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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/11226-0.txt b/11226-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4c7032 --- /dev/null +++ b/11226-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1977 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11226 *** + +BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND + + * * * * * + +From articles of Charles D. Poston in the _Overland Express_ + + * * * * * + +1894 + + + * * * * * + +I + + +How the Territory Was Acquired + + +In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the +northeast corner of Stockton and Washington, of considerable +architectural pretensions for the period, which was called the +"Government Boarding House." + +The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their +families, a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal, +and several lesser dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there. +In those early days private mansions were few; so the boarding-house +formed the only home of the Argonauts. + +After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in +the spacious parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics. + +It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had +been instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the +acquisition of additional territory; not that there was a pressing +necessity for more land, but for reasons which will be briefly stated: + +1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,[A] the +government of the United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans +from the incursions of Indians within the United States boundary, and as +this proved to be an impractical undertaking, the damages on account of +failure began to assume alarming proportions, and the government of the +United States was naturally anxious to be released from the obligation. + +2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern +States were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of +this element for many years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi +River to the Pacific Ocean, and the additional territory was required +for "a pass". It was not known at that early day that railroads could be +constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher latitude, and it was +feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the extremes of +winter. + +The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction +of such a railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as +the Rio Grande, and it devolved upon the United States to provide the +means of getting on to the Pacific Ocean. The intervening country +belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose of acquiring this +land the treaty was authorized. + +The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa +Ana had usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator +under the name of President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had +been convened since they were herded together at the conclusion of the +Mexican War under protection of American troops. + +The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely +favorable. The treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the +tariff of 1846 business was prosperous, the public debt small, and the +future unclouded. The American Minister to Mexico (General Gadsden of +South Carolina) was authorized to make several propositions:-- + +1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande +west to the Pacific Ocean. + +2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the +Yaqui River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include +the peninsula of Lower California. + +3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass." + +A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the +"railroad pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the +Colorado Rivers south of the Gila River, with the boundary line between +the United States and Mexico about the shape of a dog's hind leg. The +price paid for the new territory, which was temporarily called the +"Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars. + +A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the +Treasury, on the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana; +but not a dollar of it ever reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana +fled with the spoil. The remaining three millions were retained to pay +the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was signed in Mexico on +the 23d day of December, 1853. + +Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting +parties, in the City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew +interesting at the Government Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new +California was hoped for on the southern boundary. Old Spanish history +was ransacked for information from the voyages of Cortez in the Gulf of +California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in great +demand. + +In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San +Francisco with a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor +Iturbide, the Congress of the Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the +family of one million dollars; but on account of successive revolutions +this sum was never at the disposition of the Mexican treasury, and in +liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant of land in +California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could +be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost. +The heirs then made application to the Mexican government for another +grant of land in lieu of the California concession, and were granted +seven hundred leagues of land, to be located in Sonora, Sinaloa and +Lower California, in such parcels as they might select. + +Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a +single body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient +to locate the land in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The +government of Mexico conceded whatever was required, and the grant was +made in all due form of Mexican law. + +In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it +was urged: That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the +Pacific, and its waters full of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower +California was copper-bound, interspersed with gold and minerals, +illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest +breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the +richest of Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials, +with highly productive agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That +the country north of Sonora, called in the Spanish history "Arizunea" +(rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile valleys washed by +numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate was +all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to +an altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the +Southern Pacific Railroad would soon be built through the new country, +and that a new State would be made as a connecting link between Texas +and California, with the usual quota of governors, senators, and public +officials. + +It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure +the best sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest +distributed to settlers as an inducement for rapid colonization. The +enthusiasm increased with the glamour of Spanish history and the +generous flow of Sazerac. + +It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man +idling away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a +month; and in the enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration +of the new territory and to locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have +foreseen that the attempted location of the Iturbide Grant would upset +the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under French +protection? + +The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to +furnish funds for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant. +This was easily accomplished through some enthusiastic French bankers. + +The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure +the approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San +Francisco for Guaymas with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were +not so bad as reckless; not ungovernable, but independent. + +The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are +preserved, show our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of +January, 1854. The Mexican officials were polite, but not cordial. They +said Santa Ana had no right to sell the territory, as he was an usurper +and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. As international +tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice points +of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but +pushed on to the newly acquired territory. + +We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that +the boundary did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger +territory could have been secured as easily, but the American Minister +had only one idea, and that was to secure "a pass" for a Southern +Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The +pass desired was the Guadaloupe Cañon, used as a wagon road by General +Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to +say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass. + +The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence +to us: it belongs to Mexico. + +The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the +United States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison +with all the other countries of the world, it is still nearly as great +an enigma as when first explored in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the +sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive as the valley of the Nile. +The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits in the open. In +fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no winter. + +The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any +that I have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are +not occupied. Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like +a cloud, and settlers could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover, +the Apaches have been a continual source of dread and danger. This state +of affairs is, however, now passing away. + +There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of +towns, missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences +of former Spanish civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There +were evidences of a still more remote and mysterious civilization by an +aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, and can learn but little by +the vestiges they have left upon earth. + +They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities, +built fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has +been found that they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled +vehicles, neither iron, steel, nor copper implements; and yet they built +houses more than five stories high, and cut joists with stone axes. + +How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering +for their irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the +Euphrates, the Ganges, or the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas +grandes) are precisely with the cardinal points. + +Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most +unique edifice in the United States. Just when and how it was built +baffles human curiosity. Whether it was erected for a temple, a palace, +or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The settlement or city +surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten miles, +judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space. +An irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or +settlement, for domestic uses and for irrigation. + +The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time +immemorial, at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming. +Their tribal organization has many features worthy imitation by more +civilized people. The government rests with a hereditary chief and a +council of sages. The rights of property are protected, as far as they +have any individual property, which is small, as they are in fact +communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands is +obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe. + +In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently +asked questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to +answer. For instance, they inquired, "Who made the world and everything +therein?" + +I replied, "God." + +"Where does he live?" + +"In the sky." + +"What does he sit on?" + +In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older +than the Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the +requirements of satisfied nationalities. The old men said the marriage +system had given them more trouble than anything else, and they finally +abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young people were allowed +to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they could +"swap." + +In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected +a stalwart Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the +English language, and gave him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about +the size of a saucer, to stand guard in front of my quarters. + +One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with +their arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I +inquired, "Luis, who is that?" + +"That is my brother-in-law." + +"Did you marry his sister?" + +"No." + +"Did he marry your sister?" + +"No." + +"Then how is he your brother-in-law?" + +"We swapped wives." + +Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation +of large personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal +property, that is, house and household belongings, which he had used +during life, is committed to the flames as a sanitary measure, and +whatever he may have left of personal property is divided among the +tribe. + +The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the +Pimas to pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs +resembling the Jews, especially the periodical seclusion of women. + +The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make +frequent campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a +campaign, if they have shed blood they paint their faces black, and +seclude themselves from the women. If they have not shed blood they +paint their faces white, and enter the joys of matrimony. + +The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and +domestic utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated +cotton and manufactured cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men +understood spinning and weaving, and passed the winter in this +industrial pursuit. + +Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the +wild fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great +quantities of poultry. + +The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished +the California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland +stages, besides their faithful and unwavering friendship. + +The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all +the anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than +has hitherto been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There +are similar edifices in Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples. +These Arizona cliff dwellings are the only edifices of the kind that are +known to have been inhabited by mankind. They exist mostly in the +mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient race, +still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared, +no doubt, as a refuge against enemies. + +At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no +civilized population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo +of Tucson contained probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half +breeds. The Pima Indians on the Gila River numbered from seven to ten +thousand, and were the only producing population. We could not explore +the country north of the Gila River, because of the Apaches, who then +numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have killed +Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest +continuous war on record. + +It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a +country destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to +its junction with the Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort +Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the American flag. The commanding +officer, Major--afterwards General--Heintzelman, issued the regulation +allowance of emigrant rations, which were very grateful to men who had +been living for some time without what are usually called the +necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the +Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing. + +It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the +seaport of the new territory. + +The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles, +and steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post. +By the treaty with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from +the mouth of the Rio Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila +River, thence along the channel of the Gila River to its confluence with +the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a point at the confluence of +the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the Pacific Ocean +six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego." + +As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it +was not presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary +line would include both banks of the Colorado River in the American +boundary, but it does. By a curious turn in the Colorado River, after +passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the opposite bank, the +boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the River to +the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of +California was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary +line of the State, and consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip +of land on the bank of the Colorado opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma +was established, the commanding officer established a military +reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its junction +with the Gila. + +The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty +of 1848, was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of +the Colorado, to indicate the possession of the United States. + +While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot +month of July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of +land opposite Fort Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties, +maps, surveying instruments, and stationery, there was not much +difficulty in making the location. The actual survey showed 936 acres +within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." A +town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization. + +After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to +cross the desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the +journey on mules, with extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as +much rejoiced as the followers of Xenophon to see the sea. + +The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have +been done if both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the +Gila had not been recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the +State of California. The county of San Diego collected taxes there for +many years. After the organization of the Territory of Arizona in 1863, +Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a prison there. +Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the +"Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not +involving the validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still +remains unsettled, as it requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the +State Legislature to change the boundaries of a sovereign State. + +The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there +as long as the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was +completed years ago, and forms the great artery of commerce. Immigration +enterprises of great magnitude have been undertaken with the waters of +the Colorado River. The river washes fully three hundred thousand square +miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the Grand Cañon +only second to Niagara. + +"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far +made is by pumping works, which raise the water from the river and +convey it in pipes to the lands to be watered. While thus far only a +limited area is watered by this method, the results are satisfactory, +and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe systems of +California. + +"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the +project to irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in +the arid West, if in the world. + +"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a +point in the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the +conducting of the waters of this river over an arid waste, that, while +forbidding in appearance, is known to be capable of great fertility. One +interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the desert is found in the +character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the water of +the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit +than any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is +true, in a relative degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By +constant use of these waters the soil not only receives the reviving +benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very considerable amount +of fertilizing material. + +"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically +demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a +vast area, with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one +of the most significant suggestions conceivable in connection with the +new era of irrigation. + +"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far +been one of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in +this section are equal to any section of the arid West, and because of +the stability and certainty of this method, it is only a question of +time when it will be carried into practical force."[B] + +In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian +school, where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in +learning. + +After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San +Francisco, and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not +much) before the "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding +officer of the Pacific, and procured a recommendation to the Secretary +of War for an exploration of the Colorado River. This was subsequently +accomplished with beneficial results,--at least for information. In San +Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for the +purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening +the new Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made _via_ Panama. + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote A: It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a +thousand times, why the Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary +line. The true inwardness of the treaty is attempted to be explained. +The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at the junction of the Gila, +is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney General +Hart.--C.D.P.] + +[Footnote B: Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such +quotations will occur in this series without further credit.--C.D.P.] + + + + + +II + +Early Mining and Filibustering + + +In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the +new Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention. +They had something else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of +Presidents, was very polite, and asked many questions about the new +acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, promised to order an +exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get an +appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they +could be spared. + +During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the +town was crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had +an extra bed put in my room at the National, and we messed together. It +was an advantage to have an officer of the Army who had been in command +at Yuma to give information about the country, and the association thus +formed lasted through life. + +There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York, +the seat of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been +organized under a munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The +capital stock was a hundred million dollars. The scheme was to build a +railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean on the proceeds +of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions of dollars stock +as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses and +promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker, +Secretary of the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas +Butler King, of Georgia, late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my +recent superior; Secretary, Samuel Jaudon, late Cashier of the United +States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the Company, received me at +dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance with Thomas +Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages. + +This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J. +Walker was to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the +secretary, was to display his financial ability in New York and the +Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of Cincinnati, was agent for the +Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the State of Texas, +and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio Grande +and the Colorado. + +I told them all I knew about the Territory,--and a great deal more,--and +enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company +by an exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral +resources. They inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration. +I replied that I would start with a hundred thousand dollars if there +was a million behind it. + +A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and +shares sold at an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was +appointed president, and I was appointed "manager and commandant." The +office was located in Cincinnati, for the convenience of General +Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. William +Wrightson was appointed secretary. + +As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this +arduous undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San +Antonio, Texas, and I proceeded there to complete the outfit. + +San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time. +Wagons, ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men +could be found in Texas willing to go anywhere. + +At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me +to go to New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners, +and as he was going to Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels, +and received the benefit of his introduction. There were plenty of +educated German miners about New Bramfels, working on farms and selling +lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company was made +up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil. + +We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and +took the road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762 +miles by the itinerary. The plains of Texas were covered with verdure +and flowers, and the mocking birds made the night march a serenade. + +I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military +officers of the frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first +military post on the road was Fort Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful +location. The post was at that time under the command of the famous John +Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California. + +Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks; +and as he was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept +an invitation to dinner. + +After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers, +but Magruder said:-- + +"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest." + +I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the +regulations of the Army." + +"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay +here three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an +escort with you to overtake it." + +So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a +prisoner of war more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with +abundant provisions, if they only had French cooks. + +After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we +arrived on the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth +of July. El Paso at this time was enjoying an era of commercial +prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. Silver flowed in in a stream. + +After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio +Grande at Fort Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping +the command on the green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with +Doctor Steck and his interpreter made a visit to the Apaches in their +stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre. + +There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which +afforded shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in +camp,--physically, fine looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day +was long. The agent distributed two wagon loads of corn, from which they +made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink. + +Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico +and selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved +themselves expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of +the trees, as they are economists in ammunition if nothing else. + +Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the +old triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches +that I was "a mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock +nor kill any of my men. + +The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would +not molest us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico." + +On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it. + +I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely +among the chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many +years afterwards an Apache girl told me they could have killed me often +from ambush, but they remembered the treaty and would not do it. I have +generally found the Indians willing to keep faith with the whites, if +the whites will keep faith with them. + +After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua +Mountains, and camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon, +which empties into the Gila River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the +rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and about a hundred came thundering +down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted and well armed. +Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and +many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the +spoil of Mexican foray. + +A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got +out, and everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking +man named Alessandro, and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a +parley was called when they reached the rope. + +When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and +trade; that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we +were not traders, and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at +this, and made some demonstrations against the rope. I told the +interpreter to say that I would shoot the first man that crossed the +rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they thought better of +it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck off +for their homes in the north. + +I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered +very brave; but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in +coming forward, and I cried out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you +come out?" + +He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out +with a rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German +pipe in his mouth. + +The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high +mountains and wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and +camped at the old Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac. + +Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac +means water) is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This +is the most ancient pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish +history in the narrative of Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition +of Coronado in search of gold stopped here awhile, and washed some gold +from the sands of the Cañon del Oro on sheep skins. It is well known +that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this experience, +remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,--Jason in +Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever +since, without profound knowledge of its origin. + +The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last +of August the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated. + +As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to +graze in charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two +weeks' furlough was given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their +sins, and get acquainted with the Mexican señoritas, who flocked there +in great numbers from the adjoining State of Sonora. + +Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few +interruptions by violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused +by a quarrel among some Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver. +There were not more than a dozen Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when +we arrived, and they were not Methodist preachers. The town has grown +with the country, and now contains a population of nearly ten thousand +people, of many shades of color and many nationalities. + +The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for +the company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense, +and fortunately without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the +scene of our future operations, and the exploration and settlement of a +territory of considerably over a hundred thousand square miles was +before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It would not be +prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had +hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place +for storage and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a +headquarters. We had some hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons, +ambulances, arms, provisions, merchandise, mining, material,--and +moreover, what we considered of inestimable value, the future,--in our +keeping, and a proper location was a grave consideration. + +The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita +Mountains on the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as +the Arno, flowing from the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which +had been formerly occupied and cultivated. The presidio was called +Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just evacuated the presidio +of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of preservation, minus +the doors and windows, which they hauled away. + +The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church +of San Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino +real) to Sonora and Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission +San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out for the presidio of Tubac to +establish our headquarters and future home. + +There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins +of Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters, +repaired the corrals, and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as +possible. + +The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched +men to the adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws, +and soon had lumber for doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and +the primitive furniture necessary for housekeeping. The quarters could +accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals were ample for the +animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on the +north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The +beautiful Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel +and grass were abundant in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was +not more than a hundred leagues to Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of +California, where European merchandise could be obtained. There were no +frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder commerce. + +In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at +Tubac comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and +were ready to begin the exploration of the country for mines. When you +look at the Santa Rita Mountains from Tubac, it seems a formidable +undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. Nevertheless, we +began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and +enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously +worked by the Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of +arrastres and smelters. Gold could be washed on the mountain sides, and +silver veins could be traced by the discolored grass. + +As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived +in Tubac, Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great +numbers to work, and skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen +to twenty-five dollars a month and rations. Sonora furnished flour, +beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at moderate prices. + +A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of +seeking employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said +they would work for $10 a day and board; that they got that in +California, and would never work for less. After staying a few days at +the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, showing their +gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at +Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a +chance." They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white +trash. + +Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac +had little holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate +their farms, in many cases accompanied by their families. + +By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a +thousand souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in +the vicinity of Tubac. We had no law but love, and no occupation but +labor. No government, no taxes, no public debt, no politics. It was a +community in a perfect state of nature. As "syndic" under New Mexico, I +opened a book of records, performed the marriage ceremony, baptized +children, and granted divorces. + +Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its +señoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male +population from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the +equilibrium of population, till in some pueblos the disproportion was as +great as a dozen females to one male; and in the genial climate of +Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. Consequently +the señoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the Santa +Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling +provisions they came in state,--others came on the hurricane deck of +burros, and many came on foot. All were provided for. + +The Mexican señoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier +population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them +were good Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and +the American women "Las Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a +Mexican woman despises it is a red petticoat. They are exceedingly +dainty in their underclothing,--wear the finest linen they can afford; +and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men of northern +Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect. + +This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of +frontier society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless +appendages in camp. They could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash +clothes, sew, dance, and sing,--moreover, they were expert at cards, and +divested many a miner of his week's wages over a game of monte. + +As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally +authorized to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant +divorces, execute criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions +of the ancient El Cadi. The records of this primitive period are on file +in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo of Tucson, Pima County. + +Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as +the priest there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of +Tubac tied the knot gratis, and gave them a treat besides. + +I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or +two, and had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according +to gender, and began to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent +down Father Mashboef, (Vicar Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after +the spiritual condition of the Arizona people. + +It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix +up a confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at +breakfast; but worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me +with such affection, went away with their reybosas over their heads +without even a friendly salutation. + +It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban +of the Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by +the arm, (a man always takes you by the arm when he has anything +unpleasant to say,) and said:-- + +"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these +people; but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes +of God." + +I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be +lifted. The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and +swearing, and said they thought they were entitled to all the rights of +matrimony. + +My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and +had given them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a +Mexican dollar; and had given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still, +although the Pope of Rome was beyond the jurisdiction of even the +Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a restoration of +happiness. + +At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the +Church to the marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas +with holy water, and it cost the company about $700 to rectify the +matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz. + +An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never +be lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the +opening of mines which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land +which lay fallow, the employment of labor which was idle, and the +development of a new country were meritorious undertakings. + +The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market +afforded, besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks, +and other game, and we obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of +French wines for Sunday dinners and the celebration of feast days. + +It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases +commerce. We had scarcely commenced to make silver bars--"current with +the merchant"--when the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of +primitive commerce. Pack trains arrived from Mexico, loaded with all +kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase everything they brought, +whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take in exchange +silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American +merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our +business. We were essentially free traders. + +The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost +enough to purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any +country of the world, so near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in +by mountains teeming with minerals. The natural elements of prosperity +seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our primitive simplicity +we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and reduce +them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the +productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the +country independent of foreign resources. The result will show the +success or failure of this Utopian scheme. + +The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of +distributing supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong +coffee the first thing in the morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at +noon, and supper at sunset. + +Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from +the mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the +afternoon. One Sunday we had a fat wild turkey weighing about +twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers asked permission to assist +in the _cocina_. It was done to a charm, and stuffed with pine nuts, +which gave it a fine flavor. + +As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of +San Jose de Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River, +afforded exercise and diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday +afternoon. The old mission was rapidly going to ruin, but the records +showed that it formerly supported a population of 3,500 people, from +cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, and working +the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently +again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the +gardens of the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in +a perfect state of preservation. + +The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country +of oases and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the +governing machine as the sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in +Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In countries requiring irrigation +the communal system of distributing water has been found to produce the +greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government granting +water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against +nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question +will soon come up whether the government has any more right to sell the +water than the air. + +In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared +at Tubac, and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the +industry of a German gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon +produced all vegetables, melons, etc., that we required, and many a +weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the hospitalities of +Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had more +than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for +entertainment, horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road. +Hospitality is a savage virtue, and disappears with civilization. + +As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory +yield, we turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River, +and soon struck a vein of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded +from the grass roots seven thousand dollars a ton. This mine was named +in honor of the president of the company, "Heintzelman," which in German +mining lore is also the name of the genius who presides over mines. + +The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was +shipped, via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132 +cents per ounce for the Asiatic market. + +Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required +some more convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of +"boletas." Engravings were made in New York, and paper money printed on +pasteboard about two inches by three in small denominations, twelve and +one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty cents, one dollar, five +dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the illiterate +could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig; +twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse; +five dollars, a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the +hands were paid off every Saturday, and they were currency at the +stores, and among the merchants of the country and in Mexico. When a run +of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could have them redeemed in +silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive system of +greenbacks worked very well,--everybody holding boletas was interested +in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on +the prosperity of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the +bank of Nature, and industry puts the money in circulation, to the +benefit of mankind. + +In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons +arrived in the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a +military post, and for the protection of the infant settlements. The +officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, and Captain Ewell. The first +military post was established at Calaveras, and the arrival of the +officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz. + +Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a +citizens' train of wagons laden with supplies,--twelve wagons of twelve +mules each,--belonging to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was +encamped at Tubac I inquired the price of freight, and learned it was +fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I inquired what he would charge +to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul them from the +Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half +cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,--a ton +to the wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long +haul." + +Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to +different cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its +first reputation as a producer of minerals. The average yield in silver +was not enormous, as the ores contained a great deal of copper, but the +silver yield was about fifteen hundred dollars to the ton. + +In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La +Aribac," or Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a +beautiful valley encompassed by mountains, and containing only a few +leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802, +and title obtained from the Spanish government. The ownership and +occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who +obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and +maintained continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the +company for a valuable consideration. + +The validity of the title has been denied by the United States, +notwithstanding the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before +the United States Land Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the +United States Supreme Court, with a fair prospect of the ultimate loss +of the property. The company conveyed the property with all mines and +claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,--a woful +heritage. + +In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz +valley. The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive +methods of reduction. The farmers were planting with every prospect of a +good crop. Emigrants were coming into the country and taking up farms. +Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty Dollar or its +representative. + +The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war, +going on in Sonora between two factions for the control of the State +government. Gaudara was the actual governor, and had been so for many +years, during which time he had accumulated a handsome fortune in lands, +mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He was a sedate and +dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite and +hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without +property or position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods. +Consequently a revolution was commenced to obtain control of the +governorship of the State; and just the same as when King David sought +refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who were +refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined +Pesquiera to rob Guadara. This is all there was,--or ever is, to Mexican +revolutions. + +On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora +to California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila +descent, married to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with +a large family of girls and boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican +Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets, where +there was the usual sign,-- + + SE COMPRA ORO + Up Stairs + +The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty +and graces of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and +married well. + +As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have +caused many eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should +not take part in the little revolution going on in their native State +(Sonora). Their husbands could then become eminent men, annex the State +of Sonora to the United States, and become governors and senators. It +was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, and their +husbands were eminently deserving,--in fact, their husbands were already +the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had +been a prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others +had occupied high position in Federal and State service, and were highly +respected among their fellow citizens. In this state of affairs the +eldest brother,--Augustine, was despatched to Sonora to see what +arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the Americans would come +from California and help him oust Gaudara. + +Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was +necessary; the substance of which was that the Americans should come +with five hundred men, well armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and +establishing himself as governor of Sonora. After that the Americans +could name whatever they wanted in money or political offices, even to +the annexation of the State, which was at that time semi-independent of +Mexico. + +Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +returned to California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans +immediately began to drum up for recruits; but the prosperity of +California was so great that but a few could be persuaded to leave a +certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California actually +started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of +recruits by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show +that they crossed the river with only forty-two men and a boy. + +With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one +hundred and thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line +of Mexico at the Sonoita (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream +of water struggling for existence in the sands. At the Sonoita the +invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, forwarded through +Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State of +Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and +they paid no attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of +Mexico with arms and in hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of +Altar they diverged from the main road to the west, and took the road to +Caborca. + +The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have +expected reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to +a little port called Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as +it may, no reinforcements ever came: and this little handful of +Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the little town of Caborca +without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of the +States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in +California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in +such position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and +families in California, and all of them had warm friends there. + +Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent +language of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to +exterminate the invaders and to preserve their homes. The roads fairly +swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns carried lances, those who +had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by Mexicans, and +the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on +the east side of the plaza. + +This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into +the church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and +surrendered. My God! had they lost their senses? These forty-two +American gentlemen, who had left their wives, children, and friends in +California a month or two before under a contract with Pesquiera were +butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man +raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter. + +They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could +have turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old +friends and acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom +over the country. + +There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I +know it to be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were +read, Gabilonda, second in command, swore he would have nothing to do +with it, and mounting his horse swung the little boy Evans behind him +and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to Guaymas, from where +he was afterwards sent to California. + +It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the +hogs to eat, but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug +and gave them Christian interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of +the leaders, but a detachment came up the Gila River to Tucson and +Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise twenty-five or thirty +men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on the Santa +Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I +remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in +Mexican revolutions. He said,-- + +"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross +the Mexican line." + +I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly +demoralized, wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into +a hospital for their relief, with such accommodations as could be +afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of the adage that "dead men tell no +tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in triumph to +Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of +the days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera +with the Mexican government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb +Expedition, one of the most ill-fated and melancholy of any in the +bloody annals of Mexico. + +The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the +Mexican government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the +line, and business of all kinds was paralyzed. + +Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los +Angeles, with only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a +rest. + + + + + +III + + +War-Time in Arizona + + +The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from +California, generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of +death to fall on the boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had +been massacred at Caborca, and many Mexicans had been killed. The +abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe over the Mexican +boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the United +States. + +Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the +massacre, came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although +he was perfectly innocent of any crime,--on the contrary, deserved +credit for his humanity in rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was +subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial organized by Pesquiera, +the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green old age as +Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and +respected. + +When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857, +the country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines +were put in operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico. +Christmas week the usual festival was given at Arivaca, and all the +neighbors within a hundred miles invited. + +In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and +the sad events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as +possible. The government had subsidized an overland mail service at +nearly a million a year, called the Butterfield line, with daily mails +from St. Louis to San Francisco, running through Arizona. The mail +service of the West has done a great deal to build up the country; and +population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its +future prosperity. + +General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the +mines. Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president +of the company, as he had contributed about two hundred and fifty +thousand dollars in money and arms to its resources, with the intention +of enlisting as much capital as might be required from New England. +Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled overland +from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,--1350 miles. + +The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the +contrary, passed within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into +Mexico on their forays rather than break their treaty with the +Americans. They could have easily carried off our stock by killing the +few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from doing so +from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law +among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot. + +In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox, +established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one +hundred and fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the +company bought all they could saw. They built a house and corral on the +south side of the Santa Cruz River, on the road from Tucson to Tubac, +called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very convenient stopping +place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty Mexicans +rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches, +and were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the +Babaquivera plain, intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the +Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut +off), and rescue the animals, offering to divide them with us for our +assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, and how +faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa, +where the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which +they accepted, as they were new in the country and needed horses and +mules. The lumbermen joined the Mexicans, and as they could easily +discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of dust, succeeded in +forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached the +river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind. + +The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with +the lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their +adventure the lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp +at the Canoa on the Santa Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and +whisky. + +About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual +quiet Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously +into the plaza, crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he +had recovered sufficiently to talk, we learned that the Apaches had made +an attack on Canoa, and killed all the settlers. + +It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we +could only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start +until early next morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos +Apaches." + +When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as +if it had been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were +smashed, and the house a smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying +around dead, and three of them had been thrown into the well, head +foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the burnt houses. + +As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been +fully eighty Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280 +head of animals from the Canoa and the adjoining ranches. + +There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort +Buchanan. The commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in +pursuit, but the Apaches were in their strongholds long before the +dragoons saddled their horses. + +The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very +skillful in forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open +field. Their horsemanship is far superior to American troops, who are +for the most part foreigners, and exceedingly awkward. + +The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far +more foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous. + +In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to +the presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and +a fire. Whether he had been run out of California by the Vigilance +Committee, as many of our "guests" had been, or was escaping legitimate +justice, was not in question; the imperative cravings of the stomach +admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to dinner, and +provided him with all the comforts of home. + +At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the +fire; to which I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar +the door between us. + +The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised +him to push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably +get some employment. + +He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary +partnership with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the +country at that time. + +She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent, +as he had a red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably +formed the only matrimonial tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman. +In the course of time John Ward got a hay contract, a wagon, and a few +yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle Sam's expense. Fort +Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of dragoons. +The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a +step-ladder. + +In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son +Micky Free until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that +he could not find his oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to +Major Stein, the commanding officer, that the Apaches had stolen his +oxen and carried off the woman's boy. + +Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill +in Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe, +and ordered out a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant +Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches and recover Micky Free and the oxen. +Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a Kentuckian, a West Pointer, +and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a fool; although his +uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very eminent +clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family +from Bascomb of the Confederate X roads. + +Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding +in Sonora, into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The +Apaches were summoned to camp _under a white flag_; and feeling +perfectly innocent of having committed a crime against the Americans, +fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant Bascomb and his boys +in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen the oxen; +and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant +was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed. + +Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect +Wood) managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his +bonds, and escape. He was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked +a terrible vengeance for the treachery of American troops to the +Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in the Chiricahua Mountains, +1874. + +The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years, +and has scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men, +women, and children, killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment +to the settlement of Arizona cannot be computed. The cost of the war +against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a string of yokes of oxen +reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his woman's son, +Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and +about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that +profession. I am on very friendly terms with him and all his family, and +would not write a word in derogation of his character, or of his +step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate history. + +The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of +unsavory immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas +and Arkansas, rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days. +Gambling has been an industrial pursuit since the first settlement of +the country, and the saloon business flourishes with the prosperity of +the times. Strange to say, amidst this heterogeneous population there +has never been a vigilance committee. + +The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve, +with occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of +1861, when the reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in +the Arizona mountains. A newspaper had been started by the company at +Tubac, called _The Arizonian_. Our mail came overland by Butterfield +coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but at last we waited for +"the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was started +out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of +the West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the +line and withdraw the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in +Stein's Pass, killed all of the men, and captured the gold. + +In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the +mines were yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were +working for good wages, which were paid punctually every Saturday +afternoon. + +One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and +handed me a note from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order +from the commanding officer of the Military Department:-- + + Santa Fe, June, 1861, + Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:-- + + On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy + your Post; burn your Commissary and Quartermasters' + stores, and everything between the Colorado + and Rio Grande that will feed an army. + + March out with your guns loaded, and do not + permit any citizen within fifteen miles of your lines. + + (Signed) Major General Lynde + +A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid +before them. The wisest said we could not hold the country after the +troops abandoned it,--that the Apaches would come down upon us by the +hundred, and the Mexicans would cut our throats. It was concluded to +reduce the ore we had mined, which was yielding about a thousand dollars +a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the worst. + +About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried +off out of the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules. + +The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the +skill of many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of +adobe, with a gate or bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice +for the Apaches to saw an entrance through an adobe wall with their +horsehair ropes (cabrestas). + +The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus +poles (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches +tried their rope saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up, +and a log chain wound around each bar and locked to the post; but they +removed the bars quietly by wrapping their scrapes around the chain, to +prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The steam engine was running +day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the rounds of the place +every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful and +secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their +presence on the place was observed,--not even by the watchdogs, which +generally have a keen scent for Indians. + +At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the +entire herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were +sleeping under a porch within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as +soon as possible; but the pursuers soon ran into an ambuscade prepared +by the retreating Apaches, when three were killed and two wounded. The +rest returned without recovering any of the stock. + +This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not +be replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or +provisions; only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be +kept in stables and fed on grain. + +About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining +Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be +abandoned. + +At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel +furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand +dollars worth of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The +Apaches, to the number of nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and +compelled its evacuation. The plunder and destruction of property was +complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and nothing to sleep on +but the ground. + +The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where +the few people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they +remained there in a miserable condition until the troops arrived from +California under General James A. Carlton, United States Army, commonly +called "Carlton's Column." + +General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order +declaring martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These +troops garrisoned the country between the rivers, and drove out the +rebel troops, who had come in from Texas under the Confederate +government. + +After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed +Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring +that the American government was broken up, and they had come to take +their country back again. Even the few Americans left in the country +were not at peace among themselves,--the chances were that if you met in +the road it was to draw arms, and declare whether you were for the North +or the South. + +The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they +were asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico. +The smoke of burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa +Cruz valley, where the troops were in retreat, destroying everything +before and behind them. The government of the United States abandoned +the first settlers of Arizona to the merciless Apaches. It was +impossible to remain in the country and continue the business without +animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to pack +our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike +out across the deserts for California. + +With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and +some friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the +fourth of July, where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another +journey took us across the Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we +went by steamer to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to New York. + +It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in +ruins, but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this +time in machinery, materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc., +amounted to considerably over a million dollars, but the greatest blow +was the destruction of our hopes,--not so much of making money as of +making a country. Of all the lonesome sounds that I remember (and it +seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the crowing of cocks on the +deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that they were +abandoned. + +We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it +was supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of +the journey by day and standing guard all night was trying on the +strongest constitution in the hot summer month of June. + +An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the +deserts to California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book, +"Across America and Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the +harrowing scenes preceding the abandonment of the country are only +briefly stated. + +The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the +change of venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to +my credit from the silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88 +Wall Street, and I put it up as margin on gold at $132 and sold for +$250. + +After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found +my old friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically +called "The Defenses of Washington." The capital of the nation was +beleaguered! + +The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years. + +The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and +Lower California, under direction of Captain--afterwards General--Stone, +an officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had +first become acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia +Barracks, in California, and met him the last time when he was chief of +staff to the Khedive of Egypt at Grand Cairo, on the Nile. + +Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence +of Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by +force of arms. + +The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been +furnished by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them +through their correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had +been contributed by the entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon, +as the French were desirous of getting a foothold in Mexico. The +expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party was considered an +affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken under a +valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were +not satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in +the enterprise. The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land +location finally caused the intervention of the French government. + +It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation +of Vera Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish +soon withdrew, and left the French to pull their own chestnut out of +the fire. + +The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we +were in the midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity +to set up Maximilian of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by +French forces under Bazaine. + +No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized +with the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them +substantial aid if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to +New York as a warning,--and the French had had enough of Russians on +their track. + +It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the +Maximilian Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the +survey and location of the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and +recognized as a public debt of the Empire, and such will be found a +matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no doubt, keep them as +companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The Grant +has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs, +in equity, the original million dollars. + +The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American +boundary line, and many Mexicans took refuge in the United +States,--among them Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora. His camp was at +the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa Cruz Valley and his wife is +buried there. + +President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during +the reign of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled +to furnish him with a hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession +of Lower California. The circumstances were recently related for the +Examiner of San Francisco, by Señor Romero, the Mexican minister in +Washington. + +During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many +Americans flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with +the government of the Confederate States, and consequently with the +occupation of Mexico. + +The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the +Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora, +but I never believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted +a title of nobility. + +The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as +well as the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire +and the French Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire +of the People grows stronger every year. + + + + + +IV + +Arizona a Territory at Last + + +When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me +on a call at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona. + +President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally +said, "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that." + +I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the +Committee on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona. + +The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,--it +is just like hell--all it lacks is water and good society." + +He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss +the subject. + +Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the +House, and readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial +government. In a few days President Lincoln appointed an evening, to +hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona from 8 to 12. The chairmen of +the committees on Territories attended, and General Heintzelman and some +other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical data, some +specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and +some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona was agreed upon. + +The country was at that time under martial law,--General Carlton. If any +system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law. +Whatever may be the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts, +they form the only means civilized society has yet devised for the +settlement of disputes. It is true that a territorial form of government +was never contemplated by the framers of the Constitution, as no +provision was made for such a form of government; but this omission is +covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power to +"provide for the general welfare." + +The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An +Act to provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of +time, no doubt, all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the +territorial form of government is not provided for as a permanency by +the Constitution, and is moreover anomalous in the American system. The +people residing in the Territories are to a considerable extent +disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged American +citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to +their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will +be forced by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights +of sovereign States. + +The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a +bill dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and +eleventh degree of longitude west; and providing for the organization of +"The Territory of Arizona" from the western half. The bill soon became +an Act of Congress, and was approved by President Lincoln on the +twenty-third of February, 1863. + +The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an +oyster supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I +fortified myself with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is +to become of me?" + +They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said: + +"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with +them." + +So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the +office was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth +about thirty-three cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona. + +Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues +across the plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach +at Kansas City, and crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by +river steamer to San Francisco. The Indian goods had been shipped to +Yuma. + +In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just +returned from Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at +my expense. He afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings +in the Apache Country," published by Harpers. + +Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky, +called upon me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of +priests down to Arizona, to restore the service among the Indians at +the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac on the Santa Cruz, to which I +assented with great pleasure. + +After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my +orders from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm +Barracks for an escort of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and +prepared for the journey across the Colorado Desert. + +We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week +regaled the Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their +first presents from Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at +Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila River some two hundred miles to the +Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima Indians, gave a warm +welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods. + +At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate +the mass, and tell the Indians something about God,--remembering my own +failure in teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians +assembled, and Father Bosco through my interpreter preached the first +sermon the Pima Indians ever heard. + +At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you +make me preach to these savages?--they squat on the ground, and laugh +at me like monkeys." + +The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission +of San Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos, +a christianized branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were +my old friends and acquaintances, and received the priests with +fireworks and illuminations. They knew of our coming, and had swept the +church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar with mistletoe. + +The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,---- + + For the Jesuits told them long ago + As sure as the water continued to flow, + The sun to shine, and the grass to grow, + They would come again to the Papago. + +I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over +the goods intended for the Papagos for distribution at their +convenience. + +I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had +lived there all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing +his clothes. As nails were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill +held together by rawhides, and was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In +the meantime he had taken up with a Papago girl, to the scandal of the +tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or leave. He +appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my +sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the +mill. + +In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona, +mostly from the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on +the Hassayamp. Old Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a +trapper and pioneer since 1836. His name is carved on the walls of the +Casa Grande with that date. + +The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be +established on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the +settlers in peace when they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat +cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried +off nearly all the stock. + +King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man +among the settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a +company to go after the Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means +"fool.") + +There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly +Maricopas. They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted +principally of panole and jerkey. + +They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way +between Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The +tanks there are surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the +country in the vicinity is covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had +vomited the refuse of the subterranean world to disfigure nature. + +The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant. +Delshay, the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky. +The Americans had neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he +was quite put out about it, but partook of panole and jerked beef. + +The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made +demands which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five +Indians at the council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As +the Indians became more hostile the situation became more serious, and +it was evident to the Americans that they were surrounded, and in +imminent danger of massacre. + +Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at +once that either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so +he said: "Boys, we have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick +out your Indian, and I will shoot the chief for a signal." + +The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded. +The only American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my +Indian agent at the Pima villages. + +Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the +Indian in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and +transfixed him. They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of +death. + +The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack +mule, carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with +Christian services at the foot of an aspen tree. + +The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps. + +After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into +the Pima villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me, +took down the account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans +engaged in the expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his +stenography, he asked one of the men if he had any Indian relics. The +man replied, "Yes, I have got some jerked years," and he presented +Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on buckskin. + +I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among +the Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a +company of Pimas and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received +arms and ammunition from the government, and I had uniforms and swords +enough for the officers. They soon learned to drill, and already knew +how to shoot. + +The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set +out all the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when +we turned east by Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail. + +The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Cañon has never +been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the +junction of the Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches. + +The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,--twenty-four Americans and +twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as +the number of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation. + +There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on +the Salt River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with +the Gila. We camped at the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed +Salt River at the peak about Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima +villages, glad enough to get to that haven of rest. It was 100 miles to +Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any provisions +between the two places. + +There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time, +except for people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the +golden harps of New Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the +government of the United States, in school books; and perhaps had +enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July oration in youth; but +these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no government of any +consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the Democratic +principle, not for protection but for revenue only. + +I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods +without regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody +that came along in need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I +wound up the Indian service with loss of about $5,000 out of my own +pocket. + +At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens +of gold quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently +called Vulture, and wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't +want to buy your mine, but I will give you twenty-five dollars' worth +of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will go away and leave me alone." + +I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King +of Spain for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish +grants in Texas, California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest, +even if the grant had been made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by +the Continental Congress. + +The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I +know of are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at +Florence. + +The government of the United States can never recompense the people of +Arizona for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to +make the plea that a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not +have conquered this tribe of savages, if the will to do so had existed. +Now, after forty years of devastation, the government pays the Apaches +one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in goods to maintain a +quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an Apache +outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the +war-path, which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A +Century of Dishonor" was a well written book, and contains many +unpleasant truths. + +In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues +in the territorial government had crossed the plains, and established +the capital at a remote place in the northern mountains, which they +called "Prescott," in honor of the Mexican historian. Just as was +supposed, they quarreled all the way across the plains about who should +be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had never seen. + +Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that +I had already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes +of the people. The political machine had not then been organized, and +the people had some say in the elections. + +The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate +to Congress from Arizona. + +The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is +evidenced by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State +or Territory in the Union, _per capita_. The Capital was moved from town +to town, as a political factor in the election of delegates, but now +rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River Valley, where it will permanently +remain, as no other place in the Territory can ever rival Phoenix in the +abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and happiness of life. +The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water storage in +reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile. + +At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now +stands, and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It +had been occupied some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated +the land by irrigation, and built houses and cities which have gone to +ruin. The most diligent search has developed but few evidences of the +extent of their civilization. They had not advanced very far, as they +left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The land in cultivation +would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred thousand +souls. + +It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western +country, to desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in +Congress. + +It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via +Panama to New York and Washington. + +I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman +(Roscoe Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very +pompous way: + +"I observe you have drawn a front seat,--and as I presume you do not +wish to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the +courtesy to exchange seats with me." + +I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more +becoming to my station. + +In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my +seat, and said, "Poston, how is this?--your mileage is $7,200, and mine +is only $300." + +I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?" + +He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon." + +"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona--that +equalizes the mileage." + +He certified the account, and never said another word. + +The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made +$12,200;--but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and +presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the +Territory for which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe +hardships endured, and money was not spared to bring it to public notice +on every suitable occasion. + +The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they +are considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having +any vote nor in any other way being recognized as equals. They were not +obliged at that time to serve on committees, nor expected to answer the +roll-call. It was an easy berth for an indolent man without ambition or +avarice. + +The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The +Civil War had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the +surface, and their acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look +over their photographs, now it is like shuffling an old pack of cards +which have been played out,--they have nearly all gone to the Upper +Chamber,--in this world or the next. Grow and Holman are the only ones +in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the House, and +treated me with the most distinguished consideration,--even to the +compliment of dining at my house,--which was unprecedented in his long +public career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my +wife was a Baptist. + +I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An +appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for +the construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona +to become self-supporting. This was the first instance in which +irrigation was brought to the notice of the government. + +President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my +family lived in the neighborhood where the President had been reared, +my little girl made him a satchel of corn shucks from the field where he +had hoed corn barefooted in the briars, thinking he might appreciate a +souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I escorted my daughter to the +executive mansion to deliver my present. The President received it +graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors. + +The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution, +and as the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper +giving their adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill. + + +The End. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Building a State in Apache Land +by Charles D. Poston + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11226 *** diff --git a/11226-h/11226-h.htm b/11226-h/11226-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce9811c --- /dev/null +++ b/11226-h/11226-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,1865 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta name="generator" + content="HTML Tidy for Linux/x86 (vers 1st November 2002), see www.w3.org" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> + + <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Building A State In Apache Land, From articles + of Charles D. Poston in the</title> + + <style type="text/css"> + /*<![CDATA[*/ + <!-- + * { font-family: Times;} + P { text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + font-size: 14pt; + margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; } + HR { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em;} + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%;} + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .note {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 14pt;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; right: 100%; font-size: 8pt; justify: right;} /* page numbers */ + .center {text-align: center;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .poem + {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem p.i2 {margin-left: 1em;} + .poem p.i4 {margin-left: 2em;} + .poem p.i6 {margin-left: 3em;} + .poem p.i8 {margin-left: 4em;} + .poem p.i10 {margin-left: 5em;} + .poem p.i14 {margin-left: 5em;} + .poem p.i16 {margin-left: 5em;} + .poem p.i18 {margin-left: 5em;} + + blockquote {margin-left: 4em; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;} + // --> + /*]]>*/ + </style> + </head> + + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11226 ***</div> + + <i>Overland Express</i>. <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + <h1>Building a State in Apache Land</h1> + + <h2>From articles of Charles D. Poston in the <i>Overland Express</i></h2> + <br /> + <br /> + + <p class="center">1894</p> + <hr /> + <br /> + <br /> + <!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> + + + <p class="center"><a href="#I"><b>Section I</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#II"><b>Section II</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#III"><b>Section III</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#IV"><b>Section IV</b></a></p> + <!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="I" name="I"></a> + + <h2>I</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>How the Territory Was Acquired</h3> + + <p>In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the northeast corner + of Stockton and Washington, of considerable architectural pretensions for the period, + which was called the "Government Boarding House."</p> + + <p>The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their families, + a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal, and several lesser + dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there. In those early days private + mansions were few; so the boarding-house formed the only home of the Argonauts.</p> + + <p>After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in the spacious + parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics.</p> + + <p>It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had been + instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the acquisition of additional + territory; not that there was a pressing necessity for more land, but for reasons + which will be briefly stated:</p> + + <p>1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,<a id="FNanchorA" + name="FNanchorA"></a><a href="#Footnote_A"><sup>[A]</sup></a> the government of the + United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans from the incursions of Indians + within the United States boundary, and as this proved to be an impractical + undertaking, the damages on account of failure began to assume alarming proportions, + and the government of the United States was naturally anxious to be released from the + obligation.</p> + + <p>2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern States + were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of this element for many + years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, and + the additional territory was required for "a pass". It was not known at that early + day that railroads could be constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher + latitude, and it was feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the + extremes of winter.</p> + + <p>The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction of such a + railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as the Rio Grande, and it + devolved upon the United States to provide the means of getting on to the Pacific + Ocean. The intervening country belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose + of acquiring this land the treaty was authorized.</p> + + <p>The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa Ana had + usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator under the name of + President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had been convened since they were + herded together at the conclusion of the Mexican War under protection of American + troops.</p> + + <p>The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely favorable. The + treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the tariff of 1846 business was + prosperous, the public debt small, and the future unclouded. The American Minister to + Mexico (General Gadsden of South Carolina) was authorized to make several + propositions:—</p> + + <p>1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande west to + the Pacific Ocean.</p> + + <p>2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the Yaqui + River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include the peninsula of + Lower California.</p> + + <p>3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass."</p> + + <p>A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the "railroad + pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the Colorado Rivers south of + the Gila River, with the boundary line between the United States and Mexico about the + shape of a dog's hind leg. The price paid for the new territory, which was + temporarily called the "Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars.</p> + + <p>A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the Treasury, on + the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana; but not a dollar of it ever + reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana fled with the spoil. The remaining three + millions were retained to pay the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was + signed in Mexico on the 23d day of December, 1853.</p> + + <p>Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting parties, in the + City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew interesting at the Government + Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new California was hoped for on the southern + boundary. Old Spanish history was ransacked for information from the voyages of + Cortez in the Gulf of California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in + great demand.</p> + + <p>In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San Francisco with + a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor Iturbide, the Congress of the + Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the family of one million dollars; but on + account of successive revolutions this sum was never at the disposition of the + Mexican treasury, and in liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant + of land in California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could + be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost. The heirs then + made application to the Mexican government for another grant of land in lieu of the + California concession, and were granted seven hundred leagues of land, to be located + in Sonora, Sinaloa and Lower California, in such parcels as they might select.</p> + + <p>Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a single + body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient to locate the land + in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The government of Mexico conceded + whatever was required, and the grant was made in all due form of Mexican law.</p> + + <p>In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it was urged: + That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the Pacific, and its waters full + of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower California was copper-bound, interspersed with + gold and minerals, illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest + breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the richest of + Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials, with highly productive + agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That the country north of Sonora, called + in the Spanish history "Arizunea" (rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile + valleys washed by numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate + was all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to an + altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the Southern Pacific + Railroad would soon be built through the new country, and that a new State would be + made as a connecting link between Texas and California, with the usual quota of + governors, senators, and public officials.</p> + + <p>It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure the best + sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest distributed to settlers as + an inducement for rapid colonization. The enthusiasm increased with the glamour of + Spanish history and the generous flow of Sazerac.</p> + + <p>It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man idling + away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a month; and in the + enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration of the new territory and to + locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have foreseen that the attempted location of the + Iturbide Grant would upset the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under + French protection?</p> + + <p>The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to furnish funds + for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant. This was easily accomplished + through some enthusiastic French bankers.</p> + + <p>The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure the + approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San Francisco for Guaymas + with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were not so bad as reckless; not + ungovernable, but independent.</p> + + <p>The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are preserved, show + our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of January, 1854. The Mexican + officials were polite, but not cordial. They said Santa Ana had no right to sell the + territory, as he was an usurper and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. + As international tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice + points of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but pushed on + to the newly acquired territory.</p> + + <p>We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that the boundary + did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger territory could have been + secured as easily, but the American Minister had only one idea, and that was to + secure "a pass" for a Southern Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the + Pacific Ocean. The pass desired was the Guadaloupe Cañon, used as a wagon road + by General Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to + say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass.</p> + + <p>The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence to us: it + belongs to Mexico.</p> + + <p>The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the United + States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison with all the other + countries of the world, it is still nearly as great an enigma as when first explored + in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive + as the valley of the Nile. The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits + in the open. In fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no + winter.</p> + + <p>The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any that I + have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are not occupied. + Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like a cloud, and settlers + could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover, the Apaches have been a continual + source of dread and danger. This state of affairs is, however, now passing away.</p> + + <p>There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of towns, + missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences of former Spanish + civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There were evidences of a still more + remote and mysterious civilization by an aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, + and can learn but little by the vestiges they have left upon earth.</p> + + <p>They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities, built + fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has been found that + they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled vehicles, neither iron, steel, + nor copper implements; and yet they built houses more than five stories high, and cut + joists with stone axes.</p> + + <p>How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering for their + irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the Euphrates, the Ganges, or + the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas grandes) are precisely with the + cardinal points.</p> + + <p>Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most unique edifice + in the United States. Just when and how it was built baffles human curiosity. Whether + it was erected for a temple, a palace, or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The + settlement or city surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten + miles, judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space. An + irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or settlement, for + domestic uses and for irrigation.</p> + + <p>The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time immemorial, + at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming. Their tribal + organization has many features worthy imitation by more civilized people. The + government rests with a hereditary chief and a council of sages. The rights of + property are protected, as far as they have any individual property, which is small, + as they are in fact communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands + is obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe.</p> + + <p>In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently asked + questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to answer. For instance, + they inquired, "Who made the world and everything therein?"</p> + + <p>I replied, "God."</p> + + <p>"Where does he live?"</p> + + <p>"In the sky."</p> + + <p>"What does he sit on?"</p> + + <p>In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older than the + Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the requirements of satisfied + nationalities. The old men said the marriage system had given them more trouble than + anything else, and they finally abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young + people were allowed to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they + could "swap."</p> + + <p>In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected a stalwart + Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the English language, and gave + him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about the size of a saucer, to stand guard in + front of my quarters.</p> + + <p>One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with their + arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I inquired, "Luis, who is + that?"</p> + + <p>"That is my brother-in-law."</p> + + <p>"Did you marry his sister?"</p> + + <p>"No."</p> + + <p>"Did he marry your sister?"</p> + + <p>"No."</p> + + <p>"Then how is he your brother-in-law?"</p> + + <p>"We swapped wives."</p> + + <p>Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation of large + personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal property, that is, house + and household belongings, which he had used during life, is committed to the flames + as a sanitary measure, and whatever he may have left of personal property is divided + among the tribe.</p> + + <p>The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the Pimas to + pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs resembling the Jews, + especially the periodical seclusion of women.</p> + + <p>The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make frequent + campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a campaign, if they have + shed blood they paint their faces black, and seclude themselves from the women. If + they have not shed blood they paint their faces white, and enter the joys of + matrimony.</p> + + <p>The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and domestic + utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated cotton and manufactured + cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men understood spinning and weaving, and + passed the winter in this industrial pursuit.</p> + + <p>Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the wild + fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great quantities of + poultry.</p> + + <p>The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished the + California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland stages, besides their + faithful and unwavering friendship.</p> + + <p>The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all the + anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than has hitherto + been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There are similar edifices in + Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples. These Arizona cliff dwellings are the + only edifices of the kind that are known to have been inhabited by mankind. They + exist mostly in the mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient + race, still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared, no + doubt, as a refuge against enemies.</p> + + <p>At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no civilized + population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo of Tucson contained + probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half breeds. The Pima Indians on the + Gila River numbered from seven to ten thousand, and were the only producing + population. We could not explore the country north of the Gila River, because of the + Apaches, who then numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have + killed Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest continuous + war on record.</p> + + <p>It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a country + destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to its junction with the + Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the + American flag. The commanding officer, Major—afterwards + General—Heintzelman, issued the regulation allowance of emigrant rations, which + were very grateful to men who had been living for some time without what are usually + called the necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the + Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing.</p> + + <p>It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the seaport of + the new territory.</p> + + <p>The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles, and + steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post. By the treaty + with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from the mouth of the Rio + Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila River, thence along the channel of + the Gila River to its confluence with the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a + point at the confluence of the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the + Pacific Ocean six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego."</p> + + <p>As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it was not + presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary line would include + both banks of the Colorado River in the American boundary, but it does. By a curious + turn in the Colorado River, after passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the + opposite bank, the boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the + River to the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of California + was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary line of the State, and + consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip of land on the bank of the Colorado + opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma was established, the commanding officer + established a military reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its + junction with the Gila.</p> + + <p>The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty of 1848, + was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of the Colorado, to + indicate the possession of the United States.</p> + + <p>While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot month of + July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of land opposite Fort + Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties, maps, surveying instruments, and + stationery, there was not much difficulty in making the location. The actual survey + showed 936 acres within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." + A town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization.</p> + + <p>After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to cross the + desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the journey on mules, with + extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as much rejoiced as the followers of + Xenophon to see the sea.</p> + + <p>The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have been done if + both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the Gila had not been + recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the State of California. The 'county + of San Diego collected taxes there for many years. After the organization of the + Territory of Arizona in 1863, Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a + prison there. Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the + "Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not involving the + validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still remains unsettled, as it + requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the State Legislature to change the + boundaries of a sovereign State.</p> + + <p>The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there as long as + the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was completed years ago, and forms + the great artery of commerce. Immigration enterprises of great magnitude have been + undertaken with the waters of the Colorado River. The river washes fully three + hundred thousand square miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the + Grand Cañon only second to Niagara.</p> + + <p>"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far made is by + pumping works, which raise the water from the river and convey it in pipes to the + lands to be watered. While thus far only a limited area is watered by this method, + the results are satisfactory, and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe + systems of California.</p> + + <p>"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the project to + irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in the arid West, if in the + world.</p> + + <p>"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a point in + the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the conducting of the waters of + this river over an arid waste, that, while forbidding in appearance, is known to be + capable of great fertility. One interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the + desert is found in the character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the + water of the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit than + any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is true, in a relative + degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By constant use of these waters the soil + not only receives the reviving benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very + considerable amount of fertilizing material.</p> + + <p>"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically + demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a vast area, + with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one of the most significant + suggestions conceivable in connection with the new era of irrigation.</p> + + <p>"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far been one + of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in this section are equal + to any section of the arid West, and because of the stability and certainty of this + method, it is only a question of time when it will be carried into practical + force."<a id="FNanchorB" name="FNanchorB"></a><a + href="#Footnote_B"><sup>[B]</sup></a></p> + + <p>In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian school, + where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in learning.</p> + + <p>After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San Francisco, + and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not much) before the + "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding officer of the Pacific, and + procured a recommendation to the Secretary of War for an exploration of the Colorado + River. This was subsequently accomplished with beneficial results,—at least for + information. In San Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for + the purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening the new + Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made <i>via</i> Panama.</p> + <hr style="width: 40%;" /> + + <p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + <a id="Footnote_A" name="Footnote_A"></a><a href="#FNanchorA">[A]</a> + + <div class="note"> + It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a thousand times, why the + Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary line. The true inwardness of the + treaty is attempted to be explained. The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at + the junction of the Gila, is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney + General Hart.—C.D.P. + </div> + <a id="Footnote_B" name="Footnote_B"></a><a href="#FNanchorB">[B]</a> + + <div class="note"> + Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such quotations will occur + in this series without further credit. C. D. P. + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="II" name="II"></a> + + <h2>II</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>Early Mining and Filibustering</h3> + + <p>In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the new + Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention. They had something + else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of Presidents, was very polite, and + asked many questions about the new acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson + Davis, promised to order an exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get + an appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they could be + spared.</p> + + <p>During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the town was + crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had an extra bed put in my + room at the National, and we messed together. It was an advantage to have an officer + of the Army who had been in command at Yuma to give information about the country, + and the association thus formed lasted through life.