hunting ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his
+      eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville fitted
+      him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon became quite
+      attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal services he
+      performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that hitherto oppressed
+      the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had seemed so perfectly
+      insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by which the travellers had
+      endeavored to elbow him out of their society, could not withstand the
+      good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp wit of She-wee-she. He
+      evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat blinking like an owl in
+      daylight, when pestered by the flouts and peckings of mischievous birds.
+      At length his place was found vacant at meal-time; no one knew when he
+      went off, or whither he had gone, but he was seen no more, and the vast
+      surplus that remained when the repast was over, showed what a mighty
+      gormandizer had departed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily.
+      She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always
+      successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or on
+      the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of his
+      countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in good-humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the
+      Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she took
+      a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of worldly
+      prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly departed
+      in the morning, arrayed in hunter&rsquo;s style, and well appointed with
+      everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the
+      elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that
+      he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about to
+      give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what a
+      change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in the
+      evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail
+      between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was
+      born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a
+      fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed it
+      to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they
+      recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom they
+      had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather, they
+      could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and repeated
+      peals of laughter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined in
+      the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his reverse
+      of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however, thought proper
+      to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree of sternness, the
+      cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most natural and
+      self-complacent style imaginable, &ldquo;that he had been among his cousins, who
+      were very poor; they had been delighted to see him; still more delighted
+      with his good fortune; they had taken him to their arms; admired his
+      equipments; one had begged for this; another for that&rdquo;&mdash;in fine, what
+      with the poor devil&rsquo;s inherent heedlessness, and the real generosity of
+      his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded in stripping him of all
+      his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig leaf with which he had
+      returned to camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville
+      determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a salutary
+      lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in the
+      neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift for
+      himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give him
+      any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of his
+      lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin;
+      whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, so
+      that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South
+      American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together,
+      under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before
+      the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he
+      thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village of
+      Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who had
+      made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse. The old
+      man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual cordiality, and
+      his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing grateful recollections
+      of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus of friendly gratulation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting
+      family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate to
+      the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored him to
+      the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the invaluable
+      gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied with a fine
+      two years&rsquo; old colt in his stead, a substitution which he afterward
+      learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might have claimed as
+      a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims were made on
+      account of this colt. This donation may be regarded, therefore, as a
+      signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found that the animal
+      soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with
+      some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about to
+      traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in gloomy
+      forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth in the
+      passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as he proceeded.
+      He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very slowly, so as to
+      keep the horses in strength and spirit for the hard times they would have
+      to encounter. The captain surrendered the regulation of the march entirely
+      to his discretion, and pushed on in the advance, amusing himself with
+      hunting, so as generally to kill a deer or two in the course of the day,
+      and arriving, before the rest of the party, at the spot designated by the
+      guide for the evening&rsquo;s encampment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide,
+      accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn
+      by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of the
+      mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper
+      beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they
+      quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high
+      good-humor.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch&rsquo;s. The
+      second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the
+      rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part
+      of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard
+      exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery, the
+      patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to follow on
+      at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he was on his
+      back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The colt, unused to
+      such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing and rearing and
+      snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length, set off full speed over
+      the most dangerous ground. As the route led generally along the steep and
+      craggy sides of the hills, both horse and horseman were constantly in
+      danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth escape from deadly peril.
+      Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap savage. He stuck to the colt
+      like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down gullies; whooping and yelling with
+      the wildest glee. Never did beggar on horseback display more headlong
+      horsemanship. His companions followed him with their eyes, sometimes
+      laughing, sometimes holding in their breath at his vagaries, until they
+      saw the colt make a sudden plunge or start, and pitch his unlucky rider
+      headlong over a precipice. There was a general cry of horror, and all
+      hastened to the spot. They found the poor fellow lying among the rocks
+      below, sadly bruised and mangled. It was almost a miracle that he had
+      escaped with life. Even in this condition, his merry spirit was not
+      entirely quelled, and he summoned up a feeble laugh at the alarm and
+      anxiety of those who came to his relief. He was extricated from his rocky
+      bed, and a messenger dispatched to inform Captain Bonneville of the
+      accident. The latter returned with all speed, and encamped the party at
+      the first convenient spot. Here the wounded man was stretched upon buffalo
+      skins, and the captain, who officiated on all occasions as doctor and
+      surgeon to the party, proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one
+      was a long and deep gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling
+      for a needle and thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound,
+      admonishing the patient to submit to the operation with becoming
+      fortitude. His gayety was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a
+      forced smile; and, at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so
+      piteously, that the captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a
+      powerful dose of alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed
+      his heart; all the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes
+      riveted on the wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the
+      countenance, that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic
+      curl.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and
+      administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in
+      for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless
+      and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would be
+      so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the party;
+      nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion
+      favorable to his wishes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding
+      that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting to
+      use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several efforts
+      to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue forward; but at
+      length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that &ldquo;as he had but one
+      leg,&rdquo; it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the mountain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such
+      disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each one
+      making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse, which
+      Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting expressions of
+      good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old haunts;
+      doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy cousins.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      36.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The difficult mountain&mdash;A smoke and consultation&mdash;The
+     captain&rsquo;s speech&mdash;An icy turnpike&mdash;Danger of a false step&mdash;
+     Arrival on Snake River&mdash;Return to&mdash;Portneuf&mdash;Meeting of
+     comrades
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers
+      found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in quantity,
+      so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged, therefore, to beat
+      down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling on the icy surface of
+      the stream. At length they reached the place where they intended to scale
+      the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to the foot, were agreeably
+      surprised to find that the wind had drifted the snow from off the side, so
+      that they attained the summit with but little difficulty. Here they
+      encamped, with the intention of beating a track through the mountains. A
+      short experiment, however, obliged them to give up the attempt, the snow
+      lying in vast drifts, often higher than the horses&rsquo; heads.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to
+      reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the
+      rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about nine
+      miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed impracticable.
+      He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides, proceeded to
+      hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while they all
+      smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject matter before
+      them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in which the two
+      guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly cross the snows.
+      They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed on foot, and they
+      should take the horses back to the village, where they would be well taken
+      care of until Captain Bonneville should send for them. They urged this
+      advice with great earnestness; declaring that their chief would be
+      extremely angry, and treat them severely, should any of the horses of his
+      good friends, the white men, be lost, in crossing under their guidance;
+      and that, therefore, it was good they should not attempt it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with Indian
+      silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them in their
+      own style of language.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;My friends,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;I have seen the pass, and have listened to your
+      words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your way,
+      you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great
+      obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell, and
+      they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for the
+      present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he found
+      the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been surveying the
+      neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was at least a
+      hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused fresh spirit
+      in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to proceed. About
+      dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now suggested itself.
+      This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on them, and drag them
+      to the other side of the mountain, thus forming a road in the wet snow,
+      which, should it afterward freeze, would be sufficiently hard to bear the
+      horses. This plan was promptly put into execution; the sleds were
+      constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn backward and forward until the
+      road was beaten, when they desisted from their fatiguing labor. The night
+      turned out clear and cold, and by morning, their road was incrusted with
+      ice sufficiently strong for their purpose. They now set out on their icy
+      turnpike, and got on well enough, excepting that now and then a horse
+      would sidle out of the track, and immediately sink up to the neck. Then
+      came on toil and difficulty, and they would be obliged to haul up the
+      floundering animal with ropes. One, more unlucky than the rest, after
+      repeated falls, had to be abandoned in the snow. Notwithstanding these
+      repeated delays, they succeeded, before the sun had acquired sufficient
+      power to thaw the snow, in getting all the rest of their horses safely to
+      the other side of the mountain.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They had
+      now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with ice. It
+      was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun should melt
+      the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in the yielding snow.
+      They had a frightful warning of the danger of any movement while the sleet
+      remained. A wild young mare, in her restlessness, strayed to the edge of a
+      declivity. One slip was fatal to her; she lost her balance, careered with
+      headlong velocity down the slippery side of the mountain for more than two
+      thousand feet, and was dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers
+      afterward sought the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and
+      mangled in the most horrible manner.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the
+      ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them to
+      prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day they
+      succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then packing
+      all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more set out briskly
+      and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day succeeded in
+      getting to a grassy region.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the
+      mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and
+      needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return home.
+      This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their faithful
+      services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white friends, after
+      which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging many farewells and
+      kind wishes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the
+      mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found the
+      grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this neighborhood,
+      he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids of basaltes,
+      rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the
+      party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams.
+      After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people
+      were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions to
+      discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join them.
+      He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract of
+      country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he now
+      shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small hordes
+      of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon trout and
+      other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season in
+      fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated the
+      mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in the
+      vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company on the
+      preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the beginning
+      of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two months beyond
+      the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this have been broken
+      up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched scouts a few miles
+      above, to visit the old camping ground and search for signals of the
+      party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually have abandoned the
+      spot. They returned without being able to ascertain anything.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary to
+      make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches, therefore,
+      on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their baggage, and
+      then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as to kill a
+      couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined to husband
+      this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest they should
+      again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous hunting grounds.
+      Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they found that the wolves
+      had been at the caches, scratched up the contents, and scattered them in
+      every direction. They now constructed a more secure one, in which they
+      deposited their heaviest articles, and then descended Snake River again,
+      and encamped just above the American Falls. Here they proceeded to fortify
+      themselves, intending to remain here, and give their horses an opportunity
+      to recruit their strength with good pasturage, until it should be time to
+      set out for the annual rendezvous in Bear River valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the
+      river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by a
+      discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of their
+      own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the whole party
+      which he had left in the preceding month of December were encamped on
+      Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far above the
+      Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch, and in a little
+      while had the pleasure of finding himself once more surrounded by his
+      people, who greeted his return among them in the heartiest manner; for his
+      long-protracted absence had convinced them that he and his three
+      companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by
+      famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches at
+      Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and considered
+      themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the dangerous
+      neighborhood without sustaining any loss.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his men
+      was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such
+      feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was
+      wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in
+      particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia
+      was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game flavor
+      of the wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      37.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure for the rendezvous&mdash;A war party of Blackfeet&mdash;A
+     mock bustle&mdash;Sham fires at night&mdash;Warlike precautions&mdash;
+     Dangers of a night attack&mdash;A panic among horses&mdash;Cautious
+     march&mdash;The Beer Springs&mdash;A mock carousel&mdash;Skirmishing with
+     buffaloes&mdash;A buffalo bait&mdash;Arrival at the rendezvous&mdash;
+     Meeting of various bands
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke up the
+      encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free trappers,
+      half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in Bear River
+      valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon reached the
+      hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the march, he descried
+      from the brow of a hill, a war party of about sixty Blackfeet, on the
+      plain immediately below him. His situation was perilous; for the greater
+      part of his people were dispersed in various directions. Still, to betray
+      hesitation or fear would be to discover his actual weakness, and to invite
+      attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore, a belligerent tone; ordered the
+      squaws to lead the horses to a small grove of ashen trees, and unload and
+      tie them; and caused a great bustle to be made by his scanty handful; the
+      leaders riding hither and thither, and vociferating with all their might,
+      as if a numerous force was getting under way for an attack.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number
+      of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His
+      men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In
+      such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle
+      beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in case
+      of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at once, and
+      start up, completely armed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses, and
+      set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and
+      principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage
+      is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens
+      another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps
+      where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night alarm
+      of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have broken
+      loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain fast; the
+      howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of white men, and
+      red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and trampling of
+      fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up forms of men
+      and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make up one of the
+      wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way, sometimes, all the
+      horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be frightened off in a
+      single night.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no likelihood
+      that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp where there was
+      a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The captain, therefore,
+      continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions; throwing out scouts
+      in the advance, and on every rising ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already
+      mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by the
+      trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments every
+      spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand,
+      indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying jokes,
+      singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it seemed as
+      if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and cheated them
+      into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of the moment, they
+      were loud and extravagant in their commendations of &ldquo;the mountain tap&rdquo;;
+      elevating it above every beverage produced from hops or malt. It was a
+      singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region where everything is
+      strange and peculiar:&mdash;These groups of trappers, and hunters, and
+      Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances; their
+      boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry round
+      these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons, ready to
+      be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of representing
+      banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here were groups,
+      still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden onset of
+      Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to a furious
+      melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper&rsquo;s life complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance;
+      and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache
+      behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River;
+      amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which the
+      country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his repose
+      in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon him; then
+      rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot at him as he
+      started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal springs upon his
+      legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular process by which it is
+      effected. The horse rises first upon his fore legs; and the domestic cow,
+      upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo bounds at once from a couchant to
+      an erect position, with a celerity that baffles the eye. Though from his
+      bulk, and rolling gait, he does not appear to run with much swiftness;
+      yet, it takes a stanch horse to overtake him, when at full speed on level
+      ground; and a buffalo cow is still fleeter in her motion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable
+      horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind of
+      buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they prepared
+      for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on horseback, they
+      would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession, goading him to
+      make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the horse, they would
+      easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him, feathering him with
+      arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was bristled all over
+      like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs of exhaustion, and he
+      could no longer be provoked to make battle, they would dismount from their
+      horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing him by the tail, jerk him
+      from side to side, and drag him backward; until the frantic animal,
+      gathering fresh strength from fury, would break from them, and rush, with
+      flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing, upon any enemy in sight; but in a
+      little while, his transient excitement at an end, would pitch headlong on
+      the ground, and expire. The arrows were then plucked forth, the tongue cut
+      out and preserved as a dainty, and the carcass left a banquet for the
+      wolves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the 13th
+      of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or five
+      days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he found
+      extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that he was
+      obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore them. The
+      mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the west, are
+      marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is a beautiful
+      beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs, which advance
+      upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery. The water is
+      very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on
+      his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher
+      up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to
+      circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the
+      nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days; and
+      were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades, from whom
+      they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain Bonneville
+      was about the result of their journey, and the information they had
+      procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense curiosity
+      and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in the following
+      chapter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      38.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Plan of the Salt Lake expedition&mdash;Great sandy deserts&mdash;
+     Sufferings from thirst&mdash;Ogden&rsquo;s&mdash;River&mdash;Trails and smoke of
+     lurking savages&mdash;Thefts at night&mdash;A trapper&rsquo;s revenge&mdash;
+     Alarms of a guilty conscience&mdash;A murderous victory&mdash;
+     Californian mountains&mdash;Plains along the&mdash;Pacific&mdash;Arrival
+     at&mdash;Monterey&mdash;Account of the place and neighborhood&mdash;Lower&mdash;
+     California&mdash;Its extent&mdash;The Peninsula&mdash;Soil&mdash;Climate&mdash;
+     Production&mdash;Its settlements by the Jesuits&mdash;Their sway over
+     the Indians&mdash;Their expulsion&mdash;Ruins of a missionary
+     establishment&mdash;Sublime scenery&mdash;Upper California Missions&mdash;
+     Their power and policy&mdash;Resources of the country&mdash;Designs of
+     foreign nations
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the brigade
+      of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the Great Salt
+      Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping on all the
+      streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals and make
+      charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the surrounding
+      country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been tasked to fit
+      out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the southwest of the
+      mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet almost unknown;
+      being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed by the trapper, who
+      preferred those parts of the wilderness where the roaming herds of that
+      species of animal gave him comparatively an abundant and luxurious life.
+      Still it was said the deer, the elk, and the bighorn were to be found
+      there, so that, with a little diligence and economy, there was no danger
+      of lacking food. As a precaution, however, the party halted on Bear River
+      and hunted for a few days, until they had laid in a supply of dried
+      buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by the head waters of the
+      Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched on an immense sandy
+      desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the Great Salt Lake,
+      spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running into it. A desert
+      extended around them, and stretched to the southwest, as far as the eye
+      could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa in sterility. There
+      was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, nor running stream,
+      nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and rider were in danger
+      of perishing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned their
+      intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains, brightening
+      in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time, they came upon
+      a small stream leading directly towards these mountains. Having quenched
+      their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their weary horses for
+      a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually increased in size,
+      being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the mountains, it took a
+      sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers still kept along it,
+      trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which they subsisted for the
+      present, husbanding their dried meat for future necessities.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River,
+      but is more generally known as Ogden&rsquo;s River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an
+      enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who first
+      explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the travellers
+      were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers,
+      the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy people, prone to
+      keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently met with their
+      trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in various parts of the
+      vast landscape, so that they knew there were great numbers in the
+      neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be met with.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the Shoshokoes
+      were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was dogged by these
+      eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles were missing, yet
+      nothing could be seen of the marauders. What particularly exasperated the
+      hunters, was to have their traps stolen from the streams. One morning, a
+      trapper of a violent and savage character, discovering that his traps had
+      been carried off in the night, took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian
+      he should meet, innocent or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades
+      to camp, he beheld two unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank,
+      fishing. Advancing upon them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the
+      spot, and flung his bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled
+      and was suffered to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of
+      violence are regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed
+      ruffian enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment
+      this desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The
+      trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on
+      westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range of
+      mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain, on
+      the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising, as
+      before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now
+      converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the
+      scattered bands for vengeance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes in
+      considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however, suspected
+      them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd into and
+      get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and daring
+      conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads of the
+      poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive race,
+      unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons, excepting
+      for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains and along
+      the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other times on
+      roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat&rsquo;s-tail. They are of the
+      same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake River, and
+      whom he found so mild and inoffensive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making
+      their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round
+      their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise
+      them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying into
+      Ogden&rsquo;s River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number of
+      Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were there
+      with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their rifles, and
+      killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to a short
+      distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like wolves,
+      and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them in every
+      direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with terror;
+      neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors, that a
+      weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians throughout the
+      affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages had no hostile
+      intention, but had merely gathered together through motives of curiosity,
+      as others of their tribe had done when Captain Bonneville and his
+      companions passed along Snake River.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The trappers continued down Ogden&rsquo;s River, until they ascertained that it
+      lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent
+      discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of
+      California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the
+      shores of the Pacific.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains, the
+      peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual snow.
+      Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking of the
+      sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful
+      precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage mountains
+      were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved; at length,
+      they made their way through them, and came down upon the plains of New
+      California, a fertile region extending along the coast, with magnificent
+      forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked like stately parks.
+      Here they found deer and other game in abundance, and indemnified
+      themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the south, and passing
+      numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various streams, arrived at
+      the Spanish village and post of Monterey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in
+      latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage. The
+      surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys; the
+      soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and the
+      climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California,
+      extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30&rsquo; to 42 north, is
+      represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North
+      America.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great
+      peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone. It
+      is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes called
+      the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the West, the
+      Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called. The
+      peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many sandy
+      plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical cactus
+      growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water, however,
+      and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens everything
+      into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with the rich and
+      beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane and indigo
+      plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of North America.
+      There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the orange, the citron, the
+      pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the voluptuous climates of the
+      south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a generous wine. In the
+      interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty veins of gold are said,
+      likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful water are to be fished upon
+      the coast.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who,
+      certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved the
+      most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained and
+      maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military force, but
+      solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty, and entered into the
+      most amicable relations with the natives, then numbering from twenty-five
+      to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold upon their affections, and a
+      control over their minds, that effected a complete change in their
+      condition. They built eleven missionary establishments in the various
+      valleys of the peninsula, which formed rallying places for the surrounding
+      savages, where they gathered together as sheep into the fold, and
+      surrendered themselves and their consciences into the hands of these
+      spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are told, could exceed the implicit and
+      affectionate devotion of the Indian converts to the Jesuit fathers, and
+      the Catholic faith was disseminated widely through the wilderness. The
+      growing power and influence of the Jesuits in the New World at length
+      excited the jealousy of the Spanish government, and they were banished
+      from the colonies. The governor, who arrived at California to expel them,
+      and to take charge of the country, expected to find a rich and powerful
+      fraternity, with immense treasures hoarded in their missions, and an army
+      of Indians ready to defend them. On the contrary, he beheld a few
+      venerable silver-haired priests coming humbly forward to meet him,
+      followed by a throng of weeping, but submissive natives. The heart of the
+      governor, it is said, was so touched by this unexpected sight, that he
+      shed tears; but he had to execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied
+      to the place of their embarkation by their simple and affectionate
+      parishioners, who took leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the
+      latter abandoned their hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their
+      southern brethren, so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The
+      Franciscans immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the
+      Dominicans; but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the
+      missionary establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are
+      all in ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power
+      and prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the
+      chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley, about
+      half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the peninsula
+      being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn stone, one story
+      high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about fifty-five feet deep.
+      The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet high, with a vaulted roof
+      of stone, about two feet and a half in thickness. It is now abandoned and
+      desolate; the beautiful valley is without an inhabitant&mdash;not a human
+      being resides within thirty miles of the place!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller
+      passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak in
+      the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent prospect
+      unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark blue sea
+      beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the immense lava
+      plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an Italian effect
+      to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, and the sunsets
+      are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a slight and imperfect
+      sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Upper California extends from latitude 31 10&rsquo; to 42 on the Pacific, and
+      inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from
+      the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in
+      this province, most of which were established about fifty years since, and
+      are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting
+      sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who reside on the
+      lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has fifteen miles
+      square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots, proportioned to
+      the number of Indian converts attached to the mission. Some are enclosed
+      with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets, composed of rows of
+      huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances whitewashed and roofed
+      with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior, beyond the reach of all
+      military protection, and dependent entirely on the good will of the
+      natives, which never fails them. They have made considerable progress in
+      teaching the Indians the useful arts. There are native tanners,
+      shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters, and other artificers
+      attached to each establishment. Others are taught husbandry, and the
+      rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card and spin wool, weave,
+      and perform the other duties allotted to their sex in civilized life. No
+      social intercourse is allowed between the unmarried of the opposite sexes
+      after working hours; and at night they are locked up in separate
+      apartments, and the keys delivered to the priests.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are
+      entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for the
+      support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under their
+      control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the missions,
+      and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might be produced to
+      an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there a sufficient market
+      for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the missions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former may
+      be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an inferior
+      breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable qualities,
+      cost from seven to ten dollars.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San
+      Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of
+      Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port of
+      San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place. The
+      entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole
+      navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take their
+      rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run through
+      a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves into the
+      harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for ship-building. In
+      a word, this favored port combines advantages which not only fit it for a
+      grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of being made the dominant
+      military post of these seas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value
+      of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The
+      Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already
+      encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the
+      port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys have
+      likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we have
+      little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and, until
+      recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources of
+      wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its
+      inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches; they
+      have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast interior
+      that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and industry
+      to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor to prosecute
+      that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a country into
+      profitable action.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      39.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Gay life at Monterey&mdash;Mexican horsemen&mdash;A bold dragoon&mdash;Use
+     of the lasso&mdash;Vaqueros&mdash;Noosing a bear&mdash;Fight between a bull
+     and a bear&mdash;Departure from Monterey&mdash;Indian horse stealers&mdash;
+     Outrages committed by the travellers&mdash;Indignation of Captain
+     Bonneville
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the
+      inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered
+      extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When
+      they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests
+      at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be
+      their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted to
+      kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze the
+      country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners. They
+      attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of their
+      expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not belong to
+      them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool&rsquo;s paradise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the
+      Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this
+      country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of
+      California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are
+      fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild
+      horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of
+      the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the
+      equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero of
+      Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed in a
+      round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches,
+      unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer
+      skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel of
+      his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round the
+      lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries a
+      bull&rsquo;s hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before and
+      behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish fashion,
+      and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle at his
+      heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself the glory
+      of California, and the terror of the universe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that is
+      to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are
+      expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to
+      Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come,
+      originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral people
+      of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the army of Xerxes.
+      By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of purposes; and among
+      others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting, they cast the noose around
+      a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The vaqueros, or Indian cattle
+      drivers, have also learned the use of the laso from the Spaniards; and
+      employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by throwing it round their horns.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite,
+      though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull. For
+      this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood, frequented
+      by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide themselves in the
+      vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As soon as one, fit
+      for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out, and with the laso,
+      dexterously noose him by either leg. After dragging him at full speed
+      until he is fatigued, they secure him more effectually; and tying him on
+      the carcass of the bullock, draw him in triumph to the scene of action. By
+      this time, he is exasperated to such frenzy, that they are sometimes
+      obliged to throw cold water on him, to moderate his fury; and dangerous
+      would it be, for horse and rider, were he, while in this paroxysm, to
+      break his bonds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated
+      in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose in
+      the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly; and
+      always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is, by his
+      previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring of the
+      bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to this most
+      sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony. In his heat and
+      fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly clutched by the
+      bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge antagonist; and then
+      dispatches him without difficulty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with
+      bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being
+      considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying,
+      but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party set
+      out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing their
+      steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern extremity,
+      and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the sandy plains
+      south of Ogden&rsquo;s River; in traversing which, they again suffered,
+      grievously, for want of water.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in
+      pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages of
+      this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and armed only
+      with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the Spaniards not
+      to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult, with their blunt
+      shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they occasionally supply
+      themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish horses. Driving them
+      stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they slaughter them without
+      difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions. Some they carry off to
+      trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the Spanish horses pass from
+      hand to hand among the Indians, until they even find their way across the
+      Rocky Mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders;
+      but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and
+      wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers, and
+      proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey
+      through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to
+      have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest
+      outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the light
+      of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them with the
+      sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for the
+      infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they were
+      guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them
+      without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their
+      unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with their
+      lasos, and then dragging them to death!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at least,
+      such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect; for he
+      was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so indignant at the
+      atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust and horror, from
+      the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch law of the wilderness,
+      and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their own lasos, it would but have
+      been a well-merited and salutary act of retributive justice. The failure
+      of this expedition was a blow to his pride, and a still greater blow to
+      his purse. The Great Salt Lake still remained unexplored; at the same
+      time, the means which had been furnished so liberally to fit out this
+      favorite expedition, had all been squandered at Monterey; and the
+      peltries, also, which had been collected on the way. He would have but
+      scanty returns, therefore, to make this year, to his associates in the
+      United States; and there was great danger of their becoming disheartened,
+      and abandoning the enterprise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0041" id="link2H_4_0041">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      40.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Traveller&rsquo;s tales&mdash;Indian lurkers&mdash;Prognostics of Buckeye
+     Signs and portents&mdash;The medicine wolf&mdash;An alarm&mdash;An ambush
+     The captured provant&mdash;Triumph of Buckeye&mdash;Arrival of
+     supplies Grand carouse&mdash;Arrangements for the year&mdash;Mr. Wyeth
+     and his new-levied band.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses of
+      the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on the
+      contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the camp.
+      The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among the
+      hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and bull-fights
+      especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had another
+      expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would have been to
+      restrain a general eagerness to volunteer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by
+      various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was
+      evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march, had
+      dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep his
+      camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline among
+      trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of the
+      hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up
+      caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs
+      and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white
+      comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans, or
+      medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the howling or
+      barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven by the larger
+      wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by the hunters,
+      follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp. Here the smell of
+      the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze, keeps them hovering
+      about the neighborhood; scenting every blast, turning up their noses like
+      hungry hounds, and testifying their pinching hunger by long whining howls
+      and impatient barkings. These are interpreted by the superstitious Indians
+      into warnings that strangers are at hand; and one accidental coincidence,
+      like the chance fulfillment of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to
+      cover a thousand failures. This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is,
+      therefore, called among Indians the &ldquo;medicine wolf;&rdquo; and such was one of
+      Buckeye&rsquo;s infallible oracles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy
+      countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from
+      mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not
+      appear. &ldquo;Danger,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;was lurking in their path, and there would be
+      some fighting before sunset.&rdquo; He was bantered for his prophecy, which was
+      attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by bad
+      dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in pursuit
+      of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat they should
+      procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came clattering at
+      full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet! Blackfeet! Every
+      one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the alarm. It appeared
+      that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely, leading their mule
+      well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed close by a small
+      stream overhung with trees, about two miles from the camp. Suddenly a
+      party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the thickets, sprang up with a
+      fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the hunters. The latter
+      immediately threw themselves flat on their horses, put them to their
+      speed, and never paused to look behind, until they found themselves in
+      camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound; but the mule, with all
+      the &ldquo;provant,&rdquo; had fallen into the hands of the enemy This was a loss, as
+      well as an insult, not to be borne. Every man sprang to horse, and with
+      rifle in hand, galloped off to punish the Blackfeet, and rescue the
+      buffalo beef. They came too late; the marauders were off, and all that
+      they found of their mule was the dents of his hoofs, as he had been
+      conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his savory cargo to the hills, to
+      furnish the scampering savages with a banquet of roast meat at the expense
+      of the white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more
+      grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by
+      his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars of
+      the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then
+      pointing to the west, &ldquo;the sun has not yet set,&rdquo; said he: &ldquo;Buckeye did not
+      dream like a fool!&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak, and
+      were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to mind,
+      also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions made at
+      various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious credulity,
+      began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how natural it
+      was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction verified in
+      the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a lurking foe.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The various bands of Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s company had now been assembled
+      for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting, and
+      frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth merrymaking,
+      which invariably take place on these occasions. Their horses, as well as
+      themselves, had recovered from past famine and fatigue, and were again fit
+      for active service; and an impatience began to manifest itself among the
+      men once more to take the field, and set off on some wandering expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a
+      supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active
+      leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in
+      skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year&rsquo;s collection of
+      peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of
+      his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual revel. A
+      grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers; drinking,
+      dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting. Alcohol, which,
+      from its portable qualities, containing the greatest quantity of fiery
+      spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the
+      mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these carousals, and is dealt
+      out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When inflamed by this fiery
+      beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks and gambols, and sometimes burn
+      all their clothes in their drunken bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one
+      of these riotous revels, presents a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes,
+      broken heads, lack-lustre visages. Many of the trappers have squandered in
+      one drunken frolic the hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt,
+      and must toil on to pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep
+      draught of pleasure, and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for
+      hardship and hard work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and
+      topped off with an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless
+      trapper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and
+      Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed
+      to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year.
+      Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the
+      Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills,
+      and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter
+      quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He intended
+      to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the lower part of the
+      Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the Multnomah; after
+      wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with those tribes,
+      among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would return in the
+      spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and his party in the
+      month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where he expected to
+      receive his annual supplies from the States.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the
+      contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by
+      noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings.
+      Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July, on
+      their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that
+      Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who had
+      parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn, to
+      descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new
+      levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the
+      banks of the Columbia.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this &ldquo;eastern man,&rdquo;
+       and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his
+      movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with the
+      reader&rsquo;s permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his camp and
+      saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few hundred miles in
+      distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch ourselves with Wyeth in
+      his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage will take us many
+      hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering rivers; yet such is the
+      magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring the reader safe to Bear
+      River Valley, by the time the last horse is saddled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0042" id="link2H_4_0042">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      41.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A voyage in a bull boat.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, as
+      the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of the rapids
+      of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of Campbell and
+      Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo skins, stretched on
+      a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid with elk tallow and
+      ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five feet six inches wide,
+      sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew about a foot and a half
+      of water-a depth too great for these upper rivers, which abound with
+      shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of two half-breeds, who claimed
+      to be white men, though a mixture of the French creole and the Shawnee and
+      Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover, to be thorough mountaineers, and
+      first-rate hunters&mdash;the common boast of these vagabonds of the
+      wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce lad of eighteen years of
+      age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great aim, like all Indian
+      servants, was to do as little work as possible; there was, moreover, a
+      half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son of a Hudson&rsquo;s Bay trader
+      by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with Wyeth to see the world and
+      complete his education. Add to these, Mr. Milton Sublette, who went as
+      passenger, and we have the crew of the little bull boat complete.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet through
+      countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to navigate
+      these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running on snags
+      and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells with which
+      these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest streams; and
+      it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these boats will endure, and
+      what vicissitudes they will live through. Their duration, however, is but
+      limited; they require frequently to be hauled out of the water and dried,
+      to prevent the hides from becoming water-soaked; and they eventually rot
+      and go to pieces.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about
+      five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally
+      alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled
+      occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs and
+      promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands. Beyond
+      the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat
+      experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his attention
+      and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags of sunken
+      trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where the river
+      branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and
+      occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were
+      passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in
+      reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable
+      foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly promenading
+      along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as they glided
+      by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying on the ground,
+      like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as these, a perfect
+      solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign of human habitation; for
+      the Crows, as we have already shown, are a wandering people, a race of
+      hunters and warriors, who live in tents and on horseback, and are
+      continually on the move. At night they landed, hauled up their boat to
+      dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing fire. Then, as it was the
+      first evening of their voyage, they indulged in a regale, relishing their
+      buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after which, they slept soundly,
+      without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early in the morning, they again
+      launched the boat and committed themselves to the stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence,
+      excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore,
+      and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried some
+      persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by calculation,
+      at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the American Fur
+      Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A nearer
+      approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from the rest,
+      they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main force of the
+      Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several chiefs, were
+      but about two or three miles below, on their way up along the river. This
+      was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible, and the river
+      afforded no hiding place. They continued forward, therefore, trusting
+      that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows might refrain from any
+      depredations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first
+      band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with
+      guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made a
+      wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their accustomed
+      dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band of Crow
+      cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in height, lithe
+      and active, with hawks&rsquo; eyes and Roman noses. The latter feature is common
+      to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky Mountains; those on the
+      western side have generally straight or flat noses.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the river,
+      at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was perceived,
+      therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and, we presume, in no
+      very choice language; for, among their other accomplishments, the Crows
+      are famed for possessing a Billingsgate vocabulary of unrivalled opulence,
+      and for being by no means sparing of it whenever an occasion offers.
+      Indeed, though Indians are generally very lofty, rhetorical, and
+      figurative in their language at all great talks, and high ceremonials,
+      yet, if trappers and traders may be believed, they are the most unsavory
+      vagabonds in their ordinary colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a
+      spade a spade; and when they once undertake to call hard names, the famous
+      pot and kettle, of vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them
+      for scurrility of epithet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the
+      launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with the
+      best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was
+      Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have
+      already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse
+      between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good
+      presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too,
+      thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow
+      fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a still
+      greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his own with
+      surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step among the
+      crowd.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do
+      but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez
+      Perce&rsquo;s scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped up
+      and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped
+      himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that Wyeth
+      and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of these
+      officious Crows before they were entirely plucked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the second
+      band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of passing
+      them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns at the
+      boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the stream,
+      and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth threw a cord
+      to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be drawn to the
+      shore.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his
+      people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most of
+      their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity of the
+      American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good prize of
+      the bull boat and all its contents.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of
+      mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in the
+      autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects;
+      hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their
+      trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow
+      country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by
+      some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of their
+      rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their competition
+      was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a great object of
+      rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the Crows in their
+      depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent chiefly on robbing
+      the parties of their traps and horses, thereby disabling them from
+      prosecuting their hunting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were pushing
+      their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those of the
+      American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are speaking,
+      Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel boat, laden
+      with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this eager rivalship
+      being carried to extremes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds of
+      dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the river
+      and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this stream,
+      they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank, about three
+      miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld a party of
+      thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be Blackfeet. The width
+      of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient distance, and they soon
+      landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere fortification against Indians; being
+      a stockade of about one hundred and thirty feet square, with two bastions
+      at the extreme corners. M&rsquo;Tulloch, an agent of the American Company, was
+      stationed there with twenty men; two boats of fifteen tons burden were
+      lying here; but at certain seasons of the year a steamboat can come up to
+      the fort.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their
+      appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token of
+      amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly received
+      at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been engaged, the year
+      previously, in the battle at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole, and a fierce-looking set of
+      fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very much resembling the
+      Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand, to make peace with the
+      Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to overtake them. Wyeth
+      predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he had heard the Crows
+      denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two of their warriors who
+      had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty of peace. It is probable,
+      however, that this pacific errand was all a pretence, and that the real
+      object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang about the skirts of the Crow
+      band, steal their horses, and take the scalps of stragglers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a
+      quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he once
+      more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone, which
+      inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial bottoms,
+      fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood, and interrupted
+      occasionally by &ldquo;bluffs&rdquo; of sandstone. The current occasionally brings
+      down fragments of granite and porphyry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among the
+      trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want of
+      provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time, a party of
+      Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all speed, to the
+      opposite side of the river.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was immediately
+      for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs of dissatisfaction
+      in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as trenching upon their
+      province, and meddling with things quite above his capacity; for these
+      veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly pragmatical, on points of
+      venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their superiority; looking down
+      with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners. The two worthies,
+      therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time returned
+      empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their guns; two
+      miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their picking and
+      hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great boasters of the
+      wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots, and fortunate it
+      is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the blame.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on a
+      prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth, and
+      again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing went
+      off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing his dinner
+      if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand, therefore, and
+      went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned laden with
+      buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular hunters, who
+      were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made
+      under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece of
+      meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before it; in
+      a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters gradually
+      recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard their old flint
+      guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and boasted more than
+      ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they had guns that never
+      missed fire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their
+      repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on their
+      way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they hoisted
+      whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the stream.
+      Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and land,
+      with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped on
+      islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a dangerous
+      neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving their fire
+      burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making no fire at
+      their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night with the
+      current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept. in such
+      case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the following day to
+      dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was gradually getting
+      water-soaked and rotten.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating down
+      these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these elevated
+      regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened the
+      magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of the
+      waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary howl,
+      or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and bellowing
+      of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the ear with an
+      effect unknown in the daytime.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification when
+      they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding swiftly
+      round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them gave the
+      alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and every one
+      caught up his rifle. &ldquo;Where are they?&rdquo; cried Wyeth.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;There&mdash;there! riding on horseback!&rdquo; cried one of the hunters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Yes; with white scarfs on!&rdquo; cried the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but two
+      bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and seeming,
+      from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an opposite
+      direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans, who prided
+      themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight, produced a hearty
+      laugh at their expense, and put an end to their vauntings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream;
+      its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow clay
+      color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour, with
+      occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed them
+      all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places
+      precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region
+      abounding with buffalo&mdash;that ever-journeying animal, which moves in
+      countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing
+      plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming
+      rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some
+      traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at
+      certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit
+      the remotest shores.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths and
+      highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest passes
+      of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers. When once
+      a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward, regardless of
+      all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving mass behind. At
+      such times they will break through a camp, trampling down everything in
+      their course.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these
+      buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long
+      asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and
+      the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had just
+      time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the
+      opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they
+      moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the
+      column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold this
+      countless throng making their way across the river, blowing, and
+      bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and continuous
+      column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the waters of which
+      rise and rush over their backs, or between their squadrons. The roaring
+      and rushing sound of one of these vast herds crossing a river, may
+      sometimes in a still night be heard for miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many buffaloes
+      as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their havoc; especially
+      among scattered herds, that came swimming near the boat. On one occasion,
+      an old buffalo bull approached so near that the half-breeds must fain try
+      to noose him as they would a wild horse. The noose was successfully thrown
+      around his head, and secured him by the horns, and they now promised
+      themselves ample sport. The buffalo made prodigious turmoil in the water,
+      bellowing, and blowing, and floundering; and they all floated down the
+      stream together. At length he found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to
+      his heels, whirled the boat after him like a whale when harpooned; so that
+      the hunters were obliged to cast off their rope, with which strange
+      head-gear the venerable bull made off to the prairies.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew,
+      into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above
+      the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the
+      distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country. It
+      was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet square,
+      pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably entertained
+      by Mr. M&rsquo;Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him three days,
+      enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and cheese, for the
+      fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it had no garden. The
+      atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be too dry for the culture
+      of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down the Yellowstone, had met
+      with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and had observed ash and elm
+      trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be incompatible with gardening.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men. This
+      was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot warrior.
+      It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth murdered the year
+      previously, at Jackson&rsquo;s Hole, by the Blackfeet, and whose bones had been
+      subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This flask had either been
+      passed from hand to hand of the youth, or, perhaps, had been brought to
+      the fort by the very savage who slew him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the
+      broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up, and a
+      canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the Blackfeet,
+      was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his sail, and
+      bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union, turned his
+      prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a
+      large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William
+      Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition
+      to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they were
+      treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a social
+      evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially the
+      memorable fight at Pierre&rsquo;s Hole.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the canoe,
+      and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the
+      fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on his
+      course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever voyaged on
+      the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the stream, without
+      any chance of missing the way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and
+      supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with the
+      current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and serene;
+      the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the commencement
+      of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the night the canoe
+      struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the rush and roar of
+      the wild waters, which broke around her. They were all obliged to jump
+      overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was accomplished with much
+      difficulty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at
+      different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and
+      was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed
+      hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising to
+      entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him. Their
+      only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before they
+      could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until he was
+      fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled forward
+      with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him in the
+      rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the cord and
+      slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles. There was
+      nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however, than to beat a
+      retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned suddenly round and
+      made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous show of teeth. The
+      affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle off. Scarce had they
+      turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous claws on the gunwale, and
+      attempted to get on board. The canoe was nearly overturned, and a deluge
+      of water came pouring over the gunwale. All was clamor, terror, and
+      confusion. Every one bawled out&mdash;the bear roared and snarled&mdash;one
+      caught up a gun; but water had rendered it useless. Others handled their
+      paddles more effectually, and beating old Bruin about the head and claws,
+      obliged him to relinquish his hold. They now plied their paddles with
+      might and main, the bear made the best of his way to shore, and so ended
+      the second exploit of the noose; the hunters determined to have no more
+      naval contests with grizzly bears.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they were
+      approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less
+      dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted
+      quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he
+      supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed his
+      voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at midday,
+      to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters mounted a
+      high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his eye round, when
+      he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the river. Crouching
+      down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he had seen. On further
+      reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one lodges; and from the
+      number of horses, computed that there must be nearly a hundred Indians
+      encamped there. They now drew their boat, with all speed and caution, into
+      a thicket of water willows, and remained closely concealed all day. As
+      soon as the night closed in they re-embarked. The moon would rise early;
+      so that they had but about two hours of darkness to get past the camp. The
+      night, however, was cloudy, with a blustering wind. Silently, and with
+      muffled oars, they glided down the river, keeping close under the shore
+      opposite to the camp; watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark
+      forms passing to and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of
+      land, they found themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the
+      river. It appeared that not more than one half of the band had crossed.
+      They were within a few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages&mdash;some
+      standing, some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some
+      lodges were set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare
+      of the fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the
+      surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly
+      came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked; but
+      the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth instantly
+      sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it struck upon a
+      sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying situation; for he
+      was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle range of both. All hands
+      jumped out into the water, and tried to get the boat off; but as no one
+      dared to give the word, they could not pull together, and their labor was
+      in vain. In this way they labored for a long time; until Wyeth thought of
+      giving a signal for a general heave, by lifting his hat. The expedient
+      succeeded. They launched their canoe again into deep water, and getting
+      in, had the delight of seeing the camp fires of the savages soon fading in
+      the distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond
+      all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in
+      carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm
+      night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the night,
+      taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night was
+      occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse lowing of
+      the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching of the small
+      ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike sound of the
+      swan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds,
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in extreme
+      danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having continued
+      to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under a great snag,
+      or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These caught the mast,
+      while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream, and began to fill
+      with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but cutting away the mast.
+      She then drove down the stream, but left one of the unlucky half-breeds
+      clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole. It was necessary to run in
+      shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies and to attain some distance
+      above the snag, when they launched forth again into the stream and floated
+      down with it to his rescue.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of a
+      months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in the
+      course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the rival
+      fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe. Neither
+      shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as the
+      voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of
+      latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry and
+      basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the
+      characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still
+      more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession of
+      latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the frozen
+      regions to the tropics.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the rivers,
+      on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of the
+      western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct the
+      voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself in a
+      stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from river to
+      river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he might have kept
+      on upward of two thousand miles, until his little bark should drift into
+      the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at Cantonment Leavenworth,
+      the frontier post of the United States; where he arrived on the 27th of
+      September.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed
+      boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were hailed
+      by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what appeared
+      to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck Baptiste with
+      such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy at the top of
+      his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not Wyeth assured
+      him of his safety. When they underwent the operation of the lancet, the
+      doctor&rsquo;s wife and another lady were present; both beautiful women. They
+      were the first white women that they had seen, and they could not keep
+      their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat, they recounted to their
+      companions all that they had observed at the fort; but were especially
+      eloquent about the white squaws, who, they said, were white as snow, and
+      more beautiful than any human being they had ever beheld.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will
+      simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in
+      organizing an association under the name of &ldquo;The Columbia River Fishing
+      and Trading Company,&rdquo; for his original objects of a salmon fishery and a
+      trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the
+      Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at
+      the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom
+      were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the
+      wilderness than his first band of &ldquo;down-easters.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left,
+      making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0044" id="link2H_4_0044">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      42.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia&mdash;Advance of
+     Wyeth&mdash;Efforts to keep the lead&mdash;Hudson&rsquo;s Bay party&mdash;A
+     junketing&mdash;A delectable beverage&mdash;Honey and alcohol&mdash;High
+     carousing&mdash;The Canadian &ldquo;bon vivant&rdquo;&mdash;A cache&mdash;A rapid move
+     Wyeth and his plans&mdash;His travelling companions&mdash;Buffalo
+     hunting More conviviality&mdash;An interruption.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second visit
+      to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He
+      travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July a
+      scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in the
+      rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle in the
+      camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to secure
+      provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden to travel
+      fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive all
+      superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of the
+      earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two miles
+      further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line of
+      horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and
+      encamped close by.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company,
+      under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders, who,
+      with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are employed to
+      follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to another, and buy up
+      their peltries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, the
+      captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening
+      regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in
+      these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon made,
+      that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a midsummer
+      banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was abundance of
+      such hunters&rsquo; fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it was all discussed
+      with mountain appetites. They talked over all the events of their late
+      campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been unlucky in some of his
+      transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy. Captain Bonneville
+      remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had no juice of the
+      grape to keep it down.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A man&rsquo;s wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a thought
+      suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable beverage.
+      Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted. This he filled up
+      with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous ingredients together.
+      The glorious results may readily be imagined; a happy compound of strength
+      and sweetness, enough to soothe the most ruffled temper and unsettle the
+      most solid understanding.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first deep
+      draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the second
+      elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon companion; as
+      all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became glorious; talked
+      over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings with Indian braves, his
+      loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old French ditties, and
+      Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang louder and louder;
+      until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety, he gradually declined,
+      and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground. After a long nap he again
+      raised his head, imbibed another potation of the &ldquo;sweet and strong,&rdquo;
+       flashed up with another slight blaze of French gayety, and again fell
+      asleep.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and
+      sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and
+      calling to mind the captain&rsquo;s dulcet compound, with many a retch and
+      spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly
+      and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and that he
+      had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless and woebegone
+      was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march without him; the
+      captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after part of the day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men proceeded to
+      construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the party of
+      Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity to take the
+      road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being lightened of a great
+      part of their burdens, were able to move with celerity. As to the worthy
+      convive of the preceding evening, he was carefully gathered up from the
+      hunter&rsquo;s couch on which he lay, repentant and supine, and, being packed
+      upon one of the horses, was hurried forward with the convoy, groaning and
+      ejaculating at every jolt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of his
+      party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly and
+      courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes since
+      they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his intention
+      of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the Portneuf, and
+      leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to trade with the
+      neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this measure, in
+      consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to take a
+      supply of goods which he had brought out for them according to contract;
+      and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further informed
+      Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky Mountain and
+      American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious stratagems and
+      deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the country between them,
+      allotting boundaries within which each was to trade and hunt, so as not to
+      interfere with the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall, the
+      botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the expedition
+      to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these gentlemen we
+      may look forward to important information concerning these interesting
+      regions. There were three religious missionaries, also, bound to the
+      shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel in that far
+      wilderness.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth
+      returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press forward,
+      and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and moralizing
+      chief of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, under a proper escort, to rejoin his
+      people; his route branching off in a different direction. The latter took
+      a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future occasion, to repay his
+      hospitality in kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts out far
+      ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had confidently
+      expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of the Portneuf;
+      but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the
+      head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly grazing
+      in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report his
+      discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably
+      entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to his
+      own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o&rsquo;clock of the same
+      morning, Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s party were in the midst of the game.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners,
+      mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others
+      of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for
+      jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same
+      purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing in the
+      choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the scaffolds,
+      and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and activity. At
+      daylight the next morning, the runners again took the field, with similar
+      success; and, after an interval of repose made their third and last chase,
+      about twelve o&rsquo;clock; for by this time, Wyeth&rsquo;s party was in sight. The
+      game being now driven into a valley, at some distance, Wyeth was obliged
+      to fix his camp there; but he came in the evening to pay Captain
+      Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, the amateur
+      traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for the adventurous life of
+      the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M&rsquo;Kay, a half-breed; son of the
+      unfortunate adventurer of the same name who came out in the first maritime
+      expedition to Astoria and was blown up in the Tonquin. His son had grown
+      up in the employ of the British fur companies; and was a prime hunter, and
+      a daring partisan. He held, moreover, a farm in the valley of the
+      Wallamut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, were
+      surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party being
+      dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present chance for
+      hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of remaining with so
+      trifling a guard in a region so full of danger. Captain Bonneville
+      vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never hesitated to send out all
+      his hunters, when any important object was to be attained; and experience
+      had taught him that he was most secure when his forces were thus
+      distributed over the surrounding country. He then was sure that no enemy
+      could approach, from any direction, without being discovered by his
+      hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the slightest signs of the
+      proximity of Indians; and who would instantly convey intelligence to the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable
+      entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of
+      prime hunters&rsquo; dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and
+      roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in hunters&rsquo;
+      style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful hunting
+      ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the puny
+      gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian grace
+      to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his mellifluous keg
+      of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over the senses of the
+      veteran of Hudson&rsquo;s Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again went round; never
+      did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more rapturous
+      commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that happy state which
+      would have insured ample cause for the next day&rsquo;s repentance; and the bees
+      were already beginning to buzz about their ears, when a messenger came
+      spurring to the camp with intelligence that Wyeth&rsquo;s people had got
+      entangled in one of those deep and frightful ravines, piled with immense
+      fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the whole country about the
+      head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel was instantly at an end; the
+      keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was deserted; and the guests departed
+      with all speed to aid in extricating their companions from the volcanic
+      ravine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0045" id="link2H_4_0045">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      43.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A rapid march&mdash;A cloud of dust&mdash;Wild horsemen&mdash;&ldquo;High Jinks&rdquo;
+      Horseracing and rifle-shooting&mdash;The game of hand&mdash;The
+     fishing season&mdash;Mode of fishing&mdash;Table lands&mdash;Salmon
+     fishers&mdash;The captain&rsquo;s visit to an Indian lodge&mdash;The Indian
+     girl&mdash;The pocket mirror&mdash;Supper&mdash;Troubles of an evil
+     conscience.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;UP and away!&rdquo; is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader, when
+      a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the morning,
+      Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed upon the
+      horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered buffalo,
+      pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His
+      march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs
+      and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks rose
+      like walls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and as it
+      was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring hills. In
+      casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great cloud of dust
+      rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening back to the
+      camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made to receive an
+      enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the &ldquo;running
+      horses&rdquo; kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a little while,
+      they made signals from a distance that all was friendly. By this time the
+      cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a blast, and a band of
+      wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and
+      whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their
+      mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of
+      savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally half-breeds,
+      and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who were employed as
+      trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here was again &ldquo;high jinks&rdquo; in the camp. Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s men hailed
+      these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game
+      birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of
+      mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual
+      details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals of
+      laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses and
+      rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing,
+      and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded another,
+      shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties, fierce
+      altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take place, when
+      suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind
+      of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm.
+      Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas
+      of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws were turned in a
+      new direction. They all formed into groups and taking their places at the
+      several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting amusements of the Nez
+      Perces and the other tribes of the Far West.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind of
+      wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of &ldquo;Hand.&rdquo; This is played
+      by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing fire. It is
+      in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or the button, and
+      detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game, the object hidden,
+      or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood,
+      or other diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This
+      is passed backward and forward among the party &ldquo;in hand,&rdquo; while the party
+      &ldquo;out of hand&rdquo; guess where it is concealed. To heighten the excitement and
+      confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles are laid before each platoon,
+      upon which the members of the party &ldquo;in hand&rdquo; beat furiously with short
+      staves, keeping time to the choral chant already mentioned, which waxes
+      fast and furious as the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the
+      game, the excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full
+      chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such a heat
+      that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders, even in the cold
+      of a winter night. The bets are doubled and trebled as the game advances,
+      the mental excitement increases almost to madness, and all the worldly
+      effects of the gamblers are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire glared
+      upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic orgies,
+      and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding day, had
+      not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour,
+      issued his marching orders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly returned
+      to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet scarcely able
+      to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was now the season of
+      the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these parts celebrate the
+      first appearance of the salmon in this river. These fish are taken in
+      great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch. The Indians
+      flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as they attempt to
+      pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a sort of
+      chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and forming
+      an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening is left for
+      the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station themselves on
+      small rafts, and ply their spears with great success.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil, inconsiderable
+      in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly speaking, wormwood.
+      Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven occasionally by frightful
+      chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches the river, and terminates
+      with high and broken cliffs, difficult to pass, and in many places so
+      precipitous that it is impossible, for days together, to get down to the
+      water&rsquo;s edge, to give drink to the horses. This obliges the traveller
+      occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a wide sweep
+      into the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely from
+      sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were
+      extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the
+      edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the
+      travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly
+      shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of
+      the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
+      current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after
+      the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly five
+      hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with groves
+      of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in great
+      numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to enable
+      them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid race,
+      and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one of the
+      huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a
+      fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung over
+      the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is considered
+      cooked.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain
+      awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the
+      repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part.
+      While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him, and
+      turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a
+      young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed
+      her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute
+      surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears, and
+      drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly to tie it
+      round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a sound very
+      much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the captain, albeit
+      a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering
+      the shyness of the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned
+      toward the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco,
+      and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his pipe, and
+      watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold, an urchin of the
+      family approached the door, but catching a sight of the strange guest, ran
+      off screaming with terror and ensconced himself behind the long straw at
+      the back of the hut.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the
+      simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere
+      concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of a
+      savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After examining
+      it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat
+      skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head; but
+      purchased the skin for a couple of buttons&mdash;superfluous trinkets! as
+      the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to
+      place them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in the
+      eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and a
+      string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return; but
+      could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being now
+      completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion
+      was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass,
+      which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon boiled
+      so completely to his fancy.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to his host,
+      who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils so assiduously,
+      that in a little while his head manifested signs of confusion and
+      dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the kindly and companionable
+      qualities of the captain, he became easy and communicative; and at length
+      hinted something about exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at
+      once offered to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door.
+      The bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of
+      bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of
+      skins agreed upon as the price.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Shortly afterward, some of the captain&rsquo;s people coming up, he ordered
+      another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from the
+      hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple
+      inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl had
+      kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking, watching
+      every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing
+      after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his
+      new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed in the
+      train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a faithful and useful
+      adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct
+      of one of the captain&rsquo;s men, who had been in the California expedition.
+      During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place, he
+      had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled freely
+      and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious
+      look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at the
+      sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who regarded him with
+      reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily a bold fellow, who
+      never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the prospect of a battle.
+      At length he requested permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the
+      way of these people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the
+      people of Ogden&rsquo;s River, made him continually fear that some among them
+      might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek an opportunity of
+      revenge. Ever after this, while they remained in this neighborhood, he
+      would skulk out of the way and keep aloof when any of the native
+      inhabitants approached. &ldquo;Such,&rdquo; observed Captain Bonneville, &ldquo;is the
+      effect of self-reproach, even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness,
+      who has little else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0046" id="link2H_4_0046">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      44.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Outfit of a trapper&mdash;Risks to which he is subjected&mdash;
+     Partnership of trappers&mdash;Enmity of Indians&mdash;Distant smoke&mdash;A
+     country on fire&mdash;Gun Greek&mdash;Grand Rond&mdash;Fine pastures&mdash;
+     Perplexities in a smoky country&mdash;Conflagration of forests.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along Snake
+      River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this way a
+      range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body. The
+      outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder, and four
+      pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe, a hatchet, a
+      knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where supplies are
+      plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two or three horses, to
+      carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two trappers commonly go
+      together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and support; a larger
+      party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians. It is a service of
+      peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for the Indians, since
+      they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries with the traders,
+      have learned the value of the beaver, and look upon the trappers as
+      poachers, who are filching the riches from their streams, and interfering
+      with their market. They make no hesitation, therefore, to murder the
+      solitary trapper, and thus destroy a competitor, while they possess
+      themselves of his spoils. It is with regret we add, too, that this
+      hostility has in many cases been instigated by traders, desirous of
+      injuring their rivals, but who have themselves often reaped the fruits of
+      the mischief they have sown.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of
+      proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can
+      graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a
+      cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening,
+      and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at
+      daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch
+      the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up
+      before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior
+      style; the tail is the trapper&rsquo;s tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end of
+      a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than the
+      tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot
+      always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered,
+      perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen
+      curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages,
+      whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they
+      are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times,
+      they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps,
+      have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of one
+      of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time to
+      time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are
+      found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless
+      stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small
+      streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate
+      trappers that have been murdered on their banks.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present
+      instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended; for
+      his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck Indians
+      were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great distance, so that
+      they would be apt to detect and cut off any stragglers. It behooved him,
+      also, to keep his party together, to guard against any predatory attack
+      upon the main body; he continued on his way, therefore, without dividing
+      his forces. And fortunate it was that he did so; for in a little while he
+      encountered one of the phenomena of the western wilds that would
+      effectually have prevented his scattered people from finding each other
+      again. In a word, it was the season of setting fire to the prairies. As he
+      advanced he began to perceive great clouds of smoke at a distance, rising
+      by degrees, and spreading over the whole face of the country. The
+      atmosphere became dry and surcharged with murky vapor, parching to the
+      skin, and irritating to the eyes. When travelling among the hills, they
+      could scarcely discern objects at the distance of a few paces; indeed, the
+      least exertion of the vision was painful. There was evidently some vast
+      conflagration in the direction toward which they were proceeding; it was
+      as yet at a great distance, and during the day they could only see the
+      smoke rising in larger and denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense
+      canopy. At night the skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen
+      fires, hanging in an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left,
+      Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and
+      avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the
+      Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope
+      for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game might
+      be scarce.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke
+      continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish the
+      face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the travellers
+      fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters of the Fourche
+      de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand Rond. Here they found
+      all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast conflagration; which swept
+      over the long grass in billows of flame, shot up every bush and tree, rose
+      in great columns from the groves, and set up clouds of smoke that darkened
+      the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of fire, the travellers had to pursue
+      their course close along the foot of the mountains; but the irritation
+      from the smoke continued to be tormenting.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into broad
+      and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain springs and
+      rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of the Skynses, to
+      pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the salmon which abound
+      in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in great quantities and
+      without the least difficulty; simply taking them out of the water with
+      their hands, as they flounder and struggle in the numerous long shoals of
+      the principal streams. At the time the travellers passed over these
+      prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams by which they were intersected
+      were completely choked with salmon, which they took in great numbers. The
+      wolves and bears frequent these streams at this season, to avail
+      themselves of these great fisheries.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great difficulties
+      and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed to embrace the
+      whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the time obscured by the
+      smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from view. Blundering along
+      in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were frequently obliged to
+      make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they could not perceive until
+      close upon them. The Indian trails were their safest guides, for though
+      they sometimes appeared to lead them out of their direct course, they
+      always conducted them to the passes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River.
+      Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes its
+      way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable, and
+      appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce language, an
+      intercourse was easily kept up with them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped
+      for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses.
+      Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search
+      for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or
+      Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and
+      discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain
+      defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and
+      precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of
+      frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of
+      these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have
+      been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree, from
+      which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were not
+      the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration of the
+      country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was still more
+      awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames which swept
+      rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed a fiercer
+      character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and ravines of
+      the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up sheets of
+      flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that in the night
+      made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and forests, too,
+      which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns of fire, and
+      added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these stupendous sights
+      were combined the rushing blasts caused by the rarefied air, which roared
+      and howled through the narrow glens, and whirled forth the smoke and
+      flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon, too, was heard the crash of
+      falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags and precipices, with
+      tremendous sounds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and blinding,
+      that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only find each
+      other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way through the yet
+      burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and trunks of trees,
+      which frequently fell across their path. At length they gave up the
+      attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual circumstances, and made
+      their way back to the camp to report their failure.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0047" id="link2H_4_0047">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      45.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The Skynses&mdash;Their traffic&mdash;Hunting&mdash;Food&mdash;Horses&mdash;A horse-
+     race&mdash;Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+     Flatheads&mdash;Prayers&mdash;Exhortations&mdash;A preacher on horseback
+     Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes&mdash;A new
+     light.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been
+      kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into the
+      neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of the
+      Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the articles
+      of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to the trading
+      posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal traffic with
+      the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep in distant and
+      unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture near the trading
+      houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally; and depend, for a
+      part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence, however, is upon
+      roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said to be of a
+      delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it up in great
+      quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter provisions. It
+      grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles among
+      them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s men; offering a couple of good running horses for a light
+      rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured from them
+      on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a breed infinitely
+      superior to any in the United States. They are fond of trying their speed
+      and bottom, and of betting upon them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit of
+      their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of speed
+      between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to be well
+      matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a half out
+      and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead by a few
+      hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the Shoshonie
+      and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they went head and
+      head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the race with great
+      ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong
+      devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some of the
+      resident personages of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company. Sunday is invariably kept
+      sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their camp on that day,
+      unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither will they hunt, nor
+      fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on that day. A part of it
+      is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies. Some chief, who is generally
+      at the same time what is called a &ldquo;medicine man,&rdquo; assembles the community.
+      After invoking blessings from the Deity, he addresses the assemblage,
+      exhorting them to good conduct; to be diligent in providing for their
+      families; to abstain from lying and stealing; to avoid quarrelling or
+      cheating in their play, and to be just and hospitable to all strangers who
+      may be among them. Prayers and exhortations are also made, early in the
+      morning, on week days. Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from
+      horseback; moving slowly about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his
+      exhortations with a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen
+      with profound attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word
+      in unison, apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and
+      exhortations are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If
+      an Indian is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and
+      attends with reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his
+      prayer or exhortation, he says, &ldquo;I have done,&rdquo; upon which there is a
+      general exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably
+      derived from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of
+      their old Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or
+      ballad, which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose.
+      Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the Roman
+      Catholic Church.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor
+      savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and
+      effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not merely
+      from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from that of Mr.
+      Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the Flatheads.
+      &ldquo;During the time I have been with them,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;I have never known an
+      instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to a bead or pin, is
+      brought to you, if found; and often, things that have been thrown away.
+      Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This absence of all
+      quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the various
+      occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the crowding
+      together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have to be
+      driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the morning;
+      the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty. All this,
+      however, is done without confusion or disturbance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed in
+      their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one speaks, the
+      rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents by &lsquo;yes,&rsquo; or
+      dissents by &lsquo;no;&rsquo; and then states his reasons, which are listened to with
+      equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable than any other
+      children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor any quarrelling;
+      although there were, at least, five hundred of them together, and
+      continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit, they are brave
+      when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal number of
+      Blackfeet.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative to
+      the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain
+      Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion, in
+      conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the cultivation
+      of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between their
+      peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes, and
+      attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He
+      frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always
+      enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed
+      that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable
+      degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead them,
+      Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain; the
+      country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the raising
+      of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling assistance
+      from government, to protect them from the predatory and warlike tribes,
+      might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the midst of the great
+      western wilderness, who would &ldquo;wear the Americans near their hearts.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity of
+      this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all ardently
+      addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar day for
+      recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of season. After
+      prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an hour in the day,
+      says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several horses racing at full
+      speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups of gamblers, ready to
+      stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of hand. The Indians, says
+      Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with more zest than the whites.
+      They are great gamblers; and in proportion to their means, play bolder and
+      bet higher than white men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the savages,
+      has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more knowing
+      traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them by being
+      considered &ldquo;medicine men;&rdquo; that is, men gifted with mysterious knowledge.
+      This feeling is also at times played upon by religious charlatans, who are
+      to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One of these was noted by
+      Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads. A new great man, says he,
+      is rising in the camp, who aims at power and sway. He covers his designs
+      under the ample cloak of religion; inculcating some new doctrines and
+      ceremonials among those who are more simple than himself. He has already
+      made proselytes of one-fifth of the camp; beginning by working on the
+      women, the children, and the weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on
+      the plain, to their own vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe
+      look on and laugh; thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will
+      soon find that women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every
+      community, and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be
+      considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of
+      the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or
+      branches off and sets up an independent chief and &ldquo;medicine man.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0048" id="link2H_4_0048">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      46.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Scarcity in the camp&mdash;Refusal of supplies by the Hudson&rsquo;s
+     Bay Company&mdash;Conduct of the Indians&mdash;A hungry retreat&mdash;John
+     Day&rsquo;s River&mdash;The Blue Mountains&mdash;Salmon fishing on Snake
+     River Messengers from the Crow country&mdash;Bear River Valley&mdash;
+     immense migration of buffalo&mdash;Danger of buffalo hunting&mdash;A
+     wounded Indian&mdash;Eutaw Indians&mdash;A &ldquo;surround&rdquo; of antelopes.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville
+      found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore, of
+      his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing a low
+      range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais. Being now
+      within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of the
+      Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither to
+      purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well received
+      at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily refused.
+      Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave their present
+      employ, and enter into the service of the company; but they were not to be
+      seduced.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he ordered
+      an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He pushed
+      forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal to the
+      Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the Wallah-Wallah. His
+      route lay through a beautiful undulating country, covered with horses
+      belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for pasturage.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with
+      the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they kept
+      aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered that
+      they were under the influence of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay Company, who had
+      forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded
+      along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of
+      provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length
+      obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people. He
+      now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and
+      beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a
+      little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble
+      valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance under
+      present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources of the
+      country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous and
+      powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely hope
+      to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any longer
+      in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and cut off their
+      retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to reach the Blue
+      Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the bighorn; and
+      after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they might push
+      through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by snow.
+      Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly turned
+      his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue
+      Mountains. He took his course up John Day&rsquo;s River, so called from one of
+      the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at his
+      heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of October.
+      He entered by the opening made by John Day&rsquo;s River; it was a rugged and
+      difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed to hard
+      scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had extinguished
+      the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the mountains, no
+      longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur and sublimity to
+      the eye.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in
+      the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning
+      from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them.
