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+Project Gutenberg's A Little Journey to Puerto Rico, by Marian M. George
+
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+*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
+
+
+Title: A Little Journey to Puerto Rico
+ For Intermediate and Upper Grades
+
+Author: Marian M. George
+
+Release Date: February, 2006 [EBook #9995]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on November 6, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+_THE PLAN BOOK SERIES_
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+for intermediate and upper grades
+
+
+BY MARIAN M. GEORGE
+
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+
+Do you know what people mean when they speak of "Our New Possessions"?
+What are they? Where are they? Why are men, in the streets, in the
+shops, everywhere, talking about them? Why are the newspapers full of
+articles in regard to them? Why are our lawmakers at the capital
+devoting so much time and attention to them? Can you tell?
+
+Some of these things you can easily ascertain for yourselves. Others we
+will speak of here.
+
+The new territory which has lately come into the possession of the
+United States, consists of the islands of Puerto Rico, Hawaii and the
+Philippines. Cuba is not included in this list; it is soon to be an
+independent country.
+
+Since Puerto Rico and these other islands have come to be parts of the
+United States, everyone is anxious to learn something more of them.
+
+The best way to learn the geography of a country and the customs of the
+people is to visit the country and see with your own eyes.
+
+That would be a difficult thing for most of us. The next best way is to
+make the journey in imagination, and that all of us can do.
+
+The island nearest us is Puerto Rico, the most eastern island of the
+Greater Antilles. Let us visit that first and the other islands later
+on.
+
+We must find out something of the climate, however, before we start on
+this journey. This may not be the right season of the year to go. We
+must know, too, what kind of clothing to take with us.
+
+In order to plan our route wisely, we must know something of the
+geography of the island. We should also know the past history of Puerto
+Rico, in order to understand the customs of the people and the
+conditions that exist there.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+LOCATION, SIZE, SURFACE.
+
+
+If you will find a map of the West Indies in your atlas or geography,
+you will also find Puerto Rico. It is one of the four Greater Antilles
+Islands, and lies east of Haiti and farthest out in the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+It is over four hundred miles from the east coast of Cuba, one thousand
+miles from Havana, and about one thousand four hundred and fifty miles
+from New York.
+
+In size it is the smallest of the group. Its area is about three
+thousand five hundred and fifty square miles. Its average length is
+about ninety-five miles; its average breadth about thirty-five miles.
+
+In shape it resembles the State of Connecticut, though it is only
+three-fourths the size of that State.
+
+[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Puerto Rico, in English, means Rich Harbor. But Puerto Rico is not rich
+in harbors. There are not more than six good harbors, but it has less
+than three hundred and fifty miles of coast line.
+
+The surface of Puerto Rico is mountainous. A range of hills traverses
+the island from east to west. The hills are low and their sides are
+covered with vegetation. The hills are not rocky and barren, but are
+cultivated to their very tops.
+
+[Illustration: AN AFTERNOON SIESTA.]
+
+The lower valleys are rich pasture lands or cultivated plantations. The
+knolls have orchards of cocoanuts and other trees. Coffee, protected by
+the shade of other trees, grows to the summits of the green hills. The
+ground is covered everywhere with a thick carpeting of grass.
+
+The soil is remarkably fertile. This is due partly to the fine climate,
+partly to abundant moisture. The island has many fast flowing rivers.
+There are over twelve hundred of these. In the mountains are numerous
+springs and water falls, but these are hidden by the overhanging giant
+ferns and plants.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+BRIEF HISTORY OF PUERTO RICO.
+
+
+Puerto Rico was discovered by Christopher Columbus November 17, 1493. He
+made a landing at a bay, where he found springs of pure water, which was
+much needed on his ships. This place he named Aguadilla, which means
+"the watering place."
+
+[Illustration: PONCE DE LEON.]
+
+In 1508 Ponce de Leon, a Spanish navigator, visited the island, and was
+much pleased with its beautiful scenery and with the hospitality of the
+natives. A year or two later he returned, and founded the town of
+Caparra. In 1509 he founded the city of San Juan on the island that
+guards the entrance on the east.
+
+When Ponce de Leon came to the island, he found it inhabited by a happy,
+harmless people who received him with delight. They brought gifts to
+him, and showed him and his soldiers gold, which was found in the river
+beds.
+
+The kindness of the natives was rewarded by cruelty on the part of the
+Spaniards. They were ruthlessly murdered or reduced to slavery, and
+compelled to work in the mines. A revolution followed in which the
+greater number of the natives were killed.
+
+The severe work required of those remaining so shortened their lives
+that very soon all had disappeared. Not a descendant of this race is now
+living, but many curious and interesting relics, left by them, may be
+found.
+
+One of these is a stone collar, shaped like a horse collar, and
+skillfully carved. This was placed upon the breast of the native after
+his death, and was supposed to keep him from harm.
+
+Ponce de Leon built for himself a castle on the point of land above the
+mouth of the harbor of San Juan, and here he lived until he sailed on
+the voyage which resulted in the discovery of Florida.
+
+After his departure, Puerto Rico was left alone for a long time. After
+some years, Spain sent peasants to colonize the island, and slaves were
+introduced to cultivate the plantations.
+
+In 1870 the island was made a province of Spain, instead of a colony. In
+1873 slavery was abolished.
+
+Puerto Rico came into the possession of the United States as the result
+of the recent war with Spain. It was ceded to the United States Sept. 6,
+1898.
+
+Gen. George R. Davis is now Military Governor of the island. The form of
+government for Puerto Rico has not yet been decided upon. It is one of
+the problems that Congress is now working out.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+CLIMATE--PERPETUAL JUNE.
+
+
+Puerto Rico is a very beautiful island. Its climate and scenery attract
+many visitors, and erelong it will be a popular winter resort for
+people from many countries.
+
+It has been called the land of perpetual June. Flowers bloom and plants
+and trees yield fruit the year round. There is no winter; but during
+the season which is our winter, their skies are beautifully clear and
+blue.
+
+The air is neither dry nor moist, but perfect. The nights are always
+cool, and the trade winds keep the hottest days from being unpleasant.
+The average temperature is only 80 deg.. It is the coolest and the
+healthiest place in the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration: GATHERING COFFEE IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+There are two seasons, the rainy and the dry. The rainy season lasts
+from July to December; the dry, from January to June. From November to
+June the climate is more than usually delightful and healthful. In the
+summer months it is somewhat warm, and the heat and dampness are
+oppressive in August and September.
+
+In September and October the rain comes in torrents, but it rains in the
+mountains almost every day in the year. The daily showers of the rainy
+season usually come late in the afternoon, but the sky clears up with
+the setting sun.
+
+The people pay little attention to drainage or to securing a supply of
+good water. As a result, fevers are common during the summer months
+among the people who live in crowded quarters in the city or in the
+marshes.
+
+Hurricanes occasionally occur between the months of July and October.
+These are sometimes accompanied by earthquake shocks. People may be
+injured or killed and their homes destroyed during these violent storms.
+Puerto Rico, however, is freer from them than other islands of the West
+Indies.
+
+A HURRICANE.
+
+It is easy to tell when a hurricane is approaching. The wind dies away
+and a deathly stillness falls over everything. Not a breath of air
+moves. The leaves droop on the trees and the heat almost smothers one.
+
+The sky becomes copper-colored, and tints everything with a ghastly hue.
+The cattle and other animals seem to know that danger is near, and rush
+about in a terrified way.
+
+Far out in the ocean the water is calm and smooth; but near the shore
+the waves rush furiously upon the beach with a mighty roar.
+
+By and by the wind begins to rise, just a little; first from one
+direction, and then from another. This is a sign that the storm is near
+at hand. Very soon a fearful roar is heard, and all at once the
+hurricane descends upon the island.
+
+The work of destruction begins. Trees are uprooted, growing crops are
+laid waste, and houses are torn down and scattered in every direction.
+Sometimes whole villages are destroyed and many people killed or
+wounded.
+
+When the barometer tells of the approach of a storm, the people prepare
+for it. They hunt some hole, cave, or cellar into which to crawl. They
+take with them, when there is time to do so, a supply of cane juice and
+food, to last until the storm subsides.
+
+"The people guard as much as possible from the hurricanes by building
+their houses of stone with massive walls. They provide strong bars for
+doors and windows. When the barometer gives notice of the approach of a
+storm, these bars are brought out, and everything is at once made fast.
+
+"Doors and window-shutters are closed, barred, and double locked, and
+the town looks as if it were deserted by all human beings. The state of
+suspense, while the hurricane lasts, is dreadful, for no one knows when
+the house may fall and bury all beneath its ruins.
+
+"Add to this the howling of the blasts, the crash of falling trees, the
+piercing cries for help from the wounded and dying, and one may faintly
+picture the terrible scene. To venture out is almost certain death, the
+air is so filled with flying missiles, such as boards, bricks, tiles,
+stones, and branches of trees."
+
+It is indeed fortunate that the people of Puerto Rico are largely free
+from these desolating storms. Some idea of their power for destruction
+may be gathered from the pictures in our papers of Galveston, Texas,
+after the recent hurricane there.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP.
+
+The best time for us to visit Puerto Rico, then, is after the hurricane
+season, in the winter. January, February, and March are the favorite
+months of travelers.
+
+But if we wish to celebrate the four hundred and seventh anniversary of
+the discovery of the island, we must go in November. It was the 17th day
+of this month that Columbus first visited Puerto Rico.
+
+We will need to take our thinnest clothing for use on the island, but we
+should have light wraps for the cool evenings.
+
+We should also go well provided with umbrellas, rubber overshoes, and
+rain coats, if we do not wish to spend many afternoons indoors.
+
+Now the best way to reach Puerto Rico is not, as many people think, from
+Cuba. San Juan, the capital, is nearly as far from Havana as from New
+York.
+
+We will take the steamer from New York that goes directly to San Juan.
+If the weather is good, we may expect to make the voyage in four days.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE VOYAGE.
+
+
+What a busy crowd it is through which we pass to the New York wharf!
+Dozens of large ships and hundreds of small vessels and sailboats crowd
+the harbor.
+
+There is a large steamer just going out. It is loaded with hardware,
+kerosene, pine lumber, and codfish, and is probably bound for South
+America.
+
+Crowds of people are going on deck with departing friends. Many of the
+friends have brought or sent flowers and steamer-letters, to be enjoyed
+by the travelers, during the voyage.
+
+[Illustration: OUR OCEAN STEAMER.]
+
+Now the bell sounds a warning to our visitors to say good-by. They leave
+the boat, and soon we are off. As we leave the harbor we listen to the
+band playing "America" and the "Star Spangled Banner," and take the last
+glimpse of our native land which we shall have for a month.
+
+It is not far from the dinner hour, so we now visit the dining-room for
+the purpose of securing our place at the table from the head steward.
+
+We next secure a steamer chair, and have the deck steward place it in a
+comfortable, sheltered place on deck. It is well, before long, to visit
+our staterooms, and put our clothes and other belongings in order for
+the trip.
+
+By the time this is done dinner is announced. Somehow we do not feel
+very hungry. The vessel rolls about so that we begin to feel dizzy. We
+think we would rather go to bed, and we try to do so, but find it rather
+difficult.
+
+The stewardess comes in just then, and asks if she may help us. With her
+assistance we climb into our berths. Rock, rock, rock! If the boat would
+only be quiet one moment! We are very seasick by this time, and feel as
+if we never wish to eat another meal. The motion of the boat lulls us to
+sleep by and by, and the next thing we know it is morning.
+
+The air in our stateroom seems close and "stuffy," so we gladly leave it
+and go on deck, where we remain for the rest of the day. The steward
+serves our meals to us here, and we spend the time in our steamer
+chairs, watching the white-capped waves, the sea gulls over us, and the
+porpoises following the boat for food.
+
+After the first day out we sail into smoother seas and warmer weather.
+We throw aside our wraps and put on lighter clothing. We also don broad
+shade-hats to protect our eyes from the glare of the light upon the
+water.
+
+A favorable wind bears us southward to the tropical sea, which many
+people consider among the most beautiful things in the world.
+
+The water of the Bahama sea is wonderful because of its clearness and
+its deep purple color. A cloud shadow changes the purple into emerald.
+
+Looking down into the clear depths, we see the dolphins as distinctly
+as the birds overhead. Shoals of flying fish dart out of the water,
+their fins serving as sails for an instant; then they drop back again.
+
+Many other new and interesting objects and scenes add to the pleasure of
+our voyage from the great northern metropolis to the capital of the
+island in the southern seas. These we can not tell about now.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SAN JUAN.
+
+
+While we are learning of the plant and animal life about and beneath us,
+the good ship bears us swiftly on, and all too soon we are at our
+journey's end.
+
+We seem hardly to have left the shadow of Liberty's towering torch in
+New York harbor, before the gray walls of Morro Castle appear above the
+horizon. Far out at sea, this massive stone fort with its beacon light
+attracts our attention.
+
+Across the harbor entrance the white-capped waves rush furiously over
+each other in a mad race toward the shore. Passing through this narrow
+channel, the ship glides into the harbor under the guns of the two
+picturesque old forts which guard it, and we get our first glimpse of
+San Juan.
+
+[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY--NEW YORK HARBOR.]
+
+Our first view of this beautiful old city fills us with anticipations
+of pleasure. We find that the ground upon which the city lies slopes
+upward from the calm, broad harbor to the forts that guard its heights.
+
+Here and there a tall palm-tree rears its graceful head above the tops
+of the gayly colored buildings that glisten in the sunlight.
+
+Our guide tells us that San Juan is one of the most perfectly fortified
+cities in the world. It is easy to believe this when, from the ocean and
+from the bay, we see the massive walls and battlements of the forts that
+guard the north and east.
+
+We learn that they are cut from the solid rock which crowns the crest of
+the narrow peninsula. The steep walls of the vast castle of San
+Cristobal overshadow the whole city.
+
+The city is built on an island, connected with the mainland by a bridge.
+
+It is surrounded by a high, thick stone wall: that is, it was once upon
+a time; but the city is now extended far beyond the walls. Inside is the
+city proper, or old San Juan. Outside are the more modern buildings and
+the suburbs.
+
+San Juan is not only the seat of government, but it is considered the
+first city of Puerto Rico in interest and in importance. Ponce, however,
+disputes this claim. It has the best harbor, and the best public
+buildings, churches and schools on the island.
+
+The palace of the governor-general and the headquarters of the American
+administration we find located in San Juan.
+
+Over thirty thousand people make their homes in this city, and a goodly
+number of them we find at the shore to meet our vessel. They do not wait
+for us to land. They come out to meet us.
+
+Dusky natives in landing boats are soon alongside, and we learn to our
+surprise that our ship does not go to the dock. We are to go ashore in
+these small awning-covered boats. This is a new experience for us, but
+it is an old Spanish custom.
+
+[Illustration: LANDING FROM OUR STEAMER AT SAN JUAN.]
+
+The steward of the ship tells us that we may retain our rooms and use
+the ship as a hotel during the stay in port, going ashore for
+sight-seeing when we like.
+
+We have heard that the hotels in San Juan are very poor; but of course
+we wish to see for ourselves what they are like, and so we decide to
+give them a trial.
+
+We are in no hurry to seek the hotels, however. The streets of San Juan
+present so many novel sights to our wandering eyes that we wish to look
+about first.
+
+STREET SCENES.
+
+We have been told that we could walk all over the town in an hour, and
+we resolve to try it.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN SAN JUAN.]
+
+The streets are narrow and dark, but well paved and clean. They ought to
+be clean, for they are swept by hand every day. The sidewalks are so
+narrow that only two of us can walk abreast, so we take to the road.
+This is used as a highway for people as well as vehicles.
+
+Naked little children of all ages and colors play about the streets and
+on the sidewalks. Colored men and women, smoking black cigars, saunter
+idly about. Street venders carrying their stores upon their heads or
+backs, or in large panniers upon tiny ponies, fill the air with cries
+announcing their wares.
+
+Judging from the number of the venders of drinks we see on the streets,
+every one in San Juan is thirsty. We are, at any rate, and very
+delicious we find their ices and sherbets, their iced orange, lemon and
+strawberry waters, iced cherries, milk, coffee and chocolate.
+
+[Illustration: DULCE (SWEETMEAT) SELLERS IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Fruit sellers under the arcades and in stalls tempt us with their
+attractive wares; but the fruits are new and strange to us, and we
+hesitate about buying.
+
+The hack drivers are asleep on closed carriages at the hack stand. Long
+lines of clumsy carts, with high wheels, rumble over the cobblestone
+pavements with a dreadful clatter.
+
+In the open doorways of shops we see men and women manufacturing
+articles for sale. Some are making chairs, some shoes, some jewelry,
+some boxes, and, in one place, we see a number of workmen making
+coffins.
+
+We are interested in observing that flags of different colors are used
+as signs, and that the walls are painted with brilliant pictures. In the
+quarter near the sea, the brandy stores, built of reeds, have round them
+swarms of beggars of every degree.
+
+The laundry shop we find just outside the city, beside a large creek. A
+laundry not built by hands! Here women stand knee-deep in the stream,
+with the hot sun beating down upon their heads. They are doing their
+laundry work. The clothes are cleaned by soaking them in water and
+pounding them with stones. We wonder if there are any buttons left on
+the clothes after this treatment, and resolve not to trust our clothes
+to this laundry.
+
+We note outside the city wall a broad concrete walk; along this walk
+seats, trees, and rude statues; and between the walk and the wall an
+ornamental garden.
+
+Having now taken a general stroll, we will rest up preparatory to our
+visit to the points of special interest.
+
+POINTS OF INTEREST IN SAN JUAN.
+
+We are now ready to visit the places of unusual interest about the
+capital city. The most noted buildings are the governor's palace, the
+cathedral, the city hall, the arsenal, the buildings used as quarters
+for the troops, the forts, the castles of Morro and San Cristobal, the
+house which Ponce de Leon built, the palace of the bishop, the theater,
+the hospital, the orphan asylum, the poorhouse, the jail, the library,
+and the colleges.
+
+In the heart of the town, facing the City Hall, the guide shows us a
+public plaza; and under the frowning walls of San Cristobal, on the
+outskirts of the city, he points out another. These plazas are flat,
+open spaces, paved with cement and surrounded by rows of shade trees.
+
+In the plaza of Columbus, on the outskirts of the city, is a handsome
+statue of Columbus. Facing this plaza is the grand theater.
+
+In the cool of the evening, the people gather in these plazas, and
+listen to the music of the band.
+
+One of the most interesting buildings in the, city to us is the "White
+House of Ponce de Leon." It is still standing where it looked northward
+over the sea so long ago.
+
+On the side toward the bay is an old wall, and beyond this is a
+beautiful garden and rows of palm trees. From the windows we get a fine
+view of the bay.
+
+The people of San Juan have honored its founder with a statue, which
+stands in the center of one of its plazas.
+
+His remains are preserved in a leaden box in the church of Santo
+Domingo.
+
+We find the famous Morro Castle to be a small military town in itself,
+with houses, chapel, barracks, dungeons, water tanks, warehouses, and
+also a light tower, a signal station, and a light-saving station.
+
+This ancient fort is the beginning of the wall which surrounds the city.
+
+THE MARKET PLACE.
+
+Look at these people coming in from the country! Our guide says they are
+going to the market place. Let us follow them and see what a Puerto
+Rican market place is.
+
+Here it is, situated near the ocean. The court is formed with stones,
+and it contains booths for fruits, vegetables, and produce of all kinds.
+
+[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET.]
+
+Dear me! what a busy, noisy place! People from every race and nation
+seem to be gathered here. Big people, little people, babies, roosters,
+dogs, donkeys, horses! What talking, shouting, laughing, crying,
+crowing, barking, and braying!
+
+Men are smoking, lounging about, and bragging about their game-cocks;
+women are making small purchases and gossiping with neighbors; babies
+are tumbling about on the ground, devouring bits of fruit that come in
+their way: but all are good-natured.
+
+Each market man or woman has a place assigned, and within this space or
+in a booth are piled high heaps of fruits and vegetables. And such
+fruits and vegetables we never in our lives beheld or even dreamed of!
+
+Heaps and heaps of golden, luscious oranges are offered us by the
+thousand, or two for a penny. Bananas are sold five for a cent, or a
+bunch of a hundred bananas for twenty-five cents. Think of it! In New
+York it would cost us three to five dollars.
+
+There are ever and ever so many kinds of fruits of which we do not even
+know the name. But we make a list of those whose names we do know, and
+here they are: oranges, bananas, plantains, limes, lemons, cocoanuts,
+bread-fruit, bread nuts, pomegranates, dates, figs, pawpaws, the
+tamarind, sugar apple, grosella, mammee, guava, granadilla, naseberry,
+alligator pears, shaddocks, and Indian plums.
+
+Could you find so many in a New York, New Orleans, Chicago, or San
+Francisco market, do you think?
+
+Then here are the vegetables. They would make even a longer list, but we
+note a few of those with whose names and forms we are acquainted: yams,
+sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, carrots, turnips, celery, beets, egg
+plant, radishes, peas, beans, tomatoes, cabbage, pumpkins, cantaloupes,
+watermelons, squashes, peppers, cassava, yantias, and okra.
+
+[Illustration: A POULTRY DEALER.]
+
+The people in the market, seeing that we are Americans, try to charge
+us many times what each article is worth. If we travel very far, we will
+find that this is a custom of the people in many countries. They think
+all Americans are rich.
+
+[Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE AT PONCE, PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Now this is a great mistake, and so we decline very firmly to buy
+anything at all. This offends the market people. They wish us to make
+them an offer.
+
+They offer us their fruits for half the first price. Again we refuse. A
+fourth of the original price. We shake our heads.
+
+Our guide now offers to make our purchases for us, and does so for a
+very small sum. And the market people and venders are quite satisfied.
+It is all they expected.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+HOMES AND HOME LIFE.
+
+
+A narrow, shaded street tempts us to leave the noisy, business part of
+the town and the throng that crowds these streets and plazas, and stray
+into the suburbs.
+
+No matter which way we turn, some new picture meets our eyes.
+
+Wandering along, we peep into doorways, courtyards and pleasant patios.
+Some of the houses have crosses upon their summits, to show the devotion
+of the inmates to their religion.
+
+Others have a palm branch twined among the iron bars of their balconies,
+or placed aloft, to protect the house from evil. This branch was one of
+those blessed at the cathedral the last Palm Sunday.
+
+A piece of white paper floating from the iron railing of a balcony tells
+us that the house is to let. Here buildings can be rented by the day or
+week, as well as by the month or year.
+
+The dwellings and other buildings are of gray stone or brick, stuccoed
+over and tinted blue, yellow, drab or any other color but pink.
+
+About half the houses are two stories in height, the others one story;
+but all are flat-roofed and without chimneys. The main or upper story
+has iron balconies which project over the narrow streets and darken
+them. The houses have no windows of glass, but the window openings are
+provided with heavy shutters. We enter these houses through interior
+courts or patios.
+
+Many of the rich Puerto Ricans have fountains, trees, and flowers in
+these open central courts; a few have roof gardens. Here the family sits
+in the evening to catch the cool sea breezes. Others sit on their
+balconies along the outside of the house, or along the inner court or
+patio.
+
+The patio is the coolest place about the house during the heated hours
+of the day. Here the women bring their sewing or embroidery, and chat.
+It is also the favorite playground of the children, and in its shade the
+men of the household take their afternoon nap.
+
+There are no yards or gardens attached to these houses. The only green
+spots to be found are the inner courts, the public squares or plazas,
+and the garden of the Governor-General's palace.
+
+There is no portion of the city set aside for the rich or the poor.
+People of means, of education, and of refinement live in the upper
+stories. The poor live in crowded rooms and patios, and in basements or
+in dirty alleys.
+
+Many of the wealthy, fashionable people live in the pretty suburban
+towns. Others, who are engaged in business in the cities, live over
+their stores, on the second floor.
+
+The lower floors are occupied by servants, or poor people. To reach the
+upper stories of these buildings, we must pass through a crowd of
+children, dogs, and poultry in the courtyard below.
+
+Upstairs the rooms are large and the ceilings lofty. The windows reach
+to the floor, and the shutters are kept open to admit the air.
+
+The homes of even the wealthy seem to us plainly furnished. There is no
+upholstered furniture. It is too warm for this, they tell us. But wood
+furniture, wickerwork, and willow ware are used.
+
+The floors in the best houses are tiled or are made of hard wood.
+
+Carpets are never used, but rugs are seen occasionally in the center of
+a room.
+
+The bedrooms are small and not well ventilated. The beds are canopied
+and trimmed with fine handmade lace.
+
+The walls are usually bare; but here and there a fine painting may be
+seen. Giant ferns and broad-spreading palm leaves are used to festoon
+the walls and arched doorways. These are cut fresh and renewed from day
+to day, and they make the dark, cool rooms attractive and inviting.
+Within and without the house, potted tropical plants are found.
+
+Peeping into the bath room of one of these homes we see, not a bath
+tub, but a swimming pool large enough to accommodate a young whale.
+
+We think this an improvement on our bath tubs at home, and of the joy it
+would give the average United States boy to add such a feature to his
+own home.
+
+FOOD AND DRINK.
+
+For water the people have, until quite recently, been dependent upon
+cisterns, in which the rain that falls upon the flat roofs is collected.
+These cisterns are in the patio, or courtyard, and an open drain runs
+through the same place.
+
+[Illustration: THE BREAD SELLER.]
+
+Much of the cooking is done here by the poorer people.
+
+It seems to us that cooking in houses without chimneys would be rather
+difficult, but then these people do not use stoves or coal. They cook
+over a small pot, or brazier, or furnace of charcoal.
+
+They cook less food, too, than people who live in the North. They live
+largely on fruits and vegetables and have little meat.
+
+Ice is used only by the families of the wealthy, and it is impossible to
+keep milk or fresh meat for any length of time. In place of ice-water
+the people store water in porous jars, and in this way it is kept cool.
+
+They prepare many refreshing drinks to be used in place of water by
+using oranges, lemons, limes, cocoanuts, and the milk of almonds.
