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diff --git a/old/13051.txt b/old/13051.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d09f97 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13051.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2227 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs, by +J. M. W. Silver + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs + +Author: J. M. W. Silver + +Release Date: July 29, 2004 [eBook #13051] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +E-text prepared by Doshisha University, Michael Ciesielski, Sandra Brown, +and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original lovely illustrations. + See 13051-h.htm or 13051-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h/13051-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h.zip) + + + + + +SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + +by + +J. M. W. SILVER +Lieutenant Royal Marines, Light Infantry +(Late of the Royal Marine Battalion for Service in Japan) + +Illustrated by Native Drawings, +Reproduced in Fac-Simile by Means of Chromo-Lithography. + +LONDON + +1867 + + + + + + +[Illustration: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs] + + + + +TO + +COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX, BART. + +DEAR SIR EDMUND, + +These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs' were collected +during the years 1864-5, at which time I was attached to the Battalion +of Royal Marines for service in Japan, and it is now very pleasing to +have the privilege of dedicating them to one who was the friend and +companion-in-arms of my late Father. + +In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful acknowledgment +of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this Dedication of my humble +efforts to assist in the elucidation of the social condition of a +distant and comparatively unknown race, affords me deep gratification. + + With much respect and esteem, I am, + Dear Sir Edmund, + Very faithfully yours, + J. M. W. SILVER. + + +Royal Marine Barracks, Forton, +January 29th, 1867. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + I. FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS + + II. FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + III. DOMESTIC LIFE + + IV. THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY + + V. THE COURT OF THE MIKADO + + VI. THE 'HARA KIRU' + + VII. NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS + +VIII. CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS + + IX. SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES + + X. ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES + + XI. THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE + + XII. LOVE OF FLOWERS + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +TITLE. + +FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN. + +MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL. + +OTINTA LAMA. + +A FIRE-BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE. + +A JAPANESE WEDDING. + +A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT. + +A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS. + +A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION. + +THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE. + +LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE. + +THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE. + +THE SACRIFICE. + +A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL. + +CREMATION OF THE BODY. + +RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES. + +PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO. + +INTERIOR OF A THEATRE. + +MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION. + +LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE. + +EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY. + +SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION. + +PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY. + +SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES. + +A BAKER'S SHOP. + +A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING. + +UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE. + +A FLOWER SHOW. + + + + +[Illustration: FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN.] + +[Illustration: MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL.] + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS. + + +The first feature of Japanese life that prominently presents itself to +the notice of the stranger, is the number of festivals and holidays +held in honour of the various deities, warriors, and sages, or in +accordance with some ancient custom of the county, which is as +paramount an authority as the most stringent of its laws. Of these +festivals, the 'Oki-don-tako,' or 'Great Holiday,' which takes place +about Christmas, and lasts a fortnight, is the most important. +Previous to its celebration, it is customary with the people to settle +accounts, and amicably adjust any quarrels or estrangements that may +happen to exist; and they evince the same spirit that actuates +Christian nations at this season, by a general interchange of presents +and complimentary visits with their friends and acquaintance. So +anxious are the merchants to take this opportunity of settling with +their creditors, that, when the dealers have deficiencies to make up, +articles are frequently pressed on foreign residents at the Treaty +Ports at prices previously refused. + +The 'Gogata Seku,' the emblems of which form the first subject of +illustration, is also a festival of great importance: it takes place +about the middle of June, which is the fifth month of the Japanese +calendar, from which it derives its designation, and is kept up with +more than ordinary spirit during the three days of its continuance. It +is held in commemoration of Gongen Sama, the great general to whom +the present dynasty owes its existence; and the Japanese date their +births from this festival, even if born the day after its last +celebration. + +It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge aerial +fishes, in imitation of the 'koi,' or 'carp;' large crimson streamers, +representations of Gongen Sama crushing a demon; and the heads and +tails of crayfish, with which they decorate their dishes and the +entrances of their houses. The floating fish flag is hoisted over +every house in which a boy has been born during the preceding twelve +months, and is emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or +'carp,' which is very plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and +rivers, surmounting all obstacles in its way, and rendering itself by +its fecundity and edible qualities useful to the whole country, so the +child is to make his way through life, boldly fulfilling his destiny, +and proving himself a useful and beneficial member of the community. +In the same way, the scarlet streamer indicates the birth of a female +child, and the domestic nature of her duties. The crayfish are used to +remind the people of their humble origin (it being traditionary that +the empire originated from a race of poor fishermen), and the +consequent necessity of humility, temperance, and frugality, in their +different stations in life.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese letters +is an exhortation to the same effect.] + +Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival: he is +considered the especial champion of women, for whose protection he +instituted several laws and regulations; among others, making it +obligatory on them to blacken their teeth on entering into the married +state. He is believed to be able to charm away fevers, to alleviate +suffering, and to prevent the lives of his _protegees_ from being +embittered by jealousy. During the celebration of this festival the +whole country presents an extraordinary appearance; aerial fishes, +streamers, and bamboo decorations, meet the eye in every direction; +and the people in gala costume which is always worn on holidays, +greatly enhance the brilliancy of the scene. + +The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but there is +little difference in the material, the dress of every class being +regulated by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and purples predominate +in winter, the lighter and more varied colours being generally +confined to materials only adapted for summer use. The ladies have a +great partiality for crimson crape, which is generally worn as an +under-robe, and peeps daintily out at the bottom of the dress, and at +the wide open sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with the +girdle, at the back of which it is allowed to droop in full, graceful +folds. The men do not affect such bright colours as the women and +children, although their robes are often fantastically embroidered +with various strange devices, such as shell-fish, frogs, flowers and +landscapes, some of which are beautifully worked. + +[Illustration: Mother and Child.(From Photograph.)] + +The whole populace on these occasions seem determined to enjoy +themselves; the air of good-natured contentment, which characterises +them at all times, taking a more exuberant tone as they stroll about +the streets, visit in family parties, or make excursions to the +neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly domestic in their tastes and +habits, it is a pleasing sight to watch the family groups. Here a +grand-dame is carefully assisted along by her son and daughter-in-law, +preceded by chattering grandchildren in the gayest of dresses, tugging +at extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of his house, +nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admiration of +sympathizing friends another infant--probably one of the unconscious +objects of all this rejoicing. + +Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on these +festivals and holidays, they rarely become quarrelsome. It is, +however, by no means unusual for them to keep in a state of +intoxication for days; alleging this, with perfect _sang froid_, as an +excuse for any neglected promise or unfinished job. + +The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is only +celebrated in the principal towns, takes place about the middle of +July, and may be considered to be an exhibition of the different +trades, as the merchants and craftsmen of the country show the +choicest specimens of their wares and handicraft in a kind of trades' +procession. Like all the rest of their festivals it has a religious +signification, the people believing that misfortunes in business are +warded off by it. Upwards of five hundred trade trophies figure in one +of these processions, the imposing nature of which may be imagined +from the gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses depicted in the +illustration. The car in the foreground bears the trophy of the +wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of the most lucrative in Japan, +as the Japanese not only perpetuate their celebrities by wax-work +effigies, but the majority of the people, being professors of the +Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of the same material, called +'Kamis,' which are supposed to intercede on their behalf with the +Supreme Being. And this is in addition to regular wax-work +exhibitions, which are very popular, and the sale of toys which are +hawked about the country by travelling dealers. + +[Illustration: Travelling Merchant (Native Drawing.)] + +[Illustration: OTINTA LAMA.] + +The merchants have a general right of _entree_ to all parts of the +town on these occasions. In the illustration, the procession is +passing through the official quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace +forming the subject of the background. They halt from time to time in +their progress, which is enlivened by songs descriptive of their +various callings, and the beating of huge drums, and blowing of +strange discordant instruments. There is a kind of analogy between our +industrial exhibitions and these festivals; and, whatever the purpose +may be for which they were originated, it is plain that they admirably +represent the industry, wealth, and resources of the country. + +'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is laughed at by some, and +believed by others to inhabit certain miniature temples, which are +crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as that bird is supposed to +be his favourite incarnation. On holidays and festivals, his temples +are frequently carried about on the shoulders of his votaries, who are +generally the most ignorant and superstitious of the people. This is +always a subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who crowd round +the temples and oppose their progress, and indulge in witticisms at +the expense of the divinity and his bearers. This sometimes leads to a +disturbance, but only when the parties concerned have been indulging +too freely in their favourite saki. + +[Illustration: Saki-drunk. (Native drawing.)] + +The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in times of +drought or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case being brought +out and exposed to the sun, and in the other sprinkled with water, by +way of intimating the immediate necessity for his good offices. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + +Fires are necessarily frequent, as the majority of the houses are +constructed of wood; and such dangerous articles as paper-lanterns, +small charcoal fire-boxes, and movable open stoves, for household +purposes, are in common use. The candles burnt in the paper-lanterns +render them extremely dangerous, as they are fixed by a socket inside +the lower end of the candle, which fits on a peg in the +lantern--generally very loosely; and as they flare a great deal, very +little wind or motion will cause a conflagration. Fires are, mostly +attributed, however, to the 'chebache,' or small charcoal fire-box, +which is used for smoking purposes. It is placed on a small stand in +the middle of the thickly-matted rooms, the smokers sitting round +drinking saki, and occasionally filling their small pipes. Their +method of smoking, like all the rest of their habits, is remarkably +peculiar; for, after inhaling a few whiffs, the smoker invariably +knocks out the half-consumed remnant on the 'chebache,' and, presently +refilling, commences another pipe, and so on, two or three times in +succession, rarely troubling himself about the ashes of the last, +which the slightest current of air may carry unperceived to smoulder +in the combustible flooring. + +[Illustration: A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE.] + +Fires occur frequently, notwithstanding the great precautions which +are taken for their prevention. Town and country are divided into +districts, for which certain of the inhabitants are responsible. Each +of these has its alarum, with observatory and regular watchers; while +every guard-house is provided with a supply of ladders, buckets, and +other necessary implements. Whenever a gale is coming on, the +'Yoshongyee and Kanabo,' or 'watch and fire look-outs,' who on +ordinary occasions only go their rounds by night, parade the towns +with rattles and clanking iron instruments, as a warning to the people +to keep their fires low. + +They have numerous fire-brigades, which are well organized, and +remarkably efficient. In the illustration one of them is seen hurrying +along the street to the place of action. On the right, a watchman is +striking an alarum, and another may be noticed, half-way up an +observatory in the distance, pointing out the direction of the fire. +The white building on the other side of the street is a fire-proof +storehouse, in which the public documents and valuables of the +district are deposited whenever a fire breaks out in it. + +[Illustration: Yoshongyee and Kanabo. (Native drawing.)] + +A Japanese 'Shecase,' or fire-brigade, passing silently along the +streets, lighted by its weird red-and-black distinguishing lanterns, +is a strange sight. Some of its members wear armour, with helmets and +black-lacquered iron visors, and carry 'martoe,' or 'fire-charms,' and +various necessary implements; others are clad in head-and-shoulder +pieces and gauntlets of light chain-armour, to protect them while +pulling down and unroofing houses, which is their especial duty. All +have a regular fire costume, from the 'Oki Yaconin,' or 'head man,' to +the bare-legged coolie, who carries the badge of the brigade in large +red characters on his back. On arriving at a fire, a _point de tete_ +is selected--generally a house, on the roof of which the fire-charms +are immediately fixed, as if to forbid its further advance. These +charms (the circular white objects with black mouldings) have, of +course, as little effect on one element as Canute's celebrated +command had on another; but the people put such faith in their virtue +that their presence is a powerful auxiliary in prescribing the limits +of fires, which are rarely allowed to pass the bounds marked out by +them. The firemen fight with the flames as they close on the charms, +like men determined to stand by their colours to the last, rushing +into the burning houses, pulling them down, and drenching the blazing +thatch, with great courage and endurance. When, by thus putting their +shoulder to the wheel, the fire is fairly subdued, they turn round and +point exultingly to the martoe as the Hercules that has procured the +result. On one occasion, at a fire in the village of Omura, adjoining +Yokahama, the charms and their supporters were actually licked by the +flames from the house opposite to that on which they were fixed, whose +thatched roof was pulled off while in a state of rampant ignition by +fire-coolies, who with bare hands, and no other protection than their +saturated clothing, fought with the actual fire. One plucky fellow +fell through the roof while thus employed, and, as the spectators +still shuddered at his anticipated fate, rushed out apparently +uninjured, and, re-ascending, resumed his fiery task with unabated +vigour. Although the fire-charms were triumphant on this occasion, +they did not escape unscorched, and several engines had to be kept in +constant play upon them and their supporters, to prevent the one from +ignition, and the other from being baked in their armour like crabs in +their shells. + +The engines in present use are made of wood, and, though simple, are +efficient in damping the roofs of houses (which, being tiled with thin +squares of wood, are very inflammable), putting out embers, and +playing upon the firemen, who, as already indicated, prefer being +stewed to being roasted. The Japanese, however, are thoroughly aware +of the superiority of our engines, which will probably soon take the +place of their own, as the people are singularly quick in availing +themselves of anything useful. + +The townspeople generally calculate on being burnt out once in every +seven years, and whenever this calamity falls upon them, no time is +lost in rebuilding. For instance, in December, 1864, a fragment of +blazing wood, from a fire which destroyed the United Service Club at +Yokohama, was blown across to the village of Omura before alluded to, +which was half burnt down, greatly endangering the General Small-Pox +Hospital and the huts of the Royal Marine Battalion in its rear. But +early next morning, while the embers of the old houses were still +smoking, new ones were in course of erection, and before night some of +the industrious occupants were fairly roofed in afresh.[2] + +[Footnote 2: As an illustration of the spirit which characterises +British merchants in their intercourse with the Japanese, it may be +mentioned that a liberal subscription was promptly got up for the +re-establishment of these burnt-out villagers; but, although the +Japanese Government seemed thoroughly to appreciate the kindly spirit +in which it was offered, national pride came in the way of its +acceptance, and the people were only induced to waive their objection +on its being urgently pressed upon them that the fire which destroyed +the Foreigners' Club was the cause of the calamity.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DOMESTIC LIFE. + + +It is impossible to mark the even and peaceable tenor of Japanese +life, the politeness, industry, respect for superiors, and general air +of cheerfulness and content, that pervades all classes, without +admiration of the wise regulations which preserve such order amongst +them as a people. Quarrels and blows are almost unknown in families; +the husband is gentle, the wife exemplary and affectionate, and the +children singularly obedient and reverent to their parents: yet 'Spare +the rod and spoil the child' is a precept totally disregarded. The +children are never beaten, nor do the parents allow themselves to lose +their tempers in rebuking them, however great the provocation may +be--one remarkable result of the complete self-abnegation inculcated +by their social system. + +[Illustration: A JAPANESE WEDDING.] + +The relative position of father and son is very striking. From an +early age the latter enjoys the entire confidence of the former, who +not only treats him as a grown-up person, but frequently refers +disputed matters to his arbitration, invariably abiding by his +decision. Again, on a son's arriving at manhood, the parents often +resign their property in his favour, relying on him, with a confidence +rarely misplaced, for maintenance during the remainder of their lives; +and so sacred is this trust considered, that in case of the son's +demise it devolves indisputably on his wife and children. So far, what +could be more promising? But, alas! like everything else, Japanese +life has a dark side, and in this case it consists of a repulsive +custom, which permits indigent parents to sell their daughters for a +term of years into a state of bondage, for purposes of the most +degrading nature. This possibility more than counterbalances all the +brighter features of their domestic economy. Generally speaking, when +young girls find themselves a burden to their parents, they seek +employment in the tea-houses, where they are well looked after and +instructed in various accomplishments, for which they serve a certain +apprenticeship, and at its expiration generally marry, as girls so +educated are eagerly sought after. + +There are two forms of marriage, either of which is legally binding. +One is a religious, and the other a civil contract, not very +dissimilar from our marriage by the registrar, saving that the bride's +parents sign for her. Whichever form is used, the parents receive a +sum of money from the bridegroom; but in neither case is the husband +supposed to see the face of his bride until all due formalities have +been performed. The religious ceremony takes place in a temple: the +pair, after listening to a lengthy harangue from one of the attendant +priests, approach the altar, where large tapers are presented to them; +the bride, instructed by the priest, lights her taper at the sacred +censer on the altar, and the bridegroom, igniting his from hers, +allows the two flames to combine, and burn steadily together, thus +symbolizing the perfect unity of the marriage state; and this +completes the ceremonial. + +The illustration represents the private ratification of the civil +contract, which