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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, by John Forrest
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Explorations in Australia
+
+Author: John Forrest
+
+Release Date: August 26, 2004 [EBook #9958]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+EXPLORATIONS
+
+IN
+
+AUSTRALIA:
+
+1. EXPLORATIONS IN SEARCH OF DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY.
+
+2. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, AROUND THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.
+
+3. FROM CHAMPION BAY, ACROSS THE DESERT TO THE TELEGRAPH AND TO ADELAIDE.
+
+WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE CONDITION OF
+
+WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+BY JOHN FORREST, F.R.G.S.
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS BY G.F. ANGAS.
+
+
+1875.
+
+
+
+TO HIS EXCELLENCY
+
+FREDERICK ALOYSIUS WELD, ESQ., C.M.G.,
+
+GOVERNOR OF TASMANIA,
+
+LATE GOVERNOR AND COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF of WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+MY DEAR GOVERNOR WELD,
+
+It was during your administration of the Government of Western Australia,
+and chiefly owing to your zeal and support, that most of the work of
+exploration described in this volume was undertaken and carried out. Your
+encouragement revived the love of exploration which had almost died out
+in our colony before you arrived.
+
+With gratitude and pleasure I ask you to accept the dedication of this
+volume as an expression of my appreciation of your kindness and support.
+
+Yours very faithfully,
+
+JOHN FORREST.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
+Attempts to Discover a Route between South and Western Australia.
+Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
+Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
+The Latest Explorations.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
+
+Statements made by the Natives.
+An Expedition Prepared.
+Leader Appointed.
+Official Instructions.
+The Journal.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
+
+A New Exploration suggested.
+Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.
+The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.
+Survey of Port Eucla.
+Official Instructions.
+The Start.
+Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
+The Schooner at Port Eucla.
+Journal of the Expedition.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE AND RETURN TO PERTH.
+
+Departure from Gawler and Arrival at Adelaide.
+Appearance of the Party.
+Public Entrance.
+Complimentary Banquet.
+Grant by the Government of Western Australia.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+THIRD EXPEDITION. FROM THE WEST COAST TO THE TELEGRAPH LINE.
+
+Proposal to undertake a New Expedition.
+Endeavour to Explore the Watershed of the Murchison.
+Expeditions by South Australian Explorers.
+My Journal.
+Fight with the Natives.
+Finding traces of Mr. Gosse's Party.
+The Telegraph Line reached.
+Arrival at Perth Station.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+PUBLIC RECEPTIONS AT ADELAIDE AND PERTH.
+
+Procession and Banquet at Adelaide.
+Arrival in Western Australia.
+Banquet and Ball at Perth.
+Results of Exploration.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+Description of Plants, etc.
+Report on Geological Specimens.
+Note by Editor.
+Governor Weld's Report (1874) on Western Australia.
+Table of Imports and Exports.
+Ditto of Revenue and Expenditure.
+Public Debt.
+Population.
+List of Governors.
+
+
+MAPS.
+
+1. General Map of Australia, showing the Three Journeys.
+2. From Perth to Longitude 123 degrees in Search of Leichardt.
+3. From Perth to Adelaide, around the Great Australian Bight.
+4. From Champion Bay to Adelaide.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+Portrait of John Forrest.
+The Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
+Portrait of Alexander Forrest.
+Arrival at the Great Australian Bight. Fresh Water found.
+Public Welcome at Adelaide.
+Attacked by the Natives at Weld Springs.
+On the March. The Spinifex Desert.
+Reaching the Overland Telegraph Line.
+
+
+
+EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+Previous Expeditions into the Interior.
+Attempts to discover a Route between South and Western Australia.
+Eyre's Disastrous Journey.
+Leichardt, the Lost Explorer.
+The Latest Explorations.
+
+As the history of the principal expeditions into the interior of
+Australia has been narrated by several able writers, I do not propose to
+repeat what has already been so well told. But, to make the narrative of
+my own journeys more intelligible, and to explain the motives for making
+them, it is necessary that I should briefly sketch the expeditions
+undertaken for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of the vast regions
+intervening between Western and the other Australian colonies, and
+determining the possibility of opening up direct overland communication.
+
+With energetic, if at times uncertain, steps the adventurous colonists
+have advanced from the settlements on the eastern and southern coasts of
+the vast island into the interior. Expeditions, led by intrepid
+explorers, have forced their way against all but insurmountable
+difficulties into the hitherto unknown regions which lie to the north and
+west of the eastern colonies. Settlements have been established on the
+shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. Burke and a small party crossed
+Australia from south to north, enduring innumerable hardships, Burke,
+with two of his associates, perishing on the return journey. About the
+same time Stuart crossed farther to the west, reaching the very centre of
+Australia, and telegraphic wires now almost exactly follow his line of
+route, affording communication, by way of Port Darwin, between Adelaide
+and the great telegraphic systems of the world.
+
+ATTEMPTS TO CROSS THE DESERT.
+
+The telegraph line divides Australia into two portions, nearly equal in
+dimensions, but very different in character. To the east are the busy and
+rapidly advancing settlements, fertile plains, extensive ranges of grassy
+downs, broad rivers, abundant vegetation; to the west a great lone land,
+a wilderness interspersed with salt marshes and lakes, barren hills, and
+spinifex deserts. It is the Sahara of the south, but a Sahara with few
+oases of fertility, beyond which is the thin fringe of scattered
+settlements of the colony of Western Australia. To cross this desert, to
+discover routes connecting the western territory with South Australia and
+the line marked by the telegraph, has been the ambition of later
+explorers. Mr. Gregory attempted, from the north, to ascend the Victoria
+River, but only reached the upper edge of the great desert. Dr.
+Leichardt, who had previously travelled from Moreton Bay, on the eastern
+coast, to Port Essington on the northern, attempted to cross from the
+eastern to the western shores, and has not since been heard of. Mr. Eyre
+made a journey, memorable for the misfortunes which attended it, and the
+sufferings he endured, from Adelaide round the head of the great bay, or
+Bight of Southern Australia, to Perth, the capital of Western Australia;
+and much more recently Colonel Egerton Warburton succeeded in crossing
+from the telegraphic line to the western coast across the northern part
+of the great wilderness, nearly touching the farthest point reached by
+Mr. Gregory.
+
+EYRE'S JOURNEY.
+
+It was in the year 1840, only four years after the foundation of South
+Australia, that the first great attempt to discover a route from Adelaide
+to the settlements in Western Australia was made. There then resided in
+South Australia a man of great energy and restless activity, Edward John
+Eyre, whose name was afterwards known throughout the world in connexion
+with the Jamaica outbreak of 1865, and the measures which, as Governor,
+he adopted for repressing it. It was anticipated that a profitable trade
+between the colonies might be carried on if sheep and other live-stock
+could be transferred from one to the other in a mode less expensive than
+was afforded by the sea route between Adelaide and the Swan River. Eyre
+did not believe in the possibility of establishing a practicable route,
+but urged, through the press, the desirability of exploring the vast
+regions to the north, which he anticipated would afford a good and
+profitable field for adventurous enterprise. He offered to lead an
+expedition which should explore the country around the great salt lake
+lying to the north-west of the settled portion of the colony, and to
+which the name of Lake Torrens had been given. Very little was known of
+this lake, and absolutely nothing of the country beyond. The general
+supposition, in which Eyre shared, was that there existed a large space
+of barren land, most probably the bed of a sea which had at one time
+divided the continent into several islands; but it was hoped that no
+insuperable difficulties in the way of crossing it would present
+themselves, and beyond might be a fertile and valuable district, offering
+an almost unbounded field for settlement, and with which permanent
+communications might without great difficulty be established. Some
+geographers were of opinion that an inland sea might be in existence,
+and, if so, of course water communication with the northern half of
+Australia could be effected.
+
+Mr. Eyre's proposition found ready acceptance with the colonists, The
+Government granted 100 pounds--a small sum indeed--but the colony was
+then young, and far from being in flourishing circumstances. Friends lent
+their assistance, enthusiasm was aroused, and in little more than three
+weeks from the time when Eyre proposed the expedition, he started on his
+journey. Five Europeans accompanied him, and two natives, black boys,
+were attached to the party, which was provided with thirteen horses,
+forty sheep, and provisions for three months. Lake Torrens was reached,
+and then the difficulties of the expedition began. Although dignified
+with the name of lake, it proved to be an enormous swamp, without surface
+water, and the mud coated with a thin layer of salt. The party struggled
+to effect a passage, and penetrated into the slime for six miles, until
+they were in imminent danger of sinking. The lake, or rather salt swamp,
+presented a barrier which Eyre considered it impossible to overcome. The
+party turned in a westerly direction, and reached the sea at Port
+Lincoln. Here a little open boat was obtained, and Mr. Scott, Eyre's
+courageous companion, undertook to attempt to reach Adelaide and obtain
+further supplies. This he successfully accomplished, returning in the
+Water Witch with stores and provisions, two more men, and some kangaroo
+dogs. Thus reinforced, the party reached Fowler's Bay in the great Bight
+of South Australia. The map shows that a journey of more than 200 miles
+must have been made before the point was reached. Thence they attempted
+to make their way round the head of the Bight, but were twice baffled by
+want of water. Nothing daunted, Eyre made a third attempt, and succeeded
+in penetrating fifty miles beyond the head of the Bight. But the result
+was achieved only at a cost which the little party could ill sustain.
+Four of the best horses perished, which deprived Eyre of the means of
+carrying provisions, and he had to decide between abandoning the
+expedition altogether or still further reducing the number of his
+companions. Mr. Scott and three men returned to Adelaide, leaving behind
+a man named Baxter, who had long been in Eyre's employ as an overseer or
+factotum; the two natives who had first started with him, and a boy,
+Wylie, who had before been in Eyre's service, and who had been brought
+back in the cutter.
+
+Six months after Eyre had started from Adelaide, he was left with only
+four companions to continue the journey. He had acquired considerable
+experience of the privations to be encountered, but refused to comply
+with the wishes of Colonel Gawler, the Governor, to abandon the
+expedition as hopeless, and return to Adelaide. Indeed, with
+characteristic inflexibility--almost approaching to obstinacy--he
+resolved to attempt the western route along the shore of the Great
+Bight--a journey which, only a few months before, he had himself
+described as impracticable.
+
+The cutter which had been stationed at Fowler Bay, to afford assistance
+if required, departed on the 31st of January, 1841, and Eyre and his
+small party were left to their fate. He had been defeated in the attempt
+to push forward in a northward direction, and he resolved not to return
+without having accomplished something which would justify the confidence
+of the public in his energy and courageous spirit of adventure. If he
+could not reach the north, he would attempt the western route, whatever
+might be the result of his enterprise. After resting to recruit the
+strength of his party, Eyre resolutely set out, on the 25th of February,
+on what proved to be a journey attended by almost unexampled demands upon
+human endurance.
+
+Nine horses, one pony, six sheep, and a provision of flour, tea, and
+sugar for nine weeks, formed the slender stores of the little party,
+which resolutely set forward to track an unknown path to the west.
+Accompanied by one of the blacks, Eyre went on in advance to find water.
+For five days, during which time he travelled about 140 miles, no water
+was obtained, and the distress endured by men and animals was extreme. It
+is not necessary to dwell on every incident of this terrible journey.
+Eyre's descriptions, animated by remembrances of past sufferings, possess
+a graphic vigour which cannot be successfully emulated. Sometimes it was
+found necessary to divide the party, so wretched was the country, and so
+difficult was it to obtain sufficient water in even the most limited
+supply for man and beast. Once Eyre was alone for six days, with only
+three quarts of water, some of which evaporated, and more was spilt. But
+his indomitable determination to accomplish the journey on which he had
+resolved never failed. He knew that at least 600 miles of desert country
+lay between him and the nearest settlement of Western Australia; but even
+that prospect, the certain privations, the probable miserable death, did
+not daunt him in the journey. The horses broke down from thirst and
+fatigue; the pony died; the survivors crawled languidly about, "like
+dogs, looking to their masters only for aid." After a few days, during
+which no water had been obtainable, a dew fell, and Eyre collected a
+little moisture with a sponge, the black boys with pieces of rag. To
+their inexpressible joy, some sand-hills were reached, and, after
+digging, a supply of water was obtained for their refreshment, and for
+six days the party rested by the spot to recruit their strength. The
+overseer and one of the natives then went back forty-seven miles to
+recover the little store of provisions they had been compelled to
+abandon. Two out of the three horses he took with him broke down, and
+with great difficulty he succeeded in rejoining Eyre. At this time the
+party were 650 miles from their destination, with only three weeks'
+provisions, estimated on the most reduced scale. Baxter, the overseer,
+wished to attempt to return; but, Eyre being resolute, the overseer
+loyally determined to stay with him to the last. One horse was killed for
+food; dysentery broke out; the natives deserted them, but came back
+starving and penitent, and were permitted to remain with the white men.
+Then came the tragedy which makes this narrative so conspicuously
+terrible, even in the annals of Australian exploration. Two of the black
+men shot the overseer, Baxter, as he slept, and then ran away, perishing,
+it is supposed, miserably in the desert. Eyre, when some distance from
+the place where poor Baxter rested, looking after the horses, heard the
+report of the gun and hurried back, arriving just in time to receive the
+pathetic look of farewell from the murdered man, who had served him so
+long and so faithfully.
+
+Wylie, the black boy, who had been with Eyre in Adelaide, now alone
+remained, and it is scarcely possible to imagine a more appalling
+situation than that in which Eyre then found himself. The murderers had
+carried away nearly the whole of the scanty stock of provisions, leaving
+only forty pounds of flour, a little tea and sugar, and four gallons of
+water. They had also taken the two available guns, and nearly all the
+ammunition. The body of Baxter was wrapped in a blanket--they could not
+even dig a grave in the barren rock. Left with his sole companion, Eyre
+sadly resumed the march, their steps tracked by the two blacks, who
+probably meditated further murders; but, with only cowardly instincts,
+they dared not approach the intrepid man, who at length outstripped them,
+and they were never heard of more. Still no water was found for 150
+miles; then a slight supply, and the two men struggled on, daily becoming
+weaker, living on horse-flesh, an occasional kangaroo, and the few fish
+that were to be caught--for it must be remembered that at no time were
+they far from the coast.
+
+On the 2nd of June, nearly four months after they had bidden good-bye to
+the cutter at Fowler's Bay, they stood on the cliffs, looking out over
+the ocean, when they saw in the distance two objects which were soon
+recognized as boats, and shortly afterwards, to their unbounded joy, they
+discerned the masts of a vessel on the farther side of a small rocky
+island. Animated by a new life, Eyre pushed on until he reached a point
+whence he succeeded in hailing the ship, and a boat was sent off. The
+vessel proved to be a French whaler, the Mississippi, commanded by an
+Englishman, Captain Rossiter. The worn-out travellers stayed on board for
+a fortnight, experiencing the utmost kindness, and with recruited
+strength and food and clothing, they bade a grateful farewell to the
+captain and crew, and resumed their journey.
+
+For twenty-three days more Eyre and his attendant Wylie pursued their
+way. Rain fell heavily, and the cold was intense; but at length, on the
+27th of July, they reached Albany, in Western Australia, and the journey
+was accomplished.
+
+For more than twelve months Eyre had been engaged forcing his way from
+Adelaide to the Western colony; and the incidents of the journey have
+been dwelt upon because afterwards I passed over the same ground, though
+in the opposite direction, and the records of Eyre's expedition were of
+the greatest service to me, by at least enabling me to guard against a
+repetition of the terrible sufferings he endured.
+
+EXPLORATIONS BY LEICHARDT.
+
+It is further necessary to refer to another of the journeys of
+exploration which preceded my own--that of the unfortunate Leichardt. He
+endeavoured to cross the continent from east to west, starting from
+Moreton Bay, Queensland, hoping to reach the Western Australian
+settlements. In 1844 Leichardt had succeeded in crossing the
+north-western portion of the continent from Moreton Bay to Port
+Essington, and he conceived the gigantic project of reaching Western
+Australia. Towards the end of 1847, accompanied by eight men, with
+provisions estimated at two years' supply, he started on his journey. He
+took with him an enormous number of animals--180 sheep, 270 goats, 40
+bullocks, 15 horses, and 13 mules. They must have greatly encumbered his
+march, and the difficulty of obtaining food necessarily much impeded his
+movements. His original intention was first to steer north, following for
+some distance his previous track, and then, as opportunity offered, to
+strike westward and make clear across the continent. After disastrous
+wanderings for seven months, in the course of which they lost the whole
+of their cattle and sheep, the party returned.
+
+Disappointed, but not discouraged, Leichardt resolved on another attempt
+to achieve the task he had set himself. With great difficulty he obtained
+some funds; organized a small but ill-provided party, and again started
+for the interior. The last ever heard of him was a letter, dated the 3rd
+of April, 1848. He was then in the Fitzroy Downs; he wrote in good
+spirits, hopefully as to his prospects: "Seeing how much I have been
+favoured in my present progress, I am full of hopes that our Almighty
+Protector will allow me to bring my darling scheme to a successful
+termination."
+
+THE FATE OF LEICHARDT.
+
+From that day the fate of Leichardt and his companions has been involved
+in mystery. He was then on the Cogoon River, in Eastern Australia, at
+least 1500 miles from the nearest station on the western side of the
+continent. His last letter gives no clue to the track he intended to
+pursue. If a westerly course had been struck he would have nearly
+traversed the route which subsequently Warburton travelled; but no trace
+of him has ever been discovered. Several expeditions were undertaken to
+ascertain his fate; at various times expectations were aroused by finding
+trees marked L; but Leichardt himself, on previous journeys, had met with
+trees so marked, by whom is unknown. Natives found in the remote interior
+were questioned; they told vague stories of the murder of white men, but
+all investigations resulted in the conclusion that the statements were as
+untrustworthy as those generally made to explorers who question
+uninformed, ignorant natives. The white man's experience is usually that
+a native only partially comprehends the question; he does not understand
+what is wanted, but is anxious to please, as he expects something to eat,
+and he says what he thinks is most likely to be satisfactory.
+
+Leichardt was certainly ill-provided for an expedition of the magnitude
+he contemplated, and it appears to be at the least as probable that he
+succumbed to the hardships he encountered, or was swept away by a flood,
+as that he was murdered by the blacks. Twenty-seven years have elapsed
+since he disappeared in the interior; yet the mystery attending his fate
+has not ceased to excite a desire to know the fate of so daring an
+explorer, and ascertain something definite respecting his course--a
+desire which was one of the principal motives that prompted my first
+expedition into the unknown interior dividing the west from the east.
+
+In 1872, Mr. Giles headed an exploring party from Melbourne, which
+succeeded in making known a vast district hitherto unexplored; but his
+progress was stopped, when he had reached longitude 129 degrees 40
+minutes, by a large salt lake, the limits of which could not be
+ascertained. In the following year Mr. Gosse, at the head of a party
+equipped by the South Australian Government, started from nearly the same
+point of the telegraph line, and at the same period as the Warburton
+expedition, but was compelled to return after eight months' absence,
+having reached longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes. Gosse found the country
+generally poor and destitute of water. He was perhaps unfortunate in
+experiencing an unusually dry season; but his deliberate conclusion was,
+"I do not think a practicable route will ever be found between the lower
+part of Western Australia and the telegraph line."
+
+VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.
+
+At the instance of Baron Von Mueller, and assisted by a small
+subscription from the South Australian Government, Mr. Giles made a
+second attempt to penetrate westward. He reached the 125th degree of east
+longitude, and discovered and traversed four distinct mountain ranges, on
+one of which Mr. Gosse shortly afterwards found his tracks. One of his
+companions, Mr. Gibson, lost his way and perished in the desert, and
+therefore Mr. Giles turned his face eastwards, and, after an absence of
+twelve months, reached Adelaide. He encountered many perils, having been
+nine times attacked by the natives, probably in the attempt to obtain
+water; and on one occasion was severely wounded and nearly captured.
+
+On the 20th March, 1874, Mr. Ross, with his son and another European,
+three Arabs, fourteen horses, and sixteen camels, started from the
+telegraph line, near the Peake station in South Australia. He was
+compelled to return through want of water, although, soon after starting,
+he had greatly reduced the number of his party by sending back three of
+his companions, two of the horses, and twelve of the camels.
+
+Such, in brief, have been the results of the efforts made to cross
+Australia between the telegraph line and the west coast, and ascertain
+the probability of establishing a practicable route. I have referred to
+them to show how persistent has been the desire to achieve the exploit,
+and how little daunted by repeated failures have been Australian
+explorers. I now propose to relate my own experiences--the results of
+three journeys of exploration, conducted by myself. The first was
+undertaken in the hope of discovering some traces of Leichardt; the
+second nearly retraced the route of Eyre; the third was across the desert
+from Western Australia to the telegraph line in South Australia. The
+first journey did not result in obtaining the information sought for; the
+second and third journeys were successfully accomplished.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+FIRST EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF LEICHARDT.
+
+Statements made by the Natives.
+An Expedition prepared.
+Leader appointed.
+Official Instructions.
+The Journal.
+
+Early in 1869, Dr. Von Mueller, of the Melbourne Botanic Gardens, a
+botanist of high attainments, proposed to the Government of Western
+Australia that an expedition should be undertaken from the colony for the
+purpose of ascertaining, if possible, the fate of the lost explorer,
+Leichardt. Reports had reached Perth of natives met with in the eastern
+districts, who had stated that, about twenty years before (a date
+corresponding with that of the last authentic intelligence received from
+Leichardt), a party of white men had been murdered. This tale was
+repeated, but perhaps would not have made much impression if a gentleman,
+Mr. J.H. Monger, when on a trip eastward in search of sheep-runs, had not
+been told by his native guide that he had been to the very spot where the
+murder was committed, and had seen the remains of the white men. His
+story was very circumstantial; he described the spot, which, he said, was
+near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea, and that the
+white men were attacked and killed while making a damper--bread made of
+flour mixed with water, and cooked on hot ashes. So certain was he as to
+the exact locality, that he offered to conduct a party to the place.
+
+This appeared like a trustworthy confirmation of the reports which had
+reached the colony, and created a great impression, so that the
+Government felt it a duty incumbent on them to make an effort to
+ascertain the truth of this statement, and Dr. Von Mueller's offer to
+lead an expedition was accepted.
+
+I was then, as now, an officer of the Survey Department, and employed in
+a distant part of the colony. I was ordered to repair to headquarters, to
+confer with the authorities on the subject, and was offered the
+appointment of second in command and navigator. This was a proposition
+quite in accordance with my tastes, for I had long felt a deep interest
+in the subject of Australian exploration, and ardently desired to take my
+share in the work. I at once arranged the equipment of the expedition,
+but, while so engaged, the mail from Melbourne brought a letter from Dr.
+Von Mueller, to the effect that his other engagements would not permit
+him to take the lead as proposed, and I was appointed to take his place
+in the expedition.
+
+OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., the Surveyor-General, who had himself
+been a great explorer, undertook the preparation of a set of Instructions
+for my guidance; and they so accurately describe the objects of the
+journey, and the best modes of carrying them out, that I transcribe the
+official letter:--
+
+Survey Office, Perth,
+
+13th April, 1869.
+
+Sir,
+
+His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to appoint you to lead an
+expedition into the interior of Western Australia for the purpose of
+searching for the remains of certain white men reported by the natives to
+have been killed by the aborigines some years ago, many miles beyond the
+limits of our settled country, and it being deemed probable that the
+white men referred to formed part of an exploring party under the command
+of Dr. Leichardt, endeavouring to penetrate overland from Victoria to
+this colony several years ago, I have been directed to furnish the
+following instructions for your guidance on this interesting service, and
+for enabling you to carry out the wishes of the Government in connexion
+therewith.
+
+2. Your party will consist of six persons in the whole, well armed, and
+made up of Mr. George Monger as second in command, Mr. Malcolm Hamersley
+as third in command, a farrier blacksmith to be hired at Newcastle, and
+two well-known and reliable natives, Tommy Windich and Jemmy, who have
+already acquired considerable experience under former explorers.
+
+3. An agreement to serve on the expedition in the above capacities has
+been prepared, and should be signed by each European member of the party
+previous to starting.
+
+4. A saddle-horse has been provided for each member of the party,
+together with ---- pack-horses to transport such portions of the outfit
+as cannot be carried by the former. A three-horsed cart will also
+accompany the expedition as far as may be found practicable through the
+unsettled country, and thereby relieve the pack-horses as much as
+possible.
+
+5. All preparations for the journey being now complete, it is desirable
+that you should lose no time in starting, so as to arrive at the
+commencement of the unexplored country by the end of the present month,
+or beginning of the expected winter rains. It has been, however, already
+ascertained from native information that a considerable quantity of rain
+has recently fallen over the regions to be explored, and that no
+impediment may be anticipated from a scarcity of water there.
+
+6. The route to be followed might advantageously commence at Newcastle,
+where some of your party and several of your horses are to be picked up,
+and thence proceed north-easterly to Goomaling, and 100 miles further in
+the same general direction, passing eastward to Mounts Chunbaren and
+Kenneth of Mr. Austin's, to the eastern farthest of that explorer, in 119
+degrees East and 28 3/4 degrees South. Thence the general north-easterly
+route of the expedition must be governed by the information afforded by
+your native guides as to the locality in which they have reported the
+remains of white men are to be found.
+
+7. On arriving at that spot, the greatest care is to be taken to bring
+away all such remains as may be discovered by a diligent search of the
+neighbourhood. By friendly and judicious treatment of the local natives,
+it is also probable that several articles of European manufacture which
+are said to be still in their possession might be bartered from them, and
+serve towards identifying their former owners. The prospect of obtaining
+from the natives, at this remote date, anything like a journal,
+note-book, or map, would indeed be small; but the greatest interest would
+be attached to the smallest scrap of written or printed paper, however
+much defaced, if only covered with legible characters. A more promising
+mode by which the former presence of European explorers on the spot might
+be detected is the marks which are generally made on the trees by
+travellers to record the number or reference to a halting-place, or the
+initials of some of the party. Thus the letter L has in several instances
+been found by searching parties to have been legibly cut on trees in the
+interior of the eastern colonies, and in localities supposed to have been
+visited by the eminent explorer alluded to. It is needless to point out
+that metal articles, such as axes, tomahawks, gun and pistol barrels,
+iron-work of pack-saddles, and such like, would be far more likely to
+have survived through the lapse of years than articles of a more
+perishable nature.
+
+8. After exhausting all conceivable means of obtaining information on the
+spot, and from the nature of surrounding country, an attempt should be
+made to follow back on the track of the unfortunate deceased, which is
+said to have been from the eastward and towards the settled part of this
+colony. Here a close and minute scrutiny of the trees might prove of
+great value in clearing up existing doubts, especially at and about any
+water-holes and springs near which explorers would be likely to bivouac.
+
+9. After completing an exhaustive research and inquiry into this
+interesting and important part of your duties, the remainder of the time
+that may be at your disposal, with reference to your remaining stock of
+provisions, should be employed in exploring the surrounding country, in
+tracing any considerable or smaller stream it may be your good fortune to
+discover, and generally in rendering the service entrusted to your
+guidance as extensively useful and valuable to this colony as
+circumstances may admit.
+
+10. Towards effecting this object, your homeward journey should, if
+possible, be over country not previously traversed by the outward route,
+or by any former explorers, and should be so regulated as to expose your
+party to no unnecessary risk on account of the falling short of supplies.
+
+11. In your intercourse with the aborigines of the interior, many of whom
+will have no previous personal knowledge of the white man, I need
+scarcely commend to you a policy of kindness and forbearance mixed with
+watchfulness and firmness, as their future bearing towards our remote
+colonists may be chiefly moulded by early impressions.
+
+12. To render the expedition as extensively useful as possible, I would
+urge you, in the interests of science, to make and preserve such
+specimens in natural history as may come within the reach of yourself and
+party, especially in the departments of botany, geology, and zoology,
+which may be greatly enriched by productions of country not yet
+traversed.
+
+13. Direct reference to minor objects, and to matters of detail, is
+purposely omitted, in full reliance on your judgment and discretion, and
+on your personal desire to render the expedition as productive as
+possible of benefit to the colony and to science in general.
+
+14. In this spirit I may add that the brief instructions herein given for
+your general guidance are by no means intended to fetter your own
+judgment in carrying out the main object of the expedition in such other
+and different manner as may appear to you likely to lead to beneficial
+results. In the belief that such results will be achieved by the energy
+and perseverance of yourself and of those who have so nobly volunteered
+to join you in the enterprise, and with confident wishes for your
+success, in which H.E. largely participates,
+
+I remain, Sir,
+
+Your obedient Servant,
+
+J.S. ROE, Surveyor-General.
+
+John Forrest, Esquire, Leader of Exploring Expedition to the North-East.
+
+Mr. George Monger (brother of the gentleman who gave the information),
+who accompanied me as second in command, had previously been on an
+expedition to the eastward, and Jemmy Mungaro was the black who said he
+had seen the spot where the remains of the white men were. His
+persistence in the statement encouraged me to hope that I might be the
+first to announce positively the fate of the lost explorer; but I had
+then to learn how little dependence can be placed on the testimony of
+Australian aborigines.
+
+On the 15th of April, 1869, I began the journey. I was well supplied with
+instruments for making observations, so as to ascertain our daily
+position. A knowledge of at least the leading principles of the art of
+navigation is as necessary to the explorer as to the mariner on the
+ocean. Our stock of provisions consisted of 800 pounds of flour, 270
+pounds of pork, 135 pounds of sugar, and 17 pounds of tea; and we each
+took two suits of clothes.
+
+The party were all in good spirits. For myself I was hopeful of success,
+and my white companions shared my feelings. The natives were, as they
+generally are, except when food is scarce, or their anger excited, on the
+best terms with everybody and everything, and Jemmy Mungaro, so far as
+could be judged from his demeanour, might have been the most veracious
+guide who ever led a party of white men through difficulties and dangers
+on an expedition of discovery.
+
+Day by day I noted down the incidents of the journey, and that Journal I
+now submit to the reader.
+
+JOURNAL OF PROCEEDINGS OF AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF THE
+REMAINS OF THE LATE DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY, UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE
+GOVERNMENT OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN FORREST, GOVERNMENT SURVEYOR.
+
+Sir,
+
+In pursuance of instructions received from you, the exploring party under
+my command consisted of the following persons, namely, Mr. George Monger,
+as second in command; Mr. Malcolm Hamersley, as third in command;
+probation prisoner, David Morgan, as shoeing smith, and two natives
+(Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro). The latter native gave Mr. J.H. Monger
+the information respecting the murder of white men in the eastward.
+Reached Newcastle on the 17th and left on Monday, 19th, with a
+three-horse cart and teamster and thirteen horses, making a total of
+sixteen horses. Reached Mombekine, which is about sixteen miles
+East-North-East from Newcastle.
+
+April 20th.
+Continued journey to Goomalling, sixteen miles, which we reached at 1
+p.m., and devoted the remainder of the afternoon to weighing and packing
+rations, etc., for a final start.
+
+21st.
+Leaving Goomalling at 10.30 a.m., we travelled in a northerly direction
+for nine miles, and reached Walyamurra Lake; thence about East-North-East
+for seven miles, we encamped at a well on north side of Kombekine Lake.
+The water was very bad from opossums being drowned in it, and there was
+hardly any feed.
+
+22nd.
+Hearing from a number of natives that there was no water in the direction
+we intended steering, namely, to Mount Churchman, we decided on changing
+our course and proceed there via Waddowring, in latitude 31 degrees south
+and longitude 118 degrees east. Steering about South-South-East for eight
+miles, through dense scrubby thickets, which we had great difficulty in
+getting the cart through, we struck the road from Goomalling to
+Waddowring, which we followed along about east for eight miles, and
+camped at a well called Naaning, with hardly any feed.
+
+23rd.
+Mr. George Roe (who had come from Northam to bid us farewell) and my
+teamster left us this morning to return to Newcastle. Considerable delay
+having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not start till twelve
+o'clock, when we steered East-North-East for eight miles over scrubby
+sand-plains, and camped at a well called Pingeperring, with very little
+feed for our horses.
+
+24th.
+Started at 8.50 a.m. and steered about east for seven miles over scrubby,
+undulating sand-plains, thence North 50 degrees East magnetic for two
+miles, thence North 160 degrees for one mile, and thence about North 80
+degrees East magnetic for five miles over scrubby sand-plains. We camped
+at a spring called Dwartwollaking at 5 p.m. Barometer 29.45; thermometer
+71 degrees.
+
+25th (Sunday).
+Did not travel to-day. Took observations for time, and corrected our
+watches. Found camp to be in south latitude 31 degrees 10 minutes by
+meridian altitude of sun.
+
+26th.
+Travelled in about the direction of North 73 degrees East magnetic for
+twenty-eight miles. We reached Yarraging, the farthest station to the
+eastward, belonging to Messrs. Ward and Adams, where we bivouacked for
+the night.
+
+27th.
+Bought some rations from Ward and Co., making our supply equal to last
+three months on the daily allowance of a pound and a half of flour, half
+a pound of pork, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of tea
+per man. Being unable to take the cart any further, and wishing to have
+the team horses with me, I arranged with Ward and Co. to take it to
+Newcastle for 2 pounds. Packed up and left Yarraging with ten pack and
+six riding horses, and steering North 320 degrees East magnetic for eight
+miles we reached Waddowring springs in south latitude 31 degrees and
+longitude 118 degrees East.
+
+28th.
+Started this morning with Mr. Monger, Tommy Windich, and Dunbatch (a
+native of this locality) in search of water in order to shift the party.
+Travelling about north for eleven miles we found a native well, and by
+digging it out seven feet we obtained sufficient water for ourselves and
+horses. I therefore sent Mr. Monger back with instructions to bring the
+party to this spot, called Cartubing. I then proceeded in a northerly
+direction, and at two miles passed water in granite rocks at a spot
+called Inkanyinning. Shortly afterwards we passed another native well,
+called Yammaling, from which we steered towards a spot called
+Beebynyinning; but, night setting in, our guide lost his way, and we were
+obliged to camp for the night in a thicket without water and very little
+feed.
+
+29th.
+This morning Dunbatch brought us to Beebynyinning, where we obtained a
+little water by digging. After digging a well we returned to Cartubing,
+where we met the party and bivouacked on a patch of green feed.
+
+30th.
+Shifted the party from Cartubing to Beebynyinning, watering our horses on
+the way at Inkanyinning and Yammaling, which was fortunate, as there was
+very little water at Beebynyinning.
+
+May 1st.
+Steering about North-East for eight miles over grassy country, we reached
+and encamped at Danjinning, a small grassy spot, with native well, by
+deepening which about ten feet we obtained a plentiful supply of water.
+Mr. Austin visited Danjinning in 1854, and we could see the tracks of his
+horses distinctly. Barometer 29. Every appearance of rain, which we are
+in much want of.
+
+2nd (Sunday).
+Rested at Danjinning, which I found to be in south latitude 30 degrees 34
+minutes by meridian altitude of the sun. Read Divine Service. Jemmy shot
+six gnows and a wurrong to-day.
+
+3rd.
+Steering in a northerly direction for sixteen miles, we reached
+Yalburnunging, a small grassy spot, with water in a native well, which we
+deepened four feet, and procured a plentiful supply. For the first nine
+miles our route lay over scrubby sand-plains, after which we came into
+dense thickets and stunted gums.
+
+4th.
+Steering towards Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, for about fifteen miles,
+we reached a grassy spot called Billeburring, and found water in a native
+well, probably permanent. At eight miles we passed a water-hole in some
+granite rocks, called Gnaragnunging. Dense acacia and cypress thickets
+most of the way.
+
+5th.
+Steering in a northerly direction for about twelve miles, we reached
+Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, an immense bare granite hill, and camped,
+with plenty of feed and water. At five miles passed a spring called
+Coolee. Country very dense and scrubby; no feed in any of the thickets.
+From the summit of Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger, or Mount
+Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory, bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East
+magnetic. This evening a party of nine natives (friends of our native
+Jemmy) joined us, who state that a long time ago a party of white men and
+horses died at a place called Bouincabbajibimar, also that a gun and a
+number of other articles are there, and volunteer to accompany us to the
+spot.
+
+6th.
+Left Mount Churchman in company with the nine natives, and travelled
+about North-North-West for ten miles to a small water-hole called
+Woodgine, thence in a northerly direction to a branch of Lake Moore,
+which we crossed without difficulty, and, following along its north shore
+for three miles, we bivouacked at a spring close to the lake called
+Cundierring, with splendid feed around the granite rocks.
+
+7th.
+Steering in a northerly direction for eleven miles, through dense
+thickets of acacia and cypress, we reached some granite rocks with water
+on them, called Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears that the
+information received from the natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's
+horses that died from poison at Poison Rock. They now state they are only
+horses' bones, and not men's, as first stated.
+
+8th.
+Travelling in the direction of North 30 degrees East for about ten miles,
+we reached some granite rocks, with a water-hole in them, called
+Coorbedar. Passed over very rough, low, quartz hills, covered with acacia
+thickets, etc. At four miles passed a water-hole called Yeergolling; at
+seven miles a small one called Gnurra; and another at eight miles called
+Munnarra.
+
+9th (Sunday).
+Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found camp to be in south latitude 29
+degrees 24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of the sun and
+Regulus, and in longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East. From a quartz hill
+half a mile South-West from Coorbedar, Mount Singleton bore North 268
+degrees 15 minutes East. The supply of water from the rock having been
+used, I went, in company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot one mile and a
+half South-South-West from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where we dug a
+well and procured a little water, to which I intend shifting to-morrow,
+as I propose staying in this vicinity for two days, so as to give me time
+to visit Warne, the large river spoken of by Jemmy.
+
+10th.
+Started this morning in company with Tommy Windich and a native boy (one
+of the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) to examine the locality
+called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees East magnetic for about seven
+miles, we came to a grassy flat about half a mile wide, with a stream-bed
+trending south running through it. The natives state it to be dry in
+summer, but at present there is abundance of water, and in wet seasons
+the flat must be almost all under water. After following the flat about
+seven miles we returned towards camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.
+
+11th.
+Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and found all well. Rain, which we
+were much in want of, fell lightly most of the day. Barometer 28.50;
+thermometer 61 degrees.
+
+12th.
+Steered this morning about North 38 degrees East magnetic for eight
+miles, and camped by a shallow lake of fresh water--the bivouac of the
+10th. Here we met a party of twenty-five natives (friends of my native
+Jemmy and the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) who had a grand
+corroboree in honour of the expedition. They stated that at
+Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains of a number of horses, but no
+men's bones or guns, and pointed in the direction of Poison Rock, where
+Mr. Austin lost nine horses. Being now satisfied that the natives were
+alluding to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I resolved to steer to
+the eastward, towards a spot called by the native, Jemmy, Noondie, where
+he states he heard the remains of white men were.
+
+13th.
+Bidding farewell to all the natives, we steered in a south-easterly
+direction for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough hollow called
+Durkying; cypress and acacia thickets the whole way.
+
+14th.
+One of our horses having strayed, we did not start till 10.40 a.m., when
+we steered in about a South-East direction for eight miles, and camped on
+an elevated grassy spot, called Mingan, with water in the granite rocks,
+probably permanent. The thickets were a little less dense than usual, but
+without any grass, except at the spots mentioned. By meridian altitudes
+of Mars and Regulus, we were in south latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes 30
+seconds, and in longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes east.
+
+15th.
+Steering North-East for four miles, and North-North-East for seven miles,
+over sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and cypress, we bivouacked on an
+elevated grassy spot, called Earroo, with water in granite rocks.
+
+16th (Sunday).
+Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good feed. By meridian altitudes of
+Regulus and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south latitude 29 degrees 23
+minutes 3 seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes East; weather
+very cloudy; barometer 29.
+
+17th.
+Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60 degrees East for about five
+miles; thence about North 50 degrees East for eight miles; thence North
+85 degrees East for five miles, to a small grassy spot called Croobenyer,
+with water in granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of cypress, acacia,
+etc., most of the way. Found camp to be in south latitude 29 degrees 12
+minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus and Aquilae (Altair);
+barometer 28.70.