+      It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to
+      keep the party from starvation.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for ten
+      days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much perplexity,
+      they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following the course of
+      which, they were sure to reach their place of destination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon this
+      noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty
+      numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its banks
+      to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for winter
+      provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense quantities of
+      fish drying upon them. At this season of the year, however, the salmon are
+      extremely poor, and the travellers needed their keen sauce of hunger to
+      give them a relish.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead
+      salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the
+      fetid odor of which tainted the air.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf
+      that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the
+      buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days,
+      slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an
+      enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found
+      good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard
+      travelling.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be
+      messengers sent express for supplies from Montero&rsquo;s party; which had been
+      sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter on the
+      Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but that they
+      had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission, and were still
+      in the Crow country, where they should remain until joined by Captain
+      Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the messengers with him
+      until the 17th of November, when, having reached the caches on Bear River,
+      and procured thence the required supplies, he sent them back to their
+      party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of June following, on the
+      forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having
+      discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased from
+      them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and arranged with
+      them to encamp together during the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the
+      upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it as
+      long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which would
+      be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but slowly,
+      merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his position.
+      The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow lay to a
+      considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried meat as
+      possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage that
+      could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to move
+      slowly toward their winter quarters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the present
+      winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the buffaloes before
+      the snow had become deep, immense herds now came trooping over the
+      mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from which their
+      deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and mutterings from a
+      gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke, and down came the
+      torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly impossible, according to
+      Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the effect produced by the sight
+      of such countless throngs of animals of such bulk and spirit, all rushing
+      forward as if swept on by a whirlwind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor
+      to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party,
+      finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without either
+      rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was passing close
+      by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such lucky aim as to
+      bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but hunger had made him
+      almost desperate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded in
+      particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a bull produces
+      no other effect than a toss of the head and greater exasperation; on the
+      contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow is fatal. Several
+      instances occurred during this great hunting bout, of bulls fighting
+      furiously after having received mortal wounds. Wyeth, also, was witness to
+      an instance of the kind while encamped with Indians. During a grand hunt
+      of the buffaloes, one of the Indians pressed a bull so closely that the
+      animal turned suddenly on him. His horse stopped short, or started back,
+      and threw him. Before he could rise the bull rushed furiously upon him,
+      and gored him in the chest so that his breath came out at the aperture. He
+      was conveyed back to the camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself
+      up for slain, he called round him his friends, and made his will by word
+      of mouth. It was something like a death chant, and at the end of every
+      sentence those around responded in concord. He appeared no ways
+      intimidated by the approach of death. &ldquo;I think,&rdquo; adds Wyeth, &ldquo;the Indians
+      die better than the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the
+      future.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the
+      leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and move off
+      from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles distant.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now
+      snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the
+      winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual
+      carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of
+      the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with the
+      appetite of a hunting camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer.
+      These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as the
+      winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the report
+      of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering in the air,
+      no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of the wolves would
+      peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the hunter&rsquo;s departure
+      to pounce upon the carcass.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the
+      valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a
+      band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They are a
+      poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these
+      regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root
+      Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few
+      rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of old
+      grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was feared
+      some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore, undertook
+      the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs, inviting them to
+      a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a reconciliation. His invitation
+      was proudly declined; whereupon he went to them in person, and succeeded
+      in effecting a suspension of hostilities until the chiefs of the two
+      tribes could meet in council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly
+      acquiesced in the arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill
+      tops, and watch their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain
+      below, and evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish.
+      The worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent
+      mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet
+      buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united and
+      mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would
+      occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows
+      would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the chiefs
+      wisely took no notice of these individual brawls.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of
+      several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance.
+      This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in
+      ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin of
+      the antelope. It was determined to have &ldquo;a surround,&rdquo; as the mode of
+      hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic
+      solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms
+      each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally with
+      the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of animals
+      which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries. After much
+      grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed that all who
+      were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should muster for &ldquo;the
+      surround.&rdquo; When all had congregated, they moved in rude procession to the
+      nearest point of the valley in question, and there halted. Another course
+      of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians are so fond, took place
+      among the chiefs. Directions were then issued for the horsemen to make a
+      circuit of about seven miles, so as to encompass the herd. When this was
+      done, the whole mounted force dashed off simultaneously, at full speed,
+      shouting and yelling at the top of their voices. In a short space of time
+      the antelopes, started from their hiding-places, came bounding from all
+      points into the valley. The riders, now gradually contracting their
+      circle, brought them nearer and nearer to the spot where the senior chief,
+      surrounded by the elders, male and female, were seated in supervision of
+      the chase. The antelopes, nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and
+      bewildered by perpetual whooping, made no effort to break through the ring
+      of the hunters, but ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and
+      child beat them down with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of
+      antelope hunting, technically called &ldquo;a surround.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0049" id="link2H_4_0049">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      47.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     A festive winter&mdash;Conversion of the Shoshonies&mdash;Visit of two
+     free trappers&mdash;Gayety in the camp&mdash;A touch of the tender
+     passion&mdash;The reclaimed squaw&mdash;An Indian fine lady&mdash;An
+     elopement&mdash;A pursuit&mdash;Market value of a bad wife.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was
+      overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches, buffalo
+      tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire; and the
+      whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast meat. It was,
+      indeed, a continual &ldquo;feast of fat things,&rdquo; and though there might be a
+      lack of &ldquo;wine upon the lees,&rdquo; yet we have shown that a substitute was
+      occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great
+      propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from their
+      good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but then, they
+      always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference and respect,
+      and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of feats of
+      activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward each other,
+      also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville reason to hope
+      that all past animosity was effectually buried.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social
+      manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form. The
+      senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of
+      observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new code
+      of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended their
+      devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in elevating
+      the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined, by the same
+      means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their ignorant rivals,
+      the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and promulgated among
+      them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the Nez Perces;
+      recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were struck with
+      the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it with spirit.
+      They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have their devotional
+      dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about which the ignorant Eutaws
+      knew nothing; while they exerted their usual competition in shooting and
+      horseracing, and the renowned game of hand.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley
+      community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free
+      trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds as
+      fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks&rsquo; bells, came
+      galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company, in
+      the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of Captain
+      Bonneville&rsquo;s company a visit. An idea may be formed from the scenes we
+      have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the manner in
+      which these game birds were received by those of their feather in the
+      camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting, what bragging, what
+      ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and squabbling and fighting,
+      ensued among these boon companions. Captain Bonneville, it is true,
+      maintained always a certain degree of law and order in his camp, and
+      checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in their seasons of idleness
+      and relaxation require a degree of license and indulgence, to repay them
+      for the long privations and almost incredible hardships of their periods
+      of active service.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender
+      passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among the
+      Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free
+      trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These
+      connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue for
+      years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free trapper
+      starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain their
+      belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their
+      protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all
+      that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race&mdash;whose gait,
+      and garb, and bravery he emulates&mdash;with all that is gallant and
+      glorious in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats
+      her, the finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves,
+      the sway she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the
+      drudge and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and
+      build his lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry
+      blows. No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the
+      wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. &lsquo;The
+      beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken
+      prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily ransomed
+      for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured about the camp
+      in fine array, &ldquo;with rings on her fingers, and bells on her toes,&rdquo; and a
+      tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy, admiration, and
+      abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working squaws of her
+      acquaintance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become
+      the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of older
+      date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his
+      household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was the
+      wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his eyes.
+      All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the very
+      proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of the trapper
+      was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He endeavored to
+      prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His horses were
+      fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight they would be
+      beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment in Green River
+      Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at defiance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease and
+      splendor of condition of a trapper&rsquo;s bride, and throbbed to be free from
+      the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the failure
+      of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted; the Indian
+      girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with his thwarted
+      passion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of the
+      Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his lodge,
+      with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At night, as
+      the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered at the door
+      of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She was ready to
+      follow whithersoever he should lead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift
+      of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up and
+      saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over the
+      snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of
+      escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse
+      before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and prairies
+      be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the present,
+      however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses forward
+      over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every blast, they
+      heard the yell of the pursuer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his
+      swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of the
+      fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds, however,
+      which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the prints made by
+      the horses&rsquo; hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of them, and was
+      completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the situation of the
+      camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course through the
+      mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the fugitives.
+      Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his course by day and
+      night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It was some time before
+      the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had they traversed the
+      wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and fatigue, and their horses
+      faltering under them. The first object that met their eyes on entering the
+      camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed, knife in hand, to plunge it in
+      the heart that had proved false to him. The trapper threw himself before
+      the cowering form of his mistress, and, exhausted as he was, prepared for
+      a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie paused. His habitual awe of the white man
+      checked his arm; the trapper&rsquo;s friends crowded to the spot, and arrested
+      him. A parley ensued. A kind of crim. con. adjudication took place; such
+      as frequently occurs in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared
+      to be a fair compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost
+      her heart; with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion.
+      He returned to Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is
+      true; but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing
+      that two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0050" id="link2H_4_0050">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      48.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Breaking up of winter quarters&mdash;Move to Green River&mdash;A
+     trapper and his rifle&mdash;An arrival in camp&mdash;A free trapper
+     and his squaw in distress&mdash;Story of a Blackfoot belle.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills, and
+      from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping had
+      arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who brought
+      away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April (1835), the
+      camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white men and their
+      allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many regrets and sincere
+      expressions of good-will; for their intercourse throughout the winter had
+      been of the most friendly kind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham&rsquo;s Fork, and reached the
+      Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they
+      remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were
+      conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their
+      vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant
+      precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such
+      dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle
+      even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he takes
+      it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him, ready
+      to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly as a
+      citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend and
+      protector.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind River
+      Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to give
+      their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey; for it
+      was Captain Bonneville&rsquo;s intention to shape his course to the settlements;
+      having already been detained by the complication of his duties, and by
+      various losses and impediments, far beyond the time specified in his leave
+      of absence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River
+      Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and
+      accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty
+      hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had
+      abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper; whom
+      they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and baggage, and
+      an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate prairie. The
+      horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this helpless pair,
+      and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their effects to the
+      camp.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress,
+      especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately
+      dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day
+      they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart
+      mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot
+      beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper&rsquo;s bride.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain Bonneville
+      entered into conversation with her, and obtained from her many particulars
+      concerning the habits and customs of her tribe; especially their wars and
+      huntings. They pride themselves upon being the &ldquo;best legs of the
+      mountains,&rdquo; and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done in spring time,
+      when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The heavy buffaloes
+      then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily overtaken by the
+      Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the surface. It is said,
+      however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains are
+      fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic side; those upon the plains
+      of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by a horse that would outstrip
+      the same animal in the neighborhood of the Platte, the usual hunting
+      ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of further conversation, Captain
+      Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her whole story; which gave a
+      picture of savage life, and of the drudgery and hardships to which an
+      Indian wife is subject.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I was the wife,&rdquo; said she, &ldquo;of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served him
+      faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well
+      provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed
+      water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat
+      cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay him.
+      I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the trouble of
+      speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs and warriors
+      smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things, in secret; but my
+      feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see nothing but him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I? When
+      he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered without
+      further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses; tied them
+      to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his feet. If his
+      moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which were dry and
+      warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase. He could never
+      say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the antelope, and the
+      buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else was done by me.
+      When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse and rode away; free
+      as though he had fallen from the skies. He had nothing to do with the
+      labor of the camp; it was I that packed the horses and led them on the
+      journey. When we halted in the evening, and he sat with the other braves
+      and smoked, it was I that pitched his lodge; and when he came to eat and
+      sleep, his supper and his bed were ready.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on
+      his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his
+      wife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how I
+      was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant and
+      fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother was
+      not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps death. At
+      length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the village. He pointed
+      away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in peace among them. We
+      parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the Nez Perces before me. I
+      paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on; but my horse neighed, and
+      I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to gallop forward. In a little
+      while I was in the midst of the lodges. As I sat silent on my horse, the
+      people gathered round me, and inquired whence I came. I told my story. A
+      chief now wrapped his blanket close around him, and bade me dismount. I
+      obeyed. He took my horse to lead him away. My heart grew small within me.
+      I felt, on parting with my horse, as if my last friend was gone. I had no
+      words, and my eyes were dry. As he led off my horse a young brave stepped
+      forward. &lsquo;Are you a chief of the people?&rsquo; cried he. &lsquo;Do we listen to you
+      in council, and follow you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp
+      from the dogs of Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your
+      face! The stranger is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a
+      warrior at her side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse.
+      But he is yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!&rsquo;&mdash;his
+      bow was drawn, and the arrow ready!&mdash;&lsquo;you never shall cross his
+      back!&rsquo; The arrow pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my
+      heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears; like
+      the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the days
+      passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in praise of
+      the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for his
+      wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and I have
+      taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this way, some
+      of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses of the
+      party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The guns were
+      laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white men attempted
+      to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began. The snow was deep,
+      the white men sank into it at every step; but the red men, with their
+      snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and drove off many of the
+      horses in sight of their owners. With those that remained we resumed our
+      journey. At length words took place between the leader of the party and my
+      husband. He took away our horses, which had escaped in the battle, and
+      turned us from his camp. My husband had one good friend among the
+      trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had asked assistance for
+      them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he came in from hunting,
+      and found that we had been driven away, he gave up all his wages, and
+      followed us, that he might speak good words for us to the white captain.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0051" id="link2H_4_0051">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      49.
+    </h2>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     Rendezvous at Wind River&mdash;Campaign of Montero and his
+     brigade in the Crow country&mdash;Wars between the Crows and
+     Blackfeet&mdash;Death&mdash;of Arapooish&mdash;Blackfeet lurkers&mdash;Sagacity
+     of the horse&mdash;Dependence of the hunter on his horse&mdash;Return
+     to the settlements.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the
+      forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he
+      was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the
+      preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to the
+      Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions; after
+      trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder River.
+      Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated him with
+      unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter quarters
+      among them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their old
+      enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the flower
+      of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest, Arapooish,
+      the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous chief had
+      beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in his tribe, and
+      that it was declining in force, and must eventually be destroyed unless
+      some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its fortunes. In a pitched
+      battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his warriors, urging them to
+      set everything at hazard in one furious charge; which done, he led the way
+      into the thickest of the foe. He was soon separated from his men, and fell
+      covered with wounds, but his self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet
+      were defeated; and from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and
+      were frequently successful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that the
+      Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters came
+      galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy was at
+      hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed out in
+      squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the midst of a
+      plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage of numbers,
+      and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the Blackfeet were
+      slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of willows, where the
+      horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows vigorously.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
+      bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best
+      mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then
+      advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which the
+      tribe is noted. When within an arrow&rsquo;s flight of the thicket, he loosened
+      his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the opposite
+      side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe; in this
+      way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows from
+      under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle, he
+      wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions, who
+      received him with yells of applause.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet were
+      not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared to drive
+      desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt the thicket.
+      Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned all-glorious with the
+      scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts and triumphs, the
+      scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies, and all the other
+      fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves had finished with the
+      scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women and children, and made
+      the objects of new parades and dances. They were then treasured up as
+      invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves who had won them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through policy
+      or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The warrior
+      who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such case, the
+      war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down, and the
+      shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and abandoned to
+      the triumph and insults of the million.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape from the
+      extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be oppressive,
+      Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their camps, and there
+      formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a vigilant watch at
+      night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze during the day,
+      under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut up in strong pens,
+      built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during a portion of the
+      winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find but little
+      sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above the snow; but
+      they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender branches of the
+      trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the first moments of
+      freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in frisking and
+      gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work, to glean their
+      scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men stripped the bark
+      of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the poor horses would
+      return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air, the moment they saw
+      their owners approaching them with blankets filled with cotton-wood bark,
+      their whole demeanor underwent a change. A universal neighing and capering
+      took place; they would rush forward, smell to the blankets, paw the earth,
+      snort, whinny and prance round with head and tail erect, until the
+      blankets were opened, and the welcome provender spread before them. These
+      evidences of intelligence and gladness were frequently recounted by the
+      trappers as proving the sagacity of the animal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some
+      respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced
+      trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times of
+      peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the horses.
+      No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their notice,
+      and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said, will even
+      indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the danger
+      threatens.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting up
+      the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse as a
+      sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him, and by his
+      starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of strangers. There
+      seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of fraternal sympathy
+      between the hunter and his horse. They mutually rely upon each other for
+      company and protection; and nothing is more difficult, it is said, than to
+      surprise an experienced hunter on the prairie while his old and favorite
+      steed is at his side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows, and
+      fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders discovered
+      his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a vigilant
+      watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who, at length,
+      seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the neighborhood. The
+      trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one night, after a day of
+      severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole camp was soon asleep.
+      Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers were roused by the
+      trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole party were
+      immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars were down;
+      but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being all found hard
+      by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through negligence. All
+      were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was a second alarm,
+      and it was discovered that several horses were missing. The rest were
+      mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that eighteen of the number
+      carried off were regained, and but three remained in possession of the
+      enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about the camp the preceding day. In
+      the morning it was discovered that a Blackfoot was entrapped by one of
+      them, but had succeeded in dragging it off. His trail was followed for a
+      long distance which he must have limped alone. At length he appeared to
+      have fallen in with some of his comrades, who had relieved him from his
+      painful encumbrance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These were the leading incidents of Montero&rsquo;s campaign in the Crow
+      country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough
+      hunters&rsquo; style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville
+      made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers to
+      open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue of his
+      men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not detail his
+      journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point to point of
+      the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier settlements on
+      the 22d of August.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken
+      for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged almost
+      to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during three years
+      of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous town, however,
+      produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample brim and longest
+      nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and pantaloons of the
+      most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn trapper&rsquo;s equipments;
+      and the happy wearers might be seen strolling about in all directions,
+      scattering their silver like sailors just from a cruise.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
+      excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged
+      resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back to
+      the wilderness with regret. &ldquo;Though the prospect,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;of once more
+      tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and nights
+      under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its attractions;
+      yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in the stirring
+      excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in the wilderness, the
+      change was far from promising an increase of that contentment and inward
+      satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who, like myself, has roved
+      almost from boyhood among the children of the forest, and over the
+      unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western wastes, will not be
+      startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the fascinations of the world
+      on this civilized side of the mountains, I would fain make my bow to the
+      splendors and gayeties of the metropolis, and plunge again amidst the
+      hardships and perils of the wilderness.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
+      satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually
+      in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may
+      meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of
+      collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds
+      and their motley inhabitants.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild
+      inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have been
+      anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular state of
+      things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great changes, if not
+      entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has given life to all this
+      portraiture, is essentially evanescent. Rival parties of trappers soon
+      exhaust the streams, especially when competition renders them heedless and
+      wasteful of the beaver. The furbearing animals extinct, a complete change
+      will come over the scene; the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out
+      in wild array, and tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war
+      chief, plumed and painted and ever on the prowl; the traders&rsquo; cavalcade,
+      winding through defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party
+      lurking on its trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse
+      in the midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the
+      fierce skirmish among rocks and cliffs&mdash;all this romance of savage
+      life, which yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in
+      frontier story, and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed
+      among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite,
+      perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain of
+      mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either side,
+      are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which prevails
+      there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under the aridity
+      of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes. An immense belt
+      of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several hundred miles in width,
+      must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness, intervening between the
+      abodes of civilization, and affording a last refuge to the Indian. Here
+      roving tribes of hunters, living in tents or lodges, and following the
+      migrations of the game, may lead a life of savage independence, where
+      there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the white man. The amalgamation
+      of various tribes, and of white men of every nation, will in time produce
+      hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of the Caucasus. Possessed as they
+      are of immense droves of horses should they continue their present
+      predatory and warlike habits, they may in time become a scourge to the
+      civilized frontiers on either side of the mountains, as they are at
+      present a terror to the traveller and trader.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of
+      establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders in
+      their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the outposts
+      into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid open, so as to
+      maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put an end to the
+      kind of &ldquo;blackmail,&rdquo; levied on all occasions by the savage &ldquo;chivalry of
+      the mountains.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Appendix
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western campaigning;
+      yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some particulars
+      concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth; anecdotes of whose
+      enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in the party-colored web of
+      our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of establishing a trading post
+      on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall. Here, for the first time, the
+      American flag was unfurled to the breeze that sweeps the great naked
+      wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving twelve men here, with a stock of
+      goods, to trade with the neighboring tribes, he prosecuted his journey to
+      the Columbia; where he established another post, called Fort Williams, on
+      Wappatoo Island, at the mouth of the Wallamut. This was to be the head
+      factory of his company; whence they were to carry on their fishing and
+      trapping operations, and their trade with the interior; and where they
+      were to receive and dispatch their annual ship.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had observed
+      that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free trappers, as well
+      as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for their supplies upon
+      goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence of the expenses and
+      risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them at an immense advance
+      on first cost. He had an idea that they might be much more cheaply
+      supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost much less on the borders
+      of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the transportation by land was much
+      shorter; and through a country much more safe from the hostility of savage
+      tribes; which, on the route from and to St. Louis, annually cost the lives
+      of many men. On this idea, he grounded his plan. He combined the salmon
+      fishery with the fur trade. A fortified trading post was to be established
+      on the Columbia, to carry on a trade with the natives for salmon and
+      peltries, and to fish and trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship
+      was to come from the United States, to bring out goods for the interior
+      trade, and to take home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part
+      of the goods, thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to
+      supply the trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their
+      furs; which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in
+      the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The
+      profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses of
+      the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home, would
+      cost nothing as to freight.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
+      perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met with,
+      prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to conceive,
+      and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had once more
+      reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria; and had he been
+      enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly effected, he might
+      have regained for his country the opulent trade of the Columbia, of which
+      our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be dispossessed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and
+      cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such as
+      all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea and
+      land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital to enable
+      him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold on until success
+      had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous experiments.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled to
+      dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own
+      account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great
+      fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still
+      maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the Columbia
+      and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered powers
+      permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr. Astor, when
+      he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. From their
+      emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every direction, to
+      supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and to trap upon the
+      various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse the plains, penetrate
+      to the heart of the mountains, extend their enterprises northward, to the
+      Russian possessions, and southward, to the confines of California. Their
+      yearly supplies are received by sea, at Vancouver; and thence their furs
+      and peltries are shipped to London. They likewise maintain a considerable
+      commerce, in wheat and lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north,
+      with the Russian settlements.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in
+      the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance;
+      yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight, and
+      subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish a monopoly
+      of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are adroitly
+      proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by securing all the
+      strong points of the country.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of the
+      main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept up as a
+      fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to shipping
+      have been taken possession of, and posts recently established at them by
+      the company.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great capital of this association; their long established system;
+      their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal
+      organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a
+      machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians, give
+      them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely the
+      latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until the
+      question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries. The
+      sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious to
+      national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and
+      every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the
+      Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country.
+      Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being
+      rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower
+      country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give
+      sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great
+      population of graziers and agriculturists.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which
+      the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here, the
+      company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its
+      superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is
+      about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The
+      climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while the
+      soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri lands.
+      The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated for a
+      great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for the
+      mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature, that
+      grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out to
+      pasture during the winter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future
+      settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the
+      embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present they
+      lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and trapper,
+      present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful agriculturists
+      and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem with waving
+      crops, or be covered with flocks and herds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company
+      restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the
+      hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would be
+      brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of Mr.
+      Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0053" id="link2H_4_0053">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr.
+      Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as to
+      the manner in which America has been peopled.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      &ldquo;Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese junk
+      was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen
+      Charlotte&rsquo;s Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced by
+      starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were
+      killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson&rsquo;s Bay
+      Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at Vancouver,
+      in 1834.&rdquo;
+     </p>
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0054" id="link2H_4_0054">
+      <!--  H2 anchor --> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      Instructions to Captain Bonneville
+    </h2>
+    <h3>
+      from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States.
+    </h3>
+    <p>
+      Copy
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Sir,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling you
+      to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the Rocky
+      Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and character
+      of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the trade which
+      might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the soil, the
+      productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate, the
+      Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts of the
+      Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the United
+      States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly considered,
+      and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has been
+      sanctioned.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October
+      1833.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in reference
+      to your proposed expedition, it having originated with yourself, and all
+      that you required was the permission from the proper authority to
+      undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing yourself for the
+      expedition, provide suitable instruments, and especially the best Maps of
+      the interior to be found. It is desirable besides what is enumerated as
+      the object of enterprise that you note particularly the number of Warriors
+      that may belong to each tribe, or nation that you may meet with: their
+      alliances with other tribes and their relative position as to a state of
+      peace or war, and whether their friendly or warlike dispositions towards
+      each other are recent or of long standing. You will gratify us by
+      describing the manner of their making War, of the mode of subsisting
+      themselves during a state of war, and a state of peace, their Arms, and
+      the effect of them, whether they act on foot or on horse back, detailing
+      the discipline, and manuvers of the war parties, the power of their
+      horses, size and general discription; in short any information which you
+      may conceive would be useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of
+      every opportunity of informing us of your position and progress, and at
+      the expiration of your leave of absence will join your proper station.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      (Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 6em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
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+Project Gutenberg Etext of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
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+The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
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+by Washington Irving
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+*END*THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END*
+
+
+
+
+
+The Adventures of Captain
+Bonneville
+digested from his journal by
+Washington Irving
+
+
+Originally published in 1837
+
+
+
+
+Introductory Notice
+
+
+WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of
+Astoria, it was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information
+connected with the subject. Nowhere did I pick up more
+interesting particulars than at the table of Mr. John Jacob
+Astor;  who, being the patriarch of the fur trade in the United
+States, was accustomed to have at his board various persons of
+adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own great
+undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions
+to the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia.
+
+Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was
+Captain Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling
+kind of enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and
+hunter upon the soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will
+form the leading theme of the following pages, a few biographical
+particulars concerning him may not be unacceptable.
+
+Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a
+worthy old emigrant, who came to this country many years since,
+and took up his abode in New York. He is represented as a man not
+much calculated for the sordid struggle of a money-making world,
+but possessed of a happy temperament, a festivity of imagination,
+and a simplicity of heart, that made him proof against its rubs
+and trials. He was an excellent scholar; well acquainted with
+Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics. His book was
+his elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire, Corneille,
+or Racine, or of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he
+forgot the world and all its concerns. Often would he be seen in
+summer weather, seated under one of the trees on the Battery, or
+the portico of St. Paul's church in Broadway, his bald head
+uncovered, his hat lying by his side, his eyes riveted to the
+page of his book, and his whole soul so engaged, as to lose all
+consciousness of the passing throng or the passing hour.
+
+Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his
+father's bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the
+latter was somewhat disciplined in early years, by mathematical
+studies. He was educated at our national Military Academy at West
+Point, where he acquitted himself very creditably; thence, he
+entered the army, in which he has ever since continued.
+
+The nature of our military service took him to the frontier,
+where, for a number of years, he was stationed at various posts
+in the Far West. Here he was brought into frequent intercourse
+with Indian traders, mountain trappers, and other pioneers of the
+wilderness; and became so excited by their tales of wild scenes
+and wild adventures, and their accounts of vast and magnificent
+regions as yet unexplored, that an expedition to the Rocky
+Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart, and an
+enterprise to explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his
+ambition.
+
+By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical
+reality. Having made himself acquainted with all the requisites
+for a trading enterprise beyond the mountains, he determined to
+undertake it. A leave of absence, and a sanction of his
+expedition, was obtained from the major general in chief, on his
+offering to combine public utility with his private projects, and
+to collect statistical information for the War Department
+concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit in
+the course of his journeyings.
+
+Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain,
+but the ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of
+many thousand dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose
+capital is seldom any thing more than his sword. Full of that
+buoyant hope, however, which belongs to the sanguine temperament,
+he repaired to New-York, the great focus of American enterprise,
+where there are always funds ready for any scheme, however
+chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to meet with
+a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been
+his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow
+friendship for him. He took a general interest in the scheme of
+the captain; introduced him to commercial men of his
+acquaintance, and in a little while an association was formed,
+and the necessary funds were raised to carry the proposed measure
+into effect. One of the most efficient persons in this
+association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a youth, had
+accompanied one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to his
+commercial establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished
+himself by his activity and courage at one of the interior posts.
+Mr. Seton was one of the American youths who were at Astoria at
+the time of its surrender to the British, and who manifested such
+grief and indignation at seeing the flag of their country hauled
+down. The hope of seeing that flag once more planted on the
+shores of the Columbia, may have entered into his motives for
+engaging in the present enterprise.
+
+Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his
+expedition into the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky
+Mountains. Year after year elapsed without his return. The term
+of his leave of absence expired, yet no report was made of him at
+head quarters at Washington. He was considered virtually dead or
+lost and his name was stricken from the army list.
+
+It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John
+Jacob Astor, at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain
+Bonneville He was then just returned from a residence of upwards
+of three years among the mountains, and was on his way to report
+himself at head quarters, in the hopes of being reinstated in the
+service. From all that I could learn, his wanderings in the
+wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity and his love
+of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like Corporal
+Trim in his campaigns, he had "satisfied the sentiment," and that
+was all. In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted
+soldier, and had inherited too much of his father's temperament,
+to make a scheming trapper, or a thrifty bargainer.
+
+There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that
+prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well
+made and well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had
+seen service, gave him a look of compactness. His countenance was
+frank, open, and engaging; well browned by the sun, and had
+something of a French expression.  He had a pleasant black eye, a
+high forehead, and, while he kept his hat on, the look of a man
+in the jocund prime of his days; but the moment his head was
+uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a few more years
+than he was really entitled to.
+
+Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected
+with the Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They
+drew from him a number of extremely striking details, which were
+given with mingled modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of
+manner, and a soft tone of voice, contrasting singularly with the
+wild and often startling nature of his themes. It was difficult
+to conceive the mild, quiet-looking personage before you, the
+actual hero of the stirring scenes related.
+
+In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the
+city of Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was
+attending the slow adjustment of his affairs with the War
+Department. I found him quartered with a worthy brother in arms,
+a major in the army. Here he was writing at a table, covered with
+maps and papers, in the centre of a large barrack room,
+fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and war
+dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round
+with pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war
+and hunting. In a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness
+of attendance at court, by an attempt at authorship; and was
+rewriting and extending his travelling notes, and making maps of
+the regions he had explored. As he sat at the table, in this
+curious apartment, with his high bald head of somewhat foreign
+cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures of authors
+that I have seen in old Spanish volumes.
+
+The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he
+subsequently put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and
+bring it before the world. I found it full of interesting details
+of life among the mountains, and of the singular castes and
+races, both white men and red men, among whom he had sojourned.
+It bore, too, throughout, the impress of his character, his
+bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his susceptibility to
+the grand and beautiful.
+
+That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I
+have occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from
+various sources, especially from the conversations and journals
+of some of the captain's contemporaries, who were actors in the
+scenes he describes. I have also given it a tone and coloring
+drawn from my own observation, during an excursion into the
+Indian country beyond the bounds of civilization; as I before
+observed, however, the work is substantially the narrative of the
+worthy captain, and many of its most graphic passages are but
+little varied from his own language.
+
+I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of
+his manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose
+quarters I found him occupied in his literary labors; it is a
+dedication which, I believe, possesses the qualities, not always
+found in complimentary documents of the kind, of being sincere,
+and being merited.
+
+To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., 
+whose jealousy of its honor, whose anxiety for its interests, and
+whose sensibility for its wants, have endeared him to the service
+as The Soldier's Friend; 
+and whose general amenity, constant cheerfulness. disinterested
+hospitality, and unwearied benevolence, entitle him to the still
+loftier title of The Friend of Man, 
+this work is inscribed, etc.
+
+
+                                                WASHINGTON IRVING
+
+
+
+                              1. 
+                                
+    State of the fur trade of the Rocky Mountains  American
+enterprises General Ashley and his associates Sublette, a famous
+  leader Yearly rendezvous among the mountains Stratagems and
+dangers of the trade Bands of trappers Indian banditti Crows and
+ Blackfeet Mountaineers  Traders of the Far West Character and
+                     habits of the trapper
+
+IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise
+of Mr. John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the
+fur trade at the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the
+failure of that enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the
+British, in 1814; and of the way in which the control of the
+trade of the Columbia and its dependencies fell into the hands of
+the Northwest Company. We have stated, likewise, the unfortunate
+supineness of the American government in neglecting the
+application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the American flag,
+and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate himself in
+the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the post
+was formally given up by the British government, though still
+occupied by the Northwest Company. By that supineness the
+sovereignty in the country has been virtually lost to the United
+States; and it will cost both governments much trouble and
+difficulty to settle matters on that just and rightful footing on
+which they would readily have been placed had the proposition of
+Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now state a few particulars
+of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader up to the period
+of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for the
+circumstances of our narrative.
+
+In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American
+government, Mr. Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining
+Astoria, and made no further attempt to extend his enterprises
+beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the Northwest Company considered
+themselves the lords of the country. They did not long enjoy
+unmolested the sway which they had somewhat surreptitiously
+attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and their old
+rivals, the Hudson's Bay Company; which was carried on at great
+cost and sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It
+ended in the ruin of most of the partners of the Northwest
+Company; and the merging of the relics of that establishment, in
+1821, in the rival association. From that time, the Hudson's Bay
+Company enjoyed a monopoly of the Indian trade from the coast of
+the Pacific to the Rocky Mountains, and for a considerable extent
+north and south. They removed their emporium from Astoria to Fort
+Vancouver, a strong post on the left bank of the Columbia River,
+about sixty miles from its mouth; whence they furnished their
+interior posts, and sent forth their brigades of trappers.
+
+The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the
+United States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged
+valleys, and the great western plains watered by their rivers,
+remained almost a terra incognita to the American trapper. The
+difficulties experienced in 1808, by Mr. Henry of the Missouri
+Company, the first American who trapped upon the head-waters of
+the Columbia; and the frightful hardships sustained by Wilson P.
+Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other intrepid Astorians,
+in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, appeared for
+a time to check all further enterprise in that direction. The
+American traders contented themselves with following up the head
+branches of the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and
+streams on the Atlantic side of the mountains, but forbore to
+attempt those great snow-crowned sierras.
+
+One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was
+General Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements
+in the prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in
+the Far West. In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned,
+he established a post on the banks of the Yellowstone River in
+1822, and in the following year pushed a resolute band of
+trappers across the mountains to the banks of the Green River or
+Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name of the
+Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by
+others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete
+system of trapping organized beyond the mountains.
+
+It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and
+perseverance of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted
+these early expeditions, and first broke their way through a
+wilderness where everything was calculated to deter and dismay
+them. They had to traverse the most dreary and desolate
+mountains, and barren and trackless wastes, uninhabited by man,
+or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel savages. They
+knew nothing of the country beyond the verge of their horizon,
+and had to gather information as they wandered. They beheld
+volcanic plains stretching around them, and ranges of mountains
+piled up to the clouds, and glistening with eternal frost: but
+knew nothing of their defiles, nor how they were to be penetrated
+or traversed. They launched themselves in frail canoes on rivers,
+without knowing whither their swift currents would carry them, or
+what rocks and shoals and rapids they might encounter in their
+course. They had to be continually on the alert, too, against the
+mountain tribes, who beset every defile, laid ambuscades in their
+path, or attacked them in their night encampments; so that, of
+the hardy bands of trappers that first entered into these
+regions, three-fifths are said to have fallen by the hands of
+savage foes.
+
+In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung
+up, originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley;
+among these we may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert
+Campbell, and William Sublette; whose adventures and exploits
+partake of the wildest spirit of romance. The association
+commenced by General Ashley underwent various modifications. That
+gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold out his
+interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded him
+was Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name
+has become renowned in frontier story. He is a native of
+Kentucky, and of game descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel
+Wheatley, a companion of Boon, having been one of the pioneers of
+the West, celebrated in Indian warfare, and killed in one of the
+contests of the "Bloody Ground." We shall frequently have
+occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to the credit of
+his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name of the
+Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert
+Campbell were prominent members.
+
+In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the
+attention and excited the emulation of the American Fur Company,
+and brought them once more into the field of their ancient
+enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder of the association, had
+retired from busy life, and the concerns of the company were ably
+managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown, who still
+officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued
+between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes
+and the trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other
+great tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations
+of these formidable rivals, there have been from time to time
+desultory enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor
+associations, or of adventurous individuals beside roving bands
+of independent trappers, who either hunt for themselves, or
+engage for a single season, in the service of one or other of the
+main companies.
+
+The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior
+regions, from the Russian possessions in the north down to the
+Spanish settlements of California, have been traversed and
+ransacked in every direction by bands of hunters and Indian
+traders; so that there is scarcely a mountain pass, or defile,
+that is not known and threaded in their restless migrations, nor
+a nameless stream that is not haunted by the lonely trapper.
+
+The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the
+mountains. Everything there is regulated by resident partners;
+that is to say, partners who reside in the tramontane country,
+but who move about from place to place, either with Indian
+tribes, whose traffic they wish to monopolize, or with main
+bodies of their own men, whom they employ in trading and
+trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands, or "brigades" as
+they are termed, of trappers in various directions, assigning to
+each a portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground. In the
+months of June and July, when there is an interval between the
+hunting seasons, a general rendezvous is held, at some designated
+place in the mountains, where the affairs of the past year are
+settled by the resident partners, and the plans for the following
+year arranged.
+
+To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from
+their widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products
+of their year's campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes
+accustomed to traffic their peltries with the company. Bands of
+free trappers resort hither also, to sell the furs they have
+collected; or to engage their services for the next hunting
+season.
+
+To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of
+supplies from its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under
+the guidance of some experienced partner or officer. On the
+arrival of this convoy, the resident partner at the rendezvous
+depends to set all his next year's machinery in motion.
+
+Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other,
+and are anxious to discover each other's plans and movements,
+they generally contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no
+great distance apart. An eager competition exists also between
+their respective convoys of supplies, which shall first reach its
+place of rendezvous. For this purpose, they set off with the
+first appearance of grass on the Atlantic frontier and push with
+all diligence for the mountains. The company that can first open
+its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition, scarlet
+cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the
+greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians
+and free trappers, and to engage their services for the next
+season. It is able, also, to fit out and dispatch its own
+trappers the soonest, so as to get the start of its competitors,
+and to have the first dash into the hunting and trapping grounds.
+
+A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and
+trapping competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to
+forestall and outwit each other; to supplant each other in the
+good will and custom of the Indian tribes; to cross each other's
+plans; to mislead each other as to routes; in a word, next to his
+own advantage, the study of the Indian trader is the disadvantage
+of his competitor.
+
+The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the
+habits of the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of
+the beaver their most profitable species of hunting; and the
+traffic with the white man has opened to them sources of luxury
+of which they previously had no idea. The introduction of
+firearms has rendered them more successful hunters, but at the
+same time, more formidable foes; some of them, incorrigibly
+savage and warlike in their nature, have found the expeditions of
+the fur traders grand objects of profitable adventure. To waylay
+and harass a band of trappers with their pack-horses, when
+embarrassed in the rugged defiles of the mountains, has become as
+favorite an exploit with these Indians as the plunder of a
+caravan to the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet, who
+were such terrors in the path of the early adventurers to
+Astoria, still continue their predatory habits, but seem to have
+brought them to greater system. They know the routes and resorts
+of the trappers; where to waylay them on their journeys; where to
+find them in the hunting seasons, and where to hover about them
+in winter quarters. The life of a trapper, therefore, is a
+perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his weapons in
+his hands.
+
+A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this
+system of things. In the old times of the great Northwest
+Company, when the trade in furs was pursued chiefly about the
+lakes and rivers, the expeditions were carried on in batteaux and
+canoes. The voyageurs or boatmen were the rank and file in the
+service of the trader, and even the hardy "men of the north,"
+those great rufflers and game birds, were fain to be paddled from
+point to point of their migrations.
+
+A totally different class has now sprung up:--"the Mountaineers,"
+the traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and
+pursue their hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They
+move from place to place on horseback. The equestrian exercises,
+therefore, in which they are engaged, the nature of the countries
+they traverse, vast plains and mountains, pure and exhilarating
+in atmospheric qualities, seem to make them physically and
+mentally a more lively and mercurial race than the fur traders
+and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting "men of the
+north." A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially different
+from a man who cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly,
+hardy, lithe, vigorous, and active; extravagant in word, and
+thought, and deed; heedless of hardship; daring of danger;
+prodigal of the present, and thoughtless of the future.
+
+A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain
+hunters and those of the lower regions along the waters of the
+Missouri. The latter, generally French creoles, live comfortably
+in cabins and log-huts, well sheltered from the inclemencies of
+the seasons. They are within the reach of frequent supplies from
+the settlements; their life is comparatively free from danger,
+and from most of the vicissitudes of the upper wilderness. The
+consequence is that they are less hardy, self-dependent and
+game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by chance comes
+among them on his way to and from the settlements, he is like a
+game-cock among the common roosters of the poultry-yard.
+Accustomed to live in tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he
+despises the comforts and is impatient of the confinement of the
+log-house. If his meal is not ready in season, he takes his
+rifle, hies to the forest or prairie, shoots his own game, lights
+his fire, and cooks his repast. With his horse and his rifle, he
+is independent of the world, and spurns at all its restraints.
+The very superintendents at the lower posts will not put him to
+mess with the common men, the hirelings of the establishment, but
+treat him as something superior.
+
+There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says
+Captain Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion,
+peril, and excitement, and who are more enamored of their
+occupations, than the free trappers of the West. No toil, no
+danger, no privation can turn the trapper from his pursuit. His
+passionate excitement at times resembles a mania. In vain may the
+most vigilant and cruel savages beset his path; in vain may rocks
+and precipices and wintry torrents oppose his progress; let but a
+single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he forgets all dangers
+and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be seen with his
+traps on his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid streams,
+amidst floating blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be found
+with his traps swung on his back clambering the most rugged
+mountains, scaling or descending the most frightful precipices,
+searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse, and never before
+trodden by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to his
+comrades, and where he may meet with his favorite game. Such is
+the mountaineer, the hardy trapper of the West; and such, as we
+have slightly sketched it, is the wild, Robin Hood kind of life,
+with all its strange and motley populace, now existing in full
+vigor among the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the
+fur trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him
+acquainted with the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no
+longer delay the introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band
+into this field of their enterprise, but launch them at once upon
+the perilous plains of the Far West.
+
+
+
+                              2. 
+                                
+    Departure from Fort Osage Modes of transportation Pack-
+horses Wagons Walker and Cerre; their characters Buoyant feelings
+     on launching upon the prairies Wild equipments of the
+trappers Their gambols and antics Difference of character between
+ the American and French trappers  Agency of the Kansas General
+ Clarke White Plume, the Kansas chief Night scene in a trader's
+     camp Colloquy between White Plume and the captain Bee-
+hunters Their expeditions Their feuds with the Indians Bargaining
+                     talent of White Plume
+
+
+IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took
+his departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the
+Missouri. He had enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men,
+most of whom had been in the Indian country, and some of whom
+were experienced hunters and trappers. Fort Osage, and other
+places on the borders of the western wilderness, abound with
+characters of the kind, ready for any expedition. 
+
+The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland
+expeditions of the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but
+Captain Bonneville substituted wagons. Though he was to travel
+through a trackless wilderness, yet the greater part of his route
+would lie across open plains, destitute of forests, and where
+wheel carriages can pass in every direction. The chief difficulty
+occurs in passing the deep ravines cut through the prairies by
+streams and winter torrents. Here it is often necessary to dig a
+road down the banks, and to make bridges for the wagons.
+
+In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain
+Bonneville thought he would save the great delay caused every
+morning by packing the horses, and the labor of unpacking in the
+evening. Fewer horses also would be required, and less risk
+incurred of their wandering away, or being frightened or carried
+off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would be more easily
+defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case of
+attack in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by
+oxen, or by four mules or horses each, and laden with
+merchandise, ammunition, and provisions, were disposed in two
+columns in the center of the party, which was equally divided
+into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or lieutenants in his
+expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr. J. R.
+Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee,
+about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in
+spirit, though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in
+Missouri, on the frontier; had been among the earliest
+adventurers to Santa Fe, where he went to trap beaver, and was
+taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated, he engaged with the
+Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the Pawnees; then
+returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as sheriff, trader,
+trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain Bonneville.
+
+Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to
+Santa Fe, in which he had endured much hardship. He was of the
+middle size, light complexioned, and though but about twenty-five
+years of age, was considered an experienced Indian trader. It was
+a great object with Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains
+before the summer heats and summer flies should render the
+travelling across the prairies distressing; and before the annual
+assemblages of people connected with the fur trade should have
+broken up, and dispersed to the hunting grounds.
+
+The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur
+Company and the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several
+places of rendezvous for the present year at no great distance
+apart, in Pierre's Hole, a deep valley in the heart of the
+mountains, and thither Captain Bonneville intended to shape his
+course.
+
+It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the
+worthy captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of
+hunters, trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad
+prairies, with his face to the boundless West. The tamest
+inhabitant of cities, the veriest spoiled child of civilization,
+feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat high on finding himself
+on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what then must be the
+excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated by a
+residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a
+region of romance!
+
+His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had
+already experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked
+forward to a renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit.
+Their very appearance and equipment exhibited a piebald mixture,
+half civilized and half savage. Many of them looked more like
+Indians than white men in their garbs and accoutrements, and
+their very horses were caparisoned in barbaric style, with
+fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of adventurers on one
+of these expeditions is always animated and joyous. The welkin
+rang with their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the
+savages; and with boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As
+they passed the straggling hamlets and solitary cabins that
+fringe the skirts of the frontier, they would startle their
+inmates by Indian yells and war-whoops, or regale them with
+grotesque feats of horsemanship, well suited to their halfsavage
+appearance. Most of these abodes were inhabited by men who had
+themselves been in similar expeditions; they welcomed the
+travellers, therefore, as brother trappers, treated them with a
+hunter's hospitality, and cheered them with an honest God speed
+at parting.
+
+And here we would remark a great difference, in point of
+character and quality, between the two classes of trappers, the
+"American" and "French," as they are called in contradistinction.
+The latter is meant to designate the French creole of Canada or
+Louisiana; the former, the trapper of the old American stock,
+from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others of the western States. The
+French trapper is represented as a lighter, softer, more
+self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife, his
+lodge, and his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless,
+takes little heed of landmarks, depends upon his leaders and
+companions to think for the common weal, and, if left to himself,
+is easily perplexed and lost.
+
+The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the
+service of the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or
+in the heart of the mountains, and he is never at a loss. He
+notices every landmark; can retrace his route through the most
+monotonous plains, or the most perplexed labyrinths of the
+mountains; no danger nor difficulty can appal him, and he scorns
+to complain under any privation. In equipping the two kinds of
+trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the light
+fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what he
+calls the "shot-gun." We give these estimates on the authority of
+a trader of long experience, and a foreigner by birth. "I
+consider one American," said he, "equal to three Canadians in
+point of sagacity, aptness at resources, self-dependence, and
+fearlessness of spirit. In fact, no one can cope with him as a
+stark tramper of the wilderness."
+
+Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain
+Bonneville had enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ,
+on whose hunting qualifications he placed great reliance.
+
+On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border
+habitation, and bade a long farewell to the ease and security of
+civilization. The buoyant and clamorous spirits with which they
+had commenced their march gradually subsided as they entered upon
+its difficulties. They found the prairies saturated with the
+heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain seasons of the year in
+this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank deep in the mire,
+the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed and rider
+were completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they
+reached the Kansas River; a fine stream about three hundred yards
+wide, entering the Missouri from the south. Though fordable in
+almost every part at the end of summer and during the autumn, yet
+it was necessary to construct a raft for the transportation of
+the wagons and effects. All this was done in the course of the
+following day, and by evening, the whole party arrived at the
+agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under the superintendence of
+General Clarke, brother of the celebrated traveller of the same
+name, who, with Lewis, made the first expedition down the waters
+of the Columbia. He was living like a patriarch, surrounded by
+laborers and interpreters, all snugly housed, and provided with
+excellent farms. The functionary next in consequence to the agent
+was the blacksmith, a most important, and, indeed, indispensable
+personage in a frontier community. The Kansas resemble the Osages
+in features, dress, and language; they raise corn and hunt the
+buffalo, ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at
+the time of the captain's visit, they were at war with the
+Pawnees of the Nebraska, or Platte River.
+
+The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation
+among these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining
+everything minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting
+a degree of excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite
+to that apathy with which their race is so often reproached.
+
+The personage who most attracted the captain's attention at this
+place was "White Plume," the Kansas chief, and they soon became
+good friends. White Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous
+soubriquet) inhabited a large stone house, built for him by order
+of the American government: but the establishment had not been
+carried out in corresponding style. It might be palace without,
+but it was wigwam within; so that, between the stateliness of his
+mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the gallant White
+Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see in the
+gala equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy at
+Washington, who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and
+military coat, in contrast to his breech-clout and leathern
+legging; being grand officer at top, and ragged Indian at bottom.
+
+White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and
+pleased with one or two presents received from him, that he
+accompanied him a day's journey on his march, and passed a night
+in his camp, on the margin of a small stream. The method of
+encamping generally observed by the captain was as follows: The
+twenty wagons were disposed in a square, at the distance of
+thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval there was a
+mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men cooked,
+ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre of
+the square, with a guard stationed over them at night.
+
+The horses were "side lined," as it is termed: that is to say,
+the fore and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied
+together, so as to be within eighteen inches of each other. A
+horse thus fettered is for a time sadly embarrassed, but soon
+becomes sufficiently accustomed to the restraint to move about
+slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his being easily carried
+off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that is "foot free"
+is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it were, a
+pivot, round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm.
+The encampment of which we are speaking presented a striking
+scene. The various mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque
+groups, standing, sitting, and reclining; some busied in cooking,
+others in cleaning their weapons: while the frequent laugh told
+that the rough joke or merry story was going on. In the middle of
+the camp, before the principal lodge, sat the two chieftains,
+Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in soldier-like communion,
+the captain delighted with the opportunity of meeting on social
+terms with one of the red warriors of the wilderness, the
+unsophisticated children of nature. The latter was squatted on
+his buffalo robe, his strong features and red skin glaring in the
+broad light of a blazing fire, while he recounted astounding
+tales of the bloody exploits of his tribe and himself in their
+wars with the Pawnees; for there are no old soldiers more given
+to long campaigning stories than Indian "braves."
+
+The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the
+red men; he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class
+of offenders for whom he seemed to cherish a particular
+abhorrence. As the species of hunting prosecuted by these
+worthies is not laid down in any of the ancient books of venerie,
+and is, in fact, peculiar to our western frontier, a word or two
+on the subject may not be unacceptable to the reader.
+
+The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the
+prairies; a long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion,
+acquired from living on new soil, and in a hut built of green
+logs. In the autumn, when the harvest is over, these; frontier
+settlers form parties of two or three, and prepare for a bee
+hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and a number of
+empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into the
+wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south,
+without any regard to the ordinance of the American government,
+which strictly forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to
+the Indian tribes.
+
+The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border
+the rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which
+make their hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled
+from the rich flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to
+popular assertion, are migrating like the settlers, to the west.
+An Indian trader, well experienced in the country, informs us
+that within ten years that he has passed in the Far West, the bee
+has advanced westward above a hundred miles. It is said on the
+Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee go up the river
+together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is but
+recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or
+Platte; and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared
+there about the same time.
+
+Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is
+to make a wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the
+patches of forest on the prairies, marking, as they go out, every
+tree in which they have detected a hive. These marks are
+generally respected by any other bee hunter that should come upon
+their track. When they have marked sufficient to fill all their
+casks, they turn their faces homeward, cut down the trees as they
+proceed, and having loaded their wagon with honey and wax, return
+well pleased to the settlements.
+
+Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as
+do the white men, and are the more delighted with this natural
+luxury from its having, in many instances, but recently made its
+appearance in their lands. The consequence is numberless disputes
+and conflicts between them and the bee hunters: and often a party
+of the latter, returning, laden with rich spoil, from one of
+their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the native lords of the
+soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut to pieces, and
+themselves left to find their way home the best way they can,
+happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound
+rib-roasting.
+
+Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume
+made the most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of
+the western part of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters
+on the frontier, and whose favorite hunting ground lies within
+the lands of the Kansas tribe. According to the account of White
+Plume, however, matters were pretty fairly balanced between him
+and the offenders; he having as often treated them to a taste of
+the bitter, as they had robbed him of the sweets.
+
+It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave
+proofs of having acquired some of the lights of civilization from
+his proximity to the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of
+driving a bargain. He required hard cash in return for some corn
+with which he supplied the worthy captain, and left the latter at
+a loss which most to admire, his native chivalry as a brave, or
+his acquired adroitness as a trader.
+
+
+
+                               3
+                                
+  Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills  Slabs of
+     sandstone Nebraska or Platte River Scanty fare Buffalo
+    skulls Wagons turned into boats  Herds of buffalo Cliffs
+ resembling castles The chimney Scott's Bluffs Story connected
+with them The bighorn or ahsahta Its nature and habits Difference
+ between that and the "woolly sheep," or goat of the mountains
+
+FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a
+western course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or
+shrub, rendered miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep
+water-courses where they had to dig roads for their wagons down
+the soft crumbling banks and to throw bridges across the streams.
+The weather had attained the summer heat; the thermometer
+standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning, early, but
+rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant breezes,
+however, which sweep these vast plains render the heats
+endurable. Game was scanty, and they had to eke out their scanty
+fare with wild roots and vegetables, such as the Indian potato,
+the wild onion, and the prairie tomato, and they met with
+quantities of "red root," from which the hunters make a very
+palatable beverage. The only human being that crossed their path
+was a Kansas warrior, returning from some solitary expedition of
+bravado or revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp as a trophy. 
+
+The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their
+route took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful
+prospects. The vast plain was studded on the west with
+innumerable hills of conical shape, such as are seen north of the
+Arkansas River. These hills have their summits apparently cut off
+about the same elevation, so as to leave flat surfaces at top. It
+is conjectured by some that the whole country may originally have
+been of the altitude of these tabular hills; but through some
+process of nature may have sunk to its present level; these
+insulated eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid
+rock. 
+
+Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north
+of Red River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable
+tracts of country, is covered with broad slabs of sandstone,
+having the form and position of grave-stones, and looking as if
+they had been forced up by some subterranean agitation. "The
+resemblance," says he, "which these very remarkable spots have in
+many places to old church-yards is curious in the extreme. One
+might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the pre-Adamites." 
+
+On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the
+Nebraska or Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the
+Great Island. The low banks of this river give it an appearance
+of great width. Captain Bonneville measured it in one place, and
+found it twenty-two hundred yards from bank to bank. Its depth
+was from three to six feet, the bottom full of quicksands. The
+Nebraska is studded with islands covered with that species of
+poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up along the course
+of this river for several days, they were obliged, from the
+scarcity of game, to put themselves upon short allowance, and,
+occasionally, to kill a steer. They bore their daily labors and
+privations, however, with great good humor, taking their tone, in
+all probability, from the buoyant spirit of their leader. "If the
+weather was inclement," said the captain, "we watched the clouds,
+and hoped for a sight of the blue sky and the merry sun. If food
+was scanty, we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon falling in
+with herds of buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and
+eat." We doubt whether the genial captain is not describing the
+cheeriness of his own breast, which gave a cheery aspect to
+everything around him. 
+
+There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not
+always equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a
+field decorated with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves,
+and other mathematical figures, as if for some mystic rite or
+ceremony. They were almost innumerable, and seemed to have been a
+vast hecatomb offered up in thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for
+some signal success in the chase. 
+
+On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where
+it divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of
+these branches rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters
+of the Arkansas. Up the course of this branch, as Captain
+Bonneville was well aware, lay the route to the Camanche and
+Kioway Indians, and to the northern Mexican settlements; of the
+other branch he knew nothing. Its sources might lie among wild
+and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and foam down rugged defiles
+and over craggy precipices; but its direction was in the true
+course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute his route
+to the Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from quicksands
+and other dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this
+neighborhood, he kept up along the south fork for two days,
+merely seeking a safe fording place. At length he encamped,
+caused the bodies of the wagons to be dislodged from the wheels,
+covered with buffalo hide, and besmeared with a compound of
+tallow and ashes; thus forming rude boats. In these, they ferried
+their effects across the stream, which was six hundred yards
+wide, with a swift and strong current. Three men were in each
+boat, to manage it; others waded across pushing the barks before
+them. Thus all crossed in safety. A march of nine miles took them
+over high rolling prairies to the north fork; their eyes being
+regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo at a distance,
+some careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in the
+natural meadows. 
+
+Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively
+annoyed by musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the
+evening of the 17th, a small but beautiful grove, from which
+issued the confused notes of singing birds, the first they had
+heard since crossing the boundary of Missouri. After so many days
+of weary travelling through a naked, monotonous and silent
+country, it was delightful once more to hear the song of the
+bird, and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was a beautiful
+sunset, and a sight of the glowing rays, mantling the tree-tops
+and rustling branches, gladdened every heart. They pitched their
+camp in the grove, kindled their fires, partook merrily of their
+rude fare, and resigned themselves to the sweetest sleep they had
+enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies. 
+
+The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced
+upon the river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave
+its banks and wind their course into the interior. In one of the
+wild and solitary passes they were startled by the trail of four
+or five pedestrians, whom they supposed to be spies from some
+predatory camp of either Arickara or Crow Indians. This obliged
+them to redouble their vigilance at night, and to keep especial
+watch upon their horses. In these rugged and elevated regions
+they began to see the black-tailed deer, a species larger than
+the ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and mountainous
+countries. They had reached also a great buffalo range; Captain
+Bonneville ascended a high bluff, commanding an extensive view of
+the surrounding plains. As far as his eye could reach, the
+country seemed absolutely blackened by innumerable herds. No
+language, he says, could convey an adequate idea of the vast
+living mass thus presented to his eye. He remarked that the bulls
+and cows generally congregated in separate herds. 
+
+Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon,
+which is among the curiosities of the country. It is called the
+chimney. The lower part is a conical mound, rising out of the
+naked plain; from the summit shoots up a shaft or column, about
+one hundred and twenty feet in height, from which it derives its
+name. The height of the whole, according to Captain Bonneville,
+is a hundred and seventy-five yards. It is composed of indurated
+clay, with alternate layers of red and white sandstone, and may
+be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles. 
+
+On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of
+indurated clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers,
+castles, churches, and fortified cities. At a distance, it was
+scarcely possible to persuade one's self that the works of art
+were not mingled with these fantastic freaks of nature. They have
+received the name of Scott's Bluffs, from a melancholy
+circumstance. A number of years since, a party were descending
+the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail barks
+were overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being
+thus rendered useless, they were unable to procure food by
+hunting and had to depend upon roots and wild fruits for
+subsistence. After suffering extremely from hunger, they arrived
+at Laramie's Fork, a small tributary of the north branch of the
+Nebraska, about sixty miles above the cliffs just mentioned. Here
+one of the party, by the name of Scott, was taken ill; and his
+companions came to a halt, until he should recover health and
+strength sufficient to proceed. While they were searching round
+in quest of edible roots, they discovered a fresh trail of white
+men, who had evidently but recently preceded them. What was to be
+done? By a forced march they might overtake this party, and thus
+be able to reach the settlements in safety. Should they linger,
+they might all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott, however,
+was incapable of moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward,
+and dreaded that such a clog would prevent their coming up with
+the advance party. They determined, therefore, to abandon him to
+his fate. Accordingly, under presence of seeking food, and such
+simples as might be efficacious in his malady, they deserted him
+and hastened forward upon the trail. They succeeded in overtaking
+the party of which they were in quest, but concealed their
+faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had died of
+disease.
+
+On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these
+parts in company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached
+bones and grinning skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain
+signs they recognized for the remains of Scott. This was sixty
+long miles from the place where they had abandoned him; and it
+appeared that the wretched man had crawled that immense distance
+before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and picturesque
+bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since
+borne his name.
+
+Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for
+the first time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an
+animal which frequents these cliffs in great numbers. They accord
+with the nature of such scenery, and add much to its romantic
+effect; bounding like goats from crag to crag, often trooping
+along the lofty shelves of the mountains, under the guidance of
+some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower than his
+muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice, so
+high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems
+a pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful
+situations, doubtless from a feeling of security. 
+
+This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often
+confounded with another animal, the "woolly sheep," found more to
+the northward, about the country of the Flatheads. The latter
+likewise inhabits cliffs in summer, but descends into the valleys
+in the winter. It has white wool, like a sheep, mingled with a
+thin growth of long hair; but it has short legs, a deep belly,
+and a beard like a goat. Its horns are about five inches long,
+slightly curved backwards, black as jet, and beautifully
+polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This animal is by no
+means so active as the bighorn; it does not bound much, but sits
+a good deal upon its haunches. It is not so plentiful either;
+rarely more than two or three are seen at a time. Its wool alone
+gives a resemblance to the sheep; it is more properly of the
+flesh is said to have a musty flavor; some have thought the
+fleece might be valuable, as it is said to be as fine as that of
+the goat Cashmere, but it is not to be procured in sufficient
+quantities. 
+
+The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair
+like a deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and
+horns of a sheep, and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton.
+The Indians consider it more sweet and delicate than any other
+kind of venison. It abounds in the Rocky Mountains, from the
+fiftieth degree of north latitude, quite down to California;
+generally in the highest regions capable of vegetation; sometimes
+it ventures into the valleys, but on the least alarm, regains its
+favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous, if not
+impossible for the hunter to follow.
+
+
+
+                               4
+                                
+ An alarm Crow Indians Their appearance Mode of approach Their
+vengeful errand Their curiosity Hostility between the Crows and
+  Blackfeet  Loving conduct of the Crows Laramie's Fork  First
+navigation of the Nebraska Great elevation of the country Rarity
+ of the atmosphere Its effect on the wood-work of wagons Black
+ Hills Their wild and broken scenery Indian dogs Crow trophies 
+  Sterile and dreary country Banks of the Sweet Water Buffalo
+         hunting Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook 
+
+WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his
+best hunters in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well
+as to look out for game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was
+slowly journeying up the banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came
+galloping back, waving their caps, and giving the alarm cry,
+Indians! Indians!
+
+The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up
+and announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just
+above, on the river. The captain knew the character of these
+savages; one of the most roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory
+tribes of the mountains; horse-stealers of the first order, and
+easily provoked to acts of sanguinary violence. Orders were
+accordingly given to prepare for action, and every one promptly
+took the post that had been assigned him in the general order of
+the march, in all cases of warlike emergency.
+
+Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead
+of his little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little
+while he beheld the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs.
+There were about sixty of them; fine martial-looking fellows,
+painted and arrayed for war, and mounted on horses decked out
+with all kinds of wild trappings. They came prancing along in
+gallant style, with many wild and dexterous evolutions, for none
+can surpass them in horsemanship; and their bright colors, and
+flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring and sparkling in
+the morning sunshine, gave them really a striking appearance.
+
+Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics
+and ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an
+air of direct hostility. They came galloping forward in a body,
+as if about to make a furious charge, but, when close at hand,
+opened to the right and left, and wheeled in wide circles round
+the travellers, whooping and yelling like maniacs.
+
+This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief,
+approaching the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though
+informed of the pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him
+the hand of friendship. The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all
+was good fellowship.
+
+The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had
+attacked their village in the night and killed one of their
+people. They had already been five and twenty days on the track
+of the marauders, and were determined not to return home until
+they had sated their revenge.
+
+A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the
+country at a distance from the main body, had discovered the
+party of Captain Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in
+secret, astonished at the long train of wagons and oxen, and
+especially struck with the sight of a cow and calf, quietly
+following the caravan; supposing them to be some kind of tame
+buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they carried back to
+their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He had, in
+consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold the
+wonders described to him. "Now that we have met you," said he to
+Captain Bonneville, "and have seen these marvels with our own
+eyes, our hearts are glad." In fact, nothing could exceed the
+curiosity evinced by these people as to the objects before them.
+Wagons had never been seen by them before, and they examined them
+with the greatest minuteness; but the calf was the peculiar
+object of their admiration. They watched it with intense interest
+as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and were struck
+with the mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect
+docility.
+
+After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it
+must be the "great medicine" of the white party; an appellation
+given by the Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious
+power that is guarded as a talisman. They were completely thrown
+out in their conjecture, however, by an offer of the white men to
+exchange the calf for a horse; their estimation of the great
+medicine sank in an instant, and they declined the bargain.
+
+At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped
+together, and passed the residue of the day in company. The
+captain was well pleased with every opportunity to gain a
+knowledge of the "unsophisticated sons of nature," who had so
+long been objects of his poetic speculations; and indeed this
+wild, horse-stealing tribe is one of the most notorious of the
+mountains. The chief, of course, had his scalps to show and his
+battles to recount. The Blackfoot is the hereditary enemy of the
+Crow, toward whom hostility is like a cherished principle of
+religion; for every tribe, besides its casual antagonists, has
+some enduring foe with whom there can be no permanent
+reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole, are
+enemies worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the
+first water. As their predatory excursions extend over the same
+regions, they often come in contact with each other, and these
+casual conflicts serve to keep their wits awake and their
+passions alive.
+
+The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the
+invidious character for which they are renowned. During the day
+and night that they were encamped in company with the travellers,
+their conduct was friendly in the extreme. They were, in fact,
+quite irksome in their attentions, and had a caressing manner at
+times quite importunate. It was not until after separation on the
+following morning that the captain and his men ascertained the
+secret of all this loving-kindness. In the course of their
+fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the pockets
+of their white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their
+coats, and, above all, to make free with their hunting knives.
+
+By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment,
+Captain Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41  47' north.
+The thermometer, at six o'clock in the morning, stood at
+fifty-nine degrees; at two o'clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees;
+and at six o'clock in the evening, at seventy degrees.
+
+The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a
+distance, printing the horizon with their rugged and broken
+outlines; and threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the
+way of the travellers.
+
+On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie's Fork, a
+clear and beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest,
+maintaining an average width of twenty yards, and winding through
+broad meadows abounding in currants and gooseberries, and adorned
+with groves and clumps of trees.
+
+By an observation of Jupiter's satellites, with a Dolland
+reflecting telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the
+longitude to be 102  57' west of Greenwich.
+
+We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about
+three years after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert
+Campbell, formerly of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended
+the Platte from this fork, in skin canoes, thus proving, what had
+always been discredited, that the river was navigable. About the
+same time, he built a fort or trading post at Laramie's Fork,
+which he named Fort William, after his friend and partner, Mr.
+William Sublette. Since that time, the Platte has become a
+highway for the fur traders.
+
+For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of
+the great elevation of country into which he was gradually
+ascending by the effect of the dryness and rarefaction of the
+atmosphere upon his wagons. The wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes
+of the wheels were continually working out, and it was necessary
+to support the spokes by stout props to prevent their falling
+asunder. The travellers were now entering one of those great
+steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity of the
+atmosphere renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these
+regions there is a fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but
+it is scanty and short, and parches up in the course of the
+summer, so that there is none for the hunters to set fire to in
+the autumn. It is a common observation that "above the forks of
+the Platte the grass does not burn." All attempts at agriculture
+and gardening in the neighborhood of Fort William have been
+attended with very little success. The grain and vegetables
+raised there have been scanty in quantity and poor in quality.
+The great elevation of these plains, and the dryness of the
+atmosphere, will tend to retain these immense regions in a state
+of pristine wildness.
+
+In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that
+wild and broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills,
+and here their journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged
+steeps and deep ravines incessantly obstructed their progress, so
+that a great part of the day was spent in the painful toil of
+digging through banks, filling up ravines, forcing the wagons up
+the most forbidding ascents, or swinging them with ropes down the
+face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of their horses were worn
+out, and their feet injured by the rugged and stony roads. The
+travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief storms, which
+would come hurrying over the hills, or through the mountain
+defiles, rage with great fury for a short time, and then pass
+off, leaving everything calm and serene again.
+
+For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian
+dogs, prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size
+of a large pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy
+tail--altogether, they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf.