+
+They also indulge very often in little ices, which the venders bring to
+the doors many times a day.
+
+The poorer people, who can not afford to indulge in such expensive
+drinks and ices, use barley water, or water with toasted corn and sugar
+in it.
+
+The people have coffee or chocolate and biscuits for the first or early
+breakfast. The second breakfast is eaten between eleven and twelve
+o'clock, and corresponds to our lunch. Dinner is eaten at six or seven
+o'clock in the evening.
+
+Many of the business men take the morning meal with their clerks at a
+long table on a veranda, or in a room of the establishment. From three
+to four o'clock in the afternoon everyone indulges in a siesta or nap.
+
+Along the wharves and in the outskirts of the city, the houses are but
+one story high, and many of them are built of wood. These houses have
+but one window and are dark and poorly ventilated; yet they are crowded
+with poor people.
+
+Some of them have patches of garden separated by rows or hedges of
+cactus. Here we see brown mothers sitting in the sun mending fish nets.
+Their naked little children are at play near them.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE PEOPLE OF PUERTO RICO.
+
+
+The people of Puerto Rico, on a casual glance, appear to us to come from
+every nation on earth. The first person you meet will be black, the next
+brown, the third yellow, and the fourth white.
+
+After a time we are able to divide them into five classes: the upper
+class of white Puerto Ricans; the lower class of whites, or peasants;
+the negroes; the mixed people of negro and Indian or other blood; and
+the foreigners.
+
+Among these last are Germans, Swedes, Danes, Russians, Frenchmen,
+descendants of Moorish Jews and of natives of the Canary Islands.
+
+All of these people speak Spanish, however, and have the Spanish
+customs, manners, and religion.
+
+Of the 850,000 people, less than one half are colored or of mixed blood.
+
+The upper class of white Puerto Ricans is descended from Spanish stock,
+and in this class are found the wealthy planters and stock raisers, the
+merchants, and the professional men.
+
+They are a happy, good-looking, hospitable, polite, and prosperous
+people. Many of them are fairly well educated.
+
+In appearance these people resemble the Cubans, having regular features
+and dark hair and eyes.
+
+The men are not large, but are well built, erect and graceful.
+
+The women have clear complexions, delicate features, and small hands and
+feet.
+
+Heavy clothing is not worn. The men dress in white (light linen or
+cotton), and the women in cotton or other thin material.
+
+The ladies of the family are secluded very closely. They spend much of
+their time in the patios or on the balconies of their homes,
+embroidering, making lace, and gossiping. They care little for reading
+or for study.
+
+The Puerto Rican is generous and hospitable. He tells you, as does the
+Cuban, that his house and all it contains, his servants, his horses, his
+possessions, are yours to use and to have.
+
+But of course he does not mean that you shall accept these gifts. He
+means that he expects you to use them freely so long as you are a guest
+in his house.
+
+By these well-to-do people, any sort of labor is regarded as degrading
+and altogether out of the question; so they keep many servants. Some are
+paid and some receive only their board and clothes. But all are content.
+
+The working people are of one color, a light brown, with black eyes and
+straight hair. They are rather small and thin; and many of those living
+in the cities are ill-fed and diseased.
+
+They are ignorant and somewhat indolent, but are gentle, quick of wit,
+and teachable. Though cruel to their animals, they are kind to their
+children.
+
+There are many beautiful girls in the lower classes as well as in the
+upper, and these we see on the streets and in the market places.
+
+Many of them use long scarlet shawls and wear black satin slippers on
+their bare, pretty little feet. They are as proud of their little feet
+as of their hands. Some of the girls in the market have hair
+three-quarters the length of their body; but while it is so black and
+abundant, it is extremely coarse. The laboring men cut their hair short
+in the neck, and wear a thick bang on the forehead.
+
+[Illustration: A BEGGAR OF PUERTO RICO.]
+
+In many parts of the island beggars appeal to us with outstretched hand.
+Even the little children are taught to add their mite to the family
+income by begging.
+
+In Ponce these beggars secure a special license to pursue this
+profession and have a regular system. In certain houses, on certain
+days, a little table is placed in the doorway and a row of copper cents
+or coins upon it.
+
+The beggars who are privileged to come to these homes, come at the right
+time, take their pennies, and with a "Thank you!" shamble off.
+
+CHILD LIFE.
+
+Formerly lessons never bothered the small Puerto Rican, or indeed any
+other Puerto Rican child. He played "hookey" all day long, and no truant
+officer disturbed him, or dragged him off to school.
+
+He never saw a schoolhouse or the inside of a schoolroom. He never saw a
+book. But, for that matter, neither did his father or mother. They can
+neither read nor write; nor can many of their neighbors.
+
+The Puerto Rican city child often lives in a crowded basement, with many
+brothers and sisters. The child of poor parents in the cities is not
+usually very clean; but then he has very few opportunities for bathing,
+and his only playground is the courtyard and the streets.
+
+His little country cousins, who live where pools and streams are found,
+spend much of their time in the water. They find it pleasanter to paddle
+in cool streams, beneath overhanging tree ferns and banana trees, than
+to roll in the dirt.
+
+They object, however, to wearing clothes, and are allowed to go without
+any until they are ten or twelve years of age. Even at this age they
+shed briny tears when compelled to put on one cotton garment.
+
+These little country children learn to be helpful at a very early age.
+They fish and catch crabs; weed the garden; dig potatoes; gather fruit,
+vegetables and coffee; and do errands.
+
+But they have one bugaboo, and that is the wild dog. This animal is very
+fierce. It sometimes leaves its hiding place in the forest, with a pack
+of companions, and carries off sheep, pigs, and calves.
+
+If very hungry, it may attack a child; and so the children keep a sharp
+lookout for it.
+
+Children in Puerto Rico sleep on the floor or in a hammock, and they eat
+whenever or wherever they can find fruit or vegetables within their
+reach. Sometimes they smoke, too.
+
+They have no toys, no books, no pictures, no fine clothes or homes; yet,
+for all that, they are cheerful and contented. They have little, but
+they seem to want little.
+
+The children of the wealthy and well-to-do dress and look very much like
+the children in our Southern States; though the babies and very young
+children sometimes wear no clothes.
+
+These children are sent to school, or are taught by a governess or tutor
+at home, until they are old enough to be sent away to school.
+
+Then they are sent to Spain, France, or the United States, to complete
+their education.
+
+The girls study and read very little. It is not considered necessary
+for them to be well educated. They are not allowed to walk about the
+streets alone, but must have a servant, nurse, or attendant from the
+time they leave their cradles until they are married.
+
+EDUCATION IN PUERTO RICO.
+
+Not more than one seventh of the 850,000 people in Puerto Rico can read
+or write. Only one child in twelve, between the ages of six and sixteen,
+attends school. (In 1897, of 125,000 children of school age, only about
+28,000 attended school--about 19,000 boys and 9,000 girls.)
+
+The buildings used for school purposes are seldom anything more than
+thatched huts. Sometimes two or three rooms are given to the school in
+the house where the teacher lives.
+
+Many of the country districts are without schools, and no school
+privileges are provided for three fourths of the people.
+
+The schools are of the old-fashioned, ungraded, district-school type,
+and are for pupils from seven to thirteen years of age.
+
+Pupils are supposed to study arithmetic, geography, grammar, the history
+of Spain, and religion. There are few schoolbooks used. The pupils write
+down what the teacher dictates, or copy what the teacher has written.
+The one book they use is the one from which they learn to read.
+
+Arithmetic problems are often worked out on the floor with bits of clay.
+
+There are from fifty to one hundred and twenty-five pupils in each room,
+and two or three teachers. The pupils sit on long benches or on the
+floor. The boys and girls have separate schools; but the white and the
+colored pupils attend the same school.
+
+The pupils are bright and quick to learn, but there is no discipline in
+the schoolroom. They come and go as they please. They stay at home if
+they wish, and no truant officer disturbs them.
+
+Many remain away from school because of a lack of clothing. Others
+remain away because they prefer to play in the streets. Their parents
+are careless and indifferent to the advantages of an education, and make
+no effort to induce their children to attend school, or to study.
+
+This unfavorable state of things is soon to disappear. The United States
+is now rapidly introducing schools and capable teachers into every part
+of the island. The people seem very glad to take advantage of the better
+order of things.
+
+RELIGION.
+
+The established church of the country is the Roman Catholic; but other
+religions are tolerated, and a few Protestant churches are to be found
+scattered over the island.
+
+The people seem to be little interested in religion or in their
+churches, and Sunday with them is only a fete day or a holiday.
+
+HOW THE PEOPLE AMUSE THEMSELVES.
+
+The people of Puerto Rico have two hundred holidays or feast days in
+their calendar. They are always ready to welcome new ones, however, and
+have within the past year added Washington's birthday and the Fourth of
+July to the list.
+
+Last year they celebrated the Fourth for the first time. In all the
+cities there were speeches in the daytime and fireworks at night. In the
+country there were races and processions in honor of the new "feast
+day," or holiday.
+
+The people show their patriotism and loyalty to the flag of the United
+States in many ways. They are eager and quick to adopt American manners
+and customs.
+
+Just before sunset, the band comes into the Plaza at Ponce and plays the
+"Star Spangled Banner" in front of headquarters as the American flag is
+drawn down for the night.
+
+The Puerto Ricans noticed that the American men took off their hats and
+stood with uncovered heads while the flag made its descent; and now
+they, too, show their loyalty by doffing their hats when the flag comes
+down.
+
+The people of Puerto Rico are extremely fond of music. Strolling bands
+of guitar and mandolin players are numerous; and at evening time the air
+is filled with music.
+
+Each peasant makes his own guitar. It is a very curious instrument. This
+guitar music is usually accompanied by music from another instrument
+called a guida. This is made from the great curve-necked gourd. The
+music or sound is made by passing a piece of umbrella wire up and down a
+series of notches cut from end to end on the outside curve of the gourd.
+
+The sound produced is much like that made by rubbing together two pieces
+of sandpaper. We would not call it music at all, but the natives seem to
+like it. No orchestra is complete without it, and one can hear the
+scratching of this instrument almost any time, at any home in Puerto
+Rico.
+
+Sunday is a day not of rest, but of merry making. During the early
+morning hours the Puerto Ricans go to church. After church, they hurry
+away to the cockpit or to the bull ring in the suburbs of the town.
+
+Very early in the morning we see numbers of roosters staked out by short
+strings to pegs driven in the sidewalks. These are the game-cocks which
+furnish to the Puerto Rican his favorite amusement and opportunity for
+gambling.
+
+They seem to realize their importance and keep up a great crowing,
+sending challenges of defiance back and forth to each other. Their
+owners take good care of them and endeavor to keep them in good
+condition for fighting.
+
+In the market places we see these fowls in wicker coops. Many venders of
+food and other articles have game-cocks tied by strings to their stools
+and stations.
+
+When their owners have nothing else to do, they devote themselves to
+training these birds; or they try to find some one willing to match them
+in a contest.
+
+The buildings where these fights take place are to be found in every
+town and village. They are considered next in importance to the
+cathedral and the town hall, and more important than the schools.
+
+The cock fights are usually held on Sundays and holidays, and last the
+greater part of the day. On the day set for these fights, the birds are
+taken to the arena, descriptions given and amounts wagered. One fight
+follows another, and large sums of money are lost and won.
+
+BURDEN BEARING.
+
+If a country is without good roads, it must employ human
+burden-carriers; and many of these we see in Puerto Rico. Men and women
+walk long distances through the country bearing heavy burdens upon their
+heads, shoulders or backs.
+
+The banana and plantain men carry their fruit fastened to poles. They
+move along quite easily with two hundred pounds or more of fruit. On the
+street and in the market place we hear the singsong notes of the
+vegetable man telling us of the excellence of his wares. These he
+carries on his head on an immense board, sometimes five feet long.
+
+The dulce seller, too, carries his tray of cocoanut dulces, guava jelly
+and other sweets on his woolly pate; as do also the sellers of fruits,
+bread, cakes, bottled cocoanut milk and trinkets.
+
+The hat weaver and the broom maker carry their wares on a shoulder pole,
+with a load fastened to each end so as to balance it.
+
+The milkman carries an open-mouthed ten-gallon milk can on his head.
+From this dangle the ladles and measures he uses.
+
+But he does not always deliver milk in this way. Sometimes he rides up
+in front of the door astride his horse, and shouts "milk" at the top of
+his voice.
+
+On each side of his horse are fastened milk cans, and from these cans he
+ladles without dismounting.
+
+Sometimes he drives his cows before him and milks them at his customer's
+door. This is the favorite method, because the milk is then sure to be
+sweet.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN HAT WEAVER.]
+
+This is not always the case if the milk is carried some distance in the
+hot sun, in uncovered tin cans.
+
+The milkman always comes very early in the morning, and so does the
+baker. If the baker is not on time, we must wait for our breakfast; for
+bread is not baked in the house. It is always bought.
+
+We can hear him long before he reaches our door, for he keeps up a
+plaintive cry in order to attract our attention.
+
+Sometimes our human bread wagon carries a great board or basket on his
+head, and in this are as many as fifty loaves. (See illustration, page
+26).
+
+The butcher, on horseback, brings meat hanging from hooks in frames.
+Much of the poultry is brought to town in great odd wicker coops strung
+across the backs of ponies. Here is a poultry vender at the street
+corner, with his inverted and excited merchandise suspended by strings
+from his shoulder. (See page 22).
+
+HOW THE PEOPLE TRAVEL.
+
+Puerto Rico is a very delightful place to visit, but we do not care to
+go there to live until there are better roads.
+
+There is but one good road on the island, the one leading from San Juan
+to Ponce. There is only one line of street cars (in the city of
+Mayaguez); and there are only one hundred and forty-seven miles of
+railroad in the whole island.
+
+The best roads run along the coast from town to town. There is one
+exception. This is the wonderful military road which connects Ponce, on
+the south shore, with San Juan on the north shore. (See map, page 4).
+
+Parts of the country away from the coasts are reached by bridle paths;
+but the roads outside the cities and towns are impassable during the
+rainy season. Sometimes there is only a bridle path or trail overgrown
+with tangled vegetation, and crossed by streams without bridges.
+
+The means of transportation employed by the people are the pony carriage
+or surrey, the saddle horse, the ox-cart and the foot. The beast of
+burden is either the donkey or the pony. These animals are employed to
+carry goods in packs over the trails, in place of using the wagon.
+
+The ponies are usually small, half-starved, badly treated animals. They
+carry great burdens, that look heavy enough to crush them to the ground.
+
+Their food consists of green corn and grass. One of the commonest sights
+on the road, street, or marketplace is the pony with his load of green
+fodder.
+
+This is usually so large that it covers the animal entirely, but the
+master is always in plain view, sitting astride the moving corn-stack.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN PONY LOADED.]
+
+The planters and farmers have an odd-looking saddle, which they use on
+these ponies. It is a leather pad to which are attached wicker baskets.
+
+The well-to-do farmers who own ponies carry fruit and vegetables in
+these baskets. Sometimes two hogs are brought to market in the baskets,
+with all four feet tied together.
+
+When the farmer takes his family to market, he and his wife ride the
+pony, and the children ride in the baskets.
+
+The ponies also carry bales of grass, trunks, and all kinds of household
+goods, and furniture.
+
+The principal draught animals are oxen. The heavy two-wheeled ox cart
+is used to convey great loads of sugar, coffee, and tobacco or fruit,
+over the good roads.
+
+Great, strong, patient beasts they are. They are yoked by a bar of heavy
+wood fastened to their horns.
+
+They are driven, not with words or whip, but with a goad. The driver or
+teamster walks in front of his team and waves his arms and goad the way
+he wishes them to go.
+
+If they do not follow fast enough to please him, he urges them along by
+prodding them. The end of the goad is shod with a sharp spike of steel,
+three inches or more long. Often we see these oxen dripping with blood,
+and seamed and scarred with wounds.
+
+Besides the pain of this constant goading, they suffer from flies upon
+their face, nose and eyes. Since their heads are bound, they can not
+shake the flies off.
+
+All day they stand or travel in the hot sun without water or food.
+
+Even when they stop or rest, no one thinks of putting them in the shade.
+
+Almost all the people are cruel to their animals, yet they seem not to
+realize that they are doing wrong. It is a custom, that is all.
+
+It makes us wish we might organize a society for the prevention of
+cruelty. It is, perhaps, the only thing that could change this custom.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE FARMER AND HIS HOME.
+
+
+Puerto Rico is a country of farmers. Nearly five-sixths of the people
+live in the country. Their homes are scattered along the valleys, on the
+hills, and even on the mountain tops; for the land is fertile
+everywhere.
+
+[Illustration: THE PUERTO RICAN FARMER IN TOWN.]
+
+We have seen the homes and home life of the people in the city. Now let
+us take a jaunt out into the country to see how the farmers and the
+plantation laborers live.
+
+Here is a farmer now, coming down the street. He is on his way to the
+market. His horse is a thin, mean-looking little beast. His produce is
+carried in baskets, and his machete is sticking out of one of these.
+
+This machete he always carries with him. He could not get along without
+it. It is a large, long, clumsy knife, something like a corn-cutter.
+Sometimes he uses it to cut a way for himself and pony through the
+forest, or on the bridle paths overgrown with plants and vines after the
+rainy season.
+
+When he has sold his load of vegetables and fruit, we will ride out with
+him to his home and visit some of the plantations.
+
+We saw many peasant farmers and laborers in the market place, and found
+them polite, shrewd, bright in conversation, but very ignorant and
+somewhat indolent.
+
+They are quite content with their way of living, and take no thought for
+the future. A Puerto Rican farmer thinks himself rich and fortunate if
+he owns a horse, a cow, some game-cocks, a gun and an acre of land.
+
+He is simple in his tastes and buys little in the market. His rice
+flour, corn meal and coffee he has prepared at home, by pounding in
+wooden mortars or grinding between stones.
+
+His patch of land he plants with corn, sweet potatoes and other
+vegetables. Bananas, plantains and other fruits grow wild and may be had
+for the picking.
+
+His vegetables, fruit and poultry he takes to the market and sells, but
+only when compelled to do so by necessity.
+
+This money is spent for clothing or other articles, or perhaps lost in
+gambling.
+
+Only the lightest kind of clothing is necessary; for the coldest days
+are not so cold as our mild autumn days.
+
+The dress of the farmer consists of a cotton jacket, white shirt and
+check pantaloons. His head is protected from the hot rays of the sun by
+a large broad-brimmed hat. This is made from the grass which grows
+around his doorway. No shoes are needed.
+
+The dress of his wife is a simple white cotton gown, and his children
+wear no clothes at all.
+
+[Illustration: HOME OF A PEASANT FARMER OF THE BETTER CLASS.]
+
+The houses or homes of the peasant farmers are nearly all alike. They
+are built in a few days, from poles and royal palm bark. They are
+thatched with leaves of the palm or with grass. These huts are usually
+divided into two rooms.
+
+There are no chimneys, often no windows, and but one door. A very poor
+house, you think; but then it is only intended for a shelter. It shields
+them from the damp and cool winds of night and the daily rains of the
+rainy season. At other times they live outside.
+
+There is no stove, and of cooking utensils there are few. The cooking is
+done for the most part outside the house, when the weather is dry, on a
+sheet of iron or in an iron kettle. The food is served in gourd dishes
+and eaten with gourd spoons.
+
+During the rainy season the people live in great discomfort. The
+cooking must be done inside the hut at this time. As there is no
+chimney, the room is soon filled with smoke, which can only escape
+through the openings under the eaves.
+
+Would you like to see the furniture of one of these poor cabins? It
+consists of a few calabash shells used for eating vessels; some rude
+earthen pots; a tin cup, perhaps; two or three hammocks made of the bark
+of the palm tree, and a machete.
+
+Bunches of dried herbs and gourds dangle on the walls, but there are no
+pictures, curtains, or ornaments of any kind.
+
+At night the people sleep on the floor, or in hammocks. They spend much
+of the day also in swinging to and fro in their hammocks, smoking, and
+playing on their guitars and other native musical instruments.
+
+By the door the family dog and the naked babies tumble in the dirt.
+Perhaps there is a pig and some poultry; but there is sure to be a
+game-cock or two.
+
+Near the house is the garden. In this are raised sweet potatoes, beans,
+squashes, muskmelons, peppers, gourds, calabashes, bananas and
+plantains.
+
+The farmers we see at work have their oxen harnessed to rude plows by
+the horns. The ground is so rich it is not necessary to plow it very
+deep.
+
+An acre of good land here will produce more vegetables and fruit than in
+most other countries.
+
+Riding through the country we see plantations of coffee, sugar cane or
+tobacco, and also stock farms. Puerto Rico is fertile from the mountain
+tops to the sea. It is rich in pasture lands, shaded with groves of palm
+trees, and watered by hundreds of streams.
+
+Here and there herds of horses and cattle and flocks of sheep graze on
+the plains. When we approach the flocks of sheep, we discover a very
+curious thing. The wool on these sheep is not at all like the wool on
+the sheep raised in our own country. It is more like the hair of the
+goat.
+
+Cattle are highly valued by the people, not only for dairy and food
+purposes, but as beasts of burden and draft.
+
+Outside of the large plantations, crops are raised on a small scale; and
+modern implements and machinery are almost unknown.
+
+[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Most of the land is divided up into very small farms or garden patches,
+or is taken up by groves.
+
+In the interior of the country are many little villages, shut out from
+the rest of the world. We reach them by the narrow horse-trails that
+wind in and out among the mountains.
+
+THE LABORER'S HILLSIDE HOME.
+
+Perched on the hilltops and sides, shaded by banana trees, are the
+picturesque little huts of the laborers. Most of them pay no rent. Land
+owners give them small patches of ground on the hillsides, which they
+themselves do not care to till, in order to have the laborers near or on
+the plantations to assist in cultivating or harvesting the sugar cane,
+tobacco and coffee crops.
+
+Here the peasant laborers build their cabins; and, when there is no work
+for them on the plantations, they tend their gardens in a haphazard way.
+By working a little each day they manage to make a scant living.
+
+Five months of the year they labor for their landlords, receiving about
+fifty cents a day.
+
+The laborer is often paid in plantains. Fifty plantains are a day's pay.
+On this he feeds his family, for the plantain is the Puerto Rican
+peasant's bread.
+
+The plantains left are taken to market and sold. One day a week is lost
+in this way, for the market is often twenty miles away.
+
+Near a stream on the mountain side we see a group of women. Some of them
+are sitting on stones by the bank; others are standing in the hot sun in
+midstream, and all are washing.
+
+It is wash day, and they have brought their clothes here to wash them.
+They have no tubs, wash-boards, clothes-pins, or clothes-lines.
+Sometimes they have no soap. In place of this, they use the seed or
+roots of the soapberry tree.
+
+The soap-seed tree bears several months in the year. The seed is
+inclosed in a yellow skin, and is black, and about the size of a marble.
+The leaf of a vine, called the soap vine is also used for the purpose of
+washing clothes.
+
+The clothes are first soaked in the stream or pond, and then spread
+upon a broad, smooth stone; after which they are pounded with clubs or
+stones. When they are clean, they are spread out upon the bushes to dry
+and bleach.
+
+[Illustration: COOKING THE EVENING MEAL.]
+
+Then the tired women rest under the trees, and chat, and perhaps smoke
+until evening. When the hot sun has gone down in the west, they make
+their damp and dry clothes up into huge bundles, lift them to their
+heads, and plod homeward.
+
+Let us follow them to their homes up on the mountain side. Some of the
+huts are built closely together. Others are scattered about on lonely
+ledges. Shall we go inside one of these huts? The woman who has just
+returned has thrown her burden into a corner.
+
+The fire has been carefully smoldered, and this she now blows into a
+flame and then proceeds to prepare the evening meal.
+
+About the other cottages are women squatting on their heels, gossiping
+with one another. In the ditch near by little children paddle about.
+Their voices are soft and pleasant, and their play merry and
+good-natured. We hear no quarreling.
+
+Now their mother calls them to bring in some sticks for the fire. When
+these are added to the flame, the firelight shines out in the darkness
+and guides the father on his homeward way.
+
+He has been working on the coffee plantation near, and is now climbing
+the narrow, winding path up the hill with his load of plantains. Perhaps
+the wife will cook some for supper.
+
+The children satisfy their hunger, and then creep into their corner or
+hammock and are soon fast asleep.
+
+Out in the darkness we hear the tinkle of a homemade guitar. Now
+another, and then another, takes up the Spanish or Indian air. Perhaps
+the beater of a drum is added to the little band of musicians which has
+gathered in an open space near the small village.
+
+The natives compose much of their own music, and wild, strange melody it
+is. It seems to inspire one with a wish to dance. The Puerto Ricans are
+very fond of this amusement, and when they hear the music of the band,
+they gather around for a frolic.
+
+Once a week, at least, they gather for a dance; and this, with their
+cock-fighting and gambling, is almost their only form of amusement.
+
+Few of these people can write or read. They have no books and can not
+afford to buy even a newspaper.
+
+The life of the peasant in Puerto Rico, you see, is not an easy or
+pleasant one; but he does not suffer from cold or hunger, as do the poor
+in northern countries.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+GLIMPSES OF OTHER CITIES.
+
+
+We have now a very good idea of San Juan and of rural life in districts
+near it.
+
+So let us travel about the island a bit, for glimpses of other parts of
+the country, and of the other important cities.
+
+The most comfortable way to do this would be to make the voyage around
+the island on board the ship, going ashore for sight-seeing when the
+ship makes port for freight.
+
+But this would give us no opportunity to see the interior of the island;
+so we make up our minds to endure poor roads in order to enjoy the mild
+adventures that fall to our lot (as all good travelers should do).
+
+We decide to celebrate the seventeenth of November, the anniversary of
+the discovery of the island, at the place where the ship of Columbus
+first touched land over four hundred years ago.
+
+We find no Pullman cars on the railroad which leaves San Juan for
+Aguadilla; but the novelty of the ride takes the place of the luxuries
+to which we are accustomed at home.
