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diff --git a/old/13051-8.txt b/old/13051-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..80b90cd --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13051-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2227 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs, by +J. M. W. Silver + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs + +Author: J. M. W. Silver + +Release Date: July 29, 2004 [eBook #13051] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +E-text prepared by Doshisha University, Michael Ciesielski, Sandra Brown, +and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original lovely illustrations. + See 13051-h.htm or 13051-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h/13051-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h.zip) + + + + + +SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + +by + +J. M. W. SILVER +Lieutenant Royal Marines, Light Infantry +(Late of the Royal Marine Battalion for Service in Japan) + +Illustrated by Native Drawings, +Reproduced in Fac-Simile by Means of Chromo-Lithography. + +LONDON + +1867 + + + + + + +[Illustration: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs] + + + + +TO + +COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX, BART. + +DEAR SIR EDMUND, + +These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs' were collected +during the years 1864-5, at which time I was attached to the Battalion +of Royal Marines for service in Japan, and it is now very pleasing to +have the privilege of dedicating them to one who was the friend and +companion-in-arms of my late Father. + +In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful acknowledgment +of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this Dedication of my humble +efforts to assist in the elucidation of the social condition of a +distant and comparatively unknown race, affords me deep gratification. + + With much respect and esteem, I am, + Dear Sir Edmund, + Very faithfully yours, + J. M. W. SILVER. + + +Royal Marine Barracks, Forton, +January 29th, 1867. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + I. FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS + + II. FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + III. DOMESTIC LIFE + + IV. THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY + + V. THE COURT OF THE MIKADO + + VI. THE 'HARA KIRU' + + VII. NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS + +VIII. CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS + + IX. SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES + + X. ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES + + XI. THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE + + XII. LOVE OF FLOWERS + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +TITLE. + +FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN. + +MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL. + +OTINTA LAMA. + +A FIRE-BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE. + +A JAPANESE WEDDING. + +A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT. + +A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS. + +A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION. + +THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE. + +LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE. + +THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE. + +THE SACRIFICE. + +A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL. + +CREMATION OF THE BODY. + +RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES. + +PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO. + +INTERIOR OF A THEATRE. + +MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION. + +LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE. + +EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY. + +SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION. + +PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY. + +SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES. + +A BAKER'S SHOP. + +A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING. + +UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE. + +A FLOWER SHOW. + + + + +[Illustration: FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN.] + +[Illustration: MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL.] + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS. + + +The first feature of Japanese life that prominently presents itself to +the notice of the stranger, is the number of festivals and holidays +held in honour of the various deities, warriors, and sages, or in +accordance with some ancient custom of the county, which is as +paramount an authority as the most stringent of its laws. Of these +festivals, the 'Oki-don-tako,' or 'Great Holiday,' which takes place +about Christmas, and lasts a fortnight, is the most important. +Previous to its celebration, it is customary with the people to settle +accounts, and amicably adjust any quarrels or estrangements that may +happen to exist; and they evince the same spirit that actuates +Christian nations at this season, by a general interchange of presents +and complimentary visits with their friends and acquaintance. So +anxious are the merchants to take this opportunity of settling with +their creditors, that, when the dealers have deficiencies to make up, +articles are frequently pressed on foreign residents at the Treaty +Ports at prices previously refused. + +The 'Gogata Seku,' the emblems of which form the first subject of +illustration, is also a festival of great importance: it takes place +about the middle of June, which is the fifth month of the Japanese +calendar, from which it derives its designation, and is kept up with +more than ordinary spirit during the three days of its continuance. It +is held in commemoration of Gongen Sama, the great general to whom +the present dynasty owes its existence; and the Japanese date their +births from this festival, even if born the day after its last +celebration. + +It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge aerial +fishes, in imitation of the 'koi,' or 'carp;' large crimson streamers, +representations of Gongen Sama crushing a demon; and the heads and +tails of crayfish, with which they decorate their dishes and the +entrances of their houses. The floating fish flag is hoisted over +every house in which a boy has been born during the preceding twelve +months, and is emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or +'carp,' which is very plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and +rivers, surmounting all obstacles in its way, and rendering itself by +its fecundity and edible qualities useful to the whole country, so the +child is to make his way through life, boldly fulfilling his destiny, +and proving himself a useful and beneficial member of the community. +In the same way, the scarlet streamer indicates the birth of a female +child, and the domestic nature of her duties. The crayfish are used to +remind the people of their humble origin (it being traditionary that +the empire originated from a race of poor fishermen), and the +consequent necessity of humility, temperance, and frugality, in their +different stations in life.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese letters +is an exhortation to the same effect.] + +Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival: he is +considered the especial champion of women, for whose protection he +instituted several laws and regulations; among others, making it +obligatory on them to blacken their teeth on entering into the married +state. He is believed to be able to charm away fevers, to alleviate +suffering, and to prevent the lives of his _protégées_ from being +embittered by jealousy. During the celebration of this festival the +whole country presents an extraordinary appearance; aerial fishes, +streamers, and bamboo decorations, meet the eye in every direction; +and the people in gala costume which is always worn on holidays, +greatly enhance the brilliancy of the scene. + +The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but there is +little difference in the material, the dress of every class being +regulated by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and purples predominate +in winter, the lighter and more varied colours being generally +confined to materials only adapted for summer use. The ladies have a +great partiality for crimson crape, which is generally worn as an +under-robe, and peeps daintily out at the bottom of the dress, and at +the wide open sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with the +girdle, at the back of which it is allowed to droop in full, graceful +folds. The men do not affect such bright colours as the women and +children, although their robes are often fantastically embroidered +with various strange devices, such as shell-fish, frogs, flowers and +landscapes, some of which are beautifully worked. + +[Illustration: Mother and Child.(From Photograph.)] + +The whole populace on these occasions seem determined to enjoy +themselves; the air of good-natured contentment, which characterises +them at all times, taking a more exuberant tone as they stroll about +the streets, visit in family parties, or make excursions to the +neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly domestic in their tastes and +habits, it is a pleasing sight to watch the family groups. Here a +grand-dame is carefully assisted along by her son and daughter-in-law, +preceded by chattering grandchildren in the gayest of dresses, tugging +at extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of his house, +nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admiration of +sympathizing friends another infant--probably one of the unconscious +objects of all this rejoicing. + +Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on these +festivals and holidays, they rarely become quarrelsome. It is, +however, by no means unusual for them to keep in a state of +intoxication for days; alleging this, with perfect _sang froid_, as an +excuse for any neglected promise or unfinished job. + +The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is only +celebrated in the principal towns, takes place about the middle of +July, and may be considered to be an exhibition of the different +trades, as the merchants and craftsmen of the country show the +choicest specimens of their wares and handicraft in a kind of trades' +procession. Like all the rest of their festivals it has a religious +signification, the people believing that misfortunes in business are +warded off by it. Upwards of five hundred trade trophies figure in one +of these processions, the imposing nature of which may be imagined +from the gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses depicted in the +illustration. The car in the foreground bears the trophy of the +wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of the most lucrative in Japan, +as the Japanese not only perpetuate their celebrities by wax-work +effigies, but the majority of the people, being professors of the +Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of the same material, called +'Kamis,' which are supposed to intercede on their behalf with the +Supreme Being. And this is in addition to regular wax-work +exhibitions, which are very popular, and the sale of toys which are +hawked about the country by travelling dealers. + +[Illustration: Travelling Merchant (Native Drawing.)] + +[Illustration: OTINTA LAMA.] + +The merchants have a general right of _entrée_ to all parts of the +town on these occasions. In the illustration, the procession is +passing through the official quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace +forming the subject of the background. They halt from time to time in +their progress, which is enlivened by songs descriptive of their +various callings, and the beating of huge drums, and blowing of +strange discordant instruments. There is a kind of analogy between our +industrial exhibitions and these festivals; and, whatever the purpose +may be for which they were originated, it is plain that they admirably +represent the industry, wealth, and resources of the country. + +'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is laughed at by some, and +believed by others to inhabit certain miniature temples, which are +crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as that bird is supposed to +be his favourite incarnation. On holidays and festivals, his temples +are frequently carried about on the shoulders of his votaries, who are +generally the most ignorant and superstitious of the people. This is +always a subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who crowd round +the temples and oppose their progress, and indulge in witticisms at +the expense of the divinity and his bearers. This sometimes leads to a +disturbance, but only when the parties concerned have been indulging +too freely in their favourite saki. + +[Illustration: Saki-drunk. (Native drawing.)] + +The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in times of +drought or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case being brought +out and exposed to the sun, and in the other sprinkled with water, by +way of intimating the immediate necessity for his good offices. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + +Fires are necessarily frequent, as the majority of the houses are +constructed of wood; and such dangerous articles as paper-lanterns, +small charcoal fire-boxes, and movable open stoves, for household +purposes, are in common use. The candles burnt in the paper-lanterns +render them extremely dangerous, as they are fixed by a socket inside +the lower end of the candle, which fits on a peg in the +lantern--generally very loosely; and as they flare a great deal, very +little wind or motion will cause a conflagration. Fires are, mostly +attributed, however, to the 'chebache,' or small charcoal fire-box, +which is used for smoking purposes. It is placed on a small stand in +the middle of the thickly-matted rooms, the smokers sitting round +drinking saki, and occasionally filling their small pipes. Their +method of smoking, like all the rest of their habits, is remarkably +peculiar; for, after inhaling a few whiffs, the smoker invariably +knocks out the half-consumed remnant on the 'chebache,' and, presently +refilling, commences another pipe, and so on, two or three times in +succession, rarely troubling himself about the ashes of the last, +which the slightest current of air may carry unperceived to smoulder +in the combustible flooring. + +[Illustration: A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE.] + +Fires occur frequently, notwithstanding the great precautions which +are taken for their prevention. Town and country are divided into +districts, for which certain of the inhabitants are responsible. Each +of these has its alarum, with observatory and regular watchers; while +every guard-house is provided with a supply of ladders, buckets, and +other necessary implements. Whenever a gale is coming on, the +'Yoshongyee and Kanabo,' or 'watch and fire look-outs,' who on +ordinary occasions only go their rounds by night, parade the towns +with rattles and clanking iron instruments, as a warning to the people +to keep their fires low. + +They have numerous fire-brigades, which are well organized, and +remarkably efficient. In the illustration one of them is seen hurrying +along the street to the place of action. On the right, a watchman is +striking an alarum, and another may be noticed, half-way up an +observatory in the distance, pointing out the direction of the fire. +The white building on the other side of the street is a fire-proof +storehouse, in which the public documents and valuables of the +district are deposited whenever a fire breaks out in it. + +[Illustration: Yoshongyee and Kanabo. (Native drawing.)] + +A Japanese 'Shecase,' or fire-brigade, passing silently along the +streets, lighted by its weird red-and-black distinguishing lanterns, +is a strange sight. Some of its members wear armour, with helmets and +black-lacquered iron visors, and carry 'martoe,' or 'fire-charms,' and +various necessary implements; others are clad in head-and-shoulder +pieces and gauntlets of light chain-armour, to protect them while +pulling down and unroofing houses, which is their especial duty. All +have a regular fire costume, from the 'Oki Yaconin,' or 'head man,' to +the bare-legged coolie, who carries the badge of the brigade in large +red characters on his back. On arriving at a fire, a _point de tête_ +is selected--generally a house, on the roof of which the fire-charms +are immediately fixed, as if to forbid its further advance. These +charms (the circular white objects with black mouldings) have, of +course, as little effect on one element as Canute's celebrated +command had on another; but the people put such faith in their virtue +that their presence is a powerful auxiliary in prescribing the limits +of fires, which are rarely allowed to pass the bounds marked out by +them. The firemen fight with the flames as they close on the charms, +like men determined to stand by their colours to the last, rushing +into the burning houses, pulling them down, and drenching the blazing +thatch, with great courage and endurance. When, by thus putting their +shoulder to the wheel, the fire is fairly subdued, they turn round and +point exultingly to the martoe as the Hercules that has procured the +result. On one occasion, at a fire in the village of Omura, adjoining +Yokahama, the charms and their supporters were actually licked by the +flames from the house opposite to that on which they were fixed, whose +thatched roof was pulled off while in a state of rampant ignition by +fire-coolies, who with bare hands, and no other protection than their +saturated clothing, fought with the actual fire. One plucky fellow +fell through the roof while thus employed, and, as the spectators +still shuddered at his anticipated fate, rushed out apparently +uninjured, and, re-ascending, resumed his fiery task with unabated +vigour. Although the fire-charms were triumphant on this occasion, +they did not escape unscorched, and several engines had to be kept in +constant play upon them and their supporters, to prevent the one from +ignition, and the other from being baked in their armour like crabs in +their shells. + +The engines in present use are made of wood, and, though simple, are +efficient in damping the roofs of houses (which, being tiled with thin +squares of wood, are very inflammable), putting out embers, and +playing upon the firemen, who, as already indicated, prefer being +stewed to being roasted. The Japanese, however, are thoroughly aware +of the superiority of our engines, which will probably soon take the +place of their own, as the people are singularly quick in availing +themselves of anything useful. + +The townspeople generally calculate on being burnt out once in every +seven years, and whenever this calamity falls upon them, no time is +lost in rebuilding. For instance, in December, 1864, a fragment of +blazing wood, from a fire which destroyed the United Service Club at +Yokohama, was blown across to the village of Omura before alluded to, +which was half burnt down, greatly endangering the General Small-Pox +Hospital and the huts of the Royal Marine Battalion in its rear. But +early next morning, while the embers of the old houses were still +smoking, new ones were in course of erection, and before night some of +the industrious occupants were fairly roofed in afresh.[2] + +[Footnote 2: As an illustration of the spirit which characterises +British merchants in their intercourse with the Japanese, it may be +mentioned that a liberal subscription was promptly got up for the +re-establishment of these burnt-out villagers; but, although the +Japanese Government seemed thoroughly to appreciate the kindly spirit +in which it was offered, national pride came in the way of its +acceptance, and the people were only induced to waive their objection +on its being urgently pressed upon them that the fire which destroyed +the Foreigners' Club was the cause of the calamity.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DOMESTIC LIFE. + + +It is impossible to mark the even and peaceable tenor of Japanese +life, the politeness, industry, respect for superiors, and general air +of cheerfulness and content, that pervades all classes, without +admiration of the wise regulations which preserve such order amongst +them as a people. Quarrels and blows are almost unknown in families; +the husband is gentle, the wife exemplary and affectionate, and the +children singularly obedient and reverent to their parents: yet 'Spare +the rod and spoil the child' is a precept totally disregarded. The +children are never beaten, nor do the parents allow themselves to lose +their tempers in rebuking them, however great the provocation may +be--one remarkable result of the complete self-abnegation inculcated +by their social system. + +[Illustration: A JAPANESE WEDDING.] + +The relative position of father and son is very striking. From an +early age the latter enjoys the entire confidence of the former, who +not only treats him as a grown-up person, but frequently refers +disputed matters to his arbitration, invariably abiding by his +decision. Again, on a son's arriving at manhood, the parents often +resign their property in his favour, relying on him, with a confidence +rarely misplaced, for maintenance during the remainder of their lives; +and so sacred is this trust considered, that in case of the son's +demise it devolves indisputably on his wife and children. So far, what +could be more promising? But, alas! like everything else, Japanese +life has a dark side, and in this case it consists of a repulsive +custom, which permits indigent parents to sell their daughters for a +term of years into a state of bondage, for purposes of the most +degrading nature. This possibility more than counterbalances all the +brighter features of their domestic economy. Generally speaking, when +young girls find themselves a burden to their parents, they seek +employment in the tea-houses, where they are well looked after and +instructed in various accomplishments, for which they serve a certain +apprenticeship, and at its expiration generally marry, as girls so +educated are eagerly sought after. + +There are two forms of marriage, either of which is legally binding. +One is a religious, and the other a civil contract, not very +dissimilar from our marriage by the registrar, saving that the bride's +parents sign for her. Whichever form is used, the parents receive a +sum of money from the bridegroom; but in neither case is the husband +supposed to see the face of his bride until all due formalities have +been performed. The religious ceremony takes place in a temple: the +pair, after listening to a lengthy harangue from one of the attendant +priests, approach the altar, where large tapers are presented to them; +the bride, instructed by the priest, lights her taper at the sacred +censer on the altar, and the bridegroom, igniting his from hers, +allows the two flames to combine, and burn steadily together, thus +symbolizing the perfect unity of the marriage state; and this +completes the ceremonial. + +The illustration represents the private ratification of the civil +contract, which is a simple form, by which the parties take upon +themselves the respective duties of husband and wife. The veiled +figure in white is the 'hanna-yomie,' or 'bride,' in the act of +acknowledging the 'hanna-moko,' or 'bridegroom' (who sits opposite to +her in an official dress), by partaking of the nuptial saki. This +'saki,' or 'wine,' is prepared by two intimate female friends of the +bride, who first pour it into the gold and silver lacquer vessels on +the stand, which respectively represent the husband and wife, and +then, taking the vessels in hand, mix the contents in a cup, and +deliver it to the 'shewarin,' or 'master of the ceremonies,' who hands +it to the bride, and then to the bridegroom, and both partake of the +contents, which act constitutes the marriage. + +Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki they do not +attend on the bride. Such offices as are required are performed by a +married couple, the shewarin and his wife. It is they who make the +necessary arrangements, and provide the pheasants that appear in the +recess; which signify that the hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant, +will always jealously guard his charmer, who, like the shy hen-bird, +will readily respond to the call of her mate. + +[Illustration: A Dose of Moxa. (Native drawing.)] + +A more practical idea of the requirements of married life may be +deduced from the annexed woodcut, representing the application of +moxa, which is very commonly used as a remedy for rheumatism, and to +promote circulation. + +Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in their +houses; and when other occupations fail them, the spinning-wheel, or +loom, is brought out, and materials for clothing their families are +prepared. In the country, the women share equally with their husbands +and children in agricultural labours; early and late whole families +may be seen in the paddy-fields transplanting rice, or superintending +its irrigation, for which the undulating nature of the country affords +great facility. + +[Illustration: Transplanting Rice. (Native drawing.)] + +Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they have always a +cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under extremely irritating +circumstances, as they are greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in +the paddy-fields. + +The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation of the +soil is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with surprise on the +luxuriant crops of cereals, roots, and vegetables; and this is solely +owing to the care taken in preparing the soil, which is not naturally +productive. Weeds are never to be met with in the fields, which, +however, from the constant manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet +fresh smell of our own. + +With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese who +cannot read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling they use +computing slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which they quickly +settle the amount to be paid. They do not, except in the higher +classes, receive what we understand by a general or scientific +education, the members of each trade or profession being only +instructed in what pertains to their own affairs--a fact the inquiring +stranger soon discovers. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY. + + +The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal princes, +called Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their respective +provinces, but subject to the general control of one of their number, +(selected from one of three great families), called the 'Tycoon,' who, +assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great Council,' presides over the affairs +of the state in the name of the 'Mikado,' or 'Spiritual Emperor,' its +supreme head. + +The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the +disturbances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance lies +in possessing the power of issuing decrees, bestowing titles, and +delegating authority to others; and princes discontented with the +Tycoon are constantly intriguing against his legitimate influence with +the Mikado. For instance: an attempt was made in 1864 by a powerful +coalition, headed by Choisiu, prince of Nangato, to obtain possession +of the Mikado's person. This was only prevented after a severe +struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose care the +palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict a large +portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT.] + +The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require his +presence elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of the city, +and is surrounded by grounds several miles in circumference, and +enclosed by a deep moat. It is there that he receives the compulsory +visits of the grandees of the empire, one of whom, on the point of +being ushered into the audience-chamber, is shown opposite, in his +robes of ceremony, and attended by a sword-bearer, in token of his +high rank. The bonze, or priest, who precedes him, does not impart any +religious signification to the visit, as priests commonly act in the +double capacity of spy and master of the ceremonies. The screen, which +forms the background of the illustration is worthy of attention, as +its subject is taken from the Japanese mythology, and represents the +great sun-god from whom Ten-zio-dai-zin, the patron goddess of the +empire, sprang. + +In public, these oligarchical princes are invariably surrounded by all +the pomp of feudal state, and when they travel are escorted by large +bodies of retainers. At Kanagawa, which adjoins the settlement of +Yokohama, the foreigner has frequent opportunities of witnessing their +processions as they pass to and fro along the 'tokaido,' or 'great +public road,' when they are going on their compulsory visits to Yeddo +from their own country palaces. Nor is much danger attached to this, +as the passing of Daimios whom it would be dangerous to meet on the +tokaido, is always notified by the authorities to the consul. On +witnessing a Daimio's procession for the first time, it is hard to +realise that it is not a scene from some gorgeous pantomime, ao +brilliant and varied are the costumes of the retainers, and so totally +different is it from anything which European eyes are accustomed to +gaze upon. But should anything excite the risible faculties of the +observer, his hallucinations are likely to be quickly scattered by the +scowls of the resolute-looking fellows passing by with 'hand on +sword,' needing but little encouragement to 'set a glory' to it, 'by +giving it the worship of revenge,' as they are extremely jealous of +the honour of their prince, and regard the presence of foreigners on +the tokaido at such times as an insult. This circumstance is also +rendered more galling by foreigners sitting coolly on their horses by +the road-side as the great man passes, generally in a low norimon, on +which they must necessarily look down--in contradiction to Japanese +etiquette, which permits no inferior to look down upon a +superior--while the people of the country are either abjectly +kowtowing to him or patiently waiting in their closed houses until his +passing shall set them once more at liberty. + +A review given the by two ministers for foreign affairs to Sir +Rutherford Alcock, shortly before his departure, was a very imposing +spectacle. The approach of the ministers was announced by the beating +of drums (which are sometimes carried on the shoulder and struck by +the palm of the hand) and the blowing of conch-shells, each instrument +being sounded three times in succession, at short intervals. Men in +armour carrying banners, bearing the Tycoon's crest, headed the +procession. They were followed by a large drum in a square case, +carried by two men, and the conch-blowers; then came a number of +spearmen in armour; officers on horseback immediately preceding the +ministers. On arriving at the ground they dismounted, and were +received by Sir Rutherford Alcock, the remainder of their retinue +passing on and forming in rear of the others, to the left of the +English garrison, consisting of the second battalion of the 20th +Regiment, the Royal Marine battalion, and detachments of Royal +Artillery, of the 67th Regiment, and Beloochees, who were drawn up in +brigade in honour of the occasion. At the request of the ministers the +garrison marched past and performed a few manoeuvres, concluding with +discharging blank cartridge in squares and in skirmishing order. The +rapidity of the fire appeared to make a great impression on them. This +over, the Japanese performance commenced; which was a representation +of their ancient order of battle, the retainers dividing and forming +in lines opposite one another, and about one hundred yards apart. The +proceedings were conducted by two marshals on foot; they began by +forming the spearmen in line, with emphatic guttural commands, +stamping of the feet, and flourishing of gilt batons, to the end of +which wisps of paper were attached. All were habited in magnificent +armour: some wore complete suits of mail; others chain armour, lined +with gorgeous silks. Broad lacquered hats were here and there +substituted for helmets; or both were dispensed with, and the temples +of the combatants bound with linen cloth, which is their usual +headdress in action. Presently a signal was given, on which the +opposing lines commenced simultaneously to 'mark line double.' At a +second signal they faced into Indian file, and the marshals, placing +themselves at their head, led them off at a swinging trot, the whole +party flinging up their heels like boys playing at 'follow my leader,' +until startling guttural shouts from the marshals caused the +glittering lines to halt and face each other. The horsemen, who had +hitherto taken no part in the pageant, were now stationed in rear of +the centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the effect by +their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour, and the heraldic +banners, which were attached to the back of the cuirass and floated +about two feet over their heads. As soon as the horsemen were +stationed the exciting part of the sham-fight began, by the lines +being wheeled backwards and forwards in wings from the centre, and +into zigzag formations from central points, with a slow 'stamp-and-go' +march, the spears being flourished with each motion and pointed high +and low, and right and left, as in our bayonet exercise. The marshals +regulated the movements of their respective lines with great accuracy, +the one being retired directly the other advanced, so that the +relative distance was never altered. After a time both parties +suddenly assumed a sitting posture and exchanged howls of defiance, +which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a simultaneous rush, as if to +engage, finished the performance from which the representatives of +barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty cheers of the representatives +of the bayonet and rifle. + +[Illustration: A Daimio Retainer. (Native Drawing.)] + +Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are surrounded +by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the country so +trammels their actions with formalities and espionage as to keep them +in considerable subjection to the Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of +their houses respected, for their families are retained in Yeddo, as +hostages for their good behaviour, while they are absent in their +principalities. As an occasional relaxation from the cares attendant +on their high position, they avail themselves of a privilege called +'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the pleasures and +amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings and coloured +representations of scenes connected with the higher classes which so +largely engross the attention of Japanese artists, generally depict +naiboen intrigues and adventures: these convey, however, a very +exaggerated idea of the manner in which the Daimios conduct themselves +on these occasions. + +[Illustration: Coolies carrying Norimon. (From Native Drawing.)] + +The family in the house-boat witnessing a pyrotechnic display in the +bay of Yeddo, may be regarded as a faithful representation of a +Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen. The great man in his light summer +robe has apparently cast aside the cares of office, and seems +thoroughly to enjoy the cool evening breeze and the society of his +wives, only one of whom has a legal claim to that title, by right of +which she takes precedence of the others. Of the two bonzes, or +priests, in the stem of the boat, one, probably, is a member of the +family, and the other its spy, for even naiboen excursions are not +exempted from espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this +custom that they generally regard it as a necessary check upon +themselves. Naiboen excursions to the tea-houses are very frequent, +notice being sent previously in order to insure proper accommodation +and privacy: the latter precaution being principally taken on account +of the ladies of the family, who never go beyond the palace except in +a norimon guarded by armed retainers. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS.] + +In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their habits as the +rest of the people. They are much given to study, the favourite +subjects being poetry,[3] history, astronomy, and logic. The children +are usually taught the rudiments of education by their mothers, and as +they advance in years, are either privately instructed by masters or +sent to the great schools at Miako, which are said to be attended by +upwards of four thousand scholars. + +[Footnote 3: A very interesting volume of translations of Japanese +Lyrical Odes has lately been published by F.V. Dickins, Esq. M.B.: +Smith, Elder, & Co.