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+Project Gutenberg's Building a State in Apache Land, by Charles D. Poston
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Building a State in Apache Land
+
+Author: Charles D. Poston
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2004 [EBook #11226]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Starner, Garrett Alley and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+From articles of Charles D. Poston in the _Overland Express_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+1894
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I
+
+
+How the Territory Was Acquired
+
+
+In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the
+northeast corner of Stockton and Washington, of considerable
+architectural pretensions for the period, which was called the
+"Government Boarding House."
+
+The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their
+families, a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal,
+and several lesser dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there.
+In those early days private mansions were few; so the boarding-house
+formed the only home of the Argonauts.
+
+After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in
+the spacious parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics.
+
+It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had
+been instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the
+acquisition of additional territory; not that there was a pressing
+necessity for more land, but for reasons which will be briefly stated:
+
+1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,[A] the
+government of the United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans
+from the incursions of Indians within the United States boundary, and as
+this proved to be an impractical undertaking, the damages on account of
+failure began to assume alarming proportions, and the government of the
+United States was naturally anxious to be released from the obligation.
+
+2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern
+States were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of
+this element for many years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi
+River to the Pacific Ocean, and the additional territory was required
+for "a pass". It was not known at that early day that railroads could be
+constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher latitude, and it was
+feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the extremes of
+winter.
+
+The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction
+of such a railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as
+the Rio Grande, and it devolved upon the United States to provide the
+means of getting on to the Pacific Ocean. The intervening country
+belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose of acquiring this
+land the treaty was authorized.
+
+The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa
+Ana had usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator
+under the name of President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had
+been convened since they were herded together at the conclusion of the
+Mexican War under protection of American troops.
+
+The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely
+favorable. The treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the
+tariff of 1846 business was prosperous, the public debt small, and the
+future unclouded. The American Minister to Mexico (General Gadsden of
+South Carolina) was authorized to make several propositions:--
+
+1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande
+west to the Pacific Ocean.
+
+2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the
+Yaqui River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include
+the peninsula of Lower California.
+
+3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass."
+
+A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the
+"railroad pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the
+Colorado Rivers south of the Gila River, with the boundary line between
+the United States and Mexico about the shape of a dog's hind leg. The
+price paid for the new territory, which was temporarily called the
+"Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars.
+
+A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the
+Treasury, on the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana;
+but not a dollar of it ever reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana
+fled with the spoil. The remaining three millions were retained to pay
+the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was signed in Mexico on
+the 23d day of December, 1853.
+
+Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting
+parties, in the City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew
+interesting at the Government Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new
+California was hoped for on the southern boundary. Old Spanish history
+was ransacked for information from the voyages of Cortez in the Gulf of
+California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in great
+demand.
+
+In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San
+Francisco with a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor
+Iturbide, the Congress of the Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the
+family of one million dollars; but on account of successive revolutions
+this sum was never at the disposition of the Mexican treasury, and in
+liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant of land in
+California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could
+be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost.
+The heirs then made application to the Mexican government for another
+grant of land in lieu of the California concession, and were granted
+seven hundred leagues of land, to be located in Sonora, Sinaloa and
+Lower California, in such parcels as they might select.
+
+Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a
+single body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient
+to locate the land in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The
+government of Mexico conceded whatever was required, and the grant was
+made in all due form of Mexican law.
+
+In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it
+was urged: That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the
+Pacific, and its waters full of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower
+California was copper-bound, interspersed with gold and minerals,
+illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest
+breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the
+richest of Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials,
+with highly productive agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That
+the country north of Sonora, called in the Spanish history "Arizunea"
+(rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile valleys washed by
+numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate was
+all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to
+an altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the
+Southern Pacific Railroad would soon be built through the new country,
+and that a new State would be made as a connecting link between Texas
+and California, with the usual quota of governors, senators, and public
+officials.
+
+It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure
+the best sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest
+distributed to settlers as an inducement for rapid colonization. The
+enthusiasm increased with the glamour of Spanish history and the
+generous flow of Sazerac.
+
+It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man
+idling away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a
+month; and in the enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration
+of the new territory and to locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have
+foreseen that the attempted location of the Iturbide Grant would upset
+the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under French
+protection?
+
+The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to
+furnish funds for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant.
+This was easily accomplished through some enthusiastic French bankers.
+
+The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure
+the approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San
+Francisco for Guaymas with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were
+not so bad as reckless; not ungovernable, but independent.
+
+The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are
+preserved, show our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of
+January, 1854. The Mexican officials were polite, but not cordial. They
+said Santa Ana had no right to sell the territory, as he was an usurper
+and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. As international
+tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice points
+of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but
+pushed on to the newly acquired territory.
+
+We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that
+the boundary did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger
+territory could have been secured as easily, but the American Minister
+had only one idea, and that was to secure "a pass" for a Southern
+Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The
+pass desired was the Guadaloupe Caņon, used as a wagon road by General
+Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to
+say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass.
+
+The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence
+to us: it belongs to Mexico.
+
+The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the
+United States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison
+with all the other countries of the world, it is still nearly as great
+an enigma as when first explored in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the
+sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive as the valley of the Nile.
+The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits in the open. In
+fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no winter.
+
+The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any
+that I have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are
+not occupied. Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like
+a cloud, and settlers could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover,
+the Apaches have been a continual source of dread and danger. This state
+of affairs is, however, now passing away.
+
+There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of
+towns, missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences
+of former Spanish civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There
+were evidences of a still more remote and mysterious civilization by an
+aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, and can learn but little by
+the vestiges they have left upon earth.
+
+They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities,
+built fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has
+been found that they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled
+vehicles, neither iron, steel, nor copper implements; and yet they built
+houses more than five stories high, and cut joists with stone axes.
+
+How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering
+for their irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the
+Euphrates, the Ganges, or the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas
+grandes) are precisely with the cardinal points.
+
+Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most
+unique edifice in the United States. Just when and how it was built
+baffles human curiosity. Whether it was erected for a temple, a palace,
+or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The settlement or city
+surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten miles,
+judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space.
+An irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or
+settlement, for domestic uses and for irrigation.
+
+The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time
+immemorial, at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming.