+
+[Illustration: SENDING SUGAR ABROAD.]
+
+The train goes leisurely along at the rate of sixteen miles an hour. We
+are glad that it goes no faster, for it gives us an opportunity to see
+the beautiful country through which we are passing.
+
+The line follows the coast most of the way. Upon one side are frequent
+views of the ocean, and upon the other a constant panorama of wonderful
+scenery.
+
+ARECIBO.
+
+A ride of four or five hours brings us to Arecibo, a town of 7,000
+people, on the north coast. It is the headquarters of the sugar
+industry, and the chief town of one of the most fruitful regions on the
+island.
+
+The harbor is very poor, being little more than an open roadstead. Into
+this harbor empties a small stream called the Arecibo. Goods are
+transported on this river, to and from the town, in flat-bottomed boats,
+with the aid of long poles and by much patient pushing.
+
+Along the river are valuable plantations of sugar and coffee, as also
+fine pastures.
+
+Arecibo boasts one of the most handsome and artistic plazas on the
+island. These plazas are usually paved with stone and devoid of
+vegetation; but this one has a small park in its center, surrounding a
+beautiful fountain.
+
+The cathedral, which faces the plaza, is larger than usual, and more
+modern than most of the church buildings in the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration: CATHEDRAL AT ARECIBO.]
+
+AGUADILLA.
+
+After a night spent in Arecibo we wish to hasten on to Aguadilla, but
+the railroad, we find, will not carry us so far. It ends at Camuy, a few
+miles west of Arecibo. Here we take a carriage for the remainder of the
+journey.
+
+[Illustration: DRYING AND HULLING COFFEE.]
+
+The old-fashioned coaches are drawn by small ponies, and these brave
+little animals carry us up hill and down hill, through deep mud holes,
+over rocks, into and out of ruts, at a terrific pace.
+
+We wonder that the carriage does not break and spill us out. The driver
+lashes the poor beasts until it seems as if his arms must be lame, but
+our protests have no effect on him.
+
+Aguadilla, a quiet, peaceful little city of 5,000, lies on the western
+coast. Here Columbus landed in search of water when he made his second
+voyage.
+
+He found a clear, rippling spring, with the water filled his casks, and
+continued on his way. On the shore stands a cross marking the spot where
+his boat's keel touched the sand.
+
+The town has beautiful trees, and is surrounded by choice grazing-lands.
+It is noted for its fish, sugar-cane, sweet oranges, and lemons.
+
+The cultivation of sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco and cocoanuts furnishes
+the industries of the neighborhood. We find the three establishments for
+the preparation of coffee for market very interesting places to visit.
+
+MAYAGUEZ.
+
+Leaving Aguadilla for Mayaguez, we take the tramway which connects the
+two towns. It is the only one on the island, and the people are very
+proud of it. But oh, what a ridiculous little road!
+
+It is a narrow gauge, not more than forty-seven inches wide. The cars
+are quite diminutive, and do not carry more than ten or twelve people.
+We can ride the length of the road, about two miles, for five cents.
+
+We see long lines of patient oxen plodding their way to the city,
+pulling clumsy carts piled high with oranges. Mayaguez is the market to
+which the best oranges in Puerto Rico come.
+
+Large, sweet, and luscious we find this fruit, the principal food of
+many of the people.
+
+It grows wild by the roadside, in the valleys, everywhere except on the
+hillsides. Such quantities of oranges! It seems as if enough of the
+fruit is grown in Puerto Rico to supply the whole of the United States.
+Yet very few oranges are sent away from the island. They can not be
+shipped profitably until good roads are built.
+
+The city of Mayaguez claims a population of 20,000 people. It has,
+probably, 12,000 to 15,000. It is the great western shipping port, is
+the third largest city, and the prettiest and most attractive city in
+Puerto Rico.
+
+Mayaguez is very different in appearance and customs from the other
+cities. We can scarcely realize that we are on the same island.
+
+The streets are macadamized, wide, shaded by trees, and lined with
+handsome shops and residences. The sidewalks are narrow,--only two can
+walk abreast on them.
+
+The town is well provided with public buildings. It has also three
+hospitals, a home for the destitute, a public library, good waterworks,
+is lighted by electricity, and possesses the only street-car line on the
+island. The principal plaza is a park of grand old shade trees. It
+contains a majestic statue of Columbus.
+
+The citizens are, many of them, coffee planters who have estates near
+the city. Each family of the better class dwells in a home of its own,
+instead of living in second stories.
+
+The poor people of the town are not so poor, or unclean, or shiftless,
+as the poorer classes at the capital.
+
+[Illustration: A VIEW IN PONCE, PUERTO RICO.]
+
+PONCE.
+
+To reach Ponce, the next city we wish to visit, we must use carriages as
+well as railways. It is on the southern side of the island.
+
+Ponce is the largest city in Puerto Rico, having a population of over
+thirty-seven thousand people. The main part is built on a plain about
+three miles from the seashore.
+
+A fine road connects it with Playa, the port, where are found a good
+harbor, large wharves and the more important government offices.
+
+Ponce has wide, clean streets, handsome buildings, and attractive homes.
+Many quaint and picturesque old buildings line its avenues; but in the
+newer parts of the town and in the suburbs the buildings are modern.
+
+It has a military hospital and barracks, two other hospitals, a home for
+the old and poor, gas works, and an ice machine. There are also
+establishments for hulling coffee, drying coffee, distilling rum,
+manufacturing carriages, and grinding sugar. (See illustrations on pages
+54 and 69).
+
+The large central plaza has pretty gardens and a cathedral.
+
+There are three manufactories of chocolate for the use of the people in
+the surrounding country. Sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples and
+cocoanuts are brought here to be shipped to the United States and other
+countries.
+
+Near the city are white-gypsum quarries; also medicinal baths, to which
+many invalids and travelers go.
+
+The only Protestant church in the West Indies is the Episcopal church
+here.
+
+On the outskirts of Ponce is an old cemetery, in which many famous
+Puerto Ricans of an early day were buried. It is quite different from
+our idea of a cemetery. It is one solid mass of masonry built into the
+side of a hill. In this are narrow vaults, one above the other.
+
+[Illustration: A FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+The openings of these vaults look much like bakers' ovens. The bottom
+vaults are used first, and when a body is laid in one of them it is
+sealed up and the name of the deceased graven on the outside. The next
+member of the family who dies is placed in the vault above; and so on,
+each family having a tier of vaults.
+
+As carriages and hearses are rare objects in Ponce, the coffin is
+sometimes carried on the shoulders of men. The procession is often
+composed of those attracted by curiosity, rather than the friends and
+relatives of the deceased.
+
+The people of Ponce are wide-awake, progressive and anxious to better
+their condition. They are also more hospitable and friendly than in
+other towns.
+
+It was here that the American army under General Miles proceeded in
+1898, after landing at Guanica. The troops received a hearty welcome
+from the inhabitants.
+
+The people were glad to be relieved from Spanish rule, and wished to
+have their land annexed to the United States.
+
+A proclamation of welcome was issued to the soldiers, feasts were
+spread, and the stars and stripes floated from many house tops.
+
+THE MILITARY ROAD.
+
+Now we are ready to return to San Juan, going northward over the great
+military road, one of the finest highways in the world.
+
+It is macadamized, is fifty feet wide, ninety-seven miles in length, and
+smooth and even as a boulevard. It crosses mountains which reach a
+height of almost four thousand feet. It winds in and out among the
+coffee-covered hills, giving us a fine view of the green mountains and
+the deep valleys below.
+
+Looking down we see patches of sugar cane and tobacco; groves of
+bananas, cocoanut, and palm trees; hedges of strange growth; unknown
+plants and vines, and fern-covered rocks.
+
+Here and there is a rude cabin surrounded by bread-fruit and banana
+trees. We pass picturesque little towns with blue and yellow houses and
+quaint churches, their spires towering upward. In fifteen hours we would
+reach San Juan, but we delay our journey in order to obtain a closer
+view of the scenery and of the homes of the people.
+
+Many happy hours we spend on the plantations in the country.
+
+During these country rides and visits we get our knowledge of the animal
+and plant life of the island.
+
+Let us stop, then, for a few days, at a country home by the seashore.
+
+A COUNTRY HOME.
+
+The residence of this home we find to be of good size and divided into
+rooms by partitions that reach only half way up to the roof. This is to
+give a free circulation of air. The house is thatched with palm leaves,
+and has a wide veranda running around it.
+
+Mosquito curtains are used to keep out the swarms of sand flies and
+mosquitoes that make the night uncomfortable.
+
+All doors and windows are closed before sunset and not opened until the
+moon is well up. Then large fires are lighted around the house to drive
+the mosquitoes away. This is for our benefit, for the natives do not
+mind these insects as much as we do. But we have other midnight
+visitors.
+
+Large fireflies fly in at the open windows and light up the room with
+their fairy lamps. And such wonderful fireflies, over an inch long!
+
+The people, the children especially, are very fond of these fireflies
+and frequently keep little cages of them for pets. They feed them on
+sugar-cane juice and bathe them as if they were birds.
+
+[Illustration: COUNTRY HOME OF THE BETTER CLASS.]
+
+Little crabs rattle gaily over the floor and sometimes crawl into our
+shoes, where we find them in the morning; friendly but ugly lizards
+croak from the walls and roof, where they pass the night hours in
+catching insects.
+
+These lizards are found in and about most of the houses and are
+harmless, useful little fellows. They are six or seven inches long, of a
+pale, yellowish color, mottled with brown.
+
+Instead of taking a morning bath in our rooms, we take a dip in the warm
+sea water. We find it hot, even very early in the morning; and as we
+walk to the shore in our bathing suits, we make a large palm leaf do
+duty as a sunshade.
+
+When we dress for breakfast we examine our clothes very closely, for the
+centipedes have a disagreeable way of taking strolls over one's clothing
+and the bedding.
+
+Our breakfast consists of turtle eggs, bread fruit, plantain and
+cocoanut milk. Our meals are served on the veranda, and there we spend
+the most of the day. Hammocks are swung from the beams, and, lying in
+them, we drink in the cool sea air and feast our eyes upon the beautiful
+surroundings.
+
+In the shallow water near the shore we find great pink conch shells. The
+fish in them we have made into soup for our dinner, and very good soup
+we find it.
+
+Sometimes we go out in the mountains with our host hunting for game, or
+for mountain cabbage for our dinner. Perhaps others would like to know
+what this mountain cabbage is, and we will tell them. It is the bud of a
+palm tree, a part of the trunk of which, when young, is edible. When
+cooked, it looks like very white cabbage; but the flavor is finer and
+more delicate. It is sometimes eaten raw, as a salad.
+
+The meat for our dinner consists of fish, and the flesh of the
+armadillo, the agouti and the iguana.
+
+These animals are queer looking creatures. As we wish to see them in
+their haunts in the woods and fields, we will accompany our host on some
+long walks and drives, in order to find out more about them.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ANIMAL LIFE.
+
+
+When Columbus visited the West Indies, he was delighted by the beauty in
+and about them. "I know not," he said, "where first to go; nor are my
+eyes ever weary with gazing on the wonderful verdure. The singing of the
+birds is such as to make one wish never to depart."
+
+The wonderful beauty of the country of which he spoke is unchanged; but
+we listen and look in vain for the singing birds. The hunter's gun has
+caused the disappearance of large numbers of the birds. Those remaining
+are found only in the forests.
+
+Columbus spoke also of the flocks of parrots "whose bright wings
+obscured the sun"; but we seldom see the brilliant plumage of these
+birds on our excursions.
+
+BIRDS.
+
+There are said to be about one hundred and fifty kinds of birds on the
+island of Puerto Rico. Among these are the mocking bird, the wild
+canary, the sugar bird, the thrush, the humming bird, the owl, the hawk,
+the dove, the cuckoo, the oriole, the nightingale, and the Guinea bird.
+During the migrating season, many other birds fly over from other
+islands.
+
+Flamingoes and other water birds are numerous on the coast.
+
+There is a parrot market in every port, however, and this is a popular
+place of resort. Here are cool trees and drinking stands, or booths,
+where cocoanut milk and cool drinks are sold.
+
+The birds are not usually confined to cages, but are left to climb
+about the booths. The natives love these birds and make great pets of
+them. The birds are tame and quite accomplished in the art of begging.
+When the passer-by extends his hand, they walk into it for the sake of
+the gifts which they know will come.
+
+But the bird which is oftenest seen is the fighting or game-cock. The
+streets and market places are full of these. They are the pets and often
+the most valued possessions of their owners.
+
+OTHER ANIMAL LIFE.
+
+[Illustration: THE ARMADILLO]
+
+The scorpions, centipedes, wasps, sand flies, fleas and mosquitoes
+manage to make things lively for us much of the time.
+
+One enterprising and annoying insect, the chigoe, or "jigger," is able
+to bore a hole through the sole of a shoe and attack the foot.
+
+There are no poisonous serpents or dangerous wild animals in the
+country; so we travel about through field and forest without fear.
+
+The boa, which is occasionally seen, is huge and alarming in
+appearance; but it is looked upon as a friend rather than an enemy. It
+is of great service to the farmer in clearing his place of rats.
+
+The largest native animals we find to be the armadillo, the agouti, and
+the iguana.
+
+The agouti is a little animal resembling a rabbit. It lives on vegetable
+food, and finds a home in the rocky hillsides and on the borders of the
+woods. As game is not plentiful, it is sometimes used for food.
+
+The armadillo and iguana are preferred for food, however. It is not an
+easy matter to catch an armadillo. It has a shell on its back, and into
+this it promptly retreats at the first sign of danger. It has a long,
+pointed snout and strong, sharp claws. It can dig a hole in the ground
+almost as fast as a man can dig with a pick and spade; so, when an enemy
+appears, it digs a hole and buries itself from sight. It is not a
+troublesome animal. It lives chiefly upon beetles, grubs and worms,
+which it hunts by night.
+
+The iguana is a lizard which feeds on fruits and vegetables. It grows to
+three or four feet in length, and is an ugly looking creature. It will
+not fight unless you compel it to do so. It does not live in the water,
+but in trees, bushes, and in the cracks and fissures of rocks. Sometimes
+hunters build fires at the entrance of their hiding places and smoke
+them out. The flesh, when cooked, resembles chicken or veal, and is a
+popular dish with the natives.
+
+But the most delicious meat of all comes from the land crabs and the
+crayfish. These are caught in great numbers when the crabs migrate from
+the mountains to the coast. Once a year they make this journey, for the
+purpose of depositing their eggs in the sand.
+
+The sea fisheries are important to the people of Puerto Rico. The coast
+waters and fresh water streams swarm with fishes of strange shapes and
+gaudy colors.
+
+Among these are the shad, sardines, Spanish mackerel, dolphins, flying
+fish, sting rays and sharks. The sponge, the manatee and the whale are
+also found near the island.
+
+Suppose some one were to ask you to what kingdom the sponge belonged.
+Could you tell? Many years ago people believed that it belonged to the
+vegetable kingdom; but it is now known to belong to the animal kingdom.
+
+The animals attach themselves to rocks, shells and other hard substances
+below water.
+
+Mussels, clams and sponges are cultivated to some extent. Mollusks are
+useful in many other ways than as food. Their shells are used for making
+buttons, parasol handles and shirt studs. Sometimes they are used for
+making roads. Many shiploads of these shells are brought to New York
+from Puerto Rico and other parts of the West Indies every year.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+PLANT LIFE.
+
+
+Puerto Rico seems to us to be one big flower garden. All kinds of fruit
+grow wild and most wild plants blossom and bear fruit several times a
+year.
+
+Cultivated fruits, flowers and vegetables are planted several times a
+year in order that a fresh supply may always be at hand. Flowers bloom
+every month of the year, but are most plentiful in June. Ferns, in some
+instances, grow to spreading trees, with graceful drooping fronds. Many
+plants have colored leaves which are as brilliant as the flowers
+themselves.
+
+[Illustration: BRANCH AND FRUIT OF THE CACAO TREE.]
+
+Everywhere grow trees and shrubs valuable for their fruit or for their
+medicinal qualities.
+
+The leading crops are sugar cane, coffee and tobacco. Over one-half of
+the exports consists of coffee, and a little less than one-fourth, of
+sugar. Cacao and fruits make a large part of the remainder.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN SUGAR MILL.]
+
+Rice forms the chief food of the laboring classes, and this grows, not
+on the wet lowlands, as in our country, but on the mountain sides.
+
+Bananas and plantains are two of the important food products. Next to
+these, the yam and the sweet potato form the diet of the natives.
+
+Among the fruit trees we find cocoanut palms, tamarinds, prickly pears,
+guavas, mangoes, bananas, oranges, limes, cacao (or cocao) trees and
+lemons.
+
+Among the spices found here are the pimento, or allspice, nutmeg, clove,
+pepper, mace, cinnamon, ginger, and vanilla.
+
+The hills are covered with forests, which, yield valuable timber and dye
+woods. Among these are mahogany, cedar, ebony, and lignum-vitae trees.
+Logwood and other dye materials are common.
+
+Many varieties of the palm flourish here,--the cocoanut palm producing
+fruit in greater abundance than in any other country of the West Indies.
+
+THE COCOA PALM.
+
+The most abundant cocoanut groves in the world are said to be found on
+Puerto Rico and the other islands of the Antilles. This tree usually
+grows near the coast, for it loves the salt water; but it is sometimes
+found on the hill slopes a short distance inland.
+
+"The tree grows to a height of from sixty to eighty feet, lives a
+hundred years, bears a hundred nuts each year, and is said to have a
+hundred uses for man."
+
+The trees bear such heavy burdens of fruit that it seems impossible that
+so slender a trunk could hold such a weight of fruit in the air. The
+fruit is expensive when it comes to us, because of the difficulty in
+climbing the trees, gathering the nuts, and removing from them the heavy
+fibrous husks.
+
+[Illustration: GATHERING COCOANUTS.]
+
+Here is a negro gathering cocoanuts. Let us watch him. He climbs the
+tall tree, dragging a rope after him. About his waist is a belt in which
+is thrust a machete.
+
+He hacks off a bunch of the nuts and attaches it to the end of the rope.
+It is then lowered to another negro or to the ground. The nuts are in
+bunches of a dozen or two, and are covered with a green, smooth, shining
+covering.
+
+After the bunches of nuts are all removed from the tree, the climber
+throws down the rope and comes down hand over hand.
+
+These nuts are so large that a single one often yields two glasses of
+milk.
+
+We found that the natives made boats and furniture, as well as houses,
+from the trunk of this palm tree. They extract from its roots a remedy
+for fever. The foot stalks of the leaves are made into combs. The leaves
+are used for thatching huts and in making baskets, mats and hats.
+
+The fibrous material at the base of the foot stalks is used for sieves,
+and woven into clothing. A medicine is made from the flowers, and from
+the flower-stalks palm wine is made. From the juice is made sugar and
+vinegar. From the fruit or nut, water, jelly and meat are obtained. Oil
+is extracted from the kernel; and the refuse is used for food for fowls
+and cattle, as well as for manure.
+
+From the husks ropes, brooms, brushes, and bedding are made. The shells
+are used as lamps, cups, spoons, and scoops.
+
+It has been called the poor man's tree because it gives him food, drink,
+medicine and material with which to build his home.
+
+The tropics could not do without the palm. It is more to that region
+than the pine is to the north.
+
+THE CALABASH TREE.
+
+Another very useful tree to the natives is the calabash, or gourd tree.
+It provides him with many household utensils. In height and size it
+resembles an apple tree. Its leaves are wedge-shaped and its flowers are
+large, whitish and fleshy.
+
+The fruit is something like a gourd and often a foot in diameter. The
+shell of the fruit is so hard that it is not easily broken by rough
+usage or burnt by exposure to fire. It is used instead of bottles, cups,
+basins, dishes, pots and kettles, and to make musical instruments.
+
+Sometimes the calabashes are polished, carved, dyed or otherwise
+ornamented. The pulp of the fruit is used as a medicine.
+
+THE TRAVELER'S TREE.
+
+One of the most curious and beautiful trees on the island is the
+traveler's tree. It is so named because it contains in its leaves and at
+their bases a large quantity of pure water.
+
+By piercing the leaves with a spear or pike the water is drawn out, and
+found cool and refreshing. It often relieves the thirst of the traveler
+in this warm country.
+
+BREAD FRUIT.
+
+Among the fruit products used in large quantities are the bread-fruit
+and bread-nuts. These trees grow very large and have wide-spreading
+branches about fifty feet from the ground.
+
+The leaves are, very broad, and the fruit looks something like an ovoid
+osage orange as large as one's head.
+
+[Illustration: BREADFRUIT.]
+
+The fruit is best when picked green, and baked in an oven or in the
+ashes, after paring away the outer skin or rind. When done it resembles
+a browned loaf of bread. It is very good and, wholesome, too; but it
+tastes more like baked plantain than bread.
+
+The bread-nuts look on the outside like the bread-fruit, but the inside
+contains a great mass of closely packed nuts like large chestnuts. These
+are not good raw, but are fine when baked or boiled.
+
+ANNOTTO.
+
+We have often heard people speak of butter and cheese being colored, but
+did not know that the dairyman was obliged to send to the West Indies
+for his dye. The bush which provides it is called the annotto or
+annatto. It grows to the size of the quince tree. The leaves are
+heart-shaped; and the rosy flowers are followed by fuzzy red-and-yellow
+pods, something like chestnut burs.
+
+These small burs are filled with a crimson pulp containing many seeds.
+This pulp is immersed in water a few weeks, strained and boiled to a
+paste. The paste is made into cakes and dried in the sun. Then it comes
+to our country and appears upon our tables in butter or cheese.
+
+Can you tell me where bay rum comes from? We have often wondered, and
+find here an answer to the question. It is furnished by the bay tree,
+which grows here. The leaves are distilled and the oil extracted from
+them to furnish this perfume for the bath.
+
+SPICES.
+
+Spices, in some form, are served every day upon our table; yet few of us
+know where they come from, or where, how, or upon what they grow.
+
+We have heard of the Spice Islands, perhaps, and we just take it for
+granted that they all grow there. We are very much surprised, then, to
+find many of the spices in Puerto Rico.
+
+ALLSPICE, OR PIMENTO.
+
+The pimento spice is native to this soil. The groves of these trees are
+beautiful. The trees grow to a height of thirty feet, their stems are
+smooth and clean, and their leaves glossy.
+
+[Illustration: BRANCH AND BUD OF PIMENTO (ALL-SPICE).]
+
+The trees bear fruit when about seven years old. The berries are
+gathered green and dried in the sun. The branches to which the berries
+are attached are broken off by boys and thrown to girls and women, who
+pick off the berries, and take them to the drying places. One tree
+sometimes bears a hundred pounds.
+
+The tree likes the hills and mountains along the sea, a hot climate and
+a dry atmosphere.
+
+THE NUTMEG TREE.
+
+The nutmeg tree grows to a height of thirty to fifty feet. The ripe
+fruit looks somewhat like the apricot on the outside. It bursts in two
+and shows the dark nut covered with mace, a bright scarlet. This is
+stripped off and pressed flat. The shells are broken open when perfectly
+dry, and the nuts powdered with lime to prevent the attacks of worms.
+
+The tree bears the sixth or seventh year,--the nuts becoming ripe six
+months after the flower appears. Twenty thousand nuts are sometimes
+gathered from one tree.
+
+Other important growths we find to be pepper, which begins to bear when
+five years old and may bear for thirty years; the vanilla bean, which
+proves to be very profitable when properly cared for; and cacao, which
+requires eight years to come to full fruitage, but is an invaluable
+plant.
+
+MINERALS.
+
+Puerto Rico has no mines or minerals of any consequence, except a little
+iron. Foundries for magnetic iron have been established at Ponce, San
+Juan and Mayaguez.
+
+Gold, silver, copper and coal are known to exist in small quantities
+beneath the surface, but not in sufficient amount to be mined.
+
+The island is well supplied with limestone, which makes an excellent
+building material. Marble, also, is easily obtained. Along the coast are
+occasional marshes where salt is prepared for market.
+
+OUR JOURNEY'S END.
+
+Our month in Puerto Rico is drawing to a close, and the good ship which
+is to bear us homeward is waiting in the harbor.
+
+We make a last farewell tour of the shops in San Juan, and buy a few
+gifts for the friends at home: a green parrot to please sister; a
+tortoise-shell comb for mother; a cane for father, a native hat for
+brother, and a calabash drinking bowl for the school museum.
+
+It is with reluctant steps that we make our way to the ship. The clear
+sky, the perfect climate, the constant verdure, the wonderful plants and
+trees, and the beautiful mountain scenery make Puerto Rico one of the
+most attractive lands to be found anywhere.
+
+Although the roads are in a deplorable condition, a new system has been
+planned, and will probably be soon completed.
+
+Though the country may lack school buildings, the cities and towns are
+better provided with other public buildings than most places of the same
+size in the United States. And the eagerness with which the people seize
+upon the statements that their children are to be given the same
+opportunity for an education as children in the United States have,
+indicates that the schoolhouses will soon dot the island.
+
+The streets of the smallest villages are paved, and all contain some
+place of recreation and attempts at ornamentation. Each village has one
+or more public squares laid out with trees, walks, flowers, seats, and
+usually with a band stand in the center.
+
+We do not find these improvements in all our own small towns. But the
+people need better schools, more nourishing food, and improved methods
+of farming. Sanitary measures need to be introduced into the homes and
+communities. Harbors need to be dredged, that ships may come closer to
+land. The water power of many rushing streams needs to be chained and
+made to generate electricity, to grind corn, to hull coffee, to cook
+food, to pull cars, and to light cities.
+
+There should also be fountains, baths, and sewers; the land in certain
+sections should be irrigated, and the streams should be bridged, that
+means for travel and transportation may be afforded.
+
+Perhaps all this will be done, ere we visit this island again. At any
+rate, we sincerely hope that this may be the beginning of a new and
+better day for Puerto Rico.
+
+[Illustration: PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY.]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+REFERENCE BOOKS.