+
+18th.
+Steering North 70 degrees East for two miles and a half, we saw a low
+hill called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62 degrees 30 minutes East
+magnetic, distant about seventeen miles, for which we steered, and camped
+to the north of it, on a fine patch of grass with a little rain-water on
+some granite rocks. At eleven miles crossed a branch of a dry salt lake,
+which appears to run far to the eastward.
+
+19th.
+Steering about North 85 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles,
+attempted to cross the lake we had been leaving a little to the
+southward, making for a spot supposed by us to be the opposite shore, but
+on arriving at which was found to be an island. As we had great
+difficulty in reaching it, having to carry all the loads the last 200
+yards, our horses saving themselves with difficulty, and, being late, I
+resolved to leave the loads and take the horses to another island, where
+there was a little feed, on reaching which we bivouacked without water,
+all being very tired.
+
+20th.
+On examining this immense lake I found that it was impossible to get the
+horses and loads across it; I was therefore compelled to retrace my steps
+to where we first entered it, which the horses did with great difficulty
+without their loads. I was very fortunate in finding water and feed about
+three miles North-North-West, to which we took the horses and bivouacked,
+leaving on the island all the loads, which we shall have to carry at
+least half way, three quarters of a mile, the route being too boggy for
+the horses.
+
+HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.
+
+21st.
+Went over to the lake in company with Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and
+Tommy Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in getting all the loads to
+the mainland, carrying them about three quarters of a mile up to our
+knees in mud, from which point the lake became a little firmer, and the
+horses carried the loads out. I cannot speak too highly of the manner in
+which my companions assisted me on this trying occasion. Having been
+obliged to work barefooted in the mud, the soles of Mr. Hamersley's feet
+were in a very bad state, and he was hardly able to walk for a fortnight.
+Seeing a native fire several miles to the southward, I intend sending
+Tommy Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe to-morrow, in order that I
+may question them respecting the reported death of white men to the
+eastward.
+
+22nd.
+Went over to the lake with all the horses, and brought the loads to the
+camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search of the natives. After returning
+to camp, overhauled all the pack bags, and dried and re-packed them,
+ready for a fresh start on Monday morning. Also washed the mud off the
+horses, who appear to be doing well, and fast recovering from the effects
+of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy returned this evening, having seen some
+natives after dark, but were unable to get near them.
+
+23rd (Sunday).
+Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on foot to follow the tracks of the
+natives seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of overtaking them, as they
+appeared to be making off at a great rate, and were twelve hours in
+advance of us, we returned, after following the tracks for five miles
+across the lake. The camp was reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked
+about fifteen miles. This spot, which I named Retreat Rock, I found to be
+in south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51 seconds by meridian altitudes
+of Regulus and Mars, and in about longitude 119 degrees 16 minutes east.
+
+24th.
+Some of the horses having strayed, we were not able to start till 10.40
+a.m., when we steered in about East-North-East direction for sixteen
+miles, and camped on a piece of rising ground, with very little water.
+From this bivouac, a very remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling, which
+I named Mount Elain, bore North 162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic,
+distant about twenty miles; and two conspicuous hills, close together,
+called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105 degrees East magnetic. Dense
+thickets, acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with spinifex, most of the
+way.
+
+DISCOVERY OF LAKE BARLEE.
+
+25th.
+Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five miles, and came to some granite
+rocks with water, where we gave drink to our thirsty horses. Leaving the
+party to follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to look for water, which we
+found in a rough stream-bed, and brought the party to it. This afternoon
+went with Jemmy to the summit of Yeadie, and took a round of angles. The
+local attraction was so great on this hill that the prismatic compass was
+useless; luckily I had my pocket sextant with me, by which I obtained the
+included angles. From the summit of Yeadie the view was very extensive.
+The great lake that we had already followed for forty miles ran as far as
+the eye could reach to the east and south, studded with numerous islands;
+low ranges of hills in every direction. This immense lake I named Lake
+Barlee, after the Colonial Secretary of Western Australia. By meridian
+altitudes of Mars and Regulus, camp was in south latitude, 28 degrees 58
+minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude about 119 degrees 39 minutes East,
+Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East magnetic, distant about two miles.
+
+26th.
+Moving in about a northerly direction for nine miles, we turned to the
+eastward, rounded a branch of Lake Barlee, towards some loose granite
+rocks, where we encamped, but could not find water. Sent Jemmy over to
+another rock one mile southward, where he found a fine permanent
+water-hole, to which we took the horses after dark. Distance travelled
+to-day about eighteen miles. Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great
+treat to us all.
+
+27th.
+Shifted the party over to the water found last night, one mile distant,
+and camped. Found camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and
+in longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes east. Marked a small tree with
+the letter F. close to the waterhole.
+
+28th.
+Some of the horses having strayed, we did not start till 9.30 a.m., when
+I went in advance of the party, in company with Jemmy, to look for water.
+After following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it turned to the southward.
+Then scouring the country in every direction for water without success,
+we reached the tracks of the party (who had passed on), and, following
+them over plains of spinifex and stunted gums, found them encamped with
+plenty of water, which they had luckily discovered at sundown. Distance
+travelled eighteen miles about true east. By meridian altitude of Bootes
+(Arcturus), this bivouac is in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34
+seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees 9 minutes east.
+
+DISAPPOINTED EXPEDITIONS.
+
+29th.
+Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy to explore the country eastward,
+leaving the party to take off the horses' shoes for their relief.
+Travelling in an easterly direction for eight miles over sandy soil and
+spinifex, we reached the summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy to be
+Noondie, which I named Mount Alexander, from which we saw another range
+about eleven miles distant, bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East
+magnetic, to which we proceeded, and found water in some granite rocks.
+None of these hills, however, agreed with the description given by Jemmy;
+and the expectations were at an end that he would succeed in showing us
+the spot where the remains of white men were. Returning to camp, seven
+miles, bivouacked on a grassy flat, without water or food.
+
+30th. (Sunday).
+Started at dawn, with the saddles and rugs on our backs, in search of the
+horses, and, after travelling a mile and a half on their tracks, found
+them at a small water-hole passed by us yesterday. Saddled up and reached
+camp at eleven o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday morning the dogs
+caught an emu, off which we made a first-rate breakfast, not having had
+anything to eat since the previous morning. Barometer 28.44.
+
+A DIFFICULTY WITH THE NATIVES.
+
+31st.
+Started this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy in search of
+natives, leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with instructions to proceed
+eastward about twenty-two miles, to where I found water on the 29th.
+After starting the party we steered in a South-South-East direction
+towards a high range of hills, which I named Mount Bivou, about twelve
+miles distant. To the westward of the range we found a fine water-hole in
+some granite rocks, where we rested an hour to allow the horses to feed.
+Continuing in about the same direction for five miles, we ascended a
+rough range to have a view of the country. We descried a large fire to
+the westward seven miles, towards which we proceeded, in the hope of
+finding natives. When we were within half a mile we could hear hallooing
+and shouting; and it was very evident there was a great muster (certainly
+not less than 100) of natives, corrobberying, making a dreadful noise,
+the dogs joining in chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told him to go and
+speak to them, which he started to do in very good spirits. He soon
+beckoned us to follow, and asked us to keep close behind him, as the
+natives were what he called like "sheep flock." He appeared very nervous,
+trembling from head to foot. After reassuring him, we tied up our horses,
+and advanced through the thicket towards them. When getting in sight of
+them, Jemmy commenced cooeying, and was answered by the natives; after
+which he advanced and showed himself. As soon as they saw him, the
+bloodthirsty villains rushed at him, and threw three dowaks, which he
+luckily dodged; when fortunately one of the natives recognized him
+(having seen Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy), and called to the
+others not to harm him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the horses, Mr.
+Monger and I thought it was time to retire, as we saw the mistake we had
+made in leaving the horses. The thickets being dense, we had difficulty
+in finding the horses quickly. On reaching them Mr. Monger found he had
+dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been recognized, I feel sure we
+should have had bloodshed, and might probably have lost our lives.
+Mounting the horses, we advanced towards the natives, and had a short
+talk with one of them who came to speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of
+eight natives, with spears stripped, and dowaks in readiness, should we
+prove hostile. Although I assured them we were friends, and asked them to
+put down their spears, they took no notice of what was said. One native
+told us not to sleep here, but to go away and not return, or the natives
+would kill and eat us, after which he turned away as if he did not wish
+to have any more words with us. It being now dark, we took his advice,
+and retreated towards where we had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a
+thicket without water, and tied up our horses, keeping watch all night.
+
+June 1st.
+At daybreak saddled up our tired and hungry horses, and proceeded to
+where we had dinner yesterday. After giving our horses two hours' grazing
+and having had breakfast, started back towards the natives' camp, as I
+wished to question them respecting the reported death of white men in
+this neighbourhood. When we approached the natives' bivouac, we saw where
+they had been following up our tracks in every direction, and Jemmy found
+the place where they had picked up Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was
+away looking for the revolver, Mr. Monger saw two natives following up
+our trail, and within fifty yards of us. We both wheeled round and had
+our guns in readiness, but soon perceived they were the same as were
+friendly last night, and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At my request
+they went and brought us Mr. Monger's revolver, which they stated they
+had been warming near the fire! Fortunately for them, it did not go off.
+On being questioned by Jemmy, they stated that the place Noondie (where
+Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the white men were) was two days'
+journey North-West from this spot; that there were the remains of horses,
+but not of men, and they volunteered to show us the spot. Being now 1
+p.m., and having to meet the party to-night at a place about twenty-three
+miles distant, we started at once, leaving the natives, who did not wish
+to move to-day, but who apparently sincerely promised to come to our camp
+to-morrow. Reached camp at the spot arranged an hour after dark, and
+found all well.
+
+BIVOUACKING.
+
+2nd.
+Rested our horses at the place, which I called the Two-spring Bivouac,
+there being two small springs here. Re-stuffed with grass all the
+pack-saddles, as some of the horses were getting sore backs. By meridian
+altitude of sun found the camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 51
+minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I
+was very much annoyed at the natives not putting in appearance as
+promised.
+
+3rd.
+No sign of the natives this morning. I decided to steer in the direction
+pointed out by them, and travelling about North 306 degrees East magnetic
+for fifteen miles, we found water in some granite rocks, with very good
+feed around, cypress and acacia thickets, light red loamy soil, destitute
+of grass.
+
+4th.
+Steering in about West-North-West direction for sixteen miles, the first
+six of which were studded with granite rocks, good feed around them,
+after which through poor sandy country, covered with spinifex. We
+bivouacked in a thicket without water or feed, and tied up our horses.
+Saw a natives' fire, but was unable to get near it. Barometer 28.52;
+fine.
+
+5th.
+After travelling in a northerly direction for seven miles without finding
+water, and without seeing any hill answering the description given by
+Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen miles, and camped at a fine spring
+near some granite rocks, with splendid feed around them. This is the first
+good spring since leaving the settled districts. At 8 p.m., barometer
+28.44; thermometer 72 degrees.
+
+6th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp, which I called Depot Spring, and found to be in south
+latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34 seconds by meridian altitude of sun.
+Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer 57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer
+28.30; thermometer 77 degrees.
+
+7th.
+Started this morning, in company with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore
+the country to the northward, where we had seen a peaked hill. Went in
+that direction about thirty miles, the first twenty of which were studded
+with granite rocks, with fine feed around them. At twenty-seven miles
+crossed a salt marsh, about one mile wide, and, continuing three miles
+farther, reached the peaked hill, which was composed of granite, capped
+with immense blocks, giving it a very remarkable appearance. Bivouacked
+on North-West side of hill, at a small water-hole.
+
+8th.
+This morning, after saddling up, we ascended the conical hill (which I
+named Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles from it, after which we
+struck North 81 degrees East magnetic to a granite range about eight
+miles distant, where we found two fine water-holes, and rested an hour.
+Thence in about a South-South-East direction for twelve miles, we
+bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. The day was very fine,
+and the rainy appearance cleared off, much to our grief.
+
+9th.
+At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells, and anticipating they had made
+off in search of water, we put our saddles, guns, and rugs on our backs,
+and started on their tracks. After following the tracks for nine miles we
+came to a water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards we succeeded in
+overtaking the horses in a grassy flat, about thirteen miles
+South-South-East from our last night's bivouac. The last few miles our
+troublesome load became very awkward and heavy. One of the horses had
+broken his hobbles. Continuing in about the same course for six miles, we
+struck about West-South-West for ten miles, and reached camp, where we
+found all well, at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.
+
+AN OLD NATIVE.
+
+10th.
+Started again this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to
+explore the country to the eastward, leaving Mr. Hamersley to shift the
+party to our bivouac of the 2nd instant, about twenty-four miles
+South-East from here. After travelling East-North-East for six miles, we
+came upon a very old native at a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not
+understand what he said, but he thought that he meant that there were a
+number of armed natives about. He was very frightened, howled the whole
+time we stayed, and was apparently in his dotage, hardly able to walk.
+Continuing our journey, we camped at a small water-hole in some granite
+rocks, with good feed around them, about sixteen miles East-North-East
+from Depot Spring.
+
+11th.
+Started at sunrise, and steered about East-North-East over
+lightly-grassed country; and on our way came upon a middle-aged native
+with two small children. We were within twenty yards of him before he saw
+us. He appeared very frightened, and trembled from head to foot. Jemmy
+could understand this native a little, and ascertained from him that he
+had never seen or heard anything about white men or horses being killed
+or having died in this vicinity. Did not know any place named Noondie;
+but pointed to water a little way eastward. Jemmy then asked him all
+manner of questions, but to no purpose, as he stated he knew nothing
+about the business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever heard of any horses
+being eaten; he answered No, but that the natives had just eaten his
+brother! I have no doubt parents have great difficulty in saving their
+children from these inhuman wretches. Then the old man tried to cry, and
+ended by saying he had two women at his hut, a little westward. After
+travelling ten miles from our last night's bivouac, and not finding
+water, we struck North 204 degrees East magnetic for about twenty miles,
+through scrubby thickets, without feed, and arrived at the bivouac of the
+2nd, where the party will meet us to-morrow. Reached the water at the Two
+Springs half an hour after dark.
+
+12th.
+Explored the country around camp in search of a better place for feed,
+but could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and party joined us at 4 p.m.,
+all well. Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a great treat, after
+living so long on salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold wind from the
+east all day.
+
+13th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to the southward to-morrow.
+Barometer 28.76.
+
+14th.
+Started this morning, in company with Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the
+country to the southward. Travelled in a south-westerly direction for
+twenty-five miles, and camped at the spot where we had the encounter with
+the natives on May 31. We found they had left, and there was no water on
+the rocks. Luckily our horses had water six miles back.
+
+MOUNT IDA.
+
+15th.
+Saddled up at daybreak, and steered about South-East towards a high range
+of hills about ten miles distant. I named it Mount Ida, and from the
+summit I took a round of angles with my pocket sextant. On all the hills
+in this neighbourhood the local attraction is so great that the prismatic
+compass is useless. Found a fine spring of water on south side of Mount
+Ida, in an almost inaccessible spot. After giving the horses two hours'
+rest we continued our journey North 154 degrees East magnetic for eight
+miles to a granite range, where, after a diligent search, I found two
+water-holes, and bivouacked, with good feed around the rocks.
+
+16th.
+Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to some trap ranges, North 124 degrees
+East, about seven miles distant, from which I could see an immense lake
+running as far as the eye could reach to the eastward, and westerly and
+northerly, most probably joining Lake Barlee. Not being able to proceed
+farther southward, on account of the lake, I steered in a northerly
+direction for twenty miles, but, discovering neither feed nor water,
+bivouacked in a thicket, and tied up our horses.
+
+17th.
+At dawn, found that my horse Sugar, after breaking his bridle, had made
+off towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing my saddle on Jemmy's horse,
+we followed on the track for six miles, when we came to a few granite
+rocks, with a little water on them, from rain that had fallen during the
+night. At this place Morgan was left with the horses and our guns, while
+Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's tracks, taking only a revolver with us.
+After travelling on the tracks for two miles we overtook him, and with a
+little trouble managed to catch him. On reaching the spot where we had
+left Morgan, we found him with the three double-barrelled guns on full
+cock, together with his revolver, in readiness. On being asked what was
+the matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was ready to give the natives
+what he called "a warm attachment." After having breakfast we steered
+North-North-West for about twenty miles, and reached camp at 5 p.m., and
+found all well. Rained a little during the day.
+
+EXPLORING EASTWARD.
+
+18th.
+Having thus made an exhaustive search in the neighbourhood where Jemmy
+expected to find the remains of the white men, by travelling over nearly
+the whole of the country between latitude 28 degrees and 29 degrees 30
+minutes south, and longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I determined to
+make the most of the little time at my disposal, and carry out the
+instruction that I was to attempt to proceed as far eastward as possible.
+Accordingly, after collecting the horses, steered about East-North-East
+for nine miles, to a low quartz range, over tolerably grassy country, not
+very dense. From this range I saw some bare granite rocks bearing about
+North 120 degrees East magnetic. For these we steered, and luckily, after
+travelling six miles over a plain, which in severe winters must be nearly
+all under water, found a fine pool in a clay-pan, and bivouacked. There
+was a little rain during the night.
+
+19th.
+The horses having strayed back on our tracks, we did not start till 12
+o'clock, when the journey was continued towards the granite range seen
+yesterday, about ten miles distant. We camped on west side of North, with
+plenty of water from the recent rain on the granite rocks, but with very
+little feed. At five miles crossed a dry stream-bed, eighteen yards wide,
+sandy bottom; thickets most of the way, but not very dense.
+
+20th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock kangaroos to-day. Took a round of
+angles from a bare granite hill, North 50 degrees East magnetic, about
+one mile from camp, which I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57
+minutes by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and a Pegasi (Markab);
+and in longitude about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a high hill
+bearing North 81 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five
+miles distant, which I named Mount Lenora; and another bearing North 67
+degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named
+Mount George. Intend proceeding to Mount Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small
+tree (ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the letter F at our bivouac.
+
+21st.
+Steering towards Mount Lenora over some tolerably grassy country, we
+reached it at sundown, and, not finding any water, camped without it,
+with very good feed. In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes by meridian
+altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about
+121 degrees 20 minutes East.
+
+22nd.
+After making every search in the vicinity of the bivouac for water, and
+the country ahead appearing very unpromising, I decided to return ten
+miles on our tracks, where we found a fine pool of water in a brook, and
+camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a flying trip in search of water.
+
+A NATIVE UP A TREE.
+
+23rd.
+Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, to explore the
+country to the eastward for water, etc. After travelling three miles
+towards Mount Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing North-East about three
+miles, to which we proceeded, and surprised a middle-aged native. Upon
+seeing us he ran off shouting, and decamped with a number of his
+companions, who were at a little distance. The horse I was
+riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from Northam--evidently well
+understood running down a native, and between us we soon overtook our
+black friend and brought him to bay. We could not make him understand
+anything we said; but, after looking at us a moment, and seeing no chance
+of escape, he dropped his two dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a
+small tree about twelve feet high. After securing the dowaks, I tried
+every means to tempt him to come down; fired my revolver twice, and
+showed him the effect it had on the tree. The report had the effect also
+of frightening all the natives that were about, who no doubt made off at
+a great rate. I began to climb up after him, but he pelted me with
+sticks, and was more like a wild beast than a man. After discovering we
+did not like to be hit, he became bolder and threw more sticks at us, and
+one hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting him, when I called on him to
+desist. I then offered him a piece of damper, showing him it was good by
+eating some myself and giving some to Tommy. He would not look at it, and
+when I threw it close to him he dashed it away as if it was poison. The
+only way of getting him down from the tree was force, and, after
+considering a moment, I decided to leave him where he was. We accordingly
+laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade him farewell in as kindly a
+manner as possible. Continuing our course, passing Mount Lenora, we
+steered North 81 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a table hill, which
+I ascended and took a round of angles. This hill I named Mount Malcolm,
+after my friend and companion, Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak
+bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty miles,
+towards which we proceeded, and at six miles came upon a small gully, in
+which we found a little water, and bivouacked.
+
+24th.
+Started early this morning, and steered East-North-East for six miles to
+some low stony ranges, lightly grassed; thence North 61 degrees 30
+minutes East magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I named Mount Flora,
+distant about nine miles from the stony ranges, ascending which, I
+obtained a round of bearings and angles. Saw a high range bearing about
+North 106 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, apparently about sixteen
+miles distant, towards which we travelled till after dark, searching for
+feed and water on our way without success, and there bivouacked and tied
+up our horses.
+
+MOUNT MARGARET.
+
+25th.
+Saddled at dawn, and proceeded to the range, which bore North 93 degrees
+30 minutes East magnetic, about five miles distant, on reaching which I
+ascended the highest peak, and named it Mount Margaret. Took a round of
+angles and bearings. From the summit of Mount Margaret the view was very
+extensive. There was a large dry salt lake to the southward, as far as
+the eye could reach, while to the east and north-east there were low trap
+ranges, lightly grassed. A high table hill bore North 73 degrees East
+magnetic.
+
+Being now about sixty miles from camp, and not having had any water since
+yesterday morning, I decided to return. Steering about west for eight
+miles, we struck a brook trending south-east, in which we found a small
+quantity of water in a clay-pan. After resting an hour, in order to make
+a damper and give the horses a little of the feed, which only grew
+sparingly on the banks of the brook, we continued our journey towards
+camp. Passing Mount Flora, we camped about eight miles farther onwards,
+near a small patch of feed, without water, about a mile north of our
+outward track.
+
+26th.
+Started at dawn, and reached our bivouac of the 23rd. There obtained just
+sufficient water for ourselves and the horses. Continuing, we found a
+fine pool of rain-water in a brook a mile and a half west of Mount
+Malcolm, and, reaching camp an hour after dark, found all well. On our
+way Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo, which we carried to camp.
+
+27th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. Found it to be in south latitude 28 degrees 55 minutes by
+meridian altitudes of sun, Aquilae (Altair), and Lyra, and in longitude
+about 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Although we had great difficulty in
+procuring water in our last trip, I was reluctant to return without
+making another effort, especially as, from the appearance of the country
+east of the farthest point, I had hope of a change, and therefore
+concluded to shift the party to the water found yesterday near Mount
+Malcolm, and make another attempt to proceed farther east.
+
+28th.
+Steering about North 81 degrees East magnetic, over lightly-grassed
+country, thinly wooded for sixteen miles, we camped a mile and a half
+west of Mount Malcolm, in south latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes 19 seconds
+by meridian altitude of Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121
+degrees 27 minutes East.
+
+29th.
+Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, with seven days'
+provisions, leaving instructions for Mr. Monger to shift the party back
+to our last camp, where the feed was much better, in latitude 28 degrees
+55 minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Travelled
+about east for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret, our farthest point
+last trip. We camped in a thicket, without water, on a small patch of
+feed.
+
+30th.
+Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a
+little water at the spot where we found water on our former trip.
+Continuing, we came to a fine pool of water in a brook, and rested an
+hour, Mount Margaret being north-east about two miles and a half. Hardly
+any feed near the water. Resuming, we passed Mount Margaret and started
+towards the table hill seen previously, bearing North 73 degrees East
+magnetic, apparently about eighteen miles distant, over a series of dry
+salt marshes, with sandy country and spinifex intervening. After
+travelling eight miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of
+feed. With the pocket sextant I found this spot to be in south latitude
+about 28 degrees 50 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 11 minutes
+East.
+
+MOUNT WELD.
+
+July 1st.
+After journeying towards the table hill seen yesterday for six miles,
+crossed a large brook heading south-west, in which we found a small pool
+of rain-water, and rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming for about six
+miles, reached the table hill, which I ascended and took a round of
+angles. I have since named this hill Mount Weld, being the farthest hill
+seen eastward by us. Continuing about North 77 degrees East magnetic for
+fifteen miles, through dense thickets--no grass except spinifex--we
+bivouacked, without water or feed, and then tied up our horses. I found
+this spot to be in south latitude 28 degrees 41 minutes by meridian
+altitude of Bootes (Arcturus), and in longitude about 122 degrees 37
+minutes East.
+
+2nd.
+Started at dawn, and steered about east, searching on our way for water,
+which our horses and ourselves were beginning to want much. At six miles
+we found a small hole in some rocks, apparently empty, but on sounding
+with a stick I found it to contain a little water. The mouth of the hole
+being too small to admit a pannican, and having used my hat with very
+little success, I at last thought of my gum-bucket, with which we
+procured about two quarts of something between mud and water, which,
+after straining through my pocket-handkerchief, we pronounced first-rate.
+Continuing for six miles over clear, open sand-plains, with spinifex and
+large white gums--the only large trees and clear country seen since
+leaving the settled districts--we climbed up a white gum to have a view
+of the country eastward. Some rough sandstone cliffs bore North 127
+degrees East magnetic, about six miles distant. The country eastward was
+almost level, with sandstone cliffs here and there, apparently thickly
+wooded with white gums, and other trees; spinifex everywhere, but no
+prospects of water. More to the north, a narrow line of samphire flats
+appeared, with cypress and stunted gums on its edges--all barren and
+desolate--so much so, indeed, that for the last twenty-five miles there
+has been no grass seen at all save spinifex. After taking a few bearings
+from the top of the tree (which I marked with the letter F on the south
+side), which is in south latitude about 28 degrees 41 minutes, and
+longitude about 122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return to our last
+watering place, nearly thirty-one miles distant, as we were now over 100
+miles from camp, and the horses had been without water or feed since
+yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a little to the north of the
+outward track, we travelled nearly two hours after dark, and camped
+without water or feed, and tied up the horses.
+
+WINDICH BROOK.
+
+3rd.
+Saddled up early, and steered westerly towards our last watering-place,
+about fourteen miles distant; but, after travelling nearly seven miles,
+came to a small pool of water (at the head of the brook where we found
+water on the 1st), and rested two hours to allow our horses to feed, as
+they had neither eaten nor drunk for the last forty-eight hours. Resuming
+our journey along the brook (which I named Windich Brook, after my
+companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles, in which we found several pools
+of water, but destitute of feed, camped without water about two miles
+east of our bivouac of the 30th June.
+
+4th.
+Travelling about West-South-West for twelve miles, we reached the pool of
+water found on our outward track on the 30th June, two miles and a half
+South-West from Mount Margaret. There we rested an hour. Resuming, we
+travelled nearly along our outward track for eighteen miles, and camped
+without water on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two wurrongs to-day.
+
+5th.
+Started at daybreak, and, continuing nearly along our outward track for
+twenty-five miles, we reached the water close to Mount Malcolm, where we
+left the party, they having shifted, as instructed, seventeen miles
+farther back. There we rested an hour; but, having finished our
+provisions, we roasted two wurrongs and made a first-rate dinner. Tommy
+also shot an emu that came to water, and which we carried to camp.
+Reached there at 6 p.m. and found all well, having been absent seven
+days, every night being without water, during which time we travelled
+over 200 miles.
+
+6th.
+Weighed all the rations, and found we had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds
+bacon, 28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal to thirty-two days'
+allowance of flour, ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar, and twenty-one
+days' tea on a full ration. Thereupon concluded to return to Perth as
+quickly as possible, and reduce the allowance of tea and sugar to last
+thirty days--bacon to be done without. By that time I hope to reach
+Clarke's homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend to return by Mount
+Kenneth, Nanjajetty, Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence to Damparwar
+and Clarke's homestead, thus fixing a few points that will be useful to
+the Survey Office.
+
+THE RETURN JOURNEY.
+
+7th.
+At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86, thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the
+return, and followed along our outward tracks for sixteen miles. Camped
+on east side of granite range, in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes,
+and east longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.
+
+8th.
+Travelling nearly along our eastward track, and passing our bivouac of
+the 19th June, we reached the Two Springs bivouac.
+
+9th.
+Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached our bivouac of 30th May--129
+degrees 9 minutes East.
+
+10th.
+Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our way I ascended a very high range,
+which I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine round of angles--Mount
+Alexander, Mount Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and Yeadie and Bulgar
+being visible.
+
+11th (Sunday).
+Plotted up our track.
+
+12th.
+Travelled for twenty-five miles and camped on a splendid patch of feed,
+with a little water on some granite rocks about two miles west of our
+bivouac of the 24th. This I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57
+minutes 48 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi
+(Markab), and in longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes east; Mount
+Elvire bearing North 154 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty-one
+miles.
+
+13th.
+Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Monger, with instructions to proceed
+to Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I started with Mr. Hamersley
+and Jemmy to attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order to explore the
+country on its south side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to try and find
+natives, Jemmy being acquainted with these tribes. Steering North 154
+degrees East magnetic for seven miles, we came to the lake, and, entering
+it, succeeded in reaching the southern shore after twelve miles of heavy
+walking, sinking over our boots every step--the horses having great
+difficulty in getting through. When we reached the southern shore, it was
+nearly sundown. Determined to push on, and reached the range, where we
+bivouacked on a patch of feed and a little water; Mount Elvire bearing
+North 87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile distant; and Yeadie and
+Bulgar North 8 degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly during the day.
+Being wet through from the splashings of the horses while crossing the
+lake, and from it raining throughout the night, and not having any
+covering, our situation was not the most pleasant. Jemmy informed me
+there was a fine permanent spring close to Mount Elvire; but we did not
+go to see it.
+
+14th.
+This morning, after ascending a range to have a view of the country,
+steered North 288 degrees East magnetic, and then, travelling six miles,
+came to a branch of Lake Barlee running far to the southward, which we
+attempted to cross; but after travelling a mile and a half, the horses
+went down to their girths in the bog, and we had great difficulty in
+getting them to return, which, however, we ultimately succeeded in doing,
+and made another attempt, at a place where a series of islands appeared,
+to cross it, and, passing over without much difficulty, reached the
+opposite shore at sundown, where we bivouacked on a splendid grassy ride,
+with abundance of water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire bearing North 108
+degrees East magnetic, and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees East
+magnetic.
+
+15th.
+Having finished our rations last night, we started at dawn, and steered
+towards Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the party. After travelling
+five miles, we came to that part of Lake Barlee which we attempted to
+cross, without success, on May 19th (on our outward track); but, leading
+our horses, we at last succeeded in crossing, and reached camp, all very
+tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all well. The party were encamped one
+mile north of our former bivouac, at some granite rocks with two fine
+water-holes.
+
+16th.
+Considerable delay having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not
+start till ten o'clock, when we travelled nearly along our outward
+track--passing Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of which Mount Elvire
+bore North 111 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about thirty-five miles
+distant--for about twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some granite rocks
+with a little feed around them, which I found to be in south latitude 29
+degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus)
+and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes East.
+
+17th.
+Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering about west for twenty-five miles
+through dense thickets without feed, we camped without water on a small
+miserable patch, in south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 13 seconds by
+meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small tree with F. 1869.
+Being now in friendly country, I decided to give up keeping watch, which
+had been done regularly for the last two months.
+
+18th (Sunday).
+After starting the party, went, in company with Tommy Windich, to take
+bearings from a low hill, bearing North 289 degrees, distant about eight
+miles, after which we struck in the direction in which we expected to
+find the party; but as, for some reason or other, they had not passed by,
+I anticipated they must have met with good feed and water, and camped, it
+being Sunday. However this may be, we kept bearing more and more to the
+southward, in hope of crossing the track, till after dark, when we
+reached the Warne Flats, and bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent more
+than a few days, we had neither rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a
+turkey, which we roasted in the ashes, and made a very good meal. The
+night was bitterly cold, and, not having any rug, I slept with a fire on
+each side of me, and, considering the circumstances, slept fairly.
+
+19th.
+Made a first-rate breakfast off the remainder of the turkey, and then
+started in search of the party, making back towards where we had left
+them, keeping well to the southward. After spending nearly the whole of
+the day, and knocking up the horses, we found the tracks of the party
+nearly where we had left them yesterday morning, and, following along
+them for nine miles, found where they had bivouacked last night; and, it
+being now two hours after dark, we camped also, having between us for
+supper an opossum, which Tommy had luckily caught during the day. The
+night was again very cold, and we had hardly anything to eat, which made
+matters still worse.
+
+20th.
+Starting on the tracks at daybreak, followed them for about thirteen
+miles, and then we found the party encamped on the east side of a large
+bare granite rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth bearing North 24 degrees
+East magnetic, about fifteen miles distant. From a cliff, about one mile
+west of the camp, took a splendid round of angles, Mount Kenneth, Mount
+Singleton, and several other known points being visible. By meridian
+altitudes of sun, a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae Borealis,
+camp was in south latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and
+longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes east.
+
+21st.
+At seven a.m., barometer 29.10; thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15
+a.m. Steered about west for fifteen miles, over country studded here and
+there with granite rocks, with good feed around them--in some places rock
+poison--and then camped at a spring called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189
+degrees from a bare granite hill, three quarters of a mile distant, from
+which hill Mount Singleton bore North 237 degrees East magnetic, by
+meridian altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E Bootes. Pullagooroo is in
+south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds. Finished our bacon this
+morning, and for the future will only have damper and tea.
+
+22nd.
+Steering a little to the north of west, through dense thickets without
+grass, we bivouacked at a very grassy spot called Bunnaroo, from which
+Mount Singleton bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By meridian
+altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae Borealis, camp is
+in south latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude about 117
+degrees 35 minutes east.
+
+MOUNT SINGLETON.
+
+23rd.
+After starting the party with instructions to proceed straight to Mount
+Singleton, distant about thirty-two miles, I went, in company with Jemmy,
+to the summit of a high trap range in order to take a round of angles,
+and fix Nanjajetty, which was visible. While on our way to join the
+party, saw the tracks of two men and two horses, with two natives
+walking, and soon after found where they had bivouacked a few days
+before. Was much surprised at this discovery: suppose it to be squatters
+looking for country. Continuing, we found the tracks of our party, and
+overtook them, and encamped at a fine permanent spring--Mount Singleton
+bearing North 146 degrees East magnetic about three miles and a half
+distant. Reached the party at seven o'clock. There was a partial eclipse
+of the moon this evening.
+
+24th.
+There being splendid green feed around Mount Singleton, and as the horses
+were tired, I concluded to give them a day's rest. Went, in company with
+Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount Singleton, which took us an
+hour to ascend; but, on reaching it, we were well repaid for the trouble
+by the very extensive view and the many points to which I could take
+bearings. Far as the eye could reach to the East and South-East were
+visible Lake Moore, Mount Churchman; to the north, conspicuous high trap
+ranges appeared; while to the west, within a radius of six miles, hills
+covered with flowers gave the country a pretty appearance. Further to the
+west a dry salt lake and a few trap hills appeared. Reached the camp at 2
+p.m. On our way shot three rock kangaroos.
+
+25th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp near Mount Singleton, which I found to be in south
+latitude 29 degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by meridian altitude of sun,
+and longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.
+
+26th.
+Some delay having occurred in collecting the horses, did not start till 9
+a.m., when we steered a little to the north of west towards Damparwar.
+For the first seven miles over rough trap hills lightly grassed, when we
+entered samphire and saltbush flats for four miles. Crossing a large
+marsh at a point where it was only 100 yards wide, and continuing through
+thickets, we camped at a spot with very little feed and no water, in
+south latitude 29 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount
+Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20 minutes East magnetic, distant about
+twenty miles. Here we met two natives, whom we had seen on our outward
+track at the Warne Corroboree. They were of course friendly, and slept at
+our camp; they had a great many dulgates and opossums, which they carried
+in a net bag, made out of the inner bark of the ordnance-tree, which
+makes a splendid strong cord. They informed us that a native had come
+from the eastward with intelligence relating to the encounter we had with
+the large tribe on May 31, adding that we had all been killed, and that
+all the natives in this vicinity had cried very much on hearing the news.
+This is another specimen of the narrations of natives, with whom a tale
+never loses anything by being carried.
+
+27th.
+Steering a little to the north of west for eighteen miles, we reached
+Damparwar Springs, a clear grassy spot of about 300 acres, on west side
+of a low granite hill. The spring was dry, but by digging a few feet
+obtained abundant supply. From the appearance of the country there has
+hardly been any rain in this neighbourhood for many months. Took a round
+of angles from a trap hill about two miles distant, Mount Singleton and
+many other points being visible. Met a party of friendly natives here. By
+meridian altitudes of a Bootes, a Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega),
+Damparwar Spring is in south latitude 29 degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds,
+and longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes East.
+
+28th.
+Steering in a southerly direction, and following along the western margin
+of a salt lake--most of the way over samphire flats, with thickets
+intervening, denser than usual--we encamped on a small grassy spot, with
+plenty of water in granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo, situated close to
+the west side of the lake, which I named Lake Monger. The native Jemmy,
+in company with some of his friends, stayed behind to-day in order to
+catch opossums, and did not join us this evening. By meridian altitudes
+of E Bootes, a Coronae Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae (Altair),
+Murrunggnulgo is in south latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds.
+Damparwar bearing about north magnetic.
+
+29th.
+Moving a little to the west of south for twenty miles, through dense
+thickets, by far the worst we have ever encountered, and destitute of
+feed, we reached Bera Bera, a grassy spot with a dry well, where water
+might be procured. Continuing North 238 degrees East for about five
+miles, we reached and camped at some granite rocks, with a fine well of
+water called Wandanno, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees
+57 minutes 14 seconds by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae
+(Altair). From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore North 50 degrees 30
+minutes East magnetic about fifty miles distant. Jemmy did not put in an
+appearance to-day, but sent on a native to say he would join us in a day
+or two.
+
+30th.
+Travelling about North 212 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, over
+samphire flats, with thickets intervening, we reached a fine grassy spot,
+with water in granite rocks, called Gnookadunging. Continuing about south
+for two and a half miles, passed another small grassy spot called
+Ginbinning; thence in about the general direction of North 210 degrees
+East magnetic. For about eleven and a half miles, over an immense
+sand-plain, running as far as the eye could reach to the North-West and
+South-East, we camped in the centre of it at a spring called Manginie, a
+sheep station belonging to Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the day
+Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in, and we had great difficulty in
+getting him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I did not reach until an
+hour after dark. The night was cloudy, and I was unable to get any
+observations, but luckily at daybreak obtained meridian altitudes of
+Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in South latitude 30 degrees 21
+minutes.
+
+31st.
+Steering about South-South-West for thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo
+Springs--a fine grassy spot in winter--where we camped, the horses being
+very tired. For the first seven miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence to
+Cooroo, over grassy country, with spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy
+shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which was very acceptable, having had
+only damper and tea for several days past.
+
+August 1st (Sunday).
+Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy putting our ragged clothes in as
+good repair as possible. By meridian altitudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32
+degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service. Jemmy has not yet overtaken us,
+so I conclude he has changed his mind, and does not intend following us.
+We are now about nine miles from Clarke's homestead, which bears about
+South-South-East.
+
+2nd.
+Travelling about South-South-East for nine miles over grassy country,
+with York gums, etc., we reached the hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke,
+where we were very kindly received, and stayed a short time to hear the
+news. Resuming for eighteen miles along the road to Newcastle, we passed
+Mr. Donald Macpherson's, where I obtained some rations, and pushed on six
+miles farther, and bivouacked one mile south of Badgy-Badgy, with very
+short feed for our horses.
+
+3rd.
+Travelling along the road towards Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we
+camped one mile past Byen, and about sixteen miles from Newcastle.
+
+4th.
+Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and had just time to report the safe
+return of the expedition before the mail left.
+
+5th.
+After handing over all the horses provided by the different settlers to
+their respective owners, and bidding farewell to Mr. George Monger (who
+intends proceeding to York), I left Newcastle in company with Mr. M.
+Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving Morgan and remainder of equipment to
+follow with the cart which had been brought to Newcastle by Ward and C.
+Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.
+
+6th.
+Made an early start; reached Guildford at twelve o'clock, where we rested
+an hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4 p.m., and reported personally
+the results of the expedition, having been absent 113 days, in which time
+I travelled by computation over 2000 miles.
+
+I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the main object of the
+expedition, which was the discovery of the remains of the late Dr.