+These skulking visitors would keep about the purlieus of the camp
+until daylight; when, on the first stir of life among the
+sleepers, they would scamper off until they reached some rising
+ground, where they would take their seats, and keep a sharp and
+hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers were
+fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving
+hangers-on would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the
+half-picked bones, the offal and garbage that lay about; and,
+having made a hasty meal, with many a snap and snarl and growl,
+would follow leisurely on the trail of the caravan. Many attempts
+were made to coax or catch them, but in vain. Their quick and
+suspicious eyes caught the slightest sinister movement, and they
+turned and scampered off. At length one was taken. He was
+terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled as if expecting
+instant death. Soothed, however, by caresses, he began after a
+time to gather confidence and wag his tail, and at length was
+brought to follow close at the heels of his captors, still,
+however, darting around furtive and suspicious glances, and
+evincing a disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm.
+
+On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed
+their path. They came in vaunting and vainglorious style;
+displaying five Cheyenne scalps, the trophies of their vengeance.
+They were now bound homewards, to appease the manes of their
+comrade by these proofs that his death had been revenged, and
+intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant rejoicings.
+Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means
+disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty
+savages, and above all, took care to avoid their pilfering
+caresses. They remarked one precaution of the Crows with respect
+to their horses; to protect their hoofs from the sharp and jagged
+rocks among which they had to pass, they had covered them with
+shoes of buffalo hide.
+
+The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the
+Nebraska or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories
+advanced to the margin of the stream, they were obliged to make
+inland circuits. One of these took them through a bold and stern
+country, bordered by a range of low mountains, running east and
+west.  Everything around bore traces of some fearful convulsion
+of nature in times long past. Hitherto the various strata of rock
+had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the southwest, but here
+everything appeared to have been subverted, and thrown out of
+place. In many places there were heavy beds of white sandstone
+resting upon red. Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags
+and cliffs; and sometimes formed perpendicular walls and
+overhanging precipices. An air of sterility prevailed over these
+savage wastes. The valleys were destitute of herbage, and
+scantily clothed with a stunted species of wormwood, generally
+known among traders and trappers by the name of sage. From an
+elevated point of their march through this region, the travellers
+caught a beautiful view of the Powder River Mountains away to the
+north, stretching along the very verge of the horizon, and
+seeming, from the snow with which they were mantled, to be a
+chain of small white clouds, connecting sky and earth.
+
+Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety,
+and even sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional
+spots of snow were to be seen on the tops of the low mountains,
+among which the travellers were journeying; proofs of the great
+elevation of the whole region.
+
+The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined
+to a much narrower channel than that through which it flows n the
+plains below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a
+stronger current. The scenery, also, is more varied and
+beautiful. Sometimes it glides rapidly but smoothly through a
+picturesque valley, between wooded banks; then, forcing its way
+into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes impetuously through
+narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and rapids, until
+it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley.
+
+On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream
+of the Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged
+promontories, and making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of
+days, part of the time over plains of loose sand, encamped on the
+14th on the banks of the Sweet Water, a stream about twenty yards
+in breadth, and four or five feet deep, flowing between low banks
+over a sandy soil, and forming one of the forks or upper branches
+of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now shaped their course for
+several successive days, tending, generally, to the west. The
+soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified.
+Frequently the plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock,
+sometimes in the shape of a half globe, and from three to four
+hundred feet high. These singular masses had occasionally a very
+imposing, and even sublime appearance, rising from the midst of a
+savage and lonely landscape.
+
+As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more
+sensible of the elevation of the country. The hills around were
+more generally capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and
+colics, sore lips and mouths, and violent headaches. The
+wood-work of the wagons also shrank so much that it was with
+difficulty the wheels were kept from falling to pieces. The
+country bordering upon the river was frequently gashed with deep
+ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to avoid which, the
+travellers were obliged to make wide circuits through the plains.
+In the course of these, they came upon immense herds of buffalo,
+which kept scouring off in the van, like a retreating army.
+
+Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw
+Irishman, who officiated as cook, whose various blunders and
+expedients in his novel situation, and in the wild scenes and
+wild kind of life into which he had suddenly been thrown, had
+made him a kind of butt or droll of the camp. Tom, however, began
+to discover an ambition superior to his station; and the
+conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their exploits,
+inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity of
+their order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a
+tempting opportunity for making his first essay. He rode, in the
+line of march, all prepared for action: his powder-flask and
+shot-pouch knowingly slung at the pommel of his saddle, to be at
+hand; his rifle balanced on his shoulder. While in this plight, a
+troop of Buffalo came trotting by in great alarm. In an instant,
+Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on foot. Finding they
+were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and pulled [the]
+trigger. His shot produced no other effect than to increase the
+speed of the buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to
+his heels, and scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom
+scampered after him, hallooing with might and main, and the wild
+horse and wild Irishman soon disappeared among the ravines of the
+prairie. Captain Bonneville, who was at the head of the line, and
+had seen the transaction at a distance, detached a party in
+pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they returned, leading the
+frightened horse; but though they had scoured the country, and
+looked out and shouted from every height, they had seen nothing
+of his rider.
+
+As Captain Bonneville knew Tom's utter awkwardness and
+inexperience, and the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the
+midst of a prairie, he halted and encamped at an early hour, that
+there might be a regular hunt for him in the morning.
+
+At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every
+direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly
+on its course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that
+the hunters returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them.
+They had found him in a complete state of perplexity and
+amazement. His appearance caused shouts of merriment in the
+camp,--but Tom for once could not join in the mirth raised at his
+expense: he was completely chapfallen, and apparently cured of
+the hunting mania for the rest of his life.
+
+
+
+                               5
+                                
+ Magnificent scenery Wind River Mountains Treasury of waters A
+stray horse An Indian trail  Trout streams The Great Green River
+      Valley  An alarm A band of trappers Fontenelle, his
+  information Sufferings of thirst Encampment on the Seeds-ke-
+  dee Strategy of rival traders  Fortification of the camp The
+ Blackfeet Banditti of the mountains Their character and habits
+
+IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in
+sight of the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the
+Rocky Mountains. He had been making a bend to the south, to avoid
+some obstacles along the river, and had attained a high, rocky
+ridge, when a magnificent prospect burst upon his sight. To the
+west rose the Wind River Mountains, with their bleached and snowy
+summits towering into the clouds. These stretched far to the
+north-northwest, until they melted away into what appeared to be
+faint clouds, but which the experienced eyes of the veteran
+hunters of the party recognized for the rugged mountains of the
+Yellowstone; at the feet of which extended the wild Crow country:
+a perilous, though profitable region for the trapper.
+
+To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of
+wilderness, with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon
+its horizon. This, however, was pointed out as another branch of
+the Great Chippewyan, or Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains,
+at whose basis the wandering tribe of hunters of the same name
+pitch their tents. We can imagine the enthusiasm of the worthy
+captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous scene of his
+adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him. We can
+imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have
+contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that
+great fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted
+snows some of those mighty rivers take their rise, which wander
+over hundreds of miles of varied country and clime, and find
+their way to the opposite waves of the Atlantic and the Pacific.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable
+of the whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the
+loftiest. They form, as it were, a great bed of mountains, about
+eighty miles in length, and from twenty to thirty in breadth;
+with rugged peaks, covered with eternal snows, and deep, narrow
+valleys full of springs, and brooks, and rock-bound lakes. From
+this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid streams, which,
+augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of the
+Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give
+rise to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado
+of the West, that empties its current into the Gulf of
+California.
+
+The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters' and trappers'
+stories: their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their
+neighborhood, having been lurking places for the predatory hordes
+of the mountains, and scenes of rough encounter with Crows and
+Blackfeet. It was to the west of these mountains, in the valley
+of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, that Captain Bonneville
+intended to make a halt for the purpose of giving repose to his
+people and his horses after their weary journeying; and of
+collecting information as to his future course. This Green River
+valley, and its immediate neighborhood, as we have already
+observed, formed the main point of rendezvous, for the present
+year, of the rival fur companies, and the motley populace,
+civilized and savage, connected with them. Several days of rugged
+travel, however, yet remained for the captain and his men before
+they should encamp in this desired resting-place.
+
+On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through
+one of the meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse
+grazing at a little distance. He showed no alarm at their
+approach, but suffered himself quietly to be taken, evincing a
+perfect state of tameness. The scouts of the party were instantly
+on the look-out for the owners of this animal; lest some
+dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity. After
+a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party,
+which had evidently passed through that neighborhood but
+recently. The horse was accordingly taken possession of, as an
+estray; but a more vigilant watch than usual was kept round the
+camp at nights, lest his former owners should be upon the prowl.
+
+The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the
+23d of July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the
+waterbuckets, and the thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees.
+The rarefy of the atmosphere continued to affect the wood-work of
+the wagons, and the wheels were incessantly falling to pieces. A
+remedy was at length devised. The tire of each wheel was taken
+off; a band of wood was nailed round the exterior of the felloes,
+the tire was then made red hot, replaced round the wheel, and
+suddenly cooled with water. By this means, the whole was bound
+together with great compactness.
+
+The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along
+the feet of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming
+height of their peaks, which yield to few in the known world in
+point of altitude above the level of the sea.
+
+On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water,
+and keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of
+the most southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they
+encamped, after a march of seven hours and a half, on the banks
+of a small clear stream, running to the south, in which they
+caught a number of fine trout.
+
+The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that
+they had reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it
+is only on the western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout
+are to be taken. The stream on which they had thus encamped
+proved, in effect, to be tributary to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or
+Green River, into which it flowed at some distance to the south.
+
+Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed
+the crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of
+exultation in being the first individual that had crossed, north
+of the settled provinces of Mexico, from the waters of the
+Atlantic to those of the Pacific, with wagons. Mr. William
+Sublette, the enterprising leader of the Rocky Mountain Fur
+Company, had, two or three years previously, reached the valley
+of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the mountains;
+but had proceeded with them no further.
+
+A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on
+one side by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long
+range of high hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a
+veteran hunter in his company, was the great valley of the
+Seedske-dee; and the same informant would have fain persuaded him
+that a small stream, three feet deep, which he came to on the
+25th, was that river. The captain was convinced, however, that
+the stream was too insignificant to drain so wide a valley and
+the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an early hour,
+on its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day to
+reach the main river; which he presumed to flow between him and
+the distant range of western hills.
+
+On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour,
+making directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west;
+proceeding at as brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his
+horses would permit. About eleven o'clock in the morning, a great
+cloud of dust was descried in the rear, advancing directly on the
+trail of the party. The alarm was given; they all came to a halt,
+and held a council of war. Some conjectured that the band of
+Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the neighborhood of
+the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some secret
+fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on the
+open plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations were
+immediately made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to
+reconnoitre. They soon came galloping back, making signals that
+all was well. The cloud of dust was made by a band of fifty or
+sixty mounted trappers, belonging to the American Fur Company,
+who soon came up, leading their pack-horses. They were headed by
+Mr. Fontenelle, an experienced leader, or "partisan," as a chief
+of a party is called in the technical language of the trappers.
+
+Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way
+from the company's trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly
+rendezvous, with reinforcements and supplies for their hunting
+and trading parties beyond the mountains; and that he expected to
+meet, by appointment, with a band of free trappers in that very
+neighborhood. He had fallen upon the trail of Captain
+Bonneville's party, just after leaving the Nebraska; and, finding
+that they had frightened off all the game, had been obliged to
+push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men and horses
+were, therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to halt;
+the plain before them he said was destitute of grass and water,
+neither of which would be met with short of the Green River,
+which was yet at a considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as
+his party were all on horseback, to reach the river, with hard
+travelling, by nightfall: but he doubted the possibility of
+Captain Bonneville's arrival there with his wagons before the day
+following. Having imparted this information, he pushed forward
+with all speed.
+
+Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would
+permit. The ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too
+much fatigued to move rapidly. After a long and harassing day's
+march, without pausing for a noontide meal, they were compelled,
+at nine o'clock at night, to encamp in an open plain, destitute
+of water or pasturage. On the following morning, the horses were
+turned loose at the peep of day; to slake their thirst, if
+possible, from the dew collected on the sparse grass, here and
+there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a great part
+of this Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the rain
+cannot penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In
+some places it produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins
+of the streams; but the wider expanses of it are desolate and
+barren. It was not until noon that Captain Bonneville reached the
+banks of the Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of the West; in the
+meantime, the sufferings of both men and horses had been
+excessive, and it was with almost frantic eagerness that they
+hurried to allay their burning thirst in the limpid current of
+the river.
+
+Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief
+part had managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly
+knocked up by the exertion; the horses of others sank under them,
+and they were obliged to pass the night upon the road.
+
+On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp
+across the river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little
+distance below, where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding
+abundant pasturage. Here the poor jaded horses were turned out to
+graze, and take their rest: the weary journey up the mountains
+had worn them down in flesh and spirit; but this last march
+across the thirsty plain had nearly finished them.
+
+The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of
+the fur trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in
+company with Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to
+win over a number of Delaware Indians whom the captain had
+brought with him, by offering them four hundred dollars each for
+the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was somewhat astonished
+when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had calculated
+securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the rival
+camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his
+competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of
+free trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood,
+and to endeavor to bring them to his camp.
+
+As it would be necessary to remain some time in this
+neighborhood, that both men and horses might repose, and recruit
+their strength; and as it was a region full of danger, Captain
+Bonneville proceeded to fortify his camp with breastworks of logs
+and pickets.
+
+These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from
+the bands of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the
+neighborhood. These savages are the most dangerous banditti of
+the mountains, and the inveterate foe of the trappers. They are
+Ishmaelites of the first order, always with weapon in hand, ready
+for action. The young braves of the tribe, who are destitute of
+property, go to war for booty; to gain horses, and acquire the
+means of setting up a lodge, supporting a family, and entitling
+themselves to a seat in the public councils. The veteran warriors
+fight merely for the love of the thing, and the consequence which
+success gives them among their people.
+
+They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on
+short, stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with
+at St. Louis. When on a war party, however, they go on foot, to
+enable them to skulk through the country with greater secrecy; to
+keep in thickets and ravines, and use more adroit subterfuges and
+stratagems. Their mode of warfare is entirely by ambush,
+surprise, and sudden assaults in the night time. If they succeed
+in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury: if the
+enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, they become
+wary and deliberate in their movements.
+
+Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and
+arrows; the greater part have American fusees, made after the
+fashion of those of the Hudson's Bay Company. These they procure
+at the trading post of the American Fur Company, on Marias River,
+where they traffic their peltries for arms, ammunition, clothing,
+and trinkets. They are extremely fond of spirituous liquors and
+tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready to exchange not
+merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and daughters.
+As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking
+hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed
+by Mr. Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring
+expedition across the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company
+is obliged constantly to keep at that post a garrison of sixty or
+seventy men.
+
+Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several
+tribes: such as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and
+the Gros Ventres of the Prairies: who roam about the southern
+branches of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers, together with
+some other tribes further north.
+
+The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country
+adjacent at the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres
+of the Prairies, which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres
+of the Missouri, who keep about the lower part of that river, and
+are friendly to the white men.
+
+This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and
+numbers about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of
+two or three years they abandon their usual abodes, and make a
+visit to the Arapahoes of the Arkansas. Their route lies either
+through the Crow country, and the Black Hills, or through the
+lands of the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As
+they enjoy their favorite state of hostility with all these
+tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted in the most
+lawless and predatory style; nor do they hesitate to extend their
+maraudings to any party of white men they meet with; following
+their trails; hovering about their camps; waylaying and dogging
+the caravans of the free traders, and murdering the solitary
+trapper. The consequences are frequent and desperate fights
+between them and the "mountaineers," in the wild defiles and
+fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward
+from one of their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the
+ensuing chapter we shall treat of some bloody encounters between
+them and the trappers, which had taken place just before the
+arrival of Captain Bonneville among the mountains.
+
+
+
+                               6
+                                
+                                
+                                
+ Sublette and his band Robert Campbell Mr. Wyeth and a band of
+"down-easters"  Yankee enterprise  Fitzpatrick His adventure with
+the Blackfeet A rendezvous of mountaineers The battle of Pierre's
+           Hole An Indian ambuscade Sublette's return
+
+
+LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their
+fortified camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and
+accompany a party of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its
+progress, with supplies from St. Louis, to the annual rendezvous
+at Pierre's Hole. This party consisted of sixty men, well
+mounted, and conducting a line of packhorses. They were commanded
+by Captain William Sublette, a partner in the company, and one of
+the most active, intrepid, and renowned leaders in this half
+military kind of service. He was accompanied by his associate in
+business, and tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert Campbell, one
+of the pioneers of the trade beyond the mountains, who had
+commanded trapping parties there in times of the greatest peril.
+
+As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier,
+they fell in with another expedition, likewise on its way to the
+mountains. This was a party of regular "down-easters," that is to
+say, people of New England, who, with the all-penetrating and
+all-pervading spirit of their race, were now pushing their way
+into a new field of enterprise with which they were totally
+unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and was maintained
+and commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This
+gentleman had conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for
+salmon might be established on the Columbia River, and connected
+with the fur trade. He had, accordingly, invested capital in
+goods, calculated, as he supposed, for the Indian trade, and had
+enlisted a number of eastern men in his employ, who had never
+been in the Far West, nor knew anything of the wilderness. With
+these, he was bravely steering his way across the continent,
+undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same way
+that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch
+forth on a voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the
+Pacific.
+
+With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth
+and his men felt themselves completely at a loss when they
+reached the frontier, and found that the wilderness required
+experience and habitudes of which they were totally deficient.
+Not one of the party, excepting the leader, had ever seen an
+Indian or handled a rifle; they were without guide or
+interpreter, and totally unacquainted with "wood craft" and the
+modes of making their way among savage hordes, and subsisting
+themselves during long marches over wild mountains and barren
+plains.
+
+In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner
+becalmed, or rather run aground, at the little frontier town of
+Independence, in Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two
+parties travelled amicably together; the frontier men of
+Sublette's party gave their Yankee comrades some lessons in
+hunting, and some insight into the art and mystery of dealing
+with the Indians, and they all arrived without accident at the
+upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River.
+
+In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the
+company who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came
+down from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole to meet them and hurry
+them forward. He travelled in company with them until they
+reached the Sweet Water; then taking a couple of horses, one for
+the saddle, and the other as a pack-horse, he started off express
+for Pierre's Hole, to make arrangements against their arrival,
+that he might commence his hunting campaign before the rival
+company.
+
+Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all
+the passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up
+the Green River valley, he described several horsemen at a
+distance, and came to a halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to
+be some detachment from the rendezvous, or a party of friendly
+Indians. They perceived him, and setting up the war-whoop, dashed
+forward at full speed: he saw at once his mistake and his
+peril--they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his fleetest horse,
+and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for the mountains,
+and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous defiles.
+Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone
+off, when he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost
+his remaining horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the
+cliffs. For several days he remained lurking among rocks and
+precipices, and almost famished, having but one remaining charge
+in his rifle, which he kept for self-defence.
+
+In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow
+traveller, Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived
+in the Green River valley, totally unconscious that there was any
+lurking enemy at hand. They had encamped one night on the banks
+of a small stream, which came down from the Wind River Mountains,
+when about midnight, a band of Indians burst upon their camp,
+with horrible yells and whoops, and a discharge of guns and
+arrows. Happily no other harm was done than wounding one mule,
+and causing several horses to break loose from their pickets. The
+camp was instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with yells
+of exultation, carrying off several of the horses under cover of
+the night.
+
+This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to
+some of Wyeth's band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful
+life of New England; nor was it altogether to the taste of
+Captain Sublette's men, who were chiefly creoles and townsmen
+from St. Louis. They continued their march the next morning,
+keeping scouts ahead and upon their flanks, and arrived without
+further molestation at Pierre's Hole.
+
+The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the
+rendezvous, was for Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any
+intelligence been received concerning him. Great uneasiness was
+now entertained, lest he should have fallen into the hands of the
+Blackfeet who had made the midnight attack upon the camp. It was
+a matter of general joy, therefore, when he made his appearance,
+conducted by two half-breed Iroquois hunters. He had lurked for
+several days among the mountains, until almost starved; at length
+he escaped the vigilance of his enemies in the night, and was so
+fortunate as to meet the two Iroquois hunters, who, being on
+horseback, conveyed him without further difficulty to the
+rendezvous. He arrived there so emaciated that he could scarcely
+be recognized.
+
+The valley called Pierre's Hole is about thirty miles in length
+and fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and
+broken ridges, and overlooked to the east by three lofty
+mountains, called the three Tetons, which domineer as landmarks
+over a vast extent of country.
+
+A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours
+through the valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly
+equal parts. The meadows on its borders are broad and extensive,
+covered with willow and cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked
+and matted together as to be nearly impassable.
+
+In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with
+the fur trade. Here the two rival companies had their
+encampments, with their retainers of all kinds: traders,
+trappers, hunters, and half-breeds, assembled from all quarters,
+awaiting their yearly supplies, and their orders to start off in
+new directions. Here, also, the savage tribes connected with the
+trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish Indians, and Flatheads, had
+pitched their lodges beside the streams, and with their squaws,
+awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There was,
+moreover, a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant
+leader from Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a
+little apart from the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous
+assemblage, amounting to several hundred men, civilized and
+savage, distributed in tents and lodges in the several camps.
+
+The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky
+Mountain Fur Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise
+were quickly opened, and as quickly disposed of to trappers and
+Indians; the usual excitement and revelry took place, after which
+all hands began to disperse to their several destinations.
+
+On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by
+Milton Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the
+intention of proceeding to the southwest. They were accompanied
+by Sinclair and his fifteen free trappers; Wyeth, also, and his
+New England band of beaver hunters and salmon fishers, now
+dwindled down to eleven, took this opportunity to prosecute their
+cruise in the wilderness, accompanied with such experienced
+pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about eight miles to the
+southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the valley of
+Pierre's Hole. On the following morning, just as they were
+raising their camp, they observed a long line of people pouring
+down a defile of the mountains. They at first supposed them to be
+Fontenelle and his party, whose arrival had been daily expected.
+Wyeth, however, reconnoitred them with a spy-glass, and soon
+perceived they were Indians. They were divided into two parties,
+forming, in the whole, about one hundred and fifty persons, men,
+women, and children. Some were on horseback, fantastically
+painted and arrayed, with scarlet blankets fluttering in the
+wind. The greater part, however, were on foot. They had perceived
+the trappers before they were themselves discovered, and came
+down yelling and whooping into the plain. On nearer approach,
+they were ascertained to be Blackfeet.
+
+One of the trappers of Sublette's brigade, a half-breed named
+Antoine Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to
+hold a conference. He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had
+been cruelly murdered by the Blackfeet at a small stream below
+the mountains, which still bears his name. In company with
+Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose once powerful tribe
+had been completely broken down in their wars with the Blackfeet.
+Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful hostility
+against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came to a
+halt. One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the
+pipe of peace. This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine
+and the Flathead were predisposed to hostility, and pretended to
+consider it a treacherous movement.
+
+"Is your piece charged?" said Antoine to his red companion.
+
+"It is."
+
+"Then cock it, and follow me."
+
+They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in
+friendship. Antoine grasped it.
+
+"Fire! " cried he.
+
+The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the
+ground. Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was
+richly ornamented, and galloped off with it as a trophy to the
+camp, the bullets of the enemy whistling after him. The Indians
+immediately threw themselves into the edge of a swamp, among
+willows and cotton-wood trees, interwoven with vines. Here they
+began to fortify themselves; the women digging a trench, and
+throwing up a breastwork of logs and branches, deep hid in the
+bosom of the wood, while the warriors skirmished at the edge to
+keep the trappers at bay.
+
+The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they
+kept up a scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of
+"downeasters," they were perfectly astounded by this second
+specimen of life in the wilderness; the men, being especially
+unused to bushfighting and the use of the rifle, were at a loss
+how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as a skilful commander. He
+got all his horses into camp and secured them; then, making a
+breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to remain in
+garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself, he
+mingled with the other leaders, determined to take his share in
+the conflict.
+
+In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous
+for reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate,
+Campbell, were at their camp when the express came galloping
+across the plain, waving his cap, and giving the alarm;
+"Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper part of the
+valley!--to arms! to arms!"
+
+The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause.
+Every one turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and
+Flatheads joined. As fast as horseman could arm and mount he
+galloped off; the valley was soon alive with white men and red
+men scouring at full speed.
+
+Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from
+St. Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend
+Campbell prepared for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling
+up their sleeves, and arming themselves with pistols and rifles,
+they mounted their horses and dashed forward among the first. As
+they rode along, they made their wills in soldier-like style;
+each stating how his effects should be disposed of in case of his
+death, and appointing the other his executor.
+
+The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton
+Sublette all the foes they had to deal with, and were astonished
+to behold the whole valley suddenly swarming with horsemen,
+galloping to the field of action. They withdrew into their fort,
+which was completely hid from sight in the dark and tangled wood.
+Most of their women and children had retreated to the mountains.
+The trappers now sallied forth and approached the swamp, firing
+into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet had a better sight at
+their adversaries, who were in the open field, and a half-breed
+was wounded in the shoulder.
+
+When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp
+and storm the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal
+horrors of the place, and the danger of attacking such
+desperadoes in their savage den. The very Indian allies, though
+accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as almost impenetrable,
+and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to be turned from
+his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp. Campbell
+stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous
+wood, Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in
+case he fell, Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his
+executor. This done, he grasped his rifle and pushed into the
+thickets, followed by Campbell. Sinclair, the partisan from
+Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with his brother and a few
+of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the two friends, he
+pressed forward to share their dangers.
+
+The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by
+damming up a stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The
+place was all overgrown with woods and thickets, so closely
+matted and entangled that it was impossible to see ten paces
+ahead, and the three associates in peril had to crawl along, one
+after another, making their way by putting the branches and vines
+aside; but doing it with caution, lest they should attract the
+eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by turns, each
+advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then
+hallooing to their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually
+entered the swamp, and followed a little distance in their rear.
+
+They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had
+glimpses of the rude fortress from between the trees. It was a
+mere breastwork, as we have said, of logs and branches, with
+blankets, buffalo robes, and the leathern covers of lodges,
+extended round the top as a screen. The movements of the leaders,
+as they groped their way, had been descried by the sharp-sighted
+enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was putting some
+branches aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on the
+spot. "Take me to my brother,'' said he to Campbell. The latter
+gave him in charge to some of the men, who conveyed him out of
+the swamp.
+
+Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort,
+he perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant
+his rifle was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the
+savage in the eye. While he was reloading, he called to Campbell,
+and pointed out to him the hole; "Watch that place," said he,
+"and you will soon have a fair chance for a shot." Scarce had he
+uttered the words, when a ball struck him in the shoulder, and
+almost wheeled him around. His first thought was to take hold of
+his arm with his other hand, and move it up and down. He
+ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken.
+The next moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell
+took him in his arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same
+shot that struck Sublette wounded another man in the head.
+
+A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood,
+answered occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and
+their allies, in searching for the fort, had got scattered, so
+that Wyeth, and a number of Nez Perces, approached the fort on
+the northwest side, while others did the same on the opposite
+quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, which occasionally did
+mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian was shot down,
+close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had been sped
+from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort.
+
+The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so
+much increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the
+Blackfeet were completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in
+their fort, however, making no offer of surrender. An occasional
+firing into the breastwork was kept up during the day. Now and
+then, one of the Indian allies, in bravado, would rush up to the
+fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a buffalo robe or a
+scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his comrades.
+Most of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in
+the first part of the attack.
+
+At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the
+squaws belonging to the allies were employed to collect
+combustibles. This however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being
+unwilling to destroy the robes and blankets, and other spoils of
+the enemy, which they felt sure would fall into their hands.
+
+The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each
+other. During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the
+Blackfeet chief was heard.
+
+"So long," said he, "as we had powder and ball, we fought you in
+the open field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die
+with our women and children. You may burn us in our fort; but,
+stay by our ashes, and you who are so hungry for fighting will
+soon have enough. There are four hundred lodges of our brethren
+at hand. They will soon be here--their arms are strong--their
+hearts are big--they will avenge us!"
+
+This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and
+creole interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English,
+the chief was made to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe
+were attacking the encampment at the other end of the valley.
+Every one now was for hurrying to the defence of the rendezvous.
+A party was left to keep watch upon the fort; the rest galloped
+off to the camp. As night came on, the trappers drew out of the
+swamp, and remained about the skirts of the wood. By morning,
+their companions returned from the rendezvous with the report
+that all was safe. As the day opened, they ventured within the
+swamp and approached the fort. All was silent. They advanced up
+to it without opposition. They entered: it had been abandoned in
+the night, and the Blackfeet had effected their retreat, carrying
+off their wounded on litters made of branches, leaving bloody
+traces on the herbage. The bodies of ten Indians were found
+within the fort; among them the one shot in the eye by Sublette.
+The Blackfeet afterward reported that they had lost twenty-six
+warriors in this battle. Thirty-two horses were likewise found
+killed; among them were some of those recently carried off from
+Sublette's party, in the night; which showed that these were the
+very savages that had attacked him. They proved to be an advance
+party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon the
+trail of Sublette's party. Five white men and one halfbreed were
+killed, and several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also
+killed, and six wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed
+as invulnerable. In the course of the action he was hit by a
+spent ball, and threw up blood; but his skin was unbroken. His
+people were now fully convinced that he was proof against powder
+and ball.
+
+A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning
+after the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies
+were approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an
+Indian woman, of noble form and features, leaning against a tree.
+Their surprise at her lingering here alone, to fall into the
+hands of her enemies, was dispelled, when they saw the corpse of
+a warrior at her feet. Either she was so lost in grief as not to
+perceive their approach; or a proud spirit kept her silent and
+motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on discovering her, and
+before the trappers could interfere, her mangled body fell upon
+the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have heard this
+anecdote discredited by one of the leaders who had been in the
+battle: but the fact may have taken place without his seeing it,
+and been concealed from him. It is an instance of female
+devotion, even to the death, which we are well disposed to
+believe and to record.
+
+After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with
+the free trappers, and Wyeth's New England band, remained some
+days at the rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet
+intended to make an attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they
+once more put themselves in motion, and proceeded on their route
+toward the southwest. Captain Sublette having distributed his
+supplies, had intended to set off on his return to St. Louis,
+taking with him the peltries collected from the trappers and
+Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his
+departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became
+impatient of this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr.
+Joseph More, one of the followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen
+enough of mountain life and savage warfare, and was eager to
+return to the abodes of civilization. He and six others, among
+whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred K. Stephens, of
+St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel Boon, set
+out together, in advance of Sublette's party, thinking they would
+make their way through the mountains.
+
+It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these
+seven companions were making their way through Jackson's Hole, a
+valley not far from the three Tetons, when, as they were
+descending a hill, a party of Blackfeet that lay in ambush
+started up with terrific yells. The horse of the young Bostonian,
+who was in front, wheeled round with affright, and threw his
+unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up the side of the hill,
+but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his presence of mind,
+and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank, until the
+Blackfeet came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had fled
+on the first alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing his
+danger, paused when they got half way up the hill, turned back,
+dismounted, and hastened to his assistance. Foy was instantly
+killed. Stephens was severely wounded, but escaped, to die five
+days afterward. The survivors returned to the camp of Captain
+Sublette, bringing tidings of this new disaster. That hardy
+leader, as soon as he could bear the journey, set out on his
+return to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As they had a
+number of pack-horses richly laden with peltries to convoy, they
+chose a different route through the mountains, out of the way, as
+they hoped, of the lurking bands of Blackfeet. They succeeded in
+making the frontier in safety. We remember to have seen them with
+their band, about two or three months afterward, passing through
+a skirt of woodland in the upper part of Missouri. Their long
+cavalcade stretched in single file for nearly half a mile.
+Sublette still wore his arm in a sling. The mountaineers in their
+rude hunting dresses, armed with rifles and roughly mounted, and
+leading their pack-horses down a hill of the forest, looked like
+banditti returning with plunder. On the top of some of the packs
+were perched several half-breed children, perfect little imps,
+with wild black eyes glaring from among elf locks. These, I was
+told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love from their
+squaw spouses in the wilderness.
+
+
+
+                              7. 
+                                
+  Retreat of the Blackfeet Fontenelle's camp in danger Captain
+  Bonneville and the Blackfeet  Free trappers Their character,
+habits, dress, equipments, horses Game fellows of the mountains 
+   Their visit to the camp Good fellowship and good cheer  A
+        carouse A swagger, a brawl, and a reconciliation
+
+THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat
+from their wild fastness in Pierre's Hole, fell back into the
+valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the
+main body of their band. The whole force amounted to several
+hundred fighting men, gloomy and exasperated by their late
+disaster. They had with them their wives and children, which
+incapacitated them from any bold and extensive enterprise of a
+warlike nature; but when, in the course of their wanderings they
+came in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who had moved some
+distance up Green River valley in search of the free trappers,
+they put up tremendous war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if to
+attack it. Second thoughts caused them to moderate their fury.
+They recollected the severe lesson just received, and could not
+but remark the strength of Fontenelle's position; which had been
+chosen with great judgment.
+
+A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late
+battle, of which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the
+latter, however, knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these
+savages, and took care to inform them of the encampment of
+Captain Bonneville, that they might know there were more white
+men in the neighborhood. The conference ended, Fontenelle sent a
+Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen of the Blackfeet
+to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic] at that time
+two Crow Indians in the captain's camp, who had recently arrived
+there. They looked with dismay at this deputation from their
+implacable enemies, and gave the captain a terrible character of
+them, assuring him that the best thing he could possibly do, was
+to put those Blackfeet deputies to death on the spot. The
+captain, however, who had heard nothing of the conflict at
+Pierre's Hole, declined all compliance with this sage counsel. He
+treated the grim warriors with his usual urbanity. They passed
+some little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that everything was
+conducted with military skill and vigilance; and that such an
+enemy was not to be easily surprised, nor to be molested with
+impunity, and then departed, to report all that they had seen to
+their comrades.
+
+The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for
+the band of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite
+them to his camp, had been successful in their search, and on the
+12th of August those worthies made their appearance.
+
+To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is
+necessary to state the terms on which the men enlist in the
+service of the fur companies. Some have regular wages, and are
+furnished with weapons, horses, traps, and other requisites.
+These are under command, and bound to do every duty required of
+them connected with the service; such as hunting, trapping,
+loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard; and, in short,
+all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired trappers.
+
+The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing
+them, we shall do little more than transcribe the graphic
+description of them by Captain Bonneville. "They come and go,"
+says he, "when and where they please; provide their own horses,
+arms, and other equipments; trap and trade on their own account,
+and dispose of their skins and peltries to the highest bidder.
+Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they attach themselves
+to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they come under
+some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules for
+trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in
+such general duties, as are established for the good order and
+safety of the camp. In return for this protection, and for their
+camp keeping, they are bound to dispose of all the beaver they
+take, to the trader who commands the camp, at a certain rate per
+skin; or, should they prefer seeking a market elsewhere, they are
+to make him an allowance, of from thirty to forty dollars for the
+whole hunt."
+
+There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty,
+come to these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or
+accoutrements, and are furnished by the traders. These, like the
+hired trappers, are bound to exert themselves to the utmost in
+taking beaver, which, without skinning, they render in at the
+trader's lodge, where a stipulated price for each is placed to
+their credit. These though generally included in the generic name
+of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin trappers.
+
+The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the
+savages have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes;
+but none more so than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity
+and ambition with them to discard everything that may bear the
+stamp of civilized life, and to adopt the manners, habits, dress,
+gesture, and even walk of the Indian. You cannot pay a free
+trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade him you have
+mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the counterfeit
+is complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length, is
+carefully combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over his
+shoulders, or plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or
+parti-colored ribands. A hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of
+bright dyes, or of ornamented leather, falls to his knee; below
+which, curiously fashioned legging, ornamented with strings,
+fringes, and a profusion of hawks' bells, reach to a costly pair
+of moccasons of the finest Indian fabric, richly embroidered with
+beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some other bright color, hangs
+from his shoulders, and is girt around his waist with a red sash,
+in which he bestows his pistols, knife, and the stem of his
+Indian pipe; preparations either for peace or war. His gun is
+lavishly decorated with brass tacks and vermilion, and provided
+with a fringed cover, occasionally of buckskin, ornamented here
+and there with a feather. His horse, the noble minister to the
+pride, pleasure, and profit of the mountaineer, is selected for
+his speed and spirit, and prancing gait, and holds a place in his
+estimation second only to himself. He shares largely of his
+bounty, and of his pride and pomp of trapping. He is caparisoned
+in the most dashing and fantastic style; the bridles and crupper
+are weightily embossed with beads and cockades; and head, mane,
+and tail, are interwoven with abundance of eagles' plumes, which
+flutter in the wind. To complete this grotesque equipment, the
+proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted with vermilion, or with
+white clay, whichever presents the most glaring contrast to his
+real color.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers
+of the wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was
+strikingly characteristic. They came dashing forward at full
+speed, firing their fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their
+dark sunburned faces, and long flowing hair, their legging,
+flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed blankets, and their painted
+horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them so much the air and
+appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to persuade one's
+self that they were white men, and had been brought up in
+civilized life.
+
+Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these
+cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp,
+and ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon
+put them in the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the
+captain the finest fellow in the world, and his men all bons
+gar�ons, jovial lads, and swore they would pass the day with
+them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, and swagger, and
+rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the free trappers
+had each his circle of novices, from among the captain's band;
+mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard, or
+pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the
+veterans of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight
+by the hour, with prodigious tales of his doings among the
+Indians; and of the wonders he had seen, and the wonders he had
+performed, in his adventurous peregrinations among the mountains.
+
+In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the
+camp of Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with
+their new acquaintances, and promising to return the following
+day. They kept their word: day after day their visits were
+repeated; they became "hail fellow well met" with Captain
+Bonneville's men; treat after treat succeeded, until both parties
+got most potently convinced, or rather confounded, by liquor. Now
+came on confusion and uproar. The free trappers were no longer
+suffered to have all the swagger to themselves. The camp bullies
+and prime trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and to brag,
+in turn, of their perils and achievements. Each now tried to
+out-boast and out-talk the other; a quarrel ensued as a matter of
+course, and a general fight, according to frontier usage. The two
+factions drew out their forces for a pitched battle. They fell to
+work and belabored each other with might and main; kicks and
+cuffs and dry blows were as well bestowed as they were well
+merited, until, having fought to their hearts' content, and been
+drubbed into a familiar acquaintance with each other's prowess
+and good qualities, they ended the fight by becoming firmer
+friends than they could have been rendered by a year's peaceable
+companionship.
+
+While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits
+and characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged
+them, for the time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the
+opportunity to collect from them information concerning the
+different parts of the country about which they had been
+accustomed to range; the characters of the tribes, and, in short,
+everything important to his enterprise. He also succeeded in
+securing the services of several to guide and aid him in his
+peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during
+the ensuing season. Having strengthened his party with such
+valuable recruits, he felt in some measure consoled for the loss
+of the Delaware Indians, decoyed from him by Mr Fontenelle.
+
+
+
+                               8.
+                                
+Plans for the winter Salmon River Abundance of salmon west of the
+mountains New arrangements  Caches Cerre's detachment Movements
+     in Fontenelle's camp Departure of the Blackfeet Their
+fortunes Wind Mountain streams Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and
+the grizzly bear Bones of murdered travellers Visit to Pierre's
+ Hole Traces of the battle Nez Perce Indians Arrival at Salmon
+                             River
+
+THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain
+Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the
+Green River valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently
+falling to the depth of several feet; and that there was no good
+wintering ground in the neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon
+River was represented as far more eligible, besides being in an
+excellent beaver country; and thither the captain resolved to
+bend his course.
+
+The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or
+Columbia; and takes its rise from various sources, among a group
+of mountains to the northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes
+its name to the immense shoals of salmon which ascend it in the
+months of September and October. The salmon on the west side of
+the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo on the eastern plains,
+vast migratory supplies for the wants of man, that come and go
+with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs find their
+certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along the
+fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile
+of the mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons,
+regulated by a sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in
+myriads up the great rivers, and find their way up their main
+branches, and into the minutest tributory streams; so as to
+pervade the great arid plains, and to penetrate even among barren
+mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in the desert places of
+the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the animals of the
+chase, and where, but for these periodical supplies, it would be
+impossible for man to subsist.
+
+The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific
+render the ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the
+fish first run up the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The
+struggle against impetuous streams and frequent rapids gradually
+renders them thin and weak, and great numbers are seen floating
+down the rivers on their backs. As the season advances and the
+water becomes chilled, they are flung in myriads on the shores,
+where the wolves and bears assemble to banquet on them. Often
+they rot in such quantities along the river banks as to taint the
+atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet long.
+
+Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and
+the winter. The nature of the country through which he was about
+to travel rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had
+more goods and supplies of various kinds, also, than were
+required for present purposes, or than could be conveniently
+transported on horseback; aided, therefore, by a few confidential
+men, he made caches, or secret pits, during the night, when all
+the rest of the camp were asleep, and in these deposited the
+superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All traces of the
+caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common
+expedient with the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having
+no established posts and magazines, they make these caches or
+deposits at certain points, whither they repair, occasionally,
+for supplies. It is an expedient derived from the wandering
+tribes of Indians.
+
+Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit
+for a long scramble through the mountains. These were collected
+into one cavalcade, and given in charge to an experienced
+trapper, of the name of Matthieu. He was to proceed westward,
+with a brigade of trappers, to Bear River;  a stream to the west
+of the Green River or Colorado, where there was good pasturage
+for the horses. In this neighborhood it was expected he would
+meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly migrations,
+with whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After he
+had traded with these people, finished his trapping, and
+recruited the strength of the horses, he was to proceed to Salmon
+River and rejoin Captain Bonneville, who intended to fix his
+quarters there for the winter.
+
+While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain
+Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of
+Fontenelle. One of the partners of the American Fur Company had
+arrived, in all haste, from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole, in
+quest of the supplies. The competition between the two rival
+companies was just now at its height, and prosecuted with unusual
+zeal. The tramontane concerns of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company
+were managed by two resident partners, Fitzpatrick and Bridger;
+those of the American Fur Company, by Vanderburgh and Dripps. The
+latter were ignorant of the mountain regions, but trusted to make
+up by vigilance and activity for their want of knowledge of the
+country.
+
+Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of
+competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that
+the two companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in
+different directions: this proposition being rejected, he had
+exerted himself to get first into the field. His exertions, as
+have already been shown, were effectual. The early arrival of
+Sublette, with supplies, had enabled the various brigades of the
+Rocky Mountain Company to start off to their respective hunting
+grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his associate, Bridger, had
+pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for a prime beaver
+country to the north-northwest.
+
+This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to
+meet Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley,
+he immediately furnished himself with the supplies; put himself
+at the head of the free trappers and Delawares, and set off with
+all speed, determined to follow hard upon the heels of
+Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of the adventures of these parties among
+the mountains, and the disastrous effects of their competition,
+we shall have occasion to treat in a future chapter.
+
+Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his
+errand, struck his tents and set off on his return to the
+Yellowstone. Captain Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained
+alone in the Green River valley; and their situation might have
+been perilous, had the Blackfeet band still lingered in the
+vicinity. Those marauders, however, had been dismayed at finding
+so many resolute and well-appointed parties of white men in the
+neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this part of the
+country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and
+bending their course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued
+them. Their route lay through the country of their deadly
+enemies, the Crows. In the Wind River valley, which lies east of
+the mountains, they were encountered by a powerful war party of
+that tribe, and completely put to rout. Forty of them were
+killed, many of their women and children captured, and the
+scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they were
+completely chased out of the Crow country.
+
+On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and
+set out on his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged
+in packs, three to a mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on
+each side of the animal and one on the top; the three forming a
+load of from one hundred and eighty to two hundred and twenty
+pounds. This is the trappers' style of loading pack-horses; his
+men, however, were inexpert at adjusting the packs, which were
+prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was necessary to keep
+a rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days' experience,
+however, brought them into proper training.
+
+Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to
+the right by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From
+bright little lakes and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of
+mountains poured forth the tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee.
+Some came rushing down gullies and ravines; others tumbled in
+crystal cascades from inaccessible clefts and rocks, and others
+winding their way in rapid and pellucid currents across the
+valley, to throw themselves into the main river. So transparent
+were these waters that the trout with which they abounded could
+be seen gliding about as if in the air; and their pebbly beds
+were distinctly visible at the depth of many feet. This beautiful
+and diaphanous quality of the Rocky Mountain streams prevails for
+a long time after they have mingled their waters and swollen into
+important rivers.
+
+Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville
+continued to the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges,
+and deep rocky defiles, extremely fatiguing both to man and
+horse. Among his hunters was a Delaware Indian who had remained
+faithful to him. His name was Buckeye. He had often prided
+himself on his skill and success in coping with the grizzly bear,
+that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in the left arm, he
+declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded bear, and
+attack him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was willing to
+brave the animal when in full force and fury. He had twice an
+opportunity of proving his prowess, in the course of this
+mountain journey, and was each time successful. His mode was to
+seat himself upon the ground, with his rifle cocked and resting
+on his lame arm. Thus prepared, he would await the approach of
+the bear with perfect coolness, nor pull trigger until he was
+close at hand. In each instance, he laid the monster dead upon
+the spot.
+
+A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes,
+brought Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson's Hole,
+where poor More and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the
+Blackfeet. The feelings of the captain were shocked at beholding
+the bones of these unfortunate young men bleaching among the
+rocks; and he caused them to be decently interred.
+
+On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain
+which commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre's
+Hole; whence he could trace the winding of its stream through
+green meadows, and forests of willow and cotton-wood, and have a
+prospect, between distant mountains, of the lava plains of Snake
+River, dimly spread forth like a sleeping ocean below.
+
+After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the
+valley, and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict.
+There were the remains of the rude fortress in the swamp,
+shattered by rifle shot, and strewed with the mingled bones of
+savages and horses. There was the late populous and noisy
+rendezvous, with the traces of trappers' camps and Indian lodges;
+but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage of
+trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all
+dispersed to different points of the wilderness, and the valley
+had relapsed into its pristine solitude and silence.
+
+That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next
+day he resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains.
+For upwards of two weeks he continued his painful march; both men
+and horses suffering excessively at times from hunger and thirst.
+At length, on the 19th of September, he reached the upper waters
+of Salmon River.
+
+The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending
+storm. The night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was
+missing. He had left the party early in the morning, to hunt by
+himself, according to his custom. Fears were entertained lest he
+should lose his way and become bewildered in tempestuous weather.
+These fears increased on the following morning, when a violent
+snow-storm came on, which soon covered the earth to the depth of
+several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately encamped, and sent
+out scouts in every direction. After some search Buckeye was
+discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the
+rear, waiting the expected approach of the party, not knowing
+that they had passed, the snow having covered their trail.
+
+On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour,
+but had not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up
+the country in the advance, came galloping back, making signals
+to encamp, and crying Indians! Indians!
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and
+prepared for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the
+hills in great numbers. One of them left the main body and came
+forward singly, making signals of peace. He announced them as a
+band of Nez Perces or Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the
+whites, whereupon an invitation was returned by Captain
+Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him. They halted for
+a short time to make their toilette, an operation as important
+with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This done,
+they arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the
+van, the braves following in a long line, painted and decorated,
+and topped off with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced,
+shouting and singing, firing off their fusees, and clashing their
+shields. The two parties encamped hard by each other. The Nez
+Perces were on a hunting expedition, but had been almost famished
+on their march. They had no provisions left but a few dried
+salmon, yet finding the white men equally in want, they
+generously offered to share even this meager pittance, and
+frequently repeated the offer, with an earnestness that left no
+doubt of their sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of
+Captain Bonneville, and produced the most cordial good will on
+the part of his men. For two days that the parties remained in
+company, the most amicable intercourse prevailed, and they parted
+the best of friends. Captain Bonneville detached a few men, under
+Mr. Cerre, an able leader, to accompany the Nez Perces on their
+hunting expedition, and to trade with them for meat for the
+winter's supply. After this, he proceeded down the river, about
+five miles below the forks, when he came to a halt on the 26th of
+September, to establish his winter quarters.
+
+
+
+                              9. 
+                                
+  Horses turned loose Preparations for winter quarters Hungry
+times Nez Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific habits, religious
+ ceremonies Captain Bonneville's conversations with them Their
+                       love of gambling 
+
+
+IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and
+toilsome a course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of
+the burden under which they were almost ready to give out, and to
+behold them rolling upon the grass, and taking a long repose
+after all their sufferings. Indeed, so exhausted were they, that
+those employed under the saddle were no longer capable of hunting
+for the daily subsistence of the camp.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A
+temporary fortification was thrown up for the protection of the
+party; a secure and comfortable pen, into which the horses could
+be driven at night; and huts were built for the reception of the
+merchandise.
+
+This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces:
+twenty men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the
+property; the rest were organized into three brigades, and sent
+off in different directions, to subsist themselves by hunting the
+buffalo, until the snow should become too deep.
+
+Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole
+party in this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit
+of the buffalo range, and these animals had recently been
+completely hunted out of the neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so
+that, although the hunters of the garrison were continually on
+the alert, ranging the country round, they brought in scarce game
+sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now and then there was a
+scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an antelope; but
+frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with roots,
+or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates of
+the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of
+having wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along
+until the 8th of October, when they were joined by a party of
+five families of Nez Perces, who in some measure reconciled them
+to the hardships of their situation by exhibiting a lot still
+more destitute. A more forlorn set they had never encountered:
+they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor anything to subsist
+on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of certain plants,
+and other vegetable production; neither had they any weapon for
+hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor fellows
+made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their hard
+fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical
+stoicism, they at least made them acquainted with the edible
+properties of roots and wild rosebuds, and furnished them a
+supply from their own store. The necessities of the camp at
+length became so urgent that Captain Bonneville determined to
+dispatch a party to the Horse Prairie, a plain to the north of
+his cantonment, to procure a supply of provisions. When the men
+were about to depart, he proposed to the Nez Perces that they, or
+some of them, should join the hunting-party. To his surprise,
+they promptly declined. He inquired the reason for their refusal,
+seeing that they were in nearly as starving a situation as his
+own people. They replied that it was a sacred day with them, and
+the Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it to hunting.
+They offered, however, to accompany the party if it would delay
+its departure until the following day; but this the pinching
+demands of hunger would not permit, and the detachment proceeded.
+
+A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain
+Bonneville that they were about to hunt. "What! " exclaimed he,
+"without guns or arrows; and with only one old spear? What do you
+expect to kill? " They smiled among themselves, but made no
+answer. Preparatory to the chase, they performed some religious
+rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few short prayers for
+safety and success; then, having received the blessings of their
+wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed, leaving the
+whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by this
+lesson of faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being.
+"Accustomed," adds Captain Bonneville, "as I had heretofore been,
+to find the wretched Indian revelling in blood, and stained by
+every vice which can degrade human nature, I could scarcely
+realize the scene which I had witnessed. Wonder at such
+unaffected tenderness and piety, where it was least to have been
+sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at
+receiving such pure and wholesome instructions from creatures so
+far below us in the arts and comforts of life." The simple
+prayers of the poor Indians were not unheard. In the course of
+four or five days they returned, laden with meat. Captain
+Bonneville was curious to know how they had attained such success
+with such scanty means. They gave him to understand that they had
+chased the buffalo at full speed, until they tired them down,
+when they easily dispatched them with the spear, and made use of
+the same weapon to flay the carcasses. To carry through their
+lessons to their Christian friends, the poor savages were as
+charitable as they had been pious, and generously shared with
+them the spoils of their hunting, giving them food enough to last
+for several days.
+
+A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave
+Captain Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong
+devotional feeling. "Simply to call these people religious," says
+he, "would convey but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and
+devotion which pervades their whole conduct. Their honesty is
+immaculate, and their purity of purpose, and their observance of
+the rites of their religion, are most uniform and remarkable.
+They are, certainly, more like a nation of saints than a horde of
+savages."
+
+In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung
+from the doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that
+they had imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from
+Catholic missionaries and traders who had been among them. They
+even had a rude calendar of the fasts and festivals of the Romish
+Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These have become
+blended with their own wild rites, and present a strange medley;
+civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men, women, and children
+array themselves in their best style, and assemble round a pole
+erected at the head of the camp. Here they go through a wild
+fantastic ceremonial; strongly resembling the religious dance of
+the Shaking Quakers; but from its enthusiasm, much more striking
+and impressive. During the intervals of the ceremony, the
+principal chiefs, who officiate as priests, instruct them in
+their duties, and exhort them to virtue and good deeds.
+
+"There is something antique and patriarchal," observes Captain
+Bonneville, "in this union of the offices of leader and priest;
+as there is in many of their customs and manners, which are all
+strongly imbued with religion."
+
+The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly
+interested by this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the
+darkness of the wilderness. He exerted himself, during his
+sojourn among this simple and well-disposed people, to inculcate,
+as far as he was able, the gentle and humanizing precepts of the
+Christian faith, and to make them acquainted with the leading
+points of its history; and it speaks highly for the purity and
+benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed happiness from
+the task.
+
+"Many a time," says he, "was my little lodge thronged, or rather
+piled with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over
+the other, until there was no further room, all listening with
+greedy ears to the wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to
+the white man. No other subject gave them half the satisfaction,
+or commanded half the attention; and but few scenes in my life
+remain so freshly on my memory, or are so pleasurably recalled to
+my contemplation, as these hours of intercourse with a distant
+and benighted race in the midst of the desert."
+
+The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary
+people, appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they
+engage with an eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of
+gamblers will assemble before one of their lodge fires, early in
+the evening, and remain absorbed in the chances and changes of
+the game until long after dawn of the following day. As the night
+advances, they wax warmer and warmer. Bets increase in amount,
+one loss only serves to lead to a greater, until in the course of
+a single night's gambling, the richest chief may become the
+poorest varlet in the camp.
+
+
+
+                              10.
+                                
+        Black feet in the Horse Prairie Search after the
+      hunters Difficulties and dangers A card party in the
+  wilderness The card party interrupted "Old Sledge" a losing
+game Visitors to the camp Iroquois hunters Hanging-eared Indians.
+
+ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe
+arrived at Captain Bonneville's encampment. They were on their
+way homeward, but had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary
+route through the mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took
+them though the Horse Prairie. In traversing it, they had been
+attracted by the distant smoke of a camp fire, and on stealing
+near to reconnoitre, had discovered a war party of Blackfeet.
+They had several horses with them; and, as they generally go on
+foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these horses
+had been captured in the course of their maraudings.
+
+This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain
+Bonneville for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that
+neighborhood; and the Nez Perces, when informed of the
+circumstances, shook their heads, and declared their belief that
+the horses they had seen had been stolen from that very party.
+Anxious for information on the subject, Captain Bonneville
+dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that direction.
+They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found; but
+they got into a region destitute of game, where they were
+well-nigh famished. At one time they were three entire days
+with-out a mouthful of food; at length they beheld a buffalo
+grazing at the foot of the mountain. After manoeuvring so as to
+get within shot, they fired, but merely wounded him. He took to
+flight, and they followed him over hill and dale, with the
+eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more lucky shot
+brought him to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged his
+knife into his throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking
+his blood: A fire was instantly kindled beside the carcass, when
+the two hunters cooked, and ate again and again, until, perfectly
+gorged, they sank to sleep before their hunting fire. On the
+following morning they rose early, made another hearty meal, then
+loading themselves with buffalo meat, set out on their return to
+the camp, to report the fruitlessness of their mission.
+
+At length, after six weeks' absence, the hunters made their
+appearance, and were received with joy proportioned to the
+anxiety that had been felt on their account. They had hunted with
+success on the prairie, but, while busy drying buffalo meat, were
+joined by a few panic - stricken Flatheads, who informed them
+that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at hand. The hunters
+immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground, and
+accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr.
+Cerre, and the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany
+the hunting party of the Nez Perces.
+
+After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the
+Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some
+of Mr. Cerre's men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they
+arrived without accident. They informed Captain Bonneville,
+however, that not far from his quarters they had found a wallet
+of fresh meat and a cord, which they supposed had been left by
+some prowling Blackfeet. A few days afterward Mr. Cerre, with the
+remainder of his men, likewise arrived at the cantonment.
+
+Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of
+twenty hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse
+Prairie, had likewise his share of adventures with the
+all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his encampments the guard
+stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary of their duty,
+and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on these
+prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves
+with a social game of cards called "old sledge," which is as
+popular among these trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte
+among the polite circles of the cities. From the midst of their
+sport they were suddenly roused by a discharge of firearms and a
+shrill war-whoop. Starting on their feet, and snatching up their
+rifles, they beheld in dismay their horses and mules already in
+possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon the camp
+unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old
+sledge. The Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and
+endeavored to urge them off under a galling fire that did some
+execution. The mules, however, confounded by the hurly-burly and
+disliking their new riders kicked up their heels and dismounted
+half of them, in spite of their horsemanship. This threw the rest
+into confusion; they endeavored to protect their unhorsed
+comrades from the furious assaults of the whites; but, after a
+scene of "confusion worse confounded," horses and mules were
+abandoned, and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes. Here
+they quickly scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in
+which they prostrated themselves, and while thus screened from
+the shots of the white men, were enabled to make such use of
+their bows and arrows and fusees, as to repulse their assailants
+and to effect their retreat. This adventure threw a temporary
+stigma upon the game of "old sledge."
+
+In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the
+snow from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the
+cantonment. They were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn
+made themselves useful in a variety of ways, being excellent
+trappers and first-rate woodsmen. They were of the remnants of a
+party of Iroquois hunters that came from Canada into these
+mountain regions many years previously, in the employ of the
+Hudson's Bay Company. They were led by a brave chieftain, named
+Pierre, who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and gave his name
+to the fated valley of Pierre's Hole. This branch of the Iroquois
+tribe has ever since remained among these mountains, at mortal
+enmity with the Blackfeet, and have lost many of their prime
+hunters in their feuds with that ferocious race. Some of them
+fell in with General Ashley, in the course of one of his gallant
+excursions into the wilderness, and have continued ever since in
+the employ of the company.
+
+Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain
+Bonneville was a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and
+their chief. These Indians have a strong resemblance, in
+character and customs, to the Nez Perces. They amount to about
+three hundred lodges, are well armed, and possess great numbers
+of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn, they hunt the
+buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry's Fork of
+the Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River. Their
+winter quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist
+upon roots and dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson's
+Bay Company have established a trading post, where the Pends
+Oreilles and the Flatheads bring their peltries to exchange for
+arms, clothing and trinkets.
+
+This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar
+feelings of natural piety. Their religion is not a mere
+superstitious fear, like that of most savages; they evince
+abstract notions of morality; a deep reverence for an overruling
+spirit, and a respect for the rights of their fellow men. In one
+respect their religion partakes of the pacific doctrines of the
+Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased with all
+nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore, from
+all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their
+policy, they are called upon continually to wage defensive
+warfare; especially with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course
+of their hunting expeditions, they come in frequent collision and
+have desperate battles. Their conduct as warriors is without fear
+or reproach, and they can never be driven to abandon their
+hunting grounds.
+
+Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the
+power and efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they
+term them. Some of their braves, also, who have had numerous
+hairbreadth 'scapes, like the old Nez Perce chief in the battle
+of Pierre's Hole, are believed to wear a charmed life, and to be
+bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings marvelous anecdotes are
+related, which are most potently believed by their fellow
+savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white hunters.
+
+
+                               11
+                                
+Rival trapping parties Manoeuvring A desperate game Vanderburgh
+  and the Blackfeet Deserted camp fire A dark defile An Indian
+    ambush A fierce melee Fatal consequences Fitzpatrick and
+  Bridger Trappers precautions Meeting with the Blackfeet More
+    fighting Anecdote of a young Mexican and an Indian girl.
+
+
+WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez
+Perces, on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of
+those doughty rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur
+Companies, who started off for the trapping grounds to the
+north-northwest.
+
+Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have
+already shown, having received their supplies, had taken the
+lead, and hoped to have the first sweep of the hunting grounds.
+Vanderburgh and Dripps, however, the two resident partners of the
+opposite company, by extraordinary exertions were enabled soon to
+put themselves upon their traces, and pressed forward with such
+speed as to overtake them just as they had reached the heart of
+the beaver country. In fact, being ignorant of the best trapping
+grounds, it was their object to follow on, and profit by the
+superior knowledge of the other party.
+
+Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at
+being dogged by their inexperienced rivals, especially after
+their offer to divide the country with them. They tried in every
+way to blind and baffle them; to steal a march upon them, or lead
+them on a wrong scent; but all in vain. Vanderburgh made up by
+activity and intelligence for his ignorance of the country; was
+always wary, always on the alert; discovered every movement of
+his rivals, however secret and was not to be eluded or misled.
+
+Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the
+others persisted in following them, they determined to give them
+an unprofitable chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather
+than share the products with their rivals. They accordingly took
+up their line of march down the course of the Missouri, keeping
+the main Blackfoot trail, and tramping doggedly forward, without
+stopping to set a single trap. The others beat the hoof after
+them for some time, but by degrees began to perceive that they
+were on a wild-goose chase, and getting into a country perfectly
+barren to the trapper. They now came to a halt, and be-thought
+themselves how to make up for lost time, and improve the
+remainder of the season. It was thought best to divide their
+forces and try different trapping grounds. While Dripps went in
+one direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty men, proceeded in
+another. The latter, in his headlong march had got into the very
+heart of the Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been
+unconscious of his danger. As his scouts were out one day, they
+came upon the traces of a recent band of savages. There were the
+deserted fires still smoking, surrounded by the carcasses of
+buffaloes just killed. It was evident a party of Blackfeet had
+been frightened from their hunting camp, and had retreated,
+probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts hastened back to the
+camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He made light of
+the alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to
+reconnoitre for himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just
+as they had represented it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes,
+partly dismembered; there were the smouldering fires, still
+sending up their wreaths of smoke; everything bore traces of
+recent and hasty retreat; and gave reason to believe that the
+savages were still lurking in the neighborhood. With heedless
+daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their trail, to trace them
+to their place of concealment: It led him over prairies, and
+through skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and dangerous
+ravine. Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by
+his little band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell,
+between steep banks overhung with trees, where the profound
+silence was only broken by the tramp of their own horses.
+
+Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with
+the sharp report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from
+their concealments, yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to
+frighten the horses. Vanderburgh's horse fell, mortally wounded
+by the first discharge. In his fall he pinned his rider to the
+ground, who called in vain upon his men to assist in extricating
+him. One was shot down scalped a few paces distant; most of the
+others were severely wounded, and sought their safety in flight.
+The savages approached to dispatch the unfortunate leader, as he
+lay struggling beneath his horse.. He had still his rifle in his
+hand and his pistols in his belt. The first savage that advanced
+received the contents of the rifle in his breast, and fell dead
+upon the spot; but before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol, a blow
+from a tomahawk laid him prostrate, and he was dispatched by
+repeated wounds.
+
+Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and
+worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly
+bearing and dauntless courage is said to have made himself
+universally popular among the bold-hearted rovers of the
+wilderness.
+
+Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the
+camp, and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the
+enemy. The party, being without a head, were in complete
+confusion and dismay, and made a precipitate retreat, without
+attempting to recover the remains of their butchered leader. They
+made no halt until they reached the encampment of the Pends
+Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a reward for the
+recovery of the body, but without success; it never could be
+found.
+
+In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain
+Company, fared but little better than their rivals. In their
+eagerness to mislead them they betrayed themselves into danger,
+and got into a region infested with the Blackfeet. They soon
+found that foes were on the watch for them; but they were
+experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be surprised at night,
+nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the evening advanced,
+the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a guard was
+stationed round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of
+the leaders would mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for
+about half a mile; then look round for Indian trails, to
+ascertain whether there had been any lurkers round the camp;
+returning slowly, he would reconnoitre every ravine and thicket
+where there might be an ambush. This done, he would gallop off in
+an opposite direction and repeat the same scrutiny. Finding all
+things safe, the horses would be turned loose to graze, but
+always under the eye of a guard.
+
+A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on
+approaching any defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait;
+and scouts were always kept in the advance, or along the ridges
+and rising grounds on the flanks.
+
+At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the
+open field, but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at
+a wary distance, but made friendly signs. The trappers replied in
+the same way, but likewise kept aloof. A small party of Indians
+now advanced, bearing the pipe of peace; they were met by an
+equal number of white men, and they formed a group midway between
+the two bands, where the pipe was circulated from hand to hand,
+and smoked with all due ceremony. An instance of natural
+affection took place at this pacific meeting. Among the free
+trappers in the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited young Mexican
+named Loretto, who, in the course of his wanderings, had ransomed
+a beautiful Blackfoot girl from a band of Crows by whom she had
+been captured. He made her his wife, after the Indian style, and
+she had followed his fortunes ever since, with the most devoted
+affection.
+
+Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of
+peace she recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto
+she rushed forward and threw herself upon her brother's neck, who
+clasped his long-lost sister to his heart with a warmth of
+affection but little compatible with the reputed stoicism of the
+savage.
+
+While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of
+trappers and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his
+rifle resting across the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the
+Blackfeet stepped forward to meet him. From some unfortunate
+feeling of distrust Bridger cocked his rifle just as the chief
+was extending his hand in friendship. The quick ear of the savage
+caught the click of the lock; in a twinkling he grasped the
+barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the contents were
+discharged into the earth at his feet. His next movement was to
+wrest the weapon from the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to
+the earth. He might have found this no easy task had not the
+unfortunate leader received two arrows in his back during the
+struggle.
+
+The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to
+his band. A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to
+the banks, the rocks and trees, to gain favorable positions, and
+an irregular firing was kept up on either side, without much
+effect. The Indian girl had been hurried off by her people at the
+outbreak of the affray. She would have returned, through the
+dangers of the fight, to her husband and her child, but was
+prevented by her brother. The young Mexican saw her struggles and
+her agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a generous impulse
+he caught up the child in his arms, rushed forward, regardless of
+Indian shaft or rifle, and placed it in safety upon her bosom.
+Even the savage heart of the Blackfoot chief was reached by this
+noble deed. He pronounced Loretto a madman for his temerity, but
+bade him depart in peace. The young Mexican hesitated; he urged
+to have his wife restored to him, but her brother interfered, and
+the countenance of the chief grew dark. The girl, he said,
+belonged to his tribe-she must remain with her people. Loretto
+would still have lingered, but his wife implored him to depart,
+lest his life should be endangered. It was with the greatest
+reluctance that he returned to his companions.
+
+The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the
+adverse parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their
+hostilities. We cannot but remark that both in this affair and
+that of Pierre's Hole the affray commenced by a hostile act on
+the part of white men at the moment when the Indian warrior was
+extending the hand of amity. In neither instance, as far as
+circumstances have been stated to us by different persons, do we
+see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in their
+overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual
+among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider
+themselves sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this
+ceremonial, by any hostile movement on our part, it is we who
+incur the charge of faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both
+these instances the white men have been considered by the
+Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have, in consequence, been held
+up as men not to be trusted.
+
+A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his
+Indian bride. A few months subsequent to the event just related,
+the young Mexican settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain
+Company, and obtained his discharge. He then left his comrades
+and set off to rejoin his wife and child among her people; and we
+understand that, at the time we are writing these pages, he
+resides at a trading-house established of late by the American
+Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts as an
+interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him.
+
+
+                              12.
+                                
+A winter camp in the wilderness Medley of trappers, hunters, and
+Indians Scarcity of game New arrangements in the camp Detachments
+      sent to a distance Carelessness of the Indians when
+ encamped Sickness among the Indians Excellent character of the
+ Nez Perces The Captain's effort as a pacificator A Nez Perce's
+   argument in favor of war Robberies, by the Black feet Long
+    suffering of the Nez Perces A hunter's Elysium among the
+ mountains More robberies The Captain preaches up a crusade The
+                    effect upon his hearers.
+
+FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville
+remained in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the
+full enjoyment of his wishes; leading a hunter's life in the
+heart of the wilderness, with all its wild populace around him.