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE COURT OF THE MIKADO. + + +The spiritual Emperor of Japan is supposed to be a direct descendant +of the gods, and as such enjoys the adoration, as well as the fealty +of his subjects. Unfortunately, his divine attributes deprive him of +the free exercise of his human functions, as his feet are never +permitted to touch the ground out of doors; nor is he allowed to cut +his hair, beard, or nails, or to expose himself to the rays of the +sun, which, would detract from the excellency of his person. His +principal titles are, 'Zen Zi'--'Son of Heaven;' 'Mikado,'--'Emperor;' +and 'Dairi,' or 'Kinrai,'--'Grand Interior:' the latter denoting the +perpetual seclusion of his person. It is said that his ancestry can be +traced in an unbroken line from nearly 700 years before the Christian +era. + +The Mikado never goes beyond the precincts of the Imperial residence, +which occupies a large portion of the city of Miako, comprising +numerous palaces and gardens; and connected with it are the schools +alluded to in the last chapter, which are established on the plan of a +university, and are much resorted to by the children of the nobility. + +[Illustration: A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION.] + +Whenever this great personage wishes to take an airing, he is carried +by fourteen men in a large norimon with latticed windows, through +which he is able to see without being seen; and even when granting an +audience he is said to be concealed from view by bamboo screen-work. +His court consists of the members of his own family and certain great +officers of State appointed by the Tycoon, who nominally receive and +promulgate his commands; but, in ordinary times, he has no real power +in the temporal affairs of the empire, and only refuses to confer +legality on the acts of his lieutenant under the pressure of intrigue, +or of undue family influence. + +To relieve the wearisome monotony of his life, as well as to prevent +the possibility of the sacred race becoming extinct, he is allowed +twelve wives, who are chosen from the most beautiful daughters of the +chief princes of the empire. These ladies occupy separate palaces in +the immediate vicinity of his, where they are attended by their own +retainers; but only one of them enjoys the rank of empress, although +they are all treated with the deference due to royalty. He is also +said to have an unlimited number of concubines, who reside within the +bounds of the Imperial establishment. + +The distinctive mark of the members of the Mikado's court and of the +ladies of his family consists of two black patches placed on the +forehead, and in the arrangement of the hair, which is gathered up in +a long cue and curved over the head by one sex, and worn dishevelled +and without any kind of ornament by the other. Though the Mikado has +little influence in the secular affairs of state, his authority in +religious questions is supreme; but it is doubtful if he personally +takes any part in the solemnities which are constantly occurring at +Miako. + +The subject of illustration represents one of these sacred +observances: the procession is coming from the Mikado's palace, which, +properly speaking, is a temple, being full of idols and effigies of +the 'Kamis,' or 'canonised saints.' The principal figure is the third +minister of state, and from this circumstance the white dresses worn +by the 'Kargardhee,' or 'fire-bearers,' and the presence of some of +the Imperial children, it is probably a midnight pilgrimage to some +neighbouring shrine, in honour of the manes of a departed member of +the family. + +The early education of the Mikado's children is entrusted to the +ladies of the court: the sons, while still young, are sent to +different religious fraternities; and the daughters, on attaining a +suitable age, are bestowed in marriage on the nobles of the country, +except the eldest, who is appointed chief priestess of the temple of +the Sun at Issie, which contains the shrine of Ten-zio-dai-zin, to +which all Japanese are supposed to make a pilgrimage once in their +lifetime. + +The Mikado is said to spend the greatest portion of his time in the +society of his wives, who contribute to his amusement by singing, +dancing, and theatrical entertainments. The latter sometimes take +place in the open air, as in the scene depicted opposite; on which the +'Grand Interior' and a select party are supposed to be looking down +through the jalousies of the palace. The vocal, instrumental, and +theatrical talents of the performers, are here called into play, the +arena for the latter being the 'Mekoshee,' or movable stage, in which +a female figure may be noticed declaiming her part. The long-handled, +fantastically-coloured umbrellas, belong to the Imperial attendants +taking part in the theatricals, whose hair, it will be noticed, is +arranged according to court etiquette. + +[Illustration: A Begging Criminal. (Native Drawing.)] + +The men whose features are concealed by their broad hats are +'Ninsokee,' or 'public singers.' Generally speaking they belong to the +aristocratic class, and are reduced to earn their livelihood in this +manner in consequence of some misdemeanour, on account of which their +property has been forfeited to the state. Their occupation is in +itself a punishment, as Japanese gentlemen never sing, regarding that +accomplishment as derogatory to their dignity. A certain class of +criminals also wear a disguise of this nature, as shown in the +woodcut. + +[Illustration: THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE.] + +[Illustration: LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY +DANCE.] + +The band here represented is much stronger than those that generally +figure in Japanese orchestral and theatrical entertainments. Music is +not used, as with us, to fill the interval between the pieces, but +accompanies the performers throughout; the louder instruments being +energetically struck as the singing becomes impassioned or the actors +declamatory. + +The butterfly dance is another specimen of the amusements with which +the ladies of the Mikado's court while away their monotonous +existence. As here shown, it is a private performance, of which the +Empress and her principal attendants are the only spectators. The +insects are personated by two of her ladies, who mimic their motions +and sing praises of the different flowers they pretend to alight upon, +to the accompaniment of a band of fair musicians. But the most +interesting part of the affair is a spirited dialogue, in which they +cleverly criticise, under floral appellations, the different ladies of +the court, in a manner equally gratifying and flattering to their +royal mistress. + +[Illustration: Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)] + +The Mikado is always waited upon by the ladies of his court, and is +said never to eat twice from the same vessels, which are broken to +pieces as they are removed. An intelligent yaconin, however, on +being questioned about this point, was much amused; and, though he +professed ignorance of the subject, was evidently very sceptical on +the matter of the dishes. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +The 'HARA KIRU.' + + +Although we have long been aware of the existence of this peculiar +mode of suicide, the exclusive policy of the Japanese has placed +insuperable difficulties in the way of obtaining accurate information +concerning it. + +A more enlightened policy is now gaining ground in the country. The +chromo-lithographs that illustrate these 'Sketches' are fac-similes of +paintings by native artists, selected from a series lately published +at Yeddo, and sold to foreigners with the connivance, if not by +permission, of the authorities; for the spy system in Japan is so +perfect, that illicit dealings are next to impossible. + +As Japanese punishments entail disgrace on every member of the +culprit's family, the 'Hara Kiru,' or 'happy dispatch,' which is the +only exception, is regarded as a great privilege by the classes +entitled to avail themselves of it These consist of the nobility, +military, and official of a certain rank holding civil appointments. + +It seems to be a prevalent idea that this sacrifice is reserved for +political offences; but this is not the case, as crimes of all +descriptions are condoned by it. + +A simple act of suicide does not constitute the 'Hara Kiru.' To render +the act legal, and to ensure the heir and family of the person +performing it against disgrace and loss of property, an order for its +performance must be issued by the Tycoon, or by the suzerain prince of +the culprit. + +[Illustration: THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE.] + +The Japanese, being a high-spirited and patriotic people, consider +that death under any circumstances is preferable to dishonour; and the +privileged classes always carry about with them when they travel the +paraphernalia used at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru,' in token of +their readiness to prove their patriotism, or to die rather than +disgrace their family. + +The dress consists of a robe and 'harakama,' or 'winged official +dress,' of coarse white cloth--white being the funeral colour of the +country--which is undistinguished by the crest or any sign of the rank +of the owner. There is also the disembowelling knife, the blade of +which is about eight inches long, and very sharp. + +When the sentence of the 'Hara Kiru' is awarded, or the humble request +of a defeated politician to perform it is acceded to, a formal +document is made out and duly signed by the competent authorities. It +is then delivered to two commissioners, by whom it is conveyed to the +culprit. + +Should the proposed victim be a Daimio of importance, and sufficiently +powerful to set the Tycoon at defiance, the delivery of the imperial +mandate is likely to be attended with unpleasant results, as the +bearers are sometimes waylaid and murdered by retainers of the doomed +prince, and have frequently to resort to stratagem to accomplish their +task. But when once the mandate is delivered, the prince must submit, +or he would lose caste even with his own followers, so strongly are +the Japanese imbued with respect for the ancient customs of their +country. + +The accompanying illustrations represent the different formalities +that are observed at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru' by a Daimio. + +On receiving the official intimation of his sentence, he orders the +necessary preparations to be made, and informs his friends and +relatives of it, inviting them to share in a parting carouse with him. + +On the appointed day, after taking a private farewell of his family, +he receives his friends. He is habited in his white robes, and +supported by two of his relatives or ministers, similarly attired. +When the time arrives (which is previously arranged with the +commissioners) he takes leave of the guests, as on any ordinary +occasion, and enters the screened enclosure, accompanied by his +supporters. It will be noticed, that the retainers guarding the +exterior and entrance are barefooted, which is a mark of respect in +honour of the rank of the culprit, and of the solemnity of the +occasion. + +The Tycoon's messengers then read the imperial mandate, which +proclaims that, in accordance with the ancient custom of the country, +the Daimio is permitted honourably to sacrifice himself for its +benefit, and thus to expiate in his own person the crime or offence he +has committed against the welfare of the state. In the illustration, +the two officials charged with this disagreeable office are sitting +opposite the Daimio and his friends, reading the fatal document, their +suite surrounding them in respectful attitudes. + +The whole party wear the official dress, which intimates at once the +respect due to the victim and the official nature of the ceremony. + +The second scene shows the Daimio on the point of performing the +sacrificial ceremony. His forelock is reversed, as a sign of +submission to his fate, and to assist the executioner, who, as soon as +his master goes through the form of disembowelling himself with the +knife on the stand, will, with one blow of his razor-edged sword, +complete the sacrifice by decapitation. Only the two chief +commissioners appointed by the Tycoon, and the sorely-tasked +supporters of the victim, remain to witness the last act of the drama. +The rest of the party await its completion in the adjoining +compartment of the enclosure, which is expressly constructed for that +purpose. + +The funeral procession, which is the subject of the next scene, is +accompanied by all the pomp indicative of the high position of the +deceased. The mourners wear robes of white cloth, and all the feudal +paraphernalia are draped with the same material; which, as before +mentioned, is used in Japanese mourning. The coffin is carried near +the head of the procession; it is a square box of resinous wood, +covered over with white, and the body is placed in it in a sitting +posture. + +[Illustration: THE SACRIFICE.] + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL.] + +[Illustration: CREMATION OF THE BODY.] + +[Illustration: RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES.] + +All the members of the family attend the funeral, either on foot or +in norimons. If the wife and the heir be absent in Yeddo, they are +represented by the nearest relations. In this instance both are +present, from which it may be inferred that the sacrificial act has +taken place in the neighbourhood of Yeddo. + +Although the Japanese sometimes bury their dead, they generally +practise cremation. Repulsive as this custom is to European ideas, it +must be remembered that the Japanese are not singular in preferring +it, as several of the most civilised nations of antiquity considered +it the most honourable mode of disposing of the bodies of the dead. +While the body is being reduced to ashes the priests tell their beads +and chant prayers for the soul of the departed, as the followers of +almost every religious sect in Japan believe in a state of purgatory. + +The last scene shows the wife and son of the victim of the 'Hara Kiru' +collecting his ashes and depositing them in an earthenware jar. This +is afterwards sealed down and conveyed to the cemetery, or temple, +which contains the remains of his ancestors. + +Some of the Japanese cemeteries are very extensive; and they are +generally situated in secluded, picturesque spots, in the +neighbourhood of the towns and villages. + +The graves are small, round, cemented receptacles; just large enough +to receive the jar containing the ashes. If the body is buried (which +only happens when the deceased is friendless, or too poor to pay the +expenses of cremation), the head is always placed pointing to the +north. The tombstones are ordinarily about three feet high; and are +either square or circular in shape, resting on square pedestals, in +which small holes are cut to contain rice and water. The supplies of +these are replenished from time to time, generally by the women of the +family, lest the spirit of the deceased should revisit its grave and +imagine itself neglected. Sometimes flowers are placed before the +graves, and flowering sprigs of peach and plum are stuck in the ground +about them. + +Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to propitiate the +deities in favour of their departed relatives; and the neighbourhood +of a graveyard may generally he detected by the peculiar aromatic +odour emitted during the burning of these. For some time after a +funeral the relatives daily visit the tomb and intercede for the dead, +holding their hands up in the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the +palms together as they mutter their monotonous orisons. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS. + + +Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they are great +lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to sight-seeing; theatres and +wax-work exhibitions are very numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and +tumblers, are regular _habitués_ of the streets. + +Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business, they do not +hesitate to associate it with religious observances; and on solemn +festival occasions, the vicinity of even the most sacred temples is +occupied by a variety of shows and common stalls, for the sale of +sweetmeats, toys, and coloured pictures. + +Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may he regarded +as the national game of the country. It is very generally practised, +and pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be frequently met with of an +evening in the outskirts of towns and villages, either crouched down +in the preliminary attitude, which resembles that of angry +fighting-cocks, or dragging one another to and fro like frogs +struggling over a choice morsel. The game is necessarily a dragging +and pulling one, its grand object being to force the opponent beyond a +certain boundary. + +So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who travel +about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios keep private +bands: each district has some especial champion; and every Japanese a +favourite '_smoo_' as they term the wrestlers, whose exploits are +canvassed with an enthusiasm totally at variance with the stolid +indifference which usually characterises the people, when any subject +is broached that does not directly concern their ordinary vocations. + +The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean proportions. +From constant practice they attain a muscular development that would +eclipse that of our prize-ring champions; but their paunchy figures +and sluggish movements render any further comparison impossible, as +they neither practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and +weight are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which +their performances are confined: so, instead of walking down +superabundant flesh, they endeavour to increase it, dieting themselves +on rice and fish, which is far from productive of any Bantingite +result. The illustration of the Great Wrestling Amphitheatre at Yeddo +conveys a fair idea of the estimation in which athletic games are held +by the Japanese. The enclosure is capable of containing several +thousand spectators, and is always filled when a match of importance +takes place. + +In the centre is the '_docho_,' or 'boundary-ring,' which is about +eighteen feet in diameter. The game is generally decided by one or +other of the combatants being forced against this boundary; for, +although a fair throw counts, it rarely decides the mastery, as the +great weight and the crouching position of the wrestlers necessitate +dragging, pushing, and even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp +is such, that any other results are almost impossible. + +The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low; and, like +everything else of a public nature, is regulated by the government +Officials are appointed to superintend the arrangements, and to see +that no accidents arise from overcrowding. For this purpose they are +provided with a box that overlooks the whole building. + +The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage, from +which the commencement and duration of each match are intimated to the +audience by a certain number of strokes on the drum that surmounts it. + +[Illustration: PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO.] + +Before each wrestling-match commences, the 'geogee,' or 'judge,' who +superintends it, shouts out the names and exploits of the contenders, +who, after kowtowing very ceremoniously to one another, rise to the +preliminary attitude. + +At a signal from the judge the combatants commence. At first they move +cautiously about the centre of the ring, watching a favourable +opportunity to close, which they presently do with deep guttural +exclamations. Then great working of muscle and tugging and straining +follow, the spectators cheering on their respective favourites, until +the fall of the geogee's fan--which is the moment depicted by the +artist--proclaims the victor. + +Thundering plaudits greet the hero of the occasion, who presently +strolls about among the assembled multitude, attended by his 'coegi,' +or 'servant,' who collects the offerings with which they liberally +reward his exertions. When money fails, articles of clothing are +frequently bestowed--and sometimes too freely, as it is by no means +unusual for both sexes to half denude themselves at these exhibitions; +and it is a favourite joke with the women to send their male friends +to redeem the articles from the wrestler. + +Although fencing is a military exercise, it is so commonly practised +by the Japanese 'yaconinierie,' or 'soldiery,' who comprise a large +portion of the population, and is entered into by them in so spirited +a manner, that it deserves to be classed as an amusement. + +[Illustration: Yaconins fencing.] + +The woodcut is a very faithful representation of yaconins fencing. The +masks cover the whole of the head; and the arms, breast, and hips, are +protected by cuirass, petticoat, &c. of leather ribbed with bamboo. + +The fencing sticks are of the same length as the +'obi-todee-auf-catana,' or 'great fighting-sword.' They are made of +split canes, bound tightly together, and are used with both hands. + +The Japanese fence well, and deliver their points with great +precision, especially an awkward downward thrust at the breast. + +They deliver their cuts and points with fierce guttural exclamations, +which are peculiarly disagreeable to European ears; especially when +the listener is located in the vicinity of a guard-house, whose +occupants notify their employment at daybreak with such cries as +'Hie-e! Ah-h! Atturah-h!' ('That's at! that's into you!') and continue +this information, accompanied by the clashing of their sticks, and +occasional chuckles, until late in the afternoon. + +The Japanese are great frequenters of the theatres, of the interior of +one of which the illustration is a very good representation--the +exterior is generally very like that of the temples; and in some, the +ground-floor is laid out with miniature lakes and bridges, the +audience looking down on the performance from lateral and opposite +galleries. + +The stage is a little smaller than ours, but sometimes has a promenade +through the centre of the theatre, which facilitates by-play, to which +the Japanese attach great importance. The body of the house is divided +into boxes, which are generally taken by family parties, who bring +their provisions with them and remain all day, as the performances +begin about 10 A.M. and last until late in the evening. Their plays +are very tedious, although enlivened by a good deal of smart +_repartée_ and telling jokes, but the morality even of the most +correct is very questionable. Love, of course, is the prevailing +feature; and the adventures of the principal heroes contain enough +bloodshed and murder to satisfy the most ardent admirer of sensation +dramas. In their hand-to-hand encounters they cut and slash at one +another with naked swords, which they manage very skilfully, never +permitting the blades to come into contact. The female parts are +performed by boys and young men, who, with the assistance of paint and +powder, make admirable substitutes for women, though singing and +dancing-girls are frequently introduced as divertissements. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A THEATRE.] + +[Illustration: Getting ready to go to the Theatre.] + +Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and childhood +may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at soaring monsters, in +the construction of which great ingenuity is displayed. + +The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a quarter of the +size of ours; and they are much given to gambling, although it is +strictly prohibited, and, when detected, severely punished. But the +most popular in-door game is & sort of combination of draughts and +chess, which frequently engrosses the players for hours at a time. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS. + + +Crimes against property are rare in Japan, which is owing to the +high-spirited and honourable feelings that actuate all classes of the +community; but from the feudal nature of the government, the small +value attached to life, and the deadly weapons constantly carried, by +the military classes, who are notoriously proud and revengeful, crimes +against the person are very frequent. + +A great check upon criminal offences is the severity of the +punishments inflicted, and the disgrace entailed upon the culprit's +family. + +Although the laws are extremely severe, and in their administration +there is neither jury nor counsel, justice is delivered with great +impartiality; and the judge, who is generally the governor of the town +or district in which the offence has been committed, is entrusted with +considerable discretionary power. + +When a prisoner is being examined his arms are bound to his sides by a +rope, which also passes round his neck, the end of which is held by an +official, who, if his charge prove unruly, manages him by pulls and +jerks. + +'Thrashemono,' or 'public exposure,' is associated with all Japanese +punishments, and is said to be in itself a great preventive of crime, +as the spirited Japanese dread being held up to the reprobation of +their acquaintance more than they fear the extreme penalty of the law. + +[Illustration: MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION.] + +The illustration, showing the mode of conducting a criminal to +execution, is an instance of 'thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a +horse, and is preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or +neighbours, and indicating his crime. In this manner he is conducted +through the town to the place of execution, where his sentence is read +to him. He is then placed (with his limbs still bound) over a +freshly-dug hole, where he is supported by his relatives till the +executioner's sword performs its task. + +After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally exposed: that +of Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in the presence of the +British garrison of Yokohama, for being the organizer of the +assassination of Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird of Her Majesty's +20th Regiment) was exhibited on the public stand at the guard-house at +the entrance of the town. + +This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a most +determined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of crime. + +When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding his +execution, he conducted himself with great bravado, remarking on the +improvements in the town since he last visited it, and expressing his +regret that he had not killed a consul. + +At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in which he +declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had studied the arts +and sciences, and never believed the government would sacrifice a +Japanese for the death of a foreigner. He said that the days would +come when they would repent the encouragement they were now giving to +strangers; and ended by complimenting the executioner on his +well-known skill. + +The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus ably +described by the highest authority on Japanese matters:[4]-- + +'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who are of his +family, or claim his protection, when any of his people are resolved +upon a desperate enterprise they formally renounce the protection and +declare themselves "lonins;"--in other words, outlaws, or friendless +men: after which no one is responsible for their acts, and this is +considered a highly honourable and proper thing to do. + +[Footnote 4: Sir Rutherford Alcock. See 'Capital of the Tycoon.'] + +The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or assisting a +lonin endangers his head; and such men are, therefore, compelled to +resort to robbery and extortion as means of supporting themselves. It +generally happens that this legalised method of taking the law into +their own hands drives those who avail themselves of it into a series +of crimes, and frequently they become the associates of common +thieves. + +Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a rich +merchant's house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest being +thieves in disguise. + +The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords plainly +intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm, or to offer +resistance to their demands, have apparently been collecting all the +money in the house and are laying it before the thieves. The oblong +boxes are iron safes, in which the Japanese keep their money. + +From the position of the other members of the gang, it is evident that +they have not got all they require, and are watching something going +on in the interior of the house. They have probably learnt that the +merchant has to forward some money for the purchase of goods by a +certain date, and know exactly how much to expect. + +In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the Yeddo +merchants, congratulated them on the fact that the portion of the +country under his immediate control was exempt from the depredations +of lonins; but notwithstanding this statement, a robbery of the nature +described took place in the capital immediately after the issue of the +Tycoon's manifesto, and a lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for +his conduct, that he had learnt that the money was intended for +foreigners, who were settled in the country in opposition to the laws +of Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked. + +With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant classes, +that it frequently happens that one or two will go into a village and +extort what they require without the slightest resistance being +offered. + +[Illustration: LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE.] + +[Illustration: EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY.] + +As a rule, Japanese punishments resemble those inflicted by the +Chinese, and seem to be based on the Mosaic principle of 'an eye for +an eye and a tooth for a tooth.' Arson, for instance, is punished at +the stake; and a thief who endeavours to conceal the results of his +robberies by burying them, has the disadvantages of that mode of +concealment impressed upon him, by being himself embedded for a day or +two in the ground, with only his head out--a mode of instruction that +rarely requires a repetition of the lesson. + +_Apropos_ of this punishment is the testimony of an eye-witness, who, +in passing the public execution place at Yeddo, noticed a head on the +ground, which he supposed to have been recently struck off. He had +turned away with a shudder, when a laugh from the bystanders caused +him to look again, when, to his great astonishment, the head was +vigorously puffing at a pipe which the facetious executioner had a few +moments before been smoking himself. + +The last illustration shows a man and woman undergoing public exposure +for adultery--a crime which is rare in Japan and which is punished +with great severity. + +With such detestation is it regarded, that, in addition to all legal +cognizance, the husband is permitted, in certain instances, to avenge +himself by taking the lives of the offenders upon the spot. + +The board on the right contains the official intimation of the crime. + +The curious instruments depicted in the woodcut are Japanese emblems +of justice and are to be seen at all the guard-houses; they are used +to catch runaway offenders or to pin a drunken yaconin against a wall +or house, and so facilitate the task of disarming him without danger +to the captors. + +[Illustration: Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo.] + +Although the Japanese use torture to extract information from +obstinate criminals, they employ all necessary caution to preserve +life; and a doctor and responsible officer are always present when it +is employed, as representatives of the respective claims of humanity +and justice. A singular punishment, to which only the nobles of the +country are liable, is secret banishment to the island of Fatzisiu, +which is situated on the northern coast of the empire. It is small and +barren, rising perpendicularly from the sea. The only communication +with it is by means of a basket, which is lowered from an overhanging +tree to the water, a distance of about fifty feet.[5] From this island +there is no return, and the unhappy, incarcerated nobles, are +compelled to support themselves by weaving silks, which are the most +beautiful the country produces. A junk visits the island once a-year, +when the silks are exchanged for provisions. + +[Footnote 5: In 1853 an English man-of-war visited this island, and +two of the officers were hoisted up in the basket for the purpose of +taking sights. One of them, who was my informant, describes it as a +walled-in barren island, with no other mode of ingress or egress than +that described.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES. + + +The Sintoo faith and Buddhism are the prevalent religions of the +Japanese. The teaching of the other sects is modelled more or less on +the tenets inculcated by these two. Some, however, hold a philosophic +doctrine, which recognises a Supreme Being but denies a future state, +holding that happiness is only to be insured by a virtuous life. + +Sintooism may be regarded as the national religion of the country. It +inculcates a high moral standard; and its chief personage is the +Mikado, or spiritual emperor, who is considered to be a mediator +between his subjects and the inhabitants of the other world. + +Every Sintoo has the image of a patron 'kami,' or 'saint,' enshrined +in his house, to which he lays open his necessities and confesses his +shortcomings, and by whose intercession with the Supreme Being he +trusts at his death to be translated to the regions of the 'kamis,' as +they designate their heaven. + +The wicked are supposed to be consigned to the abodes of the +disembodied spirits, who are punished according to the nature of their +crimes. For instance, saki merchants who have sold bad spirit are +believed to be confined in stagnant pools; and murderers are supposed +to haunt the graves of their victims, until the prayers of their +relatives release them. Purity of life and body is the leading feature +of the Sintoo faith. As an emblem of the natural purity of the soul, +mirrors are hung up in the temples; and the more ignorant people (who +in Japan, like every other country, are most influenced by +superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror, that the Supreme +Being sees their past lives as easily as they do their own faces. The +value attached to indulgences and charms is very great, and the sale +of them contributes largely to the revenues of the Mikado. Charms are +eagerly purchased by the lower orders, who carry them about their +persons, and never let anybody touch them except themselves. + +At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was accidentally +dropped by a lively little 'moosmie,' or 'girl,' who was waiting on a +party of foreigners. One of them picked it up, and was on the point of +opening the small box in which it is placed for safety when she +discovered the loss, and made a desperate rush for its recovery. On +finding the importance attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, +was handed round the group as she eagerly darted after it; and on one +of the party pretending to light a cigar with it she burst into tears, +and was not to be pacified until it was restored. + +A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese is +'Osurasma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they wisely +consider that even the most holy must have some small peccadilloes to +answer for. + +This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death: a white +lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of the mourners' +houses, while they offer oblations and burn joss-sticks. Food is also +prepared and laid out, in case the spirit of the departed, finding the +journey to the regions of the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should +need refreshment. + +No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the white lamp +is hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy of a family +engaged in these solemn duties, as the spirits of the departed are +firmly believed to revisit their former dwellings at such times, if +they have not already entered into a state of bliss. + +[Illustration: SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION.] + +[Illustration: PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY.] + +In one of their festivals they make pilgrimages at night to the +graves of their friends, on which they place food and hang lamps. It +is said they believe their ancestors to come from heaven to them on +these occasions, and imagine that they return again in small boats, to +which they attach lanterns, and which they place on the water at +ebb-tide, on the evening of the last day of the festival, and eagerly +watch, out of sight. An old fisherman, however, who was observed +intently watching his frail bark floating out to sea, explained, on +being questioned, that he whose lamp burnt longest caught most fish; +and judging from the old man's solemn manner there was no doubt he had +perfect faith in the truth of his statement. + +However gross their superstitions may he, there is no doubt that they +affectionately revere the memory of their dead, and treat them with +quite as much respect as the most civilised nation in Christendom. + +In battle the Japanese always carry off the fallen. + +At the bombardment of the Simono-seki forts, at the entrance of the +Suwo-Nada, or 'Inland Sea,' in September 1864, Prince Choisiu's loss, +according to one of his own officers, amounted to upwards of 500 +killed and wounded; but all had been removed when the brigade of +English, French, and Dutch, under the command of Colonel Suther, C.B., +Royal Marines, took possession of the forts early next day. At the +storming of a stockade (which was pluckily defended) by two battalions +of Royal Marines and the light-armed companies of the British +squadron, the Japanese were noticed carrying away their dead and +wounded, and several were unfortunately shot while thus employed.