+Leichardt and party.
+
+THE NATIVES' STORIES.
+
+In the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was informed by the native
+Weilbarrin, that two white men and their native companions had been
+killed by the aborigines, thirteen days' journey to the northward, when
+he was at a spot called Koolanobbing, which is in south latitude about 30
+degrees 53 minutes, and longitude about 119 degrees 14 minutes east. Mr.
+Austin lost eleven horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and two were left
+nearly dead), which is in latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23 seconds
+south, and longitude about 118 degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130
+miles from Koolanobbing, and in the direction pointed to by the natives.
+I therefore imagine it to be very probable that the whole story
+originated from the horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison Rock, as I am
+convinced the natives will say anything they imagine will please. Again,
+the account given us at Mount Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very
+straightforward and truthful. It was very similar to that related to Mr.
+Roe; but, on questioning the natives, they at last stated there were
+neither men nor guns left, only horses' remains, and pointed towards
+Poison Rock. Further, the native who gave all the information to Mr.
+Monger was one of our party. His tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also
+appeared very straightforward and truthful, that white men had been
+killed by the natives twenty years ago; that he had seen the spot, which
+was at a spring near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea
+as seen from Rottnest, eleven days' journey from Ningham or Mount
+Singleton, in a fine country. The white men were rushed upon while making
+a damper, and clubbed and speared. He had often seen an axe which formed
+part of the plunder. All this appears feasible and truthful enough in
+print; but the question is, Of what value did I find it? Upon telling
+Jemmy what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he said he never told him that
+he had seen things himself, but that he had heard it from a native who
+had seen them, thus contradicting the whole he had formerly stated to Mr.
+Monger. Moreover, the fine country he described we never saw, what a
+native calls good country being where he can get a drink of water and a
+wurrong; and if there is an acre of grassy land they describe it as a
+very extensive grassy country! This I have generally found the case. As a
+specimen of the untruthfulness of these natives, I may quote that my
+native Jemmy, who was a first-rate fellow in every other respect, stated
+to Mr. Monger and myself at York, that there was a large river like that
+called the Avon at York, to the eastward, knowing at the time he would be
+found out to be telling a falsehood. He even told Mr. George Monger,
+before leaving Newcastle, to buy hooks, in order to catch the fish that
+were in the river, and concluded by stating that we would have great
+difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a great distance north and south.
+Almost every evening I questioned and cross-questioned him respecting
+this river; still he adhered to what he first stated! It may well be
+imagined how disappointed we were on reaching the spot to find only a
+small brook running into a salt marsh, with water in winter, but dry in
+summer.
+
+With reference to the country travelled over, I am of opinion that it is
+worthless as a pastoral or agricultural district; and as to minerals I am
+not sufficiently conversant with the science to offer an opinion, except
+that I should think it was worth while sending geologists to examine it
+thoroughly.
+
+CONDUCT OF THE PARTY.
+
+It now becomes my most pleasing duty to record my entire satisfaction
+with the manner in which all the members of the expedition exerted
+themselves in the performance of their respective duties. To Mr. George
+Monger and Mr. Malcolm Hamersley I am indebted for their co-operation and
+advice on all occasions. I am also deeply indebted to Mr. Hamersley for
+collecting and preserving all the botanical specimens that came within
+his reach, as well as the great trouble and care taken with the store
+department, placed under his immediate charge. To probation prisoner
+David Morgan my best thanks are due as the shoeing smith, as well as
+acting cook for the party the whole time. Of Tommy Windich (native) I
+cannot speak too highly, being very useful in collecting the horses, as
+well as a first-class huntsman, and really invaluable as a water finder.
+Accompanying me on many trying occasions, suffering often from want of
+water, he showed energy and determination deserving of the highest
+praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a first-class bushman, and invaluable as a
+water finder. He was in many ways useful, and very obedient. His great
+failing was that he exaggerated--no tale ever losing anything in his
+charge. Nevertheless, I have many things to thank him for, and therefore
+he deserves praise.
+
+In conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you for your kindness and advice,
+which has greatly supported me in this arduous undertaking. I much regret
+that an expedition which was so efficiently equipped, and on which I was
+left so free to act, has not resulted in more direct benefit to the
+colony, to satisfy many who are not capable of appreciating the
+importance of such explorations.
+
+I have, Sir, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition.
+
+The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General.
+
+So far as the mystery on which the fate of Leichardt is involved was
+concerned, my expedition was barren of results; but the additional
+knowledge gained of the character of the country between the settled
+districts of Western Australia and the 123rd meridian of east longitude,
+well repaid me, and those of the party, for the exertions we had
+undergone.
+
+REWARDS.
+
+Shortly after my return I received an official communication from Mr.
+Barlee, the Colonial Secretary at Perth, announcing that his Excellency
+the Governor, with a view to mark his sense of the value of my services
+as leader of the expedition, had sanctioned the payment to me of a
+gratuity of 50 pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley each received 25
+pounds; Morgan, the probation prisoner, who had done good service in the
+expedition, especially in looking after the horses, was promised a
+remission of a portion of his sentence. Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro,
+the natives, had each a single-barrel gun, with his name
+inscribed--presents which they highly valued.
+
+So ended the first of my expeditions; and a very short time elapsed
+before I was called upon to undertake a longer, more hazardous, and more
+important journey.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
+
+A new Exploration suggested.
+Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.
+The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.
+Survey of Port Eucla.
+Official Instructions.
+The Start.
+Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
+The Schooner at Port Eucla.
+Journal of the Expedition.
+
+Immediately on my return to Perth a new expedition was suggested by Dr.
+Von Mueller, whose anxiety for the discovery of Leichardt was rather
+increased than abated by the disappointment experienced. He proposed that
+I should start from the upper waters of the Murchison River with a light
+party and provisions for six months, and endeavour to reach Carpentaria.
+He thought, not only would such an expedition almost certainly find some
+traces of the lost explorer, but probably would make geographical
+discoveries of the highest interest and importance. In a paper in the
+Colonial Monthly he argued that:
+
+"While those who searched after traces of the lost party did not solve
+the primary objects of their mission, their labours have not been without
+importance to geographical science. The course of one traveller connected
+the southern interior of Queensland in a direct route with the vast
+pastoral depressions about Lake Torrens; the researches of another
+explorer, bent on ascertaining Leichardt's fate, unfolded to us a tract
+of table country, now already occupied by herds and flocks, not less in
+length than that of Sweden and Italy...We should bear fully in mind how a
+line in Leichardt's intended direction would at once enable the squatters
+of North-East Australia to drive their surplus of flocks and herds easily
+across to the well-watered, hilly and grassy country within close
+proximity to the harbour of the north-west coast."
+
+I should have been well satisfied to undertake an expedition in the
+proposed direction, starting from the head of the Murchison, and trying
+to connect my route with that of Mr. A. Gregory's down Sturt Creek; but
+the difficulty of obtaining funds and lack of support caused the project
+to be set aside or at least delayed. Mr. Weld, then Governor of Western
+Australia, who always heartily supported explorations, was in favour of
+an attempt to reach Adelaide by way of the south coast, and offered me
+the command of an expedition in that direction.
+
+I readily accepted the offer, and at once busied myself with the
+necessary preparations, but was far from being insensible to the
+difficulties of the undertaking. Of the route nothing was known except
+the disastrous experience of Mr. Eyre in 1840 and 1841. His remarkable
+narrative--interesting to all concerned in the history of explorations or
+in the records of energy, courage, and perseverance under the most
+discouraging circumstances--might have acted as a warning to future
+explorers against endeavouring to follow in his track. The fearful
+privations he endured, his narrow escape from the most terrible of all
+forms of death, were certainly not encouraging; but his experience might
+often be of service to others, pointing out dangers to be avoided, and
+suggesting methods of overcoming difficulties. At any rate, I was not
+deterred from the attempt to trace once more the coast of the Great
+Bight, and to reach the sister colony by that route. Eyre had not
+discovered any rivers, although it was possible that he might have
+crossed the sand-bars of rivers in the night. The difficulties he
+laboured under in his almost solitary journey, and the sufferings he
+endured, might have rendered him unable to make observations and
+discoveries more practicable to a better equipped and stronger party,
+while the deficiency of water on the route appeared to offer the greatest
+impediment. We were not, however, deterred from the attempt, and on the
+30th of March, 1870, we started from Perth on a journey which all knew to
+be dangerous, but which we were sanguine enough to believe might produce
+considerable results.
+
+That we were not disappointed the result will prove. Indeed, the
+difficulties were much fewer than we had been prepared to encounter; and
+in five months from the date of departure from Perth we arrived safely at
+Adelaide, completing a journey which Mr. Eyre had been more than twelve
+months in accomplishing.
+
+THE EXPLORING PARTY.
+
+My party was thus composed: I was leader; the second in command was my
+brother, Alexander Forrest, a surveyor; H. McLarty, a police constable;
+and W. Osborne, a farrier and shoeing smith, these with Tommy Windich,
+the native who had served me so faithfully on the previous expedition,
+and another native, Billy Noongale, an intelligent young fellow,
+accompanied us.
+
+Before I enter upon the details of my journey it may be useful to state
+as briefly as possible the efforts made to obtain a better acquaintance
+with the vast territory popularly known as No Man's Land, which had been
+traversed by Eyre, and afterwards to summarize the little knowledge which
+had been obtained.
+
+In 1860 Major Warburton--who afterwards, in 1873 and 1874, succeeded in
+crossing the northern part of the great inland desert, after enduring
+great privations--contrived to reach eighty-five miles beyond the head of
+the Bight, and made several journeys from the coast in a north and
+north-westerly direction for a distance of about sixty miles. Traces of
+Eyre's expedition were then visible. The holes he had dug in search of
+water twenty years before were still there, and the records of his
+journey were of great value as guiding Warburton's movements. His
+experience of the nature of the country amply confirmed that of the
+previous explorer. He found the district to the north to be a dreary
+waste, destitute of food and water. Rain seldom fell, and, when it did,
+was immediately absorbed by the arid soil. Bustards and moles were the
+only living creatures. To the north-west there was a little grass, but
+the tract showing verdure was very small in extent, and beyond it was
+again the scorched, barren, inhospitable desert.
+
+Two years afterwards other explorations were attempted, and especially
+should be noted Captain Delessier's. He was disposed to think more
+favourably of the nature of the country. The enterprise of squatters
+seeking for "fresh fields and pastures new," to whom square miles
+represent less than acres to graziers and sheep farmers in England--is
+not easily daunted. They made a few settlements; but the scanty pasturage
+and the difficulty of obtaining water, by sinking wells, in some
+instances to the depth of over 200 feet, have been great drawbacks.
+
+DISCOVERY OF PORT EUCLA.
+
+It might naturally be inquired why no attempts were made to reach the
+coast of the Great Bight by sea? Why so much suffering has been endured
+when a well-equipped vessel might have landed explorers at various points
+and been ready to afford them assistance? In his explorations to the
+north of Western Australia, Mr. F. Gregory had a convenient base of
+operations in the Dolphin, a barque which remained on the coast. It might
+seem that similar aid could have been afforded to Warburton and others
+who attempted to trace the south-coast line. But for hundreds of miles
+along the shores of the Bight no vessel could reach the shore or lie
+safely at anchor. Long ranges of perpendicular cliffs, from 300 to 400
+feet high, presented a barrier effectually forbidding approach by sea.
+About 1867, however, an excellent harbour was discovered about 260 miles
+to the west of Fowler's Bay. The South Australian Government at once
+undertook a survey of this harbour, and Captain Douglas, President of the
+Marine Board, the officer entrusted with this duty, reported in the most
+favourable terms. The roadstead, named Port Eucla, was found to afford
+excellent natural protection for shipping. There was, however, the less
+encouraging circumstance that it was situated a few miles to the west of
+the boundary of the colony, and consequently Western, and not South,
+Australia was entitled to the benefit of the discovery.
+
+It was evident that Port Eucla, which Captain Douglas carefully surveyed
+by taking soundings and observing bearings, was the key to the
+exploration of this vast portion of the continent. But, notwithstanding
+the propositions made to the Government of Western Australia by the York
+Agricultural Society for equipping an exploring party, nothing was done
+until the beginning of 1870, when the Governor determined on equipping an
+overland party intended to make its way, keeping as far inland as
+possible, to Eucla, where assistance and supplies would await them. It
+was this expedition which I was selected to command. The following copy
+of official instructions will show the object of the exploration and the
+preparations made to insure a fair prospect of a successful result:--
+
+OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+Colonial Secretary's Office, Perth,
+
+March 29th, 1870.
+
+SIR,
+
+His Excellency the Governor, confiding in your experience, ability, and
+discretion, has been pleased to entrust to your charge and leadership an
+overland expedition, which has been organized for the purpose of
+exploring the country between the settled portions of this colony and the
+Port of Eucla, situated near its east boundary.
+
+Your party will consist of the following six persons, well armed, and
+provisioned for two months, namely, yourself as leader; Mr. Alexander
+Forrest, your brother, as second in command; H. McLarty, a
+police-constable, third in command; W.H. Osborne, farrier, etc.; and two
+reliable natives, one of whom will be your former well-tried companion,
+Windich. An agreement to serve under you on the expedition in the above
+capacities will be signed by each European named previous to starting.
+
+Ample stores and supply of provisions have been prepared for your use,
+and a suitable coasting vessel (the schooner Adur) is engaged, under an
+experienced commander, to convey them where required, and to be at your
+disposal in aiding the operations of the expedition.
+
+It is desirable the party should start from Perth as soon as all
+arrangements have been completed, and take the most convenient route to
+Esperance Bay, where men and horses can be recruited, further supplies
+from the coaster laid in, and a fresh start made for Eucla so soon as the
+first winter rains may lead to a prospect of the country being
+sufficiently watered.
+
+About 120 miles to the eastward of the station of Messrs. Dempster, at
+the west end of Esperance Bay, lies Israelite Bay, under some islands, in
+front of which there is said to be anchorage. That being the nearest
+known anchorage westward of Eucla, it appears to offer a convenient spot
+whence fresh supplies might be drawn from your coaster with which to
+prosecute the remaining 300 miles; but this arrangement as to an
+intermediate place of call will be liable to modification, after
+consulting on the spot with the Messrs. Dempster, who are well acquainted
+with that part of the coast.
+
+Between Israelite Bay and Eucla the route should be as far from the coast
+as circumstances and the nature of the country will admit.
+
+At Eucla all the remaining provisions and stores that may be required
+should be landed, and the coaster despatched on her return to Fremantle
+with a report of your proceedings.
+
+After recruiting at Eucla, five or six days might be employed with
+advantage in exploring the country to the northward, care being taken to
+place in security, by burying in casks or otherwise, such provisions,
+etc., as might not be necessary for the northern excursion.
+
+On returning to Eucla from the north, the expedition is to make a final
+start overland for Adelaide, by such route as you may deem advisable. The
+Surveyor-General is of opinion that via Port Lincoln, and thence to
+Adelaide by steamer, would be the preferable route; but of this you will
+be the best judge, after receiving information from the various
+out-stations you will pass. Before leaving South Australia, you will
+dispose of your horses and such remaining stores and provisions as may
+not be further required, retaining all instruments and such pack-saddles
+and other articles of outfit as you may deem worth preserving for future
+service.
+
+On arriving at Adelaide you will report yourself to his Excellency the
+Governor, and avail yourself of the first favourable opportunity of
+returning to Perth with your party, and with the remains of your outfit,
+either by any vessel about to proceed direct to the Swan, or by the
+earliest mail-steamer to King George's Sound. On application to his
+Excellency, Sir James Fergusson, you will be furnished with such means as
+may be necessary to defray your expenses from South to Western Australia,
+as well as during your stay in the former colony.
+
+I am to impress on you the advisability of endeavouring, by every means
+in your power, to cultivate friendly relations with the aboriginal
+inhabitants of the country you are about to traverse.
+
+Such are briefly the general instructions by which it is intended you
+should be governed in conducting the expedition entrusted to your care
+and guidance; and I may add that the fullest confidence is placed in your
+energy, zeal, and discretion, for bringing it to a successful issue. The
+main objects of the undertaking are alone referred to; and, although a
+mode of accomplishing them is briefly alluded to, it is by no means
+intended to fetter your judgment in adopting such measures of minor
+details as may appear to you necessary for effectually carrying them out.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant,
+
+FRED. P. BARLEE.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM PERTH.
+
+The Adur, chartered by the Government, was a vessel of thirty tons, owned
+by Mr. Gabriel Adams. It gives me much pleasure to express my thanks to
+him and to Mr. Waugh, the master, and to the crew of the vessel, for the
+important services they performed, and the zeal they exhibited in
+rendering me assistance, not only on board the vessel, but also on shore.
+
+We started from Perth on the afternoon of Wednesday, the 30th of March,
+1870. His Excellency the Governor accompanied us for about three miles on
+the Albany Road. We had fifteen horses, and provisions sufficient for the
+journey to Esperance Bay, a distance of about 450 miles, where, it was
+arranged, further supplies would await us. By the 5th of April we had
+reached Kojonup, travelling in a north-easterly direction, and then
+rested four days, leaving for Jerramungup on the 9th, and reaching it on
+the 13th. Our first day's journey brought us to Mr. Graham's homestead,
+near which we bivouacked; thence our route lay in an easterly direction,
+at first through good grassy country with jam and white gum trees and
+shea oaks, by way of Etticup, Martinup (where we bivouacked on the night
+of the 10th), and Nigalup, beyond which were scrubby sand-plains
+extending southwards towards the Stirling range. On the following night
+we camped near some granite rocks. The next day's journey extended to
+Koorarkup, where we again rested. Our rate of travel was from twenty to
+twenty-five miles a day, and already we began to experience inconvenience
+from want of water. A little stream, the Pallinup, was salt, and there
+were salt pools on the route between our last camping-place and
+Koorarkup, where we were now resting.
+
+Around Jerramungup was rich grassy country, but beyond it we passed over
+scrubby undulating plains for about sixteen miles, camping, on the night
+of the 14th, on a small branch of the Fitzgerald River, near some granite
+rocks called Dwertup. At this spot there was water, but very little feed
+for the horses. My observations showed that we were in latitude 33
+degrees 1 minute 15 seconds south.
+
+From this point the progress will be best narrated by extracts from my
+Diary. A reference to the map will show that as yet we had not reached
+the track of Eyre, who had followed the coast to King George's Sound; but
+by the 16th of April we had reached his line of route.
+
+April 15th.
+Travelled to the north of east, and at seven miles crossed the main
+branch of the Fitzgerald River; granite rocks in bed, and saltwater
+pools. After travelling over stony undulating country for twenty-one
+miles, camped on a small patch of feed, with water in some granite rocks,
+called Coombedup.
+
+16th.
+Continuing easterly over rough stony country, crossing several brooks
+with salt pools of water in them, we reached the Phillips River, and,
+after a good deal of searching, found some fresh water in a small brook
+near the river. The immense pools in the Phillips were as salt as sea
+water. Distance travelled about twenty-five miles.
+
+VIEW OF THE SEA.
+
+17th (Sunday).
+Did not travel. Went this morning, in company with McLarty, to the summit
+of a high hill in Eyre's Range, called Annie's Peak, which we reached
+after one and a half hour's hard climbing. It is the steepest hill I ever
+attempted to ascend. We had a splendid view of the sea--the first since
+leaving Perth--and I also obtained a fine round of angles and bearings.
+On our return, found Billy had shot five ducks, and Tommy soon returned
+with an emu. In the evening it very suddenly came on to thunder and
+lighten, and soon rained in torrents, and, as we were rather unprepared,
+we did not pass a very pleasant night.
+
+18th.
+Just as we had collected the horses it commenced to rain in torrents; got
+under way, however, by 9 o'clock, steering in about an easterly direction
+over sandy, scrubby country, and at ten miles crossed a brook with salt
+pools in it, and afterwards reached a large river of salt water, which we
+followed about two miles, and then camped at a spring called Jerdacuttup.
+It rained in torrents the whole day, blowing hard from the southward, so
+that all were drenched when we halted.
+
+19th.
+After travelling about twenty-three miles, in an easterly direction, we
+reached a salt lake, called Parriup, and camped. Procured water on some
+granite rocks near camp.
+
+20th.
+Travelling nine miles, reached Mr. Campbell Taylor's station on the
+Oldfield River, and rested for the remainder of the day.
+
+21st.
+After starting the party, with instructions to reach and camp on north
+side of Stokes' Inlet, distant about twenty miles, I went with Mr. Taylor
+to the mouth of the Oldfield River, in order to take bearings to East
+Mount Barren, but was disappointed, the weather being very hazy.
+Accompanied by a native of Mr. Taylor's, followed on the tracks, but,
+night setting in, we made the best of our way to where I expected to find
+the party, but could see nothing of them, and were obliged to camp for
+the night without food, and, what was worse, without a fire, having
+neither matches nor powder with us. Luckily I had a rug, by which means I
+fared much better than my companion, who had only a small kangaroo skin.
+As it blew and rained in torrents most of the night, our position can be
+better imagined than described.
+
+22nd.
+Early this morning we were looking for the tracks of the party, but
+without success; finally we returned eight miles to the Margaret River,
+and, after a good deal of searching, found the tracks almost obliterated
+by the rain, and followed along them. Upon nearing Stokes' Inlet we met
+Tommy Windich looking for us, he having seen the tracks and last night's
+bivouac. He informed me that they had camped about four miles westward of
+the inlet, and we had therefore passed them in the dark last night. Made
+all haste to overtake the party; succeeded in doing so, after a great
+deal of trouble, one hour and a half after dark. Encamped on north side
+of Barker's Inlet, at a small well of water called Booeynup. We did
+justice to the supper, as we had not had anything to eat for thirty-two
+hours.
+
+23rd.
+For the first nine miles over scrubby sand-plains, kangaroos very
+numerous, when we came into and skirted a chain of salt lakes and
+marshes. Continuing over generally low country, well grassed, for five
+miles, we reached and camped at the old homestead of the Messrs.
+Dempster, called Mainbenup.
+
+ESPERANCE BAY.
+
+24th (Sunday).
+Left camp in company with Billy Noongale, and proceeded to Esperance Bay,
+distant twenty-four miles. On getting in view of the Bay, was much
+disappointed to see no schooner lying at anchor, and felt very anxious
+for her safety. Was very kindly received by Mrs. Andrew Dempster; the
+Messrs. Dempster being away on Mondrain Island.
+
+25th.
+Went several times up on the hill, looking out for the Adur, but was each
+time disappointed. On my return in the evening, found the party had
+arrived from Mainbenup, and had camped.
+
+26th.
+Rained very heavily all last night. Shifted camp over one mile west of
+homestead to a sheltered spot, where there was feed and wood. No signs of
+the Adur.
+
+27th and 28th.
+Rested at camp; the weather very stormy. The Messrs. Dempster returned
+from Mondrain Island this evening.
+
+29th.
+Shifted camp back to the homestead, and camped in a sheltered nook near
+the Head. On ascending the Look-out Hill this evening, was rejoiced to
+espy the Adur near Cape Le Grand, making in for the Bay, and at 8 o'clock
+went off in Messrs. Dempster's boat, and had the great pleasure of
+finding all hands well. They had experienced heavy weather, but
+everything was dry and safe. I cannot find words to express the joy and
+relief from anxiety this evening; all fears and doubts were at an end,
+and I was now in a position to attempt to carry out my instructions.
+
+The Messrs. Dempster, whose hospitality was so welcome, are good
+specimens of the enterprising settlers who are continually advancing the
+frontiers of civilization, pushing forward into almost unknown regions,
+and establishing homesteads which hereafter may develop into important
+towns. In ten days we had journeyed 160 miles, and had enjoyed a
+foretaste of the nature of the country through which we should have to
+make our way. Four days' rest recruited our energies, and the arrival of
+the Adur, with stores, gave all the party excellent spirits.
+
+The last day of April was occupied with landing the stores required for
+immediate use, and the following day, being Sunday, we rested, and,
+observing the practice adopted in my previous expeditions, I read Divine
+Service to a somewhat larger congregation than I generally had around me.
+
+The horses had suffered from sore backs, the result of saddles being
+stuffed with straw; and on the two following days we were all busy
+restuffing them with wool, and I set Osborn, the farrier, to work to
+widen and alter the iron-work, so as to make the saddles more comfortable
+and easy to the horses. From the 3rd to the 8th of May we remained at Mr.
+Dempster's, and I made a survey of his location, a tract of forty acres.
+On Saturday, the 7th, Mr. William Dempster left for Perth, and I had the
+opportunity of sending a report of our proceedings to that date to the
+Colonial Secretary, and also of forwarding private letters.
+
+LAST DAY IN ESPERANCE BAY.
+
+Sunday, the 8th, being our last day in Esperance Bay, was passed quietly,
+all attending Divine Service at Mr. Dempster's house; and on the
+following morning we prepared to start on the second stage of our
+journey. The Adur was to meet us again at Israelite Bay, about 120 miles
+to the eastward; and here I resume the extracts from my Diary:--
+
+May 9th.
+After collecting the horses, we saddled up and started en route for
+Israelite Bay, where I had instructed the master of the Adur to meet us.
+Bidding good-bye to our kind friends at Esperance Bay, travelled along
+the north shore for about eleven miles, when we left the coast and
+steered towards Mount Merivale, and camped at a spring on South-East
+corner of a salt sake, Mount Merivale bearing North 60 degrees East
+magnetic; Frenchman's Peak North 150 degrees East magnetic, and
+Remarkable Island North 196 degrees East magnetic. The country for the
+last few miles is beautifully grassed, with numerous brackish streams
+running through. Commenced keeping watch this evening, two hours each,
+from 8 p.m. to 6 o'clock a.m. Marked a tree with the letter F. at our
+bivouac.
+
+10th.
+Travelled nearly due East for twenty-four miles, through scrubby, sandy
+country without timber. Remarkable bare granite hills studded in every
+direction. Camped at a spring on South-East side of granite hills,
+resembling a saddle. Passed Mount Hawes, leaving it a little to the
+north. From hill near camp, Mount Hawes bore North 295 degrees East
+magnetic, Mount Merivale North 278 degrees East magnetic, Frenchman's
+Peak North 243 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and the east side of
+Mondrain Island North 207 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic.
+
+11th.
+The horses having strayed back on the tracks last night, we were delayed
+till 10 o'clock, when only eight of them were brought in. Sent Tommy in
+search of the remainder, and, after waiting until 3 o'clock for his
+return, my brother, Osborn, and Billy went with seven horses and loads;
+instructed to camp at the first place where there was feed and water,
+there being no feed at this camp. McLarty and myself waited until Tommy
+returned, which he did at sundown, having had to go back twenty-four
+miles to the bivouac of the 9th. There being scarcely any feed here, and
+it being too late to follow after the party, we tied up our horses for
+the night. Found it rather long hours watching, namely, about four hours
+each. By meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 33 degrees 90
+minutes 49 seconds South.
+
+12th.
+Packed up and followed on the tracks of the party, and at ten miles found
+them camped on a branch of a creek which runs into Duke of Orleans Bay.
+Brackish streams plentiful: scrubby, sandy country. By meridian altitudes
+of sun and Arcturus, camp is in South latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 35
+seconds.
+
+THE ALEXANDER RIVER.
+
+13th.
+Travelled in an easterly direction towards Cape Arid, passing at five
+miles a large creek, and at ten miles camped on a running brackish
+stream, which I named the Alexander. Scrubby open country most of the
+way. Shot a few ducks from thousands that are in these rivers.
+
+14th.
+Continuing a little to the south of East for ten miles, crossed a large
+brook, and at fourteen miles reached another creek. Followed it up a mile
+and camped on east side of a large salt lagoon, into which the brook
+empties. Splendid green feed around camp, but no water. Went with Billy
+to look for some, and, after going a mile and a half East, struck the
+Thomas River, where we met two natives, quietly disposed, who showed us
+the water, and, after filling our canteens, returned with us to camp.
+
+15th (Sunday).
+Shifted camp over to the Thomas River, one mile and a half, where there
+was plenty of water. Rained a little during the day. Grassy piece of
+country round camp--the first good feeding land seen since leaving Mount
+Merivale. About half a mile west of camp, Mount Ragged bore North 43
+degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Baring North 53 degrees 15
+minutes East magnetic, and South-West point of Cape Arid North 140
+degrees 30 minutes East. By meridian altitude of sun, camp was in south
+latitude 33 degrees 50 minutes 7 seconds, and longitude about 123 degrees
+East. Billy shot five ducks this afternoon.
+
+16th.
+Got an early start and steered nearly East, accompanied by the two
+natives, over scrubby sand-plains for about twenty-one miles. We camped
+near the sea, a few miles to the westward of Cape Pasley. Filled our
+canteens about two miles back from where we camped, from which point
+Mount Ragged bore North 11 degrees East magnetic, Cape Pasley North 110
+degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and South-East point of Cape Arid North
+214 degrees East magnetic.
+
+17th.
+Steering in an East-North-East direction for about nineteen miles, we
+camped near Point Malcolm, Mount Ragged bearing North 327 degrees East
+magnetic, and Point Dempster (Israelite Bay) North 35 degrees 15 minutes
+East magnetic. Hope to reach Israelite Bay to-morrow, as it is only
+sixteen miles distant. There was no water at Point Malcolm, but luckily
+we had filled our canteens. The wind was strong from the westward,
+accompanied with light showers all day. Tommy shot a kangaroo this
+evening, and the two natives who were travelling with us from the Thomas
+River did ample justice to the supper, literally eating the whole night.
+
+ISRAELITE BAY.
+
+18th.
+After starting the party, went in advance with Billy to prepare camp at
+Israelite Bay. When we reached it were delighted to find the Adur lying
+safely at anchor there; proceeding on board, found all well. Procured
+abundance of water by digging one foot deep in the sand-hills, and good
+feed a short distance from camp.
+
+Our friends on the Adur were looking anxiously for us. We were two days
+behind the appointed time, and they feared some evil had befallen us, not
+taking into consideration the many delays incidental to such a journey
+through strange and difficult country as we had made. We had occupied ten
+days in reaching Israelite Bay since leaving Mr. Dempster's station,
+going an average of about twelve miles a day, which would be a slow rate
+of progress in a settled country, but which had sufficiently tried our
+horses, they being now in a very reduced condition from scarcity of feed.
+I resolved to stay at the camp for eight or ten days to recruit the
+horses, as there was good feed in the vicinity; and we re-stuffed and
+re-fitted the saddles and had the horses shod. I made a correct chart of
+the route from Esperance Bay, and found that the coast-line, as laid down
+in the Admiralty charts, was in many places incorrect.
+
+On the 24th of May we determined to celebrate the Queen's birthday. All
+hands from the Adur came ashore, and I drew them up in line under the
+Union Jack, which was duly hoisted near the camp. We presented arms; sang
+God Save the Queen vigorously, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns,
+finishing with three cheers. I venture to record that our vocal efforts
+were as sincerely and heartily made in the Australian wilderness as any
+which rang that day in any part of her Majesty's wide dominions. We were
+all highly delighted--not only feeling that we had done our duty as loyal
+subjects, but other celebrations in more civilized places were forcibly
+recalled to memory.
+
+I had fixed the 30th as the time for our fresh start, and we had enough
+to do in packing bags, and making general repairs and improvements in our
+outfit. Eucla Bay, the only other point at which we should be able to
+communicate with the coaster, was 350 miles to the east of Israelite Bay.
+The nature of the country was quite unknown, except so far as indicated
+by the not very encouraging record of Eyre's journey. We felt that we
+should inevitably have to encounter considerable difficulties, and
+perhaps even fail to reach Eucla. I deemed it right to give explicit
+directions to Mr. Waugh, the master of the schooner, so that, in the
+event of not meeting with us at the appointed place, he should have no
+difficulty as to the course to pursue, and to that end I gave him in
+writing the following instructions:--
+
+INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SCHOONER.
+
+Israelite Bay, 28th May, 1870.
+
+SIR,
+
+It being my intention to start for Eucla on Monday, the 30th instant, I
+have the honour to direct you will be good enough to make arrangements
+for leaving this place on the 7th of June, wind and weather permitting,
+and sail as direct as possible for Port Eucla, situated in south latitude
+31 degrees 43 minutes, and east longitude 128 degrees 52 minutes East.
+
+You will remain at anchor in Port Eucla until the 1st September, long
+before which time I hope to reach and meet you there. No signs of myself
+or party appearing by that date, you will bury in casks under the Black
+Beacon, 400 pounds flour, 200 pounds pork, 100 pounds sugar, 10 pounds
+tea, and four bags barley, together with the remainder of our clothing on
+board. You will be careful to hide the spot of concealment as much as
+possible, or by any other means that may suggest themselves. Also you
+will bury a bottle containing report of your proceedings.
+
+All these matters had better be attended to a day or two before, and on
+the 2nd of September you will set sail and return with all despatch to
+this place (Israelite Bay), where, if I have been obliged to return, I
+will leave buried a bottle at this spot (arranged by us yesterday), which
+will contain instructions as to your future proceedings.
+
+No signs of our return being found here, you will sail for Fremantle,
+calling at Esperance Bay on your way.
+
+On arriving in Fremantle, you will immediately report your return to the
+Honourable the Colonial Secretary, and forward him a report of your
+proceedings, after which your charter-party will have been completed.
+
+These arrangements are chiefly respecting your proceedings in the event
+of our not reaching Eucla; and I may add that, although I have every hope
+of reaching there in safety, still it is impossible to command success in
+any enterprise, and I have to impress upon you the necessity of these
+instructions being carried out, as nearly as possible, to the very
+letter. Wishing yourself and crew a prosperous voyage, and hoping soon to
+meet you in Port Eucla,
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition.
+
+Mr. R.B. Waugh,
+
+Master of Schooner Adur.
+
+STARTING FOR EUCLA.
+
+On Sunday, the 29th of May, all hands came ashore to dinner. It was
+certainly a festive party under rather extraordinary circumstances, but
+it was heartily enjoyed. So far as we were concerned the future was more
+than usually uncertain; but there was no feeling of despondency, and we
+separated in the evening with mutual good wishes and hopes for the
+success of the expedition. I read Divine Service, and, situated as we
+were, a small party remote from civilization, I think we all felt more
+impressed than under ordinary circumstances would have been the case. We
+had rested for eleven days. Good food had restored the condition of the
+horses, and we rested in our camp in good spirits, ready for the work we
+were to begin on the following morning. My observations showed that we
+were in latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes 58 seconds South and longitude
+about 123 degrees 48 minutes East, the variation of compass from a number
+of azimuths being about 0 degrees 46 minutes westerly.
+
+The narrative is now continued in extracts from my Diary:--
+
+May 30th.
+After bidding good-bye to the crew of the Adur, and to the two natives we
+have had with us from the Thomas River, who were now at the end of their
+country and were afraid to come any further with us, we left Israelite
+Bay en route for Eucla, and steered in a northerly direction for about
+fifteen miles over salt marshes and clay-pans, with dense thickets
+intervening, destitute of grass. I was obliged to make for the coast,
+and, following it for about eight miles, we camped close to it, without
+water or feed, and tied up our horses in latitude 33 degrees 17 minutes
+17 seconds by meridian altitude of Arcturus and a Bootes.
+
+31st.
+Saddled up at dawn and continued along the beach for four miles; came to
+a large sand patch, and found abundance of water by digging one foot deep
+in the hollows. Camped on east side of the sand-hills, with first-rate
+feed for the horses. By meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 33
+degrees 13 minutes 46 seconds South.
+
+June 1st.
+After starting the party, went with Tommy Windich to examine the country
+to the North-West, and then, travelling nine miles over salt marshes and
+samphire flats, with dense scrub intervening, we reached what is named on
+the Admiralty Charts The Front Bank, which, ascending, we found very
+steep and rough. At last, gaining the summit, the country receded to the
+north, level and thickly wooded, as far as the eye could reach. We
+travelled about four miles to the North-West, from where we ascended the
+range, and then climbed a tree to have a view of the country, which I
+found very level and thickly wooded with mallee. I therefore determined
+to turn east, and if possible, reach the party to-night. Accordingly, we
+reached the sea, and, following the tracks of the party, came up with
+them at about 10 p.m., encamped on North-East side of an immense
+sand-patch, about twenty-five miles from our last night's bivouac. There
+was abundance of water on the surface in the hollows of the sand-hills.
+
+2nd.
+There being no feed near camp, saddled up and continued towards Point
+Culver for four miles and camped, with only some coarse grass growing on
+the white sand-hills for our very hungry horses. Found plenty of water by
+digging. This is a poor place for the horses: intend making a flying trip
+to the North-East to-morrow. By meridian altitude of sun and Arcturus,
+camp is in latitude 32 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude
+124 degrees 25 minutes east.
+
+3rd.
+Started with my brother and Billy to examine the country to the
+North-East, and travelled in about a North-East direction for twenty-five
+miles over very level country, but in many places most beautifully
+grassed. We camped on a splendid flat, without water.
+
+A VIEW OF THE SEA.
+
+4th.
+Started at dawn and travelled in a southerly direction for nine miles,
+when we found a rock water-hole containing one gallon, and had breakfast.
+Continuing for four miles, we reached the cliffs, which fell
+perpendicularly into the sea, and, although grand in the extreme, were
+terrible to gaze from. After looking very cautiously over the precipice,
+we all ran back quite terror-stricken by the dreadful view. Turning our
+course westward along the cliffs, we reached camp at 5 o'clock, and found
+all well. We saw several natives' tracks during the day.
+
+5th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. Read Divine Service. Intend making preparations to-morrow
+for starting on Tuesday morning, and attempt to reach the water shown on
+Mr. Eyre's track, in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, 150 miles
+distant, by carrying thirty gallons of water with us and walking in
+turns, so as to have the horses to carry the water. Intend allowing each
+man one quart and each horse two quarts per day. Feel very anxious as to
+the result, as it will take five or six days; but it is the only resource
+left. After explaining my views to my companions, and pointing out the
+great probability of our meeting with small rock water-holes, was much
+relieved by the sanguine way in which they acquiesced in the plans, and
+the apparent confidence they placed in me.
+
+6th.
+Filled the water-cans, and got everything ready for a start to-morrow
+morning.
+
+7th.
+Started at 9 a.m., carrying over thirty gallons of water with us. One of
+the drums leaked so much that we left it at camp. Travelled along our
+outward tracks of the 4th, and camped at our former bivouac, with
+splendid feed, but no water for our horses.
+
+8th.
+Started early, and steered about North-East through dense mallee
+thickets, destitute of grass or water, for eighteen miles. We came upon a
+small patch of open grassy land, and camped without water for our horses.
+This is the second night our horses have been without water, but the
+grass has been fresh, and they do not yet appear to have suffered much.
+Marked a tree at camp, F., 1870. My brother, I am sorry to say, left his
+revolver at our last night's bivouac, and did not notice it until this
+evening, when it was too far to send back to look for it. By meridian
+altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 34 minutes 20
+seconds south, and longitude 124 degrees 59 minutes east.
+
+SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST.
+
+9th.
+Made an early start, steering North-East, and at one mile found a rock
+water-hole containing fifteen gallons, which we gave the tired, thirsty
+horses, and, continuing, chiefly through dense mallee thickets, with a
+few grassy flats intervening, for twenty-two miles, found another rock
+water-hole holding about ten gallons, which we also gave the horses, and,
+after travelling one mile from it, camped on a large grassy flat, without
+water for the horses. Our horses are still very thirsty, and have yet
+seventy miles to go before reaching the water in longitude 126 degrees 24
+minutes East. Am very thankful for finding the little water to-day, for
+if we had none, our situation would be somewhat perilous, and some of the
+horses would probably show signs of distress to-morrow. Latitude of camp,
+32 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds South by Arcturus, and longitude 125
+degrees 16 minutes East.
+
+10th.