+
+
+ "Our New Possessions," by Trumbull White. Cloth, 676 pp........$2.00
+ "Puerto Rico and Its Resources," by Frederick A. Ober.......... 1.50
+ "The West Indies," by A. K. Fisk. 414 pp....................... 1.50
+ "Porto Rico," Hall............................................. 1.00
+ "Porto Rico," Rector........................................... 1.25
+ "Porto Rico," Dinwiddie........................................ 2.50
+ "Porto Rico," Robinson......................................... 1.50
+ "The West Indies and the Main"................................. 1.75
+ "At Last" and "A Christmas in the West Indies," Kingsley.......
+ "Three Cruises of the Blake," Alexander Agassiz. 2 vol......... 8.00
+ "Down the Islands," Palon...................................... 2.50
+ "The West Indies," Fiske....................................... 1.50
+ "In the Wake of Columbus," Ober................................ 2.00
+ "Due South," Ballou............................................ 1.50
+ "The Foreign Commerce of Our Possessions," etc., Treasury
+ Department, Washington.....................................
+ "Porto Rico," National Geographic Magazine, '99, 25 cts.
+ a number; per year......................................... 2.00
+
+These books may be obtained from A. FLANAGAN Co., Chicago, Ill., at
+price given. Considerable reductions may be secured, if several volumes
+are purchased at one time.
+
+
+
+
+TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT
+
+ * * * * *
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+
+ * * * * *
+
+SPECIAL SUGGESTIONS.
+
+
+Children love to read or hear of the people of other lands, and the
+tactful teacher will wrap her information about the natural features of
+a country in the "sugared pill of stories."
+
+Books of travel are helpful and interesting in linking together fact and
+story. From them the child comes to feel a sympathetic interest in the
+ways of people unlike those he knows.
+
+By emphasizing the idea of continuity of beliefs and customs, we impress
+the child with the most important lesson history and geography hold for
+him,--that all countries and peoples are closely related and have mutual
+interests.
+
+"The acquisition of this feeling of the inter-relationship of the
+nations of the world, while starting the child out with a broad view of
+life, will in no wise lessen his love for his own country."
+
+Too often the lonely little stranger in our midst--the foreigner--is
+viewed with heartless curiosity, or contempt, and subjected to ridicule.
+Patriotism to many a child means nothing more than a belief that our own
+country is the best, our own people the smartest, and that we can whip
+any and every other nation on the globe.
+
+Do the children know that the "blood that boils so hotly against other
+countries is drawn from the very same sources that feed the veins of our
+seemingly alien neighbors"?
+
+If any teacher imagines that her pupils have a definite idea of the
+meaning of patriotism because they are able to sing "America" and the
+"Star-Spangled Banner," let her read Marion Hill's story, entitled "The
+Star-Spangled Banner," in McClure's Magazine for July (1900).
+
+THE TRAVEL CLASS.
+
+Nothing in the study of geography is more interesting or helpful to
+pupils than the taking of imaginary journeys. It makes geography a
+_live_ subject.
+
+Suggest that your pupils organize a Travel Club, and that some of the
+trips be personally conducted.
+
+Maps and a globe should be in constant use. The home should be the
+starting point. Railroad circulars, maps, and time-cards for free
+distribution will be found valuable. Pupils should be taught _how to
+use_ these maps and time cards.
+
+Give pupils a choice as to routes or roads over which they are to
+travel. Each pupil, however, should be able to give a reason for his
+preference for any particular road, and must know the number of miles
+and the time required for the journey. The road or route voted upon by
+the majority may then be decided upon, and preparations made for the
+trip.
+
+Find out the best time to go to each particular country, and the reason.
+What clothes it will be best to wear and to take with one. About how
+much money it will be necessary to spend on such a trip, and when and
+where this money should be changed into the coin or currency used in the
+country we expect to visit.
+
+A _Guide_ may be appointed to obtain time-tables, maps, railroad guides,
+the little books of travel, or other descriptions of routes and of the
+parts of the country that are to be visited. (Further suggestions in
+regard to these "helps" will be found elsewhere in this book.)
+
+The principal features of the country passed through may be described,
+if time permits; also the more important cities. Note the population,
+occupations, productions, together with anything of special interest or
+historical importance associated with the city or locality.
+
+The _Guide_ takes charge of the class in the same way that a tourist
+guide would do. He escorts us from the home depot to the city, state, or
+country, pointing out the route on a map suspended before the class.
+
+Arriving at the city or country, he takes us to the various points of
+interest, telling as much about each as he is able, and answering
+questions pupils may wish to ask. If the guide can not answer all
+questions, the teacher or some other member of the party may.
+
+When the guide has finished with a topic or section, other members of
+the party may give items of interest concerning it.
+
+A different pupil may act as guide to each city or part of the country
+visited, and each pupil should come to the class with a list of
+questions about the places.
+
+Every pupil in the class may take some part, either as guide, or as the
+class artist, musician, librarian, historian, geographer, geologist,
+botanist, zoologist, or man of letters.
+
+A _Historian_ may tell us of the history of the country, and answer all
+questions of historical interest.
+
+A _Geographer_ may tell of the location on the globe, of the natural
+land formations of mountains, canons, prairies, rivers, etc., and of the
+climate resulting from these. He should illustrate his remarks.
+
+A _Geologist_ may assist, and show specimens of minerals and fossils, or
+pictures of these.
+
+A _Botanist_ may tell us of native plants, useful or ornamental, and
+show pictures of these if possible. A _Zoologist_ tells of the native
+animals, their habits and uses.
+
+The geographer, geologist, botanist, and zoologist direct the work at
+the sand table, and assist in reproducing the country in miniature.
+
+The _Merchants_ and _Tradesmen_ tell us of the products for which their
+country is noted, and show samples of as many as it is possible to
+secure. They also tell what they import, and why.
+
+A _Librarian_ or Correspondent may visit the library for information
+sought by the club. He must be able to give a list of books of travel,
+and be ready to read or quote extracts referring to the places visited
+on the tour.
+
+He or his assistant may also clip all articles of interest from papers,
+magazines, and other sources, and arrange these, as well as the
+articles secured by other pupils, in a scrapbook, devoted to each
+country.
+
+The _Artist_ and his assistant may tell us about the famous artists and
+their works, if any. He may illustrate his remarks with pictures, if he
+can obtain or make them.
+
+The _Club Artist_ may also place upon the board in colored crayons the
+flag, the coat of arms, and the national flower of the country.
+
+A _Photographer_ may be appointed to provide or care for the photographs
+and pictures used in the class talks. The photographs may often be
+borrowed from tourists or others. Pictures may be obtained from
+magazines, railroad pamphlets, the illustrated papers, or from the Perry
+Pictures, and mounted on cardboard or arranged by the artist in a
+scrapbook with the name of the country on the cover.
+
+If the members of the travel or geography class are not provided with
+the "LITTLE JOURNEYS," the teacher should have at least two copies. The
+pictures from one of these books should be removed and mounted for class
+use. They may be mounted on a screen, or on cardboard, and placed about
+the room or grouped in a corner. They should be allowed to remain there
+during the month, that all the pupils may have an opportunity to examine
+them.
+
+Another pupil may collect curiosities. Many families in each
+neighborhood will be able to contribute some curio. Pupils in other
+rooms in the building will be interested in collecting and loaning
+material for this little museum and picture gallery.
+
+Coins and stamps may be placed with this collection. Begin a stamp
+album, and collect the stamps of all the countries studied. The stamps
+of many countries show the heads of the rulers. One of the most
+attractive of these is the United States postage stamp showing "Columbus
+in Sight of Land."
+
+The album should be kept on the reading table with the scrapbooks, in
+order that pupils may have access to it during their periods of leisure.
+
+Dolls may be dressed in the national costume or to represent historical
+personages.
+
+This form of construction work may be done outside of school hours by
+pupils under the direction of the historian and artist. The dolls, when
+dressed, may be made the centers of court, home, field or forest scenes
+arranged on the sand table.
+
+A _Musician_ or musicians may tell us of the characteristic music of the
+country, and of famous singers or composers. She may also sing or play
+the national song or air of the country, if there be one.
+
+The singer should be dressed in national costume, if it is possible to
+secure it, or to make it out of calico, paper, or some other cheap
+material.
+
+A _Man of Letters_ may tell of the famous men and women of the country
+through which we are traveling, and may visit their homes with us. He
+may call attention to the literature of the people and give selections
+from noted writers, from or about the places visited.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP.
+
+With maps, guide-books, time-tables and notebooks before us, we look up
+the steamer lines and routes and decide when, where, and how to go.
+(Good maps will be found in the railroad guide-books).
+
+City newspapers publish once a week the lines of steamboats and their
+times of sailing. The steamboat agents also furnish advertising matter
+giving other necessary and interesting information.
+
+When we have decided upon our route, we telegraph ahead for our
+staterooms. Now let us plan for our baggage. What kind of a trunk must
+we take? Why a steamer trunk? How large must this be? What will we do
+with this trunk when we leave the boat? (We are advised to leave it and
+part of its contents at the ship company's office. They will store it
+until we are ready to take the return trip). How many pounds of baggage
+are we allowed on the steamer?
+
+What other baggage shall we take (hand bags)? Why not small trunks?
+(Because every pound of baggage must be paid for in some countries.)
+Many countries have not our convenient system of checking baggage. What
+else will we need? (Traveling rugs.)
+
+What clothes must we take? First, we must take warm clothes for steamer
+wear, which may be packed away when we arrive. Then we must take
+traveling suits for train wear, and thin clothing to use after arriving
+at our destination.
+
+We have promised friends at home that we will inform them of our safe
+arrival immediately. How can we do this? By mail? Is there not a quicker
+way? How many know of the cable? How many have ever sent a cablegram?
+Can we cable from Puerto Rico? How much will it cost? Our guide-books
+give us all this information.
+
+We must have guide-books, phrase books, toilet articles and writing
+materials. These should be packed in linen or canvas bags, because more
+easily carried about than heavy leather satchels.
+
+Our guide must be able to speak Spanish, for that is the language of the
+Puerto Rican people.
+
+If one of our party acts as guide, we must be careful to select a
+polite, tactful, and, above all, a patient and good-natured person.
+Why?--Because his patience will be severely taxed many times during this
+trip.
+
+Arriving at the city from which we are to sail, we visit points of
+interest, the docks especially, and compare our steamer with others,
+learning what we can about all the ships in the harbor.
+
+If our lesson is well planned, we can accomplish a great deal the day we
+sail.
+
+CLASS WORK.
+
+After two or three conversational lessons, let pupils begin their
+diaries (composition books). In these may be written descriptions of
+what they see, hear, or read about the place being studied or visited.
+
+In most schools will be found one or more pupils who have been upon or
+crossed the ocean. Let them give both oral and written descriptions of
+the voyage.
+
+In giving accounts of these journeys, have pupils describe the incidents
+and details of everyday life on ship-board. They may tell of the ship,
+its furnishings, rigging, engines, officers and crew.
+
+Let them also describe the dining room, the meals, and the manner of
+serving.
+
+They may further describe a stateroom or berth, and picture their fellow
+passengers in words or drawings.
+
+It will greatly cultivate their power of expression to tell how the time
+on board the vessel was passed, and to narrate any interesting
+occurrences of the voyage. They may describe the ocean by day and by
+night; also its appearance in a storm.
+
+Many will be interested in descriptions of the birds that were met and
+of the fishes that swarmed about the ship.
+
+If time will not permit each pupil to give oral descriptions or to write
+compositions on each topic, assign a different topic to each pupil. Bind
+all papers together, when finished, to keep with scrap-books devoted to
+the country visited.
+
+These diaries or reproduction stories may be illustrated with pictures
+clipped from illustrated papers and other sources or by original
+drawings.
+
+Try to secure specimens of seaweed to be exhibited to pupils during the
+lesson on the sea voyage. Ask pupils to secure ocean shells, sponges,
+pictures of sea birds, and specimens or pictures of other animal and
+plant life in the ocean.
+
+AFTERNOONS ABROAD.
+
+At the conclusion of the study of a country, a topic may be assigned to
+each pupil, or selected by him. With this topic he is to become
+thoroughly familiar.
+
+In place of the old-time review, invitations may be issued by the
+pupils, and the results of the month's work be summed up in the form of
+an entertainment, called--
+
+AFTERNOONS OR EVENINGS ABROAD.
+
+When a class, club, or school has been studying a country, the work may
+be brought to a close in a way that pupils and their parents and friends
+will enjoy and remember, by giving _An Afternoon or Evening Abroad_.
+
+This form of geography review would be appreciated more particularly in
+villages, or in country districts, where entertainments, books,
+pictures, and opportunities for study and social intercourse are rarer
+than in cities.
+
+At the conclusion of an afternoon talk or entertainment, any pictures
+used may be placed on the chalk tray along the blackboard, that visitors
+may examine them more closely.
+
+If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be able to
+use stereopticon views.
+
+These will prove a very great attraction to both pupils and parents, and
+should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp may be easily
+operated by the teacher while the pupils give the descriptions of the
+pictures or give talks about the country.
+
+The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or afternoon at
+reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee of from ten
+to twenty-five cents. In sending for catalogue and terms, ask for the
+paper used to darken windows if the lantern is to be used in the
+afternoon.
+
+Two of the largest dealers in stereopticon views and lanterns are T. H.
+McAllister, 49 Nassau St., New York, and the McIntosh Stereopticon Co.,
+35 Randolph St. Chicago.
+
+SUGGESTIONS.
+
+For the afternoons abroad, given as geography reviews, or as a part of
+the Friday afternoon exercises, invitations may be written out by the
+pupils, or mimeographed, or hectographed, and carried to friends and
+parents.
+
+If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by stereopticon
+views, handbills may be printed and circulated, at least a week
+beforehand. The following form may be used:--
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT.
+
+A TRIP TO PUERTO RICO FOR TEN CENTS.
+
+You are invited by the pupils of the _____________ school [or the
+members of the Travel Class or Club] to spend _an evening_ [_or
+afternoon_] _in Puerto Rico_.
+
+The party starts promptly at 1.30 P.M. [or 8 P.M.], November 1st. Those
+desiring to take this trip should secure tickets before the day of
+sailing, as the party is limited. Guides are furnished free.
+
+The proceeds of this entertainment are to be used in the purchase of a
+library, and of pictures and stereopticon views for the school.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+A PUERTO RICAN MARKET PLACE.
+
+Decorate the room with ferns, potted palms and other tropical plants, or
+pictures of them. (Exact reproductions in paper or other material can
+now be procured at small cost.) On one side of the room have one table
+devoted to Puerto Rican curios; another to fruits and vegetables; and a
+third to other products from the island. (Or fit up one end or corner as
+a market place in San Juan or Ponce.)
+
+Explain your plan for the entertainment to your groceryman and other
+merchants most convenient to your school, and enlist their aid. They
+will usually be willing to lend products imported from or native to the
+country.
+
+For a list of the fruits and vegetables to be exhibited in the market
+place, see the list given when on a visit to the market place at San
+Juan. (See p. 22).
+
+On the product-tables arrange pieces of sugar cane, samples of raw,
+loaf, granulated, and powdered sugar, and of molasses. If possible to
+secure the stalks of sugar cane, have short lengths to be sold for
+consumption--as in Puerto Rico. Near the table, tack up pictures of
+sugar plantations and mills. Have the coffee-berry and beans, ground
+coffee, cups of coffee prepared as a drink, and pictures of the tree,
+fruit, and coffee plantations; also secure specimens of the fruit of the
+cacao tree, a cake of solid chocolate, chocolate candy, and a cake
+containing chocolate layers. Cups of cacao or chocolate may be prepared
+as a drink. Have near pictures of the cacao tree and fruit.
+
+Secure, if possible, samples of rice, allspice, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon,
+pepper, cloves, ginger and vanilla; bottles of clove oil and bay rum;
+packages of the annatto and logwood dyes; sponges, tortoise-shell combs,
+and articles made of cedar, ebony, or mahogany, or pieces of these
+woods.
+
+The tables and booths in the market places should be presided over by
+pupils dressed as Puerto Ricans, and venders should go about the room,
+after the entertainment is over, with native wares to sell.
+
+Among these venders will be the bread man, the milk man, the fruit and
+vegetable man, the dulce seller, and the vender of ices.
+
+These venders should, if possible, carry their wares as the Puerto
+Ricans do.
+
+
+COSTUMES.
+
+The girls may be costumed in very simply made white dresses.
+Handkerchiefs may be tied about the head, for head coverings.
+
+The boys may be dressed in loose white trousers, girdled at the waist by
+a belt of leather, a white shirt, and a silk or cotton handkerchief
+around the neck.
+
+A broad brimmed hat may be worn.
+
+The dulce seller carries guava, pieces of pineapple, preserved fruits,
+chocolate candy, fresh cocoanut meat, grated cocoanut, etc.
+
+The bread vender carries small rolls on his tray. The milk man carries
+his can upon his head, ready to serve milk from tin cups which are tied
+to the sides of the can.
+
+
+REFRESHMENTS.
+
+These may be served during an intermission or at the close of the
+entertainment, and may consist of the national drinks, orangeade,
+lemonade, chocolate, coffee, cocoanut milk, and of rolls, cheese, native
+fruits and confectionery.
+
+The pupils who serve these refreshments should be prepared to tell
+something of the way in which these refreshments are prepared and served
+in Puerto Rico.
+
+One of the favorite drinks of the people of Puerto Rico is orangeade.
+This is made as we make lemonade, except that the juice of the orange is
+used in place of that of the lemon. In making lemonade they use limes
+more frequently than lemons.
+
+Coffee and chocolate are drinks also very much in use. The chocolate is
+made about the consistency of thick gruel and served with a light, thin
+cake.
+
+The coffee is made very strong and only a small amount placed in the
+cup. The cup is then filled with boiling milk.
+
+Among the favorite sweetmeats are the guava jelly and marmalade. The
+jelly looks much like our currant jelly; the marmalade resembles quince
+marmalade. It is usually served with cheese.
+
+Secure some of these sweetmeats for the booth or shop, and serve bits to
+those who wish to buy. The small, flat boxes are the best for this
+purpose.
+
+Fresh cocoanut meat should be removed from the shell and divided into
+penny squares, that the pupils may be able to buy a bit for a penny.
+
+
+AN AFTERNOON IN PUERTO RICO.
+
+PROGRAMME.
+
+1. Introductory remarks by the guide, who explains our plan of
+celebrating the anniversary of the discovery of Puerto Rico by Columbus,
+Nov. 17, 1493, by a journey to that island, Nov. 17, 1900, to be spent
+at Aguadilla, the first landing place of Columbus on Puerto Rico.
+
+2. Another pupil gives a short talk on the location, size and surface of
+Puerto Rico, using a large map.
+
+3. History of Puerto Rico by the class historian.
+
+4. Climate of Puerto Rico, with description of a West Indies hurricane.
+
+5. Preparation for the trip.
+
+6. Recitation--"Southern Seas" (given on the following pages).
+
+7. Song,--"Life on the Ocean Wave."
+
+8. Description of our voyage, by a pupil who has made an ocean voyage.
+
+9. Harbor and city of San Juan.
+
+10. Points of interest in the city.
+
+11. Homes and home life of the people of the island.
+
+12. Characteristics of the people of Puerto Rico.
+
+13. Child life and education.
+
+14. Amusements.
+
+15. Burden-Bearing.
+
+16. Travel.
+
+17. The farmer.
+
+18. The laborer.
+
+19. Glimpses of cities in Puerto Rico.
+
+20. A country home.
+
+21. Animal life.
+
+22. Plant life.
+
+23. Recitation, "Puerto Rico," poem.
+
+24. Conclusion.
+
+25. Announcements.
+
+26. Song--"America."
+
+Before the concluding song, announcement may be made of the plan for a
+series of afternoons or evenings abroad. Speak of the purpose of these
+entertainments and express a hope that all those present will attend the
+next entertainment--"An Afternoon [or Evening] in Hawaii."
+
+
+ SOUTHERN SEAS.
+
+
+ Yes! let us mount this gallant ship,
+ Spread canvas to the wind;--
+ Up! we will seek the glowing South,--
+ Leave care and cold behind.
+
+ Let the shark pursue, through the waters blue,
+ Our flying vessel's track;
+ Let the strong winds blow, and rocks below
+ Threaten,--we turn not back.
+
+ See, where those shoals of dolphins go!
+ A glad and glorious band,
+ Sporting amongst the roseate woods
+ Of a coral fairy land.
+
+ See on the violet sands beneath
+ How the gorgeous shells do glide!
+ O sea! old sea! who yet knows half
+ Of thy wonders and thy pride?
+
+ Look how the sea-plants trembling float,
+ As it were like a mermaid's locks,
+ Waving in thread of ruby red
+ Over those nether rocks,--
+
+ Heaving and sinking, soft and fair,
+ Here hyacinth, there green,
+ With many a stem of golden growth,
+ And starry flowers between.
+
+ But oh, the South! the balmy South!
+ How warm the breezes float!
+ How warm the amber waters stream
+ From off our basking boat!
+
+ And what is that?
+ "'Tis land! 'Tis land!
+ 'Tis land!" the sailors cry.
+ Nay! 'tis a long and narrow cloud
+ Betwixt the sea and sky.
+
+ And now I mark the rising shores!
+ The purple hills! the trees!
+ O what a glorious land is here,
+ What happy scenes are these!
+
+ See how the tall palms lift their locks
+ From mountain clefts,--what vales,
+ Basking beneath the noontide sun,
+ That high and hotly sails.
+
+ Yet all about the breezy shore,
+ Unheedful of the glow,
+ Look how the children of the South
+ Are passing to and fro!
+
+ What noble forms! what fairy place!
+ Cast anchor in this cove,
+ Push out the boat, for in this land
+ A little we must rove!
+
+ We'll wander on through wood and field,
+ We'll sit beneath the vine;
+ We'll drink the limpid cocoa-milk,
+ And pluck the native pine.
+
+ The bread-fruit and cassava-root
+ And many a glowing berry,
+ Shall be our feast; for here, at least,
+ Why should we not be merry?
+
+ WILLIAM HOWITT.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+NOTE.--The following poem may be given as a recitation by changing the
+title to "Puerto Rico." The words apply to this island as well as to the
+island which is described.
+
+
+ SANTA CRUZ.
+
+ Betwixt old Cancer and the midway line,
+ In happiest climate lies this envied isle:
+ Trees bloom throughout the year, soft breezes blow,
+ And fragrant Flora wears a lasting smile.
+
+ Cool, woodland streams from shaded cliffs descend,
+ The dripping rock no want of moisture knows,
+ Supplied by springs that on the skies depend,
+ That fountain feeding as the current flows.
+
+ Sweet, verdant isle! through thy dark woods I rove
+ And learn the nature of each native tree,
+ The fustic hard; the poisonous manchineel,
+ Which for its fragrant apple pleaseth thee;
+
+ The lowly mangrove, fond of watery soil;
+ The white-barked palm tree, rising high in air;
+ The mastic in the woods you may descry;
+ Tamarind and lofty bay-trees flourish there;
+
+ Sweet orange groves in lonely valleys rise,
+ And drop their fruits unnoticed and unknown;
+ The cooling acid limes in hedges grow,
+ The juicy lemons swell in shades their own.
+
+ Soft, spongy plums on trees wide-spreading hang;
+ Bell apples here, suspended, shade the ground;
+ Plump granadillas and guavas gray,
+ With melons, in each plain and vale abound.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ But chief the glory of these Indian isles
+ Springs from the sweet, uncloying sugar-cane;
+ Hence comes the planter's wealth, hence commerce sends
+ Such floating piles, to traverse half the main.
+
+ Whoe'er thou art that leaves thy native shore,
+ And shall to fair West India climates come;
+ Taste not the enchanting plant,--to taste forbear,
+ If ever thou wouldst reach thy much-loved home.
+
+ --PHILIP FREEMAN.
+
+
+
+HELPFUL BOOKS
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+SONGS IN SEASON
+
+Special songs for each season, and special songs for each noted day in
+each season. There are twenty Songs of Springtime, eight Flower Songs,
+thirteen Bird Songs, twenty-six Songs of Autumn, thirty Winter Songs,
+and twenty Miscellaneous Songs. The general arrangement is by Miss
+George. Words by Lydia Avery Coonley and others. Music by Mary E.
+Conrade, Jessie L. Gaynor, Frank Atkinson, and others. It is a charming
+song book, and will be used in all seasons. Contains 160 pages. Paper,
+50c.; cloth, 75c.
+
+
+STORIES IN SEASON.
+
+Contains stories suitable for reading by the teachers: eighteen about
+Autumn, sixteen on Winter, twenty-one on Spring. Several poems on each
+season of the year, etc. They have been selected from a variety of
+sources and put in usable form by Miss George, and will be welcomed by
+all teachers. Suitable for Primary and Intermediate Grades. 160 pages.
+Paper; price, 50c.
+
+
+CHRISTMAS IN OTHER LANDS.
+
+First-class entertainments for Primary and Intermediate Grades. Contains
+full-page pictures, Boyhood of Christ, Christ Blessing the Little
+Children, Three Madonnas, thirteen full-page pictures showing costumes
+of the children of as many different nations, such as Russia, Italy,
+Germany, etc. Sixteen pages of music, besides a large amount of original
+recitations, suggestions, accounts, and descriptions of how Christmas is
+observed in other countries. Price, 25c.
+
+WASHINGTON AND LINCOLN.
+
+By Miss George and Mrs. Avery Coonley. Wholly original. Mrs. Coonley has
+written in rhyme descriptions of the early homes of these patriots,
+their mothers, their school days, the particular work of each, their
+particularly good qualities, etc., etc. These are excellent for readings
+and recitations. Miss George has given, in several pages of particularly
+good matter, plans for observing the birthdays of each. Songs and
+pictures complete the book. Price, 25c.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Little Journey to Puerto Rico
+by Marian M. George
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO ***
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+Project Gutenberg's A Little Journey to Puerto Rico, by Marian M. George
+
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+Title: A Little Journey to Puerto Rico
+ For Intermediate and Upper Grades
+
+Author: Marian M. George
+
+Release Date: February, 2006 [EBook #9995]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on November 6, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+_THE PLAN BOOK SERIES_
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+for intermediate and upper grades
+
+
+BY MARIAN M. GEORGE
+
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+
+Do you know what people mean when they speak of "Our New Possessions"?