[6] + +A few nights afterwards large fires were noticed in the interior, +which were said to be the funeral pyres of those who had fallen in the +defence of the forts and stockade. + +[Footnote 6: The whole of the operations, with the exception of the +storming of the stockade, which took place late in the day after the +French and Dutch had embarked, were under the personal superintendence +of the English and French admirals.] + +The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a custom of +Buddhist origin which is generally adopted by the Japanese. They +believe that shaving the head of the dead propitiates the deities in +their favour. It is also considered to be an emblem of sanctity, and +the bonzes, or priests, always keep their heads clean-shaved. Even +children intended for the priesthood, as well as certain religious +societies of both sexes, are similarly distinguished. Odder-looking +creatures than these bald-headed specimens of humanity can hardly be +imagined. + +[Illustration: Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. (Native drawing.)] + +The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a specimen of +the class of Japanese most prone to superstition. The lantern he +carries serves not only to light his way but to advertise his wares: +it also bears his name, no Japanese of the lower orders being allowed +to stroll about at night without a lantern so distinguished. + +[Illustration: SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES.] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES. + + +Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries connecting +it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or 'Imperial High +Road,' to which occasional reference has been made. + +Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of more than +ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care bestowed upon it +for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to keep that portion of it +which passes through his dominions in repair), become a broad and +well-graduated highway. + +It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines, cryptomerias, +and other lofty trees; and small plantations of the graceful bamboo +are generally to be seen in the neighbourhood of the roadside houses. + +The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to be +observed rising one above another, in that wild conglomeration +peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the Island of Nipon the snowy +cone of Fusiyama is almost always visible from the higher ground. + +The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields are +sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the ground permits. +The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered with rich crops of +cereals, which are watered by natural or artificial streams. + +As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional glimpses of the +sea meet the eye, often with a series of headlands jutting one beyond +another into it, and distant islands dotting the horizon. + +By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; and in +their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, hydrangeas, +violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild flowers. + +[Illustration: Carpenters at work. (Native drawing.)] + +Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and their +hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large +portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes +through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent +opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for +mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the +woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the +Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the +interior and its occupants open to the road. + +The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside +scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will +be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in +the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are +the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they +faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles. + +With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the +way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart +for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido +belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath +their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages. + +[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.] + +[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.] + +Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy +travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. It is true that +the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the +approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable +to Europeans; but the Japanese are accustomed to this, and proceed +with their journey after half-an-hour's detention without being in any +way put out by it. + +[Illustration: Tea-house Girl waiting. (Native drawing.)] + +The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido have a +great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A smiling welcome +from the pretty waitresses employed at these places may always be +anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, however slight their +requirements may be, they are certain to be promptly and courteously +attended to. + +If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to the +tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along the road, +where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a trifling cost. + +Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are much +frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on account of the +beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph opposite represents one +of these parties, some of whom appear to have been indulging too +freely in saki. The fellow dancing and waving the fan about is +apparently addressing a love-song to the lady opposite, whose husband +is evidently desirous of putting a stop to the flirtation. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE. + + +There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to English +ideas, and so materially affecting the national character, that it is +necessary to call special attention to them. + +The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one in the +country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, or spiritual +and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the people. + +All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every governor +of a town or district is associated with a vice-governor, who is an +'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is in turn spied upon by others. In +this way a constant check is kept upon the executive of the empire. + +In addition to this acknowledged system, government officials are +frequently watched by secret spies, who, for aught they know, may be +some apparently trusty friend: so that, even in the absence of their +double, they can never be certain that they are free from supervision. + +In private life families spy on each other, for which purpose they are +divided into coteries of five households, the heads of which are not +only responsible for themselves, their families and servants, but also +for the other members of the coterie; and any wrong-doing in one +household must be immediately reported to the proper authorities, to +secure the rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence. + +To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried, that a +whole district sometimes suffers for the offence of one of its +residents. In the towns where the streets are intersected with +barriers a few hundred yards apart, which are always closed at night, +the people living within these enclosures are often under the ban of +the officials for some irregularity which has occurred within the +limits. This constant espionage has, of course a very pernicious +effect upon the character of the people, as it necessarily instils +feelings of distrust and suspicion among near neighbours. Yet it is +marvellous how well their social system works, and still more +marvellous that the officials, who in public life practise every kind +of deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts deservedly +so, distinguished in private life for their truthfulness, candour, and +hospitality. + +The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner in which +the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All Japanese perform their +ablutions once or twice a-day; for which purpose the poorer classes +resort to the bath-houses, which are generally open to the road or +street. + +[Illustration: UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE.] + +Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one of these +is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, however, is more +for convenience than in compliance with the demands of modesty as is +evidenced by the fact that a male attendant is supplying water; and +that his presence is plainly a matter of perfect indifference to the +women bathing, with their children, in his immediate vicinity. + +But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary feature of +Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There men, women and +children, perform their ablutions together, with all the apparent +innocency of our first parents. The proceedings are conducted with +perfect order and good-nature. The steaming occupants make way for one +another with ball-room politeness; they laugh and chat over their +tubs, discuss the public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter +occasionally to the open door or window, to look at something which +has attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a passing +friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for itself of +their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in their conduct. + +Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the cleansing +process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial compliment, as +regular bathing-men are employed for the convenience of those who +require such attention. + +The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day and the +evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always full. + +[Illustration: Going home from the Bath-house. (Native drawing.)] + +The _modus operandi_ is very simple. The bather, after duly depositing +his straw shoes at the door and paying a few cash for admittance, at +once proceeds to disrobe himself, placing his garments in an allotted +compartment. He then secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm +water, and, squatting down before it, lathers himself with a +vegetable, soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this +stage of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with +his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until the +remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be possessor +of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions. + +It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must have immoral +effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil consequences to it. They +say that, being accustomed to it from childhood, it only enables them +to carry out those habits of cleanliness which distinguish alike their +persons and their homes. + +It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to protect +themselves from a second bath on returning from the bath-houses to +their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with the umbrella (which +bears his name and direction, by the way) is an instance of this. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LOVE OF FLOWERS. + + +One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises all +classes of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the singularly +rich and varied nature of the flora of the country, aided by the +magnificent climate, enables them to cultivate with great success. + +Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening; and, +however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted flower or +dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a flowering branch of +peach or cherry, placed in water. + +Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and grafting +trees and plants, and of laying out miniature landscapes, into which +artificial mountains and valleys are introduced, and very frequently +lakes, studded with lilliputian fern-covered islands, around which +gold and silver fish may be seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, +taking refuge under curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of +the lotus, which usually cover a portion of the surface--the only +thing out of proportion, probably, in the details of the miniature +landscape. + +The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally situated at +the sides or back; and either open upon flower-beds, grounds of the +above description, or some kind of enclosure, shaded by peach or +pear-trees, trained trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one +solitary bough twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its +unnatural contortions, the skill of the artist, the other branches +having been lopped off, or stunted, to facilitate the growth and +training of this one. + +Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also very common. +Some are perfect _bijoux_. As a rule the varied collections of +flowers, planted in coloured china pots, are arranged, with very +agreeable effect, in tiers of shelves round the sides, and on stands +about the gardens. + +Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great variety of +foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an extent is this +practised, that it is rare to find pure botanical specimens in a +Japanese garden. Plants are sometimes cultivated for their berries as +well as for their variegated foliage. One very beautiful specimen, +producing at the same time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is +believed by many to have been obtained from cuttings of an exquisite +shrub, which is said to be the principal ornament of the regions of +the 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven. + +Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at the hands of +Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are artificially variegated; +and others, on reaching maturity, have a curious crumpled appearance. +Again, the roots of certain small species are frequently twisted into +curious devices, and hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect +of these, when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young +fronds, is very pretty. + +Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and is in +great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily paid for fine +specimens. + +The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain their +livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy them not only +to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to their Lares and +Penates--patron 'Kamis;' or to decorate the tombs of departed +relatives--a religious ceremony which is strictly observed. + +Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much +frequented by the people. + +[Illustration: A FLOWER SHOW.] + +The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These flowers are +much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more attention to size and +brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The stone in the centre is +called a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in praise of flowers is inscribed. +This is a custom of very ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on +stones and rocks are to be often seen in public places. The piece of +ornamental stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp,' which is very +common in gardens, and is much prized on account of the historical +associations connected with it. + +The Japanese have many floral compliments. A very pretty one is +intimated by a present of seeds (especially if presented to a +foreigner returning to his own country), the purport being--'Plant +these seeds about your home, and, when you see them growing, think of +me.' + +[Illustration: Girl with Flowers.] + +As an instance of the influence which flowers have upon the Japanese +character, the word 'hanna,' or flower, is commonly used as a term of +endearment: it is usually applied by parents to a favourite daughter, +or by a lover to his mistress; it is also used to distinguish the +bride and the bridegroom, as 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral +love-tokens (although they only consist of a single sprig) are as much +prized among the Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, +sometimes + + "Treasured in their fading," + +as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to sentimental +reflections. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +******* This file should be named 13051-8.txt or 13051-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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M. W. Silver</title> + <style type="text/css"> + /*<![CDATA[*/ + + <!-- + body { + margin-left : 10%; + margin-right : 7%; + } + p { + text-align : justify; + } + blockquote { + text-align : justify; + } + h1 , h2 , h3 , h4 , h5 , h6 { + text-align : center; + } + h2 { + margin-top : 4em; + margin-bottom : 2em; + } + pre { + font-size : 0.7em; + } + hr { + text-align : center; + width : 50%; + } + hr.short { + text-align : center; + width : 20%; + } + hr.full { + width: 100%; + } + html>body hr { + margin-right: 25%; + margin-left: 25%; + width: 50%; + } + html>body hr.full { + margin-right: 0%; + margin-left: 0%; + width: 100%; + } + hr.short { + text-align: center; + width: 20%; + } + html>body hr.short { + margin-right: 40%; + margin-left: 40%; + width: 20%; + } + a:link { + color:blue; + text-decoration:none + } + link { + color:blue; + text-decoration:none + } + a:visited { + color:blue; + text-decoration:none + } + a:hover { + color:red + } + .author { /* text right-justified inside small margin */ + margin-right : 5%; + text-align : right; + } + .center { + text-align : center; + } + div.box { /*frames around epitaphs*/ + border : solid; + border-width : thin; + margin : 2em 20%; + padding : 1em; + } + div.box p { + text-align : center; + } + .figx {/* all fig. headings*/ + margin-top: 3em; + font-weight: bold; + } + .footnote { + font-size: 0.9em; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + } + .illustrations { + margin : 0.5em 10%; + font-size : 0.9em; + } + .index { + margin : 0 10%; + text-align : left; + font-size : 0.9em; + } + .index p { + margin : 0.5em 0; + } + .index p.i2 { /*index indented items*/ + margin-left : 2em; + } + li { /*table of contents*/ + margin-top : 0.5em; + list-style : upper-roman; + } + .note { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; + } + span.pagenum { + position : absolute; + left : 1%; + right : 85%; + font-size : 8pt; + } + .poem { + margin-left : 8%; + margin-right : 8%; + margin-bottom : 1em; + text-align : left; + } + .poem .stanza { + margin : 1em 0; + } + .poem p { + margin : 0; + padding-left : 3em; + text-indent : -3em; + } + .poem p.i2 { + margin-left : 1em; + } + .poem p.i4 { + margin-left : 2em; + } + .poem p.i6 { + margin-left : 3em; + } + .poem p.i8 { + margin-left : 4em; + } + .poem p.i10 { + margin-left : 5em; + } + .figure, .figcenter, .figright, .figleft { + padding : 1em; + margin : 0; + text-align : center; + } + .figure img, .figcenter img, .figright img, .figleft img { + border : none; + } + .figure p, .figcenter p, .figright p, .figleft p { + margin : 0; + font-size : 0.8em; + text-align : center; + } + .figcenter { + margin : auto; + } + + .figright { + float : right; + } + .figleft { + float : left; + } + --> + /*]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs, by +J. M. W. Silver</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs</p> +<p>Author: J. M. W. Silver</p> +<p>Release Date: July 29, 2004 [eBook #13051]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS***</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3>E-text prepared by Doshisha University, Michael Ciesielski, Sandra Brown,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr class="full" /> +<br /> + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image012.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i12" + id="i12"><img width="400" + src="images/image012.jpg" + alt="Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs" /></a> + </div><br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + + <h1>SKETCHES</h1> + + <h5>OF</h5> + + <h1>JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</h1> + + <h5>BY</h5> + + <h3>J.M.W. SILVER,</h3> + + <h4>LIEUTENANT ROYAL MARINES, LIGHT INFANTRY.</h4> + + <h5>(LATE OF THE ROYAL MARINE BATTALION FOR SERVICE IN + JAPAN)</h5><br /> + <br /> + + <h4>Illustrated by Native Drawings,</h4> + + <h5>REPRODUCED IN FAC-SIMILE BY MEANS OF + CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHY.</h5><br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + <h3>LONDON:</h3> + + <h4>1867</h4> + + <br /> + <hr class="short" /> + + <h4>TO</h4> + + <h3>COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX,</h3> + + <h4>BART.</h4> + <hr class="short" /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + <p>DEAR SIR EDMUND,</p> + + <p>These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs' were + collected during the years 1864-5, at which time I was attached + to the Battalion of Royal Marines for service in Japan, and it + is now very pleasing to have the privilege of dedicating them + to one who was the friend and companion-in-arms of my late + Father.</p> + + <p>In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful + acknowledgment of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this + Dedication of my humble efforts to assist in the elucidation of + the social condition of a distant and comparatively unknown + race, affords me deep gratification.</p> + + <div class="poem" + style="margin-left:40%"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p>With much respect and esteem, I am,</p> + + <p class="i6">Dear Sir Edmund,</p> + + <p class="i8">Very faithfully yours,</p> + + <p class="i10">J.M.W. SILVER.</p> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Royal Marine Barracks, Forton,<br /> + January 29th, + 1867.</i></p> + <hr /> + + <h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + + <ol> + <li><a href="#page1">FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page6">FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page10">DOMESTIC LIFE</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page14">THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND + ARISTOCRACY</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page20">THE COURT OF THE MIKADO</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page24">THE 'HARA KIRU'</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page29">NATIONAL GAMES AND + AMUSEMENTS</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page34">CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page39">SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS + OBSERVANCES</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page43">ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE + TEA-HOUSES</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page46">THE SPY SYSTEM—THE + BATH-HOUSE</a></li> + + <li><a href="#page49">LOVE OF FLOWERS</a></li> + </ol><br /> + <br /> + + + <h2>LIST OF PLATES.</h2> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i12">TITLE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i53">FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF + THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i54">MERCHANTS' GREAT + FESTIVAL.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i2">OTINTA LAMA.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i4">A FIRE-BRIGADE ON ITS + WAY TO A FIRE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i6">A JAPANESE + WEDDING.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i9">A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE + VISIT.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i13">A DAIMIO AND FAMILY + WITNESSING FIREWORKS.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i15">A MINISTER OF THE + MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i17">THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE + IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i18">LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S + COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i20">THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS + READING THE SENTENCE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i21">THE SACRIFICE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i22">A DAIMIO'S + FUNERAL.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i24">CREMATION OF THE + BODY.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i25">RELATIVES COLLECTING + ASHES.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i26">PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE + GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i28">INTERIOR OF A + THEATRE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i30">MODE OF CONDUCTING A + CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i31">LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, + ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i32">EXPOSURE FOR + INFIDELITY.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i35">SELLING INDULGENCES BY + PUBLIC AUCTION.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i36">PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF + PURGATORY.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i38">SUDANGEE, OR LAST + OFFICES.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i41">A BAKER'S SHOP.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i42">A TEA-HOUSE + MERRY-MAKING.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i44">UYA, OR + BATH-HOUSE.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i47">A FLOWER SHOW.</a></p> + + <p class="illustrations"><a href="#i1">BOOK + COVER.</a></p><br /> + <br /> + <hr /> + <br /> + <br /> + + + <div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image053.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i53" + id="i53"><img width="306" + border="none" + src="images/image053S.jpg" + alt="FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN." /> + </a> + + <p>FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN</p> + </div> + + <div class="figright"> + <a href="images/image054.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i54" + id="i54"><img width="315" + border="none" + src="images/image054S.jpg" + alt="MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL." /></a> + + <p>MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL</p> + </div><br clear="all" /> + <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page1" + id="page1"></a>[pg 1]</span> + + <h1>JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</h1> + + <h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + + <h3>FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS.</h3> + + <p>The first feature of Japanese life that prominently presents + itself to the notice of the stranger, is the number of + festivals and holidays held in honour of the various deities, + warriors, and sages, or in accordance with some ancient custom + of the county, which is as paramount an authority as the most + stringent of its laws. Of these festivals, the 'Oki-don-tako,' + or 'Great Holiday,' which takes place about Christmas, and + lasts a fortnight, is the most important. Previous to its + celebration, it is customary with the people to settle + accounts, and amicably adjust any quarrels or estrangements + that may happen to exist; and they evince the same spirit that + actuates Christian nations at this season, by a general + interchange of presents and complimentary visits with their + friends and acquaintance. So anxious are the merchants to take + this opportunity of settling with their creditors, that, when + the dealers have deficiencies to make up, articles are + frequently pressed on foreign residents at the Treaty Ports at + prices previously refused.</p> + + <p>The 'Gogata Seku,' the emblems of which form the first + subject of illustration, is also a festival of great + importance: it takes place about the middle of June, which is + the fifth month of the Japanese calendar, from which it derives + its designation, and is kept up with more than ordinary spirit + during the three days of its continuance. It is held in + commemoration <span class="pagenum"><a name="page2" + id="page2"></a>[pg 2]</span> of Gongen Sama, the great + general to whom the present dynasty owes its existence; and + the Japanese date their births from this festival, even if + born the day after its last celebration.</p> + + <p>It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge + aerial fishes, in imitation of the 'koi,' or 'carp;' large + crimson streamers, representations of Gongen Sama crushing a + demon; and the heads and tails of crayfish, with which they + decorate their dishes and the entrances of their houses. The + floating fish flag is hoisted over every house in which a boy + has been born during the preceding twelve months, and is + emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or 'carp,' + which is very plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and + rivers, surmounting all obstacles in its way, and rendering + itself by its fecundity and edible qualities useful to the + whole country, so the child is to make his way through life, + boldly fulfilling his destiny, and proving himself a useful and + beneficial member of the community. In the same way, the + scarlet streamer indicates the birth of a female child, and the + domestic nature of her duties. The crayfish are used to remind + the people of their humble origin (it being traditionary that + the empire originated from a race of poor fishermen), and the + consequent necessity of humility, temperance, and frugality, in + their different stations in life.<a id="footnotetag1" + name="footnotetag1"></a><a href="#footnote1"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + + <p>Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival: + he is considered the especial champion of women, for whose + protection he instituted several laws and regulations; among + others, making it obligatory on them to blacken their teeth on + entering into the married state. He is believed to be able to + charm away fevers, to alleviate suffering, and to prevent the + lives of his <i>protégées</i> from being + embittered by jealousy. During the celebration of this festival + the whole country presents an extraordinary appearance; aerial + fishes, streamers, and bamboo decorations, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page3" + id="page3"></a>[pg 3]</span> meet the eye in every + direction; and the people in gala costume which is always + worn on holidays, greatly enhance the brilliancy of the + scene.</p> + + <p>The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but + there is little difference in the material, the dress of every + class being regulated by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and + purples predominate in winter, the lighter and more varied + colours being generally confined to materials only adapted for + summer use. The ladies have a great partiality for crimson + crape, which is generally worn as an under-robe, and peeps + daintily out at the bottom of the dress, and at the wide open + sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with the girdle, + at the back of which it is allowed to droop in full, graceful + folds. The men do not affect such bright colours as the women + and children, although their robes are often fantastically + embroidered with various strange devices, such as shell-fish, + frogs, flowers and landscapes, some of which are beautifully + worked.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image055.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image055.jpg" + alt="Mother and Child.[From Photograph.]" /></a> + + <p>Mother and Child.[From Photograph.]</p> + </div> + + <p>The whole populace on these occasions seem determined to + enjoy themselves; the air of good-natured contentment, which + characterises them at all times, taking a more exuberant tone + as they stroll about the streets, visit in family parties, or + make excursions to the neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly + domestic in their tastes and habits, it is a pleasing sight to + watch the family groups. Here a grand-dame is carefully + assisted along by her son and daughter-in-law, preceded by + chattering grandchildren in the gayest of dresses, tugging at + extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of his house, + nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admiration + of sympathizing friends another infant—probably one of + the unconscious objects of all this rejoicing.</p> + + <p>Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on + these <span class="pagenum"><a name="page4" + id="page4"></a>[pg 4]</span> festivals and holidays, they + rarely become quarrelsome. It is, however, by no means + unusual for them to keep in a state of intoxication for + days; alleging this, with perfect <i>sang froid</i>, as an + excuse for any neglected promise or unfinished job.</p> + + <p>The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is + only celebrated in the principal towns, takes place about the + middle of July, and may be considered to be an exhibition of + the different trades, as the merchants and craftsmen of the + country show the choicest specimens of their wares and + handicraft in a kind of trades' procession. Like all the rest + of their festivals it has a religious signification, the people + believing that misfortunes in business are warded off by it. + Upwards of five hundred trade trophies figure in one of these + processions, the imposing nature of which may be imagined from + the gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses depicted in the + illustration. The car in the foreground bears the trophy of the + wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of the most lucrative in + Japan, as the Japanese not only perpetuate their celebrities by + wax-work effigies, but the majority of the people, being + professors of the Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of + the same material, called 'Kamis,' which are supposed to + intercede on their behalf with the Supreme Being. And this is + in addition to regular wax-work exhibitions, which are very + popular, and the sale of toys which are hawked about the + country by travelling dealers.</p> + + <div align="center"> + <a href="images/image002.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i2" + id="i2"><img width="318" + src="images/image002s.jpg" + alt="OTINTA LAMA" /></a> + </div> + + <p class="center">OTINTA LAMA</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image056.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image056.jpg" + alt="Travelling Merchant [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Travelling Merchant [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>The merchants have a general right of <i>entrée</i> + to all parts of the town on these occasions. In the + illustration, the procession is passing through the official + quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace forming the subject of + the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page5" + id="page5"></a>[pg 5]</span> background. They halt from time + to time in their progress, which is enlivened by songs + descriptive of their various callings, and the beating of + huge drums, and blowing of strange discordant instruments. + There is a kind of analogy between our industrial + exhibitions and these festivals; and, whatever the purpose + may be for which they were originated, it is plain that they + admirably represent the industry, wealth, and resources of + the country.</p> + + <p>'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is laughed at by + some, and believed by others to inhabit certain miniature + temples, which are crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as + that bird is supposed to be his favourite incarnation. On + holidays and festivals, his temples are frequently carried + about on the shoulders of his votaries, who are generally the + most ignorant and superstitious of the people. This is always a + subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who crowd round the + temples and oppose their progress, and indulge in witticisms at + the expense of the divinity and his bearers. This sometimes + leads to a disturbance, but only when the parties concerned + have been indulging too freely in their favourite saki.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image003.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image003.jpg" + alt="Saki-drunk. [Native drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Saki-drunk. [Native drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in + times of drought or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case + being brought out and exposed to the sun, and in the other + sprinkled with water, by way of intimating the immediate + necessity for his good + offices.