+Steering East-North-East over generally open country, grassy flats, etc.,
+thinly wooded, for twenty-one miles, found a small rock water-hole
+containing three gallons, which we put into our canteens. After
+travelling three miles further, camped on the edge of a grassy flat, and
+gave our horses half a gallon each from our canteens. Our horses appear
+fearfully distressed this evening. For the last ninety-six hours they
+have only had two gallons each. Latitude of camp 32 degrees 11 minutes 5
+seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East.
+
+11th.
+Found, on collecting the horses, that four were missing. Those found were
+in a sad state for want of water, and there was not a moment to lose. I
+therefore at once told Tommy to look for those missing, and, after
+saddling up, sent the party on with my brother, with instructions to
+steer easterly for nearly fifty miles, when they would reach the water in
+longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I remained behind to await Tommy's
+return, and, after an hour's awful anxiety, was rejoiced to see him
+returning with the ramblers. We lost no time in following after the
+party, and at two miles came to a water-hole they had emptied and given
+to the horses (fifteen gallons), and at five miles overtook them. After
+travelling ten miles, found another water-hole with fifteen gallons,
+which we also gave our horses, they being still very thirsty. At fourteen
+miles found a water-hole holding three gallons, which we transferred to
+our canteens; and at fifteen miles camped on a small but very grassy
+flat, close to which we found a water-hole of ten gallons, which I intend
+giving the horses to-morrow morning. Although the horses are still very
+thirsty, they are much relieved, and are willing to feed. We all felt
+tired from long, weary, and continued walking. By meridian altitude of
+Arcturus, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 13 minutes South, and longitude
+125 degrees 51 minutes East.
+
+12th (Sunday).
+After giving the horses the little water found by Tommy last evening, we
+struck a little to the south of east over generally grassy country,
+slightly undulating for three miles, when, being in advance, walking, I
+found a large water-hole with about 100 gallons of water in it. It being
+Sunday, and men and horses very tired, I halted for the day, as there was
+most luxuriant feed round camp. Our horses soon finished the water, and
+looked much better after it. Although now without water, we are in
+comparative safety, as the horses have had nearly sufficient. We are now
+only thirty-two miles from the water shown on Mr. Eyre's chart, in
+longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. Latitude of camp 32 degrees 13
+minutes 35 seconds South, and longitude 125 degrees 54 minutes East.
+
+MEETING NATIVES.
+
+13th.
+Made an early start, and steering a little to the south of east, keeping
+straight for the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. At
+eighteen miles got a view of the sea, and beheld the sand-hills about
+fifteen miles ahead. Here we saw some natives' fires close to us.
+Approaching them, we came upon an old woman, and my brother and Tommy
+soon brought a man to bay. There were about twenty round us; they
+appeared very frightened. After detaining them half an hour, and treating
+them as kindly as possible, we bade them farewell and continued our
+journey. The natives were entirely naked. After we left the natives, we
+came to where the cliffs leave the sea, in longitude 126 degrees 12
+minutes East. From here Point Dover was clearly visible, and I cannot
+express my feelings when gazing on the scene. To the westward, those
+grand precipitous cliffs, from 200 to 300 feet high, and Point Dover,
+near which Mr. Eyre's overseer was murdered, could easily be discerned;
+and while thinking over his hardships and miseries, we turned our faces
+eastward, and there saw, within a few miles, the water we so much needed.
+We then descended the cliffs and reached the sea shore, which we followed
+for about twelve miles, reaching the first sand-patch at about 10 o'clock
+p.m. There was good feed all around, but we could not, from the darkness,
+find any water. Gave our horses all we had with us, about fifteen
+gallons.
+
+A GLIMPSE OF THE ADUR.
+
+14th.
+This morning searched the sand-patches for water, without success; I
+therefore packed up and proceeded towards another large patch, four miles
+distant, going in advance with Billy. After we left, Tommy found a place
+used by the natives, where water could be procured by digging. He,
+however, followed after Billy and myself. On reaching the sand-patch we
+saw the place where water could be procured by digging; we also found
+sufficient to satisfy our horses on some sandstone flats. We were soon
+joined by the party, who were overjoyed to be in perfect safety once
+more, and we were all thankful to that Providence which had guarded us
+over 150 miles without finding permanent water. We soon pitched camp, and
+took the horses to the feed, which was excellent. Returning, we were
+surprised to see a vessel making in for the land, and soon made her out
+to be the Adur. Although the wind was favourable for Eucla, she made in
+for the land until within about three miles, when she turned eastward,
+and, although we made fires, was soon out of sight. I afterwards
+ascertained that they were not sure of their longitude, having no
+chronometer on board, and therefore wished to see some landmark.
+
+15th.
+Dug two wells to-day, and found good water at seven feet from the
+surface. Lined them with stakes and bushes to keep them from filling in.
+In the afternoon we all amused ourselves shooting wattle-birds, and
+managed to kill fifteen.
+
+16th.
+Dug another well and bushed it up, the supply from the two dug yesterday
+being insufficient, and obtained an ample quantity of splendid fresh
+water. By a number of observations, camp is in latitude 32 degrees 14
+minutes 50 seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, the
+variation of compass being about 1 degree 6 minutes easterly. The horses
+are improving very quickly, there being splendid feed round the
+sand-patches.
+
+17th.
+Went with Tommy Windich for a walk eastward along the beach, and returned
+a little inland. Passed over some patches of beautiful grassed country.
+Saw a pine pole standing on one of the hummocks near the beach, probably
+erected by Mr. Eyre, as I am not aware of any one else having been here.
+We could not find any of his camps, however; doubtless the sand has long
+since covered them.
+
+18th.
+Making preparations for a flying trip inland on Monday.
+
+19th (Sunday).
+Read Divine Service. Every appearance of rain.
+
+20th.
+Started this morning, in company with McLarty and Tommy Windich, to
+explore the country to the northward. The first twelve miles north was
+through very dense thickets and sandy hills, when we reached the cliffs,
+which we ascended with difficulty, and steering about North-North-East
+for the first three miles, through dense mallee thickets, we emerged into
+a generally grassy country, and travelled over beautifully-grassed downs.
+We camped at a rock water-hole of fifteen gallons, about twenty-five
+miles from main camp.
+
+21st.
+Steering about north for one mile, we found a rock water-hole holding
+about thirty gallons; and continuing for thirteen miles over grassy
+plains, thinly wooded, the country became very clear and open, and at
+twenty-five miles there was nothing but plains, gently undulating, of
+grass and salt-bush in view. Far as the eye could reach to the
+North-West, North, and North-East, this clear and grassy country
+extended; and being now fifty miles from camp, with the prospect of
+finding water diminishing as we travelled northward, I determined to
+return. Accordingly struck South-West, and after travelling twelve miles
+found a small water-hole of three gallons, and camped for the night. Set
+watch as follows: myself 7 to 11, McLarty 11 to 3.30 a.m., and Tommy from
+3.30 to 6 a.m. We found them rather long hours.
+
+22nd.
+Saddled up at dawn, and steering southerly over clear, open, grassy
+plains for twenty-eight miles, we reached the cliffs, and rested an hour;
+after which we continued our journey and reached camp a little after
+dark, finding all well.
+
+A RELIC OF EYRE.
+
+23rd.
+Made preparations for a start for Eucla to-morrow, and put everything in
+travelling order. During my absence, Osborn had got the horses' feet in
+order, and the pack-saddles had been overhauled, and repairs generally
+made. In looking round the camp, Tommy Windich found shoulder-blade of a
+horse, and two small pieces of leather. They no doubt belonged to Mr.
+Eyre's equipment, and, on reference to his journal, I find he was here
+obliged to kill a horse for food. In his journal he writes thus: "Early
+on the morning of the 16th April, 1841, I sent the overseer to kill the
+unfortunate horse, which was still alive but unable to rise from the
+ground, having never moved from the place where he had first been found
+lying yesterday morning. The miserable animal was in the most wretched
+state possible, thin and emaciated by long and continued suffering, and
+labouring under some complaint that in a very few hours, at the farthest,
+must have terminated its life." I cut off part of the shoulder-blade, and
+have since given it, together with the pieces of leather, to his
+Excellency Governor Weld.
+
+A PARTY OF NATIVES.
+
+24th.
+Started at 8.30 a.m. en route for Eucla. Steering in a North-North-East
+direction for fifteen miles, reached the cliffs, and after following
+along them two miles, found a large rock water-hole, but in an almost
+inaccessible spot. While I was examining the cliffs near, to find a place
+where we could get the horses up, Tommy heard a cooey, and after
+answering it a good many times, we were surprised to see two natives
+walking up towards us, unarmed. I approached and met them; they did not
+appear at all frightened, and at once began to eat the damper I gave
+them. We could not understand anything they said. I beckoned them to come
+along with us, which they at once did, and followed so closely after me
+as to tramp on my spurs. They pointed to water further ahead. After
+walking about a mile, four more natives were seen running after us, who,
+on joining, made a great noise, singing, and appearing very pleased.
+Shortly afterwards two more followed, making seven in all; all entirely
+naked, and every one circumcised. We found the water alluded to on the
+top of the cliffs, but, it being too late to get the horses up, we turned
+off to the southward half a mile, and camped on a small grassy flat,
+without water for the horses. The seven natives slept at our fire. We
+gave them as much damper as they could eat. They had not the least
+particle of clothing, and made pillows of each other's bodies, and
+resembled pigs more than human beings.
+
+25th.
+The horses began to stray towards morning, and at 3 a.m. I roused Billy
+and brought them back. After saddling up, went to the cliffs, and with
+two hours' hard work in making a path and leading up the horses (two of
+which fell backwards), we managed to gain the summit. The seven natives
+accompanied us, and giving one of them the bag containing my rug to carry
+over to the water, I was surprised to see him trotting off with it.
+Calling Tommy, we soon overtook him and made him carry it back to the
+party. After giving our horses as much as they required from the fine
+water-holes, I motioned five of the natives to leave us and two to
+accompany us, which they soon understood, and appeared satisfied.
+Travelling in an East-North-East direction for twenty-one miles, over
+rich grassy table-land plains, thinly wooded, we camped on a very grassy
+spot, without water for our horses. By meridian altitude of Arcturus,
+camp is in latitude 31 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude
+126 degrees 53 minutes East.
+
+26th (Sunday).
+Finding the two natives entirely useless, as we could not understand
+them, and had to give them part of the little water we carried with us,
+motioned them to return, which they appeared very pleased to do. Steering
+in an easterly direction for two miles, over downs of most luxuriant
+grass, we found a large rock water-hole holding over 100 gallons. It was
+Sunday, and all being tired, we camped for the day. In every direction,
+open gently undulating country, most beautifully grassed, extended. By
+meridian altitude of sun, camp is in latitude 31 degrees 53 minutes
+South. Read Divine Service. Tommy and Billy went for a stroll, and
+returned bringing with them two small kangaroos, (the first we have shot
+since leaving Israelite Bay) which proved a great treat. The natives also
+found a fine water-hole about a mile from camp. Gave the horses all the
+water at this place. Every appearance of rain.
+
+27th.
+Made rather a late start, owing to some of the horses straying. Steered
+in an East-North-East direction, and at ten miles found a small
+waterhole, and at twenty-one miles another, both of which we gave our
+horses, and at twenty-four miles camped on a grassy spot, without water
+for our horses. For the first fifteen miles grassy, gently undulating,
+splendid feeding country extended in every direction, after which there
+was a slight falling off, scrubby at intervals. By meridian altitude of
+Arcturus, camp was in latitude 31 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds South,
+and longitude 127 degrees 17 minutes East.
+
+28th.
+Had some difficulty in collecting the horses, and made a late start,
+steering in about an East-North-East direction for the first five miles,
+over very grassy flats, etc., when it became more dense and scrubby until
+twenty miles, after which it improved a little. At twenty-four miles we
+camped on a grassy rise, without water, in south latitude 31 degrees 41
+minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 40 minutes East. Our horses appeared
+distressed for want of water, the weather being very warm.
+
+HEAVY MARCHING.
+
+29th.
+Had to go back five miles to get the horses this morning. After saddling
+up, travelled in about an easterly direction for twenty-four miles, and
+camped on a grassy rise, close to a small rock water-hole. During the
+day, found in small rock-holes sufficient to give each horse about three
+gallons. The country was generally very grassy, although in some places
+rather thickly wooded. McLarty was very foot-sore from heavy and long
+walking. By meridian altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees
+45 minutes South, and longitude 128 degrees 2 minutes East.
+
+30th.
+Hearing the horses make off, I roused Billy and brought them back; they
+had gone two miles. Packed up, and steering in an east direction over
+generally very grassy country with occasional mallee thickets, for about
+twenty-two miles, we came to a splendidly-grassed rise, and found a fine
+rock water-hole on it, containing about 100 gallons, which our horses
+soon finished being fearfully in want, the day being very warm. We are
+now only thirty miles from Eucla. For the last two days McLarty has been
+so lame that I have not allowed him to walk--his boots hurting his feet.
+
+July 1st.
+Made an early start, every one being in high spirits, as I told them they
+should see the sea and Eucla to-day. Travelling about east over most
+beautifully-grassed country, at five miles found a large water-hole,
+holding 100 gallons; but our horses, not being thirsty, did not drink
+much. This is the first rock water-hole we have passed without finishing
+since we left Point Culver. After ten miles reached the cliffs, or
+Hampton Range, and had a splendid view of the Roe Plains, Wilson's Bluff
+looming in the distance, bearing North 77 degrees 30 minutes East
+magnetic.
+
+Descending the cliffs with difficulty, we followed along the foot of
+them, which was beautifully grassed, and, after travelling twelve miles,
+beheld the Eucla sand-hills. On my pointing them out, every heart was
+full of joy, and, being away some distance, I heard the long and
+continued hurrahs from the party! Eucla was all the conversation! I never
+before remember witnessing such joy as was evinced on this occasion by
+all the party. After travelling five miles further we camped close to the
+cliffs, at a small water-hole, Wilson's Bluff bearing North 85 degrees
+East magnetic, and the Delissier sand-hills North 90 degrees East
+magnetic. We might have reached Eucla this evening, but I preferred doing
+so to-morrow, when we could have the day before us to choose camp. We are
+now again in safety, Eucla being only seven miles distant, after having
+travelled 166 miles without finding permanent water--in fact, over 300
+miles with only one place where we procured permanent water, namely, in
+longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East. I trust we all recognized with
+sincerity and thankfulness the guiding and protecting Father who had
+brought us through in safety. By observation, the camp was in latitude 31
+degrees 42 minutes South.
+
+EUCLA REACHED.
+
+2nd.
+Made an early start and steered straight for the anchorage, distant about
+five miles, having first ascended the range to have a view of the
+country, which was very extensive. Far as the eye could reach to the
+westward the Roe Plains and Hampton Range were visible; while to the
+eastward lay Wilson's Bluff and the Delissier sand-hills; and three miles
+west of them we were delighted to behold the good schooner Adur, riding
+safely at anchor in Eucla harbour, which formed by no means the least
+pleasing feature of the scene to our little band of weary travellers.
+Made at once for the vessel, and, on reaching her, found all well and
+glad to see us. She was anchored between the Red and Black Beacons. The
+latter had been blown down, but shall be re-erected. There being no water
+at the anchorage, moved on to the Delissier sand-hills, where we found
+water by digging two and a half feet from the surface. Camped on west
+side of the sand-hills. Landed barley, etc., from the boat. There was
+good feed for the horses under the Hampton Range, about a mile and a half
+distant.
+
+The next day was Sunday. The crew of the Adur came ashore and dined with
+us, and, as usual, I read Divine Service. On the following morning I went
+aboard the schooner and examined the log-book and charts. We painted the
+Red and Black Beacons, and Mr. Adams having trimmed up a spar, we erected
+a flagstaff thirty-four feet high. I occupied myself the next day with
+preparing a report to be sent to the Colonial Secretary. My brother went
+off to the boat and brought ashore the things we required. We were busy
+on the following days packing up and shipping things not required for the
+trip to Adelaide, and I gave the master of the Adur instructions to sail
+with all despatch for Fremantle.
+
+The following report, which I sent back by the Adur, describes the
+progress then made with somewhat more detail than in my Journal:--
+
+Port Eucla, 7th July, 1870.
+
+SIR,
+
+It is with much pleasure I have the honour to report, for the information
+of his Excellency the Governor, the safe arrival here of the expedition
+entrusted to my guidance, as also the meeting of the schooner Adur.
+
+Leaving Esperance Bay on the 9th of May, we travelled in an easterly
+direction, over plains generally poorly grassed, to Israelite Bay
+(situated in latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes 51 seconds South, and
+longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East), which we reached on the 18th May,
+and met the Adur, according to instructions issued to the master. Here we
+recruited our horses and had them re-shod, put the pack-saddles in good
+order, packed provisions, etc., and gave the master of the Adur very
+strict and detailed instructions to proceed to Eucla Harbour, and await
+my arrival until the 2nd of September, when, if I did not reach there, he
+was to bury provisions under the Black Beacon and sail for Fremantle, via
+Israelite and Esperance Bays. Everything being in readiness, on the 30th
+of May we left Israelite Bay en route for Eucla, carrying with us three
+months' provisions. Keeping near the coast for sixty miles, having taken
+a flying trip inland on my way, we reached the sand-patches a little to
+the west of Point Culver, in latitude 32 degrees 55 minutes 34 seconds
+South, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East, on the 2nd of June.
+
+On the 3rd went on a flying trip to the North-East, returning on the 4th
+along the cliffs and Point Culver. I found the country entirely destitute
+of permanent water, but, after leaving the coast a few miles, to be, in
+places, beautifully grassed. On the coast near the cliffs it was very
+rocky, and there was neither feed nor water. Finding there was no chance
+of permanent water being found, that the only water in the country was in
+small rocky holes--and those very scarce indeed--and the feed being very
+bad at Point Culver, I determined, after very mature consideration, to
+attempt at all hazards to reach the water shown on Mr. Eyre's track in
+longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, or 140 miles distant.
+
+In accordance with these arrangements, on the 7th day of June started on
+our journey, carrying over thirty gallons of water on three of our riding
+horses, and taking it in turns walking. Travelled about North-East for
+four days, which brought us to latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes South, and
+longitude 125 degrees 37 minutes East, finding, during that time, in
+rocky holes, sufficient water to give each horse two gallons. On the
+fifth day we were more fortunate, and were able to give them each two
+gallons more, and on the sixth day (the 12th June, Sunday) found a large
+rock hole containing sufficient to give them five gallons each, which
+placed us in safety, as the water in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes
+East was only thirty-two miles distant. Continuing, we reached the water
+on Tuesday, June 14th, and by observation found it to be in latitude 32
+degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds South, and longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes
+East, the variation of the compass being about 1 degree 6 minutes
+easterly.
+
+The country passed over between Point Culver and longitude 126 degrees 24
+minutes East, was in many places beautifully grassed, level, without the
+slightest undulation, about 300 feet above the sea, and not very thickly
+wood. It improves to the northward, being clearer and more grassy, and
+the horizon to the north, in every place where I could get an extensive
+view, was as uniform and well-defined as that of the sea. On the route
+from Point Culver to longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, we were from
+twenty to twenty-five miles from the sea.
+
+Recruiting ourselves and horses till the 30th, I took a flying trip to
+the northward. For the first twelve miles from the sea was through a
+dense and almost impenetrable scrub, when we reached the cliffs, and
+after ascending them we came into the same description of level country
+that we travelled over from Point Culver, save that this was more open
+and grassy, and became still clearer as we proceeded north, until, at our
+farthest point north, in latitude 31 degrees 33 minutes South, and
+longitude 126 degrees 33 minutes East, scarcely a tree was visible, and
+vast plains of grass and saltbush extended as far as the eye could reach
+in every direction. We found a little water for our horses in rock holes.
+Returning, we reached camp on June 22nd. On the 23rd we were engaged
+making preparations for a start for Eucla. In looking round camp, Tommy
+Windich found the shoulder-blade of a horse and two small pieces of
+leather belonging to a packsaddle. The shoulder-blade is no doubt the
+remains of the horse Mr. Eyre was obliged to kill for food at this spot.
+
+On June 24th started for Eucla, carrying, as before, over thirty gallons
+of water, and walking in turns. On the 25th found on the top of the
+cliffs a large rock hole, containing sufficient water to give the horses
+as much as they required, and on the 26th were equally fortunate. From
+the 26th to the 30th we met with scarcely any water, and our horses
+appeared very distressed, more so as the weather was very warm. On the
+evening of the 30th, however, we were again fortunate enough to find a
+water-hole containing sufficient to give them six gallons each, and were
+again in safety, Eucla water being only thirty miles distant. On the
+morning of the 1st day of July we reached the cliffs, or Hampton Range
+(these cliffs recede from the sea in longitude 126 degrees 12 minutes
+East, and run along at the average distance of twelve or fifteen miles
+from the sea until they join it again at Wilson's Bluff, in longitude 129
+degrees East. They are very steep and rough, and water may generally be
+found in rock holes in the gorges. I, however, wished to keep further
+inland, and therefore did not follow them), and shortly afterwards we
+beheld the Wilson's Bluff and the Eucla sand-hills. Camped for the night
+near the Hampton Range, about five miles from Eucla Harbour, and on the
+2nd July, on nearing the anchorage, discovered the schooner Adur lying
+safely at anchor, which proved by no means the least pleasing feature to
+our little band of weary travellers. Camped on west side of Delissier
+sand-hills, and found water by digging.
+
+The country passed over between longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East, as
+a grazing country, far surpasses anything I have ever seen. There is
+nothing in the settled portions of Western Australia equal to it, either
+in extent or quality; but the absence of permanent water is the great
+drawback, and I do not think water would be procured by sinking, except
+at great depths, as the country is at least three hundred feet above the
+sea, and there is nothing to indicate water being within an easy depth
+from the surface. The country is very level, with scarcely any
+undulation, and becomes clearer as you proceed northward.
+
+Since leaving Cape Arid I have not seen a gully or watercourse of any
+description--a distance of 400 miles.
+
+The route from longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East to Eucla was
+generally about thirty miles from the sea.
+
+The natives met with appeared friendly and harmless; they are entirely
+destitute of clothing, and I think not very numerous.
+
+Very little game exists along the route; a few kangaroos were seen, but
+no emus--an almost certain sign, I believe, of the scarcity of water.
+
+The health of the party has been excellent; and I cannot speak too highly
+of the manner in which each member of the expedition has conducted
+himself, under circumstances often of privation and difficulty.
+
+All our horses are also in splendid condition; and when I reflect how
+great were the sufferings of the only other Europeans who traversed this
+route, I cannot but thank Almighty God who has guarded and guided us in
+safety through such a waterless region, without the loss of even a single
+horse.
+
+I am afraid I shall not be able to get far inland northward, unless we
+are favoured with rain. We have not had any rain since the end of April,
+and on that account our difficulties have been far greater than if it had
+been an ordinary wet season.
+
+I intend despatching the Adur for Fremantle to-morrow. The charter-party
+has been carried out entirely to my satisfaction. With the assistance of
+the crew of the Adur I have repainted the Red and Black Beacons. The
+latter had been blown down; we, however, re-erected it firmly again. I
+have also erected a flagstaff, thirty feet high, near camp on west side
+of Delissier sand-hills, with a copper-plate nailed on it, with its
+position, my name, and that of the colony engraved on it.
+
+We are now within 140 miles from the nearest Adelaide station. I will
+write to you as soon as I reach there. It will probably be a month from
+this date.
+
+Trusting that the foregoing brief account of my proceedings, as leader of
+the expedition entrusted to my guidance, may meet with the approval of
+his Excellency the Governor,
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition to Eucla and Adelaide.
+
+The Honourable the Colonial Secretary,
+
+Perth, W.A.
+
+We had now accomplished rather more than half the distance between Perth
+and Adelaide, but there was still a gap of 140 miles to be bridged over.
+We bade good-bye to our friends on board the Adur, and were now thrown
+entirely on our own resources. I resume the extracts from my Journal:--
+
+LOOKING FOR WATER.
+
+July 8th.
+Started in company with my brother and Billy, having three riding horses
+and a pack horse, to penetrate the country to the northward. Travelled in
+a northerly direction for about twenty-seven miles, over plains generally
+well grassed, and then bivouacked. From the camp only plains were in
+sight, not a tree visible. Did not meet with a drop of water on our way,
+and, having brought none, we had to do without it. This season is too dry
+to attempt to cross these vast grassy plains, and I shall return to camp
+to-morrow--the attempt to get inland without rain only exhausting
+ourselves and horses to no purpose.
+
+9th.
+After collecting the horses, which had strayed back on the tracks, we
+steered in a South-South-West direction, and reached camp a little after
+sundown. Did not find any water, except about half a gallon, during the
+two days, and, the weather being warm, the horses were in a very
+exhausted state when they reached camp. Found the Adur had left yesterday
+afternoon.
+
+10th (Sunday).
+Rested at Eucla. Read Divine Service.
+
+11th.
+Osborn busy with the shoeing. Went with Billy to Wilson's Bluff, and saw
+the boundary-post between South and Western Australia, placed by
+Lieutenant Douglas. Returned at sundown.
+
+12th.
+Erected the flagstaff with the Union Jack flying, and nailed a copper
+plate to the staff, with the following engraved on it:--
+
+WESTERN AUSTRALIA. ERECTED BY
+J. FORREST, JULY 12TH, 1870.
+
+From the flagstaff, Wilson's Bluff bore North 70 degrees 15 minutes East
+magnetic, and the Black Beacon North 246 degrees 20 minutes East
+magnetic, and it is situated in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds
+South.
+
+13th.
+There was a total eclipse of the moon in the morning. All busy preparing
+for a start for the Head of the Bight to-morrow. Buried a cask eight feet
+west of flagstaff, containing 100 pounds flour, 130 pounds barley, 16 new
+sets of horse-shoes, shoeing nails, etc. Nailed a plate on flagstaff,
+with DIG 8 FEET WEST on it. Took a ride to the Black and Red Beacons, to
+examine country round Eucla.
+
+14th.
+Bidding farewell to Eucla and the Union Jack, which we left on the
+flagstaff, we started for the Head of the Bight, carrying over thirty
+gallons of water with us, and walking in turns. Ascended the cliffs
+without difficulty, and passed the boundary of the two colonies; then
+left the sea, and, steering in an East-North-East and North-East
+direction until a little after dark, camped on a grassy piece of country,
+without water for our horses. Distance travelled about twenty-six miles.
+By observation camp is in latitude 31 degrees 30 minutes 42 seconds
+South, and longitude 129 degrees 20 minutes East.
+
+SUFFERING FROM THIRST.
+
+15th.
+Started at daylight, and travelled East-North-East for seven miles, when
+we bore East over generally level country, well grassed, but entirely
+destitute of water. We camped at sundown on a grassy rise, without water
+for our horses. Distance travelled, thirty-four miles. The horses have
+not had any water for two days, and show signs of distress. Intend
+starting before daylight, as there is a good moon.
+
+16th.
+At 1 a.m. went with Billy to bring back the horses, which had again made
+off. After returning, saddled up, and at 4.50 a.m. got under way,
+steering a little to the south of east in order to make the cliffs, as
+there might be water in rock holes near them. At eighteen miles came to
+the sea, but could find no water. At thirty miles saw a pile of stones,
+and at thirty-three miles saw a staked survey line. Camped on a grassy
+piece of country, two miles from the sea. This is the third day without a
+drop of water for the horses, which are in a frightful state. Gave them
+each four quarts from our water-drums, and I hope, by leaving a little
+after midnight, to reach the Head of the Bight to-morrow evening, as it
+is now only forty miles distant. By observation, camp is in latitude 31
+degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds South, and longitude 130 degrees 30 minutes
+East.
+
+17th.
+Was obliged to get up twice to bring back the horses, and at four o'clock
+made a start. The horses were in a very exhausted state; some having
+difficulty to keep up. About noon I could descry the land turning to the
+southward, and saw, with great pleasure, we were fast approaching the
+Head of the Great Australian Bight. Reached the sand-patches at the
+extreme Head of the Bight just as the sun was setting, and found
+abundance of water by digging two feet deep in the sand. Gave the horses
+as much as I considered it safe for them to have at one time. I have
+never seen horses in such a state before, and hope never to do so again.
+The horses, which four days ago were strong and in good condition, now
+appeared only skeletons, eyes sunk, nostrils dilated, and thoroughly
+exhausted. Since leaving Eucla to getting water at this spot, a period of
+nearly ninety hours, they had only been allowed one gallon of water each,
+which was given them from our water-drums. It is wonderful how well they
+performed this journey; had they not started in good condition, they
+never could have done it. We all felt very tired. During the last sixty
+hours I have only had about five hours' sleep, and have been continually
+in a great state of anxiety--besides which, all have had to walk a great
+deal.
+
+SIGNS OF CIVILIZATION.
+
+18th.
+This is a great day in my journal and journey. After collecting the
+horses we followed along the beach half a mile, when I struck North for
+Peelunabie well, and at half a mile struck a cart track from Fowler's Bay
+to Peelunabie. After following it one mile and a quarter, came to the
+well and old sheep-yards, and camped. Found better water in the
+sand-hills than in the well. There is a board nailed on a pole directing
+to the best water, with the following engraved on it:
+
+G. Mackie, April 5th, 1865, Water [finger pointing right] 120 yards.
+
+Upon sighting the road this morning, which I had told them we should do,
+a loud and continued hurrahing came from all the party, who were
+overjoyed to behold signs of civilization again; while Billy, who was in
+advance with me, and whom I had told to look out, as he would see a road
+directly, which he immediately did, began giving me great praise for
+bringing them safely through such a long journey. I certainly felt very
+pleased and relieved from anxiety, and, on reviewing the long line of
+march we had performed through an uncivilized country, was very sensible
+of that protecting Providence which had guided us safely through the
+undertaking.
+
+19th.
+Steered in an easterly direction along an old track towards Wearing's
+well, as I intend going inland, instead of along the coast to Fowler's
+Bay. Travelled for sixteen miles through a barren and thickly-wooded
+country, sand-hills, etc. We camped on a small grassy flat, without
+water. Being now in the settled districts I gave over keeping watch,
+which we had regularly done since the 9th of May.
+
+20th.
+Continuing for fifteen miles, we reached a deserted well called
+Wearing's; it was about 200 feet deep, and after joining all the
+tether-ropes, girths, bridle reins, halters, etc., we managed to get up a
+bucket full, but after all our trouble it was quite salt. We therefore
+continued our journey South-East for Fowler's Bay, and at four miles saw
+some fresh sheep tracks, and shortly afterwards saw the shepherd, named
+Jack, who was very talkative. He told us he had been to Swan River, and
+thought it was quite as good as this place. He also said there was a well
+of good water about eight miles further on. This was a pleasant surprise,
+the nearest well on my chart being sixteen miles distant: this was a new
+well sunk since the survey. We therefore pushed on, although our horses
+were very tired, and reached the well, where there was a substantial
+stone hut; met the shepherd, whose name was Robinson. He said he knew who
+we were, having heard about three months ago that we might be expected
+this way. He was as kind and obliging as it was possible to be in his
+circumstances. Had a difficulty in drawing water for the horses, the well
+being nearly 200 feet deep, and there was not a bite for the poor
+creatures to eat, except a few miles off. As it was now an hour after
+dark, I turned them out, and left them to do the best they could. The old
+shepherd kept talking most of the night, and said we looked more like
+people just come from Fowler's Bay than having come overland from Western
+Australia.
+
+21st.
+The horses strayed off in many directions during the night, and they were
+not all collected till after noon, when we continued our journey for four
+miles, and finding a small piece of feed, we camped without water for the
+horses. Many of the horses were in a very critical state, and one was
+completely knocked up.
+
+22nd.
+Again were delayed by the rambling of the horses until nearly noon, when
+we travelled along the road towards Fowler's Bay. After ten miles,
+watered the horses at a well called Waltabby, and two miles further on
+camped, with scarcely any feed for the horses. One of the horses
+completely gave in to-day, and we had great difficulty in getting him to
+camp. By meridian altitude of Arcturus, camp is in latitude 31 degrees 34
+minutes 28 seconds South.
+
+REACHING A STATION.
+
+23rd.
+Although the feed was short, our horses did not stray, and after saddling
+up we continued along road for two and a half miles, and reached Colona,
+the head station of Degraves and Co., of Victoria, where we were most
+hospitably received by Mr. Maiden, the manager. At his desire camped, and
+turned out the horses on a piece of feed kept for his horses, and intend
+remaining over Sunday. We accepted his kind invitation to make ourselves
+his guests while we remained. He informed me that the South Australian
+Government had instructed the mounted trooper at Fowler's Bay to proceed
+to the Head of the Bight and give us every information and assistance in
+his power. I am glad we have saved him the journey.
+
+24th.
+Rested at Colona. In the afternoon was rather surprised at the arrival of
+Police-trooper Richards and party, who were on their way to try and find
+out our whereabouts. He handed me a circular for perusal, stating that
+anything I required would be paid for by the South Australian Government.
+
+25th.
+Left Colona, accompanied by Police-trooper Richards and party. Mr. Maiden
+also accompanied us a few miles, when he returned, bearing with him my
+sincere thanks for his kindness to myself and party. After travelling
+eleven miles, we reached the hospitable residence of Messrs. Heathcote
+and Mathers, where we stayed to dinner, and, although pressed to stay,
+pushed on seven miles, and camped at a well called Pintumbra.
+
+26th.
+Rested at Pintumbra, as there was good feed for our tired and hungry
+horses. Police-trooper Richards and party also remained with us.
+
+AT FOWLERS BAY.
+
+27th.
+Travelled towards Fowler's Bay, and at ten miles reached Yallata, the
+residence of Mr. Armstrong, where we had dinner, and afterwards reached
+Fowler's Bay and put up at the Police-station.
+
+28th to 31st.
+Remained at Fowler's Bay, recruiting ourselves and horses, and wrote the
+following letters to the Honourable the Colonial Secretary, Western
+Australia, and to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson, Governor of South
+Australia:--
+
+Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have the honour to report, for the information of his Excellency the
+Governor, the safe arrival here of the exploring expedition under my
+command, and beg to give you a brief outline of our proceedings since the
+departure of the schooner Adur from Port Eucla.
+
+On the 8th of July, started on a flying trip north from Eucla, with
+fourteen days' provisions, but was unable to penetrate more than thirty
+miles (which was over clear open plains of grass, etc., scarcely a tree
+visible), on account of the scarcity of water, not meeting with a drop of
+water on the whole journey. Returned to Eucla on the 9th, and, as summer
+had apparently set in, and there appeared no likelihood of rain, I
+decided to at once start for Fowler's Bay and Adelaide.
+
+On the 14th, therefore, we started, carrying with us about thirty gallons
+of water. After great privation to our horses, and not meeting with a
+drop of water for 135 miles, by travelling day and night we reached the
+Head of the Bight on the evening of the 17th July, and found abundance of
+water by digging in the sand-hills.
+
+Our horses had been ninety hours without a drop of water, and many of us
+were very weary from long marching without sleep. Many of the horses
+could scarcely walk, and a few were delirious; they, however, all managed
+to carry their loads. They have not, however, yet recovered, but with a
+few days' rest I hope to see them well again. There being very little
+feed at the Head of the Bight we continued our journey, and on the 23rd
+July reached Colona (head station of Degraves and Co.), where we met
+Police-trooper Richards, who was on his way to the Head of the Bight to
+meet us, in accordance with instructions from his Excellency Sir James
+Fergusson.
+
+Leaving Colona on the 25th, we reached Fowler's Bay on the 27th July, all
+well.
+
+We are now about 600 miles from Adelaide. Our route will be through the
+Gawler Ranges, skirting the south end of Lake Gairdner, and thence to
+Port Augusta and Adelaide, which we shall probably reach in five or six
+weeks from date.
+
+By this mail I have written to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson,
+apprising him of our safe arrival, as well as giving him a brief account
+of our journey. According to present arrangements we shall, at latest, be
+in Perth by the October mail.
+
+Trusting that these proceedings may meet with the approval of his
+Excellency the Governor, I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition to Eucla and Adelaide.
+
+The Honourable the Colonial Secretary, Perth, Western Australia.
+
+Fowler's Bay, 29th July, 1870.
+
+SIR,
+
+In accordance with my instructions from the Government of Western
+Australia, I have the honour to report, for the information of his
+Excellency Sir James Fergusson, that the exploring expedition organized
+by that Government and placed under my command, has reached this place in
+safety.
+
+With his Excellency's permission, I will give a brief account of our
+journey since leaving Perth.
+
+OFFICIAL REPORT.
+
+Leaving Perth on the 30th March, we reached Esperance Bay, the station of
+the Messrs. Dempster, on the 25th April, and remained to recruit our
+horses until the 9th May, when we continued in an easterly direction for
+about 130 miles, and reached Israelite Bay, in latitude 33 degrees 37
+minutes South and longitude 123 degrees 48 minutes East, where we met a
+coasting vessel with our supplies, etc.
+
+Left Israelite Bay on May 30th, and reached the water shown on Mr. Eyre's
+track in longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East on the 14th June,
+depending wholly on rock water-holes during the journey. Here we
+recruited and made a trip inland for fifty miles, finding the country to
+be very clear and well grassed, but entirely destitute of permanent
+water.
+
+Leaving longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East on 24th June, we reached
+Eucla on the 2nd July, depending again solely on rock water-holes, our
+horses often being in great want of water. At Eucla we again met the
+coaster with supplies, etc.
+
+After despatching the coaster on her return to Swan River, attempted to
+get inland north of Eucla; but, owing to the scarcity of water and the
+dryness of the season, was unable to get more than thirty miles inland. I
+therefore concluded to continue the journey towards Adelaide, and
+accordingly left Eucla on July 14th, reaching the Head of the Great
+Australian Bight on the evening of the 17th, after a very hard and
+fatiguing journey, without a drop of water for our horses for ninety
+hours, in which time we travelled 138 miles.
+
+Men and horses were in a very weary state when we reached the water,
+which we found by digging in the sand-hills at the extreme Head of the
+Bight. Continuing, we reached Fowler's Bay on the 27th July.
+
+From longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East to Port Eucla, in longitude
+128 degrees 53 minutes East, our route was from twenty to thirty miles
+from the sea, and in the whole of that distance we only procured
+permanent water in one spot, namely that shown on Mr. Eyre's track in
+longitude 126 degrees 24 minutes East.
+
+On our route we passed over many millions of acres of grassy country, but
+I am sorry to say I believe entirely destitute of permanent water. The
+natives met with were friendly, but to us altogether unintelligible. The
+health of my party has been excellent, and we have reached this place
+without losing a single horse.
+
+Before reaching Fowler's Bay, we were met by Police-trooper Richards, who
+was on his way to meet us, in accordance with instructions from his
+Excellency. I am truly thankful for this, as he has been of great service
+to us, and has been very attentive to our requirements. I hope to reach
+Adelaide in five weeks from date. My route will be through the Gawler
+Ranges to Port Augusta, and thence to Adelaide.
+
+Trusting that this short account of our journey may not be wholly
+uninteresting to his Excellency, I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition from Western Australia.
+
+The Private Secretary, Government House, Adelaide, South Australia.
+
+August 1st.
+Left Fowler's Bay, accompanied by Police-trooper Richards, en route for
+Port Augusta. Travelled fourteen miles in about an East-North-East
+direction and camped. Rained lightly this evening.
+
+2nd.
+Reached Pinong station. Distance travelled, thirty miles. Passed several
+huts and wells. The whole journey was over most beautifully-grassed
+country.
+
+3rd.
+Left Pinong, and, after travelling thirty miles, reached a spot called
+Athena; then camped, leaving Charra station about seven miles to the
+southward. Passed a few huts and wells during the day.
+
+4th.
+At seventeen miles reached Denial Bay, when we turned off towards Hosken
+and Broadbent's stations, and at thirteen miles further camped on a very
+grassy rise, with two small rock water-holes, called Merking. By meridian
+altitude of a Lyrae (Vega), found it to be in latitude 32 degrees 12
+minutes 36 seconds South.
+
+PANEY STATION.
+
+5th.