+Their tribal organization has many features worthy imitation by more
+civilized people. The government rests with a hereditary chief and a
+council of sages. The rights of property are protected, as far as they
+have any individual property, which is small, as they are in fact
+communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands is
+obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe.
+
+In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently
+asked questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to
+answer. For instance, they inquired, "Who made the world and everything
+therein?"
+
+I replied, "God."
+
+"Where does he live?"
+
+"In the sky."
+
+"What does he sit on?"
+
+In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older
+than the Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the
+requirements of satisfied nationalities. The old men said the marriage
+system had given them more trouble than anything else, and they finally
+abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young people were allowed
+to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they could
+"swap."
+
+In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected
+a stalwart Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the
+English language, and gave him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about
+the size of a saucer, to stand guard in front of my quarters.
+
+One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with
+their arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I
+inquired, "Luis, who is that?"
+
+"That is my brother-in-law."
+
+"Did you marry his sister?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Did he marry your sister?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Then how is he your brother-in-law?"
+
+"We swapped wives."
+
+Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation
+of large personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal
+property, that is, house and household belongings, which he had used
+during life, is committed to the flames as a sanitary measure, and
+whatever he may have left of personal property is divided among the
+tribe.
+
+The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the
+Pimas to pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs
+resembling the Jews, especially the periodical seclusion of women.
+
+The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make
+frequent campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a
+campaign, if they have shed blood they paint their faces black, and
+seclude themselves from the women. If they have not shed blood they
+paint their faces white, and enter the joys of matrimony.
+
+The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and
+domestic utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated
+cotton and manufactured cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men
+understood spinning and weaving, and passed the winter in this
+industrial pursuit.
+
+Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the
+wild fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great
+quantities of poultry.
+
+The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished
+the California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland
+stages, besides their faithful and unwavering friendship.
+
+The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all
+the anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than
+has hitherto been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There
+are similar edifices in Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples.
+These Arizona cliff dwellings are the only edifices of the kind that are
+known to have been inhabited by mankind. They exist mostly in the
+mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient race,
+still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared,
+no doubt, as a refuge against enemies.
+
+At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no
+civilized population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo
+of Tucson contained probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half
+breeds. The Pima Indians on the Gila River numbered from seven to ten
+thousand, and were the only producing population. We could not explore
+the country north of the Gila River, because of the Apaches, who then
+numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have killed
+Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest
+continuous war on record.
+
+It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a
+country destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to
+its junction with the Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort
+Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the American flag. The commanding
+officer, Major--afterwards General--Heintzelman, issued the regulation
+allowance of emigrant rations, which were very grateful to men who had
+been living for some time without what are usually called the
+necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the
+Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing.
+
+It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the
+seaport of the new territory.
+
+The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles,
+and steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post.
+By the treaty with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from
+the mouth of the Rio Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila
+River, thence along the channel of the Gila River to its confluence with
+the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a point at the confluence of
+the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the Pacific Ocean
+six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego."
+
+As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it
+was not presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary
+line would include both banks of the Colorado River in the American
+boundary, but it does. By a curious turn in the Colorado River, after
+passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the opposite bank, the
+boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the River to
+the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of
+California was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary
+line of the State, and consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip
+of land on the bank of the Colorado opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma
+was established, the commanding officer established a military
+reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its junction
+with the Gila.
+
+The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty
+of 1848, was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of
+the Colorado, to indicate the possession of the United States.
+
+While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot
+month of July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of
+land opposite Fort Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties,
+maps, surveying instruments, and stationery, there was not much
+difficulty in making the location. The actual survey showed 936 acres
+within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." A
+town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization.
+
+After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to
+cross the desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the
+journey on mules, with extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as
+much rejoiced as the followers of Xenophon to see the sea.
+
+The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have
+been done if both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the
+Gila had not been recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the
+State of California. The county of San Diego collected taxes there for
+many years. After the organization of the Territory of Arizona in 1863,
+Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a prison there.
+Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the
+"Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not
+involving the validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still
+remains unsettled, as it requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the
+State Legislature to change the boundaries of a sovereign State.
+
+The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there
+as long as the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was
+completed years ago, and forms the great artery of commerce. Immigration
+enterprises of great magnitude have been undertaken with the waters of
+the Colorado River. The river washes fully three hundred thousand square
+miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the Grand Caņon
+only second to Niagara.
+
+"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far
+made is by pumping works, which raise the water from the river and
+convey it in pipes to the lands to be watered. While thus far only a
+limited area is watered by this method, the results are satisfactory,
+and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe systems of
+California.
+
+"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the
+project to irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in
+the arid West, if in the world.
+
+"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a
+point in the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the
+conducting of the waters of this river over an arid waste, that, while
+forbidding in appearance, is known to be capable of great fertility. One
+interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the desert is found in the
+character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the water of
+the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit
+than any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is
+true, in a relative degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By
+constant use of these waters the soil not only receives the reviving
+benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very considerable amount
+of fertilizing material.
+
+"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically
+demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a
+vast area, with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one
+of the most significant suggestions conceivable in connection with the
+new era of irrigation.
+
+"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far
+been one of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in
+this section are equal to any section of the arid West, and because of
+the stability and certainty of this method, it is only a question of
+time when it will be carried into practical force."[B]
+
+In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian
+school, where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in
+learning.
+
+After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San
+Francisco, and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not
+much) before the "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding
+officer of the Pacific, and procured a recommendation to the Secretary
+of War for an exploration of the Colorado River. This was subsequently
+accomplished with beneficial results,--at least for information. In San
+Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for the
+purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening
+the new Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made _via_ Panama.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[Footnote A: It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a
+thousand times, why the Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary
+line. The true inwardness of the treaty is attempted to be explained.
+The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at the junction of the Gila,
+is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney General
+Hart.--C.D.P.]
+
+[Footnote B: Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such
+quotations will occur in this series without further credit.--C.D.P.]
+
+
+
+
+
+II
+
+Early Mining and Filibustering
+
+
+In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the
+new Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention.
+They had something else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of
+Presidents, was very polite, and asked many questions about the new
+acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, promised to order an
+exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get an
+appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they
+could be spared.
+
+During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the
+town was crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had
+an extra bed put in my room at the National, and we messed together. It
+was an advantage to have an officer of the Army who had been in command
+at Yuma to give information about the country, and the association thus
+formed lasted through life.