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page6" + id="page6"></a>[pg 6]</span> <br clear="all" /> + + + <h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + + <h3>FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES</h3> + + <p>Fires are necessarily frequent, as the majority of the + houses are constructed of wood; and such dangerous articles as + paper-lanterns, small charcoal fire-boxes, and movable open + stoves, for household purposes, are in common use. The candles + burnt in the paper-lanterns render them extremely dangerous, as + they are fixed by a socket inside the lower end of the candle, + which fits on a peg in the lantern—generally very + loosely; and as they flare a great deal, very little wind or + motion will cause a conflagration. Fires are, mostly + attributed, however, to the 'chebache,' or small charcoal + fire-box, which is used for smoking purposes. It is placed on a + small stand in the middle of the thickly-matted rooms, the + smokers sitting round drinking saki, and occasionally filling + their small pipes. Their method of smoking, like all the rest + of their habits, is remarkably peculiar; for, after inhaling a + few whiffs, the smoker invariably knocks out the half-consumed + remnant on the 'chebache,' and, presently refilling, commences + another pipe, and so on, two or three times in succession, + rarely troubling himself about the ashes of the last, which the + slightest current of air may carry unperceived to smoulder in + the combustible flooring.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image004.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i4" + id="i4"><img width="318" + src="images/image004s.jpg" + alt="A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE" /></a> + + <p>A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE</p> + </div> + + <p>Fires occur frequently, notwithstanding the great + precautions which are taken for their prevention. Town and + country are divided into districts, for which certain of the + inhabitants are responsible. Each of these has its alarum, with + observatory and regular watchers; while every + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page7" + id="page7"></a>[pg 7]</span> guard-house is provided with a + supply of ladders, buckets, and other necessary implements. + Whenever a gale is coming on, the 'Yoshongyee and Kanabo,' + or 'watch and fire look-outs,' who on ordinary occasions + only go their rounds by night, parade the towns with rattles + and clanking iron instruments, as a warning to the people to + keep their fires low.</p> + + <p>They have numerous fire-brigades, which are well organized, + and remarkably efficient. In the illustration one of them is + seen hurrying along the street to the place of action. On the + right, a watchman is striking an alarum, and another may be + noticed, half-way up an observatory in the distance, pointing + out the direction of the fire. The white building on the other + side of the street is a fire-proof storehouse, in which the + public documents and valuables of the district are deposited + whenever a fire breaks out in it.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:30%"> + <a href="images/image005.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image005.jpg" + alt="Yoshongyee and Kanabo. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Yoshongyee and Kanabo. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>A Japanese 'Shecase,' or fire-brigade, passing silently + along the streets, lighted by its weird red-and-black + distinguishing lanterns, is a strange sight. Some of its + members wear armour, with helmets and black-lacquered iron + visors, and carry 'martoe,' or 'fire-charms,' and various + necessary implements; others are clad in head-and-shoulder + pieces and gauntlets of light chain-armour, to protect them + while pulling down and unroofing houses, which is their + especial duty. All have a regular fire costume, from the 'Oki + Yaconin,' or 'head man,' to the bare-legged coolie, who carries + the badge of the brigade in large red characters on his back. + On arriving at a fire, a <i>point de tête</i> is + selected—generally a house, on the roof of which the + fire-charms are immediately fixed, as if to forbid its further + advance. These charms (the circular white objects with black + mouldings) have, of course, as little effect on one element as + Canute's <span class="pagenum"><a name="page8" + id="page8"></a>[pg 8]</span> celebrated command had on + another; but the people put such faith in their virtue that + their presence is a powerful auxiliary in prescribing the + limits of fires, which are rarely allowed to pass the bounds + marked out by them. The firemen fight with the flames as + they close on the charms, like men determined to stand by + their colours to the last, rushing into the burning houses, + pulling them down, and drenching the blazing thatch, with + great courage and endurance. When, by thus putting their + shoulder to the wheel, the fire is fairly subdued, they turn + round and point exultingly to the martoe as the Hercules + that has procured the result. On one occasion, at a fire in + the village of Omura, adjoining Yokahama, the charms and + their supporters were actually licked by the flames from the + house opposite to that on which they were fixed, whose + thatched roof was pulled off while in a state of rampant + ignition by fire-coolies, who with bare hands, and no other + protection than their saturated clothing, fought with the + actual fire. One plucky fellow fell through the roof while + thus employed, and, as the spectators still shuddered at his + anticipated fate, rushed out apparently uninjured, and, + re-ascending, resumed his fiery task with unabated vigour. + Although the fire-charms were triumphant on this occasion, + they did not escape unscorched, and several engines had to + be kept in constant play upon them and their supporters, to + prevent the one from ignition, and the other from being + baked in their armour like crabs in their shells.</p> + + <p>The engines in present use are made of wood, and, though + simple, are efficient in damping the roofs of houses (which, + being tiled with thin squares of wood, are very inflammable), + putting out embers, and playing upon the firemen, who, as + already indicated, prefer being stewed to being roasted. The + Japanese, however, are thoroughly aware of the superiority of + our engines, which will probably soon take the place of their + own, as the people are singularly quick in availing themselves + of anything useful.</p> + + <p>The townspeople generally calculate on being burnt out once + in every seven years, and whenever this calamity falls upon + them, no time is lost in rebuilding. For instance, in December, + 1864, a fragment of blazing wood, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" + id="page9"></a>[pg 9]</span> from a fire which destroyed the + United Service Club at Yokohama, was blown across to the + village of Omura before alluded to, which was half burnt + down, greatly endangering the General Small-Pox Hospital and + the huts of the Royal Marine Battalion in its rear. But + early next morning, while the embers of the old houses were + still smoking, new ones were in course of erection, and + before night some of the industrious occupants were fairly + roofed in afresh.<a id="footnotetag2" + name="footnotetag2"></a><a href="#footnote2"><sup>2</sup></a></p><span class="pagenum"> + <a name="page10" + id="page10"></a>[pg 10]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + + <h3>DOMESTIC LIFE.</h3> + + <p>It is impossible to mark the even and peaceable tenor of + Japanese life, the politeness, industry, respect for superiors, + and general air of cheerfulness and content, that pervades all + classes, without admiration of the wise regulations which + preserve such order amongst them as a people. Quarrels and + blows are almost unknown in families; the husband is gentle, + the wife exemplary and affectionate, and the children + singularly obedient and reverent to their parents: yet 'Spare + the rod and spoil the child' is a precept totally disregarded. + The children are never beaten, nor do the parents allow + themselves to lose their tempers in rebuking them, however + great the provocation may be—one remarkable result of the + complete self-abnegation inculcated by their social system.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image006.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i6" + id="i6"><img width="315" + src="images/image006s.jpg" + alt="" /></a> + + <p>A JAPANESE WEDDING</p> + </div> + + <p>The relative position of father and son is very striking. + From an early age the latter enjoys the entire confidence of + the former, who not only treats him as a grown-up person, but + frequently refers disputed matters to his arbitration, + invariably abiding by his decision. Again, on a son's arriving + at manhood, the parents often resign their property in his + favour, relying on him, with a confidence rarely misplaced, for + maintenance during the remainder of their lives; and so sacred + is this trust considered, that in case of the son's demise it + devolves indisputably on his wife and children. So far, what + could be more promising? But, alas! like everything else, + Japanese life has a dark side, and in this case it consists of + a repulsive custom, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" + id="page11"></a>[pg 11]</span> which permits indigent + parents to sell their daughters for a term of years into a + state of bondage, for purposes of the most degrading nature. + This possibility more than counterbalances all the brighter + features of their domestic economy. Generally speaking, when + young girls find themselves a burden to their parents, they + seek employment in the tea-houses, where they are well + looked after and instructed in various accomplishments, for + which they serve a certain apprenticeship, and at its + expiration generally marry, as girls so educated are eagerly + sought after.</p> + + <p>There are two forms of marriage, either of which is legally + binding. One is a religious, and the other a civil contract, + not very dissimilar from our marriage by the registrar, saving + that the bride's parents sign for her. Whichever form is used, + the parents receive a sum of money from the bridegroom; but in + neither case is the husband supposed to see the face of his + bride until all due formalities have been performed. The + religious ceremony takes place in a temple: the pair, after + listening to a lengthy harangue from one of the attendant + priests, approach the altar, where large tapers are presented + to them; the bride, instructed by the priest, lights her taper + at the sacred censer on the altar, and the bridegroom, igniting + his from hers, allows the two flames to combine, and burn + steadily together, thus symbolizing the perfect unity of the + marriage state; and this completes the ceremonial.</p> + + <p>The illustration represents the private ratification of the + civil contract, which is a simple form, by which the parties + take upon themselves the respective duties of husband and wife. + The veiled figure in white is the 'hanna-yomie,' or 'bride,' in + the act of acknowledging the 'hanna-moko,' or 'bridegroom' (who + sits opposite to her in an official dress), by partaking of the + nuptial saki. This 'saki,' or 'wine,' is prepared by two + intimate female friends of the bride, who first pour it into + the gold and silver lacquer vessels on the stand, which + respectively represent the husband and wife, and then, taking + the vessels in hand, mix the contents in a cup, and deliver it + to the 'shewarin,' or 'master of the ceremonies,' who hands it + to the bride, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" + id="page12"></a>[pg 12]</span> then to the bridegroom, and + both partake of the contents, which act constitutes the + marriage.</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:30%"> + <a href="images/image007.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image007.jpg" + alt="A Dose of Moxa. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>A Dose of Moxa. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki + they do not attend on the bride. Such offices as are required + are performed by a married couple, the shewarin and his wife. + It is they who make the necessary arrangements, and provide the + pheasants that appear in the recess; which signify that the + hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant, will always jealously guard + his charmer, who, like the shy hen-bird, will readily respond + to the call of her mate.</p> + + <p>A more practical idea of the requirements of married life + may be deduced from the annexed woodcut, representing the + application of moxa, which is very commonly used as a remedy + for rheumatism, and to promote circulation.</p> + + <p>Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in + their houses; and when other occupations fail them, the + spinning-wheel, or loom, is brought out, and materials for + clothing their families are prepared. In the country, the women + share equally with their husbands and children in agricultural + labours; early and late whole families may be seen in the + paddy-fields transplanting rice, or superintending its + irrigation, for which the undulating nature of the country + affords great facility.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:35%"> + <a href="images/image008.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image008.jpg" + alt="Transplanting Rice. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Transplanting Rice. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they + have always a cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under + extremely irritating <span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" + id="page13"></a>[pg 13]</span> circumstances, as they are + greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in the + paddy-fields.</p> + + <p>The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation + of the soil is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with + surprise on the luxuriant crops of cereals, roots, and + vegetables; and this is solely owing to the care taken in + preparing the soil, which is not naturally productive. Weeds + are never to be met with in the fields, which, however, from + the constant manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet fresh + smell of our own.</p> + + <p>With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese + who cannot read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling + they use computing slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which + they quickly settle the amount to be paid. They do not, except + in the higher classes, receive what we understand by a general + or scientific education, the members of each trade or + profession being only instructed in what pertains to their own + affairs—a fact the inquiring stranger soon + discovers.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" + id="page14"></a>[pg 14]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + + <h3>THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY.</h3> + + <p>The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal + princes, called Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their + respective provinces, but subject to the general control of one + of their number, (selected from one of three great families), + called the 'Tycoon,' who, assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great + Council,' presides over the affairs of the state in the name of + the 'Mikado,' or 'Spiritual Emperor,' its supreme head.</p> + + <p>The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the + disturbances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance + lies in possessing the power of issuing decrees, bestowing + titles, and delegating authority to others; and princes + discontented with the Tycoon are constantly intriguing against + his legitimate influence with the Mikado. For instance: an + attempt was made in 1864 by a powerful coalition, headed by + Choisiu, prince of Nangato, to obtain possession of the + Mikado's person. This was only prevented after a severe + struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose care + the palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict + a large portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image009.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i9" + id="i9"><img width="310" + src="images/image009s.jpg" + alt="A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT" /></a> + + <p>A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT</p> + </div> + + <p>The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require + his presence elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of + the city, and is surrounded by grounds several miles in + circumference, and enclosed by a deep moat. It is there that he + receives the compulsory visits of the grandees of the empire, + one of whom, on the point of being ushered into the + audience-chamber, is <span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" + id="page15"></a>[pg 15]</span> shown opposite, in his robes + of ceremony, and attended by a sword-bearer, in token of his + high rank. The bonze, or priest, who precedes him, does not + impart any religious signification to the visit, as priests + commonly act in the double capacity of spy and master of the + ceremonies. The screen, which forms the background of the + illustration is worthy of attention, as its subject is taken + from the Japanese mythology, and represents the great + sun-god from whom Ten-zio-dai-zin, the patron goddess of the + empire, sprang.</p> + + <p>In public, these oligarchical princes are invariably + surrounded by all the pomp of feudal state, and when they + travel are escorted by large bodies of retainers. At Kanagawa, + which adjoins the settlement of Yokohama, the foreigner has + frequent opportunities of witnessing their processions as they + pass to and fro along the 'tokaido,' or 'great public road,' + when they are going on their compulsory visits to Yeddo from + their own country palaces. Nor is much danger attached to this, + as the passing of Daimios whom it would be dangerous to meet on + the tokaido, is always notified by the authorities to the + consul. On witnessing a Daimio's procession for the first time, + it is hard to realise that it is not a scene from some gorgeous + pantomime, ao brilliant and varied are the costumes of the + retainers, and so totally different is it from anything which + European eyes are accustomed to gaze upon. But should anything + excite the risible faculties of the observer, his + hallucinations are likely to be quickly scattered by the scowls + of the resolute-looking fellows passing by with 'hand on + sword,' needing but little encouragement to 'set a glory' to + it, 'by giving it the worship of revenge,' as they are + extremely jealous of the honour of their prince, and regard the + presence of foreigners on the tokaido at such times as an + insult. This circumstance is also rendered more galling by + foreigners sitting coolly on their horses by the road-side as + the great man passes, generally in a low norimon, on which they + must necessarily look down—in contradiction to Japanese + etiquette, which permits no inferior to look down upon a + superior—while the people of the country are either + abjectly kowtowing to him or patiently waiting in their closed + houses until his passing shall set them once more at + liberty.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" + id="page16"></a>[pg 16]</span> + + <p>A review given the by two ministers for foreign affairs to + Sir Rutherford Alcock, shortly before his departure, was a very + imposing spectacle. The approach of the ministers was announced + by the beating of drums (which are sometimes carried on the + shoulder and struck by the palm of the hand) and the blowing of + conch-shells, each instrument being sounded three times in + succession, at short intervals. Men in armour carrying banners, + bearing the Tycoon's crest, headed the procession. They were + followed by a large drum in a square case, carried by two men, + and the conch-blowers; then came a number of spearmen in + armour; officers on horseback immediately preceding the + ministers. On arriving at the ground they dismounted, and were + received by Sir Rutherford Alcock, the remainder of their + retinue passing on and forming in rear of the others, to the + left of the English garrison, consisting of the second + battalion of the 20th Regiment, the Royal Marine battalion, and + detachments of Royal Artillery, of the 67th Regiment, and + Beloochees, who were drawn up in brigade in honour of the + occasion. At the request of the ministers the garrison marched + past and performed a few manoeuvres, concluding with + discharging blank cartridge in squares and in skirmishing + order. The rapidity of the fire appeared to make a great + impression on them. This over, the Japanese performance + commenced; which was a representation of their ancient order of + battle, the retainers dividing and forming in lines opposite + one another, and about one hundred yards apart. The proceedings + were conducted by two marshals on foot; they began by forming + the spearmen in line, with emphatic guttural commands, stamping + of the feet, and flourishing of gilt batons, to the end of + which wisps of paper were attached. All were habited in + magnificent armour: some wore complete suits of mail; others + chain armour, lined with gorgeous silks. Broad lacquered hats + were here and there substituted for helmets; or both were + dispensed with, and the temples of the combatants bound with + linen cloth, which is their usual headdress in action. + Presently a signal was given, on which the opposing lines + commenced simultaneously to 'mark line double.' At a second + signal they faced into Indian file, and the marshals, placing + themselves at their head, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" + id="page17"></a>[pg 17]</span> led them off at a swinging + trot, the whole party flinging up their heels like boys + playing at 'follow my leader,' until startling guttural + shouts from the marshals caused the glittering lines to halt + and face each other. The horsemen, who had hitherto taken no + part in the pageant, were now stationed in rear of the + centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the + effect by their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour, + and the heraldic banners, which were attached to the back of + the cuirass and floated about two feet over their heads. As + soon as the horsemen were stationed the exciting part of the + sham-fight began, by the lines being wheeled backwards and + forwards in wings from the centre, and into zigzag + formations from central points, with a slow 'stamp-and-go' + march, the spears being flourished with each motion and + pointed high and low, and right and left, as in our bayonet + exercise. The marshals regulated the movements of their + respective lines with great accuracy, the one being retired + directly the other advanced, so that the relative distance + was never altered. After a time both parties suddenly + assumed a sitting posture and exchanged howls of defiance, + which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a simultaneous rush, + as if to engage, finished the performance from which the + representatives of barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty + cheers of the representatives of the bayonet and rifle.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:25%"> + <a href="images/image010.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image010.jpg" + alt="A Daimio Retainer. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>A Daimio Retainer. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are + surrounded by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the + country so trammels their actions with formalities and + espionage as to keep them in considerable subjection to the + Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of their houses respected, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" + id="page18"></a>[pg 18]</span> for their families are + retained in Yeddo, as hostages for their good behaviour, + while they are absent in their principalities. As an + occasional relaxation from the cares attendant on their high + position, they avail themselves of a privilege called + 'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the + pleasures and amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings + and coloured representations of scenes connected with the + higher classes which so largely engross the attention of + Japanese artists, generally depict naiboen intrigues and + adventures: these convey, however, a very exaggerated idea + of the manner in which the Daimios conduct themselves on + these occasions.</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:25%"> + <a href="images/image011.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image011.jpg" + alt="Coolies carrying Norimon. [From Native Drawing.]" /> + </a> + + <p>Coolies carrying Norimon. [From Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>The family in the house-boat witnessing a pyrotechnic + display in the bay of Yeddo, may be regarded as a faithful + representation of a Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen. The + great man in his light summer robe has apparently cast aside + the cares of office, and seems thoroughly to enjoy the cool + evening breeze and the society of his wives, only one of whom + has a legal claim to that title, by right of which she takes + precedence of the others. Of the two bonzes, or priests, in the + stem of the boat, one, probably, is a member of the family, and + the other its spy, for even naiboen excursions are not exempted + from espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this + custom that they generally regard it as a necessary check upon + themselves. Naiboen excursions to the tea-houses are very + frequent, notice being sent previously in order to insure + proper accommodation and privacy: the latter precaution being + principally taken on account of the ladies of the family, who + never go beyond the palace except in a norimon guarded by armed + retainers.</p><br clear="all" /> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image013.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i13" + id="i13"><img width="308" + src="images/image013s.jpg" + alt="A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS" /></a> + + <p>A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS</p> + </div> + + <p>In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their + habits as the rest of <span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" + id="page19"></a>[pg 19]</span> the people. They are much + given to study, the favourite subjects being + poetry,<a id="footnotetag3" + name="footnotetag3"></a><a href="#footnote3"><sup>3</sup></a> + history, astronomy, and logic. The children are usually + taught the rudiments of education by their mothers, and as + they advance in years, are either privately instructed by + masters or sent to the great schools at Miako, which are + said to be attended by upwards of four thousand + scholars.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" + id="page20"></a>[pg 20]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + + <h3>THE COURT OF THE MIKADO.</h3> + + <p>The spiritual Emperor of Japan is supposed to be a direct + descendant of the gods, and as such enjoys the adoration, as + well as the fealty of his subjects. Unfortunately, his divine + attributes deprive him of the free exercise of his human + functions, as his feet are never permitted to touch the ground + out of doors; nor is he allowed to cut his hair, beard, or + nails, or to expose himself to the rays of the sun, which, + would detract from the excellency of his person. His principal + titles are, 'Zen Zi'—'Son of Heaven;' + 'Mikado,'—'Emperor;' and 'Dairi,' or + 'Kinrai,'—'Grand Interior:' the latter denoting the + perpetual seclusion of his person. It is said that his ancestry + can be traced in an unbroken line from nearly 700 years before + the Christian era.</p> + + <p>The Mikado never goes beyond the precincts of the Imperial + residence, which occupies a large portion of the city of Miako, + comprising numerous palaces and gardens; and connected with it + are the schools alluded to in the last chapter, which are + established on the plan of a university, and are much resorted + to by the children of the nobility.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image015.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i15" + id="i15"><img width="313" + src="images/image015S.jpg" + alt=" A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION" /> + </a> + + <p>A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION</p> + </div> + + <p>Whenever this great personage wishes to take an airing, he + is carried by fourteen men in a large norimon with latticed + windows, through which he is able to see without being seen; + and even when granting an audience he is said to be concealed + from view by bamboo screen-work. His court consists of the + members of his own family and certain great officers of State + appointed <span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" + id="page21"></a>[pg 21]</span> by the Tycoon, who nominally + receive and promulgate his commands; but, in ordinary times, + he has no real power in the temporal affairs of the empire, + and only refuses to confer legality on the acts of his + lieutenant under the pressure of intrigue, or of undue + family influence.</p> + + <p>To relieve the wearisome monotony of his life, as well as to + prevent the possibility of the sacred race becoming extinct, he + is allowed twelve wives, who are chosen from the most beautiful + daughters of the chief princes of the empire. These ladies + occupy separate palaces in the immediate vicinity of his, where + they are attended by their own retainers; but only one of them + enjoys the rank of empress, although they are all treated with + the deference due to royalty. He is also said to have an + unlimited number of concubines, who reside within the bounds of + the Imperial establishment.</p> + + <p>The distinctive mark of the members of the Mikado's court + and of the ladies of his family consists of two black patches + placed on the forehead, and in the arrangement of the hair, + which is gathered up in a long cue and curved over the head by + one sex, and worn dishevelled and without any kind of ornament + by the other. Though the Mikado has little influence in the + secular affairs of state, his authority in religious questions + is supreme; but it is doubtful if he personally takes any part + in the solemnities which are constantly occurring at Miako.</p> + + <p>The subject of illustration represents one of these sacred + observances: the procession is coming from the Mikado's palace, + which, properly speaking, is a temple, being full of idols and + effigies of the 'Kamis,' or 'canonised saints.' The principal + figure is the third minister of state, and from this + circumstance the white dresses worn by the 'Kargardhee,' or + 'fire-bearers,' and the presence of some of the Imperial + children, it is probably a midnight pilgrimage to some + neighbouring shrine, in honour of the manes of a departed + member of the family.</p> + + <p>The early education of the Mikado's children is entrusted to + the ladies of the court: the sons, while still young, are sent + to different religious fraternities; and the daughters, on + attaining a suitable age, are bestowed in + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" + id="page22"></a>[pg 22]</span> marriage on the nobles of the + country, except the eldest, who is appointed chief priestess + of the temple of the Sun at Issie, which contains the shrine + of Ten-zio-dai-zin, to which all Japanese are supposed to + make a pilgrimage once in their lifetime.</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image016.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image016.jpg" + alt="A Begging Criminal. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>A Begging Criminal. (Native Drawing.)</p> + </div> + + <p>The Mikado is said to spend the greatest portion of his time + in the society of his wives, who contribute to his amusement by + singing, dancing, and theatrical entertainments. The latter + sometimes take place in the open air, as in the scene depicted + opposite; on which the 'Grand Interior' and a select party are + supposed to be looking down through the jalousies of the + palace. The vocal, instrumental, and theatrical talents of the + performers, are here called into play, the arena for the latter + being the 'Mekoshee,' or movable stage, in which a female + figure may be noticed declaiming her part. The long-handled, + fantastically-coloured umbrellas, belong to the Imperial + attendants taking part in the theatricals, whose hair, it will + be noticed, is arranged according to court etiquette.</p> + + <p>The men whose features are concealed by their broad hats are + 'Ninsokee,' or 'public singers.' Generally speaking they belong + to the aristocratic class, and are reduced to earn their + livelihood in this manner in consequence of some misdemeanour, + on account of which their property has been forfeited to the + state. Their occupation is in itself a punishment, as Japanese + gentlemen never sing, regarding that accomplishment as + derogatory to their dignity. A certain class of criminals also + wear a disguise of this nature, as shown in the woodcut.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image017.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i17" + id="i17"><img width="313" + src="images/image017s.jpg" + alt="THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE</div> " /> + </a> + + <p>THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S + PALACE</p> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image018.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i18" + id="i18"><img width="313" + src="images/image018S.jpg" + alt="LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE" /> + </a> + + <p>LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY + DANCE</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" + id="page23"></a>[pg 23]</span> + + <p>The band here represented is much stronger than those that + generally figure in Japanese orchestral and theatrical + entertainments. Music is not used, as with us, to fill the + interval between the pieces, but accompanies the performers + throughout; the louder instruments being energetically struck + as the singing becomes impassioned or the actors + declamatory.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image019.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image019.jpg" + alt="Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)" /> + </a> + + <p>Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)</p> + </div> + + <p>The butterfly dance is another specimen of the amusements + with which the ladies of the Mikado's court while away their + monotonous existence. As here shown, it is a private + performance, of which the Empress and her principal attendants + are the only spectators. The insects are personated by two of + her ladies, who mimic their motions and sing praises of the + different flowers they pretend to alight upon, to the + accompaniment of a band of fair musicians. But the most + interesting part of the affair is a spirited dialogue, in which + they cleverly criticise, under floral appellations, the + different ladies of the court, in a manner equally gratifying + and flattering to their royal mistress.</p> + + <p>The Mikado is always waited upon by the ladies of his court, + and is said never to eat twice from the same vessels, which are + broken to pieces as they are removed. An intelligent yaconin, + however, on being questioned about this point, was much amused; + and, though he professed ignorance of the subject, was + evidently very sceptical on the matter of the + dishes.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page24" + id="page24"></a>[pg 24]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + + <h3>The 'HARA KIRU.'</h3> + + <p>Although we have long been aware of the existence of this + peculiar mode of suicide, the exclusive policy of the Japanese + has placed insuperable difficulties in the way of obtaining + accurate information concerning it.</p> + + <p>A more enlightened policy is now gaining ground in the + country. The chromo-lithographs that illustrate these + 'Sketches' are fac-similes of paintings by native artists, + selected from a series lately published at Yeddo, and sold to + foreigners with the connivance, if not by permission, of the + authorities; for the spy system in Japan is so perfect, that + illicit dealings are next to impossible.</p> + + <p>As Japanese punishments entail disgrace on every member of + the culprit's family, the 'Hara Kiru,' or 'happy dispatch,' + which is the only exception, is regarded as a great privilege + by the classes entitled to avail themselves of it These consist + of the nobility, military, and official of a certain rank + holding civil appointments.</p> + + <p>It seems to be a prevalent idea that this sacrifice is + reserved for political offences; but this is not the case, as + crimes of all descriptions are condoned by it.</p> + + <p>A simple act of suicide does not constitute the 'Hara Kiru.' + To render the act legal, and to ensure the heir and family of + the person performing it against disgrace and loss of property, + an order for its performance must be issued by the Tycoon, or + by the suzerain prince of the + culprit.