+What are they? Where are they? Why are men, in the streets, in the
+shops, everywhere, talking about them? Why are the newspapers full of
+articles in regard to them? Why are our lawmakers at the capital
+devoting so much time and attention to them? Can you tell?
+
+Some of these things you can easily ascertain for yourselves. Others we
+will speak of here.
+
+The new territory which has lately come into the possession of the
+United States, consists of the islands of Puerto Rico, Hawaii and the
+Philippines. Cuba is not included in this list; it is soon to be an
+independent country.
+
+Since Puerto Rico and these other islands have come to be parts of the
+United States, everyone is anxious to learn something more of them.
+
+The best way to learn the geography of a country and the customs of the
+people is to visit the country and see with your own eyes.
+
+That would be a difficult thing for most of us. The next best way is to
+make the journey in imagination, and that all of us can do.
+
+The island nearest us is Puerto Rico, the most eastern island of the
+Greater Antilles. Let us visit that first and the other islands later
+on.
+
+We must find out something of the climate, however, before we start on
+this journey. This may not be the right season of the year to go. We
+must know, too, what kind of clothing to take with us.
+
+In order to plan our route wisely, we must know something of the
+geography of the island. We should also know the past history of Puerto
+Rico, in order to understand the customs of the people and the
+conditions that exist there.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+LOCATION, SIZE, SURFACE.
+
+
+If you will find a map of the West Indies in your atlas or geography,
+you will also find Puerto Rico. It is one of the four Greater Antilles
+Islands, and lies east of Haiti and farthest out in the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+It is over four hundred miles from the east coast of Cuba, one thousand
+miles from Havana, and about one thousand four hundred and fifty miles
+from New York.
+
+In size it is the smallest of the group. Its area is about three
+thousand five hundred and fifty square miles. Its average length is
+about ninety-five miles; its average breadth about thirty-five miles.
+
+In shape it resembles the State of Connecticut, though it is only
+three-fourths the size of that State.
+
+[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Puerto Rico, in English, means Rich Harbor. But Puerto Rico is not rich
+in harbors. There are not more than six good harbors, but it has less
+than three hundred and fifty miles of coast line.
+
+The surface of Puerto Rico is mountainous. A range of hills traverses
+the island from east to west. The hills are low and their sides are
+covered with vegetation. The hills are not rocky and barren, but are
+cultivated to their very tops.
+
+[Illustration: AN AFTERNOON SIESTA.]
+
+The lower valleys are rich pasture lands or cultivated plantations. The
+knolls have orchards of cocoanuts and other trees. Coffee, protected by
+the shade of other trees, grows to the summits of the green hills. The
+ground is covered everywhere with a thick carpeting of grass.
+
+The soil is remarkably fertile. This is due partly to the fine climate,
+partly to abundant moisture. The island has many fast flowing rivers.
+There are over twelve hundred of these. In the mountains are numerous
+springs and water falls, but these are hidden by the overhanging giant
+ferns and plants.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+BRIEF HISTORY OF PUERTO RICO.
+
+
+Puerto Rico was discovered by Christopher Columbus November 17, 1493. He
+made a landing at a bay, where he found springs of pure water, which was
+much needed on his ships. This place he named Aguadilla, which means
+"the watering place."
+
+[Illustration: PONCE DE LEON.]
+
+In 1508 Ponce de Leon, a Spanish navigator, visited the island, and was
+much pleased with its beautiful scenery and with the hospitality of the
+natives. A year or two later he returned, and founded the town of
+Caparra. In 1509 he founded the city of San Juan on the island that
+guards the entrance on the east.
+
+When Ponce de Leon came to the island, he found it inhabited by a happy,
+harmless people who received him with delight. They brought gifts to
+him, and showed him and his soldiers gold, which was found in the river
+beds.
+
+The kindness of the natives was rewarded by cruelty on the part of the
+Spaniards. They were ruthlessly murdered or reduced to slavery, and
+compelled to work in the mines. A revolution followed in which the
+greater number of the natives were killed.
+
+The severe work required of those remaining so shortened their lives
+that very soon all had disappeared. Not a descendant of this race is now
+living, but many curious and interesting relics, left by them, may be
+found.
+
+One of these is a stone collar, shaped like a horse collar, and
+skillfully carved. This was placed upon the breast of the native after
+his death, and was supposed to keep him from harm.
+
+Ponce de Leon built for himself a castle on the point of land above the
+mouth of the harbor of San Juan, and here he lived until he sailed on
+the voyage which resulted in the discovery of Florida.
+
+After his departure, Puerto Rico was left alone for a long time. After
+some years, Spain sent peasants to colonize the island, and slaves were
+introduced to cultivate the plantations.
+
+In 1870 the island was made a province of Spain, instead of a colony. In
+1873 slavery was abolished.
+
+Puerto Rico came into the possession of the United States as the result
+of the recent war with Spain. It was ceded to the United States Sept. 6,
+1898.
+
+Gen. George R. Davis is now Military Governor of the island. The form of
+government for Puerto Rico has not yet been decided upon. It is one of
+the problems that Congress is now working out.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+CLIMATE--PERPETUAL JUNE.
+
+
+Puerto Rico is a very beautiful island. Its climate and scenery attract
+many visitors, and erelong it will be a popular winter resort for
+people from many countries.
+
+It has been called the land of perpetual June. Flowers bloom and plants
+and trees yield fruit the year round. There is no winter; but during
+the season which is our winter, their skies are beautifully clear and
+blue.
+
+The air is neither dry nor moist, but perfect. The nights are always
+cool, and the trade winds keep the hottest days from being unpleasant.
+The average temperature is only 80°. It is the coolest and the
+healthiest place in the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration: GATHERING COFFEE IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+There are two seasons, the rainy and the dry. The rainy season lasts
+from July to December; the dry, from January to June. From November to
+June the climate is more than usually delightful and healthful. In the
+summer months it is somewhat warm, and the heat and dampness are
+oppressive in August and September.
+
+In September and October the rain comes in torrents, but it rains in the
+mountains almost every day in the year. The daily showers of the rainy
+season usually come late in the afternoon, but the sky clears up with
+the setting sun.
+
+The people pay little attention to drainage or to securing a supply of
+good water. As a result, fevers are common during the summer months
+among the people who live in crowded quarters in the city or in the
+marshes.
+
+Hurricanes occasionally occur between the months of July and October.
+These are sometimes accompanied by earthquake shocks. People may be
+injured or killed and their homes destroyed during these violent storms.
+Puerto Rico, however, is freer from them than other islands of the West
+Indies.
+
+A HURRICANE.
+
+It is easy to tell when a hurricane is approaching. The wind dies away
+and a deathly stillness falls over everything. Not a breath of air
+moves. The leaves droop on the trees and the heat almost smothers one.
+
+The sky becomes copper-colored, and tints everything with a ghastly hue.
+The cattle and other animals seem to know that danger is near, and rush
+about in a terrified way.
+
+Far out in the ocean the water is calm and smooth; but near the shore
+the waves rush furiously upon the beach with a mighty roar.
+
+By and by the wind begins to rise, just a little; first from one
+direction, and then from another. This is a sign that the storm is near
+at hand. Very soon a fearful roar is heard, and all at once the
+hurricane descends upon the island.
+
+The work of destruction begins. Trees are uprooted, growing crops are
+laid waste, and houses are torn down and scattered in every direction.
+Sometimes whole villages are destroyed and many people killed or
+wounded.
+
+When the barometer tells of the approach of a storm, the people prepare
+for it. They hunt some hole, cave, or cellar into which to crawl. They
+take with them, when there is time to do so, a supply of cane juice and
+food, to last until the storm subsides.
+
+"The people guard as much as possible from the hurricanes by building
+their houses of stone with massive walls. They provide strong bars for
+doors and windows. When the barometer gives notice of the approach of a
+storm, these bars are brought out, and everything is at once made fast.
+
+"Doors and window-shutters are closed, barred, and double locked, and
+the town looks as if it were deserted by all human beings. The state of
+suspense, while the hurricane lasts, is dreadful, for no one knows when
+the house may fall and bury all beneath its ruins.
+
+"Add to this the howling of the blasts, the crash of falling trees, the
+piercing cries for help from the wounded and dying, and one may faintly
+picture the terrible scene. To venture out is almost certain death, the
+air is so filled with flying missiles, such as boards, bricks, tiles,
+stones, and branches of trees."
+
+It is indeed fortunate that the people of Puerto Rico are largely free
+from these desolating storms. Some idea of their power for destruction
+may be gathered from the pictures in our papers of Galveston, Texas,
+after the recent hurricane there.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP.
+
+The best time for us to visit Puerto Rico, then, is after the hurricane
+season, in the winter. January, February, and March are the favorite
+months of travelers.
+
+But if we wish to celebrate the four hundred and seventh anniversary of
+the discovery of the island, we must go in November. It was the 17th day
+of this month that Columbus first visited Puerto Rico.
+
+We will need to take our thinnest clothing for use on the island, but we
+should have light wraps for the cool evenings.
+
+We should also go well provided with umbrellas, rubber overshoes, and
+rain coats, if we do not wish to spend many afternoons indoors.
+
+Now the best way to reach Puerto Rico is not, as many people think, from
+Cuba. San Juan, the capital, is nearly as far from Havana as from New
+York.
+
+We will take the steamer from New York that goes directly to San Juan.
+If the weather is good, we may expect to make the voyage in four days.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE VOYAGE.
+
+
+What a busy crowd it is through which we pass to the New York wharf!
+Dozens of large ships and hundreds of small vessels and sailboats crowd
+the harbor.
+
+There is a large steamer just going out. It is loaded with hardware,
+kerosene, pine lumber, and codfish, and is probably bound for South
+America.
+
+Crowds of people are going on deck with departing friends. Many of the
+friends have brought or sent flowers and steamer-letters, to be enjoyed
+by the travelers, during the voyage.
+
+[Illustration: OUR OCEAN STEAMER.]
+
+Now the bell sounds a warning to our visitors to say good-by. They leave
+the boat, and soon we are off. As we leave the harbor we listen to the
+band playing "America" and the "Star Spangled Banner," and take the last
+glimpse of our native land which we shall have for a month.
+
+It is not far from the dinner hour, so we now visit the dining-room for
+the purpose of securing our place at the table from the head steward.
+
+We next secure a steamer chair, and have the deck steward place it in a
+comfortable, sheltered place on deck. It is well, before long, to visit
+our staterooms, and put our clothes and other belongings in order for
+the trip.
+
+By the time this is done dinner is announced. Somehow we do not feel
+very hungry. The vessel rolls about so that we begin to feel dizzy. We
+think we would rather go to bed, and we try to do so, but find it rather
+difficult.
+
+The stewardess comes in just then, and asks if she may help us. With her
+assistance we climb into our berths. Rock, rock, rock! If the boat would
+only be quiet one moment! We are very seasick by this time, and feel as
+if we never wish to eat another meal. The motion of the boat lulls us to
+sleep by and by, and the next thing we know it is morning.
+
+The air in our stateroom seems close and "stuffy," so we gladly leave it
+and go on deck, where we remain for the rest of the day. The steward
+serves our meals to us here, and we spend the time in our steamer
+chairs, watching the white-capped waves, the sea gulls over us, and the
+porpoises following the boat for food.
+
+After the first day out we sail into smoother seas and warmer weather.
+We throw aside our wraps and put on lighter clothing. We also don broad
+shade-hats to protect our eyes from the glare of the light upon the
+water.
+
+A favorable wind bears us southward to the tropical sea, which many
+people consider among the most beautiful things in the world.
+
+The water of the Bahama sea is wonderful because of its clearness and
+its deep purple color. A cloud shadow changes the purple into emerald.
+
+Looking down into the clear depths, we see the dolphins as distinctly
+as the birds overhead. Shoals of flying fish dart out of the water,
+their fins serving as sails for an instant; then they drop back again.
+
+Many other new and interesting objects and scenes add to the pleasure of
+our voyage from the great northern metropolis to the capital of the
+island in the southern seas. These we can not tell about now.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SAN JUAN.
+
+
+While we are learning of the plant and animal life about and beneath us,
+the good ship bears us swiftly on, and all too soon we are at our
+journey's end.
+
+We seem hardly to have left the shadow of Liberty's towering torch in
+New York harbor, before the gray walls of Morro Castle appear above the
+horizon. Far out at sea, this massive stone fort with its beacon light
+attracts our attention.
+
+Across the harbor entrance the white-capped waves rush furiously over
+each other in a mad race toward the shore. Passing through this narrow
+channel, the ship glides into the harbor under the guns of the two
+picturesque old forts which guard it, and we get our first glimpse of
+San Juan.
+
+[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY--NEW YORK HARBOR.]
+
+Our first view of this beautiful old city fills us with anticipations
+of pleasure. We find that the ground upon which the city lies slopes
+upward from the calm, broad harbor to the forts that guard its heights.
+
+Here and there a tall palm-tree rears its graceful head above the tops
+of the gayly colored buildings that glisten in the sunlight.
+
+Our guide tells us that San Juan is one of the most perfectly fortified
+cities in the world. It is easy to believe this when, from the ocean and
+from the bay, we see the massive walls and battlements of the forts that
+guard the north and east.
+
+We learn that they are cut from the solid rock which crowns the crest of
+the narrow peninsula. The steep walls of the vast castle of San
+Cristobal overshadow the whole city.
+
+The city is built on an island, connected with the mainland by a bridge.
+
+It is surrounded by a high, thick stone wall: that is, it was once upon
+a time; but the city is now extended far beyond the walls. Inside is the
+city proper, or old San Juan. Outside are the more modern buildings and
+the suburbs.
+
+San Juan is not only the seat of government, but it is considered the
+first city of Puerto Rico in interest and in importance. Ponce, however,
+disputes this claim. It has the best harbor, and the best public
+buildings, churches and schools on the island.
+
+The palace of the governor-general and the headquarters of the American
+administration we find located in San Juan.
+
+Over thirty thousand people make their homes in this city, and a goodly
+number of them we find at the shore to meet our vessel. They do not wait
+for us to land. They come out to meet us.
+
+Dusky natives in landing boats are soon alongside, and we learn to our
+surprise that our ship does not go to the dock. We are to go ashore in
+these small awning-covered boats. This is a new experience for us, but
+it is an old Spanish custom.
+
+[Illustration: LANDING FROM OUR STEAMER AT SAN JUAN.]
+
+The steward of the ship tells us that we may retain our rooms and use
+the ship as a hotel during the stay in port, going ashore for
+sight-seeing when we like.
+
+We have heard that the hotels in San Juan are very poor; but of course
+we wish to see for ourselves what they are like, and so we decide to
+give them a trial.
+
+We are in no hurry to seek the hotels, however. The streets of San Juan
+present so many novel sights to our wandering eyes that we wish to look
+about first.
+
+STREET SCENES.
+
+We have been told that we could walk all over the town in an hour, and
+we resolve to try it.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN SAN JUAN.]
+
+The streets are narrow and dark, but well paved and clean. They ought to
+be clean, for they are swept by hand every day. The sidewalks are so
+narrow that only two of us can walk abreast, so we take to the road.
+This is used as a highway for people as well as vehicles.
+
+Naked little children of all ages and colors play about the streets and
+on the sidewalks. Colored men and women, smoking black cigars, saunter
+idly about. Street venders carrying their stores upon their heads or
+backs, or in large panniers upon tiny ponies, fill the air with cries
+announcing their wares.
+
+Judging from the number of the venders of drinks we see on the streets,
+every one in San Juan is thirsty. We are, at any rate, and very
+delicious we find their ices and sherbets, their iced orange, lemon and
+strawberry waters, iced cherries, milk, coffee and chocolate.
+
+[Illustration: DULCE (SWEETMEAT) SELLERS IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Fruit sellers under the arcades and in stalls tempt us with their
+attractive wares; but the fruits are new and strange to us, and we
+hesitate about buying.
+
+The hack drivers are asleep on closed carriages at the hack stand. Long
+lines of clumsy carts, with high wheels, rumble over the cobblestone
+pavements with a dreadful clatter.
+
+In the open doorways of shops we see men and women manufacturing
+articles for sale. Some are making chairs, some shoes, some jewelry,
+some boxes, and, in one place, we see a number of workmen making
+coffins.
+
+We are interested in observing that flags of different colors are used
+as signs, and that the walls are painted with brilliant pictures. In the
+quarter near the sea, the brandy stores, built of reeds, have round them
+swarms of beggars of every degree.
+
+The laundry shop we find just outside the city, beside a large creek. A
+laundry not built by hands! Here women stand knee-deep in the stream,
+with the hot sun beating down upon their heads. They are doing their
+laundry work. The clothes are cleaned by soaking them in water and
+pounding them with stones. We wonder if there are any buttons left on
+the clothes after this treatment, and resolve not to trust our clothes
+to this laundry.
+
+We note outside the city wall a broad concrete walk; along this walk
+seats, trees, and rude statues; and between the walk and the wall an
+ornamental garden.
+
+Having now taken a general stroll, we will rest up preparatory to our
+visit to the points of special interest.
+
+POINTS OF INTEREST IN SAN JUAN.
+
+We are now ready to visit the places of unusual interest about the
+capital city. The most noted buildings are the governor's palace, the
+cathedral, the city hall, the arsenal, the buildings used as quarters
+for the troops, the forts, the castles of Morro and San Cristobal, the
+house which Ponce de Leon built, the palace of the bishop, the theater,
+the hospital, the orphan asylum, the poorhouse, the jail, the library,
+and the colleges.
+
+In the heart of the town, facing the City Hall, the guide shows us a
+public plaza; and under the frowning walls of San Cristobal, on the
+outskirts of the city, he points out another. These plazas are flat,
+open spaces, paved with cement and surrounded by rows of shade trees.
+
+In the plaza of Columbus, on the outskirts of the city, is a handsome
+statue of Columbus. Facing this plaza is the grand theater.
+
+In the cool of the evening, the people gather in these plazas, and
+listen to the music of the band.
+
+One of the most interesting buildings in the, city to us is the "White
+House of Ponce de Leon." It is still standing where it looked northward
+over the sea so long ago.
+
+On the side toward the bay is an old wall, and beyond this is a
+beautiful garden and rows of palm trees. From the windows we get a fine
+view of the bay.
+
+The people of San Juan have honored its founder with a statue, which
+stands in the center of one of its plazas.
+
+His remains are preserved in a leaden box in the church of Santo
+Domingo.
+
+We find the famous Morro Castle to be a small military town in itself,
+with houses, chapel, barracks, dungeons, water tanks, warehouses, and
+also a light tower, a signal station, and a light-saving station.
+
+This ancient fort is the beginning of the wall which surrounds the city.
+
+THE MARKET PLACE.
+
+Look at these people coming in from the country! Our guide says they are
+going to the market place. Let us follow them and see what a Puerto
+Rican market place is.
+
+Here it is, situated near the ocean. The court is formed with stones,
+and it contains booths for fruits, vegetables, and produce of all kinds.
+
+[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET.]
+
+Dear me! what a busy, noisy place! People from every race and nation
+seem to be gathered here. Big people, little people, babies, roosters,
+dogs, donkeys, horses! What talking, shouting, laughing, crying,
+crowing, barking, and braying!
+
+Men are smoking, lounging about, and bragging about their game-cocks;
+women are making small purchases and gossiping with neighbors; babies
+are tumbling about on the ground, devouring bits of fruit that come in
+their way: but all are good-natured.
+
+Each market man or woman has a place assigned, and within this space or
+in a booth are piled high heaps of fruits and vegetables. And such
+fruits and vegetables we never in our lives beheld or even dreamed of!
+
+Heaps and heaps of golden, luscious oranges are offered us by the
+thousand, or two for a penny. Bananas are sold five for a cent, or a
+bunch of a hundred bananas for twenty-five cents. Think of it! In New
+York it would cost us three to five dollars.
+
+There are ever and ever so many kinds of fruits of which we do not even
+know the name. But we make a list of those whose names we do know, and
+here they are: oranges, bananas, plantains, limes, lemons, cocoanuts,
+bread-fruit, bread nuts, pomegranates, dates, figs, pawpaws, the
+tamarind, sugar apple, grosella, mammee, guava, granadilla, naseberry,
+alligator pears, shaddocks, and Indian plums.
+
+Could you find so many in a New York, New Orleans, Chicago, or San
+Francisco market, do you think?
+
+Then here are the vegetables. They would make even a longer list, but we
+note a few of those with whose names and forms we are acquainted: yams,
+sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, carrots, turnips, celery, beets, egg
+plant, radishes, peas, beans, tomatoes, cabbage, pumpkins, cantaloupes,
+watermelons, squashes, peppers, cassava, yantias, and okra.
+
+[Illustration: A POULTRY DEALER.]
+
+The people in the market, seeing that we are Americans, try to charge
+us many times what each article is worth. If we travel very far, we will
+find that this is a custom of the people in many countries. They think
+all Americans are rich.
+
+[Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE AT PONCE, PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Now this is a great mistake, and so we decline very firmly to buy
+anything at all. This offends the market people. They wish us to make
+them an offer.
+
+They offer us their fruits for half the first price. Again we refuse. A
+fourth of the original price. We shake our heads.
+
+Our guide now offers to make our purchases for us, and does so for a
+very small sum. And the market people and venders are quite satisfied.
+It is all they expected.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+HOMES AND HOME LIFE.
+
+
+A narrow, shaded street tempts us to leave the noisy, business part of
+the town and the throng that crowds these streets and plazas, and stray
+into the suburbs.
+
+No matter which way we turn, some new picture meets our eyes.
+
+Wandering along, we peep into doorways, courtyards and pleasant patios.
+Some of the houses have crosses upon their summits, to show the devotion
+of the inmates to their religion.
+
+Others have a palm branch twined among the iron bars of their balconies,
+or placed aloft, to protect the house from evil. This branch was one of
+those blessed at the cathedral the last Palm Sunday.
+
+A piece of white paper floating from the iron railing of a balcony tells
+us that the house is to let. Here buildings can be rented by the day or
+week, as well as by the month or year.
+
+The dwellings and other buildings are of gray stone or brick, stuccoed
+over and tinted blue, yellow, drab or any other color but pink.
+
+About half the houses are two stories in height, the others one story;
+but all are flat-roofed and without chimneys. The main or upper story
+has iron balconies which project over the narrow streets and darken
+them. The houses have no windows of glass, but the window openings are
+provided with heavy shutters. We enter these houses through interior
+courts or patios.
+
+Many of the rich Puerto Ricans have fountains, trees, and flowers in
+these open central courts; a few have roof gardens. Here the family sits
+in the evening to catch the cool sea breezes. Others sit on their
+balconies along the outside of the house, or along the inner court or
+patio.
+
+The patio is the coolest place about the house during the heated hours
+of the day. Here the women bring their sewing or embroidery, and chat.
+It is also the favorite playground of the children, and in its shade the
+men of the household take their afternoon nap.
+
+There are no yards or gardens attached to these houses. The only green
+spots to be found are the inner courts, the public squares or plazas,
+and the garden of the Governor-General's palace.
+
+There is no portion of the city set aside for the rich or the poor.
+People of means, of education, and of refinement live in the upper
+stories. The poor live in crowded rooms and patios, and in basements or
+in dirty alleys.
+
+Many of the wealthy, fashionable people live in the pretty suburban
+towns. Others, who are engaged in business in the cities, live over
+their stores, on the second floor.
+
+The lower floors are occupied by servants, or poor people. To reach the
+upper stories of these buildings, we must pass through a crowd of
+children, dogs, and poultry in the courtyard below.
+
+Upstairs the rooms are large and the ceilings lofty. The windows reach
+to the floor, and the shutters are kept open to admit the air.
+
+The homes of even the wealthy seem to us plainly furnished. There is no
+upholstered furniture. It is too warm for this, they tell us. But wood
+furniture, wickerwork, and willow ware are used.
+
+The floors in the best houses are tiled or are made of hard wood.
+
+Carpets are never used, but rugs are seen occasionally in the center of
+a room.
+
+The bedrooms are small and not well ventilated. The beds are canopied
+and trimmed with fine handmade lace.
+
+The walls are usually bare; but here and there a fine painting may be
+seen. Giant ferns and broad-spreading palm leaves are used to festoon
+the walls and arched doorways. These are cut fresh and renewed from day
+to day, and they make the dark, cool rooms attractive and inviting.
+Within and without the house, potted tropical plants are found.
+
+Peeping into the bath room of one of these homes we see, not a bath
+tub, but a swimming pool large enough to accommodate a young whale.
+
+We think this an improvement on our bath tubs at home, and of the joy it
+would give the average United States boy to add such a feature to his
+own home.
+
+FOOD AND DRINK.
+
+For water the people have, until quite recently, been dependent upon
+cisterns, in which the rain that falls upon the flat roofs is collected.
+These cisterns are in the patio, or courtyard, and an open drain runs
+through the same place.
+
+[Illustration: THE BREAD SELLER.]
+
+Much of the cooking is done here by the poorer people.
+
+It seems to us that cooking in houses without chimneys would be rather
+difficult, but then these people do not use stoves or coal. They cook
+over a small pot, or brazier, or furnace of charcoal.
+
+They cook less food, too, than people who live in the North. They live
+largely on fruits and vegetables and have little meat.
+
+Ice is used only by the families of the wealthy, and it is impossible to
+keep milk or fresh meat for any length of time. In place of ice-water
+the people store water in porous jars, and in this way it is kept cool.
+
+They prepare many refreshing drinks to be used in place of water by
+using oranges, lemons, limes, cocoanuts, and the milk of almonds.
+
+They also indulge very often in little ices, which the venders bring to
+the doors many times a day.