is a simple form, by which the parties take upon +themselves the respective duties of husband and wife. The veiled +figure in white is the 'hanna-yomie,' or 'bride,' in the act of +acknowledging the 'hanna-moko,' or 'bridegroom' (who sits opposite to +her in an official dress), by partaking of the nuptial saki. This +'saki,' or 'wine,' is prepared by two intimate female friends of the +bride, who first pour it into the gold and silver lacquer vessels on +the stand, which respectively represent the husband and wife, and +then, taking the vessels in hand, mix the contents in a cup, and +deliver it to the 'shewarin,' or 'master of the ceremonies,' who hands +it to the bride, and then to the bridegroom, and both partake of the +contents, which act constitutes the marriage. + +Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki they do not +attend on the bride. Such offices as are required are performed by a +married couple, the shewarin and his wife. It is they who make the +necessary arrangements, and provide the pheasants that appear in the +recess; which signify that the hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant, +will always jealously guard his charmer, who, like the shy hen-bird, +will readily respond to the call of her mate. + +[Illustration: A Dose of Moxa. (Native drawing.)] + +A more practical idea of the requirements of married life may be +deduced from the annexed woodcut, representing the application of +moxa, which is very commonly used as a remedy for rheumatism, and to +promote circulation. + +Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in their +houses; and when other occupations fail them, the spinning-wheel, or +loom, is brought out, and materials for clothing their families are +prepared. In the country, the women share equally with their husbands +and children in agricultural labours; early and late whole families +may be seen in the paddy-fields transplanting rice, or superintending +its irrigation, for which the undulating nature of the country affords +great facility. + +[Illustration: Transplanting Rice. (Native drawing.)] + +Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they have always a +cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under extremely irritating +circumstances, as they are greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in +the paddy-fields. + +The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation of the +soil is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with surprise on the +luxuriant crops of cereals, roots, and vegetables; and this is solely +owing to the care taken in preparing the soil, which is not naturally +productive. Weeds are never to be met with in the fields, which, +however, from the constant manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet +fresh smell of our own. + +With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese who +cannot read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling they use +computing slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which they quickly +settle the amount to be paid. They do not, except in the higher +classes, receive what we understand by a general or scientific +education, the members of each trade or profession being only +instructed in what pertains to their own affairs--a fact the inquiring +stranger soon discovers. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY. + + +The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal princes, +called Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their respective +provinces, but subject to the general control of one of their number, +(selected from one of three great families), called the 'Tycoon,' who, +assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great Council,' presides over the affairs +of the state in the name of the 'Mikado,' or 'Spiritual Emperor,' its +supreme head. + +The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the +disturbances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance lies +in possessing the power of issuing decrees, bestowing titles, and +delegating authority to others; and princes discontented with the +Tycoon are constantly intriguing against his legitimate influence with +the Mikado. For instance: an attempt was made in 1864 by a powerful +coalition, headed by Choisiu, prince of Nangato, to obtain possession +of the Mikado's person. This was only prevented after a severe +struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose care the +palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict a large +portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT.] + +The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require his +presence elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of the city, +and is surrounded by grounds several miles in circumference, and +enclosed by a deep moat. It is there that he receives the compulsory +visits of the grandees of the empire, one of whom, on the point of +being ushered into the audience-chamber, is shown opposite, in his +robes of ceremony, and attended by a sword-bearer, in token of his +high rank. The bonze, or priest, who precedes him, does not impart any +religious signification to the visit, as priests commonly act in the +double capacity of spy and master of the ceremonies. The screen, which +forms the background of the illustration is worthy of attention, as +its subject is taken from the Japanese mythology, and represents the +great sun-god from whom Ten-zio-dai-zin, the patron goddess of the +empire, sprang. + +In public, these oligarchical princes are invariably surrounded by all +the pomp of feudal state, and when they travel are escorted by large +bodies of retainers. At Kanagawa, which adjoins the settlement of +Yokohama, the foreigner has frequent opportunities of witnessing their +processions as they pass to and fro along the 'tokaido,' or 'great +public road,' when they are going on their compulsory visits to Yeddo +from their own country palaces. Nor is much danger attached to this, +as the passing of Daimios whom it would be dangerous to meet on the +tokaido, is always notified by the authorities to the consul. On +witnessing a Daimio's procession for the first time, it is hard to +realise that it is not a scene from some gorgeous pantomime, ao +brilliant and varied are the costumes of the retainers, and so totally +different is it from anything which European eyes are accustomed to +gaze upon. But should anything excite the risible faculties of the +observer, his hallucinations are likely to be quickly scattered by the +scowls of the resolute-looking fellows passing by with 'hand on +sword,' needing but little encouragement to 'set a glory' to it, 'by +giving it the worship of revenge,' as they are extremely jealous of +the honour of their prince, and regard the presence of foreigners on +the tokaido at such times as an insult. This circumstance is also +rendered more galling by foreigners sitting coolly on their horses by +the road-side as the great man passes, generally in a low norimon, on +which they must necessarily look down--in contradiction to Japanese +etiquette, which permits no inferior to look down upon a +superior--while the people of the country are either abjectly +kowtowing to him or patiently waiting in their closed houses until his +passing shall set them once more at liberty. + +A review given the by two ministers for foreign affairs to Sir +Rutherford Alcock, shortly before his departure, was a very imposing +spectacle. The approach of the ministers was announced by the beating +of drums (which are sometimes carried on the shoulder and struck by +the palm of the hand) and the blowing of conch-shells, each instrument +being sounded three times in succession, at short intervals. Men in +armour carrying banners, bearing the Tycoon's crest, headed the +procession. They were followed by a large drum in a square case, +carried by two men, and the conch-blowers; then came a number of +spearmen in armour; officers on horseback immediately preceding the +ministers. On arriving at the ground they dismounted, and were +received by Sir Rutherford Alcock, the remainder of their retinue +passing on and forming in rear of the others, to the left of the +English garrison, consisting of the second battalion of the 20th +Regiment, the Royal Marine battalion, and detachments of Royal +Artillery, of the 67th Regiment, and Beloochees, who were drawn up in +brigade in honour of the occasion. At the request of the ministers the +garrison marched past and performed a few manoeuvres, concluding with +discharging blank cartridge in squares and in skirmishing order. The +rapidity of the fire appeared to make a great impression on them. This +over, the Japanese performance commenced; which was a representation +of their ancient order of battle, the retainers dividing and forming +in lines opposite one another, and about one hundred yards apart. The +proceedings were conducted by two marshals on foot; they began by +forming the spearmen in line, with emphatic guttural commands, +stamping of the feet, and flourishing of gilt batons, to the end of +which wisps of paper were attached. All were habited in magnificent +armour: some wore complete suits of mail; others chain armour, lined +with gorgeous silks. Broad lacquered hats were here and there +substituted for helmets; or both were dispensed with, and the temples +of the combatants bound with linen cloth, which is their usual +headdress in action. Presently a signal was given, on which the +opposing lines commenced simultaneously to 'mark line double.' At a +second signal they faced into Indian file, and the marshals, placing +themselves at their head, led them off at a swinging trot, the whole +party flinging up their heels like boys playing at 'follow my leader,' +until startling guttural shouts from the marshals caused the +glittering lines to halt and face each other. The horsemen, who had +hitherto taken no part in the pageant, were now stationed in rear of +the centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the effect by +their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour, and the heraldic +banners, which were attached to the back of the cuirass and floated +about two feet over their heads. As soon as the horsemen were +stationed the exciting part of the sham-fight began, by the lines +being wheeled backwards and forwards in wings from the centre, and +into zigzag formations from central points, with a slow 'stamp-and-go' +march, the spears being flourished with each motion and pointed high +and low, and right and left, as in our bayonet exercise. The marshals +regulated the movements of their respective lines with great accuracy, +the one being retired directly the other advanced, so that the +relative distance was never altered. After a time both parties +suddenly assumed a sitting posture and exchanged howls of defiance, +which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a simultaneous rush, as if to +engage, finished the performance from which the representatives of +barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty cheers of the representatives +of the bayonet and rifle. + +[Illustration: A Daimio Retainer. (Native Drawing.)] + +Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are surrounded +by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the country so +trammels their actions with formalities and espionage as to keep them +in considerable subjection to the Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of +their houses respected, for their families are retained in Yeddo, as +hostages for their good behaviour, while they are absent in their +principalities. As an occasional relaxation from the cares attendant +on their high position, they avail themselves of a privilege called +'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the pleasures and +amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings and coloured +representations of scenes connected with the higher classes which so +largely engross the attention of Japanese artists, generally depict +naiboen intrigues and adventures: these convey, however, a very +exaggerated idea of the manner in which the Daimios conduct themselves +on these occasions. + +[Illustration: Coolies carrying Norimon. (From Native Drawing.)] + +The family in the house-boat witnessing a pyrotechnic display in the +bay of Yeddo, may be regarded as a faithful representation of a +Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen. The great man in his light summer +robe has apparently cast aside the cares of office, and seems +thoroughly to enjoy the cool evening breeze and the society of his +wives, only one of whom has a legal claim to that title, by right of +which she takes precedence of the others. Of the two bonzes, or +priests, in the stem of the boat, one, probably, is a member of the +family, and the other its spy, for even naiboen excursions are not +exempted from espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this +custom that they generally regard it as a necessary check upon +themselves. Naiboen excursions to the tea-houses are very frequent, +notice being sent previously in order to insure proper accommodation +and privacy: the latter precaution being principally taken on account +of the ladies of the family, who never go beyond the palace except in +a norimon guarded by armed retainers. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS.] + +In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their habits as the +rest of the people. They are much given to study, the favourite +subjects being poetry,[3] history, astronomy, and logic. The children +are usually taught the rudiments of education by their mothers, and as +they advance in years, are either privately instructed by masters or +sent to the great schools at Miako, which are said to be attended by +upwards of four thousand scholars. + +[Footnote 3: A very interesting volume of translations of Japanese +Lyrical Odes has lately been published by F.V. Dickins, Esq. M.B.: +Smith, Elder, & Co.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE COURT OF THE MIKADO. + + +The spiritual Emperor of Japan is supposed to be a direct descendant +of the gods, and as such enjoys the adoration, as well as the fealty +of his subjects. Unfortunately, his divine attributes deprive him of +the free exercise of his human functions, as his feet are never +permitted to touch the ground out of doors; nor is he allowed to cut +his hair, beard, or nails, or to expose himself to the rays of the +sun, which, would detract from the excellency of his person. His +principal titles are, 'Zen Zi'--'Son of Heaven;' 'Mikado,'--'Emperor;' +and 'Dairi,' or 'Kinrai,'--'Grand Interior:' the latter denoting the +perpetual seclusion of his person. It is said that his ancestry can be +traced in an unbroken line from nearly 700 years before the Christian +era. + +The Mikado never goes beyond the precincts of the Imperial residence, +which occupies a large portion of the city of Miako, comprising +numerous palaces and gardens; and connected with it are the schools +alluded to in the last chapter, which are established on the plan of a +university, and are much resorted to by the children of the nobility. + +[Illustration: A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION.] + +Whenever this great personage wishes to take an airing, he is carried +by fourteen men in a large norimon with latticed windows, through +which he is able to see without being seen; and even when granting an +audience he is said to be concealed from view by bamboo screen-work. +His court consists of the members of his own family and certain great +officers of State appointed by the Tycoon, who nominally receive and +promulgate his commands; but, in ordinary times, he has no real power +in the temporal affairs of the empire, and only refuses to confer +legality on the acts of his lieutenant under the pressure of intrigue, +or of undue family influence. + +To relieve the wearisome monotony of his life, as well as to prevent +the possibility of the sacred race becoming extinct, he is allowed +twelve wives, who are chosen from the most beautiful daughters of the +chief princes of the empire. These ladies occupy separate palaces in +the immediate vicinity of his, where they are attended by their own +retainers; but only one of them enjoys the rank of empress, although +they are all treated with the deference due to royalty. He is also +said to have an unlimited number of concubines, who reside within the +bounds of the Imperial establishment. + +The distinctive mark of the members of the Mikado's court and of the +ladies of his family consists of two black patches placed on the +forehead, and in the arrangement of the hair, which is gathered up in +a long cue and curved over the head by one sex, and worn dishevelled +and without any kind of ornament by the other. Though the Mikado has +little influence in the secular affairs of state, his authority in +religious questions is supreme; but it is doubtful if he personally +takes any part in the solemnities which are constantly occurring at +Miako. + +The subject of illustration represents one of these sacred +observances: the procession is coming from the Mikado's palace, which, +properly speaking, is a temple, being full of idols and effigies of +the 'Kamis,' or 'canonised saints.' The principal figure is the third +minister of state, and from this circumstance the white dresses worn +by the 'Kargardhee,' or 'fire-bearers,' and the presence of some of +the Imperial children, it is probably a midnight pilgrimage to some +neighbouring shrine, in honour of the manes of a departed member of +the family. + +The early education of the Mikado's children is entrusted to the +ladies of the court: the sons, while still young, are sent to +different religious fraternities; and the daughters, on attaining a +suitable age, are bestowed in marriage on the nobles of the country, +except the eldest, who is appointed chief priestess of the temple of +the Sun at Issie, which contains the shrine of Ten-zio-dai-zin, to +which all Japanese are supposed to make a pilgrimage once in their +lifetime. + +The Mikado is said to spend the greatest portion of his time in the +society of his wives, who contribute to his amusement by singing, +dancing, and theatrical entertainments. The latter sometimes take +place in the open air, as in the scene depicted opposite; on which the +'Grand Interior' and a select party are supposed to be looking down +through the jalousies of the palace. The vocal, instrumental, and +theatrical talents of the performers, are here called into play, the +arena for the latter being the 'Mekoshee,' or movable stage, in which +a female figure may be noticed declaiming her part. The long-handled, +fantastically-coloured umbrellas, belong to the Imperial attendants +taking part in the theatricals, whose hair, it will be noticed, is +arranged according to court etiquette. + +[Illustration: A Begging Criminal. (Native Drawing.)] + +The men whose features are concealed by their broad hats are +'Ninsokee,' or 'public singers.' Generally speaking they belong to the +aristocratic class, and are reduced to earn their livelihood in this +manner in consequence of some misdemeanour, on account of which their +property has been forfeited to the state. Their occupation is in +itself a punishment, as Japanese gentlemen never sing, regarding that +accomplishment as derogatory to their dignity. A certain class of +criminals also wear a disguise of this nature, as shown in the +woodcut. + +[Illustration: THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE.] + +[Illustration: LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY +DANCE.] + +The band here represented is much stronger than those that generally +figure in Japanese orchestral and theatrical entertainments. Music is +not used, as with us, to fill the interval between the pieces, but +accompanies the performers throughout; the louder instruments being +energetically struck as the singing becomes impassioned or the actors +declamatory. + +The butterfly dance is another specimen of the amusements with which +the ladies of the Mikado's court while away their monotonous +existence. As here shown, it is a private performance, of which the +Empress and her principal attendants are the only spectators. The +insects are personated by two of her ladies, who mimic their motions +and sing praises of the different flowers they pretend to alight upon, +to the accompaniment of a band of fair musicians. But the most +interesting part of the affair is a spirited dialogue, in which they +cleverly criticise, under floral appellations, the different ladies of +the court, in a manner equally gratifying and flattering to their +royal mistress. + +[Illustration: Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)] + +The Mikado is always waited upon by the ladies of his court, and is +said never to eat twice from the same vessels, which are broken to +pieces as they are removed. An intelligent yaconin, however, on +being questioned about this point, was much amused; and, though he +professed ignorance of the subject, was evidently very sceptical on +the matter of the dishes. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +The 'HARA KIRU.' + + +Although we have long been aware of the existence of this peculiar +mode of suicide, the exclusive policy of the Japanese has placed +insuperable difficulties in the way of obtaining accurate information +concerning it. + +A more enlightened policy is now gaining ground in the country. The +chromo-lithographs that illustrate these 'Sketches' are fac-similes of +paintings by native artists, selected from a series lately published +at Yeddo, and sold to foreigners with the connivance, if not by +permission, of the authorities; for the spy system in Japan is so +perfect, that illicit dealings are next to impossible. + +As Japanese punishments entail disgrace on every member of the +culprit's family, the 'Hara Kiru,' or 'happy dispatch,' which is the +only exception, is regarded as a great privilege by the classes +entitled to avail themselves of it These consist of the nobility, +military, and official of a certain rank holding civil appointments. + +It seems to be a prevalent idea that this sacrifice is reserved for +political offences; but this is not the case, as crimes of all +descriptions are condoned by it. + +A simple act of suicide does not constitute the 'Hara Kiru.' To render +the act legal, and to ensure the heir and family of the person +performing it against disgrace and loss of property, an order for its +performance must be issued by the Tycoon, or by the suzerain prince of +the culprit. + +[Illustration: THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE.] + +The Japanese, being a high-spirited and patriotic people, consider +that death under any circumstances is preferable to dishonour; and the +privileged classes always carry about with them when they travel the +paraphernalia used at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru,' in token of +their readiness to prove their patriotism, or to die rather than +disgrace their family. + +The dress consists of a robe and 'harakama,' or 'winged official +dress,' of coarse white cloth--white being the funeral colour of the +country--which is undistinguished by the crest or any sign of the rank +of the owner. There is