</p> + + <p>There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York, the seat + of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been organized under a + munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The capital stock was a hundred + million dollars. The scheme was to build a railroad from the Mississippi River to the + Pacific Ocean on the proceeds of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions + of dollars stock as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses + and promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker, Secretary of + the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas Butler King, of Georgia, + late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my recent superior; Secretary, Samuel + Jaudon, late Cashier of the United States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the + Company, received me at dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance + with Thomas Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages.</p> + + <p>This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J. Walker was + to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the secretary, was to display + his financial ability in New York and the Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of + Cincinnati, was agent for the Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the + State of Texas, and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio + Grande and the Colorado.</p> + + <p>I told them all I knew about the Territory,—and a great deal more,—and + enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company by an + exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral resources. They + inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration. I replied that I would start + with a hundred thousand dollars if there was a million behind it.</p> + + <p>A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and shares sold at + an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was appointed president, and I was + appointed "manager and commandant." The office was located in Cincinnati, for the + convenience of General Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. + William Wrightson was appointed secretary.</p> + + <p>As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this arduous + undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San Antonio, Texas, and I + proceeded there to complete the outfit.</p> + + <p>San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time. Wagons, + ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men could be found in + Texas willing to go anywhere.</p> + + <p>At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me to go to + New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners, and as he was going to + Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels, and received the benefit of his + introduction. There were plenty of educated German miners about New Bramfels, working + on farms and selling lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company + was made up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil.</p> + + <p>We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and took the + road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762 miles by the itinerary. + The plains of Texas were covered with verdure and flowers, and the mocking birds made + the night march a serenade.</p> + + <p>I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military officers of the + frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first military post on the road was Fort + Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful location. The post was at that time under the + command of the famous John Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California.</p> + + <p>Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks; and as he + was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept an invitation to + dinner.</p> + + <p>After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers, but Magruder + said:—</p> + + <p>"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest."</p> + + <p>I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the regulations of + the Army."</p> + + <p>"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay here + three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an escort with you to + overtake it."</p> + + <p>So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a prisoner of war + more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with abundant provisions, if they only + had French cooks.</p> + + <p>After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we arrived on + the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth of July. El Paso at + this time was enjoying an era of commercial prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. + Silver flowed in in a stream.</p> + + <p>After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio Grande at Fort + Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping the command on the + green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with Doctor Steck and his interpreter made + a visit to the Apaches in their stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre.</p> + + <p>There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which afforded + shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in camp,—physically, fine + looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day was long. The agent distributed two + wagon loads of corn, from which they made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink.</p> + + <p>Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico and + selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved themselves + expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of the trees, as they are + economists in ammunition if nothing else.</p> + + <p>Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the old + triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches that I was "a + mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock nor kill any of my men.</p> + + <p>The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would not molest + us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico."</p> + + <p>On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it.</p> + + <p>I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely among the + chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many years afterwards an + Apache girl told me they could have killed me often from ambush, but they remembered + the treaty and would not do it. I have generally found the Indians willing to keep + faith with the whites, if the whites will keep faith with them.</p> + + <p>After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua Mountains, and + camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon, which empties into the Gila + River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and + about a hundred came thundering down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted + and well armed. Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and + many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the spoil of + Mexican foray.</p> + + <p>A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got out, and + everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking man named Alessandro, + and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a parley was called when they reached + the rope.</p> + + <p>When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and trade; + that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we were not traders, + and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at this, and made some + demonstrations against the rope. I told the interpreter to say that I would shoot the + first man that crossed the rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they + thought better of it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck + off for their homes in the north.</p> + + <p>I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered very brave; + but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in coming forward, and I cried + out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you come out?"</p> + + <p>He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out with a + rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German pipe in his + mouth.</p> + + <p>The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high mountains and + wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and camped at the old Mission Church + of San Xavier del Bac.</p> + + <p>Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac means water) + is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This is the most ancient + pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish history in the narrative of + Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition of Coronado in search of gold stopped here + awhile, and washed some gold from the sands of the Cañon del Oro on sheep + skins. It is well known that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this + experience, remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,—Jason in + Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever since, without + profound knowledge of its origin.</p> + + <p>The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last of August + the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated.</p> + + <p>As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to graze in + charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two weeks' furlough was + given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their sins, and get acquainted with the + Mexican señoritas, who flocked there in great numbers from the adjoining State + of Sonora.</p> + + <p>Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few interruptions by + violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused by a quarrel among some + Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver. There were not more than a dozen + Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when we arrived, and they were not Methodist + preachers. The town has grown with the country, and now contains a population of + nearly ten thousand people, of many shades of color and many nationalities.</p> + + <p>The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for the + company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense, and fortunately + without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the scene of our future operations, + and the exploration and settlement of a territory of considerably over a hundred + thousand square miles was before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It + would not be prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had + hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place for storage + and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a headquarters. We had some + hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons, ambulances, arms, provisions, + merchandise, mining, material,—and moreover, what we considered of inestimable + value, the future,—in our keeping, and a proper location was a grave + consideration.</p> + + <p>The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita Mountains on + the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as the Arno, flowing from + the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which had been formerly occupied and + cultivated. The presidio was called Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just + evacuated the presidio of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of + preservation, minus the doors and windows, which they hauled away.</p> + + <p>The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church of San + Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino real) to Sonora and + Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out + for the presidio of Tubac to establish our headquarters and future home.</p> + + <p>There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins of + Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters, repaired the corrals, + and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as possible.</p> + + <p>The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched men to the + adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws, and soon had lumber for + doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and the primitive furniture necessary for + housekeeping. The quarters could accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals + were ample for the animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on + the north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The beautiful + Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel and grass were abundant + in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was not more than a hundred leagues to + Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of California, where European merchandise could be + obtained. There were no frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder + commerce.</p> + + <p>In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at Tubac + comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and were ready to begin + the exploration of the country for mines. When you look at the Santa Rita Mountains + from Tubac, it seems a formidable undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. + Nevertheless, we began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and + enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously worked by the + Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of arrastres and smelters. Gold + could be washed on the mountain sides, and silver veins could be traced by the + discolored grass.</p> + + <p>As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived in Tubac, + Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great numbers to work, and + skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen to twenty-five dollars a month and + rations. Sonora furnished flour, beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at + moderate prices.</p> + + <p>A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of seeking + employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said they would work for + $10 a day and board; that they got that in California, and would never work for less. + After staying a few days at the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, + showing their gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at + Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a chance." + They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white trash.</p> + + <p>Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac had little + holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate their farms, in many cases + accompanied by their families.</p> + + <p>By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a thousand + souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in the vicinity of Tubac. + We had no law but love, and no occupation but labor. No government, no taxes, no + public debt, no politics. It was a community in a perfect state of nature. As + "syndic" under New Mexico, I opened a book of records, performed the marriage + ceremony, baptized children, and granted divorces.</p> + + <p>Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its + señoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male population + from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the equilibrium of population, till + in some pueblos the disproportion was as great as a dozen females to one male; and in + the genial climate of Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. + Consequently the señoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the + Santa Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling provisions + they came in state,—others came on the hurricane deck of burros, and many came + on foot. All were provided for.</p> + + <p>The Mexican señoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier + population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them were good + Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and the American women "Las + Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a Mexican woman despises it is a red + petticoat. They are exceedingly dainty in their underclothing,—wear the finest + linen they can afford; and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men + of northern Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect.</p> + + <p>This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of frontier + society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless appendages in camp. They + could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash clothes, sew, dance, and + sing,—moreover, they were expert at cards, and divested many a miner of his + week's wages over a game of monte.</p> + + <p>As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally authorized + to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant divorces, execute + criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions of the ancient El Cadi. The + records of this primitive period are on file in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo + of Tucson, Pima County.</p> + + <p>Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as the priest + there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of Tubac tied the knot + gratis, and gave them a treat besides.</p> + + <p>I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or two, and + had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according to gender, and began + to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent down Father Mashboef, (Vicar + Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after the spiritual condition of the Arizona + people.</p> + + <p>It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix up a + confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at breakfast; but + worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me with such affection, went + away with their reybosas over their heads without even a friendly salutation.</p> + + <p>It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban of the + Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by the arm, (a man + always takes you by the arm when he has anything unpleasant to say,) and + said:—</p> + + <p>"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these people; + but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes of God."</p> + + <p>I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be lifted. + The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and swearing, and said they + thought they were entitled to all the rights of matrimony.</p> + + <p>My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and had given + them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a Mexican dollar; and had + given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still, although the Pope of Rome was beyond + the jurisdiction of even the Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a + restoration of happiness.</p> + + <p>At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the Church to the + marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas with holy water, and it + cost the company about $700 to rectify the matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz.</p> + + <p>An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never be + lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the opening of mines + which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land which lay fallow, the + employment of labor which was idle, and the development of a new country were + meritorious undertakings.</p> + + <p>The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market afforded, + besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks, and other game, and we + obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of French wines for Sunday dinners and + the celebration of feast days.</p> + + <p>It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases commerce. We had + scarcely commenced to make silver bars—"current with the merchant"—when + the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of primitive commerce. Pack trains + arrived from Mexico, loaded with all kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase + everything they brought, whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take + in exchange silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American + merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our business. We were + essentially free traders.</p> + + <p>The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost enough to + purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any country of the world, so + near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in by mountains teeming with minerals. The + natural elements of prosperity seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our + primitive simplicity we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and + reduce them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the + productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the country + independent of foreign resources. The result will show the success or failure of this + Utopian scheme.</p> + + <p>The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of distributing + supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong coffee the first thing in the + morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at noon, and supper at sunset.</p> + + <p>Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from the + mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the afternoon. One Sunday + we had a fat wild turkey weighing about twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers + asked permission to assist in the <i>cocina</i>. It was done to a charm, and stuffed + with pine nuts, which gave it a fine flavor.</p> + + <p>As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of San Jose de + Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River, afforded exercise and + diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday afternoon. The old mission was + rapidly going to ruin, but the records showed that it formerly supported a population + of 3,500 people, from cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, + and working the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently + again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the gardens of + the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in a perfect state of + preservation.</p> + + <p>The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country of oases + and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the governing machine as the + sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In + countries requiring irrigation the communal system of distributing water has been + found to produce the greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government + granting water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against + nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question will soon + come up whether the government has any more right to sell the water than the air.</p> + + <p>In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared at Tubac, + and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the industry of a German + gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon produced all vegetables, melons, etc., + that we required, and many a weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the + hospitalities of Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had + more than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for entertainment, + horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road. Hospitality is a savage virtue, and + disappears with civilization.</p> + + <p>As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory yield, we + turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River, and soon struck a vein + of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded from the grass roots seven thousand + dollars a ton. This mine was named in honor of the president of the company, + "Heintzelman," which in German mining lore is also the name of the genius who + presides over mines.</p> + + <p>The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was shipped, + via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132 cents per ounce for + the Asiatic market.</p> + + <p>Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required some more + convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of "boletas." Engravings + were made in New York, and paper money printed on pasteboard about two inches by + three in small denominations, twelve and one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty + cents, one dollar, five dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the + illiterate could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig; + twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse; five dollars, + a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the hands were paid off every + Saturday, and they were currency at the stores, and among the merchants of the + country and in Mexico. When a run of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could + have them redeemed in silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive + system of greenbacks worked very well,—everybody holding boletas was interested + in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on the prosperity + of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the bank of Nature, and industry + puts the money in circulation, to the benefit of mankind.</p> + + <p>In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons arrived in + the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a military post, and for the + protection of the infant settlements. The officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, + and Captain Ewell. The first military post was established at Calaveras, and the + arrival of the officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz.</p> + + <p>Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a citizens' train of + wagons laden with supplies,—twelve wagons of twelve mules each,—belonging + to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was encamped at Tubac I inquired the + price of freight, and learned it was fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I + inquired what he would charge to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul + them from the Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half + cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,—a ton to the + wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long haul."</p> + + <p>Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to different + cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its first reputation as a + producer of minerals. The average yield in silver was not enormous, as the ores + contained a great deal of copper, but the silver yield was about fifteen hundred + dollars to the ton.</p> + + <p>In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La Aribac," or + Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a beautiful valley encompassed + by mountains, and containing only a few leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine + Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802, and title obtained from the Spanish government. The + ownership and occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who + obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and maintained + continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the company for a valuable + consideration.</p> + + <p>The validity of the title has been denied by the United States, notwithstanding + the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before the United States Land + Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the United States Supreme Court, with a fair + prospect of the ultimate loss of the property. The company conveyed the property with + all mines and claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,—a + woful heritage.</p> + + <p>In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz valley. + The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive methods of reduction. + The farmers were planting with every prospect of a good crop. Emigrants were coming + into the country and taking up farms. Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty + Dollar or its representative.</p> + + <p>The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war, going on in + Sonora between two factions for the control of the State government. Gaudara was the + actual governor, and had been so for many years, during which time he had accumulated + a handsome fortune in lands, mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He + was a sedate and dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite + and hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without property or + position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods. Consequently a revolution was + commenced to obtain control of the governorship of the State; and just the same as + when King David sought refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who + were refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined Pesquiera to + rob Guadara. This is all there was,—or ever is, to Mexican revolutions.</p> + + <p>On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora to + California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila descent, married + to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with a large family of girls and + boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and + Montgomery streets, where there was the usual sign,—</p> + + <p class="center">SE COMPRA ORO<br /> + Up Stairs</p> + + <p>The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty and graces + of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and married well.</p> + + <p>As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have caused many + eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should not take part in the + little revolution going on in their native State (Sonora). Their husbands could then + become eminent men, annex the State of Sonora to the United States, and become + governors and senators. It was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, + and their husbands were eminently deserving,—in fact, their husbands were + already the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had been a + prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others had occupied high + position in Federal and State service, and were highly respected among their fellow + citizens. In this state of affairs the eldest brother,—Augustine, was + despatched to Sonora to see what arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the + Americans would come from California and help him oust Gaudara.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was necessary; the + substance of which was that the Americans should come with five hundred men, well + armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and establishing himself as governor of + Sonora. After that the Americans could name whatever they wanted in money or + political offices, even to the annexation of the State, which was at that time + semi-independent of Mexico.</p> + + <p>Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, returned to + California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans immediately began to drum + up for recruits; but the prosperity of California was so great that but a few could + be persuaded to leave a certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California + actually started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of recruits + by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show that they crossed the + river with only forty-two men and a boy.</p> + + <p>With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one hundred and + thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line of Mexico at the Sonoita + (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream of water struggling for existence in + the sands. At the Sonoita the invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, + forwarded through Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State + of Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and they paid no + attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of Mexico with arms and in + hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of Altar they diverged from the main + road to the west, and took the road to Caborca.</p> + + <p>The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have expected + reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to a little port called + Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as it may, no reinforcements ever + came: and this little handful of Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the + little town of Caborca without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of + the States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in + California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in such + position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and families in California, + and all of them had warm friends there.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent language + of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to exterminate the invaders and to + preserve their homes. The roads fairly swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns + carried lances, those who had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by + Mexicans, and the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on + the east side of the plaza.</p> + + <p>This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into the + church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and surrendered. My God! had + they lost their senses? These forty-two American gentlemen, who had left their wives, + children, and friends in California a month or two before under a contract with + Pesquiera were butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man + raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter.</p> + + <p>They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could have + turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old friends and + acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom over the country.</p> + + <p>There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I know it to + be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were read, Gabilonda, second + in command, swore he would have nothing to do with it, and mounting his horse swung + the little boy Evans behind him and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to + Guaymas, from where he was afterwards sent to California.</p> + + <p>It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the hogs to eat, + but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug and gave them Christian + interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of the leaders, but a detachment came + up the Gila River to Tucson and Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise + twenty-five or thirty men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on + the Santa Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I + remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in Mexican + revolutions. He said,—</p> + + <p>"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross the Mexican + line."</p> + + <p>I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly demoralized, + wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into a hospital for their + relief, with such accommodations as could be afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of + the adage that "dead men tell no tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in + triumph to Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of the + days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera with the Mexican + government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb Expedition, one of the most + ill-fated and melancholy of any in the bloody annals of Mexico.</p> + + <p>The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the Mexican + government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the line, and business of + all kinds was paralyzed.</p> + + <p>Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los Angeles, with + only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a rest.</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="III" name="III"></a> + + <h2>III</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>War-Time in Arizona</h3> + + <p>The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from California, + generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of death to fall on the + boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had been massacred at Caborca, and many + Mexicans had been killed. The abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe + over the Mexican boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the + United States.</p> + + <p>Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the massacre, + came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although he was perfectly + innocent of any crime,—on the contrary, deserved credit for his humanity in + rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial + organized by Pesquiera, the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green + old age as Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and + respected.</p> + + <p>When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857, the + country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines were put in + operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico. Christmas week the usual + festival was given at Arivaca, and all the neighbors within a hundred miles + invited.</p> + + <p>In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and the sad + events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as possible. The + government had subsidized an overland mail service at nearly a million a year, called + the Butterfield line, with daily mails from St. Louis to San Francisco, running + through Arizona. The mail service of the West has done a great deal to build up the + country; and population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its + future prosperity.</p> + + <p>General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the mines. + Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president of the company, as + he had contributed about two hundred and fifty thousand dollars in money and arms to + its resources, with the intention of enlisting as much capital as might be required + from New England. Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled + overland from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,—1350 miles.</p> + + <p>The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the contrary, passed + within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into Mexico on their forays rather + than break their treaty with the Americans. They could have easily carried off our + stock by killing the few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from + doing so from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law + among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot.</p> + + <p>In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox, + established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one hundred and + fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the company bought all they + could saw. They built a house and corral on the south side of the Santa Cruz River, + on the road from Tucson to Tubac, called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very + convenient stopping place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty + Mexicans rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches, and + were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the Babaquivera plain, + intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans + wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut off), and rescue the animals, offering to + divide them with us for our assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, + and how faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa, where + the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which they accepted, as + they were new in the country and needed horses and mules. The lumbermen joined the + Mexicans, and as they could easily discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of + dust, succeeded in forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached + the river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind.</p> + + <p>The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with the + lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their adventure the + lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp at the Canoa on the Santa + Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and whisky.</p> + + <p>About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual quiet + Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously into the plaza, + crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he had recovered sufficiently to + talk, we learned that the Apaches had made an attack on Canoa, and killed all the + settlers.</p> + + <p>It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we could + only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start until early next + morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos Apaches."</p> + + <p>When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as if it had + been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were smashed, and the house a + smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying around dead, and three of them had been + thrown into the well, head foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the + burnt houses.</p> + + <p>As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been fully eighty + Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280 head of animals from the + Canoa and the adjoining ranches.</p> + + <p>There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort Buchanan. The + commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in pursuit, but the Apaches + were in their strongholds long before the dragoons saddled their horses.</p> + + <p>The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very skillful in + forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open field. Their horsemanship + is far superior to American troops, who are for the most part foreigners, and + exceedingly awkward.</p> + + <p>The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far more + foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous.</p> + + <p>In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to the + presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and a fire. Whether + he had been run out of California by the Vigilance Committee, as many of our "guests" + had been, or was escaping legitimate justice, was not in question; the imperative + cravings of the stomach admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to + dinner, and provided him with all the comforts of home.</p> + + <p>At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the fire; to which + I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar the door between us.</p> + + <p>The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised him to + push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably get some + employment.</p> + + <p>He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary partnership + with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the country at that time.</p> + + <p>She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent, as he had a + red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably formed the only matrimonial + tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman. In the course of time John Ward got a + hay contract, a wagon, and a few yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle + Sam's expense. Fort Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of + dragoons. The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a + step-ladder.</p> + + <p>In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son Micky Free + until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that he could not find his + oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to Major Stein, the commanding officer, + that the Apaches had stolen his oxen and carried off the woman's boy.</p> + + <p>Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill in + Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe, and ordered out + a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches + and recover Micky Free and the oxen. Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a + Kentuckian, a West Pointer, and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a + fool; although his uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very + eminent clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family from + Bascomb of the Confederate X roads.</p> + + <p>Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding in Sonora, + into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The Apaches were summoned + to camp <i>under a white flag</i>; and feeling perfectly innocent of having committed + a crime against the Americans, fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant + Bascomb and his boys in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen + the oxen; and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant + was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed.</p> + + <p>Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect Wood) + managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his bonds, and escape. He + was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked a terrible vengeance for the + treachery of American troops to the Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in + the Chiricahua Mountains, 1874.</p> + + <p>The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years, and has + scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men, women, and children, + killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment to the settlement of Arizona cannot + be computed. The cost of the war against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a + string of yokes of oxen reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his + woman's son, Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and + about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that profession. I am on + very friendly terms with him and all his family, and would not write a word in + derogation of his character, or of his step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate + history.</p> + + <p>The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of unsavory + immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas and Arkansas, + rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days. Gambling has been an + industrial pursuit since the first settlement of the country, and the saloon business + flourishes with the prosperity of the times. Strange to say, amidst this + heterogeneous population there has never been a vigilance committee.</p> + + <p>The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve, with + occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of 1861, when the + reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in the Arizona mountains. A + newspaper had been started by the company at Tubac, called <i>The Arizonian</i>. Our + mail came overland by Butterfield coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but + at last we waited for "the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was + started out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of the + West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the line and withdraw + the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in Stein's Pass, killed all of the + men, and captured the gold.</p> + + <p>In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the mines were + yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were working for good wages, + which were paid punctually every Saturday afternoon.</p> + + <p>One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and handed me a note + from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order from the commanding officer of + the Military Department:—</p> + + <center> + <blockquote> + <p class="right">Santa Fe, June, 1861,</p> + + <p class="right">Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:—</p> + + <p>On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy your Post; burn your + Commissary and Quartermasters' stores, and everything between the Colorado and + Rio Grande that will feed an army.</p> + + <p>March out with your guns loaded, and do not permit any citizen within fifteen + miles of your lines.</p> + + <p class="right">(Signed) Major General Lynde</p> + </blockquote> + + <p>A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid before them. + The wisest said we could not hold the country after the troops abandoned + it,—that the Apaches would come down upon us by the hundred, and the Mexicans + would cut our throats. It was concluded to reduce the ore we had mined, which was + yielding about a thousand dollars a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the + worst.</p> + + <p>About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried off out of + the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules.</p> + + <p>The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the skill of + many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of adobe, with a gate or + bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice for the Apaches to saw an + entrance through an adobe wall with their horsehair ropes (cabrestas).</p> + + <p>The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus poles + (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches tried their rope + saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up, and a log chain wound around + each bar and locked to the post; but they removed the bars quietly by wrapping + their scrapes around the chain, to prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The + steam engine was running day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the + rounds of the place every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful + and secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their presence on + the place was observed,—not even by the watchdogs, which generally have a + keen scent for Indians.</p> + + <p>At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the entire + herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were sleeping under a porch + within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as soon as possible; but the pursuers + soon ran into an ambuscade prepared by the retreating Apaches, when three were + killed and two wounded. The rest returned without recovering any of the stock.</p> + + <p>This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not be + replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or provisions; + only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be kept in stables and fed on + grain.</p> + + <p>About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining + Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be abandoned.</p> + + <p>At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel + furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand dollars worth + of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The Apaches, to the number of + nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and compelled its evacuation. The plunder and + destruction of property was complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and + nothing to sleep on but the ground.</p> + + <p>The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where the few + people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they remained there in a + miserable condition until the troops arrived from California under General James A. + Carlton, United States Army, commonly called "Carlton's Column."</p> + + <p>General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order declaring + martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These troops garrisoned the + country between the rivers, and drove out the rebel troops, who had come in from + Texas under the Confederate government.</p> + + <p>After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed + Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring that the + American government was broken up, and they had come to take their country back + again. Even the few Americans left in the country were not at peace among + themselves,—the chances were that if you met in the road it was to draw arms, + and declare whether you were for the North or the South.</p> + + <p>The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they were + asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico. The smoke of + burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa Cruz valley, where the + troops were in retreat, destroying everything before and behind them. The + government of the United States abandoned the first settlers of Arizona to the + merciless Apaches. It was impossible to remain in the country and continue the + business without animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to + pack our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike out + across the deserts for California.</p> + + <p>With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and some + friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the fourth of July, + where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another journey took us across the + Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we went by steamer to San Francisco, and + thence via Panama to New York.</p> + + <p>It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in ruins, + but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this time in machinery, + materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc., amounted to considerably over + a million dollars, but the greatest blow was the destruction of our + hopes,—not so much of making money as of making a country. Of all the + lonesome sounds that I remember (and it seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the + crowing of cocks on the deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that + they were abandoned.</p> + + <p>We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it was + supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of the journey by + day and standing guard all night was trying on the strongest constitution in the + hot summer month of June.</p> + + <p>An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the deserts to + California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book, "Across America and + Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the harrowing scenes preceding the + abandonment of the country are only briefly stated.</p> + + <p>The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the change of + venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to my credit from the + silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88 Wall Street, and I put it up + as margin on gold at $132 and sold for $250.</p> + + <p>After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found my old + friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically called "The Defenses + of Washington." The capital of the nation was beleaguered!</p> + + <p>The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years.</p> + + <p>The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and Lower + California, under direction of Captain—afterwards General—Stone, an + officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had first become + acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia Barracks, in California, + and met him the last time when he was chief of staff to the Khedive of Egypt at + Grand Cairo, on the Nile.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence of + Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by force of + arms.</p> + + <p>The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been furnished + by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them through their + correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had been contributed by the + entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon, as the French were desirous of + getting a foothold in Mexico. The expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party + was considered an affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken + under a valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were not + satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in the enterprise. + The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land location finally caused the + intervention of the French government.</p> + + <p>It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation of Vera + Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish soon withdrew, and + left the French to pull their own chestnut out of the fire.</p> + + <p>The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we were in the + midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity to set up Maximilian + of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by French forces under Bazaine.</p> + + <p>No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized with + the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them substantial aid + if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to New York as a + warning,—and the French had had enough of Russians on their track.</p> + + <p>It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the Maximilian + Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the survey and location of + the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and recognized as a public debt of the + Empire, and such will be found a matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no + doubt, keep them as companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The + Grant has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs, in + equity, the original million dollars.</p> + + <p>The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American boundary line, + and many Mexicans took refuge in the United States,—among them Pesquiera, the + governor of Sonora. His camp was at the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa + Cruz Valley and his wife is buried there.</p> + + <p>President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during the reign + of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled to furnish him with a + hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession of Lower California. The + circumstances were recently related for the Examiner of San Francisco, by + Señor Romero, the Mexican minister in Washington.</p> + + <p>During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many Americans + flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with the government of the + Confederate States, and consequently with the occupation of Mexico.</p> + + <p>The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the + Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora, but I never + believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted a title of + nobility.</p> + + <p>The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as well as + the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire and the French + Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire of the People grows + stronger every year.</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="IV" name="IV"></a> + + <h2>IV</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>Arizona a Territory at Last</h3> + + <p>When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me on a call + at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a territorial government + for Arizona.</p> + + <p>President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally said, + "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that."</p> + + <p>I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the Committee + on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona.</p> + + <p>The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,—it is + just like hell—all it lacks is water and good society."</p> + + <p>He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss the + subject.</p> + + <p>Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the House, and + readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial government. In a few days + President Lincoln appointed an evening, to hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona + from 8 to 12. The chairmen of the committees on Territories attended, and General + Heintzelman and some other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical + data, some specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and + some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a territorial + government for Arizona was agreed upon.</p> + + <p>The country was at that time under martial law,—General Carlton. If any + system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law. Whatever may be + the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts, they form the only means + civilized society has yet devised for the settlement of disputes. It is true that a + territorial form of government was never contemplated by the framers of the + Constitution, as no provision was made for such a form of government; but this + omission is covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power + to "provide for the general welfare."</p> + + <p>The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An Act to + provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of time, no doubt, + all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the territorial form of + government is not provided for as a permanency by the Constitution, and is moreover + anomalous in the American system. The people residing in the Territories are to a + considerable extent disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged + American citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to + their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will be forced + by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights of sovereign + States.</p> + + <p>The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a bill + dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and eleventh degree of + longitude west; and providing for the organization of "The Territory of Arizona" + from the western half. The bill soon became an Act of Congress, and was approved by + President Lincoln on the twenty-third of February, 1863.</p> + + <p>The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an oyster + supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I fortified myself + with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is to become of me?"</p> + + <p>They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said:</p> + + <p>"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with them."</p> + + <p>So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the office + was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth about thirty-three + cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona.</p> + + <p>Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues across the + plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach at Kansas City, and + crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by river steamer to San Francisco. + The Indian goods had been shipped to Yuma.</p> + + <p>In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just returned from + Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at my expense. He + afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings in the Apache Country," + published by Harpers.</p> + + <p>Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky, called upon + me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of priests down to Arizona, + to restore the service among the Indians at the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac + on the Santa Cruz, to which I assented with great pleasure.</p> + + <p>After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my orders + from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm Barracks for an escort + of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and prepared for the journey across the + Colorado Desert.</p> + + <p>We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week regaled the + Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their first presents from + Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila + River some two hundred miles to the Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima + Indians, gave a warm welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods.</p> + + <p>At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate the mass, + and tell the Indians something about God,—remembering my own failure in + teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians assembled, and Father + Bosco through my interpreter preached the first sermon the Pima Indians ever + heard.</p> + + <p>At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you make me + preach to these savages?—they squat on the ground, and laugh at me like + monkeys."</p> + + <p>The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission of San + Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos, a christianized + branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were my old friends and + acquaintances, and received the priests with fireworks and illuminations. They knew + of our coming, and had swept the church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar + with mistletoe.</p> + + <p>The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,----</p> + <br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">For the Jesuits told them long + ago</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">As sure as the water continued to + flow,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">The sun to shine, and the grass to + grow,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">They would come again to the + Papago.