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page25" + id="page25"></a>[pg 25]</span> + + <p>The Japanese, being a high-spirited and patriotic people, + consider that death under any circumstances is preferable to + dishonour; and the privileged classes always carry about with + them when they travel the paraphernalia used at the performance + of the 'Hara Kiru,' in token of their readiness to prove their + patriotism, or to die rather than disgrace their family.</p> + + <p>The dress consists of a robe and 'harakama,' or 'winged + official dress,' of coarse white cloth—white being the + funeral colour of the country—which is undistinguished by + the crest or any sign of the rank of the owner. There is also + the disembowelling knife, the blade of which is about eight + inches long, and very sharp.</p> + + <p>When the sentence of the 'Hara Kiru' is awarded, or the + humble request of a defeated politician to perform it is + acceded to, a formal document is made out and duly signed by + the competent authorities. It is then delivered to two + commissioners, by whom it is conveyed to the culprit.</p> + + <p>Should the proposed victim be a Daimio of importance, and + sufficiently powerful to set the Tycoon at defiance, the + delivery of the imperial mandate is likely to be attended with + unpleasant results, as the bearers are sometimes waylaid and + murdered by retainers of the doomed prince, and have frequently + to resort to stratagem to accomplish their task. But when once + the mandate is delivered, the prince must submit, or he would + lose caste even with his own followers, so strongly are the + Japanese imbued with respect for the ancient customs of their + country.</p> + + <p>The accompanying illustrations represent the different + formalities that are observed at the performance of the 'Hara + Kiru' by a Daimio.</p> + + <p>On receiving the official intimation of his sentence, he + orders the necessary preparations to be made, and informs his + friends and relatives of it, inviting them to share in a + parting carouse with him.</p> + + <p>On the appointed day, after taking a private farewell of his + family, he receives his friends. He is habited in his white + robes, and supported by two of his relatives or ministers, + similarly attired. When the time arrives (which is previously + arranged with the commissioners) he takes leave of the guests, + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page26" + id="page26"></a>[pg 26]</span> as on any ordinary occasion, + and enters the screened enclosure, accompanied by his + supporters. It will be noticed, that the retainers guarding + the exterior and entrance are barefooted, which is a mark of + respect in honour of the rank of the culprit, and of the + solemnity of the occasion.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image020.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i20" + id="i20"><img width="302" + src="images/image020s.jpg" + alt="THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE" /> + </a> + + <p>THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE</p> + </div> + + <p>The Tycoon's messengers then read the imperial mandate, + which proclaims that, in accordance with the ancient custom of + the country, the Daimio is permitted honourably to sacrifice + himself for its benefit, and thus to expiate in his own person + the crime or offence he has committed against the welfare of + the state. In the illustration, the two officials charged with + this disagreeable office are sitting opposite the Daimio and + his friends, reading the fatal document, their suite + surrounding them in respectful attitudes.</p> + + <p>The whole party wear the official dress, which intimates at + once the respect due to the victim and the official nature of + the ceremony.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image021.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i21" + id="i21"><img width="314" + src="images/image021s.jpg" + alt="THE SACRIFICE" /></a> + + <p>THE SACRIFICE</p> + </div> + + <p>The second scene shows the Daimio on the point of performing + the sacrificial ceremony. His forelock is reversed, as a sign + of submission to his fate, and to assist the executioner, who, + as soon as his master goes through the form of disembowelling + himself with the knife on the stand, will, with one blow of his + razor-edged sword, complete the sacrifice by decapitation. Only + the two chief commissioners appointed by the Tycoon, and the + sorely-tasked supporters of the victim, remain to witness the + last act of the drama. The rest of the party await its + completion in the adjoining compartment of the enclosure, which + is expressly constructed for that purpose.</p> + + <p>The funeral procession, which is the subject of the next + scene, is accompanied by all the pomp indicative of the high + position of the deceased. The mourners wear robes of white + cloth, and all the feudal paraphernalia are draped with the + same material; which, as before mentioned, is used in Japanese + mourning. The coffin is carried near the head of the + procession; it is a square box of resinous wood, covered over + with white, and the body is placed in it in a sitting + posture.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image022.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i22" + id="i22"><img width="315" + src="images/image022s.jpg" + alt="A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL" /></a> + + <p>A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page27" + id="page27"></a>[pg 27]</span> + + <p>All the members of the family attend the funeral, either on + foot or in norimons. If the wife and the heir be absent in + Yeddo, they are represented by the nearest relations. In this + instance both are present, from which it may be inferred that + the sacrificial act has taken place in the neighbourhood of + Yeddo.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image024.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i24" + id="i24"><img width="312" + src="images/image024s.jpg" + alt="CREMATION OF THE BODY" /></a> + + <p>CREMATION OF THE BODY</p> + </div> + + <p>Although the Japanese sometimes bury their dead, they + generally practise cremation. Repulsive as this custom is to + European ideas, it must be remembered that the Japanese are not + singular in preferring it, as several of the most civilised + nations of antiquity considered it the most honourable mode of + disposing of the bodies of the dead. While the body is being + reduced to ashes the priests tell their beads and chant prayers + for the soul of the departed, as the followers of almost every + religious sect in Japan believe in a state of purgatory.</p> + + <p>The last scene shows the wife and son of the victim of the + 'Hara Kiru' collecting his ashes and depositing them in an + earthenware jar. This is afterwards sealed down and conveyed to + the cemetery, or temple, which contains the remains of his + ancestors.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image025.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i25" + id="i25"><img width="312" + src="images/image025s.jpg" + alt="RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES" /></a> + + <p>RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES</p> + </div> + + <p>Some of the Japanese cemeteries are very extensive; and they + are generally situated in secluded, picturesque spots, in the + neighbourhood of the towns and villages.</p> + + <p>The graves are small, round, cemented receptacles; just + large enough to receive the jar containing the ashes. If the + body is buried (which only happens when the deceased is + friendless, or too poor to pay the expenses of cremation), the + head is always placed pointing to the north. The tombstones are + ordinarily about three feet high; and are either square or + circular in shape, resting on square pedestals, in which small + holes are cut to contain rice and water. The supplies of these + are replenished from time to time, generally by the women of + the family, lest the spirit of the deceased should revisit its + grave and imagine itself neglected. Sometimes flowers are + placed before the graves, and flowering sprigs of peach and + plum are stuck in the ground about + them.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page28" + id="page28"></a>[pg 28]</span> + + <p>Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to + propitiate the deities in favour of their departed relatives; + and the neighbourhood of a graveyard may generally he detected + by the peculiar aromatic odour emitted during the burning of + these. For some time after a funeral the relatives daily visit + the tomb and intercede for the dead, holding their hands up in + the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the palms together as they + mutter their monotonous + orisons.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page29" + id="page29"></a>[pg 29]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + + <h3>NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.</h3> + + <p>Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they + are great lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to + sight-seeing; theatres and wax-work exhibitions are very + numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and tumblers, are regular + <i>habitués</i> of the streets.</p> + + <p>Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business, + they do not hesitate to associate it with religious + observances; and on solemn festival occasions, the vicinity of + even the most sacred temples is occupied by a variety of shows + and common stalls, for the sale of sweetmeats, toys, and + coloured pictures.</p> + + <p>Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may + he regarded as the national game of the country. It is very + generally practised, and pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be + frequently met with of an evening in the outskirts of towns and + villages, either crouched down in the preliminary attitude, + which resembles that of angry fighting-cocks, or dragging one + another to and fro like frogs struggling over a choice morsel. + The game is necessarily a dragging and pulling one, its grand + object being to force the opponent beyond a certain + boundary.</p> + + <p>So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who + travel about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios + keep private bands: each district has some especial champion; + and every Japanese a favourite '<i>smoo</i>' as they term the + wrestlers, whose exploits are canvassed with an + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page30" + id="page30"></a>[pg 30]</span> enthusiasm totally at + variance with the stolid indifference which usually + characterises the people, when any subject is broached that + does not directly concern their ordinary vocations.</p> + + <p>The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean + proportions. From constant practice they attain a muscular + development that would eclipse that of our prize-ring + champions; but their paunchy figures and sluggish movements + render any further comparison impossible, as they neither + practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and weight + are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which + their performances are confined: so, instead of walking down + superabundant flesh, they endeavour to increase it, dieting + themselves on rice and fish, which is far from productive of + any Bantingite result. The illustration of the Great Wrestling + Amphitheatre at Yeddo conveys a fair idea of the estimation in + which athletic games are held by the Japanese. The enclosure is + capable of containing several thousand spectators, and is + always filled when a match of importance takes place.</p> + + <p>In the centre is the '<i>docho</i>,' or 'boundary-ring,' + which is about eighteen feet in diameter. The game is generally + decided by one or other of the combatants being forced against + this boundary; for, although a fair throw counts, it rarely + decides the mastery, as the great weight and the crouching + position of the wrestlers necessitate dragging, pushing, and + even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp is such, that + any other results are almost impossible.</p> + + <p>The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low; + and, like everything else of a public nature, is regulated by + the government Officials are appointed to superintend the + arrangements, and to see that no accidents arise from + overcrowding. For this purpose they are provided with a box + that overlooks the whole building.</p> + + <p>The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage, + from which the commencement and duration of each match are + intimated to the audience by a certain number of strokes on the + drum that surmounts it.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image026.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i26" + id="i26"><img width="312" + src="images/image026s.jpg" + alt="PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO" /> + </a> + + <p>PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page31" + id="page31"></a>[pg 31]</span> + + <p>Before each wrestling-match commences, the 'geogee,' or + 'judge,' who superintends it, shouts out the names and exploits + of the contenders, who, after kowtowing very ceremoniously to + one another, rise to the preliminary attitude.</p> + + <p>At a signal from the judge the combatants commence. At first + they move cautiously about the centre of the ring, watching a + favourable opportunity to close, which they presently do with + deep guttural exclamations. Then great working of muscle and + tugging and straining follow, the spectators cheering on their + respective favourites, until the fall of the geogee's + fan—which is the moment depicted by the + artist—proclaims the victor.</p> + + <p>Thundering plaudits greet the hero of the occasion, who + presently strolls about among the assembled multitude, attended + by his 'coegi,' or 'servant,' who collects the offerings with + which they liberally reward his exertions. When money fails, + articles of clothing are frequently bestowed—and + sometimes too freely, as it is by no means unusual for both + sexes to half denude themselves at these exhibitions; and it is + a favourite joke with the women to send their male friends to + redeem the articles from the wrestler.</p> + + <p>Although fencing is a military exercise, it is so commonly + practised by the Japanese 'yaconinierie,' or 'soldiery,' who + comprise a large portion of the population, and is entered into + by them in so spirited a manner, that it deserves to be classed + as an amusement.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image027.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image027.jpg" + alt="Yaconins fencing." /></a> + + <p>Yaconins fencing.</p> + </div> + + <p>The woodcut is a very faithful representation of yaconins + fencing. The masks cover the whole of the head; and the arms, + breast, and hips, are protected by cuirass, petticoat, &c. + of leather ribbed with bamboo.</p> + + <p>The fencing sticks are of the same length as the + 'obi-todee-auf-catana,' <span class="pagenum"><a name="page32" + id="page32"></a>[pg 32]</span> or 'great fighting-sword.' + They are made of split canes, bound tightly together, and + are used with both hands.</p> + + <p>The Japanese fence well, and deliver their points with great + precision, especially an awkward downward thrust at the + breast.</p> + + <p>They deliver their cuts and points with fierce guttural + exclamations, which are peculiarly disagreeable to European + ears; especially when the listener is located in the vicinity + of a guard-house, whose occupants notify their employment at + daybreak with such cries as 'Hie-e! Ah-h! Atturah-h!' ('That's + at! that's into you!') and continue this information, + accompanied by the clashing of their sticks, and occasional + chuckles, until late in the afternoon.</p> + + <p>The Japanese are great frequenters of the theatres, of the + interior of one of which the illustration is a very good + representation—the exterior is generally very like that + of the temples; and in some, the ground-floor is laid out with + miniature lakes and bridges, the audience looking down on the + performance from lateral and opposite galleries.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image028.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i28" + id="i28"><img width="318" + src="images/image028s.jpg" + alt="INTERIOR OF A THEATRE" /></a> + + <p>INTERIOR OF A THEATRE</p> + </div> + + <p>The stage is a little smaller than ours, but sometimes has a + promenade through the centre of the theatre, which facilitates + by-play, to which the Japanese attach great importance. The + body of the house is divided into boxes, which are generally + taken by family parties, who bring their provisions with them + and remain all day, as the performances begin about 10 A.M. and + last until late in the evening. Their plays are very tedious, + although enlivened by a good deal of smart + <i>repartée</i> and telling jokes, but the morality even + of the most correct is very questionable. Love, of course, is + the prevailing feature; and the adventures of the principal + heroes contain enough bloodshed and murder to satisfy the most + ardent admirer of sensation dramas. In their hand-to-hand + encounters they cut and slash at one another with naked swords, + which they manage very skilfully, never permitting the blades + to come into contact. The female parts are performed by boys + and young men, who, with the assistance of paint and powder, + make admirable <span class="pagenum"><a name="page33" + id="page33"></a>[pg 33]</span> substitutes for women, though + singing and dancing-girls are frequently introduced as + divertissements.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" + style="width:40%"> + <a href="images/image029.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image029.jpg" + alt="Getting ready to go to the Theatre." /></a> + Getting ready to go to the Theatre. + </div> + + <p>Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and + childhood may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at + soaring monsters, in the construction of which great ingenuity + is displayed.</p> + + <p>The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a + quarter of the size of ours; and they are much given to + gambling, although it is strictly prohibited, and, when + detected, severely punished. But the most popular in-door game + is & sort of combination of draughts and chess, which + frequently engrosses the players for hours at a + time.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page34" + id="page34"></a>[pg 34]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + + <h3>CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS.</h3> + + <p>Crimes against property are rare in Japan, which is owing to + the high-spirited and honourable feelings that actuate all + classes of the community; but from the feudal nature of the + government, the small value attached to life, and the deadly + weapons constantly carried, by the military classes, who are + notoriously proud and revengeful, crimes against the person are + very frequent.</p> + + <p>A great check upon criminal offences is the severity of the + punishments inflicted, and the disgrace entailed upon the + culprit's family.</p> + + <p>Although the laws are extremely severe, and in their + administration there is neither jury nor counsel, justice is + delivered with great impartiality; and the judge, who is + generally the governor of the town or district in which the + offence has been committed, is entrusted with considerable + discretionary power.</p> + + <p>When a prisoner is being examined his arms are bound to his + sides by a rope, which also passes round his neck, the end of + which is held by an official, who, if his charge prove unruly, + manages him by pulls and jerks.</p> + + <p>'Thrashemono,' or 'public exposure,' is associated with all + Japanese punishments, and is said to be in itself a great + preventive of crime, as the spirited Japanese dread being held + up to the reprobation of their acquaintance more than they fear + the extreme penalty of the law.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image030.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i30" + id="i30"><img width="310" + src="images/image030s.jpg" + alt="MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION" /> + </a> + + <p>MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION</p> + </div> + + <p>The illustration, showing the mode of conducting a criminal + to execution, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page35" + id="page35"></a>[pg 35]</span> is an instance of + 'thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a horse, and is + preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or neighbours, + and indicating his crime. In this manner he is conducted + through the town to the place of execution, where his + sentence is read to him. He is then placed (with his limbs + still bound) over a freshly-dug hole, where he is supported + by his relatives till the executioner's sword performs its + task.</p> + + <p>After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally + exposed: that of Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in + the presence of the British garrison of Yokohama, for being the + organizer of the assassination of Major Baldwin and Lieutenant + Bird of Her Majesty's 20th Regiment) was exhibited on the + public stand at the guard-house at the entrance of the + town.</p> + + <p>This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a + most determined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of + crime.</p> + + <p>When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding + his execution, he conducted himself with great bravado, + remarking on the improvements in the town since he last visited + it, and expressing his regret that he had not killed a + consul.</p> + + <p>At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in + which he declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had + studied the arts and sciences, and never believed the + government would sacrifice a Japanese for the death of a + foreigner. He said that the days would come when they would + repent the encouragement they were now giving to strangers; and + ended by complimenting the executioner on his well-known + skill.</p> + + <p>The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus + ably described by the highest authority on Japanese + matters:<a id="footnotetag4" + name="footnotetag4"></a><a href="#footnote4"><sup>4</sup></a>—</p> + + <p>'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who + are of his family, or claim his protection, when any of his + people are resolved upon a desperate enterprise they formally + renounce the protection and declare themselves + "lonins;"—in other words, outlaws, or friendless men: + after <span class="pagenum"><a name="page36" + id="page36"></a>[pg 36]</span> which no one is responsible + for their acts, and this is considered a highly honourable + and proper thing to do.</p> + + <p>The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or + assisting a lonin endangers his head; and such men are, + therefore, compelled to resort to robbery and extortion as + means of supporting themselves. It generally happens that this + legalised method of taking the law into their own hands drives + those who avail themselves of it into a series of crimes, and + frequently they become the associates of common thieves.</p> + + <p>Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a + rich merchant's house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest + being thieves in disguise.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image031.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i31" + id="i31"><img width="325" + src="images/image031s.jpg" + alt="LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE" /> + </a> + + <p>LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE</p> + </div> + + <p>The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords + plainly intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm, + or to offer resistance to their demands, have apparently been + collecting all the money in the house and are laying it before + the thieves. The oblong boxes are iron safes, in which the + Japanese keep their money.</p> + + <p>From the position of the other members of the gang, it is + evident that they have not got all they require, and are + watching something going on in the interior of the house. They + have probably learnt that the merchant has to forward some + money for the purchase of goods by a certain date, and know + exactly how much to expect.</p> + + <p>In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the + Yeddo merchants, congratulated them on the fact that the + portion of the country under his immediate control was exempt + from the depredations of lonins; but notwithstanding this + statement, a robbery of the nature described took place in the + capital immediately after the issue of the Tycoon's manifesto, + and a lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for his conduct, + that he had learnt that the money was intended for foreigners, + who were settled in the country in opposition to the laws of + Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked.</p> + + <p>With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant + classes, that it frequently happens that one or two will go + into a village and extort what they require without the + slightest resistance being + offered.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page37" + id="page37"></a>[pg 37]</span> + + <p>As a rule, Japanese punishments resemble those inflicted by + the Chinese, and seem to be based on the Mosaic principle of + 'an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth.' Arson, for + instance, is punished at the stake; and a thief who endeavours + to conceal the results of his robberies by burying them, has + the disadvantages of that mode of concealment impressed upon + him, by being himself embedded for a day or two in the ground, + with only his head out—a mode of instruction that rarely + requires a repetition of the lesson.</p> + + <p><i>Apropos</i> of this punishment is the testimony of an + eye-witness, who, in passing the public execution place at + Yeddo, noticed a head on the ground, which he supposed to have + been recently struck off. He had turned away with a shudder, + when a laugh from the bystanders caused him to look again, + when, to his great astonishment, the head was vigorously + puffing at a pipe which the facetious executioner had a few + moments before been smoking himself.</p> + + <p>The last illustration shows a man and woman undergoing + public exposure for adultery—a crime which is rare in + Japan and which is punished with great severity.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image032.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i32" + id="i32"><img width="318" + src="images/image032s.jpg" + alt="EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY" /></a> + + <p>EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY</p> + </div> + + <p>With such detestation is it regarded, that, in addition to + all legal cognizance, the husband is permitted, in certain + instances, to avenge himself by taking the lives of the + offenders upon the spot.</p> + + <p>The board on the right contains the official intimation of + the crime.</p> + + <p>The curious instruments depicted in the woodcut are Japanese + emblems of justice and are to be seen at all the guard-houses; + they are used to catch runaway offenders or to pin a drunken + yaconin against a wall or house, and so facilitate the task of + disarming him without danger to the captors.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:30%"> + <a href="images/image033.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image033.jpg" + alt="Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo." /></a> + + <p>Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo.</p> + </div> + + <p>Although the Japanese use torture to extract information + from obstinate criminals, they employ all necessary caution to + preserve life; and a doctor and responsible officer are always + present when it is employed, as representatives + <span class="pagenum"><a name="page38" + id="page38"></a>[pg 38]</span> of the respective claims of + humanity and justice. A singular punishment, to which only + the nobles of the country are liable, is secret banishment + to the island of *Fatzisiu, which is situated on the + northern coast of the empire. It is small and barren, rising + perpendicularly from the sea. The only communication with it + is by means of a basket, which is lowered from an + overhanging tree to the water, a distance of about fifty + feet.<a id="footnotetag5" + name="footnotetag5"></a><a href="#footnote5"><sup>5</sup></a> + From this island there is no return, and the unhappy, + incarcerated nobles, are compelled to support themselves by + weaving silks, which are the most beautiful the country + produces. A junk visits the island once a-year, when the + silks are exchanged for + provisions.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page39" + id="page39"></a>[pg 39]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + + <h3>SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES.</h3> + + <p>The Sintoo faith and Buddhism are the prevalent religions of + the Japanese. The teaching of the other sects is modelled more + or less on the tenets inculcated by these two. Some, however, + hold a philosophic doctrine, which recognises a Supreme Being + but denies a future state, holding that happiness is only to be + insured by a virtuous life.</p> + + <p>Sintooism may be regarded as the national religion of the + country. It inculcates a high moral standard; and its chief + personage is the Mikado, or spiritual emperor, who is + considered to be a mediator between his subjects and the + inhabitants of the other world.</p> + + <p>Every Sintoo has the image of a patron 'kami,' or 'saint,' + enshrined in his house, to which he lays open his necessities + and confesses his shortcomings, and by whose intercession with + the Supreme Being he trusts at his death to be translated to + the regions of the 'kamis,' as they designate their heaven.</p> + + <p>The wicked are supposed to be consigned to the abodes of the + disembodied spirits, who are punished according to the nature + of their crimes. For instance, saki merchants who have sold bad + spirit are believed to be confined in stagnant pools; and + murderers are supposed to haunt the graves of their victims, + until the prayers of their relatives release them. Purity of + life and body is the leading feature of the Sintoo faith. As an + emblem of the natural purity of the soul, mirrors are hung up + in the temples; and <span class="pagenum"><a name="page40" + id="page40"></a>[pg 40]</span> the more ignorant people (who + in Japan, like every other country, are most influenced by + superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror, that + the Supreme Being sees their past lives as easily as they do + their own faces. The value attached to indulgences and + charms is very great, and the sale of them contributes + largely to the revenues of the Mikado. Charms are eagerly + purchased by the lower orders, who carry them about their + persons, and never let anybody touch them except + themselves.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image035.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i35" + id="i35"><img width="318" + src="images/image035s.jpg" + alt="SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION" /></a> + + <p>SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION</p> + </div> + + <p>At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was + accidentally dropped by a lively little 'moosmie,' or 'girl,' + who was waiting on a party of foreigners. One of them picked it + up, and was on the point of opening the small box in which it + is placed for safety when she discovered the loss, and made a + desperate rush for its recovery. On finding the importance + attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, was handed + round the group as she eagerly darted after it; and on one of + the party pretending to light a cigar with it she burst into + tears, and was not to be pacified until it was restored.</p> + + <p>A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese + is 'Osurasma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they + wisely consider that even the most holy must have some small + peccadilloes to answer for.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image036.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i36" + id="i36"><img width="312" + src="images/image036s.jpg" + alt="PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY" /></a> + + <p>PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY</p> + </div> + + <p>This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death: + a white lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of + the mourners' houses, while they offer oblations and burn + joss-sticks. Food is also prepared and laid out, in case the + spirit of the departed, finding the journey to the regions of + the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should need + refreshment.</p> + + <p>No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the + white lamp is hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy + of a family engaged in these solemn duties, as the spirits of + the departed are firmly believed to revisit their former + dwellings at such times, if they have not already entered into + a state of bliss.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page41" + id="page41"></a>[pg 41]</span> + + <p>In one of their festivals they make pilgrimages at night to + the graves of their friends, on which they place food and hang + lamps. It is said they believe their ancestors to come from + heaven to them on these occasions, and imagine that they return + again in small boats, to which they attach lanterns, and which + they place on the water at ebb-tide, on the evening of the last + day of the festival, and eagerly watch, out of sight. An old + fisherman, however, who was observed intently watching his + frail bark floating out to sea, explained, on being questioned, + that he whose lamp burnt longest caught most fish; and judging + from the old man's solemn manner there was no doubt he had + perfect faith in the truth of his statement.</p> + + <p>However gross their superstitions may he, there is no doubt + that they affectionately revere the memory of their dead, and + treat them with quite as much respect as the most civilised + nation in Christendom.</p> + + <p>In battle the Japanese always carry off the fallen.</p> + + <p>At the bombardment of the Simono-seki forts, at the entrance + of the Suwo-Nada, or 'Inland Sea,' in September 1864, Prince + Choisiu's loss, according to one of his own officers, amounted + to upwards of 500 killed and wounded; but all had been removed + when the brigade of English, French, and Dutch, under the + command of Colonel Suther, C.B., Royal Marines, took possession + of the forts early next day. At the storming of a stockade + (which was pluckily defended) by two battalions of Royal + Marines and the light-armed companies of the British squadron, + the Japanese were noticed carrying away their dead and wounded, + and several were unfortunately shot while thus + employed.<a id="footnotetag6" + name="footnotetag6"></a><a href="#footnote6"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + + <p>A few nights afterwards large fires were noticed in the + interior, which were said to be the funeral pyres of those who + had fallen in the defence of the forts and + stockade.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page42" + id="page42"></a>[pg 42]</span> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image038.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i38" + id="i38"><img width="321" + src="images/image038s.jpg" + alt="SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES" /></a> + + <p>SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES</p> + </div> + + <p>The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a + custom of Buddhist origin which is generally adopted by the + Japanese. They believe that shaving the head of the dead + propitiates the deities in their favour. It is also considered + to be an emblem of sanctity, and the bonzes, or priests, always + keep their heads clean-shaved. Even children intended for the + priesthood, as well as certain religious societies of both + sexes, are similarly distinguished. Odder-looking creatures + than these bald-headed specimens of humanity can hardly be + imagined.</p> + + <p>The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a + specimen of the class of Japanese most prone to superstition. + The lantern he carries serves not only to light his way but to + advertise his wares: it also bears his name, no Japanese of the + lower orders being allowed to stroll about at night without a + lantern so distinguished.</p> + + <div class="figcenter" + style="width:35%"> + <a href="images/image037.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image037.jpg" + alt="Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. [Native Drawing.]" /> + </a> + + <p>Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page43" + id="page43"></a>[pg 43]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> + + <h3>ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES.</h3> + + <p>Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries + connecting it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or + 'Imperial High Road,' to which occasional reference has been + made.</p> + + <p>Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of + more than ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care + bestowed upon it for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to + keep that portion of it which passes through his dominions in + repair), become a broad and well-graduated highway.</p> + + <p>It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines, + cryptomerias, and other lofty trees; and small plantations of + the graceful bamboo are generally to be seen in the + neighbourhood of the roadside houses.</p> + + <p>The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to + be observed rising one above another, in that wild + conglomeration peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the + Island of Nipon the snowy cone of Fusiyama is almost always + visible from the higher ground.</p> + + <p>The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields + are sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the + ground permits. The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered + with rich crops of cereals, which are watered by natural or + artificial streams.</p> + + <p>As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional + glimpses of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page44" + id="page44"></a>[pg 44]</span> sea meet the eye, often with + a series of headlands jutting one beyond another into it, + and distant islands dotting the horizon.</p> + + <p>By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; + and in their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, + hydrangeas, violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild + flowers.</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:35%"> + <a href="images/image040.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image040.jpg" + alt="Carpenters at work. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Carpenters at work. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and + their hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, + and a large portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the + Tokaido passes through most of the principal towns, the + traveller has frequent opportunities of observing the various + avocations of the people; for mechanics commonly work in front + of their doors, as shown in the woodcut; and in fine weather, + the sliding windows through which the Japanese enter their + houses are always drawn back, leaving the interior and its + occupants open to the road.</p><br clear="all" /> + + <p>The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the + wayside scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese + house. It will be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, + as well as the cat in the girl's arms, are very differently + delineated; but such animals are the especial stumbling-blocks + of the native artists, although they faithfully represent + birds, fishes, and reptiles.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image041.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i41" + id="i41"><img width="315" + src="images/image041s.jpg" + alt="" /></a> + + <p>A BAKER'S SHOP</p> + </div> + + <p>With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys + (who, by the way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses + officially set apart for their use), for the mass of the people + to be seen on the Tokaido belong to the lower classes—the + aristocracy considering it beneath their dignity to travel for + pleasure, or to make + pilgrimages.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page45" + id="page45"></a>[pg 45]</span> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:30%"> + <a href="images/image043.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image043.jpg" + alt="Tea-house Girl waiting. [Native Drawing.]" /></a> + + <p>Tea-house Girl waiting. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly + to enjoy travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. + It is true that the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down + upon your knees,' at the approach of one of their oligarchical + rulers, would be objectionable to Europeans; but the Japanese + are accustomed to this, and proceed with their journey after + half-an-hour's detention without being in any way put out by + it.</p> + + <p>The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido + have a great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A + smiling welcome from the pretty waitresses employed at these + places may always be anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, + however slight their requirements may be, they are certain to + be promptly and courteously attended to.</p> + + <p>If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to + the tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along + the road, where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a + trifling cost.</p> + + <p>Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are + much frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on + account of the beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph + opposite represents one of these parties, some of whom appear + to have been indulging too freely in saki. The fellow dancing + and waving the fan about is apparently addressing a love-song + to the lady opposite, whose husband is evidently desirous of + putting a stop to the flirtation.</p><br clear="all" /> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image042.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i42" + id="i42"><img width="314" + src="images/image042s.jpg" + alt="A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING" /></a> + + <p>A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page46" + id="page46"></a>[pg 46]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + + <h3>THE SPY SYSTEM—THE BATH-HOUSE.</h3> + + <p>There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to + English ideas, and so materially affecting the national + character, that it is necessary to call special attention to + them.</p> + + <p>The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one + in the country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, + or spiritual and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the + people.</p> + + <p>All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every + governor of a town or district is associated with a + vice-governor, who is an 'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is + in turn spied upon by others. In this way a constant check is + kept upon the executive of the empire.</p> + + <p>In addition to this acknowledged system, government + officials are frequently watched by secret spies, who, for + aught they know, may be some apparently trusty friend: so that, + even in the absence of their double, they can never be certain + that they are free from supervision.</p> + + <p>In private life families spy on each other, for which + purpose they are divided into coteries of five households, the + heads of which are not only responsible for themselves, their + families and servants, but also for the other members of the + coterie; and any wrong-doing in one household must be + immediately reported to the proper authorities, to secure the + rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence.</p> + + <p>To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried, + that a whole <span class="pagenum"><a name="page47" + id="page47"></a>[pg 47]</span> district sometimes suffers + for the offence of one of its residents. In the towns where + the streets are intersected with barriers a few hundred + yards apart, which are always closed at night, the people + living within these enclosures are often under the ban of + the officials for some irregularity which has occurred + within the limits. This constant espionage has, of course a + very pernicious effect upon the character of the people, as + it necessarily instils feelings of distrust and suspicion + among near neighbours. Yet it is marvellous how well their + social system works, and still more marvellous that the + officials, who in public life practise every kind of + deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts + deservedly so, distinguished in private life for their + truthfulness, candour, and hospitality.</p> + + <p>The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner + in which the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All + Japanese perform their ablutions once or twice a-day; for which + purpose the poorer classes resort to the bath-houses, which are + generally open to the road or street.</p> + + <p>Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one + of these is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, + however, is more for convenience than in compliance with the + demands of modesty as is evidenced by the fact that a male + attendant is supplying water; and that his presence is plainly + a matter of perfect indifference to the women bathing, with + their children, in his immediate vicinity.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image044.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i44" + id="i44"><img width="321" + src="images/image044s.jpg" + alt="UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE" /></a> + + <p>UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE</p> + </div> + + <p>But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary + feature of Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There + men, women and children, perform their ablutions together, with + all the apparent innocency of our first parents. The + proceedings are conducted with perfect order and good-nature. + The steaming occupants make way for one another with ball-room + politeness; they laugh and chat over their tubs, discuss the + public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter occasionally to + the open door or window, to look at something which has + attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a + passing friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for + itself of their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in + their conduct.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page48" + id="page48"></a>[pg 48]</span> + + <p>Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the + cleansing process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial + compliment, as regular bathing-men are employed for the + convenience of those who require such attention.</p> + + <p>The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day + and the evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always + full.</p> + + <div class="figleft" + style="width:30%"> + <a href="images/image046.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image046.jpg" + alt="Going home from the Bath-house. [Native Drawing.]" /> + </a> + + <p>Going home from the Bath-house. [Native Drawing.]</p> + </div> + + <p>The <i>modus operandi</i> is very simple. The bather, after + duly depositing his straw shoes at the door and paying a few + cash for admittance, at once proceeds to disrobe himself, + placing his garments in an allotted compartment. He then + secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm water, and, + squatting down before it, lathers himself with a vegetable, + soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this stage + of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with + his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until + the remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be + possessor of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions.</p> + + <p>It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must + have immoral effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil + consequences to it. They say that, being accustomed to it from + childhood, it only enables them to carry out those habits of + cleanliness which distinguish alike their persons and their + homes.</p> + + <p>It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to + protect themselves from a second bath on returning from the + bath-houses to their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with + the umbrella (which bears his name and direction, by the way) + is an instance of + this.</p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page49" + id="page49"></a>[pg 49]</span> + + <h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + + <h3>LOVE OF FLOWERS.</h3> + + <p>One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises + all classes of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the + singularly rich and varied nature of the flora of the country, + aided by the magnificent climate, enables them to cultivate + with great success.</p> + + <p>Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening; + and, however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted + flower or dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a + flowering branch of peach or cherry, placed in water.</p> + + <p>Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and + grafting trees and plants, and of laying out miniature + landscapes, into which artificial mountains and valleys are + introduced, and very frequently lakes, studded with lilliputian + fern-covered islands, around which gold and silver fish may be + seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, taking refuge under + curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of the lotus, + which usually cover a portion of the surface—the only + thing out of proportion, probably, in the details of the + miniature landscape.</p> + + <p>The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally + situated at the sides or back; and either open upon + flower-beds, grounds of the above description, or some kind of + enclosure, shaded by peach or pear-trees, trained + trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one solitary bough + twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its + unnatural contortions, <span class="pagenum"><a name="page50" + id="page50"></a>[pg 50]</span> the skill of the artist, the + other branches having been lopped off, or stunted, to + facilitate the growth and training of this one.</p> + + <p>Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also + very common. Some are perfect <i>bijoux</i>. As a rule the + varied collections of flowers, planted in coloured china pots, + are arranged, with very agreeable effect, in tiers of shelves + round the sides, and on stands about the gardens.</p> + + <p>Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great + variety of foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an + extent is this practised, that it is rare to find pure + botanical specimens in a Japanese garden. Plants are sometimes + cultivated for their berries as well as for their variegated + foliage. One very beautiful specimen, producing at the same + time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is believed by many to + have been obtained from cuttings of an exquisite shrub, which + is said to be the principal ornament of the regions of the + 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven.</p> + + <p>Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at + the hands of Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are + artificially variegated; and others, on reaching maturity, have + a curious crumpled appearance. Again, the roots of certain + small species are frequently twisted into curious devices, and + hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect of these, + when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young fronds, + is very pretty.</p> + + <p>Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and + is in great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily + paid for fine specimens.</p> + + <p>The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain + their livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy + them not only to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to + their Lares and Penates—patron 'Kamis;' or to decorate + the tombs of departed relatives—a religious ceremony + which is strictly observed.</p> + + <p>Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much + frequented by the people.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image047.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i47" + id="i47"><img width="321" + src="images/image047s.jpg" + alt="A FLOWER SHOW" /></a> + + <p>A FLOWER SHOW</p> + </div><span class="pagenum"><a name="page51" + id="page51"></a>[pg 51]</span> + + <p>The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These + flowers are much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more + attention to size and brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The + stone in the centre is called a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in + praise of flowers is inscribed. This is a custom of very + ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on stones and rocks + are to be often seen in public places. The piece of ornamental + stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp,' which is very + common in gardens, and is much prized on account of the + historical associations connected with it.</p> + + <div class="figright" + style="width:20%"> + <a href="images/image048.jpg" + target="blank"><img width="100%" + src="images/image048.jpg" + alt="Girl with Flowers." /></a> + + <p>Girl with Flowers.</p> + </div> + + <p>The Japanese have many floral compliments. A very pretty one + is intimated by a present of seeds (especially if presented to + a foreigner returning to his own country), the purport + being—'Plant these seeds about your home, and, when you + see them growing, think of me.'</p> + + <p>As an instance of the influence which flowers have upon the + Japanese character, the word 'hanna,' or flower, is commonly + used as a term of endearment: it is usually applied by parents + to a favourite daughter, or by a lover to his mistress; it is + also used to distinguish the bride and the bridegroom, as + 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral love-tokens (although they + only consist of a single sprig) are as much prized among the + Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, sometimes</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p class="i10">"Treasured in their fading,"</p> + </div> + </div> + + <p>as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to + sentimental reflections.</p><br clear="all" /> + <hr class="full" /> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote1" + name="footnote1"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag1">(return)</a> + + <p>The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese + letters is an exhortation to the same effect.</p> + </blockquote> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote2" + name="footnote2"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag2">(return)</a> + + <p>As an illustration of the spirit which characterises + British merchants in their intercourse with the Japanese, + it may be mentioned that a liberal subscription was + promptly got up for the re-establishment of these burnt-out + villagers; but, although the Japanese Government seemed + thoroughly to appreciate the kindly spirit in which it was + offered, national pride came in the way of its acceptance, + and the people were only induced to waive their objection + on its being urgently pressed upon them that the fire which + destroyed the Foreigners' Club was the cause of the + calamity.</p> + </blockquote> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote3" + name="footnote3"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag3">(return)</a> + + <p>A very interesting volume of translations of Japanese + Lyrical Odes has lately been published by F.V. Dickins, + Esq. M.B.: Smith, Elder, & Co.</p> + </blockquote> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote4" + name="footnote4"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag4">(return)</a> + + <p>Sir Rutherford Alcock. See 'Capital of the Tycoon.'</p> + </blockquote> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote5" + name="footnote5"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag5">(return)</a> + + <p>In 1853 an English man-of-war visited this island, and + two of the officers were hoisted up in the basket for the + purpose of taking sights. One of them, who was my + informant, describes it as a walled-in barren island, with + no other mode of ingress or egress than that described.</p> + </blockquote> + + <blockquote class="footnote"> + <a id="footnote6" + name="footnote6"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b> + <a href="#footnotetag6">(return)</a> + + <p>The whole of the operations, with the exception of the + storming of the stockade, which took place late in the day + after the French and Dutch had embarked, were under the + personal superintendence of the English and French + admirals.</p> + </blockquote> + <hr class="full" /> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a href="images/image001.jpg" + target="blank" + name="i1" + id="i1"><img width="300" + src="images/image001.jpg" + alt="Book Cover." /></a> + </div> +<br /> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 13051-h.txt or 13051-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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M. W. Silver + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs + +Author: J. M. W. Silver + +Release Date: July 29, 2004 [eBook #13051] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +E-text prepared by Doshisha University, Michael Ciesielski, Sandra Brown, +and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original lovely illustrations. + See 13051-h.htm or 13051-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h/13051-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051/13051-h.zip) + + + + + +SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + +by + +J. M. W. SILVER +Lieutenant Royal Marines, Light Infantry +(Late of the Royal Marine Battalion for Service in Japan) + +Illustrated by Native Drawings, +Reproduced in Fac-Simile by Means of Chromo-Lithography. + +LONDON + +1867 + + + + + + +[Illustration: Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs] + + + + +TO + +COLONEL SIR EDMUND SAUNDERSON PRIDEAUX, BART. + +DEAR SIR EDMUND, + +These few 'Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs' were collected +during the years 1864-5, at which time I was attached to the Battalion +of Royal Marines for service in Japan, and it is now very pleasing to +have the privilege of dedicating them to one who was the friend and +companion-in-arms of my late Father. + +In memory of this bond of friendship, and in grateful acknowledgment +of the many kindnesses you have shown me, this Dedication of my humble +efforts to assist in the elucidation of the social condition of a +distant and comparatively unknown race, affords me deep gratification. + + With much respect and esteem, I am, + Dear Sir Edmund, + Very faithfully yours, + J. M. W. SILVER. + + +Royal Marine Barracks, Forton, +January 29th, 1867. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + I. FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS + + II. FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + III. DOMESTIC LIFE + + IV. THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY + + V. THE COURT OF THE MIKADO + + VI. THE 'HARA KIRU' + + VII. NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS + +VIII. CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS + + IX. SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES + + X. ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES + + XI. THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE + + XII. LOVE OF FLOWERS + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +TITLE. + +FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN. + +MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL. + +OTINTA LAMA. + +A FIRE-BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE. + +A JAPANESE WEDDING. + +A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT. + +A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS. + +A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION. + +THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE. + +LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY DANCE. + +THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE. + +THE SACRIFICE. + +A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL. + +CREMATION OF THE BODY. + +RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES. + +PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO. + +INTERIOR OF A THEATRE. + +MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION. + +LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE. + +EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY. + +SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION. + +PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY. + +SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES. + +A BAKER'S SHOP. + +A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING. + +UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE. + +A FLOWER SHOW. + + + + +[Illustration: FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF THE BIRTH OF CHILDREN.] + +[Illustration: MERCHANTS' GREAT FESTIVAL.] + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS. + + +The first feature of Japanese life that prominently presents itself to +the notice of the stranger, is the number of festivals and holidays +held in honour of the various deities, warriors, and sages, or in +accordance with some ancient custom of the county, which is as +paramount an authority as the most stringent of its laws. Of these +festivals, the 'Oki-don-tako,' or 'Great Holiday,' which takes place +about Christmas, and lasts a fortnight, is the most important. +Previous to its celebration, it is customary with the people to settle +accounts, and amicably adjust any quarrels or estrangements that may +happen to exist; and they evince the same spirit that actuates +Christian nations at this season, by a general interchange of presents +and complimentary visits with their friends and acquaintance. So +anxious are the merchants to take this opportunity of settling with +their creditors, that, when the dealers have deficiencies to make up, +articles are frequently pressed on foreign residents at the Treaty +Ports at prices previously refused. + +The 'Gogata Seku,' the emblems of which form the first subject of +illustration, is also a festival of great importance: it takes place +about the middle of June, which is the fifth month of the Japanese +calendar, from which it derives its designation, and is kept up with +more than ordinary spirit during the three days of its continuance. It +is held in commemoration of Gongen Sama, the great general to whom +the present dynasty owes its existence; and the Japanese date their +births from this festival, even if born the day after its last +celebration. + +It has several curious symbols, the most striking being huge aerial +fishes, in imitation of the 'koi,' or 'carp;' large crimson streamers, +representations of Gongen Sama crushing a demon; and the heads and +tails of crayfish, with which they decorate their dishes and the +entrances of their houses. The floating fish flag is hoisted over +every house in which a boy has been born during the preceding twelve +months, and is emblematical of his future career. As the 'koi,' or +'carp,' which is very plentiful in Japan, finds its way up streams and +rivers, surmounting all obstacles in its way, and rendering itself by +its fecundity and edible qualities useful to the whole country, so the +child is to make his way through life, boldly fulfilling his destiny, +and proving himself a useful and beneficial member of the community. +In the same way, the scarlet streamer indicates the birth of a female +child, and the domestic nature of her duties. The crayfish are used to +remind the people of their humble origin (it being traditionary that +the empire originated from a race of poor fishermen), and the +consequent necessity of humility, temperance, and frugality, in their +different stations in life.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The slice of salt-fish which accompanies Japanese letters +is an exhortation to the same effect.] + +Various qualities are ascribed to the hero of this festival: he is +considered the especial champion of women, for whose protection he +instituted several laws and regulations; among others, making it +obligatory on them to blacken their teeth on entering into the married +state. He is believed to be able to charm away fevers, to alleviate +suffering, and to prevent the lives of his _protegees_ from being +embittered by jealousy. During the celebration of this festival the +whole country presents an extraordinary appearance; aerial fishes, +streamers, and bamboo decorations, meet the eye in every direction; +and the people in gala costume which is always worn on holidays, +greatly enhance the brilliancy of the scene. + +The gala dress is much gayer than that ordinarily worn, but there is +little difference in the material, the dress of every class being +regulated by stringent sumptuary laws. Blues and purples predominate +in winter, the lighter and more varied colours being generally +confined to materials only adapted for summer use. The ladies have a +great partiality for crimson crape, which is generally worn as an +under-robe, and peeps daintily out at the bottom of the dress, and at +the wide open sleeves; it is also entwined in the hair, and with the +girdle, at the back of which it is allowed to droop in full, graceful +folds. The men do not affect such bright colours as the women and +children, although their robes are often fantastically embroidered +with various strange devices, such as shell-fish, frogs, flowers and +landscapes, some of which are beautifully worked. + +[Illustration: Mother and Child.(From Photograph.)] + +The whole populace on these occasions seem determined to enjoy +themselves; the air of good-natured contentment, which characterises +them at all times, taking a more exuberant tone as they stroll about +the streets, visit in family parties, or make excursions to the +neighbouring tea-houses. Thoroughly domestic in their tastes and +habits, it is a pleasing sight to watch the family groups. Here a +grand-dame is carefully assisted along by her son and daughter-in-law, +preceded by chattering grandchildren in the gayest of dresses, tugging +at extraordinary kites; or a father, in the doorway of his house, +nurses one child, while the mother exhibits for the admiration of +sympathizing friends another infant--probably one of the unconscious +objects of all this rejoicing. + +Though the men frequently exceed the bounds of sobriety on these +festivals and holidays, they rarely become quarrelsome. It is, +however, by no means unusual for them to keep in a state of +intoxication for days; alleging this, with perfect _sang froid_, as an +excuse for any neglected promise or unfinished job. + +The 'Omatsurie,' or 'Merchants' Great Festival,' which is only +celebrated in the principal towns, takes place about the middle of +July, and may be considered to be an exhibition of the different +trades, as the merchants and craftsmen of the country show the +choicest specimens of their wares and handicraft in a kind of trades' +procession. Like all the rest of their festivals it has a religious +signification, the people believing that misfortunes in business are +warded off by it. Upwards of five hundred trade trophies figure in one +of these processions, the imposing nature of which may be imagined +from the gorgeous materials and fantastic dresses depicted in the +illustration. The car in the foreground bears the trophy of the +wax-figure makers, whose trade is one of the most lucrative in Japan, +as the Japanese not only perpetuate their celebrities by wax-work +effigies, but the majority of the people, being professors of the +Sintoo religion, have Lares and Penates of the same material, called +'Kamis,' which are supposed to intercede on their behalf with the +Supreme Being. And this is in addition to regular wax-work +exhibitions, which are very popular, and the sale of toys which are +hawked about the country by travelling dealers. + +[Illustration: Travelling Merchant (Native Drawing.)] + +[Illustration: OTINTA LAMA.] + +The merchants have a general right of _entree_ to all parts of the +town on these occasions. In the illustration, the procession is +passing through the official quarter of Yeddo, the Tycoon's palace +forming the subject of the background. They halt from time to time in +their progress, which is enlivened by songs descriptive of their +various callings, and the beating of huge drums, and blowing of +strange discordant instruments. There is a kind of analogy between our +industrial exhibitions and these festivals; and, whatever the purpose +may be for which they were originated, it is plain that they admirably +represent the industry, wealth, and resources of the country. + +'Otinta Sama' is a comical divinity, who is laughed at by some, and +believed by others to inhabit certain miniature temples, which are +crowned with cocks with outspread wings, as that bird is supposed to +be his favourite incarnation. On holidays and festivals, his temples +are frequently carried about on the shoulders of his votaries, who are +generally the most ignorant and superstitious of the people. This is +always a subject of merriment with the unbelievers, who crowd round +the temples and oppose their progress, and indulge in witticisms at +the expense of the divinity and his bearers. This sometimes leads to a +disturbance, but only when the parties concerned have been indulging +too freely in their favourite saki. + +[Illustration: Saki-drunk. (Native drawing.)] + +The intercession of Otinta Sama is principally sought in times of +drought or of heavy rains; the temple in the one case being brought +out and exposed to the sun, and in the other sprinkled with water, by +way of intimating the immediate necessity for his good offices. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FIRES AND FIRE-BRIGADES + + +Fires are necessarily frequent, as the majority of the houses are +constructed of wood; and such dangerous articles as paper-lanterns, +small charcoal fire-boxes, and movable open stoves, for household +purposes, are in common use. The candles burnt in the paper-lanterns +render them extremely dangerous, as they are fixed by a socket inside +the lower end of the candle, which fits on a peg in the +lantern--generally very loosely; and as they flare a great deal, very +little wind or motion will cause a conflagration. Fires are, mostly +attributed, however, to the 'chebache,' or small charcoal fire-box, +which is used for smoking purposes. It is placed on a small stand in +the middle of the thickly-matted rooms, the smokers sitting round +drinking saki, and occasionally filling their small pipes. Their +method of smoking, like all the rest of their habits, is remarkably +peculiar; for, after inhaling a few whiffs, the smoker invariably +knocks out the half-consumed remnant on the 'chebache,' and, presently +refilling, commences another pipe, and so on, two or three times in +succession, rarely troubling himself about the ashes of the last, +which the slightest current of air may carry unperceived to smoulder +in the combustible flooring. + +[Illustration: A FIRE BRIGADE ON ITS WAY TO A FIRE.] + +Fires occur frequently, notwithstanding the great precautions which +are taken for their prevention. Town and country are divided into +districts, for which certain of the inhabitants are responsible. Each +of these has its alarum, with observatory and regular watchers; while +every guard-house is provided with a supply of ladders, buckets, and +other necessary implements. Whenever a gale is coming on, the +'Yoshongyee and Kanabo,' or 'watch and fire look-outs,' who on +ordinary occasions only go their rounds by night, parade the towns +with rattles and clanking iron instruments, as a warning to the people +to keep their fires low. + +They have numerous fire-brigades, which are well organized, and +remarkably efficient. In the illustration one of them is seen hurrying +along the street to the place of action. On the right, a watchman is +striking an alarum, and another may be noticed, half-way up an +observatory in the distance, pointing out the direction of the fire. +The white building on the other side of the street is a fire-proof +storehouse, in which the public documents and valuables of the +district are deposited whenever a fire breaks out in it. + +[Illustration: Yoshongyee and Kanabo. (Native drawing.)] + +A Japanese 'Shecase,' or fire-brigade, passing silently along the +streets, lighted by its weird red-and-black distinguishing lanterns, +is a strange sight. Some of its members wear armour, with helmets and +black-lacquered iron visors, and carry 'martoe,' or 'fire-charms,' and +various necessary implements; others are clad in head-and-shoulder +pieces and gauntlets of light chain-armour, to protect them while +pulling down and unroofing houses, which is their especial duty. All +have a regular fire costume, from the 'Oki Yaconin,' or 'head man,' to +the bare-legged coolie, who carries the badge of the brigade in large +red characters on his back. On arriving at a fire, a _point de tete_ +is selected--generally a house, on the roof of which the fire-charms +are immediately fixed, as if to forbid its further advance. These +charms (the circular white objects with black mouldings) have, of +course, as little effect on one element as Canute's celebrated +command had on another; but the people put such faith in their virtue +that their presence is a powerful auxiliary in prescribing the limits +of fires, which are rarely allowed to pass the bounds marked out by +them. The firemen fight with the flames as they close on the charms, +like men determined to stand by their colours to the last, rushing +into the burning houses, pulling them down, and drenching the blazing +thatch, with great courage and endurance. When, by thus putting their +shoulder to the wheel, the fire is fairly subdued, they turn round and +point exultingly to the martoe as the Hercules that has procured the +result. On one occasion, at a fire in the village of Omura, adjoining +Yokahama, the charms and their supporters were actually licked by the +flames from the house opposite to that on which they were fixed, whose +thatched roof was pulled off while in a state of rampant ignition by +fire-coolies, who with bare hands, and no other protection than their +saturated clothing, fought with the actual fire. One plucky fellow +fell through the roof while thus employed, and, as the spectators +still shuddered at his anticipated fate, rushed out apparently +uninjured, and, re-ascending, resumed his fiery task with unabated +vigour. Although the fire-charms were triumphant on this occasion, +they did not escape unscorched, and several engines had to be kept in +constant play upon them and their supporters, to prevent the one from +ignition, and the other from being baked in their armour like crabs in +their shells. + +The engines in present use are made of wood, and, though simple, are +efficient in damping the roofs of houses (which, being tiled with thin +squares of wood, are very inflammable), putting out embers, and +playing upon the firemen, who, as already indicated, prefer being +stewed to being roasted. The Japanese, however, are thoroughly aware +of the superiority of our engines, which will probably soon take the +place of their own, as the people are singularly quick in availing +themselves of anything useful. + +The townspeople generally calculate on being burnt out once in every +seven years, and whenever this calamity falls upon them, no time is +lost in rebuilding. For instance, in December, 1864, a fragment of +blazing wood, from a fire which destroyed the United Service Club at +Yokohama, was blown across to the village of Omura before alluded to, +which was half burnt down, greatly endangering the General Small-Pox +Hospital and the huts of the Royal Marine Battalion in its rear. But +early next morning, while the embers of the old houses were still +smoking, new ones were in course of erection, and before night some of +the industrious occupants were fairly roofed in afresh.