+After travelling eight miles, came to a deserted station of Hosken and
+Broadbent's, and found abundance of water in a rock water-hole called
+Chillandee. As the horses were very tired, and there was splendid feed
+for them, we camped here for the remainder of the day.
+
+6th.
+Left Chillandee, and after travelling twenty-six miles, passed
+Madebuckela, the homestead of Mr. Hosken, where we camped at a deserted
+hut, with splendid feed and water for the horses.
+
+7th.
+Travelled towards Gawler Ranges for thirteen miles, and camped at a spot
+called Conkabeena, from which the ranges were clearly visible.
+
+8th.
+Continuing in an easterly direction for twelve miles, we reached
+Wollular, a granite hill with plenty of water on the rocks; after which
+proceeded due east for twelve miles, through dense thickets and sandy
+hills, when we came on a small patch of grassy land and camped, Mount
+Centre bearing North 95 degrees East magnetic.
+
+9th.
+Continuing towards Mount Centre for eighteen miles, over a succession of
+salt lakes and very sandy hills and scrub, we reached a road making a
+little farther north, which was followed, and after travelling five miles
+came to Narlibby, and camped on most beautiful feed.
+
+10th.
+After taking wrong roads and going a good deal out of our way, we reached
+Paney station and camped at the police-station.
+
+11th and 12th.
+Rested at Paney, as the horses were very tired, and there was splendid
+feed for them. Police-trooper Richards intends returning to-morrow to
+Fowler's Bay. He has given us every assistance in his power, and deserves
+our very sincere thanks for his kindness and attention.
+
+13th to 17th.
+Travelling towards Port Augusta, accompanied for half the distance by
+Police trooper O'Shanahan, from Paney station.
+
+18th.
+Reached Port Augusta. Telegraphed to his Excellency Sir James Fergusson,
+informing him of our arrival. Camped five miles from Port Augusta, at a
+small township named Stirling.
+
+19th.
+Received telegram from his Excellency Sir James Fergusson, congratulating
+us on our success. Camped a few miles from Mount Remarkable.
+
+20th.
+Passed through Melrose, and on the 23rd reached Clare, where I had the
+pleasure of meeting Mr. John Roe, son of the Honourable Captain Roe, our
+respected Surveyor-General.
+
+On August 24th reached Riverton, and on the 25th Gawler. On the 26th we
+arrived at Salisbury, twelve miles from Adelaide. Through all these towns
+we have been most cordially received, and I shall never forget the
+attention and kindly welcome received on the journey through South
+Australia.
+
+RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE.
+
+On the 27th August we left Salisbury, and for an account of our journey
+from there to Adelaide I cannot do better than insert an extract from the
+South Australian Register of August 27th, 1870:--
+
+"On Saturday morning the band of explorers from Western Australia, under
+the leadership of Mr. Forrest, made their entrance into Adelaide. They
+left Salisbury at half-past nine o'clock, and when within a few miles of
+the city were met by Inspector Searcy and one or two other members of the
+police force. Later on the route they were met by an escort of horsemen,
+who had gone out to act as a volunteer escort. At Government House Gate a
+crowd of persons assembled, who gave them a hearty cheer as they rode up.
+The whole party at once rode up to Government House, where they were
+received by his Excellency, who was introduced to all the members of the
+expedition, and spent a quarter of an hour in conversation with Mr.
+Forrest, and in examining with interest the horses and equipments, which
+all showed signs of the long and severe journey performed. Wine having
+been handed round, the party withdrew, and were again greeted at
+Government Gate by hearty cheers from the crowd, which now numbered
+several hundreds. They then proceeded by way of Rundle Street to the
+quarters assigned them at the police barracks. The men are to remain at
+the barracks, and the officers are to be entertained at the City of
+Adelaide Club."
+
+From August 28th to September 12th we remained in Adelaide, having been
+most kindly received by all with whom we came in contact. We saw as much
+of the country as possible. I disposed of my horses and equipment by
+public auction; then left in the steamer Alexandra with the whole of my
+party on the 12th, reaching King George's Sound on the 17th at 1 a.m.
+Left King George's Sound on the 19th, and arrived in Perth on the 27th,
+where we were most cordially welcomed by his Excellency the Governor and
+the citizens of Perth, having been absent 182 days.
+
+In the foregoing I have attempted to give a faithful and correct account
+of our proceedings, and, in conclusion, beg to make a few remarks
+respecting the character and the capabilities of the country travelled
+over.
+
+In about longitude 124 degrees East the granite formation ends, at least
+on and near the coast; but from longitude 124 degrees to the Head of the
+Bight, a distance of over 400 miles, there is no change in the formation,
+being limestone and high table land the whole distance.
+
+The portion most suited for settlement is, I believe, between longitude
+126 degrees 12 minutes East and longitude 129 degrees East, near Eucla
+harbour, or, in other words, the country to the north of the Hampton
+Range--the country north of the range being most beautifully grassed, and
+I believe abundance of water could be procured anywhere under the range
+by sinking twenty or thirty feet. There is also under the same range a
+narrow strip of fine grassy country for the whole length of the range,
+namely about 160 miles. I have every confidence that, should the country
+be settled, it would prove a remunerative speculation, and, if water can
+be procured on the table land, would be the finest pastoral district of
+Western Australia.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+Before I conclude, I have the pleasing duty to record my entire
+appreciation of every member of the party. I need not particularize, as
+one and all had the interest and welfare of the expedition at heart, and
+on no occasion uttered a single murmur.
+
+Finally, sir, my best and most sincere thanks are due to his Excellency
+Governor Weld for the very efficient manner in which the expedition was
+equipped. It is chiefly owing to the great zeal and desire of his
+Excellency that I should have everything necessary that the success of
+the enterprise is attributable.
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST,
+
+Leader of Expedition.
+
+The Honourable F.P. Barlee, Esquire,
+
+Colonial Secretary, Western Australia.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+RECEPTION AT ADELAIDE AND RETURN TO PERTH.
+
+Departure from Gawler and Arrival at Adelaide.
+Appearance of the Party.
+Public Entrance.
+Complimentary Banquet.
+Grant by the Government of Western Australia.
+
+ARRIVAL AT ADELAIDE.
+
+On Saturday, the 27th of August, we reached Adelaide. On the previous day
+we had left Gawler for Salisbury, where we rested until the following
+morning, when we started at half-past nine o'clock for Adelaide. A few
+miles from there we were met by the chief inspector of police and some
+troopers sent to escort us, and soon afterwards a volunteer escort of
+horsemen gave us a friendly welcome. We were heartily cheered as we
+entered the town and then rode to Government House, where we were
+received in the most cordial manner by the Governor, Sir James Fergusson.
+After a brief time spent in examining the horses (which were all the
+worse for the long and arduous journey) also the equipments, and in
+partaking of refreshments, we left the Government House, the people
+cheering lustily, and passed through King William and Rundle Streets on
+the way to the City of Adelaide Club. My brother and self stayed there
+while in town, and the others at the police barracks, where man and horse
+enjoyed the much-needed rest and refreshment.
+
+It may interest the reader to quote from the South Australian Advertiser
+the description of our appearance when we first entered Adelaide: "It was
+a genuine Australian bush turnout, the trappings, water-drums, and other
+necessaries being admirably adapted for the purpose. The horses looked
+somewhat the worse for wear; but, considering the immense distance that
+they have travelled, their condition was not to be complained of, and a
+few weeks in the Government paddocks will put them in capital condition.
+The officers and men, both white and black, look the picture of health,
+and their satisfaction at having completed their long and arduous task is
+beaming from their countenances."
+
+Whatever our countenances may have expressed, I know we felt an intense
+satisfaction at having been enabled to discharge the duty we had
+undertaken.
+
+On the evening of the 3rd of September Sir James Fergusson entertained us
+at dinner, and many old colonists who, in their time, had been engaged in
+exploring expeditions, were among the guests. Mr. Barlee, the Colonial
+Secretary of Western Australia, who arrived in Adelaide a day or two
+after we had reached it, was present with me at the luncheon on the
+occasion of the inauguration of the Northern Railway Extension at
+Kooringa. In replying to the toast of The Visitors, he took the
+opportunity of thanking the South Australian people and the Government
+for the courtesy and kindness extended to me and the members of my party,
+who, he said, had carried out the instructions so successfully and in a
+manner which made him proud of the colony to which he belonged. He hoped
+that the line of communication that had been opened might soon lead to
+much better and closer intercommunication between the colonies.
+
+With characteristic consideration and kindness Governor Weld, immediately
+on receiving my report from Eucla, addressed a private letter to my
+father, congratulating him on my success.
+
+RECEPTION AT PERTH.
+
+Anxious to lose no time in reporting myself to my Government, I only
+remained in South Australia about a fortnight, and then left for Perth in
+the Branch mail steamer, and arrived there on Tuesday, the 27th of
+September. The City Council determined to give us a public reception and
+present an address. A four-in-hand drag was despatched to bring us into
+the city, and a procession, consisting of several private carriages, a
+number of the citizens on horseback, and the volunteer band, escorted us.
+The city flag was flying at the Town Hall, and there was a liberal
+display of similar tokens from private dwellings. The Governor and his
+aide-de-camp came out five miles to meet us, and accompanied us to the
+beginning of the city, where he handed us over to the Council, meeting us
+again at the Government offices. A crowd had collected in front of the
+Government offices, where we were to alight, and amid cheering and
+general hand-shaking we entered the enclosure.
+
+Here his Excellency the Governor received us with warm congratulations,
+and the City Council presented the address, which was read by the
+chairman, Mr. Glyde. He said:--
+
+"Mr. Forrest,
+
+In the name of the citizens I have the very great pleasure to bid you a
+cordial welcome on your safe return to Perth. We sincerely congratulate
+yourself and party on the success which has attended your adventurous
+expedition overland to Adelaide. It must have been gratifying to you to
+have been selected to lead this expedition, and to follow such explorers
+as Captain Roe, Gregory, Austin, and others, of whom West Australia may
+well be proud. Your expedition, however, has an additional interest from
+the fact that its leader and members were born in the colony. I trust,
+sir, that at no distant date you may have the satisfaction to see the
+advantages realized which the route opened by your expedition is
+calculated to effect."
+
+I had had no reason to expect such a marked official reception, and could
+only express the pleasure I experienced in knowing that the colonists so
+fully appreciated my efforts to carry out successfully the task confided
+to me.
+
+The Governor also offered his congratulations, and three cheers having
+been given the party, and three more for the Governor, we left for our
+quarters highly gratified with the reception. His Excellency gave a large
+dinner-party to celebrate our return, and on Monday, the 24th of October,
+a public demonstration of welcome was afforded by a banquet to which we
+were invited by the citizens. The following is a report from the Perth
+journal:--
+
+COMPLIMENTARY BANQUET TO MR. JOHN FORREST.
+
+On Monday evening last a Complimentary Banquet was given to Mr. Forrest,
+the explorer, at the Horse and Groom tavern. About seventy sat down to
+dinner, among whom were his Excellency the Governor, the Private
+Secretary, the Colonial Secretary, the Surveyor-General, Captain Roe, and
+many of the leading inhabitants of Perth and Fremantle. The chair was
+taken by Captain Roe. On his right was his Excellency the Governor, and
+on his left the guest of the evening--Mr. Forrest. The vice-chair was
+filled by Mr. Landor. After the cloth had been removed, the chairman,
+Captain Roe, rose and proposed the Queen, a lady whom the people could
+not consider without being proud of the sovereign by whom they were
+governed.
+
+The Chairman said he rose to propose another toast, which, he trusted,
+was not always given as a matter of course, but with heartfelt
+satisfaction. It was the health of the Heir Apparent to the Throne.
+(Cheers). The Prince of Wales will, it is hoped, one day fill the throne
+of his illustrious mother--may that day be far distant!--but, when that
+day does arrive, may he display the exemplary virtues of his illustrious
+mother and the sterling qualities that distinguished his great father!
+
+The Chairman, in proposing the next toast, His Excellency the Governor,
+said he had some difficulty in doing so, particularly as the subject of
+it was on his right hand that evening; yet he considered the gratitude of
+the colonists was due to her Majesty's Government for selecting a
+gentleman who was so well qualified to benefit the colony. He believed
+his Excellency was the man to drag the colony out of the hole (cheers);
+and he believed his Excellency was the man to attain for us that
+prosperity we so much desired (hear, hear); but we must do our utmost to
+support him in the effort to secure it. It was impossible for any man to
+perform one hundredth part of what was wanted of him; yet he believed his
+Excellency would do all in his power to benefit the colony in every way.
+Let every one give his Excellency that strenuous support necessary to
+attain prosperity, and we would attain success. He trusted that when the
+term of his Excellency's sojourn amongst us had arrived, he would
+remember with pleasure the days he had spent in Western Australia. The
+toast was drunk with cheers and enthusiasm.
+
+His Excellency the Governor, who was received most cordially, rose to
+thank them for the very kind manner in which they had received the toast
+which had been proposed by the worthy chairman. The chairman was right in
+saying that they might rely upon his doing his best for the benefit of
+the country, but they must not be disappointed; he could not do
+everything, but they might depend upon it he would do what he considered
+right for the people and the colony, without the fear or favour of any.
+But "many men of many minds," as the old school copy says. People thought
+widely different, but he would do his best for the welfare of the colony.
+(Cheers). He did not, however, rise to speak of himself; the toast that
+evening was in honour of Mr. Forrest, and at the present moment, viewing
+the state of Europe, looking at the fact that at this very time two of
+the largest nations in the world are carrying on a deadly strife; that on
+either side deeds of daring have been done, which we all admire, and by
+which we are all fascinated--and why? Because the human mind admired
+daring and enterprise. But war devastated the world--war meant misery,
+destitution, widows, orphans, and destruction, yet we behold all these
+with a species of fascination. But not only in time of war, but at a
+period of peace, are the highest feelings of human nature and the noblest
+instincts of mankind brought out. It was in a spirit of daring, of
+self-sacrifice, of love of fame and science, that induced the gentleman,
+whose health will be duly proposed to you this evening, to undertake the
+task he has so successfully completed. The same motives, no doubt, led
+the warrior into the battle-field, as the explorer into a new and unknown
+country. He, like the warrior, combated dangers regardless to self.
+Peace, then, has triumphs as well as war. Mr. Forrest and his party well
+deserve the triumphs they have secured in their successful journey from
+this colony to Adelaide. The benefits conferred on the colony can best be
+appreciated by those who have the greatest capacity of looking into
+futurity, and as long as Australia has a history, the names of Mr.
+Forrest and his companions will be borne down with honour. To himself it
+will be a source of pleasure to know that the first year of his
+administration will be rendered memorable by the exertion, zeal, and
+enterprise of Mr. Forrest. His Excellency resumed his seat amidst loud
+and continued applause.
+
+Captain Roe said a very pleasing duty now devolved upon him; it was to
+recognize services well done and faithfully performed. It was always
+satisfactory to have our services recognized, and the leader of the
+expedition over a distance of more than 2000 miles, from Perth to
+Adelaide, so successfully, was deserving of esteem. That expedition had
+brought the colony into note, and the good results from it would soon be
+apparent. He personally felt more than he could say on the subject. He
+felt more in his heart than he could express in words. He trusted that
+the success of Forrest and his party would be a solace to him in his
+latest day, and that in their latter days they would look back with pride
+to the energy and pluck they displayed in their younger. He called upon
+them to drink The health and success of Mr. Forrest and his companions
+during life. (Loud and continued cheering.)
+
+Mr. Barlee: One more cheer for the absentees--Mr. Forrest's companions.
+(Immense cheering.)
+
+A Voice: One cheer more for the black fellows. (Applause.)
+
+Mr. Forrest, who was received with enthusiasm, said he felt quite unequal
+to the task of responding to the toast which had been so ably and
+feelingly proposed by Captain Roe, and so kindly received by his
+fellow-colonists. He was extremely gratified to find that his services
+had been so highly appreciated, and were so pleasing to his friends and
+fellow-colonists. He was much flattered at the kind way in which himself
+and his party had been received by his Excellency Governor Fergusson and
+the people of South Australia; but he must say he was much better pleased
+at the reception he received from his Excellency Governor Weld and the
+citizens of Perth on his return. He was sorry he did not see round the
+table his companions of the expedition--some had gone out of town--but he
+must say that during the whole of their long and severe march, oftentimes
+without water, not one refused to do his duty or flinched in the least
+for a single moment. On the part of himself and his companions, he
+sincerely thanked them for the very kind manner in which they had drunk
+their health. (Great applause.)
+
+Mr. Landor rose and said he had a toast to propose--it was the Members of
+the Legislative Council--and in doing so he would like to make a few
+observations upon the old. That evening  they had had the pleasure of
+hearing one of the oldest of the Council, one who had seen more trial and
+suffering than any other, and to whom the grateful task fell that evening
+of introducing to you one who was new in travel; and, while admiring that
+act, he could not but call to mind the hardships that that gentleman had
+endured in former days. In times gone by parties were not so well
+provisioned as they were now, and he remembered the time when Captain
+Roe, short of provisions, discovered a nest of turkey's eggs, and, to his
+consternation, on placing them in the pan found chickens therein. But
+things have altered. Captain Roe belonged to an old Council, and it is of
+the new he proposed speaking. From the new Council great things are
+expected, and of the men who have been selected a good deal might be
+hoped. We all wanted progress. We talked of progress; but progress, like
+the philosopher's stone, could not be easily attained. He hoped and
+believed the gentlemen who had been elected would do their best to try to
+push the colony along. He trusted the gentlemen going into Council would
+not, like the French, get the colony into a hole; but, if they did, he
+trusted they would do their best to get it out of the hole. What the
+colony looked for was, that every man who went into the Council would do
+his duty. He had much pleasure in proposing the new members of Council
+with three times three.
+
+Mr. Carr begged to express his thanks for the very flattering manner in
+which the toast of the new Council had been proposed and seconded. As a
+proof of the confidence reposed in them by their constituents, he could
+assure them that they would faithfully discharge their duties to them in
+Parliament, and work for the good of the colony generally. (Cheers.)
+Again thanking them for the honour done the members of the new Council,
+Mr. Carr resumed his seat amidst great applause.
+
+Mr. Leake (who, on rising, was supposed to follow Mr. Carr) said his
+rising was not important. As the next toast fell to his lot, he would ask
+them to charge their glasses. The toast that was placed in his hands was
+to propose the health of his friend, Mr. Barlee, the Colonial Secretary.
+He trusted they would join him in giving Mr. Barlee a hearty welcome
+after his travels in foreign parts. Mr. Barlee started on his journey
+with the approval of the entire colony, and that the acts of the
+Government had always the approval of the colonists was more than could
+be said at all times. (Laughter.) Mr. Barlee's visit to the other
+colonies must have been beneficial, and he trusted Mr. Barlee would that
+evening give them his experience of the other colonies. We have not had
+an opportunity of hearing of Mr. Barlee, or what he has done since he was
+in Adelaide. In Adelaide Sir J. Morphett, the Speaker of the House of
+Assembly, had said that Mr. Barlee was a hard-working man, and that was a
+good deal to say for a man in this part of the world. (Loud laughter.)
+Mr. Barlee, no doubt, would that evening give them a history of his
+travels, and tell them what he had done in Adelaide, Melbourne, and
+Sydney. Mr. Barlee was a proven friend of the colonists and of West
+Australia. He would ask them to join him in drinking the health of Mr.
+Barlee with three hearty cheers. (Drunk with enthusiasm.)
+
+Mr. Barlee, who on rising was received with unbounded applause, said it
+would be impossible for him to conceal the fact that he was much pleased
+at the hearty manner in which his health had been proposed and received
+that evening. He did not require to leave the colony to know the good
+feeling of his fellow-colonists for him, nor to acquire testimony as to
+his quality as a public officer. There was one matter, however, he very
+much regretted, and that was that he was not present at the ovation given
+by the people of South Australia to Mr. Forrest and his party. Mr.
+Forrest had passed through Adelaide one day before his arrival. Mr.
+Forrest and his party had attracted attention not only in South
+Australia, but also, as he found, in all the other Australian colonies.
+Having done so much, we were expected to do more in the way of opening up
+the large tract of country that had been discovered. It was our duty to
+assure the other colonies that the country would carry stock, and stock
+would be forthcoming. If Mr. Forrest in former days established his fame
+as an explorer, his late expedition only proves that he must commence de
+novo. Of the modesty and bearing of Mr. Forrest and his party in South
+Australia he could not speak too highly. There was, however, one
+exception, and that was his friend Windich (native). He was the man who
+had done everything; he was the man who had brought Mr. Forrest to
+Adelaide, and not Mr. Forrest him. He (Mr. Barlee) was in his estimation
+below par to come by a steamer, and he walked across (laughter); and it
+was an act of condescension that Windich even looked upon him. (Great
+laughter.) He was quite aware Mr. Leake, in asking him to give an account
+of his travels in foreign parts, never seriously intended it. If he did,
+he would only keep them until to-morrow morning. He would say that his
+was a trip of business, and not pleasure, and hard work he had. Morning
+and night was he at work, and he trusted he would be spared to see the
+results of some of his efforts to benefit West Australia. (Loud cheers.)
+He considered, what with our lead and copper-mines, our Jarrah
+coal-mines, and the prospect of an auriferous country being found, a new
+era was dawning on the colony. (Cheers.) For the first time in the last
+sixteen years he had the pleasure of drinking that evening the health of
+the members of the Legislative Assembly. He was not yet a member of that
+Council, but it was probable he would be a member, and have important
+duties to discharge therein. He was proud to learn the quiet and orderly
+manner in which the elections had been conducted, and the good feeling
+and harmony that existed on all sides, and to learn that the defeated
+candidates were the first to congratulate the successful ones on their
+nomination. He sincerely trusted that the same quiet good feeling and
+harmony would remain and guide the Council in their deliberations
+hereafter.
+
+Other complimentary toasts having been duly honoured, the company broke
+up.
+
+
+While the citizens of Perth were thus exhibiting encouraging approval of
+our exertions, official recognition, in a practical form, was not
+wanting. On the 6th of October, Captain Roe forwarded to me the following
+communication:--
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Perth,
+
+6th October, 1870.
+
+Sir,
+
+Having submitted to the Governor your report of the safe return to
+head-quarters of the overland expedition to Eucla and Adelaide, entrusted
+to your leadership, I have much pleasure in forwarding to you a copy of a
+minute in which his Excellency has been pleased to convey his full
+appreciation of your proceedings, and of the judgment and perseverance
+displayed in your successful conduct of the enterprise.
+
+In these sentiments I cordially participate, and, in accordance with the
+wish expressed in the minute, I beg you will convey to the other members
+of the expedition the thanks of his Excellency for their co-operation and
+general conduct.
+
+OFFICIAL REWARDS.
+
+As a further recognition of the services of the party, his Excellency has
+been pleased to direct that the sum of Two Hundred Pounds be distributed
+amongst them, in the following proportions, payable at the Treasury,
+namely:--
+
+To the Leader of the expedition...75 pounds.
+
+To the Second in command...50 pounds.
+
+To H. McLarty and R. Osborne, 25 pounds each...50 pounds.
+
+To the Aborigines, Windich and Billy, 12 pounds 10 shillings....25
+pounds.
+
+Total 200 pounds.
+
+I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
+
+J.S. ROE, Surveyor-General.
+
+John Forrest, Esquire,
+
+Leader of Expedition, etc., etc.
+
+The following is the minute referred to in the above:--
+
+HONOURABLE SURVEYOR-GENERAL,
+
+I beg that you will convey to Mr. John Forrest, leader of the Eucla
+expedition, the expression of my appreciation of the zeal, judgment, and
+perseverance which he has displayed in the successful conduct of the
+enterprise committed to his charge. Great credit is also due to the
+second in command, and to every member of the party. All have done their
+duty well, and to them also I desire to render my thanks.
+
+It is with much pleasure that, with the advice of my Executive Council, I
+authorize a gratuity of 200 pounds, to be divided in the proportions you
+have submitted to me.
+
+(Signed) FRED. A. WELD.
+
+1st October, 1870.
+
+It will be remembered that the York Agricultural Society had previously
+proposed an overland expedition, but had not succeeded in obtaining
+official sanction, it being then believed that Eucla could be best
+approached from the sea. After my return the Society held a meeting, at
+which his Excellency the Governor was present, when my report of the
+expedition was received with every mark of approval of my labours.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+THIRD EXPEDITION. FROM THE WEST COAST TO THE TELEGRAPH LINE.
+
+Proposal to undertake a New Expedition.
+Endeavour to explore the Watershed of the Murchison.
+Expeditions by South Australian Explorers.
+My Journal.
+Fight with the Natives.
+Finding traces of Mr. Gosse's Party.
+The Telegraph Line reached.
+Arrival at Perth Station.
+
+The success which had attended my previous expeditions, and the great
+encouragement received from the Government and public of each colony,
+made me wish to undertake another journey for the purpose of ascertaining
+whether a route from Western Australia to the advanced settlements of the
+Southern colony was practicable. I also hoped to contribute, if possible,
+towards the solution of the problem, What is the nature of the interior?
+My first journey, when I succeeded in penetrating for about 600 miles
+into the unknown desert of Central Australia, had convinced me that,
+although there might, and doubtless would, be considerable difficulties
+to be encountered, there were no insuperable obstacles except a probable
+failure in the supply of water. That certainly was the most formidable of
+all the difficulties that would no doubt have to be encountered; but on
+the previous journey the scarcity of water had been endured, not without
+privation and suffering, but without any very serious result. At any
+rate, the expedition I desired to undertake appeared to be of an
+extremely interesting character. It might contribute to the knowledge of
+an immense tract of country of which hardly anything was known; it might
+also be the means of opening up new districts, and attaining results of
+immense importance to the colonies. Perhaps, too, I was animated by a
+spirit of adventure--not altogether inexcusable--and, having been
+successful in my previous journeys, was not unnaturally desirous of
+carrying on the work of exploration.
+
+A NEW EXPEDITION PROPOSED.
+
+In 1871 an expedition went out to the eastward of Perth under command of
+my brother, Mr. A. Forrest, in search of fresh pastoral country. It was a
+very good season, but the expedition was too late in starting. It
+succeeded in reaching latitude 31 degrees South, longitude 123 degrees 37
+minutes East, and afterwards struck South-South-East towards the coast;
+then, with considerable difficulty, it reached Mount Ragged and the
+Thomas River, and, continuing westerly, got as far as Esperance Bay, the
+homestead of the Messrs. Dempster. This expedition discovered a
+considerable tract of good country, some of which has been taken up and
+stocked. It was equipped on very economical principles, and did not cost
+more than 300 pounds.
+
+The leader had been previously with me as second in command on the
+journey to Adelaide in 1870, and afterwards accompanied me in 1874 from
+the west coast through the centre of the western part of Australia to the
+telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin.
+
+He received great credit from the Government for the energy and
+perseverance displayed on this expedition--a character borne out by
+future services as second in command with me.
+
+In July, 1872, I addressed the following letter to the Honourable Malcolm
+Fraser, the Surveyor-General:--
+
+Western Australia, Perth,
+
+July 12th, 1872.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have the honour to lay before you, for the consideration of his
+Excellency the Governor, a project I have in view for the further
+exploration of Western Australia.
+
+My wish is to undertake an expedition, to start early next year from
+Champion Bay, follow the Murchison to its source, and then continue in an
+east and north-east direction to the telegraph line now nearly completed
+between Adelaide and Port Darwin; after this we would either proceed
+north to Port Darwin or south to Adelaide.
+
+The party would consist of four white and two black men, with twenty
+horses, well armed and provisioned for at least six months.
+
+The total cost of the expedition would be about 600 pounds, of which sum
+I hope to be able to raise, by subscriptions, about 200 pounds.
+
+The horses will be furnished by the settlers, many having already been
+promised me.
+
+The geographical results of such an expedition would necessarily be very
+great; it would be the finishing stroke of Australian discovery; would be
+sure to open new pastoral country; and, if we are to place any weight in
+the opinions of geographers (among whom I may mention the Reverend
+Tenison Woods), the existence of a large river running inland from the
+watershed of the Murchison is nearly certain.
+
+Referring to the map of Australia you will observe that the proposed
+route is a very gigantic, hazardous, and long one; but, after careful
+consideration, I have every confidence that, should I be allowed to
+undertake it, there are reasonable hopes of my being able to succeed.
+
+Minor details are purposely omitted; but, should his Excellency
+favourably entertain this proposition, I will be too glad, as far as I am
+able, to give further information on the subject.
+
+Trusting you will be able to concur in the foregoing suggestions.
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+JOHN FORREST.
+
+To this letter the Governor appended the following memorandum:--
+
+Mr. J. Forrest, in a most public spirited manner, proposes to embark in
+an undertaking, the dangers of which, though not by any means
+inconsiderable, would be outweighed by the advantages which might accrue
+to this colony, and which would certainly result in a great extension of
+our geographical knowledge. Should he succeed in this journey, his name
+will fitly go down to posterity as that of the man who solved the last
+remaining problem in the Australian continent; and, whatever may come
+after him, he will have been the last (and certainly, when the means at
+his disposal and the difficulties of the undertaking are considered, by
+no means the least) of the great Australian explorers.
+
+The honour to be gained by him, and most of the advantages, will
+ultimately fall to this colony, which is his birth-place; and for my own
+part I shall be very proud that such a design should be carried out
+during my term of office. I wish that the means of the colony were
+sufficient to warrant the Government in proposing to defray the entire
+cost of the expedition, and I think it would be a disgrace to the colony
+if it did not at least afford some aid from public funds.
+
+These papers will be laid before the Legislature, and the Government will
+support a vote in aid, should the Legislature concur.
+
+FRED. A. WELD.
+
+July 20th, 1872.
+
+This memorandum showed that his Excellency thoroughly sympathized with my
+reason for desiring to undertake the expedition. The proposition,
+supported by official approval, was acceded to by the Legislative
+Council, which voted the 400 pounds stated to be required in addition to
+the 200 pounds which I hoped to be able to raise by subscription.
+
+Just at this time, however, South Australia was making great efforts to
+solve the problem I had undertaken to attempt, preparations being made
+for the departure of three expeditions. Stuart's great feat of crossing
+the continent from south to north had been followed by other successful
+efforts in the same direction. Another result was the establishing a line
+of telegraph from Adelaide to Port Darwin. This might therefore be
+considered the eastern boundary of the unknown districts, and moreover
+was the point of departure for the South Australian expeditions in a
+westerly direction. It was also the limit I desired to reach, and,
+reaching it, I should achieve the object I had so much at heart. Of the
+South Australian expeditions, only one was successful in getting to the
+western colony, and that one, led by Colonel Warburton, involved much
+suffering and was comparatively barren of practical results. Besides, as
+we afterwards knew, the route selected by him was so far to the north as
+not to interfere with my project.
+
+The following letter to me expresses the official estimate of the result
+of Colonel Warburton's expedition:--
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Perth,
+
+March 27th, 1874.
+
+The gist of the information I have from Colonel Warburton may be summed
+up in a few words. From the MacDermot Ranges in South Australia to the
+head of the Oakoon River (about 150 miles from the coast), keeping
+between the parallels of 20 and 22 degrees south latitude, he traversed a
+sterile country, in which he states horses could not possibly exist--they
+would starve, as they could not live on the stunted scrub and herbage
+which the camels managed to keep alive on.
+
+The general character of the country seen was that of a high, waterless,
+slightly undulating, sandy table-land, with in some parts sand deserts in
+ridges most harassing to traverse. There was nothing visible in the way
+of water courses in which water could be retained; but they were
+successful in finding, at long distances, sufficient to maintain
+themselves and their camels as they fled, as it were for their lives,
+westward over the Sahara, which appears to be in a great part a desolate
+wilderness, devoid of life, or of anything life sustaining. Though this
+is a grim picture put before you, yet I would not have you daunted. Your
+task is a different one, and one which all the colony is looking forward
+to see successfully completed by you.
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+(Signed) MALCOLM FRASER, Surveyor-General.
+
+Governor Weld, however, decided that it might be better to postpone my
+expedition, as it would not be advisable to appear to enter into
+competition with the other colony; besides which it might be of
+considerable advantage to wait and avail ourselves of the results of any
+discoveries that might be made by the South Australian explorers. Another
+reason for delay was that I was required to conduct a survey of
+considerable importance, which it was desirable should be completed
+before undertaking the new expedition.
+
+It may assist my readers to understand the references in the latter part
+of my Journal if I state that in April, 1873, Mr. Gosse, one of the South
+Australian explorers, quitted the telegraph line about forty miles south
+of Mount Stuart; that the farthest point in a westerly direction reached
+by him was in longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes East; and that Mr. Giles,
+a Victorian explorer, had reached longitude 125 degrees, but had been
+unable to penetrate farther.
+
+Some records of these expeditions, and a copy of the chart made by Mr.
+Gosse, were in my possession, when at length, in March, 1874, I set to
+work on the preliminary arrangements for the expedition. Before leaving
+Perth I received from the Surveyor-General the following outline of
+instructions for my general guidance:--
+
+OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+Western Australia, Surveyor-General's Office,
+
+Perth, 17th March, 1874.
+
+SIR,
+
+The arrangements connected with the party organized for the purpose of
+proceeding on an exploratory expedition to the north-eastern division of
+this territory having now been completed, I am directed to instruct and
+advise you generally in the objects and the intention of the Government
+in regard to it.
+
+The chief object of the expedition is to obtain information concerning
+the immense tract of country from which flow the Murchison, Gascoigne,
+Ashburton, DeGrey, Fitzroy, and other rivers falling into the sea on the
+western and northern shores of this territory, as there are many good and
+reasonable grounds for a belief that those rivers outflow from districts
+neither barren nor badly watered.
+
+Mr. A.C. Gregory, coming from the northwards by Sturt's Creek, discovered
+the Denison Plains, and it may be that from the head of the Murchison
+River going northwards there are to be found, near the heads of the
+rivers above alluded to, many such grassy oases; and, looking at the
+success which has already attended the stocking of the country to the
+eastward of Champion Bay, and between the heads of the Greenough River
+and Murchison, it will be most fortunate for our sheep farmers if you
+discover any considerable addition to the present known pasture grounds
+of the colony; and by this means no doubt the mineral resources of the
+interior will be brought eventually to light. Every opinion of value that
+has been given on the subject tells one that the head of the Murchison
+lies in a district which may prove another land of Ophir.
+
+In tracing up this river from Mount Gould to its source, and in tracing
+other rivers to and from their head waters, detours must be made, but
+generally your course will be north-east until you are within the
+tropics; it will then be discretionary with you to decide on your route,
+of which there is certainly a choice of three, besides the retracing of
+your steps for the purpose, perhaps, of making a further inspection of
+the good country you may have found.
+
+Firstly, There is to choose whether you will go westward, and fall back
+on the settlements at Nicol Bay or the De Grey River, on the north-west
+coast.
+
+Secondly, To consider whether you might advantageously push up Sturt's
+Creek, keeping to the westward of Gregory's track.
+
+Thirdly, To decide whether or not you will go eastward to the South
+Australian telegraph line.
+
+Possibly this latter course may be the most desirable and most feasible
+to accomplish, as the telegraph stations, taking either Watson's Creek or
+Daly Waters, are not more than 300 miles from the known water supply on
+Sturt's Creek, and, supposing you do this successfully, the remaining
+distance down the telegraph line to Port Darwin is a mere bagatelle,
+provided an arrangement can be made with the South Australian Government
+to have a supply of provisions at Daly Waters.
+
+In the event of your going to Port Darwin, the plan probably will be to
+sell your equipment and horses, returning with your party by sea, but in
+this and in other matters of detail there is no desire to fetter you, or
+to prevent the proper use of your judgment, as I am fully aware that your
+sole object is in common with that of the Government--the carrying to a
+satisfactory result the work to be done.
+
+I hope that before you individually leave we shall have the pleasure of
+welcoming Colonel Warburton, and I have no doubt will be able to obtain
+some valuable information from him.
+
+Having now dwelt generally on the objects of the expedition, I will go
+more into details.
+
+Your party will consist of yourself as leader, Mr. Alexander Forrest as
+surveyor and second in command, James Sweeney (farrier), police-constable
+James Kennedy, and two natives, Tommy Windich and Tommy Pierre, making
+six in number and twenty horses. The party will be well armed; but by
+every means in your power you will endeavour to cultivate and keep on
+friendly relations with all the aborigines you may fall in with, and
+avoid, if possible, any collision with them.
+
+The provisions and other supplies already arranged for are calculated to
+serve the party for eight months. The expedition will start from Champion
+Bay, to which you will at once despatch by sea the stores to be obtained
+here; and the men and horses should proceed overland without delay. You
+will be probably able to charter carts or drays to take most of your
+impedimenta from Geraldton to Mr. Burges's farthest out-station on the
+Murchison; this will save you 200 miles of packing, and husband the
+strength of your horses for that distance.
+
+Having the assistance of Mr. Alexander Forrest as surveyor to the party,
+you will do as much reconnaissance work in connexion with the colonial
+survey as it may be possible; and also, by taking celestial observations
+at all convenient times, and by sketching the natural features of the
+country you pass over, add much to our geographical knowledge. All
+geological and natural history specimens you can collect and preserve
+will be most valuable in perfecting information concerning the physical
+formation of the interior.
+
+You will be good enough to get the agreement, forwarded with this, signed
+by the whole of the party.
+
+I am, etc.,
+
+MALCOLM FRASER,
+
+Surveyor-General.
+
+DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+On the 18th of March, 1874, the expedition quitted Perth. Colonel
+Harvest, the Acting-Governor, wished us a hearty God-speed, which was
+warmly echoed by our friends and the public generally. The
+Surveyor-General and a party accompanied us for some distance along the
+road. Ten days afterwards we reached Champion Bay, where we intended to
+remain for three days, having settled to commence our journey on the 1st
+of April. We had enough to do in preparing stores, shoeing horses, and
+starting a team with our heaviest baggage to a spot about fifty miles
+inland. On the 31st March we were entertained at dinner by Mr. Crowther
+(Member of the Legislative Council for the district) at the Geraldton
+Hotel. It was from that point we considered the expedition really
+commenced, and my Journal will show that we numbered our camps from that
+place. Our final start was not effected without some trouble. The horses,
+happily ignorant of the troubles which awaited them, were fresh and
+lively, kicking, plunging, and running away, so that it was noon before
+we were fairly on the move. Our first day's journey brought us to a place
+named Knockbrack, the hospitable residence of Mr. Thomas Burges, where we
+remained two days, the 3rd being Good Friday. On the 4th we were again on
+our way--a party of friends, Messrs. E. and F. Wittenoom, Mr. Lacy, and
+others, accompanying us as far as Allen Nolba. We camped that night at a
+well known as Wandanoe, where, however, there was scarcely any feed for
+the horses, who appeared very dissatisfied with their entertainment, for
+they wandered away, and several hours were spent on the following morning
+in getting them together.
+
+Our route lay by way of Kolonaday, North Spring, Tinderlong, and Bilyera
+to Yuin, Mr. Burges's principal station, which we reached on the 9th, and
+remained until Monday the 13th. Then we started on a route
+east-north-east, and camped that night at a rock water-hole called
+Beetinggnow, where we found good feed and water. My brother and Kennedy
+went on in advance to Poondarrie, to dig water-holes, and we rejoined
+them there on the 14th. This place is situated in latitude 27 degrees 48
+minutes 39 seconds South, and longitude 116 degrees 16 minutes 11 seconds
+East.
+
+On the following day we were very busy packing up the rations, for I had
+arranged to send back the cart, gone on in advance. We had eight months'
+provisions, besides general baggage, and I certainly experienced some
+difficulty in arranging how to carry such a tremendously heavy load, even
+with the aid of eighteen pack-horses, and a dozen natives who accompanied
+us. I intended to start on the 16th, but one of the horses was missing,
+and, although Pierre and I tracked him for five miles, we were compelled
+to give up the search for that night, as darkness came on, and return to
+camp. On the following day, however, we followed up the tracks, and
+caught the horse after a chase of twenty miles. He had started on the
+return journey, and was only a mile from Yuin when we overtook him.