</span><br /> + <br /> + + <p>I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over the goods + intended for the Papagos for distribution at their convenience.</p> + + <p>I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had lived there + all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing his clothes. As nails + were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill held together by rawhides, and + was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In the meantime he had taken up with a Papago + girl, to the scandal of the tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or + leave. He appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my + sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the mill.</p> + + <p>In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona, mostly from + the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on the Hassayamp. Old + Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a trapper and pioneer since 1836. + His name is carved on the walls of the Casa Grande with that date.</p> + + <p>The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be established + on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the settlers in peace when + they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made + a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried off nearly all the stock.</p> + + <p>King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man among the + settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a company to go after the + Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means "fool.")</p> + + <p>There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly Maricopas. + They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted principally of panole and + jerkey.</p> + + <p>They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way between + Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The tanks there are + surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the country in the vicinity is + covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had vomited the refuse of the subterranean + world to disfigure nature.</p> + + <p>The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant. Delshay, + the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky. The Americans had + neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he was quite put out about it, but + partook of panole and jerked beef.</p> + + <p>The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made demands + which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five Indians at the + council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As the Indians became more + hostile the situation became more serious, and it was evident to the Americans that + they were surrounded, and in imminent danger of massacre.</p> + + <p>Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at once that + either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so he said: "Boys, we + have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick out your Indian, and I will + shoot the chief for a signal."</p> + + <p>The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded. The only + American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my Indian agent at the + Pima villages.</p> + + <p>Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the Indian + in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and transfixed him. + They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of death.</p> + + <p>The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack mule, + carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with Christian services at + the foot of an aspen tree.</p> + + <p>The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps.</p> + + <p>After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into the Pima + villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me, took down the + account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans engaged in the + expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his stenography, he asked one + of the men if he had any Indian relics. The man replied, "Yes, I have got some + jerked years," and he presented Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on + buckskin.</p> + + <p>I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among the + Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a company of Pimas + and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received arms and ammunition from the + government, and I had uniforms and swords enough for the officers. They soon + learned to drill, and already knew how to shoot.</p> + + <p>The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set out all + the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when we turned east by + Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail.</p> + + <p>The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Cañon has never + been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the junction of the + Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches.</p> + + <p>The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,—twenty-four Americans and + twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as the number + of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation.</p> + + <p>There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on the Salt + River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with the Gila. We camped at + the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed Salt River at the peak about + Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima villages, glad enough to get to that haven of + rest. It was 100 miles to Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any + provisions between the two places.</p> + + <p>There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time, except for + people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the golden harps of New + Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the government of the United States, + in school books; and perhaps had enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July + oration in youth; but these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no + government of any consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the + Democratic principle, not for protection but for revenue only.</p> + + <p>I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods without + regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody that came along in + need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I wound up the Indian service with + loss of about $5,000 out of my own pocket.</p> + + <p>At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens of gold + quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently called Vulture, and + wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't want to buy your mine, but I + will give you twenty-five dollars' worth of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will + go away and leave me alone."</p> + + <p>I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King of Spain + for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish grants in Texas, + California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest, even if the grant had been + made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by the Continental Congress.</p> + + <p>The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I know of + are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at Florence.</p> + + <p>The government of the United States can never recompense the people of Arizona + for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to make the plea that + a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not have conquered this tribe of + savages, if the will to do so had existed. Now, after forty years of devastation, + the government pays the Apaches one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in + goods to maintain a quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an + Apache outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the war-path, + which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A Century of Dishonor" + was a well written book, and contains many unpleasant truths.</p> + + <p>In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues in the + territorial government had crossed the plains, and established the capital at a + remote place in the northern mountains, which they called "Prescott," in honor of + the Mexican historian. Just as was supposed, they quarreled all the way across the + plains about who should be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had + never seen.</p> + + <p>Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that I had + already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes of the people. + The political machine had not then been organized, and the people had some say in + the elections.</p> + + <p>The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate to + Congress from Arizona.</p> + + <p>The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is evidenced + by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State or Territory in the + Union, <i>per capita</i>. The Capital was moved from town to town, as a political + factor in the election of delegates, but now rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River + Valley, where it will permanently remain, as no other place in the Territory can + ever rival Phoenix in the abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and + happiness of life. The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water + storage in reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile.</p> + + <p>At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now stands, + and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It had been occupied + some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated the land by irrigation, and + built houses and cities which have gone to ruin. The most diligent search has + developed but few evidences of the extent of their civilization. They had not + advanced very far, as they left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The + land in cultivation would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred + thousand souls.</p> + + <p>It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western country, to + desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in Congress.</p> + + <p>It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to + New York and Washington.</p> + + <p>I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman (Roscoe + Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very pompous way:</p> + + <p>"I observe you have drawn a front seat,—and as I presume you do not wish + to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the courtesy to exchange + seats with me."</p> + + <p>I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more + becoming to my station.</p> + + <p>In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my seat, + and said, "Poston, how is this?—your mileage is $7,200, and mine is only + $300."</p> + + <p>I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?"</p> + + <p>He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon."</p> + + <p>"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona—that equalizes + the mileage."</p> + + <p>He certified the account, and never said another word.</p> + + <p>The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made + $12,200;—but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and + presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the Territory for + which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe hardships endured, and + money was not spared to bring it to public notice on every suitable occasion.</p> + + <p>The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they are + considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having any vote nor in + any other way being recognized as equals. They were not obliged at that time to + serve on committees, nor expected to answer the roll-call. It was an easy berth for + an indolent man without ambition or avarice.</p> + + <p>The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The Civil War + had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the surface, and their + acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look over their photographs, now it + is like shuffling an old pack of cards which have been played out,—they have + nearly all gone to the Upper Chamber,—in this world or the next. Grow and + Holman are the only ones in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the + House, and treated me with the most distinguished consideration,—even to the + compliment of dining at my house,—which was unprecedented in his long public + career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my wife was a + Baptist.</p> + + <p>I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An + appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for the + construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona to become + self-supporting. This was the first instance in which irrigation was brought to the + notice of the government.</p> + + <p>President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my family lived + in the neighborhood where the President had been reared, my little girl made him a + satchel of corn shucks from the field where he had hoed corn barefooted in the + briars, thinking he might appreciate a souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I + escorted my daughter to the executive mansion to deliver my present. The President + received it graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors.</p> + + <p>The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution, and as + the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper giving their + adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill.</p> + <br /> + + + <p>The End.</p> + </center> + + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11226 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + + + diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..48332eb --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #11226 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/11226) diff --git a/old/11226-8.txt b/old/11226-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cfe9e59 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11226-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2399 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Building a State in Apache Land, by Charles D. Poston + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Building a State in Apache Land + +Author: Charles D. Poston + +Release Date: February 22, 2004 [EBook #11226] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Garrett Alley and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team + + + + + +BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND + + * * * * * + +From articles of Charles D. Poston in the _Overland Express_ + + * * * * * + +1894 + + + * * * * * + +I + + +How the Territory Was Acquired + + +In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the +northeast corner of Stockton and Washington, of considerable +architectural pretensions for the period, which was called the +"Government Boarding House." + +The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their +families, a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal, +and several lesser dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there. +In those early days private mansions were few; so the boarding-house +formed the only home of the Argonauts. + +After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in +the spacious parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics. + +It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had +been instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the +acquisition of additional territory; not that there was a pressing +necessity for more land, but for reasons which will be briefly stated: + +1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,[A] the +government of the United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans +from the incursions of Indians within the United States boundary, and as +this proved to be an impractical undertaking, the damages on account of +failure began to assume alarming proportions, and the government of the +United States was naturally anxious to be released from the obligation. + +2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern +States were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of +this element for many years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi +River to the Pacific Ocean, and the additional territory was required +for "a pass". It was not known at that early day that railroads could be +constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher latitude, and it was +feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the extremes of +winter. + +The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction +of such a railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as +the Rio Grande, and it devolved upon the United States to provide the +means of getting on to the Pacific Ocean. The intervening country +belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose of acquiring this +land the treaty was authorized. + +The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa +Ana had usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator +under the name of President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had +been convened since they were herded together at the conclusion of the +Mexican War under protection of American troops. + +The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely +favorable. The treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the +tariff of 1846 business was prosperous, the public debt small, and the +future unclouded. The American Minister to Mexico (General Gadsden of +South Carolina) was authorized to make several propositions:-- + +1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande +west to the Pacific Ocean. + +2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the +Yaqui River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include +the peninsula of Lower California. + +3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass." + +A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the +"railroad pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the +Colorado Rivers south of the Gila River, with the boundary line between +the United States and Mexico about the shape of a dog's hind leg. The +price paid for the new territory, which was temporarily called the +"Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars. + +A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the +Treasury, on the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana; +but not a dollar of it ever reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana +fled with the spoil. The remaining three millions were retained to pay +the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was signed in Mexico on +the 23d day of December, 1853. + +Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting +parties, in the City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew +interesting at the Government Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new +California was hoped for on the southern boundary. Old Spanish history +was ransacked for information from the voyages of Cortez in the Gulf of +California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in great +demand. + +In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San +Francisco with a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor +Iturbide, the Congress of the Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the +family of one million dollars; but on account of successive revolutions +this sum was never at the disposition of the Mexican treasury, and in +liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant of land in +California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could +be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost. +The heirs then made application to the Mexican government for another +grant of land in lieu of the California concession, and were granted +seven hundred leagues of land, to be located in Sonora, Sinaloa and +Lower California, in such parcels as they might select. + +Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a +single body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient +to locate the land in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The +government of Mexico conceded whatever was required, and the grant was +made in all due form of Mexican law. + +In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it +was urged: That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the +Pacific, and its waters full of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower +California was copper-bound, interspersed with gold and minerals, +illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest +breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the +richest of Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials, +with highly productive agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That +the country north of Sonora, called in the Spanish history "Arizunea" +(rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile valleys washed by +numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate was +all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to +an altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the +Southern Pacific Railroad would soon be built through the new country, +and that a new State would be made as a connecting link between Texas +and California, with the usual quota of governors, senators, and public +officials. + +It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure +the best sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest +distributed to settlers as an inducement for rapid colonization. The +enthusiasm increased with the glamour of Spanish history and the +generous flow of Sazerac. + +It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man +idling away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a +month; and in the enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration +of the new territory and to locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have +foreseen that the attempted location of the Iturbide Grant would upset +the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under French +protection? + +The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to +furnish funds for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant. +This was easily accomplished through some enthusiastic French bankers. + +The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure +the approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San +Francisco for Guaymas with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were +not so bad as reckless; not ungovernable, but independent. + +The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are +preserved, show our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of +January, 1854. The Mexican officials were polite, but not cordial. They +said Santa Ana had no right to sell the territory, as he was an usurper +and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. As international +tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice points +of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but +pushed on to the newly acquired territory. + +We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that +the boundary did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger +territory could have been secured as easily, but the American Minister +had only one idea, and that was to secure "a pass" for a Southern +Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The +pass desired was the Guadaloupe Cañon, used as a wagon road by General +Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to +say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass. + +The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence +to us: it belongs to Mexico. + +The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the +United States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison +with all the other countries of the world, it is still nearly as great +an enigma as when first explored in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the +sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive as the valley of the Nile. +The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits in the open. In +fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no winter. + +The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any +that I have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are +not occupied. Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like +a cloud, and settlers could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover, +the Apaches have been a continual source of dread and danger. This state +of affairs is, however, now passing away. + +There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of +towns, missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences +of former Spanish civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There +were evidences of a still more remote and mysterious civilization by an +aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, and can learn but little by +the vestiges they have left upon earth. + +They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities, +built fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has +been found that they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled +vehicles, neither iron, steel, nor copper implements; and yet they built +houses more than five stories high, and cut joists with stone axes. + +How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering +for their irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the +Euphrates, the Ganges, or the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas +grandes) are precisely with the cardinal points. + +Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most +unique edifice in the United States. Just when and how it was built +baffles human curiosity. Whether it was erected for a temple, a palace, +or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The settlement or city +surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten miles, +judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space. +An irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or +settlement, for domestic uses and for irrigation. + +The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time +immemorial, at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming. +Their tribal organization has many features worthy imitation by more +civilized people. The government rests with a hereditary chief and a +council of sages. The rights of property are protected, as far as they +have any individual property, which is small, as they are in fact +communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands is +obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe. + +In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently +asked questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to +answer. For instance, they inquired, "Who made the world and everything +therein?" + +I replied, "God." + +"Where does he live?" + +"In the sky." + +"What does he sit on?" + +In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older +than the Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the +requirements of satisfied nationalities. The old men said the marriage +system had given them more trouble than anything else, and they finally +abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young people were allowed +to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they could +"swap." + +In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected +a stalwart Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the +English language, and gave him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about +the size of a saucer, to stand guard in front of my quarters. + +One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with +their arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I +inquired, "Luis, who is that?" + +"That is my brother-in-law." + +"Did you marry his sister?" + +"No." + +"Did he marry your sister?" + +"No." + +"Then how is he your brother-in-law?" + +"We swapped wives." + +Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation +of large personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal +property, that is, house and household belongings, which he had used +during life, is committed to the flames as a sanitary measure, and +whatever he may have left of personal property is divided among the +tribe. + +The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the +Pimas to pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs +resembling the Jews, especially the periodical seclusion of women. + +The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make +frequent campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a +campaign, if they have shed blood they paint their faces black, and +seclude themselves from the women. If they have not shed blood they +paint their faces white, and enter the joys of matrimony. + +The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and +domestic utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated +cotton and manufactured cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men +understood spinning and weaving, and passed the winter in this +industrial pursuit. + +Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the +wild fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great +quantities of poultry. + +The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished +the California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland +stages, besides their faithful and unwavering friendship. + +The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all +the anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than +has hitherto been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There +are similar edifices in Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples. +These Arizona cliff dwellings are the only edifices of the kind that are +known to have been inhabited by mankind. They exist mostly in the +mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient race, +still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared, +no doubt, as a refuge against enemies. + +At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no +civilized population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo +of Tucson contained probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half +breeds. The Pima Indians on the Gila River numbered from seven to ten +thousand, and were the only producing population. We could not explore +the country north of the Gila River, because of the Apaches, who then +numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have killed +Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest +continuous war on record. + +It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a +country destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to +its junction with the Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort +Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the American flag. The commanding +officer, Major--afterwards General--Heintzelman, issued the regulation +allowance of emigrant rations, which were very grateful to men who had +been living for some time without what are usually called the +necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the +Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing. + +It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the +seaport of the new territory. + +The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles, +and steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post. +By the treaty with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from +the mouth of the Rio Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila +River, thence along the channel of the Gila River to its confluence with +the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a point at the confluence of +the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the Pacific Ocean +six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego." + +As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it +was not presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary +line would include both banks of the Colorado River in the American +boundary, but it does. By a curious turn in the Colorado River, after +passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the opposite bank, the +boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the River to +the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of +California was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary +line of the State, and consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip +of land on the bank of the Colorado opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma +was established, the commanding officer established a military +reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its junction +with the Gila. + +The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty +of 1848, was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of +the Colorado, to indicate the possession of the United States. + +While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot +month of July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of +land opposite Fort Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties, +maps, surveying instruments, and stationery, there was not much +difficulty in making the location. The actual survey showed 936 acres +within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." A +town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization. + +After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to +cross the desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the +journey on mules, with extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as +much rejoiced as the followers of Xenophon to see the sea. + +The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have +been done if both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the +Gila had not been recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the +State of California. The county of San Diego collected taxes there for +many years. After the organization of the Territory of Arizona in 1863, +Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a prison there. +Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the +"Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not +involving the validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still +remains unsettled, as it requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the +State Legislature to change the boundaries of a sovereign State. + +The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there +as long as the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was +completed years ago, and forms the great artery of commerce. Immigration +enterprises of great magnitude have been undertaken with the waters of +the Colorado River. The river washes fully three hundred thousand square +miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the Grand Cañon +only second to Niagara. + +"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far +made is by pumping works, which raise the water from the river and +convey it in pipes to the lands to be watered. While thus far only a +limited area is watered by this method, the results are satisfactory, +and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe systems of +California. + +"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the +project to irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in +the arid West, if in the world. + +"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a +point in the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the +conducting of the waters of this river over an arid waste, that, while +forbidding in appearance, is known to be capable of great fertility. One +interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the desert is found in the +character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the water of +the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit +than any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is +true, in a relative degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By +constant use of these waters the soil not only receives the reviving +benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very considerable amount +of fertilizing material. + +"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically +demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a +vast area, with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one +of the most significant suggestions conceivable in connection with the +new era of irrigation. + +"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far +been one of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in +this section are equal to any section of the arid West, and because of +the stability and certainty of this method, it is only a question of +time when it will be carried into practical force."[B] + +In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian +school, where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in +learning. + +After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San +Francisco, and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not +much) before the "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding +officer of the Pacific, and procured a recommendation to the Secretary +of War for an exploration of the Colorado River. This was subsequently +accomplished with beneficial results,--at least for information. In San +Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for the +purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening +the new Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made _via_ Panama. + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote A: It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a +thousand times, why the Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary +line. The true inwardness of the treaty is attempted to be explained. +The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at the junction of the Gila, +is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney General +Hart.--C.D.P.] + +[Footnote B: Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such +quotations will occur in this series without further credit.--C.D.P.] + + + + + +II + +Early Mining and Filibustering + + +In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the +new Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention. +They had something else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of +Presidents, was very polite, and asked many questions about the new +acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, promised to order an +exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get an +appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they +could be spared. + +During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the +town was crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had +an extra bed put in my room at the National, and we messed together. It +was an advantage to have an officer of the Army who had been in command +at Yuma to give information about the country, and the association thus +formed lasted through life. + +There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York, +the seat of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been +organized under a munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The +capital stock was a hundred million dollars. The scheme was to build a +railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean on the proceeds +of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions of dollars stock +as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses and +promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker, +Secretary of the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas +Butler King, of Georgia, late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my +recent superior; Secretary, Samuel Jaudon, late Cashier of the United +States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the Company, received me at +dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance with Thomas +Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages. + +This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J. +Walker was to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the +secretary, was to display his financial ability in New York and the +Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of Cincinnati, was agent for the +Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the State of Texas, +and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio Grande +and the Colorado. + +I told them all I knew about the Territory,--and a great deal more,--and +enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company +by an exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral +resources. They inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration. +I replied that I would start with a hundred thousand dollars if there +was a million behind it. + +A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and +shares sold at an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was +appointed president, and I was appointed "manager and commandant." The +office was located in Cincinnati, for the convenience of General +Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. William +Wrightson was appointed secretary. + +As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this +arduous undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San +Antonio, Texas, and I proceeded there to complete the outfit. + +San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time. +Wagons, ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men +could be found in Texas willing to go anywhere. + +At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me +to go to New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners, +and as he was going to Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels, +and received the benefit of his introduction. There were plenty of +educated German miners about New Bramfels, working on farms and selling +lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company was made +up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil. + +We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and +took the road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762 +miles by the itinerary. The plains of Texas were covered with verdure +and flowers, and the mocking birds made the night march a serenade. + +I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military +officers of the frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first +military post on the road was Fort Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful +location. The post was at that time under the command of the famous John +Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California. + +Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks; +and as he was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept +an invitation to dinner. + +After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers, +but Magruder said:-- + +"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest." + +I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the +regulations of the Army." + +"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay +here three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an +escort with you to overtake it." + +So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a +prisoner of war more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with +abundant provisions, if they only had French cooks. + +After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we +arrived on the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth +of July. El Paso at this time was enjoying an era of commercial +prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. Silver flowed in in a stream. + +After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio +Grande at Fort Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping +the command on the green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with +Doctor Steck and his interpreter made a visit to the Apaches in their +stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre. + +There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which +afforded shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in +camp,--physically, fine looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day +was long. The agent distributed two wagon loads of corn, from which they +made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink. + +Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico +and selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved +themselves expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of +the trees, as they are economists in ammunition if nothing else. + +Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the +old triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches +that I was "a mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock +nor kill any of my men. + +The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would +not molest us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico." + +On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it. + +I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely +among the chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many +years afterwards an Apache girl told me they could have killed me often +from ambush, but they remembered the treaty and would not do it. I have +generally found the Indians willing to keep faith with the whites, if +the whites will keep faith with them. + +After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua +Mountains, and camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon, +which empties into the Gila River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the +rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and about a hundred came thundering +down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted and well armed. +Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and +many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the +spoil of Mexican foray. + +A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got +out, and everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking +man named Alessandro, and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a +parley was called when they reached the rope. + +When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and +trade; that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we +were not traders, and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at +this, and made some demonstrations against the rope. I told the +interpreter to say that I would shoot the first man that crossed the +rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they thought better of +it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck off +for their homes in the north. + +I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered +very brave; but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in +coming forward, and I cried out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you +come out?" + +He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out +with a rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German +pipe in his mouth. + +The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high +mountains and wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and +camped at the old Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac. + +Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac +means water) is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This +is the most ancient pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish +history in the narrative of Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition +of Coronado in search of gold stopped here awhile, and washed some gold +from the sands of the Cañon del Oro on sheep skins. It is well known +that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this experience, +remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,--Jason in +Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever +since, without profound knowledge of its origin. + +The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last +of August the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated. + +As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to +graze in charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two +weeks' furlough was given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their +sins, and get acquainted with the Mexican señoritas, who flocked there +in great numbers from the adjoining State of Sonora. + +Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few +interruptions by violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused +by a quarrel among some Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver. +There were not more than a dozen Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when +we arrived, and they were not Methodist preachers. The town has grown +with the country, and now contains a population of nearly ten thousand +people, of many shades of color and many nationalities. + +The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for +the company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense, +and fortunately without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the +scene of our future operations, and the exploration and settlement of a +territory of considerably over a hundred thousand square miles was +before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It would not be +prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had +hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place +for storage and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a +headquarters. We had some hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons, +ambulances, arms, provisions, merchandise, mining, material,--and +moreover, what we considered of inestimable value, the future,--in our +keeping, and a proper location was a grave consideration. + +The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita +Mountains on the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as +the Arno, flowing from the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which +had been formerly occupied and cultivated. The presidio was called +Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just evacuated the presidio +of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of preservation, minus +the doors and windows, which they hauled away. + +The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church +of San Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino +real) to Sonora and Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission +San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out for the presidio of Tubac to +establish our headquarters and future home. + +There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins +of Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters, +repaired the corrals, and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as +possible. + +The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched +men to the adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws, +and soon had lumber for doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and +the primitive furniture necessary for housekeeping. The quarters could +accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals were ample for the +animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on the +north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The +beautiful Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel +and grass were abundant in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was +not more than a hundred leagues to Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of +California, where European merchandise could be obtained. There were no +frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder commerce. + +In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at +Tubac comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and +were ready to begin the exploration of the country for mines. When you +look at the Santa Rita Mountains from Tubac, it seems a formidable +undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. Nevertheless, we +began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and +enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously +worked by the Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of +arrastres and smelters. Gold could be washed on the mountain sides, and +silver veins could be traced by the discolored grass. + +As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived +in Tubac, Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great +numbers to work, and skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen +to twenty-five dollars a month and rations. Sonora furnished flour, +beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at moderate prices. + +A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of +seeking employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said +they would work for $10 a day and board; that they got that in +California, and would never work for less. After staying a few days at +the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, showing their +gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at +Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a +chance." They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white +trash. + +Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac +had little holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate +their farms, in many cases accompanied by their families. + +By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a +thousand souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in +the vicinity of Tubac. We had no law but love, and no occupation but +labor. No government, no taxes, no public debt, no politics. It was a +community in a perfect state of nature. As "syndic" under New Mexico, I +opened a book of records, performed the marriage ceremony, baptized +children, and granted divorces. + +Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its +señoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male +population from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the +equilibrium of population, till in some pueblos the disproportion was as +great as a dozen females to one male; and in the genial climate of +Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. Consequently +the señoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the Santa +Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling +provisions they came in state,--others came on the hurricane deck of +burros, and many came on foot. All were provided for. + +The Mexican señoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier +population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them +were good Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and +the American women "Las Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a +Mexican woman despises it is a red petticoat. They are exceedingly +dainty in their underclothing,--wear the finest linen they can afford; +and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men of northern +Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect. + +This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of +frontier society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless +appendages in camp. They could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash +clothes, sew, dance, and sing,--moreover, they were expert at cards, and +divested many a miner of his week's wages over a game of monte. + +As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally +authorized to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant +divorces, execute criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions +of the ancient El Cadi. The records of this primitive period are on file +in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo of Tucson, Pima County. + +Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as +the priest there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of +Tubac tied the knot gratis, and gave them a treat besides. + +I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or +two, and had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according +to gender, and began to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent +down Father Mashboef, (Vicar Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after +the spiritual condition of the Arizona people. + +It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix +up a confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at +breakfast; but worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me +with such affection, went away with their reybosas over their heads +without even a friendly salutation. + +It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban +of the Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by +the arm, (a man always takes you by the arm when he has anything +unpleasant to say,) and said:-- + +"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these +people; but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes +of God." + +I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be +lifted. The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and +swearing, and said they thought they were entitled to all the rights of +matrimony. + +My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and +had given them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a +Mexican dollar; and had given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still, +although the Pope of Rome was beyond the jurisdiction of even the +Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a restoration of +happiness. + +At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the +Church to the marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas +with holy water, and it cost the company about $700 to rectify the +matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz. + +An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never +be lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the +opening of mines which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land +which lay fallow, the employment of labor which was idle, and the +development of a new country were meritorious undertakings. + +The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market +afforded, besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks, +and other game, and we obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of +French wines for Sunday dinners and the celebration of feast days. + +It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases +commerce. We had scarcely commenced to make silver bars--"current with +the merchant"--when the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of +primitive commerce. Pack trains arrived from Mexico, loaded with all +kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase everything they brought, +whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take in exchange +silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American +merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our +business. We were essentially free traders. + +The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost +enough to purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any +country of the world, so near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in +by mountains teeming with minerals. The natural elements of prosperity +seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our primitive simplicity +we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and reduce +them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the +productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the +country independent of foreign resources. The result will show the +success or failure of this Utopian scheme. + +The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of +distributing supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong +coffee the first thing in the morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at +noon, and supper at sunset. + +Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from +the mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the +afternoon. One Sunday we had a fat wild turkey weighing about +twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers asked permission to assist +in the _cocina_. It was done to a charm, and stuffed with pine nuts, +which gave it a fine flavor. + +As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of +San Jose de Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River, +afforded exercise and diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday +afternoon. The old mission was rapidly going to ruin, but the records +showed that it formerly supported a population of 3,500 people, from +cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, and working +the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently +again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the +gardens of the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in +a perfect state of preservation. + +The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country +of oases and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the +governing machine as the sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in +Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In countries requiring irrigation +the communal system of distributing water has been found to produce the +greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government granting +water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against +nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question +will soon come up whether the government has any more right to sell the +water than the air. + +In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared +at Tubac, and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the +industry of a German gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon +produced all vegetables, melons, etc., that we required, and many a +weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the hospitalities of +Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had more +than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for +entertainment, horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road. +Hospitality is a savage virtue, and disappears with civilization. + +As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory +yield, we turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River, +and soon struck a vein of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded +from the grass roots seven thousand dollars a ton. This mine was named +in honor of the president of the company, "Heintzelman," which in German +mining lore is also the name of the genius who presides over mines. + +The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was +shipped, via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132 +cents per ounce for the Asiatic market. + +Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required +some more convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of +"boletas." Engravings were made in New York, and paper money printed on +pasteboard about two inches by three in small denominations, twelve and +one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty cents, one dollar, five +dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the illiterate +could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig; +twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse; +five dollars, a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the +hands were paid off every Saturday, and they were currency at the +stores, and among the merchants of the country and in Mexico. When a run +of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could have them redeemed in +silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive system of +greenbacks worked very well,--everybody holding boletas was interested +in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on +the prosperity of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the +bank of Nature, and industry puts the money in circulation, to the +benefit of mankind. + +In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons +arrived in the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a +military post, and for the protection of the infant settlements. The +officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, and Captain Ewell. The first +military post was established at Calaveras, and the arrival of the +officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz. + +Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a +citizens' train of wagons laden with supplies,--twelve wagons of twelve +mules each,--belonging to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was +encamped at Tubac I inquired the price of freight, and learned it was +fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I inquired what he would charge +to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul them from the +Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half +cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,--a