[2] + +[Footnote 2: As an illustration of the spirit which characterises +British merchants in their intercourse with the Japanese, it may be +mentioned that a liberal subscription was promptly got up for the +re-establishment of these burnt-out villagers; but, although the +Japanese Government seemed thoroughly to appreciate the kindly spirit +in which it was offered, national pride came in the way of its +acceptance, and the people were only induced to waive their objection +on its being urgently pressed upon them that the fire which destroyed +the Foreigners' Club was the cause of the calamity.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DOMESTIC LIFE. + + +It is impossible to mark the even and peaceable tenor of Japanese +life, the politeness, industry, respect for superiors, and general air +of cheerfulness and content, that pervades all classes, without +admiration of the wise regulations which preserve such order amongst +them as a people. Quarrels and blows are almost unknown in families; +the husband is gentle, the wife exemplary and affectionate, and the +children singularly obedient and reverent to their parents: yet 'Spare +the rod and spoil the child' is a precept totally disregarded. The +children are never beaten, nor do the parents allow themselves to lose +their tempers in rebuking them, however great the provocation may +be--one remarkable result of the complete self-abnegation inculcated +by their social system. + +[Illustration: A JAPANESE WEDDING.] + +The relative position of father and son is very striking. From an +early age the latter enjoys the entire confidence of the former, who +not only treats him as a grown-up person, but frequently refers +disputed matters to his arbitration, invariably abiding by his +decision. Again, on a son's arriving at manhood, the parents often +resign their property in his favour, relying on him, with a confidence +rarely misplaced, for maintenance during the remainder of their lives; +and so sacred is this trust considered, that in case of the son's +demise it devolves indisputably on his wife and children. So far, what +could be more promising? But, alas! like everything else, Japanese +life has a dark side, and in this case it consists of a repulsive +custom, which permits indigent parents to sell their daughters for a +term of years into a state of bondage, for purposes of the most +degrading nature. This possibility more than counterbalances all the +brighter features of their domestic economy. Generally speaking, when +young girls find themselves a burden to their parents, they seek +employment in the tea-houses, where they are well looked after and +instructed in various accomplishments, for which they serve a certain +apprenticeship, and at its expiration generally marry, as girls so +educated are eagerly sought after. + +There are two forms of marriage, either of which is legally binding. +One is a religious, and the other a civil contract, not very +dissimilar from our marriage by the registrar, saving that the bride's +parents sign for her. Whichever form is used, the parents receive a +sum of money from the bridegroom; but in neither case is the husband +supposed to see the face of his bride until all due formalities have +been performed. The religious ceremony takes place in a temple: the +pair, after listening to a lengthy harangue from one of the attendant +priests, approach the altar, where large tapers are presented to them; +the bride, instructed by the priest, lights her taper at the sacred +censer on the altar, and the bridegroom, igniting his from hers, +allows the two flames to combine, and burn steadily together, thus +symbolizing the perfect unity of the marriage state; and this +completes the ceremonial. + +The illustration represents the private ratification of the civil +contract, which is a simple form, by which the parties take upon +themselves the respective duties of husband and wife. The veiled +figure in white is the 'hanna-yomie,' or 'bride,' in the act of +acknowledging the 'hanna-moko,' or 'bridegroom' (who sits opposite to +her in an official dress), by partaking of the nuptial saki. This +'saki,' or 'wine,' is prepared by two intimate female friends of the +bride, who first pour it into the gold and silver lacquer vessels on +the stand, which respectively represent the husband and wife, and +then, taking the vessels in hand, mix the contents in a cup, and +deliver it to the 'shewarin,' or 'master of the ceremonies,' who hands +it to the bride, and then to the bridegroom, and both partake of the +contents, which act constitutes the marriage. + +Although young ladies are employed to mix the nuptial saki they do not +attend on the bride. Such offices as are required are performed by a +married couple, the shewarin and his wife. It is they who make the +necessary arrangements, and provide the pheasants that appear in the +recess; which signify that the hanna-moko, like the cock-pheasant, +will always jealously guard his charmer, who, like the shy hen-bird, +will readily respond to the call of her mate. + +[Illustration: A Dose of Moxa. (Native drawing.)] + +A more practical idea of the requirements of married life may be +deduced from the annexed woodcut, representing the application of +moxa, which is very commonly used as a remedy for rheumatism, and to +promote circulation. + +Japanese women make excellent wives: they are never idle in their +houses; and when other occupations fail them, the spinning-wheel, or +loom, is brought out, and materials for clothing their families are +prepared. In the country, the women share equally with their husbands +and children in agricultural labours; early and late whole families +may be seen in the paddy-fields transplanting rice, or superintending +its irrigation, for which the undulating nature of the country affords +great facility. + +[Illustration: Transplanting Rice. (Native drawing.)] + +Notwithstanding the laborious nature of their tasks they have always a +cheerful greeting for the passer-by, even under extremely irritating +circumstances, as they are greatly plagued by leeches, which swarm in +the paddy-fields. + +The result of the constant attention paid to the cultivation of the +soil is astonishing. Our farmers would gaze with surprise on the +luxuriant crops of cereals, roots, and vegetables; and this is solely +owing to the care taken in preparing the soil, which is not naturally +productive. Weeds are never to be met with in the fields, which, +however, from the constant manuring bestowed upon them, lack the sweet +fresh smell of our own. + +With regard to education, it is rare to meet with a Japanese who +cannot read, write, and cipher; and in buying and selling they use +computing slides like the Chinese, by the aid of which they quickly +settle the amount to be paid. They do not, except in the higher +classes, receive what we understand by a general or scientific +education, the members of each trade or profession being only +instructed in what pertains to their own affairs--a fact the inquiring +stranger soon discovers. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE TYCOON, DAIMIOS, AND ARISTOCRACY. + + +The Government of Japan consists of an oligarchy of feudal princes, +called Daimios, wielding absolute authority in their respective +provinces, but subject to the general control of one of their number, +(selected from one of three great families), called the 'Tycoon,' who, +assisted by a 'Gorogio,' or 'Great Council,' presides over the affairs +of the state in the name of the 'Mikado,' or 'Spiritual Emperor,' its +supreme head. + +The office of Mikado is apparently the cause of most of the +disturbances which agitate the country. Its temporal importance lies +in possessing the power of issuing decrees, bestowing titles, and +delegating authority to others; and princes discontented with the +Tycoon are constantly intriguing against his legitimate influence with +the Mikado. For instance: an attempt was made in 1864 by a powerful +coalition, headed by Choisiu, prince of Nangato, to obtain possession +of the Mikado's person. This was only prevented after a severe +struggle by the bravery of the Tycoon's guard, to whose care the +palace and its inmates were entrusted. During the conflict a large +portion of the sacred city of Miako was burnt. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO PAYING A STATE VISIT.] + +The Tycoon only leaves Yeddo when affairs of state require his +presence elsewhere. His palace is situated in the heart of the city, +and is surrounded by grounds several miles in circumference, and +enclosed by a deep moat. It is there that he receives the compulsory +visits of the grandees of the empire, one of whom, on the point of +being ushered into the audience-chamber, is shown opposite, in his +robes of ceremony, and attended by a sword-bearer, in token of his +high rank. The bonze, or priest, who precedes him, does not impart any +religious signification to the visit, as priests commonly act in the +double capacity of spy and master of the ceremonies. The screen, which +forms the background of the illustration is worthy of attention, as +its subject is taken from the Japanese mythology, and represents the +great sun-god from whom Ten-zio-dai-zin, the patron goddess of the +empire, sprang. + +In public, these oligarchical princes are invariably surrounded by all +the pomp of feudal state, and when they travel are escorted by large +bodies of retainers. At Kanagawa, which adjoins the settlement of +Yokohama, the foreigner has frequent opportunities of witnessing their +processions as they pass to and fro along the 'tokaido,' or 'great +public road,' when they are going on their compulsory visits to Yeddo +from their own country palaces. Nor is much danger attached to this, +as the passing of Daimios whom it would be dangerous to meet on the +tokaido, is always notified by the authorities to the consul. On +witnessing a Daimio's procession for the first time, it is hard to +realise that it is not a scene from some gorgeous pantomime, ao +brilliant and varied are the costumes of the retainers, and so totally +different is it from anything which European eyes are accustomed to +gaze upon. But should anything excite the risible faculties of the +observer, his hallucinations are likely to be quickly scattered by the +scowls of the resolute-looking fellows passing by with 'hand on +sword,' needing but little encouragement to 'set a glory' to it, 'by +giving it the worship of revenge,' as they are extremely jealous of +the honour of their prince, and regard the presence of foreigners on +the tokaido at such times as an insult. This circumstance is also +rendered more galling by foreigners sitting coolly on their horses by +the road-side as the great man passes, generally in a low norimon, on +which they must necessarily look down--in contradiction to Japanese +etiquette, which permits no inferior to look down upon a +superior--while the people of the country are either abjectly +kowtowing to him or patiently waiting in their closed houses until his +passing shall set them once more at liberty. + +A review given the by two ministers for foreign affairs to Sir +Rutherford Alcock, shortly before his departure, was a very imposing +spectacle. The approach of the ministers was announced by the beating +of drums (which are sometimes carried on the shoulder and struck by +the palm of the hand) and the blowing of conch-shells, each instrument +being sounded three times in succession, at short intervals. Men in +armour carrying banners, bearing the Tycoon's crest, headed the +procession. They were followed by a large drum in a square case, +carried by two men, and the conch-blowers; then came a number of +spearmen in armour; officers on horseback immediately preceding the +ministers. On arriving at the ground they dismounted, and were +received by Sir Rutherford Alcock, the remainder of their retinue +passing on and forming in rear of the others, to the left of the +English garrison, consisting of the second battalion of the 20th +Regiment, the Royal Marine battalion, and detachments of Royal +Artillery, of the 67th Regiment, and Beloochees, who were drawn up in +brigade in honour of the occasion. At the request of the ministers the +garrison marched past and performed a few manoeuvres, concluding with +discharging blank cartridge in squares and in skirmishing order. The +rapidity of the fire appeared to make a great impression on them. This +over, the Japanese performance commenced; which was a representation +of their ancient order of battle, the retainers dividing and forming +in lines opposite one another, and about one hundred yards apart. The +proceedings were conducted by two marshals on foot; they began by +forming the spearmen in line, with emphatic guttural commands, +stamping of the feet, and flourishing of gilt batons, to the end of +which wisps of paper were attached. All were habited in magnificent +armour: some wore complete suits of mail; others chain armour, lined +with gorgeous silks. Broad lacquered hats were here and there +substituted for helmets; or both were dispensed with, and the temples +of the combatants bound with linen cloth, which is their usual +headdress in action. Presently a signal was given, on which the +opposing lines commenced simultaneously to 'mark line double.' At a +second signal they faced into Indian file, and the marshals, placing +themselves at their head, led them off at a swinging trot, the whole +party flinging up their heels like boys playing at 'follow my leader,' +until startling guttural shouts from the marshals caused the +glittering lines to halt and face each other. The horsemen, who had +hitherto taken no part in the pageant, were now stationed in rear of +the centre of the respective lines, and added greatly to the effect by +their crested helmets, their richly gilt armour, and the heraldic +banners, which were attached to the back of the cuirass and floated +about two feet over their heads. As soon as the horsemen were +stationed the exciting part of the sham-fight began, by the lines +being wheeled backwards and forwards in wings from the centre, and +into zigzag formations from central points, with a slow 'stamp-and-go' +march, the spears being flourished with each motion and pointed high +and low, and right and left, as in our bayonet exercise. The marshals +regulated the movements of their respective lines with great accuracy, +the one being retired directly the other advanced, so that the +relative distance was never altered. After a time both parties +suddenly assumed a sitting posture and exchanged howls of defiance, +which grew fiercer and fiercer, until a simultaneous rush, as if to +engage, finished the performance from which the representatives of +barbaric warfare retired amid the hearty cheers of the representatives +of the bayonet and rifle. + +[Illustration: A Daimio Retainer. (Native Drawing.)] + +Though most of the Daimios have enormous revenues, and are surrounded +by men devotedly attached to them, the policy of the country so +trammels their actions with formalities and espionage as to keep them +in considerable subjection to the Tycoon; nor is even the privacy of +their houses respected, for their families are retained in Yeddo, as +hostages for their good behaviour, while they are absent in their +principalities. As an occasional relaxation from the cares attendant +on their high position, they avail themselves of a privilege called +'naiboen,' which enables them to share incognito in the pleasures and +amusements of their countrymen. Those drawings and coloured +representations of scenes connected with the higher classes which so +largely engross the attention of Japanese artists, generally depict +naiboen intrigues and adventures: these convey, however, a very +exaggerated idea of the manner in which the Daimios conduct themselves +on these occasions. + +[Illustration: Coolies carrying Norimon. (From Native Drawing.)] + +The family in the house-boat witnessing a pyrotechnic display in the +bay of Yeddo, may be regarded as a faithful representation of a +Daimio's party enjoying the naiboen. The great man in his light summer +robe has apparently cast aside the cares of office, and seems +thoroughly to enjoy the cool evening breeze and the society of his +wives, only one of whom has a legal claim to that title, by right of +which she takes precedence of the others. Of the two bonzes, or +priests, in the stem of the boat, one, probably, is a member of the +family, and the other its spy, for even naiboen excursions are not +exempted from espionage: indeed the Japanese are so habituated to this +custom that they generally regard it as a necessary check upon +themselves. Naiboen excursions to the tea-houses are very frequent, +notice being sent previously in order to insure proper accommodation +and privacy: the latter precaution being principally taken on account +of the ladies of the family, who never go beyond the palace except in +a norimon guarded by armed retainers. + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO AND FAMILY WITNESSING FIREWORKS.] + +In their homes, the aristocracy are as simple in their habits as the +rest of the people. They are much given to study, the favourite +subjects being poetry,[3] history, astronomy, and logic. The children +are usually taught the rudiments of education by their mothers, and as +they advance in years, are either privately instructed by masters or +sent to the great schools at Miako, which are said to be attended by +upwards of four thousand scholars. + +[Footnote 3: A very interesting volume of translations of Japanese +Lyrical Odes has lately been published by F.V. Dickins, Esq. M.B.: +Smith, Elder, & Co.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE COURT OF THE MIKADO. + + +The spiritual Emperor of Japan is supposed to be a direct descendant +of the gods, and as such enjoys the adoration, as well as the fealty +of his subjects. Unfortunately, his divine attributes deprive him of +the free exercise of his human functions, as his feet are never +permitted to touch the ground out of doors; nor is he allowed to cut +his hair, beard, or nails, or to expose himself to the rays of the +sun, which, would detract from the excellency of his person. His +principal titles are, 'Zen Zi'--'Son of Heaven;' 'Mikado,'--'Emperor;' +and 'Dairi,' or 'Kinrai,'--'Grand Interior:' the latter denoting the +perpetual seclusion of his person. It is said that his ancestry can be +traced in an unbroken line from nearly 700 years before the Christian +era. + +The Mikado never goes beyond the precincts of the Imperial residence, +which occupies a large portion of the city of Miako, comprising +numerous palaces and gardens; and connected with it are the schools +alluded to in the last chapter, which are established on the plan of a +university, and are much resorted to by the children of the nobility. + +[Illustration: A MINISTER OF THE MIKADO ON A RELIGIOUS EXPEDITION.] + +Whenever this great personage wishes to take an airing, he is carried +by fourteen men in a large norimon with latticed windows, through +which he is able to see without being seen; and even when granting an +audience he is said to be concealed from view by bamboo screen-work. +His court consists of the members of his own family and certain great +officers of State appointed by the Tycoon, who nominally receive and +promulgate his commands; but, in ordinary times, he has no real power +in the temporal affairs of the empire, and only refuses to confer +legality on the acts of his lieutenant under the pressure of intrigue, +or of undue family influence. + +To relieve the wearisome monotony of his life, as well as to prevent +the possibility of the sacred race becoming extinct, he is allowed +twelve wives, who are chosen from the most beautiful daughters of the +chief princes of the empire. These ladies occupy separate palaces in +the immediate vicinity of his, where they are attended by their own +retainers; but only one of them enjoys the rank of empress, although +they are all treated with the deference due to royalty. He is also +said to have an unlimited number of concubines, who reside within the +bounds of the Imperial establishment. + +The distinctive mark of the members of the Mikado's court and of the +ladies of his family consists of two black patches placed on the +forehead, and in the arrangement of the hair, which is gathered up in +a long cue and curved over the head by one sex, and worn dishevelled +and without any kind of ornament by the other. Though the Mikado has +little influence in the secular affairs of state, his authority in +religious questions is supreme; but it is doubtful if he personally +takes any part in the solemnities which are constantly occurring at +Miako. + +The subject of illustration represents one of these sacred +observances: the procession is coming from the Mikado's palace, which, +properly speaking, is a temple, being full of idols and effigies of +the 'Kamis,' or 'canonised saints.' The principal figure is the third +minister of state, and from this circumstance the white dresses worn +by the 'Kargardhee,' or 'fire-bearers,' and the presence of some of +the Imperial children, it is probably a midnight pilgrimage to some +neighbouring shrine, in honour of the manes of a departed member of +the family. + +The early education of the Mikado's children is entrusted to the +ladies of the court: the sons, while still young, are sent to +different religious fraternities; and the daughters, on attaining a +suitable age, are bestowed in marriage on the nobles of the country, +except the eldest, who is appointed chief priestess of the temple of +the Sun at Issie, which contains the shrine of Ten-zio-dai-zin, to +which all Japanese are supposed to make a pilgrimage once in their +lifetime. + +The Mikado is said to spend the greatest portion of his time in the +society of his wives, who contribute to his amusement by singing, +dancing, and theatrical entertainments. The latter sometimes take +place in the open air, as in the scene depicted opposite; on which the +'Grand Interior' and a select party are supposed to be looking down +through the jalousies of the palace. The vocal, instrumental, and +theatrical talents of the performers, are here called into play, the +arena for the latter being the 'Mekoshee,' or movable stage, in which +a female figure may be noticed declaiming her part. The long-handled, +fantastically-coloured umbrellas, belong to the Imperial attendants +taking part in the theatricals, whose hair, it will be noticed, is +arranged according to court etiquette. + +[Illustration: A Begging Criminal. (Native Drawing.)] + +The men whose features are concealed by their broad hats are +'Ninsokee,' or 'public singers.' Generally speaking they belong to the +aristocratic class, and are reduced to earn their livelihood in this +manner in consequence of some misdemeanour, on account of which their +property has been forfeited to the state. Their occupation is in +itself a punishment, as Japanese gentlemen never sing, regarding that +accomplishment as derogatory to their dignity. A certain class of +criminals also wear a disguise of this nature, as shown in the +woodcut. + +[Illustration: THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE IN FRONT OF THE MIKADO'S PALACE.] + +[Illustration: LADIES OF THE MIKADO'S COURT PERFORMING THE BUTTERFLY +DANCE.] + +The band here represented is much stronger than those that generally +figure in Japanese orchestral and theatrical entertainments. Music is +not used, as with us, to fill the interval between the pieces, but +accompanies the performers throughout; the louder instruments being +energetically struck as the singing becomes impassioned or the actors +declamatory. + +The butterfly dance is another specimen of the amusements with which +the ladies of the Mikado's court while away their monotonous +existence. As here shown, it is a private performance, of which the +Empress and her principal attendants are the only spectators. The +insects are personated by two of her ladies, who mimic their motions +and sing praises of the different flowers they pretend to alight upon, +to the accompaniment of a band of fair musicians. But the most +interesting part of the affair is a spirited dialogue, in which they +cleverly criticise, under floral appellations, the different ladies of +the court, in a manner equally gratifying and flattering to their +royal mistress. + +[Illustration: Lady waiting on the Mikado. (from Photograph.)] + +The Mikado is always waited upon by the ladies of his court, and is +said never to eat twice from the same vessels, which are broken to +pieces as they are removed. An intelligent yaconin, however, on +being questioned about this point, was much amused; and, though he +professed ignorance of the subject, was evidently very sceptical on +the matter of the dishes. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +The 'HARA KIRU.' + + +Although we have long been aware of the existence of this peculiar +mode of suicide, the exclusive policy of the Japanese has placed +insuperable difficulties in the way of obtaining accurate information +concerning it. + +A more enlightened policy is now gaining ground in the country. The +chromo-lithographs that illustrate these 'Sketches' are fac-similes of +paintings by native artists, selected from a series lately published +at Yeddo, and sold to foreigners with the connivance, if not by +permission, of the authorities; for the spy system in Japan is so +perfect, that illicit dealings are next to impossible. + +As Japanese punishments entail disgrace on every member of the +culprit's family, the 'Hara Kiru,' or 'happy dispatch,' which is the +only exception, is regarded as a great privilege by the classes +entitled to avail themselves of it These consist of the nobility, +military, and official of a certain rank holding civil appointments. + +It seems to be a prevalent idea that this sacrifice is reserved for +political offences; but this is not the case, as crimes of all +descriptions are condoned by it. + +A simple act of suicide does not constitute the 'Hara Kiru.' To render +the act legal, and to ensure the heir and family of the person +performing it against disgrace and loss of property, an order for its +performance must be issued by the Tycoon, or by the suzerain prince of +the culprit. + +[Illustration: THE TYCOON'S MESSENGERS READING THE SENTENCE.] + +The Japanese, being a high-spirited and patriotic people, consider +that death under any circumstances is preferable to dishonour; and the +privileged classes always carry about with them when they travel the +paraphernalia used at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru,' in token of +their readiness to prove their patriotism, or to die rather than +disgrace their family. + +The dress consists of a robe and 'harakama,' or 'winged official +dress,' of coarse white cloth--white being the funeral colour of the +country--which is undistinguished by the crest or any sign of the rank +of the owner. There is also the disembowelling knife, the blade of +which is about eight inches long, and very sharp. + +When the sentence of the 'Hara Kiru' is awarded, or the humble request +of a defeated politician to perform it is acceded to, a formal +document is made out and duly signed by the competent authorities. It +is then delivered to two commissioners, by whom it is conveyed to the +culprit. + +Should the proposed victim be a Daimio of importance, and sufficiently +powerful to set the Tycoon at defiance, the delivery of the imperial +mandate is likely to be attended with unpleasant results, as the +bearers are sometimes waylaid and murdered by retainers of the doomed +prince, and have frequently to resort to stratagem to accomplish their +task. But when once the mandate is delivered, the prince must submit, +or he would lose caste even with his own followers, so strongly are +the Japanese imbued with respect for the ancient customs of their +country. + +The accompanying illustrations represent the different formalities +that are observed at the performance of the 'Hara Kiru' by a Daimio. + +On receiving the official intimation of his sentence, he orders the +necessary preparations to be made, and informs his friends and +relatives of it, inviting them to share in a parting carouse with him. + +On the appointed day, after taking a private farewell of his family, +he receives his friends. He is habited in his white robes, and +supported by two of his relatives or ministers, similarly attired. +When the time arrives (which is previously arranged with the +commissioners) he takes leave of the guests, as on any ordinary +occasion, and enters the screened enclosure, accompanied by his +supporters. It will be noticed, that the retainers guarding the +exterior and entrance are barefooted, which is a mark of respect in +honour of the rank of the culprit, and of the solemnity of the +occasion. + +The Tycoon's messengers then read the imperial mandate, which +proclaims that, in accordance with the ancient custom of the country, +the Daimio is permitted honourably to sacrifice himself for its +benefit, and thus to expiate in his own person the crime or offence he +has committed against the welfare of the state. In the illustration, +the two officials charged with this disagreeable office are sitting +opposite the Daimio and his friends, reading the fatal document, their +suite surrounding them in respectful attitudes. + +The whole party wear the official dress, which intimates at once the +respect due to the victim and the official nature of the ceremony. + +The second scene shows the Daimio on the point of performing the +sacrificial ceremony. His forelock is reversed, as a sign of +submission to his fate, and to assist the executioner, who, as soon as +his master goes through the form of disembowelling himself with the +knife on the stand, will, with one blow of his razor-edged sword, +complete the sacrifice by decapitation. Only the two chief +commissioners appointed by the Tycoon, and the sorely-tasked +supporters of the victim, remain to witness the last act of the drama. +The rest of the party await its completion in the adjoining +compartment of the enclosure, which is expressly constructed for that +purpose. + +The funeral procession, which is the subject of the next scene, is +accompanied by all the pomp indicative of the high position of the +deceased. The mourners wear robes of white cloth, and all the feudal +paraphernalia are draped with the same material; which, as before +mentioned, is used in Japanese mourning. The coffin is carried near +the head of the procession; it is a square box of resinous wood, +covered over with white, and the body is placed in it in a sitting +posture. + +[Illustration: THE SACRIFICE.] + +[Illustration: A DAIMIO'S FUNERAL.] + +[Illustration: CREMATION OF THE BODY.] + +[Illustration: RELATIVES COLLECTING ASHES.] + +All the members of the family attend the funeral, either on foot or +in norimons. If the wife and the heir be absent in Yeddo, they are +represented by the nearest relations. In this instance both are +present, from which it may be inferred that the sacrificial act has +taken place in the neighbourhood of Yeddo. + +Although the Japanese sometimes bury their dead, they generally +practise cremation. Repulsive as this custom is to European ideas, it +must be remembered that the Japanese are not singular in preferring +it, as several of the most civilised nations of antiquity considered +it the most honourable mode of disposing of the bodies of the dead. +While the body is being reduced to ashes the priests tell their beads +and chant prayers for the soul of the departed, as the followers of +almost every religious sect in Japan believe in a state of purgatory. + +The last scene shows the wife and son of the victim of the 'Hara Kiru' +collecting his ashes and depositing them in an earthenware jar. This +is afterwards sealed down and conveyed to the cemetery, or temple, +which contains the remains of his ancestors. + +Some of the Japanese cemeteries are very extensive; and they are +generally situated in secluded, picturesque spots, in the +neighbourhood of the towns and villages. + +The graves are small, round, cemented receptacles; just large enough +to receive the jar containing the ashes. If the body is buried (which +only happens when the deceased is friendless, or too poor to pay the +expenses of cremation), the head is always placed pointing to the +north. The tombstones are ordinarily about three feet high; and are +either square or circular in shape, resting on square pedestals, in +which small holes are cut to contain rice and water. The supplies of +these are replenished from time to time, generally by the women of the +family, lest the spirit of the deceased should revisit its grave and +imagine itself neglected. Sometimes flowers are placed before the +graves, and flowering sprigs of peach and plum are stuck in the ground +about them. + +Like the Chinese, the Japanese burn joss-sticks to propitiate the +deities in favour of their departed relatives; and the neighbourhood +of a graveyard may generally he detected by the peculiar aromatic +odour emitted during the burning of these. For some time after a +funeral the relatives daily visit the tomb and intercede for the dead, +holding their hands up in the attitude of prayer, and rubbing the +palms together as they mutter their monotonous orisons. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +NATIONAL GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS. + + +Notwithstanding the industrious habits of the Japanese, they are great +lovers of pleasure, and much addicted to sight-seeing; theatres and +wax-work exhibitions are very numerous, and jugglers, top-spinners, and +tumblers, are regular _habitues_ of the streets. + +Though they do not allow pleasure to come before business, they do not +hesitate to associate it with religious observances; and on solemn +festival occasions, the vicinity of even the most sacred temples is +occupied by a variety of shows and common stalls, for the sale of +sweetmeats, toys, and coloured pictures. + +Their principal athletic amusement is wrestling, which may he regarded +as the national game of the country. It is very generally practised, +and pairs of 'brawny fellows' are to be frequently met with of an +evening in the outskirts of towns and villages, either crouched down +in the preliminary attitude, which resembles that of angry +fighting-cocks, or dragging one another to and fro like frogs +struggling over a choice morsel. The game is necessarily a dragging +and pulling one, its grand object being to force the opponent beyond a +certain boundary. + +So popular is it, that in addition to public performers, who travel +about the country exhibiting their prowess, the Daimios keep private +bands: each district has some especial champion; and every Japanese a +favourite '_smoo_' as they term the wrestlers, whose exploits are +canvassed with an enthusiasm totally at variance with the stolid +indifference which usually characterises the people, when any subject +is broached that does not directly concern their ordinary vocations. + +The professional wrestlers are generally men of herculean proportions. +From constant practice they attain a muscular development that would +eclipse that of our prize-ring champions; but their paunchy figures +and sluggish movements render any further comparison impossible, as +they neither practise nor appreciate what we call training. Size and +weight are prized more than activity in the limited arena to which +their performances are confined: so, instead of walking down +superabundant flesh, they endeavour to increase it, dieting themselves +on rice and fish, which is far from productive of any Bantingite +result. The illustration of the Great Wrestling Amphitheatre at Yeddo +conveys a fair idea of the estimation in which athletic games are held +by the Japanese. The enclosure is capable of containing several +thousand spectators, and is always filled when a match of importance +takes place. + +In the centre is the '_docho_,' or 'boundary-ring,' which is about +eighteen feet in diameter. The game is generally decided by one or +other of the combatants being forced against this boundary; for, +although a fair throw counts, it rarely decides the mastery, as the +great weight and the crouching position of the wrestlers necessitate +dragging, pushing, and even carrying; and the tenacity of their grasp +is such, that any other results are almost impossible. + +The price of admission to these exhibitions is very low; and, like +everything else of a public nature, is regulated by the government +Officials are appointed to superintend the arrangements, and to see +that no accidents arise from overcrowding. For this purpose they are +provided with a box that overlooks the whole building. + +The lofty scaffolding outside the enclosure is a time stage, from +which the commencement and duration of each match are intimated to the +audience by a certain number of strokes on the drum that surmounts it. + +[Illustration: PUBLIC WRESTLING IN THE GREAT AMPHITHEATRE AT VEDDO.] + +Before each wrestling-match commences, the 'geogee,' or 'judge,' who +superintends it, shouts out the names and exploits of the contenders, +who, after kowtowing very ceremoniously to one another, rise to the +preliminary attitude. + +At a signal from the judge the combatants commence. At first they move +cautiously about the centre of the ring, watching a favourable +opportunity to close, which they presently do with deep guttural +exclamations. Then great working of muscle and tugging and straining +follow, the spectators cheering on their respective favourites, until +the fall of the geogee's fan--which is the moment depicted by the +artist--proclaims the victor. + +Thundering plaudits greet the hero of the occasion, who presently +strolls about among the assembled multitude, attended by his 'coegi,' +or 'servant,' who collects the offerings with which they liberally +reward his exertions. When money fails, articles of clothing are +frequently bestowed--and sometimes too freely, as it is by no means +unusual for both sexes to half denude themselves at these exhibitions; +and it is a favourite joke with the women to send their male friends +to redeem the articles from the wrestler. + +Although fencing is a military exercise, it is so commonly practised +by the Japanese 'yaconinierie,' or 'soldiery,' who comprise a large +portion of the population, and is entered into by them in so spirited +a manner, that it deserves to be classed as an amusement. + +[Illustration: Yaconins fencing.] + +The woodcut is a very faithful representation of yaconins fencing. The +masks cover the whole of the head; and the arms, breast, and hips, are +protected by cuirass, petticoat, &c. of leather ribbed with bamboo. + +The fencing sticks are of the same length as the +'obi-todee-auf-catana,' or 'great fighting-sword.' They are made of +split canes, bound tightly together, and are used with both hands. + +The Japanese fence well, and deliver their points with great +precision, especially an awkward downward thrust at the breast. + +They deliver their cuts and points with fierce guttural exclamations, +which are peculiarly disagreeable to European ears; especially when +the listener is located in the vicinity of a guard-house, whose +occupants notify their employment at daybreak with such cries as +'Hie-e! Ah-h! Atturah-h!' ('That's at! that's into you!') and continue +this information, accompanied by the clashing of their sticks, and +occasional chuckles, until late in the afternoon. + +The Japanese are great frequenters of the theatres, of the interior of +one of which the illustration is a very good representation--the +exterior is generally very like that of the temples; and in some, the +ground-floor is laid out with miniature lakes and bridges, the +audience looking down on the performance from lateral and opposite +galleries. + +The stage is a little smaller than ours, but sometimes has a promenade +through the centre of the theatre, which facilitates by-play, to which +the Japanese attach great importance. The body of the house is divided +into boxes, which are generally taken by family parties, who bring +their provisions with them and remain all day, as the performances +begin about 10 A.M. and last until late in the evening. Their plays +are very tedious, although enlivened by a good deal of smart +_repartee_ and telling jokes, but the morality even of the most +correct is very questionable. Love, of course, is the prevailing +feature; and the adventures of the principal heroes contain enough +bloodshed and murder to satisfy the most ardent admirer of sensation +dramas. In their hand-to-hand encounters they cut and slash at one +another with naked swords, which they manage very skilfully, never +permitting the blades to come into contact. The female parts are +performed by boys and young men, who, with the assistance of paint and +powder, make admirable substitutes for women, though singing and +dancing-girls are frequently introduced as divertissements. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A THEATRE.] + +[Illustration: Getting ready to go to the Theatre.] + +Kite-flying is also a favourite amusement; and old age and childhood +may frequently be seen side-by-side, tugging at soaring monsters, in +the construction of which great ingenuity is displayed. + +The Japanese often play with cards, which are about a quarter of the +size of ours; and they are much given to gambling, although it is +strictly prohibited, and, when detected, severely punished. But the +most popular in-door game is & sort of combination of draughts and +chess, which frequently engrosses the players for hours at a time. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS. + + +Crimes against property are rare in Japan, which is owing to the +high-spirited and honourable feelings that actuate all classes of the +community; but from the feudal nature of the government, the small +value attached to life, and the deadly weapons constantly carried, by +the military classes, who are notoriously proud and revengeful, crimes +against the person are very frequent. + +A great check upon criminal offences is the severity of the +punishments inflicted, and the disgrace entailed upon the culprit's +family. + +Although the laws are extremely severe, and in their administration +there is neither jury nor counsel, justice is delivered with great +impartiality; and the judge, who is generally the governor of the town +or district in which the offence has been committed, is entrusted with +considerable discretionary power. + +When a prisoner is being examined his arms are bound to his sides by a +rope, which also passes round his neck, the end of which is held by an +official, who, if his charge prove unruly, manages him by pulls and +jerks. + +'Thrashemono,' or 'public exposure,' is associated with all Japanese +punishments, and is said to be in itself a great preventive of crime, +as the spirited Japanese dread being held up to the reprobation of +their acquaintance more than they fear the extreme penalty of the law. + +[Illustration: MODE OF CONDUCTING A CRIMINAL TO EXECUTION.] + +The illustration, showing the mode of conducting a criminal to +execution, is an instance of 'thrashemono.' The culprit is bound on a +horse, and is preceded by a placard, borne by his relatives or +neighbours, and indicating his crime. In this manner he is conducted +through the town to the place of execution, where his sentence is read +to him. He is then placed (with his limbs still bound) over a +freshly-dug hole, where he is supported by his relatives till the +executioner's sword performs its task. + +After execution, the heads of malefactors are generally exposed: that +of Simono Sedgi (the lonin who was decapitated in the presence of the +British garrison of Yokohama, for being the organizer of the +assassination of Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird of Her Majesty's +20th Regiment) was exhibited on the public stand at the guard-house at +the entrance of the town. + +This man was a fair specimen of the lonin type, and was a most +determined ruffian, whose whole life had been a career of crime. + +When exposed in the streets of Yokohama the day preceding his +execution, he conducted himself with great bravado, remarking on the +improvements in the town since he last visited it, and expressing his +regret that he had not killed a consul. + +At the place of execution he made an impassioned speech, in which he +declared that he was a gentleman by birth, and had studied the arts +and sciences, and never believed the government would sacrifice a +Japanese for the death of a foreigner. He said that the days would +come when they would repent the encouragement they were now giving to +strangers; and ended by complimenting the executioner on his +well-known skill. + +The lonin differs from the ordinary criminal, and is thus ably +described by the highest authority on Japanese matters:[4]-- + +'As a noble or head of a house is responsible for all who are of his +family, or claim his protection, when any of his people are resolved +upon a desperate enterprise they formally renounce the protection and +declare themselves "lonins;"--in other words, outlaws, or friendless +men: after which no one is responsible for their acts, and this is +considered a highly honourable and proper thing to do. + +[Footnote 4: Sir Rutherford Alcock. See 'Capital of the Tycoon.'] + +The worst of this system is, that any one harbouring or assisting a +lonin endangers his head; and such men are, therefore, compelled to +resort to robbery and extortion as means of supporting themselves. It +generally happens that this legalised method of taking the law into +their own hands drives those who avail themselves of it into a series +of crimes, and frequently they become the associates of common +thieves. + +Of the gang represented in the illustration as robbing a rich +merchant's house, one or two probably are lonins, the rest being +thieves in disguise. + +The servants, kowtowing before two men, whose naked swords plainly +intimate the consequences of any attempt to give alarm, or to offer +resistance to their demands, have apparently been collecting all the +money in the house and are laying it before the thieves. The oblong +boxes are iron safes, in which the Japanese keep their money. + +From the position of the other members of the gang, it is evident that +they have not got all they require, and are watching something going +on in the interior of the house. They have probably learnt that the +merchant has to forward some money for the purchase of goods by a +certain date, and know exactly how much to expect. + +In the spring of 1865 the Tycoon, in levying a tax on the Yeddo +merchants, congratulated them on the fact that the portion of the +country under his immediate control was exempt from the depredations +of lonins; but notwithstanding this statement, a robbery of the nature +described took place in the capital immediately after the issue of the +Tycoon's manifesto, and a lonin concerned in it gave as an excuse for +his conduct, that he had learnt that the money was intended for +foreigners, who were settled in the country in opposition to the laws +of Gongen Sama, which had never been revoked. + +With such dread are these men regarded by the non-combatant classes, +that it frequently happens that one or two will go into a village and +extort what they require without the slightest resistance being +offered. + +[Illustration: LONINS, OR OUTLAWS, ROBBING A RICH MERCHANT'S HOUSE.] + +[Illustration: EXPOSURE FOR INFIDELITY.] + +As a rule, Japanese punishments resemble those inflicted by the +Chinese, and seem to be based on the Mosaic principle of 'an eye for +an eye and a tooth for a tooth.' Arson, for instance, is punished at +the stake; and a thief who endeavours to conceal the results of his +robberies by burying them, has the disadvantages of that mode of +concealment impressed upon him, by being himself embedded for a day or +two in the ground, with only his head out--a mode of instruction that +rarely requires a repetition of the lesson. + +_Apropos_ of this punishment is the testimony of an eye-witness, who, +in passing the public execution place at Yeddo, noticed a head on the +ground, which he supposed to have been recently struck off. He had +turned away with a shudder, when a laugh from the bystanders caused +him to look again, when, to his great astonishment, the head was +vigorously puffing at a pipe which the facetious executioner had a few +moments before been smoking himself. + +The last illustration shows a man and woman undergoing public exposure +for adultery--a crime which is rare in Japan and which is punished +with great severity. + +With such detestation is it regarded, that, in addition to all legal +cognizance, the husband is permitted, in certain instances, to avenge +himself by taking the lives of the offenders upon the spot. + +The board on the right contains the official intimation of the crime. + +The curious instruments depicted in the woodcut are Japanese emblems +of justice and are to be seen at all the guard-houses; they are used +to catch runaway offenders or to pin a drunken yaconin against a wall +or house, and so facilitate the task of disarming him without danger +to the captors. + +[Illustration: Sodingarami, Satsumata, and Squobo.] + +Although the Japanese use torture to extract information from +obstinate criminals, they employ all necessary caution to preserve +life; and a doctor and responsible officer are always present when it +is employed, as representatives of the respective claims of humanity +and justice. A singular punishment, to which only the nobles of the +country are liable, is secret banishment to the island of Fatzisiu, +which is situated on the northern coast of the empire. It is small and +barren, rising perpendicularly from the sea. The only communication +with it is by means of a basket, which is lowered from an overhanging +tree to the water, a distance of about fifty feet.[5] From this island +there is no return, and the unhappy, incarcerated nobles, are +compelled to support themselves by weaving silks, which are the most +beautiful the country produces. A junk visits the island once a-year, +when the silks are exchanged for provisions. + +[Footnote 5: In 1853 an English man-of-war visited this island, and +two of the officers were hoisted up in the basket for the purpose of +taking sights. One of them, who was my informant, describes it as a +walled-in barren island, with no other mode of ingress or egress than +that described.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +SUPERSTITIONS AND RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES. + + +The Sintoo faith and Buddhism are the prevalent religions of the +Japanese. The teaching of the other sects is modelled more or less on +the tenets inculcated by these two. Some, however, hold a philosophic +doctrine, which recognises a Supreme Being but denies a future state, +holding that happiness is only to be insured by a virtuous life. + +Sintooism may be regarded as the national religion of the country. It +inculcates a high moral standard; and its chief personage is the +Mikado, or spiritual emperor, who is considered to be a mediator +between his subjects and the inhabitants of the other world. + +Every Sintoo has the image of a patron 'kami,' or 'saint,' enshrined +in his house, to which he lays open his necessities and confesses his +shortcomings, and by whose intercession with the Supreme Being he +trusts at his death to be translated to the regions of the 'kamis,' as +they designate their heaven. + +The wicked are supposed to be consigned to the abodes of the +disembodied spirits, who are punished according to the nature of their +crimes. For instance, saki merchants who have sold bad spirit are +believed to be confined in stagnant pools; and murderers are supposed +to haunt the graves of their victims, until the prayers of their +relatives release them. Purity of life and body is the leading feature +of the Sintoo faith. As an emblem of the natural purity of the soul, +mirrors are hung up in the temples; and the more ignorant people (who +in Japan, like every other country, are most influenced by +superstitions) believe, as they look into the mirror, that the Supreme +Being sees their past lives as easily as they do their own faces. The +value attached to indulgences and charms is very great, and the sale +of them contributes largely to the revenues of the Mikado. Charms are +eagerly purchased by the lower orders, who carry them about their +persons, and never let anybody touch them except themselves. + +At a tea-house at Kamakura, one of these charms was accidentally +dropped by a lively little 'moosmie,' or 'girl,' who was waiting on a +party of foreigners. One of them picked it up, and was on the point of +opening the small box in which it is placed for safety when she +discovered the loss, and made a desperate rush for its recovery. On +finding the importance attached to it, the 'friske,' as she called it, +was handed round the group as she eagerly darted after it; and on one +of the party pretending to light a cigar with it she burst into tears, +and was not to be pacified until it was restored. + +A religious observance of great importance with the Japanese is +'Osurasma,' or 'praying a soul out of purgatory,' as they wisely +consider that even the most holy must have some small peccadilloes to +answer for. + +This ceremony takes place in the seventh month after death: a white +lamp is its emblem. This is hung up at the entrance of the mourners' +houses, while they offer oblations and burn joss-sticks. Food is also +prepared and laid out, in case the spirit of the departed, finding the +journey to the regions of the 'kamis' a long and wearisome one, should +need refreshment. + +No Japanese dreams of entering a friend's house while the white lamp +is hung up, or of disturbing in any way the privacy of a family +engaged in these solemn duties, as the spirits of the departed are +firmly believed to revisit their former dwellings at such times, if +they have not already entered into a state of bliss. + +[Illustration: SELLING INDULGENCES BY PUBLIC AUCTION.] + +[Illustration: PRAYING A SOUL OUT OF PURGATORY.] + +In one of their festivals they make pilgrimages at night to the +graves of their friends, on which they place food and hang lamps. It +is said they believe their ancestors to come from heaven to them on +these occasions, and imagine that they return again in small boats, to +which they attach lanterns, and which they place on the water at +ebb-tide, on the evening of the last day of the festival, and eagerly +watch, out of sight. An old fisherman, however, who was observed +intently watching his frail bark floating out to sea, explained, on +being questioned, that he whose lamp burnt longest caught most fish; +and judging from the old man's solemn manner there was no doubt he had +perfect faith in the truth of his statement. + +However gross their superstitions may he, there is no doubt that they +affectionately revere the memory of their dead, and treat them with +quite as much respect as the most civilised nation in Christendom. + +In battle the Japanese always carry off the fallen. + +At the bombardment of the Simono-seki forts, at the entrance of the +Suwo-Nada, or 'Inland Sea,' in September 1864, Prince Choisiu's loss, +according to one of his own officers, amounted to upwards of 500 +killed and wounded; but all had been removed when the brigade of +English, French, and Dutch, under the command of Colonel Suther, C.B., +Royal Marines, took possession of the forts early next day. At the +storming of a stockade (which was pluckily defended) by two battalions +of Royal Marines and the light-armed companies of the British +squadron, the Japanese were noticed carrying away their dead and +wounded, and several were unfortunately shot while thus employed.[6] + +A few nights afterwards large fires were noticed in the interior, +which were said to be the funeral pyres of those who had fallen in the +defence of the forts and stockade. + +[Footnote 6: The whole of the operations, with the exception of the +storming of the stockade, which took place late in the day after the +French and Dutch had embarked, were under the personal superintendence +of the English and French admirals.] + +The illustration representing the last offices, depicts a custom of +Buddhist origin which is generally adopted by the Japanese. They +believe that shaving the head of the dead propitiates the deities in +their favour. It is also considered to be an emblem of sanctity, and +the bonzes, or priests, always keep their heads clean-shaved. Even +children intended for the priesthood, as well as certain religious +societies of both sexes, are similarly distinguished. Odder-looking +creatures than these bald-headed specimens of humanity can hardly be +imagined. + +[Illustration: Itinerant Sweetmeat Vendor. (Native drawing.)] + +The itinerant sweetmeat vendor shown in the woodcut is a specimen of +the class of Japanese most prone to superstition. The lantern he +carries serves not only to light his way but to advertise his wares: +it also bears his name, no Japanese of the lower orders being allowed +to stroll about at night without a lantern so distinguished. + +[Illustration: SUDANGEE, OR LAST OFFICES.] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES. + + +Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries connecting +it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or 'Imperial High +Road,' to which occasional reference has been made. + +Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of more than +ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care bestowed upon it +for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to keep that portion of it +which passes through his dominions in repair), become a broad and +well-graduated highway. + +It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines, cryptomerias, +and other lofty trees; and small plantations of the graceful bamboo +are generally to be seen in the neighbourhood of the roadside houses. + +The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to be +observed rising one above another, in that wild conglomeration +peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the Island of Nipon the snowy +cone of Fusiyama is almost always visible from the higher ground. + +The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields are +sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the ground permits. +The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered with rich crops of +cereals, which are watered by natural or artificial streams. + +As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional glimpses of the +sea meet the eye, often with a series of headlands jutting one beyond +another into it, and distant islands dotting the horizon. + +By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; and in +their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, hydrangeas, +violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild flowers. + +[Illustration: Carpenters at work. (Native drawing.)] + +Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and their +hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large +portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes +through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent +opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for +mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the +woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the +Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the +interior and its occupants open to the road. + +The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside +scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will +be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in +the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are +the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they +faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles. + +With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the +way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart +for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido +belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath +their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages. + +[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.] + +[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.] + +Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy +travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. It is true that +the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the +approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable +to Europeans; but the Japanese are accustomed to this, and proceed +with their journey after half-an-hour's detention without being in any +way put out by it. + +[Illustration: Tea-house Girl waiting. (Native drawing.)] + +The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido have a +great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A smiling welcome +from the pretty waitresses employed at these places may always be +anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, however slight their +requirements may be, they are certain to be promptly and courteously +attended to. + +If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to the +tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along the road, +where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a trifling cost. + +Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are much +frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on account of the +beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph opposite represents one +of these parties, some of whom appear to have been indulging too +freely in saki. The fellow dancing and waving the fan about is +apparently addressing a love-song to the lady opposite, whose husband +is evidently desirous of putting a stop to the flirtation. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE. + + +There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to English +ideas, and so materially affecting the national character, that it is +necessary to call special attention to them. + +The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one in the +country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, or spiritual +and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the people. + +All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every governor +of a town or district is associated with a vice-governor, who is an +'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is in turn spied upon by others. In +this way a constant check is kept upon the executive of the empire. + +In addition to this acknowledged system, government officials are +frequently watched by secret spies, who, for aught they know, may be +some apparently trusty friend: so that, even in the absence of their +double, they can never be certain that they are free from supervision. + +In private life families spy on each other, for which purpose they are +divided into coteries of five households, the heads of which are not +only responsible for themselves, their families and servants, but also +for the other members of the coterie; and any wrong-doing in one +household must be immediately reported to the proper authorities, to +secure the rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence. + +To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried, that a +whole district sometimes suffers for the offence of one of its +residents. In the towns where the streets are intersected with +barriers a few hundred yards apart, which are always closed at night, +the people living within these enclosures are often under the ban of +the officials for some irregularity which has occurred within the +limits. This constant espionage has, of course a very pernicious +effect upon the character of the people, as it necessarily instils +feelings of distrust and suspicion among near neighbours. Yet it is +marvellous how well their social system works, and still more +marvellous that the officials, who in public life practise every kind +of deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts deservedly +so, distinguished in private life for their truthfulness, candour, and +hospitality. + +The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner in which +the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All Japanese perform their +ablutions once or twice a-day; for which purpose the poorer classes +resort to the bath-houses, which are generally open to the road or +street. + +[Illustration: UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE.] + +Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one of these +is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, however, is more +for convenience than in compliance with the demands of modesty as is +evidenced by the fact that a male attendant is supplying water; and +that his presence is plainly a matter of perfect indifference to the +women bathing, with their children, in his immediate vicinity. + +But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary feature of +Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There men, women and +children, perform their ablutions together, with all the apparent +innocency of our first parents. The proceedings are conducted with +perfect order and good-nature. The steaming occupants make way for one +another with ball-room politeness; they laugh and chat over their +tubs, discuss the public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter +occasionally to the open door or window, to look at something which +has attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a passing +friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for itself of +their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in their conduct. + +Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the cleansing +process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial compliment, as +regular bathing-men are employed for the convenience of those who +require such attention. + +The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day and the +evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always full. + +[Illustration: Going home from the Bath-house. (Native drawing.)] + +The _modus operandi_ is very simple. The bather, after duly depositing +his straw shoes at the door and paying a few cash for admittance, at +once proceeds to disrobe himself, placing his garments in an allotted +compartment. He then secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm +water, and, squatting down before it, lathers himself with a +vegetable, soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this +stage of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with +his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until the +remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be possessor +of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions. + +It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must have immoral +effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil consequences to it. They +say that, being accustomed to it from childhood, it only enables them +to carry out those habits of cleanliness which distinguish alike their +persons and their homes. + +It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to protect +themselves from a second bath on returning from the bath-houses to +their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with the umbrella (which +bears his name and direction, by the way) is an instance of this. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LOVE OF FLOWERS. + + +One of the many traits of the refinement which characterises all +classes of Japanese is their passion for flowers, which the singularly +rich and varied nature of the flora of the country, aided by the +magnificent climate, enables them to cultivate with great success. + +Every Japanese has some knowledge of the art of gardening; and, +however humble a house may be, it generally has a potted flower or +dwarf tree about it: or, in the absence of that, a flowering branch of +peach or cherry, placed in water. + +Regular professors teach the art of dwarfing, training, and grafting +trees and plants, and of laying out miniature landscapes, into which +artificial mountains and valleys are introduced, and very frequently +lakes, studded with lilliputian fern-covered islands, around which +gold and silver fish may be seen darting about; or, if the sun is hot, +taking refuge under curious Japanese bridges, or the broad leaves of +the lotus, which usually cover a portion of the surface--the only +thing out of proportion, probably, in the details of the miniature +landscape. + +The sitting-apartments in Japanese houses are generally situated at +the sides or back; and either open upon flower-beds, grounds of the +above description, or some kind of enclosure, shaded by peach or +pear-trees, trained trellis-fashion overhead; or by cedars, with one +solitary bough twisting fantastically over the ground, showing, in its +unnatural contortions, the skill of the artist, the other branches +having been lopped off, or stunted, to facilitate the growth and +training of this one. + +Gardens for the sale of dwarf trees and flowers are also very common. +Some are perfect _bijoux_. As a rule the varied collections of +flowers, planted in coloured china pots, are arranged, with very +agreeable effect, in tiers of shelves round the sides, and on stands +about the gardens. + +Many of the dwarf trees, especially the maples, have great variety of +foliage, the result of constant grafting. To such an extent is this +practised, that it is rare to find pure botanical specimens in a +Japanese garden. Plants are sometimes cultivated for their berries as +well as for their variegated foliage. One very beautiful specimen, +producing at the same time bright scarlet and yellow berries, is +believed by many to have been obtained from cuttings of an exquisite +shrub, which is said to be the principal ornament of the regions of +the 'Kamis,' or Japanese heaven. + +Even the fern family undergoes a strange metamorphosis at the hands of +Japanese gardeners. Some of the fronds are artificially variegated; +and others, on reaching maturity, have a curious crumpled appearance. +Again, the roots of certain small species are frequently twisted into +curious devices, and hung up in grottoes, or shady corners. The effect +of these, when the roots are partly concealed by the fresh young +fronds, is very pretty. + +Nearly every fortnight a fresh flower comes into season, and is in +great demand for the time; heavy prices being readily paid for fine +specimens. + +The poorer classes commonly buy flowers from men who gain their +livelihood by hawking them about the streets. They buy them not only +to gratify their tastes, but as offerings to their Lares and +Penates--patron 'Kamis;' or to decorate the tombs of departed +relatives--a religious ceremony which is strictly observed. + +Flower-shows are often held in the large towns, and are much +frequented by the people. + +[Illustration: A FLOWER SHOW.] + +The illustration represents a chrysanthemum show. These flowers are +much esteemed by the Japanese, who pay more attention to size and +brilliancy of colour than to perfume. The stone in the centre is +called a 'skakeshe.' On it, poetry in praise of flowers is inscribed. +This is a custom of very ancient origin, and poetical inscriptions on +stones and rocks are to be often seen in public places. The piece of +ornamental stonework is an 'ishedoro,' or 'stone lamp,' which is very +common in gardens, and is much prized on account of the historical +associations connected with it. + +The Japanese have many floral compliments. A very pretty one is +intimated by a present of seeds (especially if presented to a +foreigner returning to his own country), the purport being--'Plant +these seeds about your home, and, when you see them growing, think of +me.' + +[Illustration: Girl with Flowers.] + +As an instance of the influence which flowers have upon the Japanese +character, the word 'hanna,' or flower, is commonly used as a term of +endearment: it is usually applied by parents to a favourite daughter, +or by a lover to his mistress; it is also used to distinguish the +bride and the bridegroom, as 'hanna-yomie,' 'hanna-moko.' Floral +love-tokens (although they only consist of a single sprig) are as much +prized among the Japanese as among ourselves; and are, no doubt, +sometimes + + "Treasured in their fading," + +as the Japanese are not only poetical, but much given to sentimental +reflections. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES OF JAPANESE MANNERS AND +CUSTOMS*** + + +******* This file should be named 13051.txt or 13051.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/0/5/13051 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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