+Beside his own people, motley in character and costume--creole,
+Kentuckian, Indian, half-breed, hired trapper, and free
+trapper--he was surrounded by encampments of Nez Perces and
+Flatheads, with their droves of horses covering the hills and
+plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling scene. The
+hunting parties of white men and red men, continually sallying
+forth and returning; the groups at the various encampments, some
+cooking, some working, some amusing themselves at different
+games; the neighing of horses, the braying of asses, the
+resounding strokes of the axe, the sharp report of the rifle, the
+whoop, the halloo, and the frequent burst of laughter, all in the
+midst of a region suddenly roused from perfect silence and
+loneliness by this transient hunters' sojourn, realized, he says,
+the idea of a "populous solitude."
+
+The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its
+influence on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated
+together. The most perfect harmony prevailed between them. The
+Indians, he says, were friendly in their dispositions, and honest
+to the most scrupulous degree in their intercourse with the white
+men. It is true they were somewhat importunate in their
+curiosity, and apt to be continually in the way, examining
+everything with keen and prying eye, and watching every movement
+of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great
+good-humor by the captain, and through his example by his men.
+Indeed, throughout all his transactions he shows himself the
+friend of the poor Indians, and his conduct toward them is above
+all praise.
+
+The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride
+themselves upon the number of their horses, of which they possess
+more in proportion than any other of the mountain tribes within
+the buffalo range.  Many of the Indian warriors and hunters
+encamped around Captain Bonneville possess from thirty to forty
+horses each. Their horses are stout, well-built ponies, of great
+wind, and capable of enduring the severest hardship and fatigue.
+The swiftest of them, however, are those obtained from the whites
+while sufficiently young to become acclimated and inured to the
+rough service of the mountains.
+
+By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce
+its inconveniences.  The immense droves of horses owned by the
+Indians consumed the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to
+drive them to any distant pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding
+with lurking and deadly enemies, would be to endanger the loss
+both of man and beast. Game, too, began to grow scarce. It was
+soon hunted and frightened out of the vicinity, and though the
+Indians made a wide circuit through the mountains in the hope of
+driving the buffalo toward the cantonment, their expedition was
+unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party could not
+subsist themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the
+winter. Captain Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole
+arrangements. He detached fifty men toward the south to winter
+upon Snake River, and to trap about its waters in the spring,
+with orders to rejoin him in the month of July at Horse Creek, in
+Green River Valley, which he had fixed upon as the general
+rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year.
+
+Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small
+number of free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among
+the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving
+with the game and grass. Those bands, in effect, shortly
+afterward broke up their encampments and set off for a less
+beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained behind for a few
+days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which to deposit
+everything not required for current use. Thus lightened of all
+superfluous encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to
+rejoin his Indian allies. He found them encamped in a secluded
+part of the country, at the head of a small stream. Considering
+themselves out of all danger in this sequestered spot from their
+old enemies, the Blackfeet, their encampment manifested the most
+negligent security. Their lodges were scattered in every
+direction, and their horses covered every hill for a great
+distance round, grazing upon the upland bunch grass which grew in
+great abundance, and though dry, retained its nutritious
+properties instead of losing them like other grasses in the
+autumn.
+
+When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped
+in a dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the
+greatest care is taken of their horses, those prime articles of
+Indian wealth, and objects of Indian depredation.  Each warrior
+has his horse tied by one foot at night to a stake planted before
+his lodge. Here they remain until broad daylight; by that time
+the young men of the camp are already ranging over the
+surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses to some
+eligible spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young
+Indian repairs occasionally to the pasture to give them water,
+and to see that all is well. So accustomed are the horses to this
+management, that they keep together in the pasture where they
+have been left. As the sun sinks behind the hills, they may be
+seen moving from all points toward the camp, where they surrender
+themselves to be tied up for the night. Even in situations of
+danger, the Indians rarely set guards over their camp at night,
+intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant and
+well-trained dogs.
+
+In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in
+which Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these
+precautions with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely
+drive them, at nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and
+leave them there, at perfect liberty, until the morning.
+
+One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians
+was to procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were,
+however, extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with
+great difficulty that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars
+each, a few for the use of some of his free trappers who were on
+foot and dependent on him for their equipment.
+
+In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of
+November to the 9th of December. During this period the
+thermometer ranged from thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were
+occasional falls of snow; but it generally melted away almost
+immediately, and the tender blades of new grass began to shoot up
+among the old. On the 7th of December, however, the thermometer
+fell to seven degrees.
+
+The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when
+in Green River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party,
+headed by a leader of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and
+disabled horses, to sojourn about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie
+bands, and afterward to rejoin him at his winter camp on Salmon
+River.
+
+More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to
+make his appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his
+account. Captain Bonneville sent out four men, to range the
+country through which he would have to pass, and endeavor to get
+some information concerning him; for his route lay across the
+great Snake River plain, which spreads itself out like an Arabian
+desert, and on which a cavalcade could be descried at a great
+distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded no further
+than the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were
+lame; but it was evident they had feared to venture, with so
+small a force, into these exposed and dangerous regions.
+
+A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now
+appeared among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an
+illness of three or four days. The worthy captain acted as
+physician, prescribing profuse sweatings and copious bleedings,
+and uniformly with success, if the patient were subsequently
+treated with proper care. In extraordinary cases, the poor
+savages called in the aid of their own doctors or conjurors, who
+officiated with great noise and mummery, but with little benefit.
+Those who died during this epidemic were buried in graves, after
+the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the direction
+of the head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this
+malady made such ravages among the natives, not a single white
+man had the slightest symptom of it.
+
+A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and
+Flathead Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their
+amicable and inoffensive character; he began to take a strong
+interest in them, and conceived the idea of becoming a
+pacificator, and healing the deadly feud between them and the
+Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably the sufferers. He
+proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and urged that they
+should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific conference,
+offering to send two of his men to the enemy's camp with pipe,
+tobacco and flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting.
+
+The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war
+of two days' duration, in which there was abundance of hard
+smoking and long talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were
+nearly exhausted. At length they came to a decision to reject the
+worthy captain's proposition, and upon pretty substantial
+grounds, as the reader may judge.
+
+"War," said the chiefs, "is a bloody business, and full of evil;
+but it keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the
+limbs of the young men strong and supple. In war, every one is on
+the alert. If we see a trail we know it must be an enemy; if the
+Blackfeet come to us, we know it is for war, and we are ready.
+Peace, on the other hand, sounds no alarm; the eyes of the chiefs
+are closed in sleep, and the young men are sleek and lazy. The
+horses stray into the mountains; the women and their little babes
+go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a lie, and his
+tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he comes to
+us as a brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees us
+weak, and off our guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no
+such peace; let there be war!"
+
+With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce;
+but, since the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content
+to remain in a state of warfare, he wished them at least to
+exercise the boasted vigilance which war was to produce, and to
+keep their eyes open. He represented to them the impossibility
+that two such considerable clans could move about the country
+without leaving trails by which they might be traced. Besides,
+among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces, who had been
+taken prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors, and
+trained up and imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these
+had lost all sympathies with their native tribe, and would be
+prone to lead the enemy to their secret haunts. He exhorted them,
+therefore, to keep upon the alert, and never to remit their
+vigilance while within the range of so crafty and cruel a foe.
+All these counsels were lost upon his easy and simple-minded
+hearers. A careless indifference reigned throughout their
+encampments, and their horses were permitted to range the hills
+at night in perfect freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own
+horses brought in at night, and properly picketed and guarded.
+The evil he apprehended soon took place. In a single night a
+swoop was made through the neighboring pastures by the Blackfeet,
+and eighty-six of the finest horses carried off. A whip and a
+rope were left in a conspicuous situation by the robbers, as a
+taunt to the simpletons they had unhorsed.
+
+Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like
+wildfire through the different encampments. Captain Bonneville,
+whose own horses remained safe at their pickets, watched in
+momentary expectation of an outbreak of warriors, Pierced-nose
+and Flathead, in furious pursuit of the marauders; but no such
+thing -- they contented themselves with searching diligently over
+hill and dale, to glean up such horses as had escaped the hands
+of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to their loss with
+the most exemplary quiescence.
+
+Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a
+begging visit to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower
+Nez Perces, who inhabit the lower country about the Columbia, and
+possess horses in abundance. To these they repair when in
+difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of begging and bartering, to
+get themselves once more mounted on horseback.
+
+Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and
+it was necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a
+less beaten ground.  Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse
+Prairie; but his Indian friends objected that many of the Nez
+Perces had gone to visit their cousins, and that the whites were
+few in number, so that their united force was not sufficient to
+Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were infested by bands of
+Blackfeet.
+
+They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they
+represented as a perfect hunter's elysium. It was on the right
+branch, or head stream of the river, locked up among cliffs and
+precipices where there was no danger from roving bands, and where
+the Blackfeet dare not enter. Here, they said, the elk abounded,
+and the mountain sheep were to be seen trooping upon the rocks
+and hills.  A little distance beyond it, also, herds of buffalo
+were to be met with, Out of range of danger. Thither they
+proposed to move their camp.
+
+The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through
+the Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of
+the land. Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their
+tents, and moved forward by short stages, as many of the Indians
+were yet feeble from the late malady.
+
+Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it
+entered a deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded
+region so much valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted
+and encamped for three days before entering the gorge. In the
+meantime he detached five of his free trappers to scour the
+hills, and kill as many elk as possible, before the main body
+should enter, as they would then be soon frightened away by the
+various Indian hunting parties.
+
+While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the
+Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends
+to be upon their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding
+their recent loss, were still careless of their horses; merely
+driving them to some secluded spot, and leaving them there for
+the night, without setting any guard upon them. The consequence
+was a second swoop, in which forty-one were carried off. This was
+borne with equal philosophy with the first, and no effort was
+made either to recover the horses, or to take vengeance on the
+thieves.
+
+The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their
+remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every
+evening, and fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville,
+however, told them that this was not enough. It was evident they
+were dogged by a daring and persevering enemy, who was encouraged
+by past impunity; they should, therefore, take more than usual
+precautions, and post a guard at night over their cavalry. They
+could not, however, be persuaded to depart from their usual
+custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was over
+for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp
+but the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more
+difficult to be roused to external circumstances than even the
+sleepers.
+
+The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits.
+The band that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that
+they had such pacific people to deal with, redoubled their
+daring. The horses being now picketed before the lodges, a number
+of Blackfeet scouts penetrated in the early part of the night
+into the very centre of the camp. Here they went about among the
+lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at home, quietly cutting
+loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges of their
+sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than the
+rest, approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were
+gambling with the most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some
+time, muffled up in his robe, peering over the shoulders of the
+players, watching the changes of their countenances and the
+fluctuations of the game. So completely engrossed were they, that
+the presence of this muffled eaves-dropper was unnoticed and,
+having executed his bravado, he retired undiscovered.
+
+Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry
+off, the Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all
+remained patiently round the camp. By degrees the horses, finding
+themselves at liberty, took their route toward their customary
+grazing ground. As they emerged from the camp they were silently
+taken possession of, until, having secured about thirty, the
+Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered off. The clatter of
+hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They gave the alarm,
+which soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still all was
+quiescent; no marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds and
+dashing off in pursuit, no talk of retribution for their repeated
+outrages. The patience of Captain Bonneville was at length
+exhausted. He had played the part of a pacificator without
+success; he now altered his tone, and resolved, if possible, to
+rouse their war spirit.
+
+Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their
+craven policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and
+retributive measures that would check the confidence and
+presumption of their enemies, if not inspire them with awe. For
+this purpose, he advised that a war party should be immediately
+sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow them, if
+necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and not
+to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this,
+he recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make
+reprisals to the extent of the losses sustained. "Unless you
+rouse yourselves from your apathy," said he, "and strike some
+bold and decisive blow, you will cease to be considered men, or
+objects of manly warfare. The very squaws and children of the
+Blackfeet will be set against you, while their warriors reserve
+themselves for nobler antagonists."
+
+This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of
+the hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators
+arose. It was bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge.  The
+Great Spirit had given them a heart for peace, not for war. They
+had lost horses, it was true, but they could easily get others
+from their cousins, the Lower Nez Perces, without incurring any
+risk; whereas, in war they should lose men, who were not so
+readily replaced. As to their late losses, an increased
+watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind. He
+disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the
+other chiefs concurred in his opinion.
+
+Captain Bonneville again took up the point. "It is true," said
+he, "the Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends;
+but he has also given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless
+you do something speedily to put an end to this continual
+plundering, I must say farewell. As yet I have sustained no loss;
+thanks to the precautions which you have slighted; but my
+property is too unsafe here; my turn will come next; I and my
+people will share the contempt you are bringing upon yourselves,
+and will be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings, who may at
+any time be plundered with impunity."
+
+The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part
+of the Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set
+off in pursuit of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a
+good account of the Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment,
+the war party came lagging back on the following day, leading a
+few old, sorry, broken-down horses, which the free-booters had
+not been able to urge to sufficient speed. This effort exhausted
+the martial spirit, and satisfied the wounded pride of the Nez
+Perces, and they relapsed into their usual state of passive
+indifference.
+
+
+                              13.
+                                
+            Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.
+
+IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved
+the spirit of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in
+the camp to whom they were still more annoying. This was a
+Blackfoot renegado, named Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who,
+with a beautiful girl of the same tribe, had taken refuge among
+the Nez  Perces.  Though  adopted  into the tribe, he still
+retained the warlike spirit of his race, and loathed the
+peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The hunting of
+the deer, the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of their
+ambition, was too tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature. 
+His heart burned for the foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the
+scamper, and all the haps and hazards of roving and predatory
+warfare.
+
+The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their
+nightly prowls and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in
+a fever and a flutter, like a hawk in a cage who hears his late
+companions swooping and screaming in wild liberty above him.  The
+attempt of Captain Bonneville to rouse the war spirit of the Nez
+Perces, and prompt them to retaliation, was ardently seconded by
+Kosato. For several days he was incessantly devising schemes of
+vengeance, and endeavoring to set on foot an expedition that
+should carry dismay and desolation into the Blackfeet town. All
+his art was exerted to touch upon those springs of human action
+with which he was most familiar. He drew the listening savages
+round him by his nervous eloquence; taunted them with recitals of
+past wrongs and insults; drew glowing pictures of triumphs and
+trophies within their reach; recounted tales of daring and
+romantic enterprise, of secret marchings, covert lurkings,
+midnight surprisals, sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings;
+together with the triumphant return, and the feasting and
+rejoicing of the victors. These wild tales were intermingled with
+the beating of the drum, the yell, the war-whoop and the
+war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor. All, however, were lost
+upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a Nez Perce was to
+be roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In the
+bitterness of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the
+mishap which had severed him from a race of congenial spirits,
+and driven him to take refuge among beings so destitute of
+martial fire.
+
+The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of
+Captain Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he
+had deserted his tribe, and why he looked back upon them with
+such deadly hostility. Kosato told him his own story briefly: it
+gives a picture of the deep, strong passions that work in the
+bosoms of these miscalled stoics.
+
+"You see my wife," said he, "she is good; she is beautiful --I
+love her.  Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was
+the wife of my chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew
+it. We talked together; we laughed together; we were always
+seeking each other's society; but we were as innocent as
+children. The chief grew jealous, and commanded her to speak with
+me no more. His heart became hard toward her; his jealousy grew
+more furious. He beat her without cause and without mercy; and
+threatened to kill her outright if she even looked at me. Do you
+want traces of his fury? Look at that scar! His rage against me
+was no less persecuting. War parties of the Crows were hovering
+round us; our young men had seen their trail. All hearts were
+roused for action; my horses were before my lodge. Suddenly the
+chief came, took them to his own pickets, and called them his
+own. What could I do? he was a chief. I durst not speak, but my
+heart was burning. I joined no longer in the council, the hunt,
+or the war-feast. What had I to do there? an unhorsed, degraded
+warrior. I kept by myself, and thought of nothing but these
+wrongs and outrages.
+
+"I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the
+meadow where the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were
+once mine grazing among those of the chief. This maddened me, and
+I sat brooding for a time over the injuries I had suffered, and
+the cruelties which she I loved had endured for my sake, until my
+heart swelled and grew sore, and my teeth were clinched. As I
+looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief walking among his
+horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk's; my blood boiled;
+I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an instant I
+was on my feet; my hand was on my knife --I flew rather than ran
+-- before he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid
+him dead at my feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed
+bushes over the place; then I hastened to her I loved, told her
+what I had done, and urged her to fly with me. She only answered
+me with tears. I reminded her of the wrongs I had suffered, and
+of the blows and stripes she had endured from the deceased; I had
+done nothing but an act of justice. I again urged her to fly; but
+she only wept the more, and bade me go. My heart was heavy, but
+my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. ' 'Tis well,' said I; 'Kosato
+will go alone to the desert. None will be with him but the wild
+beasts of the desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his
+trail. They may come upon him when he sleeps and glut their
+revenge; but you will be safe. Kosato will go alone.
+
+"I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms.
+'No,' she cried, 'Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I
+will go -- he shall never part from me.
+
+"'We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and
+stealing quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we
+encountered. Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe.
+They received us with welcome, and we have dwelt with them in
+peace. They are good and kind; they are honest; but their hearts
+are the hearts of women.
+
+Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain
+Bonneville. It is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life;
+where love elopements from tribe to tribe are as frequent as
+among the novel-read heroes and heroines of sentimental
+civilization, and often give rise to bloods and lasting feuds.
+
+
+                               14
+                                
+   The party enters the mountain gorge A wild fastness among
+  hills Mountain mutton Peace and plenty The amorous trapper-A
+   piebald wedding-A free trapper's wife-Her gala equipments-
+                  Christmas in the wilderness.
+
+ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate
+Indians raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by
+the north fork of Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and
+plenteous hunting region so temptingly described by the Indians.
+
+Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose
+sand or coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains
+of primitive limestone.  The rivers, in general, were skirted
+with willows and bitter cottonwood trees, and the prairies
+covered with wormwood.  In the hollow breast of the mountains
+which they were now penetrating, the surrounding heights were
+clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills
+afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses.
+
+As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural
+fastness of the mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by
+a deep gorge, so narrow, rugged, and difficult as to prevent
+secret approach or rapid retreat, and to admit of easy defence.
+The Blackfeet, therefore, refrained from venturing in after the
+Nez Perces, awaiting a better chance, when they should once more
+emerge into the open country.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not
+exaggerated the advantages of this region.  Besides the numerous
+gangs of elk, large flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, the
+mountain sheep, were to be seen bounding among the precipices. 
+These simple animals were easily circumvented and destroyed.  A
+few hunters may surround a flock and kill as many as they please. 
+Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the flesh of those
+which were young and fat was extolled as superior to the finest
+mutton.
+
+Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and
+alarm.  Past ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game,
+the song, the story, the rough though good-humored joke, made
+time pass joyously away, and plenty and security reigned
+throughout the camp.
+
+Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to
+matrimony, in civilized life, and the same process takes place in
+the wilderness.  Filled with good cheer and mountain mutton, one
+of the free trappers began to repine at the solitude of his
+lodge, and to experience the force of that great law of nature,
+"it is not meet for man to live alone.''
+
+After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the
+Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of
+his bosom.
+
+"I want," said he, "a wife. Give me one from among your tribe.
+Not a young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but
+flaunting and finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw;
+one that will share my lot without flinching, however hard it may
+be; that can take care of my lodge, and be a companion and a
+helpmate to me in the wilderness." Kowsoter promised to look
+round among the females of his tribe, and procure such a one as
+he desired. Two days were requisite for the search. At the
+expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and informed
+him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of the
+afternoon. He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached,
+leading the bride, a comely copper-colored dame attired in her
+Indian finery. Her father, mother, brothers by the half dozen and
+cousins by the score, all followed on to grace the ceremony and
+greet the new and important relative.
+
+The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with
+proper solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling
+the pipe, the great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took
+two or three whiffs, then handed it to the chief who transferred
+it to the father of the bride, from whom it was passed on from
+hand to hand and mouth to mouth of the whole circle of kinsmen
+round the fire, all maintaining the most profound and becoming
+silence.
+
+After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn
+ceremonial, the chief addressed the bride, detailing at
+considerable length the duties of a wife which, among Indians,
+are little less onerous than those of the pack-horse; this done,
+he turned to her friends and congratulated them upon the great
+alliance she had made. They showed a due sense of their good
+fortune, especially when the nuptial presents came to be
+distributed among the chiefs and relatives, amounting to about
+one hundred and eighty dollars. The company soon retired, and now
+the worthy trapper found indeed that he had no green girl to deal
+with; for the knowing dame at once assumed the style and dignity
+of a trapper's wife: taking possession of the lodge as her
+undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her own
+taste and habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy
+terms with the trapper as if they had been man and wife for
+years.
+
+We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse,
+as furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a
+companion picture, his description of a free trapper's wife, that
+the reader may have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the
+worthy hunter in question had invoked to solace him in the
+wilderness.
+
+"The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his
+horse; but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in
+matrimony occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like
+the heroes of ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers
+that he has a still more fanciful and capricious animal on which
+to lavish his expenses.
+
+"No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than
+all her notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her
+situation, and the purse of her lover, and his credit into the
+bargain, are taxed to the utmost to fit her out in becoming
+style. The wife of a free trapper to be equipped and arrayed like
+any ordinary and undistinguished squaw? Perish the grovelling
+thought! In the first place, she must have a horse for her own
+riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as is
+sometimes assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of
+his squaw and her pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have
+the most beautiful animal she can lay her eyes on. And then, as
+to his decoration: headstall, breast-bands, saddle and crupper
+are lavishly embroidered with beads, and hung with thimbles,
+hawks' bells, and bunches of ribbons. From each side of the
+saddle hangs an esquimoot, a sort of pocket, in which she bestows
+the residue of her trinkets and nick-nacks, which cannot be
+crowded on the decoration of her horse or herself. Over this she
+folds, with great care, a drapery of scarlet and bright-colored
+calicoes, and now considers the caparison of her steed complete.
+
+"As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her
+hair, esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is
+carefully plaited, and made to fall with seeming negligence over
+either breast. Her riding hat is stuck full of parti-colored
+feathers; her robe, fashioned somewhat after that of the whites,
+is of red, green, and sometimes gray cloth, but always of the
+finest texture that can be procured. Her leggings and moccasins
+are of the most beautiful and expensive workman-ship, and fitted
+neatly to the foot and ankle, which with the Indian woman are
+generally well formed and delicate. Then as to jewelry: in the
+way of finger-rings, ear-rings, necklaces, and other female
+glories, nothing within reach of the trapper's means is omitted
+that can tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the lady's
+high estate. To finish the whole, she selects from among her
+blankets of various dyes one of some glowing color, and throwing
+it over her shoulders with a native grace, vaults into the saddle
+of her gay, prancing steed, and is ready to follow her
+mountaineer 'to the last gasp with love and loyalty.' "
+
+Such is the general picture of the free trapper's wife, given by
+Captain Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one
+in question does not altogether appear, though it would seem from
+the outset of her connubial career, that she was ready to avail
+herself of all the pomp and circumstance of her new condition. It
+is worthy of mention that wherever there are several wives of
+free trappers in a camp, the keenest rivalry exists between them,
+to the sore detriment of their husbands' purses. Their whole time
+is expended and their ingenuity tasked by endeavors to eclipse
+each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies and
+heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of
+nature are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of
+style and fashion in the luxurious abodes of civilized life.
+
+The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all
+Christendom lights up the fireside of home with mirth and
+jollity, followed hard upon the wedding just described. Though
+far from kindred and friends, Captain Bonneville and his handful
+of free trappers were not disposed to suffer the festival to pass
+unenjoyed; they were in a region of good cheer, and were disposed
+to be joyous; so it was determined to "light up the yule clog,"
+and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the wilderness.
+
+On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and
+rejoicings.  In the course of the night the free trappers
+surrounded the lodge of the Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of
+Christmas carols, saluted him with a feude joie.
+
+Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a
+speech, in which he expressed his high gratification at the honor
+done him, invited the whole company to a feast on the following
+day.  His invitation was gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in
+the wigwam of an Indian chief! There was novelty in the idea. Not
+one failed to be present. The banquet was served up in primitive
+style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed for the occasion,
+were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up abundance
+of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter
+roots which the Indians use as condiments.
+
+After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves
+cross-legged, in Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed
+off with great hilarity. After which various games of strength
+and agility by both white men and Indians closed the Christmas
+festivities.
+
+
+
+                              15.
+                                
+  A hunt after hunters Hungry times A voracious repast Wintry
+ weather Godin's River Splendid winter scene on the great Lava
+   Plain of Snake River Severe travelling and tramping in the
+snow Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian horseman Encampment on Snake
+    River Banneck Indians The horse chief His charmed life.
+
+THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this
+time, caused great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville;
+and, finding there was no dependence to be placed upon the
+perseverance and courage of scouting parties in so perilous a
+quest, he determined to set out himself on the search, and to
+keep on until he should ascertain something of the object of his
+solicitude.
+
+Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by
+thirteen stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed
+for dangerous enterprise. On the following morning they passed
+out at the head of the mountain gorge and sallied forth into the
+open plain. As they confidently expected a brush with the
+Blackfeet, or some other predatory horde, they moved with great
+circumspection, and kept vigilant watch in their encampments.
+
+In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon
+River, and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day's
+defile. It was severe and arduous travelling. The plains were
+swept by keen and bitter blasts of wintry wind; the ground was
+generally covered with snow, game was scarce, so that hunger
+generally prevailed in the camp, while the want of pasturage soon
+began to manifest itself in the declining vigor of the horses.
+
+The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th,
+when two of the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game
+came galloping back in great alarm. While hunting they had
+perceived a party of savages, evidently manoeuvring to cut them
+off from the camp; and nothing had saved them from being
+entrapped but the speed of their horses.
+
+These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville
+endeavored to reassure his men by representing the position of
+their encampment, and its capability of defence.  He then ordered
+the horses to be driven in and picketed, and threw up a rough
+breastwork of fallen trunks of trees and the vegetable rubbish of
+the wilderness. Within this barrier was maintained a vigilant
+watch throughout the night, which passed away without alarm. At
+early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to discover
+whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night; not
+a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel
+with which the plain was covered.
+
+Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions
+of surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped
+at the foot of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was
+not until the next day that they discovered a pair of fine bulls
+on the edge of the plain, among rocks and ravines. Having now
+been two days and a half without a mouthful of food, they took
+especial care that these animals should not escape them.  While
+some of the surest marksmen advanced cautiously with their rifles
+into the rough ground, four of the best mounted horsemen took
+their stations in the plain, to run the bulls down should they
+only be maimed.
+
+The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight.  The
+half-famished horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen
+ground, but succeeded in driving them on the ice, where they
+slipped and fell, and were easily dispatched. The hunters loaded
+themselves with beef for present and future supply, and then
+returned and encamped at the last nights's fire.  Here they
+passed the remainder of the day, cooking and eating with a
+voracity proportioned to previous starvation, forgetting in the
+hearty revel of the moment the certain dangers with which they
+were environed.
+
+The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate
+about their further progress. The men were much disheartened by
+the hardships they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been
+in the rear guard, taking advantage of their position, had
+deserted and returned to the lodges of the Nez Perces. The
+prospect ahead was enough to stagger the stoutest heart. They
+were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye could reach the
+wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently deepening
+as they advanced.  Over this they would have to toil, with the
+icy wind blowing in their faces:  their horses might give out
+through want of pasturage, and they themselves must expect
+intervals of horrible famine like that they had already
+experienced.
+
+With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of
+pride; and, having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn
+him back until it was accomplished: though he declares that, had
+he anticipated the difficulties and sufferings which attended it,
+he should have flinched from the undertaking.
+
+Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along
+the course of a stream called John Day's Creek. The cold was so
+intense that they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot,
+lest they should freeze in their saddles. The days which at this
+season are short enough even in the open prairies, were narrowed
+to a few hours by the high mountains, which allowed the
+travellers but a brief enjoyment of the cheering rays of the sun. 
+The snow was generally at least twenty inches in depth, and in
+many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat their way
+with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day's
+journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was
+covered by the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist
+upon but scanty wisps of the dry bunch grass which peered above
+the surface, and the small branches and twigs of frozen willows
+and wormwood.
+
+In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south
+down John Day's Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they
+encamped upon the ice among stiffened willows, where they were
+obliged to beat down and clear away the snow to procure pasturage
+for their horses.
+
+Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois
+hunter in the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the
+Blackfeet. Many of the features of this remote wilderness are
+thus named after scenes of violence and bloodshed that occurred
+to the early pioneers. It was an act of filial vengeance on the
+part of Godin's son Antoine that, as the reader may recollect,
+brought on the recent battle at Pierre's Hole.
+
+From Godin's River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out
+upon the plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular
+and isolated hills that rise from the midst. It is a part of the
+great desert of Snake River, one of the most remarkable tracts
+beyond the mountains. Could they have experienced a respite from
+their sufferings and anxieties, the immense landscape spread out
+before them was calculated to inspire admiration. Winter has its
+beauties and glories as well as summer; and Captain Bonneville
+had the soul to appreciate them.
+
+Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides
+of the lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling
+whiteness: and whenever the sun emerged in the morning above the
+giant peaks, or burst forth from among clouds in his midday
+course, mountain and dell, glazed rock and frosted tree, glowed
+and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall pines seemed
+sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with
+minute icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the
+fairy trees conjured up by the caliph's story-teller to adorn his
+vale of diamonds.
+
+The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold,
+were in no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes;
+though they stamped pictures on their memory which have been
+recalled with delight in more genial situations.
+
+Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the
+winds, so that it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of
+bunch grass.  Here the horses were turned loose to graze
+throughout the night. Though for once they had ample pasturage,
+yet the keen winds were so intense that, in the morning, a mule
+was found frozen to death.  The trappers gathered round and
+mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their
+half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed
+scarce blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing
+cold. To beat the way further through the snow with these
+enfeebled animals seemed next to impossible; and despondency
+began to creep over their hearts, when, fortunately, they
+discovered a trail made by some hunting party. Into this they
+immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty. Shortly
+afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and
+was instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon
+blazing and crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and
+sooner dispatched; after which they made some further progress
+and then encamped. One of the men reached the camp nearly frozen
+to death; but good cheer and a blazing fire gradually restored
+life, and put his blood in circulation.
+
+Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with
+more facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they
+receded from the mountains, and the temperature became more mild.
+In the course of the day they discovered a solitary horseman
+hovering at a distance before them on the plain. They spurred on
+to overtake him; but he was better mounted on a fresher steed,
+and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring them with evident
+distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers, their
+leggings, blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped
+off with feathers, even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed
+complexions, gave them the look of Indians rather than white men,
+and made him mistake them for a war party of some hostile tribe.
+
+After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought
+to a parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution
+of a knowing prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse,
+and using him as a breastwork, he levelled his gun across his
+back, and, thus prepared for defence like a wary cruiser upon the
+high seas, he permitted himself to be approached within speaking
+distance.
+
+He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a
+band at no great distance. It was some time before he could be
+persuaded that he was conversing with a party of white men and
+induced to lay aside his reserve and join them. He then gave them
+the interesting intelligence that there were two companies of
+white men encamped in the neighborhood. This was cheering news to
+Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one of them the
+long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore, with
+renovated spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there
+fixed his encampment.
+
+Early the next morning (13th January, 1833) , diligent search was
+made about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of
+white men. An encampment was soon discovered about four miles
+farther up the river, in which Captain Bonneville to his great
+joy found two of Matthieu's men, from whom he learned that the
+rest of his party would be there in the course of a few days. It
+was a matter of great pride and selfgratulation to Captain
+Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his dreary and doubtful
+enterprise; and he determined to pass some time in this
+encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give
+needful repose to men and horses.
+
+It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful
+wintering grounds in that whole range of country. The Snake River
+here wound its devious way between low banks through the great
+plain of the Three Butes; and was bordered by wide and fertile
+meadows. It was studded with islands which, like the alluvial
+bottoms, were covered with groves of cotton-wood, thickets of
+willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and abundance of green
+rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent that no single
+band of Indians could drive the buffalo out of them; nor was the
+snow of sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience.
+Indeed, during the sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this
+neighborhood, which was in the heart of winter, he found the
+weather, with the exception of a few cold and stormy days,
+generally mild and pleasant, freezing a little at night but
+invariably thawing with the morning's sun-resembling the spring
+weather in the middle parts of the United States.
+
+The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the
+Rocky Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north
+and west of the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of
+Salt River and Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest
+falls of snow. Their white robes lengthen as the winter advances,
+and spread themselves far into the plain, driving the buffalo in
+herds to the banks of the river in quest of food; where they are
+easily slain in great numbers.
+
+Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment;
+added to which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings
+of any petty band of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of
+retreat rendering it unwise for those crafty depredators to
+venture an attack unless with an overpowering force.
+
+About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians;
+numbering about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and
+cunning warriors and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they
+easily overcome in battles where their forces are equal. They are
+not vengeful and enterprising in warfare, however; seldom sending
+war parties to attack the Blackfeet towns, but contenting
+themselves with defending their own territories and house. About
+one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the rest with
+bows and arrows.
+
+As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of
+Snake River and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette.
+Here their horses wax fat on good pasturage, while the tribe
+revels in plenty upon the flesh of deer, elk, bear, and beaver.
+They then descend a little further, and are met by the Lower Nez
+Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving in exchange
+beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon the
+tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at
+the rise of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo
+range. Their horses, although of the Nez Perce breed, are
+inferior to the parent stock from being ridden at too early an
+age, being often bought when but two years old and immediately
+put to hard work. They have fewer horses, also, than most of
+these migratory tribes.
+
+At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of
+these Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief,
+surnamed The Horse. This chief was said to possess a charmed
+life, or rather, to be invulnerable to lead; no bullet having
+ever hit him, though he had been in repeated battles, and often
+shot at by the surest marksmen. He had shown great magnanimity in
+his intercourse with the white men. One of the great men of his
+family had been slain in an attack upon a band of trappers
+passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had been
+sworn by the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring
+himself the friend of white men and, having great influence and
+authority among his people, he compelled them to forcgo all
+vindictive plans and to conduct themselves amicably whenever they
+came in contact with the traders.
+
+This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the
+Blackfeet upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin
+River. His fall in nowise lessened the faith of his people in his
+charmed life; for they declared that it was not a bullet which
+laid him low, but a bit of horn which had been shot into him by
+some Blackfoot marksman aware, no doubt, of the inefficacy of
+lead. Since his death there was no one with sufficient influence
+over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory propensities of
+the young men.  The consequence was they had become troublesome
+and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of traffic,
+but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any
+small party that might fall within their reach.
+
+
+
+                               16
+                                
+Misadventures of Matthieu and his party   Return to the caches at
+Salmon River   Battle between Nez Perces and Black feet   Heroism
+       of a Nez Perce woman   Enrolled among the braves.
+
+
+ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band,
+arrived in camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After
+parting with Captain Bonneville in Green River Valley he had
+proceeded to the westward, keeping to the north of the Eutaw
+Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky chain. Here he experienced
+the most rugged travelling for his horses, and soon discovered
+that there was but little chance of meeting the Shoshonie bands.
+He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much frequented by
+trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to rejoin
+Captain Bonneville.
+
+He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery
+of an Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay
+encamped during the autumn and the early part of the winter,
+nearly buried in snow and almost starved. Early in the season he
+detached five men, with nine horses, to proceed to the
+neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear River, where game was
+plenty, and there to procure a supply for the camp.
+
+They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail
+was discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately
+commenced a lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or
+six days. So long as their encampments were well chosen and a
+proper watch maintained the wary savages kept aloof; at length,
+observing that they were badly encamped, in a situation where
+they might be approached with secrecy, the enemy crept stealthily
+along under cover of the river bank, preparing to burst suddenly
+upon their prey.
+
+They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before
+they were discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but
+silently gave the alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon
+their horses and prepared to retreat to a safe position. One of
+the party, however, named Jennings, doubted the correctness of
+the alarm, and before he mounted his horse wanted to ascertain
+the fact.  His companions urged him to mount, but in vain; he was
+incredulous and obstinate. A volley of firearms by the savages
+dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his nerves that he was
+unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing his peril and
+confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect him. A
+shot from a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he
+called upon the others not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and
+Ross, after fighting desperately, were captured by the savages;
+the remaining two vaulted into their saddles and saved themselves
+by headlong flight, being pursued for nearly thirty miles. They
+got safe back to Matthieu's camp, where their story inspired such
+dread of lurking Indians that the hunters could not be prevailed
+upon to undertake another foray in quest of provisions. They
+remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp; now and then
+killing an old or disabled horse for food, while the elk and the
+mountain sheep roamed unmolested among the surrounding mountains.
+
+The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by
+Captain Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching
+and judicious encampments in the Indian country. Most of this
+kind of disasters to traders and trappers arise from some
+careless inattention to the state of their arms and ammunition,
+the placing of their horses at night, the position of their
+camping ground, and the posting of their night watches. The
+Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given to
+hair-brained assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe
+well prepared and on the alert. Caution is at least as
+efficacious a protection against him as courage.
+
+The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be
+Blackfeet; until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the
+camp of the Bannecks, a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he
+recognized as having belonged to one of the hunters. The
+Bannecks, however, stoutly denied having taken these spoils in
+fight, and persisted in affirming that the outrage had been
+perpetrated by a Blackfoot band.
+
+Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks
+after the arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses
+having recovered strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared
+to return to the Nez Perces, or rather to visit his caches on
+Salmon River; that he might take thence goods and equipments for
+the opening season. Accordingly, leaving sixteen men at Snake
+River, he set out on the 19th of February with sixteen others on
+his journey to the caches.
+
+Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow,
+when he encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. 
+On the 21st he was again floundering through the snow, on the
+great Snake River plain, where it lay to the depth of thirty
+inches. It was sufficiently incrusted to bear a pedestrian, but
+the poor horses broke through the crust, and plunged and strained
+at every step.  So lacerated were they by the ice that it was
+necessary to change the front every hundred yards, and put a
+different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies were
+swept by a piercing and biting wind froIn the northwest. At
+night, they had to task their ingenuity to provide shelter and
+keep from freezing. In the first place, they dug deep holes in
+the snow, piling it up in ramparts to windward as a protection
+against the blast. Beneath these they spread buffalo skins, upon
+which they stretched themselves in full dress, with caps, cloaks,
+and moccasins, and covered themselves with numerous blankets;
+notwithstanding all which they were often severely pinched with
+the cold.
+
+On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River.
+This stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch
+of the Malade River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift
+current about twenty yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile
+to which it gives its name, and then enters the great plain
+where, after meandering about forty miles, it is finally lost in
+the region of the Burned Rocks.
+
+On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as
+to come upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the
+defile, where he remained encamped for two days to allow the
+hunters time to kill and dry a supply of buffalo beef. In this
+sheltered defile the weather was moderate and grass was already
+sprouting more than an inch in height.  There was abundance, too,
+of the salt weed which grows most plentiful in clayey and
+gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its name
+from a partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses
+in the winter, but they reject it the moment the young grass
+affords sufficient pasturage.
+
+On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party
+resumed their march, and moved on with comparative ease,
+excepting where they had to make their way through snow-drifts
+which had been piled up by the wind.
+
+On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep
+part of the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts
+were sent out to reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence
+that it was a hunting party of Flatheads, returning from the
+buffalo range laden with meat. Captain Bonneville joined them the
+next day, and persuaded them to proceed with his party a few
+miles below to the caches, whither he proposed also to invite the
+Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere in this neighborhood.
+In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that friendly tribe who,
+since he separated from them on Salmon River, had likewise been
+out to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted and
+harassed by their old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had
+contrived to carry off many of their horses.
+
+In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten
+lodges separated from the main body in search of better pasturage
+for their horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties
+of Blackfoot banditti united to the number of three hundred
+fighting men, and determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to
+the former camping ground of the Nez Perces, they found the
+lodges deserted; upon which they hid themselves among the willows
+and thickets, watching for some straggler who might guide them to
+the present "whereabout" of their intended victims. As fortune
+would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot renegade, was the first to
+pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought bride. He was on his
+way from the main body of hunters to the little band of ten
+lodges. The Blackfeet knew and marked him as he passed; he was
+within bowshot of their ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for
+his blood, they forbore to launch a shaft; sparing him for the
+moment that he might lead them to their prey. Secretly following
+his trail, they discovered the lodges of the unfortunate Nez
+Perces, and assailed them with shouts and yellings. The Nez
+Perces numbered only twenty men, and but nine were armed with
+fusees. They showed themselves, however, as brave and skilful in
+war as they had been mild and long-suffering in peace. Their
+first care was to dig holes inside of their lodges; thus
+ensconced they fought desperately, laying several of the enemy
+dead upon the ground; while they, though Some of them were
+wounded, lost not a single warrior.
+
+During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing
+her warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and
+arrows, and bravely and successfully defended his person,
+contributing to the safety of the whole party.
+
+In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched
+behind the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire
+from his covert. A Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log,
+and placing it before him as he lay prostrate, rolled it forward
+toward the trunk of the tree behind which his enemy lay crouched. 
+It was a moment of breathless interest; whoever first showed
+himself would be in danger of a shot. The Nez Perce put an end to
+the suspense. The moment the logs touched he Sprang upon his feet
+and discharged the contents of his fusee into the back of his
+antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of the
+horses, several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the
+Nez Perces, ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend
+themselves to the last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the
+Blackfeet party was a renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike
+Kosato, however, he had no vindictive rage against his native
+tribe, but was rather disposed, now he had got the booty, to
+spare all unnecessary effusion of blood.  He held a long parley,
+therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off his warriors,
+taking with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward, that the
+bullets of the Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the course
+of the battle, so that they were obliged to make use of stones as
+substitute.
+
+At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury
+rather than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed.
+A wound in the head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the
+earth. There his body remained when the battle was over, and the
+victors were leading off the horses. His wife hung over him with
+frantic lamentations.  The conquerors paused and urged her to
+leave the lifeless renegade, and return with them to her kindred.
+She refused to listen to their solicitations, and they passed on.
+As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving way to
+passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She
+was not mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it
+struck him, had stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry
+of his faithful wife he gradually recovered, reviving to a
+redoubled love for her, and hatred of his tribe.
+
+As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was
+elevated by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside
+other honorable distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take
+a part in the war dances of the braves!
+
+
+
+                               17
+                                
+  Opening of the caches   Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss  
+  Salmon River Mountains   Superstition of an Indian trapper  
+   Godin's River   Preparations for trapping   An alarm   An
+ interruption   A rival band   Phenomena of Snake River Plain  
+Vast clefts and chasms   Ingulfed streams   Sublime scenery   A
+                      grand buffalo hunt.
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having
+secretly opened them he selected such articles as were necessary
+to equip the free trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade
+with the Indians, after which he closed them again. The free
+trappers, being newly rigged out and supplied, were in high
+spirits, and swaggered gayly about the camp. To compensate all
+hands for past sufferings, and to give a cheerful spur to further
+operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the men what, in frontier
+phrase, is termed "a regular blow-out."  It was a day of uncouth
+gambols and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined in the
+sports and games, and all was mirth and good-fellowship.
+
+It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made
+preparations to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon
+Malade River for his main trapping ground for the season.  This
+is a stream which rises among the great bed of mountains north of
+the Lava Plain, and after a winding course falls into Snake
+River. Previous to his departure the captain dispatched Mr.
+Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and purchase
+horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a small
+stock of goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the
+spring, for such peltries as they might collect, appointing the
+caches on Salmon River as the point of rendezvous, where they
+were to rejoin him on the 15th of June following.
+
+This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of
+twenty-eight men composed of hired and free trappers and Indian
+hunters, together with eight squaws. Their route lay up along the
+right fork of Salmon River, as it passes through the deep defile
+of the mountains. They travelled very slowly, not above five
+miles a day, for many of the horses were so weak that they
+faltered and staggered as they walked.  Pasturage, however, was
+now growing plentiful.  There was abundance of fresh grass, which
+in some places had attained such height as to wave in the wind.
+The native flocks of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they
+are called by the trappers, were continually to be seen upon the
+hills between which they passed, and a good supply of mutton was
+provided by the hunters, as they were advancing toward a region
+of scarcity.
+
+In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to
+remark an instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions,
+which prevail among the Indians, and among some of the white men,
+with respect to the sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of
+his party were in the habit of exploring all the streams along
+which they passed, in search of "beaver lodges," and occasionally
+set their traps with some success. One of them, however, though
+an experienced and skilful trapper, was invariably unsuccessful.
+Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad luck, he at length
+conceived the idea that there was some odor about his person of
+which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach. He
+immediately set about a thorough purification. Making a rude
+sweating-house on the banks of the river, he would shut himself
+up until in a reeking perspiration, and then suddenly emerging,
+would plunge into the river. A number of these sweatings and
+plungings having, as he supposed, rendered his person perfectly
+"inodorous," he resumed his trapping with renovated hope.
+
+About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin's River,
+where they found the swamp full of "musk-rat houses." Here,
+therefore, Captain Bonneville determined to remain a few days and
+make his first regular attempt at trapping. That his maiden
+campaign might open with spirit, he promised the Indians and free
+trappers an extra price for every musk-rat they should take. All
+now set to work for the next day's sport. The utmost animation
+and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything looked
+auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats
+in the swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to
+find when they should reach the Malade River, and have a capital
+beaver country all to themselves, where they might trap at their
+leisure without molestation.
+
+In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the
+camp, shouting, or rather yelling, "A trail! a trail! -- lodge
+poles! lodge poles!"
+
+These were words full of meaning to a trapper's ear. They
+intimated that there was some band in the neighborhood, and
+probably a hunting party, as they had lodge poles for an
+encampment. The hunter came up and told his story. He had
+discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by the
+dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo,
+too, had just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed
+that the hunters had already been on the range.
+
+The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for
+musk-rat trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to
+examine the trail. Their worst fears were soon confirmed.
+Infallible signs showed the unknown party in the advance to be
+white men; doubtless, some rival band of trappers! Here was
+competition when least expected; and that too by a party already
+in the advance, who were driving the game before them. Captain
+Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions to which a
+trapper's life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an
+uninterrupted hunt was at an end; every countenance lowered with
+gloom and disappointment.
+
+Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to over-take
+the rival party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the
+meantime, he turned his back upon the swamp and its musk-rat
+houses and followed on at "long camps, which in trapper's
+language is equivalent to long stages. On the 6th of April he met
+his spies returning. They had kept on the trail like hounds until
+they overtook the party at the south end of Godin's defile. Here
+they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two prime trappers,
+all well appointed, with excellent horses in capital condition
+led by Milton Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie, and
+in full march for the Malade hunting ground. This was stunning
+news. The Malade River was the only trapping ground within reach;
+but to have to compete there with veteran trappers, perfectly at
+home among the mountains, and admirably mounted, while they were
+so poorly provided with horses and trappers, and had but one man
+in their party acquainted with the country-it was out of the
+question.
+
+The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still
+lay deep among the mountains of Godin's River and blocked up the
+usual pass to the Malade country, might detain the other party
+until Captain Bonneville's horses should get once more into good
+condition in their present ample pasturage.
+
+The rival parties now encamped together, not out of
+companionship, but to keep an eye upon each other. Day after day
+passed by without any possibility of getting to the Malade
+country. Sublette and Jarvie endeavored to force their way across
+the mountain; but the snows lay so deep as to oblige them to turn
+back. In the meantime the captain's horses were daily gaining
+strength, and their hoofs improving, which had been worn and
+battered by mountain service. The captain, also was increasing
+his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his favor.
+
+To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this
+difficulty of getting from Godin to Malade River will appear
+inexplicable, as the intervening mountains terminate in the great
+Snake River plain, so that, apparently, it would be perfectly
+easy to proceed round their bases.
+
+Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild
+and sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the
+feet of these mountains is broken up near their bases into
+crests, and ridges resembling the surges of the ocean breaking on
+a rocky shore.
+
+In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous
+and dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great
+depth. Captain Bonneville attempted to sound some of these
+openings, but without any satisfactory result. A stone dropped
+into one of them reverberated against the sides for apparently a
+very great depth, and, by its sound, indicated the same kind of
+substance with the surface, as long as the strokes could be
+heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious in avoiding danger,
+shrinks back in alarm from the least of these chasms, pricking up
+his ears, snorting and pawing, until permitted to turn away.
+
+We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country
+that it is sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to
+get round one of these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams,
+like that of Godin's River, that run with a bold, free current,
+lose themselves in this plain; some of them end in swamps, others
+suddenly disappear, finding, no doubt, subterranean outlets.
+
+Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps
+over precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty,
+the other forty feet in height.
+
+The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles
+in diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful
+waste; where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is
+to be seen but lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and,
+in Captain Bonneville's opinion, were formerly connected, until
+rent asunder by some convulsion of nature. Far to the east the
+Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely, and dominate this wide
+sea of lava -- one of the most striking features of a wilderness
+where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple grandeur.
+
+We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to
+explore this sublime but almost unknown region.
+
+It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of
+trappers broke up their encampments, and undertook to cross over
+the southwest end of the mountain by a pass explored by their
+scouts. From various points of the mountain they commanded
+boundless prospects of the lava plain, stretching away in cold
+and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye could reach. On the
+evening of the 26th they reached the plain west of the mountain,
+watered by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams, which
+comprised the contemplated trapping-ground.
+
+The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by
+Captain Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far
+West, presenting the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and
+plain, of bright running streams and vast grassy meadows waving
+to the breeze.
+
+We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign,
+which lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the
+manoeuvres of the rival trapping parties and their various
+schemes to outwit and out-trap each other. Suffice it to say
+that, after having visited and camped about various streams with
+varying success, Captain Bonneville set forward early in June for
+the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On the way, he treated
+his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re ported
+numerous herds in a plain beyond an intervening height.  There
+was an immediate halt; the fleetest horses were forthwith mounted 
+and the party advanced to the summit of the hill. Hence they
+beheld the great plain below; absolutely swarming with buffalo. 
+Captain Bonneville now appointed the place where he would encamp;
+and toward which the hunters were to drive the game. He cautioned
+the latter to advance slowly, reserving the strength and speed of
+the horses until within a moderate distance of the herds.
+Twenty-two horsemen descended cautiously into the plain,
+conformably to these directions. ""It was a beautiful sight,"
+says the captain, ""to see the runners, as they are called,
+advancing in column, at a slow trot, until within two hundred and
+fifty yards of the outskirts of the herd, then dashing on at full
+speed until lost in the immense multitude of buffaloes scouring
+the plain in every direction." All was now tumult and wild
+confusion. In the meantime Captain Bonneville and the residue of
+the party moved on to the appointed camping ground; thither the
+most expert runners succeeded in driving numbers of buffalo,
+which were killed hard by the camp, and the flesh transported
+thither without difficulty. In a little while the whole camp
+looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses were
+skilfully cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for
+drying and jerking beef, and an ample provision was made for
+future subsistence. On the 15th of June, the precise day
+appointed for the rendezvous, Captain Bonneville and his party
+arrived safely at the caches.
+
+Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party,
+all in good health and spirits. The caches were again opened,
+supplies of various kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of
+aqua vitae distributed throughout the camp, to celebrate with
+proper conviviality this merry meeting. 
+
+
+
+                              18.
+                                
+Meeting with Hodgkiss   Misfortunes of the Nez Perces   Schemes
+  of Kosato, the renegado   His foray into the Horse Prairie-
+Invasion of Black feet   Blue John and his forlorn hope   Their
+generous enterprise-Their fate-Consternation and despair of the
+village- Solemn obsequies -Attempt at Indian trade -Hudson's Bay
+ Company's monopoly-Arrangements for autumn- Breaking up of an
+                          encampment.
+
+HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped,
+Captain Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying
+himself in the secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but
+sallied forth boldly into the Snake River plain, in search of his
+clerk, Hodgkiss, who had remained with the Nez Perces. He found
+him on the 24th of June, and learned from him another chapter of
+misfortunes which had recently befallen that ill-fated race.
+
+After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the
+renegade Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in
+battle; and with his strength revived all his deadly hostility to
+his native tribe. He now resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez
+Perces to reprisals upon their old enemies; reminding them
+incessantly of all the outrages and robberies they had recently
+experienced, and assuring them that such would continue to be
+their lot until they proved themselves men by some signal
+retaliation.
+
+The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an
+effect; and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to
+penetrate into the Blackfoot country, harass their Villages,
+carry off their horses, and commit all kinds of depredations.
+
+Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie,
+where he came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting
+to estimate their force, he attacked them with characteristic
+fury, and was bravely seconded by his followers. The contest, for
+a time, was hot and bloody; at length, as is customary with these
+two tribes, they paused, and held a long parley, or rather a war
+of words.
+
+"What need," said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, "have the Nez
+Perces to leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when
+they have danger enough at their own doors? If you want fighting,
+return to your villages; you will have plenty of it there. The
+Blackfeet warriors have hitherto made war upon you as children.
+They are now coming as men. A great force is at hand; they are on
+their way to your towns, and are determined to rub out the very
+name of the Nez Perces from the mountains. Return, I say, to your
+towns, and fight there, if you wish to live any longer as a
+people."
+
+Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his
+native tribe.  Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces
+village, he told all that he had seen and heard, and urged the
+most prompt and strenuous measures for defence. The Nez Perces,
+however, heard him with their accustomed phlegm; the threat of
+the Blackfeet had been often made, and as often had proved a mere
+bravado; such they pronounced it to be at present, and, of
+course, took no precautions.
+
+They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few
+days a band of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the
+hills.  All now was consternation in the village. The force of
+the Nez Perces was too small to cope with the enemy in open
+fight; many of the young men having gone to their relatives on
+the Columbia to procure horses. The sages met in hurried council.
+What was to be done to ward off a blow which threatened
+annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a Pierced-nose
+chief, named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach
+secretly with a small, but chosen band, through a defile which
+led to the encampment of the enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to
+drive off the horses. Should this blow be successful, the spirit
+and strength of the invaders would be broken, and the Nez Perces,
+having horses, would be more than a match for them. Should it
+fail, the village would not be worse off than at present, when
+destruction appeared inevitable.
+
+Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to
+follow Blue John in this hazardous enterprise.  They prepared for
+it with the solemnity and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue
+John consulted his medicine, or talismanic charm, such as every
+chief keeps in his lodge as a supernatural protection. The oracle
+assured him that his enterprise would be completely successful,
+provided no rain should fall before he had passed through the
+defile; but should it rain, his band would be utterly cut off.
+
+The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the
+skies would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his
+forlorn hope; and never did band of braves make a more gallant
+display-horsemen and horses being decorated and equipped in the
+fiercest and most glaring style - glittering with arms and
+ornaments, and fluttering with feathers.
+
+The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but
+just as they were entering it a black cloud rose over the
+mountain crest, and there was a sudden shower. The warriors
+turned to their leader, as if to read his opinion of this unlucky
+omen; but the countenance of Blue John remained unchanged, and
+they continued to press forward. It was their hope to make their
+way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the Blackfoot camp; but
+they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they met a
+scouting party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among
+the hills, and were pursuing them with great eagerness when they
+heard shouts and yells behind them, and beheld the main body of
+the Blackfeet advancing.
+
+The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an
+instant retreat.  "We came to fight!" replied Blue John, sternly.
+Then giving his war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. 
+His braves followed him.  They made a headlong charge upon the
+enemy; not with the hope of victory, but the determination to
+sell their lives dearly. A frightful carnage, rather than a
+regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid heaps of their
+enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with numbers and
+pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued to
+fight until they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty,
+survived. He sprang on the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he
+had slain, and escaping at full speed, brought home the baleful
+tidings to his village.
+
+Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The
+flower of their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their
+doors. The air was rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the
+women, who, casting off their ornaments and tearing their hair,
+wandered about, frantically bewailing the dead and predicting
+destruction to the living. The remaining warriors armed
+themselves for obstinate defence; but showed by their gloomy
+looks and sullen silence that they considered defence hopeless.
+To their surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing their
+advantage; perhaps satisfied with the blood already shed, or
+disheartened by the loss they had themselves sustained. At any
+rate, they disappeared from the hills, and it was soon
+ascertained that they had returned to the Horse Prairie.
+
+The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few
+of their warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to
+bring away the bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found
+them mere headless trunks; and the wounds with which they were
+covered showed how bravely they had fought. Their hearts, too,
+had been torn out and carried off; a proof of their signal valor;
+for in devouring the heart of a foe renowned for bravery, or who
+has distinguished himself in battle, the Indian victor thinks he
+appropriates to himself the courage of the deceased.
+
+Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them
+across their pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal
+procession, to the village. The tribe came forth to meet them;
+the women with piercing cries and wailings; the men with downcast
+countenances, in which gloom and sorrow seemed fixed as if in
+marble. The mutilated and almost undistinguishable bodies were
+placed in rows upon the ground, in the midst of the assemblage;
+and the scene of heart-rending anguish and lamentation that
+ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian stoicism.
+
+Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces
+tribe during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was
+informed that Kosato, the renegade, who, being stationed in the
+village, had been prevented from going on the forlorn hope, was
+again striving to rouse the vindictive feelings of his adopted
+brethren, and to prompt them to revenge the slaughter of their
+devoted braves.
+
+During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville
+made one of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. 
+There was at this time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads,
+and Cottonois Indians encamped together upon the plain; well
+provided with beaver, which they had collected during the spring. 
+These they were waiting to traffic with a resident trader of the
+Hudson's Bay Company, who was stationed among them, and with whom
+they were accustomed to deal.  As it happened, the trader was
+almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply not
+having yet reached him.  Captain Bonneville had secret
+intelligence that the supplies were on their way, and would soon
+arrive; he hoped, how-ever, by a prompt move, to anticipate their
+arrival, and secure the market to himself. Throwing himself,
+therefore, among the Indians, he opened his packs of merchandise
+and displayed the most tempting wares: bright cloths, and scarlet
+blankets, and glittering ornaments, and everything gay and
+glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all, however, was in
+vain. The Hudson's Bay trader was a perfect master of his
+business, thoroughly acquainted with the Indians he had to deal
+with, and held such control over them that none dared to act
+openly in opposition to his wishes; nay, more -- he came nigh
+turning the tables upon the captain, and shaking the allegiance
+of some of his free trappers, by distributing liquors among them.
+The latter, therefore, was glad to give up a competition, where
+the war was likely to be carried into his own camp.
+
+In fact, the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company have advantages
+over all competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. 
+That huge monopoly centers within itself not merely its own
+hereditary and long-established power and influence; but also
+those of its ancient rival, but now integral part, the famous
+Northwest Company. It has thus its races of traders, trappers,
+hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought up in its service, and
+inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge and aptitude in
+everything connected with Indian life, and Indian traffic. In the
+process of years, this company has been enabled to spread its
+ramifications in every direction; its system of intercourse is
+founded upon a long and intimate knowledge of the character and
+necessities of the various tribes; and of all the fastnesses,
+defiles, and favorable hunting grounds of the country. Their
+capital, also, and the manner in which their supplies are
+distributed at various posts, or forwarded by regular caravans,
+keep their traders well supplied, and enable them to furnish
+their goods to the Indians at a cheap rate. Their men, too, being
+chiefly drawn from the Canadas, where they enjoy great influence
+and control, are engaged at the most trifling wages, and
+supported at little cost; the provisions which they take with
+them being little more than Indian corn and grease. They are
+brought also into the most perfect discipline and subordination,
+especially when their leaders have once got them to their scene
+of action in the heart of the wilderness.
+
+These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson's
+Bay Company a decided advantage over all the American companies
+that come within their range, so that any close competition with
+them is almost hopeless.
+
+Shortly after Captain Bonneville's ineffectual attempt to
+participate in the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of
+the Hudson's Bay Company arrived; and the resident trader was
+enabled to monopolize the market.
+
+It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which
+month Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse
+Creek in Green River Valley, with some of the parties which he
+had detached in the preceding year.  He now turned his thoughts
+in that direction, and prepared for the journey.
+
+The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their
+country; which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands
+of this tribe lie immediately north of those of the Flatheads and
+are open to the inroads of the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter
+professed to be their allies; but they had been guilty of so many
+acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois had, latterly, renounced
+their hollow friendship and attached themselves to the Flatheads
+and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their migrations
+rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages of the
+Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would
+range their country during their absence and destroy the beaver;
+this was their reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it
+his autumnal hunting ground. The latter, however, was not to be
+tempted; his engagements required his presence at the rendezvous
+in Green River Valley; and he had already formed his ulterior
+plans.
+
+An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly
+made a stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and
+weary journey; the route lay through Pierre's Hole, and other
+mountain passes infested by the Blackfeet, and recently the
+scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They were not disposed to
+undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers, when they had good
+and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the head-waters of
+Salmon River.
+
+As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim
+were apt to be law -- who had the whole wilderness before them,
+"where to choose," and the trader of a rival company at hand,
+ready to pay for their services -- it was necessary to bend to
+their wishes. Captain Bonneville fitted them out, therefore, for
+the hunting ground in question; appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as
+their partisan, or leader, and fixing a rendezvous where he
+should meet them in the course of the ensuing winter. The brigade
+consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or five hired men
+as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of a trapping
+party; which when accurately organized is composed of two thirds
+trappers whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of
+game; and one third camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set
+up the tents, take care of the horses and do all other duties
+usually assigned by the Indians to their women. This part of the
+service is apt to be fulfilled by French creoles from Canada and
+the valley of the Mississippi.
+
+In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their
+trade and received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in
+various directions. As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet
+just over a mountain to the northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his
+free trappers would have to pass; and as it was known that those
+sharp-sighted marauders had their scouts out watching every
+movement of the encampments, so as to cut off stragglers or weak
+detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed upon the Nez Perces to
+accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they should be beyond the
+range of the enemy.
+
+The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together
+at the same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested
+by the Blackfeet; while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was
+to strike in an opposite direction to the southeast, bending his
+course for Pierre's Hole, on his way to Green River.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the
+same moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was
+wild and picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and
+Indians, with their rugged and fantastic dresses and
+accoutrements; their varied weapons, their innumerable horses,
+some under the saddle, some burdened with packages, others
+following in droves; all stretching in lengthening cavalcades
+across the vast landscape, making for different points of the
+plains and mountains.
+
+
+
+                              19.
+                                
+Precautions in dangerous defiles   Trappers' mode of defence on a
+prairie   A mysterious visitor   Arrival in Green River Valley  
+Adventures of the detachments   The forlorn partisan   His tale
+                         of disasters.
+
+AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was
+considered the most perilous part of this region of dangers, he
+took all his measures with military skill, and observed the
+strictest circumspection. When on the march, a small scouting
+party was thrown in the advance to reconnoitre the country
+through which they were to pass. The encampments were selected
+with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day. The
+horses were brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a
+party was sent out to scour the neighborhood for half a mile
+round, beating up every grove and thicket that could give shelter
+to a lurking foe. When all was reported safe, the horses were
+cast loose and turned out to graze. Were such precautions
+generally observed by traders and hunters, we should not so often
+hear of parties being surprised by the Indians.
+
+Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may
+here mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have
+heard from a veteran in the Indian trade.  When a party of
+trappers is on a journey with a convoy of goods or peltries,
+every man has three pack-horses under his care; each horse laden
+with three packs.  Every man is provided with a picket with an
+iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern fetters for the
+horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a long line;
+or sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from each
+other to prevent the packs from interfering.  At an alarm, when
+there is no covert at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the
+front to the rear and form a circle. All then dismount, drive
+their pickets into the ground in the centre, fasten the horses to
+them, and hobble their forelegs, so that, in case of alarm, they
+cannot break away. Then they unload them, and dispose of their
+packs as breastworks on the periphery of the circle; each man
+having nine packs behind which to shelter himself. In this
+promptly-formed fortress, they await the assault of the enemy,
+and are enabled to set large bands of Indians at defiance.
+
+The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon
+Henry's Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the
+first American trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains.
+About an hour after all hands had come to a halt the clatter of
+hoofs was heard, and a solitary female, of the Nez Perce tribe,
+came galloping up. She was mounted on a mustang or half wild
+horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched round the under
+jaw by way of bridle.  Dismounting, she walked silently into the
+midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground, still
+holding her horse by the long halter.
+
+The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet
+resolute demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and
+trappers gathered round, and gazed on her as something
+mysterious. She remained silent, but maintained her air of
+calmness and self-possession. Captain Bonneville approached and
+interrogated her as to the object of her mysterious visit. Her
+answer was brief but earnest -- "I love the whites -- I will go
+with them." She was forthwith invited to a lodge, of which she
+readily took possession, and from that time forward was
+considered one of the camp.
+
+In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of
+Captain Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this
+hazardous region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred,
+excepting the loss of a horse, which, in passing along the giddy
+edge of a precipice, called the Cornice, a dangerous pass between
+Jackson's and Pierre's Hole, fell over the brink, and was dashed
+to pieces.
+
+On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green
+River. As he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every
+direction with the carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that
+Indians had recently been there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at
+this sight, he came to a halt, and as soon as it was dark, sent
+out spies to his place of rendezvous on Horse Creek, where he had
+expected to meet with his detached parties of trappers on the
+following day. Early in the morning the spies made their
+appearance in the camp, and with them came three trappers of one
+of his bands, from the rendezvous, who told him his people were
+all there expecting him. As to the slaughter among the buffaloes,
+it had been made by a friendly band of Shoshonies, who had fallen
+in with one of his trapping parties, and accompanied them to the
+rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the three worthies
+from the rendezvous broached a small keg of "alcohol," which they
+had brought with them. to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor
+went briskly round; all absent friends were toasted, and the
+party moved forward to the rendezvous in high spirits.
+
+The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from
+each other on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting;
+each having its tales of perils and adventures to relate.  Such
+was the case with the various detachments of Captain Bonneville's
+company, thus brought together on Horse Creek.  Here was the
+detachment of fifty men which he had sent from Salmon River, in
+the preceding month of November, to winter on Snake River. They
+had met with many crosses and losses in the course of their
+spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men.  They
+had come in competition with rival trapping parties, particularly
+one belonging to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had
+long stories to relate of their manoeuvres to forestall or
+distress each other. In fact, in these virulent and sordid
+competitions, the trappers of each party were more intent upon
+injuring their rivals, than benefitting themselves; breaking each
+other's traps, trampling and tearing to pieces the beaver lodges,
+and doing every thing in their power to mar the success of the
+hunt. We forbear to detail these pitiful contentions.
+
+The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain
+Bonneville had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached
+in the preceding year, with twenty men, to hunt through the
+outskirts of the Crow country, and on the tributary streams of
+the Yellowstone; whence he was to proceed and join him in his
+winter quarters on Salmon River.  This partisan appeared at the
+rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful tale of disasters
+had he to relate.  In hunting the Crow country, he fell in with a
+village of that tribe; notorious rogues,  jockeys, and horse
+stealers, and errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed
+most of his men to desert, and carry off horses, traps, and
+accoutrements. When he attempted to retake the deserters, the
+Crow warriors ruffled up to him and declared the deserters were
+their good friends, had determined to remain among them, and
+should not be molested. The poor partisan, therefore, was fain to
+leave his vagabonds among these birds of their own feather, and
+being too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous pass across
+the mountains to meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he
+made, with the few that remained faithful to him, for the
+neighborhood of Tullock's Fort, on the Yellowstone, under the
+protection of which he went into winter quarters.
+
+He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as
+bad as the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually
+stealing away thither, with whatever beaver skins they could
+secrete or lay their hands on. These they would exchange with the
+hangers-on of the fort for whiskey, and then revel in drunkeness
+and debauchery.