ton +to the wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long +haul." + +Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to +different cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its +first reputation as a producer of minerals. The average yield in silver +was not enormous, as the ores contained a great deal of copper, but the +silver yield was about fifteen hundred dollars to the ton. + +In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La +Aribac," or Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a +beautiful valley encompassed by mountains, and containing only a few +leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802, +and title obtained from the Spanish government. The ownership and +occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who +obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and +maintained continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the +company for a valuable consideration. + +The validity of the title has been denied by the United States, +notwithstanding the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before +the United States Land Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the +United States Supreme Court, with a fair prospect of the ultimate loss +of the property. The company conveyed the property with all mines and +claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,--a woful +heritage. + +In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz +valley. The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive +methods of reduction. The farmers were planting with every prospect of a +good crop. Emigrants were coming into the country and taking up farms. +Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty Dollar or its +representative. + +The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war, +going on in Sonora between two factions for the control of the State +government. Gaudara was the actual governor, and had been so for many +years, during which time he had accumulated a handsome fortune in lands, +mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He was a sedate and +dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite and +hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without +property or position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods. +Consequently a revolution was commenced to obtain control of the +governorship of the State; and just the same as when King David sought +refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who were +refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined +Pesquiera to rob Guadara. This is all there was,--or ever is, to Mexican +revolutions. + +On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora +to California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila +descent, married to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with +a large family of girls and boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican +Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets, where +there was the usual sign,-- + + SE COMPRA ORO + Up Stairs + +The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty +and graces of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and +married well. + +As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have +caused many eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should +not take part in the little revolution going on in their native State +(Sonora). Their husbands could then become eminent men, annex the State +of Sonora to the United States, and become governors and senators. It +was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, and their +husbands were eminently deserving,--in fact, their husbands were already +the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had +been a prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others +had occupied high position in Federal and State service, and were highly +respected among their fellow citizens. In this state of affairs the +eldest brother,--Augustine, was despatched to Sonora to see what +arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the Americans would come +from California and help him oust Gaudara. + +Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was +necessary; the substance of which was that the Americans should come +with five hundred men, well armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and +establishing himself as governor of Sonora. After that the Americans +could name whatever they wanted in money or political offices, even to +the annexation of the State, which was at that time semi-independent of +Mexico. + +Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +returned to California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans +immediately began to drum up for recruits; but the prosperity of +California was so great that but a few could be persuaded to leave a +certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California actually +started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of +recruits by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show +that they crossed the river with only forty-two men and a boy. + +With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one +hundred and thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line +of Mexico at the Sonoita (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream +of water struggling for existence in the sands. At the Sonoita the +invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, forwarded through +Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State of +Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and +they paid no attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of +Mexico with arms and in hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of +Altar they diverged from the main road to the west, and took the road to +Caborca. + +The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have +expected reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to +a little port called Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as +it may, no reinforcements ever came: and this little handful of +Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the little town of Caborca +without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of the +States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in +California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in +such position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and +families in California, and all of them had warm friends there. + +Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent +language of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to +exterminate the invaders and to preserve their homes. The roads fairly +swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns carried lances, those who +had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by Mexicans, and +the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on +the east side of the plaza. + +This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into +the church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and +surrendered. My God! had they lost their senses? These forty-two +American gentlemen, who had left their wives, children, and friends in +California a month or two before under a contract with Pesquiera were +butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man +raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter. + +They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could +have turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old +friends and acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom +over the country. + +There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I +know it to be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were +read, Gabilonda, second in command, swore he would have nothing to do +with it, and mounting his horse swung the little boy Evans behind him +and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to Guaymas, from where +he was afterwards sent to California. + +It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the +hogs to eat, but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug +and gave them Christian interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of +the leaders, but a detachment came up the Gila River to Tucson and +Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise twenty-five or thirty +men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on the Santa +Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I +remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in +Mexican revolutions. He said,-- + +"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross +the Mexican line." + +I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly +demoralized, wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into +a hospital for their relief, with such accommodations as could be +afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of the adage that "dead men tell no +tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in triumph to +Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of +the days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera +with the Mexican government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb +Expedition, one of the most ill-fated and melancholy of any in the +bloody annals of Mexico. + +The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the +Mexican government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the +line, and business of all kinds was paralyzed. + +Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los +Angeles, with only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a +rest. + + + + + +III + + +War-Time in Arizona + + +The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from +California, generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of +death to fall on the boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had +been massacred at Caborca, and many Mexicans had been killed. The +abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe over the Mexican +boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the United +States. + +Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the +massacre, came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although +he was perfectly innocent of any crime,--on the contrary, deserved +credit for his humanity in rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was +subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial organized by Pesquiera, +the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green old age as +Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and +respected. + +When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857, +the country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines +were put in operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico. +Christmas week the usual festival was given at Arivaca, and all the +neighbors within a hundred miles invited. + +In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and +the sad events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as +possible. The government had subsidized an overland mail service at +nearly a million a year, called the Butterfield line, with daily mails +from St. Louis to San Francisco, running through Arizona. The mail +service of the West has done a great deal to build up the country; and +population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its +future prosperity. + +General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the +mines. Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president +of the company, as he had contributed about two hundred and fifty +thousand dollars in money and arms to its resources, with the intention +of enlisting as much capital as might be required from New England. +Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled overland +from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,--1350 miles. + +The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the +contrary, passed within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into +Mexico on their forays rather than break their treaty with the +Americans. They could have easily carried off our stock by killing the +few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from doing so +from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law +among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot. + +In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox, +established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one +hundred and fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the +company bought all they could saw. They built a house and corral on the +south side of the Santa Cruz River, on the road from Tucson to Tubac, +called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very convenient stopping +place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty Mexicans +rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches, +and were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the +Babaquivera plain, intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the +Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut +off), and rescue the animals, offering to divide them with us for our +assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, and how +faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa, +where the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which +they accepted, as they were new in the country and needed horses and +mules. The lumbermen joined the Mexicans, and as they could easily +discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of dust, succeeded in +forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached the +river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind. + +The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with +the lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their +adventure the lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp +at the Canoa on the Santa Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and +whisky. + +About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual +quiet Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously +into the plaza, crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he +had recovered sufficiently to talk, we learned that the Apaches had made +an attack on Canoa, and killed all the settlers. + +It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we +could only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start +until early next morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos +Apaches." + +When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as +if it had been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were +smashed, and the house a smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying +around dead, and three of them had been thrown into the well, head +foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the burnt houses. + +As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been +fully eighty Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280 +head of animals from the Canoa and the adjoining ranches. + +There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort +Buchanan. The commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in +pursuit, but the Apaches were in their strongholds long before the +dragoons saddled their horses. + +The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very +skillful in forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open +field. Their horsemanship is far superior to American troops, who are +for the most part foreigners, and exceedingly awkward. + +The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far +more foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous. + +In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to +the presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and +a fire. Whether he had been run out of California by the Vigilance +Committee, as many of our "guests" had been, or was escaping legitimate +justice, was not in question; the imperative cravings of the stomach +admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to dinner, and +provided him with all the comforts of home. + +At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the +fire; to which I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar +the door between us. + +The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised +him to push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably +get some employment. + +He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary +partnership with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the +country at that time. + +She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent, +as he had a red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably +formed the only matrimonial tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman. +In the course of time John Ward got a hay contract, a wagon, and a few +yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle Sam's expense. Fort +Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of dragoons. +The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a +step-ladder. + +In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son +Micky Free until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that +he could not find his oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to +Major Stein, the commanding officer, that the Apaches had stolen his +oxen and carried off the woman's boy. + +Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill +in Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe, +and ordered out a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant +Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches and recover Micky Free and the oxen. +Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a Kentuckian, a West Pointer, +and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a fool; although his +uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very eminent +clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family +from Bascomb of the Confederate X roads. + +Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding +in Sonora, into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The +Apaches were summoned to camp _under a white flag_; and feeling +perfectly innocent of having committed a crime against the Americans, +fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant Bascomb and his boys +in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen the oxen; +and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant +was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed. + +Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect +Wood) managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his +bonds, and escape. He was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked +a terrible vengeance for the treachery of American troops to the +Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in the Chiricahua Mountains, +1874. + +The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years, +and has scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men, +women, and children, killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment +to the settlement of Arizona cannot be computed. The cost of the war +against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a string of yokes of oxen +reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his woman's son, +Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and +about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that +profession. I am on very friendly terms with him and all his family, and +would not write a word in derogation of his character, or of his +step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate history. + +The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of +unsavory immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas +and Arkansas, rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days. +Gambling has been an industrial pursuit since the first settlement of +the country, and the saloon business flourishes with the prosperity of +the times. Strange to say, amidst this heterogeneous population there +has never been a vigilance committee. + +The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve, +with occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of +1861, when the reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in +the Arizona mountains. A newspaper had been started by the company at +Tubac, called _The Arizonian_. Our mail came overland by Butterfield +coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but at last we waited for +"the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was started +out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of +the West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the +line and withdraw the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in +Stein's Pass, killed all of the men, and captured the gold. + +In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the +mines were yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were +working for good wages, which were paid punctually every Saturday +afternoon. + +One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and +handed me a note from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order +from the commanding officer of the Military Department:-- + + Santa Fe, June, 1861, + Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:-- + + On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy + your Post; burn your Commissary and Quartermasters' + stores, and everything between the Colorado + and Rio Grande that will feed an army. + + March out with your guns loaded, and do not + permit any citizen within fifteen miles of your lines. + + (Signed) Major General Lynde + +A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid +before them. The wisest said we could not hold the country after the +troops abandoned it,--that the Apaches would come down upon us by the +hundred, and the Mexicans would cut our throats. It was concluded to +reduce the ore we had mined, which was yielding about a thousand dollars +a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the worst. + +About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried +off out of the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules. + +The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the +skill of many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of +adobe, with a gate or bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice +for the Apaches to saw an entrance through an adobe wall with their +horsehair ropes (cabrestas). + +The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus +poles (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches +tried their rope saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up, +and a log chain wound around each bar and locked to the post; but they +removed the bars quietly by wrapping their scrapes around the chain, to +prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The steam engine was running +day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the rounds of the place +every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful and +secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their +presence on the place was observed,--not even by the watchdogs, which +generally have a keen scent for Indians. + +At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the +entire herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were +sleeping under a porch within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as +soon as possible; but the pursuers soon ran into an ambuscade prepared +by the retreating Apaches, when three were killed and two wounded. The +rest returned without recovering any of the stock. + +This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not +be replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or +provisions; only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be +kept in stables and fed on grain. + +About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining +Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be +abandoned. + +At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel +furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand +dollars worth of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The +Apaches, to the number of nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and +compelled its evacuation. The plunder and destruction of property was +complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and nothing to sleep on +but the ground. + +The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where +the few people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they +remained there in a miserable condition until the troops arrived from +California under General James A. Carlton, United States Army, commonly +called "Carlton's Column." + +General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order +declaring martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These +troops garrisoned the country between the rivers, and drove out the +rebel troops, who had come in from Texas under the Confederate +government. + +After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed +Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring +that the American government was broken up, and they had come to take +their country back again. Even the few Americans left in the country +were not at peace among themselves,--the chances were that if you met in +the road it was to draw arms, and declare whether you were for the North +or the South. + +The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they +were asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico. +The smoke of burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa +Cruz valley, where the troops were in retreat, destroying everything +before and behind them. The government of the United States abandoned +the first settlers of Arizona to the merciless Apaches. It was +impossible to remain in the country and continue the business without +animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to pack +our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike +out across the deserts for California. + +With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and +some friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the +fourth of July, where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another +journey took us across the Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we +went by steamer to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to New York. + +It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in +ruins, but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this +time in machinery, materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc., +amounted to considerably over a million dollars, but the greatest blow +was the destruction of our hopes,--not so much of making money as of +making a country. Of all the lonesome sounds that I remember (and it +seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the crowing of cocks on the +deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that they were +abandoned. + +We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it +was supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of +the journey by day and standing guard all night was trying on the +strongest constitution in the hot summer month of June. + +An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the +deserts to California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book, +"Across America and Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the +harrowing scenes preceding the abandonment of the country are only +briefly stated. + +The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the +change of venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to +my credit from the silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88 +Wall Street, and I put it up as margin on gold at $132 and sold for +$250. + +After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found +my old friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically +called "The Defenses of Washington." The capital of the nation was +beleaguered! + +The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years. + +The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and +Lower California, under direction of Captain--afterwards General--Stone, +an officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had +first become acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia +Barracks, in California, and met him the last time when he was chief of +staff to the Khedive of Egypt at Grand Cairo, on the Nile. + +Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence +of Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by +force of arms. + +The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been +furnished by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them +through their correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had +been contributed by the entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon, +as the French were desirous of getting a foothold in Mexico. The +expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party was considered an +affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken under a +valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were +not satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in +the enterprise. The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land +location finally caused the intervention of the French government. + +It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation +of Vera Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish +soon withdrew, and left the French to pull their own chestnut out of +the fire. + +The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we +were in the midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity +to set up Maximilian of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by +French forces under Bazaine. + +No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized +with the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them +substantial aid if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to +New York as a warning,--and the French had had enough of Russians on +their track. + +It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the +Maximilian Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the +survey and location of the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and +recognized as a public debt of the Empire, and such will be found a +matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no doubt, keep them as +companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The Grant +has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs, +in equity, the original million dollars. + +The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American +boundary line, and many Mexicans took refuge in the United +States,--among them Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora. His camp was at +the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa Cruz Valley and his wife is +buried there. + +President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during +the reign of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled +to furnish him with a hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession +of Lower California. The circumstances were recently related for the +Examiner of San Francisco, by Señor Romero, the Mexican minister in +Washington. + +During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many +Americans flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with +the government of the Confederate States, and consequently with the +occupation of Mexico. + +The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the +Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora, +but I never believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted +a title of nobility. + +The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as +well as the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire +and the French Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire +of the People grows stronger every year. + + + + + +IV + +Arizona a Territory at Last + + +When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me +on a call at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona. + +President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally +said, "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that." + +I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the +Committee on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona. + +The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,--it +is just like hell--all it lacks is water and good society." + +He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss +the subject. + +Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the +House, and readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial +government. In a few days President Lincoln appointed an evening, to +hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona from 8 to 12. The chairmen of +the committees on Territories attended, and General Heintzelman and some +other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical data, some +specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and +some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona was agreed upon. + +The country was at that time under martial law,--General Carlton. If any +system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law. +Whatever may be the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts, +they form the only means civilized society has yet devised for the +settlement of disputes. It is true that a territorial form of government +was never contemplated by the framers of the Constitution, as no +provision was made for such a form of government; but this omission is +covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power to +"provide for the general welfare." + +The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An +Act to provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of +time, no doubt, all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the +territorial form of government is not provided for as a permanency by +the Constitution, and is moreover anomalous in the American system. The +people residing in the Territories are to a considerable extent +disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged American +citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to +their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will +be forced by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights +of sovereign States. + +The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a +bill dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and +eleventh degree of longitude west; and providing for the organization of +"The Territory of Arizona" from the western half. The bill soon became +an Act of Congress, and was approved by President Lincoln on the +twenty-third of February, 1863. + +The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an +oyster supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I +fortified myself with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is +to become of me?" + +They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said: + +"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with +them." + +So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the +office was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth +about thirty-three cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona. + +Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues +across the plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach +at Kansas City, and crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by +river steamer to San Francisco. The Indian goods had been shipped to +Yuma. + +In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just +returned from Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at +my expense. He afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings +in the Apache Country," published by Harpers. + +Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky, +called upon me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of +priests down to Arizona, to restore the service among the Indians at +the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac on the Santa Cruz, to which I +assented with great pleasure. + +After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my +orders from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm +Barracks for an escort of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and +prepared for the journey across the Colorado Desert. + +We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week +regaled the Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their +first presents from Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at +Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila River some two hundred miles to the +Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima Indians, gave a warm +welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods. + +At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate +the mass, and tell the Indians something about God,--remembering my own +failure in teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians +assembled, and Father Bosco through my interpreter preached the first +sermon the Pima Indians ever heard. + +At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you +make me preach to these savages?--they squat on the ground, and laugh +at me like monkeys." + +The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission +of San Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos, +a christianized branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were +my old friends and acquaintances, and received the priests with +fireworks and illuminations. They knew of our coming, and had swept the +church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar with mistletoe. + +The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,---- + + For the Jesuits told them long ago + As sure as the water continued to flow, + The sun to shine, and the grass to grow, + They would come again to the Papago. + +I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over +the goods intended for the Papagos for distribution at their +convenience. + +I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had +lived there all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing +his clothes. As nails were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill +held together by rawhides, and was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In +the meantime he had taken up with a Papago girl, to the scandal of the +tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or leave. He +appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my +sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the +mill. + +In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona, +mostly from the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on +the Hassayamp. Old Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a +trapper and pioneer since 1836. His name is carved on the walls of the +Casa Grande with that date. + +The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be +established on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the +settlers in peace when they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat +cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried +off nearly all the stock. + +King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man +among the settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a +company to go after the Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means +"fool.") + +There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly +Maricopas. They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted +principally of panole and jerkey. + +They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way +between Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The +tanks there are surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the +country in the vicinity is covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had +vomited the refuse of the subterranean world to disfigure nature. + +The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant. +Delshay, the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky. +The Americans had neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he +was quite put out about it, but partook of panole and jerked beef. + +The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made +demands which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five +Indians at the council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As +the Indians became more hostile the situation became more serious, and +it was evident to the Americans that they were surrounded, and in +imminent danger of massacre. + +Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at +once that either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so +he said: "Boys, we have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick +out your Indian, and I will shoot the chief for a signal." + +The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded. +The only American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my +Indian agent at the Pima villages. + +Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the +Indian in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and +transfixed him. They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of +death. + +The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack +mule, carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with +Christian services at the foot of an aspen tree. + +The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps. + +After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into +the Pima villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me, +took down the account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans +engaged in the expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his +stenography, he asked one of the men if he had any Indian relics. The +man replied, "Yes, I have got some jerked years," and he presented +Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on buckskin. + +I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among +the Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a +company of Pimas and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received +arms and ammunition from the government, and I had uniforms and swords +enough for the officers. They soon learned to drill, and already knew +how to shoot. + +The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set +out all the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when +we turned east by Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail. + +The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Cañon has never +been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the +junction of the Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches. + +The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,--twenty-four Americans and +twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as +the number of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation. + +There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on +the Salt River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with +the Gila. We camped at the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed +Salt River at the peak about Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima +villages, glad enough to get to that haven of rest. It was 100 miles to +Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any provisions +between the two places. + +There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time, +except for people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the +golden harps of New Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the +government of the United States, in school books; and perhaps had +enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July oration in youth; but +these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no government of any +consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the Democratic +principle, not for protection but for revenue only. + +I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods +without regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody +that came along in need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I +wound up the Indian service with loss of about $5,000 out of my own +pocket. + +At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens +of gold quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently +called Vulture, and wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't +want to buy your mine, but I will give you twenty-five dollars' worth +of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will go away and leave me alone." + +I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King +of Spain for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish +grants in Texas, California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest, +even if the grant had been made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by +the Continental Congress. + +The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I +know of are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at +Florence. + +The government of the United States can never recompense the people of +Arizona for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to +make the plea that a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not +have conquered this tribe of savages, if the will to do so had existed. +Now, after forty years of devastation, the government pays the Apaches +one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in goods to maintain a +quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an Apache +outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the +war-path, which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A +Century of Dishonor" was a well written book, and contains many +unpleasant truths. + +In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues +in the territorial government had crossed the plains, and established +the capital at a remote place in the northern mountains, which they +called "Prescott," in honor of the Mexican historian. Just as was +supposed, they quarreled all the way across the plains about who should +be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had never seen. + +Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that +I had already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes +of the people. The political machine had not then been organized, and +the people had some say in the elections. + +The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate +to Congress from Arizona. + +The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is +evidenced by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State +or Territory in the Union, _per capita_. The Capital was moved from town +to town, as a political factor in the election of delegates, but now +rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River Valley, where it will permanently +remain, as no other place in the Territory can ever rival Phoenix in the +abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and happiness of life. +The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water storage in +reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile. + +At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now +stands, and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It +had been occupied some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated +the land by irrigation, and built houses and cities which have gone to +ruin. The most diligent search has developed but few evidences of the +extent of their civilization. They had not advanced very far, as they +left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The land in cultivation +would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred thousand +souls. + +It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western +country, to desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in +Congress. + +It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via +Panama to New York and Washington. + +I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman +(Roscoe Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very +pompous way: + +"I observe you have drawn a front seat,--and as I presume you do not +wish to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the +courtesy to exchange seats with me." + +I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more +becoming to my station. + +In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my +seat, and said, "Poston, how is this?--your mileage is $7,200, and mine +is only $300." + +I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?" + +He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon." + +"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona--that +equalizes the mileage." + +He certified the account, and never said another word. + +The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made +$12,200;--but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and +presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the +Territory for which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe +hardships endured, and money was not spared to bring it to public notice +on every suitable occasion. + +The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they +are considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having +any vote nor in any other way being recognized as equals. They were not +obliged at that time to serve on committees, nor expected to answer the +roll-call. It was an easy berth for an indolent man without ambition or +avarice. + +The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The +Civil War had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the +surface, and their acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look +over their photographs, now it is like shuffling an old pack of cards +which have been played out,--they have nearly all gone to the Upper +Chamber,--in this world or the next. Grow and Holman are the only ones +in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the House, and +treated me with the most distinguished consideration,--even to the +compliment of dining at my house,--which was unprecedented in his long +public career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my +wife was a Baptist. + +I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An +appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for +the construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona +to become self-supporting. This was the first instance in which +irrigation was brought to the notice of the government. + +President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my +family lived in the neighborhood where the President had been reared, +my little girl made him a satchel of corn shucks from the field where he +had hoed corn barefooted in the briars, thinking he might appreciate a +souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I escorted my daughter to the +executive mansion to deliver my present. The President received it +graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors. + +The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution, +and as the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper +giving their adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill. + + +The End. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Building a State in Apache Land +by Charles D. 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Poston + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Building a State in Apache Land + +Author: Charles D. Poston + +Release Date: February 22, 2004 [EBook #11226] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Garrett Alley and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team + + + + + + +</pre> + + <i>Overland Express</i>. <br /> + <br /> + <br /> + + <h1>Building a State in Apache Land</h1> + + <h2>From articles of Charles D. Poston in the <i>Overland Express</i></h2> + <br /> + <br /> + + <p class="center">1894</p> + <hr /> + <br /> + <br /> + <!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> + + + <p class="center"><a href="#I"><b>Section I</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#II"><b>Section II</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#III"><b>Section III</b></a></p> + + <p class="center"><a href="#IV"><b>Section IV</b></a></p> + <!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="I" name="I"></a> + + <h2>I</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>How the Territory Was Acquired</h3> + + <p>In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the northeast corner + of Stockton and Washington, of considerable architectural pretensions for the period, + which was called the "Government Boarding House."</p> + + <p>The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their families, + a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal, and several lesser + dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there. In those early days private + mansions were few; so the boarding-house formed the only home of the Argonauts.</p> + + <p>After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in the spacious + parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics.</p> + + <p>It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had been + instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the acquisition of additional + territory; not that there was a pressing necessity for more land, but for reasons + which will be briefly stated:</p> + + <p>1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,<a id="FNanchorA" + name="FNanchorA"></a><a href="#Footnote_A"><sup>[A]</sup></a> the government of the + United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans from the incursions of Indians + within the United States boundary, and as this proved to be an impractical + undertaking, the damages on account of failure began to assume alarming proportions, + and the government of the United States was naturally anxious to be released from the + obligation.</p> + + <p>2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern States + were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of this element for many + years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, and + the additional territory was required for "a pass". It was not known at that early + day that railroads could be constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher + latitude, and it was feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the + extremes of winter.</p> + + <p>The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction of such a + railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as the Rio Grande, and it + devolved upon the United States to provide the means of getting on to the Pacific + Ocean. The intervening country belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose + of acquiring this land the treaty was authorized.</p> + + <p>The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa Ana had + usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator under the name of + President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had been convened since they were + herded together at the conclusion of the Mexican War under protection of American + troops.</p> + + <p>The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely favorable. The + treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the tariff of 1846 business was + prosperous, the public debt small, and the future unclouded. The American Minister to + Mexico (General Gadsden of South Carolina) was authorized to make several + propositions:—</p> + + <p>1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande west to + the Pacific Ocean.</p> + + <p>2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the Yaqui + River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include the peninsula of + Lower California.</p> + + <p>3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass."</p> + + <p>A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the "railroad + pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the Colorado Rivers south of + the Gila River, with the boundary line between the United States and Mexico about the + shape of a dog's hind leg. The price paid for the new territory, which was + temporarily called the "Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars.</p> + + <p>A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the Treasury, on + the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana; but not a dollar of it ever + reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana fled with the spoil. The remaining three + millions were retained to pay the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was + signed in Mexico on the 23d day of December, 1853.</p> + + <p>Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting parties, in the + City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew interesting at the Government + Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new California was hoped for on the southern + boundary. Old Spanish history was ransacked for information from the voyages of + Cortez in the Gulf of California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in + great demand.</p> + + <p>In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San Francisco with + a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor Iturbide, the Congress of the + Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the family of one million dollars; but on + account of successive revolutions this sum was never at the disposition of the + Mexican treasury, and in liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant + of land in California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could + be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost. The heirs then + made application to the Mexican government for another grant of land in lieu of the + California concession, and were granted seven hundred leagues of land, to be located + in Sonora, Sinaloa and Lower California, in such parcels as they might select.</p> + + <p>Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a single + body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient to locate the land + in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The government of Mexico conceded + whatever was required, and the grant was made in all due form of Mexican law.</p> + + <p>In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it was urged: + That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the Pacific, and its waters full + of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower California was copper-bound, interspersed with + gold and minerals, illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest + breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the richest of + Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials, with highly productive + agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That the country north of Sonora, called + in the Spanish history "Arizunea" (rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile + valleys washed by numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate + was all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to an + altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the Southern Pacific + Railroad would soon be built through the new country, and that a new State would be + made as a connecting link between Texas and California, with the usual quota of + governors, senators, and public officials.</p> + + <p>It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure the best + sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest distributed to settlers as + an inducement for rapid colonization. The enthusiasm increased with the glamour of + Spanish history and the generous flow of Sazerac.</p> + + <p>It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man idling + away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a month; and in the + enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration of the new territory and to + locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have foreseen that the attempted location of the + Iturbide Grant would upset the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under + French protection?</p> + + <p>The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to furnish funds + for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant. This was easily accomplished + through some enthusiastic French bankers.</p> + + <p>The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure the + approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San Francisco for Guaymas + with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were not so bad as reckless; not + ungovernable, but independent.</p> + + <p>The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are preserved, show + our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of January, 1854. The Mexican + officials were polite, but not cordial. They said Santa Ana had no right to sell the + territory, as he was an usurper and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. + As international tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice + points of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but pushed on + to the newly acquired territory.</p> + + <p>We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that the boundary + did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger territory could have been + secured as easily, but the American Minister had only one idea, and that was to + secure "a pass" for a Southern Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the + Pacific Ocean. The pass desired was the Guadaloupe Cañon, used as a wagon road + by General Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to + say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass.</p> + + <p>The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence to us: it + belongs to Mexico.</p> + + <p>The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the United + States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison with all the other + countries of the world, it is still nearly as great an enigma as when first explored + in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive + as the valley of the Nile. The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits + in the open. In fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no + winter.</p> + + <p>The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any that I + have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are not occupied. + Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like a cloud, and settlers + could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover, the Apaches have been a continual + source of dread and danger. This state of affairs is, however, now passing away.</p> + + <p>There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of towns, + missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences of former Spanish + civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There were evidences of a still more + remote and mysterious civilization by an aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, + and can learn but little by the vestiges they have left upon earth.</p> + + <p>They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities, built + fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has been found that + they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled vehicles, neither iron, steel, + nor copper implements; and yet they built houses more than five stories high, and cut + joists with stone axes.</p> + + <p>How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering for their + irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the Euphrates, the Ganges, or + the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas grandes) are precisely with the + cardinal points.</p> + + <p>Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most unique edifice + in the United States. Just when and how it was built baffles human curiosity. Whether + it was erected for a temple, a palace, or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The + settlement or city surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten + miles, judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space. An + irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or settlement, for + domestic uses and for irrigation.</p> + + <p>The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time immemorial, + at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming. Their tribal + organization has many features worthy imitation by more civilized people. The + government rests with a hereditary chief and a council of sages. The rights of + property are protected, as far as they have any individual property, which is small, + as they are in fact communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands + is obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe.</p> + + <p>In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently asked + questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to answer. For instance, + they inquired, "Who made the world and everything therein?"</p> + + <p>I replied, "God."</p> + + <p>"Where does he live?"</p> + + <p>"In the sky."</p> + + <p>"What does he sit on?"