also the disembowelling knife, the blade of +which is about eight inches long, and very sharp. + +When the sentence of the 'Hara Kiru' is awarded, or the humble request +of a defeated politician to perform it is acceded to, a formal +document is made out and duly signed by the competent authorities. It +is then delivered to two commissioners, by whom it is conveyed to the +culprit. + +Should the proposed victim be a Daimio of importance, and sufficiently +powerful to set the Tycoon at defiance, the delivery of the imperial +mandate is likely to be attended with unpleasant results, as the +bearers are sometimes waylaid and murdered by retainers of the doomed +prince, and have frequently to resort to stratagem to accomplish their +task. But when once the mandate is delivered, the prince must submit, +or he would lose caste even with his own followers, so strongly are +the Japanese imbued with respect for the ancient customs of their +country. + +The accompanying illustrations represent the different formalities +that are observed at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru' by a Daimio. + +On receiving the official intimation of his sentence, he orders the +necessary preparations to be made, and informs his friends and +relatives of it, inviting them to share in a parting carouse with him. + +On the appointed day, after taking a private farewell of his family, +he receives his friends. He is habited in his white robes, and +supported by two of his relatives or ministers, similarly attired. +When the time arrives (which is previously arranged with the +commissioners) he takes leave of the guests, as on any ordinary +occasion, and enters the screened enclosure, accompanied by his +supporters. It will be noticed, that the retainers guarding the +exterior and entrance are barefooted, which is a mark of respect in +honour of the rank of the culprit, and of the solemnity of the +occasion. + +The Tycoon's messengers then read the imperial mandate, which +proclaims that, in accordance with the ancient custom of the country, +the Daimio is permitted honourably to sacrifice himself for its +benefit, and thus to expiate in his own person the crime or offence he +has committed against the welfare of the state. In the illustration, +the two officials charged with this disagreeable office are sitting +opposite the Daimio and his friends, reading the fatal document, their +suite surrounding them in respectful attitudes. + +The whole party wear the official dress, which intimates at once the +respect due to the victim and the official nature of the ceremony. + +The second scene shows the Daimio on the point of performing the +sacrificial ceremony. His forelock is reversed, as a sign of +submission to his fate, and to assist the executioner, who, as soon as +his master goes through the form of disembowelling himself with the +knife on the stand, will, with one blow of his razor-edged sword, +complete the sacrifice by decapitation. Only the two chief +commissioners appointed by the Tycoon, and the sorely-tasked +supporters of the victim, remain to witness the last act of the drama. +The rest of the party await its completion in the adjoining +compartment of the enclosure, which is expressly constructed for that +purpose. + +The funeral procession, which is the subject of the next scene, is +accompanied by all the pomp indicative of the high position of the +deceased. The mourners wear robes of white cloth, and all the feudal +paraphernalia are draped with the same material; which, as before +mentioned, is used in Japanese mourning. The coffin is carried near +the head of the procession; it is a square box of resinous wood, +covered over with white, and the body is placed in it in a sitting +posture. + +[Illustration: THE SACRIFICE.] + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL.] + +[Illustration: CREMATION OF THE BODY.] + +[Illustration: RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES.] + +All the members of the family attend the funeral, either on foot or +in norimons. If the wife and the heir be absent in Yeddo, they are +represented by the nearest relations. In this instance both are +present, from which it may be inferred that the sacrificial act has +taken place in the neighbourhood of Yeddo. + +Although the Japanese sometimes bury their dead, they generally +practise cremation. Repulsive as this custom is to European ideas, it +must be remembered that the Japanese are not singular in preferring +it, as several of the most civilised nations of antiquity considered +it the most honourable mode of disposing of the bodies of the dead. +While the body is being reduced to ashes the priests tell their beads +and chant prayers for the soul of the departed, as the followers of +almost every religious sect in Japan believe in a state of purgatory. + +The last scene shows the wife and son of the victim of the 'Hara Kiru' +collecting his ashes and depositing them in an earthenware jar. This +is afterwards sealed down and conveyed to the cemetery, or temple, +which contains the remains of his ancestors. + +Some of the Japanese cemeteries are very extensive; and they are +generally situated in secluded, picturesque spots, in the +neighbourhood of the towns and villages. + +The graves are small, round, cemented receptacles; just large enough +to receive the jar containing the ashes. If the body is buried (which +only happens when the deceased is friendless, or too poor to pay the +expenses of cremation), the head is always placed pointing to the +north. The tombstones are ordinarily about three feet high; and are +either square or circular in shape, resting on square pedestals, in +which small holes are cut to contain rice and water. The supplies of +these are replenished from time to time, generally by the women of the +family, lest the spirit of the deceased should revisit its grave and +imagine itself neglected. Sometimes flowers are placed before the +graves, and flowering sprigs of peach and plum are stuck in the ground +about them. + +Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to propitiate the +deities in favour of their departed relatives; and the neighbourhood +of a graveyard may generally he detected by the peculiar aromatic +odour emitted during the burning of these. For some time after a +funeral the relatives daily visit the tomb and intercede for the dead, +holding their hands up in the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the +palms together as they mutter their monotonous orisons. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS. + + +Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they are great +lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to sight-seeing; theatres and +wax-work exhibitions are very numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and +tumblers, are regular _habitues_ of the streets. + +Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business, they do not +hesitate to associate it with religious observances; and on solemn +festival occasions, the vicinity of even the most sacred temples is +occupied by a variety of shows and common stalls, for the sale of +sweetmeats, toys, and coloured pictures. + +Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may he regarded +as the national game of the country. It is very generally practised, +and pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be frequently met with of an +evening in the outskirts of towns and villages, either crouched down +in the preliminary attitude, which resembles that of angry +fighting-cocks, or dragging one another to and fro like frogs +struggling over a choice morsel. The game is necessarily a dragging +and pulling one, its grand object being to force the opponent beyond a +certain boundary. + +So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who travel +about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios keep private +bands: each district has some especial champion; and every Japanese a +favourite '_smoo_' as they term the wrestlers, whose exploits are +canvassed with an enthusiasm totally at variance with the stolid +indifference which usually characterises the people, when any subject +is broached that does not directly concern their ordinary vocations. + +The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean proportions. +From constant practice they attain a muscular development that would +eclipse that of our prize-ring champions; but their paunchy figures +and sluggish movements render any further comparison impossible, as +they neither practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and +weight are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which +their performances are confined: so, instead of walking down +superabundant flesh, they endeavour to increase it, dieting themselves +on rice and fish, which is far from productive of any Bantingite +result. The illustration of the Great Wrestling Amphitheatre at Yeddo +conveys a fair idea of the estimation in which athletic games are held +by the Japanese. The enclosure is capable of containing several +thousand spectators, and is always filled when a match of importance +takes place. + +In the centre is the '_docho_,' or 'boundary-ring,' which is about +eighteen feet in diameter. The game is generally decided by one or +other of the combatants being forced against this boundary; for, +although a fair throw counts, it rarely decides the mastery, as the +great weight and the crouching position of the wrestlers necessitate +dragging, pushing, and even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp +is such, that any other results are almost impossible. + +The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low; and, like +everything else of a public nature, is regulated by the government +Officials are appointed to superintend the arrangements, and to see +that no accidents arise from overcrowding. For this purpose they are +provided with a box that overlooks the whole building. + +The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage, from +which the commencement and duration of each match are intimated to the +audience by a certain number of strokes on the drum that surmounts it. + +[Illustration: PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO.] + +Before each wrestling-match commences, the 'geogee,' or 'judge,' who +superintends it, shouts out the names and exploits of the contenders, +who, after kowtowing very ceremoniously to one another, rise to the +preliminary attitude. + +At a signal from the judge the combatants commence. At first they move +cautiously about the centre of the ring, watching a favourable +opportunity to close, which they presently do with deep guttural +exclamations. Then great working of muscle and tugging and straining +follow, the spectators cheering on their respective favourites, until +the fall of the geogee's fan--which is the moment depicted by the +artist--proclaims the victor. + +Thundering plaudits greet the hero of the occasion, who presently +strolls about among the assembled multitude, attended by his 'coegi,' +or 'servant,' who collects the offerings with which they liberally +reward his exertions. When money fails, articles of clothing are +frequently bestowed--and sometimes too freely, as it is by no means +unusual for both sexes to half denude themselves at these exhibitions; +and it is a favourite joke with the women to send their male friends +to redeem the articles from the wrestler. + +Although fencing is a military exercise, it is so commonly practised +by the Japanese 'yaconinierie,' or 'soldiery,' who comprise a large +portion of the population, and is entered into by them in so spirited +a manner, that it deserves to be classed as an