+
+CAMELS AND HORSES IN THE DESERT.
+
+By half-past nine on the morning of the 18th we had made a fair start.
+The day was intensely hot, and as we had only three riding-horses, half
+of the party were compelled to walk. We travelled in a north-easterly
+direction for eleven miles, and reached a spring called Wallala, which we
+dug out, and so obtained sufficient water for our horses. I may mention
+here that Colonel Warburton and other explorers who endeavoured to cross
+the great inland desert from the east had the advantage of being provided
+with camels--a very great advantage indeed in a country where the water
+supply is so scanty and uncertain as in Central Australia. As we
+ascertained by painful experience, a horse requires water at least once
+in twelve hours, and suffers greatly if that period of abstinence is
+exceeded. A camel, however, will go for ten or twelve days without drink,
+without being much distressed. This fact should be remembered, because
+the necessity of obtaining water for the horses entailed upon us many
+wearying deviations from the main route and frequent disappointments,
+besides great privation and inconvenience to man and beast.
+
+The 19th was Sunday, and, according to practice, we rested. Every Sunday
+throughout the journey I read Divine Service, and, except making the
+daily observations, only work absolutely necessary was done. Whenever
+possible, we rested on Sunday, taking, if we could, a pigeon, a parrot,
+or such other game as might come in our way as special fare. Sunday's
+dinner was an institution for which, even in those inhospitable wilds, we
+had a great respect. This day, the 19th, ascertained, by meridian
+altitude of the sun, that we were in latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes 6
+seconds South. We had several pigeons and parrots, which, unfortunately
+for them, but most fortunately for us, had come within range of our guns.
+While thus resting, Police constable Haydon arrived from Champion Bay,
+bringing letters and a thermometer (broken on the journey), also a
+barometer. When he left we bade good-bye to the last white man we were
+destined to see for nearly six months.
+
+After the usual difficulty with the horses, which had again wandered, we
+started on Monday, the 20th, at half-past ten, and steering about 30
+degrees East of north for seven miles, came to a spring called Bullardo,
+and seven miles farther we camped at Warrorang, where there was scarcely
+any water or feed. We were now in latitude 27 degrees 33 minutes 21
+seconds South, Cheangwa Hill being North 340 degrees East magnetic.
+
+I now take up the narrative in the words of my Journal, which will show
+the reason for ultimately adopting the third of the routes which the
+letter of instructions left to my discretion.
+
+April 21st.
+Continued on North 340 degrees East to Cheangwa Hill four miles; thence
+northerly, passing Koonbun, and on to a place called Pingie, on the
+Sandford River. From camp to Pingie, Barloweery Peaks bore North 322
+degrees East magnetic, Cheangwa Hill North 207 degrees East, latitude 27
+degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds. Found water by digging. Rather warm;
+barometer rising. Clear flats along water-courses; otherwise dense
+thickets.
+
+THE MURCHISON RIVER.
+
+22nd.
+Continued northerly; at twelve miles crossed the dividing range between
+the Sandford and other creeks flowing into the Murchison. Camped at a
+granite hill called Bia, with a fine spring on its north side. Got a view
+of Mount Murchison, which bore North 7 degrees East magnetic from camp.
+Fine grassy granite country for the first eight miles to-day. Splendid
+feed at this camp. Travelled about fifteen miles. Latitude by meridian
+altitude of Regulus 27 degrees 7 minutes South. Walking in turns every
+day.
+
+23rd.
+Steering a little west of north over level country for six miles, with a
+few water-courses with white gums in them, we came into granite country
+with bare hills in every direction. Kept on till we came to a brook with
+pools of fresh water, where we camped about one mile from the Murchison
+River. Latitude 26 degrees 52 minutes 38 seconds, Mount Murchison bearing
+North 50 degrees East. Went with Pierre to a peak of granite North 50
+degrees East, about one mile and a half from camp, from which I took a
+round of angles and bearings. Travelled about eighteen miles to-day.
+
+24th.
+At one mile reached the Murchison River, and followed along up it. Fine
+grassy flats, good loamy soil, with white gums in bed and on flats.
+Travelled about fourteen miles, and camped. Rather brackish water in the
+pools. Latitude of camp 26 degrees 42 minutes 43 seconds by Regulus. Shot
+seven ducks and eight cockatoos. Saw several kangaroos and emus. Rain
+much required. Mount Murchison bears from camp North 122 degrees East,
+and Mount Narryer North 14 degrees East magnetic.
+
+25th.
+Continued up river for about nine miles, and camped at a fine spring in
+the bed of river, of fresh water, which I named Elizabeth Spring; it is
+surrounded by salt water, and is quite fresh. Mount Narryer bore from
+camp North 4 degrees East magnetic, and Mount Murchison North 168 degrees
+30 minutes East magnetic. Windich shot an emu, and some ducks were also
+shot. Fine grassy country along river; white gums in flats; large salt
+pools. Very hot weather; thermometer 90 degrees in pack-saddle.
+
+26th (Sunday).
+Did not travel to-day. Plotted up track and took observations for time
+and longitude. Barometer 29.18; thermometer 83 degrees at 6 p.m. Latitude
+of camp 26 degrees 35 minutes 8 seconds South by Regulus.
+
+27th.
+Travelled up river for about sixteen miles; camped at a fine fresh pool
+in latitude 26 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds South, Mount Narryer bearing
+North 238 degrees East, and Mount Dugel North 334 degrees East magnetic.
+Fine grassy country along river. Shot six ducks; great numbers were in
+the river, also white cockatoos. Very warm mid-day; cloudy in evening.
+Marked a tree F on the right bank of river.
+
+A SOLITARY CAMP OUT.
+
+28th.
+Followed up the river. Fine pools for the first six miles, with numbers
+of ducks in them. After travelling about twenty miles we lost the river
+from keeping too far to the east, and following branches instead of the
+main branch--in fact, the river spreads out over beautifully-grassed
+plains for many miles. Fearing we should be without water, I pushed
+ahead, and after following a flat for about six miles, got to the main
+river, where there were large pools of brackish water. As it was getting
+late, returned in all haste, but could not find the party, they having
+struck westward. I got on the tracks after dark, and, after following
+them two miles, had to give it up and camp for the night, tying up my
+horse alongside. Neither food nor water, and no rug.
+
+29th.
+I anxiously awaited daylight, and then followed on the tracks and
+overtook the party, encamped on the main branch of the river, with
+abundance of brackish water in the pools. Shot several cockatoos. From
+camp Mount Narryer bore North 211 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and
+Mount Dugel 225 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic. Camp is in latitude 26
+degrees 6 minutes 12 seconds. Marked a tree with the letter F on right
+bank of river.
+
+30th.
+Two of the horses could not be found till half-past twelve. After this we
+continued up the river over well-grassed country for about ten miles.
+Camped at a small pool of fresh water, in latitude 26 degrees 2 minutes
+52 seconds, which we luckily found by tracking up natives. Large pools of
+salt water in river. Three walking and three riding every day. Set watch
+to-night, two hours each.
+
+May 1st.
+Followed up river, keeping a little to the south of it for about fifteen
+miles. We camped on a splendid grassy flat, with a fine large pool of
+fresh water in it. Shot several ducks. This is the best camp we have
+had---plenty of grass and water--and I was very rejoiced to find the
+month commence so auspiciously. Barometer 29.10; thermometer 78 degrees
+at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 52 seconds South. Sighted
+Mount Gould, which bore North 58 degrees East magnetic. Marked a white
+gum-tree F 20, being 20th camp from Geraldton.
+
+MEETING NATIVES.
+
+2nd.
+Steered straight for Mount Gould, North 58 degrees East, for sixteen
+miles, when I found I had made an error, and that we had unknowingly
+crossed the river this morning. After examining the chart, I steered
+South-East towards Mount Hale and, striking the river, we followed along
+it a short distance and camped at some brackish water, Mount Hale bearing
+North 178 degrees East, and Mount Gould North 28 degrees East. Barometer
+28.96; thermometer 77 degrees at 5.30 p.m. As Pierre was walking along,
+he suddenly turned round and saw four or five natives following. Being
+rather surprised, he frightened them by roughly saying, "What the devil
+you want here?" when they quickly made off. Windich and I then tried to
+speak to them, but could not find them. Latitude 25 degrees 57 minutes 32
+seconds South; longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes East.
+
+3rd (Sunday).
+Went to summit of Mount Hale in company with Pierre, and after an hour's
+hard work reached it. It was very rough and difficult to ascend. The
+rocks were very magnetic; the view was extensive; indeed, the whole
+country was an extended plain. To the east, plains for at least thirty
+miles, when broken ranges were visible. Mount Gould to the
+North-North-East showed very remarkably. Mount Narryer range was visible.
+To the south, only one hill or range could be seen, while to the
+South-East broken ranges of granite were seen about thirty miles distant.
+Mount Hale is very lofty and rugged, and is composed of micaceous iron
+ore, with brown hematite; being magnetic, the compass was rendered
+useless. Returned about one o'clock. Windich and the others had been out
+searching for fresh water, and the former had seen three natives and had
+a talk with them. They did not appear frightened, but he could not make
+anything out of them. They found some good water. Barometer, at 6.30
+p.m., 28.88; thermometer 76 degrees. Took observations for time and
+longitude. We are much in want of rain, and thought we should have had
+some, but the barometer is rising this evening. To-morrow we enter on
+country entirely unknown.
+
+4th.
+Started at nine o'clock, and, travelling North-East for three miles, came
+to junction of river from Mount Gould, when we got some fresh water, also
+met two natives who were friendly, and they accompanied us. We took the
+south or main branch of river, and, steering a little south of east for
+about nine miles, over splendidly-grassed country, we camped on a small
+pool of fresh water on one of the courses of the river, Mount Gould
+bearing North 334 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and Mount Hale North
+228 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic. Barometer 28.90; thermometer 76
+degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 54 minutes 37 seconds by Regulus.
+Marked a tree F 22, being 22nd camp from Geraldton.
+
+LOFTY RANGES.
+
+5th.
+We travelled up easterly along the river, which spreads out and has
+several channels, sometimes running for miles separately, then joining
+again. There were many fine fresh pools for the first four miles, after
+which they were all salt, and the river divided into so many channels
+that it was difficult to know the main river. After travelling about
+sixteen miles over fine grassy plains and flats, we were joined by seven
+natives, who had returned with the two who had left us this morning. They
+told us that there was no fresh water on the branch we were following,
+and we therefore followed them North 30 degrees East for seven miles
+(leaving the river to the southward), when they brought us to a small
+pool in a brook, where we camped, Mount Gould bearing North 285 degrees
+30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Hale North 250 degrees East magnetic.
+Latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes from mean of two observations. Barometer
+28.78; thermometer 77 degrees at 6 P.M.
+
+6th.
+Three of the natives accompanied us to-day. We travelled east for six
+miles, when I ascended a rise and could see a river to the north and
+south; the one to the north the natives say has fresh water. As the
+natives say there is plenty of water ahead, North 70 degrees East, we
+continued onwards to a hill, which I named Mount Maitland. After about
+twenty miles we reached it, but found the spring to be bad, and after
+digging no water came. For our relief I tied up the horses for some time
+before letting them go. Ascending the hill close to the camp, I saw a
+very extensive range, and took a fine round of angles. The compass is
+useless on these hills, as they are composed of micaceous iron ore, with
+brown hematite, which is very magnetic. To the east a line of high,
+remarkable ranges extend, running eastwards, which I have named the
+Robinson Range, after his Excellency Governor Robinson. One of the
+highest points I named Mount Fraser, after the Honourable Commissioner of
+Crown Lands, from whom I received much assistance and consideration, and
+who has aided the expedition in every possible way; the other highest
+point, Mount Padbury, after Mr. W. Padbury, a contributor to the
+Expedition Fund. The river could be traced for thirty miles by the line
+of white gums, while to the south long lines of white gums could also be
+seen. I am not sure which is the main branch, but I intend following the
+one to the north, as it looks the largest and the natives say it has
+fresh water. Barometer 28.45; thermometer 69 degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude
+25 degrees 46 minutes South. The last thirty-five miles over fine grassy
+plains, well adapted for sheep-runs; and water could, I think, be easily
+procured by digging, as well as from the river.
+
+7th.
+The three natives ran away this morning, or at least left us without
+asking leave. We had to keep watch all last night over the horses to keep
+them from rambling. Got an early start, and steering North 70 degrees
+East for about twelve miles, we reached the river, and camped at a fresh
+pool of splendid water. This is a fine large branch; it is fresh, and I
+believe, if not the main, is one of the largest branches. The country is
+now more undulating and splendidly grassed, and would carry sheep well.
+The whole bed of the river, or valley, is admirably adapted for pastoral
+purposes, and will no doubt ere long be stocked. Latitude 25 degrees 42
+minutes 12 seconds South, and longitude about 118 degrees 9 minutes East.
+Barometer 28.57; thermometer 75 degrees at 5.30 p.m. Marked a white gum
+on right bank of river F 25, being the 25th camp from Champion Bay.
+
+8th.
+Continued up the river for about fifteen miles, the stream gradually
+getting smaller, many small creeks coming into it; wide bed and flat.
+Fine grassy country on each side, and some permanent pools in river.
+Camped at a small pool of fresh water, and rode up to a low ridge to the
+North-East, from which I got a fine view to the eastward. I do not think
+the river we are following goes much farther; low ranges and a few hills
+alone visible. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 70 degrees at 6 o'clock p.m.;
+latitude 25 degrees 47 minutes 53 seconds by meridian altitude of
+Jupiter.
+
+9th.
+Continued along river, which is gradually getting smaller, for about
+thirteen miles over most beautiful grassy country, the best we have seen.
+White gums along bed. I believe the river does not go more than twenty
+miles from here, it being now very small. Found a nice pool of water and
+camped. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 68 degrees at half-past five
+o'clock.
+
+THE DRY SEASON.
+
+10th (Sunday).
+Went with Windich south about eight miles to a low range, which I rightly
+anticipated would be a watershed. Could see a long line of white gums;
+believe there may be a river to the south, or it may be the salt branch
+of the Murchison. Returned to camp at two o'clock; plotted up track.
+Barometer 28.52; thermometer 69 degrees at 6 p.m. Mount Fraser bears
+North 328 degrees East magnetic from camp, which is in latitude 25
+degrees 51 minutes 46 seconds, longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes
+East. The country is very dry indeed; in fact, we could not be more
+unfortunate in the season thus far. I only trust we may be blessed with
+abundance of rain shortly, otherwise we shall not be able to move
+onwards.
+
+11th.
+Continued up river, which is getting very small, over beautifully-grassed
+country, and at seven miles came to a fine flat and splendid pool of
+permanent water. Although a delightful spot, I did not halt, as we had
+come such a short distance. Here we met six native women, who were very
+frightened at first, but soon found sufficient confidence to talk and to
+tell us there was plenty of water ahead. As they always say this, I do
+not put any faith in it. We continued on about east for eight miles to a
+high flat-topped hill, when we got a view of the country ahead and turned
+about North-East towards some flats, and at about eight miles camped on a
+grassy plain, with some small clay-pans of water. Splendid feeding
+country all along this valley--I may say for the last 100 miles. Heard a
+number of natives cooeying above our camp, but did not see them.
+Barometer 28.37; thermometer 68 degrees at six o'clock p.m.; latitude 25
+degrees 51 minutes South by meridian altitude of Jupiter.
+
+12th.
+Started East-North-East for four miles, then north three miles to the
+range, where we searched over an hour for water without success. We then
+travelled South-East for five miles and south one mile and a half to a
+water-hole in a brook, by digging out which we got abundance of water.
+About a quarter of a mile farther down the brook found a large pool of
+water and shot six ducks. As soon as we unloaded, it commenced to rain,
+and kept on steadily till midnight. I am indeed pleased to get this rain
+at last, as the country is very dry. Splendid open feeding country all
+to-day, and the camp is a beautifully-grassed spot. Marked a white
+gum-tree F 29, close to the pool or spring on the right bank of this
+brook.
+
+GLENGARRY RANGE.
+
+13th.
+Continued on, steering about south-east, as the flat we have been
+following the last week is now nearly at an end. Afterwards determined to
+bear southward, in order to see where the south branch of the river goes
+to. For the first six miles over most magnificent grassed country.
+Ascended a low range to get a view of the country. The prospect ahead,
+however, not cheering. Took round of bearings. A very conspicuous range
+bore about south, which I named Glengarry Range, in honour of Mr.
+Maitland Brown, a great supporter of the expedition; while to the
+south-east only one solitary hill could be seen, distant about twenty
+miles. We, however, continued for about ten miles over most miserable
+country, thickets and spinifex, when we reached some granitic rocks and a
+low rise of granite, on which we found sufficient water to camp.
+Barometer 28.12; thermometer 60 degrees at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees
+57 minutes 11 seconds South by Regulus.
+
+14th.
+Steered South-East for about fourteen miles to a stony low range, thence
+East-North-East and east and south for six miles, turning and twisting,
+looking for water. Windich found some in a gully and we camped. Spinifex
+for the first fourteen miles, and miserable country. The prospect ahead
+not very promising. Barometer 28.06; thermometer 83 degrees at 5 p.m.
+Every appearance of rain. Latitude 26 degrees 8 minutes 31 seconds South,
+longitude about 119 degrees 18 minutes East.
+
+15th.
+Raining lightly this morning. I did not proceed, but gave the horses
+rest.
+
+16th.
+Continued east for five miles, when we found three of the horses were
+missing; returned with Windich, and found them near camp, having never
+started at all. Seeing white gums to the south-east, we followed for five
+miles down a fine brook (which I named Negri Creek, after Commander
+Negri, founder of the Geographical Society of Italy), with fine grassy
+country on each side. Afterwards it joined another brook, and went
+south-east for about three miles, where it lost itself in open flats.
+Struck south for two miles to some large white gums, but found no water.
+After long looking about I found water in a gully and camped. Distance
+travelled about twenty miles. Spinifex and grassy openings the first five
+miles to-day. Barometer 28.20; thermometer 67 degrees at 6 o'clock p.m.;
+latitude 26 degrees 16 minutes 8 seconds by Jupiter. Windich shot a
+turkey.
+
+MOUNTS BARTLE AND RUSSELL.
+
+17th (Sunday).
+The horses rambled far away, and it was noon before they were all
+collected. Shifted three and a half miles north, where there was better
+feed and water. Went on to a low hill on the north of our last night's
+camp, and got a fine view of the country to the south and south-east. Two
+remarkable flat-topped hills bore South-East, which I named Mount Bartle
+and Mount Russell, after the distinguished President and Foreign
+Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society. Saw a long line of white
+gums (colalyas) running East and West about ten miles distant, looking
+very much like a river. To the east and north the view was intercepted by
+long stony rises, apparently covered with spinifex. Large white gum
+clumps studded the plains in every direction. Evidences of heavy rainfall
+at certain times to be seen everywhere. Barometer 28.28; thermometer 72
+degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 4 seconds South.
+
+18th.
+Steered South-South-East for four miles, then South-East generally,
+towards the flat-topped hills seen yesterday, and which bore 144 degrees
+East magnetic from Spinifex Hill. At six miles crossed a low range
+covered with spinifex, after which we passed over country generally well
+grassed, some of it most beautifully, and white gums very large in clumps
+were studded all over the plains. At about twenty-two miles reached the
+flat-topped hills, and camped, finding some water in a clay-pan. The line
+of white gums I find are only large clumps studded over extensive plains
+of splendidly-grassed country. No large water-course was crossed, but
+several small creeks form here and there, and afterwards run out into the
+plains, finally finding their way into the Murchison. It was sundown when
+we camped. Walked over twenty miles myself to-day. Barometer 28.38;
+thermometer 60 degrees at six o'clock; latitude 26 degrees 27 minutes 38
+seconds South, longitude about 119 degrees 42 minutes East.
+
+19th.
+Continued in a north-easterly direction for about eight miles over fine
+grassy plains, and camped at some water in a small gully with fine feed.
+I camped early in order to give the backs of the horses a good washing,
+and to refit some of the pack-saddles. Passed several clay-pans with
+water. We have not seen any permanent water for the last eighty miles. I
+much wish to find some, as it is very risky going on without the means of
+falling back. The country seems very deficient of permanent water,
+although I believe plenty could be procured by sinking. Barometer 28.46;
+thermometer 63 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 39
+seconds South. Left a pack-saddle frame and two pack-bags hanging on a
+tree.
+
+KIMBERLEY RANGE.
+
+20th.
+Steering North-East for five miles over fine grassy plains, came to a low
+stony range, ascending which we saw, a little to the south, a line of
+(colalya) white gums, to which we proceeded. Then following up a large
+brook for about five miles North-East, we camped at a small water-hole in
+the brook. In the afternoon I went with Pierre about one mile North-East
+of camp to the summit of a rough range and watershed, which I believe is
+the easterly watershed of the Murchison River. All the creeks to the west
+of this range (which I named Kimberley Range, after the Right Honourable
+Lord Kimberley, the Secretary of State for the Colonies) trend towards
+the Murchison, and finally empty into the main river. From this range we
+could see a long way to the eastward. The country is very level, with low
+ranges, but no conspicuous hills. Not a promising country for water, but
+still looks good feeding country. This range is composed of brown
+hematite, decomposing to yellow (tertiary), and is very magnetic, the
+compass being useless. Bituminous pitch found oozing out of the
+rocks--probably the result of the decomposition of the excrement of bats.
+It contains fragments of the wing cases of insects, and gives reactions
+similar to the bituminous mineral or substance found in Victoria.
+Barometer 28.285; thermometer 63 degrees at 5 p.m. On summit of
+watershed, barometer 28.15; thermometer 69 degrees; latitude 26 degrees
+17 minutes 12 seconds, longitude about 119 degrees 54 minutes East.
+
+21st.
+Continued on North-East, and, travelling over the watershed of the
+Murchison, we followed along a gully running North-East; then, passing
+some water-holes, travelled on and ascended a small range, from which we
+beheld a very extensive clear plain just before us. Thinking it was a
+fine grassy plain we quickly descended, when, to our disgust, we found it
+was spinifex that had been burnt. We continued till three o'clock, with
+nothing but spinifex plains in sight. I despatched Windich towards a
+range in the distance, and followed after as quickly as possible. When we
+reached the range we heard the welcoming gunshot, and, continuing on, we
+met Tommy, who had found abundance of water and feed on some granite
+rocks. We soon unloaded, and were all rejoiced to be in safety, the
+prospect this afternoon having been anything but cheering. Distance
+travelled about thirty miles. Barometer 28.22; thermometer 56 degrees at
+6 p.m. Cold easterly wind all day. About eighteen miles of spinifex
+plains. Latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 53 seconds by Arcturus and e
+Bootes.
+
+22nd.
+Did not travel to-day, the horses being tired, and the country ahead did
+not seem very inviting. Windich found a native spring about a mile to the
+North-East. This is a very nice spot, surrounded as it is by spinifex.
+Variation 2 degrees 40 minutes West by observation.
+
+23rd.
+Continued on North-East for about twelve miles over spinifex plains and
+sandy ridges. Went on ahead with Windich, and came to a gorge and some
+granite rocks with abundance of water, and were soon joined by the party.
+Barometer 28.30; thermometer 60 degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 53
+minutes 52 seconds by Altair.
+
+24th (Sunday).
+We rested at camp. I was all day calculating lunar observations.
+Barometer 28.22; thermometer 64 degrees at 5.30 p.m.
+
+FRERE RANGES.
+
+25th.
+Travelled onwards about North 40 degrees East for eight miles, passing a
+low granite range at six miles. Came to a fine brook trending a little
+south of east, which we followed downwards seven miles, running nearly
+east. This brook was full of water, some of the pools being eight or ten
+feet deep, ten yards wide, and sixty yards long. It flowed out into a
+large flat, and finally runs into a salt lake. I named this brook Sweeney
+Creek, after my companion and farrier, James Sweeney. Leaving the flat,
+we struck North-North-East for four miles, and came to a salt marsh about
+half a mile wide, which we crossed. Following along, came into some high
+ranges, which I named the Frere Ranges, after Sir Bartle Frere, the
+distinguished President of the Royal Geographical Society. Found a small
+rock water-hole in a gully and camped. Water appears exceedingly scarce
+in these ranges. It is very remarkable that there should have been such
+heavy rain twelve miles back, and none at all here. Rough feed for
+horses. Distance travelled about twenty-seven miles. These ranges run
+east and west, and are the highest we have seen. The marsh appears to
+follow along the south side of the range. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 70
+degrees at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds by
+Arcturus.
+
+26th.
+Ascended the Frere Ranges and got a fine view to the north and east. Fine
+high hills and ranges to the north; a salt marsh and low ranges to the
+east and South-East. Continued on North-East for four miles, then
+North-North-West for three miles, passing plenty of water in clay-holes
+and clay-pans in bed of marsh, we camped at a fine pool in a large brook
+that runs into the marsh, which I called Kennedy Creek, after my
+companion James Kennedy. The prospect ahead is very cheering, and I hope
+to find plenty of water and feed for the next 100 miles. Latitude 25
+degrees 38 minutes 44 seconds South; barometer 28.42; thermometer 41
+degrees at 10 p.m. Marked a white gumtree F 40 close to camp in bed of
+river. The banks of the brook at this spot are composed of purple-brown
+slate (Silurian).
+
+27th.
+Followed up the Kennedy Creek, bearing North-North-East and North for
+about seven miles, passing a number of shallow pools, when we came to
+some splendid springs, which I named the Windich Springs, after my old
+and well-tried companion Tommy Windich, who has now been on three
+exploring expeditions with me. They are the best springs I have ever
+seen--flags in the bed of the river, and pools twelve feet deep and
+twenty chains long--a splendid place for water. We therefore camped, and
+found another spot equally good a quarter of a mile west of camp in
+another branch. There is a most magnificent supply of water and
+feed--almost unlimited and permanent. A fine range of hills bore
+north-west from the springs, which I named Carnarvon Range, after the
+Right Honourable the present Secretary of State for the Colonies. The
+hills looked very remarkable, being covered with spinifex almost to their
+very summit. We shot five ducks and got three opossums this afternoon,
+besides doing some shoeing. There is an immense clump of white gums at
+head of spring. Barometer 28.34; thermometer 46 degrees at 11 p.m. Marked
+a large white gum-tree F 41 on west side close to right bank of river,
+being our 41st camp from Geraldton. Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes 26
+seconds South, longitude about 120 degrees 42 minutes East.
+
+MOUNT SALVADO.
+
+28th.
+Steering North 30 degrees East for eleven miles, we came to a rough hill,
+which I ascended, camped on north side of it, and found water in a gully.
+The view was very extensive but not promising--spinifex being in every
+direction. A bold hill bore North 31 degrees East magnetic, about seven
+miles distant to the North-North-West, which I named Mount Salvado, after
+Bishop Salvado, of Victoria Plains, a contributor to the Expedition Fund.
+The Carnarvon Ranges looked very remarkable. To the East and North-East
+spinifex and low ranges for fifteen miles, when the view was intercepted
+by spinifex rises--altogether very unpromising. Barometer 28.26;
+thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 11
+seconds South.
+
+29th.
+Steered East-North-East for seven miles, when we came to some fine water
+in a gully, which we did not camp at, owing to my being ahead with
+Windich, and my brother not seeing a note I left telling him to remain
+there while I went on to get a view ahead. Passing this at ten miles, we
+reached a low spinifex hill capped with rock, from which a remarkable
+hill was visible, which I named Mount Davis, after my friend Mr. J.S.
+Davis, who was a contributor to the Expedition Fund. Mount Salvado was
+also visible. Spinifex in every direction, and the country very miserable
+and unpromising. I went ahead with Windich. Steering about North 15
+degrees East for about eight miles over spinifex sand-hills, we found a
+spring in a small flat, which I named Pierre Spring, after my companion
+Tommy Pierre. It was surrounded by the most miserable spinifex country,
+and is quite a diamond in the desert. We cleared it out and got
+sufficient water for our horses. To the North, South, and East nothing
+but spinifex sand-hills in sight. Barometer 28.44; thermometer 70 degrees
+at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes 34 seconds South by Altair.
+
+SEARCHING FOR WATER.
+
+30th.
+Steering East-North-East over spinifex red sand-hills for nine miles, we
+came to a valley and followed down a gully running North-North-East for
+two miles, when it lost itself on the flat, which was wooded and grassy.
+About a mile farther on we found a clay-pan with water, and camped, with
+excellent feed. The country is very dry, and I should think there has not
+been any rain for several months. The appearance of the country ahead is
+better than it looked yesterday. I went onwards with Windich to-day, and
+found the water. Barometer 28.46; thermometer 66 degrees at 5.30 p.m.;
+latitude 25 degrees 10 minutes 32 seconds.
+
+31st. (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. Took observations for time. Left two pack-saddle bags
+hanging on a tree.
+
+June 1st.
+Barometer 28.38; thermometer 45 degrees at 8 a.m. In collecting the
+horses we came on an old native camp, and found the skull of a native,
+much charred, evidently the remains of one who had been eaten. Continued
+on about North-East along a grassy flat, and at five miles passed some
+clay-pans of water, after which we encountered spinifex, which continued
+for fifteen miles, when we got to a rocky range, covered with more
+spinifex. Myself and Windich were in advance, and after reaching the
+range we followed down a flat about North for six miles, when it joined
+another large water-course, both trending North-North-West and
+North-West. We followed down this river for about seven miles, in hopes
+of finding water, without success. Night was fast approaching, and I
+struck north for four miles to a range, on reaching which the prospect
+was very poor; it proved to be a succession of spinifex sand-hills, and
+no better country was in view to the North-East and East. It was just
+sundown when we reached the range; we then turned east for two miles, and
+south, following along all the gullies we came across, but could find no
+water. It was full moon, so that we could see clearly. We turned more to
+the westward and struck our outward tracks, and, following back along
+them, we met the party encamped at the junction of the two branches
+mentioned before. We kept watch over the horses to keep them from
+straying. Mine and Windich's horses were nearly knocked up, and Windich
+himself was very ill all night. Latitude 24 degrees 55 minutes 19 seconds
+South.
+
+AT WELD SPRINGS.
+
+2nd.
+Early this morning went with Pierre to look for water, while my brother
+and Windich went on the same errand. We followed up the brook about south
+for seven miles, when we left it and followed another branch about
+South-South-East, ascending which, Pierre drew my attention to swarms of
+birds, parroquets, etc., about half a mile ahead. We hastened on, and to
+our delight found one of the best springs in the colony. It ran down the
+gully for twenty chains, and is as clear and fresh as possible, while the
+supply is unlimited. Overjoyed at our good fortune, we hastened back,
+and, finding that my brother and Windich had not returned, packed up and
+shifted over to the springs, leaving a note telling them the good news.
+After reaching the springs we were soon joined by them. They had only
+found sufficient water to give their own horses a drink; they also
+rejoiced to find so fine a spot. Named the springs the Weld Springs,
+after his Excellency Governor Weld, who has always taken such great
+interest in exploration, and without whose influence and assistance this
+expedition would not have been organized. There is splendid feed all
+around. I intend giving the horses a week's rest here, as they are much
+in want of it, and are getting very poor and tired. Barometer 28.24;
+thermometer 71 degrees at 5 p.m. Shot a kangaroo.
+
+3rd.
+Rested at Weld Springs. Light rain this morning. The horses doing well,
+and will improve very fast. Towards evening the weather cleared, which I
+was sorry for, as good rains are what we are much in need of. Did some
+shoeing. Barometer 28.13; thermometer 61 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+4th.
+Barometer 28.16; thermometer 53 degrees at 8 a.m. Rested at Weld Springs.
+Shod some of the horses. Repairing saddles. Rating chronometer. Windich
+shot an emu. Horses doing first-rate, and fast improving.
+
+5th.
+Barometer 28.28; thermometer 53 degrees at 6 p.m. Rested at Weld Springs.
+Shoeing and saddle-stuffing. Ten emus came to water; shot twice with
+rifle at them, but missed. Rated chronometer.
+
+6th.
+Rested at Weld Springs. Took three sets of lunars. Pierre shot a
+kangaroo. Marked a tree F 46 on the east side of the spring at our
+bivouac, which is in latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds South,
+longitude about 121 degrees 21 minutes East. Mended saddles. Horses much
+improved, and some of them getting very fresh.
+
+7th (Sunday).
+Pierre shot an emu, and the others shot several pigeons. This is a
+splendid spot; emus and kangaroos numerous, pigeons and birds
+innumerable, literally covering the entire surface all round the place in
+the evenings. We have been living on game ever since we have been here.
+Intend taking a flying trip to-morrow; party to follow on our tracks on
+Tuesday. Read Divine Service. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 55 degrees at
+7 p.m.
+
+8th.
+Started with Tommy Pierre to explore the country East-North-East for
+water, leaving instructions for my brother to follow after us to-morrow
+with the party. We travelled generally East-North-East for twenty miles
+over spinifex and undulating sand-hills, without seeing any water. We
+turned east for ten miles to a range, which we found to be covered with
+spinifex. Everywhere nothing else was to be seen; no feed, destitute of
+water; while a few small gullies ran out of the low range, but all were
+dry. Another range about twenty-four miles distant was the extent of our
+view, to which we bore. At twenty miles, over red sandy hills covered
+with spinifex and of the most miserable nature, we came to a narrow
+samphire flat, following which south for two miles, we camped without
+water and scarcely any feed. Our horses were knocked up, having come over
+heavy ground more than fifty miles. The whole of the country passed over
+to-day is covered with spinifex, and is a barren worthless desert.
+
+BACK TO THE SPRINGS.
+
+9th.
+At daybreak continued east about four miles to the range seen yesterday,
+which we found to be a low stony rise, covered with spinifex. The view
+was extensive and very gloomy. Far to the north and east, spinifex
+country, level, and no appearance of hills or water-courses. To the south
+were seen a few low ranges, covered also with spinifex; in fact, nothing
+but spinifex in sight, and no chance of water. Therefore I was obliged to
+turn back, as our horses were done up. Travelling south for five miles,
+we then turned West-North-West until we caught our outward tracks, and,
+following them, we met the party at 3 o'clock, coming on, about twenty
+miles from the Weld Springs. Our horses were completely done up. We had
+not had water for thirty-one hours. We all turned back, retreating
+towards the springs, and continued on till 10 o'clock, when we camped in
+the spinifex and tied up the horses.
+
+10th.
+We travelled on to the springs, which were only about three miles from
+where we slept last night, and camped. I intend staying here for some
+time, until I find water ahead or we get some rain. We are very fortunate
+in having such a good depot, as the feed is very good. We found that
+about a dozen natives had been to the springs while we were away. They
+had collected some of the emu feathers, which were lying all about.
+Natives appear to be very numerous, and I have no doubt that there are
+springs in the spinifex or valleys close to it. Barometer 28.08;
+thermometer 62 degrees at 5.30 p.m.
+
+11th.
+Rested at the Weld Springs. Shot an emu; about a dozen came to water. My
+brother and Windich intend going a flying trip East-South-East in search
+of water to-morrow. Barometer 28.15; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+12th.
+My brother and Windich started in search of water; myself and Pierre
+accompanied them about twelve miles with water to give their horses a
+drink. About ten o'clock we left them and returned to camp.
+
+FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES.
+
+13th.
+About one o'clock Pierre saw a flock of emus coming to water, and went
+off to get a shot. Kennedy followed with the rifle. I climbed up on a
+small tree to watch them. I was surprised to hear natives' voices, and,
+looking towards the hill, I saw from forty to sixty natives running
+towards the camp, all plumed up and armed with spears and shields. I was
+cool, and told Sweeney to bring out the revolvers; descended from the
+tree and got my gun and cooeyed to Pierre and Kennedy, who came running.
+By this time they were within sixty yards, and halted. One advanced to
+meet me and stood twenty yards off; I made friendly signs; he did not
+appear very hostile. All at once one from behind (probably a chief) came
+rushing forward, and made many feints to throw spears. He went through
+many manoeuvres, and gave a signal, when the whole number made a rush
+towards us, yelling and shouting, with their spears shipped. When within
+thirty yards I gave the word to fire: we all fired as one man, only one
+report being heard. I think the natives got a few shots, but they all ran
+up the hill and there stood, talking and haranguing and appearing very
+angry. We re-loaded our guns, and got everything ready for a second
+attack, which I was sure they would make. We were not long left in
+suspense. They all descended from the hill and came on slowly towards us.
+When they were about 150 yards off I fired my rifle, and we saw one of
+them fall, but he got up again and was assisted away. On examining the
+spot we found the ball had cut in two the two spears he was carrying; he
+also dropped his wommera, which was covered with blood. We could follow
+the blood-drops for a long way over the stones. I am afraid he got a
+severe wound. My brother and Windich being away we were short-handed. The
+natives seem determined to take our lives, and therefore I shall not
+hesitate to fire on them should they attack us again. I thus decide and
+write in all humility, considering it a necessity, as the only way of
+saving our lives. I write this at 4 p.m., just after the occurrence, so
+that, should anything happen to us, my brother will know how and when it
+occurred.
+
+5 p.m. The natives appear to have made off. We intend sleeping in the
+thicket close to camp, and keeping a strict watch, so as to be ready for
+them should they return to the attack this evening. At 7.30 my brother
+and Windich returned, and were surprised to hear of our adventure. They
+had been over fifty miles from camp East-South-East, and had passed over
+some good feeding country, but had not found a drop of water. They and
+their horses had been over thirty hours without water.
+
+14th (Sunday).
+The natives did not return to the attack last night. In looking round
+camp we found the traces of blood, where one of the natives had been
+lying down. This must have been the foremost man, who was in the act of
+throwing his spear, and who urged the others on. Two therefore, at least,
+are wounded, and will have cause to remember the time they made their
+murderous attack upon us. We worked all day putting up a stone hut, ten
+by nine feet, and seven feet high, thatched with boughs. We finished it;
+it will make us safe at night. Being a very fair hut, it will be a great
+source of defence. Barometer 28.09; thermometer 68 degrees at 5 p.m. Hope
+to have rain, as without it we cannot proceed.
+
+15th.
+Finished the hut, pugging it at the ends, and making the roof better. Now
+it is in good order, and we are quite safe from attack at night, should
+they attempt it again, which I think is doubtful, as they got too warm a
+reception last time. I intend going with Windich to-morrow easterly in
+search of water. Barometer 29.09 at 5 p.m.; thermometer 62 degrees.
+
+16th.
+Left the Weld Springs with Windich and a pack-horse carrying fourteen
+gallons of water. Steered South-East for twelve miles over spinifex,
+after which we got into a grassy ravine, which we followed along three
+miles, passing some fine clay-holes which would hold plenty of water if
+it rained. We then turned East-North-East for twelve miles over spinifex,
+miserable country, when we struck the tracks of my brother and Windich on
+their return, June 13th. We followed along them South-East for four
+miles, and then South-East to a bluff range about eighteen miles, which
+we reached at sundown. Spinifex generally, a few grassy patches
+intervening, on which were numbers of kangaroos. We camped close to the
+bluff, and gave the horses one gallon of water each out of the cans. Just
+when the pannicans were boiled, heard noises which we thought were
+natives shouting. We instantly put out the fire and had our supper in the
+dark, keeping a sharp look-out for two hours, when we were convinced it
+must have been a native dog, as there were hundreds all round us, barking
+and howling. The weather is heavy and cloudy, and I hope to get some rain
+shortly. We slept without any fire, but it was not very cold.
+
+17th.
+As the horses did not ramble far, we got off early and followed along and
+through the ranges East-South-East about, the distance being eighteen
+miles. Passed some splendid clay-pans quite dry. The flats around the
+ranges are very grassy, and look promising eastwards, but we cannot find
+any water. Kangaroos and birds are numerous. Being about seventy miles
+from camp, we cannot go any farther, or our horses will not carry us
+back. We therefore turned, keeping to the south of our outward track, and
+at about eleven miles found some water in some clay-holes, and camped at
+about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. There is sufficient water to last the
+party about a week, but not more. The weather is dark and threatening,
+and I believe there will be rain to-night, which will be a great boon,
+and will enable us to travel along easily. It is in circumstances such as
+I am at present placed that we are sure to implore help and assistance
+from the hand of the Creator; but when we have received all we desire,
+how often we forget to give Him praise!