</p> + + <p>In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older than the + Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the requirements of satisfied + nationalities. The old men said the marriage system had given them more trouble than + anything else, and they finally abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young + people were allowed to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they + could "swap."</p> + + <p>In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected a stalwart + Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the English language, and gave + him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about the size of a saucer, to stand guard in + front of my quarters.</p> + + <p>One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with their + arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I inquired, "Luis, who is + that?"</p> + + <p>"That is my brother-in-law."</p> + + <p>"Did you marry his sister?"</p> + + <p>"No."</p> + + <p>"Did he marry your sister?"</p> + + <p>"No."</p> + + <p>"Then how is he your brother-in-law?"</p> + + <p>"We swapped wives."</p> + + <p>Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation of large + personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal property, that is, house + and household belongings, which he had used during life, is committed to the flames + as a sanitary measure, and whatever he may have left of personal property is divided + among the tribe.</p> + + <p>The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the Pimas to + pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs resembling the Jews, + especially the periodical seclusion of women.</p> + + <p>The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make frequent + campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a campaign, if they have + shed blood they paint their faces black, and seclude themselves from the women. If + they have not shed blood they paint their faces white, and enter the joys of + matrimony.</p> + + <p>The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and domestic + utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated cotton and manufactured + cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men understood spinning and weaving, and + passed the winter in this industrial pursuit.</p> + + <p>Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the wild + fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great quantities of + poultry.</p> + + <p>The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished the + California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland stages, besides their + faithful and unwavering friendship.</p> + + <p>The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all the + anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than has hitherto + been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There are similar edifices in + Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples. These Arizona cliff dwellings are the + only edifices of the kind that are known to have been inhabited by mankind. They + exist mostly in the mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient + race, still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared, no + doubt, as a refuge against enemies.</p> + + <p>At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no civilized + population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo of Tucson contained + probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half breeds. The Pima Indians on the + Gila River numbered from seven to ten thousand, and were the only producing + population. We could not explore the country north of the Gila River, because of the + Apaches, who then numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have + killed Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest continuous + war on record.</p> + + <p>It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a country + destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to its junction with the + Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the + American flag. The commanding officer, Major—afterwards + General—Heintzelman, issued the regulation allowance of emigrant rations, which + were very grateful to men who had been living for some time without what are usually + called the necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the + Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing.</p> + + <p>It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the seaport of + the new territory.</p> + + <p>The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles, and + steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post. By the treaty + with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from the mouth of the Rio + Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila River, thence along the channel of + the Gila River to its confluence with the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a + point at the confluence of the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the + Pacific Ocean six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego."</p> + + <p>As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it was not + presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary line would include + both banks of the Colorado River in the American boundary, but it does. By a curious + turn in the Colorado River, after passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the + opposite bank, the boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the + River to the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of California + was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary line of the State, and + consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip of land on the bank of the Colorado + opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma was established, the commanding officer + established a military reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its + junction with the Gila.</p> + + <p>The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty of 1848, + was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of the Colorado, to + indicate the possession of the United States.</p> + + <p>While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot month of + July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of land opposite Fort + Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties, maps, surveying instruments, and + stationery, there was not much difficulty in making the location. The actual survey + showed 936 acres within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." + A town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization.</p> + + <p>After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to cross the + desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the journey on mules, with + extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as much rejoiced as the followers of + Xenophon to see the sea.</p> + + <p>The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have been done if + both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the Gila had not been + recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the State of California. The 'county + of San Diego collected taxes there for many years. After the organization of the + Territory of Arizona in 1863, Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a + prison there. Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the + "Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not involving the + validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still remains unsettled, as it + requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the State Legislature to change the + boundaries of a sovereign State.</p> + + <p>The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there as long as + the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was completed years ago, and forms + the great artery of commerce. Immigration enterprises of great magnitude have been + undertaken with the waters of the Colorado River. The river washes fully three + hundred thousand square miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the + Grand Cañon only second to Niagara.</p> + + <p>"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far made is by + pumping works, which raise the water from the river and convey it in pipes to the + lands to be watered. While thus far only a limited area is watered by this method, + the results are satisfactory, and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe + systems of California.</p> + + <p>"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the project to + irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in the arid West, if in the + world.</p> + + <p>"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a point in + the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the conducting of the waters of + this river over an arid waste, that, while forbidding in appearance, is known to be + capable of great fertility. One interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the + desert is found in the character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the + water of the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit than + any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is true, in a relative + degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By constant use of these waters the soil + not only receives the reviving benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very + considerable amount of fertilizing material.</p> + + <p>"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically + demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a vast area, + with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one of the most significant + suggestions conceivable in connection with the new era of irrigation.</p> + + <p>"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far been one + of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in this section are equal + to any section of the arid West, and because of the stability and certainty of this + method, it is only a question of time when it will be carried into practical + force."<a id="FNanchorB" name="FNanchorB"></a><a + href="#Footnote_B"><sup>[B]</sup></a></p> + + <p>In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian school, + where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in learning.</p> + + <p>After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San Francisco, + and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not much) before the + "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding officer of the Pacific, and + procured a recommendation to the Secretary of War for an exploration of the Colorado + River. This was subsequently accomplished with beneficial results,—at least for + information. In San Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for + the purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening the new + Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made <i>via</i> Panama.</p> + <hr style="width: 40%;" /> + + <p>FOOTNOTES:</p> + <a id="Footnote_A" name="Footnote_A"></a><a href="#FNanchorA">[A]</a> + + <div class="note"> + It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a thousand times, why the + Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary line. The true inwardness of the + treaty is attempted to be explained. The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at + the junction of the Gila, is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney + General Hart.—C.D.P. + </div> + <a id="Footnote_B" name="Footnote_B"></a><a href="#FNanchorB">[B]</a> + + <div class="note"> + Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such quotations will occur + in this series without further credit. C. D. P. + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="II" name="II"></a> + + <h2>II</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>Early Mining and Filibustering</h3> + + <p>In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the new + Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention. They had something + else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of Presidents, was very polite, and + asked many questions about the new acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson + Davis, promised to order an exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get + an appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they could be + spared.</p> + + <p>During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the town was + crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had an extra bed put in my + room at the National, and we messed together. It was an advantage to have an officer + of the Army who had been in command at Yuma to give information about the country, + and the association thus formed lasted through life.</p> + + <p>There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York, the seat + of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been organized under a + munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The capital stock was a hundred + million dollars. The scheme was to build a railroad from the Mississippi River to the + Pacific Ocean on the proceeds of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions + of dollars stock as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses + and promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker, Secretary of + the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas Butler King, of Georgia, + late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my recent superior; Secretary, Samuel + Jaudon, late Cashier of the United States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the + Company, received me at dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance + with Thomas Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages.</p> + + <p>This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J. Walker was + to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the secretary, was to display + his financial ability in New York and the Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of + Cincinnati, was agent for the Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the + State of Texas, and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio + Grande and the Colorado.</p> + + <p>I told them all I knew about the Territory,—and a great deal more,—and + enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company by an + exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral resources. They + inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration. I replied that I would start + with a hundred thousand dollars if there was a million behind it.</p> + + <p>A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and shares sold at + an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was appointed president, and I was + appointed "manager and commandant." The office was located in Cincinnati, for the + convenience of General Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. + William Wrightson was appointed secretary.</p> + + <p>As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this arduous + undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San Antonio, Texas, and I + proceeded there to complete the outfit.</p> + + <p>San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time. Wagons, + ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men could be found in + Texas willing to go anywhere.</p> + + <p>At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me to go to + New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners, and as he was going to + Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels, and received the benefit of his + introduction. There were plenty of educated German miners about New Bramfels, working + on farms and selling lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company + was made up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil.</p> + + <p>We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and took the + road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762 miles by the itinerary. + The plains of Texas were covered with verdure and flowers, and the mocking birds made + the night march a serenade.</p> + + <p>I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military officers of the + frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first military post on the road was Fort + Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful location. The post was at that time under the + command of the famous John Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California.</p> + + <p>Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks; and as he + was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept an invitation to + dinner.</p> + + <p>After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers, but Magruder + said:—</p> + + <p>"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest."</p> + + <p>I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the regulations of + the Army."</p> + + <p>"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay here + three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an escort with you to + overtake it."</p> + + <p>So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a prisoner of war + more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with abundant provisions, if they only + had French cooks.</p> + + <p>After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we arrived on + the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth of July. El Paso at + this time was enjoying an era of commercial prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. + Silver flowed in in a stream.</p> + + <p>After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio Grande at Fort + Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping the command on the + green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with Doctor Steck and his interpreter made + a visit to the Apaches in their stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre.</p> + + <p>There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which afforded + shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in camp,—physically, fine + looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day was long. The agent distributed two + wagon loads of corn, from which they made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink.</p> + + <p>Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico and + selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved themselves + expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of the trees, as they are + economists in ammunition if nothing else.</p> + + <p>Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the old + triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches that I was "a + mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock nor kill any of my men.</p> + + <p>The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would not molest + us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico."</p> + + <p>On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it.</p> + + <p>I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely among the + chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many years afterwards an + Apache girl told me they could have killed me often from ambush, but they remembered + the treaty and would not do it. I have generally found the Indians willing to keep + faith with the whites, if the whites will keep faith with them.</p> + + <p>After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua Mountains, and + camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon, which empties into the Gila + River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and + about a hundred came thundering down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted + and well armed. Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and + many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the spoil of + Mexican foray.</p> + + <p>A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got out, and + everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking man named Alessandro, + and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a parley was called when they reached + the rope.</p> + + <p>When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and trade; + that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we were not traders, + and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at this, and made some + demonstrations against the rope. I told the interpreter to say that I would shoot the + first man that crossed the rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they + thought better of it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck + off for their homes in the north.</p> + + <p>I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered very brave; + but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in coming forward, and I cried + out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you come out?"</p> + + <p>He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out with a + rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German pipe in his + mouth.</p> + + <p>The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high mountains and + wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and camped at the old Mission Church + of San Xavier del Bac.</p> + + <p>Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac means water) + is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This is the most ancient + pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish history in the narrative of + Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition of Coronado in search of gold stopped here + awhile, and washed some gold from the sands of the Cañon del Oro on sheep + skins. It is well known that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this + experience, remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,—Jason in + Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever since, without + profound knowledge of its origin.</p> + + <p>The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last of August + the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated.</p> + + <p>As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to graze in + charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two weeks' furlough was + given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their sins, and get acquainted with the + Mexican señoritas, who flocked there in great numbers from the adjoining State + of Sonora.</p> + + <p>Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few interruptions by + violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused by a quarrel among some + Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver. There were not more than a dozen + Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when we arrived, and they were not Methodist + preachers. The town has grown with the country, and now contains a population of + nearly ten thousand people, of many shades of color and many nationalities.</p> + + <p>The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for the + company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense, and fortunately + without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the scene of our future operations, + and the exploration and settlement of a territory of considerably over a hundred + thousand square miles was before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It + would not be prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had + hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place for storage + and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a headquarters. We had some + hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons, ambulances, arms, provisions, + merchandise, mining, material,—and moreover, what we considered of inestimable + value, the future,—in our keeping, and a proper location was a grave + consideration.</p> + + <p>The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita Mountains on + the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as the Arno, flowing from + the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which had been formerly occupied and + cultivated. The presidio was called Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just + evacuated the presidio of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of + preservation, minus the doors and windows, which they hauled away.</p> + + <p>The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church of San + Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino real) to Sonora and + Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out + for the presidio of Tubac to establish our headquarters and future home.</p> + + <p>There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins of + Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters, repaired the corrals, + and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as possible.</p> + + <p>The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched men to the + adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws, and soon had lumber for + doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and the primitive furniture necessary for + housekeeping. The quarters could accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals + were ample for the animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on + the north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The beautiful + Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel and grass were abundant + in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was not more than a hundred leagues to + Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of California, where European merchandise could be + obtained. There were no frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder + commerce.</p> + + <p>In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at Tubac + comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and were ready to begin + the exploration of the country for mines. When you look at the Santa Rita Mountains + from Tubac, it seems a formidable undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. + Nevertheless, we began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and + enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously worked by the + Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of arrastres and smelters. Gold + could be washed on the mountain sides, and silver veins could be traced by the + discolored grass.</p> + + <p>As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived in Tubac, + Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great numbers to work, and + skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen to twenty-five dollars a month and + rations. Sonora furnished flour, beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at + moderate prices.</p> + + <p>A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of seeking + employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said they would work for + $10 a day and board; that they got that in California, and would never work for less. + After staying a few days at the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, + showing their gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at + Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a chance." + They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white trash.</p> + + <p>Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac had little + holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate their farms, in many cases + accompanied by their families.</p> + + <p>By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a thousand + souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in the vicinity of Tubac. + We had no law but love, and no occupation but labor. No government, no taxes, no + public debt, no politics. It was a community in a perfect state of nature. As + "syndic" under New Mexico, I opened a book of records, performed the marriage + ceremony, baptized children, and granted divorces.</p> + + <p>Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its + señoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male population + from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the equilibrium of population, till + in some pueblos the disproportion was as great as a dozen females to one male; and in + the genial climate of Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. + Consequently the señoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the + Santa Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling provisions + they came in state,—others came on the hurricane deck of burros, and many came + on foot. All were provided for.</p> + + <p>The Mexican señoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier + population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them were good + Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and the American women "Las + Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a Mexican woman despises it is a red + petticoat. They are exceedingly dainty in their underclothing,—wear the finest + linen they can afford; and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men + of northern Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect.</p> + + <p>This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of frontier + society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless appendages in camp. They + could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash clothes, sew, dance, and + sing,—moreover, they were expert at cards, and divested many a miner of his + week's wages over a game of monte.</p> + + <p>As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally authorized + to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant divorces, execute + criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions of the ancient El Cadi. The + records of this primitive period are on file in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo + of Tucson, Pima County.</p> + + <p>Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as the priest + there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of Tubac tied the knot + gratis, and gave them a treat besides.</p> + + <p>I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or two, and + had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according to gender, and began + to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent down Father Mashboef, (Vicar + Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after the spiritual condition of the Arizona + people.</p> + + <p>It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix up a + confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at breakfast; but + worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me with such affection, went + away with their reybosas over their heads without even a friendly salutation.</p> + + <p>It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban of the + Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by the arm, (a man + always takes you by the arm when he has anything unpleasant to say,) and + said:—</p> + + <p>"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these people; + but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes of God."</p> + + <p>I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be lifted. + The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and swearing, and said they + thought they were entitled to all the rights of matrimony.</p> + + <p>My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and had given + them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a Mexican dollar; and had + given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still, although the Pope of Rome was beyond + the jurisdiction of even the Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a + restoration of happiness.</p> + + <p>At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the Church to the + marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas with holy water, and it + cost the company about $700 to rectify the matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz.</p> + + <p>An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never be + lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the opening of mines + which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land which lay fallow, the + employment of labor which was idle, and the development of a new country were + meritorious undertakings.</p> + + <p>The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market afforded, + besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks, and other game, and we + obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of French wines for Sunday dinners and + the celebration of feast days.</p> + + <p>It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases commerce. We had + scarcely commenced to make silver bars—"current with the merchant"—when + the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of primitive commerce. Pack trains + arrived from Mexico, loaded with all kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase + everything they brought, whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take + in exchange silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American + merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our business. We were + essentially free traders.</p> + + <p>The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost enough to + purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any country of the world, so + near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in by mountains teeming with minerals. The + natural elements of prosperity seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our + primitive simplicity we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and + reduce them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the + productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the country + independent of foreign resources. The result will show the success or failure of this + Utopian scheme.</p> + + <p>The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of distributing + supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong coffee the first thing in the + morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at noon, and supper at sunset.</p> + + <p>Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from the + mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the afternoon. One Sunday + we had a fat wild turkey weighing about twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers + asked permission to assist in the <i>cocina</i>. It was done to a charm, and stuffed + with pine nuts, which gave it a fine flavor.</p> + + <p>As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of San Jose de + Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River, afforded exercise and + diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday afternoon. The old mission was + rapidly going to ruin, but the records showed that it formerly supported a population + of 3,500 people, from cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, + and working the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently + again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the gardens of + the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in a perfect state of + preservation.</p> + + <p>The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country of oases + and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the governing machine as the + sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In + countries requiring irrigation the communal system of distributing water has been + found to produce the greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government + granting water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against + nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question will soon + come up whether the government has any more right to sell the water than the air.</p> + + <p>In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared at Tubac, + and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the industry of a German + gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon produced all vegetables, melons, etc., + that we required, and many a weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the + hospitalities of Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had + more than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for entertainment, + horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road. Hospitality is a savage virtue, and + disappears with civilization.</p> + + <p>As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory yield, we + turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River, and soon struck a vein + of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded from the grass roots seven thousand + dollars a ton. This mine was named in honor of the president of the company, + "Heintzelman," which in German mining lore is also the name of the genius who + presides over mines.</p> + + <p>The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was shipped, + via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132 cents per ounce for + the Asiatic market.</p> + + <p>Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required some more + convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of "boletas." Engravings + were made in New York, and paper money printed on pasteboard about two inches by + three in small denominations, twelve and one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty + cents, one dollar, five dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the + illiterate could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig; + twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse; five dollars, + a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the hands were paid off every + Saturday, and they were currency at the stores, and among the merchants of the + country and in Mexico. When a run of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could + have them redeemed in silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive + system of greenbacks worked very well,—everybody holding boletas was interested + in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on the prosperity + of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the bank of Nature, and industry + puts the money in circulation, to the benefit of mankind.</p> + + <p>In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons arrived in + the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a military post, and for the + protection of the infant settlements. The officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, + and Captain Ewell. The first military post was established at Calaveras, and the + arrival of the officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz.</p> + + <p>Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a citizens' train of + wagons laden with supplies,—twelve wagons of twelve mules each,—belonging + to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was encamped at Tubac I inquired the + price of freight, and learned it was fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I + inquired what he would charge to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul + them from the Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half + cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,—a ton to the + wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long haul."</p> + + <p>Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to different + cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its first reputation as a + producer of minerals. The average yield in silver was not enormous, as the ores + contained a great deal of copper, but the silver yield was about fifteen hundred + dollars to the ton.</p> + + <p>In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La Aribac," or + Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a beautiful valley encompassed + by mountains, and containing only a few leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine + Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802, and title obtained from the Spanish government. The + ownership and occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who + obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and maintained + continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the company for a valuable + consideration.</p> + + <p>The validity of the title has been denied by the United States, notwithstanding + the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before the United States Land + Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the United States Supreme Court, with a fair + prospect of the ultimate loss of the property. The company conveyed the property with + all mines and claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,—a + woful heritage.</p> + + <p>In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz valley. + The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive methods of reduction. + The farmers were planting with every prospect of a good crop. Emigrants were coming + into the country and taking up farms. Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty + Dollar or its representative.</p> + + <p>The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war, going on in + Sonora between two factions for the control of the State government. Gaudara was the + actual governor, and had been so for many years, during which time he had accumulated + a handsome fortune in lands, mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He + was a sedate and dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite + and hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without property or + position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods. Consequently a revolution was + commenced to obtain control of the governorship of the State; and just the same as + when King David sought refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who + were refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined Pesquiera to + rob Guadara. This is all there was,—or ever is, to Mexican revolutions.</p> + + <p>On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora to + California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila descent, married + to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with a large family of girls and + boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and + Montgomery streets, where there was the usual sign,—</p> + + <p class="center">SE COMPRA ORO<br /> + Up Stairs</p> + + <p>The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty and graces + of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and married well.</p> + + <p>As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have caused many + eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should not take part in the + little revolution going on in their native State (Sonora). Their husbands could then + become eminent men, annex the State of Sonora to the United States, and become + governors and senators. It was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, + and their husbands were eminently deserving,—in fact, their husbands were + already the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had been a + prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others had occupied high + position in Federal and State service, and were highly respected among their fellow + citizens. In this state of affairs the eldest brother,—Augustine, was + despatched to Sonora to see what arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the + Americans would come from California and help him oust Gaudara.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was necessary; the + substance of which was that the Americans should come with five hundred men, well + armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and establishing himself as governor of + Sonora. After that the Americans could name whatever they wanted in money or + political offices, even to the annexation of the State, which was at that time + semi-independent of Mexico.</p> + + <p>Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, returned to + California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans immediately began to drum + up for recruits; but the prosperity of California was so great that but a few could + be persuaded to leave a certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California + actually started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of recruits + by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show that they crossed the + river with only forty-two men and a boy.</p> + + <p>With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one hundred and + thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line of Mexico at the Sonoita + (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream of water struggling for existence in + the sands. At the Sonoita the invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, + forwarded through Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State + of Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and they paid no + attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of Mexico with arms and in + hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of Altar they diverged from the main + road to the west, and took the road to Caborca.</p> + + <p>The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have expected + reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to a little port called + Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as it may, no reinforcements ever + came: and this little handful of Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the + little town of Caborca without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of + the States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in + California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in such + position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and families in California, + and all of them had warm friends there.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent language + of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to exterminate the invaders and to + preserve their homes. The roads fairly swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns + carried lances, those who had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by + Mexicans, and the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on + the east side of the plaza.</p> + + <p>This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into the + church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and surrendered. My God! had + they lost their senses? These forty-two American gentlemen, who had left their wives, + children, and friends in California a month or two before under a contract with + Pesquiera were butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man + raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter.</p> + + <p>They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could have + turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old friends and + acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom over the country.</p> + + <p>There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I know it to + be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were read, Gabilonda, second + in command, swore he would have nothing to do with it, and mounting his horse swung + the little boy Evans behind him and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to + Guaymas, from where he was afterwards sent to California.</p> + + <p>It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the hogs to eat, + but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug and gave them Christian + interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of the leaders, but a detachment came + up the Gila River to Tucson and Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise + twenty-five or thirty men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on + the Santa Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I + remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in Mexican + revolutions. He said,—</p> + + <p>"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross the Mexican + line."</p> + + <p>I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly demoralized, + wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into a hospital for their + relief, with such accommodations as could be afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of + the adage that "dead men tell no tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in + triumph to Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of the + days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera with the Mexican + government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb Expedition, one of the most + ill-fated and melancholy of any in the bloody annals of Mexico.</p> + + <p>The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the Mexican + government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the line, and business of + all kinds was paralyzed.</p> + + <p>Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los Angeles, with + only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a rest.</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="III" name="III"></a> + + <h2>III</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>War-Time in Arizona</h3> + + <p>The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from California, + generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of death to fall on the + boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had been massacred at Caborca, and many + Mexicans had been killed. The abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe + over the Mexican boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the + United States.</p> + + <p>Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the massacre, + came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although he was perfectly + innocent of any crime,—on the contrary, deserved credit for his humanity in + rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial + organized by Pesquiera, the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green + old age as Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and + respected.</p> + + <p>When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857, the + country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines were put in + operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico. Christmas week the usual + festival was given at Arivaca, and all the neighbors within a hundred miles + invited.</p> + + <p>In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and the sad + events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as possible. The + government had subsidized an overland mail service at nearly a million a year, called + the Butterfield line, with daily mails from St. Louis to San Francisco, running + through Arizona. The mail service of the West has done a great deal to build up the + country; and population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its + future prosperity.</p> + + <p>General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the mines. + Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president of the company, as + he had contributed about two hundred and fifty thousand dollars in money and arms to + its resources, with the intention of enlisting as much capital as might be required + from New England. Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled + overland from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,—1350 miles.</p> + + <p>The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the contrary, passed + within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into Mexico on their forays rather + than break their treaty with the Americans. They could have easily carried off our + stock by killing the few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from + doing so from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law + among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot.</p> + + <p>In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox, + established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one hundred and + fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the company bought all they + could saw. They built a house and corral on the south side of the Santa Cruz River, + on the road from Tucson to Tubac, called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very + convenient stopping place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty + Mexicans rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches, and + were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the Babaquivera plain, + intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans + wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut off), and rescue the animals, offering to + divide them with us for our assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, + and how faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa, where + the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which they accepted, as + they were new in the country and needed horses and mules. The lumbermen joined the + Mexicans, and as they could easily discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of + dust, succeeded in forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached + the river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind.</p> + + <p>The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with the + lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their adventure the + lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp at the Canoa on the Santa + Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and whisky.</p> + + <p>About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual quiet + Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously into the plaza, + crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he had recovered sufficiently to + talk, we learned that the Apaches had made an attack on Canoa, and killed all the + settlers.</p> + + <p>It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we could + only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start until early next + morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos Apaches."</p> + + <p>When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as if it had + been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were smashed, and the house a + smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying around dead, and three of them had been + thrown into the well, head foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the + burnt houses.</p> + + <p>As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been fully eighty + Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280 head of animals from the + Canoa and the adjoining ranches.</p> + + <p>There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort Buchanan. The + commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in pursuit, but the Apaches + were in their strongholds long before the dragoons saddled their horses.</p> + + <p>The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very skillful in + forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open field. Their horsemanship + is far superior to American troops, who are for the most part foreigners, and + exceedingly awkward.</p> + + <p>The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far more + foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous.</p> + + <p>In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to the + presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and a fire. Whether + he had been run out of California by the Vigilance Committee, as many of our "guests" + had been, or was escaping legitimate justice, was not in question; the imperative + cravings of the stomach admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to + dinner, and provided him with all the comforts of home.</p> + + <p>At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the fire; to which + I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar the door between us.</p> + + <p>The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised him to + push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably get some + employment.</p> + + <p>He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary partnership + with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the country at that time.</p> + + <p>She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent, as he had a + red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably formed the only matrimonial + tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman. In the course of time John Ward got a + hay contract, a wagon, and a few yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle + Sam's expense. Fort Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of + dragoons. The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a + step-ladder.</p> + + <p>In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son Micky Free + until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that he could not find his + oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to Major Stein, the commanding officer, + that the Apaches had stolen his oxen and carried off the woman's boy.</p> + + <p>Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill in + Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe, and ordered out + a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches + and recover Micky Free and the oxen. Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a + Kentuckian, a West Pointer, and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a + fool; although his uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very + eminent clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family from + Bascomb of the Confederate X roads.</p> + + <p>Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding in Sonora, + into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The Apaches were summoned + to camp <i>under a white flag</i>; and feeling perfectly innocent of having committed + a crime against the Americans, fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant + Bascomb and his boys in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen + the oxen; and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant + was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed.</p> + + <p>Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect Wood) + managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his bonds, and escape. He + was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked a terrible vengeance for the + treachery of American troops to the Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in + the Chiricahua Mountains, 1874.</p> + + <p>The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years, and has + scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men, women, and children, + killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment to the settlement of Arizona cannot + be computed. The cost of the war against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a + string of yokes of oxen reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his + woman's son, Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and + about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that profession. I am on + very friendly terms with him and all his family, and would not write a word in + derogation of his character, or of his step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate + history.</p> + + <p>The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of unsavory + immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas and Arkansas, + rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days. Gambling has been an + industrial pursuit since the first settlement of the country, and the saloon business + flourishes with the prosperity of the times. Strange to say, amidst this + heterogeneous population there has never been a vigilance committee.</p> + + <p>The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve, with + occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of 1861, when the + reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in the Arizona mountains. A + newspaper had been started by the company at Tubac, called <i>The Arizonian</i>. Our + mail came overland by Butterfield coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but + at last we waited for "the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was + started out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of the + West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the line and withdraw + the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in Stein's Pass, killed all of the + men, and captured the gold.</p> + + <p>In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the mines were + yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were working for good wages, + which were paid punctually every Saturday afternoon.</p> + + <p>One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and handed me a note + from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order from the commanding officer of + the Military Department:—</p> + + <center> + <blockquote> + <p class="right">Santa Fe, June, 1861,</p> + + <p class="right">Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:—</p> + + <p>On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy your Post; burn your + Commissary and Quartermasters' stores, and everything between the Colorado and + Rio Grande that will feed an army.</p> + + <p>March out with your guns loaded, and do not permit any citizen within fifteen + miles of your lines.</p> + + <p class="right">(Signed) Major General Lynde</p> + </blockquote> + + <p>A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid before them. + The wisest said we could not hold the country after the troops abandoned + it,—that the Apaches would come down upon us by the hundred, and the Mexicans + would cut our throats. It was concluded to reduce the ore we had mined, which was + yielding about a thousand dollars a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the + worst.</p> + + <p>About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried off out of + the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules.</p> + + <p>The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the skill of + many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of adobe, with a gate or + bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice for the Apaches to saw an + entrance through an adobe wall with their horsehair ropes (cabrestas).</p> + + <p>The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus poles + (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches tried their rope + saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up, and a log chain wound around + each bar and locked to the post; but they removed the bars quietly by wrapping + their scrapes around the chain, to prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The + steam engine was running day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the + rounds of the place every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful + and secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their presence on + the place was observed,—not even by the watchdogs, which generally have a + keen scent for Indians.</p> + + <p>At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the entire + herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were sleeping under a porch + within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as soon as possible; but the pursuers + soon ran into an ambuscade prepared by the retreating Apaches, when three were + killed and two wounded. The rest returned without recovering any of the stock.</p> + + <p>This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not be + replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or provisions; + only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be kept in stables and fed on + grain.</p> + + <p>About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining + Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be abandoned.</p> + + <p>At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel + furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand dollars worth + of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The Apaches, to the number of + nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and compelled its evacuation. The plunder and + destruction of property was complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and + nothing to sleep on but the ground.</p> + + <p>The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where the few + people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they remained there in a + miserable condition until the troops arrived from California under General James A. + Carlton, United States Army, commonly called "Carlton's Column."</p> + + <p>General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order declaring + martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These troops garrisoned the + country between the rivers, and drove out the rebel troops, who had come in from + Texas under the Confederate government.</p> + + <p>After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed + Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring that the + American government was broken up, and they had come to take their country back + again. Even the few Americans left in the country were not at peace among + themselves,—the chances were that if you met in the road it was to draw arms, + and declare whether you were for the North or the South.