amusement. + +[Illustration: Yaconins fencing.] + +The woodcut is a very faithful representation of yaconins fencing. The +masks cover the whole of the head; and the arms, breast, and hips, are +protected by cuirass, petticoat, &c. of leather ribbed with bamboo. + +The fencing sticks are of the same length as the +'obi-todee-auf-catana,' or 'great fighting-sword.' They are made of +split canes, bound tightly together, and are used with both hands. + +The Japanese fence well, and deliver their points with great +precision, especially an awkward downward thrust at the breast. + +They deliver their cuts and points with fierce guttural exclamations, +which are peculiarly disagreeable to European ears; especially when +the listener is located in the vicinity of a guard-house, whose +occupants notify their employment at daybreak with such cries as +'Hie-e! Ah-h! Atturah-h!' ('That's at! that's into you!') and continue +this information, accompanied by the clashing of their sticks, and +occasional chuckles, until late in the afternoon. + +The Japanese are great frequenters of the theatres, of the interior of +one of which the illustration is a very good representation--the +exterior is generally very like that of the temples; and in some, the +ground-floor is laid out with miniature lakes and bridges, the +audience looking down on the performance from lateral and opposite +galleries. + +The stage is a little smaller than ours, but sometimes has a promenade +through the centre of the theatre, which facilitates by-play, to which +the Japanese attach great importance. The body of the house is divided +into boxes, which are generally taken by family parties, who bring +their provisions with them and remain all day, as the performances +begin about 10 A.M. and last until late in the evening. Their plays +are very tedious, although enlivened by a good deal of smart +_repartee_ and telling jokes, but the morality even of the most +correct is very questionable. Love, of course, is the prevailing +feature; and the adventures of the principal heroes contain enough +bloodshed and murder to satisfy the most ardent admirer of sensation +dramas. In their hand-to-hand encounters they cut and slash at one +another with naked swords, which they manage very skilfully, never +permitting the blades to come into contact. The female parts are +performed by boys and young men, who, with the assistance of paint and +powder, make admirable substitutes for women, though singing and +dancing-girls are frequently introduced as divertissements. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A THEATRE.] + +[Illustration: Getting ready to go to the Theatre.] + +Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and childhood +may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at soaring monsters, in +the construction of which great ingenuity is displayed. + +The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a quarter of the +size of ours; and they are much given to gambling, although it is +strictly prohibited, and, when detected, severely punished. But the +most popular in-door game is & sort of combination of draughts and +chess, which frequently engrosses the players for hours at a time. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS. + + +Crimes against property are rare in Japan, which is owing to the +high-spirited and honourable feelings that actuate all classes of the +community; but from the feudal nature of the government, the small +value attached to life, and the deadly weapons constantly carried, by +the military classes, who are notoriously proud and revengeful, crimes +against the person are very frequent. + +A great check upon criminal offences is the severity of the +punishments inflicted, and the disgrace entailed upon the culprit's +family. + +Although the laws are extremely severe, and in their administration +there is neither jury nor counsel, justice is delivered with great +impartiality; and the judge, who is generally the governor of the town +or district in which the offence has been committed, is entrusted with +considerable discretionary power. + +When a prisoner is being examined his arms are bound to his sides by a +rope, which also passes round his neck, the end of which is held by an +official, who, if his charge prove unruly, manages him by pulls and +jerks. + +'Thrashemono,' or 'public exposure,' is associated with all Japanese +punishments, and is said to be in itself a great preventive of crime, +as the spirited Japanese dread being held up to the reprobation of +their acquaintance more than they fear the extreme penalty of the law. + +[Illustration: MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION.] + +The illustration, showing the mode of conducting a criminal to +execution, is an instance of 'thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a +horse, and is preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or +neighbours, and indicating his crime. In this manner he is conducted +through the town to the place of execution, where his sentence is read +to him. He is then placed (with his limbs still bound) over a +freshly-dug hole, where he is supported by his relatives till the +executioner's sword performs its task. + +After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally exposed: that +of Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in the presence of the +British garrison of Yokohama, for being the organizer of the +assassination of Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird of Her Majesty's +20th Regiment) was exhibited on the public stand at the guard-house at +the entrance of the town. + +This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a most +determined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of crime. + +When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding his +execution, he conducted himself with great bravado, remarking on the +improvements in the town since he last visited it, and expressing his +regret that he had not killed a consul. + +At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in which he +declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had studied the arts +and sciences, and never believed the government would sacrifice a +Japanese for the death of a foreigner. He said that the days would +come when they would repent the encouragement they were now giving to +strangers; and ended by complimenting the executioner on his +well-known skill. + +The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus ably +described by the highest authority on Japanese matters:[4]-- + +'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who are of his +family, or claim his protection, when any of his people are resolved +upon a desperate enterprise they formally renounce the protection and +declare themselves "lonins;"--in other words, outlaws, or friendless +men: after which no one is responsible for their acts, and this is +considered a highly honourable and proper thing to do. + +[Footnote 4: Sir Rutherford Alcock. See 'Capital of the Tycoon.'] + +The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or assisting a +lonin endangers his head; and such men are, therefore, compelled to +resort to robbery and extortion as means of supporting themselves. It +generally happens that this legalised method of taking the law into +their own hands drives those who avail themselves of it into a series +of crimes, and frequently they become the associates of common +thieves. + +Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a rich +merchant's house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest being +thieves in disguise. + +The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords plainly +intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm, or to offer +resistance to their demands, have apparently been collecting all the +money in the house and are laying it before the thieves. The oblong +boxes are iron safes, in which the Japanese keep their money. + +From the position of the other members of the gang, it is evident that +they have not got all they require, and are watching something going +on in the interior of the house. They have probably learnt that the +merchant has to forward some money for the purchase of goods by a +certain date, and know exactly how much to expect. + +In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the Yeddo +merchants, congratulated them on the fact that the portion of the +country under his immediate control was exempt from the depredations +of lonins; but notwithstanding this statement, a robbery of the nature +described took place in the capital immediately after the issue of the +Tycoon's manifesto, and a lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for +his conduct, that he had learnt that the money was intended for +foreigners, who were settled in the country in opposition to the laws +of Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked. + +With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant classes, +that it frequently happens that one or two will go into a village and +extort what they require without the slightest resistance being +offered. + +[Illustration: LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE.] + +[Illustration: EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY.] + +As a rule, Japanese punishments resemble those inflicted by the +Chinese, and seem to be based on the Mosaic principle of 'an eye for +an eye and a tooth for a tooth.' Arson, for instance, is punished at +the stake; and a thief who endeavours to conceal the results of his +robberies by burying them, has the disadvantages of that mode of +concealment impressed upon him, by being himself embedded for a day or +two in the ground, with only his head out--a mode of instruction that +rarely requires a repetition of the lesson. + +_Apropos_ of this punishment is the testimony of an eye-witness, who, +in passing the public execution place at Yeddo, noticed a head on the +ground, which he supposed to have been recently struck off. He had +turned away with a shudder, when a laugh from the bystanders caused +him to look again, when, to his great astonishment, the head was +vigorously puffing at a pipe which the facetious executioner had a few +moments before been smoking himself. + +The last illustration shows a man and woman undergoing public exposure +for adultery--a crime which is rare in Japan and which is punished +with great severity. + +With such detestation is it regarded, that, in addition to all legal +cognizance, the husband is permitted, in certain instances, to avenge +himself by taking the lives of the offenders upon the spot. + +The board on the right contains the official intimation of the crime. + +The curious instruments depicted in the woodcut are Japanese emblems +of justice and are to be seen at all the guard-houses; they are used +to catch runaway offenders or to pin a drunken yaconin against a wall +or house, and so facilitate the task of disarming him without danger +to the captors. + +[Illustration: Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo.] + +Although the Japanese use torture to extract information from +obstinate criminals, they employ all necessary caution to preserve +life; and a doctor and responsible officer are always present when it +is employed, as representatives of the respective claims of humanity +and justice. A singular punishment, to which only the nobles of the +country are liable, is secret banishment to the island of Fatzisiu, +which is situated on the northern coast of the empire. It is small and +barren, rising perpendicularly from the sea. The only communication +with it is by means of a basket, which is lowered from an overhanging +tree to the water, a distance of about fifty feet.