+
+18th.
+Rained lightly last night, and we had a nice shower this morning. Yet did
+not get very wet, as we had our waterproofs. Fearing that the rain would
+obliterate the tracks and the party be unable to follow them, I decided
+to return towards Weld Springs. Therefore followed along our outward
+track, but found, to our sorrow, that there had been no rain west of our
+last night's camp. We pushed along and got within eighteen miles of Weld
+Springs and camped without water, having left the cans behind, thinking
+we should find plenty of rain-water.
+
+19th.
+We had to go about two miles for our horses this morning; after which, we
+made all haste towards Weld Springs, as I knew the party would be coming
+on along our tracks to-day. When we were within six miles of the spring
+we met the party, but, being obliged to take our horses to water, I
+decided that all should return and make a fresh start to-morrow. The
+natives had not returned to the attack during our absence, so I conclude
+they do not intend to interfere with us further. On our way to-day we
+passed some fine rock holes, but all were quite dry. Rain is very much
+required in this country.
+
+20th.
+Started at 9.30 a.m., and steering South-East towards the water found on
+the 17th for twenty-four miles; thence East-South-East for eight miles,
+and camped without water on a small patch of feed. The last ten miles was
+over clear spinifex country of the most wretched description. The country
+all the way, in fact, is most miserable and intolerable. Barometer 28.50;
+thermometer 56 degrees at 8 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 13 minutes 36
+seconds South by meridian altitude of Arcturus. Left the rum-keg and a
+pair of farrier's pincers in the stone hut at Weld Springs.
+
+21st (Sunday).
+Got an early start, and continued on East-South-East. At about three
+miles reached a spring on a small patch of feed in the spinifex and
+camped, but found, after digging it out, that scarcely any water came in.
+I have no doubt that it will fill up a good deal in the night; but, our
+horses being thirsty, I re-saddled and pushed on to the water about
+sixteen miles ahead, which we reached at 4 p.m. There is not more than a
+week's supply here, therefore I intend going ahead with Pierre to-morrow
+in search of more. The country ahead seems promising, but there is a
+great deal of spinifex almost everywhere. From Weld Spring to our present
+camp is all spinifex, with the exception of a few flats along short
+gullies. Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds South, longitude about
+121 degrees 57 minutes East. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 62 degrees at 5
+p.m.
+
+22nd.
+Left camp in company with Tommy Pierre, with a pack-horse carrying
+fifteen gallons of water. Steered South-East for four miles, then east
+for about eight miles over fine grassy country, then South-East towards a
+high range about twenty-five miles distant. After going about three
+miles, struck a flat trending South-South-East, which we followed down
+about four miles, passing two small clay-holes with water in them; then
+we struck South-East for four miles, and came to a large brook trending
+South-East, which we followed along until it lost itself on the plain
+about six miles. Fine grassy country all the way, and game abundant.
+There were a few gallons of water here and there in the brook, but none
+large enough to camp at. I then turned east, and at about seven miles
+reached the hill seen this morning, which I named Mount Moore, after Mr.
+W.D. Moore, of Fremantle, a subscriber to the Expedition Fund. Ascending
+the hill we had an extensive view to the South-West, South, and
+South-East. Fine grassy country all round and very little spinifex. To
+the south about nine miles we saw a lake, and farther off a remarkable
+red-faced range, which I named Timperley Range, after my friend Mr. W.H.
+Timperley, Inspector of Police, from whom I received a great deal of
+assistance before leaving Champion Bay. A remarkable peak, with a reddish
+top, bore South-South-East, which I named Mount Hosken, after Mr. M.
+Hosken, of Geraldton, a contributor to the expedition. I made south
+towards the lake, and at one mile and a half came on to a gully in the
+grassy plain, in which we found abundance of water, sufficient to last
+for months. We therefore camped for the night, with beautiful feed for
+the horses. I was very thankful to find so much water and such fine
+grassy country, for, if we had not found any this trip, we should have
+been obliged to retreat towards Weld Springs, the water where I left the
+party being only sufficient to last a few days. The country passed over
+to-day was very grassy, with only a little spinifex, and it looks
+promising ahead. Distance from camp about thirty-five miles.
+
+LAKE AUGUSTA.
+
+23rd.
+Steering south for about eight miles, we reached the lake, which I named
+Lake Augusta. The water is salt, and about five miles in circumference.
+Grassy country in the flat; red sand-hills along the shore. It appeared
+deep, and swarmed with ducks and swans. Pierre shot two ducks, after
+which we pushed on North-East for about twelve miles to a low rocky
+bluff, which we ascended and got a view of the country ahead--rough
+broken ranges to the east and south. We continued on east for six miles,
+when, on approaching a rocky face of a range, we saw some natives on top
+of it, watching us. Approaching nearer, we heard them haranguing and
+shouting, and soon afterward came within thirty yards of one who was
+stooping down, looking intently and amazedly at us. I made friendly
+signs, but he ran off shouting, and apparently much afraid. He and
+several others ran up and joined the natives on the cliff summit, and
+then all made off. We turned, and steering East-North-East for six miles,
+and then east for about fourteen miles, the last few miles being
+miserable spinifex country, we camped, with poor feed, amongst some
+spinifex ranges. A good deal of grassy country the first part of the day.
+Kangaroos very numerous, and emus also. Evidences of the natives being in
+great numbers.
+
+24th.
+Ascended a red-topped peak close to our bivouac and got a view ahead. A
+salt lake was visible a few miles to the east, towards which we
+proceeded. Passing along samphire flats and over red sand-hills, we got
+within a mile of the lake. The country close to it not looking promising,
+I determined to turn our faces westward towards the party. Steering a
+little south of west for three miles, we struck a large brook trending
+North-East into the lake, and, following it up a mile, found a fine pool
+of fresh water, with splendid feed. This is very fortunate, as it is a
+good place to bring the party to. Elated with our success, we continued
+on westerly, passing some fine rock water-holes, half full of water, and
+at twenty miles from the pool we found a springy hole, with plenty of
+water in it, within a few hundred yards of our outward track. We had
+missed it going out; it is in the centre of a very fine grassy plain.
+Kangaroos and emus numerous, also natives. Giving the horses water, we
+pushed on for twelve miles and camped on some fine grassy flats. Every
+appearance of rain.
+
+ANOTHER NATIVE.
+
+25th.
+Having finished all our rations last night, I shot two kangaroos while out
+for the horses, and brought the hind quarters with us. Continuing westerly
+for about ten miles, we reached the water, our bivouac on the 22nd. I
+awaited the arrival of the party, which should reach here this morning. At
+two o'clock heard gunshots, and saw my brother and Windich walking towards
+us. Found that they had missed our tracks and were camped about a mile
+higher up the gully, at some small clay-holes. We got our horses and
+accompanied them back. Rained this evening more than we have had before.
+Very cloudy. Barometer 28.18, but inclined to rise. Everything had gone on
+well during my absence.
+
+26th.
+Did not travel to-day, as there was good feed and water at this camp. My
+brother, Windich, and Pierre rode over to Lake Augusta to get some
+shooting, and returned in the afternoon with a swan and two ducks. On
+their way out they saw a native and gave him chase. He climbed up a small
+tree, and, although Windich expended all his knowledge of the languages
+of Australia to get him to talk, he would not open his lips, but remained
+silent; they therefore left him to get down from the tree at his leisure.
+Re-stuffed some of the pack-saddles. Marked a tree F 50, being our 50th
+camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.40; thermometer 50 degrees at 6 p.m.;
+weather cleared off and fine night. Latitude 25 degrees 37 minutes 38
+seconds South; longitude about 122 degrees 22 minutes East.
+
+27th.
+Erected a cairn of stones on South-East point of Mount Moore, after which
+continued on and reached the spring found by me on the 24th; distance
+fifteen miles. The last six miles poor spinifex country. Fine and grassy
+round spring. Barometer 28.54; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 p.m.; latitude
+25 degrees 37 minutes 53 seconds by Arcturus. Marked a tree F 51, being
+the 51st camp from Geraldton.
+
+28th (Sunday).
+Rested at spring. Found the variations to be 1 degree 52 minutes West by
+azimuths.
+
+29th.
+Reached the pool found by me on the 24th; distance seventeen miles.
+Latitude 25 degrees 41 minutes 22 seconds South; longitude about 122
+degrees 53 minutes East. Splendid feed round camp. Marked a tree F 52,
+being the 52nd from Geraldton. About two miles west of camp I ascended a
+remarkable hill and took a round of bearings, naming it Mount Bates,
+after the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society.
+
+FARING SUMPTUOUSLY.
+
+30th.
+Left camp F 52 in company with Tommy Windich, taking one pack-horse, to
+find water ahead eastward. Steered East-North-East over salt marshes and
+spinifex sand-hills, and at about eleven miles found water in some
+clay-pans, and left a note telling my brother to camp here to-morrow
+night. Continued on and found several more fine water-pans and fine
+grassy patches. Ascended a range to get a view ahead. In every direction
+spinifex, more especially to the north; to the east some low ranges were
+visible, about twenty miles distant, towards which we proceeded. On our
+way we surprised an emu on its nest and found several eggs; we buried
+four with a note stuck over them, for the party to get when they came
+along, and took three with us. Soon after this the horse Windich was
+riding (Mission) gave in, and we had great difficulty in getting him
+along. I was much surprised at this, for I considered him the best horse
+we had. We reached the range and found water in some of the gorges, but
+no feed; spinifex everywhere. We continued on till dark, passing some
+natives' fire, which we did not approach, then camped with scarcely any
+feed. I hope to have better luck to-morrow. We have found plenty of
+water, but no feed; this is better than having no water and plenty of
+feed. We had one wurrung, four chockalotts, and three emu eggs, besides
+bread and bacon, for tea to-night, so we fared sumptuously.
+
+July 1st.
+Got off early and continued easterly to a low stony range three miles
+off, over spinifex sandy country. Found a rock water-hole and gave our
+horses a drink. Continuing about east to other ranges, which we followed
+along and through, and from range to range, spinifex intervening
+everywhere, and no feed, a few little drops of water in the gullies, but
+not sufficient for the party to camp at. When we had travelled about
+fifteen miles, we turned north for three miles, and again east, through
+and over some ranges. No feed and scarcely any water. Saw a range about
+twenty-five miles farther east--spinifex all the way to it. Mission being
+again knocked up, although carrying only a few pounds, we camped about
+three o'clock at a small hole of water in a gully--only large enough to
+serve the party one night--the first to-day that would even do that. The
+last forty miles was over the most wretched country I have ever seen; not
+a bit of grass, and no water, except after rain; spinifex everywhere. We
+are very fortunate to have a little rain-water, or we could not get
+ahead.
+
+2nd.
+Steered towards the range seen yesterday a little south of east, and,
+after going twelve miles, my horse completely gave in, Mission doing the
+same also. I had hard work to get them along, and at last they would not
+walk. I gave them a rest and then drove them before me, following Windich
+till we reached the range. Found a little water in a gully, but no feed.
+Spinifex all the way to-day; most wretched country. We ascended the
+range, and the country ahead looks first-rate; high ranges to the
+North-East, and apparently not so much spinifex. We continued North-East,
+and after going four miles camped on a patch of feed, the first seen for
+the last sixty miles. I was very tired, having walked nearly twenty
+miles, and having to drive two knocked-up horses. I have good hopes of
+getting both feed and water to-morrow, for, if we do not, we shall be in
+a very awkward position.
+
+3rd.
+Soon after starting, found a little water in a gully and gave our horses
+a drink. Ascended a spur of the range and had a good view ahead, and was
+very pleased with the prospect. Steering North-East towards a large range
+about fifteen miles off, we found a great deal of spinifex, although the
+country generally was thickly wooded. I rode Mission, who went along
+pretty well for about twelve miles, when Williams gave in again, and
+Mission soon did the same. For the next six miles to the range we had
+awful work, but managed, with leading and driving, to reach the range;
+spinifex all the way, and also on the top of it. I was very nearly
+knocked up myself, but ascended the range and had a very extensive view.
+Far to the north and east the horizon was as level and uniform as that of
+the sea; apparently spinifex everywhere; no hills or ranges could be seen
+for a distance of quite thirty miles. The prospect was very cheerless and
+disheartening. Windich went on the only horse not knocked up, in order to
+find water for the horses. I followed after his tracks, leading the two
+poor done-up horses. With difficulty I could get them to walk. Over and
+through the rough range I managed to pull them along, and found
+sufficient water to give them a good drink, and camped on a small patch
+of rough grass in one of the gorges. Spinifex everywhere; it is a most
+fearful country. We cannot proceed farther in this direction, and must
+return and meet the party, which I hope to do to-morrow night. We can
+only crawl along, having to walk and lead the horses, or at least drag
+them. The party have been following us, only getting a little water from
+gullies, and there is very little to fall back on for over fifty miles. I
+will leave what I intend doing until I meet them. I am nearly knocked up
+again to-night; my boots have hurt my feet, but I am not yet
+disheartened.
+
+4th.
+We travelled back towards the party, keeping a little to the west of our
+outward track; and after going five miles found some water in clay-holes,
+sufficient to last the party about one night. Two of our horses being
+knocked up, I made up my mind to let the party meet us here, although I
+scarcely know what to do when they do arrive. To go forward looks very
+unpromising, and to retreat we have quite seventy miles with scarcely any
+water and no feed at all. The prospect is very cheerless, and what I
+shall do depends on the state of the horses, when they reach here. It is
+very discouraging to have to retreat, as Mr. Gosse's farthest point west
+is only 200 miles from us. We finished all our rations this morning, and
+we have been hunting for game ever since twelve o'clock, and managed to
+get a wurrung and an opossum, the only living creatures seen, and which
+Windich was fortunate to capture.
+
+LOSS OF HORSES.
+
+5th (Sunday).
+Early this morning Windich and I went in search of more water. Having
+nothing to eat, it did not take us long to have a little drink of water
+for our breakfast. Went a few miles to the North-West and looked all
+round, but only found a small rock water-hole. Windich got an opossum out
+of a tree. We returned about twelve o'clock and then ate the opossum. At
+about one o'clock we saddled up and made back towards the party, which I
+thought should have arrived by this time. When about two miles we met
+them coming on; they had been obliged to leave two horses on the way,
+knocked up, one named Fame, about twenty-four miles away, and Little
+Padbury about eight miles back; all the others were in pretty good trim,
+although very hungry and tired. We returned to the little water, which
+they soon finished. I was glad to meet the party again, although we were
+in a bad position. Intend returning to-morrow to the range left by the
+party this morning, where there is enough water for half a day, and
+search that range more thoroughly. The horses will have a good night's
+feed and I have every confidence that, if the worst comes, we shall be
+able to retreat to a place of safety. Found my brother in good spirits.
+We soon felt quite happy and viewed the future hopefully. I was sorry to
+lose the horses, but we cannot expect to get on through such a country
+without some giving in. The country is so dry; the season altogether dry,
+otherwise we could go ahead easily. A good shower of rain is what is
+required. It has been very warm the last three days, and I hope much for
+a change. Read Divine Service. Latitude 25 degrees 31 minutes 45 seconds
+South, longitude about 124 degrees 17 minutes East. Barometer 28.62 at 4
+p.m.
+
+6th.
+Retreated back to the water left by the party in the range fourteen miles
+South-West. At one mile we gave the horses as much water as they required
+from some rock holes. After reaching the water and having dinner, Pierre
+and myself, and my brother and Windich, started off on foot to examine
+the range for water, but could find only a few gallons. I think there
+will be sufficient water to last us here to-morrow, and we will give the
+country a good searching. If we fail, there must be a retreat westwards
+at least seventy miles. Barometer 28.53; thermometer 64 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+WATER FOUND.
+
+7th.
+Early this morning Pierre and I and my brother and Windich started off in
+search of water, as there was scarcely any left at camp. Unless we are
+fortunate enough to find some, retreat is inevitable. Pierre and myself
+searched the range we were camped in, while Windich and my brother went
+further south towards another range. We searched all round and over the
+rough ranges without success, and reached camp at one o'clock. To our
+relief and joy learnt that my brother and Windich had found water about
+five miles South-South-East, sufficient to last two or three weeks. This
+was good news; so after dinner we packed up and went over to the water.
+The feed was not very good, but I am truly thankful to have found it, as
+a retreat of seventy miles over most wretched country was anything but
+cheering. Barometer 28.52; thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25
+degrees 43 minutes 8 seconds by Arcturus.
+
+8th.
+Rested at camp. Devoted the day to taking sets of lunar observations.
+There is very little feed about this water, and to-morrow my brother and
+Pierre go on a flying trip ahead. It is very warm to-day, and has been
+for the last week. Barometer 28.59; thermometer 79 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+9th.
+Very cloudy this morning, although the barometer is rising. My brother and
+Pierre started on the flying trip; intend following on their tracks on
+Saturday. Could not take another set of lunars on account of the cloudy
+weather. Was very busy all day repairing pack-saddles and putting
+everything in good order. Did away with one pack-saddle, and repaired the
+others with the wool. Shall leave here with twelve pack-horses, and three
+running loose and two riding, besides the two that are on flying trip.
+Barometer 28.59 thermometer 69 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+10th.
+Finished repairs and got everything ready for a good start to-morrow
+morning, when we will follow my brother's and Pierre's tracks. Cloudy
+day, but barometer does not fall. Marked a tree F 59, being our 59th
+bivouac from Geraldton. Hung up on the same tree four pack-bags and one
+pack-saddle frame. Barometer 28.56; thermometer 74 degrees at 5 p.m.
+Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo this afternoon, and also found a fine
+rock water-hole about one mile North-East of camp.
+
+11th.
+Followed on the tracks of my brother and Pierre, south seven miles to a
+rough broken range--spinifex and rough grass all the way. Thence we
+turned South-East for three miles; then North-East and East over most
+wretched spinifex plains for nine miles, when we got on to a narrow
+grassy flat, and, following it along about four miles, came to some water
+in a clay-pan, sufficient for the night, and camped. With the exception
+of this narrow flat the country passed over to-day is most miserable and
+worthless, and very dusty. Another hot day. Barometer 28.70; thermometer
+67 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds South.
+
+12th (Sunday.).
+Our horses finished all the water. We got off early, and, steering east,
+followed my brother's and Pierre's tracks for eight miles, when we
+reached a low rise, and a fine rock water-hole holding over a hundred
+gallons of water. While we were watering our horses we heard gunshots,
+and soon beheld my brother and Pierre returning. They had good news for
+us, having found some springs about twenty-five miles to the eastward.
+They had seen many natives; but for an account of their proceedings I
+insert a copy of his journal. Barometer 28.60; thermometer 60 degrees. We
+camped for the day. Latitude 25 degrees 53 minutes 23 seconds South. Read
+Divine Service.
+
+A. FORREST'S JOURNAL.
+
+July 10th.
+Steered east from the rock hole for the first fifteen miles, over clear
+open sand-plains and red sand-hills covered with spinifex; then
+South-South-East for ten miles over similar country to a rough range;
+after going nearly all round it only found about one gallon of water. As
+my horse was very tired, I almost gave up all hopes of finding any, as it
+would take us all our time to get back; however, I went South-East for
+seven miles further, and found about fifty gallons in a rock hole, but
+not a blade of grass near it. As it was nearly dark, and no feed near, I
+bore south for a low range about five miles distant, and found a little
+feed but no water, and camped. My horse completely gave in; I had great
+difficulty in getting him to the range.
+
+11th.
+Again bore west on our return to meet the party. After going seven miles
+we saw a beautiful piece of feeding country--the first we had seen for
+the last 130 miles--and after looking for water, and our fondest hopes
+beginning to fail, we at last followed what seemed to be the largest
+gully to its head, when we were gratified in beholding abundance of
+water, with several springs, and good feed in the flats below. My horse
+was completely knocked up, and I was glad to be able to give him a rest.
+After being an hour here, Pierre, who is always on the look-out, saw two
+natives, fully armed and in war costume, making for us. I was soon on my
+legs and made towards them, but as soon as they saw us they began to move
+off, and were soon out of sight in the thicket. At two o'clock continued
+on West-North-West for twelve miles, camped in a thicket, and, after
+taking off our saddles and making a fire, were very much surprised to
+find a party of eight or nine natives going to camp close to us, and a
+number more coming down the hill. As it was just dark we thought it best
+to move on a few miles, which we did after dark. I believe, myself, they
+intend attacking us after dark.
+
+A. FORREST.
+
+13th.
+Steering straight for the water found by my brother, about
+East-South-East for twenty-five miles, over most miserable spinifex
+country, without a break. Just before we got to the water Windich shot an
+emu. We saw two natives, who made off. Many fires in every direction.
+Latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes 10 seconds South, longitude about 124
+degrees 46 minutes East. Fine water at this place. I have no doubt water
+is always here. I named it the Alexander Spring, after my brother, who
+discovered it. Abundance of water also in rock holes.
+
+14th.
+Rested at Alexander Spring. Eating emu was our chief occupation to-day, I
+think. Weather cloudy. Barometer 28.75; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+NATIVES' GRAVES.
+
+15th.
+Rested at Alexander Spring. Went for a walk to a flat-topped hill about
+South-South-East 50 chains from camp, which I have since named Mount
+Allott, and placed a cairn on it; another hill close by I named Mount
+Worsnop, after respectively the Mayor and Town Clerk of Adelaide. Found
+two natives' graves close to camp; they were apparently about two feet
+deep, and covered with boughs and wood; they are the first I have ever
+seen in all my travels to the eastward in Australia, and Windich says he
+has never come across one before either. We also found about a dozen
+pieces of wood, some six feet long and three to seven inches wide, and
+carved and trimmed up. All around were stones put up in the forked trees.
+I believe it is the place where the rite of circumcision is performed.
+Barometer 28.84; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+16th.
+Left Alexander Spring, in company with Windich, to look for water ahead.
+Steered east for twelve miles, over spinifex sand-hills with some
+salt-marsh flats intervening. We then turned South-East for seven miles
+to some cliffs, and followed them along east about one mile and a half,
+when we saw a clear patch a little to the North-East, on reaching which
+we found a fine rock water-hole holding over 100 gallons of water. We had
+a pannican of tea, and gave our horses an hour and a half's rest. Left a
+note for my brother, advising him to camp here the first night. We
+continued on a little to the south of east for about fifteen miles over
+spinifex plains, when we camped on a small patch of feed. Saw a fire
+about three quarters of a mile south of our camp, and supposed that
+natives were camped there.
+
+17th.
+Early this morning we proceeded to where we saw the fire last night, but
+could not find any natives: it must have been some spinifex burning. We
+continued about east for two miles; found a rock water-hole holding about
+fifty gallons, and had breakfast. After this, continued on a little south
+of east for twelve miles, when we turned more to the north, searching
+every spinifex rise that had a rocky face, first North and then
+North-West and West, all over the country, but not over any great extent,
+as my horse (Brick) was knocked up. About one o'clock we found enough to
+give the horses a drink, and to make some tea for ourselves. We saw some
+low cliffs to the north, and proceeding towards them we saw ahead about
+North-North-East a remarkable high cliff. I therefore decided to make for
+it. I had to walk and drive my horse before me, and before we reached the
+cliff we had hard work to get him to move. When we got close we were
+rejoiced to see cliffs and gorges without end, and descending the first
+hollow found a fine rock hole containing at least 250 gallons. We
+therefore camped, as it was just sundown. I am very sanguine of finding
+more water to-morrow, as our horses will soon finish this hole. There was
+very little feed about the water.
+
+SEARCHING FOR WATER.
+
+18th.
+This morning we began searching the ranges for water. First tried
+westerly, and searched some fine gullies and gorges, but without success.
+My horse soon gave in again, and I left him on a patch of feed and
+continued the search on foot. I had not walked a quarter of a mile before
+I found about 200 gallons in a gully, and, following down the gully, we
+found a fine pool in a sandy bed, enough to last a month. We were
+rejoiced at our good fortune, and, returning to where we left the horse,
+camped for the remainder of the day. There is not much feed anywhere
+about these cliffs and gullies, but as long as there is plenty of water
+the horses will do very well. To-morrow I intend going back to meet the
+party, as the way we came was very crooked, and I hope to save them many
+miles. It is certainly a wretched country we have been travelling through
+for the last two months, and, what makes it worse, the season is an
+exceptionally dry one; it is quite summer weather. However, we are now
+within 100 miles of Mr. Gosse's farthest west, and I hope soon to see a
+change for the better. We have been most fortunate in finding water, and
+I am indeed very thankful for it.
+
+19th (Sunday).
+Started back to meet the party, leaving old Brick hobbled, and my saddle,
+rug, etc., hidden in a tree. After travelling about twenty miles, met the
+party coming all right. Everything had gone on well during my absence.
+They had slept last night at the rock hole, where we stayed on the 16th,
+and found sufficient water for the horses in it. The note I left had been
+taken away by the natives, who were very numerous about there. Many
+tracks were seen, following mine and Windich's for several miles. The
+party had not, however, seen any of them. They were rejoiced to hear of
+the water ahead, and we steered for it, keeping to the west of our return
+route to search some cliffs on the way for water. After travelling nine
+miles we camped without water, on a grassy flat close to some cliffs;
+most miserable spinifex country all day; this is the first grass seen.
+Walked over twenty miles to-day myself.
+
+20th.
+Steered North-East straight for the water found on the 18th for fourteen
+miles; reached it and camped. Found the horse Brick I left behind, and
+saddle, rug, etc., as we left them. Horses were very thirsty, but there
+is plenty of water for them. Feed is rather scarce. I named this creek
+and pool after the Honourable Arthur Blyth, Chief Secretary of South
+Australia.
+
+21st.
+Rested at camp. I took observations for time, intending to take several
+sets of lunars, but the day was cloudy, and I only managed to get one.
+Intend going ahead to-morrow in search of water.
+
+22nd.
+Started in company with Pierre to look for water ahead, steered a little
+north of east for about twelve miles to the points of the cliffs, and
+ascended a peak to get a view ahead. The line of cliff country ran
+North-East, and to the east, spinifex undulating country; nevertheless,
+as I wished to get a view of some of the hills shown on Mr. Gosse's map,
+I bore East and East-South-East for over thirty miles, but could not find
+a drop of water all day, and we had come nearly fifty miles. Camped on a
+small patch of feed. Very undulating spinifex country, and no place that
+would hold water, even after rain, for more than a day or two.
+
+23rd.
+Decided not to go any further, although I much wished to get a view
+further to the east, but our horses would have enough to do to carry us
+back. Steered north for a few miles, and then North-West for twenty
+miles, thence West-South-West to camp, which we reached after dark, not
+having had any water for ourselves or horses since we left it yesterday
+morning. The weather was very warm, and our horses were done up when they
+reached camp. On our return we got a fine view to the North-East, which
+looks more promising. My brother and Windich intend going to-morrow in
+that direction in search of water.
+
+24th.
+My brother and Windich started in search of water. We rested at camp.
+Took lunar observations, but did not get results which I care much to
+rely on, owing to the distances being too great.
+
+25th.
+Rested at camp. My brother and Windich did not return, so I have good
+hopes that they have found water ahead. Took several sets of lunars this
+evening. Barometer 28.80 at 5 p.m.; warm weather.
+
+26th (Sunday).
+Rested at camp. My brother and Windich returned late this evening, having
+been over sixty miles to the East-North-East, and having found only one
+small rock water-hole with water in it. Many rock holes had been seen,
+but all dry. They had met several natives. One woman and child they had
+caught and talked to. She did not seem frightened, and ate readily the
+damper and sugar given her. The country appears more parched than it has
+been, which I had thought scarcely possible. A range and flat-topped hill
+were seen about fifteen miles to the east of their farthest point, but
+they were unable to reach it. Barometer 28.70; fine.
+
+27th.
+Rested at Blyth Pool. Intend going a flying trip to-morrow. Worked out
+several lunar observations, and the position of Blyth Pool is in latitude
+26 degrees 1 minute, 50 seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 27 minutes
+East. Barometer 28.72; thermometer 67 degrees at 5 p.m.
+
+28th.
+Left camp in company with Windich to look for water ahead, taking a
+pack-horse and ten gallons of water, besides two small tins for our own
+use. Steered North-East nearly along my brother's tracks for twenty
+miles, and reached the water in the rock hole seen by him, and had
+dinner. In the afternoon continued on a little south of east for about
+seven miles. Camped without water for the horses on a small patch of old
+feed. The weather is dark and cloudy, and there is much thunder about. I
+expect rain this evening; if it comes it will be a great boon, and will
+enable us to travel on easily.
+
+TODD RANGE.
+
+29th.
+Rained lightly during the night; my rug got wet. Thinking we could get
+plenty of water ahead, I left the drums and water, as the horses would
+not drink. We steered about east over miserable spinifex country, and cut
+my brother's return tracks. Passed a rock hole seen by him, and found
+only a few pints of water in it, proving to us that very little rain had
+fallen. We sighted the range and hill seen by my brother, and reached it
+at sundown. I have named it the Todd Range, and the highest hill, which
+is table-topped, I have named Mount Charles, after Mr. C. Todd, C.M.G.,
+Postmaster-General of South Australia. No sign of water, and apparently
+very little rain has fallen here last night. Found an old natives'
+encampment, and two splendid rock holes quite dry; if full they would
+hold 700 or 800 gallons. Was very disappointed at this, and it being now
+after dark we camped without water for the horses, having travelled over
+forty miles. Before we reached the range we had most miserable spinifex
+sand-hills. Scarcely any feed in the range, and spinifex everywhere. What
+grass there is must be over two years old.
+
+30th.
+Very thick fog this morning. We bore north for four or five miles, and
+then South-East for about five miles, when we got a fine view to the
+east, and could see some hills, which are no doubt near Mr. Gosse's
+farthest west. They bore South-East about eighteen miles distant. I could
+not go on to them, as I was afraid the party would be following us, on
+the strength of the little rain we had the night before last.
+Reluctantly, therefore, we turned westward, and soon after came to an old
+native encampment with a rock hole quite dry, which would hold 1000
+gallons if full. It must be a long while since there has been rain, or it
+would not have been dry. We continued on, searching up and down and
+through the Todd Ranges, finding enough for our horses from the rain.
+Late in the afternoon we found another camping-place with four rock holes
+quite empty, which, if full, would hold 3000 or 4000 gallons at least.
+This was very disheartening, and we felt it very much. It appeared to us
+that there was no water in this country at this season, and we felt it
+was useless looking for it. We now decided to make back towards the
+party; but being uncertain that my brother would not follow, on the
+strength of the rain, determined to bear South-West until we struck our
+outward tracks. After going six miles, camped without water, and nothing
+but some old coarse scrub for the horses. One good shower of rain would
+enable us to get over this country easily; but in this season, without
+rain, it is quite impossible to move a number of horses.
+
+A NATIVE HUSBAND.
+
+31st.
+Steering about South-East towards our outward tracks, came across a
+native with his wife and two children, the youngest about two years old.
+As soon as they saw us, the man, who had a handful of spears, began
+talking at us and then ran off (the eldest child following him), leaving
+his wife and the youngest child to take care of themselves. The child was
+carried on its mother's back, and hung on without any assistance. Thus
+encumbered, the woman could not get away. She evidently preferred facing
+any danger to parting with her child. Windich spoke to her, and she
+talked away quietly, and did not seem much afraid. We could not
+understand anything she said, so allowed her to follow her husband, who
+certainly did not come up to our standard of gallantry. We continued on
+until we reached our outward tracks, and I was much relieved to find that
+the party had not gone on. We found a little water in a small rock hole,
+and rested two hours, as our pack-horse (Little Brown) was knocked up. We
+continued on about five miles, and camped on a patch of feed in a range,
+without water. Little Brown was so knocked up that we had great
+difficulty in getting him to walk.
+
+August 1st.
+Steering westerly for about eight miles, reached our bivouac of the 28th,
+and gave our horses the water from the drums. Continued on, making
+straight for camp; stayed two hours to give the horses a rest, and when
+within fifteen miles of camp found a rock hole with about 100 gallons of
+water in it. Little Brown completely gave in, and we were obliged to
+leave him. Pushed on and reached the party a little after dark, and found
+all well, having been absent five days, in which time we had travelled
+about 200 miles.
+
+2nd (Sunday).
+My brother and Pierre went on a flying trip to the South-East in search
+of water. Kennedy and myself went and brought Little Brown and
+pack-saddle, etc., to camp. Windich shot an emu; saw about twenty.
+Thermometer 95 degrees in sun during the day; barometer 28.62 at 5 p.m.
+
+PREPARING FOR A STRUGGLE.
+
+I now began to be much troubled about our position, although I did not
+communicate my fears to any but my brother. We felt confident we could
+return if the worst came, although we were over 1000 miles from the
+settled districts of Western Australia. The water at our camp was fast
+drying up, and would not last more than a fortnight. The next water was
+sixty miles back, and there seemed no probability of getting eastward. I
+knew we were now in the very country that had driven Mr. Gosse back. I
+have since found it did the same for Mr. Giles. No time was to be lost. I
+was determined to make the best use of it if only the water would last,
+and to keep on searching. (Even now, months after the time, sitting down
+writing this journal, I cannot but recall my feelings of anxiety at this
+camp.) Just when the goal of my ambition and my hopes for years past was
+almost within reach, it appeared that I might not even now be able to
+grasp it. The thought of having to return, however, brought every feeling
+of energy and determination to my rescue, and I felt that, with God's
+help, I would even now succeed. I gave instructions to allowance the
+party, so that the stores should last at least four months, and made
+every preparation for a last desperate struggle.
+
+3rd.
+Rested at camp. My brother and Pierre did not return this evening, so I
+concluded they must have found some water for their horses. Barometer
+falling slowly; getting cloudy towards evening.
+
+4th.
+A light shower of rain this morning. Rested at camp. My brother and
+Pierre returned this evening, having found a few small rock water-holes,
+but not sufficient to shift on. They had been about fifty miles
+East-South-East, and had passed over most miserable spinifex country the
+whole way. They had not had any rain, not even the light shower we had
+this morning. They had seen four natives, but did not get near enough to
+talk to them. I intend going with Windich ahead to-morrow, in the hope
+that rain may have fallen last night to the East-North-East. The weather,
+which had looked threatening all day, cleared off this evening. Barometer
+28.56.
+
+THE BAKER RANGE.
+
+5th.
+Thinking that rain might have fallen to the North-East, I left camp with
+Windich to ascertain, instructing my brother to follow on the 7th; before
+leaving to bury some flour and everything that could be dispensed with,
+and to carry all the drums full of water. He has since informed me that
+he buried on left bank of brook, seven yards north of a small tree with a
+tin plate nailed on it, on which is written, DIG 7 yds. N., two
+pack-bags, containing 135 pounds flour, six leather water-bottles, two
+tomahawks, one pick, one water canteen, one broken telescope, three emu
+eggs, some girths and straps, one shoeing hammer, one pound of candles,
+and left a lantern hanging on a tree. A bottle was also buried, with a
+letter in it, giving the latitude and longitude of the camp, and a brief
+outline of our former and future intended movements. We reached the rock
+holes about North-East twenty miles, and were delighted to see them full,
+besides plenty on the rocks. This was very encouraging, and after resting
+two hours we pushed on East-North-East, to a range visited by my brother
+on his last flying trip, and which I named the Baker Range, and the
+highest point Mount Samuel, after Sir Samuel Baker, the great African
+Explorer, and could see that lately rain had fallen, although much more
+in some places than in others. Travelled till after dark through and over
+spinifex plains, wooded with acacia and mulga scrub, and camped without
+water and only a little scrub for the horses, having travelled nearly
+forty miles.
+
+6th.
+Our horses strayed during the night. After we had found them we proceeded
+to the Baker Range and found water in a gully on some rocks, and the rock
+holes seen by my brother and Windich on their former trip had also a good
+deal in them. I was greatly delighted at this; there must have been a
+good shower or two here. Before reaching water Windich shot a turkey,
+which we roasted and ate for breakfast, not having had any tea last
+night. We rested here about two hours. Continuing on East-North-East for
+about sixteen miles, came to the four large rock holes seen by Windich
+and myself on our former trip. They were quite dry, but, as we suspected,
+there was a good deal of water in a rocky gully close by. About two miles
+before we reached here we passed a rock hole full of water, about sixty
+gallons. I left a note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night,
+and to follow on our tracks on Monday. We continued on about five miles,
+and camped not far from Mount Charles, without water for the horses; but
+they were not thirsty. So far we have been most fortunate, although there
+is very little to fall back on should we be unable to proceed; in fact,
+as soon as the surface water dries up it will be impossible. We are,
+however, three days in advance of the party, and if we can get enough for
+our two riding-horses we shall be able to stop them before there is any
+great danger, although we may lose some of the horses.
+
+7th.
+Steered South-South-East for about four miles to two large rock holes
+seen by Windich and myself on our former trip, but found them quite dry,
+as before. Continued on South-East towards the hills seen by us formerly,
+and, after travelling about ten miles, got a fine view of the country,
+which looked splendid. High hills and ranges as far as could be seen to
+the south and east, and we thought all our troubles were over. We pushed
+on about East-South-East to a high hill about ten miles off, over red
+sand-hills covered with spinifex. Country of the most miserable
+description. We reached the hill, which I named Mount Harvest, after
+Colonel Harvest, the Acting-Governor of Western Australia at the time of
+our departure, and who took a great interest in the expedition. We
+ascended the hill; more ranges and hills were seen--in fact, the whole
+country was one mass of hills and ranges to the south, South-East, and
+east. We followed down gullies and over hills, passing two rock holes
+dry, until after dark, but could not find any water. The country is most
+beautifully grassed, and is a great relief after travelling over so many
+hundreds of miles of spinifex; but the season is very dry, and all the
+gullies are dry. We camped for the night without water for ourselves or
+horses. I have since learnt that these ranges were seen by Mr. Giles, and
+were named the Warburton Ranges.
+
+SIGNS OF WHITE MEN.
+
+8th.
+Early this morning Windich and I went on foot to search the hills and
+gullies close around, as our horses were knocked up for want of water. We
+returned unsuccessful about 8 o'clock. Close to where we found our horses
+we found a tree with the bark cut off one side of it with an AXE which
+was sharp. We were sure it was done by a white man, as the axe, even if
+possessed by a native (which is very improbable), would be blunt. We are
+now in the country traversed by Mr. Gosse, although I am unable to
+distinguish any of the features of the country, not having a map with me,
+and not knowing the latitude. Should we find water, and the party reach
+here, there will no doubt be little difficulty in distinguishing the
+hills. The country certainly does not answer the description given of his
+farther westward. However, I will leave our position geographically for
+the present, and treat of what is of much more importance to us, namely,
+the finding of water. We saddled our horses and continued our search
+about South-East, over hills and along valleys--the distance or direction
+I am unable to give--our horses scarcely moving, and ourselves parched
+with thirst. The sun was very hot. At about noon we found some water in a
+gully by scratching a hole, but it was quite salt. As our horses would
+not drink it, it can be imagined how salt it was. We drank about a pint
+of it, and Windich said it was the first time he ever had to drink salt
+water. I washed myself in it, which refreshed me a little. Our horses
+could not go much further without water, but we crawled along about
+north, and shortly afterwards found a small rock hole in the side of a
+large rough granite hill, with about five gallons of good water in it. We
+had a good drink ourselves, put half a gallon into a canteen, and gave
+the rest to the horses. From here our usual good fortune returned. We had
+not gone far when Windich called me back and said he had found horses'
+tracks, and sure enough there were the tracks of horses coming from the
+westward. Windich took some of the old dung with him to convince our
+companions that we had seen them. We followed westward along the tracks
+for half a mile, when we found two or three small rock holes with water
+in them, which our horses drank. Still bearing to the north we kept
+finding little drops in the granite rocks--our old friend the granite
+rock has returned to us again, after having been absent for several
+hundred miles. We satisfied our horses, and rested a short time to have
+something to eat, not having had anything for forty-eight hours. We bore
+North-West, and soon afterwards found a fine rock hole of water in
+granite rocks, sufficient to last the party a day. Plenty of water on
+rocks, also, from recent rain here. We were rejoiced, as we now had a
+place to bring the party to. But our good fortune did not end here:
+continuing on westerly or a little north of it, we came on a summer
+encampment of the natives, and found a native well or spring, which I
+believe would give water if dug out. This may make a good depot if we
+require to stay long in this neighbourhood. We were overjoyed; and I need
+not add I was very thankful for this good fortune. When everything looked
+at its worst, then all seemed to change for our benefit. We camped two
+miles from the water.