</p> + + <p>The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they were + asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico. The smoke of + burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa Cruz valley, where the + troops were in retreat, destroying everything before and behind them. The + government of the United States abandoned the first settlers of Arizona to the + merciless Apaches. It was impossible to remain in the country and continue the + business without animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to + pack our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike out + across the deserts for California.</p> + + <p>With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and some + friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the fourth of July, + where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another journey took us across the + Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we went by steamer to San Francisco, and + thence via Panama to New York.</p> + + <p>It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in ruins, + but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this time in machinery, + materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc., amounted to considerably over + a million dollars, but the greatest blow was the destruction of our + hopes,—not so much of making money as of making a country. Of all the + lonesome sounds that I remember (and it seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the + crowing of cocks on the deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that + they were abandoned.</p> + + <p>We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it was + supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of the journey by + day and standing guard all night was trying on the strongest constitution in the + hot summer month of June.</p> + + <p>An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the deserts to + California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book, "Across America and + Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the harrowing scenes preceding the + abandonment of the country are only briefly stated.</p> + + <p>The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the change of + venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to my credit from the + silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88 Wall Street, and I put it up + as margin on gold at $132 and sold for $250.</p> + + <p>After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found my old + friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically called "The Defenses + of Washington." The capital of the nation was beleaguered!</p> + + <p>The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years.</p> + + <p>The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and Lower + California, under direction of Captain—afterwards General—Stone, an + officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had first become + acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia Barracks, in California, + and met him the last time when he was chief of staff to the Khedive of Egypt at + Grand Cairo, on the Nile.</p> + + <p>Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence of + Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by force of + arms.</p> + + <p>The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been furnished + by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them through their + correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had been contributed by the + entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon, as the French were desirous of + getting a foothold in Mexico. The expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party + was considered an affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken + under a valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were not + satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in the enterprise. + The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land location finally caused the + intervention of the French government.</p> + + <p>It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation of Vera + Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish soon withdrew, and + left the French to pull their own chestnut out of the fire.</p> + + <p>The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we were in the + midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity to set up Maximilian + of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by French forces under Bazaine.</p> + + <p>No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized with + the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them substantial aid + if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to New York as a + warning,—and the French had had enough of Russians on their track.</p> + + <p>It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the Maximilian + Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the survey and location of + the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and recognized as a public debt of the + Empire, and such will be found a matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no + doubt, keep them as companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The + Grant has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs, in + equity, the original million dollars.</p> + + <p>The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American boundary line, + and many Mexicans took refuge in the United States,—among them Pesquiera, the + governor of Sonora. His camp was at the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa + Cruz Valley and his wife is buried there.</p> + + <p>President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during the reign + of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled to furnish him with a + hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession of Lower California. The + circumstances were recently related for the Examiner of San Francisco, by + Señor Romero, the Mexican minister in Washington.</p> + + <p>During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many Americans + flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with the government of the + Confederate States, and consequently with the occupation of Mexico.</p> + + <p>The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the + Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora, but I never + believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted a title of + nobility.</p> + + <p>The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as well as + the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire and the French + Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire of the People grows + stronger every year.</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <a id="IV" name="IV"></a> + + <h2>IV</h2> + <br /> + + + <h3>Arizona a Territory at Last</h3> + + <p>When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me on a call + at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a territorial government + for Arizona.</p> + + <p>President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally said, + "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that."</p> + + <p>I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the Committee + on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona.</p> + + <p>The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,—it is + just like hell—all it lacks is water and good society."</p> + + <p>He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss the + subject.</p> + + <p>Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the House, and + readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial government. In a few days + President Lincoln appointed an evening, to hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona + from 8 to 12. The chairmen of the committees on Territories attended, and General + Heintzelman and some other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical + data, some specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and + some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a territorial + government for Arizona was agreed upon.</p> + + <p>The country was at that time under martial law,—General Carlton. If any + system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law. Whatever may be + the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts, they form the only means + civilized society has yet devised for the settlement of disputes. It is true that a + territorial form of government was never contemplated by the framers of the + Constitution, as no provision was made for such a form of government; but this + omission is covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power + to "provide for the general welfare."</p> + + <p>The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An Act to + provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of time, no doubt, + all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the territorial form of + government is not provided for as a permanency by the Constitution, and is moreover + anomalous in the American system. The people residing in the Territories are to a + considerable extent disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged + American citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to + their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will be forced + by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights of sovereign + States.</p> + + <p>The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a bill + dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and eleventh degree of + longitude west; and providing for the organization of "The Territory of Arizona" + from the western half. The bill soon became an Act of Congress, and was approved by + President Lincoln on the twenty-third of February, 1863.</p> + + <p>The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an oyster + supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I fortified myself + with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is to become of me?"</p> + + <p>They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said:</p> + + <p>"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with them."</p> + + <p>So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the office + was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth about thirty-three + cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona.</p> + + <p>Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues across the + plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach at Kansas City, and + crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by river steamer to San Francisco. + The Indian goods had been shipped to Yuma.</p> + + <p>In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just returned from + Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at my expense. He + afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings in the Apache Country," + published by Harpers.</p> + + <p>Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky, called upon + me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of priests down to Arizona, + to restore the service among the Indians at the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac + on the Santa Cruz, to which I assented with great pleasure.</p> + + <p>After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my orders + from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm Barracks for an escort + of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and prepared for the journey across the + Colorado Desert.</p> + + <p>We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week regaled the + Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their first presents from + Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila + River some two hundred miles to the Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima + Indians, gave a warm welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods.</p> + + <p>At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate the mass, + and tell the Indians something about God,—remembering my own failure in + teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians assembled, and Father + Bosco through my interpreter preached the first sermon the Pima Indians ever + heard.</p> + + <p>At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you make me + preach to these savages?—they squat on the ground, and laugh at me like + monkeys."</p> + + <p>The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission of San + Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos, a christianized + branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were my old friends and + acquaintances, and received the priests with fireworks and illuminations. They knew + of our coming, and had swept the church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar + with mistletoe.</p> + + <p>The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,----</p> + <br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">For the Jesuits told them long + ago</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">As sure as the water continued to + flow,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">The sun to shine, and the grass to + grow,</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 2em; font-size: 14pt;">They would come again to the + Papago.</span><br /> + <br /> + + <p>I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over the goods + intended for the Papagos for distribution at their convenience.</p> + + <p>I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had lived there + all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing his clothes. As nails + were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill held together by rawhides, and + was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In the meantime he had taken up with a Papago + girl, to the scandal of the tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or + leave. He appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my + sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the mill.</p> + + <p>In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona, mostly from + the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on the Hassayamp. Old + Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a trapper and pioneer since 1836. + His name is carved on the walls of the Casa Grande with that date.</p> + + <p>The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be established + on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the settlers in peace when + they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made + a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried off nearly all the stock.</p> + + <p>King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man among the + settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a company to go after the + Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means "fool.")</p> + + <p>There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly Maricopas. + They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted principally of panole and + jerkey.</p> + + <p>They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way between + Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The tanks there are + surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the country in the vicinity is + covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had vomited the refuse of the subterranean + world to disfigure nature.</p> + + <p>The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant. Delshay, + the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky. The Americans had + neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he was quite put out about it, but + partook of panole and jerked beef.</p> + + <p>The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made demands + which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five Indians at the + council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As the Indians became more + hostile the situation became more serious, and it was evident to the Americans that + they were surrounded, and in imminent danger of massacre.</p> + + <p>Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at once that + either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so he said: "Boys, we + have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick out your Indian, and I will + shoot the chief for a signal."</p> + + <p>The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded. The only + American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my Indian agent at the + Pima villages.</p> + + <p>Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the Indian + in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and transfixed him. + They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of death.</p> + + <p>The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack mule, + carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with Christian services at + the foot of an aspen tree.</p> + + <p>The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps.</p> + + <p>After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into the Pima + villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me, took down the + account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans engaged in the + expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his stenography, he asked one + of the men if he had any Indian relics. The man replied, "Yes, I have got some + jerked years," and he presented Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on + buckskin.</p> + + <p>I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among the + Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a company of Pimas + and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received arms and ammunition from the + government, and I had uniforms and swords enough for the officers. They soon + learned to drill, and already knew how to shoot.</p> + + <p>The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set out all + the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when we turned east by + Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail.</p> + + <p>The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Cañon has never + been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the junction of the + Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches.</p> + + <p>The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,—twenty-four Americans and + twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as the number + of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation.</p> + + <p>There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on the Salt + River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with the Gila. We camped at + the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed Salt River at the peak about + Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima villages, glad enough to get to that haven of + rest. It was 100 miles to Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any + provisions between the two places.</p> + + <p>There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time, except for + people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the golden harps of New + Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the government of the United States, + in school books; and perhaps had enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July + oration in youth; but these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no + government of any consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the + Democratic principle, not for protection but for revenue only.</p> + + <p>I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods without + regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody that came along in + need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I wound up the Indian service with + loss of about $5,000 out of my own pocket.</p> + + <p>At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens of gold + quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently called Vulture, and + wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't want to buy your mine, but I + will give you twenty-five dollars' worth of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will + go away and leave me alone."</p> + + <p>I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King of Spain + for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish grants in Texas, + California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest, even if the grant had been + made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by the Continental Congress.</p> + + <p>The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I know of + are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at Florence.</p> + + <p>The government of the United States can never recompense the people of Arizona + for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to make the plea that + a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not have conquered this tribe of + savages, if the will to do so had existed. Now, after forty years of devastation, + the government pays the Apaches one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in + goods to maintain a quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an + Apache outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the war-path, + which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A Century of Dishonor" + was a well written book, and contains many unpleasant truths.</p> + + <p>In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues in the + territorial government had crossed the plains, and established the capital at a + remote place in the northern mountains, which they called "Prescott," in honor of + the Mexican historian. Just as was supposed, they quarreled all the way across the + plains about who should be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had + never seen.</p> + + <p>Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that I had + already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes of the people. + The political machine had not then been organized, and the people had some say in + the elections.</p> + + <p>The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate to + Congress from Arizona.</p> + + <p>The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is evidenced + by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State or Territory in the + Union, <i>per capita</i>. The Capital was moved from town to town, as a political + factor in the election of delegates, but now rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River + Valley, where it will permanently remain, as no other place in the Territory can + ever rival Phoenix in the abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and + happiness of life. The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water + storage in reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile.</p> + + <p>At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now stands, + and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It had been occupied + some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated the land by irrigation, and + built houses and cities which have gone to ruin. The most diligent search has + developed but few evidences of the extent of their civilization. They had not + advanced very far, as they left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The + land in cultivation would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred + thousand souls.</p> + + <p>It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western country, to + desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in Congress.</p> + + <p>It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to + New York and Washington.</p> + + <p>I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman (Roscoe + Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very pompous way:</p> + + <p>"I observe you have drawn a front seat,—and as I presume you do not wish + to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the courtesy to exchange + seats with me."</p> + + <p>I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more + becoming to my station.</p> + + <p>In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my seat, + and said, "Poston, how is this?—your mileage is $7,200, and mine is only + $300."</p> + + <p>I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?"</p> + + <p>He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon."</p> + + <p>"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona—that equalizes + the mileage."</p> + + <p>He certified the account, and never said another word.</p> + + <p>The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made + $12,200;—but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and + presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the Territory for + which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe hardships endured, and + money was not spared to bring it to public notice on every suitable occasion.</p> + + <p>The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they are + considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having any vote nor in + any other way being recognized as equals. They were not obliged at that time to + serve on committees, nor expected to answer the roll-call. It was an easy berth for + an indolent man without ambition or avarice.</p> + + <p>The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The Civil War + had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the surface, and their + acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look over their photographs, now it + is like shuffling an old pack of cards which have been played out,—they have + nearly all gone to the Upper Chamber,—in this world or the next. Grow and + Holman are the only ones in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the + House, and treated me with the most distinguished consideration,—even to the + compliment of dining at my house,—which was unprecedented in his long public + career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my wife was a + Baptist.</p> + + <p>I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An + appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for the + construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona to become + self-supporting. This was the first instance in which irrigation was brought to the + notice of the government.</p> + + <p>President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my family lived + in the neighborhood where the President had been reared, my little girl made him a + satchel of corn shucks from the field where he had hoed corn barefooted in the + briars, thinking he might appreciate a souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I + escorted my daughter to the executive mansion to deliver my present. The President + received it graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors.</p> + + <p>The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution, and as + the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper giving their + adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill.</p> + <br /> + + + <p>The End.</p> + </center> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Building a State in Apache Land +by Charles D. 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Poston + +Release Date: February 22, 2004 [EBook #11226] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Garrett Alley and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team + + + + + +BUILDING A STATE IN APACHE LAND + + * * * * * + +From articles of Charles D. Poston in the _Overland Express_ + + * * * * * + +1894 + + + * * * * * + +I + + +How the Territory Was Acquired + + +In San Francisco in the early fifties, there was a house on the +northeast corner of Stockton and Washington, of considerable +architectural pretensions for the period, which was called the +"Government Boarding House." + +The cause of this appellation was that the California senators and their +families, a member of Congress and his wife, the United States marshal, +and several lesser dignitaries of the Federal Government, resided there. +In those early days private mansions were few; so the boarding-house +formed the only home of the Argonauts. + +After the ladies retired at night, the gentlemen usually assembled in +the spacious parlor, opened a bottle of Sazerac, and discussed politics. + +It was known to the senators that the American minister in Mexico had +been instructed to negotiate a new treaty with Mexico for the +acquisition of additional territory; not that there was a pressing +necessity for more land, but for reasons which will be briefly stated: + +1st. By the treaty of 1848, usually called Guadaloupe Hidalgo,[A] the +government of the United States had undertaken to protect the Mexicans +from the incursions of Indians within the United States boundary, and as +this proved to be an impractical undertaking, the damages on account of +failure began to assume alarming proportions, and the government of the +United States was naturally anxious to be released from the obligation. + +2. The Democratic party was in the plenitude of power, and the Southern +States were dominant in the Administration. It had been the dream of +this element for many years to construct a railroad from the Mississippi +River to the Pacific Ocean, and the additional territory was required +for "a pass". It was not known at that early day that railroads could be +constructed across the Rocky Mountains at a higher latitude, and it was +feared that snow and ice might interfere with traffic in the extremes of +winter. + +The State of Texas had already given encouragement to the construction +of such a railroad, by a liberal grant of land reaching as far west as +the Rio Grande, and it devolved upon the United States to provide the +means of getting on to the Pacific Ocean. The intervening country +belonged at that time to Mexico, and for the purpose of acquiring this +land the treaty was authorized. + +The condition of affairs in Mexico was favorable to a negotiation. Santa +Ana had usurped the powers of the government, and was absolute dictator +under the name of President. There was no Mexican Congress, and none had +been convened since they were herded together at the conclusion of the +Mexican War under protection of American troops. + +The condition of affairs in the United States was also extremely +favorable. The treasury was overflowing with California gold, under the +tariff of 1846 business was prosperous, the public debt small, and the +future unclouded. The American Minister to Mexico (General Gadsden of +South Carolina) was authorized to make several propositions:-- + +1st. Fifty Millions for a boundary line from the mouth of the Rio Grande +west to the Pacific Ocean. + +2nd. Twenty millions for a boundary line due east from the mouth of the +Yaqui River in the Gulf of Mexico to the Rio Grande. This was to include +the peninsula of Lower California. + +3rd. Ten millions for a boundary line to include the "railroad pass." + +A treaty was finally concluded for the smaller boundary, including the +"railroad pass," comprising the land between the Rio Grande and the +Colorado Rivers south of the Gila River, with the boundary line between +the United States and Mexico about the shape of a dog's hind leg. The +price paid for the new territory, which was temporarily called the +"Gadsden Purchase," was ten million dollars. + +A check for seven million was given by Mr. Guthrie, Secretary of the +Treasury, on the sub-treasury in New York, to the agent of Santa Ana; +but not a dollar of it ever reached the Mexican treasury, as Santa Ana +fled with the spoil. The remaining three millions were retained to pay +the "lobby" and confirm the treaty. The treaty was signed in Mexico on +the 23d day of December, 1853. + +Pending the negotiation of the treaty between the high contracting +parties, in the City of Mexico, the discussion of the subject grew +interesting at the Government Boarding-House in San Francisco, and a new +California was hoped for on the southern boundary. Old Spanish history +was ransacked for information from the voyages of Cortez in the Gulf of +California to the latest dates, and maps of the country were in great +demand. + +In the mean time an agent of the Iturbide family had arrived in San +Francisco with a "Mexican Grant." After the execution of the Emperor +Iturbide, the Congress of the Mexican Republic voted an indemnity to the +family of one million dollars; but on account of successive revolutions +this sum was never at the disposition of the Mexican treasury, and in +liquidation the Mexican government made the family a grant of land in +California, north of the Bay of San Francisco, but before the land could +be located, the Americans had "acquired" the country, and it was lost. +The heirs then made application to the Mexican government for another +grant of land in lieu of the California concession, and were granted +seven hundred leagues of land, to be located in Sonora, Sinaloa and +Lower California, in such parcels as they might select. + +Seven hundred leagues, or 3,000,800 acres, is a large tract of land in a +single body, and the attorney of the heirs considered it more convenient +to locate the land in small tracts of a league or two at a place. The +government of Mexico conceded whatever was required, and the grant was +made in all due form of Mexican law. + +In the discussion at the Government Boarding House in San Francisco it +was urged: That the Gulf of California was the Mediterranean of the +Pacific, and its waters full of pearls. That the Peninsula of Lower +California was copper-bound, interspersed with gold and minerals, +illustrated with old Spanish Missions, and fanned by the gentlest +breezes from the South Pacific. That the State of Sonora was one of the +richest of Mexico in silver, copper, gold, coal and other materials, +with highly productive agricultural valleys in the temperate zone. That +the country north of Sonora, called in the Spanish history "Arizunea" +(rocky country) was full of minerals, with fertile valleys washed by +numerous rivers, and covered by forests primeval. That the climate was +all that could be desired, from the level of the Gulf of California, to +an altitude of 15,000 feet in the mountains of the north. That the +Southern Pacific Railroad would soon be built through the new country, +and that a new State would be made as a connecting link between Texas +and California, with the usual quota of governors, senators, and public +officials. + +It was urged that the Iturbide Grant could be located so as to secure +the best sites for towns and cities in the new State, and the rest +distributed to settlers as an inducement for rapid colonization. The +enthusiasm increased with the glamour of Spanish history and the +generous flow of Sazerac. + +It must be admitted that an alluring prospect was opened for a young man +idling away his life over a custom house desk at three hundred dollars a +month; and in the enthusiasm of youth I undertook to make an exploration +of the new territory and to locate the Iturbide Grant. Who could have +foreseen that the attempted location of the Iturbide Grant would upset +the Mexican Republic and set up an empire in Mexico under French +protection? + +The first thing was to organize a "syndicate" in San Francisco, to +furnish funds for expenses and for the location of the Iturbide Grant. +This was easily accomplished through some enthusiastic French bankers. + +The ex-member of Congress was dispatched to the City of Mexico to secure +the approbation of the Mexican government, and I embarked at San +Francisco for Guaymas with a rather tough cargo of humanity. They were +not so bad as reckless; not ungovernable, but independent. + +The records of the United States consulate in Guaymas, if they are +preserved, show our registration as American citizens, fourteenth day of +January, 1854. The Mexican officials were polite, but not cordial. They +said Santa Ana had no right to sell the territory, as he was an usurper +and possessed no authority from the Mexican people. As international +tribunals had not then been established to determine these nice points +of international ethics, we did not stop to argue the question, but +pushed on to the newly acquired territory. + +We were very much disappointed at its meagerness, and especially that +the boundary did not include a port in the Gulf of California. A larger +territory could have been secured as easily, but the American Minister +had only one idea, and that was to secure "a pass" for a Southern +Pacific Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The +pass desired was the Guadaloupe Canon, used as a wagon road by General +Cook in his march from New Mexico to California in 1846, and strange to +say, not subsequently occupied as a railroad pass. + +The country south of the new boundary line is not of much consequence +to us: it belongs to Mexico. + +The country north of the Mexican boundary is the most marvelous in the +United States. After many years of arduous investigation and comparison +with all the other countries of the world, it is still nearly as great +an enigma as when first explored in 1854. The valleys are as fair as the +sun ever shone upon, with soil as productive as the valley of the Nile. +The rigors of winter never disturb agricultural pursuits in the open. In +fact, in the southern portion of the territory there is no winter. + +The valleys of Arizona are not surpassed for fertility and beauty by any +that I have seen, and that includes the whole world; but still they are +not occupied. Spanish and Mexican grants have hung over the country like +a cloud, and settlers could not be certain of a clear title. Moreover, +the Apaches have been a continual source of dread and danger. This state +of affairs is, however, now passing away. + +There were evidences of a recent Mexican occupation, with the ruins of +towns, missions, presidios, haciendas, and ranches. There were evidences +of former Spanish civilization, with extensive workings in mines. There +were evidences of a still more remote and mysterious civilization by an +aboriginal race, of which we know nothing, and can learn but little by +the vestiges they have left upon earth. + +They constructed houses, lived in communities, congregated in cities, +built fortresses, and cultivated the soil by irrigation. No evidence has +been found that they used any domestic animals, no relic of wheeled +vehicles, neither iron, steel, nor copper implements; and yet they built +houses more than five stories high, and cut joists with stone axes. + +How they transported timbers for houses is not known. The engineering +for their irrigating canals was as perfect as that practiced on the +Euphrates, the Ganges, or the Nile. The ruins of the great houses (casas +grandes) are precisely with the cardinal points. + +Near Florence, on the Gila, is beyond all doubt the oldest and most +unique edifice in the United States. Just when and how it was built +baffles human curiosity. Whether it was erected for a temple, a palace, +or a town hall, cannot be ascertained. The settlement or city +surrounding the ruin must have occupied a radius of quite ten miles, +judging from the ruins and pieces of broken pottery within that space. +An irrigating canal formerly ran from the Gila River to the city or +settlement, for domestic uses and for irrigation. + +The Pima Indians have lived in their villages on the Gila River time +immemorial, at least they have no tradition of the time of their coming. +Their tribal organization has many features worthy imitation by more +civilized people. The government rests with a hereditary chief and a +council of sages. The rights of property are protected, as far as they +have any individual property, which is small, as they are in fact +communists. The water from the Gila River to irrigate their lands is +obtained by canals constructed by the common labor of the tribe. + +In my intercourse with these Indians for many years they frequently +asked questions which would puzzle, the most profound philosopher to +answer. For instance, they inquired, "Who made the world and everything +therein?" + +I replied, "God." + +"Where does he live?" + +"In the sky." + +"What does he sit on?" + +In their domestic relations they have a system thousands of years older +than the Edmunds Act, which works to suit them, and fills the +requirements of satisfied nationalities. The old men said the marriage +system had given them more trouble than anything else, and they finally +abandoned all laws to the laws of nature. The young people were allowed +to mate by natural selection, and if they were not satisfied they could +"swap." + +In after years, when I was Superintendent of Indian Affairs, I selected +a stalwart Pima named Luis, who was proud of his acquirements in the +English language, and gave him a uniform, sword, and epaulettes about +the size of a saucer, to stand guard in front of my quarters. + +One day I came out and found Luis walking with an ununiformed Pima, with +their arms around each other's waists, according to their custom. I +inquired, "Luis, who is that?" + +"That is my brother-in-law." + +"Did you marry his sister?" + +"No." + +"Did he marry your sister?" + +"No." + +"Then how is he your brother-in-law?" + +"We swapped wives." + +Among the Pimas there is no incentive to avarice, and the accumulation +of large personal fortunes. When a Pima dies, most of his personal +property, that is, house and household belongings, which he had used +during life, is committed to the flames as a sanitary measure, and +whatever he may have left of personal property is divided among the +tribe. + +The dead are buried in the ground in silence, and you can never get the +Pimas to pronounce the name of a dead man. The Pimas have many customs +resembling the Jews, especially the periodical seclusion of women. + +The Apaches have robbed them time immemorial, and they in turn make +frequent campaigns against the Apaches. When they return from such a +campaign, if they have shed blood they paint their faces black, and +seclude themselves from the women. If they have not shed blood they +paint their faces white, and enter the joys of matrimony. + +The Pima handiwork in earthenware, horsehair, bridle reins, ropes, and +domestic utensils, is remarkably ingenious. They formerly cultivated +cotton and manufactured cotton cloth of a very strong quality. The men +understood spinning and weaving, and passed the winter in this +industrial pursuit. + +Their subsistence is wheat, corn, melons, pumpkins, vegetables, and the +wild fruits. They have herds of cattle, plenty of horses, and great +quantities of poultry. + +The Americans are indebted to the Pima Indians for provisions furnished +the California emigration, and for supplies for the early overland +stages, besides their faithful and unwavering friendship. + +The habitations of these prehistoric people form the most unique of all +the anomalous dwellings of Arizona, and a more minute investigation than +has hitherto been made will show the earliest habitations of man. There +are similar edifices in Egypt and India, but they are mostly temples. +These Arizona cliff dwellings are the only edifices of the kind that are +known to have been inhabited by mankind. They exist mostly in the +mountains in the northern portion of Arizona. A more ancient race, +still, lived in the excavations on the sides of the mountains, prepared, +no doubt, as a refuge against enemies. + +At the time of our first exploration (1854) there was virtually no +civilized population in the recently acquired territory. The old pueblo +of Tucson contained probably three hundred Mexicans, Indians, and half +breeds. The Pima Indians on the Gila River numbered from seven to ten +thousand, and were the only producing population. We could not explore +the country north of the Gila River, because of the Apaches, who then +numbered fully twenty thousand. For three hundred years they have killed +Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, which makes about the longest +continuous war on record. + +It was impossible to remain with a considerable number of men in a +country destitute of sustenance; so we followed the Gila River down to +its junction with the Colorado, and camped on the bank opposite Fort +Yuma, glad to be again in sight of the American flag. The commanding +officer, Major--afterwards General--Heintzelman, issued the regulation +allowance of emigrant rations, which were very grateful to men who had +been living for some time without what are usually called the +necessaries of life. Fort Yuma was established in 1851, to suppress the +Indians on the Colorado, and to protect emigrants at the crossing. + +It was apparent that the junction of the Gila and Colorado must be the +seaport of the new territory. + +The Colorado was supposed to be navigable nearly seven hundred miles, +and steamboats were already at Yuma transporting supplies for the post. +By the treaty with Mexico of 1848 the boundary line was established from +the mouth of the Rio Grande northwardly to the headwaters of the Gila +River, thence along the channel of the Gila River to its confluence with +the Colorado. The treaty then says: "From a point at the confluence of +the Gila and Colorado rivers, westerly to a point on the Pacific Ocean +six miles south of the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego." + +As the geography of the country was not well understood at the time, it +was not presumably known to the makers of the treaty that the boundary +line would include both banks of the Colorado River in the American +boundary, but it does. By a curious turn in the Colorado River, after +passing through the gorge between Fort Yuma and the opposite bank, the +boundary line of the United States includes both banks of the River to +the crossing at Pilot Knob, nearly nine miles. When the State of +California was organized in 1850, the constitution adopted the boundary +line of the State, and consequently assumed jurisdiction over the slip +of land on the bank of the Colorado opposite Fort Yuma. When Fort Yuma +was established, the commanding officer established a military +reservation, including both banks of the Colorado River at its junction +with the Gila. + +The boundary line between Mexico and the United States, under the treaty +of 1848, was run in 1850, and monuments erected on the southern bank of +the Colorado, to indicate the possession of the United States. + +While we were encamped on the banks of the Colorado River, in the hot +month of July, 1854, we concluded to locate a town-site on the slip of +land opposite Fort Yuma, and as we were well provided with treaties, +maps, surveying instruments, and stationery, there was not much +difficulty in making the location. The actual survey showed 936 acres +within the slip, and this was quite large enough for a "town-site." A +town-site is generally the first evidence of American civilization. + +After locating the town-site at Yuma there was nothing to do but to +cross the desert from the Colorado River to San Diego. We made the +journey on mules, with extraordinary discomfort. At San Diego we were as +much rejoiced as the followers of Xenophon to see the sea. + +The town-site was duly registered in San Diego, which could not have +been done if both banks of the Colorado just below its junction with the +Gila had not been recognized as being within the jurisdiction of the +State of California. The county of San Diego collected taxes there for +many years. After the organization of the Territory of Arizona in 1863, +Arizona assumed jurisdiction over the slip, and built a prison there. +Congress subsequently made a grant of land included in the slip to the +"Village of Yuma," so that it is a mere question of jurisdiction, not +involving the validity of any titles. The question of jurisdiction still +remains unsettled, as it requires both an Act of Congress and Act of the +State Legislature to change the boundaries of a sovereign State. + +The town-site of Yuma has grown slowly, but there will be a town there +as long as the two rivers flow. The Southern Pacific Railroad was +completed years ago, and forms the great artery of commerce. Immigration +enterprises of great magnitude have been undertaken with the waters of +the Colorado River. The river washes fully three hundred thousand square +miles, and furnishes a water power in the cataracts of the Grand Canon +only second to Niagara. + +"At Yuma, on the Colorado River, the only attempt at irrigation so far +made is by pumping works, which raise the water from the river and +convey it in pipes to the lands to be watered. While thus far only a +limited area is watered by this method, the results are satisfactory, +and the expense no greater than in many of the pipe systems of +California. + +"But for the magnitude, scope, and the boldness of its purpose, the +project to irrigate the great Colorado Desert is without a parallel in +the arid West, if in the world. + +"This undertaking contemplates the construction of gravity canals from a +point in the Colorado River, several miles above Yuma, and the +conducting of the waters of this river over an arid waste, that, while +forbidding in appearance, is known to be capable of great fertility. One +interesting feature of this plan to reclaim the desert is found in the +character of the water to be utilized. Analysis shows that the water of +the Colorado River carries a larger percentage of sedimentary deposit +than any other river in the world, not excepting the Nile. The same is +true, in a relative degree, of all the other rivers in Arizona. By +constant use of these waters the soil not only receives the reviving +benefits of irrigation, but at the same time a very considerable amount +of fertilizing material. + +"The beneficial results thus made possible have already been practically +demonstrated, and what may be achieved by the proposed reclamation of a +vast area, with peculiar advantages of climate and environment, is one +of the most significant suggestions conceivable in connection with the +new era of irrigation. + +"The storage of water by reservoirs for irrigation purposes has thus far +been one of the untried problems in Arizona. But the possibilities in +this section are equal to any section of the arid West, and because of +the stability and certainty of this method, it is only a question of +time when it will be carried into practical force."[B] + +In the progress of civilization, Fort Yuma has given way to an Indian +school, where the dusky denizens of the Colorado are progressing in +learning. + +After concluding our business in San Diego, we took the steamer for San +Francisco, and laid the result of the reconnaissance (which was not +much) before the "Syndicate." We had an audience with the commanding +officer of the Pacific, and procured a recommendation to the Secretary +of War for an exploration of the Colorado River. This was subsequently +accomplished with beneficial results,--at least for information. In San +Francisco it was decided that I should proceed to Washington, for the +purpose of soliciting assistance of the Federal Government in opening +the new Territory for settlement, and the voyage was made _via_ Panama. + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote A: It has been a mystery which I have been asked to explain a +thousand times, why the Gadsden Treaty was made with such a boundary +line. The true inwardness of the treaty is attempted to be explained. +The boundary line at Yuma, on the Colorado, at the junction of the Gila, +is now submitted to the U.S. Supreme Court. See Attorney General +Hart.--C.D.P.] + +[Footnote B: Quoted from a recent article of mine in a local paper. Such +quotations will occur in this series without further credit.--C.D.P.] + + + + + +II + +Early Mining and Filibustering + + +In 1855, When I arrived in Washington as an amateur delegate from the +new Territory, the "Gadsden Purchase" did not attract much attention. +They had something else to do. President Pierce, the most affable of +Presidents, was very polite, and asked many questions about the new +acquisition. The Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, promised to order an +exploration of the Colorado River as soon as he could get an +appropriation, and to send troops to the new Territory as soon as they +could be spared. + +During the winter General Heintzelman came to Washington, and as the +town was crowded, and he could not find suitable accommodations, I had +an extra bed put in my room at the National, and we messed together. It +was an advantage to have an officer of the Army who had been in command +at Yuma to give information about the country, and the association thus +formed lasted through life. + +There was not much to be done in Washington, so I went over to New York, +the seat of "The Texas Pacific Railroad Company." This company had been +organized under a munificent land grant from the State of Texas. The +capital stock was a hundred million dollars. The scheme was to build a +railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean on the proceeds +of land grants and bonds, and make the hundred millions of dollars stock +as profit, less one tenth of one per cent to be paid in for expenses and +promotion money. The President of this company was Robert J. Walker, +Secretary of the Treasury under President Polk; Vice-President, Thomas +Butler King, of Georgia, late Collector of the Port in San Francisco, my +recent superior; Secretary, Samuel Jaudon, late Cashier of the United +States Bank. Mr. Walker, the President of the Company, received me at +dinner at his mansion on Fifth Avenue, and my acquaintance with Thomas +Butler King was renewed over sparkling vintages. + +This company had parcelled the world out among its officers. Robert J. +Walker was to have the financial field of Europe. Samuel Jaudon, the +secretary, was to display his financial ability in New York and the +Atlantic cities. Edgar Conkling, of Cincinnati, was agent for the +Mississippi Valley. Thomas Butler King was allotted the State of Texas, +and I, being the junior, was to have the country between the Rio Grande +and the Colorado. + +I told them all I knew about the Territory,--and a great deal more,--and +enlarged upon the advantages that would accrue to the railroad company +by an exploration of the new Territory and a development of its mineral +resources. They inquired how much it would cost to make the exploration. +I replied that I would start with a hundred thousand dollars if there +was a million behind it. + +A company was organized with a capital of two million dollars, and +shares sold at an average of fifty dollars. General Heintzelman was +appointed president, and I was appointed "manager and commandant." The +office was located in Cincinnati, for the convenience of General +Heintzelman, who was stationed at Newport Barracks, Ky. William +Wrightson was appointed secretary. + +As soon as the necessary arrangements were made I started west on this +arduous undertaking. The arms and equipments had been shipped to San +Antonio, Texas, and I proceeded there to complete the outfit. + +San Antonio was the best outfitting place in the Southwest at that time. +Wagons, ambulances, mules, horses, and provisions were abundant, and men +could be found in Texas willing to go anywhere. + +At San Antonio I met the famous George Wilkins Kendall, who advised me +to go to New Bramfels, where I could find some educated German miners, +and as he was going to Austin I accompanied him as far as New Bramfels, +and received the benefit of his introduction. There were plenty of +educated German miners about New Bramfels, working on farms and selling +lager beer, and they enlisted joyfully. The rest of the company was made +up of frontiersmen (buckskin boys), who were not afraid of the devil. + +We pulled out of San Antonio, Texas, on the first day of May, 1856, and +took the road to El Paso, or Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande, 762 +miles by the itinerary. The plains of Texas were covered with verdure +and flowers, and the mocking birds made the night march a serenade. + +I carried recommendations from the War Department to the military +officers of the frontiers for assistance, if necessary. The first +military post on the road was Fort Clark (El Moro), and a beautiful +location. The post was at that time under the command of the famous John +Bankhead Magruder, whom I had known in California. + +Magruder had recently returned from Europe, bringing two French cooks; +and as he was a notorious bon vivant, it was not disagreeable to accept +an invitation to dinner. + +After breakfast next morning I went to take my leave of the officers, +but Magruder said:-- + +"Sir, you cannot go. Consider yourself under arrest." + +I replied, "General, I am not aware of having violated any of the +regulations of the Army." + +"No, sir, but you are violating the rules of hospitality. You shall stay +here three days. Send your train on to the Pecos, and I will send an +escort with you to overtake it." + +So I remained at Fort Clark three days in duress, and never had a +prisoner of war more hospitable entertainment. Texas overflows with +abundant provisions, if they only had French cooks. + +After a toilsome and dangerous march through Lipans and Commanches we +arrived on the upper Rio Grande, at El Paso, in time to spend the Fourth +of July. El Paso at this time was enjoying an era of commercial +prosperity. The Mexican trade was good. Silver flowed in in a stream. + +After recruiting at El Paso we moved up to the crossing of the Rio +Grande at Fort Thorn, and prepared to plunge into Apache land. Camping +the command on the green-fringed Mimbres I took five men, and with +Doctor Steck and his interpreter made a visit to the Apaches in their +stronghold at Santa Rita del Cobre. + +There was an old triangular-shaped fort built by the Spaniards which +afforded shelter. There were about three hundred Apaches in +camp,--physically, fine looking fellows who seemed as happy as the day +was long. The agent distributed two wagon loads of corn, from which they +made "tiz-win," an intoxicating drink. + +Their principal business, if they have any, is stealing stock in Mexico +and selling it on the Rio Grande. The mule trade was lively. They proved +themselves expert marksmen; but I noticed always cut the bullets out of +the trees, as they are economists in ammunition if nothing else. + +Deer and turkeys were plentiful, and we feasted for several days in the +old triangular fort and under the trees. Doctor Steck told the Apaches +that I was "a mighty big man," and they must not steal any of my stock +nor kill any of my men. + +The chiefs said they wanted to be friends with the Americans, and would +not molest us if we did not interfere with their "trade with Mexico." + +On this basis we made a treaty and the Apaches kept it. + +I had a lot of tin-types taken in New York, which I distributed freely +among the chiefs, so they might know me if we should meet again. Many +years afterwards an Apache girl told me they could have killed me often +from ambush, but they remembered the treaty and would not do it. I have +generally found the Indians willing to keep faith with the whites, if +the whites will keep faith with them. + +After leaving the camp at the Mimbres, we crossed the Chiricahua +Mountains, and camped for noon on a little stream called the San Simon, +which empties into the Gila River. We had scarcely unlimbered when the +rear guard called out, "Apaches!" and about a hundred came thundering +down the western slope of the mountain, well mounted and well armed. +Their horsemanship was admirable, their horses in good condition, and +many of them caparisoned with silver-mounted saddles and bridles, the +spoil of Mexican foray. + +A rope was quickly stretched across the road, the ammunition boxes got +out, and everything prepared for a fight. The chief was a fine-looking +man named Alessandro, and as a fight was the last thing we desired, a +parley was called when they reached the rope. + +When asked what they wished, they said they wanted to come into camp and +trade; that they had captives, mules, mescal, and so on. We told them we +were not traders, and had nothing to sell. They were rather insolent at +this, and made some demonstrations against the rope. I told the +interpreter to say that I would shoot the first man that crossed the +rope, and they retired for consultations. Finally they thought better of +it, or did not like the looks of our rifles and pistols, and struck off +for their homes in the north. + +I had a stalwart native of Bohemia in the company who was considered +very brave; but when the attack was imminent he was a little slow in +coming forward, and I cried out somewhat angrily, "Anton, why don't you +come out?" + +He replied, "Wait till I light my pipe." And that Dutchman stalked out +with a rifle in his hand, two pistols on his sides, and a great German +pipe in his mouth. + +The Apaches did not trouble us any more, and after crossing high +mountains and wide valleys we arrived on the Santa Cruz River, and +camped at the old Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac. + +Three leagues north of the Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac (Bac +means water) is located the ancient and honorable pueblo of Tucson. This +is the most ancient pueblo in Arizona, and is first mentioned in Spanish +history in the narrative of Castaneda, in 1540. The Spanish expedition +of Coronado in search of gold stopped here awhile, and washed some gold +from the sands of the Canon del Oro on sheep skins. It is well known +that that expedition drove sheep. The Spaniards, from this experience, +remembering the island of Colchis, named the place Tucson,--Jason in +Spanish. The "ancient and honorable pueblo" has borne this name ever +since, without profound knowledge of its origin. + +The patron saint of Tucson is San Augustine, and as it was now the last +of August the fiesta in honor of her patron saint was being celebrated. + +As we had a long march and a dry time, the animals were sent out to +graze in charge of the Papago Indians living around the Missions; two +weeks' furlough was given the men to attend the fiesta, confess their +sins, and get acquainted with the Mexican senoritas, who flocked there +in great numbers from the adjoining State of Sonora. + +Music and revelry were continued day and night, with very few +interruptions by violence. The only disorder that I observed was caused +by a quarrel among some Americans, and the use of the infernal revolver. +There were not more than a dozen Americans in the pueblo of Tucson when +we arrived, and they were not Methodist preachers. The town has grown +with the country, and now contains a population of nearly ten thousand +people, of many shades of color and many nationalities. + +The first question to be settled was the location of a headquarters for +the company. We had come a long way, at considerable risk and expense, +and fortunately without disaster. We were now encamped in view of the +scene of our future operations, and the exploration and settlement of a +territory of considerably over a hundred thousand square miles was +before us, and the destiny of a new State was in embryo. It would not be +prudent to expose the lives of the men and valuable property we had +hauled so far to the cupidity of the natives; and therefore a safe place +for storage and for defense was the first necessity in selecting a +headquarters. We had some hundred and fifty horses and mules, wagons, +ambulances, arms, provisions, merchandise, mining, material,--and +moreover, what we considered of inestimable value, the future,--in our +keeping, and a proper location was a grave consideration. + +The Spaniards had located a presidio at the base of the Santa Rita +Mountains on the Santa Cruz River, a stream as large and as beautiful as +the Arno, flowing from the southeast, and watering opulent valleys which +had been formerly occupied and cultivated. The presidio was called +Tu-bac (the water). The Mexican troops had just evacuated the presidio +of Tubac, leaving the quarters in a fair state of preservation, minus +the doors and windows, which they hauled away. + +The presidio of Tubac was about ten leagues south of the mission church +of San Xavier del Bac, on the Santa Cruz River, on the high road (camino +real) to Sonora and Mexico; consequently we struck camp at the Mission +San Xavier del Bac, and pulled out for the presidio of Tubac to +establish our headquarters and future home. + +There was not a soul in the old presidio. It was like entering the ruins +of Pompeii. Nevertheless we set to work, cleaned out the quarters, +repaired the corrals, and prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as +possible. + +The first necessity in a new settlement is lumber, and we dispatched +men to the adjacent mountains of Santa Rita to cut pine with whip-saws, +and soon had lumber for doors, windows, tables, chairs, bedsteads, and +the primitive furniture necessary for housekeeping. The quarters could +accommodate about three hundred men, and the corrals were ample for the +animals. The old quartel made a good storehouse, and the tower on the +north, of which three stories remained, was utilized as a lookout. The +beautiful Santa Cruz washed the eastern side of the presidio, and fuel +and grass were abundant in the valley and on the mountain sides. It was +not more than a hundred leagues to Guaymas, the seaport of the Gulf of +California, where European merchandise could be obtained. There were no +frontier custom houses at that time to vex and hinder commerce. + +In the autumn of 1856 we had made the headquarters for the company at +Tubac comfortable, laid in a store of provisions for the winter, and +were ready to begin the exploration of the country for mines. When you +look at the Santa Rita Mountains from Tubac, it seems a formidable +undertaking to tunnel