+
+There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York,
+the seat of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been
+organized under a munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The
+capital stock was a hundred million dollars. The scheme was to build a
+railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean on the proceeds
+of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions of dollars stock
+as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses and
+promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker,
+Secretary of the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas
+Butler King, of Georgia, late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my
+recent superior; Secretary, Samuel Jaudon, late Cashier of the United
+States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the Company, received me at
+dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance with Thomas
+Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages.
+
+This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J.
+Walker was to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the
+secretary, was to display his financial ability in New York and the
+Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of Cincinnati, was agent for the
+Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the State of Texas,
+and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio Grande
+and the Colorado.
+
+I told them all I knew about the Territory,--and a great deal more,--and
+enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company
+by an exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral
+resources. They inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration.
+I replied that I would start with a hundred thousand dollars if there
+was a million behind it.
+
+A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and
+shares sold at an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was
+appointed president, and I was appointed "manager and commandant." The
+office was located in Cincinnati, for the convenience of General
+Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. William
+Wrightson was appointed secretary.
+
+As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this
+arduous undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San
+Antonio, Texas, and I proceeded there to complete the outfit.
+
+San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time.
+Wagons, ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men
+could be found in Texas willing to go anywhere.
+
+At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me
+to go to New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners,
+and as he was going to Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels,
+and received the benefit of his introduction. There were plenty of
+educated German miners about New Bramfels, working on farms and selling
+lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company was made
+up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil.
+
+We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and
+took the road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762
+miles by the itinerary. The plains of Texas were covered with verdure
+and flowers, and the mocking birds made the night march a serenade.
+
+I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military
+officers of the frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first
+military post on the road was Fort Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful
+location. The post was at that time under the command of the famous John
+Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California.
+
+Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks;
+and as he was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept
+an invitation to dinner.
+
+After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers,
+but Magruder said:--
+
+"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest."
+
+I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the
+regulations of the Army."
+
+"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay
+here three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an
+escort with you to overtake it."
+
+So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a
+prisoner of war more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with
+abundant provisions, if they only had French cooks.
+
+After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we
+arrived on the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth
+of July. El Paso at this time was enjoying an era of commercial
+prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. Silver flowed in in a stream.
+
+After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio
+Grande at Fort Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping
+the command on the green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with
+Doctor Steck and his interpreter made a visit to the Apaches in their
+stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre.
+
+There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which
+afforded shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in
+camp,--physically, fine looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day
+was long. The agent distributed two wagon loads of corn, from which they
+made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink.
+
+Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico
+and selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved
+themselves expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of
+the trees, as they are economists in ammunition if nothing else.
+
+Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the
+old triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches
+that I was "a mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock
+nor kill any of my men.
+
+The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would
+not molest us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico."
+
+On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it.
+
+I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely
+among the chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many
+years afterwards an Apache girl told me they could have killed me often
+from ambush, but they remembered the treaty and would not do it. I have
+generally found the Indians willing to keep faith with the whites, if
+the whites will keep faith with them.
+
+After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua
+Mountains, and camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon,
+which empties into the Gila River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the
+rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and about a hundred came thundering
+down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted and well armed.
+Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and
+many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the
+spoil of Mexican foray.
+
+A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got
+out, and everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking
+man named Alessandro, and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a
+parley was called when they reached the rope.
+
+When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and
+trade; that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we
+were not traders, and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at
+this, and made some demonstrations against the rope. I told the
+interpreter to say that I would shoot the first man that crossed the
+rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they thought better of
+it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck off
+for their homes in the north.
+
+I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered
+very brave; but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in
+coming forward, and I cried out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you
+come out?"
+
+He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out
+with a rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German
+pipe in his mouth.
+
+The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high
+mountains and wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and
+camped at the old Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac.
+
+Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac
+means water) is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This
+is the most ancient pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish
+history in the narrative of Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition
+of Coronado in search of gold stopped here awhile, and washed some gold
+from the sands of the Caņon del Oro on sheep skins. It is well known
+that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this experience,
+remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,--Jason in
+Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever
+since, without profound knowledge of its origin.
+
+The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last
+of August the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated.
+
+As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to
+graze in charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two
+weeks' furlough was given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their
+sins, and get acquainted with the Mexican seņoritas, who flocked there
+in great numbers from the adjoining State of Sonora.
+
+Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few
+interruptions by violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused
+by a quarrel among some Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver.
+There were not more than a dozen Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when
+we arrived, and they were not Methodist preachers. The town has grown
+with the country, and now contains a population of nearly ten thousand
+people, of many shades of color and many nationalities.
+
+The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for
+the company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense,
+and fortunately without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the
+scene of our future operations, and the exploration and settlement of a
+territory of considerably over a hundred thousand square miles was
+before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It would not be
+prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had
+hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place
+for storage and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a
+headquarters. We had some hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons,
+ambulances, arms, provisions, merchandise, mining, material,--and
+moreover, what we considered of inestimable value, the future,--in our
+keeping, and a proper location was a grave consideration.
+
+The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita
+Mountains on the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as
+the Arno, flowing from the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which
+had been formerly occupied and cultivated. The presidio was called
+Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just evacuated the presidio
+of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of preservation, minus
+the doors and windows, which they hauled away.
+
+The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church
+of San Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino
+real) to Sonora and Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission
+San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out for the presidio of Tubac to
+establish our headquarters and future home.
+
+There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins
+of Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters,
+repaired the corrals, and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as
+possible.
+
+The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched
+men to the adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws,
+and soon had lumber for doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and
+the primitive furniture necessary for housekeeping. The quarters could
+accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals were ample for the
+animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on the
+north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The
+beautiful Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel
+and grass were abundant in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was
+not more than a hundred leagues to Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of
+California, where European merchandise could be obtained. There were no
+frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder commerce.
+
+In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at
+Tubac comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and
+were ready to begin the exploration of the country for mines. When you
+look at the Santa Rita Mountains from Tubac, it seems a formidable
+undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. Nevertheless, we
+began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and
+enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously
+worked by the Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of
+arrastres and smelters. Gold could be washed on the mountain sides, and
+silver veins could be traced by the discolored grass.