+
+The poorer people, who can not afford to indulge in such expensive
+drinks and ices, use barley water, or water with toasted corn and sugar
+in it.
+
+The people have coffee or chocolate and biscuits for the first or early
+breakfast. The second breakfast is eaten between eleven and twelve
+o'clock, and corresponds to our lunch. Dinner is eaten at six or seven
+o'clock in the evening.
+
+Many of the business men take the morning meal with their clerks at a
+long table on a veranda, or in a room of the establishment. From three
+to four o'clock in the afternoon everyone indulges in a siesta or nap.
+
+Along the wharves and in the outskirts of the city, the houses are but
+one story high, and many of them are built of wood. These houses have
+but one window and are dark and poorly ventilated; yet they are crowded
+with poor people.
+
+Some of them have patches of garden separated by rows or hedges of
+cactus. Here we see brown mothers sitting in the sun mending fish nets.
+Their naked little children are at play near them.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE PEOPLE OF PUERTO RICO.
+
+
+The people of Puerto Rico, on a casual glance, appear to us to come from
+every nation on earth. The first person you meet will be black, the next
+brown, the third yellow, and the fourth white.
+
+After a time we are able to divide them into five classes: the upper
+class of white Puerto Ricans; the lower class of whites, or peasants;
+the negroes; the mixed people of negro and Indian or other blood; and
+the foreigners.
+
+Among these last are Germans, Swedes, Danes, Russians, Frenchmen,
+descendants of Moorish Jews and of natives of the Canary Islands.
+
+All of these people speak Spanish, however, and have the Spanish
+customs, manners, and religion.
+
+Of the 850,000 people, less than one half are colored or of mixed blood.
+
+The upper class of white Puerto Ricans is descended from Spanish stock,
+and in this class are found the wealthy planters and stock raisers, the
+merchants, and the professional men.
+
+They are a happy, good-looking, hospitable, polite, and prosperous
+people. Many of them are fairly well educated.
+
+In appearance these people resemble the Cubans, having regular features
+and dark hair and eyes.
+
+The men are not large, but are well built, erect and graceful.
+
+The women have clear complexions, delicate features, and small hands and
+feet.
+
+Heavy clothing is not worn. The men dress in white (light linen or
+cotton), and the women in cotton or other thin material.
+
+The ladies of the family are secluded very closely. They spend much of
+their time in the patios or on the balconies of their homes,
+embroidering, making lace, and gossiping. They care little for reading
+or for study.
+
+The Puerto Rican is generous and hospitable. He tells you, as does the
+Cuban, that his house and all it contains, his servants, his horses, his
+possessions, are yours to use and to have.
+
+But of course he does not mean that you shall accept these gifts. He
+means that he expects you to use them freely so long as you are a guest
+in his house.
+
+By these well-to-do people, any sort of labor is regarded as degrading
+and altogether out of the question; so they keep many servants. Some are
+paid and some receive only their board and clothes. But all are content.
+
+The working people are of one color, a light brown, with black eyes and
+straight hair. They are rather small and thin; and many of those living
+in the cities are ill-fed and diseased.
+
+They are ignorant and somewhat indolent, but are gentle, quick of wit,
+and teachable. Though cruel to their animals, they are kind to their
+children.
+
+There are many beautiful girls in the lower classes as well as in the
+upper, and these we see on the streets and in the market places.
+
+Many of them use long scarlet shawls and wear black satin slippers on
+their bare, pretty little feet. They are as proud of their little feet
+as of their hands. Some of the girls in the market have hair
+three-quarters the length of their body; but while it is so black and
+abundant, it is extremely coarse. The laboring men cut their hair short
+in the neck, and wear a thick bang on the forehead.
+
+[Illustration: A BEGGAR OF PUERTO RICO.]
+
+In many parts of the island beggars appeal to us with outstretched hand.
+Even the little children are taught to add their mite to the family
+income by begging.
+
+In Ponce these beggars secure a special license to pursue this
+profession and have a regular system. In certain houses, on certain
+days, a little table is placed in the doorway and a row of copper cents
+or coins upon it.
+
+The beggars who are privileged to come to these homes, come at the right
+time, take their pennies, and with a "Thank you!" shamble off.
+
+CHILD LIFE.
+
+Formerly lessons never bothered the small Puerto Rican, or indeed any
+other Puerto Rican child. He played "hookey" all day long, and no truant
+officer disturbed him, or dragged him off to school.
+
+He never saw a schoolhouse or the inside of a schoolroom. He never saw a
+book. But, for that matter, neither did his father or mother. They can
+neither read nor write; nor can many of their neighbors.
+
+The Puerto Rican city child often lives in a crowded basement, with many
+brothers and sisters. The child of poor parents in the cities is not
+usually very clean; but then he has very few opportunities for bathing,
+and his only playground is the courtyard and the streets.
+
+His little country cousins, who live where pools and streams are found,
+spend much of their time in the water. They find it pleasanter to paddle
+in cool streams, beneath overhanging tree ferns and banana trees, than
+to roll in the dirt.
+
+They object, however, to wearing clothes, and are allowed to go without
+any until they are ten or twelve years of age. Even at this age they
+shed briny tears when compelled to put on one cotton garment.
+
+These little country children learn to be helpful at a very early age.
+They fish and catch crabs; weed the garden; dig potatoes; gather fruit,
+vegetables and coffee; and do errands.
+
+But they have one bugaboo, and that is the wild dog. This animal is very
+fierce. It sometimes leaves its hiding place in the forest, with a pack
+of companions, and carries off sheep, pigs, and calves.
+
+If very hungry, it may attack a child; and so the children keep a sharp
+lookout for it.
+
+Children in Puerto Rico sleep on the floor or in a hammock, and they eat
+whenever or wherever they can find fruit or vegetables within their
+reach. Sometimes they smoke, too.
+
+They have no toys, no books, no pictures, no fine clothes or homes; yet,
+for all that, they are cheerful and contented. They have little, but
+they seem to want little.
+
+The children of the wealthy and well-to-do dress and look very much like
+the children in our Southern States; though the babies and very young
+children sometimes wear no clothes.
+
+These children are sent to school, or are taught by a governess or tutor
+at home, until they are old enough to be sent away to school.
+
+Then they are sent to Spain, France, or the United States, to complete
+their education.
+
+The girls study and read very little. It is not considered necessary
+for them to be well educated. They are not allowed to walk about the
+streets alone, but must have a servant, nurse, or attendant from the
+time they leave their cradles until they are married.
+
+EDUCATION IN PUERTO RICO.
+
+Not more than one seventh of the 850,000 people in Puerto Rico can read
+or write. Only one child in twelve, between the ages of six and sixteen,
+attends school. (In 1897, of 125,000 children of school age, only about
+28,000 attended school--about 19,000 boys and 9,000 girls.)
+
+The buildings used for school purposes are seldom anything more than
+thatched huts. Sometimes two or three rooms are given to the school in
+the house where the teacher lives.
+
+Many of the country districts are without schools, and no school
+privileges are provided for three fourths of the people.
+
+The schools are of the old-fashioned, ungraded, district-school type,
+and are for pupils from seven to thirteen years of age.
+
+Pupils are supposed to study arithmetic, geography, grammar, the history
+of Spain, and religion. There are few schoolbooks used. The pupils write
+down what the teacher dictates, or copy what the teacher has written.
+The one book they use is the one from which they learn to read.
+
+Arithmetic problems are often worked out on the floor with bits of clay.
+
+There are from fifty to one hundred and twenty-five pupils in each room,
+and two or three teachers. The pupils sit on long benches or on the
+floor. The boys and girls have separate schools; but the white and the
+colored pupils attend the same school.
+
+The pupils are bright and quick to learn, but there is no discipline in
+the schoolroom. They come and go as they please. They stay at home if
+they wish, and no truant officer disturbs them.
+
+Many remain away from school because of a lack of clothing. Others
+remain away because they prefer to play in the streets. Their parents
+are careless and indifferent to the advantages of an education, and make
+no effort to induce their children to attend school, or to study.
+
+This unfavorable state of things is soon to disappear. The United States
+is now rapidly introducing schools and capable teachers into every part
+of the island. The people seem very glad to take advantage of the better
+order of things.
+
+RELIGION.
+
+The established church of the country is the Roman Catholic; but other
+religions are tolerated, and a few Protestant churches are to be found
+scattered over the island.
+
+The people seem to be little interested in religion or in their
+churches, and Sunday with them is only a fête day or a holiday.
+
+HOW THE PEOPLE AMUSE THEMSELVES.
+
+The people of Puerto Rico have two hundred holidays or feast days in
+their calendar. They are always ready to welcome new ones, however, and
+have within the past year added Washington's birthday and the Fourth of
+July to the list.
+
+Last year they celebrated the Fourth for the first time. In all the
+cities there were speeches in the daytime and fireworks at night. In the
+country there were races and processions in honor of the new "feast
+day," or holiday.
+
+The people show their patriotism and loyalty to the flag of the United
+States in many ways. They are eager and quick to adopt American manners
+and customs.
+
+Just before sunset, the band comes into the Plaza at Ponce and plays the
+"Star Spangled Banner" in front of headquarters as the American flag is
+drawn down for the night.
+
+The Puerto Ricans noticed that the American men took off their hats and
+stood with uncovered heads while the flag made its descent; and now
+they, too, show their loyalty by doffing their hats when the flag comes
+down.
+
+The people of Puerto Rico are extremely fond of music. Strolling bands
+of guitar and mandolin players are numerous; and at evening time the air
+is filled with music.
+
+Each peasant makes his own guitar. It is a very curious instrument. This
+guitar music is usually accompanied by music from another instrument
+called a guida. This is made from the great curve-necked gourd. The
+music or sound is made by passing a piece of umbrella wire up and down a
+series of notches cut from end to end on the outside curve of the gourd.
+
+The sound produced is much like that made by rubbing together two pieces
+of sandpaper. We would not call it music at all, but the natives seem to
+like it. No orchestra is complete without it, and one can hear the
+scratching of this instrument almost any time, at any home in Puerto
+Rico.
+
+Sunday is a day not of rest, but of merry making. During the early
+morning hours the Puerto Ricans go to church. After church, they hurry
+away to the cockpit or to the bull ring in the suburbs of the town.
+
+Very early in the morning we see numbers of roosters staked out by short
+strings to pegs driven in the sidewalks. These are the game-cocks which
+furnish to the Puerto Rican his favorite amusement and opportunity for
+gambling.
+
+They seem to realize their importance and keep up a great crowing,
+sending challenges of defiance back and forth to each other. Their
+owners take good care of them and endeavor to keep them in good
+condition for fighting.
+
+In the market places we see these fowls in wicker coops. Many venders of
+food and other articles have game-cocks tied by strings to their stools
+and stations.
+
+When their owners have nothing else to do, they devote themselves to
+training these birds; or they try to find some one willing to match them
+in a contest.
+
+The buildings where these fights take place are to be found in every
+town and village. They are considered next in importance to the
+cathedral and the town hall, and more important than the schools.
+
+The cock fights are usually held on Sundays and holidays, and last the
+greater part of the day. On the day set for these fights, the birds are
+taken to the arena, descriptions given and amounts wagered. One fight
+follows another, and large sums of money are lost and won.
+
+BURDEN BEARING.
+
+If a country is without good roads, it must employ human
+burden-carriers; and many of these we see in Puerto Rico. Men and women
+walk long distances through the country bearing heavy burdens upon their
+heads, shoulders or backs.
+
+The banana and plantain men carry their fruit fastened to poles. They
+move along quite easily with two hundred pounds or more of fruit. On the
+street and in the market place we hear the singsong notes of the
+vegetable man telling us of the excellence of his wares. These he
+carries on his head on an immense board, sometimes five feet long.
+
+The dulce seller, too, carries his tray of cocoanut dulces, guava jelly
+and other sweets on his woolly pate; as do also the sellers of fruits,
+bread, cakes, bottled cocoanut milk and trinkets.
+
+The hat weaver and the broom maker carry their wares on a shoulder pole,
+with a load fastened to each end so as to balance it.
+
+The milkman carries an open-mouthed ten-gallon milk can on his head.
+From this dangle the ladles and measures he uses.
+
+But he does not always deliver milk in this way. Sometimes he rides up
+in front of the door astride his horse, and shouts "milk" at the top of
+his voice.
+
+On each side of his horse are fastened milk cans, and from these cans he
+ladles without dismounting.
+
+Sometimes he drives his cows before him and milks them at his customer's
+door. This is the favorite method, because the milk is then sure to be
+sweet.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN HAT WEAVER.]
+
+This is not always the case if the milk is carried some distance in the
+hot sun, in uncovered tin cans.
+
+The milkman always comes very early in the morning, and so does the
+baker. If the baker is not on time, we must wait for our breakfast; for
+bread is not baked in the house. It is always bought.
+
+We can hear him long before he reaches our door, for he keeps up a
+plaintive cry in order to attract our attention.
+
+Sometimes our human bread wagon carries a great board or basket on his
+head, and in this are as many as fifty loaves. (See illustration, page
+26).
+
+The butcher, on horseback, brings meat hanging from hooks in frames.
+Much of the poultry is brought to town in great odd wicker coops strung
+across the backs of ponies. Here is a poultry vender at the street
+corner, with his inverted and excited merchandise suspended by strings
+from his shoulder. (See page 22).
+
+HOW THE PEOPLE TRAVEL.
+
+Puerto Rico is a very delightful place to visit, but we do not care to
+go there to live until there are better roads.
+
+There is but one good road on the island, the one leading from San Juan
+to Ponce. There is only one line of street cars (in the city of
+Mayaguez); and there are only one hundred and forty-seven miles of
+railroad in the whole island.
+
+The best roads run along the coast from town to town. There is one
+exception. This is the wonderful military road which connects Ponce, on
+the south shore, with San Juan on the north shore. (See map, page 4).
+
+Parts of the country away from the coasts are reached by bridle paths;
+but the roads outside the cities and towns are impassable during the
+rainy season. Sometimes there is only a bridle path or trail overgrown
+with tangled vegetation, and crossed by streams without bridges.
+
+The means of transportation employed by the people are the pony carriage
+or surrey, the saddle horse, the ox-cart and the foot. The beast of
+burden is either the donkey or the pony. These animals are employed to
+carry goods in packs over the trails, in place of using the wagon.
+
+The ponies are usually small, half-starved, badly treated animals. They
+carry great burdens, that look heavy enough to crush them to the ground.
+
+Their food consists of green corn and grass. One of the commonest sights
+on the road, street, or marketplace is the pony with his load of green
+fodder.
+
+This is usually so large that it covers the animal entirely, but the
+master is always in plain view, sitting astride the moving corn-stack.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN PONY LOADED.]
+
+The planters and farmers have an odd-looking saddle, which they use on
+these ponies. It is a leather pad to which are attached wicker baskets.
+
+The well-to-do farmers who own ponies carry fruit and vegetables in
+these baskets. Sometimes two hogs are brought to market in the baskets,
+with all four feet tied together.
+
+When the farmer takes his family to market, he and his wife ride the
+pony, and the children ride in the baskets.
+
+The ponies also carry bales of grass, trunks, and all kinds of household
+goods, and furniture.
+
+The principal draught animals are oxen. The heavy two-wheeled ox cart
+is used to convey great loads of sugar, coffee, and tobacco or fruit,
+over the good roads.
+
+Great, strong, patient beasts they are. They are yoked by a bar of heavy
+wood fastened to their horns.
+
+They are driven, not with words or whip, but with a goad. The driver or
+teamster walks in front of his team and waves his arms and goad the way
+he wishes them to go.
+
+If they do not follow fast enough to please him, he urges them along by
+prodding them. The end of the goad is shod with a sharp spike of steel,
+three inches or more long. Often we see these oxen dripping with blood,
+and seamed and scarred with wounds.
+
+Besides the pain of this constant goading, they suffer from flies upon
+their face, nose and eyes. Since their heads are bound, they can not
+shake the flies off.
+
+All day they stand or travel in the hot sun without water or food.
+
+Even when they stop or rest, no one thinks of putting them in the shade.
+
+Almost all the people are cruel to their animals, yet they seem not to
+realize that they are doing wrong. It is a custom, that is all.
+
+It makes us wish we might organize a society for the prevention of
+cruelty. It is, perhaps, the only thing that could change this custom.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+THE FARMER AND HIS HOME.
+
+
+Puerto Rico is a country of farmers. Nearly five-sixths of the people
+live in the country. Their homes are scattered along the valleys, on the
+hills, and even on the mountain tops; for the land is fertile
+everywhere.
+
+[Illustration: THE PUERTO RICAN FARMER IN TOWN.]
+
+We have seen the homes and home life of the people in the city. Now let
+us take a jaunt out into the country to see how the farmers and the
+plantation laborers live.
+
+Here is a farmer now, coming down the street. He is on his way to the
+market. His horse is a thin, mean-looking little beast. His produce is
+carried in baskets, and his machete is sticking out of one of these.
+
+This machete he always carries with him. He could not get along without
+it. It is a large, long, clumsy knife, something like a corn-cutter.
+Sometimes he uses it to cut a way for himself and pony through the
+forest, or on the bridle paths overgrown with plants and vines after the
+rainy season.
+
+When he has sold his load of vegetables and fruit, we will ride out with
+him to his home and visit some of the plantations.
+
+We saw many peasant farmers and laborers in the market place, and found
+them polite, shrewd, bright in conversation, but very ignorant and
+somewhat indolent.
+
+They are quite content with their way of living, and take no thought for
+the future. A Puerto Rican farmer thinks himself rich and fortunate if
+he owns a horse, a cow, some game-cocks, a gun and an acre of land.
+
+He is simple in his tastes and buys little in the market. His rice
+flour, corn meal and coffee he has prepared at home, by pounding in
+wooden mortars or grinding between stones.
+
+His patch of land he plants with corn, sweet potatoes and other
+vegetables. Bananas, plantains and other fruits grow wild and may be had
+for the picking.
+
+His vegetables, fruit and poultry he takes to the market and sells, but
+only when compelled to do so by necessity.
+
+This money is spent for clothing or other articles, or perhaps lost in
+gambling.
+
+Only the lightest kind of clothing is necessary; for the coldest days
+are not so cold as our mild autumn days.
+
+The dress of the farmer consists of a cotton jacket, white shirt and
+check pantaloons. His head is protected from the hot rays of the sun by
+a large broad-brimmed hat. This is made from the grass which grows
+around his doorway. No shoes are needed.
+
+The dress of his wife is a simple white cotton gown, and his children
+wear no clothes at all.
+
+[Illustration: HOME OF A PEASANT FARMER OF THE BETTER CLASS.]
+
+The houses or homes of the peasant farmers are nearly all alike. They
+are built in a few days, from poles and royal palm bark. They are
+thatched with leaves of the palm or with grass. These huts are usually
+divided into two rooms.
+
+There are no chimneys, often no windows, and but one door. A very poor
+house, you think; but then it is only intended for a shelter. It shields
+them from the damp and cool winds of night and the daily rains of the
+rainy season. At other times they live outside.
+
+There is no stove, and of cooking utensils there are few. The cooking is
+done for the most part outside the house, when the weather is dry, on a
+sheet of iron or in an iron kettle. The food is served in gourd dishes
+and eaten with gourd spoons.
+
+During the rainy season the people live in great discomfort. The
+cooking must be done inside the hut at this time. As there is no
+chimney, the room is soon filled with smoke, which can only escape
+through the openings under the eaves.
+
+Would you like to see the furniture of one of these poor cabins? It
+consists of a few calabash shells used for eating vessels; some rude
+earthen pots; a tin cup, perhaps; two or three hammocks made of the bark
+of the palm tree, and a machete.
+
+Bunches of dried herbs and gourds dangle on the walls, but there are no
+pictures, curtains, or ornaments of any kind.
+
+At night the people sleep on the floor, or in hammocks. They spend much
+of the day also in swinging to and fro in their hammocks, smoking, and
+playing on their guitars and other native musical instruments.
+
+By the door the family dog and the naked babies tumble in the dirt.
+Perhaps there is a pig and some poultry; but there is sure to be a
+game-cock or two.
+
+Near the house is the garden. In this are raised sweet potatoes, beans,
+squashes, muskmelons, peppers, gourds, calabashes, bananas and
+plantains.
+
+The farmers we see at work have their oxen harnessed to rude plows by
+the horns. The ground is so rich it is not necessary to plow it very
+deep.
+
+An acre of good land here will produce more vegetables and fruit than in
+most other countries.
+
+Riding through the country we see plantations of coffee, sugar cane or
+tobacco, and also stock farms. Puerto Rico is fertile from the mountain
+tops to the sea. It is rich in pasture lands, shaded with groves of palm
+trees, and watered by hundreds of streams.
+
+Here and there herds of horses and cattle and flocks of sheep graze on
+the plains. When we approach the flocks of sheep, we discover a very
+curious thing. The wool on these sheep is not at all like the wool on
+the sheep raised in our own country. It is more like the hair of the
+goat.
+
+Cattle are highly valued by the people, not only for dairy and food
+purposes, but as beasts of burden and draft.
+
+Outside of the large plantations, crops are raised on a small scale; and
+modern implements and machinery are almost unknown.
+
+[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE IN PUERTO RICO.]
+
+Most of the land is divided up into very small farms or garden patches,
+or is taken up by groves.
+
+In the interior of the country are many little villages, shut out from
+the rest of the world. We reach them by the narrow horse-trails that
+wind in and out among the mountains.
+
+THE LABORER'S HILLSIDE HOME.
+
+Perched on the hilltops and sides, shaded by banana trees, are the
+picturesque little huts of the laborers. Most of them pay no rent. Land
+owners give them small patches of ground on the hillsides, which they
+themselves do not care to till, in order to have the laborers near or on
+the plantations to assist in cultivating or harvesting the sugar cane,
+tobacco and coffee crops.
+
+Here the peasant laborers build their cabins; and, when there is no work
+for them on the plantations, they tend their gardens in a haphazard way.
+By working a little each day they manage to make a scant living.
+
+Five months of the year they labor for their landlords, receiving about
+fifty cents a day.
+
+The laborer is often paid in plantains. Fifty plantains are a day's pay.
+On this he feeds his family, for the plantain is the Puerto Rican
+peasant's bread.
+
+The plantains left are taken to market and sold. One day a week is lost
+in this way, for the market is often twenty miles away.
+
+Near a stream on the mountain side we see a group of women. Some of them
+are sitting on stones by the bank; others are standing in the hot sun in
+midstream, and all are washing.
+
+It is wash day, and they have brought their clothes here to wash them.
+They have no tubs, wash-boards, clothes-pins, or clothes-lines.
+Sometimes they have no soap. In place of this, they use the seed or
+roots of the soapberry tree.
+
+The soap-seed tree bears several months in the year. The seed is
+inclosed in a yellow skin, and is black, and about the size of a marble.
+The leaf of a vine, called the soap vine is also used for the purpose of
+washing clothes.
+
+The clothes are first soaked in the stream or pond, and then spread
+upon a broad, smooth stone; after which they are pounded with clubs or
+stones. When they are clean, they are spread out upon the bushes to dry
+and bleach.
+
+[Illustration: COOKING THE EVENING MEAL.]
+
+Then the tired women rest under the trees, and chat, and perhaps smoke
+until evening. When the hot sun has gone down in the west, they make
+their damp and dry clothes up into huge bundles, lift them to their
+heads, and plod homeward.
+
+Let us follow them to their homes up on the mountain side. Some of the
+huts are built closely together. Others are scattered about on lonely
+ledges. Shall we go inside one of these huts? The woman who has just
+returned has thrown her burden into a corner.
+
+The fire has been carefully smoldered, and this she now blows into a
+flame and then proceeds to prepare the evening meal.
+
+About the other cottages are women squatting on their heels, gossiping
+with one another. In the ditch near by little children paddle about.
+Their voices are soft and pleasant, and their play merry and
+good-natured. We hear no quarreling.
+
+Now their mother calls them to bring in some sticks for the fire. When
+these are added to the flame, the firelight shines out in the darkness
+and guides the father on his homeward way.
+
+He has been working on the coffee plantation near, and is now climbing
+the narrow, winding path up the hill with his load of plantains. Perhaps
+the wife will cook some for supper.
+
+The children satisfy their hunger, and then creep into their corner or
+hammock and are soon fast asleep.
+
+Out in the darkness we hear the tinkle of a homemade guitar. Now
+another, and then another, takes up the Spanish or Indian air. Perhaps
+the beater of a drum is added to the little band of musicians which has
+gathered in an open space near the small village.
+
+The natives compose much of their own music, and wild, strange melody it
+is. It seems to inspire one with a wish to dance. The Puerto Ricans are
+very fond of this amusement, and when they hear the music of the band,
+they gather around for a frolic.
+
+Once a week, at least, they gather for a dance; and this, with their
+cock-fighting and gambling, is almost their only form of amusement.
+
+Few of these people can write or read. They have no books and can not
+afford to buy even a newspaper.
+
+The life of the peasant in Puerto Rico, you see, is not an easy or
+pleasant one; but he does not suffer from cold or hunger, as do the poor
+in northern countries.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+GLIMPSES OF OTHER CITIES.
+
+
+We have now a very good idea of San Juan and of rural life in districts
+near it.
+
+So let us travel about the island a bit, for glimpses of other parts of
+the country, and of the other important cities.
+
+The most comfortable way to do this would be to make the voyage around
+the island on board the ship, going ashore for sight-seeing when the
+ship makes port for freight.
+
+But this would give us no opportunity to see the interior of the island;
+so we make up our minds to endure poor roads in order to enjoy the mild
+adventures that fall to our lot (as all good travelers should do).
+
+We decide to celebrate the seventeenth of November, the anniversary of
+the discovery of the island, at the place where the ship of Columbus
+first touched land over four hundred years ago.
+
+We find no Pullman cars on the railroad which leaves San Juan for
+Aguadilla; but the novelty of the ride takes the place of the luxuries
+to which we are accustomed at home.
+
+[Illustration: SENDING SUGAR ABROAD.]