+
+The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his
+party a few free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood,
+he started off early in the spring to trap on the head waters of
+Powder River.  In the course of the journey, his horses were so
+much jaded in traversing a steep mountain, that he was induced to
+turn them loose to graze during the night. The place was lonely;
+the path was rugged; there was not the sign of an Indian in the
+neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had been turned by a
+footstep. But who can calculate on security in the midst of the
+Indian country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy, and
+seems to come and go on the wings of the wind? The horses had
+scarce been turned loose, when a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree)
+warriors entered the camp. They affected a frank and friendly
+demeanor; but their appearance and movements awakened the
+suspicions of some of the veteran trappers, well versed in Indian
+wiles. Convinced that they were spies sent on some sinister
+errand, they took them in custody, and set to work to drive in
+the horses. It was too late -- the horses were already gone. In
+fact, a war party of Arickaras had been hovering on their trail
+for several days, watching with the patience and perseverance of
+Indians, for some moment of negligence and fancied security, to
+make a successful swoop. The two spies had evidently been sent
+into the camp to create a diversion, while their confederates
+carried off the spoil.
+
+The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously
+on his prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and
+swore to put them to death unless his property were restored. The
+robbers, who soon found that their spies were in captivity, now
+made their appearance on horseback, and held a parley. The sight
+of them, mounted on the very horses they had stolen, set the
+blood of the mountaineers in a ferment; but it was useless to
+attack them, as they would have but to turn their steeds and
+scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was now
+attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms;
+to barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The
+mountaineers spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless
+all the horses were relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt
+to death. To give force to their threat, a pyre of logs and
+fagots was heaped up and kindled into a blaze.
+
+The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then
+another, in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that
+nothing short of the relinquishment of all their spoils would
+purchase the lives of the captives, they abandoned them to their
+fate, moving off with many parting words and lamentable howlings.
+The prisoners seeing them depart, and knowing the horrible fate
+that awaited them, made a desperate effort to escape. They
+partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and retaken; then
+dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the sight of
+their retreating comrades.
+
+Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise,
+who mingle in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to
+terrible recrimination on the part of the Indians. Should we hear
+of any atrocities committed by the Arickaras upon captive white
+men, let this signal and recent provocation be borne in mind.
+Individual cases of the kind dwell in the recollections of whole
+tribes; and it is a point of honor and conscience to revenge
+them.
+
+The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky
+partisan. It was out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to
+maintain his party; the only thought now was how to get back to
+civilized life. At the first water-course, his men built canoes,
+and committed themselves to the stream. Some engaged themselves
+at various trading establishments at which they touched, others
+got back to the settlements. As to the partisan, he found an
+opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous at Green River
+Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain Bonneville
+this forlorn account of his misadventures.
+
+
+
+
+                               20
+                                
+   Gathering in Green River valley Visitings and feastings of
+ leaders Rough wassailing among the trappers Wild blades of the
+mountains Indian belles Potency of bright beads and red blankets 
+Arrival of supplies Revelry and extravagance Mad wolves The lost
+                            Indian 
+
+THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those
+general gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we
+have already mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a
+year past had been endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit
+each other, were here encamped in close proximity, awaiting their
+annual supplies. About four miles from the rendezvous of Captain
+Bonneville was that of the American Fur Company, hard by which,
+was that also of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.
+
+After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these
+companies in their late campaigns, it might be expected that,
+when thus brought in juxtaposition, they would hold themselves
+warily and sternly aloof from each other, and, should they happen
+to come in contact, brawl and bloodshed would ensue.
+
+No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the
+bar, meet with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The
+hunting season over, all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten,
+all feuds and bickerings buried in oblivion. From the middle of
+June to the middle of September, all trapping is suspended; for
+the beavers are then shedding their furs and their skins are of
+little value. This, then, is the trapper's holiday, when he is
+all for fun and frolic, and ready for a saturnalia among the
+mountains.
+
+At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The
+year had been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen
+their profits, had quickened their wits, roused their energies,
+and made them turn every favorable chance to the best advantage;
+so that, on assembling at their respective places of rendezvous,
+each company found itself in possession of a rich stock of
+peltries.
+
+The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on
+terms of perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and
+regaling each other in the best style their respective camps
+afforded. But the rich treat for the worthy captain was to see
+the "chivalry" of the various encampments, engaged in contests of
+skill at running, jumping, wrestling, shooting with the rifle,
+and running horses. And then their rough hunters' feastings and
+carousels. They drank together, they sang, they laughed, they
+whooped; they tried to out-brag and out-lie each other in stories
+of their adventures and achievements. Here the free trappers were
+in all their glory; they considered themselves the "cocks of the
+walk," and always carried the highest crests. Now and then
+familiarity was pushed too far, and would effervesce into a
+brawl, and a "rough and tumble" fight; but it all ended in
+cordial reconciliation and maudlin endearment.
+
+The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to
+cause temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties
+became objects of rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers.
+Happy was the trapper who could muster up a red blanket, a string
+of gay beads, or a paper of precious vermilion, with which to win
+the smiles of a Shoshonie fair one.
+
+The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this
+period of gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of
+eager competition and wild prodigality at the different
+encampments. Bales were hastily ripped open, and their motley
+contents poured forth. A mania for purchasing spread itself
+throughout the several bands--munitions for war, for hunting, for
+gallantry, were seized upon with equal avidity--rifles, hunting
+knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red blankets, garish beads, and
+glittering trinkets, were bought at any price, and scores run up
+without any thought how they were ever to be rubbed off. The free
+trappers, especially, were extravagant in their purchases. For a
+free mountaineer to pause at a paltry consideration of dollars
+and cents, in the attainment of any object that might strike his
+fancy, would stamp him with the mark of the beast in the
+estimation of his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of these
+free and flourishing blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores
+might stare him in the face, would be a flagrant affront scarcely
+to be forgiven.
+
+Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The
+trappers were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with
+their horses caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties
+also flaunted about in all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak
+of prodigality was indulged to its fullest extent, and in a
+little while most of the trappers, having squandered away all
+their wages, and perhaps run knee-deep in debt, were ready for
+another hard campaign in the wilderness.
+
+During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad
+wolves in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals
+entered the camps for three nights successively, and bit several
+of the people.
+
+Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a
+universal favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one
+of these animals. Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he
+grew silent and gloomy, and lagged behind the rest as if he
+wished to leave them. They halted and urged him to move faster,
+but he entreated them not to approach him, and, leaping from his
+horse, began to roll frantically on the earth, gnashing his teeth
+and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his senses, and
+warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not be
+able to restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to
+obtain relief; but on their return he was nowhere to be found.
+His horse and his accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or
+four days afterwards a solitary Indian, believed to be the same,
+was observed crossing a valley, and pursued; but he darted away
+into the fastnesses of the mountains, and was seen no more.
+
+Another instance we have from a different person who was present
+in the encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur
+Company had been bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company
+with two white men on his return to the settlements. In the
+course of a few days he showed symptoms of hydrophobia, and
+became raving toward night. At length, breaking away from his
+companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows, where they left
+him to his fate!
+
+
+
+                               21
+                                
+Schemes of Captain Bonneville The Great Salt Lake Expedition to
+     explore it Preparations for a journey to the Bighorn 
+
+CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy,
+well-seasoned and well-appointed company of trappers, all
+benefited by at least one year's experience among the mountains,
+and capable of protecting themselves from Indian wiles and
+stratagems, and of providing for their subsistence wherever game
+was to be found. He had, also, an excellent troop of horses, in
+prime condition, and fit for hard service. He determined,
+therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of his
+scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of
+the unknown tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally
+termed the buffalo range. This would have something of the merit
+and charm of discovery, so dear to every brave and adventurous
+spirit. Another favorite project was to establish a trading post
+on the lower part of the Columbia River, near the Multnomah
+valley, and to endeavor to retrieve for his country some of the
+lost trade of Astoria.
+
+The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost
+in his mind--the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand
+features of the wilderness about which he was roaming, one had
+made a vivid impression on his mind, and been clothed by his
+imagination with vague and ideal charms. This is a great lake of
+salt water, laving the feet of the mountains, but extending far
+to the west-southwest, into one of those vast and elevated
+plateaus of land, which range high above the level of the
+Pacific.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen
+from the land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says
+he, you behold this immense body of water spreading itself before
+you, and stretching further and further, in one wide and
+far-reaching expanse, until the eye, wearied with continued and
+strained attention, rests in the blue dimness of distance, upon
+lofty ranges of mountains, confidently asserted to rise from the
+bosom of the waters. Nearer to you, the smooth and unruffled
+surface is studded with little islands, where the mountain sheep
+roam in considerable numbers. What extent of lowland may be
+encompassed by the high peaks beyond, must remain for the present
+matter of mere conjecture though from the form of the summits,
+and the breaks which may be discovered among them, there can be
+little doubt that they are the sources of streams calculated to
+water large tracts, which are probably concealed from view by the
+rotundity of the lake's surface. At some future day, in all
+probability, the rich harvest of beaver fur, which may be
+reasonably anticipated in such a spot, will tempt adventurers to
+reduce all this doubtful region to the palpable certainty of a
+beaten track.  At present, however, destitute of the means of
+making boats, the trapper stands upon the shore, and gazes upon a
+promised land which his feet are never to tread.
+
+Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives
+to this great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his
+ideas concerning it from the representations of others, who have
+somewhat exaggerated its features. It is reported to be about one
+hundred and fifty miles long, and fifty miles broad. The ranges
+of mountain peaks which Captain Bonneville speaks of, as rising
+from its bosom, are probably the summits of mountains beyond it,
+which may be visible at a vast distance, when viewed from an
+eminence, in the transparent atmosphere of these lofty regions.
+Several large islands certainly exist in the lake; one of which
+is said to be mountainous, but not by any means to the extent
+required to furnish the series of peaks above mentioned.
+
+Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the
+mountains, is said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to
+explore the lake, who professed to have navigated all round it;
+but to have suffered excessively from thirst, the water of the
+lake being extremely salt, and there being no fresh streams
+running into it.
+
+Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men
+accomplished the circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake
+receives several large streams from the mountains which bound it
+to the east. In the spring, when the streams are swollen by rain
+and by the melting of the snows, the lake rises several feet
+above its ordinary level during the summer, it gradually subsides
+again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt upon its
+shores.
+
+The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated,
+is estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a
+mile above the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and
+transparency of the atmosphere in this region, allowing objects
+to be seen, and the report of firearms to be heard, at an
+astonishing distance; and its extreme dryness, causing the wheels
+of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced in former passages of
+this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the Rocky Mountain
+plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a height
+is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though
+the salt lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation.
+
+To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets
+revealed, was the grand scheme of the captain for the present
+year; and while it was one in which his imagination evidently
+took a leading part, he believed it would be attended with great
+profit, from the numerous beaver streams with which the lake must
+be fringed.
+
+This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr.
+Walker, in whose experience and ability he had great confidence.
+He instructed him to keep along the shores of the lake, and trap
+in all the streams on his route; also to keep a journal, and
+minutely to record the events of his journey, and everything
+curious or interesting, making maps or charts of his route, and
+of the surrounding country.
+
+No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of
+forty men, which he was to command. They had complete supplies
+for a year, and were to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing
+summer, in the valley of Bear River, the largest tributary of the
+Salt Lake, which was to be his point of general rendezvous.
+
+The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe
+transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the
+Atlantic States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette,
+was at this time in the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur
+Company, having brought up their supplies. He was about to set
+off on his return, with the peltries collected during the year,
+and intended to proceed through the Crow country, to the head of
+navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend in boats down
+that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St. Louis.
+
+Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same
+route, under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he
+would accompany Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make
+an autumnal hunt in the Crow country.
+
+
+
+                               22
+                                
+The Crow country A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows Anecdotes of
+Rose, the renegade white man  His fights with the Blackfeet His
+    elevation His death Arapooish, the Crow chief His eagle 
+        Adventure of Robert Campbell Honor among Crows 
+
+BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we
+will impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild
+people who inhabit it. We are not aware of the precise
+boundaries, if there are any, of the country claimed by the
+Crows; it appears to extend from the Black Hills to the Rocky
+Mountains, including a part of their lofty ranges, and embracing
+many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind River, the
+Yellowstone, the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the
+Nebraska. The country varies in soil and climate; there are vast
+plains of sand and clay, studded with large red sand-hills; other
+parts are mountainous and picturesque; it possesses warm springs,
+and coal mines, and abounds with game.
+
+But let us give the account of the country as rendered by
+Arapooish, a Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky
+Mountain Fur Company.
+
+"The Crow country," said he, "is a good country. The Great Spirit
+has put it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you
+fare well; whenever you go out of it, whichever way you travel,
+you fare worse.
+
+"If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren
+plains; the water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and
+ague.
+
+"To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with
+no grass; you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with
+dogs. What is a country without horses?
+
+"On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes,
+and eat fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking
+fish-bones out of their mouths. Fish is poor food.
+
+"To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they
+drink the muddy water of the Missouri--that is bad. A Crow's dog
+would not drink such water.
+
+"About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water;
+good grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as
+the Crow country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone;
+and there is no salt weed for the horses.
+
+"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy
+mountains and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things
+for every season. When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you
+can draw up under the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool,
+the grass fresh, and the bright streams come tumbling out of the
+snow-banks. There you can hunt the elk, the deer, and the
+antelope, when their skins are fit for dressing; there you will
+find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep.
+
+"In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the
+mountain pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the
+buffalo, or trap beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on,
+you can take shelter in the woody bottoms along the rivers; there
+you will find buffalo meat for yourselves, and cotton-wood bark
+for your horses: or you may winter in the Wind River valley,
+where there is salt weed in abundance.
+
+"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good
+is to be found there. There is no country like the Crow country."
+
+Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish.
+
+We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and
+predatory habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred
+fighting men, but their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and
+their vagabond, predatory habits, are gradually wearing them out.
+
+In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man
+named Rose, an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as
+guide and interpreter to Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey
+across the mountains to Astoria, who came near betraying them
+into the hands of the Crows, and who remained among the tribe,
+marrying one of their women, and adopting their congenial habits.
+A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of that renegade may
+not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected with the
+fortunes of the tribe.
+
+Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by
+his daring deeds took his rank among the first braves of the
+tribe. He aspired to command, and knew it was only to be attained
+by desperate exploits. He distinguished himself in repeated
+actions with Blackfeet. On one occasion, a band of those savages
+had fortified themselves within a breastwork, and could not be
+harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work. "Who will take the
+lead?" was the demand. "I!" cried he; and putting himself at
+their head, rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed him
+he shot down with his rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of
+his victim, killed four others within the fort. The victory was
+complete, and Rose returned to the Crow village covered with
+glory, and bearing five Blackfoot scalps, to be erected as a
+trophy before his lodge. From this time, he was known among the
+Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats, or "the man who killed five."
+He became chief of the village, or rather band, and for a time
+was the popular idol. His popularity soon awakened envy among the
+native braves; he was a stranger, an intruder, a white man. A
+party seceded from his command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded
+that lasted for two or three years, until Rose, having contrived
+to set his adopted brethren by the ears, left them, and went down
+the Missouri in 1823. Here he fell in with one of the earliest
+trapping expeditions sent by General Ashley across the mountains.
+It was conducted by Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose
+enlisted with them as guide and interpreter. When he got them
+among the Crows, he was exceedingly generous with their goods;
+making presents to the braves of his adopted tribe, as became a
+high-minded chief.
+
+This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that
+expedition, Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in
+Green River valley; the place where the robbery took place still
+bears the name of Horse Creek. We are not informed whether the
+horses were stolen through the instigation and management of
+Rose; it is not improbable, for such was the perfidy he had
+intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr. Hunt and his
+party.
+
+The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When
+General Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in
+1825, to protect the fur trade, he held a conference with the
+Crow nation, at which Rose figured as Indian dignitary and Crow
+interpreter. The military were stationed at some little distance
+from the scene of the "big talk"; while the general and the
+chiefs were smoking pipes and making speeches, the officers,
+supposing all was friendly, left the troops, and drew near the
+scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing Crows, perceiving
+this, stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, contrived to
+stop the touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly
+after, a misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the
+Indians, knowing the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A
+tumult arose. In the confusion, Colonel O'Fallan snapped a pistol
+in the face of a brave, and knocked him down with the butt end.
+The Crows were all in a fury. A chance-medley fight was on the
+point of taking place, when Rose, his natural sympathies as a
+white man suddenly recurring, broke the stock of his fusee over
+the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so vigorously about him with
+the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng to flight. Luckily,
+as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting calmed the
+fury of the Crows, and the tumult ended without serious
+consequences.
+
+What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not
+distinctly known. Some report him to have fallen a victim to
+disease, brought on by his licentious life; others assert that he
+was murdered in a feud among the Crows. After all, his residence
+among these savages, and the influence he acquired over them,
+had, for a time, some beneficial effects. He is said, not merely
+to have rendered them more formidable to the Blackfeet, but to
+have opened their eyes to the policy of cultivating the
+friendship of the white men.
+
+After Rose's death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with
+indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned,
+who had been his great friend, and whose character he had
+contributed to develope. This sagacious chief endeavored, on
+every occasion, to restrain the predatory propensities of his
+tribe when directed against the white men. "If we keep friends
+with them," said he, "we have nothing to fear from the Blackfeet,
+and can rule the mountains." Arapooish pretended to be a great
+"medicine man", a character among the Indians which is a compound
+of priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried about with
+him a tame eagle, as his "medicine" or familiar. With the white
+men, he acknowledged that this was all charlatanism, but said it
+was necessary, to give him weight and influence among his people.
+
+Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in
+the course of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in
+the village of Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the
+chieftain. He had collected a large quantity of furs, and,
+fearful of being plundered, deposited but a part in the lodge of
+the chief; the rest he buried in a cache. One night, Arapooish
+came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and seated himself for a
+time without saying a word. At length, turning to Campbell, "You
+have more furs with you," said he, "than you have brought into my
+lodge?"
+
+"I have," replied Campbell.
+
+"Where are they?"
+
+Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an
+Indian; and the importance of complete frankness. He described
+the exact place where he had concealed his peltries.
+
+" 'Tis well," replied Arapooish; "you speak straight. It is just
+as you say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many
+skins have been taken from it."
+
+Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about
+one hundred and fifty beaver skins.
+
+Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly
+reproached his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to
+their honor; and commanded that whoever had taken the skins,
+should bring them back: declaring that, as Campbell was his guest
+and inmate of his lodge, he would not eat nor drink until every
+skin was restored to him.
+
+The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now
+charged Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who
+should bring in the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were
+delivered.
+
+In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a
+few at a time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who
+brought them departed without saying a word. The day passed away.
+Arapooish sat in one corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe,
+scarcely moving a muscle of his countenance. When night arrived,
+he demanded if all the skins had been brought in. Above a hundred
+had been given up, and Campbell expressed himself contented. Not
+so the Crow chieftain. He fasted all that night, nor tasted a
+drop of water. In the morning, some more skins were brought in,
+and continued to come, one and two at a time, throughout the day,
+until but a few were wanting to make the number complete.
+Campbell was now anxious to put an end to this fasting of the old
+chief, and again declared that he was perfectly satisfied.
+Arapooish demanded what number of skins were yet wanting. On
+being told, he whispered to some of his people, who disappeared.
+After a time the number were brought in, though it was evident
+they were not any of the skins that had been stolen, but others
+gleaned in the village.
+
+"Is all right now?" demanded Arapooish.
+
+"All is right," replied Campbell.
+
+"Good! Now bring me meat and drink!"
+
+When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with
+his guest.
+
+"When you come another time among the Crows," said he, "don't
+hide your goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put
+your goods in the lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide
+them in a cache, and any one who finds will steal them. My people
+have now given up your goods for my sake; but there are some
+foolish young men in the village, who may be disposed to be
+troublesome. Don't linger, therefore, but pack your horses and be
+off."
+
+Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow
+country. He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so
+black as they are painted. "Trust to their honor," says he, "and
+you are safe: trust to their honesty, and they will steal the
+hair off your head."
+
+Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume
+the course of our narrative.
+
+
+
+                              23.
+                                
+Departure from Green River valley Popo Agie Its course The rivers
+     into which it runs Scenery of the Bluffs the great Tar
+ Spring Volcanic tracts in the Crow country Burning Mountain of
+  Powder River Sulphur springs Hidden fires Colter's Hell Wind
+  River Campbell's party Fitzpatrick and his trappers Captain
+ Stewart, an amateur traveller Nathaniel Wyeth Anecdotes of his
+expedition to the Far West Disaster of Campbell's party A union
+         of bands The Bad Pass The rapids Departure of
+     Fitzpatrick Embarkation of peltries Wyeth and his bull
+      boat Adventures of Captain Bonneville in the Bighorn
+ Mountains Adventures in the plain Traces of Indians Travelling
+     precautions Dangers of making a smoke  The rendezvous
+
+ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set
+out on his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of
+fifty-six men, including those who were to embark with Cerre.
+Crossing the Green River valley, he proceeded along the south
+point of the Wind River range of mountains, and soon fell upon
+the track of Mr. Robert Campbell's party, which had preceded him
+by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived that it led down
+the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this was
+different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to
+the northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This
+stream takes its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like
+most Indian names, is characteristic.  Popo, in the Crow
+language, signifies head; and Agie, river. It is the head of a
+long river, extending from the south end of the Wind River
+Mountains in a northeast direction, until it falls into the
+Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains, but is twice
+crossed by chains of mountains; the first called the Littlehorn;
+the second, the Bighorn. After it has forced its way through the
+first chain, it is called the Horn River; after the second chain,
+it is called the Bighorn River.  Its passage through this last
+chain is rough and violent; making repeated falls, and rushing
+down long and furious rapids, which threaten destruction to the
+navigator; though a hardy trapper is said to have shot down them
+in a canoe. At the foot of these rapids, is the head of
+navigation; where it was the intention of the parties to
+construct boats, and embark.
+
+Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came
+again in full view of the "Bluffs," as they are called, extending
+from the base of the Wind River Mountains far away to the east,
+and presenting to the eye a confusion of hills and cliffs of red
+sandstone, some peaked and angular, some round, some broken into
+crags and precipices, and piled up in fantastic masses; but all
+naked and sterile. There appeared to be no soil favorable to
+vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all this
+isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical
+tints and hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty.  
+
+In this neighborhood, the captain made search for "the great Tar
+Spring," one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal
+properties of which, he had heard extravagantly lauded by the
+trappers. After a toilsome search, he found it at the foot of a
+sand-bluff, a little east of the Wind River Mountains; where it
+exuded in a small stream of the color and consistency of tar. The
+men immediately hastened to collect a quantity of it, to use as
+an ointment for the galled backs of their horses, and as a balsam
+for their own pains and aches. From the description given of it,
+it is evidently the bituminous oil, called petrolium or naphtha,
+which forms a principal ingredient in the potent medicine called
+British Oil. It is found in various parts of Europe and Asia, in
+several of the West India islands, and in some places of the
+United States. In the state of New York, it is called Seneca Oil,
+from being found near the Seneca lake.  
+
+The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in
+superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by
+the trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River,
+abounding with anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and
+cracked; in many places emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as
+if covering concealed fires. A volcanic tract of similar
+character is found on Stinking River, one of the tributaries of
+the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the odor derived
+from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned place
+was first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and
+Clarke's exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his
+lonely wanderings, and gave such an account of its gloomy
+terrors, its hidden fires, smoking pits, noxious streams, and the
+all-pervading "smell of brimstone," that it received, and has
+ever since retained among trappers, the name of "Colter's Hell!"  
+
+Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie,
+Captain Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found
+several large streams entering from the west. Among these was
+Wind River, which gives its name to the mountains among which it
+takes its rise. This is one of the most important streams of the
+Crow country. The river being much swollen, Captain Bonneville
+halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for a fording
+place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the
+afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the
+hills on the opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was
+that they were Indians; he soon discovered, however, that they
+were white men, and, by the long line of pack-horses, ascertained
+them to be the convoy of Campbell, which, having descended the
+Sweet Water, was now on its way to the Horn River.  
+
+The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on
+the 4th of August, after having passed through the gap of the
+Littlehorn Mountain. In company with Campbell's convoy was a
+trapping party of the Rocky Mountain Company, headed by
+Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell's embarkation on the Bighorn,
+was to take charge of all the horses, and proceed on a trapping
+campaign. There were, moreover, two chance companions in the
+rival camp. One was Captain Stewart, of the British army, a
+gentleman of noble connections, who was amusing himself by a
+wandering tour in the Far West; in the course of which, he had
+lived in hunter's style; accompanying various bands of traders,
+trappers, and Indians; and manifesting that relish for the
+wilderness that belongs to men of game spirit.  
+
+The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell's camp was Mr. Nathaniel
+Wyeth; the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon
+fishers, with whom we parted company in the valley of Pierre's
+Hole, after the battle with the Blackfeet. A few days after that
+affair, he again set out from the rendezvous in company with
+Milton Sublette and his brigade of trappers. On his march, he
+visited the battle ground, and penetrated to the deserted fort of
+the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a dismal scene.
+The fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the slain;
+while vultures soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around;
+and Indian dogs howled about the place, as if bewailing the death
+of their masters.  Wyeth travelled for a considerable distance to
+the southwest, in company with Milton Sublette, when they
+separated; and the former, with eleven men, the remnant of his
+band, pushed on for Snake River; kept down the course of that
+eventful stream; traversed the Blue Mountains, trapping beaver
+occasionally by the way, and finally, after hardships of all
+kinds, arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver, on the
+Columbia, the main factory of the Hudson's Bay Company.  
+
+He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of
+that company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the
+wilderness, or tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most
+part, to continue any longer in his service. Some set off for the
+Sandwich Islands; some entered into other employ. Wyeth found,
+too, that a great part of the goods he had brought with him were
+unfitted for the Indian trade; in a word, his expedition,
+undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a failure. He
+lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as
+strong as ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that
+could be of service to him in the further prosecution of his
+project; collected all the information within his reach, and then
+set off, accompanied by merely two men, on his return journey
+across the continent. He had got thus far "by hook and by crook,"
+a mode in which a New England man can make his way all over the
+world, and through all kinds of difficulties, and was now bound
+for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a company
+for the salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia.  
+
+The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course
+of their route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men,
+who were reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body,
+were visited one night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty
+Shoshonies. Considering this tribe as perfectly friendly, they
+received them in the most cordial and confiding manner. In the
+course of the night, the man on guard near the horses fell sound
+asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head, and nearly
+killed him. The savages then made off with the horses, leaving
+the rest of the party to find their way to the main body on foot. 
+
+
+The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus
+fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in
+great good fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred
+men. The captain, however, began to entertain doubts that
+Fitzpatrick and his trappers, who kept profound silence as to
+their future movements, intended to hunt the same grounds which
+he had selected for his autumnal campaign; which lay to the west
+of the Horn River, on its tributary streams. In the course of his
+march, therefore, he secretly detached a small party of trappers,
+to make their way to those hunting grounds, while he continued on
+with the main body; appointing a rendezvous, at the next full
+moon, about the 28th of August, at a place called the Medicine
+Lodge.  
+
+On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where
+the river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile,
+with cascades and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave
+its banks, and traverse the mountains by a rugged and frightful
+route, emphatically called the "Bad Pass." Descending the
+opposite side, they again made for the river banks; and about the
+middle of August, reached the point below the rapids where the
+river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain Bonneville
+detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten men, to
+seek and join those whom he had detached while on the route;
+appointing for them the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,)
+on the 28th of August.  
+
+All hands now set to work to construct "bull boats," as they are
+technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic
+of the expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed
+of buffalo skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also,
+called skin boats. Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual
+promptness and hardihood, launched his frail bark, singly, on
+this wild and hazardous voyage, down an almost interminable
+succession of rivers, winding through countries teeming with
+savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow traveller, and
+his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre's Hole, took passage
+in his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two
+Indians. We shall hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in
+the course of our wanderings about the Far West.  
+
+The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments.
+That of Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in
+which he embarked all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr.
+Cerre, with a party of thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command
+of his own boats, and the little squadrons were soon gliding down
+the bright current of the Bighorn.  
+
+The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to
+throw his men first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn,
+were, probably, superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick
+had intended to hunt in that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell
+and his men embarked with the peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge
+of all the horses, amounting to above a hundred, and struck off
+to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder, and Tongue rivers. 
+He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was desirous of having
+a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures they met with
+in that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall have
+something to relate hereafter.  
+
+Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping
+campaign without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the
+rendezvous at Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with
+him, and forty-six horses to take care of; with these he had to
+make his way over mountain and plain, through a marauding,
+horse-stealing region, full of peril for a numerous cavalcade so
+slightly manned. He addressed himself to his difficult journey,
+however, with his usual alacrity of spirit.  
+
+In the afternoon of his first day's journey, on drawing near to
+the Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to
+encamp for the night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of
+smoke rising from its base. He came to a halt, and watched it
+anxiously. It was very irregular; sometimes it would almost die
+away; and then would mount up in heavy volumes. There was,
+apparently, a large party encamped there; probably, some ruffian
+horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do for so small a
+number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture within
+sight of any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his
+companions, therefore, avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and,
+proceeding with extreme caution, reached the summit of the
+mountain, apparently without being discovered. Here they found a
+deserted Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced themselves;
+disposed of every thing as securely as possible, and passed the
+night without molestation. Early the next morning they descended
+the south side of the mountain into the great plain extending
+between it and the Littlehorn range. Here they soon came upon
+numerous footprints, and the carcasses of buffaloes; by which
+they knew there must be Indians not far off. Captain Bonneville
+now began to feel solicitude about the two small parties of
+trappers which he had detached, lest the Indians should have come
+upon them before they had united their forces. But he felt still
+more solicitude about his own party; for it was hardly to be
+expected he could traverse these naked plains undiscovered, when
+Indians were abroad; and should he be discovered, his chance
+would be a desperate one. Everything now depended upon the
+greatest circumspection. It was dangerous to discharge a gun, or
+light a fire, or make the least noise, where such quick-eared and
+quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the day they
+saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in
+great numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night
+they encamped with the greatest care; and threw up a strong
+breastwork for their protection.  
+
+For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but
+cautiously, across the great plain; fording the tributary streams
+of the Horn River; encamping one night among thickets; the next,
+on an island; meeting, repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and
+now and then, in passing through a defile, experiencing alarms
+that induced them to cock their rifles.  
+
+On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their
+caution, and they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being
+betrayed by the report. They did not halt to make a meal, but
+carried the meat on with them to the place of rendezvous, the
+Medicine Lodge, where they arrived safely, in the evening, and
+celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper.  
+
+The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a
+fortress of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the
+greatest caution. Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the
+fire makes no glare, and a moderate smoke cannot be perceived at
+any great distance. In the morning and the evening, when the wind
+is lulled, the smoke rises perpendicularly in a blue column, or
+floats in light clouds above the tree-tops, and can be discovered
+from afar.  
+
+In this way the little party remained for several days,
+cautiously encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two
+detachments they had been expecting, arrived together at the
+rendezvous. They, as usual, had their several tales of adventures
+to relate to the captain, which we will furnish to the reader in
+the next chapter.
+
+
+
+                              24. 
+   Adventures of the party of ten The Balaamite mule  A dead
+ point The mysterious elks A night attack  A retreat Travelling
+under an alarm A joyful meeting Adventures of the other party A
+decoy elk Retreat to an island A savage dance of triumph Arrival
+                         at Wind River
+
+THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order.
+These trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at
+the place where the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of
+the Bighorn Mountain, and having encamped, one of them mounted
+his mule and went out to set his trap in a neighboring stream. He
+had not proceeded far when his steed came to a full stop. The
+trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to every blow and kick the mule
+snorted and kicked up, but still refused to budge an inch. The
+rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of some cause for
+this demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian fort
+within gunshot distance, lowering through the twilight. In a
+twinkling he wheeled about; his mule now seemed as eager to get
+on as himself, and in a few moments brought him, clattering with
+his traps, among his comrades. He was jeered at for his alacrity
+in retreating; his report was treated as a false alarm; his
+brother trappers contented themselves with reconnoitring the fort
+at a distance, and pronounced that it was deserted. 
+
+As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain
+Bonneville on his men, was observed. The horses were brought in
+and tied, and a guard stationed over them. This done, the men
+wrapped themselves in their blankets, stretched themselves before
+the fire, and being fatigued with a long day's march, and gorged
+with a hearty supper, were soon in a profound sleep.  
+
+The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the
+sentinel stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and
+supped as heartily as any of his companions, and while they
+snored, he began to nod at his post. After a time, a low
+trampling noise reached his ear. He half opened his closing eyes,
+and beheld two or three elks moving about the lodges, picking,
+and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight of elk within
+the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but having
+had his supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to
+graze about unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze.  
+
+Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a
+struggle and tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet.
+The first move was to secure the horses. Some were gone; others
+were struggling, and kicking, and trembling, for there was a
+horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and firearms. Several
+trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded in driving in
+the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered still
+more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage,
+and camp furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight.
+The Indians, in the meantime, collected on a neighboring height,
+kept up the most horrible clamor, in hopes of striking a panic
+into the camp, or frightening off the horses. When the day
+dawned, the trappers attacked them briskly and drove them to some
+distance. A desultory fire was kept up for an hour, when the
+Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave up the contest and
+retired. They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet, who, while
+in search of the Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of Captain
+Bonneville on the Popo Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but
+had been completely baffled by his vigilance. They had then
+waylaid the present detachment, and were actually housed in
+perfect silence within their fort, when the mule of the trapper
+made such a dead point.  
+
+The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of
+hostility, mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and
+gesticulations of the most insulting kind.
+
+
+In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were
+killed. On preparing the morning's meal, however, a number of
+cups, knives, and other articles were missing, which had,
+doubtless, been carried off by the fictitious elk, during the
+slumber of the very sagacious sentinel.  
+As the Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers
+had intended to travel, the latter changed their route, and
+pushed forward rapidly through the "Bad Pass," nor halted until
+night; when, supposing themselves out of the reach of the enemy,
+they contented themselves with tying up their horses and posting
+a guard. They had scarce laid down to sleep, when a dog strayed
+into the camp with a small pack of moccasons tied upon his back;
+for dogs are made to carry burdens among the Indians. The
+sentinel, more knowing than he of the preceding night, awoke his
+companions and reported the circumstance. It was evident that
+Indians were at hand. All were instantly at work; a strong pen
+was soon constructed for the horses, after completing which, they
+resumed their slumbers with the composure of men long inured to
+dangers.  
+
+In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and
+various suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still
+hovering about them. Hurrying on by long marches, they at length
+fell upon a trail, which, with the experienced eye of veteran
+woodmen, they soon discovered to be that of the party of trappers
+detached by Captain Bonneville when on his march, and which they
+were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from various signs,
+that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the Indians.
+They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried them
+to the banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along
+its course, until they came to where it empties into the Horn
+River. Here, to their great joy, they discovered the comrades of
+whom they were in search, all strongly fortified, and in a state
+of great watchfulness and anxiety.  
+
+We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of
+trappers. These men, after parting with the main body under
+Captain Bonneville, had proceeded slowly for several days up the
+course of the river, trapping beaver as they went. One morning,
+as they were about to visit their traps, one of the camp-keepers
+pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a distance, and requested them
+to shoot it. Three of the trappers started off for the purpose.
+In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some savages in
+ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off his
+hide and his horn, started forth an Indian warrior.  
+
+One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley;
+the others fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever
+they could carry off, retreated to a small island in the river,
+and took refuge among the willows. Here they were soon joined by
+their comrade who had fallen, but who had merely been wounded in
+the neck.
+
+In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp,
+with all the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were
+busy among the spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at
+his work, came sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back.
+He had approached near by, when an Indian came forward and
+motioned him to keep away; at the same moment, he was perceived
+by his comrades on the island, and warned of his danger with loud
+cries. The poor fellow stood for a moment, bewildered and aghast,
+then dropping his traps, wheeled and made off at full speed,
+quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians rattled after
+him.  
+
+In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now
+formed a circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with
+the unlucky trappers for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened
+by what they considered cowardice on the part of the white men,
+they neglected their usual mode of bush-fighting, and advanced
+openly within twenty paces of the willows. A sharp volley from
+the trappers brought them to a sudden halt, and laid three of
+them breathless. The chief, who had stationed himself on an
+eminence to direct all the movements of his people, seeing three
+of his warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They
+immediately did so, and the whole band soon disappeared behind a
+point of woods, carrying off with them the horses, traps, and the
+greater part of the baggage.  
+
+It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men
+discovered this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which
+they had thrown up after their disaster. They were so perfectly
+dismayed, that they could not be induced even to go in quest of
+their traps, which they had set in a neighboring stream. The two
+parties now joined their forces, and made their way, without
+further misfortune, to the rendezvous.  
+
+Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties,
+as well as from what he had observed himself in his recent march,
+that he was in a neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering
+Snake Indians, also, who visited the camp, assured him that there
+were two large bands of Crows marching rapidly upon him. He broke
+up his encampment, therefore, on the 1st of September, made his
+way to the south, across the Littlehorn Mountain, until he
+reached Wind River, and then turning westward, moved slowly up
+the banks of that stream, giving time for his men to trap as he
+proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present hunting
+campaigns to go near the caches on Green River, and as the
+trappers were in want of traps to replace those they had lost,
+Captain Bonneville undertook to visit the caches, and procure a
+supply. To accompany him in this hazardous expedition, which
+would take him through the defiles of the Wind River Mountains,
+and up the Green River valley, he took but three men; the main
+party were to continue on trapping up toward the head of Wind
+River, near which he was to rejoin them, just about the place
+where that stream issues from the mountains. We shall accompany
+the captain on his adventurous errand.
+
+
+
+                              25. 
+ Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley  Journey up
+ the Popo Agie Buffaloes The staring white bears The smoke The
+                         warm springs  
+     Attempt to traverse the Wind River Mountains The Great
+Slope Mountain dells and chasms Crystal lakes Ascent of a snowy
+peak Sublime prospect  A panorama "Les dignes de pitie," or wild
+                      men of the mountains
+
+HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain
+Bonneville and his three companions proceeded across a gravelly
+plain, until they fell upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of
+which they held their course, nearly in a southerly direction.
+Here they came upon numerous droves of buffalo, and halted for
+the purpose of procuring a supply of beef. As the hunters were
+stealing cautiously to get within shot of the game, two small
+white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path, and,
+rising upon their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with
+a whimsically solemn gaze. The hunters remained motionless;
+whereupon the bears, having apparently satisfied their curiosity,
+lowered themselves upon all fours, and began to withdraw. The
+hunters now advanced, upon which the bears turned, rose again
+upon their haunches, and repeated their serio-comic examination.
+This was repeated several times, until the hunters, piqued at
+their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a discharge of their
+rifles. The bears made an awkward bound or two, as if wounded,
+and then walked off with great gravity, seeming to commune
+together, and every now and then turning to take another look at
+the hunters. It was well for the latter that the bears were but
+half grown, and had not yet acquired the ferocity of their kind.
+
+The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms;
+but the hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and,
+having secured the best of the meat, continued forward until some
+time after dark, when, encamping in a large thicket of willows,
+they made a great fire, roasted buffalo beef enough for half a
+score, disposed of the whole of it with keen relish and high
+glee, and then "turned in" for the night and slept soundly, like
+weary and well fed hunters.
+
+At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the
+river, passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of
+beautiful groves of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening,
+Captain Bonneville observed a smoke at a distance rising from
+among hills, directly in the route he was pursuing. Apprehensive
+of some hostile band, he concealed the horses in a thicket, and,
+accompanied by one of his men, crawled cautiously up a height,
+from which he could overlook the scene of danger. Here, with a
+spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding country, but not a
+lodge nor fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be discovered;
+in short, the smoke which had caused such alarm proved to be the
+vapor from several warm, or rather hot springs of considerable
+magnitude, pouring forth streams in every direction over a bottom
+of white clay. One of the springs was about twenty-five yards in
+diameter, and so deep that the water was of a bright green color.
+
+They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River
+Mountains, which lay between them and Green River valley. To
+coast round their southern points would be a wide circuit;
+whereas, could they force their way through them, they might
+proceed in a straight line. The mountains were lofty, with snowy
+peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped, however, that some
+practicable defile might be found. They attempted, accordingly,
+to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the branches of
+the Popo Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of
+stupendous crags and precipices that barred all progress.
+Retracing their steps, and falling back upon the river, they
+consulted where to make another attempt. They were too close
+beneath the mountains to scan them generally, but they now
+recollected having noticed, from the plain, a beautiful slope
+rising, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and apparently
+without any break, until it reached the snowy region. Seeking
+this gentle acclivity, they began to ascend it with alacrity,
+trusting to find at the top one of those elevated plains which
+prevail among the Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with
+coarse gravel, interspersed with plates of freestone. They
+attained the summit with some toil, but found, instead of a
+level, or rather undulating plain, that they were on the brink of
+a deep and precipitous ravine, from the bottom of which rose a
+second slope, similar to the one they had just ascended. Down
+into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged path,
+or rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second
+slope. They gained the summit only to find themselves on another
+ravine, and now perceived that this vast mountain, which had
+presented such a sloping and even side to the distant beholder on
+the plain, was shagged by frightful precipices, and seamed with
+longitudinal chasms, deep and dangerous.
+
+In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept
+soundly and sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of
+arduous climbing and scrambling only served to admit them into
+the heart of this mountainous and awful solitude; where
+difficulties increased as they proceeded. Sometimes they
+scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain stream,
+dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they availed
+themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep,
+which, however, often took them to the brinks of fearful
+precipices, or led to rugged defiles, impassable for their
+horses. At one place, they were obliged to slide their horses
+down the face of a rock, in which attempt some of the poor
+animals lost their footing, rolled to the bottom, and came near
+being dashed to pieces.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one
+of the elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of
+mountains. Here were two bright and beautiful little lakes, set
+like mirrors in the midst of stern and rocky heights, and
+surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly refreshing to the
+eye. These probably were among the sources of those mighty
+streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander
+hundreds of miles through the plains.
+
+In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers
+halted to repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the
+sweet and tender herbage. They had now ascended to a great height
+above the level of the plains, yet they beheld huge crags of
+granite piled one upon another, and beetling like battlements far
+above them. While two of the men remained in the camp with the
+horses, Captain Bonneville, accompanied by the other men [man],
+set out to climb a neighboring height, hoping to gain a
+commanding prospect, and discern some practicable route through
+this stupendous labyrinth. After much toil, he reached the summit
+of a lofty cliff, but it was only to behold gigantic peaks rising
+all around, and towering far into the snowy regions of the
+atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be the highest, he
+crossed a narrow intervening valley, and began to scale it. He
+soon found that he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the
+pride of man is never more obstinate than when climbing
+mountains. The ascent was so steep and rugged that he and his
+companion were frequently obliged to clamber on hands and knees,
+with their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently, exhausted
+with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they threw
+themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their
+parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats
+and hung them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded
+to scramble over these eternal snows. As they ascended still
+higher, there were cool breezes that refreshed and braced them,
+and springing with new ardor to their task, they at length
+attained the summit.
+
+Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for
+a time astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He
+stood, in fact, upon that dividing ridge which Indians regard as
+the crest of the world; and on each side of which, the landscape
+may be said to decline to the two cardinal oceans of the globe.
+Whichever way he turned his eye, it was confounded by the
+vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the Rocky Mountains
+seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn valleys;
+treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming
+torrents; while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost
+in an almost immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side
+into dim and hazy distance, like the expanse of a summer's sea.
+Whichever way he looked, he beheld vast plains glimmering with
+reflected sunshine; mighty streams wandering on their shining
+course toward either ocean, and snowy mountains, chain beyond
+chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted like clouds into
+the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed realized: he had
+attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior, after
+death, first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the
+happy hunting grounds spread out below him, brightening with the
+abodes of the free and generous spirits. The captain stood for a
+long while gazing upon this scene, lost in a crowd of vague and
+indefinite ideas and sensations. A long-drawn inspiration at
+length relieved him from this enthralment of the mind, and he
+began to analyze the parts of this vast panorama. A simple
+enumeration of a few of its features may give some idea of its
+collective grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the
+whole Wind River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered
+one immense mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs,
+and seamed with narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered
+with silver lakes and gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it
+were, of the mighty tributaries to the Atlantic and Pacific
+Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks, to the south, and far, far below
+the mountain range, the gentle river, called the Sweet Water, was
+seen pursuing its tranquil way through the rugged regions of the
+Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind River wandered
+through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current, they
+forced their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were
+lost to view. To the north were caught glimpses of the upper
+streams of the Yellowstone, that great tributary of the Missouri.
+In another direction were to be seen some of the sources of the
+Oregon, or Columbia, flowing to the northwest, past those
+towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and pouring down into the
+great lava plain; while, almost at the captain's feet, the Green
+River, or Colorado of the West, set forth on its wandering
+pilgrimage to the Gulf of California; at first a mere mountain
+torrent, dashing northward over a crag and precipice, in a
+succession of cascades, and tumbling into the plain where,
+expanding into an ample river, it circled away to the south, and
+after alternately shining out and disappearing in the mazes of
+the vast landscape, was finally lost in a horizon of mountains.
+The day was calm and cloudless, and the atmosphere so pure that
+objects were discernible at an astonishing distance. The whole of
+this immense area was inclosed by an outer range of shadowy
+peaks, some of them faintly marked on the horizon, which seemed
+to wall it in from the rest of the earth.
+
+It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments
+with him with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He
+gives it as his opinion that it is the loftiest point of the
+North American continent; but of this we have no satisfactory
+proof. It is certain that the Rocky Mountains are of an altitude
+vastly superior to what was formerly supposed. We rather incline
+to the opinion that the highest peak is further to the northward,
+and is the same measured by Mr. Thompson, surveyor to the
+Northwest Company; who, by the joint means of the barometer and
+trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be twenty-five
+thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only
+inferior to that of the Himalayas.
+
+For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him
+with wonder and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds,
+whirling about the snow-clad height, admonished him to descend.
+He soon regained the spot where he and his companions [companion]
+had thrown off their coats, which were now gladly resumed, and,
+retracing their course down the peak, they safely rejoined their
+companions on the border of the lake.
+
+Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of
+these mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party
+was out hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a
+lonely valley. Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff,
+whence he beheld three savages running across the valley below
+him. He fired his gun to call their attention, hoping to induce
+them to turn back. They only fled the faster, and disappeared
+among the rocks. The hunter returned and reported what he had
+seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that these belonged to
+a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit the highest
+and most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie
+language, and probably are offsets from that tribe, though they
+have peculiarities of their own, which distinguish them from all
+other Indians. They are miserably poor; own no horses, and are
+destitute of every convenience to be derived from an intercourse
+with the whites. Their weapons are bows and stone-pointed arrows,
+with which they hunt the deer, the elk, and the mountain sheep.
+They are to be found scattered about the countries of the
+Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and Blackfeet tribes; but their
+residences are always in lonely places, and the clefts of the
+rocks.
+
+Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and
+solitary valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their
+fires descried among the precipices, but they themselves are
+rarely met with, and still more rarely brought to a parley, so
+great is their shyness, and their dread of strangers.
+
+As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as
+they are inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects
+of warfare: should one of them, however, fall into the hands of a
+war party, he is sure to be made a sacrifice, for the sake of
+that savage trophy, a scalp, and that barbarous ceremony, a scalp
+dance. These forlorn beings, forming a mere link between human
+nature and the brute, have been looked down upon with pity and
+contempt by the creole trappers, who have given them the
+appellation of "les dignes de pitie," or "the objects of pity.";
+They appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the
+mountains.
+
+
+                              26. 
+                                
+     A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent  Alpine
+     scenery Cascades Beaver valleys Beavers at work Their
+   architecture Their modes of felling trees Mode of trapping
+ beaver Contests of skill  A beaver "up to trap" Arrival at the
+                       Green River caches
+
+THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while
+it had excited Captain Bonneville's enthusiasm, had satisfied him
+that it would be useless to force a passage westward, through
+multiplying barriers of cliffs and precipices. Turning his face
+eastward, therefore, he endeavored to regain the plains,
+intending to make the circuit round the southern point of the
+mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself from the heart of
+this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as to
+penetrate it. Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling
+stream, the commencement of some future river, he descended from
+rock to rock, and shelf to shelf, between stupendous cliffs and
+beetling crags that sprang up to the sky. Often he had to cross
+and recross the rushing torrent, as it wound foaming and roaring
+down its broken channel, or was walled by perpendicular
+precipices; and imminent was the hazard of breaking the legs of
+the horses in the clefts and fissures of slippery rocks. The
+whole scenery of this deep ravine was of Alpine wildness and
+sublimity. Sometimes the travellers passed beneath cascades which
+pitched from such lofty heights that the water fell into the
+stream like heavy rain. In other places, torrents came tumbling
+from crag to crag, dashing into foam and spray, and making
+tremendous din and uproar.
+
+On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got
+beyond the steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the
+deep and rugged ravine began occasionally to expand into small
+levels or valleys, and the stream to assume for short intervals a
+more peaceful character. Here, not merely the river itself, but
+every rivulet flowing into it, was dammed up by communities of
+industrious beavers, so as to inundate the neighborhood, and make
+continual swamps.
+
+During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain
+Bonneville left his companions, and strolled down the course of
+the stream to reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came
+to a beaver pond, and caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking
+inhabitants busily at work upon the dam. The curiosity of the
+captain was aroused, to behold the mode of operating of this
+far-famed architect; he moved forward, therefore, with the utmost
+caution, parting the branches of the water willows without making
+any noise, until having attained a position commanding a view of
+the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the ground, and
+watched the solitary workman. In a little while, three others
+appeared at the head of the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With
+these they proceeded directly to the barrier, which Captain
+Bonneville perceived was in need of repair. Having deposited
+their loads upon the broken part, they dived into the water, and
+shortly reappeared at the surface. Each now brought a quantity of
+mud, with which he would plaster the sticks and bushes just
+deposited. This kind of masonry was continued for some time,
+repeated supplies of wood and mud being brought, and treated in
+the same manner. This done, the industrious beavers indulged in a
+little recreation, chasing each other about the pond, dodging and
+whisking about on the surface, or diving to the bottom; and in
+their frolic, often slapping their tails on the water with a loud
+clacking sound. While they were thus amusing themselves, another
+of the fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on
+their sports for some time, without offering to join in them. He
+then climbed the bank close to where the captain was concealed,
+and, rearing himself on his hind quarters, in a sitting position,
+put his forepaws against a young pine tree, and began to cut the
+bark with his teeth. At times he would tear off a small piece,
+and holding it between his paws, and retaining his sedentary
+position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of a
+monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut
+down the tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was
+alarmed by the approach of Captain Bonneville's men, who, feeling
+anxious at the protracted absence of their leader, were coming in
+search of him. At the sound of their voices, all the beavers,
+busy as well as idle, dived at once beneath the surface, and were
+no more to be seen. Captain Bonneville regretted this
+interruption. He had heard much of the sagacity of the beaver in
+cutting down trees, in which, it is said, they manage to make
+them fall into the water, and in such a position and direction as
+may be most favorable for conveyance to the desired point. In the
+present instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it
+grew perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring
+the beaver could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if
+really capable of exercising a discretion in the matter. He was
+evidently engaged in "belting" the tree, and his first incision
+had been on the side nearest to the water.
+
+Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the
+alleged sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the
+animal has no other aim than to get the tree down, without any of
+the subtle calculation as to its mode or direction of falling.
+This attribute, he thinks, has been ascribed to them from the
+circumstance that most trees growing near water-courses, either
+lean bodily toward the stream, or stretch their largest limbs in
+that direction, to benefit by the space, the light, and the air
+to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks those trees
+which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or
+pond. He makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase,
+belts them with his teeth, and when they fall, they naturally
+take the direction in which their trunks or branches
+preponderate.
+
+"I have often," says Captain Bonneville, "seen trees measuring
+eighteen inches in diameter, at the places where they had been
+cut through by the beaver, but they lay in all directions, and
+often very inconveniently for the after purposes of the animal.
+In fact, so little ingenuity do they at times display in this
+particular, that at one of our camps on Snake River, a beaver was
+found with his head wedged into the cut which he had made, the
+tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until he died."
+
+Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by
+the beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for
+winter provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set
+out upon this business, and will often make long journeys before
+they are suited. Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest
+size and then cull the branches, the bark of which is most to
+their taste. These they cut into lengths of about three feet,
+convey them to the water, and float them to their lodges, where
+they are stored away for winter. They are studious of cleanliness
+and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts, will carry
+out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw
+them into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too,
+of their territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting
+a strange beaver to enter their premises, and often fighting with
+such virulence as almost to tear each other to pieces. In the
+spring, which is the breeding season, the male leaves the female
+at home, and sets off on a tour of pleasure, rambling often to a
+great distance, recreating himself in every clear and quiet
+expanse of water on his way, and climbing the banks occasionally
+to feast upon the tender sprouts of the young willows. As summer
+advances, he gives up his bachelor rambles, and bethinking
+himself of housekeeping duties, returns home to his mate and his
+new progeny, and marshals them all for the foraging expedition in
+quest of winter provisions.
+
+After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little
+animal as a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary
+conduct as the father of a family, we grieve to record the perils
+with which he is environed, and the snares set for him and his
+painstaking household.
+
+Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of
+eye to the experienced trapper in all that relates to his
+pursuit, that he can detect the slightest sign of beaver, however
+wild; and although the lodge may be concealed by close thickets
+and overhanging willows, he can generally, at a single glance,
+make an accurate guess at the number of its inmates. He now goes
+to work to set his trap; planting it upon the shore, in some
+chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of the water,
+and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A small
+twig is then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the
+"medicine," as the trappers term the peculiar bait which they
+employ. This end of the stick rises about four inches above the
+surface of the water, the other end is planted between the jaws
+of the trap. The beaver, possessing an acute sense of smell, is
+soon attracted by the odor of the bait. As he raises his nose
+toward it, his foot is caught in the trap. In his fright he
+throws a somerset into the deep water. The trap, being fastened
+to the pole, resists all his efforts to drag it to the shore; the
+chain by which it is fastened defies his teeth; he struggles for
+a time, and at length sinks to the bottom and is drowned.
+
+Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole,
+it is thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often
+gets fastened by the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if
+he gets to shore, he is entangled in the thickets of brook
+willows. In such cases, however, it costs the trapper diligent
+search, and sometimes a bout at swimming, before he finds his
+game.
+
+Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family
+are trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely
+shy, and can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the
+trapper's phrase for "taking the bait." In such case, the trapper
+gives up the use of the bait, and conceals his traps in the usual
+paths and crossing places of the household. The beaver now being
+completely "up to trap," approaches them cautiously, and springs
+them ingeniously with a stick. At other times, he turns the traps
+bottom upwards, by the same means, and occasionally even drags
+them to the barrier and conceals them in the mud. The trapper now
+gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering his traps,
+marches off, admitting that he is not yet "up to beaver."
+
+On the day following Captain Bonneville's supervision of the
+industrious and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has
+given so edifying an account, he succeeded in extricating himself
+from the Wind River Mountains, and regaining the plain to the
+eastward, made a great bend to the south, so as to go round the
+bases of the mountains, and arrived without further incident of
+importance, at the old place of rendezvous in Green River valley,
+on the 17th of September.
+
+He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous
+goods and equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from
+them the necessary supplies, he closed them again; taking care to
+obliterate all traces that might betray them to the keen eyes of
+Indian marauders.
+
+
+
+                              27. 
+                                
+   Route toward Wind River Dangerous neighborhood  Alarms and
+     precautions A sham encampment  Apparition of an Indian
+       spy Midnight move A mountain defile The Wind River
+valley Tracking a party Deserted camps Symptoms of Crows  Meeting
+  of comrades A trapper entrapped Crow pleasantry Crow spies A
+      decampment Return to Green River valley Meeting with
+ Fitzpatrick's party Their adventures among the Crows Orthodox
+                             Crows
+
+ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three
+companions set out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party,
+from which they had parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the
+Green River valley, with that stream on their right hand, and
+beyond it, the range of Wind River Mountains. At the head of the
+valley, they were to pass through a defile which would bring them
+out beyond the northern end of these mountains, to the head of
+Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party, according
+to arrangement.
+
+We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this
+neighborhood, infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to
+whom the numerous defiles and passes of the country afford
+capital places for ambush and surprise. The travellers,
+therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything that might give
+intimation of lurking danger.
+
+About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a
+hill, they discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in
+every direction. One of the men, too, fancied he heard the report
+of a gun. It was concluded, therefore, that there was some party
+of Indians below, hunting the buffalo.
+
+The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the
+captain, mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view,
+reconnoitred the whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an
+Indian was to be seen; so, after halting about an hour, he
+resumed his journey. Convinced, however, that he was in a
+dangerous neighborhood, he advanced with the utmost caution;
+winding his way through hollows and ravines, and avoiding, as
+much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground, that might
+betray his little party to the watchful eye of an Indian scout.
+
+Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land
+bordering on the river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as
+he could see, scampering in great alarm. Once more concealing the
+horses, he and his companions remained for a long time watching
+the various groups of the animals, as each caught the panic and
+started off; but they sought in vain to discover the cause.
+
+They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of
+Green River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked;
+they, therefore, arranged the packs on their horses, in the
+manner most secure and convenient for sudden flight, should such
+be necessary. This done, they again set forward, keeping the most
+anxious look-out in every direction.
+
+It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of
+encamping for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain
+Bonneville, therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a
+fire, as if for encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as
+it was sufficiently dark, to make a rapid move for the summit of
+the mountain, and seek some secluded spot for their night's
+lodgings.
+
+Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a
+halt, made a large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden
+sticks, and, when sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands
+before them; cutting off huge slices with their hunting knives,
+and supping with a hunter's appetite. The light of their fire
+would not fail, as they knew, to attract the attention of any
+Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they trusted to be off and
+away, before any prowlers could reach the place. While they were
+supping thus hastily, however, one of their party suddenly
+started up and shouted "Indians! " All were instantly on their
+feet, with their rifles in their hands; but could see no enemy.
+The man, however, declared that he had seen an Indian advancing,
+cautiously, along the trail which they had made in coming to the
+encampment; who, the moment he was perceived, had thrown himself
+on the ground, and disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville
+instantly to decamp. The captain, however, took the matter more
+coolly. The single fact, that the Indian had endeavored to hide
+himself, convinced him that he was not one of a party, on the
+advance to make an attack. He was, probably, some scout, who had
+followed up their trail, until he came in sight of their fire. He
+would, in such case, return, and report what he had seen to his
+companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped for the
+night, would keep aloof until very late, when all should be
+asleep. They would, then, according to Indian tactics, make their
+stealthy approaches, and place themselves in ambush around,
+preparatory to their attack, at the usual hour of daylight.
+
+Such was Captain Bonneville's conclusion; in consequence of
+which, he counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as
+if free from all alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move.
+They, accordingly, continued their repast with pretended appetite
+and jollity; and then trimmed and replenished their fire, as if
+for a bivouac. As soon, however, as the night had completely set
+in, they left their fire blazing; walked quietly among the
+willows, and then leaping into their saddles, made off as
+noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left the point of
+danger behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious
+taciturnity, and began to joke at the expense of their enemy;
+whom they pictured to themselves mousing in the neighborhood of
+their deserted fire, waiting for the proper time of attack, and
+preparing for a grand disappointment.
+
+About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure
+distance, they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case
+the enemy should follow on their trail, and then, turning
+abruptly into a dense and matted thicket of willows, halted for
+the night at the foot of the mountain, instead of making for the
+summit, as they had originally intended.
+
+A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches
+morsels of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly
+when surrounded by danger. The little party now made their
+arrangements for sleep with perfect calmness; they did not
+venture to make a fire and cook, it is true, though generally
+done by hunters whenever they come to a halt, and have
+provisions. They comforted themselves, however, by smoking a
+tranquil pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning loose
+the horses, stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that
+whoever should first awake, should rouse the rest, and in a
+little while were all as sound asleep as though in the midst of a
+fortress.
+
+A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour
+for Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post
+himself at a little distance on their trail, and give the alarm,
+should he see or hear an enemy.
+
+With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought
+them to the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise;
+when, the sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang
+once more into their saddles, and pursued the most covert and
+secret paths up the mountain, avoiding the direct route.
+
+At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their
+course so as to regain the route from which they had diverged.
+They were now made sensible of the danger from which they had
+just escaped. There were tracks of Indians, who had evidently
+been in pursuit of them; but had recently returned, baffled in
+their search.
+
+Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be
+overtaken before night, even in case the Indians should renew the
+chase, they pushed briskly forward, and did not encamp until
+late; when they cautiously concealed themselves in a secure nook
+of the mountains.
+
+Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters
+of Wind River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had
+appointed the rendezvous with their companions. It was within the
+precincts of the Crow country; the Wind River valley being one of
+the favorite haunts of that restless tribe. After much searching,
+Captain Bonneville came upon a trail which had evidently been
+made by his main party. It was so old, however, that he feared
+his people might have left the neighborhood; driven off, perhaps
+by some of those war parties which were on the prowl. He
+continued his search with great anxiety, and no little fatigue;
+for his horses were jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced
+marches and scramblings through rocky defiles.
+
+On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a
+deserted camp of his people, from which they had, evidently,
+turned back; but he could find no signs to indicate why they had
+done so; whether they had met with misfortune, or molestation, or
+in what direction they had gone. He was now, more than ever,
+perplexed.
+
+On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing
+anxiety. The feet of his horses had by this time become so worn
+and wounded by the rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them
+of buffalo hide. About noon, he came to another deserted camp of
+his men; but soon after lost their trail. After great search, he
+once more found it, turning in a southerly direction along the
+eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains, which towered to the
+right. He now pushed forward with all possible speed, in hopes of
+overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another of their
+camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day
+dawned sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the
+danger that must be dogging the heels of his main party. All
+about the camp were traces of Indians who must have been prowling
+about it at the time his people had passed the night there; and
+who must still be hovering about them. Convinced, now, that the
+main party could not be at any great distance, he mounted a scout
+on the best horse, and sent him forward to overtake them, to warn
+them of their danger, and to order them to halt, until he should
+rejoin them.
+
+In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning,
+with six comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for
+his accommodation; and on the following day (September 25th), all
+hands were once more reunited, after a separation of nearly three
+weeks. Their meeting was hearty and joyous; for they had both
+experienced dangers and perplexities.
+
+The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River
+valley, had been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In
+one place, they had been fired upon, but without injury; in
+another place, one of their horses had been cut loose, and
+carried off. At length, they were so closely beset, that they
+were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest they should be
+surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had caused
+such perplexity to Captain Bonneville.
+
+The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to
+give repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers,
+however, pursued their vocations about the neighboring streams.
+While one of them was setting his traps, he heard the tramp of
+horses, and looking up, beheld a party of Crow braves moving
+along at no great distance, with a considerable cavalcade. The
+trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was discerned by the
+quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells, they dragged him
+from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their tomahawks
+and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave
+himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose,
+rather than a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily,
+for a while, at the expense of his terrors; and after having
+played off divers Crow pranks and pleasantries, suffered him to
+depart unharmed. It is true, they stripped him completely, one
+taking his horse, another his gun, a third his traps, a fourth
+his blanket, and so on, through all his accoutrements, and even
+his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then they generously
+made him a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and dismissed
+him, with many complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When
+the trapper returned to the camp, in such sorry plight, he was
+greeted with peals of laughter from his comrades and seemed more
+mortified by the style in which he had been dismissed, than
+rejoiced at escaping with his life. A circumstance which he
+related to Captain Bonneville, gave some insight into the cause
+of this extreme jocularity on the part of the Crows. They had
+evidently had a run of luck, and, like winning gamblers, were in
+high good humor. Among twenty-six fine horses, and some mules,
+which composed their cavalcade, the trapper recognized a number
+which had belonged to Fitzpatrick's brigade, when they parted
+company on the Bighorn. It was supposed, therefore, that these
+vagabonds had been on his trail, and robbed him of part of his
+cavalry.
+
+On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain
+Bonneville's camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent
+air imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and
+unconcern, in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they
+had not been of the set which stripped the trapper, though
+evidently of the same band, they were not molested. Indeed,
+Captain Bonneville treated them with his usual kindness and
+hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the camp, and
+even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he
+caused a strict watch to be maintained on all their movements;
+and at night, stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows
+remonstrated against the latter being armed. This only made the
+captain suspect them to be spies, who meditated treachery; he
+redoubled, therefore, his precautions. At the same time, he
+assured his guests, that while they were perfectly welcome to the
+shelter and comfort of his camp, yet, should any of their tribe
+venture to approach during the night, they would certainly be
+shot; which would be a very unfortunate circumstance, and much to
+be deplored. To the latter remark, they fully assented; and
+shortly afterward commenced a wild song, or chant, which they
+kept up for a long time, and in which they very probably gave
+their friends, who might be prowling round the camp, notice that
+the white men were on the alert. The night passed away without
+disturbance. In the morning, the three Crow guests were very
+pressing that Captain Bonneville and his party should accompany
+them to their camp, which they said was close by. Instead of
+accepting their invitation, Captain Bonneville took his departure
+with all possible dispatch, eager to be out of the vicinity of
+such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the diligence of his
+march, until, on the second day, he reached the banks of the
+Sweet Water, beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy
+fall of snow had obliterated all traces of his course.
+
+He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round
+the point of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once
+more at the caches, on the 14th of October.
+
+Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them
+in the defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost
+all trace of them on their way over the mountains, they had
+turned and followed back their trail down the Green River valley
+to the caches. One of these they had discovered and broken open,
+but it fortunately contained nothing but fragments of old iron,
+which they had scattered about in all directions, and then
+departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville
+discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more
+reason than ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the
+clutches of such a formidable band of freebooters.
+
+He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains,
+and on the 25th of October reached Liberge's Ford, a tributary of
+the Colorado, where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same
+war party, which had crossed the stream so recently that the
+banks were yet wet with the water that had been splashed upon
+them. To judge from their tracks, they could not be less than
+three hundred warriors, and apparently of the Crow nation.
+
+Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering
+force should come upon him in some place where he would not have
+the means of fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward
+Hane's Fork, another tributary of the Colorado, where he
+encamped, and remained during the 26th of October. Seeing a large
+cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed it to arise from some
+encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to procure information,
+and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band of Shoshonies,
+but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party of
+trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of
+his fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with
+Captain Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the
+west, to trap upon Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between
+twenty and thirty men with him, and about one hundred horses. So
+large a cavalcade could not pass through the Crow country without
+attracting the attention of its freebooting hordes. A large band
+of Crows was soon on their traces, and came up with them on the
+5th of September, just as they had reached Tongue River. The Crow
+chief came forward with great appearance of friendship, and
+proposed to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp together. The
+latter, however, not having any faith in Crows, declined the
+invitation, and pitched his camp three miles off. He then rode
+over with two or three men, to visit the Crow chief, by whom he
+was received with great apparent cordiality. In the meantime,
+however, a party of young braves, who considered them absolved by
+his distrust from all scruples of honor, made a circuit
+privately, and dashed into his encampment. Captain Stewart, who
+had remained there in the absence of Fitzpatrick, behaved with
+great spirit; but the Crows were too numerous and active. They
+had got possession of the camp, and soon made booty of every
+thing --carrying off all the horses. On their way back they met
+Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by
+rifling and nearly stripping him.
+
+A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and
+the triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick
+made use of, we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon
+the Crow chieftain to return him his horses and many of his
+traps; together with his rifles and a few rounds of ammunition
+for each man. He then set out with all speed to abandon the Crow
+country, before he should meet with any fresh disasters.
+
+After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox
+Crows pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to
+escape out of their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma
+on the reputation of the Crow nation, they followed on his trial,
+nor quit hovering about him on his march until they had stolen a
+number of his best horses and mules. It was, doubtless, this same
+band which came upon the lonely trapper on the Popo Agie, and
+generously gave him an old buffalo robe in exchange for his
+rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these
+anecdotes, we shall, for  present, take our leave of the Crow
+country and its vagabond chivalry.