+
+As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived
+in Tubac, Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great
+numbers to work, and skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen
+to twenty-five dollars a month and rations. Sonora furnished flour,
+beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at moderate prices.
+
+A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of
+seeking employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said
+they would work for $10 a day and board; that they got that in
+California, and would never work for less. After staying a few days at
+the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, showing their
+gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at
+Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a
+chance." They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white
+trash.
+
+Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac
+had little holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate
+their farms, in many cases accompanied by their families.
+
+By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a
+thousand souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in
+the vicinity of Tubac. We had no law but love, and no occupation but
+labor. No government, no taxes, no public debt, no politics. It was a
+community in a perfect state of nature. As "syndic" under New Mexico, I
+opened a book of records, performed the marriage ceremony, baptized
+children, and granted divorces.
+
+Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its
+seņoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male
+population from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the
+equilibrium of population, till in some pueblos the disproportion was as
+great as a dozen females to one male; and in the genial climate of
+Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. Consequently
+the seņoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the Santa
+Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling
+provisions they came in state,--others came on the hurricane deck of
+burros, and many came on foot. All were provided for.
+
+The Mexican seņoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier
+population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them
+were good Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and
+the American women "Las Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a
+Mexican woman despises it is a red petticoat. They are exceedingly
+dainty in their underclothing,--wear the finest linen they can afford;
+and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men of northern
+Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect.
+
+This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of
+frontier society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless
+appendages in camp. They could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash
+clothes, sew, dance, and sing,--moreover, they were expert at cards, and
+divested many a miner of his week's wages over a game of monte.
+
+As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally
+authorized to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant
+divorces, execute criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions
+of the ancient El Cadi. The records of this primitive period are on file
+in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo of Tucson, Pima County.
+
+Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as
+the priest there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of
+Tubac tied the knot gratis, and gave them a treat besides.
+
+I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or
+two, and had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according
+to gender, and began to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent
+down Father Mashboef, (Vicar Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after
+the spiritual condition of the Arizona people.
+
+It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix
+up a confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at
+breakfast; but worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me
+with such affection, went away with their reybosas over their heads
+without even a friendly salutation.
+
+It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban
+of the Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by
+the arm, (a man always takes you by the arm when he has anything
+unpleasant to say,) and said:--
+
+"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these
+people; but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes
+of God."
+
+I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be
+lifted. The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and
+swearing, and said they thought they were entitled to all the rights of
+matrimony.
+
+My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and
+had given them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a
+Mexican dollar; and had given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still,
+although the Pope of Rome was beyond the jurisdiction of even the
+Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a restoration of
+happiness.
+
+At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the
+Church to the marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas
+with holy water, and it cost the company about $700 to rectify the
+matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz.
+
+An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never
+be lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the
+opening of mines which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land
+which lay fallow, the employment of labor which was idle, and the
+development of a new country were meritorious undertakings.
+
+The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market
+afforded, besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks,
+and other game, and we obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of
+French wines for Sunday dinners and the celebration of feast days.
+
+It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases
+commerce. We had scarcely commenced to make silver bars--"current with
+the merchant"--when the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of
+primitive commerce. Pack trains arrived from Mexico, loaded with all
+kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase everything they brought,
+whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take in exchange
+silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American
+merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our
+business. We were essentially free traders.
+
+The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost
+enough to purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any
+country of the world, so near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in
+by mountains teeming with minerals. The natural elements of prosperity
+seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our primitive simplicity
+we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and reduce
+them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the
+productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the
+country independent of foreign resources. The result will show the
+success or failure of this Utopian scheme.
+
+The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of
+distributing supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong
+coffee the first thing in the morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at
+noon, and supper at sunset.
+
+Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from
+the mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the
+afternoon. One Sunday we had a fat wild turkey weighing about
+twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers asked permission to assist
+in the _cocina_. It was done to a charm, and stuffed with pine nuts,
+which gave it a fine flavor.
+
+As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of
+San Jose de Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River,
+afforded exercise and diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday
+afternoon. The old mission was rapidly going to ruin, but the records
+showed that it formerly supported a population of 3,500 people, from
+cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, and working
+the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently
+again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the
+gardens of the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in
+a perfect state of preservation.
+
+The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country
+of oases and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the
+governing machine as the sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in
+Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In countries requiring irrigation
+the communal system of distributing water has been found to produce the
+greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government granting
+water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against
+nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question
+will soon come up whether the government has any more right to sell the
+water than the air.
+
+In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared
+at Tubac, and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the
+industry of a German gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon
+produced all vegetables, melons, etc., that we required, and many a
+weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the hospitalities of
+Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had more
+than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for
+entertainment, horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road.
+Hospitality is a savage virtue, and disappears with civilization.
+
+As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory
+yield, we turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River,
+and soon struck a vein of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded
+from the grass roots seven thousand dollars a ton. This mine was named
+in honor of the president of the company, "Heintzelman," which in German
+mining lore is also the name of the genius who presides over mines.
+
+The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was
+shipped, via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132
+cents per ounce for the Asiatic market.
+
+Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required
+some more convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of
+"boletas." Engravings were made in New York, and paper money printed on
+pasteboard about two inches by three in small denominations, twelve and
+one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty cents, one dollar, five
+dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the illiterate
+could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig;
+twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse;
+five dollars, a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the
+hands were paid off every Saturday, and they were currency at the
+stores, and among the merchants of the country and in Mexico. When a run
+of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could have them redeemed in
+silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive system of
+greenbacks worked very well,--everybody holding boletas was interested
+in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on
+the prosperity of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the
+bank of Nature, and industry puts the money in circulation, to the
+benefit of mankind.
+
+In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons
+arrived in the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a
+military post, and for the protection of the infant settlements. The
+officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, and Captain Ewell. The first
+military post was established at Calaveras, and the arrival of the
+officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz.
+
+Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a
+citizens' train of wagons laden with supplies,--twelve wagons of twelve
+mules each,--belonging to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was
+encamped at Tubac I inquired the price of freight, and learned it was
+fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I inquired what he would charge
+to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul them from the
+Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half
+cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,--a ton
+to the wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long
+haul."
+
+Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to
+different cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its
+first reputation as a producer of minerals. The average yield in silver
+was not enormous, as the ores contained a great deal of copper, but the
+silver yield was about fifteen hundred dollars to the ton.
