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diff --git a/old/1372.txt b/old/1372.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c993e70 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1372.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11995 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by +Washington Irving + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville + Digested From His Journal + +Author: Washington Irving + +Release Date: February 18, 2006 [EBook #1372] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN *** + + + + +Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger + + + + + +THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE + +Digested from his journal + +by Washington Irving + + +Originally published in 1837 + + + + +Introductory Notice + + +WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria, +it was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with +the subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at +the table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur +trade in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various +persons of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own +great undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to +the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia. + +Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain +Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of +enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the +soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme +of the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him +may not be unacceptable. + +Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old +emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his +abode in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for +the sordid struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy +temperament, a festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that +made him proof against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar; +well acquainted with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics. +His book was his elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire, +Corneille, or Racine, or of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he +forgot the world and all its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer +weather, seated under one of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of +St. Paul's church in Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by +his side, his eyes riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul +so engaged, as to lose all consciousness of the passing throng or the +passing hour. + +Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his +father's bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter +was somewhat disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He +was educated at our national Military Academy at West Point, where he +acquitted himself very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which +he has ever since continued. + +The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for +a number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West. +Here he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders, +mountain trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so +excited by their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their +accounts of vast and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an +expedition to the Rocky Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart, +and an enterprise to explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his +ambition. + +By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality. +Having made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading +enterprise beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave +of absence, and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the +major general in chief, on his offering to combine public utility with +his private projects, and to collect statistical information for the War +Department concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit +in the course of his journeyings. + +Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the +ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand +dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom +any thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which +belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great +focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any +scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to +meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been +his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship +for him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain; +introduced him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little +while an association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised +to carry the proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient +persons in this association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a +youth, had accompanied one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to +his commercial establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished +himself by his activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr. +Seton was one of the American youths who were at Astoria at the time +of its surrender to the British, and who manifested such grief and +indignation at seeing the flag of their country hauled down. The hope +of seeing that flag once more planted on the shores of the Columbia, may +have entered into his motives for engaging in the present enterprise. + +Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition +into the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after +year elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence +expired, yet no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington. +He was considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from +the army list. + +It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob +Astor, at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was +then just returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the +mountains, and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the +hopes of being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn, +his wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity +and his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like +Corporal Trim in his campaigns, he had "satisfied the sentiment," +and that was all. In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted +soldier, and had inherited too much of his father's temperament, to make +a scheming trapper, or a thrifty bargainer. + +There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that +prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and +well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service, +gave him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open, +and engaging; well browned by the sun, and had something of a French +expression. He had a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he +kept his hat on, the look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but +the moment his head was uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a +few more years than he was really entitled to. + +Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with +the Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him +a number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled +modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of +voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature +of his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking +personage before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related. + +In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of +Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow +adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered +with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing +at a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large +barrack room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and +war dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with +pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting. +In a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at +court, by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his +travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he +sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of +somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures +of authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes. + +The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently +put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before +the world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the +mountains, and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red +men, among whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress +of his character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his +susceptibility to the grand and beautiful. + +That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have +occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various +sources, especially from the conversations and journals of some of the +captain's contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes. +I have also given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation, +during an excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of +civilization; as I before observed, however, the work is substantially +the narrative of the worthy captain, and many of its most graphic +passages are but little varied from his own language. + +I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his +manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I +found him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which, +I believe, possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary +documents of the kind, of being sincere, and being merited. + +To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor, +whose anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants, +have endeared him to the service as The Soldier's Friend; and whose +general amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and +unwearied benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The +Friend of Man, this work is inscribed, etc. + + +WASHINGTON IRVING + + + + +1. + + State of the fur trade of the--Rocky Mountains--American + enterprises--General--Ashley and his associates--Sublette, a + famous leader--Yearly rendezvous among the mountains-- + Stratagems and dangers of the trade--Bands of trappers-- + Indian banditti--Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers--Traders + of the--Far West--Character and habits of the trapper + +IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr. +John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade +at the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that +enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and +of the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its +dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have +stated, likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government +in neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the +American flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate +himself in the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the +post was formally given up by the British government, though still +occupied by the Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty +in the country has been virtually lost to the United States; and it will +cost both governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on +that just and rightful footing on which they would readily have been +placed had the proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now +state a few particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader +up to the period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for +the circumstances of our narrative. + +In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr. +Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further +attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the +Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country. +They did not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat +surreptitiously attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and +their old rivals, the Hudson's Bay Company; which was carried on at +great cost and sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It +ended in the ruin of most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and +the merging of the relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival +association. From that time, the Hudson's Bay Company enjoyed a +monopoly of the Indian trade from the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky +Mountains, and for a considerable extent north and south. They removed +their emporium from Astoria to Fort Vancouver, a strong post on the left +bank of the Columbia River, about sixty miles from its mouth; whence +they furnished their interior posts, and sent forth their brigades of +trappers. + +The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United +States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the +great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra +incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808, +by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped +upon the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships +sustained by Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other +intrepid Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, +appeared for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction. +The American traders contented themselves with following up the head +branches of the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams +on the Atlantic side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those +great snow-crowned sierras. + +One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General +Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the +prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West. +In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post +on the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year +pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of +the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name +of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by +others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of +trapping organized beyond the mountains. + +It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and +perseverance of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these +early expeditions, and first broke their way through a wilderness where +everything was calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse +the most dreary and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes, +uninhabited by man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel +savages. They knew nothing of the country beyond the verge of their +horizon, and had to gather information as they wandered. They beheld +volcanic plains stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled +up to the clouds, and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing +of their defiles, nor how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They +launched themselves in frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither +their swift currents would carry them, or what rocks and shoals and +rapids they might encounter in their course. They had to be continually +on the alert, too, against the mountain tribes, who beset every +defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or attacked them in their night +encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of trappers that first entered +into these regions, three-fifths are said to have fallen by the hands of +savage foes. + +In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up, +originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these +we may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William +Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of +romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various +modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold +out his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded +him was Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has +become renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of +game descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of +Boon, having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian +warfare, and killed in one of the contests of the "Bloody Ground." We +shall frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to +the credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name +of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert +Campbell were prominent members. + +In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and +excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once +more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder +of the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the +company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown, +who still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued +between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and +the trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great +tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these +formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory +enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of +adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers, +who either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the +service of one or other of the main companies. + +The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions, +from the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish +settlements of California, have been traversed and ransacked in every +direction by bands of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is +scarcely a mountain pass, or defile, that is not known and threaded in +their restless migrations, nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by +the lonely trapper. + +The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the +mountains. Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that +is to say, partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move +about from place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic +they wish to monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they +employ in trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands, +or "brigades" as they are termed, of trappers in various directions, +assigning to each a portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground. +In the months of June and July, when there is an interval between the +hunting seasons, a general rendezvous is held, at some designated place +in the mountains, where the affairs of the past year are settled by the +resident partners, and the plans for the following year arranged. + +To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their +widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their +year's campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to +traffic their peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort +hither also, to sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their +services for the next hunting season. + +To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from +its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some +experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the +resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year's +machinery in motion. + +Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are +anxious to discover each other's plans and movements, they generally +contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart. +An eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of +supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this +purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic +frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that +can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition, +scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the +greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free +trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able, +also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to +get the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the +hunting and trapping grounds. + +A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping +competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and +outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of +the Indian tribes; to cross each other's plans; to mislead each other as +to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian +trader is the disadvantage of his competitor. + +The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of +the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their +most profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man +has opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no +idea. The introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful +hunters, but at the same time, more formidable foes; some of them, +incorrigibly savage and warlike in their nature, have found the +expeditions of the fur traders grand objects of profitable adventure. +To waylay and harass a band of trappers with their pack-horses, when +embarrassed in the rugged defiles of the mountains, has become as +favorite an exploit with these Indians as the plunder of a caravan to +the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet, who were such terrors +in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria, still continue their +predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to greater system. They +know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to waylay them on +their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons, and where to +hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper, therefore, +is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his weapons in his +hands. + +A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system +of things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the +trade in furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the +expeditions were carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or +boatmen were the rank and file in the service of the trader, and even +the hardy "men of the north," those great rufflers and game birds, were +fain to be paddled from point to point of their migrations. + +A totally different class has now sprung up:--"the Mountaineers," the +traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue +their hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from +place to place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in +which they are engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast +plains and mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities, +seem to make them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial +race than the fur traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting +"men of the north." A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially +different from a man who cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly, +hardy, lithe, vigorous, and active; extravagant in word, and thought, +and deed; heedless of hardship; daring of danger; prodigal of the +present, and thoughtless of the future. + +A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and +those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter, +generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well +sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within +the reach of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is +comparatively free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of +the upper wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy, +self-dependent and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by +chance comes among them on his way to and from the settlements, he +is like a game-cock among the common roosters of the poultry-yard. +Accustomed to live in tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises +the comforts and is impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If +his meal is not ready in season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest +or prairie, shoots his own game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast. +With his horse and his rifle, he is independent of the world, and spurns +at all its restraints. The very superintendents at the lower posts +will not put him to mess with the common men, the hirelings of the +establishment, but treat him as something superior. + +There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says +Captain Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril, +and excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the +free trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the +trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles +a mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his +path; in vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose +his progress; let but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he +forgets all dangers and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be +seen with his traps on his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid +streams, amidst floating blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be +found with his traps swung on his back clambering the most rugged +mountains, scaling or descending the most frightful precipices, +searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse, and never before trodden +by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to his comrades, and where +he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the mountaineer, the hardy +trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly sketched it, is the +wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange and motley populace, +now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains. + +Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur +trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted +with the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the +introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their +enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far +West. + + + + +2. + + Departure from--Fort Osage--Modes of transportation--Pack- + horses--Wagons--Walker and Cerre; their characters--Buoyant + feelings on launching upon the prairies--Wild equipments of + the trappers--Their gambols and antics--Difference of + character between the American and French trappers--Agency + of the Kansas--General--Clarke--White Plume, the Kansas + chief--Night scene in a trader's camp--Colloquy between-- + White Plume and the captain--Bee-hunters--Their + expeditions--Their feuds with the Indians--Bargaining talent + of White Plume + + +IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his +departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had +enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been +in the Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and +trappers. Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western +wilderness, abound with characters of the kind, ready for any +expedition. + +The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions +of the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville +substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless +wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open +plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in +every direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines +cut through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is +often necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for +the wagons. + +In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville +thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing +the horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also +would be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or +being frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would +be more easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case +of attack in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen, +or by four mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition, +and provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party, +which was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or +lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr. +J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee, +about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit, +though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on +the frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where +he went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated, +he engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the +Pawnees; then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as +sheriff, trader, trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain +Bonneville. + +Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe, +in which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size, +light complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was +considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with +Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats +and summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies +distressing; and before the annual assemblages of people connected +with the fur trade should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting +grounds. + +The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company +and the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of +rendezvous for the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre's +Hole, a deep valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain +Bonneville intended to shape his course. + +It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy +captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters, +trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his +face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest +spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat +high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what +then must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated +by a residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region +of romance! + +His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already +experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a +renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance +and equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half +savage. Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their +garbs and accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in +barbaric style, with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of +adventurers on one of these expeditions is always animated and joyous. +The welkin rang with their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the +savages; and with boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they +passed the straggling hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts +of the frontier, they would startle their inmates by Indian yells and +war-whoops, or regale them with grotesque feats of horsemanship, +well suited to their half-savage appearance. Most of these abodes were +inhabited by men who had themselves been in similar expeditions; they +welcomed the travellers, therefore, as brother trappers, treated them +with a hunter's hospitality, and cheered them with an honest God speed +at parting. + +And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character +and quality, between the two classes of trappers, the "American" and +"French," as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant +to designate the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the +trapper of the old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others +of the western States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter, +softer, more self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife, +his lodge, and his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes +little heed of landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to +think for the common weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed +and lost. + +The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service +of the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart +of the mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark; +can retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most +perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can +appal him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping +the two kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the +light fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what +he calls the "shot-gun." We give these estimates on the authority of +a trader of long experience, and a foreigner by birth. "I consider one +American," said he, "equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity, +aptness at resources, self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In +fact, no one can cope with him as a stark tramper of the wilderness." + +Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville +had enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting +qualifications he placed great reliance. + +On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation, +and bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The +buoyant and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march +gradually subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found +the prairies saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain +seasons of the year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank +deep in the mire, the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed +and rider were completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they +reached the Kansas River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide, +entering the Missouri from the south. Though fordable in almost every +part at the end of summer and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to +construct a raft for the transportation of the wagons and effects. All +this was done in the course of the following day, and by evening, the +whole party arrived at the agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under +the superintendence of General Clarke, brother of the celebrated +traveller of the same name, who, with Lewis, made the first expedition +down the waters of the Columbia. He was living like a patriarch, +surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all snugly housed, and provided +with excellent farms. The functionary next in consequence to the +agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and, indeed, indispensable +personage in a frontier community. The Kansas resemble the Osages in +features, dress, and language; they raise corn and hunt the buffalo, +ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at the time of the +captain's visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the Nebraska, or +Platte River. + +The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among +these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything +minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of +excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy +with which their race is so often reproached. + +The personage who most attracted the captain's attention at this place +was "White Plume," the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends. +White Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited +a large stone house, built for him by order of the American government: +but the establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style. +It might be palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between +the stateliness of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the +gallant White Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see +in the gala equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy +at Washington, who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and +military coat, in contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging; +being grand officer at top, and ragged Indian at bottom. + +White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased +with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him +a day's journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the +margin of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by +the captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square, +at the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval +there was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men +cooked, ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre +of the square, with a guard stationed over them at night. + +The horses were "side lined," as it is termed: that is to say, the fore +and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as +to be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for +a time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to +the restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his +being easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that +is "foot free" is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it +were, a pivot, round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm. +The encampment of which we are speaking presented a striking scene. +The various mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing, +sitting, and reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their +weapons: while the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry +story was going on. In the middle of the camp, before the principal +lodge, sat the two chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in +soldier-like communion, the captain delighted with the opportunity of +meeting on social terms with one of the red warriors of the wilderness, +the unsophisticated children of nature. The latter was squatted on his +buffalo robe, his strong features and red skin glaring in the broad +light of a blazing fire, while he recounted astounding tales of the +bloody exploits of his tribe and himself in their wars with the Pawnees; +for there are no old soldiers more given to long campaigning stories +than Indian "braves." + +The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men; +he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders +for whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species +of hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of +the ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western +frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the +reader. + +The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a +long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living +on new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the +harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three, +and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and +a number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into +the wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south, +without any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which +strictly forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian +tribes. + +The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the +rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their +hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich +flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion, +are migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well +experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has +passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred +miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee +go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is +but recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or +Platte; and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there +about the same time. + +Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to +make a wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches +of forest on the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which +they have detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any +other bee hunter that should come upon their track. When they have +marked sufficient to fill all their casks, they turn their faces +homeward, cut down the trees as they proceed, and having loaded their +wagon with honey and wax, return well pleased to the settlements. + +Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the +white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its +having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their +lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them +and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden +with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the +native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut +to pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way +they can, happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound +rib-roasting. + +Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made +the most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western +part of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier, +and whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas +tribe. According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were +pretty fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often +treated them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the +sweets. + +It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of +having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity +to the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He +required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the +worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his +native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader. + + + + +3. + + Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills--Slabs of + sandstone Nebraska or Platte River--Scanty fare--Buffalo + skulls--Wagons turned into boats--Herds of buffalo--Cliffs + resembling castles--The chimney--Scott's Bluffs Story + connected with them--The bighorn or ahsahta--Its nature and + habits--Difference between that and the "woolly sheep," or + goat of the mountains + +FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western +course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered +miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had +to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw +bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat; +the thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning, +early, but rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant +breezes, however, which sweep these vast plains render the heats +endurable. Game was scanty, and they had to eke out their scanty fare +with wild roots and vegetables, such as the Indian potato, the wild +onion, and the prairie tomato, and they met with quantities of "red +root," from which the hunters make a very palatable beverage. The only +human being that crossed their path was a Kansas warrior, returning from +some solitary expedition of bravado or revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp +as a trophy. + +The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route +took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects. +The vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical +shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have +their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to +leave flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole +country may originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills; +but through some process of nature may have sunk to its present level; +these insulated eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid +rock. + +Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of +Red River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of +country, is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and +position of grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by +some subterranean agitation. "The resemblance," says he, "which these +very remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious +in the extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the +pre-Adamites." + +On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or +Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The +low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain +Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred +yards from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the +bottom full of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered +with that species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up +along the course of this river for several days, they were obliged, +from the scarcity of game, to put themselves upon short allowance, +and, occasionally, to kill a steer. They bore their daily labors and +privations, however, with great good humor, taking their tone, in all +probability, from the buoyant spirit of their leader. "If the weather +was inclement," said the captain, "we watched the clouds, and hoped +for a sight of the blue sky and the merry sun. If food was scanty, +we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon falling in with herds of +buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and eat." We doubt whether +the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness of his own breast, +which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him. + +There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always +equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated +with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical +figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost +innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in +thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase. + +On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where +it divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these +branches rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the +Arkansas. Up the course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well +aware, lay the route to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the +northern Mexican settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its +sources might lie among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and +foam down rugged defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction +was in the true course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute +his route to the Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from +quicksands and other dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this +neighborhood, he kept up along the south fork for two days, merely +seeking a safe fording place. At length he encamped, caused the bodies +of the wagons to be dislodged from the wheels, covered with buffalo +hide, and besmeared with a compound of tallow and ashes; thus forming +rude boats. In these, they ferried their effects across the stream, +which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift and strong current. Three +men were in each boat, to manage it; others waded across pushing the +barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A march of nine miles +took them over high rolling prairies to the north fork; their eyes being +regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo at a distance, some +careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in the natural meadows. + +Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by +musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th, +a small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of +singing birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary +of Missouri. After so many days of weary travelling through a naked, +monotonous and silent country, it was delightful once more to hear +the song of the bird, and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was +a beautiful sunset, and a sight of the glowing rays, mantling the +tree-tops and rustling branches, gladdened every heart. They pitched +their camp in the grove, kindled their fires, partook merrily of their +rude fare, and resigned themselves to the sweetest sleep they had +enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies. + +The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the +river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and +wind their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary +passes they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom +they supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara +or Crow Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at +night, and to keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged +and elevated regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a +species larger than the ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and +mountainous countries. They had reached also a great buffalo range; +Captain Bonneville ascended a high bluff, commanding an extensive view +of the surrounding plains. As far as his eye could reach, the country +seemed absolutely blackened by innumerable herds. No language, he says, +could convey an adequate idea of the vast living mass thus presented to +his eye. He remarked that the bulls and cows generally congregated in +separate herds. + +Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which +is among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The +lower part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the +summit shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet +in height, from which it derives its name. The height of the whole, +according to Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards. +It is composed of indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white +sandstone, and may be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles. + +On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated +clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches, +and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to +persuade one's self that the works of art were not mingled with these +fantastic freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott's +Bluffs, from a melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party +were descending the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail +barks were overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being +thus rendered useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting +and had to depend upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After +suffering extremely from hunger, they arrived at Laramie's Fork, a small +tributary of the north branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above +the cliffs just mentioned. Here one of the party, by the name of Scott, +was taken ill; and his companions came to a halt, until he should +recover health and strength sufficient to proceed. While they were +searching round in quest of edible roots, they discovered a fresh trail +of white men, who had evidently but recently preceded them. What was to +be done? By a forced march they might overtake this party, and thus be +able to reach the settlements in safety. Should they linger, they might +all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott, however, was incapable of +moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward, and dreaded that such +a clog would prevent their coming up with the advance party. They +determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate. Accordingly, under +presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be efficacious in +his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the trail. +They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest, but +concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had died +of disease. + +On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in +company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning +skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for +the remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where +they had abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had +crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. +The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave +have ever since borne his name. + +Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first +time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents +these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such +scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from +crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains, +under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower +than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice, +so high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems +a pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations, +doubtless from a feeling of security. + +This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often +confounded with another animal, the "woolly sheep," found more to the +northward, about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise +inhabits cliffs in summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter. +It has white wool, like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long +hair; but it has short legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its +horns are about five inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as +jet, and beautifully polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This +animal is by no means so active as the bighorn; it does not bound much, +but sits a good deal upon its haunches. It is not so plentiful either; +rarely more than two or three are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives +a resemblance to the sheep; it is more properly of the flesh is said to +have a musty flavor; some have thought the fleece might be valuable, as +it is said to be as fine as that of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to +be procured in sufficient quantities. + +The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a +deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep, +and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it +more sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in +the Rocky Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude, +quite down to California; generally in the highest regions capable of +vegetation; sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least +alarm, regains its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous, +if not impossible for the hunter to follow. + + + + +4. + + An alarm--Crow--Indians--Their appearance--Mode of approach + --Their vengeful errand--Their curiosity--Hostility between + the Crows and Blackfeet--Loving conduct of the Crows-- + Laramie's Fork--First navigation of the--Nebraska--Great + elevation of the country--Rarity of the atmosphere--Its + effect on the wood-work of wagons--Black Hills--Their wild + and broken scenery--Indian dogs--Crow trophies--Sterile and + dreary country--Banks of the Sweet Water--Buffalo hunting-- + Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook + +WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best +hunters in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look +out for game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying +up the banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving +their caps, and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians! + +The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and +announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the +river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the +most roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains; +horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of +sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for +action, and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him +in the general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency. + +Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his +little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld +the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty +of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and +mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They +came prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous +evolutions, for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their +bright colors, and flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring +and sparkling in the morning sunshine, gave them really a striking +appearance. + +Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and +ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct +hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a +furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left, +and wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling +like maniacs. + +This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching +the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the +pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship. +The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship. + +The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their +village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already +been five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were +determined not to return home until they had sated their revenge. + +A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the +country at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of +Captain Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished +at the long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the +sight of a cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them +to be some kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they +carried back to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He +had, in consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold +the wonders described to him. "Now that we have met you," said he to +Captain Bonneville, "and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our +hearts are glad." In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by +these people as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen +by them before, and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but +the calf was the peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it +with intense interest as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and +were struck with the mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect +docility. + +After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must +be the "great medicine" of the white party; an appellation given by the +Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded +as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture, +however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse; +their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they +declined the bargain. + +At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together, +and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was +well pleased with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the +"unsophisticated sons of nature," who had so long been objects of his +poetic speculations; and indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one +of the most notorious of the mountains. The chief, of course, had +his scalps to show and his battles to recount. The Blackfoot is the +hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom hostility is like a cherished +principle of religion; for every tribe, besides its casual +antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can be no permanent +reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole, are enemies +worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first water. As +their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they often come +in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to keep +their wits awake and their passions alive. + +The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious +character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that +they were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was +friendly in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their +attentions, and had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It +was not until after separation on the following morning that the captain +and his men ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the +course of their fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the +pockets of their white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their +coats, and, above all, to make free with their hunting knives. + +By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain +Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47' north. The thermometer, +at six o'clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two +o'clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o'clock in the +evening, at seventy degrees. + +The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance, +printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and +threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers. + +On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie's Fork, a clear +and beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an +average width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows +abounding in currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and +clumps of trees. + +By an observation of Jupiter's satellites, with a Dolland reflecting +telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57' +west of Greenwich. + +We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three +years after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell, +formerly of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte +from this fork, in skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been +discredited, that the river was navigable. About the same time, he built +a fort or trading post at Laramie's Fork, which he named Fort William, +after his friend and partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the +Platte has become a highway for the fur traders. + +For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the +great elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the +effect of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons. +The wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually +working out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props +to prevent their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one +of those great steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity +of the atmosphere renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these +regions there is a fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is +scanty and short, and parches up in the course of the summer, so that +there is none for the hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a +common observation that "above the forks of the Platte the grass does +not burn." All attempts at agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood +of Fort William have been attended with very little success. The grain +and vegetables raised there have been scanty in quantity and poor in +quality. The great elevation of these plains, and the dryness of the +atmosphere, will tend to retain these immense regions in a state of +pristine wildness. + +In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and +broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their +journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines +incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the +day was spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up +ravines, forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging +them with ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of +their horses were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and +stony roads. The travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief +storms, which would come hurrying over the hills, or through the +mountain defiles, rage with great fury for a short time, and then pass +off, leaving everything calm and serene again. + +For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs, +prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large +pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail--altogether, +they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors +would keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the +first stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they +reached some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep +a sharp and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers +were fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving +hangers-on would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the +half-picked bones, the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having +made a hasty meal, with many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow +leisurely on the trail of the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax +or catch them, but in vain. Their quick and suspicious eyes caught +the slightest sinister movement, and they turned and scampered off. At +length one was taken. He was terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled +as if expecting instant death. Soothed, however, by caresses, he began +after a time to gather confidence and wag his tail, and at length was +brought to follow close at the heels of his captors, still, however, +darting around furtive and suspicious glances, and evincing a +disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm. + +On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path. +They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne +scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards, +to appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had +been revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant +rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means +disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages, +and above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They +remarked one precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to +protect their hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had +to pass, they had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide. + +The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the +Nebraska or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced +to the margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits. +One of these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a +range of low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore +traces of some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto +the various strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the +southwest, but here everything appeared to have been subverted, and +thrown out of place. In many places there were heavy beds of white +sandstone resting upon red. Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags +and cliffs; and sometimes formed perpendicular walls and overhanging +precipices. An air of sterility prevailed over these savage wastes. The +valleys were destitute of herbage, and scantily clothed with a stunted +species of wormwood, generally known among traders and trappers by the +name of sage. From an elevated point of their march through this region, +the travellers caught a beautiful view of the Powder River Mountains +away to the north, stretching along the very verge of the horizon, and +seeming, from the snow with which they were mantled, to be a chain of +small white clouds, connecting sky and earth. + +Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even +sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow +were to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the +travellers were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole +region. + +The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to +a much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains +below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current. +The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides +rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks; +then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes +impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and +rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley. + +On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the +Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and +making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time +over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the +Sweet Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five +feet deep, flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one +of the forks or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now +shaped their course for several successive days, tending, generally, to +the west. The soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified. +Frequently the plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock, +sometimes in the shape of a half globe, and from three to four hundred +feet high. These singular masses had occasionally a very imposing, and +even sublime appearance, rising from the midst of a savage and lonely +landscape. + +As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more +sensible of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more +generally capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics, +sore lips and mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons +also shrank so much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept +from falling to pieces. The country bordering upon the river was +frequently gashed with deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to +avoid which, the travellers were obliged to make wide circuits through +the plains. In the course of these, they came upon immense herds of +buffalo, which kept scouring off in the van, like a retreating army. + +Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who +officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel +situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he +had suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of +the camp. Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his +station; and the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their +exploits, inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity +of their order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting +opportunity for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march, +all prepared for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung +at the pommel of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his +shoulder. While in this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in +great alarm. In an instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on +foot. Finding they were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and +pulled [the] trigger. His shot produced no other effect than to increase +the speed of the buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his +heels, and scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after +him, hallooing with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman +soon disappeared among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville, +who was at the head of the line, and had seen the transaction at a +distance, detached a party in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they +returned, leading the frightened horse; but though they had scoured the +country, and looked out and shouted from every height, they had seen +nothing of his rider. + +As Captain Bonneville knew Tom's utter awkwardness and inexperience, +and the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he +halted and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt +for him in the morning. + +At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every +direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its +course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters +returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him +in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused +shouts of merriment in the camp,--but Tom for once could not join in +the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and +apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life. + + + + +5. + + Magnificent scenery--Wind River--Mountains--Treasury of + waters--A stray horse--An Indian trail--Trout streams--The + Great Green River Valley--An alarm--A band of trappers-- + Fontenelle, his information--Sufferings of thirst-- + Encampment on the Seedskedee--Strategy of rival traders-- + Fortification of the camp--The--Blackfeet--Banditti of the + mountains--Their character and habits + +IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight +of the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains. +He had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along +the river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent +prospect burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River +Mountains, with their bleached and snowy summits towering into the +clouds. These stretched far to the north-northwest, until they melted +away into what appeared to be faint clouds, but which the experienced +eyes of the veteran hunters of the party recognized for the rugged +mountains of the Yellowstone; at the feet of which extended the wild +Crow country: a perilous, though profitable region for the trapper. + +To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness, +with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This, +however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or +Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering +tribe of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the +enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous +scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him. +We can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have +contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great +fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of +those mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles +of varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of +the Atlantic and the Pacific. + +The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the +whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form, +as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length, +and from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with +eternal snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and +rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid +streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of +the Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give +rise to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the +West, that empties its current into the Gulf of California. + +The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters' and trappers' +stories: their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their +neighborhood, having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the +mountains, and scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It +was to the west of these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee +Agie, or Green River, that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt +for the purpose of giving repose to his people and his horses after +their weary journeying; and of collecting information as to his future +course. This Green River valley, and its immediate neighborhood, as +we have already observed, formed the main point of rendezvous, for +the present year, of the rival fur companies, and the motley populace, +civilized and savage, connected with them. Several days of rugged +travel, however, yet remained for the captain and his men before they +should encamp in this desired resting-place. + +On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of +the meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little +distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself +quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of +the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal; +lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity. +After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party, +which had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The +horse was accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more +vigilant watch than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his +former owners should be upon the prowl. + +The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of +July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets, +and the thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the +atmosphere continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the +wheels were incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length +devised. The tire of each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed +round the exterior of the felloes, the tire was then made red hot, +replaced round the wheel, and suddenly cooled with water. By this means, +the whole was bound together with great compactness. + +The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the +feet of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their +peaks, which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above +the level of the sea. + +On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and +keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most +southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march +of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running +to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout. + +The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they +had reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on +the western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken. +The stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be +tributary to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed +at some distance to the south. + +Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the +crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in +being the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled +provinces of Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the +Pacific, with wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader +of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously, +reached the valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the +mountains; but had proceeded with them no further. + +A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one +side by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of +high hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter +in his company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same +informant would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet +deep, which he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was +convinced, however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so +wide a valley and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an +early hour, on its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day +to reach the main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the +distant range of western hills. + +On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making +directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at +as brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About +eleven o'clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the +rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given; +they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured +that the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the +neighborhood of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some +secret fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on +the open plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations +were immediately made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to +reconnoitre. They soon came galloping back, making signals that all was +well. The cloud of dust was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted +trappers, belonging to the American Fur Company, who soon came up, +leading their pack-horses. They were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an +experienced leader, or "partisan," as a chief of a party is called in +the technical language of the trappers. + +Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from +the company's trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous, +with reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties +beyond the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with +a band of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen +upon the trail of Captain Bonneville's party, just after leaving the +Nebraska; and, finding that they had frightened off all the game, had +been obliged to push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men +and horses were, therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to +halt; the plain before them he said was destitute of grass and water, +neither of which would be met with short of the Green River, which was +yet at a considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party +were all on horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by +nightfall: but he doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville's +arrival there with his wagons before the day following. Having imparted +this information, he pushed forward with all speed. + +Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit. +The ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued +to move rapidly. After a long and harassing day's march, without pausing +for a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o'clock at night, +to encamp in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the +following morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to +slake their thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse +grass, here and there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a +great part of this Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the +rain cannot penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In +some places it produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the +streams; but the wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It +was not until noon that Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the +Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of the West; in the meantime, the sufferings +of both men and horses had been excessive, and it was with almost +frantic eagerness that they hurried to allay their burning thirst in the +limpid current of the river. + +Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had +managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up +by the exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were +obliged to pass the night upon the road. + +On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across +the river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance +below, where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant +pasturage. Here the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take +their rest: the weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in +flesh and spirit; but this last march across the thirsty plain had +nearly finished them. + +The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the +fur trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with +Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of +Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them +four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was +somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had +calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the +rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his +competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free +trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to +endeavor to bring them to his camp. + +As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that +both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it +was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his +camp with breastworks of logs and pickets. + +These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the +bands of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood. +These savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the +inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order, +always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the +tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain +horses, and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a +family, and entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils. +The veteran warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the +consequence which success gives them among their people. + +They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short, +stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis. +When on a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk +through the country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and +ravines, and use more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode +of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the +night time. If they succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with +headlong fury: if the enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, +they become wary and deliberate in their movements. + +Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the +greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of +the Hudson's Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the +American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries +for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond +of spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready +to exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and +daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking +hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by +Mr. Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition +across the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged +constantly to keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men. + +Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes: +such as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros +Ventres of the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the +Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further +north. + +The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent +at the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies, +which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who +keep about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white +men. + +This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and +numbers about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or +three years they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the +Arapahoes of the Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow +country, and the Black Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces, +Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state +of hostility with all these tribes, their expeditions are prone to be +conducted in the most lawless and predatory style; nor do they hesitate +to extend their maraudings to any party of white men they meet with; +following their trails; hovering about their camps; waylaying and +dogging the caravans of the free traders, and murdering the solitary +trapper. The consequences are frequent and desperate fights between them +and the "mountaineers," in the wild defiles and fastnesses of the Rocky +Mountains. + +The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one +of their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter +we shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers, +which had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville +among the mountains. + + + + +6. + + Sublette and his band--Robert--Campbell--Mr. Wyeth and a + band of "down-easters"--Yankee enterprise--Fitzpatrick--His + adventure with the Blackfeet--A rendezvous of mountaineers-- + The battle of--Pierre's Hole--An Indian ambuscade-- + Sublette's return + +LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified +camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party +of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies +from St. Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre's Hole. This +party consisted of sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of +packhorses. They were commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner +in the company, and one of the most active, intrepid, and renowned +leaders in this half military kind of service. He was accompanied by +his associate in business, and tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert +Campbell, one of the pioneers of the trade beyond the mountains, who had +commanded trapping parties there in times of the greatest peril. + +As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell +in with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This +was a party of regular "down-easters," that is to say, people of New +England, who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their +race, were now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with +which they were totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and +was maintained and commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This +gentleman had conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon +might be established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur +trade. He had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he +supposed, for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men +in his employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of +the wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the +continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same +way that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch +forth on a voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific. + +With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and +his men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the +frontier, and found that the wilderness required experience and +habitudes of which they were totally deficient. Not one of the party, +excepting the leader, had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they +were without guide or interpreter, and totally unacquainted with "wood +craft" and the modes of making their way among savage hordes, and +subsisting themselves during long marches over wild mountains and barren +plains. + +In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed, +or rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence, +in Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled +amicably together; the frontier men of Sublette's party gave their +Yankee comrades some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art +and mystery of dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without +accident at the upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River. + +In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the +company who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came +down from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole to meet them and hurry them +forward. He travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet +Water; then taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the +other as a pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre's Hole, to make +arrangements against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting +campaign before the rival company. + +Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the +passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green +River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to +a halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the +rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and +setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once +his mistake and his peril--they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his +fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for +the mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous +defiles. Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone +off, when he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his +remaining horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For +several days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost +famished, having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept +for self-defence. + +In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller, +Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green +River valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at +hand. They had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which +came down from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band +of Indians burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and +a discharge of guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than +wounding one mule, and causing several horses to break loose from their +pickets. The camp was instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with +yells of exultation, carrying off several of the horses under cover of +the night. + +This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some +of Wyeth's band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New +England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette's men, +who were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued +their march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their +flanks, and arrived without further molestation at Pierre's Hole. + +The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous, +was for Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been +received concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest +he should have fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made +the midnight attack upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy, +therefore, when he made his appearance, conducted by two half-breed +Iroquois hunters. He had lurked for several days among the mountains, +until almost starved; at length he escaped the vigilance of his enemies +in the night, and was so fortunate as to meet the two Iroquois hunters, +who, being on horseback, conveyed him without further difficulty to +the rendezvous. He arrived there so emaciated that he could scarcely be +recognized. + +The valley called Pierre's Hole is about thirty miles in length and +fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken +ridges, and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the +three Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country. + +A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through +the valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The +meadows on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and +cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be +nearly impassable. + +In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the +fur trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments, +with their retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and +half-breeds, assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly +supplies, and their orders to start off in new directions. Here, also, +the savage tribes connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish +Indians, and Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and +with their squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There +was, moreover, a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant +leader from Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little +apart from the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage, +amounting to several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in +tents and lodges in the several camps. + +The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur +Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened, +and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement +and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their +several destinations. + +On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by +Milton Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of +proceeding to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his +fifteen free trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver +hunters and salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this +opportunity to prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied +with such experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about +eight miles to the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the +valley of Pierre's Hole. On the following morning, just as they were +raising their camp, they observed a long line of people pouring down a +defile of the mountains. They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle +and his party, whose arrival had been daily expected. Wyeth, however, +reconnoitred them with a spy-glass, and soon perceived they were +Indians. They were divided into two parties, forming, in the whole, +about one hundred and fifty persons, men, women, and children. Some were +on horseback, fantastically painted and arrayed, with scarlet blankets +fluttering in the wind. The greater part, however, were on foot. They +had perceived the trappers before they were themselves discovered, and +came down yelling and whooping into the plain. On nearer approach, they +were ascertained to be Blackfeet. + +One of the trappers of Sublette's brigade, a half-breed named Antoine +Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference. +He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by +the Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears +his name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose +once powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with +the Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful +hostility against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came +to a halt. One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the +pipe of peace. This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the +Flathead were predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a +treacherous movement. + +"Is your piece charged?" said Antoine to his red companion. + +"It is." + +"Then cock it, and follow me." + +They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in +friendship. Antoine grasped it. + +"Fire!" cried he. + +The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the +ground. Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly +ornamented, and galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the +bullets of the enemy whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw +themselves into the edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood +trees, interwoven with vines. Here they began to fortify themselves; +the women digging a trench, and throwing up a breastwork of logs +and branches, deep hid in the bosom of the wood, while the warriors +skirmished at the edge to keep the trappers at bay. + +The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up +a scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of "downeasters," +they were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the +wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use +of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as +a skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them; +then, making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to +remain in garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself, +he mingled with the other leaders, determined to take his share in the +conflict. + +In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for +reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at +their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his +cap, and giving the alarm; "Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper +part of the valley!--to arms! to arms!" + +The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one +turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined. +As fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was +soon alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed. + +Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St. +Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared +for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and +arming themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses +and dashed forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their +wills in soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be +disposed of in case of his death, and appointing the other his executor. + +The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all +the foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the +whole valley suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field +of action. They withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from +sight in the dark and tangled wood. Most of their women and children +had retreated to the mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and +approached the swamp, firing into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet +had a better sight at their adversaries, who were in the open field, and +a half-breed was wounded in the shoulder. + +When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm +the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place, +and the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The +very Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as +almost impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to +be turned from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp. +Campbell stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous +wood, Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he +fell, Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done, +he grasped his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell. +Sinclair, the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with +his brother and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the +two friends, he pressed forward to share their dangers. + +The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming +up a stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all +overgrown with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that +it was impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in +peril had to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting +the branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they +should attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by +turns, each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then +hallooing to their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered +the swamp, and followed a little distance in their rear. + +They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of +the rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as +we have said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and +the leathern covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The +movements of the leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried +by the sharp-sighted enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was +putting some branches aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on +the spot. "Take me to my brother," said he to Campbell. The latter gave +him in charge to some of the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp. + +Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he +perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle +was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye. +While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him +the hole; "Watch that place," said he, "and you will soon have a fair +chance for a shot." Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck +him in the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought +was to take hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and +down. He ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken. +The next moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took +him in his arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that +struck Sublette wounded another man in the head. + +A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered +occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in +searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number +of Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others +did the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, +which occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian +was shot down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had +been sped from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort. + +The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much +increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were +completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however, +making no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork +was kept up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in +bravado, would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a +buffalo robe or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his +comrades. Most of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in +the first part of the attack. + +At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws +belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This +however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the +robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure +would fall into their hands. + +The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other. +During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief +was heard. + +"So long," said he, "as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the +open field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our +women and children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes, +and you who are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There +are four hundred lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be +here--their arms are strong--their hearts are big--they will avenge us!" + +This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole +interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was +made to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking +the encampment at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for +hurrying to the defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep +watch upon the fort; the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came +on, the trappers drew out of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of +the wood. By morning, their companions returned from the rendezvous with +the report that all was safe. As the day opened, they ventured within +the swamp and approached the fort. All was silent. They advanced up to +it without opposition. They entered: it had been abandoned in the night, +and the Blackfeet had effected their retreat, carrying off their wounded +on litters made of branches, leaving bloody traces on the herbage. The +bodies of ten Indians were found within the fort; among them the one +shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet afterward reported that they +had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle. Thirty-two horses were +likewise found killed; among them were some of those recently carried +off from Sublette's party, in the night; which showed that these were +the very savages that had attacked him. They proved to be an advance +party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon the trail of +Sublette's party. Five white men and one halfbreed were killed, and +several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and six +wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In the +course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood; but +his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was +proof against powder and ball. + +A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning +after the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were +approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of +noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at +her lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was +dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either +she was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud +spirit kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on +discovering her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled +body fell upon the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have +heard this anecdote discredited by one of the leaders who had been in +the battle: but the fact may have taken place without his seeing it, and +been concealed from him. It is an instance of female devotion, even to +the death, which we are well disposed to believe and to record. + +After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the +free trappers, and Wyeth's New England band, remained some days at the +rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an +attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves +in motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain +Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on +his return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from +the trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his +departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of +this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of +the followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and +savage warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization. +He and six others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred +K. Stephens, of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel +Boon, set out together, in advance of Sublette's party, thinking they +would make their way through the mountains. + +It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven +companions were making their way through Jackson's Hole, a valley not +far from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party +of Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The +horse of the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with +affright, and threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up +the side of the hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his +presence of mind, and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank, +until the Blackfeet came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had +fled on the first alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing +his danger, paused when they got half way up the hill, turned back, +dismounted, and hastened to his assistance. Foy was instantly killed. +Stephens was severely wounded, but escaped, to die five days afterward. +The survivors returned to the camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings +of this new disaster. That hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the +journey, set out on his return to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As +they had a number of pack-horses richly laden with peltries to convoy, +they chose a different route through the mountains, out of the way, as +they hoped, of the lurking bands of Blackfeet. They succeeded in making +the frontier in safety. We remember to have seen them with their band, +about two or three months afterward, passing through a skirt of woodland +in the upper part of Missouri. Their long cavalcade stretched in single +file for nearly half a mile. Sublette still wore his arm in a sling. +The mountaineers in their rude hunting dresses, armed with rifles +and roughly mounted, and leading their pack-horses down a hill of the +forest, looked like banditti returning with plunder. On the top of some +of the packs were perched several half-breed children, perfect little +imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf locks. These, I was +told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love from their squaw +spouses in the wilderness. + + + + +7. + + Retreat of the Blackfeet--Fontenelle's camp in danger-- + Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet--Free trappers--Their + character, habits, dress, equipments, horses--Game fellows + of the mountains--Their visit to the camp--Good fellowship + and good cheer--A carouse--A swagger, a brawl, and a + reconciliation + +THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from +their wild fastness in Pierre's Hole, fell back into the valley of the +Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their +band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy +and exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives +and children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive +enterprise of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their +wanderings they came in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who +had moved some distance up Green River valley in search of the free +trappers, they put up tremendous war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if +to attack it. Second thoughts caused them to moderate their fury. They +recollected the severe lesson just received, and could not but remark +the strength of Fontenelle's position; which had been chosen with great +judgment. + +A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of +which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however, +knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care +to inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might +know there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference +ended, Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen +of the Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic] +at that time two Crow Indians in the captain's camp, who had recently +arrived there. They looked with dismay at this deputation from their +implacable enemies, and gave the captain a terrible character of them, +assuring him that the best thing he could possibly do, was to put those +Blackfeet deputies to death on the spot. The captain, however, who had +heard nothing of the conflict at Pierre's Hole, declined all compliance +with this sage counsel. He treated the grim warriors with his usual +urbanity. They passed some little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that +everything was conducted with military skill and vigilance; and that +such an enemy was not to be easily surprised, nor to be molested with +impunity, and then departed, to report all that they had seen to their +comrades. + +The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the +band of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to +his camp, had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August +those worthies made their appearance. + +To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary +to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur +companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons, +horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound +to do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as +hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard; +and, in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired +trappers. + +The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them, +we shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them +by Captain Bonneville. "They come and go," says he, "when and where they +please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and +trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries +to the highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they +attach themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they +come under some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules +for trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such +general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the +camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they +are bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who +commands the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer +seeking a market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from +thirty to forty dollars for the whole hunt." + +There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come +to these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and +are furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound +to exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without +skinning, they render in at the trader's lodge, where a stipulated price +for each is placed to their credit. These though generally included in +the generic name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin +trappers. + +The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages +have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so +than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them +to discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to +adopt the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian. +You cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade +him you have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the +counterfeit is complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length, +is carefully combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over +his shoulders, or plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or +parti-colored ribands. A hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes, +or of ornamented leather, falls to his knee; below which, curiously +fashioned legging, ornamented with strings, fringes, and a profusion of +hawks' bells, reach to a costly pair of moccasons of the finest Indian +fabric, richly embroidered with beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some +other bright color, hangs from his shoulders, and is girt around his +waist with a red sash, in which he bestows his pistols, knife, and the +stem of his Indian pipe; preparations either for peace or war. His gun +is lavishly decorated with brass tacks and vermilion, and provided with +a fringed cover, occasionally of buckskin, ornamented here and there +with a feather. His horse, the noble minister to the pride, pleasure, +and profit of the mountaineer, is selected for his speed and spirit, +and prancing gait, and holds a place in his estimation second only to +himself. He shares largely of his bounty, and of his pride and pomp of +trapping. He is caparisoned in the most dashing and fantastic style; the +bridles and crupper are weightily embossed with beads and cockades; and +head, mane, and tail, are interwoven with abundance of eagles' plumes, +which flutter in the wind. To complete this grotesque equipment, the +proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted with vermilion, or with white +clay, whichever presents the most glaring contrast to his real color. + +Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of +the wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly +characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their +fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and +long flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed +blankets, and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them +so much the air and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to +persuade one's self that they were white men, and had been brought up in +civilized life. + +Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these +cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and +ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in +the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow +in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they +would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, +and swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the +free trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain's +band; mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard, +or pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the +veterans of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the +hour, with prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of +the wonders he had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his +adventurous peregrinations among the mountains. + +In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp +of Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new +acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept +their word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became +"hail fellow well met" with Captain Bonneville's men; treat after treat +succeeded, until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather +confounded, by liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free +trappers were no longer suffered to have all the swagger to themselves. +The camp bullies and prime trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and +to brag, in turn, of their perils and achievements. Each now tried +to out-boast and out-talk the other; a quarrel ensued as a matter +of course, and a general fight, according to frontier usage. The two +factions drew out their forces for a pitched battle. They fell to work +and belabored each other with might and main; kicks and cuffs and dry +blows were as well bestowed as they were well merited, until, having +fought to their hearts' content, and been drubbed into a familiar +acquaintance with each other's prowess and good qualities, they ended +the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could have been rendered +by a year's peaceable companionship. + +While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and +characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for +the time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to +collect from them information concerning the different parts of the +country about which they had been accustomed to range; the characters +of the tribes, and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He +also succeeded in securing the services of several to guide and aid him +in his peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during +the ensuing season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable +recruits, he felt in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware +Indians, decoyed from him by Mr Fontenelle. + + + + +8. + + Plans for the winter--Salmon River--Abundance of salmon west + of the mountains--New arrangements--Caches--Cerre's + detachment--Movements in--Fontenelle's camp--Departure of + the--Blackfeet--Their fortunes--Wind--Mountain streams-- + Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear--Bones of + murdered travellers--Visit to Pierre's Hole--Traces of the + battle--Nez--Perce--Indians--Arrival at--Salmon River + +THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain +Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green +River valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the +depth of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in +the neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far +more eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither +the captain resolved to bend his course. + +The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia; +and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to +the northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense +shoals of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October. +The salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo +on the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man, +that come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs +find their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along +the fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of +the mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a +sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great +rivers, and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest +tributory streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to +penetrate even among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in +the desert places of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the +animals of the chase, and where, but for these periodical supplies, it +would be impossible for man to subsist. + +The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the +ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run +up the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against +impetuous streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and +weak, and great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their +backs. As the season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are +flung in myriads on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to +banquet on them. Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks +as to taint the atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet +long. + +Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the +winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel +rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods +and supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present +purposes, or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided, +therefore, by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits, +during the night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in +these deposited the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All +traces of the caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common +expedient with the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no +established posts and magazines, they make these caches or deposits at +certain points, whither they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is +an expedient derived from the wandering tribes of Indians. + +Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for +a long scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one +cavalcade, and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name +of Matthieu. He was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to +Bear River; a stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where +there was good pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was +expected he would meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly +migrations, with whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After +he had traded with these people, finished his trapping, and recruited +the strength of the horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin +Captain Bonneville, who intended to fix his quarters there for the +winter. + +While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain +Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of +Fontenelle. One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived, +in all haste, from the rendezvous at Pierre's Hole, in quest of the +supplies. The competition between the two rival companies was just now +at its height, and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns +of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident +partners, Fitzpatrick and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company, +by Vanderburgh and Dripps. The latter were ignorant of the mountain +regions, but trusted to make up by vigilance and activity for their want +of knowledge of the country. + +Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of +competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the +two companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different +directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to +get first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown, +were effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had +enabled the various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start +off to their respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his +associate, Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for +a prime beaver country to the north-northwest. + +This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to +meet Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he +immediately furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the +head of the free trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed, +determined to follow hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of +the adventures of these parties among the mountains, and the disastrous +effects of their competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a +future chapter. + +Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his +errand, struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone. +Captain Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green +River valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the +Blackfeet band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however, +had been dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties +of white men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this +part of the country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and +bending their course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them. +Their route lay through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows. +In the Wind River valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were +encountered by a powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put +to rout. Forty of them were killed, many of their women and children +captured, and the scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they +were completely chased out of the Crow country. + +On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out +on his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three +to a mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal +and one on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and +eighty to two hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers' style of +loading pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting +the packs, which were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was +necessary to keep a rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days' +experience, however, brought them into proper training. + +Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the +right by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little +lakes and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured +forth the tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing +down gullies and ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from +inaccessible clefts and rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and +pellucid currents across the valley, to throw themselves into the main +river. So transparent were these waters that the trout with which they +abounded could be seen gliding about as if in the air; and their pebbly +beds were distinctly visible at the depth of many feet. This beautiful +and diaphanous quality of the Rocky Mountain streams prevails for a long +time after they have mingled their waters and swollen into important +rivers. + +Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued +to the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky +defiles, extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters +was a Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was +Buckeye. He had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping +with the grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in +the left arm, he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded +bear, and attack him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was +willing to brave the animal when in full force and fury. He had twice +an opportunity of proving his prowess, in the course of this mountain +journey, and was each time successful. His mode was to seat himself +upon the ground, with his rifle cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus +prepared, he would await the approach of the bear with perfect coolness, +nor pull trigger until he was close at hand. In each instance, he laid +the monster dead upon the spot. + +A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought +Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson's Hole, where poor +More and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The +feelings of the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these +unfortunate young men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to +be decently interred. + +On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which +commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre's Hole; whence he +could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and +forests of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant +mountains, of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a +sleeping ocean below. + +After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley, +and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the +remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and +strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late +populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers' camps and +Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage +of trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all +dispersed to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had +relapsed into its pristine solitude and silence. + +That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he +resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards +of two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses +suffering excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the +19th of September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River. + +The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The +night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left +the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his +custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become +bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the +following morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered +the earth to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately +encamped, and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search +Buckeye was discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the +rear, waiting the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they +had passed, the snow having covered their trail. + +On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but +had not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country +in the advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and +crying Indians! Indians! + +Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared +for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great +numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly, +making signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or +Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation +was returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him. +They halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as +important with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This +done, they arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the +van, the braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and +topped off with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting +and singing, firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields. +The two parties encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a +hunting expedition, but had been almost famished on their march. They +had no provisions left but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white +men equally in want, they generously offered to share even this meager +pittance, and frequently repeated the offer, with an earnestness that +left no doubt of their sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of +Captain Bonneville, and produced the most cordial good will on the part +of his men. For two days that the parties remained in company, the most +amicable intercourse prevailed, and they parted the best of friends. +Captain Bonneville detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader, +to accompany the Nez Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade +with them for meat for the winter's supply. After this, he proceeded +down the river, about five miles below the forks, when he came to a halt +on the 26th of September, to establish his winter quarters. + + + + +9. + + Horses turned loose--Preparations for winter quarters-- + Hungry times--Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific + habits, religious ceremonies--Captain Bonneville's + conversations with them--Their love of gambling + +IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a +course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under +which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling +upon the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings. +Indeed, so exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle +were no longer capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp. + +All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary +fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure +and comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and +huts were built for the reception of the merchandise. + +This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty +men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the +rest were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different +directions, to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow +should become too deep. + +Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in +this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo +range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the +neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the +garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they +brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now +and then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an +antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with +roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates +of the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having +wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the +8th of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez +Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their +situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set +they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor +anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of +certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any +weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor +fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their +hard fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical +stoicism, they at least made them acquainted with the edible properties +of roots and wild rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their +own store. The necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that +Captain Bonneville determined to dispatch a party to the Horse +Prairie, a plain to the north of his cantonment, to procure a supply of +provisions. When the men were about to depart, he proposed to the Nez +Perces that they, or some of them, should join the hunting-party. To +his surprise, they promptly declined. He inquired the reason for their +refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as starving a situation as his +own people. They replied that it was a sacred day with them, and the +Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it to hunting. They +offered, however, to accompany the party if it would delay its departure +until the following day; but this the pinching demands of hunger would +not permit, and the detachment proceeded. + +A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that +they were about to hunt. "What!" exclaimed he, "without guns or arrows; +and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?" They smiled +among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they +performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a +few short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the +blessings of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed, +leaving the whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by +this lesson of faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being. +"Accustomed," adds Captain Bonneville, "as I had heretofore been, to +find the wretched Indian revelling in blood, and stained by every vice +which can degrade human nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which +I had witnessed. Wonder at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where +it was least to have been sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame +and confusion, at receiving such pure and wholesome instructions from +creatures so far below us in the arts and comforts of life." The simple +prayers of the poor Indians were not unheard. In the course of four or +five days they returned, laden with meat. Captain Bonneville was curious +to know how they had attained such success with such scanty means. They +gave him to understand that they had chased the buffalo at full speed, +until they tired them down, when they easily dispatched them with the +spear, and made use of the same weapon to flay the carcasses. To carry +through their lessons to their Christian friends, the poor savages were +as charitable as they had been pious, and generously shared with them +the spoils of their hunting, giving them food enough to last for several +days. + +A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain +Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional +feeling. "Simply to call these people religious," says he, "would convey +but a faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades +their whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of +purpose, and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most +uniform and remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of +saints than a horde of savages." + +In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from +the doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had +imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries +and traders who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of +the fasts and festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its +ceremonials. These have become blended with their own wild rites, and +present a strange medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men, +women, and children array themselves in their best style, and assemble +round a pole erected at the head of the camp. Here they go through a +wild fantastic ceremonial; strongly resembling the religious dance of +the Shaking Quakers; but from its enthusiasm, much more striking and +impressive. During the intervals of the ceremony, the principal chiefs, +who officiate as priests, instruct them in their duties, and exhort them +to virtue and good deeds. + +"There is something antique and patriarchal," observes Captain +Bonneville, "in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there +is in many of their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued +with religion." + +The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by +this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness. +He exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and +well-disposed people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle +and humanizing precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them +acquainted with the leading points of its history; and it speaks highly +for the purity and benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed +happiness from the task. + +"Many a time," says he, "was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled +with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other, +until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the +wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No +other subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the +attention; and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory, +or are so pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours +of intercourse with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the +desert." + +The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people, +appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an +eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble +before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain +absorbed in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn +of the following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer. +Bets increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater, +until in the course of a single night's gambling, the richest chief may +become the poorest varlet in the camp. + + + + +10. + + Black feet in the Horse Prairie--Search after the hunters-- + Difficulties and dangers--A card party in the wilderness-- + The card party interrupted--"Old Sledge" a losing game-- + Visitors to the camp--Iroquois hunters--Hanging-eared + Indians + +ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived +at Captain Bonneville's encampment. They were on their way homeward, +but had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the +mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse +Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke +of a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a +war party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they +generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these +horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings. + +This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville +for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the +Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and +declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen +from that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain +Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that +direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found; +but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh +famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful +of food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the +mountain. After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but +merely wounded him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill +and dale, with the eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more +lucky shot brought him to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged +his knife into his throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking +his blood: A fire was instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two +hunters cooked, and ate again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they +sank to sleep before their hunting fire. On the following morning they +rose early, made another hearty meal, then loading themselves with +buffalo meat, set out on their return to the camp, to report the +fruitlessness of their mission. + +At length, after six weeks' absence, the hunters made their appearance, +and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been +felt on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie, +but, while busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken +Flatheads, who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at +hand. The hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground, +and accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr. +Cerre, and the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the +hunting party of the Nez Perces. + +After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the +Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of +Mr. Cerre's men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived +without accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not +far from his quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord, +which they supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days +afterward Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at +the cantonment. + +Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty +hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise +his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his +encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary +of their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on +these prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves +with a social game of cards called "old sledge," which is as popular +among these trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite +circles of the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly +roused by a discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on +their feet, and snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their +horses and mules already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon +the camp unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old +sledge. The Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored +to urge them off under a galling fire that did some execution. The +mules, however, confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new +riders kicked up their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of +their horsemanship. This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored +to protect their unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the +whites; but, after a scene of "confusion worse confounded," horses and +mules were abandoned, and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes. +Here they quickly scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in +which they prostrated themselves, and while thus screened from the shots +of the white men, were enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows +and fusees, as to repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat. +This adventure threw a temporary stigma upon the game of "old sledge." + +In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow +from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment. +They were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves +useful in a variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate +woodsmen. They were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that +came from Canada into these mountain regions many years previously, +in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company. They were led by a brave +chieftain, named Pierre, who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and +gave his name to the fated valley of Pierre's Hole. This branch of the +Iroquois tribe has ever since remained among these mountains, at mortal +enmity with the Blackfeet, and have lost many of their prime hunters in +their feuds with that ferocious race. Some of them fell in with +General Ashley, in the course of one of his gallant excursions into the +wilderness, and have continued ever since in the employ of the company. + +Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville +was a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These +Indians have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez +Perces. They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and +possess great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn, +they hunt the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry's +Fork of the Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River. +Their winter quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon +roots and dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson's Bay Company +have established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the +Flatheads bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and +trinkets. + +This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings +of natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like +that of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep +reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of +their fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific +doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased +with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore, +from all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their +policy, they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare; +especially with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting +expeditions, they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles. +Their conduct as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can +never be driven to abandon their hunting grounds. + +Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power +and efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some +of their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth 'scapes, like +the old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre's Hole, are believed +to wear a charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings +marvelous anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed +by their fellow savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white +hunters. + + + + +11. + + Rival trapping parties--Manoeuvring--A desperate game-- + Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet--Deserted camp fire--A dark + defile--An Indian ambush--A fierce melee--Fatal + consequences--Fitzpatrick and Bridger--Trappers precautions + --Meeting with the Blackfeet--More fighting--Anecdote of a + young--Mexican and an Indian girl. + +WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez +Perces, on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those +doughty rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who +started off for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest. + +Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already +shown, having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped +to have the first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and +Dripps, however, the two resident partners of the opposite company, by +extraordinary exertions were enabled soon to put themselves upon their +traces, and pressed forward with such speed as to overtake them just +as they had reached the heart of the beaver country. In fact, being +ignorant of the best trapping grounds, it was their object to follow on, +and profit by the superior knowledge of the other party. + +Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being +dogged by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer +to divide the country with them. They tried in every way to blind and +baffle them; to steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent; +but all in vain. Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for +his ignorance of the country; was always wary, always on the alert; +discovered every movement of his rivals, however secret and was not to +be eluded or misled. + +Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the +others persisted in following them, they determined to give them an +unprofitable chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than +share the products with their rivals. They accordingly took up their +line of march down the course of the Missouri, keeping the main +Blackfoot trail, and tramping doggedly forward, without stopping to set +a single trap. The others beat the hoof after them for some time, but +by degrees began to perceive that they were on a wild-goose chase, and +getting into a country perfectly barren to the trapper. They now came +to a halt, and be-thought themselves how to make up for lost time, and +improve the remainder of the season. It was thought best to divide their +forces and try different trapping grounds. While Dripps went in one +direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty men, proceeded in another. +The latter, in his headlong march had got into the very heart of the +Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been unconscious of his danger. As +his scouts were out one day, they came upon the traces of a recent band +of savages. There were the deserted fires still smoking, surrounded +by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It was evident a party +of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting camp, and had +retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts hastened back to +the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He made light of the +alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to reconnoitre for +himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they had represented +it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly dismembered; there +were the smouldering fires, still sending up their wreaths of smoke; +everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and gave reason to +believe that the savages were still lurking in the neighborhood. With +heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their trail, to trace them +to their place of concealment: It led him over prairies, and through +skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and dangerous ravine. +Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by his little +band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between steep banks +overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only broken by the +tramp of their own horses. + +Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the +sharp report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their +concealments, yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten +the horses. Vanderburgh's horse fell, mortally wounded by the first +discharge. In his fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called +in vain upon his men to assist in extricating him. One was shot down +scalped a few paces distant; most of the others were severely wounded, +and sought their safety in flight. The savages approached to dispatch +the unfortunate leader, as he lay struggling beneath his horse.. He +had still his rifle in his hand and his pistols in his belt. The first +savage that advanced received the contents of the rifle in his breast, +and fell dead upon the spot; but before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol, +a blow from a tomahawk laid him prostrate, and he was dispatched by +repeated wounds. + +Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and +worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing +and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular +among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness. + +Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp, +and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The +party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and +made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains +of their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the +encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a +reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could +be found. + +In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company, +fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to +mislead them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region +infested with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch +for them; but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be +surprised at night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the +evening advanced, the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a +guard was stationed round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of +the leaders would mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about +half a mile; then look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether +there had been any lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would +reconnoitre every ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush. +This done, he would gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the +same scrutiny. Finding all things safe, the horses would be turned loose +to graze, but always under the eye of a guard. + +A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any +defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always +kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the +flanks. + +At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open +field, but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary +distance, but made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way, +but likewise kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing +the pipe of peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and +they formed a group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was +circulated from hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An +instance of natural affection took place at this pacific meeting. +Among the free trappers in the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited +young Mexican named Loretto, who, in the course of his wanderings, had +ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl from a band of Crows by whom she had +been captured. He made her his wife, after the Indian style, and she had +followed his fortunes ever since, with the most devoted affection. + +Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she +recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward +and threw herself upon her brother's neck, who clasped his long-lost +sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible +with the reputed stoicism of the savage. + +While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of +trappers and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle +resting across the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet +stepped forward to meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust +Bridger cocked his rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in +friendship. The quick ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in +a twinkling he grasped the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the +contents were discharged into the earth at his feet. His next movement +was to wrest the weapon from the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to +the earth. He might have found this no easy task had not the unfortunate +leader received two arrows in his back during the struggle. + +The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his +band. A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks, +the rocks and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular +firing was kept up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl +had been hurried off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She +would have returned, through the dangers of the fight, to her husband +and her child, but was prevented by her brother. The young Mexican +saw her struggles and her agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a +generous impulse he caught up the child in his arms, rushed forward, +regardless of Indian shaft or rifle, and placed it in safety upon her +bosom. Even the savage heart of the Blackfoot chief was reached by this +noble deed. He pronounced Loretto a madman for his temerity, but bade +him depart in peace. The young Mexican hesitated; he urged to have his +wife restored to him, but her brother interfered, and the countenance of +the chief grew dark. The girl, he said, belonged to his tribe-she must +remain with her people. Loretto would still have lingered, but his wife +implored him to depart, lest his life should be endangered. It was with +the greatest reluctance that he returned to his companions. + +The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse +parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We +cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre's Hole the +affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment +when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither +instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different +persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in +their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual +among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves +sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial, +by any hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of +faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white +men have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have, +in consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted. + +A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian +bride. A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young +Mexican settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and +obtained his discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin +his wife and child among her people; and we understand that, at the time +we are writing these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of +late by the American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts +as an interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him. + + + + +12. + + A winter camp in the wilderness--Medley of trappers, + hunters, and Indians--Scarcity of game--New arrangements in + the camp--Detachments sent to a distance--Carelessness of + the Indians when encamped--Sickness among the Indians-- + Excellent character of the Nez-Perces--The Captain's effort + as a pacificator--A Nez-Perce's argument in favor of war-- + Robberies, by the Black feet--Long suffering of the Nez- + Perces--A hunter's Elysium among the mountains--More + robberies--The Captain preaches up a crusade--The effect + upon his hearers. + +FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville +remained in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full +enjoyment of his wishes; leading a hunter's life in the heart of the +wilderness, with all its wild populace around him. Beside his own +people, motley in character and costume--creole, Kentuckian, Indian, +half-breed, hired trapper, and free trapper--he was surrounded by +encampments of Nez Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses +covering the hills and plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling +scene. The hunting parties of white men and red men, continually +sallying forth and returning; the groups at the various encampments, +some cooking, some working, some amusing themselves at different games; +the neighing of horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of +the axe, the sharp report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the +frequent burst of laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused +from perfect silence and loneliness by this transient hunters' sojourn, +realized, he says, the idea of a "populous solitude." + +The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its +influence on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together. +The most perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says, +were friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous +degree in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were +somewhat importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in +the way, examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching +every movement of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great +good-humor by the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed, +throughout all his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor +Indians, and his conduct toward them is above all praise. + +The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves +upon the number of their horses, of which they possess more in +proportion than any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo +range. Many of the Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain +Bonneville possess from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are +stout, well-built ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the +severest hardship and fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those +obtained from the whites while sufficiently young to become acclimated +and inured to the rough service of the mountains. + +By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its +inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians +consumed the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to +any distant pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and +deadly enemies, would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast. +Game, too, began to grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out +of the vicinity, and though the Indians made a wide circuit through +the mountains in the hope of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment, +their expedition was unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party +could not subsist themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the +winter. Captain Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements. +He detached fifty men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and +to trap about its waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the +month of July at Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed +upon as the general rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year. + +Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of +free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and +Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass. +Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments +and set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained +behind for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which +to deposit everything not required for current use. Thus lightened +of all superfluous encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to +rejoin his Indian allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of +the country, at the head of a small stream. Considering themselves +out of all danger in this sequestered spot from their old enemies, the +Blackfeet, their encampment manifested the most negligent security. +Their lodges were scattered in every direction, and their horses covered +every hill for a great distance round, grazing upon the upland bunch +grass which grew in great abundance, and though dry, retained its +nutritious properties instead of losing them like other grasses in the +autumn. + +When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a +dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care +is taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and +objects of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one +foot at night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain +until broad daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already +ranging over the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses +to some eligible spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young +Indian repairs occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to +see that all is well. So accustomed are the horses to this management, +that they keep together in the pasture where they have been left. As +the sun sinks behind the hills, they may be seen moving from all points +toward the camp, where they surrender themselves to be tied up for the +night. Even in situations of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over +their camp at night, intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant +and well-trained dogs. + +In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which +Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions +with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at +nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at +perfect liberty, until the morning. + +One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was +to procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however, +extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty +that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use +of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for +their equipment. + +In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November +to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from +thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but +it generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades +of new grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December, +however, the thermometer fell to seven degrees. + +The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in +Green River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by +a leader of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses, +to sojourn about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to +rejoin him at his winter camp on Salmon River. + +More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his +appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain +Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he +would have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning +him; for his route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads +itself out like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be +descried at a great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded +no further than the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were +lame; but it was evident they had feared to venture, with so small a +force, into these exposed and dangerous regions. + +A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now +appeared among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an +illness of three or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician, +prescribing profuse sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with +success, if the patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In +extraordinary cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own +doctors or conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but +with little benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in +graves, after the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the +direction of the head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this +malady made such ravages among the natives, not a single white man had +the slightest symptom of it. + +A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and +Flathead Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable +and inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them, +and conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly +feud between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably +the sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and +urged that they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific +conference, offering to send two of his men to the enemy's camp with +pipe, tobacco and flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting. + +The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two +days' duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long +talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length +they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain's proposition, and +upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge. + +"War," said the chiefs, "is a bloody business, and full of evil; but +it keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the +young men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we +see a trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we +know it is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds +no alarm; the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men +are sleek and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and +their little babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a +lie, and his tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he +comes to us as a brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees +us weak, and off our guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such +peace; let there be war!" + +With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since +the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in +a state of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted +vigilance which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He +represented to them the impossibility that two such considerable clans +could move about the country without leaving trails by which they might +be traced. Besides, among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces, +who had been taken prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors, +and trained up and imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had +lost all sympathies with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead +the enemy to their secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep +upon the alert, and never to remit their vigilance while within the +range of so crafty and cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon +his easy and simple-minded hearers. A careless indifference reigned +throughout their encampments, and their horses were permitted to range +the hills at night in perfect freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own +horses brought in at night, and properly picketed and guarded. The +evil he apprehended soon took place. In a single night a swoop was made +through the neighboring pastures by the Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the +finest horses carried off. A whip and a rope were left in a conspicuous +situation by the robbers, as a taunt to the simpletons they had +unhorsed. + +Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire +through the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses +remained safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an +outbreak of warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit +of the marauders; but no such thing--they contented themselves with +searching diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as +had escaped the hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to +their loss with the most exemplary quiescence. + +Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit +to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit +the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance. +To these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of +begging and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback. + +Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was +necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten +ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian +friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their +cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united +force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were +infested by bands of Blackfeet. + +They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented +as a perfect hunter's elysium. It was on the right branch, or head +stream of the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there +was no danger from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter. +Here, they said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be +seen trooping upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it, +also, herds of buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger. +Thither they proposed to move their camp. + +The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the +Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land. +Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved +forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the +late malady. + +Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered +a deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much +valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three +days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of +his free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible, +before the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened +away by the various Indian hunting parties. + +While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the +Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be +upon their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent +loss, were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some +secluded spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any +guard upon them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one +were carried off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the +first, and no effort was made either to recover the horses, or to take +vengeance on the thieves. + +The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their +remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and +fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that +this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and +persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should, +therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night +over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from +their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was +over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but +the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be +roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers. + +The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band +that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such +pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being +now picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated +in the early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here +they went about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at +home, quietly cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges +of their sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than +the rest, approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were +gambling with the most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time, +muffled up in his robe, peering over the shoulders of the players, +watching the changes of their countenances and the fluctuations of +the game. So completely engrossed were they, that the presence of this +muffled eaves-dropper was unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he +retired undiscovered. + +Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off, +the Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently +round the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty, +took their route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged +from the camp they were silently taken possession of, until, having +secured about thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered +off. The clatter of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They +gave the alarm, which soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still +all was quiescent; no marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds +and dashing off in pursuit, no talk of retribution for their repeated +outrages. The patience of Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He +had played the part of a pacificator without success; he now altered his +tone, and resolved, if possible, to rouse their war spirit. + +Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven +policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures +that would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if +not inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party +should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow +them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and +not to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he +recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to +the extent of the losses sustained. "Unless you rouse yourselves from +your apathy," said he, "and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will +cease to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws +and children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their +warriors reserve themselves for nobler antagonists." + +This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the +hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was +bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given +them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true, +but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez +Perces, without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose +men, who were not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an +increased watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind. +He disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other +chiefs concurred in his opinion. + +Captain Bonneville again took up the point. "It is true," said he, "the +Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has +also given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something +speedily to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say +farewell. As yet I have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions +which you have slighted; but my property is too unsafe here; my turn +will come next; I and my people will share the contempt you are bringing +upon yourselves, and will be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings, +who may at any time be plundered with impunity." + +The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of +the Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in +pursuit of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account +of the Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came +lagging back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down +horses, which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient +speed. This effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the +wounded pride of the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual +state of passive indifference. + + + + +13. + + Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot. + +IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the +spirit of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp +to whom they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado, +named Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of +the same tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted +into the tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race, +and loathed the peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The +hunting of the deer, the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of +their ambition, was too tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature. +His heart burned for the foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper, +and all the haps and hazards of roving and predatory warfare. + +The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly +prowls and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and +a flutter, like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping +and screaming in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain +Bonneville to rouse the war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them +to retaliation, was ardently seconded by Kosato. For several days he +was incessantly devising schemes of vengeance, and endeavoring to set +on foot an expedition that should carry dismay and desolation into the +Blackfeet town. All his art was exerted to touch upon those springs +of human action with which he was most familiar. He drew the listening +savages round him by his nervous eloquence; taunted them with recitals +of past wrongs and insults; drew glowing pictures of triumphs and +trophies within their reach; recounted tales of daring and romantic +enterprise, of secret marchings, covert lurkings, midnight surprisals, +sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings; together with the triumphant +return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the victors. These wild tales +were intermingled with the beating of the drum, the yell, the war-whoop +and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor. All, however, were +lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a Nez Perce was to be +roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In the bitterness +of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap which had +severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to take +refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire. + +The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain +Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted +his tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility. +Kosato told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep, +strong passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics. + +"You see my wife," said he, "she is good; she is beautiful--I love her. +Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of +my chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked +together; we laughed together; we were always seeking each other's +society; but we were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous, +and commanded her to speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward +her; his jealousy grew more furious. He beat her without cause and +without mercy; and threatened to kill her outright if she even looked at +me. Do you want traces of his fury? Look at that scar! His rage against +me was no less persecuting. War parties of the Crows were hovering +round us; our young men had seen their trail. All hearts were roused for +action; my horses were before my lodge. Suddenly the chief came, took +them to his own pickets, and called them his own. What could I do? he +was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was burning. I joined no +longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast. What had I to do +there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself, and thought of +nothing but these wrongs and outrages. + +"I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where +the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing +among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a +time over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I +loved had endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and +my teeth were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief +walking among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk's; my +blood boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an +instant I was on my feet; my hand was on my knife--I flew rather than +ran--before he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him +dead at my feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over +the place; then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and +urged her to fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded +her of the wrongs I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had +endured from the deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I +again urged her to fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My +heart was heavy, but my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. ''Tis well,' +said I; 'Kosato will go alone to the desert. None will be with him but +the wild beasts of the desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his +trail. They may come upon him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but +you will be safe. Kosato will go alone.' + +"I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. 'No,' +she cried, 'Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go--he +shall never part from me.' + +"We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and +stealing quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we +encountered. Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They +received us with welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They +are good and kind; they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of +women." + +Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville. +It is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements +from tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and +heroines of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and +lasting feuds. + + + + +14. + + The party enters the mountain gorge--A wild fastness among + hills--Mountain mutton--Peace and plenty--The amorous + trapper-A piebald wedding--A free trapper's wife--Her gala + equipments--Christmas in the wilderness. + +ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians +raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork +of Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so +temptingly described by the Indians. + +Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand +or coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive +limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter +cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow +breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding +heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills +afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses. + +As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of +the mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so +narrow, rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid +retreat, and to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore, +refrained from venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better +chance, when they should once more emerge into the open country. + +Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the +advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large +flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be +seen bounding among the precipices. These simple animals were easily +circumvented and destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill +as many as they please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the +flesh of those which were young and fat was extolled as superior to the +finest mutton. + +Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm. +Past ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the +story, the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away, +and plenty and security reigned throughout the camp. + +Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony, +in civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness. +Filled with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers +began to repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the +force of that great law of nature, "it is not meet for man to live +alone." + +After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the +Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his +bosom. + +"I want," said he, "a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a +young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and +finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share +my lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of +my lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness." +Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and +procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the +search. At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and +informed him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of +the afternoon. He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached, +leading the bride, a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian +finery. Her father, mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by +the score, all followed on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and +important relative. + +The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper +solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the +great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs, +then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the +bride, from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth +of the whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most +profound and becoming silence. + +After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn +ceremonial, the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable +length the duties of a wife which, among Indians, are little less +onerous than those of the pack-horse; this done, he turned to her +friends and congratulated them upon the great alliance she had made. +They showed a due sense of their good fortune, especially when the +nuptial presents came to be distributed among the chiefs and relatives, +amounting to about one hundred and eighty dollars. The company soon +retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed that he had no green +girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once assumed the style and +dignity of a trapper's wife: taking possession of the lodge as her +undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her own taste and +habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy terms with the +trapper as if they had been man and wife for years. + +We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as +furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion +picture, his description of a free trapper's wife, that the reader +may have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in +question had invoked to solace him in the wilderness. + +"The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse; +but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony +occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of +ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still +more fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses. + +"No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her +notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the +purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the +utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to +be equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw? +Perish the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse +for her own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as +is sometimes assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his +squaw and her pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the +most beautiful animal she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his +decoration: headstall, breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly +embroidered with beads, and hung with thimbles, hawks' bells, and +bunches of ribbons. From each side of the saddle hangs an esquimoot, +a sort of pocket, in which she bestows the residue of her trinkets and +nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the decoration of her horse or +herself. Over this she folds, with great care, a drapery of scarlet and +bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the caparison of her steed +complete. + +"As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair, +esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited, +and made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her +riding hat is stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned +somewhat after that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes +gray cloth, but always of the finest texture that can be procured. +Her leggings and moccasins are of the most beautiful and expensive +workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the foot and ankle, which with the +Indian woman are generally well formed and delicate. Then as to jewelry: +in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings, necklaces, and other female +glories, nothing within reach of the trapper's means is omitted that can +tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the lady's high estate. To +finish the whole, she selects from among her blankets of various dyes +one of some glowing color, and throwing it over her shoulders with a +native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay, prancing steed, and +is ready to follow her mountaineer 'to the last gasp with love and +loyalty.'" + +Such is the general picture of the free trapper's wife, given by Captain +Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question +does not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her +connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp +and circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that +wherever there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest +rivalry exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands' +purses. Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by +endeavors to eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies +and heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of +nature are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and +fashion in the luxurious abodes of civilized life. + +The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom +lights up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard +upon the wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends, +Captain Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed +to suffer the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good +cheer, and were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to "light +up the yule clog," and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the +wilderness. + +On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and +rejoicings. In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the +lodge of the Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted +him with a feude joie. + +Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in +which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited +the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was +gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief! +There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet +was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed +for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up +abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter +roots which the Indians use as condiments. + +After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in +Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity. +After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and +Indians closed the Christmas festivities. + + + + +15. + + A hunt after hunters--Hungry times--A voracious repast-- + Wintry weather--Godin's River--Splendid winter scene on the + great--Lava Plain of Snake River--Severe travelling and + tramping in the snow--Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian + horseman--Encampment on Snake River--Banneck Indians--The + horse chief--His charmed life. + +THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time, +caused great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding +there was no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage +of scouting parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set +out himself on the search, and to keep on until he should ascertain +something of the object of his solicitude. + +Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by +thirteen stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for +dangerous enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the +head of the mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As +they confidently expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other +predatory horde, they moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant +watch in their encampments. + +In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River, +and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day's defile. It was +severe and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter +blasts of wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game +was scarce, so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the +want of pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor +of the horses. + +The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two +of the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping +back in great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of +savages, evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and +nothing had saved them from being entrapped but the speed of their +horses. + +These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored +to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment, +and its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven +in and picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of +trees and the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier +was maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away +without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to +discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night; +not a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel +with which the plain was covered. + +Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of +surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the +foot of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the +next day that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the +plain, among rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half +without a mouthful of food, they took especial care that these animals +should not escape them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced +cautiously with their rifles into the rough ground, four of the best +mounted horsemen took their stations in the plain, to run the bulls down +should they only be maimed. + +The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The +half-famished horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen +ground, but succeeded in driving them on the ice, where they slipped +and fell, and were easily dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with +beef for present and future supply, and then returned and encamped +at the last nights's fire. Here they passed the remainder of the day, +cooking and eating with a voracity proportioned to previous starvation, +forgetting in the hearty revel of the moment the certain dangers with +which they were environed. + +The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about +their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships +they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard, +taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the +lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the +stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye +could reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently +deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the +icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through +want of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible +famine like that they had already experienced. + +With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride; +and, having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back +until it was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated +the difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have +flinched from the undertaking. + +Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the +course of a stream called John Day's Creek. The cold was so intense that +they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should +freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough +even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high +mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the +cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches +in depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat +their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day's +journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by +the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps +of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small +branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood. + +In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down +John Day's Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped +upon the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat +down and clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses. + +Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter +in the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet. +Many of the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after +scenes of violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It +was an act of filial vengeance on the part of Godin's son Antoine that, +as the reader may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre's +Hole. + +From Godin's River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon +the plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated +hills that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of +Snake River, one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains. +Could they have experienced a respite from their sufferings and +anxieties, the immense landscape spread out before them was calculated +to inspire admiration. Winter has its beauties and glories as well as +summer; and Captain Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them. + +Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the +lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever +the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth +from among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock +and frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall +pines seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with +minute icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy +trees conjured up by the caliph's story-teller to adorn his vale of +diamonds. + +The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were +in no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they +stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight +in more genial situations. + +Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so +that it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here +the horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for +once they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that, +in the morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered +round and mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their +half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce +blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat +the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed +next to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts, +when, fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party. +Into this they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty. +Shortly afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and +was instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and +crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after +which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men +reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing +fire gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation. + +Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more +facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the +mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the +day they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before +them on the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better +mounted on a fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring +them with evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers, +their leggings, blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped +off with feathers, even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed +complexions, gave them the look of Indians rather than white men, and +made him mistake them for a war party of some hostile tribe. + +After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a +parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing +prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a +breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for +defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to +be approached within speaking distance. + +He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at +no great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that +he was conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his +reserve and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence +that there were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood. +This was cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one +of them the long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore, +with renovated spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there +fixed his encampment. + +Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made +about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men. +An encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river, +in which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu's +men, from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there +in the course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and +self-gratulation to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his +dreary and doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time +in this encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give +needful repose to men and horses. + +It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering +grounds in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound +its devious way between low banks through the great plain of the Three +Butes; and was bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with +islands which, like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves +of cotton-wood, thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and +abundance of green rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent +that no single band of Indians could drive the buffalo out of them; +nor was the snow of sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience. +Indeed, during the sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood, +which was in the heart of winter, he found the weather, with the +exception of a few cold and stormy days, generally mild and pleasant, +freezing a little at night but invariably thawing with the morning's +sun-resembling the spring weather in the middle parts of the United +States. + +The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky +Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west +of the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and +Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white +robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into +the plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in +quest of food; where they are easily slain in great numbers. + +Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to +which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty +band of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it +unwise for those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an +overpowering force. + +About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering +about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors +and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles +where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising +in warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet +towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories +and house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the +rest with bows and arrows. + +As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River +and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax +fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh +of deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and +are met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving +in exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon +the tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the +rise of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their +horses, although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent +stock from being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but +two years old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses, +also, than most of these migratory tribes. + +At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these +Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The +Horse. This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be +invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been +in repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had +shown great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of +the great men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of +trappers passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had +been sworn by the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself +the friend of white men and, having great influence and authority among +his people, he compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to +conduct themselves amicably whenever they came in contact with the +traders. + +This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the +Blackfeet upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His +fall in nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for +they declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of +horn which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no +doubt, of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with +sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory +propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become +troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of +traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any +small party that might fall within their reach. + + + + +16. + + Misadventures of Matthieu and his party--Return to the + caches at Salmon River--Battle between Nez Perces and Black + feet--Heroism of a Nez Perce woman--Enrolled among the + braves. + +ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived +in camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain +Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward, +keeping to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky +chain. Here he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses, +and soon discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the +Shoshonie bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much +frequented by trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to +rejoin Captain Bonneville. + +He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of +an Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped +during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in +snow and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with +nine horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear +River, where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the +camp. + +They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was +discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced +a lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long +as their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained +the wary savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly +encamped, in a situation where they might be approached with secrecy, +the enemy crept stealthily along under cover of the river bank, +preparing to burst suddenly upon their prey. + +They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they +were discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently +gave the alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and +prepared to retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named +Jennings, doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted +his horse wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to +mount, but in vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of +firearms by the savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his +nerves that he was unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing +his peril and confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect +him. A shot from a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he +called upon the others not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross, +after fighting desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining +two vaulted into their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight, +being pursued for nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu's +camp, where their story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the +hunters could not be prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest +of provisions. They remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp; +now and then killing an old or disabled horse for food, while the +elk and the mountain sheep roamed unmolested among the surrounding +mountains. + +The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain +Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious +encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to +traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state +of their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night, +the position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night +watches. The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given +to hair-brained assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe +well prepared and on the alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a +protection against him as courage. + +The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet; +until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the +Bannecks, a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having +belonged to one of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied +having taken these spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the +outrage had been perpetrated by a Blackfoot band. + +Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the +arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered +strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez +Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might +take thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly, +leaving sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February +with sixteen others on his journey to the caches. + +Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he +encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he +was again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River +plain, where it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently +incrusted to bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the +crust, and plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by +the ice that it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards, +and put a different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies +were swept by a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night, +they had to task their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from +freezing. In the first place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling +it up in ramparts to windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath +these they spread buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves +in full dress, with caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves +with numerous blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often +severely pinched with the cold. + +On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This +stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the +Malade River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about +twenty yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives +its name, and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about +forty miles, it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks. + +On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to +come upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where +he remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and +dry a supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was +moderate and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height. +There was abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful +in clayey and gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its +name from a partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses +in the winter, but they reject it the moment the young grass affords +sufficient pasturage. + +On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed +their march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they +had to make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the +wind. + +On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part +of the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were +sent out to reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a +hunting party of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with +meat. Captain Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them +to proceed with his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he +proposed also to invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere +in this neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that +friendly tribe who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had +likewise been out to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted +and harassed by their old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had +contrived to carry off many of their horses. + +In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges +separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their +horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot +banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and +determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping +ground of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which +they hid themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some +straggler who might guide them to the present "whereabout" of their +intended victims. As fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot +renegade, was the first to pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought +bride. He was on his way from the main body of hunters to the little +band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet knew and marked him as he passed; he +was within bowshot of their ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for +his blood, they forbore to launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment +that he might lead them to their prey. Secretly following his trail, +they discovered the lodges of the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed +them with shouts and yellings. The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men, +and but nine were armed with fusees. They showed themselves, however, +as brave and skilful in war as they had been mild and long-suffering in +peace. Their first care was to dig holes inside of their lodges; thus +ensconced they fought desperately, laying several of the enemy dead upon +the ground; while they, though Some of them were wounded, lost not a +single warrior. + +During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her +warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows, +and bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the +safety of the whole party. + +In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind +the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert. +A Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before +him as he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the +tree behind which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless +interest; whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot. +The Nez Perce put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he +Sprang upon his feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the +back of his antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of +the horses, several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez +Perces, ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves +to the last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party +was a renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no +vindictive rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now +he had got the booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He +held a long parley, therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off +his warriors, taking with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward, +that the bullets of the Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the +course of the battle, so that they were obliged to make use of stones as +substitute. + +At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather +than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the +head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body +remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the +horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors +paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with +them to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and +they passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving +way to passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She +was not mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck +him, had stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful +wife he gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and +hatred of his tribe. + +As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was +elevated by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other +honorable distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in +the war dances of the braves! + + + + +17. + + Opening of the caches--Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss + Salmon River Mountains--Superstition of an Indian trapper-- + Godin's River--Preparations for trapping--An alarm--An + interruption--A rival band--Phenomena of Snake River Plain + Vast clefts and chasms--Ingulfed streams--Sublime scenery--A + grand buffalo hunt. + +CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having +secretly opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to +equip the free trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with +the Indians, after which he closed them again. The free trappers, being +newly rigged out and supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly +about the camp. To compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give +a cheerful spur to further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the +men what, in frontier phrase, is termed "a regular blow-out." It was a +day of uncouth gambols and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined +in the sports and games, and all was mirth and good-fellowship. + +It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations +to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his +main trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among +the great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding +course falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain +dispatched Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and +purchase horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a +small stock of goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the +spring, for such peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches +on Salmon River as the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin +him on the 15th of June following. + +This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men +composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with +eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River, +as it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled +very slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were +so weak that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage, +however, was now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass, +which in some places had attained such height as to wave in the wind. +The native flocks of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are +called by the trappers, were continually to be seen upon the hills +between which they passed, and a good supply of mutton was provided by +the hunters, as they were advancing toward a region of scarcity. + +In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark +an instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail +among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to +the sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the +habit of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of +"beaver lodges," and occasionally set their traps with some success. +One of them, however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was +invariably unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad +luck, he at length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his +person of which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach. +He immediately set about a thorough purification. Making a rude +sweating-house on the banks of the river, he would shut himself up until +in a reeking perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge +into the river. A number of these sweatings and plungings having, as +he supposed, rendered his person perfectly "inodorous," he resumed his +trapping with renovated hope. + +About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin's River, where +they found the swamp full of "musk-rat houses." Here, therefore, Captain +Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular +attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he +promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat +they should take. All now set to work for the next day's sport. The +utmost animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything +looked auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats +in the swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find +when they should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver +country all to themselves, where they might trap at their leisure +without molestation. + +In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp, +shouting, or rather yelling, "A trail! a trail!--lodge poles! lodge +poles!" + +These were words full of meaning to a trapper's ear. They intimated that +there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party, +as they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told +his story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by +the dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too, +had just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the +hunters had already been on the range. + +The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat +trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the +trail. Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed +the unknown party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival +band of trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that +too by a party already in the advance, who were driving the game before +them. Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions +to which a trapper's life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an +uninterrupted hunt was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom +and disappointment. + +Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the +rival party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he +turned his back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed +on at "long camps", which in trapper's language is equivalent to long +stages. On the 6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on +the trail like hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of +Godin's defile. Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two +prime trappers, all well appointed, with excellent horses in capital +condition led by Milton Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie, +and in full march for the Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news. +The Malade River was the only trapping ground within reach; but to have +to compete there with veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the +mountains, and admirably mounted, while they were so poorly provided +with horses and trappers, and had but one man in their party acquainted +with the country-it was out of the question. + +The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep +among the mountains of Godin's River and blocked up the usual pass +to the Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain +Bonneville's horses should get once more into good condition in their +present ample pasturage. + +The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but +to keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any +possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie +endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay +so deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain's +horses were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which +had been worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was +increasing his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his +favor. + +To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty +of getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the +intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that, +apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases. + +Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and +sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of +these mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges +resembling the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore. + +In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and +dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth. +Captain Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but +without any satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them +reverberated against the sides for apparently a very great depth, and, +by its sound, indicated the same kind of substance with the surface, as +long as the strokes could be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious +in avoiding danger, shrinks back in alarm from the least of these +chasms, pricking up his ears, snorting and pawing, until permitted to +turn away. + +We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it +is sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one +of these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin's +River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this +plain; some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding, +no doubt, subterranean outlets. + +Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over +precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other +forty feet in height. + +The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in +diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste; +where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but +lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville's +opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion +of nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely, +and dominate this wide sea of lava--one of the most striking features +of a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple +grandeur. + +We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this +sublime but almost unknown region. + +It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers +broke up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest +end of the mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various +points of the mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava +plain, stretching away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye +could reach. On the evening of the 26th they reached the plain west +of the mountain, watered by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams, +which comprised the contemplated trapping-ground. + +The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain +Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West, +presenting the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of +bright running streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze. + +We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which +lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the +rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap +each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped +about various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set +forward early in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On +the way, he treated his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re +ported numerous herds in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was +an immediate halt; the fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the +party advanced to the summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great +plain below; absolutely swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now +appointed the place where he would encamp; and toward which the hunters +were to drive the game. He cautioned the latter to advance slowly, +reserving the strength and speed of the horses until within a moderate +distance of the herds. Twenty-two horsemen descended cautiously into +the plain, conformably to these directions. "It was a beautiful sight," +says the captain, "to see the runners, as they are called, advancing in +column, at a slow trot, until within two hundred and fifty yards of the +outskirts of the herd, then dashing on at full speed until lost in the +immense multitude of buffaloes scouring the plain in every direction." +All was now tumult and wild confusion. In the meantime Captain +Bonneville and the residue of the party moved on to the appointed +camping ground; thither the most expert runners succeeded in driving +numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the camp, and the flesh +transported thither without difficulty. In a little while the whole camp +looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses were skilfully +cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying and jerking +beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence. On the +15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain +Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches. + +Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all +in good health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies +of various kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae +distributed throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality +this merry meeting. + + + + +18. + + Meeting with Hodgkiss--Misfortunes of the Nez Perces-- + Schemes of Kosato, the renegado--His foray into the Horse + Prairie--Invasion of Black feet--Blue John and his forlorn + hope--Their generous enterprise--Their fate--Consternation + and despair of the village--Solemn obsequies--Attempt at + Indian trade--Hudson's Bay Company's monopoly--Arrangements + for autumn--Breaking up of an encampment. + +HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain +Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the +secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly +into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had +remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and +learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently +befallen that ill-fated race. + +After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade +Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his +strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now +resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon +their old enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and +robberies they had recently experienced, and assuring them that such +would continue to be their lot until they proved themselves men by some +signal retaliation. + +The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect; +and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the +Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and +commit all kinds of depredations. + +Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he +came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate +their force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely +seconded by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody; +at length, as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held +a long parley, or rather a war of words. + +"What need," said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, "have the Nez Perces +to leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have +danger enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your +villages; you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have +hitherto made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A +great force is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and +are determined to rub out the very name of the Nez Perces from the +mountains. Return, I say, to your towns, and fight there, if you wish to +live any longer as a people." + +Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native +tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told +all that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous +measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their +accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and +as often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at +present, and, of course, took no precautions. + +They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a +band of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All +now was consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was +too small to cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men +having gone to their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The +sages met in hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow +which threatened annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a +Pierced-nose chief, named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach +secretly with a small, but chosen band, through a defile which led to +the encampment of the enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the +horses. Should this blow be successful, the spirit and strength of the +invaders would be broken, and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be +more than a match for them. Should it fail, the village would not be +worse off than at present, when destruction appeared inevitable. + +Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow +Blue John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the +solemnity and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his +medicine, or talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge +as a supernatural protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise +would be completely successful, provided no rain should fall before he +had passed through the defile; but should it rain, his band would be +utterly cut off. + +The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies +would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope; +and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and +horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring +style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers. + +The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as +they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and +there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to +read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John +remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was +their hope to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the +Blackfoot camp; but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they +met a scouting party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among +the hills, and were pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard +shouts and yells behind them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet +advancing. + +The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant +retreat. "We came to fight!" replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his +war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed +him. They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of +victory, but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful +carnage, rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid +heaps of their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with +numbers and pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued +to fight until they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty, +survived. He sprang on the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had +slain, and escaping at full speed, brought home the baleful tidings to +his village. + +Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower +of their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The +air was rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting +off their ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically +bewailing the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The +remaining warriors armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed +by their gloomy looks and sullen silence that they considered defence +hopeless. To their surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing +their advantage; perhaps satisfied with the blood already shed, or +disheartened by the loss they had themselves sustained. At any rate, +they disappeared from the hills, and it was soon ascertained that they +had returned to the Horse Prairie. + +The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of +their warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away +the bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless +trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely +they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off; +a proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe +renowned for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the +Indian victor thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the +deceased. + +Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across +their pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the +village. The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing +cries and wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom +and sorrow seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost +undistinguishable bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the +midst of the assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and +lamentation that ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian +stoicism. + +Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe +during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that +Kosato, the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been +prevented from going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse +the vindictive feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to +revenge the slaughter of their devoted braves. + +During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one +of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at +this time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians +encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they +had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with +a resident trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was stationed among +them, and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the +trader was almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply +not having yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence +that the supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped, +how-ever, by a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the +market to himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he +opened his packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares: +bright cloths, and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and +everything gay and glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all, +however, was in vain. The Hudson's Bay trader was a perfect master of +his business, thoroughly acquainted with the Indians he had to deal +with, and held such control over them that none dared to act openly in +opposition to his wishes; nay, more--he came nigh turning the tables +upon the captain, and shaking the allegiance of some of his free +trappers, by distributing liquors among them. The latter, therefore, was +glad to give up a competition, where the war was likely to be carried +into his own camp. + +In fact, the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company have advantages over +all competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge +monopoly centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and +long-established power and influence; but also those of its ancient +rival, but now integral part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus +its races of traders, trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought +up in its service, and inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge +and aptitude in everything connected with Indian life, and Indian +traffic. In the process of years, this company has been enabled to +spread its ramifications in every direction; its system of intercourse +is founded upon a long and intimate knowledge of the character and +necessities of the various tribes; and of all the fastnesses, defiles, +and favorable hunting grounds of the country. Their capital, also, and +the manner in which their supplies are distributed at various posts, +or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their traders well supplied, and +enable them to furnish their goods to the Indians at a cheap rate. Their +men, too, being chiefly drawn from the Canadas, where they enjoy great +influence and control, are engaged at the most trifling wages, and +supported at little cost; the provisions which they take with them being +little more than Indian corn and grease. They are brought also into the +most perfect discipline and subordination, especially when their +leaders have once got them to their scene of action in the heart of the +wilderness. + +These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson's Bay +Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come +within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost +hopeless. + +Shortly after Captain Bonneville's ineffectual attempt to participate +in the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson's Bay +Company arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the +market. + +It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month +Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green +River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the +preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and +prepared for the journey. + +The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country; +which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie +immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads +of the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies; +but they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois +had, latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves +to the Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their +migrations rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages +of the Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would +range their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this +was their reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal +hunting ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his +engagements required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River +Valley; and he had already formed his ulterior plans. + +An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a +stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey; +the route lay through Pierre's Hole, and other mountain passes infested +by the Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They +were not disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers, +when they had good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the +head-waters of Salmon River. + +As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt +to be law--who had the whole wilderness before them, "where to choose," +and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their +services--it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain Bonneville +fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question; +appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing +a rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing +winter. The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or +five hired men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of +a trapping party; which when accurately organized is composed of two +thirds trappers whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of +game; and one third camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the +tents, take care of the horses and do all other duties usually assigned +by the Indians to their women. This part of the service is apt to +be fulfilled by French creoles from Canada and the valley of the +Mississippi. + +In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade +and received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various +directions. As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a +mountain to the northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would +have to pass; and as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had +their scouts out watching every movement of the encampments, so as to +cut off stragglers or weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed +upon the Nez Perces to accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they +should be beyond the range of the enemy. + +The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at +the same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the +Blackfeet; while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in +an opposite direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre's +Hole, on his way to Green River. + +Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same +moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and +picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their +rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons, +their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with +packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening +cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the +plains and mountains. + + + + +19. + + Precautions in dangerous defiles--Trappers' mode of defence + on a prairie--A mysterious visitor--Arrival in Green River + Valley--Adventures of the detachments--The forlorn partisan + --His tale of disasters. + +AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the +most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures +with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When +on the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to +reconnoitre the country through which they were to pass. The encampments +were selected with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day. +The horses were brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a +party was sent out to scour the neighborhood for half a mile round, +beating up every grove and thicket that could give shelter to a lurking +foe. When all was reported safe, the horses were cast loose and turned +out to graze. Were such precautions generally observed by traders and +hunters, we should not so often hear of parties being surprised by the +Indians. + +Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here +mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from +a veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey +with a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses +under his care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided +with a picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern +fetters for the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a +long line; or sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from +each other to prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when +there is no covert at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to +the rear and form a circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into +the ground in the centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their +forelegs, so that, in case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they +unload them, and dispose of their packs as breastworks on the periphery +of the circle; each man having nine packs behind which to shelter +himself. In this promptly-formed fortress, they await the assault of the +enemy, and are enabled to set large bands of Indians at defiance. + +The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry's +Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American +trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all +hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary +female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on +a mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched +round the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently +into the midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground, +still holding her horse by the long halter. + +The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet +resolute demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and +trappers gathered round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She +remained silent, but maintained her air of calmness and self-possession. +Captain Bonneville approached and interrogated her as to the object +of her mysterious visit. Her answer was brief but earnest--"I love the +whites--I will go with them." She was forthwith invited to a lodge, +of which she readily took possession, and from that time forward was +considered one of the camp. + +In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain +Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous +region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of +a horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called +the Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson's and Pierre's Hole, fell +over the brink, and was dashed to pieces. + +On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River. +As he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with +the carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently +been there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to +a halt, and as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of +rendezvous on Horse Creek, where he had expected to meet with his +detached parties of trappers on the following day. Early in the morning +the spies made their appearance in the camp, and with them came three +trappers of one of his bands, from the rendezvous, who told him his +people were all there expecting him. As to the slaughter among the +buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band of Shoshonies, who had +fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and accompanied them to the +rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the three worthies from +the rendezvous broached a small keg of "alcohol," which they had brought +with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor went briskly round; +all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved forward to the +rendezvous in high spirits. + +The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other +on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its +tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the +various detachments of Captain Bonneville's company, thus brought +together on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which +he had sent from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to +winter on Snake River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the +course of their spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men. +They had come in competition with rival trapping parties, particularly +one belonging to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long +stories to relate of their manoeuvres to forestall or distress each +other. In fact, in these virulent and sordid competitions, the trappers +of each party were more intent upon injuring their rivals, than +benefitting themselves; breaking each other's traps, trampling and +tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every thing in their +power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail these pitiful +contentions. + +The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville +had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding +year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow +country, and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was +to proceed and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This +partisan appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful +tale of disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell +in with a village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse +stealers, and errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of +his men to desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When +he attempted to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to +him and declared the deserters were their good friends, had determined +to remain among them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan, +therefore, was fain to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their +own feather, and being too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous +pass across the mountains to meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he +made, with the few that remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood +of Tullock's Fort, on the Yellowstone, under the protection of which he +went into winter quarters. + +He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad +as the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing +away thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their +hands on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for +whiskey, and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery. + +The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a +few free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off +early in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the +course of the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a +steep mountain, that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during +the night. The place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the +sign of an Indian in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had +been turned by a footstep. But who can calculate on security in the +midst of the Indian country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy, +and seems to come and go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce +been turned loose, when a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors +entered the camp. They affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their +appearance and movements awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran +trappers, well versed in Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies +sent on some sinister errand, they took them in custody, and set to work +to drive in the horses. It was too late--the horses were already gone. +In fact, a war party of Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for +several days, watching with the patience and perseverance of Indians, +for some moment of negligence and fancied security, to make a successful +swoop. The two spies had evidently been sent into the camp to create a +diversion, while their confederates carried off the spoil. + +The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his +prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them +to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon +found that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on +horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very +horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment; +but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their +steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was +now attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to +barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers +spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were +relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to +their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a +blaze. + +The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another, +in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of +the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of +the captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many +parting words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart, +and knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort +to escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and +retaken; then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the +sight of their retreating comrades. + +Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who +mingle in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible +recrimination on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any +atrocities committed by the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this +signal and recent provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the +kind dwell in the recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of +honor and conscience to revenge them. + +The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It +was out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party; +the only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first +water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the +stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments +at which they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the +partisan, he found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous +at Green River Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain +Bonneville this forlorn account of his misadventures. + + + + +20. + + Gathering in Green River valley--Visitings and feastings of + leaders--Rough wassailing among the trappers--Wild blades of + the mountains--Indian belles--Potency of bright beads and + red blankets--Arrival of supplies--Revelry and extravagance + --Mad wolves--The lost Indian + +THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those +general gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have +already mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past +had been endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were +here encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About +four miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the +American Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain +Fur Company. + +After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these +companies in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus +brought in juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly +aloof from each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl +and bloodshed would ensue. + +No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar, +meet with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting +season over, all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and +bickerings buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of +September, all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding +their furs and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the +trapper's holiday, when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a +saturnalia among the mountains. + +At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had +been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits, +had quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn +every favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling +at their respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in +possession of a rich stock of peltries. + +The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of +perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other +in the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich +treat for the worthy captain was to see the "chivalry" of the various +encampments, engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping, +wrestling, shooting with the rifle, and running horses. And then their +rough hunters' feastings and carousels. They drank together, they sang, +they laughed, they whooped; they tried to out-brag and out-lie each +other in stories of their adventures and achievements. Here the free +trappers were in all their glory; they considered themselves the "cocks +of the walk," and always carried the highest crests. Now and then +familiarity was pushed too far, and would effervesce into a brawl, and a +"rough and tumble" fight; but it all ended in cordial reconciliation and +maudlin endearment. + +The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause +temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects +of rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper +who could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper +of precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair +one. + +The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period +of gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager +competition and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales +were hastily ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth. +A mania for purchasing spread itself throughout the several +bands--munitions for war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon +with equal avidity--rifles, hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red +blankets, garish beads, and glittering trinkets, were bought at any +price, and scores run up without any thought how they were ever to be +rubbed off. The free trappers, especially, were extravagant in their +purchases. For a free mountaineer to pause at a paltry consideration of +dollars and cents, in the attainment of any object that might strike his +fancy, would stamp him with the mark of the beast in the estimation of +his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of these free and flourishing +blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might stare him in the face, +would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be forgiven. + +Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers +were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses +caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted +about in all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality +was indulged to its fullest extent, and in a little while most of +the trappers, having squandered away all their wages, and perhaps +run knee-deep in debt, were ready for another hard campaign in the +wilderness. + +During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves +in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps +for three nights successively, and bit several of the people. + +Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal +favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals. +Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy, +and lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted +and urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him, +and, leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth, +gnashing his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his +senses, and warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not +be able to restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain +relief; but on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and +his accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards +a solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a +valley, and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the +mountains, and was seen no more. + +Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the +encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been +bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on +his return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed +symptoms of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length, +breaking away from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows, +where they left him to his fate! + + + + +21. + + Schemes of Captain Bonneville--The Great Salt Lake + Expedition to explore it--Preparations for a journey to the + Bighorn + +CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy, +well-seasoned and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited +by at least one year's experience among the mountains, and capable of +protecting themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing +for their subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an +excellent troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service. +He determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of +his scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the +unknown tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the +buffalo range. This would have something of the merit and charm of +discovery, so dear to every brave and adventurous spirit. Another +favorite project was to establish a trading post on the lower part +of the Columbia River, near the Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to +retrieve for his country some of the lost trade of Astoria. + +The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his +mind--the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of the +wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression +on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal +charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the +mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those +vast and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of +the Pacific. + +Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from +the land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you +behold this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and +stretching further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse, +until the eye, wearied with continued and strained attention, rests +in the blue dimness of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains, +confidently asserted to rise from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to +you, the smooth and unruffled surface is studded with little islands, +where the mountain sheep roam in considerable numbers. What extent of +lowland may be encompassed by the high peaks beyond, must remain for the +present matter of mere conjecture though from the form of the summits, +and the breaks which may be discovered among them, there can be little +doubt that they are the sources of streams calculated to water large +tracts, which are probably concealed from view by the rotundity of the +lake's surface. At some future day, in all probability, the rich harvest +of beaver fur, which may be reasonably anticipated in such a spot, will +tempt adventurers to reduce all this doubtful region to the palpable +certainty of a beaten track. At present, however, destitute of the means +of making boats, the trapper stands upon the shore, and gazes upon a +promised land which his feet are never to tread. + +Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to +this great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas +concerning it from the representations of others, who have somewhat +exaggerated its features. It is reported to be about one hundred and +fifty miles long, and fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks +which Captain Bonneville speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are +probably the summits of mountains beyond it, which may be visible at +a vast distance, when viewed from an eminence, in the transparent +atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several large islands certainly exist +in the lake; one of which is said to be mountainous, but not by any +means to the extent required to furnish the series of peaks above +mentioned. + +Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains, +is said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake, +who professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered +excessively from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and +there being no fresh streams running into it. + +Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished +the circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large +streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring, +when the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows, +the lake rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer, +it gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt +upon its shores. + +The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is +estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above +the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the +atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report +of firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme +dryness, causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced +in former passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the +Rocky Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a +height is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though +the salt lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation. + +To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was +the grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was +one in which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed +it would be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams +with which the lake must be fringed. + +This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in +whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him +to keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his +route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his +journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of +his route, and of the surrounding country. + +No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men, +which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were +to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear +River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point +of general rendezvous. + +The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe +transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic +States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time +in the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up +their supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries +collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow +country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend +in boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St. +Louis. + +Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same +route, under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would +accompany Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal +hunt in the Crow country. + + + + +22. + + The Crow country--A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows-- + Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man--His fights with + the Blackfeet--His elevation--His death--Arapooish, the Crow + chief--His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell--Honor among + Crows + +BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will +impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who +inhabit it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are +any, of the country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from +the Black Hills to the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty +ranges, and embracing many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind +River, the Yellowstone, the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the +Nebraska. The country varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains +of sand and clay, studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are +mountainous and picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines, +and abounds with game. + +But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a +Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. + +"The Crow country," said he, "is a good country. The Great Spirit has +put it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well; +whenever you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse. + +"If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains; +the water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague. + +"To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no +grass; you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is +a country without horses? + +"On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and +eat fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones +out of their mouths. Fish is poor food. + +"To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the +muddy water of the Missouri--that is bad. A Crow's dog would not drink +such water. + +"About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good +grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow +country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no +salt weed for the horses. + +"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains +and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every +season. When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under +the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the +bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can +hunt the elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for +dressing; there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep. + +"In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain +pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap +beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in +the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for +yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in +the Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance. + +"The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to +be found there. There is no country like the Crow country." + +Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish. + +We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory +habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but +their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory +habits, are gradually wearing them out. + +In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose, +an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter +to Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to +Astoria, who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and +who remained among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting +their congenial habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of +that renegade may not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected +with the fortunes of the tribe. + +Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his +daring deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He +aspired to command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate +exploits. He distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet. +On one occasion, a band of those savages had fortified themselves within +a breastwork, and could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work. +"Who will take the lead?" was the demand. "I!" cried he; and putting +himself at their head, rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed +him he shot down with his rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his +victim, killed four others within the fort. The victory was complete, +and Rose returned to the Crow village covered with glory, and bearing +five Blackfoot scalps, to be erected as a trophy before his lodge. From +this time, he was known among the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats, +or "the man who killed five." He became chief of the village, or rather +band, and for a time was the popular idol. His popularity soon awakened +envy among the native braves; he was a stranger, an intruder, a white +man. A party seceded from his command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded +that lasted for two or three years, until Rose, having contrived to set +his adopted brethren by the ears, left them, and went down the Missouri +in 1823. Here he fell in with one of the earliest trapping expeditions +sent by General Ashley across the mountains. It was conducted by +Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose enlisted with them as guide +and interpreter. When he got them among the Crows, he was exceedingly +generous with their goods; making presents to the braves of his adopted +tribe, as became a high-minded chief. + +This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition, +Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley; +the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse +Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the +instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was +the perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr. +Hunt and his party. + +The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General +Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to +protect the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation, +at which Rose figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The +military were stationed at some little distance from the scene of the +"big talk"; while the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and +making speeches, the officers, supposing all was friendly, left the +troops, and drew near the scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing +Crows, perceiving this, stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, +contrived to stop the touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly +after, a misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the +Indians, knowing the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult +arose. In the confusion, Colonel O'Fallan snapped a pistol in the face +of a brave, and knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all +in a fury. A chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when +Rose, his natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke +the stock of his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so +vigorously about him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng +to flight. Luckily, as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting +calmed the fury of the Crows, and the tumult ended without serious +consequences. + +What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly +known. Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by +his licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud +among the Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and +the influence he acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial +effects. He is said, not merely to have rendered them more formidable +to the Blackfeet, but to have opened their eyes to the policy of +cultivating the friendship of the white men. + +After Rose's death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with +indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who +had been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed +to develope. This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to +restrain the predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against +the white men. "If we keep friends with them," said he, "we have nothing +to fear from the Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains." Arapooish +pretended to be a great "medicine man", a character among the Indians +which is a compound of priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried +about with him a tame eagle, as his "medicine" or familiar. With the +white men, he acknowledged that this was all charlatanism, but said it +was necessary, to give him weight and influence among his people. + +Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the +course of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the +village of Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had +collected a large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered, +deposited but a part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a +cache. One night, Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and +seated himself for a time without saying a word. At length, turning to +Campbell, "You have more furs with you," said he, "than you have brought +into my lodge?" + +"I have," replied Campbell. + +"Where are they?" + +Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and +the importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where +he had concealed his peltries. + +"'Tis well," replied Arapooish; "you speak straight. It is just as you +say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been +taken from it." + +Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one +hundred and fifty beaver skins. + +Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached +his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and +commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back: +declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he +would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him. + +The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged +Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring +in the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered. + +In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at +a time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them +departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat +in one corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a +muscle of his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all +the skins had been brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and +Campbell expressed himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He +fasted all that night, nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some +more skins were brought in, and continued to come, one and two at a +time, throughout the day, until but a few were wanting to make the +number complete. Campbell was now anxious to put an end to this fasting +of the old chief, and again declared that he was perfectly satisfied. +Arapooish demanded what number of skins were yet wanting. On being told, +he whispered to some of his people, who disappeared. After a time the +number were brought in, though it was evident they were not any of the +skins that had been stolen, but others gleaned in the village. + +"Is all right now?" demanded Arapooish. + +"All is right," replied Campbell. + +"Good! Now bring me meat and drink!" + +When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his +guest. + +"When you come another time among the Crows," said he, "don't hide your +goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the +lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one +who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for +my sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may +be disposed to be troublesome. Don't linger, therefore, but pack your +horses and be off." + +Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow +country. He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black +as they are painted. "Trust to their honor," says he, "and you are safe: +trust to their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head." + +Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the +course of our narrative. + + + + +23. + + Departure from--Green River valley--Popo-Agie--Its course-- + The rivers into which it runs--Scenery of the Bluffs the + great Tar Spring--Volcanic tracts in the Crow country-- + Burning Mountain of Powder River--Sulphur springs--Hidden + fires--Colter's Hell-Wind River--Campbell's party-- + Fitzpatrick and his trappers--Captain Stewart, an amateur + traveller--Nathaniel Wyeth--Anecdotes of his expedition to + the Far West--Disaster of Campbell's party--A union of + bands--The Bad Pass--The rapids--Departure of Fitzpatrick-- + Embarkation of peltries--Wyeth and his bull boat--Adventures + of Captain--Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains--Adventures + in the plain--Traces of Indians--Travelling precautions-- + Dangers of making a smoke--The rendezvous + +ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out +on his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men, +including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River +valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of +mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell's party, +which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived +that it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this +was different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to +the northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream +takes its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian +names, is characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head; +and Agie, river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the +south end of the Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it +falls into the Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains, +but is twice crossed by chains of mountains; the first called the +Littlehorn; the second, the Bighorn. After it has forced its way through +the first chain, it is called the Horn River; after the second chain, +it is called the Bighorn River. Its passage through this last chain +is rough and violent; making repeated falls, and rushing down long and +furious rapids, which threaten destruction to the navigator; though a +hardy trapper is said to have shot down them in a canoe. At the foot of +these rapids, is the head of navigation; where it was the intention of +the parties to construct boats, and embark. + +Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in +full view of the "Bluffs," as they are called, extending from the base +of the Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the +eye a confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and +angular, some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up +in fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no +soil favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all +this isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints +and hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty. + +In this neighborhood, the captain made search for "the great Tar +Spring," one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties +of which, he had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a +toilsome search, he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east +of the Wind River Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the +color and consistency of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect +a quantity of it, to use as an ointment for the galled backs of +their horses, and as a balsam for their own pains and aches. From the +description given of it, it is evidently the bituminous oil, called +petrolium or naphtha, which forms a principal ingredient in the potent +medicine called British Oil. It is found in various parts of Europe and +Asia, in several of the West India islands, and in some places of the +United States. In the state of New York, it is called Seneca Oil, from +being found near the Seneca lake. + +The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in +superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the +trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding +with anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places +emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A +volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of +the tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the +odor derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned +place was first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and +Clarke's exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely +wanderings, and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden +fires, smoking pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading "smell +of brimstone," that it received, and has ever since retained among +trappers, the name of "Colter's Hell!" + +Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain +Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams +entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name +to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most +important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen, +Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for +a fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the +afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on +the opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were +Indians; he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and, +by the long line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of +Campbell, which, having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to +the Horn River. + +The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the +4th of August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn +Mountain. In company with Campbell's convoy was a trapping party of the +Rocky Mountain Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell's +embarkation on the Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses, +and proceed on a trapping campaign. There were, moreover, two chance +companions in the rival camp. One was Captain Stewart, of the British +army, a gentleman of noble connections, who was amusing himself by a +wandering tour in the Far West; in the course of which, he had lived +in hunter's style; accompanying various bands of traders, trappers, and +Indians; and manifesting that relish for the wilderness that belongs to +men of game spirit. + +The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell's camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth; +the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with +whom we parted company in the valley of Pierre's Hole, after the battle +with the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out +from the rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of +trappers. On his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to +the deserted fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a +dismal scene. The fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the +slain; while vultures soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around; +and Indian dogs howled about the place, as if bewailing the death +of their masters. Wyeth travelled for a considerable distance to the +southwest, in company with Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the +former, with eleven men, the remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake +River; kept down the course of that eventful stream; traversed the Blue +Mountains, trapping beaver occasionally by the way, and finally, after +hardships of all kinds, arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver, +on the Columbia, the main factory of the Hudson's Bay Company. + +He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that +company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or +tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue +any longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some +entered into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the +goods he had brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a +word, his expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a +failure. He lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as +strong as ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of +service to him in the further prosecution of his project; collected +all the information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by +merely two men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got +thus far "by hook and by crook," a mode in which a New England man can +make his way all over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties, +and was now bound for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a +company for the salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia. + +The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of +their route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were +reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one +night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this +tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and +confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the +horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head, +and nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses, +leaving the rest of the party to find their way to the main body on +foot. + +The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus +fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great +good fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The +captain, however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his +trappers, who kept profound silence as to their future movements, +intended to hunt the same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal +campaign; which lay to the west of the Horn River, on its tributary +streams. In the course of his march, therefore, he secretly detached +a small party of trappers, to make their way to those hunting grounds, +while he continued on with the main body; appointing a rendezvous, at +the next full moon, about the 28th of August, at a place called the +Medicine Lodge. + +On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where +the river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with +cascades and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks, +and traverse the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically +called the "Bad Pass." Descending the opposite side, they again made for +the river banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below +the rapids where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain +Bonneville detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten +men, to seek and join those whom he had detached while on the route; +appointing for them the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the +28th of August. + +All hands now set to work to construct "bull boats," as they are +technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of +the expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo +skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats. +Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood, +launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down +an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries +teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow +traveller, and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre's Hole, +took passage in his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two +Indians. We shall hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the +course of our wanderings about the Far West. + +The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That +of Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he +embarked all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a +party of thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and +the little squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the +Bighorn. + +The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his +men first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably, +superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in +that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the +peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above +a hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder, +and Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was +desirous of having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures +they met with in that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall +have something to relate hereafter. + +Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign +without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at +Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six +horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain +and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril +for a numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his +difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit. + +In the afternoon of his first day's journey, on drawing near to the +Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the +night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from +its base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very +irregular; sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up +in heavy volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there; +probably, some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do +for so small a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture +within sight of any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his +companions, therefore, avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and, +proceeding with extreme caution, reached the summit of the mountain, +apparently without being discovered. Here they found a deserted +Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced themselves; disposed of every +thing as securely as possible, and passed the night without molestation. +Early the next morning they descended the south side of the mountain +into the great plain extending between it and the Littlehorn range. Here +they soon came upon numerous footprints, and the carcasses of buffaloes; +by which they knew there must be Indians not far off. Captain Bonneville +now began to feel solicitude about the two small parties of trappers +which he had detached, lest the Indians should have come upon them +before they had united their forces. But he felt still more solicitude +about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he could traverse +these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad; and should +he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one. Everything now +depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous to discharge +a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such quick-eared +and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the day they +saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in great +numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they encamped +with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for their +protection. + +For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but +cautiously, across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the +Horn River; encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island; +meeting, repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in +passing through a defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock +their rifles. + +On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution, +and they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the +report. They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with +them to the place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived +safely, in the evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper. + +The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a +fortress of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest +caution. Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no +glare, and a moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance. +In the morning and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises +perpendicularly in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the +tree-tops, and can be discovered from afar. + +In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously +encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had +been expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had +their several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we +will furnish to the reader in the next chapter. + + + + +24. + + Adventures of the party of ten--The--Balaamite mule--A dead + point--The mysterious elks--A night attack--A retreat-- + Travelling under an alarm--A joyful meeting--Adventures of + the other party--A decoy elk--Retreat to an island--A savage + dance of triumph--Arrival at Wind River + +THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These +trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where +the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain, +and having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set +his trap in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his +steed came to a full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to +every blow and kick the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused +to budge an inch. The rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of +some cause for this demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian +fort within gunshot distance, lowering through the twilight. In a +twinkling he wheeled about; his mule now seemed as eager to get on as +himself, and in a few moments brought him, clattering with his traps, +among his comrades. He was jeered at for his alacrity in retreating; +his report was treated as a false alarm; his brother trappers contented +themselves with reconnoitring the fort at a distance, and pronounced +that it was deserted. + +As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on +his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard +stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their +blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with +a long day's march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a +profound sleep. + +The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the +sentinel stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped +as heartily as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to +nod at his post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He +half opened his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about +the lodges, picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight +of elk within the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but +having had his supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to +graze about unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze. + +Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and +tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to +secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking, +and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and +firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded +in driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered +still more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage, +and camp furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The +Indians, in the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up +the most horrible clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or +frightening off the horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked +them briskly and drove them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept +up for an hour, when the Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave +up the contest and retired. They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet, +who, while in search of the Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of +Captain Bonneville on the Popo Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but +had been completely baffled by his vigilance. They had then waylaid the +present detachment, and were actually housed in perfect silence within +their fort, when the mule of the trapper made such a dead point. + +The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility, +mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of +the most insulting kind. + +In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed. +On preparing the morning's meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and +other articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by +the fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel. +As the Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had +intended to travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward +rapidly through the "Bad Pass," nor halted until night; when, supposing +themselves out of the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with +tying up their horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to +sleep, when a dog strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons +tied upon his back; for dogs are made to carry burdens among the +Indians. The sentinel, more knowing than he of the preceding night, +awoke his companions and reported the circumstance. It was evident that +Indians were at hand. All were instantly at work; a strong pen was soon +constructed for the horses, after completing which, they resumed their +slumbers with the composure of men long inured to dangers. + +In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various +suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them. +Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which, +with the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be +that of the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his +march, and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from +various signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the +Indians. They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried +them to the banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its +course, until they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here, +to their great joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in +search, all strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and +anxiety. + +We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers. +These men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville, +had proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river, +trapping beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit +their traps, one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a +distance, and requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started +off for the purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some +savages in ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off +his hide and his horn, started forth an Indian warrior. + +One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the +others fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could +carry off, retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge +among the willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had +fallen, but who had merely been wounded in the neck. + +In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with +all the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among +the spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came +sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached +near by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at +the same moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and +warned of his danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a +moment, bewildered and aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and +made off at full speed, quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians +rattled after him. + +In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed +a circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky +trappers for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they +considered cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their +usual mode of bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of +the willows. A sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden +halt, and laid three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed +himself on an eminence to direct all the movements of his people, +seeing three of his warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They +immediately did so, and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point +of woods, carrying off with them the horses, traps, and the greater part +of the baggage. + +It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered +this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up +after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could +not be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in +a neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made +their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous. + +Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well +as from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in +a neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also, +who visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of +Crows marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore, +on the 1st of September, made his way to the south, across the +Littlehorn Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning +westward, moved slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his +men to trap as he proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present +hunting campaigns to go near the caches on Green River, and as the +trappers were in want of traps to replace those they had lost, Captain +Bonneville undertook to visit the caches, and procure a supply. To +accompany him in this hazardous expedition, which would take him through +the defiles of the Wind River Mountains, and up the Green River valley, +he took but three men; the main party were to continue on trapping up +toward the head of Wind River, near which he was to rejoin them, just +about the place where that stream issues from the mountains. We shall +accompany the captain on his adventurous errand. + + + + +25. + + Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley--Journey + up the Popo Agie--Buffaloes--The staring white bears--The + smok--The warm springs--Attempt to traverse the Wind River + Mountains--The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms-- + Crystal lakes--Ascent of a snowy peak--Sublime prospect--A + panorama "Les dignes de pitie," or wild men of the mountains + +HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville +and his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they +fell upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their +course, nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous +droves of buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of +beef. As the hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the +game, two small white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path, +and, rising upon their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a +whimsically solemn gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the +bears, having apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves +upon all fours, and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon +which the bears turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated +their serio-comic examination. This was repeated several times, until +the hunters, piqued at their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a +discharge of their rifles. The bears made an awkward bound or two, as +if wounded, and then walked off with great gravity, seeming to commune +together, and every now and then turning to take another look at the +hunters. It was well for the latter that the bears were but half grown, +and had not yet acquired the ferocity of their kind. + +The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but +the hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having +secured the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after +dark, when, encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great +fire, roasted buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the +whole of it with keen relish and high glee, and then "turned in" for the +night and slept soundly, like weary and well fed hunters. + +At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river, +passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful +groves of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville +observed a smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the +route he was pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed +the horses in a thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled +cautiously up a height, from which he could overlook the scene of +danger. Here, with a spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding +country, but not a lodge nor fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be +discovered; in short, the smoke which had caused such alarm proved to +be the vapor from several warm, or rather hot springs of considerable +magnitude, pouring forth streams in every direction over a bottom of +white clay. One of the springs was about twenty-five yards in diameter, +and so deep that the water was of a bright green color. + +They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River +Mountains, which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round +their southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they +force their way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The +mountains were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped, +however, that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted, +accordingly, to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the +branches of the Popo Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of +stupendous crags and precipices that barred all progress. Retracing +their steps, and falling back upon the river, they consulted where to +make another attempt. They were too close beneath the mountains to scan +them generally, but they now recollected having noticed, from the plain, +a beautiful slope rising, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and +apparently without any break, until it reached the snowy region. Seeking +this gentle acclivity, they began to ascend it with alacrity, trusting +to find at the top one of those elevated plains which prevail among the +Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with coarse gravel, interspersed +with plates of freestone. They attained the summit with some toil, but +found, instead of a level, or rather undulating plain, that they were +on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from the bottom of which +rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just ascended. Down +into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged path, or +rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second slope. They +gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine, and now +perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a sloping +and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by +frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and +dangerous. + +In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly +and sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and +scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous +and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded. +Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain +stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they +availed themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep, +which, however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or +led to rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they +were obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which +attempt some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the +bottom, and came near being dashed to pieces. + +In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the +elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were +two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of +stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly +refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those +mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander +hundreds of miles through the plains. + +In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted +to repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and +tender herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level +of the plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon +another, and beetling like battlements far above them. While two of +the men remained in the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville, +accompanied by the other men [man], set out to climb a neighboring +height, hoping to gain a commanding prospect, and discern some +practicable route through this stupendous labyrinth. After much toil, he +reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it was only to behold gigantic +peaks rising all around, and towering far into the snowy regions of the +atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be the highest, he crossed a +narrow intervening valley, and began to scale it. He soon found that +he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride of man is never more +obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent was so steep and +rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged to clamber on +hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs. Frequently, +exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they threw +themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their +parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and +hung them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble +over these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool +breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to +their task, they at length attained the summit. + +Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time +astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact, +upon that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world; +and on each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the +two cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it +was confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the +Rocky Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn +valleys; treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming +torrents; while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an +almost immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and +hazy distance, like the expanse of a summer's sea. Whichever way he +looked, he beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty +streams wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy +mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted +like clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed +realized: he had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior, +after death, first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the +happy hunting grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes +of the free and generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while +gazing upon this scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas +and sensations. A long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from +this enthralment of the mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this +vast panorama. A simple enumeration of a few of its features may give +some idea of its collective grandeur and magnificence. + +The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole +Wind River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense +mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with +narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes +and gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty +tributaries to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks, +to the south, and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river, +called the Sweet Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the +rugged regions of the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind +River wandered through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current, +they forced their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost +to view. To the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the +Yellowstone, that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction +were to be seen some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing +to the northwest, past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and +pouring down into the great lava plain; while, almost at the captain's +feet, the Green River, or Colorado of the West, set forth on its +wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of California; at first a mere mountain +torrent, dashing northward over a crag and precipice, in a succession +of cascades, and tumbling into the plain where, expanding into an ample +river, it circled away to the south, and after alternately shining out +and disappearing in the mazes of the vast landscape, was finally lost +in a horizon of mountains. The day was calm and cloudless, and the +atmosphere so pure that objects were discernible at an astonishing +distance. The whole of this immense area was inclosed by an outer range +of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked on the horizon, which +seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth. + +It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with +him with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it +as his opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American +continent; but of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain +that the Rocky Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was +formerly supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest +peak is further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr. +Thompson, surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means +of the barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be +twenty-five thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only +inferior to that of the Himalayas. + +For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with +wonder and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling +about the snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained +the spot where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their +coats, which were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down +the peak, they safely rejoined their companions on the border of the +lake. + +Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these +mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out +hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley. +Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three +savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call +their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled +the faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and +reported what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that +these belonged to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit +the highest and most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie +language, and probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have +peculiarities of their own, which distinguish them from all other +Indians. They are miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of +every convenience to be derived from an intercourse with the whites. +Their weapons are bows and stone-pointed arrows, with which they +hunt the deer, the elk, and the mountain sheep. They are to be found +scattered about the countries of the Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and +Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are always in lonely places, and +the clefts of the rocks. + +Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary +valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried +among the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still +more rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their +dread of strangers. + +As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are +inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare: +should one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he +is sure to be made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a +scalp, and that barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings, +forming a mere link between human nature and the brute, have been looked +down upon with pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have +given them the appellation of "les dignes de pitie," or "the objects +of pity."; They appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the +mountains. + + + + +26. + + A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent--Alpine + scenery--Cascades--Beaver valleys--Beavers at work--Their + architecture--Their modes of felling trees--Mode of trapping + beaver--Contests of skill--A beaver "up to trap"--Arrival at + the Green River caches + +THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had +excited Captain Bonneville's enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would +be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers +of cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he +endeavored to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round +the southern point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself +from the heart of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as +to penetrate it. Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream, +the commencement of some future river, he descended from rock to rock, +and shelf to shelf, between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that +sprang up to the sky. Often he had to cross and recross the rushing +torrent, as it wound foaming and roaring down its broken channel, or +was walled by perpendicular precipices; and imminent was the hazard of +breaking the legs of the horses in the clefts and fissures of slippery +rocks. The whole scenery of this deep ravine was of Alpine wildness +and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers passed beneath cascades which +pitched from such lofty heights that the water fell into the stream like +heavy rain. In other places, torrents came tumbling from crag to crag, +dashing into foam and spray, and making tremendous din and uproar. + +On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond +the steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged +ravine began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and +the stream to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character. +Here, not merely the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it, +was dammed up by communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate +the neighborhood, and make continual swamps. + +During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville +left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to +reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and +caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work +upon the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold +the mode of operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward, +therefore, with the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water +willows without making any noise, until having attained a position +commanding a view of the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the +ground, and watched the solitary workman. In a little while, three +others appeared at the head of the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With +these they proceeded directly to the barrier, which Captain Bonneville +perceived was in need of repair. Having deposited their loads upon the +broken part, they dived into the water, and shortly reappeared at the +surface. Each now brought a quantity of mud, with which he would plaster +the sticks and bushes just deposited. This kind of masonry was continued +for some time, repeated supplies of wood and mud being brought, and +treated in the same manner. This done, the industrious beavers indulged +in a little recreation, chasing each other about the pond, dodging and +whisking about on the surface, or diving to the bottom; and in their +frolic, often slapping their tails on the water with a loud clacking +sound. While they were thus amusing themselves, another of the +fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their sports for +some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed the bank +close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on his +hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young +pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would +tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining +his sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of +a monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down +the tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by +the approach of Captain Bonneville's men, who, feeling anxious at the +protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the +sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived +at once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain +Bonneville regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the +sagacity of the beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said, +they manage to make them fall into the water, and in such a position and +direction as may be most favorable for conveyance to the desired point. +In the present instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it +grew perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the +beaver could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really +capable of exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently +engaged in "belting" the tree, and his first incision had been on the +side nearest to the water. + +Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged +sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has +no other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle +calculation as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he +thinks, has been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees +growing near water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or +stretch their largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space, +the light, and the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks +those trees which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or +pond. He makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them +with his teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in +which their trunks or branches preponderate. + +"I have often," says Captain Bonneville, "seen trees measuring eighteen +inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the +beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently +for the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do +they at times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on +Snake River, a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which +he had made, the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until +he died." + +Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by +the beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter +provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this +business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited. +Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the +branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into +lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to +their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious +of cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts, +will carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw +them into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of +their territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange +beaver to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence +as almost to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the +breeding season, the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a +tour of pleasure, rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself +in every clear and quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing +the banks occasionally to feast upon the tender sprouts of the young +willows. As summer advances, he gives up his bachelor rambles, and +bethinking himself of housekeeping duties, returns home to his mate and +his new progeny, and marshals them all for the foraging expedition in +quest of winter provisions. + +After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal +as a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as +the father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is +environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household. + +Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to +the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he +can detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the +lodge may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can +generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of +its inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the +shore, in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of +the water, and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A +small twig is then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the +"medicine," as the trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ. +This end of the stick rises about four inches above the surface of +the water, the other end is planted between the jaws of the trap. The +beaver, possessing an acute sense of smell, is soon attracted by the +odor of the bait. As he raises his nose toward it, his foot is caught +in the trap. In his fright he throws a somerset into the deep water. The +trap, being fastened to the pole, resists all his efforts to drag it +to the shore; the chain by which it is fastened defies his teeth; he +struggles for a time, and at length sinks to the bottom and is drowned. + +Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is +thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened +by the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he +is entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however, +it costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming, +before he finds his game. + +Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are +trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and +can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the trapper's phrase for +"taking the bait." In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the +bait, and conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of +the household. The beaver now being completely "up to trap," approaches +them cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other +times, he turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and +occasionally even drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the +mud. The trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering +his traps, marches off, admitting that he is not yet "up to beaver." + +On the day following Captain Bonneville's supervision of the industrious +and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying +an account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River +Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend +to the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived +without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous +in Green River valley, on the 17th of September. + +He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods +and equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the +necessary supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all +traces that might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders. + + + + +27. + + Route toward--Wind River--Dangerous neighborhood--Alarms and + precautions--A sham encampment--Apparition of an Indian spy-- + Midnight move--A mountain defile--The Wind River valley-- + Tracking a party--Deserted camps--Symptoms of Crows--Meeting + of comrades--A trapper entrapped--Crow pleasantry--Crow + spies--A decampment--Return to Green River valley--Meeting + with Fitzpatrick's party--Their adventures among the Crows-- + Orthodox Crows + +ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions +set out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had +parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with +that stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River +Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile +which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains, +to the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party, +according to arrangement. + +We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood, +infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous +defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and +surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything +that might give intimation of lurking danger. + +About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill, +they discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction. +One of the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was +concluded, therefore, that there was some party of Indians below, +hunting the buffalo. + +The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the +captain, mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view, +reconnoitred the whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was +to be seen; so, after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey. +Convinced, however, that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced +with the utmost caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines, +and avoiding, as much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground, +that might betray his little party to the watchful eye of an Indian +scout. + +Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering +on the river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see, +scampering in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his +companions remained for a long time watching the various groups of the +animals, as each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in +vain to discover the cause. + +They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green +River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore, +arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and +convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they +again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction. + +It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping +for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville, +therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for +encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently +dark, to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some +secluded spot for their night's lodgings. + +Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made +a large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when +sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting +off huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter's +appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to +attract the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they +trusted to be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place. +While they were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party +suddenly started up and shouted "Indians!" All were instantly on their +feet, with their rifles in their hands; but could see no enemy. The +man, however, declared that he had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously, +along the trail which they had made in coming to the encampment; who, +the moment he was perceived, had thrown himself on the ground, and +disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville instantly to decamp. The +captain, however, took the matter more coolly. The single fact, that the +Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced him that he was not +one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He was, probably, some +scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came in sight of their +fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he had seen to his +companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped for the night, +would keep aloof until very late, when all should be asleep. They would, +then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy approaches, and +place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their attack, at the +usual hour of daylight. + +Such was Captain Bonneville's conclusion; in consequence of which, he +counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from +all alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly, +continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then +trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon, +however, as the night had completely set in, they left their fire +blazing; walked quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their +saddles, made off as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left +the point of danger behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious +taciturnity, and began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they +pictured to themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted +fire, waiting for the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand +disappointment. + +About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure +distance, they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the +enemy should follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a +dense and matted thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of +the mountain, instead of making for the summit, as they had originally +intended. + +A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches +morsels of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when +surrounded by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for +sleep with perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and +cook, it is true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come +to a halt, and have provisions. They comforted themselves, however, +by smoking a tranquil pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning +loose the horses, stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that +whoever should first awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while +were all as sound asleep as though in the midst of a fortress. + +A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for +Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at +a little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or +hear an enemy. + +With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them +to the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the +sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into +their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the +mountain, avoiding the direct route. + +At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course +so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now +made sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were +tracks of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had +recently returned, baffled in their search. + +Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken +before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they +pushed briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they +cautiously concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains. + +Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of +Wind River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed +the rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the +Crow country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of +that restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon +a trail which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old, +however, that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood; +driven off, perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the +prowl. He continued his search with great anxiety, and no little +fatigue; for his horses were jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced +marches and scramblings through rocky defiles. + +On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a +deserted camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned +back; but he could find no signs to indicate why they had done so; +whether they had met with misfortune, or molestation, or in what +direction they had gone. He was now, more than ever, perplexed. + +On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The +feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the +rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About +noon, he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost +their trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a +southerly direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains, +which towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible +speed, in hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another +of their camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day +dawned sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that +must be dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were +traces of Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his +people had passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about +them. Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great +distance, he mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to +overtake them, to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt, +until he should rejoin them. + +In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with +six comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his +accommodation; and on the following day (September 25th), all hands +were once more reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their +meeting was hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and +perplexities. + +The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had +been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they +had been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their +horses had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so +closely beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest +they should be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had +caused such perplexity to Captain Bonneville. + +The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give +repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued +their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was +setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up, +beheld a party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a +considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was +discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells, +they dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their +tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave +himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather +than a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while, +at the expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow +pranks and pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true, +they stripped him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun, +a third his traps, a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his +accoutrements, and even his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then +they generously made him a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and +dismissed him, with many complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When +the trapper returned to the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted +with peals of laughter from his comrades and seemed more mortified by +the style in which he had been dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with +his life. A circumstance which he related to Captain Bonneville, gave +some insight into the cause of this extreme jocularity on the part +of the Crows. They had evidently had a run of luck, and, like winning +gamblers, were in high good humor. Among twenty-six fine horses, and +some mules, which composed their cavalcade, the trapper recognized a +number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick's brigade, when they parted +company on the Bighorn. It was supposed, therefore, that these vagabonds +had been on his trail, and robbed him of part of his cavalry. + +On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain +Bonneville's camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air +imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern, +in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of +the set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band, +they were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his +usual kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the +camp, and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he +caused a strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at +night, stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated +against the latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect +them to be spies, who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his +precautions. At the same time, he assured his guests, that while they +were perfectly welcome to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet, +should any of their tribe venture to approach during the night, they +would certainly be shot; which would be a very unfortunate circumstance, +and much to be deplored. To the latter remark, they fully assented; and +shortly afterward commenced a wild song, or chant, which they kept up +for a long time, and in which they very probably gave their friends, who +might be prowling round the camp, notice that the white men were on the +alert. The night passed away without disturbance. In the morning, the +three Crow guests were very pressing that Captain Bonneville and his +party should accompany them to their camp, which they said was close +by. Instead of accepting their invitation, Captain Bonneville took his +departure with all possible dispatch, eager to be out of the vicinity +of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the diligence of his march, +until, on the second day, he reached the banks of the Sweet Water, +beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall of snow had +obliterated all traces of his course. + +He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point +of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches, +on the 14th of October. + +Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the +defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of +them on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back +their trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they +had discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but +fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions, +and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville +discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than +ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a +formidable band of freebooters. + +He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on +the 25th of October reached Liberge's Ford, a tributary of the Colorado, +where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which +had crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the +water that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they +could not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the +Crow nation. + +Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force +should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of +fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane's Fork, another +tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the +26th of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed +it to arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to +procure information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band +of Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party +of trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of +his fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain +Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap +upon Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with +him, and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not +pass through the Crow country without attracting the attention of its +freebooting hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces, +and came up with them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached +Tongue River. The Crow chief came forward with great appearance +of friendship, and proposed to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp +together. The latter, however, not having any faith in Crows, declined +the invitation, and pitched his camp three miles off. He then rode over +with two or three men, to visit the Crow chief, by whom he was received +with great apparent cordiality. In the meantime, however, a party of +young braves, who considered them absolved by his distrust from all +scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and dashed into his +encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the absence of +Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too numerous +and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made booty +of every thing--carrying off all the horses. On their way back they met +Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by rifling +and nearly stripping him. + +A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the +triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of, +we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain +to return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles +and a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all +speed to abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh +disasters. + +After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows +pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out +of their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation +of the Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about +him on his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and +mules. It was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely +trapper on the Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in +exchange for his rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these +anecdotes, we shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and +its vagabond chivalry. + + + + +28. + + A region of natural curiosities--The plain of white clay-- + Hot springs--The Beer Spring--Departure to seek the free + trappers--Plain of Portneuf--Lava--Chasms and gullies-- + Bannack Indians--Their hunt of the buffalo--Hunter's feast-- + Trencher heroes--Bullying of an absent foe--The damp + comrade--The Indian spy--Meeting with Hodgkiss--His + adventures--Poordevil Indians--Triumph of the Bannacks-- + Blackfeet policy in war + +CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear +River, which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake, +describes the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters +of this river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never +been visited by the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being +barricadoed [sic] by fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices. + +Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November, +at the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three +miles in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and +connected with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the +Little Lake, to distinguish it from the great one of salt water. + +On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the +neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area +of about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or +fuller's earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian +marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful +at all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in +autumn, when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the +withered herbage. Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like +a mirror, set in the brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered +numerous springs of various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of +scalding heat, boils furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of +two or three feet. In another place, there is an aperture in the earth, +from which rushes a column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The +ground for some distance around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary +trapper, as he hears the tramp of his horse giving the sound of a +muffled drum. He pictures to himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of +hidden fires, and gazes round him with awe and uneasiness. + +The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer +Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn +aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with +as much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert. +Captain Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men +drank it with avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him +to possess any medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects. +The Indians, however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the +white men from doing so. + +We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as +containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the +properties of the Ballston water. + +The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the +party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the +command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River. +His intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at +present travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the +winter. Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave +of his band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by +three men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain +of the Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an +unfortunate Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country +through which he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and +conflagrations in the olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered +about in every direction; the crags and cliffs had apparently been under +the action of fire; the rocks in some places seemed to have been in +a state of fusion; the plain was rent and split with deep chasms and +gullies, some of which were partly filled with lava. + +They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of +horsemen, galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and +made full speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves +among the trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came +forward alone. He reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they +were dismounting and about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all +uneasiness. It was a party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to +the whites, and they proposed, through their envoy, that both parties +should encamp together, and hunt the buffalo, of which they had +discovered several large herds hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully +assented to their proposition, being curious to see their manner of +hunting. + +Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and +prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill +near the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The "runners," then, +as they are called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and +arrows, moved slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much +as possible out of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper +distance, a signal was given, and they all opened at once like a pack +of hounds, with a full chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the +herds, and launching their arrows to the right and left. The plain +seemed absolutely to shake under the tramp of the buffalo, as they +scoured off. The cows in headlong panic, the bulls furious with rage, +uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning with a desperate rush upon +their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the spirit, grace, and dexterity, +with which the Indians managed their horses; wheeling and coursing among +the affrighted herd, and launching their arrows with unerring aim. In +the midst of the apparent confusion, they selected their victims with +perfect judgment, generally aiming at the fattest of the cows, the flesh +of the bull being nearly worthless, at this season of the year. In a few +minutes, each of the hunters had crippled three or four cows. A single +shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the animal, once maimed, was +left to be completely dispatched at the end of the chase. Frequently, a +cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In one instance, Captain +Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely through the body of +a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The bulls, however, are +not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the hunter several +arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and chasing them +furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still sticking in +their flesh. + +The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to +dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the +carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the +choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters' +feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified, +by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor. + +Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed +to be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they +crammed themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the +supper at an end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their +mighty deeds, and the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet. +Warming with the theme, and inflating themselves with their own +eulogies, these magnanimous heroes of the trencher would start up, +advance a short distance beyond the light of the fire, and apostrophize +most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as though they had been within +hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting, and slapping their +breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would vociferate all their +exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had drenched their towns in +tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had inflicted, the warriors +they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in triumph. Then, having +said everything that could stir a man's spleen or pique his valor, they +would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the Bannacks were few +in number, to come and take their revenge--receiving no reply to +this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of sneers and +insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons, that +dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and +rhodomontade in which the "red men" are prone to indulge in their +vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are +vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and +to sound their own trumpet. + +Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack +braves gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their +ruffled feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a +single guard over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at +their word, but few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any +further boasting. + +On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of +buffalo meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing, +were in fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of +almost everything that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain +concluded, the Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated, +they said, at the mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his +companions shaped their course toward Snake River. + +Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous, +but not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the +horses was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from +the saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were +extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely +drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While +they were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived +an Indian scout cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a +neighboring hill. The moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared +behind the hill. From his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville +suspected him to be a scout from the Blackfeet camp, and that he had +gone to report what he had seen to his companions. It would not do +to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the kindling of the fire was +abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in dripping condition, and the +little band pushed forward directly into the plain, going at a smart +pace, until they had gained a considerable distance from the place of +supposed danger. Here encamping for the night, in the midst of abundance +of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for their horses, they +kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp comrade, and then +proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps and ribs, and +other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a hearty +repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they +stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry +canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and +well-fed mountaineers. + +They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident +worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the +party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie, +and deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to +discover by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that +the trappers had left them; at length, after much wandering and +investigating, they came upon the regular trail of the hunting party, +which led into the mountains, and following it up briskly, came about +two o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th, upon the encampment of +Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, in the bosom of a mountain +valley. + +It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters +of themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain +Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July, +preferring to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River, +where they expected to find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous +neighborhood. Their hunt had not been very successful. They had +penetrated the great range of mountains among which some of the upper +branches of Salmon River take their rise, but had become so entangled +among immense and almost impassable barricades of fallen pines, and so +impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great part of their season had +been wasted among these mountains. At one time, they had made their way +through them, and reached the Boisee River; but meeting with a band of +Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended hostilities, they had again +taken shelter among the mountains, where they were found by Captain +Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment, the captain had the +good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers of the mountains, +emphatically called "les dignes de pitie," or Poordevil Indians. These, +however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had with them +a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep. These, +Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and sent +them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy to +all their pitiful tribe. + +Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain +Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out +to rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might +all go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered +many heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to +impede his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party, +encamped at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt +with the Bannacks. + +That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were +just then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever, +celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their +braves being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet +moving, as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks +immediately posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through +which the enemy must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst +of it, attacked them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden +panic, threw off their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their +warriors dead on the spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils; +but their greatest prize was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they +bore off in triumph to their village, where it had ever since been an +object of the greatest exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated +upon a pole in the centre of the village, where the warriors had +celebrated the scalp dance round it, with war feasts, war songs, and +warlike harangues. It had then been given up to the women and boys; who +had paraded it up and down the village with shouts and chants and antic +dances; occasionally saluting it with all kinds of taunts, invectives, +and revilings. + +The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the +character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed, +their conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of +inconsistencies; at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless +of danger; at another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand +these apparent incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare. +A war party, however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight, +bring back a cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over +the glory of their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce +and reckless in general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and +the chiefs are checked in their boldest undertakings by the fear of +sacrificing their warriors. + +This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages, +says Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades, +though they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious +victory, will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning +home with dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and +wait until the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to +mingle again with their people. + + + + +29. + + Winter camp at the Portneuf--Fine springs--The Bannack + Indians--Their honesty--Captain--Bonneville prepares for an + expedition--Christmas--The American--Falls--Wild scenery-- + Fishing Falls--Snake Indians--Scenery on the Bruneau--View + of volcanic country from a mountain--Powder River-- + Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers--Their character, habits, + habitations, dogs--Vanity at its last shift + +IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville +had drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid +all annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however, +he had been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the +flat land, where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing +better for his horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the +contrary, were encamped among fine springs of water, where there was +grass in abundance. Some of these springs gush out of the earth in +sufficient quantity to turn a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear +as crystal, and full of trout of a large size, which may be seen darting +about the transparent water. + +Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in +large quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the +continued coldness of the weather prevented any thaw. + +By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and +the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good +will. A few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their +friends; nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and +good faith of their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and +the want of fodder obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam +in quest of sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the +Bannacks, they were immediately brought back. It must be confessed, +however, that if the stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in +vigorous plight and good condition, though he was equally sure to be +returned by the honest Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of +several days, and in a very gaunt and jaded state; and always with the +remark that they had found him a long way off. The uncharitable were apt +to surmise that he had, in the interim, been well used up in a +buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to Indian morality in the matter of +horseflesh, considered it a singular evidence of honesty that he should +be brought back at all. + +Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that +his people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as +they were valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter +unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition +of great extent and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson's +Bay establishments on the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself +acquainted with the country and the Indian tribes; it being one part of +his scheme to establish a trading post somewhere on the lower part of +the river, so as to participate in the trade lost to the United States +by the capture of Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him +through the Snake River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the +scenes of so much hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their +Astorian bands, who first explored it, and he would have to pass through +it in the same frightful season, the depth of winter. + +The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the +adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his +journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form, +and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He +proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter +encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed, +he mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three +comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their +Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, +after which they resumed their journey. + +They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow +had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed +and frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route +lay to the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were +several days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the +river, for a considerable distance, both above and below the falls, +have a volcanic character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon +another; the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling +through narrow channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges +of basaltic columns. + +Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable +stream, called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four +miles wide, where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and +dryness of the climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream +there is a small mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite, +in small blocks, is likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white +sandstone. From this river, the travellers had a prospect of the snowy +heights of the Salmon River Mountains to the north; the nearest, at +least fifty miles distant. + +In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept +several miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary +streams; though he often found the open country so encumbered by +volcanic rocks, as to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he +approached Snake River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with +steep, perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days' travel +across a level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him +with astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the +river was walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty +feet high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and +fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and +whirling current. Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade +above forty feet in height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume +of spray that hung in the air like a silver mist. These are called +by some the Fishing Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense +quantities. They cannot get by these falls. + +After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise, +descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in +the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the +only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream. + +The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their +travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were +foot tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their +progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region; +a timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life. +Their dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed +of strips of rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their +shoulders, in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their +weapons were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which +abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and +constructed of branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to +be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small +inclosures of wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them +a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of these tenements were +occasionally grouped together in some wild and striking situation, and +had a picturesque effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number +to form a small hamlet. From these people, Captain Bonneville's party +frequently purchased salmon, dried in an admirable manner, as were +likewise the roes. This seemed to be their prime article of food; but +they were extremely anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange. + +The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long +inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were +enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the +river. + +Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery +of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character. +The rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small +streams come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines: +one of a considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within +twenty-five feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal +line for about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to +the rocky bank of the river. + +In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is +upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water. +Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other +times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild +and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of +plashing waters. + +Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness +and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is +particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a +valley, extending upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it +on a sudden, in traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw +a stone across from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand +feet deep: so that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. +Basaltic rocks rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get +from the plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The +current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of +this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in +a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor. + +We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains +and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before +us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this +summit, the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops +of the hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and +appear to have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys +to be formed by the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the +hills. Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and +brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them. All +these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of +the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either absorbed by their +thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the lava, or swallowed up in +gulfs and chasms. + +On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River; +much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He +struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he +found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river, +and in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance +in considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity +respecting the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed +to the bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the +strangers, and watching every movement. These are of that branch of +the great Snake tribe called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their +subsisting, in a great measure, on the roots of the earth; though they +likewise take fish in great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They +are, in general, very poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life, +and extremely indolent: but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in +many respects, from the other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; +who possess horses, are more roving and adventurous, and hunt the +buffalo. + +On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth +of Powder River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these +Diggers, as they are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The +women and children kept at a distance, perched among the rocks and +cliffs; their eager curiosity being somewhat dashed with fear. From +their elevated posts, they scrutinized the strangers with the most +intense earnestness; regarding them with almost as much awe as if they +had been beings of a supernatural order. + +The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned +Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity. +Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands +on underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive +neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before +they encamped for the night. + +The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very +little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The +plains were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were, +about the same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they +resembled the isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky +Mountains; especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas. + +The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake +River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It +should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the +Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending +on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by +unbroken ridges of mountains. + +The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder +River, though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a +lesson, however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which +they subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings. +They frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted +from the bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying +it always lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would +gather together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an +instant produce a cheering blaze. + +Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these +Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. "They +live," says he, "without any further protection from the inclemency +of the season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high, +composed of sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape +of a half moon." Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a +large suite of half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well +as in civilized life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary. + +These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs +of cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of +the neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel +kind of chase they acquitted themselves with some credit. + +Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping +the antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which +this is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared, +says Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into +the thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities, +construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a +hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game. +This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait +patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this +spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women +give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them +enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round +the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way +the hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a +continued pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor +antelopes, in the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men +enter and dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered +the inclosure. The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an +animal so fleet and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life, +should range round and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to +overleap the low barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to +be the fact; and such their only mode of hunting the antelope. + +Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their +habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the +Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture +good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found +in their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of +basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid +of a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on +which they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities +of seed, of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the +plants into wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected +is winnowed and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of +meal or flour; which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable +paste or gruel. + +Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay +up a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they +were ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in +Indian life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife, +or a fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and +starvation; and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers +threw away after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick +them with the greatest avidity. + +The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these +Root Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn +condition. "They were destitute," says he, "of the necessary covering +to protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most +unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the +use of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a +thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead." + +What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity! +Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to +arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a +mirror. It was a "great medicine," in their eyes. The sight of one was +sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and +delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest +fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this +simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall +close our remarks on the Root Diggers. + + + + +30. + + Temperature of the climate--Root Diggers on horseback--An + Indian guide--Mountain prospects--The Grand Rond-- + Difficulties on Snake River--A scramble over the Blue + Mountains--Sufferings from hunger--Prospect of the Immahah + Valley--The exhausted traveller + +THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much +milder than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper +plains, however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are +subject in winter to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty +"sierras," crowned with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and +streaks of intense cold This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and +his companions in their progress westward. At the time when they left +the Bannacks Snake River was frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice +became broken and floating; it gradually disappeared, and the weather +became warm and pleasant, as they approached a tributary stream called +the Little Wyer; and the soil, which was generally of a watery clay, +with occasional intervals of sand, was soft to the tread of the horses. +After a time, however, the mountains approached and flanked the +river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and the current was once more +icebound. + +Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently +rising in the world, for they had "horse to ride and weapon to wear," +and were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that +Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee +River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided +as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these +they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits +[sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that +tribe their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their +manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings; +for Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their +hands, and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable +custom. From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish, +and an excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had +become too weak for the journey. + +The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it +is true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on +merrily, considering themselves well provided for the journey, which +could not be of much longer duration. + +They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which +flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives +that the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised +them to keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the +snow. Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the +river, and to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as +had been predicted, so that their horses once more had the benefit of +tolerable pasturage. Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging +cheerily in the advance. He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer +and a beaver; but at night found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted +the occupant, upon which, with the addition of a fish given him by the +travellers, he made a hearty supper, and retired to rest, filled with +good cheer and good humor. + +The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the +river, leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The +river was sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The +Digger kept on ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river +in pursuit of game, until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he +stole off with him, without the ceremony of leave-taking. + +Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some +Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different +from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce +language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These +Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small +quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides. + +Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which +they ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was +grand but disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks +of Immahah, rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they +stood: on the other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the +river, dashing along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices, +until lost in a distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage +landscape. + +They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious +eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to +discover some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them +to give up the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night. +Moving briskly forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of +deep snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers +as the "Grand Rond," which they found entirely free from snow. + +This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and +five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace, +or Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in +mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when +the elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by +the snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come +to it in the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces +immense quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is +tinted by its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a +cloud. + +After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning +scaled the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route +than that upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much +reconnoitring, determined to make their way once more to the river, and +to travel upon the ice when the banks should prove impassable. + +On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake +River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice. +A narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of +bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time, +they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length +came to where the river forced its way into the heart of the +mountains, winding between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose +perpendicularly from the water's edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy +grandeur. Here difficulties of all kinds beset their path. The snow was +from two to three feet deep, but soft and yielding, so that the horses +had no foothold, but kept plunging forward, straining themselves by +perpetual efforts. Sometimes the crags and promontories forced them upon +the narrow riband of ice that bordered the shore; sometimes they had to +scramble over vast masses of rock which had tumbled from the impending +precipices; sometimes they had to cross the stream upon the hazardous +bridges of ice and snow, sinking to the knee at every step; sometimes +they had to scale slippery acclivities, and to pass along narrow +cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a shouldering wall of rock on one +side, a yawning precipice on the other, where a single false step would +have been fatal. In a lower and less dangerous pass, two of their horses +actually fell into the river; one was saved with much difficulty, but +the boldness of the shore prevented their rescuing the other, and he was +swept away by the rapid current. + +In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and +dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to +a mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further +progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to +cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit, +found their path closed by insurmountable barriers. + +Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged +mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it. +They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep; +and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing, +to aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as +the poor animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy +declivities. Thus, after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant +toil, amidst the wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to +reach the camping ground, from which they had started in the morning, +and for the first time in the course of their rugged and perilous +expedition, felt their hearts quailing under their multiplied hardships. + +A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night's sleep, put +them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as +to their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked +a small ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was +determined to scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which +must lie beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained. +To kill their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of +the hides, and, in these, commit themselves to the stream--a measure +hazardous in the extreme. + +A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep +and cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling +it was by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed +a succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they +wrought their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag +course, climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after +them; which scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then +dislodging some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would +roll down the mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It +was some time after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the +summit of the mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds, +which swept this naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley +beneath, so that the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the +dry grass which remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the +extreme, were fain to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their +journey was likely to be prolonged much beyond the anticipated term. + +In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at +a great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the +mountain. It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height, +running parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to +lofty peaks, but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines. +This, in fact, was a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the +first adventurers to Astoria experienced such hardships. + +We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this +tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed +themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had +they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only +to the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend +the southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow, +so as to render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and +horses continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow +lay in such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down +which the horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was +impeded by tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in +every direction. + +In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out. +For three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could +scarcely drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about +to give out from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him. +Husbanding this miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three +days subsisted upon the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the +meat, it was packed and preserved as long as they could do without it, +not knowing how long they might remain bewildered in these desolate +regions. + +One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and +to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime, +the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the +scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately +below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling; +that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them +in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it +without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the +mountain ridge to the left. + +Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps; +and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of +the severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they +toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through +the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit, +where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side, +they were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and +ravines. + +Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost +ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as +the sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came +to the brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the +Immahah stretched out in smiling verdure below them. + +The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor, +they forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain, +dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them +to slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they +reached the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to +sprout, and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and +repose, heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which +they had just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian +trails along the margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them +reason to believe that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces +in the neighborhood, as it was within the accustomed range of that +pacific and hospitable tribe. + +The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and +they continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their +steeds would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the +rest, threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further. +It was in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and +his replies only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions, +therefore, encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched +about for roots with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then +made a starveling repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past +dangers and troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all +were now at an end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the +morrow would bring them into plentiful quarters. + + + + +31. + + Progress in the valley--An Indian cavalier--The captain + falls into a lethargy--A Nez-Perce patriarch--Hospitable + treatment--The bald head--Bargaining--Value of an old plaid + cloak--The family horse--The cost of an Indian present + +A TRANQUIL NIGHT'S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down +traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set +forward on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within +reach of succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that +they advanced but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they +should almost have lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th +of February) fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst +of winter, exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for +the last twenty days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate +labyrinths of the snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy +precipices, and nearly starved with cold and hunger. + +All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without +seeing a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about +noon, they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly +toward them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed, +came to a halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great +earnestness, seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made +signs of peace, and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him +to approach. He remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having +satisfied himself that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them. +He was a fine, haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted +on a high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was +evident that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe. +His whole deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt, +perhaps, his temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit +of his steed, to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their +half-starved horses. Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave +them his hand, and, in the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp, +which was only a few miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and +plenty of horses, and would cheerfully share his good things with them. + +His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a +moment, to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then, +wheeling round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon +out of sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a +snail's pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after +the other. Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and +singular change of feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his +party, and of providing against every emergency, had kept his mind upon +the stretch, and his whole system braced and excited. In no one instance +had he flagged in spirit, or felt disposed to succumb. Now, however, +that all danger was over, and the march of a few miles would bring them +to repose and abundance, his energies suddenly deserted him; and every +faculty, mental and physical, was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded +two miles from the point where he had had the interview with the Nez +Perce chief, when he threw himself upon the earth, without the power +or will to move a muscle, or exert a thought, and sank almost instantly +into a profound and dreamless sleep. His companions again came to a +halt, and encamped beside him, and there they passed the night. + +The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy +sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress. +They had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce +tribe came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them +to their camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into +their languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of +the Nez Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together, +under the patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He +received them with the hospitality of the golden age, and with something +of the same kind of fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them +welcome, the only repast he set before them consisted of roots. They +could have wished for something more hearty and substantial; but, for +want of better, made a voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast +being over, the best pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a +most welcome luxury, having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days +before, among the mountains. + +While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to +the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to +revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than +their masters. + +Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet, +inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper +Nez Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of +expression, and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he +was well known among them, by report, at least, from the constant +interchange of visits and messages between the two branches of the +tribe. They at first addressed him by his name; giving him his title of +captain, with a French accent: but they soon gave him a title of their +own; which, as usual with Indian titles, had a peculiar signification. +In the case of the captain, it had somewhat of a whimsical origin. + +As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would +occasionally take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation +in the surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their +recumbent posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual +exclamation of astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a +phenomenon very surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know +whether he had been scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity +from that belligerent infliction. In a little while, he became +known among them by an Indian name, signifying "the bald chief." "A +sobriquet," observes the captain, "for which I can find no parallel in +history since the days of 'Charles the Bald.'" + +Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled +with tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In +approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond +anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still +haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen +appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight's fasting, at +length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged +some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however, +were slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited; +but were ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced +excellent food. At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of +attaining the much-coveted gratification. + +He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling +companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the +snows and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to +tarnish its primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the +admiration, and inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws, +to an extravagant degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville, +to convert this rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired. +There was a momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and +projected indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was +made, he says, with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and +sentiment might have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was +cut into numerous strips. "Of these," continues he, "with the newly +developed talent of a man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a +la Turque, and fanciful head-gears of divers conformations. These, +judiciously distributed among such of the womenkind as seemed of most +consequence and interest in the eyes of the patres conscripti, brought +us, in a little while, abundance of dried salmon and deers' hearts; on +which we made a sumptuous supper. Another, and a more satisfactory +smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet slumbers answering the peaceful +invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in that delicious rest, which is +only won by toil and travail." As to Captain Bonneville, he slept in +the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had evidently conceived a most +disinterested affection for him; as was shown on the following morning. +The travellers, invigorated by a good supper, and "fresh from the bath +of repose," were about to resume their journey, when this affectionate +old chief took the captain aside, to let him know how much he loved him. +As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give him a fine horse, +which would go further than words, and put his good will beyond all +question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a beautiful young +horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting, to the place. +Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of friendship; but +his experience in what is proverbially called "Indian giving," made him +aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own part, to prove that +his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed a handsome +rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent heart was +evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign of +amity. + +Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship, +the captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when +the affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to +him a whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have +passed for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. "This," said he, "is +my wife; she is a good wife--I love her very much.--She loves the +horse--she loves him a great deal--she will cry very much at losing +him.--I do not know how I shall comfort her--and that makes my heart +very sore." + +What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old +squaw, and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain +lecture? He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the +patriarch's better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to +put personal vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity +extinct? The moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering +and whining of the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed +the precious baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of +Endor, went off with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she +had been a perfect Semiramis. + +The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was +in the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward, +and presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky +look. "This," said the venerable chief, "is my son: he is very good; a +great horseman--he always took care of this very fine horse--he brought +him up from a colt, and made him what he is.--He is very fond of this +fine horse--he loves him like a brother--his heart will be very heavy +when this fine horse leaves the camp." + +What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable +pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse? +He bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender +stores. No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young +hopeful, than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing +in his hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her +ear-bobs. + +The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the +affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and, +while he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the +rifle in the other. "This rifle," said he, "shall be my great medicine. +I will hug it to my heart--I will always love it, for the sake of my +good friend, the bald-headed chief.--But a rifle, by itself, is dumb--I +cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it +out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the +meat home to my hungry family, I would say--This was killed by the +rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine +horse." + +There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished +the coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs +to his very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to +get out of all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the +affectionate old patriarch and his insinuating family. + + + + +32. + + Nez-Perce camp--A chief with a hard name--The Big Hearts of + the East--Hospitable treatment--The Indian guides-- + Mysterious councils--The loquacious chief--Indian tomb-- + Grand Indian reception--An Indian feast--Town-criers-- + Honesty of the Nez-Perces--The captain's attempt at + healing. + +FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three +companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay +over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On +the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as +they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals, +they descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small +encampment of Nez Perces. + +The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men +approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to +encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief +named Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict +oftener than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named +chieftain welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same +hospitality and loving kindness that he had experienced from his +predecessor. He told the captain he had often heard of the Americans +and their generous deeds, and that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez +Perces) had always spoken of them as the Big-hearted whites of the East, +the very good friends of the Nez Perces. + +Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of +this magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be +involved in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened, +therefore, to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how +little there was to be expected from him. + +He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the +Upper Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their +arms around them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had +received such good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins, +the Lower Nez Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as +friends and brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded +a mule with presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez +Perces; but, unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the +snowy mountains; and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into +Snake River, and been swept away by the rapid current. That instead, +therefore, of arriving among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light +hearts and full hands, they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and +instead of making them presents, must depend upon them even for food. +"But," concluded he, "we are going to the white men's fort on the +Wallah-Wallah, and will soon return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce +friends like the true Big Hearts of the East." + +Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any +effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings +which, according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce +tribe, he certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on +learning the destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he +urged the captain to remain with them until the following day, when he +would accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all +his people. In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for +travelling provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not +as an article of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were +hungry and in need of food. + +Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement. +The carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain +insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the +chieftain's family. + +At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed +their journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide. +Their route was over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were +slippery with ice and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded, +that they could scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their +foothold on the frozen declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey, +the old chief and the guide were unremitting in their good offices, +and continually on the alert to select the best roads, and assist them +through all difficulties. Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be +dependent on their Indian friends for almost every thing, for they had +lost their tobacco and pipes, those great comforts of the trapper, and +had but a few charges of powder left, which it was necessary to husband +for the purpose of lighting their fires. + +In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations +with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some +mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville +could not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual +sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from +which the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he +attached a little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he +suffered him to spin out his petty plans unmolested. + +In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy +counsellor, the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the +guide mounted his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the +chief resumed his seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a +pleasing but mystic reverie. + +The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the +Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the +guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference +was held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more +inflated than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh +trails, and various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there +must be a considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as +his worthy companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as +it appeared to be in some way connected with his secret operations, +he asked no questions, but patiently awaited the development of his +mystery. + +As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were +bathing in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a +halt, and had a long conversation with them, in the course of which he +repeated to them the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related +to him. In fact, he seems to have been a very sociable, communicative +old man; by no means afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged +upon the Indians. On the contrary, he was fond of long talks and long +smokings, and evidently was proud of his new friend, the bald-headed +chief, and took a pleasure in sounding his praises, and setting forth +the power and glory of the Big Hearts of the East. + +Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing +friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward +with the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way, +however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very +different occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the +river stood an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with +some emotion. "The big heart and the strong arm," said he, "lie buried +beneath that sod." + +It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of +the tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war +party of Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy +bore off his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in +this lonely place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials +characteristic of their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered +round the grave and mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief; +but the women and children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations. +"For three days," said the old man, "we performed the solemn dances for +the dead, and prayed the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy +in the land of brave warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave +fifteen of our best and strongest horses, to serve him when he should +arrive at the happy hunting grounds; and having done all this, we +returned sorrowfully to our homes." + +While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up, +and, presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily +out of sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his +self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode. +Turning to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and +informed him, that behind it was a village governed by a little chief, +whom he had notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a +party of the Big Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive +them in becoming style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to +salute them with a discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of +gunpowder that they might return the salute in a manner correspondent to +his dignity. + +They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the +whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the +most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the +whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank +were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated; +behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and +children. + +Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of +firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted. +The chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective +characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each +filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor. +Those in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all +had given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief, +according to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his +people advanced whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence +of the white men, he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they +would submissively walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an +inquiring look, he would observe, "he was a bad man," or something quite +as concise, and there was an end of the matter. + +Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable +lodge was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept +constantly supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and +all their effects were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were +unsaddled, and turned loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon +them. + +All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or +council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet, +was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that +had tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld +not merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk, +and the choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say +how vigorously they acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how +unnecessary it was for their hosts to practice the usual cramming +principle of Indian hospitality. + +When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the +same curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information +concerning the United States, of which they knew little but what they +derived through their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is +almost exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson's Bay Company. +Captain Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation, +and the importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was +ably seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name, +who did all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East. + +The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and +evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus +set forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after +sentence was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole +village. + +This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the +Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage +where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report +the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this +kind, viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to +be contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey +accurate information to the public mind than those circulated through +the press. The office of crier is generally filled by some old man, +who is good for little else. A village has generally several of these +walking newspapers, as they are termed by the whites, who go about +proclaiming the news of the day, giving notice of public councils, +expeditions, dances, feasts, and other ceremonials, and advertising +anything lost. While Captain Bonneville remained among the Nez Perces, +if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of similar value, was lost or +mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the lodge of the chief, and +proclamation was made by one of their criers, for the owner to come and +claim his property. + +How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering +tribes of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this +tribe of Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually +been among them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable, +exorbitant in their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain +Bonneville, on the contrary, who resided much among them, and had +repeated opportunities of ascertaining their real character, invariably +speaks of them as kind and hospitable, scrupulously honest, and +remarkable, above all other Indians that he had met with, for a strong +feeling of religion. In fact, so enthusiastic is he in their praise, +that he pronounces them, all ignorant and barbarous as they are by their +condition, one of the purest hearted people on the face of the earth. + +Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among +the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and +gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been +long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort +of the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation +thus accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As +he had arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something +of a physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge +in the healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently +successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that +report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that +effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at +relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg +in the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic +affection. This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the +old woman with a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to +relieve her, at the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his +return; with which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he +presented the captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the +journey: a medical fee which was thankfully accepted. + +While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an +owner for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big +Wyer. The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen +from him some time previous, by some unknown thief. "However," said the +considerate savage, "you got him in fair trade--you are more in want +of horses than I am: keep him; he is yours--he is a good horse; use him +well." + +Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity, +which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain +Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more +impressed with the general excellence of their character. + + + + +33. + + Scenery of the Way-lee-way--A substitute for tobacco-- + Sublime scenery of--Snake River--The garrulous old chief and + his cousin--A Nez-Perce meeting--A stolen skin--The + scapegoat dog--Mysterious conferences--The little chief--His + hospitality--The captain's account of the United States--His + healing skill + +IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the +same Nez Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important +in choosing the routes and resting places. He also continued to be +accompanied by the worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed +bent upon doing the honors of the country, and introducing him to every +branch of his tribe. The Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain +Bonneville and his companions were now travelling, is a considerable +stream winding through a succession of bold and beautiful scenes. +Sometimes the landscape towered into bold and mountainous heights that +partook of sublimity; at other times, it stretched along the water side +in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful undulating valleys. + +Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez +Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who, +generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures; +a curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies +of the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be +spokesman of the party. + +The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this +excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his +stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale +his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his +pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus +manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long +colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud. + +If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its +mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more +reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At +times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like +gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning +chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes +the river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it +roared along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks +were piled in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another +place, they were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with +green-award. The whole of this wild and varied scenery was dominated +by immense mountains rearing their distant peaks into the clouds. "The +grandeur and originality of the views, presented on every side," says +Captain Bonneville, "beggar both the pencil and the pen. Nothing we had +ever gazed upon in any other region could for a moment compare in wild +majesty and impressive sternness, with the series of scenes which +here at every turn astonished our senses, and filled us with awe and +delight." + +Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the +accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the +memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake +River must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery +of all the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky +Mountains, to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward +of six hundred miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a +volcanic region, amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the +traces of ancient fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava +and sandy deserts, penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken +into romantic and often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal +snows; and at other times, careers through green and smiling meadows, +and wide landscapes of Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity, +however, appear to be its prevailing characteristics. + +Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a +considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief +halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn +their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from +a group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was +quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a +light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot +across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and +frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn. +The old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented +Captain Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to +say, was no less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The +latter evinced the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers, +whence they came whither they were going, the object of their journey, +and the adventures they had experienced. All these, of course, were +ample and eloquently set forth by the communicative old chief. To all +his grandiloquent account of the bald-headed chief and his countrymen, +the Big Hearts of the East, his cousin listened with great attention, +and replied in the customary style of Indian welcome. He then desired +the party to await his return, and, springing into his canoe, darted +across the river. In a little while he returned, bringing a most +welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of provisions for the road, +declaring his intention of accompanying the party. Having no horse, he +mounted behind one of the men, observing that he should procure a steed +for himself on the following day. + +They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many +miles beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom +Captain Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence +among the Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In +this neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them +with a profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That +night they put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by +several warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old +chief and his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white +men. The heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at +thus being surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with +more spirit and vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect +harmony and good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the +visitors took their leave and recrossed the river. + +After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez +Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to +throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social +and harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain's men, +who happened to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of +collecting curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the +eyes of men conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among +the visitors from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other, +examined it with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great +medicine. + +In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off, +the precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it +was nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been +purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river. + +The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency +of their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over +and answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call +with all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea +of their being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted +nation. All were at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the +invaluable skin, when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the +water fell upon an unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He +was a gallows-looking dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who, +take them in the mass, are little better than a generation of vipers. Be +that as it may, he was instantly accused of having devoured the skin +in question. A dog accused is generally a dog condemned; and a dog +condemned is generally a dog executed. So was it in the present +instance. The unfortunate cur was arraigned; his thievish looks +substantiated his guilt, and he was condemned by his judges from across +the river to be hanged. In vain the Indians of the hut, with whom he was +a great favorite, interceded in his behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville +and his comrades petitioned that his life might be spared. His judges +were inexorable. He was doubly guilty: first, in having robbed their +good friends, the Big Hearts of the East; secondly, in having brought +a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe. He was, accordingly, +swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death more certain. +The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post mortem +examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his +delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a +shadow of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all +present, during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the +intestines rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned, +not a particle of the skin was to be found--the dog had been unjustly +executed! + +A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from +across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them +to the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the +utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their +lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin +in a dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was +entirely out of the question. + +The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the +captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits +of the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time +completely dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just +occurred. He rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give +way to a burst of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head +and a toss of the hand toward the opposite shore--"bad men, very bad +men across the river"; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy +cousin, Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of +acquiescence, equivalent to an amen. + +After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and +he fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin, +which ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to +his horse, dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were +drawing near to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by +an appellation of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as +the great chief. The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their +approach; a herald appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to +enable them to respond to the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their +approach to the village, similar to that which had occurred at the +village of the little chief. The whole population appeared in the +field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with the customary regard to rank and +dignity. Then came on the firing of salutes, and the shaking of hands, +in which last ceremonial every individual, man, woman, and child, +participated; for the Indians have an idea that it is as indispensable +an overture of friendship among the whites as smoking of the pipe is +among the red men. The travellers were next ushered to the banquet, +where all the choicest viands that the village could furnish, were +served up in rich profusion. They were afterwards entertained by feats +of agility and horseraces; indeed, their visit to the village seemed the +signal for complete festivity. In the meantime, a skin lodge had been +spread for their accommodation, their horses and baggage were taken care +of, and wood and water supplied in abundance. At night, therefore, they +retired to their quarters, to enjoy, as they supposed, the repose of +which they stood in need. No such thing, however, was in store for them. +A crowd of visitors awaited their appearance, all eager for a smoke and +a talk. The pipe was immediately lighted, and constantly replenished +and kept alive until the night was far advanced. As usual, the utmost +eagerness was evinced by the guests to learn everything within the scope +of their comprehension respecting the Americans, for whom they professed +the most fraternal regard. The captain, in his replies, made use of +familiar illustrations, calculated to strike their minds, and impress +them with such an idea of the might of his nation, as would induce them +to treat with kindness and respect all stragglers that might fall in +their path. To their inquiries as to the numbers of the people of the +United States, he assured them that they were as countless as the blades +of grass in the prairies, and that, great as Snake River was, if they +were all encamped upon its banks, they would drink it dry in a single +day. To these and similar statistics, they listened with profound +attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was, indeed, a striking +scene: the captain, with his hunter's dress and bald head in the midst, +holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like so many statues, +the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular figures, all +fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a question +propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a movement +of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and delight. + +The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to +this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to +exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with +pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation. +The captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain. +Her father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and +assured the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the +Americans near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement. +His kind heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl, +and his sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about +sixteen years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature. +The only difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her +malady, and that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After +considering and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when +in a maze of vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his +directions, the girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used +by the Nez Perces, where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave +her a dose of gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to +be wrapped in buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and +blankets. The remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain, +though extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a +bowl of colt's head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on +simple diet. + +The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the +recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a +long time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the +captain's horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that +the steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses, +which he presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad +to see his friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce +to accompany his guest to the next village, and "to carry his talk" +concerning them; and the two parties separated with mutual expressions +of good will. + +The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among +the Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as +they call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by +water poured slowly upon red-hot stones. + +On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut's domains, the travellers left +the elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which +has just been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country, +of such fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the +captain's followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared +that it surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed +what a delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and +teeming soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share. + +Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a +chief named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and +hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued +a west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better +wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their +progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were +invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after +leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at +Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834. + + + + +34. + + Fort Wallah-Wallah--Its commander--Indians in its + neighborhood--Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their + improvement--Religion--Code of laws--Range of the Lower Nez + Perces--Camash, and other roots--Nez--Perce horses-- + Preparations for departure--Refusal of supplies--Departure-- + A laggard and glutton + +FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, +situated just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the +left bank of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated +merely for defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of +Captain Bonneville's arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or +eight men; and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune, +an agent of the Hudson's Bay Company. + +The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its +trade on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of +the Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth +of the Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment +from Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company. + +Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from +Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of +the British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they +have always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders +themselves. + +Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as +well as by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and +peltries collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are +a degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and +tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed +Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the +Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had +evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their +peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however, +the principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The +same gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed +with scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to +a great extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the +Christian faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft, +so venial a crime among the Indians, had recently been punished with +hanging, by sentence of a chief. + +There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and +religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one +of the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an +intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty +years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained +of their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities. +The very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the +prolonged sojourns of Captain Bonneville. + +The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and +other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver, +elk, deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these +animals, they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be +well worth transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among +these is the camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion, +and said to be really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root, +about the size of a walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour; +together with the jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by +steaming them in the ground. + +In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they +catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are +their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed +of comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally +clad in deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all, +they are celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark, +and then suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These +horses are principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and +long-winded. They are brought in great numbers to the establishments of +the Hudson's Bay Company, and sold for a mere trifle. + +Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who, +if not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the +gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They +invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post +might be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would +trade with Americans, in preference to any other people. + +Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this +neighborhood, to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect +information, and establish connections that might be advantageous in +the way of trade. The delays, however, which he had experienced on his +journey, obliged him to shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as +possible, so as to reach the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed +time. He had seen enough to convince him that an American trade might +be carried on with advantage in this quarter; and he determined soon to +return with a stronger party, more completely fitted for the purpose. + +As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to +purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference +between being treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy +superintendent, who had extended to him all the genial rites of +hospitality, now suddenly assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and +observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him, personally, +he felt bound by his duty to the Hudson's Bay Company, to do nothing +which should facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among +the Indians in that part of the country. He endeavored to dissuade +Captain Bonneville from returning through the Blue Mountains; assuring +him it would be extremely difficult and dangerous, if not impracticable, +at this season of the year; and advised him to accompany Mr. Payette, +a leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was about to depart with a +number of men, by a more circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies +to the company's agent, resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain +Bonneville, however, piqued at his having refused to furnish him with +supplies, and doubting the sincerity of his advice, determined to return +by the more direct route through the mountains; though varying his +course, in some respects, from that by which he had come, in consequence +of information gathered among the neighboring Indians. + +Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions, +accompanied by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the +early part of their course, they touched again at several of the Nez +Perce villages, where they had experienced such kind treatment on their +way down. They were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was +done to cheer them on their journey. + +On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce, +whose society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and +good will they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the +little party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a +huge feeder. His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all +labor, and availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march, +he always lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking +a way through all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily +jogging along the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the +evening encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for +the horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the +wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing +away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of +gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper. + +When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He +no longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but +distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor +and duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his +competitors--albeit, experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never +had they witnessed such power of mastication, and such marvellous +capacity of stomach, as in this native and uncultivated gastronome. +Having, by repeated and prolonged assaults, at length completely +gorged himself, he would wrap himself up and lie with the torpor of an +anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the next repast. + +The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of +surprise and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too +serious for a joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he +was regarded askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to +waste the substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations +they were under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest; +but he proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these +obligations, by eating a receipt in full. + + + + +35. + + The uninvited guest--Free and easy manners--Salutary jokes-- + A prodigal son--Exit of the glutton--A sudden change in + fortune--Danger of a visit to poor relations--Plucking of a + prosperous man--A vagabond toilet--A substitute for the very + fine horse--Hard travelling--The uninvited guest and the + patriarchal colt--A beggar on horseback--A catastrophe--Exit + of the merry vagabond + +As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the +hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty +supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest. +He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows, +and had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing +with an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the +ground, and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their +mess, helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left +in the liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran +dinner hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more +knowingly. The travellers were at first completely taken by surprise, +and could not but admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite +made himself at home among them. While they stared he went on, making +the most of the good cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted; +and was soon elbow deep in "pot luck," and greased from the tip of his +nose to the back of his ears. + +As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed +at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his +tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish +for such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the +"provant" upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited +him to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess. + +He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on +eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole +countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his +repast, his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who, +as usual, was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the +eye showed either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his +characteristics. He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries; +and cracked off two or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt +to prick up his ears, and delighted all the company. From this time, the +uninvited guest was taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished; +his careless, free and easy air, to be considered singularly amusing; +and in the end, he was pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest +companions and most entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the +wilderness. + +Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was +the simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention +of keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no +objection; and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the +carcass of the buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this +time, he had so completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by +his first appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the +Nez Perce guide undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next +morning, at break of day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the +hills, nor was anything more seen of him until a few minutes after the +party had encamped for the evening, when he again made his appearance, +in his usual frank, careless manner, and threw down the carcass of +another noble deer, which he had borne on his back for a considerable +distance. + +This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative +disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of +his history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village; +living a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and +imperative commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled +from the village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had +betaken himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a +careless, haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors; +heedless of the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present; +and fearing no lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the +chase, and a fair hunting ground. + +Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his +eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville +fitted him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon +became quite attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal +services he performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that +hitherto oppressed the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had +seemed so perfectly insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by +which the travellers had endeavored to elbow him out of their society, +could not withstand the good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp +wit of She-wee-she. He evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat +blinking like an owl in daylight, when pestered by the flouts and +peckings of mischievous birds. At length his place was found vacant at +meal-time; no one knew when he went off, or whither he had gone, but he +was seen no more, and the vast surplus that remained when the repast was +over, showed what a mighty gormandizer had departed. + +Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily. +She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always +successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or +on the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of +his countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in +good-humor. + +In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the +Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she +took a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of +worldly prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly +departed in the morning, arrayed in hunter's style, and well appointed +with everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the +elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that +he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about +to give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what +a change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in +the evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail +between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was +born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a +fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed +it to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they +recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom +they had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather, +they could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and +repeated peals of laughter. + +She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined +in the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his +reverse of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however, +thought proper to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree +of sternness, the cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most +natural and self-complacent style imaginable, "that he had been among +his cousins, who were very poor; they had been delighted to see him; +still more delighted with his good fortune; they had taken him to their +arms; admired his equipments; one had begged for this; another for +that"--in fine, what with the poor devil's inherent heedlessness, and +the real generosity of his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded +in stripping him of all his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig +leaf with which he had returned to camp. + +Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville +determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a +salutary lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in +the neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift +for himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give +him any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of +his lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin; +whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, +so that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South +American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together, +under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before +the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he +thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet. + +A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village +of Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who +had made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse. +The old man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual +cordiality, and his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing +grateful recollections of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus +of friendly gratulation. + +As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting +family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate +to the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored +him to the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the +invaluable gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied +with a fine two years' old colt in his stead, a substitution which he +afterward learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might +have claimed as a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims +were made on account of this colt. This donation may be regarded, +therefore, as a signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found +that the animal soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party. + +While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with +some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about +to traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in +gloomy forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth +in the passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as +he proceeded. He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very +slowly, so as to keep the horses in strength and spirit for the +hard times they would have to encounter. The captain surrendered the +regulation of the march entirely to his discretion, and pushed on in the +advance, amusing himself with hunting, so as generally to kill a deer +or two in the course of the day, and arriving, before the rest of the +party, at the spot designated by the guide for the evening's encampment. + +In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide, +accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn +by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of +the mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper +beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they +quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high +good-humor. + +So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch's. The +second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the +rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part +of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard +exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery, +the patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to +follow on at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he +was on his back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The +colt, unused to such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing +and rearing and snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length, +set off full speed over the most dangerous ground. As the route led +generally along the steep and craggy sides of the hills, both horse and +horseman were constantly in danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth +escape from deadly peril. Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap +savage. He stuck to the colt like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down +gullies; whooping and yelling with the wildest glee. Never did beggar +on horseback display more headlong horsemanship. His companions followed +him with their eyes, sometimes laughing, sometimes holding in their +breath at his vagaries, until they saw the colt make a sudden plunge or +start, and pitch his unlucky rider headlong over a precipice. There was +a general cry of horror, and all hastened to the spot. They found the +poor fellow lying among the rocks below, sadly bruised and mangled. +It was almost a miracle that he had escaped with life. Even in this +condition, his merry spirit was not entirely quelled, and he summoned up +a feeble laugh at the alarm and anxiety of those who came to his relief. +He was extricated from his rocky bed, and a messenger dispatched to +inform Captain Bonneville of the accident. The latter returned with all +speed, and encamped the party at the first convenient spot. Here the +wounded man was stretched upon buffalo skins, and the captain, who +officiated on all occasions as doctor and surgeon to the party, +proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one was a long and deep +gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling for a needle and +thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound, admonishing the +patient to submit to the operation with becoming fortitude. His gayety +was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a forced smile; and, +at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so piteously, that the +captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a powerful dose of +alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed his heart; all +the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes riveted on the +wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the countenance, +that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic curl. + +When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and +administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in +for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless +and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would +be so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the +party; nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion +favorable to his wishes. + +Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding +that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting +to use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several +efforts to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue +forward; but at length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that +"as he had but one leg," it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the +mountain. + +Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such +disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each +one making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse, +which Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting +expressions of good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old +haunts; doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy +cousins. + + + + +36. + + The difficult mountain--A smoke and consultation--The + captain's speech--An icy turnpike--Danger of a false step-- + Arrival on Snake River--Return to--Portneuf--Meeting of + comrades + +CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers +found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in +quantity, so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged, +therefore, to beat down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling +on the icy surface of the stream. At length they reached the place where +they intended to scale the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to +the foot, were agreeably surprised to find that the wind had drifted the +snow from off the side, so that they attained the summit with but little +difficulty. Here they encamped, with the intention of beating a track +through the mountains. A short experiment, however, obliged them to give +up the attempt, the snow lying in vast drifts, often higher than the +horses' heads. + +Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to +reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the +rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about +nine miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed +impracticable. He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides, +proceeded to hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while +they all smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject +matter before them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in +which the two guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly +cross the snows. They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed +on foot, and they should take the horses back to the village, where they +would be well taken care of until Captain Bonneville should send for +them. They urged this advice with great earnestness; declaring that +their chief would be extremely angry, and treat them severely, should +any of the horses of his good friends, the white men, be lost, in +crossing under their guidance; and that, therefore, it was good they +should not attempt it. + +Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with +Indian silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them +in their own style of language. + +"My friends," said he, "I have seen the pass, and have listened to your +words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your +way, you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great +obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell, +and they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for +the present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp." + +He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he +found the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been +surveying the neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was +at least a hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused +fresh spirit in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to +proceed. About dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now +suggested itself. This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on +them, and drag them to the other side of the mountain, thus forming +a road in the wet snow, which, should it afterward freeze, would be +sufficiently hard to bear the horses. This plan was promptly put into +execution; the sleds were constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn +backward and forward until the road was beaten, when they desisted +from their fatiguing labor. The night turned out clear and cold, and by +morning, their road was incrusted with ice sufficiently strong for their +purpose. They now set out on their icy turnpike, and got on well enough, +excepting that now and then a horse would sidle out of the track, and +immediately sink up to the neck. Then came on toil and difficulty, and +they would be obliged to haul up the floundering animal with ropes. One, +more unlucky than the rest, after repeated falls, had to be abandoned in +the snow. Notwithstanding these repeated delays, they succeeded, before +the sun had acquired sufficient power to thaw the snow, in getting all +the rest of their horses safely to the other side of the mountain. + +Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They +had now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with +ice. It was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun +should melt the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in +the yielding snow. They had a frightful warning of the danger of +any movement while the sleet remained. A wild young mare, in her +restlessness, strayed to the edge of a declivity. One slip was fatal +to her; she lost her balance, careered with headlong velocity down the +slippery side of the mountain for more than two thousand feet, and was +dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers afterward sought +the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and mangled in the +most horrible manner. + +It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the +ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them +to prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day +they succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then +packing all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more +set out briskly and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day +succeeded in getting to a grassy region. + +Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the +mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and +needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return +home. This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their +faithful services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white +friends, after which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging +many farewells and kind wishes. + +On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the +mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found +the grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this +neighborhood, he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids +of basaltes, rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet. + +Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the +party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams. +After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people +were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions +to discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join +them. He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract +of country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he +now shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small +hordes of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon +trout and other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season +in fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated +the mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn. + +On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in +the vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company +on the preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the +beginning of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two +months beyond the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this +have been broken up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched +scouts a few miles above, to visit the old camping ground and search for +signals of the party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually +have abandoned the spot. They returned without being able to ascertain +anything. + +Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary +to make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches, +therefore, on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their +baggage, and then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as +to kill a couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined +to husband this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest +they should again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous +hunting grounds. Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they +found that the wolves had been at the caches, scratched up the contents, +and scattered them in every direction. They now constructed a more +secure one, in which they deposited their heaviest articles, and then +descended Snake River again, and encamped just above the American Falls. +Here they proceeded to fortify themselves, intending to remain here, +and give their horses an opportunity to recruit their strength with good +pasturage, until it should be time to set out for the annual rendezvous +in Bear River valley. + +On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the +river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by +a discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of +their own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the +whole party which he had left in the preceding month of December were +encamped on Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far +above the Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch, +and in a little while had the pleasure of finding himself once more +surrounded by his people, who greeted his return among them in the +heartiest manner; for his long-protracted absence had convinced them +that he and his three companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe. + +The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by +famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches +at Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and +considered themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the +dangerous neighborhood without sustaining any loss. + +Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his +men was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such +feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was +wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in +particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia +was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game +flavor of the wilderness. + + + + +37. + + Departure for the rendezvous--A war party of Blackfeet--A + mock bustle--Sham fires at night--Warlike precautions-- + Dangers of a night attack--A panic among horses--Cautious + march--The Beer Springs--A mock carousel--Skirmishing with + buffaloes--A buffalo bait--Arrival at the rendezvous-- + Meeting of various bands + +AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke +up the encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free +trappers, half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in +Bear River valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon +reached the hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the +march, he descried from the brow of a hill, a war party of about +sixty Blackfeet, on the plain immediately below him. His situation was +perilous; for the greater part of his people were dispersed in various +directions. Still, to betray hesitation or fear would be to discover his +actual weakness, and to invite attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore, +a belligerent tone; ordered the squaws to lead the horses to a small +grove of ashen trees, and unload and tie them; and caused a great bustle +to be made by his scanty handful; the leaders riding hither and thither, +and vociferating with all their might, as if a numerous force was +getting under way for an attack. + +To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number +of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His +men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In +such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle +beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in +case of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at +once, and start up, completely armed. + +Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses, +and set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and +principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage +is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens +another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps +where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night +alarm of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have +broken loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain +fast; the howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of +white men, and red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and +trampling of fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up +forms of men and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make +up one of the wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way, +sometimes, all the horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be +frightened off in a single night. + +The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no +likelihood that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp +where there was a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The +captain, therefore, continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions; +throwing out scouts in the advance, and on every rising ground. + +In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already +mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by +the trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments +every spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand, +indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying +jokes, singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it +seemed as if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and +cheated them into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of +the moment, they were loud and extravagant in their commendations of +"the mountain tap"; elevating it above every beverage produced from hops +or malt. It was a singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region +where everything is strange and peculiar:--These groups of trappers, and +hunters, and Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances; +their boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry +round these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons, +ready to be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of +representing banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here +were groups, still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden +onset of Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to +a furious melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper's life +complete. + +The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance; +and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache +behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River; +amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which +the country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his +repose in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon +him; then rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot +at him as he started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal +springs upon his legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular +process by which it is effected. The horse rises first upon his fore +legs; and the domestic cow, upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo +bounds at once from a couchant to an erect position, with a celerity +that baffles the eye. Though from his bulk, and rolling gait, he does +not appear to run with much swiftness; yet, it takes a stanch horse to +overtake him, when at full speed on level ground; and a buffalo cow is +still fleeter in her motion. + +Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable +horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind +of buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they +prepared for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on +horseback, they would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession, +goading him to make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the +horse, they would easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him, +feathering him with arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was +bristled all over like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs +of exhaustion, and he could no longer be provoked to make battle, they +would dismount from their horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing +him by the tail, jerk him from side to side, and drag him backward; +until the frantic animal, gathering fresh strength from fury, would +break from them, and rush, with flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing, +upon any enemy in sight; but in a little while, his transient excitement +at an end, would pitch headlong on the ground, and expire. The arrows +were then plucked forth, the tongue cut out and preserved as a dainty, +and the carcass left a banquet for the wolves. + +Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the +13th of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or +five days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he +found extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that +he was obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore +them. The mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the +west, are marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is +a beautiful beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs, +which advance upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery. +The water is very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish. + +Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on +his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher +up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to +circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the +nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days; +and were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades, +from whom they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain +Bonneville was about the result of their journey, and the information +they had procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense +curiosity and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in +the following chapter. + + + + +38. + + Plan of the Salt Lake expedition--Great sandy deserts-- + Sufferings from thirst--Ogden's--River--Trails and smoke of + lurking savages--Thefts at night--A trapper's revenge-- + Alarms of a guilty conscience--A murderous victory-- + Californian mountains--Plains along the--Pacific--Arrival + at--Monterey--Account of the place and neighborhood--Lower-- + California--Its extent--The Peninsula--Soil--Climate-- + Production--Its settlements by the Jesuits--Their sway over + the Indians--Their expulsion--Ruins of a missionary + establishment--Sublime scenery--Upper California Missions-- + Their power and policy--Resources of the country--Designs of + foreign nations + +IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the +brigade of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the +Great Salt Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping +on all the streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals +and make charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the +surrounding country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been +tasked to fit out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the +southwest of the mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet +almost unknown; being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed +by the trapper, who preferred those parts of the wilderness where +the roaming herds of that species of animal gave him comparatively an +abundant and luxurious life. Still it was said the deer, the elk, and +the bighorn were to be found there, so that, with a little diligence and +economy, there was no danger of lacking food. As a precaution, however, +the party halted on Bear River and hunted for a few days, until they had +laid in a supply of dried buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by +the head waters of the Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched +on an immense sandy desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the +Great Salt Lake, spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running +into it. A desert extended around them, and stretched to the southwest, +as far as the eye could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa +in sterility. There was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, +nor running stream, nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and +rider were in danger of perishing. + +Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned +their intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains, +brightening in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time, +they came upon a small stream leading directly towards these mountains. +Having quenched their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their +weary horses for a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually +increased in size, being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the +mountains, it took a sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers +still kept along it, trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which +they subsisted for the present, husbanding their dried meat for future +necessities. + +The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River, +but is more generally known as Ogden's River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an +enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson's Bay Company, who +first explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the +travellers were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or +Root Diggers, the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy +people, prone to keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently +met with their trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in +various parts of the vast landscape, so that they knew there were great +numbers in the neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be +met with. + +After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the +Shoshokoes were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was +dogged by these eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles +were missing, yet nothing could be seen of the marauders. What +particularly exasperated the hunters, was to have their traps stolen +from the streams. One morning, a trapper of a violent and savage +character, discovering that his traps had been carried off in the night, +took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian he should meet, innocent +or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades to camp, he beheld two +unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank, fishing. Advancing upon +them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the spot, and flung his +bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled and was suffered +to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of violence are +regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed ruffian +enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment this +desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The +trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on +westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range +of mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain, +on the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising, +as before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now +converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the +scattered bands for vengeance. + +After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes +in considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however, +suspected them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd +into and get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and +daring conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads +of the poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive +race, unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons, +excepting for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains +and along the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other +times on roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat's-tail. They +are of the same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake +River, and whom he found so mild and inoffensive. + +The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making +their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round +their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise +them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying +into Ogden's River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number +of Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were +there with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their +rifles, and killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to +a short distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like +wolves, and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them +in every direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with +terror; neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors, +that a weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians +throughout the affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages +had no hostile intention, but had merely gathered together through +motives of curiosity, as others of their tribe had done when Captain +Bonneville and his companions passed along Snake River. + +The trappers continued down Ogden's River, until they ascertained that +it lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent +discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of +California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the +shores of the Pacific. + +For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains, +the peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual +snow. Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking +of the sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful +precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage +mountains were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved; +at length, they made their way through them, and came down upon the +plains of New California, a fertile region extending along the coast, +with magnificent forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked +like stately parks. Here they found deer and other game in abundance, +and indemnified themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the +south, and passing numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various +streams, arrived at the Spanish village and post of Monterey. + +This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in +latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage. +The surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys; +the soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and +the climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California, +extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30' to 42 north, is +represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North +America. + +Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great +peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone. +It is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes +called the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the +West, the Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called. +The peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many +sandy plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical +cactus growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water, +however, and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens +everything into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with +the rich and beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane +and indigo plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of +North America. There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the +orange, the citron, the pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the +voluptuous climates of the south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a +generous wine. In the interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty +veins of gold are said, likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful +water are to be fished upon the coast. + +The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who, +certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved +the most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained +and maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military +force, but solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty, +and entered into the most amicable relations with the natives, then +numbering from twenty-five to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold +upon their affections, and a control over their minds, that effected +a complete change in their condition. They built eleven missionary +establishments in the various valleys of the peninsula, which formed +rallying places for the surrounding savages, where they gathered +together as sheep into the fold, and surrendered themselves and their +consciences into the hands of these spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are +told, could exceed the implicit and affectionate devotion of the Indian +converts to the Jesuit fathers, and the Catholic faith was disseminated +widely through the wilderness. The growing power and influence of the +Jesuits in the New World at length excited the jealousy of the Spanish +government, and they were banished from the colonies. The governor, who +arrived at California to expel them, and to take charge of the country, +expected to find a rich and powerful fraternity, with immense treasures +hoarded in their missions, and an army of Indians ready to defend them. +On the contrary, he beheld a few venerable silver-haired priests coming +humbly forward to meet him, followed by a throng of weeping, but +submissive natives. The heart of the governor, it is said, was so +touched by this unexpected sight, that he shed tears; but he had to +execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their +embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners, who took +leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the latter abandoned their +hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their southern brethren, +so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The Franciscans +immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the Dominicans; +but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the missionary +establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are all in +ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power and +prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the +chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley, +about half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the +peninsula being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn +stone, one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about +fifty-five feet deep. The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet +high, with a vaulted roof of stone, about two feet and a half in +thickness. It is now abandoned and desolate; the beautiful valley is +without an inhabitant--not a human being resides within thirty miles of +the place! + +In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller +passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak +in the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent +prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark +blue sea beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the +immense lava plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an +Italian effect to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, +and the sunsets are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a +slight and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula. + +Upper California extends from latitude 31 10' to 42 on the Pacific, and +inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from +the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in +this province, most of which were established about fifty years since, +and are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a +protecting sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who +reside on the lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has +fifteen miles square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots, +proportioned to the number of Indian converts attached to the mission. +Some are enclosed with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets, +composed of rows of huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances +whitewashed and roofed with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior, +beyond the reach of all military protection, and dependent entirely on +the good will of the natives, which never fails them. They have made +considerable progress in teaching the Indians the useful arts. There +are native tanners, shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters, +and other artificers attached to each establishment. Others are taught +husbandry, and the rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card +and spin wool, weave, and perform the other duties allotted to their +sex in civilized life. No social intercourse is allowed between the +unmarried of the opposite sexes after working hours; and at night they +are locked up in separate apartments, and the keys delivered to the +priests. + +The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are +entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for +the support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under +their control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the +missions, and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might +be produced to an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there +a sufficient market for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the +missions. + +Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former +may be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an +inferior breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable +qualities, cost from seven to ten dollars. + +There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San +Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of +Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port +of San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place. +The entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole +navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take +their rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run +through a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves +into the harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for +ship-building. In a word, this favored port combines advantages which +not only fit it for a grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of +being made the dominant military post of these seas. + +Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value +of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The +Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already +encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the +port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys +have likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we +have little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and, +until recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources +of wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its +inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches; +they have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast +interior that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and +industry to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor +to prosecute that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a +country into profitable action. + + + + +39. + + Gay life at Monterey--Mexican horsemen--A bold dragoon--Use + of the lasso--Vaqueros--Noosing a bear--Fight between a bull + and a bear--Departure from Monterey--Indian horse stealers-- + Outrages committed by the travellers--Indignation of Captain + Bonneville + +THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the +inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered +extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When +they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests +at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be +their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted +to kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze +the country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners. +They attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of +their expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not +belong to them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool's paradise. + +What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the +Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this +country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of +California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are +fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild +horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of +the prairies. + +A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the +equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero +of Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed +in a round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches, +unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer +skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel +of his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round +the lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries +a bull's hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before +and behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish +fashion, and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle +at his heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself +the glory of California, and the terror of the universe. + +The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that +is to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are +expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to +Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come, +originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral +people of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the +army of Xerxes. By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of +purposes; and among others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting, +they cast the noose around a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The +vaqueros, or Indian cattle drivers, have also learned the use of the +laso from the Spaniards; and employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by +throwing it round their horns. + +The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite, +though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull. +For this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood, +frequented by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide +themselves in the vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As +soon as one, fit for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out, +and with the laso, dexterously noose him by either leg. After +dragging him at full speed until he is fatigued, they secure him more +effectually; and tying him on the carcass of the bullock, draw him in +triumph to the scene of action. By this time, he is exasperated to such +frenzy, that they are sometimes obliged to throw cold water on him, to +moderate his fury; and dangerous would it be, for horse and rider, were +he, while in this paroxysm, to break his bonds. + +A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated +in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose +in the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly; +and always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is, +by his previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring +of the bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to +this most sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony. +In his heat and fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly +clutched by the bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge +antagonist; and then dispatches him without difficulty. + +Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with +bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being +considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions. + +After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying, +but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party +set out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing +their steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern +extremity, and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the +sandy plains south of Ogden's River; in traversing which, they again +suffered, grievously, for want of water. + +In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in +pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages +of this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and +armed only with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the +Spaniards not to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult, +with their blunt shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they +occasionally supply themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish +horses. Driving them stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they +slaughter them without difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions. +Some they carry off to trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the +Spanish horses pass from hand to hand among the Indians, until they even +find their way across the Rocky Mountains. + +The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders; +but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and +wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses. + +Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers, +and proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey +through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to +have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest +outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the +light of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them +with the sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for +the infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they +were guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them +without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their +unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with +their lasos, and then dragging them to death! + +Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at +least, such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect; +for he was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so +indignant at the atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust +and horror, from the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch +law of the wilderness, and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their +own lasos, it would but have been a well-merited and salutary act of +retributive justice. The failure of this expedition was a blow to his +pride, and a still greater blow to his purse. The Great Salt Lake +still remained unexplored; at the same time, the means which had been +furnished so liberally to fit out this favorite expedition, had all been +squandered at Monterey; and the peltries, also, which had been collected +on the way. He would have but scanty returns, therefore, to make this +year, to his associates in the United States; and there was great danger +of their becoming disheartened, and abandoning the enterprise. + + + + +40. + + Traveller's tales--Indian lurkers--Prognostics of Buckeye + Signs and portents--The medicine wolf--An alarm--An ambush + The captured provant--Triumph of Buckeye--Arrival of + supplies Grand carouse--Arrangements for the year--Mr. Wyeth + and his new-levied band. + +THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses +of the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on +the contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the +camp. The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among +the hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and +bull-fights especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had +another expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would +have been to restrain a general eagerness to volunteer. + +The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by +various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was +evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march, +had dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep +his camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline +among trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port. + +Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of +the hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up +caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs +and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white +comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans, +or medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the +howling or barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven +by the larger wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by +the hunters, follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp. +Here the smell of the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze, +keeps them hovering about the neighborhood; scenting every blast, +turning up their noses like hungry hounds, and testifying their +pinching hunger by long whining howls and impatient barkings. These are +interpreted by the superstitious Indians into warnings that strangers +are at hand; and one accidental coincidence, like the chance fulfillment +of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to cover a thousand failures. +This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is, therefore, called among +Indians the "medicine wolf;" and such was one of Buckeye's infallible +oracles. + +One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy +countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from +mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not +appear. "Danger," he said, "was lurking in their path, and there would +be some fighting before sunset." He was bantered for his prophecy, which +was attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by +bad dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in +pursuit of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat +they should procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came +clattering at full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet! +Blackfeet! Every one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the +alarm. It appeared that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely, +leading their mule well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed +close by a small stream overhung with trees, about two miles from +the camp. Suddenly a party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the +thickets, sprang up with a fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the +hunters. The latter immediately threw themselves flat on their horses, +put them to their speed, and never paused to look behind, until they +found themselves in camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound; +but the mule, with all the "provant," had fallen into the hands of the +enemy This was a loss, as well as an insult, not to be borne. Every +man sprang to horse, and with rifle in hand, galloped off to punish +the Blackfeet, and rescue the buffalo beef. They came too late; the +marauders were off, and all that they found of their mule was the dents +of his hoofs, as he had been conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his +savory cargo to the hills, to furnish the scampering savages with a +banquet of roast meat at the expense of the white men. + +The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more +grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by +his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars +of the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then +pointing to the west, "the sun has not yet set," said he: "Buckeye did +not dream like a fool!" + +All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak, +and were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to +mind, also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions +made at various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious +credulity, began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how +natural it was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction +verified in the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a +lurking foe. + +The various bands of Captain Bonneville's company had now been assembled +for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting, +and frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth +merrymaking, which invariably take place on these occasions. Their +horses, as well as themselves, had recovered from past famine and +fatigue, and were again fit for active service; and an impatience began +to manifest itself among the men once more to take the field, and set +off on some wandering expedition. + +At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a +supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active +leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in +skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year's collection of +peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of +his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged. + +The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual +revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers; +drinking, dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting. +Alcohol, which, from its portable qualities, containing the greatest +quantity of fiery spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor +carried across the mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these +carousals, and is dealt out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When +inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks +and gambols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their drunken +bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one of these riotous revels, presents +a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes, broken heads, lack-lustre visages. +Many of the trappers have squandered in one drunken frolic the +hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt, and must toil on to +pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep draught of pleasure, +and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for hardship and hard +work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and topped off with +an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless trapper. + +The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and +Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed +to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year. +Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the +Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills, +and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter +quarters. + +The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He +intended to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the +lower part of the Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the +Multnomah; after wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with +those tribes, among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would +return in the spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and +his party in the month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where +he expected to receive his annual supplies from the States. + +If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the +contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by +noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings. +Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July, +on their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that +Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who +had parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn, +to descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new +levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the +banks of the Columbia. + +As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this "eastern man," +and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his +movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with +the reader's permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his +camp and saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few +hundred miles in distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch +ourselves with Wyeth in his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage +will take us many hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering +rivers; yet such is the magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring +the reader safe to Bear River Valley, by the time the last horse is +saddled. + + + + +41. + + A voyage in a bull boat. + +IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, +as the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of +the rapids of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of +Campbell and Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo +skins, stretched on a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid +with elk tallow and ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five +feet six inches wide, sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew +about a foot and a half of water-a depth too great for these upper +rivers, which abound with shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of +two half-breeds, who claimed to be white men, though a mixture of the +French creole and the Shawnee and Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover, +to be thorough mountaineers, and first-rate hunters--the common boast of +these vagabonds of the wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce +lad of eighteen years of age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great +aim, like all Indian servants, was to do as little work as possible; +there was, moreover, a half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son +of a Hudson's Bay trader by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with +Wyeth to see the world and complete his education. Add to these, Mr. +Milton Sublette, who went as passenger, and we have the crew of the +little bull boat complete. + +It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet +through countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to +navigate these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running +on snags and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells +with which these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest +streams; and it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these +boats will endure, and what vicissitudes they will live through. Their +duration, however, is but limited; they require frequently to be +hauled out of the water and dried, to prevent the hides from becoming +water-soaked; and they eventually rot and go to pieces. + +The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about +five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally +alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled +occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs +and promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands. +Beyond the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills. + +Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat +experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his +attention and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags +of sunken trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where +the river branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and +occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back. + +It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were +passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in +reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable +foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly +promenading along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as +they glided by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying +on the ground, like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as +these, a perfect solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign +of human habitation; for the Crows, as we have already shown, are a +wandering people, a race of hunters and warriors, who live in tents and +on horseback, and are continually on the move. At night they landed, +hauled up their boat to dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing +fire. Then, as it was the first evening of their voyage, they indulged +in a regale, relishing their buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after +which, they slept soundly, without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early +in the morning, they again launched the boat and committed themselves to +the stream. + +In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence, +excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore, +and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried +some persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by +calculation, at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the +American Fur Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A +nearer approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from +the rest, they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main +force of the Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several +chiefs, were but about two or three miles below, on their way up along +the river. This was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible, +and the river afforded no hiding place. They continued forward, +therefore, trusting that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows +might refrain from any depredations. + +Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first +band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with +guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made +a wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their +accustomed dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band +of Crow cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in +height, lithe and active, with hawks' eyes and Roman noses. The +latter feature is common to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky +Mountains; those on the western side have generally straight or flat +noses. + +Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the +river, at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was +perceived, therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and, +we presume, in no very choice language; for, among their other +accomplishments, the Crows are famed for possessing a Billingsgate +vocabulary of unrivalled opulence, and for being by no means sparing +of it whenever an occasion offers. Indeed, though Indians are generally +very lofty, rhetorical, and figurative in their language at all great +talks, and high ceremonials, yet, if trappers and traders may be +believed, they are the most unsavory vagabonds in their ordinary +colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a spade a spade; and when +they once undertake to call hard names, the famous pot and kettle, of +vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them for scurrility of +epithet. + +To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the +launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with +the best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was +Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have +already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse +between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good +presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too, +thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow +fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a +still greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his +own with surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step +among the crowd. + +Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do +but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez +Perce's scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped +up and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped +himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that +Wyeth and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of +these officious Crows before they were entirely plucked. + +Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the +second band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of +passing them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns +at the boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the +stream, and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth +threw a cord to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be +drawn to the shore. + +In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his +people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most +of their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity +of the American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good +prize of the bull boat and all its contents. + +These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of +mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in +the autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects; +hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their +trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow +country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by +some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of +their rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their +competition was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a +great object of rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the +Crows in their depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent +chiefly on robbing the parties of their traps and horses, thereby +disabling them from prosecuting their hunting. + +We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were +pushing their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those +of the American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are +speaking, Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel +boat, laden with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this +eager rivalship being carried to extremes. + +The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds +of dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the +river and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this +stream, they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank, +about three miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld +a party of thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be +Blackfeet. The width of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient +distance, and they soon landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere +fortification against Indians; being a stockade of about one hundred and +thirty feet square, with two bastions at the extreme corners. M'Tulloch, +an agent of the American Company, was stationed there with twenty men; +two boats of fifteen tons burden were lying here; but at certain seasons +of the year a steamboat can come up to the fort. + +They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their +appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token +of amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly +received at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been +engaged, the year previously, in the battle at Pierre's Hole, and a +fierce-looking set of fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very +much resembling the Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand, +to make peace with the Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to +overtake them. Wyeth predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he +had heard the Crows denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two +of their warriors who had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty +of peace. It is probable, however, that this pacific errand was all a +pretence, and that the real object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang +about the skirts of the Crow band, steal their horses, and take the +scalps of stragglers. + +At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a +quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he +once more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone, +which inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial +bottoms, fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood, +and interrupted occasionally by "bluffs" of sandstone. The current +occasionally brings down fragments of granite and porphyry. + +In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among +the trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want +of provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time, +a party of Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all +speed, to the opposite side of the river. + +After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was +immediately for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs +of dissatisfaction in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as +trenching upon their province, and meddling with things quite above +his capacity; for these veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly +pragmatical, on points of venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their +superiority; looking down with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners. +The two worthies, therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time +returned empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their +guns; two miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their +picking and hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great +boasters of the wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots, +and fortunate it is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the +blame. + +The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on +a prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth, +and again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing +went off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing +his dinner if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand, +therefore, and went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned +laden with buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular +hunters, who were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn. + +All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made +under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece +of meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before +it; in a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters +gradually recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard +their old flint guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and +boasted more than ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they +had guns that never missed fire. + +Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their +repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on +their way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they +hoisted whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the +stream. Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and +land, with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped +on islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a +dangerous neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving +their fire burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making +no fire at their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night +with the current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept. +in such case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the +following day to dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was +gradually getting water-soaked and rotten. + +There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating +down these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these +elevated regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened +the magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of +the waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary +howl, or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and +bellowing of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the +ear with an effect unknown in the daytime. + +The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification +when they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding +swiftly round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them +gave the alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and +every one caught up his rifle. "Where are they?" cried Wyeth. + +"There--there! riding on horseback!" cried one of the hunters. + +"Yes; with white scarfs on!" cried the other. + +Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but +two bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and +seeming, from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an +opposite direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans, +who prided themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight, +produced a hearty laugh at their expense, and put an end to their +vauntings. + +The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream; +its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow +clay color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour, +with occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed +them all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places +precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region +abounding with buffalo--that ever-journeying animal, which moves in +countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing +plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming +rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some +traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at +certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit +the remotest shores. + +These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths +and highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest +passes of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers. +When once a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward, +regardless of all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving +mass behind. At such times they will break through a camp, trampling +down everything in their course. + +It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these +buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long +asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and +the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had +just time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the +opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they +moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the +column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank. + +It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold +this countless throng making their way across the river, blowing, +and bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and +continuous column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the +waters of which rise and rush over their backs, or between their +squadrons. The roaring and rushing sound of one of these vast herds +crossing a river, may sometimes in a still night be heard for miles. + +The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many +buffaloes as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their +havoc; especially among scattered herds, that came swimming near the +boat. On one occasion, an old buffalo bull approached so near that the +half-breeds must fain try to noose him as they would a wild horse. The +noose was successfully thrown around his head, and secured him by the +horns, and they now promised themselves ample sport. The buffalo +made prodigious turmoil in the water, bellowing, and blowing, and +floundering; and they all floated down the stream together. At length he +found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to his heels, whirled the boat +after him like a whale when harpooned; so that the hunters were obliged +to cast off their rope, with which strange head-gear the venerable bull +made off to the prairies. + +On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew, +into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above +the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the +distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country. +It was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet +square, pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably +entertained by Mr. M'Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him +three days, enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and +cheese, for the fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it +had no garden. The atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be +too dry for the culture of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down +the Yellowstone, had met with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and +had observed ash and elm trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be +incompatible with gardening. + +At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men. +This was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot +warrior. It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth +murdered the year previously, at Jackson's Hole, by the Blackfeet, and +whose bones had been subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This +flask had either been passed from hand to hand of the youth, or, +perhaps, had been brought to the fort by the very savage who slew him. + +As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the +broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up, +and a canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the +Blackfeet, was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his +sail, and bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union, +turned his prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri. + +He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a +large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William +Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition +to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they +were treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a +social evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially +the memorable fight at Pierre's Hole. + +Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the +canoe, and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the +fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on +his course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever +voyaged on the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the +stream, without any chance of missing the way. + +All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and +supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with +the current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and +serene; the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the +commencement of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the +night the canoe struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the +rush and roar of the wild waters, which broke around her. They were +all obliged to jump overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was +accomplished with much difficulty. + +In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at +different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and +was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed +hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising +to entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him. +Their only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before +they could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until +he was fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled +forward with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him +in the rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the +cord and slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles. +There was nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however, +than to beat a retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned +suddenly round and made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous +show of teeth. The affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle +off. Scarce had they turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous +claws on the gunwale, and attempted to get on board. The canoe was +nearly overturned, and a deluge of water came pouring over the gunwale. +All was clamor, terror, and confusion. Every one bawled out--the bear +roared and snarled--one caught up a gun; but water had rendered it +useless. Others handled their paddles more effectually, and beating old +Bruin about the head and claws, obliged him to relinquish his hold. They +now plied their paddles with might and main, the bear made the best +of his way to shore, and so ended the second exploit of the noose; the +hunters determined to have no more naval contests with grizzly bears. + +The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they +were approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less +dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties. + +In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted +quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he +supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed +his voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at +midday, to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters +mounted a high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his +eye round, when he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the +river. Crouching down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he +had seen. On further reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one +lodges; and from the number of horses, computed that there must be +nearly a hundred Indians encamped there. They now drew their boat, with +all speed and caution, into a thicket of water willows, and remained +closely concealed all day. As soon as the night closed in they +re-embarked. The moon would rise early; so that they had but about two +hours of darkness to get past the camp. The night, however, was cloudy, +with a blustering wind. Silently, and with muffled oars, they glided +down the river, keeping close under the shore opposite to the camp; +watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark forms passing to +and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of land, they found +themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the river. It appeared +that not more than one half of the band had crossed. They were within a +few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages--some standing, +some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some lodges were +set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare of the +fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the +surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly +came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked; +but the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth +instantly sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it +struck upon a sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying +situation; for he was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle +range of both. All hands jumped out into the water, and tried to get +the boat off; but as no one dared to give the word, they could not pull +together, and their labor was in vain. In this way they labored for a +long time; until Wyeth thought of giving a signal for a general heave, +by lifting his hat. The expedient succeeded. They launched their canoe +again into deep water, and getting in, had the delight of seeing the +camp fires of the savages soon fading in the distance. + +They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond +all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped. + +The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in +carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm +night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the +night, taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night +was occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse +lowing of the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching +of the small ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike +sound of the swan. + +Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds, +tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in +extreme danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having +continued to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under +a great snag, or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These +caught the mast, while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream, +and began to fill with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but +cutting away the mast. She then drove down the stream, but left one of +the unlucky half-breeds clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole. +It was necessary to run in shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies +and to attain some distance above the snag, when they launched forth +again into the stream and floated down with it to his rescue. + +We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of +a months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in +the course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the +rival fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe. +Neither shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as +the voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of +latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry +and basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the +characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still +more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession +of latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the +frozen regions to the tropics. + +The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the +rivers, on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of +the western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct +the voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself +in a stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from +river to river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he +might have kept on upward of two thousand miles, until his little +bark should drift into the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at +Cantonment Leavenworth, the frontier post of the United States; where he +arrived on the 27th of September. + +Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed +boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were +hailed by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what +appeared to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck +Baptiste with such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy +at the top of his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not +Wyeth assured him of his safety. When they underwent the operation +of the lancet, the doctor's wife and another lady were present; both +beautiful women. They were the first white women that they had seen, and +they could not keep their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat, +they recounted to their companions all that they had observed at the +fort; but were especially eloquent about the white squaws, who, they +said, were white as snow, and more beautiful than any human being they +had ever beheld. + +We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will +simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in +organizing an association under the name of "The Columbia River Fishing +and Trading Company," for his original objects of a salmon fishery and +a trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the +Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at +the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom +were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the +wilderness than his first band of "down-easters." + +We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left, +making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley. + + + + +42. + + Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia--Advance of + Wyeth--Efforts to keep the lead--Hudson's Bay party--A + junketing--A delectable beverage--Honey and alcohol--High + carousing--The Canadian "bon vivant"--A cache--A rapid move + Wyeth and his plans--His travelling companions--Buffalo + hunting More conviviality--An interruption. + +IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second +visit to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He +travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July +a scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in +the rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle +in the camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to +secure provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden +to travel fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive +all superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of +the earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two +miles further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line +of horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and +encamped close by. + +It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, +under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders, +who, with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are +employed to follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to +another, and buy up their peltries. + +Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson's Bay Company, the +captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening +regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in +these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon +made, that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a +midsummer banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was +abundance of such hunters' fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it +was all discussed with mountain appetites. They talked over all the +events of their late campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been +unlucky in some of his transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy. +Captain Bonneville remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had +no juice of the grape to keep it down. + +A man's wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a +thought suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable +beverage. Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted. +This he filled up with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous +ingredients together. The glorious results may readily be imagined; +a happy compound of strength and sweetness, enough to soothe the most +ruffled temper and unsettle the most solid understanding. + +The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first +deep draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the +second elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon +companion; as all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became +glorious; talked over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings +with Indian braves, his loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old +French ditties, and Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang +louder and louder; until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety, +he gradually declined, and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground. +After a long nap he again raised his head, imbibed another potation of +the "sweet and strong," flashed up with another slight blaze of French +gayety, and again fell asleep. + +The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and +sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and +calling to mind the captain's dulcet compound, with many a retch and +spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly +and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and +that he had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless +and woebegone was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march +without him; the captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after +part of the day. + +As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville's men proceeded +to construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the +party of Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity +to take the road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being +lightened of a great part of their burdens, were able to move with +celerity. As to the worthy convive of the preceding evening, he was +carefully gathered up from the hunter's couch on which he lay, repentant +and supine, and, being packed upon one of the horses, was hurried +forward with the convoy, groaning and ejaculating at every jolt. + +In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of +his party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly +and courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes +since they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his +intention of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the +Portneuf, and leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to +trade with the neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this +measure, in consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company +to take a supply of goods which he had brought out for them according +to contract; and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further +informed Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky +Mountain and American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious +stratagems and deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the +country between them, allotting boundaries within which each was to +trade and hunt, so as not to interfere with the other. + +In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall, +the botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the +expedition to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these +gentlemen we may look forward to important information concerning these +interesting regions. There were three religious missionaries, also, +bound to the shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel +in that far wilderness. + +After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth +returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press +forward, and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and +moralizing chief of the Hudson's Bay Company, under a proper escort, to +rejoin his people; his route branching off in a different direction. +The latter took a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future +occasion, to repay his hospitality in kind. + +In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts +out far ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had +confidently expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of +the Portneuf; but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen. + +At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the +head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly +grazing in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report +his discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably +entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to +his own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o'clock of the +same morning, Captain Bonneville's party were in the midst of the game. + +The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners, +mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others +of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for +jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same +purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing +in the choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the +scaffolds, and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and +activity. At daylight the next morning, the runners again took the +field, with similar success; and, after an interval of repose made their +third and last chase, about twelve o'clock; for by this time, Wyeth's +party was in sight. The game being now driven into a valley, at some +distance, Wyeth was obliged to fix his camp there; but he came in the +evening to pay Captain Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain +Stewart, the amateur traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for +the adventurous life of the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M'Kay, +a half-breed; son of the unfortunate adventurer of the same name who +came out in the first maritime expedition to Astoria and was blown up +in the Tonquin. His son had grown up in the employ of the British fur +companies; and was a prime hunter, and a daring partisan. He held, +moreover, a farm in the valley of the Wallamut. + +The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville's camp, were +surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party +being dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present +chance for hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of +remaining with so trifling a guard in a region so full of danger. +Captain Bonneville vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never +hesitated to send out all his hunters, when any important object was to +be attained; and experience had taught him that he was most secure when +his forces were thus distributed over the surrounding country. He then +was sure that no enemy could approach, from any direction, without +being discovered by his hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the +slightest signs of the proximity of Indians; and who would instantly +convey intelligence to the camp. + +The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable +entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of +prime hunters' dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and +roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in +hunters' style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful +hunting ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the +puny gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian +grace to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his +mellifluous keg of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over +the senses of the veteran of Hudson's Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again +went round; never did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more +rapturous commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that +happy state which would have insured ample cause for the next day's +repentance; and the bees were already beginning to buzz about their +ears, when a messenger came spurring to the camp with intelligence that +Wyeth's people had got entangled in one of those deep and frightful +ravines, piled with immense fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the +whole country about the head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel +was instantly at an end; the keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was +deserted; and the guests departed with all speed to aid in extricating +their companions from the volcanic ravine. + + + + +43. + + A rapid march--A cloud of dust--Wild horsemen--"High Jinks" + Horseracing and rifle-shooting--The game of hand--The + fishing season--Mode of fishing--Table lands--Salmon + fishers--The captain's visit to an Indian lodge--The Indian + girl--The pocket mirror--Supper--Troubles of an evil + conscience. + +"UP and away!" is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader, +when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the +morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed +upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered +buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the +Portneuf. His march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills, +broken into cliffs and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, +where the rocks rose like walls. + +On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and +as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring +hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great +cloud of dust rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening +back to the camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made +to receive an enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon +the "running horses" kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In +a little while, they made signals from a distance that all was friendly. +By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a +blast, and a band of wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the +camp, yelling and whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their +accoutrements, their mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made +them seem a party of savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be +principally half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness, +who were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson's +Bay Company. + +Here was again "high jinks" in the camp. Captain Bonneville's men hailed +these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game +birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of +mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual +details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals +of laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses +and rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to +racing, and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded +another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties, +fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take +place, when suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a +strange kind of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them +as a charm. Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded +and the ideas of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws +were turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking +their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting +amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the Far West. + +The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind +of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of "Hand." This is +played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing +fire. It is in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or +the button, and detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game, +the object hidden, or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a +small splint of wood, or other diminutive article that may be concealed +in the closed hand. This is passed backward and forward among the party +"in hand," while the party "out of hand" guess where it is concealed. To +heighten the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles +are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party "in +hand" beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the choral chant +already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as the game proceeds. As +large bets are staked upon the game, the excitement is prodigious. +Each party in turn bursts out in full chorus, beating, and yelling, and +working themselves up into such a heat that the perspiration rolls down +their naked shoulders, even in the cold of a winter night. The bets +are doubled and trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement +increases almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers +are often hazarded upon the position of a straw. + +These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire +glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic +orgies, and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding +day, had not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the +usual hour, issued his marching orders. + +Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly +returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet +scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was +now the season of the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these +parts celebrate the first appearance of the salmon in this river. These +fish are taken in great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet +pitch. The Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them +as they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a +sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and +forming an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening +is left for the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station +themselves on small rafts, and ply their spears with great success. + +The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil, +inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly +speaking, wormwood. Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven +occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches +the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs, difficult to +pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is impossible, for days +together, to get down to the water's edge, to give drink to the horses. +This obliges the traveller occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the +river, and make a wide sweep into the interior. + +It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely +from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were +extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the +edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the +travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly +shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of +the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool +current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after +the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant. + +At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly +five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with +groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in +great numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to +enable them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid +race, and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one +of the huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding +to cook a fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and +hung over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is +considered cooked. + +Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain +awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the +repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part. +While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him, +and turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes, +discovered a young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, +who directed her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to +gaze in mute surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her +fears, and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly +to tie it round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a +sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the +captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man, +succeed in conquering the shyness of the savage little beauty. His +attentions were now turned toward the parents, whom he presented with +an awl and a little tobacco, and having thus secured their good-will, +continued to smoke his pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated +near the threshold, an urchin of the family approached the door, but +catching a sight of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and +ensconced himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut. + +Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the +simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere +concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of +a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After +examining it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced +a musk-rat skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head; +but purchased the skin for a couple of buttons--superfluous trinkets! as +the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to +place them. + +The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in +the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and +a string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return; +but could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being +now completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous +portion was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some +fresh grass, which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted +a salmon boiled so completely to his fancy. + +Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to +his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils +so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs of +confusion and dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the +kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became easy and +communicative; and at length hinted something about exchanging beaver +skins for horses. The captain at once offered to dispose of his steed, +which stood fastened at the door. The bargain was soon concluded, +whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of bushes under which his +valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of skins agreed upon as +the price. + +Shortly afterward, some of the captain's people coming up, he ordered +another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from +the hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple +inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl +had kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking, +watching every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off, +remained gazing after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however, +delighted with his new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, +and followed in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a +faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood. + +The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct +of one of the captain's men, who had been in the California expedition. +During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place, +he had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled +freely and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless, +suspicious look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting +often at the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who +regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily +a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the +prospect of a battle. At length he requested permission of Captain +Bonneville to keep out of the way of these people entirely. Their +striking resemblance, he said, to the people of Ogden's River, made +him continually fear that some among them might have seen him in that +expedition; and might seek an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this, +while they remained in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way +and keep aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. "Such," +observed Captain Bonneville, "is the effect of self-reproach, even upon +the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little else to fear than +the stings of his own guilty conscience." + + + + +44. + + Outfit of a trapper--Risks to which he is subjected-- + Partnership of trappers--Enmity of Indians--Distant smoke--A + country on fire--Gun Greek--Grand Rond--Fine pastures-- + Perplexities in a smoky country--Conflagration of forests. + +IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along +Snake River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this +way a range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body. +The outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder, +and four pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe, +a hatchet, a knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where +supplies are plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two +or three horses, to carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two +trappers commonly go together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and +support; a larger party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians. +It is a service of peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for +the Indians, since they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries +with the traders, have learned the value of the beaver, and look +upon the trappers as poachers, who are filching the riches from their +streams, and interfering with their market. They make no hesitation, +therefore, to murder the solitary trapper, and thus destroy a +competitor, while they possess themselves of his spoils. It is +with regret we add, too, that this hostility has in many cases been +instigated by traders, desirous of injuring their rivals, but who have +themselves often reaped the fruits of the mischief they have sown. + +When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of +proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can +graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a +cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening, +and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at +daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch +the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up +before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior +style; the tail is the trapper's tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end +of a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than +the tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo. + +With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot +always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered, +perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen +curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages, +whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they +are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times, +they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps, +have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of +one of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time +to time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are +found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless +stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small +streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate +trappers that have been murdered on their banks. + +A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present +instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended; +for his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck +Indians were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great +distance, so that they would be apt to detect and cut off any +stragglers. It behooved him, also, to keep his party together, to guard +against any predatory attack upon the main body; he continued on his +way, therefore, without dividing his forces. And fortunate it was that +he did so; for in a little while he encountered one of the phenomena of +the western wilds that would effectually have prevented his scattered +people from finding each other again. In a word, it was the season of +setting fire to the prairies. As he advanced he began to perceive great +clouds of smoke at a distance, rising by degrees, and spreading over the +whole face of the country. The atmosphere became dry and surcharged +with murky vapor, parching to the skin, and irritating to the eyes. When +travelling among the hills, they could scarcely discern objects at the +distance of a few paces; indeed, the least exertion of the vision was +painful. There was evidently some vast conflagration in the direction +toward which they were proceeding; it was as yet at a great distance, +and during the day they could only see the smoke rising in larger and +denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense canopy. At night the +skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen fires, hanging in +an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon. + +Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left, +Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and +avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the +Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope +for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game +might be scarce. + +During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke +continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish +the face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the +travellers fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters +of the Fourche de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand +Rond. Here they found all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast +conflagration; which swept over the long grass in billows of flame, shot +up every bush and tree, rose in great columns from the groves, and set +up clouds of smoke that darkened the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of +fire, the travellers had to pursue their course close along the foot +of the mountains; but the irritation from the smoke continued to be +tormenting. + +The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into +broad and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain +springs and rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of +the Skynses, to pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the +salmon which abound in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in +great quantities and without the least difficulty; simply taking them +out of the water with their hands, as they flounder and struggle in +the numerous long shoals of the principal streams. At the time the +travellers passed over these prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams +by which they were intersected were completely choked with salmon, which +they took in great numbers. The wolves and bears frequent these streams +at this season, to avail themselves of these great fisheries. + +The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great +difficulties and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed +to embrace the whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the +time obscured by the smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from +view. Blundering along in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were +frequently obliged to make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they +could not perceive until close upon them. The Indian trails were their +safest guides, for though they sometimes appeared to lead them out of +their direct course, they always conducted them to the passes. + +On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River. +Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes +its way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable, +and appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce +language, an intercourse was easily kept up with them. + +In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped +for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses. +Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search +for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or +Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and +discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain +defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and +precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of +frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of +these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have +been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree, +from which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were +not the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration +of the country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was +still more awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames +which swept rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed +a fiercer character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and +ravines of the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up +sheets of flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that +in the night made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and +forests, too, which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns +of fire, and added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these +stupendous sights were combined the rushing blasts caused by the +rarefied air, which roared and howled through the narrow glens, and +whirled forth the smoke and flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon, +too, was heard the crash of falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags +and precipices, with tremendous sounds. + +In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and +blinding, that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only +find each other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way +through the yet burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and +trunks of trees, which frequently fell across their path. At length +they gave up the attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual +circumstances, and made their way back to the camp to report their +failure. + + + + +45. + + The Skynses--Their traffic--Hunting--Food--Horses--A horse- + race--Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and + Flatheads--Prayers--Exhortations--A preacher on horseback + Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes--A new + light. + +DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been +kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into +the neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of +the Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with +the Hudson's Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the +articles of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to +the trading posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal +traffic with the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep +in distant and unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture +near the trading houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally; +and depend, for a part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence, +however, is upon roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said +to be of a delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it +up in great quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter +provisions. It grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains. + +This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles +among them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of +Captain Bonneville's men; offering a couple of good running horses for +a light rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured +from them on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a +breed infinitely superior to any in the United States. They are fond of +trying their speed and bottom, and of betting upon them. + +As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit +of their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of +speed between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to +be well matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a +half out and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead +by a few hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the +Shoshonie and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they +went head and head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the +race with great ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over. + +The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong +devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some +of the resident personages of the Hudson's Bay Company. Sunday is +invariably kept sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their +camp on that day, unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither +will they hunt, nor fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on +that day. A part of it is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies. +Some chief, who is generally at the same time what is called a "medicine +man," assembles the community. After invoking blessings from the Deity, +he addresses the assemblage, exhorting them to good conduct; to be +diligent in providing for their families; to abstain from lying and +stealing; to avoid quarrelling or cheating in their play, and to be +just and hospitable to all strangers who may be among them. Prayers +and exhortations are also made, early in the morning, on week days. +Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from horseback; moving slowly +about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his exhortations with +a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen with profound +attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word in unison, +apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and exhortations +are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If an Indian +is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and attends with +reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his prayer +or exhortation, he says, "I have done," upon which there is a general +exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably derived +from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of their old +Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or ballad, +which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose. +Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the +Roman Catholic Church. + +Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor +savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and +effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not +merely from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from +that of Mr. Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the +Flatheads. "During the time I have been with them," says he, "I have +never known an instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to +a bead or pin, is brought to you, if found; and often, things that have +been thrown away. Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This +absence of all quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the +various occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the +crowding together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have +to be driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the +morning; the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty. +All this, however, is done without confusion or disturbance. + +"They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed +in their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one +speaks, the rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents +by 'yes,' or dissents by 'no;' and then states his reasons, which are +listened to with equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable +than any other children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor +any quarrelling; although there were, at least, five hundred of them +together, and continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit, +they are brave when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal +number of Blackfeet." + +The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative +to the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain +Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion, +in conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the +cultivation of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between +their peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes, +and attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He +frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always +enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed +that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present. + +The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable +degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead +them, Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain; +the country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the +raising of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling +assistance from government, to protect them from the predatory and +warlike tribes, might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the +midst of the great western wilderness, who would "wear the Americans +near their hearts." + +We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity +of this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all +ardently addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar +day for recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of +season. After prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an +hour in the day, says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several +horses racing at full speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups +of gamblers, ready to stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of +hand. The Indians, says Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with +more zest than the whites. They are great gamblers; and in proportion to +their means, play bolder and bet higher than white men. + +The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the +savages, has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more +knowing traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them +by being considered "medicine men;" that is, men gifted with mysterious +knowledge. This feeling is also at times played upon by religious +charlatans, who are to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One +of these was noted by Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads. +A new great man, says he, is rising in the camp, who aims at power +and sway. He covers his designs under the ample cloak of religion; +inculcating some new doctrines and ceremonials among those who are more +simple than himself. He has already made proselytes of one-fifth of +the camp; beginning by working on the women, the children, and the +weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on the plain, to their own +vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe look on and laugh; +thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will soon find that +women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every community, +and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be +considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of +the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or +branches off and sets up an independent chief and "medicine man." + + + + +46. + + Scarcity in the camp--Refusal of supplies by the Hudson's + Bay Company--Conduct of the Indians--A hungry retreat--John + Day's River--The Blue Mountains--Salmon fishing on Snake + River Messengers from the Crow country--Bear River Valley-- + immense migration of buffalo--Danger of buffalo hunting--A + wounded Indian--Eutaw Indians--A "surround" of antelopes. + +PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville +found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore, +of his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing +a low range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais. +Being now within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of +the Hudson's Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither +to purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well +received at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily +refused. Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave +their present employ, and enter into the service of the company; but +they were not to be seduced. + +When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he +ordered an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He +pushed forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal +to the Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the +Wallah-Wallah. His route lay through a beautiful undulating country, +covered with horses belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for +pasturage. + +On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with +the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they +kept aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered +that they were under the influence of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had +forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded +along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of +provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length +obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people. +He now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and +beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a +little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble +valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance +under present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources +of the country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous +and powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely +hope to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any +longer in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and +cut off their retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to +reach the Blue Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the +bighorn; and after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they +might push through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by +snow. Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly +turned his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue +Mountains. He took his course up John Day's River, so called from one +of the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at +his heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of +October. He entered by the opening made by John Day's River; it was a +rugged and difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed +to hard scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had +extinguished the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the +mountains, no longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur +and sublimity to the eye. + +They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in +the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning +from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them. +It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to +keep the party from starvation. + +To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for +ten days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much +perplexity, they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following +the course of which, they were sure to reach their place of destination. + +It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon +this noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty +numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its +banks to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for +winter provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense +quantities of fish drying upon them. At this season of the year, +however, the salmon are extremely poor, and the travellers needed their +keen sauce of hunger to give them a relish. + +In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead +salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the +fetid odor of which tainted the air. + +It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf +that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the +buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days, +slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an +enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found +good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard +travelling. + +During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be +messengers sent express for supplies from Montero's party; which had +been sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter +on the Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but +that they had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission, +and were still in the Crow country, where they should remain until +joined by Captain Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the +messengers with him until the 17th of November, when, having reached the +caches on Bear River, and procured thence the required supplies, he sent +them back to their party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of +June following, on the forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country. + +He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having +discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased +from them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and +arranged with them to encamp together during the winter. + +The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the +upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it +as long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which +would be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but +slowly, merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his +position. The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow +lay to a considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried +meat as possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage +that could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to +move slowly toward their winter quarters. + +They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the +present winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the +buffaloes before the snow had become deep, immense herds now came +trooping over the mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from +which their deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and +mutterings from a gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke, +and down came the torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly +impossible, according to Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the +effect produced by the sight of such countless throngs of animals of +such bulk and spirit, all rushing forward as if swept on by a whirlwind. + +The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor +to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party, +finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without +either rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was +passing close by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such +lucky aim as to bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but +hunger had made him almost desperate. + +The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded +in particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a +bull produces no other effect than a toss of the head and greater +exasperation; on the contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow +is fatal. Several instances occurred during this great hunting bout, +of bulls fighting furiously after having received mortal wounds. +Wyeth, also, was witness to an instance of the kind while encamped +with Indians. During a grand hunt of the buffaloes, one of the Indians +pressed a bull so closely that the animal turned suddenly on him. His +horse stopped short, or started back, and threw him. Before he could +rise the bull rushed furiously upon him, and gored him in the chest so +that his breath came out at the aperture. He was conveyed back to the +camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself up for slain, he called +round him his friends, and made his will by word of mouth. It was +something like a death chant, and at the end of every sentence those +around responded in concord. He appeared no ways intimidated by the +approach of death. "I think," adds Wyeth, "the Indians die better than +the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the future." + +The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the +leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and +move off from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles +distant. + +The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now +snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the +winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual +carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of +the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with +the appetite of a hunting camp. + +The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer. +These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as +the winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the +report of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering +in the air, no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of +the wolves would peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the +hunter's departure to pounce upon the carcass. + +Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the +valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a +band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They +are a poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these +regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root +Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few +rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows. + +As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of +old grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was +feared some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore, +undertook the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs, +inviting them to a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a +reconciliation. His invitation was proudly declined; whereupon he +went to them in person, and succeeded in effecting a suspension of +hostilities until the chiefs of the two tribes could meet in +council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly acquiesced in the +arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill tops, and watch +their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain below, and +evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish. The +worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent +mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet +buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united +and mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would +occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows +would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the +chiefs wisely took no notice of these individual brawls. + +One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of +several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance. +This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in +ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin +of the antelope. It was determined to have "a surround," as the mode of +hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic +solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms +each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally +with the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of +animals which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries. +After much grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed +that all who were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should +muster for "the surround." When all had congregated, they moved in rude +procession to the nearest point of the valley in question, and there +halted. Another course of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians +are so fond, took place among the chiefs. Directions were then issued +for the horsemen to make a circuit of about seven miles, so as to +encompass the herd. When this was done, the whole mounted force dashed +off simultaneously, at full speed, shouting and yelling at the top of +their voices. In a short space of time the antelopes, started from +their hiding-places, came bounding from all points into the valley. The +riders, now gradually contracting their circle, brought them nearer and +nearer to the spot where the senior chief, surrounded by the elders, +male and female, were seated in supervision of the chase. The antelopes, +nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and bewildered by perpetual +whooping, made no effort to break through the ring of the hunters, but +ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and child beat them down +with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of antelope hunting, +technically called "a surround." + + + + +47. + + A festive winter--Conversion of the Shoshonies--Visit of two + free trappers--Gayety in the camp--A touch of the tender + passion--The reclaimed squaw--An Indian fine lady--An + elopement--A pursuit--Market value of a bad wife. + +GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was +overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches, +buffalo tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire; +and the whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast +meat. It was, indeed, a continual "feast of fat things," and though +there might be a lack of "wine upon the lees," yet we have shown that a +substitute was occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol. + +Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great +propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from +their good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but +then, they always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference +and respect, and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of +feats of activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward +each other, also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville +reason to hope that all past animosity was effectually buried. + +The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social +manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form. +The senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of +observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new +code of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended +their devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in +elevating the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined, +by the same means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their +ignorant rivals, the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and +promulgated among them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the +Nez Perces; recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were +struck with the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it +with spirit. They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have +their devotional dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about +which the ignorant Eutaws knew nothing; while they exerted their usual +competition in shooting and horseracing, and the renowned game of hand. + +Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley +community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free +trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds +as fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks' bells, +came galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp. + +They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company, +in the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of +Captain Bonneville's company a visit. An idea may be formed from the +scenes we have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the +manner in which these game birds were received by those of their +feather in the camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting, +what bragging, what ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and +squabbling and fighting, ensued among these boon companions. Captain +Bonneville, it is true, maintained always a certain degree of law and +order in his camp, and checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in +their seasons of idleness and relaxation require a degree of license and +indulgence, to repay them for the long privations and almost incredible +hardships of their periods of active service. + +In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender +passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among +the Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free +trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These +connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue +for years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free +trapper starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition. + +In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain +their belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their +protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all +that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race--whose gait, and +garb, and bravery he emulates--with all that is gallant and glorious +in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats her, the +finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves, the sway +she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the drudge +and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and build his +lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry blows. +No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the +wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave. + +With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. 'The +beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken +prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily +ransomed for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured +about the camp in fine array, "with rings on her fingers, and bells +on her toes," and a tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy, +admiration, and abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working +squaws of her acquaintance. + +As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become +the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of +older date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his +household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was +the wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his +eyes. All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the +very proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of +the trapper was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He +endeavored to prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His +horses were fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight +they would be beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment +in Green River Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at +defiance. + +The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease +and splendor of condition of a trapper's bride, and throbbed to be free +from the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the +failure of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted; +the Indian girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with +his thwarted passion. + +Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of +the Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his +lodge, with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At +night, as the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered +at the door of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She +was ready to follow whithersoever he should lead. + +In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift +of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up +and saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over +the snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of +escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse +before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and +prairies be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the +present, however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses +forward over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every +blast, they heard the yell of the pursuer. + +At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his +swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of +the fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds, +however, which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the +prints made by the horses' hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of +them, and was completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the +situation of the camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course +through the mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the +fugitives. Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his +course by day and night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It +was some time before the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had +they traversed the wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and +fatigue, and their horses faltering under them. The first object that +met their eyes on entering the camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed, +knife in hand, to plunge it in the heart that had proved false to him. +The trapper threw himself before the cowering form of his mistress, +and, exhausted as he was, prepared for a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie +paused. His habitual awe of the white man checked his arm; the trapper's +friends crowded to the spot, and arrested him. A parley ensued. A kind +of crim. con. adjudication took place; such as frequently occurs +in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared to be a fair +compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost her heart; +with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion. He +returned to Captain Bonneville's camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is true; +but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing that +two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife. + + + + +48. + + Breaking up of winter quarters--Move to Green River--A + trapper and his rifle--An arrival in camp--A free trapper + and his squaw in distress--Story of a Blackfoot belle. + +THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills, +and from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping +had arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who +brought away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April +(1835), the camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white +men and their allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many +regrets and sincere expressions of good-will; for their intercourse +throughout the winter had been of the most friendly kind. + +Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham's Fork, and reached the +Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they +remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were +conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their +vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant +precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such +dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle +even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he +takes it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him, +ready to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly +as a citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend +and protector. + +On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind +River Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to +give their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey; +for it was Captain Bonneville's intention to shape his course to the +settlements; having already been detained by the complication of his +duties, and by various losses and impediments, far beyond the time +specified in his leave of absence. + +While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River +Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and +accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty +hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had +abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper; +whom they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and +baggage, and an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate +prairie. The horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this +helpless pair, and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their +effects to the camp. + +The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress, +especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately +dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day +they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart +mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot +beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper's +bride. + +Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain +Bonneville entered into conversation with her, and obtained from +her many particulars concerning the habits and customs of her tribe; +especially their wars and huntings. They pride themselves upon being the +"best legs of the mountains," and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done +in spring time, when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The +heavy buffaloes then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily +overtaken by the Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the +surface. It is said, however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side +of the Rocky Mountains are fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic +side; those upon the plains of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by +a horse that would outstrip the same animal in the neighborhood of the +Platte, the usual hunting ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of +further conversation, Captain Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her +whole story; which gave a picture of savage life, and of the drudgery +and hardships to which an Indian wife is subject. + +"I was the wife," said she, "of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served +him faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well +provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed +water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat +cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay +him. I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the +trouble of speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs +and warriors smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things, +in secret; but my feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see +nothing but him. + +"When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I? +When he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered +without further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses; +tied them to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his +feet. If his moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which +were dry and warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase. +He could never say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the +antelope, and the buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else +was done by me. When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse +and rode away; free as though he had fallen from the skies. He had +nothing to do with the labor of the camp; it was I that packed the +horses and led them on the journey. When we halted in the evening, +and he sat with the other braves and smoked, it was I that pitched his +lodge; and when he came to eat and sleep, his supper and his bed were +ready. + +"I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on +his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his +wife. + +"Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how +I was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant +and fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother +was not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps +death. At length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the +village. He pointed away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in +peace among them. We parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the +Nez Perces before me. I paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on; +but my horse neighed, and I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to +gallop forward. In a little while I was in the midst of the lodges. As +I sat silent on my horse, the people gathered round me, and inquired +whence I came. I told my story. A chief now wrapped his blanket close +around him, and bade me dismount. I obeyed. He took my horse to lead him +away. My heart grew small within me. I felt, on parting with my horse, +as if my last friend was gone. I had no words, and my eyes were dry. As +he led off my horse a young brave stepped forward. 'Are you a chief of +the people?' cried he. 'Do we listen to you in council, and follow +you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp from the dogs of +Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your face! The stranger +is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a warrior at her +side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse. But he is +yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!'--his bow was +drawn, and the arrow ready!--'you never shall cross his back!' The arrow +pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead. + +"An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my +heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears; +like the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the +days passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in +praise of the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace. + +"A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for +his wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and +I have taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this +way, some of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses +of the party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The +guns were laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white +men attempted to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began. +The snow was deep, the white men sank into it at every step; but the +red men, with their snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and +drove off many of the horses in sight of their owners. With those that +remained we resumed our journey. At length words took place between the +leader of the party and my husband. He took away our horses, which had +escaped in the battle, and turned us from his camp. My husband had one +good friend among the trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had +asked assistance for them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he +came in from hunting, and found that we had been driven away, he gave up +all his wages, and followed us, that he might speak good words for us to +the white captain." + + + + +49. + + Rendezvous at Wind River--Campaign of Montero and his + brigade in the Crow country--Wars between the Crows and + Blackfeet--Death--of Arapooish--Blackfeet lurkers--Sagacity + of the horse--Dependence of the hunter on his horse--Return + to the settlements. + +ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the +forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he +was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the +preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to +the Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions; +after trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder +River. Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated +him with unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter +quarters among them. + +The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their +old enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the +flower of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest, +Arapooish, the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous +chief had beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in +his tribe, and that it was declining in force, and must eventually +be destroyed unless some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its +fortunes. In a pitched battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his +warriors, urging them to set everything at hazard in one furious charge; +which done, he led the way into the thickest of the foe. He was +soon separated from his men, and fell covered with wounds, but his +self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet were defeated; and +from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and were frequently +successful. + +Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that +the Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters +came galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy +was at hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed +out in squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the +midst of a plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage +of numbers, and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the +Blackfeet were slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of +willows, where the horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows +vigorously. + +The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and +bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best +mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then +advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which +the tribe is noted. When within an arrow's flight of the thicket, he +loosened his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the +opposite side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe; +in this way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows +from under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle, +he wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions, +who received him with yells of applause. + +Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet +were not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared +to drive desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt +the thicket. Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned +all-glorious with the scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts +and triumphs, the scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies, +and all the other fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves +had finished with the scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women +and children, and made the objects of new parades and dances. They were +then treasured up as invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves +who had won them. + +It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through +policy or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The +warrior who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such +case, the war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down, +and the shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and +abandoned to the triumph and insults of the million. + +To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape +from the extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be +oppressive, Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their +camps, and there formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a +vigilant watch at night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze +during the day, under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut +up in strong pens, built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during +a portion of the winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find +but little sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above +the snow; but they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender +branches of the trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the +first moments of freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in +frisking and gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work, +to glean their scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men +stripped the bark of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the +poor horses would return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air, +the moment they saw their owners approaching them with blankets filled +with cotton-wood bark, their whole demeanor underwent a change. A +universal neighing and capering took place; they would rush forward, +smell to the blankets, paw the earth, snort, whinny and prance round +with head and tail erect, until the blankets were opened, and the +welcome provender spread before them. These evidences of intelligence +and gladness were frequently recounted by the trappers as proving the +sagacity of the animal. + +These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some +respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced +trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times +of peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the +horses. No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their +notice, and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said, +will even indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the +danger threatens. + +In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting +up the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse +as a sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him, +and by his starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of +strangers. There seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of +fraternal sympathy between the hunter and his horse. They mutually +rely upon each other for company and protection; and nothing is more +difficult, it is said, than to surprise an experienced hunter on the +prairie while his old and favorite steed is at his side. + +Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows, +and fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders +discovered his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a +vigilant watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who, +at length, seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the +neighborhood. The trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one +night, after a day of severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole +camp was soon asleep. Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers +were roused by the trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole +party were immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars +were down; but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being +all found hard by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through +negligence. All were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was +a second alarm, and it was discovered that several horses were missing. +The rest were mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that +eighteen of the number carried off were regained, and but three remained +in possession of the enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about +the camp the preceding day. In the morning it was discovered that a +Blackfoot was entrapped by one of them, but had succeeded in dragging +it off. His trail was followed for a long distance which he must have +limped alone. At length he appeared to have fallen in with some of his +comrades, who had relieved him from his painful encumbrance. + +These were the leading incidents of Montero's campaign in the Crow +country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough +hunters' style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville +made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers +to open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue +of his men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not +detail his journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point +to point of the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier +settlements on the 22d of August. + +Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken +for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged +almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during +three years of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous +town, however, produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample +brim and longest nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and +pantaloons of the most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn +trapper's equipments; and the happy wearers might be seen strolling +about in all directions, scattering their silver like sailors just from +a cruise. + +The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the +excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged +resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back +to the wilderness with regret. "Though the prospect," says he, "of once +more tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and +nights under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its +attractions; yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in +the stirring excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in +the wilderness, the change was far from promising an increase of that +contentment and inward satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who, +like myself, has roved almost from boyhood among the children of the +forest, and over the unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western +wastes, will not be startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the +fascinations of the world on this civilized side of the mountains, I +would fain make my bow to the splendors and gayeties of the metropolis, +and plunge again amidst the hardships and perils of the wilderness." + +We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been +satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually +in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may +meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of +collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds +and their motley inhabitants. + +We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild +inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have +been anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular +state of things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great +changes, if not entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has +given life to all this portraiture, is essentially evanescent. +Rival parties of trappers soon exhaust the streams, especially when +competition renders them heedless and wasteful of the beaver. The +furbearing animals extinct, a complete change will come over the scene; +the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out in wild array, and +tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war chief, plumed and +painted and ever on the prowl; the traders' cavalcade, winding through +defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party lurking on its +trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse in the +midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the fierce +skirmish among rocks and cliffs--all this romance of savage life, which +yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in frontier story, +and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale. + +Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed +among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite, +perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain +of mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either +side, are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which +prevails there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under +the aridity of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes. +An immense belt of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several +hundred miles in width, must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness, +intervening between the abodes of civilization, and affording a last +refuge to the Indian. Here roving tribes of hunters, living in tents +or lodges, and following the migrations of the game, may lead a life of +savage independence, where there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the +white man. The amalgamation of various tribes, and of white men of every +nation, will in time produce hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of +the Caucasus. Possessed as they are of immense droves of horses should +they continue their present predatory and warlike habits, they may in +time become a scourge to the civilized frontiers on either side of the +mountains, as they are at present a terror to the traveller and trader. + +The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of +establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders +in their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the +outposts into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid +open, so as to maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put +an end to the kind of "blackmail," levied on all occasions by the savage +"chivalry of the mountains." + + + + +Appendix + +Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West + +WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western +campaigning; yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some +particulars concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth; +anecdotes of whose enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in +the party-colored web of our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of +establishing a trading post on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall. +Here, for the first time, the American flag was unfurled to the breeze +that sweeps the great naked wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving +twelve men here, with a stock of goods, to trade with the neighboring +tribes, he prosecuted his journey to the Columbia; where he established +another post, called Fort Williams, on Wappatoo Island, at the mouth +of the Wallamut. This was to be the head factory of his company; whence +they were to carry on their fishing and trapping operations, and their +trade with the interior; and where they were to receive and dispatch +their annual ship. + +The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had +observed that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free +trappers, as well as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for +their supplies upon goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence +of the expenses and risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them +at an immense advance on first cost. He had an idea that they might be +much more cheaply supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost +much less on the borders of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the +transportation by land was much shorter; and through a country much more +safe from the hostility of savage tribes; which, on the route from and +to St. Louis, annually cost the lives of many men. On this idea, he +grounded his plan. He combined the salmon fishery with the fur trade. A +fortified trading post was to be established on the Columbia, to carry +on a trade with the natives for salmon and peltries, and to fish and +trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship was to come from the +United States, to bring out goods for the interior trade, and to take +home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part of the goods, +thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to supply the +trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their furs; +which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in +the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The +profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses +of the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home, +would cost nothing as to freight. + +His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and +perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met +with, prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to +conceive, and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had +once more reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria; +and had he been enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly +effected, he might have regained for his country the opulent trade of +the Columbia, of which our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be +dispossessed. + +It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and +cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such +as all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea +and land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital +to enable him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold +on until success had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous +experiments. + +It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled +to dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson's +Bay Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own +account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great +fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still +maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the +Columbia and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered +powers permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr. +Astor, when he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. +From their emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every +direction, to supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and +to trap upon the various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse +the plains, penetrate to the heart of the mountains, extend their +enterprises northward, to the Russian possessions, and southward, to the +confines of California. Their yearly supplies are received by sea, at +Vancouver; and thence their furs and peltries are shipped to London. +They likewise maintain a considerable commerce, in wheat and +lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north, with the Russian +settlements. + +Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in +the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance; +yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight, +and subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish +a monopoly of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are +adroitly proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by +securing all the strong points of the country. + +Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of +the main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept +up as a fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to +shipping have been taken possession of, and posts recently established +at them by the company. + +The great capital of this association; their long established system; +their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal +organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a +machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians, +give them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely +the latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until +the question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries. +The sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious +to national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and +every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it. + +The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the +Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country. +Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being +rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower +country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give +sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great +population of graziers and agriculturists. + +Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which +the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here, +the company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its +superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is +about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The +climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while +the soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri +lands. The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated +for a great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for +the mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature, +that grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out +to pasture during the winter. + +These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future +settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the +embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present +they lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and +trapper, present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful +agriculturists and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem +with waving crops, or be covered with flocks and herds. + +The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company +restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the +hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would +be brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of +Mr. Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire. + + + + +Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast + +THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr. +Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as +to the manner in which America has been peopled. + +"Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese +junk was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen +Charlotte's Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced +by starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were +killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson's +Bay Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at +Vancouver, in 1834." + + + + +Instructions to Captain Bonneville + +from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States. + +Copy + +Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831. + +Sir, + +The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling +you to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the +Rocky Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and +character of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the +trade which might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the +soil, the productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate, +the Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts +of the Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the +United States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly +considered, and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has +been sanctioned. + +You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October +1833. + +It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in +reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with +yourself, and all that you required was the permission from the proper +authority to undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing +yourself for the expedition, provide suitable instruments, and +especially the best Maps of the interior to be found. It is desirable +besides what is enumerated as the object of enterprise that you note +particularly the number of Warriors that may belong to each tribe, or +nation that you may meet with: their alliances with other tribes and +their relative position as to a state of peace or war, and whether their +friendly or warlike dispositions towards each other are recent or of +long standing. You will gratify us by describing the manner of their +making War, of the mode of subsisting themselves during a state of war, +and a state of peace, their Arms, and the effect of them, whether they +act on foot or on horse back, detailing the discipline, and manuvers +of the war parties, the power of their horses, size and general +discription; in short any information which you may conceive would be +useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of every opportunity +of informing us of your position and progress, and at the expiration of +your leave of absence will join your proper station. + +I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St + +(Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg + +To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by +Washington Irving + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN *** + +***** This file should be named 1372.txt or 1372.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/7/1372/ + +Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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