[5] From this island +there is no return, and the unhappy, incarcerated nobles, are +compelled to support themselves by weaving silks, which are the most +beautiful the country produces. A junk visits the island once a-year, +when the silks are exchanged for provisions. + +[Footnote 5: In 1853 an English man-of-war visited this island, and +two of the officers were hoisted up in the basket for the purpose of +taking sights. One of them, who was my informant, describes it as a +walled-in barren island, with no other mode of ingress or egress than +that described.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES. + + +The Sintoo faith and Buddhism are the prevalent religions of the +Japanese. The teaching of the other sects is modelled more or less on +the tenets inculcated by these two. Some, however, hold a philosophic +doctrine, which recognises a Supreme Being but denies a future state, +holding that happiness is only to be insured by a virtuous life. + +Sintooism may be regarded as the national religion of the country. It +inculcates a high moral standard; and its chief personage is the +Mikado, or spiritual emperor, who is considered to be a mediator +between his subjects and the inhabitants of the other world. + +Every Sintoo has the image of a patron 'kami,' or 'saint,' enshrined +in his house, to which he lays open his necessities and confesses his +shortcomings, and by whose intercession with the Supreme Being he +trusts at his death to be translated to the regions of the 'kamis,' as +they designate their heaven. + +The wicked are supposed to be consigned to the abodes of the +disembodied spirits, who are punished according to the nature of their +crimes. For instance, saki merchants who have sold bad spirit are +believed to be confined in stagnant pools; and murderers are supposed +to haunt the graves of their victims, until the prayers of their +relatives release them. Purity of life and body is the leading feature +of the Sintoo faith. As an emblem of the natural purity of the soul, +mirrors are hung up in the temples; and the more ignorant people (who +in Japan, like every other country, are most influenced by +superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror, that the Supreme +Being sees their past lives as easily as they do their own faces. The +value attached to indulgences and charms is very great, and the sale +of them contributes largely to the revenues of the Mikado. Charms are +eagerly purchased by the lower orders, who carry them about their +persons, and never let anybody touch them except themselves. + +At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was accidentally +dropped by a lively little 'moosmie,' or 'girl,' who was waiting on a +party of foreigners. One of them picked it up, and was on the point of +opening the small box in which it is placed for safety when she +discovered the loss, and made a desperate rush for its recovery. On +finding the importance attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, +was handed round the group as she eagerly darted after it; and on one +of the party pretending to light a cigar with it she burst into tears, +and was not to be pacified until it was restored. + +A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese is +'Osurasma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they wisely +consider that even the most holy must have some small peccadilloes to +answer for. + +This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death: a white +lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of the mourners' +houses, while they offer oblations and burn joss-sticks. Food is also +prepared and laid out, in case the spirit of the departed, finding the +journey to the regions of the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should +need refreshment. + +No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the white lamp +is hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy of a family +engaged in these solemn duties, as the spirits of the departed are +firmly believed to revisit their former dwellings at such times, if +they have not already entered into a state of bliss. + +[Illustration: SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION.] + +[Illustration: PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY.] + +In one of their festivals they make pilgrimages at night to the +graves of their friends, on which they place food and hang lamps. It +is said they believe their ancestors to come from heaven to them on +these occasions, and imagine that they return again in small boats, to +which they attach lanterns, and which they place on the water at +ebb-tide, on the evening of the last day of the festival, and eagerly +watch, out of sight. An old fisherman, however, who was observed +intently watching his frail bark floating out to sea, explained, on +being questioned, that he whose lamp burnt longest caught most fish; +and judging from the old man's solemn manner there was no doubt he had +perfect faith in the truth of his statement. + +However gross their superstitions may he, there is no doubt that they +affectionately revere the memory of their dead, and treat them with +quite as much respect as the most civilised nation in Christendom. + +In battle the Japanese always carry off the fallen. + +At the bombardment of the Simono-seki forts, at the entrance of the +Suwo-Nada, or 'Inland Sea,' in September 1864, Prince Choisiu's loss, +according to one of his own officers, amounted to upwards of 500 +killed and wounded; but all had been removed when the brigade of +English, French, and Dutch, under the command of Colonel Suther, C.B., +Royal Marines, took possession of the forts early next day. At the +storming of a stockade (which was pluckily defended) by two battalions +of Royal Marines and the light-armed companies of the British +squadron, the Japanese were noticed carrying away their dead and +wounded, and several were unfortunately shot while thus employed.[6] + +A few nights afterwards large fires were noticed in the interior, +which were said to be the funeral pyres of those who had fallen in the +defence of the forts and stockade. + +[Footnote 6: The whole of the operations, with the exception of the +storming of the stockade, which took place late in the day after the +French and Dutch had embarked, were under the personal superintendence +of the English and French admirals.] + +The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a custom of +Buddhist origin which is generally adopted by the Japanese. They +believe that shaving the head of the dead propitiates the deities in +their favour. It is also considered to be an emblem of sanctity, and +the bonzes, or priests, always keep their heads clean-shaved. Even +children intended for the priesthood, as well as certain religious +societies of both sexes, are similarly distinguished. Odder-looking +creatures than these bald-headed specimens of humanity can hardly be +imagined. + +[Illustration: Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. (Native drawing.)] + +The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a specimen of +the class of Japanese most prone to superstition. The lantern he +carries serves not only to light his way but to advertise his wares: +it also bears his name, no Japanese of the lower orders being allowed +to stroll about at night without a lantern so distinguished. + +[Illustration: SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES.] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES. + + +Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries connecting +it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or 'Imperial High +Road,' to which occasional reference has been made. + +Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of more than +ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care bestowed upon it +for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to keep that portion of it +which passes through his dominions in repair), become a broad and +well-graduated highway. + +It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines, cryptomerias, +and other lofty trees; and small plantations of the graceful bamboo +are generally to be seen in the neighbourhood of the roadside houses. + +The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to be +observed rising one above another, in that wild conglomeration +peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the Island of Nipon the snowy +cone of Fusiyama is almost always visible from the higher ground. + +The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields are +sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the ground permits. +The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered with rich crops of +cereals, which are watered by natural or artificial streams. + +As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional glimpses of the +sea meet the eye, often with a series of headlands jutting one beyond +another into it, and distant islands dotting the horizon. + +By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; and in +their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, hydrangeas, +violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild flowers. + +[Illustration: Carpenters at work. (Native drawing.)] + +Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and their +hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large +portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes +through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent +opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for +mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the +woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the +Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the +interior and its occupants open to the road. + +The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside +scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will +be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in +the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are +the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they +faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles. + +With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the +way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart +for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido +belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath +their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages. + +[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.] + +[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.] + +Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy +travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. It is true that +the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the +approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable +to Europeans; but the Japanese are accustomed to this, and proceed +with their journey after half-an-hour's detention without being in any +way put out by it. + +[Illustration: Tea-house Girl waiting. (Native drawing.)] + +The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido have a +great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A smiling welcome +from the pretty waitresses employed at these places may always be +anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, however slight their +requirements may be, they are certain to be promptly and courteously +attended to. + +If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to the +tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along the road, +where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a trifling cost. + +Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are much +frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on account of the +beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph opposite represents one +of these parties, some of whom appear to have been indulging too +freely in saki. The fellow dancing and waving the fan about is +apparently addressing a love-song to the lady opposite, whose husband +is evidently desirous of putting a stop to the flirtation. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE. + + +There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to English +ideas, and so materially affecting the national character, that it is +necessary to call special attention to them. + +The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one in the +country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, or spiritual +and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the people. + +All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every governor +of a town or district is associated with a vice-governor, who is an +'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is in turn spied upon by others. In +this way a constant check is kept upon the executive of the empire. + +In addition to this acknowledged system, government officials are +frequently watched by secret spies, who, for aught they know, may be +some apparently trusty friend: so that, even in the absence of their +double, they can never be certain that they are free from supervision. + +In private life families spy on each other, for which purpose they are +divided into coteries of five households, the heads of which are not +only responsible for themselves, their families and servants, but also +for the other members of the coterie; and any wrong-doing in one +household must be immediately reported to the proper authorities, to +secure the rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence. + +To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried, that a +whole district sometimes suffers for the offence of one of its +residents. In the towns where the streets are intersected with +barriers a few hundred yards apart, which are always closed at night, +the people living within these enclosures are often under the ban of +the officials for some irregularity which has occurred within the +limits. This constant espionage has, of course a very pernicious +effect upon the character of the people, as it necessarily instils +feelings of distrust and suspicion among near neighbours. Yet it is +marvellous how well their social system works, and still more +marvellous that the officials, who in public life practise every kind +of deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts deservedly +so, distinguished in private life for their truthfulness, candour, and +hospitality. + +The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner in which +the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All Japanese perform their +ablutions once or twice a-day; for which purpose the poorer classes +resort to the bath-houses, which are generally open to the road or +street. + +[Illustration: UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE.] + +Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one of these +is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, however, is more +for convenience than in compliance with the demands of modesty as is +evidenced by the fact that a male attendant is supplying water; and +that his presence is plainly a matter of perfect indifference to the +women bathing, with their children, in his immediate vicinity. + +But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary feature of +Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There men, women and +children, perform their ablutions together, with all the apparent +innocency of our first parents. The proceedings are conducted with +perfect order and good-nature. The steaming occupants make way for one +another with ball-room politeness; they laugh and chat over their +tubs, discuss the public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter +occasionally to the open door or window, to look at something which +has attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a passing +friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for itself of +their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in their conduct. + +Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the cleansing +process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial compliment, as +regular bathing-men are employed for the convenience of those who +require such attention. + +The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day and the +evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always full. + +[Illustration: Going home from the Bath-house. (Native drawing.)] + +The _modus operandi_ is very simple. The bather, after duly depositing +his straw shoes at the door and paying a few cash for admittance, at +once proceeds to disrobe himself, placing his garments in an allotted +compartment. He then secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm +water, and, squatting down before it, lathers himself with a +vegetable, soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this +stage of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with +his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until the +remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be possessor +of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions. + +It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must have immoral +effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil consequences to it. They +say that, being accustomed to it from childhood, it only enables them +to carry out those habits of cleanliness which distinguish alike their +persons and their homes. + +It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to protect +themselves from a second bath on returning from the bath-houses to +their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with the umbrella (which +bears his name and direction, by the way) is an instance of this. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LOVE OF FLOWERS. + + +One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises all +classes of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the singularly +rich and varied nature of the flora of the country, aided by the +magnificent climate, enables them to cultivate with great success. + +Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening; and, +however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted flower or +dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a flowering branch of +peach or cherry, placed in water. + +Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and grafting +trees and plants, and of laying out miniature landscapes, into which +artificial mountains and valleys are introduced, and very frequently +lakes, studded with lilliputian fern-covered islands, around which +gold and silver fish may be seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, +taking refuge under curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of +the lotus, which usually cover a portion of the surface--the only +thing out of proportion, probably, in the details of the miniature +landscape. + +The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally situated at +the sides or back; and either open upon flower-beds, grounds of the +above description, or some kind of enclosure, shaded by peach or +pear-trees, trained trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one +solitary bough twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its +unnatural contortions, the skill of the artist, the other branches +having been lopped off, or stunted, to facilitate the growth and +training of this one. + +Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also very common. +Some are perfect _bijoux_. As a rule the varied collections of +flowers, planted in coloured china pots, are arranged, with very +agreeable effect, in tiers of shelves round the sides, and on stands +about the gardens. + +Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great variety of +foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an extent is this +practised, that it is rare to find pure botanical specimens in a +Japanese garden. Plants are sometimes cultivated for their berries as +well as for their variegated foliage. One very beautiful specimen, +producing at the same time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is +believed by many to have been obtained from cuttings of an exquisite +shrub, which is said to be the principal ornament of the regions of +the 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven. + +Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at the hands of +Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are artificially variegated; +and others, on reaching maturity, have a curious crumpled appearance. +Again, the roots of certain small species are frequently twisted into +curious devices, and hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect +of these, when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young +fronds, is very pretty. + +Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and is in +great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily paid for fine +specimens. + +The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain their +livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy them not only +to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to their Lares and +Penates--patron 'Kamis;' or to decorate the tombs of departed +relatives--a religious ceremony which is strictly observed. + +Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much +frequented by the people. + +[Illustration: A FLOWER SHOW.] + +The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These flowers are +much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more attention to size and +brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The stone in the centre is +called a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in praise of flowers is inscribed. +This is a custom of very ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on +stones and rocks are to be often seen in public places. The piece of +ornamental stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp,' which is very +common in gardens, and is much prized on account of the historical +associations connected with it. + +The Japanese have many floral compliments. A very pretty one is +intimated by a present of seeds (especially if presented to a +foreigner returning to his own country), the purport being--'Plant +these seeds about your home, and, when you see them growing, think of +me.' + +[Illustration: Girl with Flowers.] + +As an instance of the influence which flowers have upon the Japanese +character, the word 'hanna,' or flower, is commonly used as a term of +endearment: it is usually applied by parents to a favourite daughter, +or by a lover to his mistress; it is also used to distinguish the +bride and the bridegroom, as 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral +love-tokens (although they only consist of a single sprig) are as much +prized among the Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, +sometimes + + "Treasured in their fading," + +as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to sentimental +reflections. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +******* This file should be named 13051.txt or 13051.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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