+
+In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La
+Aribac," or Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a
+beautiful valley encompassed by mountains, and containing only a few
+leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802,
+and title obtained from the Spanish government. The ownership and
+occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who
+obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and
+maintained continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the
+company for a valuable consideration.
+
+The validity of the title has been denied by the United States,
+notwithstanding the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before
+the United States Land Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the
+United States Supreme Court, with a fair prospect of the ultimate loss
+of the property. The company conveyed the property with all mines and
+claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,--a woful
+heritage.
+
+In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz
+valley. The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive
+methods of reduction. The farmers were planting with every prospect of a
+good crop. Emigrants were coming into the country and taking up farms.
+Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty Dollar or its
+representative.
+
+The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war,
+going on in Sonora between two factions for the control of the State
+government. Gaudara was the actual governor, and had been so for many
+years, during which time he had accumulated a handsome fortune in lands,
+mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He was a sedate and
+dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite and
+hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without
+property or position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods.
+Consequently a revolution was commenced to obtain control of the
+governorship of the State; and just the same as when King David sought
+refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who were
+refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined
+Pesquiera to rob Guadara. This is all there was,--or ever is, to Mexican
+revolutions.
+
+On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora
+to California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila
+descent, married to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with
+a large family of girls and boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican
+Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets, where
+there was the usual sign,--
+
+  SE COMPRA ORO
+    Up Stairs
+
+The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty
+and graces of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and
+married well.
+
+As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have
+caused many eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should
+not take part in the little revolution going on in their native State
+(Sonora). Their husbands could then become eminent men, annex the State
+of Sonora to the United States, and become governors and senators. It
+was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, and their
+husbands were eminently deserving,--in fact, their husbands were already
+the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had
+been a prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others
+had occupied high position in Federal and State service, and were highly
+respected among their fellow citizens. In this state of affairs the
+eldest brother,--Augustine, was despatched to Sonora to see what
+arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the Americans would come
+from California and help him oust Gaudara.
+
+Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was
+necessary; the substance of which was that the Americans should come
+with five hundred men, well armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and
+establishing himself as governor of Sonora. After that the Americans
+could name whatever they wanted in money or political offices, even to
+the annexation of the State, which was at that time semi-independent of
+Mexico.
+
+Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary,
+returned to California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans
+immediately began to drum up for recruits; but the prosperity of
+California was so great that but a few could be persuaded to leave a
+certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California actually
+started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of
+recruits by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show
+that they crossed the river with only forty-two men and a boy.
+
+With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one
+hundred and thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line
+of Mexico at the Sonoita (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream
+of water struggling for existence in the sands. At the Sonoita the
+invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, forwarded through
+Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State of
+Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and
+they paid no attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of
+Mexico with arms and in hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of
+Altar they diverged from the main road to the west, and took the road to
+Caborca.
+
+The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have
+expected reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to
+a little port called Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as
+it may, no reinforcements ever came: and this little handful of
+Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the little town of Caborca
+without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of the
+States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in
+California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in
+such position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and
+families in California, and all of them had warm friends there.
+
+Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent
+language of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to
+exterminate the invaders and to preserve their homes. The roads fairly
+swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns carried lances, those who
+had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by Mexicans, and
+the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on
+the east side of the plaza.
+
+This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into
+the church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and
+surrendered. My God! had they lost their senses? These forty-two
+American gentlemen, who had left their wives, children, and friends in
+California a month or two before under a contract with Pesquiera were
+butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man
+raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter.
+
+They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could
+have turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old
+friends and acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom
+over the country.
+
+There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I
+know it to be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were
+read, Gabilonda, second in command, swore he would have nothing to do
+with it, and mounting his horse swung the little boy Evans behind him
+and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to Guaymas, from where
+he was afterwards sent to California.
+
+It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the
+hogs to eat, but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug
+and gave them Christian interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of
+the leaders, but a detachment came up the Gila River to Tucson and
+Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise twenty-five or thirty
+men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on the Santa
+Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I
+remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in
+Mexican revolutions. He said,--
+
+"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross
+the Mexican line."
+
+I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly
+demoralized, wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into
+a hospital for their relief, with such accommodations as could be
+afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of the adage that "dead men tell no
+tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in triumph to
+Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of
+the days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera
+with the Mexican government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb
+Expedition, one of the most ill-fated and melancholy of any in the
+bloody annals of Mexico.
+
+The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the
+Mexican government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the
+line, and business of all kinds was paralyzed.
+
+Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los
+Angeles, with only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a
+rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+III
+
+
+War-Time in Arizona
+
+
+The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from
+California, generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of
+death to fall on the boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had
+been massacred at Caborca, and many Mexicans had been killed. The
+abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe over the Mexican
+boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the United
+States.
+
+Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the
+massacre, came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although
+he was perfectly innocent of any crime,--on the contrary, deserved
+credit for his humanity in rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was
+subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial organized by Pesquiera,
+the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green old age as
+Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and
+respected.
+
+When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857,
+the country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines
+were put in operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico.
+Christmas week the usual festival was given at Arivaca, and all the
+neighbors within a hundred miles invited.
+
+In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and
+the sad events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as
+possible. The government had subsidized an overland mail service at
+nearly a million a year, called the Butterfield line, with daily mails
+from St. Louis to San Francisco, running through Arizona. The mail
+service of the West has done a great deal to build up the country; and
+population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its
+future prosperity.
+
+General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the
+mines. Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president
+of the company, as he had contributed about two hundred and fifty
+thousand dollars in money and arms to its resources, with the intention
+of enlisting as much capital as might be required from New England.
+Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled overland
+from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,--1350 miles.
+
+The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the
+contrary, passed within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into
+Mexico on their forays rather than break their treaty with the
+Americans. They could have easily carried off our stock by killing the
+few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from doing so
+from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law
+among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot.
+
+In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox,
+established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one
+hundred and fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the
+company bought all they could saw. They built a house and corral on the
+south side of the Santa Cruz River, on the road from Tucson to Tubac,
+called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very convenient stopping
+place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty Mexicans
+rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches,
+and were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the
+Babaquivera plain, intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the
+Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut
+off), and rescue the animals, offering to divide them with us for our
+assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, and how
+faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa,
+where the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which
+they accepted, as they were new in the country and needed horses and
+mules. The lumbermen joined the Mexicans, and as they could easily
+discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of dust, succeeded in
+forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached the
+river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind.