+
+The train goes leisurely along at the rate of sixteen miles an hour. We
+are glad that it goes no faster, for it gives us an opportunity to see
+the beautiful country through which we are passing.
+
+The line follows the coast most of the way. Upon one side are frequent
+views of the ocean, and upon the other a constant panorama of wonderful
+scenery.
+
+ARECIBO.
+
+A ride of four or five hours brings us to Arecibo, a town of 7,000
+people, on the north coast. It is the headquarters of the sugar
+industry, and the chief town of one of the most fruitful regions on the
+island.
+
+The harbor is very poor, being little more than an open roadstead. Into
+this harbor empties a small stream called the Arecibo. Goods are
+transported on this river, to and from the town, in flat-bottomed boats,
+with the aid of long poles and by much patient pushing.
+
+Along the river are valuable plantations of sugar and coffee, as also
+fine pastures.
+
+Arecibo boasts one of the most handsome and artistic plazas on the
+island. These plazas are usually paved with stone and devoid of
+vegetation; but this one has a small park in its center, surrounding a
+beautiful fountain.
+
+The cathedral, which faces the plaza, is larger than usual, and more
+modern than most of the church buildings in the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration: CATHEDRAL AT ARECIBO.]
+
+AGUADILLA.
+
+After a night spent in Arecibo we wish to hasten on to Aguadilla, but
+the railroad, we find, will not carry us so far. It ends at Camuy, a few
+miles west of Arecibo. Here we take a carriage for the remainder of the
+journey.
+
+[Illustration: DRYING AND HULLING COFFEE.]
+
+The old-fashioned coaches are drawn by small ponies, and these brave
+little animals carry us up hill and down hill, through deep mud holes,
+over rocks, into and out of ruts, at a terrific pace.
+
+We wonder that the carriage does not break and spill us out. The driver
+lashes the poor beasts until it seems as if his arms must be lame, but
+our protests have no effect on him.
+
+Aguadilla, a quiet, peaceful little city of 5,000, lies on the western
+coast. Here Columbus landed in search of water when he made his second
+voyage.
+
+He found a clear, rippling spring, with the water filled his casks, and
+continued on his way. On the shore stands a cross marking the spot where
+his boat's keel touched the sand.
+
+The town has beautiful trees, and is surrounded by choice grazing-lands.
+It is noted for its fish, sugar-cane, sweet oranges, and lemons.
+
+The cultivation of sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco and cocoanuts furnishes
+the industries of the neighborhood. We find the three establishments for
+the preparation of coffee for market very interesting places to visit.
+
+MAYAGUEZ.
+
+Leaving Aguadilla for Mayaguez, we take the tramway which connects the
+two towns. It is the only one on the island, and the people are very
+proud of it. But oh, what a ridiculous little road!
+
+It is a narrow gauge, not more than forty-seven inches wide. The cars
+are quite diminutive, and do not carry more than ten or twelve people.
+We can ride the length of the road, about two miles, for five cents.
+
+We see long lines of patient oxen plodding their way to the city,
+pulling clumsy carts piled high with oranges. Mayaguez is the market to
+which the best oranges in Puerto Rico come.
+
+Large, sweet, and luscious we find this fruit, the principal food of
+many of the people.
+
+It grows wild by the roadside, in the valleys, everywhere except on the
+hillsides. Such quantities of oranges! It seems as if enough of the
+fruit is grown in Puerto Rico to supply the whole of the United States.
+Yet very few oranges are sent away from the island. They can not be
+shipped profitably until good roads are built.
+
+The city of Mayaguez claims a population of 20,000 people. It has,
+probably, 12,000 to 15,000. It is the great western shipping port, is
+the third largest city, and the prettiest and most attractive city in
+Puerto Rico.
+
+Mayaguez is very different in appearance and customs from the other
+cities. We can scarcely realize that we are on the same island.
+
+The streets are macadamized, wide, shaded by trees, and lined with
+handsome shops and residences. The sidewalks are narrow,--only two can
+walk abreast on them.
+
+The town is well provided with public buildings. It has also three
+hospitals, a home for the destitute, a public library, good waterworks,
+is lighted by electricity, and possesses the only street-car line on the
+island. The principal plaza is a park of grand old shade trees. It
+contains a majestic statue of Columbus.
+
+The citizens are, many of them, coffee planters who have estates near
+the city. Each family of the better class dwells in a home of its own,
+instead of living in second stories.
+
+The poor people of the town are not so poor, or unclean, or shiftless,
+as the poorer classes at the capital.
+
+[Illustration: A VIEW IN PONCE, PUERTO RICO.]
+
+PONCE.
+
+To reach Ponce, the next city we wish to visit, we must use carriages as
+well as railways. It is on the southern side of the island.
+
+Ponce is the largest city in Puerto Rico, having a population of over
+thirty-seven thousand people. The main part is built on a plain about
+three miles from the seashore.
+
+A fine road connects it with Playa, the port, where are found a good
+harbor, large wharves and the more important government offices.
+
+Ponce has wide, clean streets, handsome buildings, and attractive homes.
+Many quaint and picturesque old buildings line its avenues; but in the
+newer parts of the town and in the suburbs the buildings are modern.
+
+It has a military hospital and barracks, two other hospitals, a home for
+the old and poor, gas works, and an ice machine. There are also
+establishments for hulling coffee, drying coffee, distilling rum,
+manufacturing carriages, and grinding sugar. (See illustrations on pages
+54 and 69).
+
+The large central plaza has pretty gardens and a cathedral.
+
+There are three manufactories of chocolate for the use of the people in
+the surrounding country. Sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples and
+cocoanuts are brought here to be shipped to the United States and other
+countries.
+
+Near the city are white-gypsum quarries; also medicinal baths, to which
+many invalids and travelers go.
+
+The only Protestant church in the West Indies is the Episcopal church
+here.
+
+On the outskirts of Ponce is an old cemetery, in which many famous
+Puerto Ricans of an early day were buried. It is quite different from
+our idea of a cemetery. It is one solid mass of masonry built into the
+side of a hill. In this are narrow vaults, one above the other.
+
+[Illustration: A FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+The openings of these vaults look much like bakers' ovens. The bottom
+vaults are used first, and when a body is laid in one of them it is
+sealed up and the name of the deceased graven on the outside. The next
+member of the family who dies is placed in the vault above; and so on,
+each family having a tier of vaults.
+
+As carriages and hearses are rare objects in Ponce, the coffin is
+sometimes carried on the shoulders of men. The procession is often
+composed of those attracted by curiosity, rather than the friends and
+relatives of the deceased.
+
+The people of Ponce are wide-awake, progressive and anxious to better
+their condition. They are also more hospitable and friendly than in
+other towns.
+
+It was here that the American army under General Miles proceeded in
+1898, after landing at Guanica. The troops received a hearty welcome
+from the inhabitants.
+
+The people were glad to be relieved from Spanish rule, and wished to
+have their land annexed to the United States.
+
+A proclamation of welcome was issued to the soldiers, feasts were
+spread, and the stars and stripes floated from many house tops.
+
+THE MILITARY ROAD.
+
+Now we are ready to return to San Juan, going northward over the great
+military road, one of the finest highways in the world.
+
+It is macadamized, is fifty feet wide, ninety-seven miles in length, and
+smooth and even as a boulevard. It crosses mountains which reach a
+height of almost four thousand feet. It winds in and out among the
+coffee-covered hills, giving us a fine view of the green mountains and
+the deep valleys below.
+
+Looking down we see patches of sugar cane and tobacco; groves of
+bananas, cocoanut, and palm trees; hedges of strange growth; unknown
+plants and vines, and fern-covered rocks.
+
+Here and there is a rude cabin surrounded by bread-fruit and banana
+trees. We pass picturesque little towns with blue and yellow houses and
+quaint churches, their spires towering upward. In fifteen hours we would
+reach San Juan, but we delay our journey in order to obtain a closer
+view of the scenery and of the homes of the people.
+
+Many happy hours we spend on the plantations in the country.
+
+During these country rides and visits we get our knowledge of the animal
+and plant life of the island.
+
+Let us stop, then, for a few days, at a country home by the seashore.
+
+A COUNTRY HOME.
+
+The residence of this home we find to be of good size and divided into
+rooms by partitions that reach only half way up to the roof. This is to
+give a free circulation of air. The house is thatched with palm leaves,
+and has a wide veranda running around it.
+
+Mosquito curtains are used to keep out the swarms of sand flies and
+mosquitoes that make the night uncomfortable.
+
+All doors and windows are closed before sunset and not opened until the
+moon is well up. Then large fires are lighted around the house to drive
+the mosquitoes away. This is for our benefit, for the natives do not
+mind these insects as much as we do. But we have other midnight
+visitors.
+
+Large fireflies fly in at the open windows and light up the room with
+their fairy lamps. And such wonderful fireflies, over an inch long!
+
+The people, the children especially, are very fond of these fireflies
+and frequently keep little cages of them for pets. They feed them on
+sugar-cane juice and bathe them as if they were birds.
+
+[Illustration: COUNTRY HOME OF THE BETTER CLASS.]
+
+Little crabs rattle gaily over the floor and sometimes crawl into our
+shoes, where we find them in the morning; friendly but ugly lizards
+croak from the walls and roof, where they pass the night hours in
+catching insects.
+
+These lizards are found in and about most of the houses and are
+harmless, useful little fellows. They are six or seven inches long, of a
+pale, yellowish color, mottled with brown.
+
+Instead of taking a morning bath in our rooms, we take a dip in the warm
+sea water. We find it hot, even very early in the morning; and as we
+walk to the shore in our bathing suits, we make a large palm leaf do
+duty as a sunshade.
+
+When we dress for breakfast we examine our clothes very closely, for the
+centipedes have a disagreeable way of taking strolls over one's clothing
+and the bedding.
+
+Our breakfast consists of turtle eggs, bread fruit, plantain and
+cocoanut milk. Our meals are served on the veranda, and there we spend
+the most of the day. Hammocks are swung from the beams, and, lying in
+them, we drink in the cool sea air and feast our eyes upon the beautiful
+surroundings.
+
+In the shallow water near the shore we find great pink conch shells. The
+fish in them we have made into soup for our dinner, and very good soup
+we find it.
+
+Sometimes we go out in the mountains with our host hunting for game, or
+for mountain cabbage for our dinner. Perhaps others would like to know
+what this mountain cabbage is, and we will tell them. It is the bud of a
+palm tree, a part of the trunk of which, when young, is edible. When
+cooked, it looks like very white cabbage; but the flavor is finer and
+more delicate. It is sometimes eaten raw, as a salad.
+
+The meat for our dinner consists of fish, and the flesh of the
+armadillo, the agouti and the iguana.
+
+These animals are queer looking creatures. As we wish to see them in
+their haunts in the woods and fields, we will accompany our host on some
+long walks and drives, in order to find out more about them.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ANIMAL LIFE.
+
+
+When Columbus visited the West Indies, he was delighted by the beauty in
+and about them. "I know not," he said, "where first to go; nor are my
+eyes ever weary with gazing on the wonderful verdure. The singing of the
+birds is such as to make one wish never to depart."
+
+The wonderful beauty of the country of which he spoke is unchanged; but
+we listen and look in vain for the singing birds. The hunter's gun has
+caused the disappearance of large numbers of the birds. Those remaining
+are found only in the forests.
+
+Columbus spoke also of the flocks of parrots "whose bright wings
+obscured the sun"; but we seldom see the brilliant plumage of these
+birds on our excursions.
+
+BIRDS.
+
+There are said to be about one hundred and fifty kinds of birds on the
+island of Puerto Rico. Among these are the mocking bird, the wild
+canary, the sugar bird, the thrush, the humming bird, the owl, the hawk,
+the dove, the cuckoo, the oriole, the nightingale, and the Guinea bird.
+During the migrating season, many other birds fly over from other
+islands.
+
+Flamingoes and other water birds are numerous on the coast.
+
+There is a parrot market in every port, however, and this is a popular
+place of resort. Here are cool trees and drinking stands, or booths,
+where cocoanut milk and cool drinks are sold.
+
+The birds are not usually confined to cages, but are left to climb
+about the booths. The natives love these birds and make great pets of
+them. The birds are tame and quite accomplished in the art of begging.
+When the passer-by extends his hand, they walk into it for the sake of
+the gifts which they know will come.
+
+But the bird which is oftenest seen is the fighting or game-cock. The
+streets and market places are full of these. They are the pets and often
+the most valued possessions of their owners.
+
+OTHER ANIMAL LIFE.
+
+[Illustration: THE ARMADILLO]
+
+The scorpions, centipedes, wasps, sand flies, fleas and mosquitoes
+manage to make things lively for us much of the time.
+
+One enterprising and annoying insect, the chigoe, or "jigger," is able
+to bore a hole through the sole of a shoe and attack the foot.
+
+There are no poisonous serpents or dangerous wild animals in the
+country; so we travel about through field and forest without fear.
+
+The boa, which is occasionally seen, is huge and alarming in
+appearance; but it is looked upon as a friend rather than an enemy. It
+is of great service to the farmer in clearing his place of rats.
+
+The largest native animals we find to be the armadillo, the agouti, and
+the iguana.
+
+The agouti is a little animal resembling a rabbit. It lives on vegetable
+food, and finds a home in the rocky hillsides and on the borders of the
+woods. As game is not plentiful, it is sometimes used for food.
+
+The armadillo and iguana are preferred for food, however. It is not an
+easy matter to catch an armadillo. It has a shell on its back, and into
+this it promptly retreats at the first sign of danger. It has a long,
+pointed snout and strong, sharp claws. It can dig a hole in the ground
+almost as fast as a man can dig with a pick and spade; so, when an enemy
+appears, it digs a hole and buries itself from sight. It is not a
+troublesome animal. It lives chiefly upon beetles, grubs and worms,
+which it hunts by night.
+
+The iguana is a lizard which feeds on fruits and vegetables. It grows to
+three or four feet in length, and is an ugly looking creature. It will
+not fight unless you compel it to do so. It does not live in the water,
+but in trees, bushes, and in the cracks and fissures of rocks. Sometimes
+hunters build fires at the entrance of their hiding places and smoke
+them out. The flesh, when cooked, resembles chicken or veal, and is a
+popular dish with the natives.
+
+But the most delicious meat of all comes from the land crabs and the
+crayfish. These are caught in great numbers when the crabs migrate from
+the mountains to the coast. Once a year they make this journey, for the
+purpose of depositing their eggs in the sand.
+
+The sea fisheries are important to the people of Puerto Rico. The coast
+waters and fresh water streams swarm with fishes of strange shapes and
+gaudy colors.
+
+Among these are the shad, sardines, Spanish mackerel, dolphins, flying
+fish, sting rays and sharks. The sponge, the manatee and the whale are
+also found near the island.
+
+Suppose some one were to ask you to what kingdom the sponge belonged.
+Could you tell? Many years ago people believed that it belonged to the
+vegetable kingdom; but it is now known to belong to the animal kingdom.
+
+The animals attach themselves to rocks, shells and other hard substances
+below water.
+
+Mussels, clams and sponges are cultivated to some extent. Mollusks are
+useful in many other ways than as food. Their shells are used for making
+buttons, parasol handles and shirt studs. Sometimes they are used for
+making roads. Many shiploads of these shells are brought to New York
+from Puerto Rico and other parts of the West Indies every year.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+PLANT LIFE.
+
+
+Puerto Rico seems to us to be one big flower garden. All kinds of fruit
+grow wild and most wild plants blossom and bear fruit several times a
+year.
+
+Cultivated fruits, flowers and vegetables are planted several times a
+year in order that a fresh supply may always be at hand. Flowers bloom
+every month of the year, but are most plentiful in June. Ferns, in some
+instances, grow to spreading trees, with graceful drooping fronds. Many
+plants have colored leaves which are as brilliant as the flowers
+themselves.
+
+[Illustration: BRANCH AND FRUIT OF THE CACAO TREE.]
+
+Everywhere grow trees and shrubs valuable for their fruit or for their
+medicinal qualities.
+
+The leading crops are sugar cane, coffee and tobacco. Over one-half of
+the exports consists of coffee, and a little less than one-fourth, of
+sugar. Cacao and fruits make a large part of the remainder.
+
+[Illustration: A PUERTO RICAN SUGAR MILL.]
+
+Rice forms the chief food of the laboring classes, and this grows, not
+on the wet lowlands, as in our country, but on the mountain sides.
+
+Bananas and plantains are two of the important food products. Next to
+these, the yam and the sweet potato form the diet of the natives.
+
+Among the fruit trees we find cocoanut palms, tamarinds, prickly pears,
+guavas, mangoes, bananas, oranges, limes, cacao (or cocao) trees and
+lemons.
+
+Among the spices found here are the pimento, or allspice, nutmeg, clove,
+pepper, mace, cinnamon, ginger, and vanilla.
+
+The hills are covered with forests, which, yield valuable timber and dye
+woods. Among these are mahogany, cedar, ebony, and lignum-vitae trees.
+Logwood and other dye materials are common.
+
+Many varieties of the palm flourish here,--the cocoanut palm producing
+fruit in greater abundance than in any other country of the West Indies.
+
+THE COCOA PALM.
+
+The most abundant cocoanut groves in the world are said to be found on
+Puerto Rico and the other islands of the Antilles. This tree usually
+grows near the coast, for it loves the salt water; but it is sometimes
+found on the hill slopes a short distance inland.
+
+"The tree grows to a height of from sixty to eighty feet, lives a
+hundred years, bears a hundred nuts each year, and is said to have a
+hundred uses for man."
+
+The trees bear such heavy burdens of fruit that it seems impossible that
+so slender a trunk could hold such a weight of fruit in the air. The
+fruit is expensive when it comes to us, because of the difficulty in
+climbing the trees, gathering the nuts, and removing from them the heavy
+fibrous husks.
+
+[Illustration: GATHERING COCOANUTS.]
+
+Here is a negro gathering cocoanuts. Let us watch him. He climbs the
+tall tree, dragging a rope after him. About his waist is a belt in which
+is thrust a machete.
+
+He hacks off a bunch of the nuts and attaches it to the end of the rope.
+It is then lowered to another negro or to the ground. The nuts are in
+bunches of a dozen or two, and are covered with a green, smooth, shining
+covering.
+
+After the bunches of nuts are all removed from the tree, the climber
+throws down the rope and comes down hand over hand.
+
+These nuts are so large that a single one often yields two glasses of
+milk.
+
+We found that the natives made boats and furniture, as well as houses,
+from the trunk of this palm tree. They extract from its roots a remedy
+for fever. The foot stalks of the leaves are made into combs. The leaves
+are used for thatching huts and in making baskets, mats and hats.
+
+The fibrous material at the base of the foot stalks is used for sieves,
+and woven into clothing. A medicine is made from the flowers, and from
+the flower-stalks palm wine is made. From the juice is made sugar and
+vinegar. From the fruit or nut, water, jelly and meat are obtained. Oil
+is extracted from the kernel; and the refuse is used for food for fowls
+and cattle, as well as for manure.
+
+From the husks ropes, brooms, brushes, and bedding are made. The shells
+are used as lamps, cups, spoons, and scoops.
+
+It has been called the poor man's tree because it gives him food, drink,
+medicine and material with which to build his home.
+
+The tropics could not do without the palm. It is more to that region
+than the pine is to the north.
+
+THE CALABASH TREE.
+
+Another very useful tree to the natives is the calabash, or gourd tree.
+It provides him with many household utensils. In height and size it
+resembles an apple tree. Its leaves are wedge-shaped and its flowers are
+large, whitish and fleshy.
+
+The fruit is something like a gourd and often a foot in diameter. The
+shell of the fruit is so hard that it is not easily broken by rough
+usage or burnt by exposure to fire. It is used instead of bottles, cups,
+basins, dishes, pots and kettles, and to make musical instruments.
+
+Sometimes the calabashes are polished, carved, dyed or otherwise
+ornamented. The pulp of the fruit is used as a medicine.
+
+THE TRAVELER'S TREE.
+
+One of the most curious and beautiful trees on the island is the
+traveler's tree. It is so named because it contains in its leaves and at
+their bases a large quantity of pure water.
+
+By piercing the leaves with a spear or pike the water is drawn out, and
+found cool and refreshing. It often relieves the thirst of the traveler
+in this warm country.
+
+BREAD FRUIT.
+
+Among the fruit products used in large quantities are the bread-fruit
+and bread-nuts. These trees grow very large and have wide-spreading
+branches about fifty feet from the ground.
+
+The leaves are, very broad, and the fruit looks something like an ovoid
+osage orange as large as one's head.
+
+[Illustration: BREADFRUIT.]
+
+The fruit is best when picked green, and baked in an oven or in the
+ashes, after paring away the outer skin or rind. When done it resembles
+a browned loaf of bread. It is very good and, wholesome, too; but it
+tastes more like baked plantain than bread.
+
+The bread-nuts look on the outside like the bread-fruit, but the inside
+contains a great mass of closely packed nuts like large chestnuts. These
+are not good raw, but are fine when baked or boiled.
+
+ANNOTTO.
+
+We have often heard people speak of butter and cheese being colored, but
+did not know that the dairyman was obliged to send to the West Indies
+for his dye. The bush which provides it is called the annotto or
+annatto. It grows to the size of the quince tree. The leaves are
+heart-shaped; and the rosy flowers are followed by fuzzy red-and-yellow
+pods, something like chestnut burs.
+
+These small burs are filled with a crimson pulp containing many seeds.
+This pulp is immersed in water a few weeks, strained and boiled to a
+paste. The paste is made into cakes and dried in the sun. Then it comes
+to our country and appears upon our tables in butter or cheese.
+
+Can you tell me where bay rum comes from? We have often wondered, and
+find here an answer to the question. It is furnished by the bay tree,
+which grows here. The leaves are distilled and the oil extracted from
+them to furnish this perfume for the bath.
+
+SPICES.
+
+Spices, in some form, are served every day upon our table; yet few of us
+know where they come from, or where, how, or upon what they grow.
+
+We have heard of the Spice Islands, perhaps, and we just take it for
+granted that they all grow there. We are very much surprised, then, to
+find many of the spices in Puerto Rico.
+
+ALLSPICE, OR PIMENTO.
+
+The pimento spice is native to this soil. The groves of these trees are
+beautiful. The trees grow to a height of thirty feet, their stems are
+smooth and clean, and their leaves glossy.
+
+[Illustration: BRANCH AND BUD OF PIMENTO (ALL-SPICE).]
+
+The trees bear fruit when about seven years old. The berries are
+gathered green and dried in the sun. The branches to which the berries
+are attached are broken off by boys and thrown to girls and women, who
+pick off the berries, and take them to the drying places. One tree
+sometimes bears a hundred pounds.
+
+The tree likes the hills and mountains along the sea, a hot climate and
+a dry atmosphere.
+
+THE NUTMEG TREE.
+
+The nutmeg tree grows to a height of thirty to fifty feet. The ripe
+fruit looks somewhat like the apricot on the outside. It bursts in two
+and shows the dark nut covered with mace, a bright scarlet. This is
+stripped off and pressed flat. The shells are broken open when perfectly
+dry, and the nuts powdered with lime to prevent the attacks of worms.
+
+The tree bears the sixth or seventh year,--the nuts becoming ripe six
+months after the flower appears. Twenty thousand nuts are sometimes
+gathered from one tree.
+
+Other important growths we find to be pepper, which begins to bear when
+five years old and may bear for thirty years; the vanilla bean, which
+proves to be very profitable when properly cared for; and cacao, which
+requires eight years to come to full fruitage, but is an invaluable
+plant.
+
+MINERALS.
+
+Puerto Rico has no mines or minerals of any consequence, except a little
+iron. Foundries for magnetic iron have been established at Ponce, San
+Juan and Mayaguez.
+
+Gold, silver, copper and coal are known to exist in small quantities
+beneath the surface, but not in sufficient amount to be mined.
+
+The island is well supplied with limestone, which makes an excellent
+building material. Marble, also, is easily obtained. Along the coast are
+occasional marshes where salt is prepared for market.
+
+OUR JOURNEY'S END.
+
+Our month in Puerto Rico is drawing to a close, and the good ship which
+is to bear us homeward is waiting in the harbor.
+
+We make a last farewell tour of the shops in San Juan, and buy a few
+gifts for the friends at home: a green parrot to please sister; a
+tortoise-shell comb for mother; a cane for father, a native hat for
+brother, and a calabash drinking bowl for the school museum.
+
+It is with reluctant steps that we make our way to the ship. The clear
+sky, the perfect climate, the constant verdure, the wonderful plants and
+trees, and the beautiful mountain scenery make Puerto Rico one of the
+most attractive lands to be found anywhere.
+
+Although the roads are in a deplorable condition, a new system has been
+planned, and will probably be soon completed.
+
+Though the country may lack school buildings, the cities and towns are
+better provided with other public buildings than most places of the same
+size in the United States. And the eagerness with which the people seize
+upon the statements that their children are to be given the same
+opportunity for an education as children in the United States have,
+indicates that the schoolhouses will soon dot the island.
+
+The streets of the smallest villages are paved, and all contain some
+place of recreation and attempts at ornamentation. Each village has one
+or more public squares laid out with trees, walks, flowers, seats, and
+usually with a band stand in the center.
+
+We do not find these improvements in all our own small towns. But the
+people need better schools, more nourishing food, and improved methods
+of farming. Sanitary measures need to be introduced into the homes and
+communities. Harbors need to be dredged, that ships may come closer to
+land. The water power of many rushing streams needs to be chained and
+made to generate electricity, to grind corn, to hull coffee, to cook
+food, to pull cars, and to light cities.
+
+There should also be fountains, baths, and sewers; the land in certain
+sections should be irrigated, and the streams should be bridged, that
+means for travel and transportation may be afforded.
+
+Perhaps all this will be done, ere we visit this island again. At any
+rate, we sincerely hope that this may be the beginning of a new and
+better day for Puerto Rico.
+
+[Illustration: PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY.]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+REFERENCE BOOKS.