+
+
+
+                              28. 
+  A region of natural curiosities The plain of white clay Hot
+springs The Beer Spring Departure to seek the free trappers Plain
+of Portneuf Lava  Chasms and gullies Bannack Indians Their hunt
+ of the buffalo Hunter's feast Trencher heroes  Bullying of an
+    absent foe The damp comrade The Indian spy Meeting with
+    Hodgkiss His adventures Poordevil Indians Triumph of the
+               Bannacks Blackfeet policy in war 
+
+CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear
+River, which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt
+Lake, describes the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal
+head waters of this river, although supposed to abound with
+beaver, has never been visited by the trapper; rising among
+rugged mountains, and being barricadoed [sic] by fallen pine
+trees and tremendous precipices.
+
+Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of
+November, at the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and
+from two to three miles in width, completely imbedded in low
+ranges of mountains, and connected with Bear River by an
+impassable swamp. It is called the Little Lake, to distinguish it
+from the great one of salt water.
+
+On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in
+the neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. 
+An area of about half a mile square presents a level surface of
+white clay or fuller's earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a
+great slab of Parian marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The
+effect is strikingly beautiful at all times: in summer, when it
+is surrounded with verdure, or in autumn, when it contrasts its
+bright immaculate surface with the withered herbage. Seen from a
+distant eminence, it then shines like a mirror, set in the brown
+landscape. Around this plain are clustered numerous springs of
+various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of scalding heat,
+boils furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of two or
+three feet. In another place, there is an aperture in the earth,
+from which rushes a column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud.
+The ground for some distance around sounds hollow, and startles
+the solitary trapper, as he hears the tramp of his horse giving
+the sound of a muffled drum. He pictures to himself a mysterious
+gulf below, a place of hidden fires, and gazes round him with awe
+and uneasiness.
+
+The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is
+the Beer Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They
+are said to turn aside from their route through the country to
+drink of its waters, with as much eagerness as the Arab seeks
+some famous well of the desert. Captain Bonneville describes it
+as having the taste of beer. His men drank it with avidity, and
+in copious draughts. It did not appear to him to possess any
+medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects. The
+Indians, however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade
+the white men from doing so.
+
+We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as
+containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the
+properties of the Ballston water.
+
+The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of
+the party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July,
+under the command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters
+of Salmon River. His intention was to unite them with the party
+with which he was at present travelling, that all might go into
+quarters together for the winter. Accordingly, on the 11th of
+November, he took a temporary leave of his band, appointing a
+rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by three men, set out
+upon his journey. His route lay across the plain of the Portneuf,
+a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an unfortunate
+Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country
+through which he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and
+conflagrations in the olden time. Great masses of lava lay
+scattered about in every direction; the crags and cliffs had
+apparently been under the action of fire; the rocks in some
+places seemed to have been in a state of fusion; the plain was
+rent and split with deep chasms and gullies, some of which were
+partly filled with lava.
+
+They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of
+horsemen, galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned,
+and made full speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify
+themselves among the trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one
+of them came forward alone. He reached Captain Bonneville and his
+men just as they were dismounting and about to post themselves. A
+few words dispelled all uneasiness. It was a party of twenty-five
+Bannack Indians, friendly to the whites, and they proposed,
+through their envoy, that both parties should encamp together,
+and hunt the buffalo, of which they had discovered several large
+herds hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully assented to their
+proposition, being curious to see their manner of hunting.
+
+Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot,
+and prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a
+small hill near the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The
+"runners," then, as they are called, mounted on fleet horses, and
+armed with bows and arrows, moved slowly and cautiously toward
+the buffalo, keeping as much as possible out of sight, in hollows
+and ravines. When within a proper distance, a signal was given,
+and they all opened at once like a pack of hounds, with a full
+chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the herds, and
+launching their arrows to the right and left. The plain seemed
+absolutely to shake under the tramp of the buffalo, as they
+scoured off. The cows in headlong panic, the bulls furious with
+rage, uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning with a
+desperate rush upon their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the
+spirit, grace, and dexterity, with which the Indians managed
+their horses; wheeling and coursing among the affrighted herd,
+and launching their arrows with unerring aim. In the midst of the
+apparent confusion, they selected their victims with perfect
+judgment, generally aiming at the fattest of the cows, the flesh
+of the bull being nearly worthless, at this season of the year.
+In a few minutes, each of the hunters had crippled three or four
+cows. A single shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the
+animal, once maimed, was left to be completely dispatched at the
+end of the chase. Frequently, a cow was killed on the spot by a
+single arrow. In one instance, Captain Bonneville saw an Indian
+shoot his arrow completely through the body of a cow, so that it
+struck in the ground beyond. The bulls, however, are not so
+easily killed as the cows, and always cost the hunter several
+arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and chasing them
+furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still sticking
+in their flesh.
+
+The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded
+to dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up
+the carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp,
+where the choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires,
+and a hunters' feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and
+his men were qualified, by previous fasting, to perform their
+parts with great vigor.
+
+Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such
+seemed to be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion
+as they crammed themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of
+heart, until, the supper at an end, they began to chant war
+songs, setting forth their mighty deeds, and the victories they
+had gained over the Blackfeet. Warming with the theme, and
+inflating themselves with their own eulogies, these magnanimous
+heroes of the trencher would start up, advance a short distance
+beyond the light of the fire, and apostrophize most vehemently
+their Blackfeet enemies, as though they had been within hearing.
+Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting, and slapping their breasts,
+and brandishing their arms, they would vociferate all their
+exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had drenched their
+towns in tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had inflicted,
+the warriors they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in
+triumph. Then, having said everything that could stir a man's
+spleen or pique his valor, they would dare their imaginary
+hearers, now that the Bannacks were few in number, to come and
+take their revenge--receiving no reply to this valorous bravado,
+they would conclude by all kinds of sneers and insults, deriding
+the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons, that dared not accept
+their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and rhodomontade
+in which the "red men" are prone to indulge in their vainglorious
+moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are
+vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their
+exploits, and to sound their own trumpet.
+
+Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the
+Bannack braves gradually calmed down, lowered their crests,
+smoothed their ruffled feathers, and betook themselves to sleep,
+without placing a single guard over their camp; so that, had the
+Blackfeet taken them at their word, but few of these braggart
+heroes might have survived for any further boasting.
+
+On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply
+of buffalo meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their
+vaporing, were in fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of
+firearms, and of almost everything that constitutes riches in
+savage life. The bargain concluded, the Bannacks set off for
+their village, which was situated, they said, at the mouth of the
+Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his companions shaped their
+course toward Snake River.
+
+Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and
+boisterous, but not too deep to be forded. In traversing it,
+however, one of the horses was swept suddenly from his footing,
+and his rider was flung from the saddle into the midst of the
+stream. Both horse and horseman were extricated without any
+damage, excepting that the latter was completely drenched, so
+that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While they
+were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived an
+Indian scout cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a
+neighboring hill. The moment he found himself discovered, he
+disappeared behind the hill. From his furtive movements, Captain
+Bonneville suspected him to be a scout from the Blackfeet camp,
+and that he had gone to report what he had seen to his
+companions. It would not do to loiter in such a neighborhood, so
+the kindling of the fire was abandoned, the drenched horseman
+mounted in dripping condition, and the little band pushed forward
+directly into the plain, going at a smart pace, until they had
+gained a considerable distance from the place of supposed danger.
+Here encamping for the night, in the midst of abundance of sage,
+or wormwood, which afforded fodder for their horses, they kindled
+a huge fire for the benefit of their damp comrade, and then
+proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps and
+ribs, and other choice bits, which they had brought with them.
+After a hearty repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city
+epicures, they stretched themselves upon their couches of skins,
+and under the starry canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and
+sweet sleep of hardy and well-fed mountaineers.
+
+They continued on their journey for several days, without any
+incident worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon
+traces of the party of which they were in search; such as burned
+patches of prairie, and deserted camping grounds. All these were
+carefully examined, to discover by their freshness or antiquity
+the probable time that the trappers had left them; at length,
+after much wandering and investigating, they came upon the
+regular trail of the hunting party, which led into the mountains,
+and following it up briskly, came about two o'clock in the
+afternoon of the 20th, upon the encampment of Hodgkiss and his
+band of free trappers, in the bosom of a mountain valley.
+
+It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters
+of themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany
+Captain Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of
+July, preferring to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon
+River, where they expected to find plenty of beaver, and a less
+dangerous neighborhood. Their hunt had not been very successful.
+They had penetrated the great range of mountains among which some
+of the upper branches of Salmon River take their rise, but had
+become so entangled among immense and almost impassable
+barricades of fallen pines, and so impeded by tremendous
+precipices, that a great part of their season had been wasted
+among these mountains. At one time, they had made their way
+through them, and reached the Boisee River; but meeting with a
+band of Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended hostilities,
+they had again taken shelter among the mountains, where they were
+found by Captain Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their
+encampment, the captain had the good fortune to meet with a
+family of those wanderers of the mountains, emphatically called
+"les dignes de pitie," or Poordevil Indians. These, however,
+appear to have forfeited the title, for they had with them a fine
+lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep. These,
+Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and
+sent them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt
+objects of envy to all their pitiful tribe.
+
+Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers,
+Captain Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties,
+and set out to rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer
+Spring, that they might all go into winter quarters on Snake
+River. On his route, he encountered many heavy falls of snow,
+which melted almost immediately, so as not to impede his march,
+and on the 4th of December, he found his other party, encamped at
+the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt with the
+Bannacks.
+
+That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and
+were just then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering
+than ever, celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a
+party of their braves being out on a hunting excursion,
+discovered a band of Blackfeet moving, as they thought, to
+surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks immediately posted
+themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through which the enemy
+must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst of it,
+attacked them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden
+panic, threw off their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of
+their warriors dead on the spot. The victors eagerly gathered up
+the spoils; but their greatest prize was the scalp of the
+Blackfoot brave. This they bore off in triumph to their village,
+where it had ever since been an object of the greatest exultation
+and rejoicing. It had been elevated upon a pole in the centre of
+the village, where the warriors had celebrated the scalp dance
+round it, with war feasts, war songs, and warlike harangues. It
+had then been given up to the women and boys; who had paraded it
+up and down the village with shouts and chants and antic dances;
+occasionally saluting it with all kinds of taunts, invectives,
+and revilings.
+
+The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to
+the character which has rendered them objects of such terror.
+Indeed, their conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is
+full of inconsistencies; at one time they are headlong in
+courage, and heedless of danger; at another time cautious almost
+to cowardice. To understand these apparent incongruities, one
+must know their principles of warfare. A war party, however
+triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight, bring back a
+cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over the
+glory of their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less
+fierce and reckless in general battle, than he is in a private
+brawl; and the chiefs are checked in their boldest undertakings
+by the fear of sacrificing their warriors.
+
+This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the
+Osages, says Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle,
+his comrades, though they may have fought with consummate valor,
+and won a glorious victory, will leave their arms upon the field
+of battle, and returning home with dejected countenances, will
+halt without the encampment, and wait until the relatives of the
+slain come forth and invite them to mingle again with their
+people.
+
+
+
+                              29. 
+                                
+      Winter camp at the Portneuf Fine springs The Bannack
+    Indians Their honesty Captain Bonneville prepares for an
+  expedition Christmas The American Falls Wild scenery Fishing
+  Falls Snake Indians Scenery on the Bruneau View of volcanic
+   country from a mountain Powder River  Shoshokoes, or Root
+Diggers Their character, habits, habitations, dogs Vanity at its
+                          last shift 
+
+IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portnenf, Captain
+Bonneville had drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack
+friends, to avoid all annoyance from their intimacy or
+intrusions. In so doing, however, he had been obliged to take up
+his quarters on the extreme edge of the flat land, where he was
+encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing better for his
+horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the
+contrary, were encamped among fine springs of water, where there
+was grass in abundance. Some of these springs gush out of the
+earth in sufficient quantity to turn a mill; and furnish
+beautiful streams, clear as crystal, and full of trout of a large
+size, which may be seen darting about the transparent water.
+
+Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and
+in large quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot;
+and the continued coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
+
+By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the
+Indians and the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual
+confidence and good will. A few presents convinced the chiefs
+that the white men were their friends; nor were the white men
+wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith of their savage
+neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and the want of fodder
+obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam in quest of
+sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the
+Bannacks, they were immediately brought back. It must be
+confessed, however, that if the stray horse happened, by any
+chance, to be in vigorous plight and good condition, though he
+was equally sure to be returned by the honest Bannacks, yet it
+was always after the lapse of several days, and in a very gaunt
+and jaded state; and always with the remark that they had found
+him a long way off. The uncharitable were apt to surmise that he
+had, in the interim, been well used up in a buffalo hunt; but
+those accustomed to Indian morality in the matter of horseflesh,
+considered it a singular evidence of honesty that he should be
+brought back at all.
+
+Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances,
+that his people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as
+honest as they were valiant, and satisfied that they would pass
+their winter unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared for a
+reconnoitring expedition of great extent and peril. This was, to
+penetrate to the Hudson's Bay establishments on the banks of the
+Columbia, and to make himself acquainted with the country and the
+Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a
+trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to
+participate in the trade lost to the United States by the capture
+of Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him through
+the Snake River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the
+scenes of so much hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and
+their Astorian bands, who first explored it, and he would have to
+pass through it in the same frightful season, the depth of
+winter.
+
+The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate
+the adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions
+for his journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most
+portable form, and selected five horses and mules for themselves
+and their baggage. He proposed to rejoin his band in the early
+part of March, at the winter encampment near the Portneuf. All
+these arrangements being completed, he mounted his horse on
+Christmas morning, and set off with his three comrades. They
+halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their Christmas
+dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, after
+which they resumed their journey.
+
+They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for
+the snow had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though
+somewhat packed and frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm
+footing. Their route lay to the west, down along the left side of
+Snake River; and they were several days in reaching the first, or
+American Falls. The banks of the river, for a considerable
+distance, both above and below the falls, have a volcanic
+character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another;
+the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling
+through narrow channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over
+ridges of basaltic columns.
+
+Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but
+inconsiderable stream, called the Cassie. It runs through a level
+valley, about four miles wide, where the soil is good; but the
+prevalent coldness and dryness of the climate is unfavorable to
+vegetation. Near to this stream there is a small mountain of mica
+slate, including garnets. Granite, in small blocks, is likewise
+seen in this neighborhood, and white sandstone. From this river,
+the travellers had a prospect of the snowy heights of the Salmon
+River Mountains to the north; the nearest, at least fifty miles
+distant.
+
+In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally
+kept several miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its
+tributary streams; though he often found the open country so
+encumbered by volcanic rocks, as to render travelling extremely
+difficult. Whenever he approached Snake River, he found it
+running through a broad chasm, with steep, perpendicular sides of
+basaltic rock. After several days' travel across a level plain,
+he came to a part of the river which filled him with astonishment
+and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the river was
+walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet
+high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and
+fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the
+boiling and whirling current. Just above, the whole stream
+pitched in one cascade above forty feet in height, with a
+thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in the
+air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing
+Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They
+cannot get by these falls.
+
+After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at
+sunrise, descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or
+rather crevice, in the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered
+the river; this being the only mode, for many miles, of getting
+to the margin of the stream.
+
+The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so
+that their travelling was much more easy than it had been
+hitherto. There were foot tracks, also, made by the natives,
+which greatly facilitated their progress. Occasionally, they met
+the inhabitants of this wild region; a timid race, and but
+scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their dress
+consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of
+rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders,
+in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons
+were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which
+abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like
+haystacks, and constructed of branches of willow covered with
+long grass, so as to be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they
+were surrounded by small inclosures of wormwood, about three feet
+high, which gave them a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of
+these tenements were occasionally grouped together in some wild
+and striking situation, and had a picturesque effect. Sometimes
+they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet. From these
+people, Captain Bonneville's party frequently purchased salmon,
+dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This
+seemed to be their prime article of food; but they were extremely
+anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange.
+
+The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so
+long inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which
+they were enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off
+considerable bends of the river.
+
+Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the
+scenery of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic
+character. The rocks present every variety of masses and
+grouping. Numerous small streams come rushing and boiling through
+narrow clefts and ravines: one of a considerable size issued from
+the face of a precipice, within twenty-five feet of its summit;
+and after running in nearly a horizontal line for about one
+hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky bank
+of the river.
+
+In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River
+is upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring
+water. Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless
+course; at other times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a
+thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the
+ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters.
+
+Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the
+wildness and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the
+Bruneau; is particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous
+chasm, rather than a valley, extending upwards of a hundred and
+fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in traversing a level
+plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across from cliff
+to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so that
+the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks
+rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the
+plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The
+current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the
+borders of this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet
+above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends
+up a cloud of vapor.
+
+We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of
+mountains and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth,
+which lies before us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we
+are describing. From this summit, the country, he says, appears
+an indescribable chaos; the tops of the hills exhibit the same
+strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to have once
+formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by
+the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills.
+Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and
+brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them.
+All these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers.
+Many of the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either
+absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the
+lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms.
+
+On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder
+River; much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the
+Portneuf. He struck it about three miles above its entrance into
+Snake River. Here he found himself above the lower narrows and
+defiles of the latter river, and in an open and level country.
+The natives now made their appearance in considerable numbers,
+and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting the white
+men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the
+bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the
+strangers, and watching every movement. These are of that branch
+of the great Snake tribe called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from
+their subsisting, in a great measure, on the roots of the earth;
+though they likewise take fish in great quantities, and hunt, in
+a small way. They are, in general, very poor; destitute of most
+of the comforts of life, and extremely indolent: but a mild,
+inoffensive race. They differ, in many respects, from the other
+branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; who possess horses,
+are more roving and adventurous, and hunt the buffalo.
+
+On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth
+of Powder River, he discovered at least a hundred families of
+these Diggers, as they are familiarly called, assembled in one
+place. The women and children kept at a distance, perched among
+the rocks and cliffs; their eager curiosity being somewhat dashed
+with fear. From their elevated posts, they scrutinized the
+strangers with the most intense earnestness; regarding them with
+almost as much awe as if they had been beings of a supernatural
+order.
+
+The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but
+importuned Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by
+their curiosity. Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they
+could lay their hands on underwent the most minute examination.
+To get rid of such inquisitive neighbors, the travellers kept on
+for a considerable distance, before they encamped for the night.
+
+The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing
+very little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or
+wormwood. The plains were diversified by isolated hills, all cut
+off, as it were, about the same height, so as to have tabular
+summits. In this they resembled the isolated hills of the great
+prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains; especially those found on
+the plains of the Arkansas.
+
+The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of
+Snake River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the
+ordinary height. It should be observed, that the great valleys or
+plains, through which the Snake River wound its course, were
+generally of great breadth, extending on each side from thirty to
+forty miles; where the view was bounded by unbroken ridges of
+mountains.
+
+The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of
+Powder River, though the weather continued intensely cold. They
+learned a lesson, however, from their forlorn friends, the Root
+Diggers, which they subsequently found of great service in their
+wintry wanderings. They frequently observed them to be furnished
+with long ropes, twisted from the bark of the wormwood. This they
+used as a slow match, carrying it always lighted. Whenever they
+wished to warm themselves, they would gather together a little
+dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an instant produce a
+cheering blaze.
+
+Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of
+these Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder
+River. "They live," says he, "without any further protection from
+the inclemency of the season, than a sort of break-weather, about
+three feet high, composed of sage (or wormwood), and erected
+around them in the shape of a half moon." Whenever he met with
+them, however, they had always a large suite of half-starved
+dogs: for these animals, in savage as well as in civilized life,
+seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
+
+These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary
+curs of cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the
+small game of the neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs;
+in which mongrel kind of chase they acquitted themselves with
+some credit.
+
+Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in
+entrapping the antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The
+process by which this is effected is somewhat singular. When the
+snow has disappeared, says Captain Bonneville, and the ground
+become soft, the women go into the thickest fields of wormwood,
+and pulling it up in great quantities, construct with it a hedge,
+about three feet high, inclosing about a hundred acres. A single
+opening is left for the admission of the game. This done, the
+women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait patiently
+for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
+spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in,
+the women give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part.
+But one of them enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the
+terrified animals round the inclosure, is relieved by one of his
+companions. In this way the hunters take their turns, relieving
+each other, and keeping up a continued pursuit by relays, without
+fatigue to themselves. The poor antelopes, in the end, are so
+wearied down, that the whole party of men enter and dispatch them
+with clubs; not one escaping that has entered the inclosure. The
+most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an animal so
+fleet and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life,
+should range round and round this fated inclosure, without
+attempting to overleap the low barrier which surrounds it. Such,
+however, is said to be the fact; and such their only mode of
+hunting the antelope.
+
+Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in
+their habitations, and the general squalidness of their
+appearance, the Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of
+ingenuity. They manufacture good ropes, and even a tolerably fine
+thread, from a sort of weed found in their neighborhood; and
+construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of basket-work formed from
+small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid of a little wax,
+they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on which they
+mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities of
+seed, of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of
+the plants into wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus
+collected is winnowed and parched, and ground between two stones
+into a kind of meal or flour; which, when mixed with water, forms
+a very palatable paste or gruel.
+
+Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the
+rest, lay up a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter:
+with these, they were ready to traffic with the travellers for
+any objects of utility in Indian life; giving a large quantity in
+exchange for an awl, a knife, or a fish-hook. Others were in the
+most abject state of want and starvation; and would even gather
+up the fish-bones which the travellers threw away after a repast,
+warm them over again at the fire, and pick them with the greatest
+avidity.
+
+The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these
+Root Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and
+forlorn condition. "They were destitute," says he, "of the
+necessary covering to protect them from the weather; and seemed
+to be in the most unsophisticated ignorance of any other
+propriety or advantage in the use of clothing. One old dame had
+absolutely nothing on her person but a thread round her neck,
+from which was pendant a solitary bead."
+
+What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for
+vanity! Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither
+toilet to arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest
+passion was for a mirror. It was a "great medicine," in their
+eyes. The sight of one was sufficient, at any time, to throw them
+into a paroxysm of eagerness and delight; and they were ready to
+give anything they had for the smallest fragment in which they
+might behold their squalid features. With this simple instance of
+vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall close our
+remarks on the Root Diggers.
+
+
+
+                              30. 
+ Temperature of the climate Root Diggers on horseback An Indian
+ guide Mountain prospects  The Grand Rond Difficulties on Snake
+    River A scramble over the Blue Mountains Sufferings from
+ hunger Prospect of the Immahah Valley  The exhausted traveller
+
+THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is
+much milder than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the
+upper plains, however, which lie at a distance from the
+sea-coast, are subject in winter to considerable vicissitude;
+being traversed by lofty "sierras," crowned with perpetual snow,
+which often produce flaws and streaks of intense cold This was
+experienced by Captain Bonneville and his companions in their
+progress westward. At the time when they left the Bannacks Snake
+River was frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice became broken
+and floating; it gradually disappeared, and the weather became
+warm and pleasant, as they approached a tributary stream called
+the Little Wyer; and the soil, which was generally of a watery
+clay, with occasional intervals of sand, was soft to the tread of
+the horses. After a time, however, the mountains approached and
+flanked the river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and the
+current was once more icebound.
+
+Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were
+apparently rising in the world, for they had "horse to ride and
+weapon to wear," and were altogether better clad and equipped
+than any of the tribe that Captain Bonneville had met with. They
+were just from the plain of Boisee River, where they had left a
+number of their tribe, all as well provided as themselves; having
+guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these they obtained
+from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits [sic] of
+frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that tribe
+their noncombative principles, being mild and inoffensive in
+their manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious
+feelings; for Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating,
+they washed their hands, and made a short prayer; which he
+understood was their invariable custom. From these Indians, he
+obtained a considerable supply of fish, and an excellent and
+well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had become too weak
+for the journey.
+
+The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the
+snow, it is true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but
+they trudged on merrily, considering themselves well provided for
+the journey, which could not be of much longer duration.
+
+They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream
+which flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by
+the natives that the route in that direction was impracticable.
+The latter advised them to keep along Snake River, where they
+would not be impeded by the snow. Taking one of the Diggers for a
+guide, they set off along the river, and to their joy soon found
+the country free from snow, as had been predicted, so that their
+horses once more had the benefit of tolerable pasturage. Their
+Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging cheerily in the
+advance. He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer and a
+beaver; but at night found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted the
+occupant, upon which, with the addition of a fish given him by
+the travellers, he made a hearty supper, and retired to rest,
+filled with good cheer and good humor.
+
+The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon
+the river, leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow
+land. The river was sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long
+intervals. The Digger kept on ahead of the party, crossing and
+recrossing the river in pursuit of game, until, unluckily,
+encountering a brother Digger, he stole off with him, without the
+ceremony of leave-taking.
+
+Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to
+some Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language
+totally different from any they had yet heard. One, however,
+understood the Nez Perce language, and through him they made
+inquiries as to their route. These Indians were extremely kind
+and honest, and furnished them with a small quantity of meat; but
+none of them could be induced to act as guides.
+
+Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain,
+which they ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the
+summit was grand but disheartening. Directly before them towered
+the loftiest peaks of Immahah, rising far higher than the
+elevated ground on which they stood: on the other hand, they were
+enabled to scan the course of the river, dashing along through
+deep chasms, between rocks and precipices, until lost in a
+distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage
+landscape.
+
+They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and
+anxious eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and
+seeking to discover some practicable passage. The approach of
+evening obliged them to give up the task, and to seek some
+camping ground for the night. Moving briskly forward, and
+plunging and tossing through a succession of deep snow-drifts,
+they at length reached a valley known among trappers as the
+"Grand Rond," which they found entirely free from snow.
+
+This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles
+long and five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the
+Fourche de Glace, or Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered
+situation, embosomed in mountains, renders it good pasturaging
+ground in the winter time; when the elk come down to it in great
+numbers, driven out of the mountains by the snow. The Indians
+then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come to it in the summer
+time to dig the camash root, of which it produces immense
+quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is
+tinted by its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when
+overcast by a cloud.
+
+After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the
+morning scaled the neighboring hills, to look out for a more
+eligible route than that upon which they had unluckily fallen;
+and, after much reconnoitring, determined to make their way once
+more to the river, and to travel upon the ice when the banks
+should prove impassable.
+
+On the second day after this determination, they were again upon
+Snake River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly
+free from ice. A narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes
+there was a kind of bridge across the stream, formed of old ice
+and snow. For a short time, they jogged along the bank, with
+tolerable facility, but at length came to where the river forced
+its way into the heart of the mountains, winding between
+tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose perpendicularly from
+the water's edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy grandeur. Here
+difficulties of all kinds beset their path. The snow was from two
+to three feet deep, but soft and yielding, so that the horses had
+no foothold, but kept plunging forward, straining themselves by
+perpetual efforts. Sometimes the crags and promontories forced
+them upon the narrow riband of ice that bordered the shore;
+sometimes they had to scramble over vast masses of rock which had
+tumbled from the impending precipices; sometimes they had to
+cross the stream upon the hazardous bridges of ice and snow,
+sinking to the knee at every step; sometimes they had to scale
+slippery acclivities, and to pass along narrow cornices, glazed
+with ice and sleet, a shouldering wall of rock on one side, a
+yawning precipice on the other, where a single false step would
+have been fatal. In a lower and less dangerous pass, two of their
+horses actually fell into the river; one was saved with much
+difficulty, but the boldness of the shore prevented their
+rescuing the other, and he was swept away by the rapid current.
+
+In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties
+and dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was
+narrowed to a mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that
+defied all further progress. Turning their faces now to the
+mountain, they endeavored to cross directly over it; but, after
+clambering nearly to the summit, found their path closed by
+insurmountable barriers.
+
+Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a
+cragged mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than
+to ascend it. They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly,
+from steep to steep; and, while they managed with difficulty to
+maintain their own footing, to aid their horses by holding on
+firmly to the rope halters, as the poor animals stumbled among
+slippery rocks, or slid down icy declivities. Thus, after a day
+of intense cold, and severe and incessant toil, amidst the
+wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to reach the
+camping ground, from which they had started in the morning, and
+for the first time in the course of their rugged and perilous
+expedition, felt their hearts quailing under their multiplied
+hardships.
+
+A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night's
+sleep, put them all in better mood, and in the morning they held
+a consultation as to their future movements. About four miles
+behind, they had remarked a small ridge of mountains approaching
+closely to the river. It was determined to scale this ridge, and
+seek a passage into the valley which must lie beyond. Should they
+fail in this, but one alternative remained. To kill their horses,
+dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of the hides, and, in
+these, commit themselves to the stream--a measure hazardous in
+the extreme.
+
+A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its
+steep and cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance
+of scaling it was by broken masses of rock, piled one upon
+another, which formed a succession of crags, reaching nearly to
+the summit. Up these they wrought their way with indescribable
+difficulty and peril, in a zigzag course, climbing from rock to
+rock, and helping their horses up after them; which scrambled
+among the crags like mountain goats; now and then dislodging some
+huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would roll down
+the mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It was
+some time after dark before they reached a kind of platform on
+the summit of the mountain, where they could venture to encamp.
+The winds, which swept this naked height, had whirled all the
+snow into the valley beneath, so that the horses found tolerable
+winter pasturage on the dry grass which remained exposed. The
+travellers, though hungry in the extreme, were fain to make a
+very frugal supper; for they saw their journey was likely to be
+prolonged much beyond the anticipated term.
+
+In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although
+already at a great elevation, they were only as yet upon the
+shoulder of the mountain. It proved to be a great sierra, or
+ridge, of immense height, running parallel to the course of the
+river, swelling by degrees to lofty peaks, but the outline gashed
+by deep and precipitous ravines. This, in fact, was a part of the
+chain of Blue Mountains, in which the first adventurers to
+Astoria experienced such hardships.
+
+We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in
+this tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had
+unconsciously betrayed themselves. Day after day did their toil
+continue; peak after peak had they to traverse, struggling with
+difficulties and hardships known only to the mountain trapper. As
+their course lay north, they had to ascend the southern faces of
+the heights, where the sun had melted the snow, so as to render
+the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and horses
+continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow
+lay in such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track
+down which the horses might be led. Every now and then, also,
+their way was impeded by tall and numerous pines, some of which
+had fallen, and lay in every direction.
+
+In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave
+out. For three days they were without food, and so reduced that
+they could scarcely drag themselves along. At length one of the
+mules, being about to give out from fatigue and famine, they
+hastened to dispatch him. Husbanding this miserable supply, they
+dried the flesh, and for three days subsisted upon the nutriment
+extracted from the bones. As to the meat, it was packed and
+preserved as long as they could do without it, not knowing how
+long they might remain bewildered in these desolate regions.
+
+One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the
+country, and to discover, if possible, some more practicable
+route. In the meantime, the rest of the party moved on slowly.
+After a lapse of three days, the scout rejoined them. He informed
+them that Snake River ran immediately below the sierra or
+mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling; that it was
+free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them in a
+direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it
+without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to
+cross the mountain ridge to the left.
+
+Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their
+steps; and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state,
+was one of the severest parts of this most painful journey. For
+two days were they toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at
+every step a path through the snow for their faltering horses. At
+length they reached the summit, where the snow was blown off; but
+in descending on the opposite side, they were often plunging
+through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and ravines.
+
+Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses
+almost ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one
+afternoon, just as the sun was sinking behind a blue line of
+distant mountain, they came to the brow of a height from which
+they beheld the smooth valley of the Immahah stretched out in
+smiling verdure below them.
+
+The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new
+ardor, they forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down
+the mountain, dragging their jaded horses after them, and
+sometimes compelling them to slide a distance of thirty or forty
+feet at a time. At length they reached the banks of the Immahah.
+The young grass was just beginning to sprout, and the whole
+valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and repose,
+heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which
+they had just descended. To add to their joy, they observed
+Indian trails along the margin of the stream, and other signs,
+which gave them reason to believe that there was an encampment of
+the Lower Nez Perces in the neighborhood, as it was within the
+accustomed range of that pacific and hospitable tribe.
+
+The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion,
+and they continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of
+themselves and their steeds would permit. At length, one of the
+men, more exhausted than the rest, threw himself upon the grass,
+and declared he could go no further. It was in vain to attempt to
+rouse him; his spirit had given out, and his replies only showed
+the dogged apathy of despair. His companions, therefore, encamped
+on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched about for roots
+with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then made a
+starveling repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past
+dangers and troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that
+all were now at an end, and went to sleep with the comforting
+hope that the morrow would bring them into plentiful quarters.
+
+
+
+                              31. 
+                                
+Progress in the valley An Indian cavalier The captain falls into
+a lethargy A Nez Perce patriarch  Hospitable treatment The bald
+ head Bargaining  Value of an old plaid cloak The family horse 
+                 The cost of an Indian present
+
+A TRANQUIL NIGHT'S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down
+traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands
+set forward on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to
+arrive within reach of succor, such was their feeble and
+emaciated condition, that they advanced but slowly. Nor is it a
+matter of surprise that they should almost have lost heart, as
+well as strength. It was now (the 16th of February) fifty-three
+days that they had been travelling in the midst of winter,
+exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for the
+last twenty days, they had been entangled in the wild and
+desolate labyrinths of the snowy mountains; climbing and
+descending icy precipices, and nearly starved with cold and
+hunger.
+
+All the morning they continued following the Indian trail,
+without seeing a human being, and were beginning to be
+discouraged, when, about noon, they discovered a horseman at a
+distance. He was coming directly toward them; but on discovering
+them, suddenly reined up his steed, came to a halt, and, after
+reconnoitring them for a time with great earnestness, seemed
+about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made signs of
+peace, and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him to
+approach. He remained for some time in doubt; but at length,
+having satisfied himself that they were not enemies, came
+galloping up to them. He was a fine, haughty-looking savage,
+fancifully decorated, and mounted on a high-mettled steed, with
+gaudy trappings and equipments. It was evident that he was a
+warrior of some consequence among his tribe. His whole deportment
+had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt, perhaps, his
+temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit of his
+steed, to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their
+half-starved horses. Approaching them with an air of protection,
+he gave them his hand, and, in the Nez Perce language, invited
+them to his camp, which was only a few miles distant; where he
+had plenty to eat, and plenty of horses, and would cheerfully
+share his good things with them.
+
+His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but
+a moment, to give directions by which they might find his camp,
+and then, wheeling round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome
+steed, was soon out of sight. The travellers followed, with
+gladdened hearts, but at a snail's pace; for their poor horses
+could scarcely drag one leg after the other. Captain Bonneville,
+however, experienced a sudden and singular change of feeling.
+Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his party, and of providing
+against every emergency, had kept his mind upon the stretch, and
+his whole system braced and excited. In no one instance had he
+flagged in spirit, or felt disposed to succumb. Now, however,
+that all danger was over, and the march of a few miles would
+bring them to repose and abundance, his energies suddenly
+deserted him; and every faculty, mental and physical, was totally
+relaxed. He had not proceeded two miles from the point where he
+had had the interview with the Nez Perce chief, when he threw
+himself upon the earth, without the power or will to move a
+muscle, or exert a thought, and sank almost instantly into a
+profound and dreamless sleep. His companions again came to a
+halt, and encamped beside him, and there they passed the night.
+
+The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and
+heavy sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping
+progress. They had not long been on the march, when eight or ten
+of the Nez Perce tribe came galloping to meet them, leading fresh
+horses to bear them to their camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they
+felt new life infused into their languid frames, and dashing
+forward, were soon at the lodges of the Nez Perces. Here they
+found about twelve families living together, under the
+patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He received
+them with the hospitality of the golden age, and with something
+of the same kind of fare; for, while he opened his arms to make
+them welcome, the only repast he set before them consisted of
+roots. They could have wished for something more hearty and
+substantial; but, for want of better, made a voracious meal on
+these humble viands. The repast being over, the best pipe was
+lighted and sent round: and this was a most welcome luxury,
+having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days before, among the
+mountains.
+
+While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were
+led to the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were
+turned loose to revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they
+had better fare than their masters.
+
+Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these
+quiet, inoffensive people. His long residence among their
+cousins, the Upper Nez Perces, had made him conversant with their
+language, modes of expression, and all their habitudes. He soon
+found, too, that he was well known among them, by report, at
+least, from the constant interchange of visits and messages
+between the two branches of the tribe. They at first addressed
+him by his name; giving him his title of captain, with a French
+accent: but they soon gave him a title of their own; which, as
+usual with Indian titles, had a peculiar signification. In the
+case of the captain, it had somewhat of a whimsical origin.
+
+As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would
+occasionally take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a
+sensation in the surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise
+from their recumbent posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head,
+with their usual exclamation of astonishment. The worthy captain
+was completely bald; a phenomenon very surprising in their eyes.
+They were at a loss to know whether he had been scalped in
+battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity from that belligerent
+infliction. In a little while, he became known among them by an
+Indian name, signifying "the bald chief." "A sobriquet," observes
+the captain, "for which I can find no parallel in history since
+the days of 'Charles the Bald.'"
+
+Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled
+with tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare.
+In approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in
+fond anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the
+kind still haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured
+down. The keen appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a
+fortnight's fasting, at length got the better of all scruples of
+pride, and they fairly begged some fish or flesh from the
+hospitable savages. The latter, however, were slow to break in
+upon their winter store, which was very limited; but were ready
+to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced excellent
+food. At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of
+attaining the much-coveted gratification.
+
+He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued
+travelling companion and comforter; upon which the rains had
+descended, and the snows and winds beaten, without further effect
+than somewhat to tarnish its primitive lustre. This coat of many
+colors had excited the admiration, and inflamed the covetousness
+of both warriors and squaws, to an extravagant degree. An idea
+now occurred to Captain Bonneville, to convert this rainbow
+garment into the savory viands so much desired. There was a
+momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and
+projected indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was
+made, he says, with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true
+taste and sentiment might have required. In a few moments, his
+plaid cloak was cut into numerous strips. "Of these," continues
+he, "with the newly developed talent of a man-milliner, I
+speedily constructed turbans a la Turque, and fanciful head-gears
+of divers conformations. These, judiciously distributed among
+such of the womenkind as seemed of most consequence and interest
+in the eyes of the patres conscripti, brought us, in a little
+while, abundance of dried salmon and deers' hearts; on which we
+made a sumptous supper. Another, and a more satisfactory smoke,
+succeeded this repast, and sweet slumbers answering the peaceful
+invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in that delicious rest, which
+is only won by toil and travail." As to Captain Bonneville, he
+slept in the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had evidently
+conceived a most disinterested affection for him; as was shown on
+the following morning. The travellers, invigorated by a good
+supper, and "fresh from the bath of repose," were about to resume
+their journey, when this affectionate old chief took the captain
+aside, to let him know how much he loved him. As a proof of his
+regard, he had determined to give him a fine horse, which would
+go further than words, and put his good will beyond all question.
+So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a beautiful young
+horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting, to the
+place. Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of
+friendship; but his experience in what is proverbially called
+"Indian giving," made him aware that a parting pledge was
+necessary on his own part, to prove that his friendship was
+reciprocated. He accordingly placed a handsome rifle in the hands
+of the venerable chief, whose benevolent heart was evidently
+touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign of amity.
+
+Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of
+friendship, the captain was about to shift his saddle to this
+noble gift-horse when the affectionate patriarch plucked him by
+the sleeve, and introduced to him a whimpering, whining,
+leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have passed for an
+Egyptian mummy, without drying. "This," said he, "is my wife; she
+is a good wife--I love her very much.--She loves the horse--she
+loves him a great deal--she will cry very much at losing him.--I
+do not know how I shall comfort her--and that makes my heart very
+sore."
+
+What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted
+old squaw, and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch
+from a curtain lecture? He bethought himself of a pair of
+ear-bobs: it was true, the patriarch's better-half was of an age
+and appearance that seemed to put personal vanity out of the
+question, but when is personal vanity extinct? The moment he
+produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering and whining of
+the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed the
+precious baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of
+Endor, went off with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as
+though she had been a perfect Semiramis.
+
+The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his
+foot was in the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again
+stepped forward, and presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who
+had a peculiarly sulky look. "This," said the venerable chief,
+"is my son: he is very good; a great horseman--he always took
+care of this very fine horse--he brought him up from a colt, and
+made him what he is.--He is very fond of this fine horse--he
+loves him like a brother-- his heart will be very heavy when this
+fine horse leaves the camp."
+
+What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this
+venerable pair, and comfort him for the loss of his
+foster-brother, the horse? He bethought him of a hatchet, which
+might be spared from his slender stores. No sooner did he place
+the implement into the hands of the young hopeful, than his
+countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing in his
+hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her
+ear-bobs.
+
+The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the
+affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time,
+and, while he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held
+up the rifle in the other. "This rifle," said he, "shall be my
+great medicine. I will hug it to my heart--I will always love it,
+for the sake of my good friend, the bald-headed chief.--But a
+rifle, by itself, is dumb--I cannot make it speak. If I had a
+little powder and ball, I would take it out with me, and would
+now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the meat home to my
+hungry family, I would say--This was killed by the rifle of my
+friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine
+horse."
+
+There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith,
+furnished the coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same
+time, put spurs to his very fine gift-horse, and the first trial
+of his speed was to get out of all further manifestation of
+friendship, on the part of the affectionate old patriarch and his
+insinuating family.
+
+
+
+                              32. 
+                                
+ Nez Perce camp A chief with a hard name The Big Hearts of the
+     East Hospitable treatment The Indian guides Mysterious
+     councils The loquacious chief Indian tomb Grand Indian
+    reception An Indian feast Town-criers Honesty of the Nez
+            Perces The captain's attempt at healing.
+
+FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his
+three companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their
+route now lay over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with
+profound valleys. On the second day, after taking leave of the
+affectionate old patriarch, as they were descending into one of
+those deep and abrupt intervals, they descried a smoke, and
+shortly afterward came in sight of a small encampment of Nez
+Perces.
+
+The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white
+men approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and
+invited them to encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of
+a venerable chief named Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall
+be careful not to inflict oftener than is necessary upon the
+reader This ancient and hard-named chieftain welcomed Captain
+Bonneville to his camp with the same hospitality and loving
+kindness that he had experienced from his predecessor. He told
+the captain he had often heard of the Americans and their
+generous deeds, and that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez
+Perces) had always spoken of them as the Big-hearted whites of
+the East, the very good friends of the Nez Perces.
+
+Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility
+of this magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he
+might be involved in a second interchange of pledges of
+friendship. He hastened, therefore, to let the old chief know his
+poverty-stricken state, and how little there was to be expected
+from him.
+
+He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among
+the Upper Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had
+thrown their arms around them, and now held them close to their
+hearts. That he had received such good accounts from the Upper
+Nez Perces of their cousins, the Lower Nez Perce-s, that he had
+become desirous of knowing them as friends and brothers. That he
+and his companions had accordingly loaded a mule with presents
+and set off for the country of the Lower Nez Perces; but,
+unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the snowy
+mountains; and that the mule with all the presents had fallen
+into Snake River, and been swept away by the rapid current. That
+instead, therefore, of arriving among their friends, the Nez
+Perces, with light hearts and full hands, they came naked,
+hungry, and broken down; and instead of making them presents,
+must depend upon them even for food. "But," concluded he, "we are
+going to the white men's fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and will soon
+return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce friends like the true
+Big Hearts of the East."
+
+Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had
+any effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable
+feelings which, according to the captain, are really inherent in
+the Nez Perce tribe, he certainly showed no disposition to relax
+his friendship on learning the destitute circumstances of his
+guests. On the contrary, he urged the captain to remain with them
+until the following day, when he would accompany him on his
+journey, and make him acquainted with all his people. In the
+meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for travelling
+provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not as an
+article of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests
+were hungry and in need of food.
+
+Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable
+arrangement. The carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due
+season, but the captain insisted that one half of it should be
+set apart for the use of the chieftain's family.
+
+At an early hour of the following morning, the little party
+resumed their journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian
+guide. Their route was over a rugged and broken country; where
+the hills were slippery with ice and snow. Their horses, too,
+were so weak and jaded, that they could scarcely climb the steep
+ascents, or maintain their foothold on the frozen declivities.
+Throughout the whole of the journey, the old chief and the guide
+were unremitting in their good offices, and continually on the
+alert to select the best roads, and assist them through all
+difficulties. Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be
+dependent on their Indian friends for almost every thing, for
+they had lost their tobacco and pipes, those great comforts of
+the trapper, and had but a few charges of powder left, which it
+was necessary to husband for the purpose of lighting their fires.
+
+In the course of the day the old chief had several private
+consultations with the guide, and showed evident signs of being
+occupied with some mysterious matter of mighty import. What it
+was, Captain Bonneville could not fathom, nor did he make much
+effort to do so. From some casual sentences that he overheard, he
+perceived that it was something from which the old man promised
+himself much satisfaction, and to which he attached a little
+vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he suffered
+him to spin out his petty plans unmolested.
+
+In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy
+counsellor, the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after
+which the guide mounted his horse and departed on some secret
+mission, while the chief resumed his seat at the fire, and sat
+humming to himself in a pleasing but mystic reverie.
+
+The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the
+Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they
+met the guide returning from his secret errand. Another private
+conference was held between him and the old managing chief, who
+now seemed more inflated than ever with mystery and
+self-importance. Numerous fresh trails, and various other signs,
+persuaded Captain Bonneville that there must be a considerable
+village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as his worthy
+companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as it
+appeared to be in some way connected with his secret operations,
+he asked no questions, but patiently awaited the development of
+his mystery.
+
+As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians
+were bathing in a small stream. The good old chief immediately
+came to a halt, and had a long conversation with them, in the
+course of which he repeated to them the whole history which
+Captain Bonneville had related to him. In fact, he seems to have
+been a very sociable, communicative old man; by no means
+afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged upon the
+Indians. On the contrary, he was fond of long talks and long
+smokings, and evidently was proud of his new friend, the
+bald-headed chief, and took a pleasure in sounding his praises,
+and setting forth the power and glory of the Big Hearts of the
+East.
+
+Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his
+bathing friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and
+proceeded onward with the captain and his companions. As they
+approached the Way-lee-way, however, the communicative old chief
+met with another and a very different occasion to exert his
+colloquial powers. On the banks of the river stood an isolated
+mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with some emotion.
+"The big heart and the strong arm," said he, "lie buried beneath
+that sod."
+
+It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen
+warrior of the tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in
+pursuit of a war party of Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses
+of the village. The enemy bore off his scalp as a trophy; but his
+friends found his body in this lonely place, and committed it to
+the earth with ceremonials characteristic of their pious and
+reverential feelings. They gathered round the grave and mourned;
+the warriors were silent in their grief; but the women and
+children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations. "For three
+days," said the old man, "we performed the solemn dances for the
+dead, and prayed the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy
+in the land of brave warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his
+grave fifteen of our best and strongest horses, to serve him when
+he should arrive at the happy hunting grounds; and having done
+all this, we returned sorrowfully to our homes."
+
+While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping
+up, and, presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and
+was speedily out of sight. The eyes of the old chief now
+brightened; and all his self-importance returned. His petty
+mystery was about to explode. Turning to Captain Bonneville, he
+pointed to a hill hard by, and informed him, that behind it was a
+village governed by a little chief, whom he had notified of the
+approach of the bald-headed chief, and a party of the Big Hearts
+of the East, and that he was prepared to receive them in becoming
+style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to salute them
+with a discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of gunpowder
+that they might return the salute in a manner correspondent to
+his dignity.
+
+They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill,
+when the whole population of the village broke upon their view,
+drawn out in the most imposing style, and arrayed in all their
+finery. The effect of the whole was wild and fantastic, yet
+singularly striking. In the front rank were the chiefs and
+principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated; behind them
+were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and children.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging
+salutes of firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance,
+they dismounted. The chiefs then came forward successively,
+according to their respective characters and consequence, to
+offer the hand of good fellowship; each filing off when he had
+shaken hands, to make way for his successor. Those in the next
+rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all had given
+the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief,
+according to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of
+his people advanced whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or
+confidence of the white men, he motioned them off by a wave of
+the hand, and they would submissively walk away. When Captain
+Bonneville turned upon him an inquiring look, he would observe,
+"he was a bad man," or something quite as concise, and there was
+an end of the matter.
+
+Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a
+comfortable lodge was soon erected for the strangers, where they
+were kept constantly supplied with wood and water, and other
+necessaries; and all their effects were placed in safe keeping.
+Their horses, too, were unsaddled, and turned loose to graze, and
+a guard set to keep watch upon them.
+
+All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building
+or council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather
+banquet, was spread, which seemed to realize all the
+gastronomical dreams that had tantalized them during their long
+starvation; for here they beheld not merely fish and roots in
+abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk, and the choicest pieces
+of buffalo meat. It is needless to say how vigorously they
+acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how unnecessary it was
+for their hosts to practice the usual cramming principle of
+Indian hospitality.
+
+When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed
+the same curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain
+information concerning the United States, of which they knew
+little but what they derived through their cousins, the Upper Nez
+Perces; as their traffic is almost exclusively with the British
+traders of the Hudson's Bay Company. Captain Bonneville did his
+best to set forth the merits of his nation, and the importance of
+their friendship to the red men, in which he was ably seconded by
+his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name, who did all
+that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East.
+
+The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and
+evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus
+set forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence
+after sentence was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of
+the whole village.
+
+This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined
+to the Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has
+its advantage where there are no gazettes to publish the news of
+the day, or to report the proceedings of important meetings. And
+in fact, reports of this kind, viva voce, made in the hearing of
+all parties, and liable to be contradicted or corrected on the
+spot, are more likely to convey accurate information to the
+public mind than those circulated through the press. The office
+of crier is generally filled by some old man, who is good for
+little else. A village has generally several of these walking
+newspapers, as they are termed by the whites, who go about
+proclaiming the news of the day, giving notice of public
+councils, expeditions, dances, feasts, and other ceremonials, and
+advertising anything lost. While Captain Bonneville remained
+among the Nez Perces, if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of
+similar value, was lost or mislaid, it was carried by the finder
+to the lodge of the chief, and proclamation was made by one of
+their criers, for the owner to come and claim his property.
+
+How difficult it is to get at the true character of these
+wandering tribes of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had
+to speak of this tribe of Indians from the experience of other
+traders who had casually been among them, and who represented
+them as selfish, inhospitable, exorbitant in their dealings, and
+much addicted to thieving; Captain Bonneville, on the contrary,
+who resided much among them, and had repeated opportunities of
+ascertaining their real character, invariably speaks of them as
+kind and hospitable, scrupulously honest, and remarkable, above
+all other Indians that he had met with, for a strong feeling of
+religion. In fact, so enthusiastic is he in their praise, that he
+pronounces them, all ignorant and barbarous as they are by their
+condition, one of the purest hearted people on the face of the
+earth.
+
+Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases,
+among the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins
+here, and gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man.
+He had not been long in the village, therefore, before his lodge
+began to be the resort of the sick and the infirm. The captain
+felt the value of the reputation thus accidentally and cheaply
+acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As he had arrived at that
+age when every man is, experimentally, something of a physician,
+he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge in the
+healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently
+successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians
+that report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only
+patient that effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged
+any attempt at relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard
+cough, and one leg in the grave; it being shrunk and rendered
+useless by a rheumatic affection. This was a case beyond his
+mark; however, he comforted the old woman with a promise that he
+would endeavor to procure something to relieve her, at the fort
+on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his return; with
+which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he
+presented the captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for
+the journey: a medical fee which was thankfully accepted.
+
+While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found
+an owner for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger
+at the Big Wyer. The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse
+had been stolen from him some time previous, by some unknown
+thief. "However," said the considerate savage, "you got him in
+fair trade--you are more in want of horses than I am: keep him;
+he is yours--he is a good horse; use him well."
+
+Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and
+generosity, which his destitute condition did not allow him to
+reciprocate, Captain Bonneville passed some short time among
+these good people, more and more impressed with the general
+excellence of their character.
+
+
+
+                              33.
+                                
+  Scenery of the Way-lee-way A substitute for tobacco Sublime
+scenery of Snake River The garrulous old chief and his cousin A
+ Nez Perce meeting A stolen skin The scapegoat dog  Mysterious
+   conferences The little chief His hospitality The captain's
+        account of the United States His healing skill 
+
+IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the
+same Nez Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was
+important in choosing the routes and resting places. He also
+continued to be accompanied by the worthy old chief with the hard
+name, who seemed bent upon doing the honors of the country, and
+introducing him to every branch of his tribe. The Way-lee-way,
+down the banks of which Captain Bonneville and his companions
+were now travelling, is a considerable stream winding through a
+succession of bold and beautiful scenes. Sometimes the landscape
+towered into bold and mountainous heights that partook of
+sublimity; at other times, it stretched along the water side in
+fresh smiling meadows, and graceful undulating valleys.
+
+Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the
+Nez Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and
+who, generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their
+adventures; a curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly
+satisfied by the replies of the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who
+kindly took upon himself to be spokesman of the party.
+
+The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
+excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted
+all his stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with
+which to regale his white companions. In this emergency, he cut
+up the stem of his pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with
+certain herbs, and thus manufactured a temporary succedaneum to
+enable him to accompany his long colloquies and harangues with
+the customary fragrant cloud.
+
+If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with
+its mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on
+once more reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and
+astonishment. At times, the river was overhung by dark and
+stupendous rocks, rising like gigantic walls and battlements;
+these would be rent by wide and yawning chasms, that seemed to
+speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes the river was of a
+glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it roared along
+in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks were
+piled in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another
+place, they were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with
+green-award. The whole of this wild and varied scenery was
+dominated by immense mountains rearing their distant peaks into
+the clouds. "The grandeur and originality of the views, presented
+on every side," says Captain Bonneville, "beggar both the pencil
+and the pen. Nothing we had ever gazed upon in any other region
+could for a moment compare in wild majesty and impressive
+sternness, with the series of scenes which here at every turn
+astonished our senses, and filled us with awe and delight."
+
+Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us,
+and the accounts of other travellers, who passed through these
+regions in the memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined
+to think that Snake River must be one of the most remarkable for
+varied and striking scenery of all the rivers of this continent.
+From its head waters in the Rocky Mountains, to its junction with
+the Columbia, its windings are upward of six hundred miles
+through every variety of landscape. Rising in a volcanic region,
+amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the traces of
+ancient fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava and
+sandy deserts, penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains,
+broken into romantic and often frightful precipices, and crowned
+with eternal snows; and at other times, careers through green and
+smiling meadows, and wide landscapes of Italian grace and beauty.
+Wildness and sublimity, however, appear to be its prevailing
+characteristics.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a
+considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the
+old chief halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that
+they should turn their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a
+cousin of his from a group of lodges on the opposite side of the
+stream. His summons was quickly answered. An Indian, of an active
+elastic form, leaped into a light canoe of cotton-wood, and
+vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot across the river.
+Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and frank
+demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn.
+The old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now
+presented Captain Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name,
+we regret to say, was no less hard being nothing less than
+Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The latter evinced the usual curiosity to
+know all about the strangers, whence they came whither they were
+going, the object of their journey, and the adventures they had
+experienced. All these, of course, were ample and eloquently set
+forth by the communicative old chief. To all his grandiloquent
+account of the bald-headed chief and his countrymen, the Big
+Hearts of the East, his cousin listened with great attention, and
+replied in the customary style of Indian welcome. He then desired
+the party to await his return, and, springing into his canoe,
+darted across the river. In a little while he returned, bringing
+a most welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of provisions
+for the road, declaring his intention of accompanying the party.
+Having no horse, he mounted behind one of the men, observing that
+he should procure a steed for himself on the following day.
+
+They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not
+many miles beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was
+one, whom Captain Bonneville and his comrades had known during
+their residence among the Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them
+with open arms. In this neighborhood was the home of their guide,
+who took leave of them with a profusion of good wishes for their
+safety and happiness. That night they put up in the hut of a Nez
+Perce, where they were visited by several warriors from the other
+side of the river, friends of the old chief and his cousin, who
+came to have a talk and a smoke with the white men. The heart of
+the good old chief was overflowing with good will at thus being
+surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with more
+spirit and vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect
+harmony and good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the
+visitors took their leave and recrossed the river.
+
+After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of
+the Nez Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance
+calculated to throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the
+course of the social and harmonious evening just mentioned, one
+of the captain's men, who happened to be something of a virtuoso
+in his way, and fond of collecting curiosities, produced a small
+skin, a great rarity in the eyes of men conversant in peltries.
+It attracted much attention among the visitors from beyond the
+river, who passed it from one to the other, examined it with
+looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great medicine.
+
+In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set
+off, the precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the
+hut, but it was nowhere to be found; and it was strongly
+suspected that it had been purloined by some of the connoisseurs
+from the other side of the river.
+
+The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed
+delinquency of their friends across the water, and called out for
+them to come over and answer for their shameful conduct. The
+others answered to the call with all the promptitude of perfect
+innocence, and spurned at the idea of their being capable of such
+outrage upon any of the Big-hearted nation. All were at a loss on
+whom to fix the crime of abstracting the invaluable skin, when by
+chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the water fell upon
+an unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He was a
+gallows-looking dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who,
+take them in the mass, are little better than a generation of
+vipers. Be that as it may, he was instantly accused of having
+devoured the skin in question. A dog accused is generally a dog
+condemned; and a dog condemned is generally a dog executed. So
+was it in the present instance. The unfortunate cur was
+arraigned; his thievish looks substantiated his guilt, and he was
+condemned by his judges from across the river to be hanged. In
+vain the Indians of the hut, with whom he was a great favorite,
+interceded in his behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville and his
+comrades petitioned that his life might be spared. His judges
+were inexorable. He was doubly guilty: first, in having robbed
+their good friends, the Big Hearts of the East; secondly, in
+having brought a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe. He
+was, accordingly, swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his
+death more certain. The sentence of the judges being thoroughly
+executed, a post mortem examination of the body of the dog was
+held, to establish his delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave
+the Nez Perces without a shadow of suspicion. Great interest, of
+course, was manifested by all present, during this operation. The
+body of the dog was opened, the intestines rigorously
+scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned, not a particle
+of the skin was to be found--the dog had been unjustly executed!
+
+A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party
+from across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now
+prompted them to the most vociferous vindications of their
+innocence. It was with the utmost difficulty that the captain and
+his comrades could calm their lively sensibilities, by accounting
+for the disappearance of the skin in a dozen different ways,
+until all idea of its having been stolen was entirely out of the
+question.
+
+The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river,
+the captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the
+spirits of the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were
+for a time completely dampened, and he evinced great
+mortification at what had just occurred. He rode on in silence,
+except, that now and then he would give way to a burst of
+indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head and a toss of
+the hand toward the opposite shore--"bad men, very bad men across
+the river"; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy
+cousin, Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of
+acquiescence, equivalent to an amen.
+
+After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared
+up, and he fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with
+his cousin, which ended in the departure of the latter, who,
+applying the lash to his horse, dashed forward and was soon out
+of sight. In fact, they were drawing near to the village of
+another chief, likewise distinguished by an appellation of some
+longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as the great chief.
+The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their approach;
+a herald appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to enable
+them to respond to the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their
+approach to the village, similar to that which had occurred at
+the village of the little chief. The whole population appeared in
+the field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with the customary regard
+to rank and dignity. Then came on the firing of salutes, and the
+shaking of hands, in which last ceremonial every individual, man,
+woman, and child, participated; for the Indians have an idea that
+it is as indispensable an overture of friendship among the whites
+as smoking of the pipe is among the red men. The travellers were
+next ushered to the banquet, where all the choicest viands that
+the village could furnish, were served up in rich profusion. They
+were afterwards entertained by feats of agility and horseraces;
+indeed, their visit to the village seemed the signal for complete
+festivity. In the meantime, a skin lodge had been spread for
+their accommodation, their horses and baggage were taken care of,
+and wood and water supplied in abundance. At night, therefore,
+they retired to their quarters, to enjoy, as they supposed, the
+repose of which they stood in need. No such thing, however, was
+in store for them. A crowd of visitors awaited their appearance,
+all eager for a smoke and a talk. The pipe was immediately
+lighted, and constantly replenished and kept alive until the
+night was far advanced. As usual, the utmost eagerness was
+evinced by the guests to learn everything within the scope of
+their comprehension respecting the Americans, for whom they
+professed the most fraternal regard. The captain, in his replies,
+made use of familiar illustrations, calculated to strike their
+minds, and impress them with such an idea of the might of his
+nation, as would induce them to treat with kindness and respect
+all stragglers that might fall in their path. To their inquiries
+as to the numbers of the people of the United States, he assured
+them that they were as countless as the blades of grass in the
+prairies, and that, great as Snake River was, if they were all
+encamped upon its banks, they would drink it dry in a single day.
+To these and similar statistics, they listened with profound
+attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was, indeed, a
+striking scene: the captain, with his hunter's dress and bald
+head in the midst, holding forth, and his wild auditors seated
+around like so many statues, the fire lighting up their painted
+faces and muscular figures, all fixed and motionless, excepting
+when the pipe was passed, a question propounded, or a startling
+fact in statistics received with a movement of surprise and a
+half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and delight.
+
+The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied
+him to this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now
+entreated him to exert his skill on his daughter, who had been
+for three days racked with pains, for which the Pierced-nose
+doctors could devise no alleviation. The captain found her
+extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain. Her father
+manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and assured
+the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the
+Americans near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such
+inducement. His kind heart was already touched by the sufferings
+of the poor girl, and his sympathies quickened by her appearance;
+for she was but about sixteen years of age, and uncommonly
+beautiful in form and feature. The only difficulty with the
+captain was, that he knew nothing of her malady, and that his
+medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After considering
+and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when in a
+maze of vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his
+directions, the girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath,
+much used by the Nez Perces, where she was kept until near
+fainting. He then gave her a dose of gunpowder dissolved in cold
+water, and ordered her to be wrapped in buffalo robes and put to
+sleep under a load of furs and blankets. The remedy succeeded:
+the next morning she was free from pain, though extremely
+languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a bowl of
+colt's head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on
+simple diet.
+
+The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for
+the recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the
+captain a long time as his guest, but the time for departure had
+arrived. When the captain's horse was brought for him to mount,
+the chief declared that the steed was not worthy of him, and sent
+for one of his best horses, which he presented in its stead;
+declaring that it made his heart glad to see his friend so well
+mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce to accompany his
+guest to the next village, and "to carry his talk" concerning
+them; and the two parties separated with mutual expressions of
+good will.
+
+The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use
+among the Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their
+sweating houses, as they call them, are small and close lodges,
+and the vapor is produced by water poured slowly upon red-hot
+stones.
+
+On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut's domains, the travellers
+left the elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic
+scenery which has just been described. They now traversed a
+gently undulating country, of such fertility that it excited the
+rapturous admiration of two of the captain's followers, a
+Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared that it surpassed
+any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed what a
+delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and
+teeming soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the
+share.
+
+Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a
+chief named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were
+observed and hospitality experienced, as at the preceding
+villages. They now pursued a west-southwest course through a
+beautiful and fertile region, better wooded than most of the
+tracts through which they had passed. In their progress, they met
+with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were invariably
+treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after leaving
+the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at
+Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834.
+
+
+
+                              34.
+                                
+        Fort Wallah-Wallah Its commander Indians in its
+        neighborhood Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their
+    improvement Religion Code of laws Range of the Lower Nez
+Perces Camash, and other roots  Nez Perce horses Preparations for
+ departure  Refusal of supplies Departure A laggard and glutton
+
+FORT WALLAH - WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, situated just above the mouth of the river by the same
+name, and on the left bank of the Columbia. It is built of
+drift-wood, and calculated merely for defence against any attack
+of the natives. At the time of Captain Bonneville's arrival, the
+whole garrison mustered but six or eight men; and the post was
+under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune, an agent of the
+Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of
+its trade on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the
+right bank of the Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and
+just above the mouth of the Wallamut. To this point, the company
+removed its establishment from Astoria, in 1821, after its
+coalition with the Northwest Company.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite
+reception from Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however
+hostile the members of the British Company may be to the
+enterprises of American traders, they have always manifested
+great courtesy and hospitality to the traders themselves.
+
+Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name,
+as well as by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the
+furs and peltries collected in their hunting expeditions. The
+Wallah-Wallahs are a degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces
+are the most numerous and tractable of the three tribes just
+mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed Captain Bonneville that he had
+been at some pains to introduce the Christian religion, in the
+Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had evidently taken
+root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their peculiar
+habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however, the
+principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality.
+The same gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they
+conformed with scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once
+prevailed among them to a great extent, was now rarely indulged.
+All the crimes denounced by the Christian faith met with severe
+punishment among them. Even theft, so venial a crime among the
+Indians, had recently been punished with hanging, by sentence of
+a chief.
+
+There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral
+and religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem
+to be one of the very, very few that have benefited in morals and
+manners by an intercourse with white men. The parties which
+visited them about twenty years previously, in the expedition
+fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained of their selfishness, their
+extortion, and their thievish propensities. The very reverse of
+those qualities prevailed among them during the prolonged
+sojourns of Captain Bonneville.
+
+The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah,
+Yenghies, and other of the streams west of the mountains. They
+hunt the beaver, elk, deer, white bear, and mountain sheep.
+Besides the flesh of these animals, they use a number of roots
+for food; some of which would be well worth transplanting and
+cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among these is the camash, a
+sweet root, about the form and size of an onion, and said to be
+really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root, about the
+size of a walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour;
+together with the jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they
+cook by steaming them in the ground.
+
+In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers,
+where they catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while
+they last, are their principal food. In the winter, they
+congregate in villages formed of comfortable huts, or lodges,
+covered with mats. They are generally clad in deer skins, or
+woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all, they are
+celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark,
+and then suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains.
+These horses are principally of the pony breed; but remarkably
+stout and long-winded. They are brought in great numbers to the
+establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company, and sold for a mere
+trifle.
+
+Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez
+Perces; who, if not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are
+certainly among the gentlest, and least barbarous people of these
+remote wildernesses. They invariably signified to him their
+earnest wish that an American post might be established among
+them; and repeatedly declared that they would trade with
+Americans, in preference to any other people.
+
+Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this
+neighborhood, to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to
+collect information, and establish connections that might be
+advantageous in the way of trade. The delays, however, which he
+had experienced on his journey, obliged him to shorten his
+sojourn, and to set off as soon as possible, so as to reach the
+rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed time. He had seen
+enough to convince him that an American trade might be carried on
+with advantage in this quarter; and he determined soon to return
+with a stronger party, more completely fitted for the purpose.
+
+As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied
+to purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference
+between being treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The
+worthy superintendent, who had extended to him all the genial
+rites of hospitality, now suddenly assumed a withered-up aspect
+and demeanor, and observed that, however he might feel disposed
+to serve him, personally, he felt bound by his duty to the
+Hudson's Bay Company, to do nothing which should facilitate or
+encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that
+part of the country. He endeavored to dissuade Captain Bonneville
+from returning through the Blue Mountains; assuring him it would
+be extremely difficult and dangerous, if not impracticable, at
+this season of the year; and advised him to accompany Mr.
+Payette, a leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was about to
+depart with a number of men, by a more circuitous, but safe
+route, to carry supplies to the company's agent, resident among
+the Upper Nez Perces. Captain Bonneville, however, piqued at his
+having refused to furnish him with supplies, and doubting the
+sincerity of his advice, determined to return by the more direct
+route through the mountains; though varying his course, in some
+respects, from that by which he had come, in consequence of
+information gathered among the neighboring Indians.
+
+Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions,
+accompanied by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return.
+In the early part of their course, they touched again at several
+of the Nez Perce villages, where they had experienced such kind
+treatment on their way down. They were always welcomed with
+cordiality; and everything was done to cheer them on their
+journey.