+
+The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with
+the lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their
+adventure the lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp
+at the Canoa on the Santa Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and
+whisky.
+
+About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual
+quiet Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously
+into the plaza, crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he
+had recovered sufficiently to talk, we learned that the Apaches had made
+an attack on Canoa, and killed all the settlers.
+
+It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we
+could only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start
+until early next morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos
+Apaches."
+
+When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as
+if it had been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were
+smashed, and the house a smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying
+around dead, and three of them had been thrown into the well, head
+foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the burnt houses.
+
+As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been
+fully eighty Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280
+head of animals from the Canoa and the adjoining ranches.
+
+There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort
+Buchanan. The commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in
+pursuit, but the Apaches were in their strongholds long before the
+dragoons saddled their horses.
+
+The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very
+skillful in forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open
+field. Their horsemanship is far superior to American troops, who are
+for the most part foreigners, and exceedingly awkward.
+
+The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far
+more foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous.
+
+In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to
+the presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and
+a fire. Whether he had been run out of California by the Vigilance
+Committee, as many of our "guests" had been, or was escaping legitimate
+justice, was not in question; the imperative cravings of the stomach
+admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to dinner, and
+provided him with all the comforts of home.
+
+At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the
+fire; to which I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar
+the door between us.
+
+The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised
+him to push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably
+get some employment.
+
+He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary
+partnership with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the
+country at that time.
+
+She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent,
+as he had a red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably
+formed the only matrimonial tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman.
+In the course of time John Ward got a hay contract, a wagon, and a few
+yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle Sam's expense. Fort
+Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of dragoons.
+The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a
+step-ladder.
+
+In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son
+Micky Free until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that
+he could not find his oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to
+Major Stein, the commanding officer, that the Apaches had stolen his
+oxen and carried off the woman's boy.
+
+Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill
+in Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe,
+and ordered out a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant
+Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches and recover Micky Free and the oxen.
+Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a Kentuckian, a West Pointer,
+and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a fool; although his
+uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very eminent
+clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family
+from Bascomb of the Confederate X roads.
+
+Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding
+in Sonora, into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The
+Apaches were summoned to camp _under a white flag_; and feeling
+perfectly innocent of having committed a crime against the Americans,
+fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant Bascomb and his boys
+in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen the oxen;
+and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant
+was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed.
+
+Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect
+Wood) managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his
+bonds, and escape. He was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked
+a terrible vengeance for the treachery of American troops to the
+Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in the Chiricahua Mountains,
+1874.
+
+The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years,
+and has scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men,
+women, and children, killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment
+to the settlement of Arizona cannot be computed. The cost of the war
+against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a string of yokes of oxen
+reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his woman's son,
+Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and
+about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that
+profession. I am on very friendly terms with him and all his family, and
+would not write a word in derogation of his character, or of his
+step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate history.
+
+The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of
+unsavory immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas
+and Arkansas, rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days.
+Gambling has been an industrial pursuit since the first settlement of
+the country, and the saloon business flourishes with the prosperity of
+the times. Strange to say, amidst this heterogeneous population there
+has never been a vigilance committee.
+
+The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve,
+with occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of
+1861, when the reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in
+the Arizona mountains. A newspaper had been started by the company at
+Tubac, called _The Arizonian_. Our mail came overland by Butterfield
+coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but at last we waited for
+"the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was started
+out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of
+the West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the
+line and withdraw the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in
+Stein's Pass, killed all of the men, and captured the gold.
+
+In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the
+mines were yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were
+working for good wages, which were paid punctually every Saturday
+afternoon.
+
+One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and
+handed me a note from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order
+from the commanding officer of the Military Department:--
+
+                     Santa Fe, June, 1861,
+  Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:--
+
+  On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy
+  your Post; burn your Commissary and Quartermasters'
+  stores, and everything between the Colorado
+  and Rio Grande that will feed an army.
+
+  March out with your guns loaded, and do not
+  permit any citizen within fifteen miles of your lines.
+
+             (Signed) Major General Lynde
+
+A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid
+before them. The wisest said we could not hold the country after the
+troops abandoned it,--that the Apaches would come down upon us by the
+hundred, and the Mexicans would cut our throats. It was concluded to
+reduce the ore we had mined, which was yielding about a thousand dollars
+a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the worst.
+
+About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried
+off out of the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules.
+
+The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the
+skill of many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of
+adobe, with a gate or bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice
+for the Apaches to saw an entrance through an adobe wall with their
+horsehair ropes (cabrestas).
+
+The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus
+poles (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches
+tried their rope saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up,
+and a log chain wound around each bar and locked to the post; but they
+removed the bars quietly by wrapping their scrapes around the chain, to
+prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The steam engine was running
+day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the rounds of the place
+every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful and
+secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their
+presence on the place was observed,--not even by the watchdogs, which
+generally have a keen scent for Indians.
+
+At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the
+entire herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were
+sleeping under a porch within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as
+soon as possible; but the pursuers soon ran into an ambuscade prepared
+by the retreating Apaches, when three were killed and two wounded. The
+rest returned without recovering any of the stock.
+
+This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not
+be replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or
+provisions; only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be
+kept in stables and fed on grain.
+
+About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining
+Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be
+abandoned.
+
+At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel
+furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand
+dollars worth of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The
+Apaches, to the number of nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and
+compelled its evacuation. The plunder and destruction of property was
+complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and nothing to sleep on
+but the ground.
+
+The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where
+the few people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they
+remained there in a miserable condition until the troops arrived from
+California under General James A. Carlton, United States Army, commonly
+called "Carlton's Column."
+
+General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order
+declaring martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These
+troops garrisoned the country between the rivers, and drove out the
+rebel troops, who had come in from Texas under the Confederate
+government.
+
+After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed
+Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring
+that the American government was broken up, and they had come to take
+their country back again. Even the few Americans left in the country
+were not at peace among themselves,--the chances were that if you met in
+the road it was to draw arms, and declare whether you were for the North
+or the South.
+
+The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they
+were asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico.