+
+
+ "Our New Possessions," by Trumbull White. Cloth, 676 pp........$2.00
+ "Puerto Rico and Its Resources," by Frederick A. Ober.......... 1.50
+ "The West Indies," by A. K. Fisk. 414 pp....................... 1.50
+ "Porto Rico," Hall............................................. 1.00
+ "Porto Rico," Rector........................................... 1.25
+ "Porto Rico," Dinwiddie........................................ 2.50
+ "Porto Rico," Robinson......................................... 1.50
+ "The West Indies and the Main"................................. 1.75
+ "At Last" and "A Christmas in the West Indies," Kingsley.......
+ "Three Cruises of the Blake," Alexander Agassiz. 2 vol......... 8.00
+ "Down the Islands," Palon...................................... 2.50
+ "The West Indies," Fiske....................................... 1.50
+ "In the Wake of Columbus," Ober................................ 2.00
+ "Due South," Ballou............................................ 1.50
+ "The Foreign Commerce of Our Possessions," etc., Treasury
+ Department, Washington.....................................
+ "Porto Rico," National Geographic Magazine, '99, 25 cts.
+ a number; per year......................................... 2.00
+
+These books may be obtained from A. FLANAGAN Co., Chicago, Ill., at
+price given. Considerable reductions may be secured, if several volumes
+are purchased at one time.
+
+
+
+
+TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT
+
+ * * * * *
+
+A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO
+
+ * * * * *
+
+SPECIAL SUGGESTIONS.
+
+
+Children love to read or hear of the people of other lands, and the
+tactful teacher will wrap her information about the natural features of
+a country in the "sugared pill of stories."
+
+Books of travel are helpful and interesting in linking together fact and
+story. From them the child comes to feel a sympathetic interest in the
+ways of people unlike those he knows.
+
+By emphasizing the idea of continuity of beliefs and customs, we impress
+the child with the most important lesson history and geography hold for
+him,--that all countries and peoples are closely related and have mutual
+interests.
+
+"The acquisition of this feeling of the inter-relationship of the
+nations of the world, while starting the child out with a broad view of
+life, will in no wise lessen his love for his own country."
+
+Too often the lonely little stranger in our midst--the foreigner--is
+viewed with heartless curiosity, or contempt, and subjected to ridicule.
+Patriotism to many a child means nothing more than a belief that our own
+country is the best, our own people the smartest, and that we can whip
+any and every other nation on the globe.
+
+Do the children know that the "blood that boils so hotly against other
+countries is drawn from the very same sources that feed the veins of our
+seemingly alien neighbors"?
+
+If any teacher imagines that her pupils have a definite idea of the
+meaning of patriotism because they are able to sing "America" and the
+"Star-Spangled Banner," let her read Marion Hill's story, entitled "The
+Star-Spangled Banner," in McClure's Magazine for July (1900).
+
+THE TRAVEL CLASS.
+
+Nothing in the study of geography is more interesting or helpful to
+pupils than the taking of imaginary journeys. It makes geography a
+_live_ subject.
+
+Suggest that your pupils organize a Travel Club, and that some of the
+trips be personally conducted.
+
+Maps and a globe should be in constant use. The home should be the
+starting point. Railroad circulars, maps, and time-cards for free
+distribution will be found valuable. Pupils should be taught _how to
+use_ these maps and time cards.
+
+Give pupils a choice as to routes or roads over which they are to
+travel. Each pupil, however, should be able to give a reason for his
+preference for any particular road, and must know the number of miles
+and the time required for the journey. The road or route voted upon by
+the majority may then be decided upon, and preparations made for the
+trip.
+
+Find out the best time to go to each particular country, and the reason.
+What clothes it will be best to wear and to take with one. About how
+much money it will be necessary to spend on such a trip, and when and
+where this money should be changed into the coin or currency used in the
+country we expect to visit.
+
+A _Guide_ may be appointed to obtain time-tables, maps, railroad guides,
+the little books of travel, or other descriptions of routes and of the
+parts of the country that are to be visited. (Further suggestions in
+regard to these "helps" will be found elsewhere in this book.)
+
+The principal features of the country passed through may be described,
+if time permits; also the more important cities. Note the population,
+occupations, productions, together with anything of special interest or
+historical importance associated with the city or locality.
+
+The _Guide_ takes charge of the class in the same way that a tourist
+guide would do. He escorts us from the home depot to the city, state, or
+country, pointing out the route on a map suspended before the class.
+
+Arriving at the city or country, he takes us to the various points of
+interest, telling as much about each as he is able, and answering
+questions pupils may wish to ask. If the guide can not answer all
+questions, the teacher or some other member of the party may.
+
+When the guide has finished with a topic or section, other members of
+the party may give items of interest concerning it.
+
+A different pupil may act as guide to each city or part of the country
+visited, and each pupil should come to the class with a list of
+questions about the places.
+
+Every pupil in the class may take some part, either as guide, or as the
+class artist, musician, librarian, historian, geographer, geologist,
+botanist, zoologist, or man of letters.
+
+A _Historian_ may tell us of the history of the country, and answer all
+questions of historical interest.
+
+A _Geographer_ may tell of the location on the globe, of the natural
+land formations of mountains, canons, prairies, rivers, etc., and of the
+climate resulting from these. He should illustrate his remarks.
+
+A _Geologist_ may assist, and show specimens of minerals and fossils, or
+pictures of these.
+
+A _Botanist_ may tell us of native plants, useful or ornamental, and
+show pictures of these if possible. A _Zoologist_ tells of the native
+animals, their habits and uses.
+
+The geographer, geologist, botanist, and zoologist direct the work at
+the sand table, and assist in reproducing the country in miniature.
+
+The _Merchants_ and _Tradesmen_ tell us of the products for which their
+country is noted, and show samples of as many as it is possible to
+secure. They also tell what they import, and why.
+
+A _Librarian_ or Correspondent may visit the library for information
+sought by the club. He must be able to give a list of books of travel,
+and be ready to read or quote extracts referring to the places visited
+on the tour.
+
+He or his assistant may also clip all articles of interest from papers,
+magazines, and other sources, and arrange these, as well as the
+articles secured by other pupils, in a scrapbook, devoted to each
+country.
+
+The _Artist_ and his assistant may tell us about the famous artists and
+their works, if any. He may illustrate his remarks with pictures, if he
+can obtain or make them.
+
+The _Club Artist_ may also place upon the board in colored crayons the
+flag, the coat of arms, and the national flower of the country.
+
+A _Photographer_ may be appointed to provide or care for the photographs
+and pictures used in the class talks. The photographs may often be
+borrowed from tourists or others. Pictures may be obtained from
+magazines, railroad pamphlets, the illustrated papers, or from the Perry
+Pictures, and mounted on cardboard or arranged by the artist in a
+scrapbook with the name of the country on the cover.
+
+If the members of the travel or geography class are not provided with
+the "LITTLE JOURNEYS," the teacher should have at least two copies. The
+pictures from one of these books should be removed and mounted for class
+use. They may be mounted on a screen, or on cardboard, and placed about
+the room or grouped in a corner. They should be allowed to remain there
+during the month, that all the pupils may have an opportunity to examine
+them.
+
+Another pupil may collect curiosities. Many families in each
+neighborhood will be able to contribute some curio. Pupils in other
+rooms in the building will be interested in collecting and loaning
+material for this little museum and picture gallery.
+
+Coins and stamps may be placed with this collection. Begin a stamp
+album, and collect the stamps of all the countries studied. The stamps
+of many countries show the heads of the rulers. One of the most
+attractive of these is the United States postage stamp showing "Columbus
+in Sight of Land."
+
+The album should be kept on the reading table with the scrapbooks, in
+order that pupils may have access to it during their periods of leisure.
+
+Dolls may be dressed in the national costume or to represent historical
+personages.
+
+This form of construction work may be done outside of school hours by
+pupils under the direction of the historian and artist. The dolls, when
+dressed, may be made the centers of court, home, field or forest scenes
+arranged on the sand table.
+
+A _Musician_ or musicians may tell us of the characteristic music of the
+country, and of famous singers or composers. She may also sing or play
+the national song or air of the country, if there be one.
+
+The singer should be dressed in national costume, if it is possible to
+secure it, or to make it out of calico, paper, or some other cheap
+material.
+
+A _Man of Letters_ may tell of the famous men and women of the country
+through which we are traveling, and may visit their homes with us. He
+may call attention to the literature of the people and give selections
+from noted writers, from or about the places visited.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP.
+
+With maps, guide-books, time-tables and notebooks before us, we look up
+the steamer lines and routes and decide when, where, and how to go.
+(Good maps will be found in the railroad guide-books).
+
+City newspapers publish once a week the lines of steamboats and their
+times of sailing. The steamboat agents also furnish advertising matter
+giving other necessary and interesting information.
+
+When we have decided upon our route, we telegraph ahead for our
+staterooms. Now let us plan for our baggage. What kind of a trunk must
+we take? Why a steamer trunk? How large must this be? What will we do
+with this trunk when we leave the boat? (We are advised to leave it and
+part of its contents at the ship company's office. They will store it
+until we are ready to take the return trip). How many pounds of baggage
+are we allowed on the steamer?
+
+What other baggage shall we take (hand bags)? Why not small trunks?
+(Because every pound of baggage must be paid for in some countries.)
+Many countries have not our convenient system of checking baggage. What
+else will we need? (Traveling rugs.)
+
+What clothes must we take? First, we must take warm clothes for steamer
+wear, which may be packed away when we arrive. Then we must take
+traveling suits for train wear, and thin clothing to use after arriving
+at our destination.
+
+We have promised friends at home that we will inform them of our safe
+arrival immediately. How can we do this? By mail? Is there not a quicker
+way? How many know of the cable? How many have ever sent a cablegram?
+Can we cable from Puerto Rico? How much will it cost? Our guide-books
+give us all this information.
+
+We must have guide-books, phrase books, toilet articles and writing
+materials. These should be packed in linen or canvas bags, because more
+easily carried about than heavy leather satchels.
+
+Our guide must be able to speak Spanish, for that is the language of the
+Puerto Rican people.
+
+If one of our party acts as guide, we must be careful to select a
+polite, tactful, and, above all, a patient and good-natured person.
+Why?--Because his patience will be severely taxed many times during this
+trip.
+
+Arriving at the city from which we are to sail, we visit points of
+interest, the docks especially, and compare our steamer with others,
+learning what we can about all the ships in the harbor.
+
+If our lesson is well planned, we can accomplish a great deal the day we
+sail.
+
+CLASS WORK.
+
+After two or three conversational lessons, let pupils begin their
+diaries (composition books). In these may be written descriptions of
+what they see, hear, or read about the place being studied or visited.
+
+In most schools will be found one or more pupils who have been upon or
+crossed the ocean. Let them give both oral and written descriptions of
+the voyage.
+
+In giving accounts of these journeys, have pupils describe the incidents
+and details of everyday life on ship-board. They may tell of the ship,
+its furnishings, rigging, engines, officers and crew.
+
+Let them also describe the dining room, the meals, and the manner of
+serving.
+
+They may further describe a stateroom or berth, and picture their fellow
+passengers in words or drawings.
+
+It will greatly cultivate their power of expression to tell how the time
+on board the vessel was passed, and to narrate any interesting
+occurrences of the voyage. They may describe the ocean by day and by
+night; also its appearance in a storm.
+
+Many will be interested in descriptions of the birds that were met and
+of the fishes that swarmed about the ship.
+
+If time will not permit each pupil to give oral descriptions or to write
+compositions on each topic, assign a different topic to each pupil. Bind
+all papers together, when finished, to keep with scrap-books devoted to
+the country visited.
+
+These diaries or reproduction stories may be illustrated with pictures
+clipped from illustrated papers and other sources or by original
+drawings.
+
+Try to secure specimens of seaweed to be exhibited to pupils during the
+lesson on the sea voyage. Ask pupils to secure ocean shells, sponges,
+pictures of sea birds, and specimens or pictures of other animal and
+plant life in the ocean.
+
+AFTERNOONS ABROAD.
+
+At the conclusion of the study of a country, a topic may be assigned to
+each pupil, or selected by him. With this topic he is to become
+thoroughly familiar.
+
+In place of the old-time review, invitations may be issued by the
+pupils, and the results of the month's work be summed up in the form of
+an entertainment, called--
+
+AFTERNOONS OR EVENINGS ABROAD.
+
+When a class, club, or school has been studying a country, the work may
+be brought to a close in a way that pupils and their parents and friends
+will enjoy and remember, by giving _An Afternoon or Evening Abroad_.
+
+This form of geography review would be appreciated more particularly in
+villages, or in country districts, where entertainments, books,
+pictures, and opportunities for study and social intercourse are rarer
+than in cities.
+
+At the conclusion of an afternoon talk or entertainment, any pictures
+used may be placed on the chalk tray along the blackboard, that visitors
+may examine them more closely.
+
+If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be able to
+use stereopticon views.
+
+These will prove a very great attraction to both pupils and parents, and
+should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp may be easily
+operated by the teacher while the pupils give the descriptions of the
+pictures or give talks about the country.
+
+The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or afternoon at
+reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee of from ten
+to twenty-five cents. In sending for catalogue and terms, ask for the
+paper used to darken windows if the lantern is to be used in the
+afternoon.
+
+Two of the largest dealers in stereopticon views and lanterns are T. H.
+McAllister, 49 Nassau St., New York, and the McIntosh Stereopticon Co.,
+35 Randolph St. Chicago.
+
+SUGGESTIONS.
+
+For the afternoons abroad, given as geography reviews, or as a part of
+the Friday afternoon exercises, invitations may be written out by the
+pupils, or mimeographed, or hectographed, and carried to friends and
+parents.
+
+If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by stereopticon
+views, handbills may be printed and circulated, at least a week
+beforehand. The following form may be used:--
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT.
+
+A TRIP TO PUERTO RICO FOR TEN CENTS.
+
+You are invited by the pupils of the _____________ school [or the
+members of the Travel Class or Club] to spend _an evening_ [_or
+afternoon_] _in Puerto Rico_.
+
+The party starts promptly at 1.30 P.M. [or 8 P.M.], November 1st. Those
+desiring to take this trip should secure tickets before the day of
+sailing, as the party is limited. Guides are furnished free.
+
+The proceeds of this entertainment are to be used in the purchase of a
+library, and of pictures and stereopticon views for the school.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+A PUERTO RICAN MARKET PLACE.
+
+Decorate the room with ferns, potted palms and other tropical plants, or
+pictures of them. (Exact reproductions in paper or other material can
+now be procured at small cost.) On one side of the room have one table
+devoted to Puerto Rican curios; another to fruits and vegetables; and a
+third to other products from the island. (Or fit up one end or corner as
+a market place in San Juan or Ponce.)
+
+Explain your plan for the entertainment to your groceryman and other
+merchants most convenient to your school, and enlist their aid. They
+will usually be willing to lend products imported from or native to the
+country.
+
+For a list of the fruits and vegetables to be exhibited in the market
+place, see the list given when on a visit to the market place at San
+Juan. (See p. 22).
+
+On the product-tables arrange pieces of sugar cane, samples of raw,
+loaf, granulated, and powdered sugar, and of molasses. If possible to
+secure the stalks of sugar cane, have short lengths to be sold for
+consumption--as in Puerto Rico. Near the table, tack up pictures of
+sugar plantations and mills. Have the coffee-berry and beans, ground
+coffee, cups of coffee prepared as a drink, and pictures of the tree,
+fruit, and coffee plantations; also secure specimens of the fruit of the
+cacao tree, a cake of solid chocolate, chocolate candy, and a cake
+containing chocolate layers. Cups of cacao or chocolate may be prepared
+as a drink. Have near pictures of the cacao tree and fruit.
+
+Secure, if possible, samples of rice, allspice, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon,
+pepper, cloves, ginger and vanilla; bottles of clove oil and bay rum;
+packages of the annatto and logwood dyes; sponges, tortoise-shell combs,
+and articles made of cedar, ebony, or mahogany, or pieces of these
+woods.
+
+The tables and booths in the market places should be presided over by
+pupils dressed as Puerto Ricans, and venders should go about the room,
+after the entertainment is over, with native wares to sell.
+
+Among these venders will be the bread man, the milk man, the fruit and
+vegetable man, the dulce seller, and the vender of ices.
+
+These venders should, if possible, carry their wares as the Puerto
+Ricans do.
+
+
+COSTUMES.
+
+The girls may be costumed in very simply made white dresses.
+Handkerchiefs may be tied about the head, for head coverings.
+
+The boys may be dressed in loose white trousers, girdled at the waist by
+a belt of leather, a white shirt, and a silk or cotton handkerchief
+around the neck.
+
+A broad brimmed hat may be worn.
+
+The dulce seller carries guava, pieces of pineapple, preserved fruits,
+chocolate candy, fresh cocoanut meat, grated cocoanut, etc.
+
+The bread vender carries small rolls on his tray. The milk man carries
+his can upon his head, ready to serve milk from tin cups which are tied
+to the sides of the can.
+
+
+REFRESHMENTS.
+
+These may be served during an intermission or at the close of the
+entertainment, and may consist of the national drinks, orangeade,
+lemonade, chocolate, coffee, cocoanut milk, and of rolls, cheese, native
+fruits and confectionery.
+
+The pupils who serve these refreshments should be prepared to tell
+something of the way in which these refreshments are prepared and served
+in Puerto Rico.
+
+One of the favorite drinks of the people of Puerto Rico is orangeade.
+This is made as we make lemonade, except that the juice of the orange is
+used in place of that of the lemon. In making lemonade they use limes
+more frequently than lemons.
+
+Coffee and chocolate are drinks also very much in use. The chocolate is
+made about the consistency of thick gruel and served with a light, thin
+cake.
+
+The coffee is made very strong and only a small amount placed in the
+cup. The cup is then filled with boiling milk.
+
+Among the favorite sweetmeats are the guava jelly and marmalade. The
+jelly looks much like our currant jelly; the marmalade resembles quince
+marmalade. It is usually served with cheese.
+
+Secure some of these sweetmeats for the booth or shop, and serve bits to
+those who wish to buy. The small, flat boxes are the best for this
+purpose.
+
+Fresh cocoanut meat should be removed from the shell and divided into
+penny squares, that the pupils may be able to buy a bit for a penny.
+
+
+AN AFTERNOON IN PUERTO RICO.
+
+PROGRAMME.
+
+1. Introductory remarks by the guide, who explains our plan of
+celebrating the anniversary of the discovery of Puerto Rico by Columbus,
+Nov. 17, 1493, by a journey to that island, Nov. 17, 1900, to be spent
+at Aguadilla, the first landing place of Columbus on Puerto Rico.
+
+2. Another pupil gives a short talk on the location, size and surface of
+Puerto Rico, using a large map.
+
+3. History of Puerto Rico by the class historian.
+
+4. Climate of Puerto Rico, with description of a West Indies hurricane.
+
+5. Preparation for the trip.
+
+6. Recitation--"Southern Seas" (given on the following pages).
+
+7. Song,--"Life on the Ocean Wave."
+
+8. Description of our voyage, by a pupil who has made an ocean voyage.
+
+9. Harbor and city of San Juan.
+
+10. Points of interest in the city.
+
+11. Homes and home life of the people of the island.
+
+12. Characteristics of the people of Puerto Rico.
+
+13. Child life and education.
+
+14. Amusements.
+
+15. Burden-Bearing.
+
+16. Travel.
+
+17. The farmer.
+
+18. The laborer.
+
+19. Glimpses of cities in Puerto Rico.
+
+20. A country home.
+
+21. Animal life.
+
+22. Plant life.
+
+23. Recitation, "Puerto Rico," poem.
+
+24. Conclusion.
+
+25. Announcements.
+
+26. Song--"America."
+
+Before the concluding song, announcement may be made of the plan for a
+series of afternoons or evenings abroad. Speak of the purpose of these
+entertainments and express a hope that all those present will attend the
+next entertainment--"An Afternoon [or Evening] in Hawaii."
+
+
+ SOUTHERN SEAS.
+
+
+ Yes! let us mount this gallant ship,
+ Spread canvas to the wind;--
+ Up! we will seek the glowing South,--
+ Leave care and cold behind.
+
+ Let the shark pursue, through the waters blue,
+ Our flying vessel's track;
+ Let the strong winds blow, and rocks below
+ Threaten,--we turn not back.
+
+ See, where those shoals of dolphins go!
+ A glad and glorious band,
+ Sporting amongst the roseate woods
+ Of a coral fairy land.
+
+ See on the violet sands beneath
+ How the gorgeous shells do glide!
+ O sea! old sea! who yet knows half
+ Of thy wonders and thy pride?
+
+ Look how the sea-plants trembling float,
+ As it were like a mermaid's locks,
+ Waving in thread of ruby red
+ Over those nether rocks,--
+
+ Heaving and sinking, soft and fair,
+ Here hyacinth, there green,
+ With many a stem of golden growth,
+ And starry flowers between.
+
+ But oh, the South! the balmy South!
+ How warm the breezes float!
+ How warm the amber waters stream
+ From off our basking boat!
+
+ And what is that?
+ "'Tis land! 'Tis land!
+ 'Tis land!" the sailors cry.
+ Nay! 'tis a long and narrow cloud
+ Betwixt the sea and sky.
+
+ And now I mark the rising shores!
+ The purple hills! the trees!
+ O what a glorious land is here,
+ What happy scenes are these!
+
+ See how the tall palms lift their locks
+ From mountain clefts,--what vales,
+ Basking beneath the noontide sun,
+ That high and hotly sails.
+
+ Yet all about the breezy shore,
+ Unheedful of the glow,
+ Look how the children of the South
+ Are passing to and fro!
+
+ What noble forms! what fairy place!
+ Cast anchor in this cove,
+ Push out the boat, for in this land
+ A little we must rove!
+
+ We'll wander on through wood and field,
+ We'll sit beneath the vine;
+ We'll drink the limpid cocoa-milk,
+ And pluck the native pine.
+
+ The bread-fruit and cassava-root
+ And many a glowing berry,
+ Shall be our feast; for here, at least,
+ Why should we not be merry?
+
+ WILLIAM HOWITT.
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+NOTE.--The following poem may be given as a recitation by changing the
+title to "Puerto Rico." The words apply to this island as well as to the
+island which is described.
+
+
+ SANTA CRUZ.
+
+ Betwixt old Cancer and the midway line,
+ In happiest climate lies this envied isle:
+ Trees bloom throughout the year, soft breezes blow,
+ And fragrant Flora wears a lasting smile.
+
+ Cool, woodland streams from shaded cliffs descend,
+ The dripping rock no want of moisture knows,
+ Supplied by springs that on the skies depend,
+ That fountain feeding as the current flows.
+
+ Sweet, verdant isle! through thy dark woods I rove
+ And learn the nature of each native tree,
+ The fustic hard; the poisonous manchineel,
+ Which for its fragrant apple pleaseth thee;
+
+ The lowly mangrove, fond of watery soil;
+ The white-barked palm tree, rising high in air;
+ The mastic in the woods you may descry;
+ Tamarind and lofty bay-trees flourish there;
+
+ Sweet orange groves in lonely valleys rise,
+ And drop their fruits unnoticed and unknown;
+ The cooling acid limes in hedges grow,
+ The juicy lemons swell in shades their own.
+
+ Soft, spongy plums on trees wide-spreading hang;
+ Bell apples here, suspended, shade the ground;
+ Plump granadillas and guavas gray,
+ With melons, in each plain and vale abound.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ But chief the glory of these Indian isles
+ Springs from the sweet, uncloying sugar-cane;
+ Hence comes the planter's wealth, hence commerce sends
+ Such floating piles, to traverse half the main.
+
+ Whoe'er thou art that leaves thy native shore,
+ And shall to fair West India climates come;
+ Taste not the enchanting plant,--to taste forbear,
+ If ever thou wouldst reach thy much-loved home.
+
+ --PHILIP FREEMAN.
+
+
+
+HELPFUL BOOKS
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+SONGS IN SEASON
+
+Special songs for each season, and special songs for each noted day in
+each season. There are twenty Songs of Springtime, eight Flower Songs,
+thirteen Bird Songs, twenty-six Songs of Autumn, thirty Winter Songs,
+and twenty Miscellaneous Songs. The general arrangement is by Miss
+George. Words by Lydia Avery Coonley and others. Music by Mary E.
+Conrade, Jessie L. Gaynor, Frank Atkinson, and others. It is a charming
+song book, and will be used in all seasons. Contains 160 pages. Paper,
+50c.; cloth, 75c.
+
+
+STORIES IN SEASON.
+
+Contains stories suitable for reading by the teachers: eighteen about
+Autumn, sixteen on Winter, twenty-one on Spring. Several poems on each
+season of the year, etc. They have been selected from a variety of
+sources and put in usable form by Miss George, and will be welcomed by
+all teachers. Suitable for Primary and Intermediate Grades. 160 pages.
+Paper; price, 50c.
+
+
+CHRISTMAS IN OTHER LANDS.
+
+First-class entertainments for Primary and Intermediate Grades. Contains
+full-page pictures, Boyhood of Christ, Christ Blessing the Little
+Children, Three Madonnas, thirteen full-page pictures showing costumes
+of the children of as many different nations, such as Russia, Italy,
+Germany, etc. Sixteen pages of music, besides a large amount of original
+recitations, suggestions, accounts, and descriptions of how Christmas is
+observed in other countries. Price, 25c.
+
+WASHINGTON AND LINCOLN.
+
+By Miss George and Mrs. Avery Coonley. Wholly original. Mrs. Coonley has
+written in rhyme descriptions of the early homes of these patriots,
+their mothers, their school days, the particular work of each, their
+particularly good qualities, etc., etc. These are excellent for readings
+and recitations. Miss George has given, in several pages of particularly
+good matter, plans for observing the birthdays of each. Songs and
+pictures complete the book. Price, 25c.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Little Journey to Puerto Rico
+by Marian M. George
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LITTLE JOURNEY TO PUERTO RICO ***
+
+This file should be named 8prro10.txt or 8prro10.zip
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