and honeycomb them for mines. Nevertheless, we +began to attack with stout hearts and strong arms, full of hope and +enthusiasm. The mines in the Santa Rita Mountains had been previously +worked by the Spaniards and Mexicans, as was evident by the ruins of +arrastres and smelters. Gold could be washed on the mountain sides, and +silver veins could be traced by the discolored grass. + +As soon as it was known in Mexico that an American company had arrived +in Tubac, Mexicans from Sonora and the adjacent States came in great +numbers to work, and skillful miners could be employed at from fifteen +to twenty-five dollars a month and rations. Sonora furnished flour, +beef, beans, sugar, barley, corn, and vegetables, at moderate prices. + +A few straggling Americans came along now and then on pretense of +seeking employment. When questioned on that delicate subject, they said +they would work for $10 a day and board; that they got that in +California, and would never work for less. After staying a few days at +the company's expense they would reluctantly move on, showing their +gratitude for hospitality by spreading the rumor that "the managers at +Tubac employed foreigners and greasers, and would not give a white man a +chance." They were generally worthless, dissipated, dangerous, low white +trash. + +Many Mexicans that had been formerly soldiers at the presidio of Tubac +had little holdings of land in the valley, and returned to cultivate +their farms, in many cases accompanied by their families. + +By Christmas, 1856, an informal census showed the presence of fully a +thousand souls (such as they were) in the valley of the Santa Cruz in +the vicinity of Tubac. We had no law but love, and no occupation but +labor. No government, no taxes, no public debt, no politics. It was a +community in a perfect state of nature. As "syndic" under New Mexico, I +opened a book of records, performed the marriage ceremony, baptized +children, and granted divorces. + +Sonora has always been famous for the beauty and gracefulness of its +senoritas. The civil wars in Mexico, and the exodus of the male +population from Northern Mexico to California, had disturbed the +equilibrium of population, till in some pueblos the disproportion was as +great as a dozen females to one male; and in the genial climate of +Sonora this anomalous condition of society was unendurable. Consequently +the senoritas and grass widows sought the American camp on the Santa +Cruz River. When they could get transportation in wagons hauling +provisions they came in state,--others came on the hurricane deck of +burros, and many came on foot. All were provided for. + +The Mexican senoritas really had a refining influence on the frontier +population. Many of them had been educated at convents, and all of them +were good Catholics. They called the American men "Los God-dammes," and +the American women "Las Camisas-Colorados." If there is anything that a +Mexican woman despises it is a red petticoat. They are exceedingly +dainty in their underclothing,--wear the finest linen they can afford; +and spend half their lives over the washing machine. The men of northern +Mexico are far inferior to the women in every respect. + +This accretion of female population added very much to the charms of +frontier society. The Mexican women were not by any means useless +appendages in camp. They could keep house, cook some dainty dishes, wash +clothes, sew, dance, and sing,--moreover, they were expert at cards, and +divested many a miner of his week's wages over a game of monte. + +As Alcalde of Tubac under the government of New Mexico, I was legally +authorized to celebrate the rites of matrimony, baptize children, grant +divorces, execute criminals, declare war, and perform all the functions +of the ancient El Cadi. The records of this primitive period are on file +in the Recorder's office of the Pueblo of Tucson, Pima County. + +Tubac became a kind of Gretna Green for runaway couples from Sonora; as +the priest there charged them twenty-five dollars, and the Alcalde of +Tubac tied the knot gratis, and gave them a treat besides. + +I had been marrying people and baptizing children at Tubac for a year or +two, and had a good many godchildren named Carlos or Carlotta according +to gender, and began to feel quite patriarchal, when Bishop Lame sent +down Father Mashboef, (Vicar Apostolic,) of New Mexico, to look after +the spiritual condition of the Arizona people. + +It required all the sheets and tablecloths of the establishment to fix +up a confessional room, and we had to wait till noon for the blessing at +breakfast; but worse than all that, my commadres, who used to embrace me +with such affection, went away with their reybosas over their heads +without even a friendly salutation. + +It was "muy triste" in Tubac, and I began to feel the effects of the ban +of the Church; when one day after breakfast Father Mashboef took me by +the arm, (a man always takes you by the arm when he has anything +unpleasant to say,) and said:-- + +"My young friend, I appreciate all you have been trying to do for these +people; but these marriages you have celebrated are not good in the eyes +of God." + +I knew there would be a riot on the Santa Cruz if this ban could not be +lifted. The women were sulky, and the men commenced cursing and +swearing, and said they thought they were entitled to all the rights of +matrimony. + +My strong defense was that I had not charged any of them anything, and +had given them a marriage certificate with a seal on it, made out of a +Mexican dollar; and had given a treat and fired off the anvil. Still, +although the Pope of Rome was beyond the jurisdiction of even the +Alcalde of Tubac, I could not see the way open for a restoration of +happiness. + +At last I arranged with Father Mashboef to give the sanction of the +Church to the marriages and legitimize the little Carloses and Carlottas +with holy water, and it cost the company about $700 to rectify the +matrimonial situation in Santa Cruz. + +An idea that it was lonesome at Tubac would be incorrect. One can never +be lonesome who is useful, and its was considered at the time that the +opening of mines which yielded nothing before, the cultivation of land +which lay fallow, the employment of labor which was idle, and the +development of a new country were meritorious undertakings. + +The table at Tubac was generously supplied with the best the market +afforded, besides venison, antelope, turkeys, bear, quail, wild ducks, +and other game, and we obtained through Guaymas a reasonable supply of +French wines for Sunday dinners and the celebration of feast days. + +It is astonishing how rapidly the development of mines increases +commerce. We had scarcely commenced to make silver bars--"current with +the merchant"--when the plaza at Tubac presented a picturesque scene of +primitive commerce. Pack trains arrived from Mexico, loaded with all +kinds of provisions. The rule was to purchase everything they brought, +whether we wanted it or not. They were quite willing to take in exchange +silver bars or American merchandise. Sometimes they preferred American +merchandise. Whether they paid duties in Mexico was none of our +business. We were essentially free traders. + +The winter was mild and charming, very little snow, and only frost +enough to purify the atmosphere. It would be difficult to find in any +country of the world, so near the sea, such prolific valleys fenced in +by mountains teeming with minerals. The natural elements of prosperity +seem concentrated in profusion seldom found. In our primitive simplicity +we reasoned that if we could take ores from the mountains and reduce +them to gold and silver with which to pay for labor and purchase the +productions of the valleys, a community could be established in the +country independent of foreign resources. The result will show the +success or failure of this Utopian scheme. + +The usual routine at Tubac, in addition to the regular business of +distributing supplies to the mining camps, was chocolate or strong +coffee the first thing in the morning, breakfast at sunrise, dinner at +noon, and supper at sunset. + +Sunday was the day of days at Tubac, as the superintendents came in from +the mining camps to spend the day and take dinner, returning in the +afternoon. One Sunday we had a fat wild turkey weighing about +twenty-five pounds, and one of my engineers asked permission to assist +in the _cocina_. It was done to a charm, and stuffed with pine nuts, +which gave it a fine flavor. + +As we had plenty of horses and saddles, a gallop to the old Mission of +San Jose de Turnucacori, one league south on the Santa Cruz River, +afforded exercise and diversion for the ladies, especially of a Sunday +afternoon. The old mission was rapidly going to ruin, but the records +showed that it formerly supported a population of 3,500 people, from +cultivation of the rich lands in the valley, grazing cattle, and working +the silver mines. The Santa Cruz valley had been and could apparently +again be made an earthly paradise. Many fruit trees yet remained in the +gardens of the old mission church, and the "Campo Santo" walls were in +a perfect state of preservation. + +The communal system of the Latin races was well adapted to this country +of oases and detached valleys. Caesar knew nearly as much about the +governing machine as the sachem of Tammany Hall, or a governor in +Mexico. At least, he enriched himself. In countries requiring irrigation +the communal system of distributing water has been found to produce the +greatest good for the greatest number. The plan of a government granting +water to corporations, to be sold as a monopoly, is an atrocity against +nature; and no deserving people will for long submit to it. The question +will soon come up whether the government has any more right to sell the +water than the air. + +In the spring of 1857, a garden containing about two acres was prepared +at Tubac, and irrigated by a canal from the Santa Cruz River. By the +industry of a German gardener with two Mexican assistants, we soon +produced all vegetables, melons, etc., that we required, and many a +weary traveler remembers, or ought to remember, the hospitalities of +Tubac. We were never a week without some company, and sometimes had more +than we required; but nobody was ever charged anything for +entertainment, horse-shoeing, and fresh supplies for the road. +Hospitality is a savage virtue, and disappears with civilization. + +As the ores in the Santa Rita Mountains did not make a satisfactory +yield, we turned our explorations to the west of the Santa Cruz River, +and soon struck a vein of petanque (silver copper glance) that yielded +from the grass roots seven thousand dollars a ton. This mine was named +in honor of the president of the company, "Heintzelman," which in German +mining lore is also the name of the genius who presides over mines. + +The silver bullion over expenses, which were about fifty per cent, was +shipped, via Guaymas, to San Francisco, where it brought from 125 to 132 +cents per ounce for the Asiatic market. + +Silver bars form rather an inconvenient currency, and necessity required +some more convenient medium. We therefore adopted the Mexican system of +"boletas." Engravings were made in New York, and paper money printed on +pasteboard about two inches by three in small denominations, twelve and +one half cents, twenty-five cents, fifty cents, one dollar, five +dollars, ten dollars. Each boleta had a picture, by which the illiterate +could ascertain its denomination, viz: twelve and a half cents, a pig; +twenty-five cents, a calf; fifty cents, a rooster; one dollar, a horse; +five dollars, a bull; ten dollars, a lion. With these "boletas" the +hands were paid off every Saturday, and they were currency at the +stores, and among the merchants of the country and in Mexico. When a run +of silver was made, anyone holding tickets could have them redeemed in +silver bars, or in exchange on San Francisco. This primitive system of +greenbacks worked very well,--everybody holding boletas was interested +in the success of the mines; and the whole community was dependent on +the prosperity of the company. They were all redeemed. Mines form the +bank of Nature, and industry puts the money in circulation, to the +benefit of mankind. + +In the autumn of 1857 a detachment from the regiment of First Dragoons +arrived in the Santa Cruz Valley, for the purpose of establishing a +military post, and for the protection of the infant settlements. The +officers were Colonel Blake, Major Stein, and Captain Ewell. The first +military post was established at Calaveras, and the arrival of the +officers made quite an addition to the society on the Santa Cruz. + +Incident to the arrival of the military on the Santa Cruz was a +citizens' train of wagons laden with supplies,--twelve wagons of twelve +mules each,--belonging to Santiago Hubbell, of New Mexico. While he was +encamped at Tubac I inquired the price of freight, and learned it was +fifteen cents a pound from Kansas City. I inquired what he would charge +to take back a freight of ores, and he agreed to haul them from the +Heintzelman mine to Kansas City and a steamboat for twelve and a half +cents a pound, and I loaded his wagons with ores in rawhide bags,--a ton +to the wagon. This was the first shipment of ores, and a pretty "long +haul." + +Upon the arrival of these ores in the States they were distributed to +different cities for examination and assay, and gave the country its +first reputation as a producer of minerals. The average yield in silver +was not enormous, as the ores contained a great deal of copper, but the +silver yield was about fifteen hundred dollars to the ton. + +In December, 1856, I purchased for the company the estate of "La +Aribac," or Arivaca, as it is called by Americans. This place is a +beautiful valley encompassed by mountains, and containing only a few +leagues of land. It was settled by Augustine Ortiz, a Spaniard, in 1802, +and title obtained from the Spanish government. The ownership and +occupation descended to his two sons, Tomas and Ignacio Ortiz, who +obtained additional title from the Mexican Republic in 1833, and +maintained continuous occupation until 1856, when they sold to the +company for a valuable consideration. + +The validity of the title has been denied by the United States, +notwithstanding the obligations of the treaty, and is now pending before +the United States Land Court, with the prospect of an appeal to the +United States Supreme Court, with a fair prospect of the ultimate loss +of the property. The company conveyed the property with all mines and +claims in Arizona to the writer, on the 2nd January, 1870,--a woful +heritage. + +In the early months of 1857, everything was going well in the Santa Cruz +valley. The mines were yielding silver bullion by the most primitive +methods of reduction. The farmers were planting with every prospect of a +good crop. Emigrants were coming into the country and taking up farms. +Merchants were busy in search of the Almighty Dollar or its +representative. + +The only disturbing element in the vicinity was a little guerilla war, +going on in Sonora between two factions for the control of the State +government. Gaudara was the actual governor, and had been so for many +years, during which time he had accumulated a handsome fortune in lands, +mills, mines, merchandise, live stock, and fincas. He was a sedate and +dignified man, much respected by the natives, and especially polite and +hospitable to foreigners. Pesquiera was an educated savage, without +property or position, and naturally coveted his neighbor's goods. +Consequently a revolution was commenced to obtain control of the +governorship of the State; and just the same as when King David sought +refuge in the cave of Adullam, all who were in debt, all who were +refugees, all who were thieves, and all who were distressed, joined +Pesquiera to rob Guadara. This is all there was,--or ever is, to Mexican +revolutions. + +On the discovery of gold in California, many Mexicans went from Sonora +to California and remained there. Among these was one Ainsa, of Manila +descent, married to a native of Sonora, who migrated to California with +a large family of girls and boys in 1850, and had a Bank and Mexican +Agency on the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets, where +there was the usual sign,-- + + SE COMPRA ORO + Up Stairs + +The girls of the Ainsa family grew to womanhood, and carried the beauty +and graces of Sonora to a good market. They all married Americans, and +married well. + +As Helen of Sparta caused the Trojan War, and many eminent women have +caused many eminent wars, there was no reason why the Ainsa women should +not take part in the little revolution going on in their native State +(Sonora). Their husbands could then become eminent men, annex the State +of Sonora to the United States, and become governors and senators. It +was a laudable ambition on the part of the Ainsa women, and their +husbands were eminently deserving,--in fact, their husbands were already +the foremost men in California in political position. One of them had +been a prominent candidate for the United States Senate, and the others +had occupied high position in Federal and State service, and were highly +respected among their fellow citizens. In this state of affairs the +eldest brother,--Augustine, was despatched to Sonora to see what +arrangements could be made with Pesquiera if the Americans would come +from California and help him oust Gaudara. + +Pesquiera was in desperate straits, and agreed to whatever was +necessary; the substance of which was that the Americans should come +with five hundred men, well armed, and assist him in ousting Guadara and +establishing himself as governor of Sonora. After that the Americans +could name whatever they wanted in money or political offices, even to +the annexation of the State, which was at that time semi-independent of +Mexico. + +Augustine, the Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +returned to California with the agreement in writing; and the Americans +immediately began to drum up for recruits; but the prosperity of +California was so great that but a few could be persuaded to leave a +certainty for an uncertainty. The Americans in California actually +started for Sonora with less than fifty men, with vague promises of +recruits by sea. The records of the ferryman on the Colorado River show +that they crossed the river with only forty-two men and a boy. + +With this meager force these infatuated and misguided men pushed one +hundred and thirty-two miles across a barren desert to the boundary line +of Mexico at the Sonoita (Clover Creek), where there is a little stream +of water struggling for existence in the sands. At the Sonoita the +invaders were met by a proclamation from Pesquiera, forwarded through +Redondo, the Prefect of Altar, warning them not to enter the State of +Sonora. When men have resolved on destruction, reason is useless, and +they paid no attention to the order, and crossed the boundary line of +Mexico with arms and in hostile array. When they reached the vicinity of +Altar they diverged from the main road to the west, and took the road to +Caborca. + +The only possible reason for this movement is that they may have +expected reinforcements by sea, as Caborca is the nearest settlement to +a little port called Libertad, where small ships could land. Be this as +it may, no reinforcements ever came: and this little handful of +Americans soon found themselves hemmed in at the little town of Caborca +without hope or succor. They were the very first gentlemen of the +States, mostly of good families, good education, and good prospects in +California. What inhuman demon ever induced them to place themselves in +such position, God only knows. Many of them left their wives and +families in California, and all of them had warm friends there. + +Pesquiera issued a bloodthirsty proclamation, in the usual grandiloquent +language of Spain, calling all patriotic Mexicans to arms, to +exterminate the invaders and to preserve their homes. The roads fairly +swarmed with Mexicans. Those who had no guns carried lances, those who +had no horses went on foot. Caborca was soon surrounded by Mexicans, and +the forty-two Americans and one little boy took refuge in the church on +the east side of the plaza. + +This proved only a temporary refuge. An Indian shot a lighted arrow into +the church and set it on fire. The Americans stacked arms and +surrendered. My God! had they lost their senses? These forty-two +American gentlemen, who had left their wives, children, and friends in +California a month or two before under a contract with Pesquiera were +butchered like hogs in the streets of Caborca, and neither God nor man +raised hand to stop the inhuman slaughter. + +They had not come within two hundred miles of my place, and nobody could +have turned them from their purpose if they had. Many of them were old +friends and acquaintances in California, and their massacre cast a gloom +over the country. + +There was only one redeeming act that ever came to my knowledge, and I +know it to be true. When Pesquiera's order to massacre the invaders were +read, Gabilonda, second in command, swore he would have nothing to do +with it, and mounting his horse swung the little boy Evans behind him +and galloped away to Altar. Gabilonda carried him to Guaymas, from where +he was afterwards sent to California. + +It has been stated that the corpses were left in the streets for the +hogs to eat, but the cure of Caborca assured me that he had a trench dug +and gave them Christian interment. I never saw nor conversed with any of +the leaders, but a detachment came up the Gila River to Tucson and +Tubac, enlisting recruits, but could only raise twenty-five or thirty +men. The invasion was generally discouraged by the settlers on the Santa +Cruz. When they passed by Sopori on their way to join the main body, I +remember very well the advice of old Colonel Douglas, a veteran in +Mexican revolutions. He said,-- + +"Boys, unless you can carry men enough to whip both sides, never cross +the Mexican line." + +I was at Arivaca when the Santa Cruz contingent returned, badly +demoralized, wounded, naked, and starving. The place was converted into +a hospital for their relief, with such accommodations as could be +afforded. Pesquiera was well aware of the adage that "dead men tell no +tales." Crabb was beheaded, and his head carried in triumph to +Pesquiera, preserved in a keg of Mescal, with the savage barbarity of +the days of Herod. The contracts which would have compromised Pesquiera +with the Mexican government were destroyed by fire. So ended the Crabb +Expedition, one of the most ill-fated and melancholy of any in the +bloody annals of Mexico. + +The result of this expedition, commonly called "Crabb's," was that the +Mexican government laid an embargo upon all trade with this side of the +line, and business of all kinds was paralyzed. + +Under these circumstances I crossed the desert on mule-back to Los +Angeles, with only one companion, and went to San Francisco to take a +rest. + + + + + +III + + +War-Time in Arizona + + +The invasion of Sonora in the summer of 1857 by filibusters from +California, generally called the "Crabb Expedition," caused the pall of +death to fall on the boundary line of Mexico. Forty-two Americans had +been massacred at Caborca, and many Mexicans had been killed. The +abrasion was so serious that Americans were not safe over the Mexican +boundary, and Mexicans were in danger in the boundaries of the United +States. + +Gabilonda, who was the only Mexican officer who protested against the +massacre, came very near being mobbed by Americans in Tucson, although +he was perfectly innocent of any crime,--on the contrary, deserved +credit for his humanity in rescuing the boy Evans. Gabilonda was +subsequently tried by a Mexican court martial organized by Pesquiera, +the Governor of Sonora, and acquitted. He lived to a green old age as +Collector of Mexican customs on the boundary line, and died honored and +respected. + +When I returned from San Francisco to the mines, in the winter of 1857, +the country was paralyzed; but by the talisman of silver bars the mines +were put in operation again, and miners induced to come in from Mexico. +Christmas week the usual festival was given at Arivaca, and all the +neighbors within a hundred miles invited. + +In 1858 the business of the Territory resumed its former prosperity, and +the sad events of the "Crabb Expedition" were smoothed over as far as +possible. The government had subsidized an overland mail service at +nearly a million a year, called the Butterfield line, with daily mails +from St. Louis to San Francisco, running through Arizona. The mail +service of the West has done a great deal to build up the country; and +population came flocking into the Territory with high hopes of its +future prosperity. + +General Heintzelman obtained a furlough, and came out to superintend the +mines. Colonel Samuel Colt, of revolver fame, succeeded him as president +of the company, as he had contributed about two hundred and fifty +thousand dollars in money and arms to its resources, with the intention +of enlisting as much capital as might be required from New England. +Machinery was constructed on the Atlantic seaboard, and hauled overland +from the Gulf of Mexico to the mines,--1350 miles. + +The Apaches had not up to this time given any trouble; but on the +contrary, passed within sight of our herds, going hundreds of miles into +Mexico on their forays rather than break their treaty with the +Americans. They could have easily carried off our stock by killing the +few vaqueros kept with them on the range, but refrained from doing so +from motives well understood on the frontiers. There is an unwritten law +among ranchmen as old as the treaty between Abraham and Lot. + +In 1857 a company of lumbermen from Maine, under a captain named Tarbox, +established a camp in the Santa Rita Mountains to whipsaw lumber at one +hundred and fifty dollars per thousand feet, and were doing well, as the +company bought all they could saw. They built a house and corral on the +south side of the Santa Cruz River, on the road from Tucson to Tubac, +called the Canoa. This wayside inn formed a very convenient stopping +place for travelers on the road. One day twenty-five or thirty Mexicans +rode into Tubac, and said the Apaches had made a raid on their ranches, +and were carrying off some hundred head of horses and mules over the +Babaquivera plain, intending to cross the Santa Cruz River between the +Canoa and Tucson. The Mexicans wanted us to join them in a cortada (cut +off), and rescue the animals, offering to divide them with us for our +assistance; but remembering our treaty with the Apaches, and how +faithfully they had kept it, we declined. They went on to the Canoa, +where the lumbermen were in camp, and made the same proposition, which +they accepted, as they were new in the country and needed horses and +mules. The lumbermen joined the Mexicans, and as they could easily +discern the course of the Apaches by the clouds of dust, succeeded in +forming an ambuscade and fired on the Apaches when they reached the +river. The Apaches fled at the fire, leaving the stolen stock behind. + +The Mexicans made a fair division, and the mule trade was lively with +the lumbermen and the merchants in Tucson. With the proceeds of their +adventure the lumbermen added many comforts and luxuries to their camp +at the Canoa on the Santa Cruz, and travelers reveled in crystal and +whisky. + +About the next full moon after this event, we had been passing the usual +quiet Sunday in Tubac, when a Mexican vaquero came galloping furiously +into the plaza, crying out: "Apaches! Apaches! Apaches!" As soon as he +had recovered sufficiently to talk, we learned that the Apaches had made +an attack on Canoa, and killed all the settlers. + +It was late in the day; the men had nearly all gone to the mines, and we +could only muster about a dozen men and horses; so we did not start +until early next morning, as the Mexican said there were "Muchos +Apaches." + +When we reached the Canoa, a little after sunrise, the place looked as +if it had been struck by a hurricane. The doors and windows were +smashed, and the house a smoking ruin. The former inmates were lying +around dead, and three of them had been thrown into the well, head +foremost. We buried seven men in a row, in front of the burnt houses. + +As well as could be ascertained by the tracks, there must have been +fully eighty Apaches on horseback. They carried off on this raid 280 +head of animals from the Canoa and the adjoining ranches. + +There were some companies of the First Dragoons eating beef at Fort +Buchanan. The commanding officer was notified, and sent some troops in +pursuit, but the Apaches were in their strongholds long before the +dragoons saddled their horses. + +The pursuit of Apaches is exceedingly dangerous, as they are very +skillful in forming ambuscades, and never give a fair fight in an open +field. Their horsemanship is far superior to American troops, who are +for the most part foreigners, and exceedingly awkward. + +The second serious trouble with the Apaches was brought about by a far +more foolish cause than the first, and it was much more disastrous. + +In the winter of 1857 a somber colored son of Erin came along on foot to +the presidio of Tubac, and solicited the rights of hospitality, food and +a fire. Whether he had been run out of California by the Vigilance +Committee, as many of our "guests" had been, or was escaping legitimate +justice, was not in question; the imperative cravings of the stomach +admit of very scant ceremony; so I took John Ward in to dinner, and +provided him with all the comforts of home. + +At bed-time he asked me if he might sleep in the front room by the +fire; to which I reluctantly consented, taking good care to lock and bar +the door between us. + +The next morning after breakfast I gave John Ward some grub, and advised +him to push on to Fort Buchanan, on the Sonoita, where he could probably +get some employment. + +He went on to the Sonoita and took up a ranch, forming a temporary +partnership with a Mexican woman, according to the customs of the +country at that time. + +She had a little boy who also appeared to be partly of Celtic descent, +as he had a red head, and was nicknamed "Micky Free." This probably +formed the only matrimonial tie between John Ward and the Mexican woman. +In the course of time John Ward got a hay contract, a wagon, and a few +yoke of oxen, and appeared to be thriving at Uncle Sam's expense. Fort +Buchanan was garrisoned by a portion of the First Regiment of dragoons. +The most of the men were Germans, and could not mount a horse without a +step-ladder. + +In the early part of 1858 John Ward got drunk, and beat his step-son +Micky Free until he ran away to Sonora. Ward became so blind drunk that +he could not find his oxen; so he went to the Fort and complained to +Major Stein, the commanding officer, that the Apaches had stolen his +oxen and carried off the woman's boy. + +Major Stein was a very good man, and very capable of running a saw-mill +in Missouri, where he came from. He listened to John Ward's tale of woe, +and ordered out a detachment of the First Dragoons, under Lieutenant +Bascomb, to pursue the Apaches and recover Micky Free and the oxen. +Bascomb was a fine-looking young fellow, a Kentuckian, a West Pointer, +and of course a gentleman; but he was unfortunately a fool; although his +uncle, Preacher Bascomb, of Lexington, was accounted a very eminent +clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. This is a very different family +from Bascomb of the Confederate X roads. + +Lieutenant Bascomb's command pursued some Apaches, who had been raiding +in Sonora, into the Whetstone Mountains, where they called a parley. The +Apaches were summoned to camp _under a white flag_; and feeling +perfectly innocent of having committed a crime against the Americans, +fearlessly presented themselves before Lieutenant Bascomb and his boys +in blue. They positively denied having seen the boy or stolen the oxen; +and they told the truth, as was well known afterward; but the Lieutenant +was not satisfied, and ordered them seized and executed. + +Four Apache chiefs were seized and tied. Cochise (in the Apache dialect +Wood) managed to get hold of a knife, which he had concealed, cut his +bonds, and escape. He was a very brave leader, and after having wreaked +a terrible vengeance for the treachery of American troops to the +Apaches, died in peace at the Indian Agency in the Chiricahua Mountains, +1874. + +The war thus inaugurated by this Apache chieftain lasted fourteen years, +and has scarcely any parallel in the horrors of Indian warfare. The men, +women, and children, killed; the property destroyed, and the detriment +to the settlement of Arizona cannot be computed. The cost of the war +against Cochise would have purchased John Ward a string of yokes of oxen +reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific; and as for his woman's son, +Micky Free, he afterwards became an Indian scout and interpreter, and +about as infamous a scoundrel as those who generally adorn that +profession. I am on very friendly terms with him and all his family, and +would not write a word in derogation of his character, or of his +step-father, John Ward, but to vindicate history. + +The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco sent a considerable number of +unsavory immigrants to Arizona, who with the refugees from Mexico, Texas +and Arkansas, rendered mule property rather insecure in the early days. +Gambling has been an industrial pursuit since the first settlement of +the country, and the saloon business flourishes with the prosperity of +the times. Strange to say, amidst this heterogeneous population there +has never been a vigilance committee. + +The Company and the country (synonymous terms) continued to improve, +with occasional interruptions by the Apaches, until the beginning of +1861, when the reverberations of the gun fired at Sumter were heard in +the Arizona mountains. A newspaper had been started by the company at +Tubac, called _The Arizonian_. Our mail came overland by Butterfield +coaches, at the rate of a hundred miles a day, but at last we waited for +"the mail that never came." In the spring of 1861 a coach was started +out from the Rio Grande with thirteen of the bravest buckskin boys of +the West, and ten or twelve thousand dollars in gold, to pay off the +line and withdraw the service; but the Apaches waylaid the coach in +Stein's Pass, killed all of the men, and captured the gold. + +In the month of June the machinery was running smoothly at Arivaca, the +mines were yielding handsomely, and two hundred and fifty employees were +working for good wages, which were paid punctually every Saturday +afternoon. + +One day an orderly from Fort Buchanan rode up to headquarters and +handed me a note from Lieutenant Chapin, enclosing a copy of an order +from the commanding officer of the Military Department:-- + + Santa Fe, June, 1861, + Commanding Officer, Fort Buchanan:-- + + On receipt of this you will abandon and destroy + your Post; burn your Commissary and Quartermasters' + stores, and everything between the Colorado + and Rio Grande that will feed an army. + + March out with your guns loaded, and do not + permit any citizen within fifteen miles of your lines. + + (Signed) Major General Lynde + +A council of the principal employees was called, and the order laid +before them. The wisest said we could not hold the country after the +troops abandoned it,--that the Apaches would come down upon us by the +hundred, and the Mexicans would cut our throats. It was concluded to +reduce the ore we had mined, which was yielding about a thousand dollars +a day, pay off the hands, and prepare for the worst. + +About a week afterwards the Apaches came down by stealth, and carried +off out of the corral one hundred and forty-six horses and mules. + +The Apaches are very adroit in stealing stock, and no doubt inherit the +skill of many generations in theft. The corrals are generally built of +adobe, with a gate or bars at the entrance. It was a customary practice +for the Apaches to saw an entrance through an adobe wall with their +horsehair ropes (cabrestas). + +The corral at Arivaca was constructed of adobes, with a layer of cactus +poles (ocquitillo) lengthwise between each layer of adobes. The Apaches +tried their rope saw, but the cactus parted the rope. The bars were up, +and a log chain wound around each bar and locked to the post; but they +removed the bars quietly by wrapping their scrapes around the chain, to +prevent the noise alarming the watchman. The steam engine was running +day and night, and the watchman had orders to go the rounds of the place +every hour during the night; but the Apaches were so skillful and +secretive in their movements that not the least intimation of their +presence on the place was observed,--not even by the watchdogs, which +generally have a keen scent for Indians. + +At the break of day the Apaches gave a whoop, and disappeared with the +entire herd before the astonished gaze of five watchmen, who were +sleeping under a porch within thirty yards. A pursuit was organized as +soon as possible; but the pursuers soon ran into an ambuscade prepared +by the retreating Apaches, when three were killed and two wounded. The +rest returned without recovering any of the stock. + +This loss of stock made very lonesome times at Arivaca, as it could not +be replaced in the country, and we had no animals to haul ores, fuel, or +provisions; only a few riding and ambulance animals, which had to be +kept in stables and fed on grain. + +About the same time the Apaches made an attack on the Santa Rita Mining +Hacienda, and the eastern side of the Santa Cruz River had to be +abandoned. + +At Tubac, the headquarters of the company, where the old Mexican cuartel +furnished ample room for storage, about a hundred and fifty thousand +dollars worth of merchandise, machinery and supplies were stored. The +Apaches, to the number of nearly a hundred, surrounded the town and +compelled its evacuation. The plunder and destruction of property was +complete. We had scarcely a safe place to sleep, and nothing to sleep on +but the ground. + +The women and children were escorted to the old pueblo of Tucson, where +the few people remaining in the Territory were concentrated; and they +remained there in a miserable condition until the troops arrived from +California under General James A. Carlton, United States Army, commonly +called "Carlton's Column." + +General Carlton, upon arriving in the Territory, issued an order +declaring martial law between the Colorado and the Rio Grande. These +troops garrisoned the country between the rivers, and drove out the +rebel troops, who had come in from Texas under the Confederate +government. + +After the abandonment of the Territory by the United States troops armed +Mexicans in considerable numbers crossed the boundary line, declaring +that the American government was broken up, and they had come to take +their country back again. Even the few Americans left in the country +were not at peace among themselves,--the chances were that if you met in +the road it was to draw arms, and declare whether you were for the North +or the South. + +The Mexicans at the mines assassinated all the white men there when they +were asleep, looted the place, and fled across the boundary to Mexico. +The smoke of burning wheat-fields could be seen up and down the Santa +Cruz valley, where the troops were in retreat, destroying everything +before and behind them. The government of the United States abandoned +the first settlers of Arizona to the merciless Apaches. It was +impossible to remain in the country and continue the business without +animals for transportation, so there was nothing to be done but to pack +our portable property on the few animals we kept in stables, and strike +out across the deserts for California. + +With only one companion, Professor Pumpelly, and a faithful negro and +some friendly Indians for packers, we made the journey to Yuma by the +fourth of July, where we first heard of the battle of Bull Run. Another +journey took us across the Colorado Desert to Los Angeles, and thence we +went by steamer to San Francisco, and thence via Panama to New York. + +It was sad to leave the country that had cost so much money and blood in +ruins, but it seemed to be inevitable. The plant of the Company at this +time in machinery, materials, tools, provisions, animals, wagons, etc., +amounted to considerably over a million dollars, but the greatest blow +was the destruction of our hopes,--not so much of making money as of +making a country. Of all the lonesome sounds that I remember (and it +seems ludicrous now), most distinct is the crowing of cocks on the +deserted ranches. The very chickens seemed to know that they were +abandoned. + +We were followed all the way to Yuma by a band of Mexican robbers, as it +was supposed we carried a great amount of treasure, and the fatigue of +the journey by day and standing guard all night was trying on the +strongest constitution in the hot summer month of June. + +An account of the breaking up of Arizona and our journey across the +deserts to California has been given by Professor Pumpelly, in his book, +"Across America and Asia." The subject is so repugnant that the +harrowing scenes preceding the abandonment of the country are only +briefly stated. + +The Civil War was in full blast upon my arrival in New York, and the +change of venue from Apache Land was not peaceful. The little balance to +my credit from the silver mines was with William T. Coleman & Co., 88 +Wall Street, and I put it up as margin on gold at $132 and sold for +$250. + +After resting a while in New York I went down to Washington, and found +my old friend General Heintzelman in command of what was technically +called "The Defenses of Washington." The capital of the nation was +beleaguered! + +The Civil War and its results set Arizona back about twenty years. + +The location of the Iturbide Grant had been continued in Sonora and +Lower California, under direction of Captain--afterwards General--Stone, +an officer for the United States Army, of engineering ability. I had +first become acquainted with him when he was quartermaster at Benicia +Barracks, in California, and met him the last time when he was chief of +staff to the Khedive of Egypt at Grand Cairo, on the Nile. + +Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, held the state in quasi-independence +of Mexico, and drove the surveying party under Stone out of Mexico by +force of arms. + +The funds for the location and survey of the Iturbide Grant had been +furnished by French bankers in San Francisco, and obtained by them +through their correspondent in Paris. A large portion of the money had +been contributed by the entourage of the Second Empire under Napoleon, +as the French were desirous of getting a foothold in Mexico. The +expulsion of Stone's locating and surveying party was considered an +affront to France, as the survey and location were undertaken under a +valid grant of land made by the Mexican government, and the French were +not satisfied to lose the many millions of francs they had invested in +the enterprise. The influence of the shareholders in the Iturbide land +location finally caused the intervention of the French government. + +It will be remembered that the first intervention was a joint occupation +of Vera Cruz by French, English and Spanish; but the English and Spanish +soon withdrew, and left the French to pull their own chestnut out of +the fire. + +The time was not ripe for the French intervention in Mexico until we +were in the midst of the Civil War, when Napoleon seized the opportunity +to set up Maximilian of Austria, as Emperor of Mexico, protected by +French forces under Bazaine. + +No doubt but Napoleon and the officials of the Second Empire sympathized +with the government of the Confederate States, and would have given them +substantial aid if they had dared; but the Russian Czar sent a fleet to +New York as a warning,--and the French had had enough of Russians on +their track. + +It was expressly stipulated in France, upon the founding of the +Maximilian Empire, that the obligations given for funds to carry on the +survey and location of the Iturbide Grant should be inscribed and +recognized as a public debt of the Empire, and such will be found a +matter of record and history. Many Frenchmen, no doubt, keep them as +companion souvenirs to the obligations of the Panama Canal. The Grant +has never been located, and the Mexican government yet owes the heirs, +in equity, the original million dollars. + +The French, under Maximilian, occupied Mexico up to the American +boundary line, and many Mexicans took refuge in the United +States,--among them Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora. His camp was at +the old Mission of Tumucacori, in the Santa Cruz Valley and his wife is +buried there. + +President Juarez, of Mexico, was a refugee at El Paso del Norte during +the reign of Maximilian, in destitute circumstances, when I was enabled +to furnish him with a hundred thousand dollars in gold on a concession +of Lower California. The circumstances were recently related for the +Examiner of San Francisco, by Senor Romero, the Mexican minister in +Washington. + +During the brief existence of the Maximilian Empire in Mexico, many +Americans flocked to the capital for adventures, as sympathizers with +the government of the Confederate States, and consequently with the +occupation of Mexico. + +The late Senator Gwin of California was the acknowledged leader of the +Americans, and it was rumored that he was to be created Duke of Sonora, +but I never believed that the sterling old Democrat would have accepted +a title of nobility. + +The battle of Gettysburg sealed the fate of the Maximilian Empire, as +well as the fate of the empire of the United States. The Mexican Empire +and the French Empire have both passed away like dreams, but the Empire +of the People grows stronger every year. + + + + + +IV + +Arizona a Territory at Last + + +When the Civil War was nearly over, General Heintzelman accompanied me +on a call at the executive mansion, to solicit the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona. + +President Lincoln listened to my tale of woe like a martyr, and finally +said, "Well, you must see Ben Wade about that." + +I subsequently called upon Senator Wade of Ohio, the chairman of the +Committee on Territories, and repeated my story of Arizona. + +The bluff old Senator said, "O, yes, I have heard of that country,--it +is just like hell--all it lacks is water and good society." + +He finally consented to attend a meeting at the President's, to discuss +the subject. + +Ashley of Ohio was chairman of the Committee on Territories in the +House, and readily agreed to favor the organization of a territorial +government. In a few days President Lincoln appointed an evening, to +hear the Delegation in favor of Arizona from 8 to 12. The chairmen of +the committees on Territories attended, and General Heintzelman and some +other friends were present. I presented the maps, historical data, some +specimens of minerals and Indian relics, and after a long conference and +some interesting stories by the President, the organization of a +territorial government for Arizona was agreed upon. + +The country was at that time under martial law,--General Carlton. If any +system of government is repellent to Americans it is martial law. +Whatever may be the expense of juries, lawyers, witnesses, and courts, +they form the only means civilized society has yet devised for the +settlement of disputes. It is true that a territorial form of government +was never contemplated by the framers of the Constitution, as no +provision was made for such a form of government; but this omission is +covered by the general welfare clause, which gives Congress the power to +"provide for the general welfare." + +The formula adopted in an Act of Congress organizing a Territory, is "An +Act to provide a provisional government, etc., etc., etc." In course of +time, no doubt, all the Territories will be admitted as States, as the +territorial form of government is not provided for as a permanency by +the Constitution, and is moreover anomalous in the American system. The +people residing in the Territories are to a considerable extent +disfranchised politically, and are not, in fact, full-fledged American +citizens. The idea of taxation without representation is irritating to +their sense of justice, and for many other cogent reasons Congress will +be forced by public opinion to admit the Territories to all the rights +of sovereign States. + +The delegate from New Mexico and myself sat at a table, and drew up a +bill dividing New Mexico into nearly equal parts by the hundred and +eleventh degree of longitude west; and providing for the organization of +"The Territory of Arizona" from the western half. The bill soon became +an Act of Congress, and was approved by President Lincoln on the +twenty-third of February, 1863. + +The offices were divided out among the supporters of the measure at an +oyster supper, and as I was apparently to get nothing but the shells, I +fortified myself with a drink, and exclaimed, "Well, gentlemen, what is +to become of me?" + +They seemed not to have thought about that, and the Governor-elect said: + +"O, we will give you charge of the Indians, you are acquainted with +them." + +So I was appointed "Superintendent of Indian Affairs." The salary of the +office was two thousand dollars a year, payable in greenbacks worth +about thirty-three cents on the dollar in the currency of Arizona. + +Arrangements were made for the transportation of my new colleagues +across the plains at government expense; but I took Ben Holladay's coach +at Kansas City, and crossed the continent to Sacramento, and thence by +river steamer to San Francisco. The Indian goods had been shipped to +Yuma. + +In San Francisco I met my old friend, J. Ross Browne, who had just +returned from Europe, and invited him to accompany me through Arizona at +my expense. He afterwards wrote an account of the journey, "Wanderings +in the Apache Country," published by Harpers. + +Archbishop Alemany, whom I had known as a parish priest in Kentucky, +called upon me in San Francisco, and asked if I would take a couple of +priests down to Arizona, to restore the service among the Indians at +the old Mission of San Xavier del Bac on the Santa Cruz, to which I +assented with great pleasure. + +After a voyage by sea from San Francisco to Los Angeles, I presented my +orders from the Secretary of War to the commanding officer at Drumm +Barracks for an escort of cavalry and transportation to Arizona; and +prepared for the journey across the Colorado Desert. + +We arrived at Yuma just before Christmas, and during Christmas week +regaled the Yumas, Cocopas, and neighboring tribes of Indians with their +first presents from Uncle Sam. After distributing the Indian goods at +Yuma, we proceeded upon the Gila River some two hundred miles to the +Pima village, where my old friends, the Pima Indians, gave a warm +welcome, not entirely on account of the Indian goods. + +At the Pima villages one Sunday, I requested the priests to celebrate +the mass, and tell the Indians something about God,--remembering my own +failure in teaching theology. The troops were drawn up, the Indians +assembled, and Father Bosco through my interpreter preached the first +sermon the Pima Indians ever heard. + +At dinner, the good Father took me by the ear, and said, "What for you +make me preach to these savages?--they squat on the ground, and laugh +at me like monkeys." + +The next place for the distribution of Indian goods was at the Mission +of San Xavier del Bac, three leagues south of Tucson, among the Papagos, +a christianized branch of the great Pima tribe. The Papago chiefs were +my old friends and acquaintances, and received the priests with +fireworks and illuminations. They knew of our coming, and had swept the +church and grounds clean, and ornamented the altar with mistletoe. + +The Indians had been expecting the priests for many years,---- + + For the Jesuits told them long ago + As sure as the water continued to flow, + The sun to shine, and the grass to grow, + They would come again to the Papago. + +I installed the priests in the old Mission buildings, and turned over +the goods intended for the Papagos for distribution at their +convenience. + +I met an old friend at the Mission called "Buckskin Alick," who had +lived there all through the war without reading a newspaper or changing +his clothes. As nails were scarce, Buckskin Alick had constructed a mill +held together by rawhides, and was grinding wheat for the Papagos. In +the meantime he had taken up with a Papago girl, to the scandal of the +tribe. The priests told him he must marry the girl or leave. He +appealed to me for protection, but I told him I had resigned my +sacerdotal functions to the priest. He married the girl, and kept the +mill. + +In 1863 a considerable number of prospectors had come into Arizona, +mostly from the California side, on account of discoveries of gold on +the Hassayamp. Old Pauline Weaver was the discoverer, as he had been a +trapper and pioneer since 1836. His name is carved on the walls of the +Casa Grande with that date. + +The gold washers there were doing very well, and ranches began to be +established on the river. But the Apaches were not inclined to leave the +settlers in peace when they had some fine horses and mules, and some fat +cattle. So the Tonto Apaches made a raid on the Hassayamp, and carried +off nearly all the stock. + +King Woolsey had come into the country then, and was a prominent man +among the settlers, and undoubtedly a very brave one; so he raised a +company to go after the Tontos. (As every one knows, "tonto" means +"fool.") + +There were not more than twenty-five men, including some friendly +Maricopas. They were well armed, but their commisariat consisted +principally of panole and jerkey. + +They followed the Indians across the Verde to a place about half way +between Globe and the Silver King, where they came to a parley. The +tanks there are surrounded by rough ledges of basalt rocks, and the +country in the vicinity is covered by scoriae, as though a volcano had +vomited the refuse of the subterranean world to disfigure nature. + +The Indians came in slowly for a talk, but were insolent and defiant. +Delshay, the Tonto chief, demanded a blanket and some coffee and whisky. +The Americans had neither coffee nor whisky for their own use, and he +was quite put out about it, but partook of panole and jerked beef. + +The parley was very unsatisfactory, as the Indians were surly, and made +demands which it was impossible to grant. There were about twenty-five +Indians at the council, and fifty or more on the surrounding ledges. As +the Indians became more hostile the situation became more serious, and +it was evident to the Americans that they were surrounded, and in +imminent danger of massacre. + +Woolsey was not only a brave but a very intelligent man, and he saw at +once that either the Americans or the Indians were to be slaughtered, so +he said: "Boys, we have got to die or get out of this. Each of you pick +out your Indian, and I will shoot the chief for a signal." + +The fusillade commenced, and all the Indians that could run stampeded. +The only American killed was Lennon, a half brother of Ammi White, my +Indian agent at the Pima villages. + +Lennon had picked out his Indian and sent a bullet to his heart; but the +Indian in the agonies of death made a lunge at Lennon with his spear and +transfixed him. They both fell at the Bloody Tanks in the embrace of +death. + +The Americans rescued Lennon's body, and having strapped it over a pack +mule, carried it away to the next camp, where it was buried with +Christian services at the foot of an aspen tree. + +The Americans brought away twenty-four scalps. + +After the Bloody Tanks affair some of the men engaged in it came into +the Pima villages, where I was in camp. J. Ross Browne, who was with me, +took down the account in short hand, and I made a list of the Americans +engaged in the expedition. I remember, when Browne got through with his +stenography, he asked one of the men if he had any Indian relics. The +man replied, "Yes, I have got some jerked years," and he presented +Browne about a dozen "jerked years" strung on buckskin. + +I concluded to make a scout up country and see what was going on among +the Indians, and as there were no troops at my command I organized a +company of Pimas and Maricopas as scouts. They had recently received +arms and ammunition from the government, and I had uniforms and swords +enough for the officers. They soon learned to drill, and already knew +how to shoot. + +The commissariat was not quite up to military regulations, but we set +out all the same, following along the Hassayamp to Antelope Peak, when +we turned east by Walnut Creek to the Verde over an infernal trail. + +The way down the Verde was not much better, as the Black Canon has never +been considered strewn with roses; but we hunted and fished to the +junction of the Verde and Salt River without seeing any Apaches. + +The only "sign" we saw was cut on a tree,--twenty-four Americans and +twenty-four arrows pointed at them, which the Pimas interpreted to me as +the number of Americans the Apaches threatened to kill in retaliation. + +There was not a soul on the Verde, and not a white man nor a house on +the Salt River, from the junction of the Verde to its confluence with +the Gila. We camped at the "Hole-in-the-Rock," and next morning crossed +Salt River at the peak about Tempe, and crossed over to the Pima +villages, glad enough to get to that haven of rest. It was 100 miles to +Tucson, and 280 miles to Yuma, and not a soul nor any provisions +between the two places. + +There was no great inducement to stay in the Territory at that time, +except for people who had an insane ambition for orchestral fame on the +golden harps of New Jerusalem. Many of the people had read about the +government of the United States, in school books; and perhaps had +enjoyed the felicity of hearing a Fourth of July oration in youth; but +these were myths of antiquity in Arizona. There was no government of any +consequence, and even what there was was conducted on the Democratic +principle, not for protection but for revenue only. + +I anticipated the fourteenth amendment, and distributed the Indian goods +without regard to race, color or former condition of servitude. Anybody +that came along in need of blankets or tobacco was freely supplied. I +wound up the Indian service with loss of about $5,000 out of my own +pocket. + +At camp on the Hassayamp, Henry Wickenburg came in with some specimens +of gold quartz he had found out to the west, at a place subsequently +called Vulture, and wanted me to buy the find. I said, "Henry, I don't +want to buy your mine, but I will give you twenty-five dollars' worth +of grub and a meerschaum pipe if you will go away and leave me alone." + +I was also importuned to purchase Miguel Peralta's title from the King +of Spain for the Salt River Valley; but my experience with Spanish +grants in Texas, California and Arizona, did not incline me to invest, +even if the grant had been made by the Pope of Rome, and guaranteed by +the Continental Congress. + +The only members of the Woolsey Expedition remaining in Arizona that I +know of are Peeples of Phoenix, Chase of Antelope, and Blair at +Florence. + +The government of the United States can never recompense the people of +Arizona for the atrocities committed by the Apaches. It will never do to +make the plea that a government so vain-glorious and boastful could not +have conquered this tribe of savages, if the will to do so had existed. +Now, after forty years of devastation, the government pays the Apaches +one hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year in goods to maintain a +quasi peace. The settlers are not at any time secure against an Apache +outbreak, and there are at the present time some Apaches on the +war-path, which the government acknowledges its impotency to capture. "A +Century of Dishonor" was a well written book, and contains many +unpleasant truths. + +In the meantime, while I was delivering the Indian goods, my colleagues +in the territorial government had crossed the plains, and established +the capital at a remote place in the northern mountains, which they +called "Prescott," in honor of the Mexican historian. Just as was +supposed, they quarreled all the way across the plains about who should +be the first delegate to Congress from a Territory they had never seen. + +Upon my arrival at Prescott they were perfectly disgusted to learn that +I had already been declared a candidate, and was likely to get the votes +of the people. The political machine had not then been organized, and +the people had some say in the elections. + +The election was held in due time, and I was elected the first delegate +to Congress from Arizona. + +The "carpet baggers" worked the Territory for all it was worth, as is +evidenced by the public debt, which is three times as great as any State +or Territory in the Union, _per capita_. The Capital was moved from town +to town, as a political factor in the election of delegates, but now +rests at Phoenix, in the Salt River Valley, where it will permanently +remain, as no other place in the Territory can ever rival Phoenix in the +abundance of all that contributes to the comfort and happiness of life. +The soil is fertile, the climate healthful, and with water storage in +reservoirs a city will grow equal to any on the Nile. + +At this time there was not an inhabitant on Salt River where Phoenix now +stands, and the Salt River Valley was a desolate and abandoned waste. It +had been occupied some thousands of years ago by a race who cultivated +the land by irrigation, and built houses and cities which have gone to +ruin. The most diligent search has developed but few evidences of the +extent of their civilization. They had not advanced very far, as they +left no relics of either iron, copper, or steel. The land in cultivation +would have supported a population of from fifty to a hundred thousand +souls. + +It is an excusable ambition for a man, especially in the Western +country, to desire the honor of representing his State or Territory in +Congress. + +It was necessary to cross the deserts to San Francisco, and thence via +Panama to New York and Washington. + +I had scarcely taken my seat, when a distinguished-looking gentleman +(Roscoe Conkling) came up and introduced himself, saying in a very +pompous way: + +"I observe you have drawn a front seat,--and as I presume you do not +wish to debate, I shall feel very much obliged if you will have the +courtesy to exchange seats with me." + +I replied, "With the greatest pleasure, sir," and took a back seat, more +becoming to my station. + +In a few days the chairman of the Committee on Mileage came around to my +seat, and said, "Poston, how is this?--your mileage is $7,200, and mine +is only $300." + +I replied, "Frank, what is the price of whisky in your district?" + +He said, "About two dollars and a half per gallon." + +"Well," I said, "it is fifteen dollars a gallon in Arizona--that +equalizes the mileage." + +He certified the account, and never said another word. + +The salary was $5,000 a year, which added to the mileage, made +$12,200;--but it all went, and a great deal more, in entertainment and +presents at Washington. It was esteemed an honor to represent the +Territory for which so many sacrifices had been made, and such severe +hardships endured, and money was not spared to bring it to public notice +on every suitable occasion. + +The members of Congress usually manifest courtesy to delegates, as they +are considered in a political sense orphans of the Republic, not having +any vote nor in any other way being recognized as equals. They were not +obliged at that time to serve on committees, nor expected to answer the +roll-call. It was an easy berth for an indolent man without ambition or +avarice. + +The Thirty-eighth Congress was considered a very able assembly. The +Civil War had brought the most illustrious men of the nation to the +surface, and their acquaintance leaves a pleasant memory. When I look +over their photographs, now it is like shuffling an old pack of cards +which have been played out,--they have nearly all gone to the Upper +Chamber,--in this world or the next. Grow and Holman are the only ones +in the House now. Thaddeus Stevens was the leader of the House, and +treated me with the most distinguished consideration,--even to the +compliment of dining at my house,--which was unprecedented in his long +public career. The old sinner said the exception was made because my +wife was a Baptist. + +I made but one speech, and that was on the subject of Indian affairs. An +appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars was obtained for +the construction of irrigating canals, to enable the Indians of Arizona +to become self-supporting. This was the first instance in which +irrigation was brought to the notice of the government. + +President Lincoln was always accessible amid his heavy cares. As my +family lived in the neighborhood where the President had been reared, +my little girl made him a satchel of corn shucks from the field where he +had hoed corn barefooted in the briars, thinking he might appreciate a +souvenir from his old home. One afternoon I escorted my daughter to the +executive mansion to deliver my present. The President received it +graciously, and made many enquiries about the old neighbors. + +The 38th Congress passed the fourteenth amendment to the Constitution, +and as the delegates could not vote they were requested to sign a paper +giving their adhesion. I signed for Arizona; but it was a bitter pill. + + +The End. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Building a State in Apache Land +by Charles D. 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