+The smoke of burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa
+Cruz valley, where the troops were in retreat, destroying everything
+before and behind them. The government of the United States abandoned
+the first settlers of Arizona to the merciless Apaches. It was
+impossible to remain in the country and continue the business without
+animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to pack
+our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike
+out across the deserts for California.
+
+With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and
+some friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the
+fourth of July, where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another
+journey took us across the Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we
+went by steamer to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to New York.
+
+It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in
+ruins, but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this
+time in machinery, materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc.,
+amounted to considerably over a million dollars, but the greatest blow
+was the destruction of our hopes,--not so much of making money as of
+making a country. Of all the lonesome sounds that I remember (and it
+seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the crowing of cocks on the
+deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that they were
+abandoned.
+
+We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it
+was supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of
+the journey by day and standing guard all night was trying on the
+strongest constitution in the hot summer month of June.
+
+An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the
+deserts to California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book,
+"Across America and Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the
+harrowing scenes preceding the abandonment of the country are only
+briefly stated.
+
+The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the
+change of venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to
+my credit from the silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88
+Wall Street, and I put it up as margin on gold at $132 and sold for
+$250.
+
+After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found
+my old friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically
+called "The Defenses of Washington." The capital of the nation was
+beleaguered!
+
+The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years.
+
+The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and
+Lower California, under direction of Captain--afterwards General--Stone,
+an officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had
+first become acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia
+Barracks, in California, and met him the last time when he was chief of
+staff to the Khedive of Egypt at Grand Cairo, on the Nile.
+
+Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence
+of Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by
+force of arms.
+
+The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been
+furnished by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them
+through their correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had
+been contributed by the entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon,
+as the French were desirous of getting a foothold in Mexico. The
+expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party was considered an
+affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken under a
+valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were
+not satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in
+the enterprise. The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land
+location finally caused the intervention of the French government.
+
+It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation
+of Vera Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish
+soon withdrew, and left the French to pull their own chestnut out of
+the fire.
+
+The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we
+were in the midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity
+to set up Maximilian of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by
+French forces under Bazaine.
+
+No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized
+with the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them
+substantial aid if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to
+New York as a warning,--and the French had had enough of Russians on
+their track.
+
+It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the
+Maximilian Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the
+survey and location of the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and
+recognized as a public debt of the Empire, and such will be found a
+matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no doubt, keep them as
+companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The Grant
+has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs,
+in equity, the original million dollars.
+
+The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American
+boundary line, and many Mexicans took refuge in the United
+States,--among them Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora. His camp was at
+the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa Cruz Valley and his wife is
+buried there.
+
+President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during
+the reign of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled
+to furnish him with a hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession
+of Lower California. The circumstances were recently related for the
+Examiner of San Francisco, by Seņor Romero, the Mexican minister in
+Washington.
+
+During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many
+Americans flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with
+the government of the Confederate States, and consequently with the
+occupation of Mexico.
+
+The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the
+Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora,
+but I never believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted
+a title of nobility.
+
+The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as
+well as the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire
+and the French Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire
+of the People grows stronger every year.
+
+
+
+
+
+IV
+
+Arizona a Territory at Last
+
+
+When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me
+on a call at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a
+territorial government for Arizona.
+
+President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally
+said, "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that."
+
+I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the
+Committee on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona.
+
+The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,--it
+is just like hell--all it lacks is water and good society."
+
+He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss
+the subject.
+
+Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the
+House, and readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial
+government. In a few days President Lincoln appointed an evening, to
+hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona from 8 to 12. The chairmen of
+the committees on Territories attended, and General Heintzelman and some
+other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical data, some
+specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and
+some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a
+territorial government for Arizona was agreed upon.
+
+The country was at that time under martial law,--General Carlton. If any
+system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law.
+Whatever may be the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts,
+they form the only means civilized society has yet devised for the
+settlement of disputes. It is true that a territorial form of government
+was never contemplated by the framers of the Constitution, as no
+provision was made for such a form of government; but this omission is
+covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power to
+"provide for the general welfare."
+
+The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An
+Act to provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of
+time, no doubt, all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the
+territorial form of government is not provided for as a permanency by
+the Constitution, and is moreover anomalous in the American system. The
+people residing in the Territories are to a considerable extent
+disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged American
+citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to
+their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will
+be forced by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights
+of sovereign States.
+
+The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a
+bill dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and
+eleventh degree of longitude west; and providing for the organization of
+"The Territory of Arizona" from the western half. The bill soon became
+an Act of Congress, and was approved by President Lincoln on the
+twenty-third of February, 1863.
+
+The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an
+oyster supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I
+fortified myself with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is
+to become of me?"
+
+They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said:
+
+"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with
+them."
+
+So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the
+office was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth
+about thirty-three cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona.
+
+Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues
+across the plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach
+at Kansas City, and crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by
+river steamer to San Francisco. The Indian goods had been shipped to
+Yuma.
+
+In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just
+returned from Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at
+my expense. He afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings
+in the Apache Country," published by Harpers.
+
+Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky,
+called upon me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of
+priests down to Arizona, to restore the service among the Indians at
+the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac on the Santa Cruz, to which I
+assented with great pleasure.
+
+After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my
+orders from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm
+Barracks for an escort of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and
+prepared for the journey across the Colorado Desert.
+
+We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week
+regaled the Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their
+first presents from Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at
+Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila River some two hundred miles to the
+Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima Indians, gave a warm
+welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods.
+
+At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate
+the mass, and tell the Indians something about God,--remembering my own
+failure in teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians
+assembled, and Father Bosco through my interpreter preached the first
+sermon the Pima Indians ever heard.
+
+At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you
+make me preach to these savages?--they squat on the ground, and laugh
+at me like monkeys."
+
+The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission
+of San Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos,
+a christianized branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were
+my old friends and acquaintances, and received the priests with
+fireworks and illuminations. They knew of our coming, and had swept the
+church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar with mistletoe.
+
+The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,----
+
+  For the Jesuits told them long ago
+  As sure as the water continued to flow,
+  The sun to shine, and the grass to grow,
+  They would come again to the Papago.
+
+I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over
+the goods intended for the Papagos for distribution at their
+convenience.
+
+I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had
+lived there all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing
+his clothes. As nails were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill
+held together by rawhides, and was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In
+the meantime he had taken up with a Papago girl, to the scandal of the
+tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or leave. He
+appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my
+sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the
+mill.