+
+On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez
+Perce, whose society was welcomed on account of the general
+gratitude and good will they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a
+heavy clog upon the little party, being doltish and taciturn,
+lazy in the extreme, and a huge feeder. His only proof of
+intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all labor, and availing
+himself of the toil of others. When on the march, he always
+lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking a
+way through all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and
+lazily jogging along the track, which they had beaten through the
+snow. At the evening encampment, when others were busy gathering
+fuel, providing for the horses, and cooking the evening repast,
+this worthy Sancho of the wilderness would take his seat quietly
+and cosily by the fire, puffing away at his pipe, and eyeing in
+silence, but with wistful intensity of gaze, the savory morsels
+roasting for supper.
+
+When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of
+activity. He no longer hung back, and waited for others to take
+the lead, but distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and
+a sustained vigor and duration of attack, that completely shamed
+the efforts of his competitors--albeit, experienced trenchermen
+of no mean prowess. Never had they witnessed such power of
+mastication, and such marvellous capacity of stomach, as in this
+native and uncultivated gastronome. Having, by repeated and
+prolonged assaults, at length completely gorged himself, he would
+wrap himself up and lie with the torpor of an anaconda; slowly
+digesting his way on to the next repast.
+
+The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of
+surprise and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became
+too serious for a joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots;
+and he was regarded askance, at his meals, as a regular
+kill-crop, destined to waste the substance of the party. Nothing
+but a sense of the obligations they were under to his nation
+induced them to bear with such a guest; but he proceeded,
+speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these obligations,
+by eating a receipt in full.
+
+
+
+                              35. 
+                                
+   The uninvited guest Free and easy manners Salutary jokes A
+      prodigal son Exit of the glutton  A sudden change in
+   fortune Danger of a visit to poor relations Plucking of a
+prosperous man A vagabond toilet A substitute for the very fine
+ horse Hard travelling The uninvited guest and the patriarchal
+   colt A beggar on horseback A catastrophe Exit of the merry
+                            vagabond
+
+As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among
+the hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a
+hearty supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an
+uninvited guest. He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed
+with bow and arrows, and had the carcass of a fine buck thrown
+across his shoulder. Advancing with an alert step, and free and
+easy air, he threw the buck on the ground, and, without waiting
+for an invitation, seated himself at their mess, helped himself
+without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left in the
+liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran
+dinner hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more
+knowingly. The travellers were at first completely taken by
+surprise, and could not but admire the facility with which this
+ragged cosmopolite made himself at home among them. While they
+stared he went on, making the most of the good cheer upon which
+he had so fortunately alighted; and was soon elbow deep in "pot
+luck," and greased from the tip of his nose to the back of his
+ears.
+
+As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel
+annoyed at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the
+generality of his tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and
+they had no relish for such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an
+abundant portion of the "provant" upon a piece of bark, which
+served for a dish, they invited him to confine himself thereto,
+instead of foraging in the general mess.
+
+He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and
+went on eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself,
+until his whole countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In
+the course of his repast, his attention was caught by the figure
+of the gastronome, who, as usual, was gorging himself in dogged
+silence. A droll cut of the eye showed either that he knew him of
+old, or perceived at once his characteristics. He immediately
+made him the butt of his pleasantries; and cracked off two or
+three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt to prick up his
+ears, and delighted all the company. From this time, the
+uninvited guest was taken into favor; his jokes began to be
+relished; his careless, free and easy air, to be considered
+singularly amusing; and in the end, he was pronounced by the
+travellers one of the merriest companions and most entertaining
+vagabonds they had met with in the wilderness.
+
+Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such
+was the simple name by which he announced himself, declared his
+intention of keeping company with the party for a day or two, if
+they had no objection; and by way of backing his self-invitation,
+presented the carcass of the buck as an earnest of his hunting
+abilities. By this time, he had so completely effaced the
+unfavorable impression made by his first appearance, that he was
+made welcome to the camp, and the Nez Perce guide undertook to
+give him lodging for the night. The next morning, at break of
+day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the hills, nor was
+anything more seen of him until a few minutes after the party had
+encamped for the evening, when he again made his appearance, in
+his usual frank, careless manner, and threw down the carcass of
+another noble deer, which he had borne on his back for a
+considerable distance.
+
+This evening he was the life of the party, and his open
+communicative disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them
+in possession of his history. He had been a kind of prodigal son
+in his native village; living a loose, heedless life, and
+disregarding the precepts and imperative commands of the chiefs.
+He had, in consequence, been expelled from the village, but, in
+nowise disheartened at this banishment, had betaken himself to
+the society of the border Indians, and had led a careless,
+haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors;
+heedless of the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the
+present; and fearing no lack of food, so long as he had the
+implements of the chase, and a fair hunting ground.
+
+Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his
+eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain
+Bonneville fitted him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party,
+who all soon became quite attached to him. One of the earliest
+and most signal services he performed, was to exorcise the
+insatiate kill-crop that hitherto oppressed the party. In fact,
+the doltish Nez Perce, who had seemed so perfectly insensible to
+rough treatment of every kind, by which the travellers had
+endeavored to elbow him out of their society, could not withstand
+the good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp wit of
+She-wee-she. He evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat
+blinking like an owl in daylight, when pestered by the flouts and
+peckings of mischievous birds. At length his place was found
+vacant at meal-time; no one knew when he went off, or whither he
+had gone, but he was seen no more, and the vast surplus that
+remained when the repast was over, showed what a mighty
+gormandizer had departed.
+
+Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on
+cheerily. She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His
+hunting was always successful; he was ever ready to render any
+assistance in the camp or on the march; while his jokes, his
+antics, and the very cut of his countenance, so full of whim and
+comicality, kept every one in good-humor.
+
+In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of
+the Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here
+She-wee-she took a sudden notion to visit his people, and show
+off the state of worldly prosperity to which he had so suddenly
+attained. He accordingly departed in the morning, arrayed in
+hunter's style, and well appointed with everything benefitting
+his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the elasticity of his
+step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that he
+anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was
+about to give those who had ejected him from their society in
+rags. But what a change was there in his whole appearance when he
+rejoined the party in the evening! He came skulking into camp
+like a beaten cur, with his tail between his legs. All his finery
+was gone; he was naked as when he was born, with the exception of
+a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a fig leaf. His
+fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed it to
+be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they
+recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she,
+whom they had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and
+high feather, they could not contain their merriment, but hailed
+him with loud and repeated peals of laughter.
+
+She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon
+joined in the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to
+consider his reverse of fortune an excellent joke. Captain
+Bonneville, however, thought proper to check his good-humor, and
+demanded, with some degree of sternness, the cause of his altered
+condition. He replied in the most natural and self-complacent
+style imaginable, "that he had been among his cousins, who were
+very poor; they had been delighted to see him; still more
+delighted with his good fortune; they had taken him to their
+arms; admired his equipments; one had begged for this; another
+for that"--in fine, what with the poor devil's inherent
+heedlessness, and the real generosity of his disposition, his
+needy cousins had succeeded in stripping him of all his clothes
+and accoutrements, excepting the fig leaf with which he had
+returned to camp.
+
+Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville
+determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a
+salutary lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents
+while in the neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left,
+therefore, to shift for himself in his naked condition; which,
+however, did not seem to give him any concern, or to abate one
+jot of his good-humor. In the course of his lounging about the
+camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin; whereupon,
+cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, so
+that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a
+South American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he
+tied together, under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented
+himself once more before the captain, with an air of perfect
+self-satisfaction, as though he thought it impossible for any
+fault to be found with his toilet.
+
+A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty
+village of Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate
+old patriarch who had made Captain Bonneville the costly present
+of the very fine horse. The old man welcomed them once more to
+his village with his usual cordiality, and his respectable squaw
+and hopeful son, cherishing grateful recollections of the hatchet
+and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus of friendly gratulation.
+
+As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this
+interesting family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and
+totally inadequate to the mountain scramble that lay ahead,
+Captain Bonneville restored him to the venerable patriarch, with
+renewed acknowledgments for the invaluable gift. Somewhat to his
+surprise, he was immediately supplied with a fine two years' old
+colt in his stead, a substitution which he afterward learnt,
+according to Indian custom in such cases, he might have claimed
+as a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims were
+made on account of this colt. This donation may be regarded,
+therefore, as a signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be
+found that the animal soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the
+party.
+
+While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations
+with some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party
+were about to traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect,
+and to indulge in gloomy forebodings. The snow, he had been told,
+lay to a great depth in the passes of the mountains, and
+difficulties would increase as he proceeded. He begged Captain
+Bonneville, therefore, to travel very slowly, so as to keep the
+horses in strength and spirit for the hard times they would have
+to encounter. The captain surrendered the regulation of the march
+entirely to his discretion, and pushed on in the advance, amusing
+himself with hunting, so as generally to kill a deer or two in
+the course of the day, and arriving, before the rest of the
+party, at the spot designated by the guide for the evening's
+encampment.
+
+In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide,
+accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive
+garb worn by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the
+biting blasts of the mountains. Still his wit was never frozen,
+nor his sunshiny temper beclouded; and his innumerable antics and
+practical jokes, while they quickened the circulation of his own
+blood, kept his companions in high good-humor.
+
+So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch's.
+The second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the
+advance, the rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she,
+for the greater part of the time, trudged on foot over the snow,
+keeping himself warm by hard exercise, and all kinds of crazy
+capers. In the height of his foolery, the patriarchal colt,
+which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to follow on at
+large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he was on
+his back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The
+colt, unused to such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to
+prancing and rearing and snorting and plunging and kicking; and,
+at length, set off full speed over the most dangerous ground. As
+the route led generally along the steep and craggy sides of the
+hills, both horse and horseman were constantly in danger, and
+more than once had a hairbreadth escape from deadly peril.
+Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap savage. He stuck to the
+colt like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down gullies; whooping and
+yelling with the wildest glee. Never did beggar on horseback
+display more headlong horsemanship. His companions followed him
+with their eyes, sometimes laughing, sometimes holding in their
+breath at his vagaries, until they saw the colt make a sudden
+plunge or start, and pitch his unlucky rider headlong over a
+precipice. There was a general cry of horror, and all hastened to
+the spot. They found the poor fellow lying among the rocks below,
+sadly bruised and mangled. It was almost a miracle that he had
+escaped with life. Even in this condition, his merry spirit was
+not entirely quelled, and he summoned up a feeble laugh at the
+alarm and anxiety of those who came to his relief. He was
+extricated from his rocky bed, and a messenger dispatched to
+inform Captain Bonneville of the accident. The latter returned
+with all speed, and encamped the party at the first convenient
+spot. Here the wounded man was stretched upon buffalo skins, and
+the captain, who officiated on all occasions as doctor and
+surgeon to the party, proceeded to examine his wounds. The
+principal one was a long and deep gash in the thigh, which
+reached to the bone. Calling for a needle and thread, the captain
+now prepared to sew up the wound, admonishing the patient to
+submit to the operation with becoming fortitude. His gayety was
+at an end; he could no longer summon up even a forced smile; and,
+at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so piteously, that
+the captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a powerful
+dose of alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed
+his heart; all the time of the operation, however, he kept his
+eyes riveted on the wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical
+wincing of the countenance, that occasionally gave his nose
+something of its usual comic curl.
+
+When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum,
+and administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who
+was tucked in for the night, and advised to compose himself to
+sleep. He was restless and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing
+his fears that his leg would be so much swollen the next day, as
+to prevent his proceeding with the party; nor could he be
+quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion favorable to
+his wishes.
+
+Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on
+finding that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions.
+On attempting to use it, however, he found himself unable to
+stand. He made several efforts to coax himself into a belief that
+he might still continue forward; but at length, shook his head
+despondingly, and said, that "as he had but one leg," it was all
+in vain to attempt a passage of the mountain.
+
+Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under
+such disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and
+equipped, each one making him some parting present. He was then
+helped on a horse, which Captain Bonneville presented to him; and
+after many parting expressions of good will on both sides, set
+off on his return to his old haunts; doubtless, to be once more
+plucked by his affectionate but needy cousins.
+
+
+
+                              36. 
+                                
+ The difficult mountain A smoke and consultation The captain's
+speech An icy turnpike  Danger of a false step  Arrival on Snake
+         River  Return to Portneuf  Meeting of comrades
+
+CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the
+travellers found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow
+increased in quantity, so as to lie two feet deep. They were
+again obliged, therefore, to beat down a path for their horses,
+sometimes travelling on the icy surface of the stream. At length
+they reached the place where they intended to scale the
+mountains; and, having broken a pathway to the foot, were
+agreeably surprised to find that the wind had drifted the snow
+from off the side, so that they attained the summit with but
+little difficulty. Here they encamped, with the intention of
+beating a track through the mountains. A short experiment,
+however, obliged them to give up the attempt, the snow lying in
+vast drifts, often higher than the horses' heads.
+
+Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to
+reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which
+overtopped the rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the
+summit a pass about nine miles long, but so heavily piled with
+snow, that it seemed impracticable. He now lit a pipe, and,
+sitting down with the two guides, proceeded to hold a
+consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while they all
+smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject
+matter before them. At length a discussion commenced, and the
+opinion in which the two guides concurred was, that the horses
+could not possibly cross the snows. They advised, therefore, that
+the party should proceed on foot, and they should take the horses
+back to the village, where they would be well taken care of until
+Captain Bonneville should send for them. They urged this advice
+with great earnestness; declaring that their chief would be
+extremely angry, and treat them severely, should any of the
+horses of his good friends, the white men, be lost, in crossing
+under their guidance; and that, therefore, it was good they
+should not attempt it.
+
+Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them
+with Indian silence and gravity. When they had finished, he
+replied to them in their own style of language.
+
+"My friends," said he, "I have seen the pass, and have listened
+to your words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers
+lie in your way, you turn your backs. That is not the way with my
+nation. When great obstacles present, and threaten to keep them
+back, their hearts swell, and they push forward. They love to
+conquer difficulties. But enough for the present. Night is coming
+on; let us return to our camp."
+
+He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp,
+he found the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had
+been surveying the neighborhood, and seriously assured them that
+the snow was at least a hundred feet deep. The captain cheered
+them up, and diffused fresh spirit in them by his example. Still
+he was much perplexed how to proceed. About dark there was a
+slight drizzling rain. An expedient now suggested itself. This
+was to make two light sleds, place the packs on them, and drag
+them to the other side of the mountain, thus forming a road in
+the wet snow, which, should it afterward freeze, would be
+sufficiently hard to bear the horses. This plan was promptly put
+into execution; the sleds were constructed, the heavy baggage was
+drawn backward and forward until the road was beaten, when they
+desisted from their fatiguing labor. The night turned out clear
+and cold, and by morning, their road was incrusted with ice
+sufficiently strong for their purpose. They now set out on their
+icy turnpike, and got on well enough, excepting that now and then
+a horse would sidle out of the track, and immediately sink up to
+the neck. Then came on toil and difficulty, and they would be
+obliged to haul up the floundering animal with ropes. One, more
+unlucky than the rest, after repeated falls, had to be abandoned
+in the snow. Notwithstanding these repeated delays, they
+succeeded, before the sun had acquired sufficient power to thaw
+the snow, in getting all the rest of their horses safely to the
+other side of the mountain.
+
+Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end.
+They had now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was
+glazed with ice. It was necessary; therefore, to wait until the
+warmth of the sun should melt the glassy crust of sleet, and give
+them a foothold in the yielding snow. They had a frightful
+warning of the danger of any movement while the sleet remained. A
+wild young mare, in her restlessness, strayed to the edge of a
+declivity. One slip was fatal to her; she lost her balance,
+careered with headlong velocity down the slippery side of the
+mountain for more than two thousand feet, and was dashed to
+pieces at the bottom. When the travellers afterward sought the
+carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and mangled in
+the most horrible manner.
+
+It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to
+the ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs
+below them to prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the
+night. The next day they succeeded in bringing down their baggage
+to the encampment; then packing all up regularly, and loading
+their horses, they once more set out briskly and cheerfully, and
+in the course of the following day succeeded in getting to a
+grassy region.
+
+Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of
+the mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and
+simple, and needed no further guidance; they asked leave,
+therefore, to return home. This was readily granted, with many
+thanks and presents for their faithful services. They took a long
+farewell smoke with their white friends, after which they mounted
+their horses and set off, exchanging many farewells and kind
+wishes.
+
+On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey
+down the mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River,
+where he found the grass in great abundance and eight inches in
+height. In this neighborhood, he saw on the rocky banks of the
+river several prismoids of basaltes, rising to the height of
+fifty or sixty feet.
+
+Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days
+as the party proceeded up along Snake River and across its
+tributary streams. After crossing Gun Creek, they met with
+various signs that white people were in the neighborhood, and
+Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions to discover whether
+they were any of his own people, that he might join them. He soon
+ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract of
+country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region,
+whither he now shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake
+River, he found small hordes of Shoshonies lingering upon the
+minor streams, and living upon trout and other fish, which they
+catch in great numbers at this season in fish-traps. The greater
+part of the tribe, however, had penetrated the mountains to hunt
+the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn.
+
+On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf
+River, in the vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment
+of his company on the preceding Christmas day. He had then
+expected to be back by the beginning of March, but circumstances
+had detained him upward of two months beyond the time, and the
+winter encampment must long ere this have been broken up. Halting
+on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched scouts a few miles
+above, to visit the old camping ground and search for signals of
+the party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually have
+abandoned the spot. They returned without being able to ascertain
+anything.
+
+Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it
+necessary to make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They
+made caches, therefore, on an island in the river, in which they
+deposited all their baggage, and then set out on their
+expedition. They were so fortunate as to kill a couple of fine
+bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined to husband this
+stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest they should
+again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous hunting
+grounds. Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they found
+that the wolves had been at the caches, scratched up the
+contents, and scattered them in every direction. They now
+constructed a more secure one, in which they deposited their
+heaviest articles, and then descended Snake River again, and
+encamped just above the American Falls. Here they proceeded to
+fortify themselves, intending to remain here, and give their
+horses an opportunity to recruit their strength with good
+pasturage, until it should be time to set out for the annual
+rendezvous in Bear River valley.
+
+On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of
+the river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their
+attention by a discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that
+they were some of their own people. From these men Captain
+Bonneville learned that the whole party which he had left in the
+preceding month of December were encamped on Blackfoot River, a
+tributary of Snake River, not very far above the Portneuf.
+Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch, and in a little
+while had the pleasure of finding himself once more surrounded by
+his people, who greeted his return among them in the heartiest
+manner; for his long-protracted absence had convinced them that
+he and his three companions had been cut off by some hostile
+tribe.
+
+The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been
+pinched by famine and almost starved, and had been forced to
+repair to the caches at Salmon River. Here they fell in with the
+Blackfeet bands, and considered themselves fortunate in being
+able to retreat from the dangerous neighborhood without
+sustaining any loss.
+
+Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to
+his men was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given
+up to such feasting and merriment as their means and situation
+afforded. What was wanting in good cheer was made up in good
+will; the free trappers in particular, distinguished themselves
+on the occasion, and the saturnalia was enjoyed with a hearty
+holiday spirit, that smacked of the game flavor of the
+wilderness.
+
+
+
+                              37. 
+                                
+  Departure for the rendezvous A war party of Blackfeet A mock
+bustle Sham fires at night Warlike precautions Dangers of a night
+ attack  A panic among horses Cautious march The Beer Springs A
+mock carousel Skirmishing with buffaloes A buffalo bait Arrival
+          at the rendezvous  Meeting of various bands
+
+AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville
+broke up the encampment, and set out with his motley crew of
+hired and free trappers, half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for
+the main rendezvous in Bear River valley. Directing his course up
+the Blackfoot River, he soon reached the hills among which it
+takes its rise. Here, while on the march, he descried from the
+brow of a hill, a war party of about sixty Blackfeet, on the
+plain immediately below him. His situation was perilous; for the
+greater part of his people were dispersed in various directions.
+Still, to betray hesitation or fear would be to discover his
+actual weakness, and to invite attack. He assumed, instantly,
+therefore, a belligerent tone; ordered the squaws to lead the
+horses to a small grove of ashen trees, and unload and tie them;
+and caused a great bustle to be made by his scanty handful; the
+leaders riding hither and thither, and vociferating with all
+their might, as if a numerous force was getting under way for an
+attack.
+
+To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a
+number of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a
+vigilant watch. His men were all directed to keep themselves
+prepared for instant action. In such cases the experienced
+trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle beside him, the
+shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in case of
+alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at
+once, and start up, completely armed.
+
+Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the
+horses, and set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the
+great object and principal danger of a night attack. The grand
+move of the lurking savage is to cause a panic among the horses.
+In such cases one horse frightens another, until all are alarmed,
+and struggle to break loose. In camps where there are great
+numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night alarm of the kind
+is tremendous. The running of the horses that have broken loose;
+the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain fast;
+the howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of
+white men, and red men, with their guns; the overturning of
+lodges, and trampling of fires by the horses; the flashes of the
+fires, lighting up forms of men and steeds dashing through the
+gloom, altogether make up one of the wildest scenes of confusion
+imaginable. In this way, sometimes, all the horses of a camp
+amounting to several hundred will be frightened off in a single
+night.
+
+The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no
+likelihood that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a
+camp where there was a chance for spoils, would fail to hover
+round it. The captain, therefore, continued to maintain the most
+vigilant precautions; throwing out scouts in the advance, and on
+every rising ground.
+
+In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay,
+already mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer
+Springs, by the trappers.  Here the men all halted to have a
+regale.  In a few moments every spring had its jovial knot of
+hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand, indulging in a mock carouse;
+quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying jokes, singing drinking
+songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it seemed as if
+their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and cheated
+them into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of the
+moment, they were loud and extravagant in their commendations of
+"the mountain tap"; elevating it above every beverage produced
+from hops or malt. It was a singular and fantastic scene; suited
+to a region where everything is strange and peculiar:--These
+groups of trappers, and hunters, and Indians, with their wild
+costumes, and wilder countenances; their boisterous gayety, and
+reckless air; quaffing, and making merry round these sparkling
+fountains; while beside them lay their weep ons, ready to be
+snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of
+representing banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels;
+but here were groups, still more rude and picturesque; and it
+needed but a sudden onset of Blackfeet, and a quick transition
+from a fantastic revel to a furious melee, to have rendered this
+picture of a trapper's life complete.
+
+The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward
+circumstance; and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither
+headache nor heartache behind. Captain Bonneville now directed
+his course up along Bear River; amusing himself, occasionally,
+with hunting the buffalo, with which the country was covered.
+Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his repose in a
+prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon him;
+then rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a
+shot at him as he started up. Such is the quickness with which
+this animal springs upon his legs, that it is not easy to
+discover the muscular process by which it is effected. The horse
+rises first upon his fore legs; and the domestic cow, upon her
+hinder limbs; but the buffalo bounds at once from a couchant to
+an erect position, with a celerity that baffles the eye. Though
+from his bulk, and rolling gait, he does not appear to run with
+much swiftness; yet, it takes a stanch horse to overtake him,
+when at full speed on level ground; and a buffalo cow is still
+fleeter in her motion.
+
+Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several
+admirable horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a
+grotesque kind of buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull
+in the plains, they prepared for their teasing and barbarous
+sport. Surrounding him on horseback, they would discharge their
+arrows at him in quick succession, goading him to make an attack;
+which, with a dexterous movement of the horse, they would easily
+avoid. In this way, they hovered round him, feathering him with
+arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was bristled all
+over like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs of
+exhaustion, and he could no longer be provoked to make battle,
+they would dismount from their horses, approach him in the rear,
+and seizing him by the tail, jerk him from side to side, and drag
+him backward; until the frantic animal, gathering fresh strength
+from fury, would break from them, and rush, with flashing eyes
+and a hoarse bellowing, upon any enemy in sight; but in a little
+while, his transient excitement at an end, would pitch headlong
+on the ground, and expire. The arrows were then plucked forth,
+the tongue cut out and preserved as a dainty, and the carcass
+left a banquet for the wolves.
+
+Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on
+the 13th of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for
+four or five days, that he might examine its shores and outlets.
+The latter, he found extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps
+and quagmires, that he was obliged to construct canoes of rushes,
+with which to explore them. The mouths of all the streams which
+fall into this lake from the west, are marshy and inconsiderable;
+but on the east side, there is a beautiful beach, broken,
+occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs, which advance upon the
+lake, and heighten the character of the scenery. The water is
+very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish.
+
+Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville
+proceeded on his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River,
+some distance higher up, he came upon the party which he had
+detached a year before, to circumambulate the Great Salt Lake,
+and ascertain its extent, and the nature of its shores. They had
+been encamped here about twenty days; and were greatly rejoiced
+at meeting once more with their comrades, from whom they had so
+long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain Bonneville was
+about the result of their journey, and the information they had
+procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense
+curiosity and ambition. The substance of their report will be
+found in the following chapter.
+
+
+
+                              38. 
+                                
+Plan of the Salt Lake expedition Great sandy deserts Sufferings
+     from thirst Ogden's River  Trails and smoke of lurking
+savages Thefts at night  A trapper's revenge Alarms of a guilty
+  conscience  A murderous victory Californian mountains Plains
+ along the Pacific Arrival at Monterey Account of the place and
+         neighborhood Lower California  Its extent The
+   Peninsula Soil Climate  Production Its settlements by the
+ Jesuits Their sway over the Indians Their expulsion Ruins of a
+         missionary establishment Sublime scenery Upper
+  California Missions Their power and policy  Resources of the
+               country Designs of foreign nations
+
+IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that
+the brigade of forty men set out from Green River valley, to
+explore the Great Salt Lake.  They were to make the complete
+circuit of it, trapping on all the streams which should fall in
+their way, and to keep journals and make charts, calculated to
+impart a knowledge of the lake and the surrounding country. All
+the resources of Captain Bonneville had been tasked to fit out
+this favorite expedition. The country lying to the southwest of
+the mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet almost
+unknown; being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed by
+the trapper, who preferred those parts of the wilderness where
+the roaming herds of that species of animal gave him
+comparatively an abundant and luxurious life. Still it was said
+the deer, the elk, and the bighorn were to be found there, so
+that, with a little diligence and economy, there was no danger of
+lacking food. As a precaution, however, the party halted on Bear
+River and hunted for a few days, until they had laid in a supply
+of dried buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by the head
+waters of the Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched on
+an immense sandy desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld
+the Great Salt Lake, spread out like a sea, but they found no
+stream running into it. A desert extended around them, and
+stretched to the southwest, as far as the eye could reach,
+rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa in sterility. There was
+neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, nor running
+stream, nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and rider
+were in danger of perishing.
+
+Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned
+their intended course, and made towards a range of snowy
+mountains, brightening in the north, where they hoped to find
+water. After a time, they came upon a small stream leading
+directly towards these mountains. Having quenched their burning
+thirst, and refreshed themselves and their weary horses for a
+time, they kept along this stream, which gradually increased in
+size, being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the
+mountains, it took a sweep toward the southwest, and the
+travellers still kept along it, trapping beaver as they went, on
+the flesh of which they subsisted for the present, husbanding
+their dried meat for future necessities.
+
+The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary
+River, but is more generally known as Ogden's River, from Mr.
+Peter Ogden, an enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson's
+Bay Company, who first explored it. The wild and half-desert
+region through which the travellers were passing, is wandered
+over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, the forlorn branch
+of the Snake tribe. They are a shy people, prone to keep aloof
+from the stranger. The travellers frequently met with their
+trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in various parts
+of the vast landscape, so that they knew there were great numbers
+in the neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be met
+with.
+
+After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the
+Shoshokoes were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp
+was dogged by these eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various
+articles were missing, yet nothing could be seen of the
+marauders. What particularly exasperated the hunters, was to have
+their traps stolen from the streams. One morning, a trapper of a
+violent and savage character, discovering that his traps had been
+carried off in the night, took a horrid oath to kill the first
+Indian he should meet, innocent or guilty. As he was returning
+with his comrades to camp, he beheld two unfortunate Diggers,
+seated on the river bank, fishing. Advancing upon them, he
+levelled his rifle, shot one upon the spot, and flung his
+bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled and was
+suffered to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of
+violence are regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an
+armed ruffian enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the
+only punishment this desperado met with, was a rebuke from the
+leader of the party. The trappers now left the scene of this
+infamous tragedy, and kept on westward, down the course of the
+river, which wound along with a range of mountains on the right
+hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain, on the left. As
+they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising, as before,
+in various directions, which their guilty consciences now
+converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect
+the scattered bands for vengeance.
+
+After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and
+sometimes in considerable numbers, but always pacific; the
+trappers, however, suspected them of deep-laid plans to draw them
+into ambuscades; to crowd into and get possession of their camp,
+and various other crafty and daring conspiracies, which, it is
+probable, never entered into the heads of the poor savages. In
+fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive race, unpractised in
+warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons, excepting for the
+chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains and along
+the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other
+times on roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat's-tail.
+They are of the same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found
+upon Snake River, and whom he found so mild and inoffensive.
+
+The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were
+making their way through a hostile country, and that implacable
+foes hung round their camp or beset their path, watching for an
+opportunity to surprise them. At length, one day they came to the
+banks of a stream emptying into Ogden's River, which they were
+obliged to ford. Here a great number of Shoshokoes were posted on
+the opposite bank. Persuaded they were there with hostile intent,
+they advanced upon them, levelled their rifles, and killed twenty
+five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to a short distance,
+then halted and turned about, howling and whining like wolves,
+and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them
+in every direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled
+with terror; neither does it appear from the accounts of the
+boasted victors, that a weapon had been wielded or a weapon
+launched by the Indians throughout the affair. We feel perfectly
+convinced that the poor savages had no hostile intention, but had
+merely gathered together through motives of curiosity, as others
+of their tribe had done when Captain Bonneville and his
+companions passed along Snake River.
+
+The trappers continued down Ogden's River, until they ascertained
+that it lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no
+apparent discharge. They then struck directly westward, across
+the great chain of California mountains intervening between these
+interior plains and the shores of the Pacific.
+
+For three and twenty days they were entangled among these
+mountains, the peaks and ridges of which are in many places
+covered with perpetual snow. Their passes and defiles present the
+wildest scenery, partaking of the sublime rather than the
+beautiful, and abounding with frightful precipices. The
+sufferings of the travellers among these savage mountains were
+extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved; at
+length, they made their way through them, and came down upon the
+plains of New California, a fertile region extending along the
+coast, with magnificent forests, verdant savannas, and prairies
+that looked like stately parks. Here they found deer and other
+game in abundance, and indemnified themselves for past famine.
+They now turned toward the south, and passing numerous small
+bands of natives, posted upon various streams, arrived at the
+Spanish village and post of Monterey.
+
+This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses,
+situated in latitude 37  north. It has a capacious bay, with
+indifferent anchorage. The surrounding country is extremely
+fertile, especially in the valleys; the soil is richer, the
+further you penetrate into the interior, and the climate is
+described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California,
+extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19  30' to 42 
+north, is represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful
+regions in North America.
+
+Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a
+great peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the
+torrid zone. It is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of
+California, sometimes called the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf
+empties the Colorado of the West, the Seeds-ke-dee, or Green
+River, as it is also sometimes called. The peninsula is traversed
+by stern and barren mountains, and has many sandy plains, where
+the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical cactus growing
+among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water, however,
+and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens
+everything into astonishing fertility. There are valleys
+luxuriant with the rich and beautiful productions of the tropics.
+There the sugar-cane and indigo plant attain a perfection
+unequalled in any other part of North America. There flourish the
+olive, the fig, the date, the orange, the citron, the
+pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the voluptuous
+climates of the south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a
+generous wine. In the interior are salt plains; silver mines and
+scanty veins of gold are said, likewise, to exist; and pearls of
+a beautiful water are to be fished upon the coast.
+
+The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits,
+who, certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have
+generally proved the most beneficent of colonists. In the present
+instance, they gained and maintained a footing in the country
+without the aid of military force, but solely by religious
+influence. They formed a treaty, and entered into the most
+amicable relations with the natives, then numbering from
+twenty-five to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold upon
+their affections, and a control over their minds, that effected a
+complete change in their condition. They built eleven missionary
+establishments in the various valleys of the peninsula, which
+formed rallying places for the surrounding savages, where they
+gathered together as sheep into the fold, and surrendered
+themselves and their consciences into the hands of these
+spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are told, could exceed the
+implicit and affectionate devotion of the Indian converts to the
+Jesuit fathers, and the Catholic faith was disseminated widely
+through the wilderness. The growing power and influence of the
+Jesuits in the New World at length excited the jealousy of the
+Spanish government, and they were banished from the colonies. The
+governor, who arrived at California to expel them, and to take
+charge of the country, expected to find a rich and powerful
+fraternity, with immense treasures hoarded in their missions, and
+an army of Indians ready to defend them. On the contrary, he
+beheld a few venerable silverhaired priests coming humbly forward
+to meet him, followed by a throng of weeping, but submissive
+natives. The heart of the governor, it is said, was so touched by
+this unexpected sight, that he shed tears; but he had to execute
+his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their
+embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners, who
+took leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the latter
+abandoned their heriditary abodes, and wandered off to join their
+southern brethren, so that but a remnant remained in the
+peninsula. The Franciscans immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and
+subsequently the Dominicans; but the latter managed their affairs
+ill. But two of the missionary establishments are at present
+occupied by priests; the rest are all in ruins, excepting one,
+which remains a monument of the former power and prosperity of
+the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the chief of
+the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley, about
+half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the
+peninsula being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of
+hewn stone, one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front,
+and about fifty-five feet deep. The walls are six feet thick, and
+sixteen feet high, with a vaulted roof of stone, about two feet
+and a half in thickness. It is now abandoned and desolate; the
+beautiful valley is without an inhabitant-- not a human being
+resides within thirty miles of the place!
+
+In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the
+traveller passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be
+the highest peak in the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a
+vast and magnificent prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of
+California, with the dark blue sea beyond, studded with islands;
+and in another direction, the immense lava plain of San Gabriel.
+The splendor of the climate gives an Italian effect to the
+immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, and the
+sunsets are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a
+slight and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
+
+Upper California extends from latitude 31  10' to 42  on the
+Pacific, and inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains
+which divide it from the sand plains of the interior. There are
+about twenty-one missions in this province, most of which were
+established about fifty years since, and are generally under the
+care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting sway over about
+thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who reside on the lands
+around the mission houses. Each of these houses has fifteen miles
+square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots,
+proportioned to the number of Indian converts attached to the
+mission. Some are enclosed with high walls; but in general they
+are open hamlets, composed of rows of huts, built of sunburnt
+bricks; in some instances whitewashed and roofed with tiles. Many
+of them are far in the interior, beyond the reach of all military
+protection, and dependent entirely on the good will of the
+natives, which never fails them. They have made considerable
+progress in teaching the Indians the useful arts. There are
+native tanners, shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters,
+and other artificers attached to each establishment. Others are
+taught husbandry, and the rearing of cattle and horses; while the
+females card and spin wool, weave, and perform the other duties
+allotted to their sex in civilized life. No social intercourse is
+allowed between the unmarried of the opposite sexes after working
+hours; and at night they are locked up in separate apartments,
+and the keys delivered to the priests.
+
+The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales,
+are entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not
+required for the support of the missions, goes to augment a fund
+which is under their control. Hides and tallow constitute the
+principal riches of the missions, and, indeed, the main commerce
+of the country. Grain might be produced to an unlimited extent at
+the establishments, were there a sufficient market for it. Olives
+and grapes are also reared at the missions.
+
+Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the
+former may be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they
+are of an inferior breed. Mules, which are here of a large size
+and of valuable qualities, cost from seven to ten dollars.
+
+There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego,
+San Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern
+port of Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest
+class. The port of San Francisco is too well known to require
+much notice in this place. The entrance from the sea is
+sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole navies might ride
+with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take their rise in
+mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run through
+a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves into
+the harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for
+ship-building. In a word, this favored port combines advantages
+which not only fit it for a grand naval depot, but almost render
+it capable of being made the dominant military post of these
+seas.
+
+Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country,
+the value of which is more and more attracting the attention of
+naval powers. The Russians have always a ship of war upon this
+station, and have already encroached upon the Californian
+boundaries, by taking possession of the port of Bondago, and
+fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys have likewise
+been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we have
+little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and,
+until recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess
+sources of wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous
+empire. Its inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its
+real riches; they have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint
+themselves with a vast interior that lies almost a terra
+incognita; nor have they the skill and industry to cultivate
+properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor to prosecute
+that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a country
+into profitable action.
+
+
+
+                              39. 
+                                
+Gay life at Monterey Mexican horsemen A bold dragoon Use of the
+    lasso Vaqueros Noosing a bear Fight between a bull and a
+  bear Departure from Monterey Indian horse stealers Outrages
+ committed by the travellers Indignation of Captain Bonneville 
+
+THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the
+inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and
+offered extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any
+mechanic art. When they went into the country, too, they were
+kindly treated by the priests at the missions; who are always
+hospitable to strangers, whatever may be their rank or religion.
+They had no lack of provisions; being permitted to kill as many
+as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze the
+country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the
+owners. They attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the
+purposes of their expedition; squandered away, freely, the
+property that did not belong to them; and, in a word, revelled in
+a perfect fool's paradise.
+
+What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the
+Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in
+this country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and
+halfbreeds of California spend the greater part of their time in
+the saddle. They are fearless riders; and their daring feats upon
+unbroken colts and wild horses, astonished our trappers; though
+accustomed to the bold riders of the prairies.
+
+A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the
+equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious
+caballero of Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is
+represented as arrayed in a round blue jacket, with red cuffs and
+collar; blue velvet breeches, unbuttoned at the knees to show his
+white stockings; bottinas of deer skin; a round-crowned
+Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel of his saddle,
+he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round the lock.
+He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries a
+bull's hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before
+and behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of
+Moorish fashion, and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by
+chains, jingle at his heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted,
+he considers himself the glory of California, and the terror of
+the universe.
+
+The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic];
+that is to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with
+which they are expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost
+entirely confined to Spanish America, is said to be of great
+antiquity; and to have come, originally, from the East. It was
+used, we are told, by a pastoral people of Persian descent; of
+whom eight thousand accompanied the army of Xerxes. By the
+Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of purposes; and
+among others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting, they cast
+the noose around a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The
+vaqueros, or Indian cattle drivers, have also learned the use of
+the laso from the Spaniards; and employ it to catch the half-wild
+cattle by throwing it round their horns.
+
+The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a
+favorite, though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a
+wild bull. For this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth
+to some wood, frequented by bears, and, depositing the carcass of
+a bullock, hide themselves in the vicinity. The bears are soon
+attracted by the bait. As soon as one, fit for their purpose,
+makes his appearance, they run out, and with the laso,
+dexterously noose him by either leg. After dragging him at full
+speed until he is fatigued, they secure him more effectually; and
+tying him on the carcass of the bullock, draw him in triumph to
+the scene of action. By this time, he is exasperated to such
+frenzy, that they are sometimes obliged to throw cold water on
+him, to moderate his fury; and dangerous would it be, for horse
+and rider, were he, while in this paroxysm, to break his bonds.
+
+A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and
+exasperated in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals
+are turned loose in the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal
+fight begins instantly; and always, at first, to the disadvantage
+of Bruin; fatigued, as he is, by his previous rough riding.
+Roused, at length, by the repeated goring of the bull, he seizes
+his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to this most
+sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony. In his
+heat and fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly
+clutched by the bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his
+huge antagonist; and then dispatches him without difficulty.
+
+Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with
+bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians
+being considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions.
+
+After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very
+edifying, but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this
+vagabond party set out with his comrades, on his return journey.
+Instead of retracing their steps through the mountains, they
+passed round their southern extremity, and, crossing a range of
+low hills, found themselves in the sandy plains south of Ogden's
+River; in traversing which, they again suffered, grievously, for
+want of water.
+
+In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of
+Mexicans in pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing
+horses. The savages of this part of California are represented as
+extremely poor, and armed only with stone-pointed arrows; it
+being the wise policy of the Spaniards not to furnish them with
+firearms. As they find it difficult, with their blunt shafts, to
+kill the wild game of the mountains, they occasionally supply
+themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish horses. Driving
+them stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they slaughter them
+without difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions. Some they
+carry off to trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the
+Spanish horses pass from hand to hand among the Indians, until
+they even find their way across the Rocky Mountains.
+
+The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these
+marauders; but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them
+to make long and wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen
+horses.
+
+Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of
+trappers, and proved themselves worthy companions. In the course
+of their journey through the country frequented by the poor Root
+Diggers, there seems to have been an emulation between them,
+which could inflict the greatest outrages upon the natives. The
+trappers still considered them in the light of dangerous foes;
+and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them with the sin of
+horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for the
+infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they
+were guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and
+killing them without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage
+sport; chasing their unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing
+them round the neck with their lasos, and then dragging them to
+death!
+
+Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition;
+at least, such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience
+to collect; for he was so deeply grieved by the failure of his
+plans, and so indignant at the atrocities related to him, that he
+turned, with disgust and horror, from the narrators. Had he
+exerted a little of the Lynch law of the wilderness, and hanged
+those dexterous horsemen in their own lasos, it would but have
+been a well-merited and salutary act of retributive justice. The
+failure of this expedition was a blow to his pride, and a still
+greater blow to his purse. The Great Salt Lake still remained
+unexplored; at the same time, the means which had been furnished
+so liberally to fit out this favorite expedition, had all been
+squandered at Monterey; and the peltries, also, which had been
+collected on the way. He would have but scanty returns,
+therefore, to make this year, to his associates in the United
+States; and there was great danger of their becoming
+disheartened, and abandoning the enterprise.
+
+
+
+                               40
+                                
+ Traveller's tales   Indian lurkers   Prognostics of Buckeye  
+Signs and portents   The medicine wolf   An alarm   An ambush  
+The captured provant   Triumph of Buckeye   Arrival of supplies  
+ Grand carouse   Arrangements for the year   Mr. Wyeth and his
+                        new-levied band.
+
+THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the
+excesses of the Californian adventurers were not participated by
+his men; on the contrary, the events of that expedition were
+favorite themes in the camp. The heroes of Monterey bore the palm
+in all the gossipings among the hunters. Their glowing
+descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and bull-fights especially,
+were listened to with intense delight; and had another expedition
+to California been proposed, the difficulty would have been to
+restrain a general eagerness to volunteer.
+
+The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he
+perceived, by various signs, that Indians were lurking in the
+neighborhood.  It was evident that the Blackfoot band, which he
+had seen when on his march, had dogged his party, and were intent
+on mischief. He endeavored to keep his camp on the alert; but it
+is as difficult to maintain discipline among trappers at a
+rendezvous as among sailors when in port.
+
+Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this
+heedlessness of the hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was
+continually preaching up caution.  He was a little prone to play
+the prophet, and to deal in signs and portents, which
+occasionally excited the merriment of his white comrades. He was
+a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans, or
+medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the
+howling or barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being
+driven by the larger wolves from the carcasses left on the
+hunting grounds by the hunters, follows the trail of the fresh
+meat carried to the camp. Here the smell of the roast and
+broiled, mingling with every breeze, keeps them hovering about
+the neighborhood; scenting every blast, turning up their noses
+like hungry hounds, and testifying their pinching hunger by long
+whining howls and impatient barkings. These are interpreted by
+the superstitious Indians into warnings that strangers are at
+hand; and one accidental coincidence, like the chance fulfillment
+of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to cover a thousand
+failures. This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is,
+therefore, called among Indians the "medicine wolf;" and such was
+one of Buckeye's infallible oracles.
+
+One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a
+gloomy countenance.  His mind was full of dismal presentiments,
+whether from mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the
+medicine wolf, does not appear. "Danger," he said, "was lurking
+in their path, and there would be some fighting before sunset." 
+He was bantered for his prophecy, which was attributed to his
+having supped too heartily, and been visited by bad dreams. In
+the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in pursuit
+of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat
+they should procure. They had been some few hours absent, when
+they came clattering at full speed into camp, giving the war cry
+of Blackfeet! Blackfeet!  Every one seized his weapon and ran to
+learn the cause of the alarm. It appeared that the hunters, as
+they were returning leisurely, leading their mule well laden with
+prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed close by a small stream
+overhung with trees, about two miles from the camp. Suddenly a
+party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the thickets, sprang
+up with a fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the hunters.
+The latter immediately threw themselves flat on their horses, put
+them to their speed, and never paused to look behind, until they
+found themselves in camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a
+wound; but the mule, with all the "provant," had fallen into the
+hands of the enemy This was a loss, as well as an insult, not to
+be borne. Every man sprang to horse, and with rifle in hand,
+galloped off to punish the Blackfeet, and rescue the buffalo
+beef. They came too late; the marauders were off, and all that
+they found of their mule was the dents of his hoofs, as he had
+been conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his savory cargo to
+the hills, to furnish the scampering savages with a banquet of
+roast meat at the expense of the white men.
+
+The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still
+more grievously balked of their supper.  Buckeye, the Delaware,
+sat smoking by his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters
+related the particulars of the attack, he listened in silence,
+with unruffled countenance, then pointing to the west, "the sun
+has not yet set," said he: "Buckeye did not dream like a fool!"
+
+All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at
+daybreak, and were struck with what appeared to be its
+fulfilment. They called to mind, also, a long catalogue of
+foregone presentiments and predictions made at various times by
+the Delaware, and, in their superstitious credulity, began to
+consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how natural it
+was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction
+verified in the present instance, when various signs gave
+evidence of a lurking foe.
+
+The various bands of Captain Bonneville's company had now been
+assembled for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their
+fill of feasting, and frolicking, and all the species of wild and
+often uncouth merrymaking, which invariably take place on these
+occasions. Their horses, as well as themselves, had recovered
+from past famine and fatigue, and were again fit for active
+service; and an impatience began to manifest itself among the men
+once more to take the field, and set off on some wandering
+expedition.
+
+At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head
+of a supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States.
+This active leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year
+previously in skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the
+year's collection of peltries. He had met with misfortune in the
+course of his voyage: one of his frail barks being upset, and
+part of the furs lost or damaged.
+
+The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual
+revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the
+mountaineers; drinking, dancing, swaggering, gambling,
+quarrelling, and fighting. Alcohol, which, from its portable
+qualities, containing the greatest quantity of fiery spirit in
+the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the
+mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these carousals, and
+is dealt out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When
+inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks
+and gambols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their
+drunken bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one of these riotous
+revels, presents a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes, broken
+heads, lack-lustre visages. Many of the trappers have squandered
+in one drunken frolic the hard-earned wages of a year; some have
+run in debt, and must toil on to pay for past pleasure. All are
+sated with this deep draught of pleasure, and eager to commence
+another trapping campaign; for hardship and hard work, spiced
+with the stimulants of wild adventures, and topped off with an
+annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless trapper.
+
+The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. 
+Cerre and Walker, with a number of men who had been to
+California, were to proceed to St. Louis with the packages of
+furs collected during the past year.  Another party, headed by a
+leader named Montero, was to proceed to the Crow country, trap
+upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills, and thence
+to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter
+quarters.
+
+The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He
+intended to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the
+lower part of the Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of
+the Multnomah; after wintering in those parts, and establishing a
+trade with those tribes, among whom he had sojourned on his first
+visit, he would return in the spring, cross the Rocky Mountains,
+and join Montero and his party in the month of July, at the
+rendezvous of the Arkansas; where he expected to receive his
+annual supplies from the States.
+
+If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea
+of the contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast
+wilderness, by noticing the extent of country comprised in these
+projected wanderings.  Just as the different parties were about
+to set out on the 3d of July, on their opposite routes, Captain
+Bonneville received intelligence that Wyeth, the indefatigable
+leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who had parted with him
+about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn, to descend
+that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new
+levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more
+to the banks of the Columbia,
+
+As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this eastern
+man," and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit;
+and as his movements are characteristic of life in the
+wilderness, we will, with the reader's permission, while Captain
+Bonneville is breaking up his camp and saddling his horses, step
+back a year in time, and a few hundred miles in distance to the
+bank of the Bighorn, and launch ourselves with Wyeth in his bull
+boat; and though his adventurous voyage will take us many
+hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering rivers; yet
+such is the magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring the
+reader safe to Bear River Valley, by the time the last horse is
+saddled.
+
+
+
+                              41.
+                                
+                    A voyage in a bull boat.
+
+IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J.
+Wyeth, as the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the
+foot of the rapids of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the
+parties of Campbell and Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of
+three buffalo skins, stretched on a  light frame, stitched
+together, and the seams paid with elk tallow and ashes.  It was
+eighteen feet long, and about five feet six inches wide, sharp at
+each end, with a round bottom, and drew about a foot and a half
+of water-a depth too great for these upper rivers, which abound
+with shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of two
+half-breeds, who claimed to be white men, though a mixture of the
+French creole and the Shawnee and Potawattomie.  They claimed,
+moreover, to be thorough mountaineers, and first-rate hunters -- 
+the common boast of these vagabonds of the wilderness.  Besides
+these, there was a Nez Perce lad of eighteen years of age, a kind
+of servant of all work, whose great aim, like all Indian
+servants, was to do as little work as possible; there was,
+moreover, a half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son of a
+Hudson's Bay trader by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with
+Wyeth to see the world and complete his education.  Add to these,
+Mr. Milton Sublette, who went as passenger, and we have the crew
+of the little bull boat complete.
+
+It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet
+through countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark
+to navigate these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down
+rapids, running on snags and bumping on sand-bars; such, however,
+are the cockle-shells with which these hardy rovers of the
+wilderness will attempt the wildest streams; and it is surprising
+what rough shocks and thumps these boats will endure, and what
+vicissitudes they will live through. Their duration, however, is
+but limited; they require frequently to be hauled out of the
+water and dried, to prevent the hides from becoming water-soaked;
+and they eventually rot and go to pieces.
+
+The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran
+about five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were
+generally alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees,
+intermingled occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then
+limestone cliffs and promontories advanced upon the river, making
+picturesque headlands. Beyond the woody borders rose ranges of
+naked hills.
+
+Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being
+somewhat experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required
+all his attention and skill, however, to pilot her clear of
+sand-bars and snags of sunken trees. There was often, too, a
+perplexity of choice, where the river branched into various
+channels, among clusters of islands; and occasionally the
+voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back.
+
+It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for
+they were passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were
+continually in reach of any ambush that might be lurking on
+shore.  The most formidable foes that they saw, however, were
+three grizzly bears, quietly promenading along the bank, who
+seemed to gaze at them with surprise as they glided by.  Herds of
+buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying on the ground, like
+cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as these, a
+perfect solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign of
+human habitation; for the Crows, as we have already shown, are a
+wandering people, a race of hunters and warriors, who live in
+tents and on horseback, and are continually on the move.
+At night they landed, hauled up their boat to dry, pitched their
+tent, and made a rousing fire. Then, as it was the first evening
+of their voyage, they indulged in a regale, relishing their
+buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after which, they slept
+soundly, without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early in the
+morning, they again launched the boat and committed themselves to
+the stream.
+
+In this way they voyaged for two days without any material
+occurrence, excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled
+them to put to shore, and wait until it was passed. On the third
+morning they descried some persons at a distance on the river
+bank. As they were now, by calculation, at no great distance from
+Fort Cass, a trading post of the American Fur Company, they
+supposed these might be some of its people. A nearer approach
+showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from the rest,
+they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main
+force of the Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their
+several chiefs, were but about two or three miles below, on their
+way up along the river. This was unpleasant tidings, but to
+retreat was impossible, and the river afforded no hiding place.
+They continued forward, therefore, trusting that, as Fort Cass
+was so near at hand, the Crows might refrain from any
+depredations.
+
+Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the
+first band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted;
+some armed with guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with
+lances. They made a wildly picturesque appearance managing their
+horses with their accustomed dexterity and grace. Nothing can be
+more spirited than a band of Crow cavaliers. They are a fine race
+of men averaging six feet in height, lithe and active, with
+hawks' eyes and Roman noses. The latter feature is common to the
+Indians on the east side of the Rocky Mountains; those on the
+western side have generally straight or flat noses.
+
+Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but
+the river, at this place, was not more than ninety yards across;
+he was perceived, therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors,
+and, we presume, in no very choice language; for, among their
+other accomplishments, the Crows are famed for possessing a
+Billingsgate vocabulary of unrivalled opulence, and for being by
+no means sparing of it whenever an occasion offers. Indeed,
+though Indians are generally very lofty, rhetorical, and
+figurative in their language at all great talks, and high
+ceremonials, yet, if trappers and traders may be believed, they
+are the most unsavory vagabonds in their ordinary colloquies;
+they make no hesitation to call a spade a spade; and when they
+once undertake to call hard names, the famous pot and kettle, of
+vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them for
+scurrility of epithet.
+
+To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the
+launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed
+with the best grace in his power and approached the chief of the
+band. It was Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw,
+and one whom we have already mentioned as being anxious to
+promote a friendly intercourse between his tribe and the white
+men. He was a tall, stout man, of good presence, and received the
+voyagers very graciously. His people, too, thronged around them,
+and were officiously attentive after the Crow fashion. One took a
+great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a still greater
+fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his own
+with surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step
+among the crowd.
+
+Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing
+would do but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new
+knife out of the Nez Perce's scabbard, and putting an old one in
+its place. Another stepped up and replaced this old knife with
+one still older, and a third helped himself to knife, scabbard
+and all. It was with much difficulty that Wyeth and his
+companions extricated themselves from the clutches of these
+officious Crows before they were entirely plucked.
+
+Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of
+the second band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the
+intention of passing them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some
+pointed their guns at the boat, and threatened to fire; others
+stripped, plunged into the stream, and came swimming across.
+Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth threw a cord to the first
+that came within reach, as if he wished to be drawn to the shore.
+
+In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he
+and his people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were
+eased of most of their superfluities. Nothing, in all
+probability, but the proximity of the American trading post, kept
+these land pirates from making a good prize of the bull boat and
+all its contents.
+
+These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently
+full of mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran
+the land in the autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his
+horses and effects; hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and
+his people; broke up their trapping campaigns, and, in a word,
+drove them all out of the Crow country. It has been suspected
+that they were set on to these pranks by some of the American Fur
+Company, anxious to defeat the plans of their rivals of the Rocky
+Mountain Company; for at this time, their competition was at its
+height, and the trade of the Crow country was a great object of
+rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the Crows in
+their depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent
+chiefly on robbing the parties of their traps and horses, thereby
+disabling them from prosecuting their hunting.
+
+We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were
+pushing their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts
+near those of the American Company; and that, at the very time of
+which we are speaking, Captain Sublette was ascending the
+Yellowstone with a keel boat, laden with supplies; so that there
+was every prospect of this eager rivalship being carried to
+extremes.
+
+The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the
+clouds of dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the
+mouth of the river and glided into the current of the
+Yellowstone. Turning down this stream, they made for Fort Cass,
+which is situated on the right bank, about three miles below the
+Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld a party of thirty-one
+savages, which they soon ascertained to be Blackfeet. The width
+of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient distance, and
+they soon landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere fortification
+against Indians; being a stockade of about one hundred and thirty
+feet square, with two bastions at the extreme corners. M'Tulloch,
+an agent of the American Company, was stationed there with twenty
+men; two boats of fifteen tons burden were lying here; but at
+certain seasons of the year a steamboat can come up to the fort.
+
+They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their
+appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in
+token of amity.  They plunged into the river, swam across, and
+were kindly received at the fort. They were some of the very men
+who had been engaged, the year previously, in the battle at
+Pierre's Hole, and a fierce-looking set of fellows they were;
+tall and hawk-nosed, and very much resembling the Crows. They
+professed to be on an amicable errand, to make peace with the
+Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to overtake them.
+Wyeth predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he had
+heard the Crows denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered
+two of their warriors who had ventured among them on the faith of
+a treaty of peace. It is probable, however, that this pacific
+errand was all a pretence, and that the real object of the
+Blackfeet braves was to hang about the skirts of the Crow band,
+steal their horses, and take the scalps of stragglers.
+
+At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and
+a quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August
+18th), he once more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down
+the Yellowstone, which inclined in an east-northeast direction.
+The river had alluvial bottoms, fringed with great quantities of
+the sweet cotton-wood, and interrupted occasionally by "bluffs"
+of sandstone. The current occasionally brings down fragments of
+granite and porphyry.
+
+In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank
+among the trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and,
+being in want of provisions, pulled toward shore. They
+discovered, just in time, a party of Blackfeet, lurking in the
+thickets, and sheered, with all speed, to the opposite side of
+the river.
+
+After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was
+immediately for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident
+signs of dissatisfaction in his half-breed hunters; who
+considered him as trenching upon their province, and meddling
+with things quite above his capacity; for these veterans of the
+wilderness are exceedingly pragmatical, on points of venery and
+woodcraft, and tenacious of their superiority; looking down with
+infinite contempt upon all raw beginners. The two worthies,
+therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time returned
+empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their
+guns; two miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all
+their picking and hammering, were continually apt to miss fire.
+These great boasters of the wilderness, however, are very often
+exceeding bad shots, and fortunate it is for them when they have
+old flint guns to bear the blame.
+
+The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was
+bellowing on a prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the
+wilderness sallied forth, and again their flint guns were at
+fault, and missed fire, and nothing went off but the buffalo.
+Wyeth now found there was danger of losing his dinner if he
+depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand, therefore, and
+went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned laden
+with buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular
+hunters, who were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn.
+
+All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire
+was made under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a
+beautiful piece of meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were
+soon roasting before it; in a hearty and prolonged repast, the
+two unsuccessful hunters gradually recovered from their
+mortification; threatened to discard their old flint guns as soon
+as they should reach the settlements, and boasted more than ever
+of the wonderful shots they had made, when they had guns that
+never missed fire.
+
+Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making
+their repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and
+proceeded on their way. They had constructed a sail out of their
+old tent, which they hoisted whenever the wind was favorable, and
+thus skimmed along down the stream. Their voyage was pleasant,
+notwithstanding the perils by sea and land, with which they were
+environed. Whenever they could they encamped on islands for the
+greater security. If on the mainland, and in a dangerous
+neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving
+their fire burning, dropping down the river some distance, and
+making no fire at their second encampment.  Sometimes they would
+float all night with the current; one keeping watch and steering
+while the rest slept. in such case, they would haul their boat on
+shore, at noon of the following day to dry; for notwithstanding
+every precaution, she was gradually getting water-soaked and
+rotten.
+
+There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus
+floating down these wild rivers at night. The purity of the
+atmosphere in these elevated regions gave additional splendor to
+the stars, and heightened the magnificence of the firmament. The
+occasional rush and laving of the waters; the vague sounds from
+the surrounding wilderness; the dreary howl, or rather whine of
+wolves from the plains; the low grunting and bellowing of the
+buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the ear with
+an effect unknown in the daytime.
+
+The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one
+mortification when they were fated to experience another. As the
+boat was gliding swiftly round a low promontory, thinly covered
+with trees, one of them gave the alarm of Indians. The boat was
+instantly shoved from shore and every one caught up his rifle.
+"Where are they?" cried Wyeth.
+
+"There -- there! riding on horseback!" cried one of the hunters.
+
+"Yes; with white scarfs on!" cried the other.
+
+Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing
+but two bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the
+thickets, and seeming, from the rapid motion of the boat, to be
+moving swiftly in an opposite direction. The detection of this
+blunder in the two veterans, who prided themselves on the
+sureness and quickness of their sight, produced a hearty laugh at
+their expense, and put an end to their vauntings.
+
+The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear
+stream; its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and
+assuming the yellow clay color of the Missouri. The current was
+about four miles an hour, with occasional rapids; some of them
+dangerous, but the voyagers passed them all without accident. The
+banks of the river were in many places precipitous with strata of
+bituminous coal.
+They now entered a region abounding with buffalo --  that
+ever-journeying animal, which moves in countless droves from
+point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing plains, pouring
+through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming rivers, ever
+on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some
+traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean,
+which, at certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the
+deep and revisit the remotest shores.
+
+These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary
+paths and highways, worn deep through the country, and making for
+the surest passes of the mountains, and the most practicable
+fords of the rivers. When once a great column is in full career,
+it goes straight forward, regardless of all obstacles; those in
+front being impelled by the moving mass behind. At such times
+they
+
+will break through a camp, trampling down everything in their
+course.
+
+It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of
+these buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had
+not been long asleep, when they were awakened by a great
+bellowing, and tramping, and the rush, and splash, and snorting
+of animals in the river. They had just time to ascertain that a
+buffalo army was entering the river on the opposite side, and
+making toward the landing place. With all haste they moved their
+boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the column
+had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank.
+
+It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to
+behold this countless throng making their way across the river,
+blowing, and bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in
+such dense and continuous column as to form a temporary dam
+across the river, the waters of which rise and rush over their
+backs, or between their squadrons. The roaring and rushing sound
+of one of these vast herds crossing a river, may sometimes in a
+still night be heard for miles.
+
+The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many
+buffaloes as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in
+their havoc; especially among scattered herds, that came swimming
+near the boat. On one occasion, an old buffalo bull approached so
+near that the half-breeds must fain try to noose him as they
+would a wild horse. The noose was successfully thrown around his
+head, and secured him by the horns, and they now promised
+themselves ample sport. The buffalo made prodigious turmoil in
+the water, bellowing, and blowing, and floundering; and they all
+floated down the stream together. At length he found foothold on
+a sandbar, and taking to his heels, whirled the boat after him
+like a whale when harpooned; so that the hunters were obliged to
+cast off their rope, with which strange head-gear the venerable
+bull made off to the prairies.
+
+On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its
+adventurous crew, into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri.
+Here, about six miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone, the
+voyagers landed at Fort Union, the distributing post of the
+American Fur Company in the western country.  It was a stockaded
+fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet square, pleasantly
+situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably entertained by
+Mr. M'Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him three
+days, enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and
+cheese, for the fort was well supplied with domestic cattle,
+though it had no garden. The atmosphere of these elevated regions
+is said to be too dry for the culture of vegetables; yet the
+voyagers, in coming down the Yellowstone, had met with plums,
+grapes, cherries, and currants, and had observed ash and elm
+trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be incompatible with
+gardening.
+
+At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his
+men. This was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a
+Blackfoot warrior. It bore the initials of poor More, the
+unfortunate youth murdered the year previously, at Jackson's
+Hole, by the Blackfeet, and whose bones had been subsequently
+found by Captain Bonneville. This flask had either been passed
+from hand to hand of the youth, or, perhaps, had been brought to
+the fort by the very savage who slew him.
+
+As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit
+for the broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was
+given up, and a canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long,
+fabricated by the Blackfeet, was purchased to supply its place.
+In this Wyeth hoisted his sail, and bidding adieu to the
+hospitable superintendent of Fort Union, turned his prow to the
+east, and set off down the Missouri.
+
+He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came
+to a large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of
+Captain William Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying
+on a powerful opposition to the American Fur Company. The
+voyagers went on board, where they were treated with the hearty
+hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a social evening,
+talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially the
+memorable fight at Pierre's Hole.
+
+Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in
+the canoe, and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the
+morning, the fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other. and
+Wyeth continued on his course. There was now no one on board of
+his boat that had ever voyaged on the Missouri; it was, however,
+all plain sailing down the stream, without any chance of missing
+the way.
+
+All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the
+evening and supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to
+float down with the current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The
+night was calm and serene; the elk kept up a continual whinnying
+or squealing, being the commencement of the season when they are
+in heat. In the midst of the night the canoe struck on a
+sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the rush and roar of the
+wild waters, which broke around her. They were all obliged to
+jump overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was
+accomplished with much difficulty.
+
+In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears
+at different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of
+land, and was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The
+two half-breed hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of
+the noose; promising to entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in
+strangling and drowning him. Their only fear was, that he might
+take fright and return to land before they could get between him
+and the shore.  Holding back, therefore, until he was fairly
+committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled forward
+with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him
+in the rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow,
+with the cord and slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce,
+managed the paddles. There was nothing further from the thoughts
+of honest Bruin, however, than to beat a retreat. Just as the
+canoe was drawing near, he turned suddenly round and made for it,
+with a horrible snarl and a tremendous show of teeth. The
+affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle off. Scarce
+had they turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous claws on
+the gunwale, and attempted to get on board. The canoe was nearly
+overturned, and a deluge of water came pouring over the gunwale. 
+All was clamor, terror, and confusion.  Every one bawled out -
+the bear roared and snarled - one caught up a gun; but water had
+rendered it useless. Others handled their paddles more
+effectually, and beating old Bruin about the head and claws,
+obliged him to relinquish his hold. They now plied their paddles
+with might and main, the bear made the best of his way to shore,
+and so ended the second exploit of the noose; the hunters
+determined to have no more naval contests with grizzly bears.
+
+The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but
+they were approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a
+tribe no less dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to
+small parties.
+
+In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and
+drifted quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed
+on, until he supposed himself safely through the region of
+danger; when he resumed his voyage in the open day. On the 3d of
+September he had landed, at midday, to dine; and while some were
+making a fire, one of the hunters mounted a high bank to look out
+for game. He had scarce glanced his eye round, when he perceived
+horses grazing on the opposite side of the river. Crouching down
+he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he had seen. On
+further reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one lodges;
+and from the number of horses, computed that there must be nearly
+a hundred Indians encamped there. They now drew their boat, with
+all speed and caution, into a thicket of water willows, and
+remained closely concealed all day. As soon as the night closed
+in they re-embarked. The moon would rise early; so that they had
+but about two hours of darkness to get past the camp. The night,
+however, was cloudy, with a blustering wind. Silently, and with
+muffled oars, they glided down the river, keeping close under the
+shore opposite to the camp; watching its various lodges and
+fires, and the dark forms passing to and fro between them.
+Suddenly, on turning a point of land, they found themselves close
+upon a camp on their own side of the river. It appeared that not
+more than one half of the band had crossed. They were within a
+few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages -- some
+standing, some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around.
+Some lodges were set up, others had been sent across the river.
+The red glare of the fires upon these wild groups and harsh
+faces, contrasted with the surrounding darkness, had a startling
+effect, as the voyagers suddenly came upon the scene.  The dogs
+of the camp perceived them, and barked; but the Indians.
+fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth instantly
+sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it struck
+upon a sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying
+situation; for he was fixed between the two camps, and within
+rifle range of both. All hands jumped out into the water, and
+tried to get the boat off; but as no one dared to give the word,
+they could not pull together, and their labor was in vain. In
+this way they labored for a long time; until Wyeth thought of
+giving a signal for a general heave, by lifting his hat. The
+expedient succeeded. They launched their canoe again into deep
+water, and getting in, had the delight of seeing the camp fires
+of the savages soon fading in the distance.
+
+They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far
+beyond all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and
+encamped.
+
+The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their
+boat in carrying sail.  Toward evening, the wind subsided and a
+beautiful calm night succeeded. They floated along with the
+current throughout the night, taking turns to watch and steer. 
+The deep stillness of the night was occasionally interrupted by
+the neighing of the elk, the hoarse lowing of the buffalo, the
+hooting of large owls, and the screeching of the small ones, now
+and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike sound of the
+swan.
+
+Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds,
+tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in
+extreme danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion,
+having continued to float at night, after the moon was down, they
+ran under a great snag, or sunken tree, with dry branches above
+the water. These caught the mast, while the boat swung round,
+broadside to the stream, and began to fill with water. Nothing
+saved her from total wreck, but cutting away the mast. She then
+drove down the stream, but left one of the unlucky half-breeds
+clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole. It was necessary
+to run in shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies and to
+attain some distance above the snag, when they launched forth
+again into the stream and floated down with it to his rescue.
+
+We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of
+upward of a months voyage, down the windings and doublings of
+this vast river; in the course of which they stopped occasionally
+at a post of one of the rival fur companies, or at a government
+agency for an Indian tribe. Neither shall we dwell upon the
+changes of climate and productions, as the voyagers swept down
+from north to south, across several degrees of latitude; arriving
+at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry and basswood
+trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the
+characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but
+still more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a
+succession of latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager
+almost from the frozen regions to the tropics.