+
+In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona,
+mostly from the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on
+the Hassayamp. Old Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a
+trapper and pioneer since 1836. His name is carved on the walls of the
+Casa Grande with that date.
+
+The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be
+established on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the
+settlers in peace when they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat
+cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried
+off nearly all the stock.
+
+King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man
+among the settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a
+company to go after the Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means
+"fool.")
+
+There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly
+Maricopas. They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted
+principally of panole and jerkey.
+
+They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way
+between Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The
+tanks there are surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the
+country in the vicinity is covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had
+vomited the refuse of the subterranean world to disfigure nature.
+
+The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant.
+Delshay, the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky.
+The Americans had neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he
+was quite put out about it, but partook of panole and jerked beef.
+
+The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made
+demands which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five
+Indians at the council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As
+the Indians became more hostile the situation became more serious, and
+it was evident to the Americans that they were surrounded, and in
+imminent danger of massacre.
+
+Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at
+once that either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so
+he said: "Boys, we have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick
+out your Indian, and I will shoot the chief for a signal."
+
+The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded.
+The only American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my
+Indian agent at the Pima villages.
+
+Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the
+Indian in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and
+transfixed him. They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of
+death.
+
+The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack
+mule, carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with
+Christian services at the foot of an aspen tree.
+
+The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps.
+
+After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into
+the Pima villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me,
+took down the account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans
+engaged in the expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his
+stenography, he asked one of the men if he had any Indian relics. The
+man replied, "Yes, I have got some jerked years," and he presented
+Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on buckskin.
+
+I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among
+the Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a
+company of Pimas and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received
+arms and ammunition from the government, and I had uniforms and swords
+enough for the officers. They soon learned to drill, and already knew
+how to shoot.
+
+The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set
+out all the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when
+we turned east by Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail.
+
+The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Caņon has never
+been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the
+junction of the Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches.
+
+The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,--twenty-four Americans and
+twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as
+the number of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation.
+
+There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on
+the Salt River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with
+the Gila. We camped at the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed
+Salt River at the peak about Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima
+villages, glad enough to get to that haven of rest. It was 100 miles to
+Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any provisions
+between the two places.
+
+There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time,
+except for people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the
+golden harps of New Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the
+government of the United States, in school books; and perhaps had
+enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July oration in youth; but
+these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no government of any
+consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the Democratic
+principle, not for protection but for revenue only.
+
+I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods
+without regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody
+that came along in need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I
+wound up the Indian service with loss of about $5,000 out of my own
+pocket.
+
+At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens
+of gold quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently
+called Vulture, and wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't
+want to buy your mine, but I will give you twenty-five dollars' worth
+of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will go away and leave me alone."
+
+I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King
+of Spain for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish
+grants in Texas, California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest,
+even if the grant had been made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by
+the Continental Congress.
+
+The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I
+know of are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at
+Florence.
+
+The government of the United States can never recompense the people of
+Arizona for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to
+make the plea that a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not
+have conquered this tribe of savages, if the will to do so had existed.
+Now, after forty years of devastation, the government pays the Apaches
+one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in goods to maintain a
+quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an Apache
+outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the
+war-path, which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A
+Century of Dishonor" was a well written book, and contains many
+unpleasant truths.
+
+In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues
+in the territorial government had crossed the plains, and established
+the capital at a remote place in the northern mountains, which they
+called "Prescott," in honor of the Mexican historian. Just as was
+supposed, they quarreled all the way across the plains about who should
+be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had never seen.
+
+Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that
+I had already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes
+of the people. The political machine had not then been organized, and
+the people had some say in the elections.
+
+The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate
+to Congress from Arizona.
+
+The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is
+evidenced by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State
+or Territory in the Union, _per capita_. The Capital was moved from town
+to town, as a political factor in the election of delegates, but now
+rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River Valley, where it will permanently
+remain, as no other place in the Territory can ever rival Phoenix in the
+abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and happiness of life.
+The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water storage in
+reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile.
+
+At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now
+stands, and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It
+had been occupied some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated
+the land by irrigation, and built houses and cities which have gone to
+ruin. The most diligent search has developed but few evidences of the
+extent of their civilization. They had not advanced very far, as they
+left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The land in cultivation
+would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred thousand
+souls.
+
+It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western
+country, to desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in
+Congress.
+
+It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via
+Panama to New York and Washington.
+
+I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman
+(Roscoe Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very
+pompous way:
+
+"I observe you have drawn a front seat,--and as I presume you do not
+wish to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the
+courtesy to exchange seats with me."
+
+I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more
+becoming to my station.
+
+In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my
+seat, and said, "Poston, how is this?--your mileage is $7,200, and mine
+is only $300."
+
+I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?"
+
+He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon."
+
+"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona--that
+equalizes the mileage."
+
+He certified the account, and never said another word.
+
+The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made
+$12,200;--but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and
+presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the
+Territory for which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe
+hardships endured, and money was not spared to bring it to public notice
+on every suitable occasion.
+
+The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they
+are considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having
+any vote nor in any other way being recognized as equals. They were not
+obliged at that time to serve on committees, nor expected to answer the
+roll-call. It was an easy berth for an indolent man without ambition or
+avarice.
+
+The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The
+Civil War had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the
+surface, and their acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look
+over their photographs, now it is like shuffling an old pack of cards
+which have been played out,--they have nearly all gone to the Upper
+Chamber,--in this world or the next. Grow and Holman are the only ones
+in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the House, and
+treated me with the most distinguished consideration,--even to the
+compliment of dining at my house,--which was unprecedented in his long
+public career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my
+wife was a Baptist.
+
+I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An
+appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for
+the construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona
+to become self-supporting. This was the first instance in which
+irrigation was brought to the notice of the government.
+
+President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my
+family lived in the neighborhood where the President had been reared,
+my little girl made him a satchel of corn shucks from the field where he
+had hoed corn barefooted in the briars, thinking he might appreciate a
+souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I escorted my daughter to the
+executive mansion to deliver my present. The President received it
+graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors.
+
+The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution,
+and as the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper
+giving their adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill.
+
+
+The End.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Building a State in Apache Land
+by Charles D. Poston
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