+
+The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of
+the rivers, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast
+to those of the western side; where rocks and rapids continually
+menace and obstruct the voyager. We find him in a frail bark of
+skins, launching himself in a stream at the foot of the Rocky
+Mountains, and floating down from river to river, as they empty
+themselves into each other; and so he might have kept on upward
+of two thousand miles, until his little bark should drift into
+the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at Cantonment
+Leavenworth, the frontier post of the United States; where he
+arrived on the 27th of September.
+
+Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his
+half-breed boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the
+fort, they were hailed by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in
+full array, with what appeared to be a long knife glittering on
+the end of a musket, struck Baptiste with such affright that he
+took to his heels, bawling for mercy at the top of his voice. The
+Nez Perce would have followed him, had not Wyeth assured him of
+his safety. When they underwent the operation of the lancet, the
+doctor's wife and another lady were present; both beautiful
+women. They were the first white women that they had seen, and
+they could not keep their eyes off of them. On returning to the
+boat, they recounted to their companions all that they had
+observed at the fort; but were especially eloquent about the
+white squaws, who, they said, were white as snow, and more
+beautiful than any human being they had ever beheld.
+
+We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but
+will simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he
+succeeded in organizing an association under the name of "The
+Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company," for his original
+objects of a salmon fishery and a trade in furs. A brig, the May
+Dacres, had been dispatched for the Columbia with supplies; and
+he was now on his way to the same point, at the head of sixty
+men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom were
+experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the
+wilderness than his first band of "down-easters."
+
+We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we
+left, making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear
+River Valley.
+
+
+
+                              42.
+                                
+ Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia   Advance of
+   Wyeth   Efforts to keep the lead   Hudson's Bay party   A
+  junketing   A delectable beverage   Honey and alcohol   High
+carousing   The Canadian "bon vivant"   A cache   A rapid move  
+Wyeth and his plans   His travelling companions   Buffalo hunting
+               More conviviality   An interruption.
+
+IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his
+second visit to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of
+twenty-three men.  He travelled leisurely, to keep his horses
+fresh, until on the 10th of July a scout brought word that Wyeth,
+with his band, was but fifty miles in the rear, and pushing
+forward with all speed.  This caused some bustle in the camp; for
+it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to secure
+provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden
+to travel fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to
+receive all superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a
+spring burst out of the earth at the bottom. Another cache was
+therefore digged, about two miles further on; when, as they were
+about to bury the effects, a line of horsemen with pack-horses,
+were seen streaking over the plain, and encamped close by.
+
+It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those
+petty leaders, who, with a small party of men, and a small supply
+of goods, are employed to follow up a band of Indians from one
+hunting ground to another, and buy up their peltries.
+
+Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson's Bay
+Company, the captain sent an invitation to the officers of the
+party to an evening regale; and set to work to make jovial
+preparations. As the night air in these elevated regions is apt
+to be cold, a blazing fire was soon made, that would have done
+credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a midsummer banquet. The
+parties met in high good-fellowship. There was abundance of such
+hunters' fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it was all
+discussed with mountain appetites.  They talked over all the
+events of their late campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been
+unlucky in some of his transactions; and his brow began to grow
+cloudy. Captain Bonneville remarked his rising spleen, and
+regretted that he had no juice of the grape to keep it down.
+
+A man's wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a
+thought suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a
+delectable beverage.  Among his stores was a keg of honey but
+half exhausted. This he filled up with alcohol, and stirred the
+fiery and mellifluous ingredients together.  The glorious results
+may readily be imagined; a happy compound of strength and
+sweetness, enough to soothe the most ruffled temper and unsettle
+the most solid understanding.
+
+The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the
+first deep draught washed out every care from the mind of the
+veteran; the second elevated his spirit to the clouds.  He was,
+in fact, a boon companion; as all veteran Canadian traders are
+apt to be. He now became glorious; talked over all his exploits,
+his huntings, his fightings with Indian braves, his loves with
+Indian beauties; sang snatches of old French ditties, and
+Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang louder and
+louder; until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety, he
+gradually declined, and at length fell fast asleep upon the
+ground. After a long nap he again raised his head, imbibed
+another potation of the "sweet and strong," flashed up with
+another slight blaze of French gayety, and again fell asleep.
+
+The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad
+and sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past
+pleasures, and calling to mind the captain's dulcet compound,
+with many a retch and spasm. It seemed as if the honey and
+alcohol, which had passed so glibly and smoothly over his tongue,
+were at war within his stomach; and that he had a swarm of bees
+within his head. In short, so helpless and woebegone was his
+plight, that his party proceeded on their march without him; the
+captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after part of
+the day.
+
+As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville's men
+proceeded to construct and fill their cache; and just as it was
+completed the party of Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a
+moment all was activity to take the road.  The horses were
+prepared and mounted; and being lightened of a great part of
+their burdens, were able to move with celerity. As to the worthy
+convive of the preceding evening, he was carefully gathered up
+from the hunter's couch on which he lay, repentant and supine,
+and, being packed upon one of the horses, was hurried forward
+with the convoy, groaning and ejaculating at every jolt.
+
+In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode
+ahead of his party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their
+meeting was friendly and courteous; and they discussed, sociably,
+their respective fortunes since they separated on the banks of
+the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his intention of establishing a
+small trading post at the mouth of the Portneuf, and leaving a
+few men there, with a quantity of goods, to trade with the
+neighboring Indians.  He was compelled, in fact, to this measure,
+in consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company
+to take a supply of goods which he had brought out for them
+according to contract; and which he had no other mode of
+disposing of.  He further informed Captain Bonneville that the
+competition between the Rocky Mountain and American Fur Companies
+which had led to such nefarious stratagems and deadly feuds, was
+at an end; they having divided the country between them,
+allotting boundaries within which each was to trade and hunt, so
+as not to interfere with the other.
+
+In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr.
+Nuttall, the botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the
+time of the expedition to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an
+ornithologist; from these gentlemen we may look forward to
+important information concerning these interesting regions. There
+were three religious missionaries, also, bound to the shores of
+the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel in that far
+wilderness.
+
+After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation,
+Wyeth returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to
+press forward, and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly
+sober and moralizing chief of the Hudson's Bay Company, under a
+proper escort, to rejoin his people; his route branching off in a
+different direction. The latter took a cordial leave of his host,
+hoping, on some future occasion, to repay his hospitality in
+kind.
+
+In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing
+scouts out far ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of
+buffalo.  He had confidently expected to find game in abundance,
+on the head-waters of the Portneuf; but on reaching that region,
+not a track was to be seen.
+
+At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to
+the head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds
+quietly grazing in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his
+return, to report his discoveries; but night overtaking him, he
+was kindly and hospitably entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As
+soon as day dawned he hastened to his own camp with the welcome
+intelligence; and about ten o'clock of the same morning, Captain
+Bonneville's party were in the midst of the game.
+
+The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the
+runners, mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the
+buffalo. Others of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and
+other contrivances, for jerking or drying meat; others were
+lighting great fires for the same purpose; soon the hunters began
+to make their appearance, bringing in the choicest morsels of
+buffalo meat; these were placed upon the scaffolds, and the whole
+camp presented a scene of singular hurry and activity. At
+daylight the next morning, the runners again took the field, with
+similar success; and, after an interval of repose made their
+third and last chase, about twelve o'clock; for by this time,
+Wyeth's party was in sight. The game being now driven into a
+valley, at some distance, Wyeth was obliged to fix his camp
+there; but he came in the evening to pay Captain Bonneville a
+visit. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, the amateur
+traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for the adventurous
+life of the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M'Kay, a
+half-breed; son of the unfortunate adventurer of the same name
+who came out in the first maritime expedition to Astoria and was
+blown up in the Tonquin.  His son had grown up in the employ of
+the British fur companies; and was a prime hunter, and a daring
+partisan. He held, moreover, a farm in the valley of the
+Wallamut.
+
+The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville's camp,
+were surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men;
+his party being dispersed in all directions, to make the most of
+their present chance for hunting. They remonstrated with him on
+the imprudence of remaining with so trifling a guard in a region
+so full of danger. Captain Bonneville vindicated the policy of
+his conduct.  He never hesitated to send out all his hunters,
+when any important object was to be attained; and experience had
+taught him that he was most secure when his forces were thus
+distributed over the surrounding country. He then was sure that
+no enemy could approach, from any direction, without being
+discovered by his hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the
+slightest signs of the proximity of Indians; and who would
+instantly convey intelligence to the camp.
+
+The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable
+entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the
+camp; of prime hunters' dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo
+tongues; and roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these
+were cooked in hunters' style; served up with a profusion known
+only on a plentiful hunting ground, and discussed with an
+appetite that would astonish the puny gourmands of the cities. 
+But above all, and to give a bacchanalian grace to this truly
+masculine repast, the captain produced his mellifluous keg of
+home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over the senses of
+the veteran of Hudson's Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again went
+round; never did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more
+rapturous commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that
+happy state which would have insured ample cause for the next
+day's repentance; and the bees were already beginning to buzz
+about their ears, when a messenger came spurring to the camp with
+intelligence that Wyeth's people had got entangled in one of
+those deep and frightful ravines, piled with immense fragments of
+volcanic rock, which gash the whole country about the head-waters
+of the Blackfoot River. The revel was instantly at an end; the
+keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was deserted; and the guests
+departed with all speed to aid in extricating their companions
+from the volcanic ravine.
+
+
+
+                              43.
+                                
+A rapid march   A cloud of dust   Wild horsemen   "High Jinks"  
+Horseracing and rifle-shooting   The game of hand   The fishing
+ season   Mode of fishing   Table lands   Salmon fishers   The
+captain's visit to an Indian lodge   The Indian girl   The pocket
+       mirror   Supper   Troubles of an evil conscience.
+
+"UP and away!" is the first thought at daylight of the Indian
+trader, when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained.
+Early in the morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried
+meat to be packed upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his
+party to hunt the scattered buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the
+east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His march was rugged
+and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs and
+precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks
+rose like walls.
+
+On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain,
+and as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the
+neighboring hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they
+perceived a great cloud of dust rising in the south, and
+evidently approaching. Hastening back to the camp, they gave the
+alarm.  Preparations were instantly made to receive an enemy;
+while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the "running
+horses" kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a
+little while, they made signals from a distance that all was
+friendly. By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if
+hurried along by a blast, and a band of wild horsemen came
+dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and whooping like so
+many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their mode of
+riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of
+savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally
+half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who
+were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the
+Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+Here was again "high jinks" in the camp. Captain Bonneville's men
+hailed these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as
+the very game birds of their class. They entertained them with
+the hospitality of mountaineers, feasting them at every fire.  At
+first, there were mutual details of adventures and exploits, and
+broad joking mingled with peals of laughter. Then came on
+boasting of the comparative merits of horses and rifles, which
+soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing, and
+shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded
+another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious
+parties, fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was
+about to take place, when suddenly the attention of the
+quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind of Indian chant or
+chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm. Their fury
+was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas of
+the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws  were
+turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking
+their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most
+exciting amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the
+Far West.
+
+The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a
+kind of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of "Hand."
+This is played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons
+before a blazing fire. It is in some respects like the old game
+of passing the ring or the button, and detecting the hand which
+holds it. In the present game, the object hidden, or the cache as
+it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood, or other
+diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This
+is passed backward and forward among the party "in hand," while
+the party "out of hand" guess where it is concealed. To heighten
+the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles
+are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party
+"in hand" beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the
+choral chant already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as
+the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the game, the
+excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full
+chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such
+a heat that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders,
+even in the cold of a winter night. The bets are doubled and
+trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement increases
+almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers
+are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
+
+These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every
+fire glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at
+their frantic orgies, and the scene would have been kept up
+throughout the succeeding day, had not Captain Bonneville
+interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour, issued his
+marching orders.
+
+Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly
+returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were
+yet scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great
+numbers. It was now the season of the annual fish-feast, with
+which the Indians in these parts celebrate the first appearance
+of the salmon in this river.  These fish are taken in great
+numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch.  The
+Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as
+they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they
+place a sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven
+with withes, and forming an angle in the middle of the current,
+where a small opening is left for the salmon to pass. Around this
+opening the Indians station themselves on small rafts, and ply
+their spears with great success.
+
+The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil,
+inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly
+speaking, wormwood.  Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven
+occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it
+approaches the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs,
+difficult to pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is
+impossible, for days together, to get down to the water's edge,
+to give drink to the horses.  This obliges the traveller
+occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a
+wide sweep into the interior.
+
+It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered
+extremely from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and
+gnats, too, were extremely troublesome to the horses; especially
+when keeping along the edge of the river where it runs between
+low sand-banks.  Whenever the travellers encamped in the
+afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly shores and remained
+there, without attempting to feed until the cool of the evening. 
+As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
+current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves
+after the heat of the day.  The nights were always cool and
+pleasant.
+
+At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was
+nearly five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands,
+adorned with groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians
+were assembled in great numbers, and had barricaded the channels
+between the islands, to enable them to spear the salmon with
+greater facility. They were a timid race, and seemed unaccustomed
+to the sight of white men. Entering one of the huts, Captain
+Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a fine
+salmon.  It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung
+over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is
+considered cooked.
+
+ Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the
+captain awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite
+himself to the repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his
+intrusion in good part.  While conversing with him the captain
+felt something move behind him, and turning round and removing a
+few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a young girl, about
+fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed her large
+black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute
+surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears,
+and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly
+to tie it round her neck.  She jerked back at each attempt,
+uttering a sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the
+blandishments of the captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking,
+and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering the shyness of
+the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned toward
+the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco,
+and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his
+pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold,
+an urchin of the family approached the door, but catching a sight
+of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and ensconced
+himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut.
+
+Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade
+with the simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt,
+had furs somewhere concealed, the captain now drew forth that
+grand lure in the eyes of a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of
+it was irresistible. After examining it for a long time with
+wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat skin, and offered
+it in exchange.  The captain shook his head; but purchased the
+skin for a couple of buttons - superfluous trinkets! as the
+worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which
+to place them.
+
+The mirror still continued the great object of desire,
+particularly in the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot
+of parched flour and a string of biscuit roots. These procured
+her some trifle in return; but could not command the purchase of
+the mirror. The salmon being now completely cooked, they all
+joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion was deposited
+before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass, which
+served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon
+boiled so completely to his fancy.
+
+Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to
+his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils
+so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs
+of confusion and dizziness.  Being satisfied, by this time, of
+the kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became
+easy and communicative; and at length hinted something about
+exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at once offered
+to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door. The
+bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile
+of bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth
+the number of skins agreed upon as the price.
+
+Shortly afterward, some of the captain's people coming up, he
+ordered another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his
+departure from the hut, after distributing a few trifling
+presents among its simple inhabitants. During all the time of his
+visit, the little Indian girl had kept her large black eyes fixed
+upon him, almost without winking, watching every movement with
+awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing after him,
+motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his
+new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed
+in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a
+faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the
+neighborhood.
+
+The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the
+conduct of one of the captain's men, who had been in the
+California expedition.  During all their intercourse with the
+harmless people of this place, he had manifested uneasiness and
+anxiety.  While his companions mingled freely and joyously with
+the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious look;
+scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at
+the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who
+regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was
+ordinarily a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor
+turned pale at the prospect of a battle. At length he requested
+permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the way of these
+people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the
+people of Ogden's River, made him continually fear that some
+among them might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek
+an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this, while they remained
+in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way and keep
+aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. "Such,"
+observed Captain Bonneville, "is the effect of self-reproach,
+even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little
+else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience."
+
+
+
+                              44.
+                                
+     Outfit of a trapper   Risks to which he is subjected  
+Partnership of trappers   Enmity of Indians   Distant smoke   A
+   country on fire   Gun Greek   Grand Rond   Fine pastures  
+  Perplexities in a smoky country   Conflagration of forests.
+
+IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending
+along Snake River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller
+streams.  In this way a range of country is trapped by small
+detachments from a main body.  The outfit of a trapper is
+generally a rifle, a pound of powder, and four pounds of lead,
+with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe, a hatchet, a knife and
+awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where supplies are plenty,
+seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two or three horses, to
+carry himself and his baggage and peltries.  Two trappers
+commonly go together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and
+support; a larger party could not easily escape the eyes of the
+Indians. It is a service of peril, and even more so at present
+than formerly, for the Indians, since they have got into the
+habit of trafficking peltries with the traders, have learned the
+value of the beaver, and look upon the trappers as poachers, who
+are filching the riches from their streams, and interfering with
+their market. They make no hesitation, therefore, to murder the
+solitary trapper, and thus destroy a competitor, while they
+possess themselves of his spoils. It is with regret we add, too,
+that this hostility has in many cases been instigated by traders,
+desirous of injuring their rivals, but who have themselves often
+reaped the fruits of the mischief they have sown.
+
+When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode
+of proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where
+they can graze unobserved.  They then build a small hut, dig out
+a canoe from a cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore
+silently, in the evening, and set their traps. These they revisit
+in the same silent way at daybreak. When they take any beaver
+they bring it home, skin it, stretch the skins on sticks to dry,
+and feast upon the flesh.  The body, hung up before the fire,
+turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior style; the
+tail is the trapper s tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end of a
+stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than
+the tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo.
+
+With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers
+cannot always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has
+been discovered, perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or
+their smoke has been seen curling up out of the secret glen, or
+has been scented by the savages, whose sense of smell is almost
+as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they are pounced upon when
+in the act of setting their traps; at other times, they are
+roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps,
+have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the
+midst of one of their beaver banquets.  In this way they are
+picked off, from time to time, and nothing is known of them,
+until, perchance, their bones are found bleaching in some lonely
+ravine, or on the banks of some nameless stream, which from that
+time is called after them. Many of the small streams beyond the
+mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate trappers that
+have been murdered on their banks.
+
+A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the
+present instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he
+had intended; for his scouts brought him word that formidable
+bands of the Banneck Indians were lying on the Boisee and Payette
+Rivers, at no great distance, so that they would be apt to detect
+and cut off any stragglers. It behooved him, also, to keep his
+party together, to guard against any predatory attack upon the
+main body; he continued on his way, therefore, without dividing
+his forces. And fortunate it was that he did so; for in a little
+while he encountered one of the phenomena of the western wilds
+that would effectually have prevented his scattered people from
+finding each other again. In a word, it was the season of setting
+fire to the prairies. As he advanced he began to perceive great
+clouds of smoke at a distance, rising by degrees, and spreading
+over the whole face of the country. The atmosphere became dry and
+surcharged with murky vapor, parching to the skin, and irritating
+to the eyes.  When travelling among the hills, they could
+scarcely discern objects at the distance of a few paces; indeed,
+the least exertion of the vision was painful. There was evidently
+some vast conflagration in the direction toward which they were
+proceeding; it was as yet at a great distance, and during the day
+they could only see the smoke rising in larger and denser
+volumes, and rolling forth in an immense canopy. At night the
+skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen fires,
+hanging in an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon.
+
+Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the
+left, Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the
+mountain and avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out
+of the range of the Bannecks, he sent out his people in all
+directions to hunt the antelope for present supplies; keeping the
+dried meats for places where game might be scarce.
+
+During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the
+smoke continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to
+distinguish the face of the country and ascertain landmarks.
+Fortunately, the travellers fell upon an Indian trail. which led
+them to the head-waters of the Fourche de Glace or Ice River,
+sometimes called the Grand Rond. Here they found all the plains
+and valleys wrapped in one vast conflagration; which swept over
+the long grass in billows of flame, shot up every bush and tree,
+rose in great columns from the groves, and set up clouds of smoke
+that darkened the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of fire, the
+travellers had to pursue their course close along the foot of the
+mountains; but the irritation from the smoke continued to be
+tormenting.
+
+The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out
+into broad and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by
+mountain springs and rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by
+small bands of the Skynses, to pasture their horses, as well as
+to banquets upon the salmon which abound in the neighboring
+waters. They take these fish in great quantities and without the
+least difficulty; simply taking them out of the water with their
+hands, as they flounder and struggle in the numerous long shoals
+of the principal streams. At the time the travellers passed over
+these prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams by which they
+were intersected were completely choked with salmon, which they
+took in great numbers. The wolves and bears frequent these
+streams at this season, to avail themselves of these great
+fisheries.
+
+The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great
+difficulties and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which
+seemed to embrace the whole wilderness. The sun was for a great
+part of the time obscured by the smoke, and the loftiest
+mountains were hidden from view. Blundering along in this region
+of mist and uncertainty, they were frequently obliged to make
+long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they could not perceive
+until close upon them. The Indian trails were their safest
+guides, for though they sometimes appeared to lead them out of
+their direct course, they always conducted them to the passes.
+
+On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way
+River.  Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this
+head-water makes its way, they found a band of the Skynses, who
+were extremely sociable, and appeared to be well disposed, and as
+they spoke the Nez Perce language, an intercourse was easily kept
+up with them.
+
+In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville
+encamped for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength
+of his horses.  Scouts were now sent out to explore the
+surrounding country, and search for a convenient pass through the
+mountains toward the Wallamut or Multnomah. After an absence of
+twenty days they returned weary and discouraged.  They had been
+harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain defiles, where their
+progress was continually impeded by rocks and precipices.  Often
+they had been obliged to travel along the edges of frightful
+ravines, where a false step would have been fatal.  In one of
+these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and
+would have been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the
+branches of a tree, from which he was extricated with great
+difficulty.  These, however, were not the worst of their
+difficulties and perils. The great conflagration of the country,
+which had harassed the main party in its march, was still more
+awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames
+which swept rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies
+assumed a fiercer character and took a stronger hold amid the
+wooded glens and ravines of the mountains. Some of the deep
+gorges and defiles sent up sheets of flame, and clouds of lurid
+smoke, and sparks and cinders that in the night made them
+resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and forests, too,
+which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns of fire,
+and added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these
+stupendous sights were combined the rushing blasts caused by the
+rarefied air, which roared and howled through the narrow glens,
+and whirled forth the smoke and flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever
+and anon, too, was heard the crash of falling trees, sometimes
+tumbling from crags and precipices, with tremendous sounds.
+
+In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and
+blinding, that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could
+only find each other by shouting.  Often, too, they had to grope
+their way through the yet burning forests, in constant peril from
+the limbs and trunks of trees, which frequently fell across their
+path. At length they gave up the attempt to find a pass as
+hopeless, under actual circumstances, and made their way back to
+the camp to report their failure.
+
+
+
+                              45.
+                                
+The Skynses   Their traffic   Hunting   Food   Horses   A horse-
+    race   Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and
+ Flatheads   Prayers   Exhortations   A preacher on horseback  
+ Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes   A new light.
+
+DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had
+been kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had
+removed into the neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell
+about the waters of the Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and
+trade regularly with the Hudson's Bay Company; generally giving
+horses in exchange for the articles of which they stand in need.
+They bring beaver skins, also, to the trading posts; not procured
+by trapping, but by a course of internal traffic with the shy and
+ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep in distant and
+unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture near the
+trading houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally;
+and depend, for a part of the year, on fishing. Their main
+subsistence, however, is upon roots, especially the kamash. This
+bulbous root is said to be of a delicious flavor, and highly
+nutritious. The women dig it up in great quantities, steam it,
+and deposit it in caches for winter provisions. It grows
+spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains.
+
+This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few
+rifles among them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for
+those of Captain Bonneville's men; offering a couple of good
+running horses for a light rifle. Their first-rate horses,
+however, were not to be procured from them on any terms. They
+almost invariably use ponies; but of a breed infinitely superior
+to any in the United States. They are fond of trying their speed
+and bottom, and of betting upon them.
+
+As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative
+merit of their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had
+a trial of speed between that, an American, and a Shoshonie,
+which were supposed to be well matched.  The race-course was for
+the distance of one mile and a half out and back. For the first
+half mile the American took the lead by a few hands; but, losing
+his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the Shoshonie and Skynse
+to contend together.  For a mile and a half they went head and
+head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the race
+with great ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over.
+
+The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong
+devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by
+some of the resident personages of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+Sunday is invariably kept sacred among these tribes. They will
+not raise their camp on that day, unless in extreme cases of
+danger or hunger: neither will they hunt, nor fish, nor trade,
+nor perform any kind of labor on that day. A part of it is passed
+in prayer and religious ceremonies. Some chief, who is generally
+at the same time what is called a "medicine man," assembles the
+community. After invoking blessings from the Deity, he addresses
+the assemblage, exhorting them to good conduct; to be diligent in
+providing for their families; to abstain from lying and stealing;
+to avoid quarrelling or cheating in their play, and to be just
+and hospitable to all strangers who may be among them. Prayers
+and exhortations are also made, early in the morning, on week
+days. Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from horseback;
+moving slowly about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his
+exhortations with a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders
+listen with profound attention; and at the end of every sentence
+respond one word in unison, apparently equivalent to an amen.
+While these prayers and exhortations are going on, every
+employment in the camp is suspended. If an Indian is riding by
+the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and attends with
+reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his
+prayer or exhortation, he says, "I have done," upon which there
+is a general exclamation in unison.
+With these religious services, probably derived from the white
+men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of their old Indian
+ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or ballad,
+which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the
+purpose. Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal
+holidays of the Roman Catholic Church.
+
+Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among
+these poor savages, has evidently understood their characters and
+capacities, and effected a great melioration of their manners. Of
+this we speak not merely from the testimony of Captain
+Bonneville, but likewise from that of Mr. Wyeth, who passed some
+months in a travelling camp of the Flatheads. "During the time I
+have been with them," says he, "I have never known an instance of
+theft among them: the least thing, even to a bead or pin, is
+brought to you, if found; and often, things that have been thrown
+away. Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This
+absence of all quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to
+see the various occasions that would have given rise to it among
+the whites: the crowding together of from twelve to eighteen
+hundred horses, which have to be driven into camp at night, to be
+picketed, to be packed in the morning; the gathering of fuel in
+places where it is extremely scanty. All this, however, is done
+without confusion or disturbance.
+
+"They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is
+portrayed in their countenances. They are polite, and
+unobtrusive.  When one speaks, the rest pay strict attention:
+when he is done, another assents by 'yes,' or dissents by 'no;'
+and then states his reasons, which are listened to with equal
+attention. Even the children are more peaceable than any other
+children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor any
+quarrelling; although there were, at least, five hundred of them
+together, and continually at play. With all this quietness of
+spirit, they are brave when put to the test; and are an overmatch
+for an equal number of Blackfeet."
+
+The foregoing observations, though gathered  from Mr. Wyeth as
+relative to the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses
+also.  Captain Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter,
+took constant occasion, in conversing with their principal men,
+to encourage them in the cultivation of moral and religious
+habits; drawing a comparison between their peaceable and
+comfortable course of life and that of other tribes, and
+attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion.
+He frequently attended their religious services, with his people;
+always enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment;
+and he observed that the poor Indians were always pleased to have
+the white men present.
+
+The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a
+considerable degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among
+them might lead them, Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the
+earth and cultivate grain; the country of the Skynses and Nez
+Perces is admirably adapted for the raising of cattle. A
+Christian missionary or two, and some trifling assistance from
+government, to protect them from the predatory and warlike
+tribes, might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the
+midst of the great western wilderness, who would "wear the
+Americans near their hearts."
+
+We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the
+sanctity of this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who
+are all ardently addicted to gambling and horseracing, make
+Sunday a peculiar day for recreations of the kind, not deeming
+them in any wise out of season. After prayers and pious
+ceremonies are over, there is scarce an hour in the day, says
+Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several horses racing at
+full speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups of
+gamblers, ready to stake everything upon the all-absorbing game
+of hand. The Indians, says Wyeth, appear to enjoy their
+amusements with more zest than the whites. They are great
+gamblers; and in proportion to their means, play bolder and bet
+higher than white men.
+
+The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the
+savages, has been at times a convenient policy with some of the
+more knowing traders; who have derived great credit and influence
+among them by being considered "medicine men;" that is, men
+gifted with mysterious knowledge. This feeling is also at times
+played upon by religious charlatans, who are to be found in
+savage as well as civilized life. One of these was noted by
+Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads. A new great man,
+says he, is rising in the camp, who aims at power and sway. He
+covers his designs under the ample cloak of religion; inculcating
+some new doctrines and ceremonials among those who are more
+simple than himself. He has already made proselytes of one-fifth
+of the camp; beginning by working on the women, the children, and
+the weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on the plain, to
+their own vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe look on
+and laugh; thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will
+soon find that women, children, and fools, form a large majority
+of every community, and they will have, eventually, to follow the
+new light, or be considered among the profane. As soon as a
+preacher or pseudo prophet of the kind gets followers enough, he
+either takes command of the tribe, or branches off and sets up an
+independent chief and "medicine man."
+
+
+
+                              46.
+                                
+ Scarcity in the camp   Refusal of supplies by the Hudson's Bay
+Company   Conduct of the Indians   A hungry retreat   John Day's
+  River   The Blue Mountains   Salmon fishing on Snake River  
+ Messengers from the Crow country   Bear River Valley   immense
+  migration of buffalo   Danger of buffalo hunting   A wounded
+      Indian   Eutaw Indians   A "surround" of antelopes.
+
+PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain
+Bonneville found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking
+leave, therefore, of his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the
+westward, and, crossing a low range of mountains, encamped on the
+head-waters of the Ottolais. Being now within thirty miles of
+Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+he sent a small detachment of men thither to purchase corn for
+the subsistence of his party. The men were well received at the
+fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily refused.
+Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave
+their present employ, and enter into the service of the company;
+but they were not to be seduced.
+
+When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed,
+he ordered an instant move, for there was imminent danger of
+famine. He pushed forward down the course of the Ottolais, which
+runs diagonal to the Columbia, and falls into it about fifty
+miles below the Wallah-Wallah. His route lay through a beautiful
+undulating country, covered with horses belonging to the Skynses,
+who sent them there for pasturage.
+
+On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a
+trade with the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his
+surprise they kept aloof, and even hid themselves on his
+approach. He soon discovered that they were under the influence
+of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had forbidden them to trade, or
+hold any communion with him.  He proceeded along the Columbia,
+but it was everywhere the same; not an article of provisions was
+to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length obliged to
+kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people. He
+now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad
+and beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a
+mirror; a little more journeying would take them to its lower
+region; to the noble valley of the Wallamut, their projected
+winter quarters. To advance under present circumstances would be
+to court starvation. The resources of the country were locked
+against them, by the influence of a jealous and powerful
+monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely hope
+to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered
+any longer in the country the snows would gather upon the
+mountains and cut off their retreat. By hastening their return,
+they would be able to reach the Blue Mountains just in time to
+find the elk, the deer, and the bighorn; and after they had
+supplied themselves with provisions, they might push through the
+mountains before they were entirely blocked by snow. Influenced
+by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly turned
+his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue
+Mountains. He took his course up John Day's River, so called from
+one of the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine
+was at his heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by
+the 1st of October. He entered by the opening made by John Day's
+River; it was a rugged and difficult defile, but he and his men
+had become accustomed to hard scrambles of the kind. Fortunately,
+the September rains had extinguished the fires which recently
+spread over these regions; and the mountains, no longer wrapped
+in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur and sublimity to the
+eye.
+
+They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant
+game in the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed
+through, returning from their fishing expeditions, and had driven
+all the game before them. It was only now and then that the
+hunters could bring in sufficient to keep the party from
+starvation.
+
+To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered
+for ten days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after
+much perplexity, they made their way to the banks of Snake River,
+following the course of which, they were sure to reach their
+place of destination.
+
+It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more
+upon this noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in
+such scanty numbers on their journey down the river, now
+absolutely thronged its banks to profit by the abundance of
+salmon, and lay up a stock for winter provisions. Scaffolds were
+everywhere erected, and immense quantities of fish drying upon
+them. At this season of the year, however, the salmon are
+extremely poor, and the travellers needed their keen sauce of
+hunger to give them a relish.
+
+In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum
+of dead salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at
+the falls; the fetid odor of which tainted the air.
+
+It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the
+Portneuf that they really found themselves in a region of
+abundance. Here the buffaloes were in immense herds; and here
+they remained for three days, slaying and cooking, and feasting,
+and indemnifying themselves by an enormous carnival, for a long
+and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found good pasturage, and
+enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard travelling.
+
+During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved
+to be messengers sent express for supplies from Montero's party;
+which had been sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black
+Hills, and to winter on the Arkansas. They reported that all was
+well with the party, but that they had not been able to
+accomplish the whole of their mission, and were still in the Crow
+country, where they should remain until joined by Captain
+Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the messengers
+with him until the 17th of November, when, having reached the
+caches on Bear River, and procured thence the required supplies,
+he sent them back to their party; appointing a rendezvous toward
+the last of June following, on the forks of Wind River Valley, in
+the Crow country.
+
+He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having
+discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood,
+purchased from them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter
+comfort, and arranged with them to encamp together during the
+winter.
+
+The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on
+the upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed
+approaching it as long as possible, in order to avoid driving off
+the buffaloes, which would be needed for winter provisions.  He
+accordingly moved forward but slowly, merely as the want of game
+and grass obliged him to shift his position. The weather had
+already become extremely cold, and the snow lay to a considerable
+depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried meat as
+possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage
+that could be spared was deposited. This done, the party
+continued to move slowly toward their winter quarters.
+
+They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the
+present winter.  The people upon Snake River having chased off
+the buffaloes before the snow had become deep, immense herds now
+came trooping over the mountains; forming dark masses on their
+sides, from which their deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the
+low peals and mutterings from a gathering thunder-cloud. In
+effect, the cloud broke, and down came the torrent thundering
+into the valley. It is utterly impossible, according to Captain
+Bonneville, to convey an idea of the effect produced by the sight
+of such countless throngs of animals of such bulk and spirit, all
+rushing forward as if swept on by a whirlwind.
+
+The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave
+uncommon ardor to their present hunting. One of the Indians
+attached to the party, finding himself on horseback in the midst
+of the buffaloes, without either rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed
+after a fine cow that was passing close by him, and plunged his
+knife into her side with such lucky aim as to bring her to the
+ground.  It was a daring deed; but hunger had made him almost
+desperate.
+
+The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be
+wounded in particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet
+of a bull produces no other effect than a toss of the head and
+greater exasperation; on the contrary, a ball striking the
+forehead of a cow is fatal. Several instances occurred during
+this great hunting bout, of bulls fighting furiously after having
+received mortal wounds. Wyeth, also, was witness to an instance
+of the kind while encamped with Indians. During a grand hunt of
+the buffaloes, one of the Indians pressed a bull so closely that
+the animal turned suddenly on him. His horse stopped short, or
+started back, and threw him. Before he could rise the bull rushed
+furiously upon him, and gored him in the chest so that his breath
+came out at the aperture. He was conveyed back to the camp, and
+his wound was dressed. Giving himself up for slain, he called
+round him his friends, and made his will by word of mouth. It was
+something like a death chant, and at the end of every sentence
+those around responded in concord. He appeared no ways
+intimidated by the approach of death. "I think," adds Wyeth, "the
+Indians die better than the white men; perhaps from having less
+fear about the future."
+
+The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to
+the leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm
+and move off from a party of hunters to the windward, even when
+two miles distant.
+
+The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley
+were now snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp
+throughout the winter. This furnished the trappers and their
+Indian friends a perpetual carnival; so that, to slay and eat
+seemed to be the main occupations of the day. It is astonishing
+what loads of meat it requires to cope with the appetite of a
+hunting camp.
+
+The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good
+cheer. These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast
+numbers as the winter advanced. They might be completely out of
+sight, but at the report of a gun, flights of ravens would
+immediately be seen hovering in the air, no one knew whence they
+came; while the sharp visages of the wolves would peep down from
+the brow of every hill, waiting for the hunter's departure to
+pounce upon the carcass.
+
+Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in
+the valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous.
+This was a band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on
+the river. They are a poor tribe that, in a scale of the various
+tribes inhabiting these regions, would rank between the
+Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root Diggers; though more bold
+and warlike than the latter. They have but few rifles among them,
+and are generally armed with bows and arrows.
+
+As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account
+of old grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the
+other, it was feared some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain
+Bonneville, therefore, undertook the office of pacificator, and
+sent to the Eutaw chiefs, inviting them to a friendly smoke, in
+order to bring about a reconciliation. His invitation was proudly
+declined; whereupon he went to them in person, and succeeded in
+effecting a suspension of hostilities until the chiefs of the two
+tribes could meet in council. The braves of the two rival camps
+sullenly acquiesced in the arrangement. They would take their
+seats upon the hill tops, and watch their quondam enemies hunting
+the buffalo in the plain below, and evidently repine that their
+hands were tied up from a skirmish.  The worthy captain, however,
+succeeded in carrying through his benevolent mediation. The
+chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet buried, and
+peace formally proclaimed.  After this, both camps united and
+mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would
+occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game,
+and blows would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a
+buffalo; but the chiefs wisely took no notice of these individual
+brawls.
+
+One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news
+of several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great
+distance. This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both
+tribes were in ragged condition, and sadly in want of those
+shirts made of the skin of the antelope. It was determined to
+have "a surround," as the mode of hunting that animal is called.
+Everything now assumed an air of mystic solemnity and importance.
+The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms each according to
+his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally with the
+compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of
+animals which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable
+auguries. After much grave smoking and deliberating it was at
+length proclaimed that all who were able to lift a club, man,
+woman, or child, should muster for "the surround." When all had
+congregated, they moved in rude procession to the nearest point
+of the valley in question, and there halted. Another course of
+smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians are so fond, took
+place among the chiefs. Directions were then issued for the
+horsemen to make a circuit of about seven miles, so as to
+encompass the herd. When this was done, the whole mounted force
+dashed off simultaneously, at full speed, shouting and yelling at
+the top of their voices. In a short space of time the antelopes,
+started from their hiding-places, came bounding from all points
+into the valley. The riders, now gradually contracting their
+circle, brought them nearer and nearer to the spot where the
+senior chief, surrounded by the elders, male and female, were
+seated in supervision of the chase. The antelopes, nearly
+exhausted with fatigue and fright, and bewildered by perpetual
+whooping, made no effort to break through the ring of the
+hunters, but ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and
+child beat them down with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that
+species of antelope hunting, technically called "a surround."
+
+
+
+                              47.
+                                
+ A festive winter   Conversion of the Shoshonies   Visit of two
+  free trappers    Gayety in the camp   A touch of the tender
+    passion   The reclaimed squaw   An Indian fine lady   An
+      elopement   A pursuit   Market value of a bad wife.
+
+GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was
+overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and
+haunches, buffalo tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly
+cooking at every fire; and the whole atmosphere was redolent with
+the savory fumes of roast meat. It was, indeed, a continual
+"feast of fat things," and though there might be a lack of "wine
+upon the lees," yet we have shown that a substitute was
+occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol.
+
+Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with
+great propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few
+trifles from their good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs
+were turned; but then, they always treated them to their faces
+with the utmost deference and respect, and good-humoredly vied
+with the trappers in all kinds of feats of activity and mirthful
+sports. The two tribes maintained toward each other, also a
+friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville reason to
+hope that all past animosity was effectually buried.
+
+The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this
+social manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in
+a new form. The senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking
+man, and a man of observation. He had been among the Nez Perces,
+listened to their new code of morality and religion received from
+the white men, and attended their devotional exercises. He had
+observed the effect of all this, in elevating the tribe in the
+estimation of the white men; and determined, by the same means,
+to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their ignorant
+rivals, the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and
+promulgated among them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship
+of the Nez Perces; recommending the same to their adoption. The
+Shoshonies were struck with the novelty, at least, of the
+measure, and entered into it with spirit. They began to observe
+Sundays and holidays, and to have their devotional dances, and
+chants, and other ceremonials, about which the ignorant Eutaws
+knew nothing; while they exerted their usual competition in
+shooting and horseracing, and the renowned game of hand.
+
+Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this
+motley community of white and red men, when, one morning, two
+stark free trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and
+mounted on steeds as fine and as fiery as themselves, and all
+jingling with hawks' bells, came galloping, with whoop and
+halloo, into the camp.
+
+They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur
+Company, in the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old
+comrades of Captain Bonneville's company a visit. An idea may be
+formed from the scenes we have already given of conviviality in
+the wilderness, of the manner in which these game birds were
+received by those of their feather in the camp; what feasting,
+what revelling, what boasting, what bragging, what ranting and
+roaring, and racing and gambling, and squabbling and fighting,
+ensued among these boon companions. Captain Bonneville, it is
+true, maintained always a certain degree of law and order in his
+camp, and checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in their
+seasons of idleness and relaxation require a degree of license
+and indulgence, to repay them for the long privations and almost
+incredible hardships of their periods of active service.
+
+In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the
+tender passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the
+scene. Among the Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and
+Shoshonies, the free trappers discovered two, who had whilom
+figured as their squaws. These connections frequently take place
+for a season, and sometimes continue for years, if not
+perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free trapper
+starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition.
+
+In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain
+their belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under
+their protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an
+Indian girl, all that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her
+own race -- whose gait, and garb, and bravery he emulates -- with
+all that is gallant and glorious in the white man. And then the
+indulgence with which he treats her, the finery in which he decks
+her out, the state in which she moves, the sway she enjoys over
+both his purse and person; instead of being the drudge and slave
+of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and build his
+lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry
+blows. No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring
+belle of the wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian
+brave.
+
+With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily
+arranged. 'The beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench,
+that had been taken prisoner, in some war excursion, by a
+Shoshonie. She was readily ransomed for a few articles of
+trifling value; and forthwith figured about the camp in fine
+array, "with rings on her fingers, and bells on her toes," and a
+tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy, admiration, and
+abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working squaws of
+her acquaintance.
+
+As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had
+become the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another
+wife, of older date than the one in question; who, therefore,
+took command in his household, and treated his new spouse as a
+slave; but the latter was the wife of his last fancy, his latest
+caprice; and was precious in his eyes. All attempt to bargain
+with him, therefore, was useless; the very proposition was
+repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of the trapper was
+roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He
+endeavored to prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with
+him. His horses were fleet, the winter nights were long and dark,
+before daylight they would be beyond the reach of pursuit; and
+once at the encampment in Green River Valley, they might set the
+whole band of Shoshonies at defiance.
+
+The Indian girl listened and longed.  Her heart yearned after the
+ease and splendor of condition of a trapper's bride, and throbbed
+to be free from the capricious control of the premier squaw; but
+she dreaded the failure of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie
+husband. They parted; the Indian girl in tears, and the madcap
+trapper more than ever, with his thwarted passion.
+
+Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy
+of the Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was
+heard in his lodge, with the sound of blows, and of female
+weeping and lamenting. At night, as the trapper lay tossing on
+his pallet, a soft voice whispered at the door of his lodge. His
+mistress stood trembling before him.  She was ready to follow
+whithersoever he should lead.
+
+In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure
+and swift of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they
+were brought up and saddled; and in a few moments he and his
+prize were careering over the snow, with which the whole country
+was covered. In the eagerness of escape, they had made no
+provision for their journey; days must elapse before they could
+reach their haven of safety, and mountains and prairies be
+traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the
+present, however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their
+horses forward over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the
+howling of every blast, they heard the yell of the pursuer.
+
+At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting
+his swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the
+trail of the fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking
+them. The winds, however, which swept the valley, had drifted the
+light snow into the prints made by the horses' hoofs. In a little
+while he lost all trace of them, and was completely thrown out of
+the chase. He knew, however, the situation of the camp toward
+which they were bound, and a direct course through the mountains,
+by which he might arrive there sooner than the fugitives. Through
+the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his course by day
+and night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It was some
+time before the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had
+they traversed the wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger
+and fatigue, and their horses faltering under them. The first
+object that met their eyes on entering the camp was the Shoshonie
+brave. He rushed, knife in hand, to plunge it in the heart that
+had proved false to him. The trapper threw himself before the
+cowering form of his mistress, and, exhausted as he was, prepared
+for a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie paused. His habitual awe of
+the white man checked his arm; the trapper's friends crowded to
+the spot, and arrested him. A parley ensued. A kind of crim. con.
+adjudication took place; such as frequently occurs in civilized
+life. A couple of horses were declared to be a fair compensation
+for the loss of a woman who had previously lost her heart; with
+this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion.  He
+returned to Captain Bonneville's camp, somewhat crestfallen, it
+is true; but parried the officious condolements of his friends by
+observing that two good horses were very good pay for one bad
+wife.
+
+
+
+                              48.
+                                
+Breaking up of winter quarters   Move to Green River   A trapper
+and his rifle   An arrival in camp   A free trapper and his squaw
+           in distress   Story of a Blackfoot belle.
+
+THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the
+hills, and from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time
+for decamping had arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party
+to the caches, who brought away all the effects concealed there,
+and on the 1st of April (1835) , the camp was broken up, and
+every one on the move. The white men and their allies, the Eutaws
+and Shoshonies, parted with many regrets and sincere expressions
+of good-will; for their intercourse throughout the winter had
+been of the most friendly kind.
+
+Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham's Fork, and
+reached the Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the
+banks of which they remained during the residue of the spring.
+During this time, they were conscious that a band of hostile
+Indians were hovering about their vicinity, watching for an
+opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant precautions of
+Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such
+dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his
+rifle even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his
+comrades, he takes it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he
+lays it beside him, ready to be snatched up; when he goes out, he
+takes it up as regularly as a citizen would his walking-staff.
+His rifle is his constant friend and protector.
+
+On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the
+Wind River Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent
+pasturage, to give their horses a chance to recruit their
+strength for a long journey; for it was Captain Bonneville's
+intention to shape his course to the settlements; having already
+been detained by the complication of his duties, and by various
+losses and impediments, far beyond the time specified in his
+leave of absence.
+
+While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind
+River Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the
+camp, and accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a
+party of thirty hunters, who had just passed through the
+neighborhood, but whom he had abandoned in consequence of their
+ill treatment of a brother trapper; whom they had cast off from
+their party, and left with his bag and baggage, and an Indian
+wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate prairie. The
+horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this helpless
+pair, and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their
+effects to the camp.
+
+The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in
+distress, especially when there was a woman in the case; horses
+were immediately dispatched, with an escort, to aid the
+unfortunate couple. The next day they made their appearance with
+all their effects; the man, a stalwart mountaineer, with a
+peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot beauty,
+arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper's bride.
+
+Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain
+Bonneville entered into conversation with her, and obtained from
+her many particulars concerning the habits and customs of her
+tribe; especially their wars and huntings. They pride themselves
+upon being the "best legs of the mountains," and hunt the buffalo
+on foot. This is done in spring time, when the frosts have thawed
+and the ground is soft. The heavy buffaloes then sink over their
+hoofs at every step, and are easily overtaken by the Blackfeet,
+whose fleet steps press lightly on the surface. It is said,
+however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side of the Rocky
+Mountains are fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic side;
+those upon the plains of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken
+by a horse that would outstrip the same animal in the
+neighborhood of the Platte, the usual hunting ground of the
+Blackfeet. In the course of further conversation, Captain
+Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her whole story; which gave
+a picture of savage life, and of the drudgery and hardships to
+which an Indian wife is subject.
+
+"I was the wife," said she, "of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served
+him faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so
+well provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning,
+and placed water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he
+found his meat cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there
+was nothing to delay him. I searched the thought that was in his
+heart, to save him the trouble of speaking. When I went abroad on
+errands for him, the chiefs and warriors smiled upon me, and the
+young braves spoke soft things, in secret; but my feet were in
+the straight path, and my eyes could see nothing but him.
+
+"When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but
+I? When he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and
+he entered without further thought. While he sat and smoked, I
+unloaded his horses; tied them to the stakes, brought in their
+loads, and was quickly at his feet. If his moccasins were wet I
+took them off and put on others which were dry and warm. I
+dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase. He could never
+say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the antelope,
+and the buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else
+was done by me. When our people moved their camp, he mounted his
+horse and rode away; free as though he had fallen from the skies.
+He had nothing to do with the labor of the camp; it was I that
+packed the horses and led them on the journey. When we halted in
+the evening, and he sat with the other braves and smoked, it was
+I that pitched his lodge; and when he came to eat and sleep, his
+supper and his bed were ready.
+
+"I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was
+always on his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his
+dog; and not his wife.
+
+"Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother
+saw how I was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to
+leave my tyrant and fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would
+protect me? My brother was not a chief; he could not save me from
+blows and wounds, perhaps death.  At length I was persuaded. I
+followed my brother from the village. He pointed away to the Nez
+Perces, and bade me go and live in peace among them. We parted.
+On the third day I saw the lodges of the Nez Perces before me. 1
+paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on; but my horse
+neighed, and I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to gallop
+forward. In a little while I was in the midst of the lodges. As I
+sat silent on my horse, the people gathered round me, and
+inquired whence I came. I told my story. A chief now wrapped his
+blanket close around him, and bade me dismount. I obeyed. He took
+my horse to lead him away.  My heart grew small within me. I
+felt, on parting with my horse, as if my last friend was gone. I
+had no words, and my eyes were dry. As he led off my horse a
+young brave stepped forward. 'Are you a chief of the people?'
+cried he. 'Do we listen to you in council, and follow you in
+battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp from the dogs of
+Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your face! The
+stranger is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a
+warrior at her side, your heart would not be big enough to take
+her horse. But he is yours. By right of war you may claim him;
+but look!' - his bow was drawn, and the arrow ready! - 'you never
+shall cross his back!' The arrow pierced the heart of the horse,
+and he fell dead.
+
+"An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her
+lodge; my heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst
+forth with tears; like the frozen fountains in springtime. She
+never changed; but as the days passed away, was still a mother to
+me. The people were loud in praise of the young brave, and the
+chief was ashamed. I lived in peace.
+
+"A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me
+for his wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with
+kindness, and I have taught him the language of my people. As we
+were travelling this way, some of the Blackfeet warriors beset
+us, and carried off the horses of the party. We followed, and my
+husband held a parley with them. The guns were laid down, and the
+pipe was lighted; but some of the white men attempted to seize
+the horses by force, and then a battle began. The snow was deep,
+the white men sank into it at every step; but the red men, with
+their snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and drove
+off many of the horses in sight of their owners. With those that
+remained we resumed our journey. At length words took place
+between the leader of the party and my husband. He took away our
+horses, which had escaped in the battle, and turned us from his
+camp. My husband had one good friend among the trappers. That is
+he (pointing to the man who had asked assistance for them). He is
+a good man. His heart is big. When he came in from hunting, and
+found that we had been driven away, he gave up all his wages, and
+followed us, that he might speak good words for us to the white
+captain."
+
+
+
+                              49.
+                                
+Rendezvous at Wind River   Campaign of Montero and his brigade in
+the Crow country   Wars between the Crows and Blackfeet   Death
+   of Arapooish   Blackfeet lurkers   Sagacity of the horse  
+     Dependence of the hunter on his horse   Return to the
+                          settlements.
+
+ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved
+to the forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. 
+In a few days he was joined there by the brigade of Montero,
+which had been sent, in the preceding year, to beat up the Crow
+country, and afterward proceed to the Arkansas.  Montero had
+followed the early part of his instructions; after trapping upon
+some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder River. Here he
+fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated him with
+unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter
+quarters among them.
+
+The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with
+their old enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had
+picked off the flower of their warriors in various engagements,
+and among the rest, Arapooish, the friend of the white men. That
+sagacious and magnanimous chief had beheld, with grief, the
+ravages which war was making in his tribe, and that it was
+declining in force, and must eventually be destroyed unless some
+signal blow could be struck to retrieve its fortunes. In a
+pitched battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his
+warriors, urging them to set everything at hazard in one furious
+charge; which done, he led the way into the thickest of the foe.
+He was soon separated from his men, and fell covered with wounds,
+but his self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet were
+defeated; and from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart,
+and were frequently successful.
+
+Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered
+that the Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day
+the hunters came galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a
+band of the enemy was at hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on
+their horses, and dashed out in squadrons in pursuit. They
+overtook the retreating enemy in the midst of a plain. A
+desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage of numbers,
+and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the Blackfeet
+were slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of
+willows, where the horse could not enter; whence they plied their
+bows vigorously.
+
+The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
+bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of
+the best mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of
+their number then advanced alone, with that martial air and
+equestrian grace for which the tribe is noted. When within an
+arrow's flight of the thicket, he loosened his rein, urged his
+horse to full speed, threw his body on the opposite side, so as
+to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe; in this way
+he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows from
+under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the
+saddle, he wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to
+his companions, who received him with yells of applause.
+
+Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the
+Blackfeet were not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The
+victors feared to drive desperate men to extremities, so they
+forbore to attempt the thicket. Toward night they gave over the
+attack, and returned all-glorious with the scalps of the slain.
+Then came on the usual feasts and triumphs, the scalp-dance of
+warriors round the ghastly trophies, and all the other fierce
+revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves had finished with
+the scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women and
+children, and made the objects of new parades and dances. They
+were then treasured up as invaluable trophies and decorations by
+the braves who had won them.
+
+It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either
+through policy or fear, is treated with more charity than that of
+an Indian. The warrior who won it is entitled to his triumph if
+he demands it. In such case, the war party alone dance round the
+scalp. It is then taken down, and the shagged frontlet of a
+buffalo substituted in its place, and abandoned to the triumph
+and insults of the million.
+
+To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape
+from the extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began
+to be oppressive, Montero moved to the distance of several miles
+from their camps, and there formed a winter cantonment of huts.
+He now maintained a vigilant watch at night. Their horses, which
+were turned loose to graze during the day, under heedful eyes,
+were brought in at night, and shut up in strong pens, built of
+large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during a portion of the
+winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find but little
+sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above the
+snow; but they were in general driven to browse the twigs and
+tender branches of the trees. When they were turned out in the
+morning, the first moments of freedom from the confinement of the
+pen were spent in frisking and gambolling. This done, they went
+soberly and sadly to work, to glean their scanty subsistence for
+the day. In the meantime the men stripped the bark of the
+cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the poor horses would
+return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air, the moment
+they saw their owners approaching them with blankets filled with
+cotton-wood bark, their whole demeanor underwent a change. A
+universal neighing and capering took place; they would rush
+forward, smell to the blankets, paw the earth, snort, whinny and
+prance round with head and tail erect, until the blankets were
+opened, and the welcome provender spread before them. These
+evidences of intelligence and gladness were frequently recounted
+by the trappers as proving the sagacity of the animal.
+
+These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as
+in some respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and
+experienced trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark
+nights and times of peril, gives heedful attention to all the
+sounds and signs of the horses. No enemy enters nor approaches
+the camp without attracting their notice, and their movements not
+only give a vague alarm, but it is said, will even indicate to
+the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the danger threatens.
+
+In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie,
+cutting up the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his
+faithful horse as a sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and
+smells all round him, and by his starting and whinnying, gives
+notice of the approach of strangers. There seems to be a dumb
+communion and fellowship, a sort of fraternal sympathy between
+the hunter and his horse. They mutually rely upon each other for
+company and protection; and nothing is more difficult, it is
+said, than to surprise an experienced hunter on the prairie while
+his old and favorite steed is at his side.
+
+Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the
+Crows, and fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet
+marauders discovered his cantonment, and began to haunt the
+vicinity, He kept up a vigilant watch, however, and foiled every
+attempt of the enemy, who, at length, seemed to have given up in
+despair, and abandoned the neighborhood. The trappers relaxed
+their vigilance, therefore, and one night, after a day of severe
+labor, no guards were posted, and the whole camp was soon asleep.
+Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers were roused by
+the trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole party
+were immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars
+were down; but no enemy was to he seen or heard, and the horses
+being all found hard by, it was supposed the bars had been left
+down through negligence. All were once more asleep, when, in
+about an hour there was a second alarm, and it was discovered
+that several horses were missing. The rest were mounted, and so
+spirited a pursuit took place, that eighteen of the number
+carried off were regained, and but three remained in possession
+of the enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about the camp the
+preceding day. In the morning it was discovered that a Blackfoot
+was entrapped by one of them, but had succeeded in dragging it
+off. His trail was followed for a long distance which he must
+have limped alone. At length he appeared to have fallen in with
+some of his comrades, who had relieved him from his painful
+encumbrance.
+
+These were the leading incidents of Montero's campaign in the
+Crow country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July,
+in rough hunters' style, with hearty conviviality; after which
+Captain Bonneville made his final arrangements.  Leaving Montero
+with a brigade of trappers to open another campaign, he put
+himself at the head of the residue of his men, and set off on his
+return to civilized life. We shall not detail his journey along
+the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point to point of the
+wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier
+settlements on the 22d of August.
+
+Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been
+taken for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men
+were ragged almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of
+aspect during three years of wandering in the wilderness. A few
+hours in a populous town, however, produced a magical
+metamorphosis.  Hats of the most ample brim and longest nap;
+coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and pantaloons of the
+most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn trapper's
+equipments; and the happy wearers might be seen strolling about
+in all directions, scattering their silver like sailors just from
+a cruise.
+
+The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
+excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the
+thronged resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have
+looked back to the wilderness with regret. "Though the prospect,"
+says he, "of once more tasting the blessings of peaceful society,
+and passing days and nights under the calm guardianship of the
+laws, was not without its attractions; yet to those of us whose
+whole lives had been spent in the stirring excitement and
+perpetual watchfulness of adventures in the wilderness, the
+change was far from promising an increase of that contentment and
+inward satisfaction most conducive to happiness.  He who, like
+myself, has roved almost from boyhood among the children of the
+forest, and over the unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the
+western wastes, will not be startled to learn, that
+notwithstanding all the fascinations of the world on this
+civilized side of the mountains, I would fain make my bow to the
+splendors and gayeties of the metropolis, and plunge again amidst
+the hardships and perils of the wilderness."
+
+We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
+satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is
+actually in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier,
+where we hope he may meet with further opportunities of indulging
+his peculiar tastes, and of collecting graphic and characteristic
+details of the great western wilds and their motley inhabitants.
+
+ --
+
+We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their
+wild inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which
+we have been anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that
+this singular state of things is full of mutation, and must soon
+undergo great changes, if not entirely pass away.  The fur trade
+itself, which has given life to all this portraiture, is
+essentially evanescent.  Rival parties of trappers soon exhaust
+the streams, especially when competition renders them heedless
+and wasteful of the beaver. The furbearing animals extinct, a
+complete change will come over the scene; the gay free trapper
+and his steed, decked out in wild array, and tinkling with bells
+and trinketry; the savage war chief, plumed and painted and ever
+on the prowl; the traders' cavalcade, winding through defiles or
+over naked plains, with the stealthy war party lurking on its
+trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse in
+the midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper,
+the fierce skirmish among rocks and cliffs  --  all this romance
+of savage life, which yet exists among the mountains, will then
+exist but in frontier story, and seem like the fictions of
+chivalry or fairy tale.
+
+Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will
+succeed among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just
+as opposite, perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The
+great Chippewyan chain of mountains, and the sandy and volcanic
+plains which extend on either side, are represented as incapable
+of cultivation. The pasturage which prevails there during a
+certain portion of the year, soon withers under the aridity of
+the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes. An immense
+belt of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several hundred
+miles in width, must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness,
+intervening between the abodes of civilization, and affording a
+last refuge to the Indian. Here roving tribes of hunters, living
+in tents or lodges, and following the migrations of the game, may
+lead a life of savage independence, where there is nothing to
+tempt the cupidity of the white man. The amalgamation of various
+tribes, and of white men of every nation, will in time produce
+hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of the Caucasus. 
+Possessed as they are of immense droves of horses should they
+continue their present predatory and warlike habits, they may in
+time become a scourge to the civilized frontiers on either side
+of the mountains, as they are at present a terror to the
+traveller and trader.
+
+The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the
+policy of establishing military posts and a mounted force to
+protect our traders in their journeys across the great western
+wilds, and of pushing the outposts into the very heart of the
+singular wilderness we have laid open, so as to maintain some
+degree of sway over the country, and to put an end to the kind of
+"blackmail," levied on all occasions by the savage "chivalry of
+the mountains."
+
+
+
+                            Appendix
+                                
+       Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West
+
+WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western
+campaigning; yet we cannot close this work without subjoining
+some particulars concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr.
+Wyeth; anecdotes of whose enterprise have, occasionally, been
+interwoven in the party-colored web of our narrative. Wyeth
+effected his intention of establishing a trading post on the
+Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall. Here, for the first time, the
+American flag was unfurled to the breeze that sweeps the great
+naked wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving twelve men here,
+with a stock of goods, to trade with the neighboring tribes, he
+prosecuted his journey to the Columbia; where he established
+another post, called Fort Williams, on Wappatoo Island, at the
+mouth of the Wallamut. This was to be the head factory of his
+company; whence they were to carry on their fishing and trapping
+operations, and their trade with the interior; and where they
+were to receive and dispatch their annual ship.
+
+The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had
+observed that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free
+trappers, as well as the Indians west of the mountains, depended
+for their supplies upon goods brought from St. Louis; which, in
+consequence of the expenses and risks of a long land carriage,
+were furnished them at an immense advance on first cost. He had
+an idea that they might be much more cheaply supplied from the
+Pacific side. Horses would cost much less on the borders of the
+Columbia than at St. Louis: the transportation by land was much
+shorter; and through a country much more safe from the hostility
+of savage tribes; which, on the route from and to St. Louis,
+annually cost the lives of many men. On this idea, he grounded
+his plan. He combined the salmon fishery with the fur trade. A
+fortified trading post was to be established on the Columbia, to
+carry on a trade with the natives for salmon and peltries, and to
+fish and trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship was to
+come from the United States, to bring out goods for the interior
+trade, and to take home the salmon and furs which had been
+collected. Part of the goods, thus brought out, were to be
+dispatched to the mountains, to supply the trapping companies and
+the Indian tribes, in exchange for their furs; which were to be
+brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in the next annual
+ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The profits on
+the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses of the
+ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home,
+would cost nothing as to freight.
+
+His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
+perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have
+met with, prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the
+mind to conceive, and the energy to execute extensive and
+striking plans. He had once more reared the American flag in the
+lost domains of Astoria; and had he been enabled to maintain the
+footing he had so gallantly effected, he might have regained for
+his country the opulent trade of the Columbia, of which our
+statesmen have negligently suffered us to be dispossessed.
+
+It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents
+and cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They
+were such as all undertakings of the kind, involving combined
+operations by sea and land, are liable to. What he most wanted,
+was sufficient capital to enable him to endure incipient
+obstacles and losses; and to hold on until success had time to
+spring up from the midst of disastrous experiments.
+
+It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been
+compelled to dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to
+the Hudson's Bay Company; who, it is but justice to say, have,
+according to his own account, treated him throughout the whole of
+his enterprise, with great fairness, friendship, and liberality.
+That company, therefore, still maintains an unrivalled sway over
+the whole country washed by the Columbia and its tributaries. It
+has, in fact, as far as its chartered powers permit, followed out
+the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr. Astor, when he founded
+his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. From their
+emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every
+direction, to supply the interior posts, to trade with the
+natives, and to trap upon the various streams. These thread the
+rivers, traverse the plains, penetrate to the heart of the
+mountains, extend their enterprises northward, to the Russian
+possessions, and southward, to the confines of California. Their
+yearly supplies are received by sea, at Vancouver; and thence
+their furs and peltries are shipped to London. They likewise
+maintain a considerable commerce, in wheat and lumber, with the
+Pacific islands, and to the north, with the Russian settlements.
+
+Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation
+only, in the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but
+tenants on sufferance; yet have they quietly availed themselves
+of the original oversight, and subsequent supineness of the
+American government, to establish a monopoly of the trade of the
+river and its dependencies; and are adroitly proceeding to
+fortify themselves in their usurpation, by securing all the
+strong points of the country.
+
+Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the
+removal of the main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830;
+and is now kept up as a fortified post and trading house. All the
+places accessible to shipping have been taken possession of, and
+posts recently established at them by the company.
+
+The great capital of this association; their long established
+system; their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their
+internal organization, which makes every thing go on with the
+regularity of a machine; and the low wages of their people, who
+are mostly Canadians, give them great advantages over the
+American traders: nor is it likely the latter will ever be able
+to maintain any footing in the land, until the question of
+territorial right is adjusted between the two countries. The
+sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious
+to national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred
+over; and every year is adding to the difficulties which environ
+it.
+
+The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of
+the Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of
+the country. Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is
+capable of being rendered a considerable source of profit; the
+great valleys of the lower country, below the elevated volcanic
+plateau, are calculated to give sustenance to countless flocks
+and herds, and to sustain a great population of graziers and
+agriculturists.
+
+ Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut;
+from which the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its
+supplies. Here, the company holds mills and farms; and has
+provided for some of its superannuated officers and servants.
+This valley, above the falls, is about fifty miles wide, and
+extends a great distance to the south. The climate is mild, being
+sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while the soil, for
+richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri lands.
+The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated
+for a great grazing country. All the best horses used by the
+company for the mountains are raised there. The valley is of such
+happy temperature, that grass grows there throughout the year,
+and cattle may be left out to pasture during the winter.
+
+These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the
+future settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en
+folded in the embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which,
+though at present they lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye
+of the trader and trapper, present but barren wastes, would, in
+the hands of skilful agriculturists and husbandmen, soon assume a
+different aspect, and teem with waving crops, or be covered with
+flocks and herds.
+
+The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a
+company restricted in its trade, can be but partially called
+forth; but in the hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade
+with the East Indies, would be brought into quickening activity;
+and might soon realize the dream of Mr. Astor, in giving rise to
+a flourishing commercial empire.
+
+
+
+Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast 
+
+THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from
+Mr. Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the
+question as to the manner in which America has been peopled.
+
+     "Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833,
+     a Japanese junk was wrecked on the northwest coast, in
+     the neighborhood of Queen Charlotte's Island; and that
+     all but two of the crew, then much reduced by
+     starvation and disease, during a long drift across the
+     Pacific, were killed by the natives? The two fell into
+     the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, and were sent to
+     England. I saw them, on my arrival at Vancouver, in
+     1834." 
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Instructions to Captain Bonneville from the Major-General
+Commanding the Army of the United States.
+
+Copy
+
+                                      Head Quarters of the Army. 
+                                      Washington 29th July 1831. 
+
+Sir,
+
+The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of
+enabling you to carry into execution your designs of exploring
+the country to the Rocky Mountains, and beyond with a view of
+assertaining the nature and character of the various tribes of
+Indians inhabiting those regions; the trade which might be
+profitably carried on with them, the quality of the soil, the
+productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate, the
+Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various
+parts of the Country within the limits of the Territories
+belonging to the United States, between our frontier, and the
+Pacific; has been duly considered, and submitted to the War
+Department, for approval, and has been sanctioned. 
+
+You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army untill
+October 1833. 
+
+It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in
+reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with
+yourself, and all that you required was the permission from the
+proper authority to undertake the enterprise. You will naturally
+in providing your self for the expedition, provide suitable
+instruments, and especially the best Maps of the interior to be
+found. It is desirable besides what is enumerated as the object
+of enterprise that you note particularly the number of Warriors
+that may belong to each tribe, or nation that you may meet with:
+their alliances with other tribes and their relative position as
+to a state of peace or war, and whether their friendly or warlike
+dispositions towards each other are recent or of long standing.
+You will gratify us by describing the manner of their making War,
+of the mode of subsisting themselves during a state of war, and a
+state of peace, their Arms, and the effect of them, whether they
+act on foot or on horse back, detailing the discipline, and
+manuvers of the war parties, the power of their horses, size and
+general discription; in short any information which you may
+conceive would be useful to the Government.  You will avail
+yourself of every opportunity of informing us of your position
+and progress, and at the expiration of your leave of absence will
+join your proper station.
+
+I have the honor to be Sir,
+Your Ot St
+
+(Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg
+
+To Cap: B. L E Bonneville
+7th Regt Infantry
+New York
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg Etext of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville
+
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