+
+9th (Sunday).
+Took the horses back to the water, and on our way there found a clay-pan
+with a few hundred gallons of water in it. Started back to meet the
+party, intending to await their arrival at the first range we came to on
+our outward track. Steering a little north of west for fourteen miles, we
+camped on west side of Mount Harvest, not having seen a drop of water on
+our way. Luckily we brought nearly half a gallon with us, so shall be
+able to manage until the party overtake us to-morrow. Our horses will be
+very thirsty, but I will give them five gallons each out of the drums.
+Shot a wurrung on our way, which we had for dinner. Found two fine rock
+holes quite empty. There appears to have been no rain here, although
+fifteen miles east there has been a good deal. I hope the change of moon
+on the 11th will bring us some rain, as we shall then be able to travel
+along easily. My personal appearance contrasts most strikingly with town
+life--very dirty, and I may say ragged. I scarcely think my friends would
+know me. Washing, or brushing one's hair is out of the question, unless
+when resting at camp.
+
+10th.
+We stayed at our last night's bivouac until 12 o'clock, when we saddled
+up and followed back along our outward tracks to meet the party, which we
+expected to find this afternoon. About 3 o'clock met them coming on, all
+well. They were all rejoiced to hear of the water ahead. We gave the
+horses water out of the drums, and turned eastward with them. We reached
+Mount Harvest by sundown, the party having travelled thirty miles, and
+camped on grassy flat without water for the horses. Latitude 25 degrees
+55 minutes 43 seconds South by Altair, longitude 126 degrees 32 minutes
+East. Everything had gone on first-rate with the party. They had nearly
+finished all the water at Mount Samuel, and in the Todd Range, so that we
+cannot now turn back, even if we wished, unless with the risk of having
+to go ninety or a hundred miles without water.
+
+FINDING TRACKS.
+
+11th.
+Continued on to the water found ahead, and on our way saw some clay-holes
+with water and satisfied the horses. When near the spring, saw natives'
+tracks, and shortly afterwards a fire with a whole kangaroo roasting in
+it. The natives had made off when they saw us, leaving their game
+cooking. Continuing on, and passing the native well, we reached the
+granite rocks, two miles from the spring, and camped. While having dinner
+we saw two natives about a quarter of a mile from us, watching us; we
+beckoned to them, and Windich and I approached them. As we neared them
+they began talking and moving off slowly; we could not get close to them,
+although they did not appear to be afraid of us. Some fine ranges are
+visible from here South-East. Latitude of camp 25 degrees 54 minutes 53
+seconds South, by meridian altitude of Altair. Marked a tree F 70, being
+the 70th camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.26 at 5 p.m. We are not in the
+latitude of Mr. Gosse's track by fifteen miles, yet there are tracks only
+about two miles south of us! I cannot account for this. The tracks may be
+Mr. Giles's, as I cannot think Mr. Gosse could be out in his latitude.
+
+12th.
+Left camp with Tommy Windich to find water ahead, instructing my brother
+to follow on to-morrow. We bore East-South-East for a few miles over
+grassy flats towards some high hills, but, seeing what we supposed a good
+spot for water, we turned east towards it, over miserable spinifex
+sand-hills, and found some splendid granite rocks and holes, but not much
+water--enough, however, to give the horses a drink. If there was rain,
+there would be enough water here for a month or more. Near these rocks
+found a tree resembling the figtree (Ficus Platypoda), with ripe fruit
+about the size of a bullet, which tasted very much like a fig. I ate some
+of the fruit, which was very good. Fine hills and ranges to the eastward,
+and country very promising, and in many places beautifully grassed. After
+resting two hours we pushed on about east, and, after going five miles
+over spinifex sand-hills, came to a granite range and found two fine rock
+holes, sufficient to satisfy the horses. Continuing on, we camped close
+to a peaked granite hill, which I named Mount Elvire. No water for the
+horses. Found the old horse-tracks, just before we camped, coming from
+eastward. I cannot make them out to be Mr. Gosse's; they must be Mr.
+Giles's. There appears to be a great number of horses', but am uncertain
+if there are any camel-tracks.
+
+IN SAFETY.
+
+13th.
+Found a rock hole with about forty gallons of water in it close to camp.
+After watering our horses we followed along the old tracks, going nearly
+North-East, and passed a gnow's nest, where they had apparently got out
+eggs. Shortly afterwards found where the party had camped without water,
+and continued on to some high hills and ranges; then we left them to
+follow some emu tracks, which, after following up a gully and over a
+hill, brought us to a fine spring of good water in a gully. We camped
+here, and intend waiting for our party, which will reach here to-morrow.
+We watched at the water for emus, and after waiting about four hours saw
+two coming, one of which Windich shot. Fine grass, although old and dry,
+down this gully. Ranges in every direction. The country contrasts
+strikingly with what we have been travelling through for the last three
+months. The party whose tracks we followed this morning have not been to
+this spring, so they must have missed it. All my troubles were now over,
+inasmuch as I felt sure we would accomplish our journey and reach the
+settled districts of South Australia; although, as it afterwards proved,
+we had many days of hard work and some privation yet to endure. Still the
+country was much improved, and not altogether unknown. I then gave out
+publicly to the party that we were now in safety, and in all human
+probability in five or six weeks would reach the telegraph line. I need
+not add how pleased all were at having at last bridged over that awful,
+desolate spinifex desert.
+
+14th.
+Went to a hill close to camp, the highest in this neighbourhood, and
+erected a pile of stones. About 1 o'clock the party arrived all safe.
+They reported having seen three natives the day we left, and had induced
+them to come to camp, and had given them damper and sugar and a red
+handkerchief each; they did not remain long. Each had two spears, very
+long and thick, and made out of three pieces spliced together, with large
+barbs on them. The party had finished all the water on their way, the
+horses yesterday having drank over ten gallons each. This afternoon I
+took a round of angles and bearings from a pile of stones on the hill.
+Marked a tree F 72, near spring, which I named Barlee Spring, after the
+Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary of Western Australia, from
+whom I have ever received much kindness and assistance, and who took a
+great interest in this expedition. A remarkable hill bore
+South-South-West from spring, which I named Mount Palgrave. Barlee Spring
+is in longitude about 127 degrees 22 minutes East. Unable to get
+latitude: too cloudy.
+
+15th.
+Left camp with Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my brother to
+follow to-morrow. Steered East along the South side of a rocky range for
+ten miles, when we ascended a hill to get a view ahead. About thirty
+miles to east fine bold ranges are visible, also broken ranges from
+North-East and round to South-East; they are no doubt the Cavanagh Ranges
+of Mr. Gosse. About five miles ahead we saw some granite rocks, to which
+we proceeded, and found a tremendous rock hole full of water; it was in
+between two large rocks and completely shaded from the sun. As the
+country east to the ranges appears to be all spinifex and red sand-hills,
+I decided to remain here to-night and continue on in the morning. Left a
+note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night. In the afternoon
+got a fine round of angles from granite rocks. The country passed over
+to-day was along and through ranges which are no doubt the Barrow Ranges
+of Mr. Gosse. The flats are very grassy, but the hills are covered with
+spinifex. My brother marked a tree at this camp F 73, and observed the
+latitude to be about 26 degrees 4 minutes, but was unable to get very
+good observation on account of clouds. The Ficus Platypoda was also found
+here, loaded with ripe fruit.
+
+GILES'S CAMP.
+
+16th (Sunday).
+Steering about East-North-East towards the ranges, we passed over very
+miserable spinifex plains and red sand-hills the whole way, about thirty
+miles. After reaching the ranges we followed up a fine grassy wide flat,
+splendidly grassed, although old; and on the flat were innumerable
+horse-tracks--unmistakable evidence of horses being camped for months in
+this neighbourhood. Kept on up the gully and flat for about a mile and a
+half, when Windich found a gum-tree marked E. GILES OCT. 7, 73. My former
+suspicions that Mr. Giles must have been in this neighbourhood were now
+confirmed. Soon after we came on a cart-track, which rather astonished
+us, and soon found that it must have belonged to Mr. Gosse, who also
+camped close here. A deep, well-beaten track went along up the gully,
+which we followed, knowing it was the daily track of the horses to the
+water, and soon after found their old camp at a beautiful spring running
+down the gully a quarter of a mile. A stock-yard had been built, and
+gardens made, besides a large bush hut to shelter the party from the sun
+as well as rain. Trenches were dug round the hut and tent, so that they
+must have had rain. I should say Mr. Giles must have been camped here for
+two or three months at least. We camped half a mile down the gully from
+the spring. Mr. Gosse and Mr. Giles were within a few miles of each other
+at the same time, and did not meet.
+
+17th.
+Went for a walk to examine the cart-tracks; found two tracks going east
+and west. This convinced me that the cart belonged to Mr. Gosse, who I
+knew had returned. Went to the top of a high hill to take angles, while
+Windich tried to shoot a kangaroo. After a hard climb I reached the
+summit, and had just commenced taking angles when I heard three shots,
+and shortly after Windich cooeying. Looking round, I saw a native running
+along about 300 yards from me. He disappeared in a hollow. Fearing that
+Windich had been attacked by the natives I descended towards him as
+quickly as possible, but could not see him. I looked about, keeping a
+sharp look-out, expecting to be attacked, but could not find Windich. Sat
+down a short time and finally made my way back to the horses, and, after
+finding them, saddled one and started back to look for Windich. Found him
+coming along with a kangaroo on his back, having shot three, but had not
+seen any natives; he had been waiting for me a good while. After dinner I
+went back to get my coat and a compass left at the foot of the hill, and
+then again ascended the hill and got a fine round of angles. The rock is
+very magnetic, and the compass is quite useless. Could see the dust from
+the party coming across the spinifex sand-hills, and, descending, met
+them just before sundown.
+
+ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
+
+They reported having had an encounter with the natives on the 16th, and
+having been followed by a number of armed natives for a long way. Finally
+they had been compelled to fire on them, but had not killed any. They
+were glad to hear of the spring found, and, continuing on, reached it
+about half-past 6 o'clock. The spring is Fort Mueller of Mr. Giles, where
+he was camped for a long while, and his most westerly permanent water. By
+observation Fort Mueller is in latitude 26 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds
+South, and longitude by lunar observation 128 degrees East, the variation
+being about 1 degree 25 minutes East by azimuths.
+
+18th.
+Rested at spring. Marked a tree sixty yards south of camp F 74, being
+74th camp from Geraldton. Also erected a pile of stones on peak, thirty
+chains West-South-West of camp, with a pole in centre, on which is
+marked:
+
+J. FORREST, AUGUST 17, '74.
+
+Took four sets of lunars, which place spring in longitude 128 degrees
+East of Greenwich.
+
+19th.
+Steering East-South-East along Mr. Gosse's track for about thirty-five
+miles, over most miserable sandy hills and plains of spinifex, with the
+exception of a few miles at first, along a grassy flat. Two rock holes
+passed were quite dry. Camped without water on a grassy flat not far from
+the ranges; hope to find water early to-morrow, as our horses are too
+poor to go long without it. Was obliged to abandon police-horse Brick
+to-day, as he was completely done up. Nothing but downright poverty is
+the cause of his giving in; and the same in the case of Fame and Little
+Padbury, which we abandoned over a month ago. They were poor when they
+left, and have only had very dry grass ever since. It is a wonder to me
+they all do not give in, as many are mere skeletons. Poor old Brick held
+up as long as he could, but was forced to give in, and we had to leave
+him to his solitary fate; he will probably go back to the spring (Fort
+Mueller). Barometer 28.30; latitude 26 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds
+South.
+
+20th.
+Got a very early start, and continued on. At one mile found a sandy soak
+in a gully, and by digging it out got sufficient water for all our
+horses. Still proceeding onwards, following a gully for two miles, came
+to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 13, at Skirmish Hill. A bullock had been
+killed here, and the flesh jerked. Found a large white gum-tree marked
+GOS. 13 at camp. All the water was gone. I, however, camped, and took our
+horses to a place a mile west, where, by digging in the sand, we got
+enough for them. Went with Pierre to the summit of Skirmish Hill, and
+took angles. To the south, nothing but sand-hills and spinifex; to the
+North-East the Tomkinson Ranges showed up and looked very remarkable and
+promising. Marked a tree F 76, being 76th camp from Geraldton. Camp is in
+latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 28 seconds, longitude about 128 degrees 32
+minutes East.
+
+TOMKINSON RANGES.
+
+21st.
+Left camp at Skirmish Hill in company with Windich, instructing my
+brother to follow to-morrow. Found a fine rock hole two miles from camp,
+and followed along Mr. Gosse's track for twenty miles to the Tomkinson
+Ranges, over most miserable sandy ridges, covered with spinifex. Fine
+grassy flats along and through the ranges. We left the track to examine a
+gully to the north, but could not find any water. Got on the track just
+before dark and followed it along a few miles. Camped without water for
+our horses on a fine flat of very old grass. Windich's horse completely
+knocked up, and we had to walk and drive him before us this afternoon.
+The day was excessively hot, and the horses are very thirsty. We have
+only about a quart ourselves.
+
+ELDER SPRINGS.
+
+22nd.
+Early this morning we continued on, Windich's horse scarcely able to
+walk. After about ten miles, found a rock hole with three gallons of
+water in it, which we gave to our horses. Followed Mr. Gosse's track to
+see if there was any water about his depot Number 12, but we either
+missed it or had not reached it. About noon Windich's horse could go no
+farther, and mine was not much better. What was to be done? We nearly
+finished what water we had with us. The party were coming on to-day, and
+were depending on us to find water. I determined not to follow the track
+any farther, but to search for water ourselves. The horses were unable to
+move; we therefore decided to leave them and go for a search on foot.
+Windich said he had seen emu tracks, and he thought they were making
+south. We therefore started on foot. The sun's heat was excessive. About
+3 o'clock returned unsuccessful, and finished what water we had with us.
+What next to do was the question; no time was to be lost. Mr. Gosse's map
+showed some gullies ahead, but whether there was any water in them was
+questionable; he states, "Nearly all the waters discovered in the Mann
+and Tomkinson Ranges were running when left, and from a considerable
+height." It must have been a good season, and not like this. We decided
+to go on foot to a gully about two miles north, which had white gums in
+it. We started off and saw more emu tracks going and coming, also
+natives' tracks. Windich shot a wurrung, which he said had lately drunk
+water. When we reached the gully, many tracks were seen ascending it, and
+we felt sure we should find water, and surely enough we soon reached a
+most splendid spring, running down the gully half a mile. We were elated
+and very thankful. Windich got a shot at an emu, but missed it. After
+having a good drink we went back and got our horses, reaching the spring
+with them after dark. They were very thirsty and completely done up. Mr.
+Gosse missed this spring; probably there was water on the flats when he
+was here, and he did not look much. Although his track is easily
+followed, we had nearly got into serious difficulty by following it. Had
+we not found this spring our position would be very critical, not having
+any water for ourselves or horses, and the party in the same predicament.
+I will be careful not to follow the track too far in future, but to trust
+to our own resources and look for ourselves. We feel sure we passed water
+this morning, as in one place we saw emu tracks and pigeons. The party
+will reach here to-morrow, and I feel very thankful and relieved to have
+such a fine spring to bring them to. The feed is good a mile down from
+the spring, although it is very old and dry. There has not been any rain
+to speak of since Mr. Gosse was here, nearly twelve months ago, as can be
+seen by the cart-tracks crossing the gullies. I named this spring the
+Elder Springs, after my friend the Honourable Thomas Elder, who has been
+such a great supporter of exploration, and from whom I received a great
+deal of kindness and attention.
+
+23rd (Sunday).
+Awaited the arrival of the party. Shot an emu; and, while skinning it,
+heard a gun-shot, and soon after saw Kennedy coming on, walking. Found
+that the party were only half a mile off. They had been very distressed
+for water, and had left 120 pounds of flour and a pack-saddle five miles
+back, Taylor's mare about three miles back, and Burges and his saddle two
+miles back. When they saw my note, directing them to the water, they had
+gone back and got Burges, and with great difficulty got him close to
+camp, when he lay down and they left him. Windich and I started back on
+foot at once with two buckets of water, and met Burges within a quarter
+of a mile of camp, crawling along; we gave him the water and he then went
+on to the spring. We went back and found Taylor's mare, and brought her
+slowly to camp. We are now safe again, and I must give the horses a few
+days' rest. The weather has been hot, and if we had not found this
+spring, not more than five horses would have lasted out the day. I will
+send back and get the flour, as it is only five miles off. The party were
+all very glad to see such a fine spring, as their position was very
+dangerous, having only three gallons of water with them altogether.
+
+24th.
+Rested at Elder Spring. Found the barometer had got broken, which I was
+very sorry for. Worked out several lunars taken on the 11th at Giles's
+camp.
+
+25th.
+Worked out the remainder of the lunars. Marked a large white gum-tree
+close to camp, on left bank of Elder Springs, F 78, being the 78th camp
+from Geraldton. Found camp to be in south latitude 26 degrees 15 minutes
+10 seconds and longitude about 129 degrees 9 minutes East. My brother and
+Pierre went back and brought up the flour left five miles back on the
+23rd.
+
+MOUNT JANE.
+
+26th.
+Went with Pierre to a high peak, which I named Mount Jane, about four
+miles South-South-East from camp, and got a round of angles, and a fine
+view of the country. To the east high ranges and grassy flats, but to the
+south, and from South-East to west, nothing but level country with a few
+low rises here and there, apparently sand-hills covered with
+spinifex--most miserable country.
+
+27th.
+Left camp with Tommy Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my
+brother to follow to-morrow. Steered east for four miles, when we struck
+Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed along it a few miles, when we bore more
+to the north; then in the direction of emu tracks, and passed along a
+fine grassy flat with hundreds of kangaroos in every direction; also many
+emu tracks. We were sure we were getting close to water. A little farther
+on saw about twenty-five emus, and soon reached a spring in the brook,
+and camped for dinner. Concluded to remain here the remainder of the day.
+Went for a walk higher up the brook and found another spring, about one
+mile from the first. Returned and took our horses up to it, as there was
+better feed there. Left a note, telling the party to camp there also. In
+a good season these flats must look magnificent; at this time they are
+very dry, but there is a good deal of old grass on them. My brother
+marked a tree at spring F 79, which he found to be in latitude 26 degrees
+13 minutes. I named this spring Wilkie Spring, after the Honourable Dr.
+Wilkie, the honorary treasurer of the Burke and Wills Exploration Fund,
+who took such a lively interest in Australian Exploration.
+
+28th.
+Continued on eastward and soon struck Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed it
+along about seven miles, passing Mount Davies, when we bore more to the
+south. Following the direction of some natives' tracks, and after going
+about two miles, found a native well in a gully, where water could be
+procured by digging. Left a note telling my brother to dig it out and see
+if he could get enough for the horses. We continued on about
+East-North-East, and soon after shot a kangaroo and rested an hour for
+dinner, after which we bore about North-East towards a gully and white
+gums, and found it to be Nilens Gully of Mr. Gosse. Found his camp and a
+white gum marked with a broad arrow, but no water. We followed along and
+through the ranges, twisting and turning about, and at last found a
+number of natives' tracks, making towards a gap, and, following along
+them, found they led to a gorge and white gum gully, ascending which we
+found water in some little springs. After watering our horses we returned
+towards the party three miles and camped, intending to bring the party to
+the spring to-morrow.
+
+FRIENDLY NATIVES.
+
+29th.
+Returned about five miles and met the party coming on all right. They
+reported having met about twenty natives yesterday, who were friendly,
+and who came to them, first of all laying down their spears. They had
+given them damper and a handkerchief. Pierre gave them two kylies. They
+had three kangaroos roasting in their fire. When we were passing Nilens
+gully I saw a native running, and, calling Windich, we went over and saw
+five natives sitting on some rocks watching us. I went towards them; at
+first they appeared hostile, but after talking at them and making signs
+they began to be friendly and came down close to us. They were all armed
+with spears. One of them gave me his spear, which was very blunt, and I
+sharpened it for him. He made signs for me to give him the knife, but I
+could not, as we were very short of knives. They were afraid at first
+when I showed them how a horse could gallop, but soon were very pleased
+and laughed heartily. Windich shot a chockalott and gave it to them. They
+were amazed at seeing the bird drop, and were very pleased when it was
+given to them, as they much prize the feathers of these birds. After this
+we left them and continued on to the spring found yesterday, and camped.
+Got plenty of water by digging a few holes in the springy places. Marked
+a tree F 80 in gorge close to spring. Found spring to be in latitude 26
+degrees 7 minutes 28 seconds South, longitude about 129 degrees 39
+minutes east.
+
+THE MANN RANGES.
+
+30th (Sunday).
+Rested at spring. Took bearings from hill close to spring, Mount Hardy
+bearing north 117 degrees east magnetic, and Mount Davies north 253
+degrees east magnetic. The Mann Ranges were also clearly visible about
+ten miles off. In the afternoon Windich found a fine spring in a gully
+about half a mile north of camp, at which he shot an emu. I named these
+springs the Crowther Springs, after my friend Mr. Charles Crowther, of
+Geraldton. Emus and kangaroos very numerous in these ranges.
+
+31st.
+Got an early start and took the horses to the water found by Windich
+yesterday, where they could help themselves. Steered East-North-East
+about, over level country; spinifex generally, studded with desert oaks,
+with limestone and snail-shells on surface for about twenty miles.
+Reached the Mann Ranges. Before we reached the ranges we struck Mr.
+Gosse's track, and followed it along, and shortly came to a very large
+and recent encampment of the natives. There must have been a hundred
+camped here about a week ago. Found two small springs not far off, but
+not strong enough to water all our horses; but we soon found some fine
+springy pools in a gully about half a mile further on, where Mr. Gosse
+also had been camped, and marked a tree with a broad arrow. I marked on
+the same tree F 81, being our 81st camp from Geraldton. Mr. Gosse's
+return track leaves his outward track at this spot. I intend following
+his return track and make in to the telegraph line, down the Alberga, and
+on to the Peake. There is abundance of water at this place, which I have
+no doubt is permanent, as there are four springs within half a mile of
+one another, but three are very small. Took bearings from a very high
+range close by; Mount Davies, Mount Edwin, and Mount Hardy being visible.
+The Mann Ranges are very high and rough, and are composed of reddish
+granite. They are the highest ranges met with since leaving Mount Hale
+and Mount Gould, on the Murchison. Found camp F 81 to be in latitude 26
+degrees 3 minutes 20 seconds South by meridian altitude of Altair and
+Vega, and longitude about 129 degrees 53 minutes East.
+
+September 1st.
+Continuing about east along the foot of the Mann Ranges for about fifteen
+miles, came to Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 11th, but could find no
+water; a well that had been dug in the sand was dry. Followed up the
+gully about a mile, and came to a small spring, and camped. After
+draining it out, found there was no supply, but were fortunate enough to
+find some large rock holes with water--no doubt soakages from the
+rocks--but they were in an almost inaccessible spot, and it was with
+great difficulty we managed to water the horses. One horse fell and
+nearly lost his life. Country passed over to-day was poorly grassed, and
+spinifex patches here and there. Large and recent native encampments seen
+in two places to-day. Latitude 26 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds South.
+Marked a tree F 82, close to our bivouac in bed of gully.
+
+2nd.
+Followed along south side of Mann Ranges over country pretty well grassed
+for about sixteen miles, and reached Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 12th.
+Found a little water in a sandy hole, and a small spring about half a
+mile higher up the gully. We had to carry the water from the spring in
+drums, which was slow and hard work. When we had watered half of the
+horses, Windich came, having found great pools of water in a large rocky
+gully about a mile west; we therefore packed up again and went over to
+the water. It was a very rough and rocky gully, and the horses had hard
+work in getting up to it, but there was abundance when they reached it.
+Pools of water, rock bottom; in fact, rock reservoirs, and fed by
+springs. It was nearly night when we had finished watering. Windich shot
+four ducks. Found camp to be in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes South.
+Marked a tree F 83, being 83rd camp from Geraldton.
+
+ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
+
+3rd.
+Got a late start, owing to the horses rambling. We continued on easterly
+and reached Day's Gully, Mr. Gosse's Number 15 depot. The water was all
+gone, and we had to proceed. Followed his track along two miles, when
+Windich and I went in search of water, the party waiting our return.
+After searching a gully to the west without success, we went east to a
+bare granite hill and, passing through a gorge, emerged into a small
+flat, and saw about 100 natives, all sitting down eating kangaroos. As
+soon as they saw us they all rose and shouted, and many ran towards us
+with their spears. One spear came close to me, and stuck fast in the
+ground. Windich and I fired our revolvers at them several times, and
+chased them up the hill. After this they appeared more friendly, and some
+came towards us and followed us back towards the party, keeping about 200
+yards behind. We reached them and went back to the natives; they were
+perched all over the hills, more than twenty on one rock. They were
+friendly now, and about thirty came to us who talked away and seemed very
+pleased. They were much afraid of the horses, and would not come near
+them. We made the natives understand we wanted water, and about forty
+conducted us to a rock hole with nearly fifty gallons in it, which we
+gave the horses. The natives laughed heartily when they saw us watering
+the horses, but much more when we hit them to drive them away. They were
+also delighted that Windich and Pierre were black, and marked about the
+body, and also at Pierre having his nose bored. They would not come with
+us further, and pointed towards water westward. We did not follow their
+direction, and continuing on easterly, camped without water, and only
+very old dried grass for our horses. We were obliged to abandon the mare
+supplied by Mr. John Taylor to-day, together with about 150 pounds of
+flour, also the pack-saddle. She is very near foaling, and is very weak;
+she has carried only the empty bags for some time, and has been gradually
+failing. She is a fine mare, and I am sorry to lose her, but we cannot
+help it. We have more flour than we require, so I decided to leave 150
+pounds, as our horses are not able to carry it easily. We have over 3
+hundredweight still, which will be quite sufficient. Tomorrow I intend
+pushing on to try and reach the spring in the Musgrave Range shown on Mr.
+Gosse's chart. It is about forty miles from here, and I have no doubt the
+horses will go there, although they are very weak. The natives met to-day
+were all circumcised; they had long hair and beards, which were all
+clotted and in strands. The strands were covered with filth and dirt for
+six inches from the end, and looked like greased rope; it was as hard as
+rope, and dangled about their necks, looking most disgustingly filthy.
+The men were generally fine-looking fellows. The natives are very
+numerous in this country, as fires and camps are seen in many places,
+besides well-beaten tracks. Pierre dropped his powder-flask, and one of
+them picked it up and gave it to him. They were very friendly and
+pleased, and I think, after the first surprise was over, only a few were
+hostile. They were much amused at my watch ticking, and all wanted to put
+their ears to hear it.
+
+SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSES.
+
+4th.
+The horses would not feed last night, and had to be watched. At 4 o'clock
+we got up and collected them, and got under way by half-past 5 o'clock,
+following on towards the Musgrave Ranges. The morning was cool, and the
+horses went along very well. After travelling about twenty miles Padbury
+and Butcher began to show signs of giving in. We still pushed on, in hope
+of finding water in Lungley's Gully; the sun shone out very hot in the
+afternoon. Passed a remarkable high peak, which I named Mount Mary. My
+brother, Sweeney, and Pierre were behind with the knocked-up horses,
+trying to get them along. Windich went on Hosken, the only horse that was
+strong enough, to the north to scour some valleys. Kennedy and I pushed
+along slowly with the main lot of horses. If we halted a minute, many of
+the horses lay down, and we had great difficulty in getting them up
+again. After travelling about thirty-one miles we reached a gully which I
+supposed was Lungley's, and I left Kennedy with the horses while I
+ascended it on foot. I soon saw many emu tracks, and therefore was
+positive water was a little higher up. Found Windich was about 100 yards
+in advance of me, having crossed over into the same gully. I soon heard
+him shout that there was abundance of water, and fired the welcome
+gun-shots to acquaint the party. Returned, and after lifting up some of
+the horses that had lain down, and met my brother with the knocked-up
+ones, we all proceeded up to the water, which we found to be a beautiful
+spring running down the gully about thirty chains. We were all rejoiced
+at this good fortune, as we never before wanted water more than at the
+present time. Mr. Gosse had camped here, his depot Number 16, and I
+wonder he does not show such a fine spring on his map. We are now in
+perfect safety, and I will give the horses two days' rest.
+
+5th.
+Rested at spring. Windich and Pierre shot three emus; a great many came
+to water. Being nearly out of meat, we are glad to get them.
+
+6th (Sunday).
+Took bearings from a hill about a mile east of camp, from which there was
+a very extensive view. Far as the eye could reach to south, level plains
+extended, with low hills rising abruptly out of them here and there; to
+the west the Deering Hills and Mann Ranges; while to the east the high
+Musgrave Ranges soon stopped the view. The whole country is level, the
+ranges rising abruptly out of the plains, and is not like the hilly
+country in the settled districts of Western Australia. Marked a tree
+close to the camp F 85, being 85th camp from Geraldton. Found camp to be
+in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 25 seconds by meridian altitude of
+Altair, and longitude about 131 degrees 3 minutes east.
+
+GOSSE'S SPRING.
+
+7th.
+Left spring, and steering about east for seven miles along foot of
+Musgrave Ranges, when we turned North-North-East for four miles, and east
+one mile to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 17, found spring in a brook, large
+white gums in gully; a very fine spring, but not running; any quantity of
+water. First-rate feed in gully and on flat. Weather cloudy. Intend
+resting here to-morrow, as one of our horses is very lame, and there is
+everything we want.
+
+8th.
+Rested at camp. Rained lightly last night, and very stormy. Blew a
+hurricane towards morning. Rained lightly until noon; more rain than we
+have had on the whole trip. We have not had a drop of rain since the
+light shower on the 4th August. Marked a tree F 86, being the 86th camp
+from Geraldton. Shod two horses. Finished all our meat. We have now only
+flour enough for the remainder of our journey. As my friend Mr. Gosse did
+not name this splendid place, I take the liberty of naming it Gosse's
+Spring, as that is the name we always gave it in referring to it.
+
+9th.
+The horses rambled away last night, and were not collected till late. It
+was nearly eleven o'clock when we started. We travelled about fourteen
+miles over fine grassy country, and camped on a fine flat with a little
+water in a gully which appears springy; good feed, although chiefly old,
+all round camp. One of our horses is very lame, and we have a little
+trouble in getting him along. It rained again last night. Latitude 26
+degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds south.
+
+10th.
+Steered North-North-East for five miles, and then North-East and east to
+Beare's Creek, Mr. Gosse's depot Number 18, where we found a most
+beautiful spring running strong down the gully for half a mile. I wonder
+he did not mark it permanent water on his map, as it is one of the best
+springs I have ever seen. Poor place for feed. The horses inclined to
+ramble. Shot two ducks which were in one of the pools, and two wurrungs,
+which were very acceptable, being now altogether without meat. Latitude
+26 degrees 9 minutes 50 seconds. Grassy gorge on our route to-day.
+
+11th.
+We got up long before daylight, intending to get an early start, and
+reach Whittell's Creek, but two of the horses were missing, and it was
+after eight o'clock when Windich returned with them. We, however,
+started, and steering easterly through dense acacia thickets without
+grass for about thirty miles, we reached the creek, and found plenty of
+water by digging in the sand. Rough low granite hills all along our
+route, but very little feed. Passed many clay-pans with water in them.
+The country was sandy and stony, and is thickly wooded. Mount Woodroffe
+bears north 208 degrees east magnetic from our camp, and a remarkable
+granite hill bore north, which I named Mount Elizabeth. Latitude 26
+degrees 13 minutes south. Marked a tree F 89, being 89th camp from
+Geraldton.
+
+FIG-TREE GULLY.
+
+12th.
+Continued onwards about North-East for ten miles, over saltbush flats
+with water in clay-pans in places, to the north part of a range, from
+which I got a view of Mount Connor, which rose abruptly out of the ocean
+of scrub. Rounding the mount, bore South-East towards Harry's Reservoir,
+reaching which we camped. It is at the head of a rocky gully; it is very
+rough to reach, and no feed within a mile and a half of it. There was
+plenty of water in the hole, which is about six feet deep. A white
+gum-tree close to the pool is marked GOS, 19, and I marked under it, on
+same tree, F 90, being 90th camp from Geraldton. This being such a rough
+place, and no feed near, I will move on to-morrow towards or to Figtree
+Gully. Weather dark and cloudy.
+
+13th (Sunday).
+Continued on towards Figtree Gully, having to go a long way north in
+order to get round and through the ranges. Most beautifully-grassed
+country all the way; by far the best-grassed country we have seen for
+months. After travelling about nineteen miles we found water on some
+granite rocks, and camped on a very fine grassy flat. Windich shot a
+large kangaroo, which was very acceptable.
+
+14th.
+About 2 o'clock this afternoon we collected the horses, and travelled on
+to Figtree Gully about four miles, our horses first finishing all the
+water on the granite rocks. We got enough at Figtree Gully to satisfy
+them, although there is not a great supply. There is a small soakage from
+the rocks; we filled the drums to-night, so as to have sufficient for
+them in the morning, as the water does not come in quickly. The view to
+the east is not very interesting. A few low hills, and generally level
+country--apparently thickly wooded with mulga and acacia.
+
+THE MARRYATT RIVER.
+
+15th.
+Got an early start, and steering about east for six miles, crossed the
+Gum Creek, and followed it along about a mile and a half, when we steered
+more to the east, until we struck the head of the Marryatt, which we
+followed down North-East and east, until we reached the salt native well
+marked on Mr. Gosse's map. We camped here, and dug out the well, which
+was very brackish; yet the horses drank it. There was a very poor supply
+of water, and we kept bailing it out into the drums all night, and
+managed to get out about sixty gallons. We travelled about thirty miles
+to-day; our horses were very thirsty, the weather oppressive. I found a
+small water-hole, with about twenty gallons in it, about one mile north,
+to which we will take the horses to-morrow morning.
+
+16th.
+Went over to the rock hole and gave our horses the water--about one
+bucket apiece, after which we struck South-East to the river, and found
+two rock holes with sufficient water in them to satisfy all the horses.
+Continued on and reached Mr. Gosse's camp, where he marks on his map
+"Water-hole dug." Found it quite dry; but after going a few hundred yards
+we found a nice clay-pan with water in it, and camped. There has been a
+little rain here a few weeks ago, and it has not all dried up yet. If it
+was not for the rain-water we should have much difficulty in getting down
+this river, as all the old native wells dug in the sand are dry.
+
+17th.
+Followed down the Marryatt, and at six miles passed a native well, which
+was quite dry. We continued on, and at about eight miles found a number
+of rock water-holes, all nearly full of water, about a quarter of a mile
+south of the river, and camped. Shod some of the horses. Took a set of
+lunar observations.
+
+18th.
+Two of the horses rambled away during the night, and delayed our start.
+At eight o'clock we got under way, and followed along the river. The day
+was excessively hot, and we had to walk in turns. At two o'clock crossed
+the gum creek shown on Mr. Gosse's map, and searched for the large
+clay-pan shown a short distance beyond it; hundreds of natives' tracks
+seen all along. Towards evening we found a rock water-hole with about two
+gallons in it, which refreshed us, as we were all very thirsty. Here we
+were obliged to abandon police-horse Champion, he being completely
+knocked up; he has had a very bad back for a long time, and has been
+running loose without any load. We pushed on, and I sent Windich to look
+for water. We travelled until eight o'clock, when we camped for the night
+without water. Shortly after we had camped, Windich overtook us, and
+reported having found some clay-pans about six miles back. After having
+something to eat I decided to return to the clay-pans, and therefore
+packed up three of the horses, and let the others go loose, leaving the
+packs until our return. Reached the water by midnight, and the horses
+finished it all, and were not half satisfied. I thought there was more,
+or would not have come back for it. We hobbled them out, and had a few
+hours' rest.
+
+A PAINFUL MARCH.
+
+19th.
+Early this morning we searched the flat for water, and found a rock
+water-hole with about fifty gallons in it, but could not find any more
+clay-pans. We therefore gave the horses the fifty gallons, and pushed on
+towards "Water near Table-Land" shown on Mr. Gosse's map, about
+twenty-one miles distant. The day was excessively hot again, and walking
+was most fatiguing. Men and horses moved along very slowly, but did not
+give in. Towards noon a hot wind began to blow. Onwards still we pressed,
+and crossed the large creek coming into the Alberga about two miles from
+the water. I told the party we were now close, and showed them the low
+table-land just ahead. Before we reached it we found a clay-hole with
+water, and gave the horses a good drink, after which we moved on a mile
+and camped at Mr. Gosse's depot Number 20, where we got plenty of water
+by digging in the sandy bed of the river. I was very glad to reach here,
+for the horses were getting very weary, and Sweeney was also done up, and
+looked very ill and swollen up about the head. The walking was most
+harassing, for, besides the ground being soft, the sun was overpowering,
+and most excessively hot. We are now in safety again, and to-morrow being
+Sunday we will rest.
+
+20th (Sunday).
+Rested to-day. Windich shot an emu. Worked out lunar observations. Marked
+a tree F 97, being 97th camp from Geraldton. Latitude 26 degrees 44
+minutes 19 seconds, longitude about 133 degrees 47 minutes East.
+
+21st.
+Continued down the Alberga about South-East for about twenty miles, over
+sandy country thickly wooded with mulga and acacia, to Mr. Gosse's
+bivouac of December 1st, but there was scarcely any water by digging. We
+therefore pushed on and found a native well, from which, by digging out
+about five feet, we procured abundance of water. Sweeney still very
+unwell, unable to walk; others walking in turns. Distance twenty-five
+miles.
+
+22nd.
+The horses rambled back on the tracks about three miles, and it was eight
+o'clock before we got started. We followed down the Alberga over stony
+plains, poorly grassed and thickly wooded, for about eighteen miles.
+Found sufficient water by digging in the sand; there was only a very poor
+supply, and it took us a good while to water all the horses. The river
+bed is more than a quarter of a mile wide and very shallow, and spreads
+out over the plains for many miles in heavy winters.
+
+23rd.
+Watering the horses delayed us a little this morning, as there was a very
+poor supply coming into the well. We followed down the river, and after
+travelling about nine miles heard a native shouting, and soon saw him
+running after us. He was quite friendly, but could not speak any English;
+he came along with us, and shortly afterwards we found a native well with
+sufficient water by digging, then camped, as our horses were very weak,
+and required a rest. We finished all our tea and sugar to-day, and have
+now only flour left; we will therefore have bread and water for the next
+week, until we reach the Peake. The native ate heartily of damper given
+to him, and remained all day, and slept at our camp. Distance ten miles.
+
+NEAR THE END OF THE JOURNEY.
+
+24th.
+Travelled down river, the native still accompanying us, and at about six
+miles met a very old native, and a woman and a little girl. They were
+quite friendly, and showed us water; and the woman and girl came with us
+to Appatinna, Mr. Gosse's depot 21, where we camped at a fine pool of
+water under right bank of river. Windich shot three emus that were coming
+to the water, and we all had plenty of them to eat. The natives were very
+pleased, and went back and brought up the old man and another woman and
+child. There were now six with us. They have seen the telegraph line, as
+can be seen by signs they make, but they cannot speak English.
+
+25th.
+The horses rambled off miles, and it was nearly ten o'clock before we got
+under way. There was no feed at all for them. We followed down the
+Alberga for about fifteen miles, about east generally, and camped, with
+very little old dried-up grass for our horses. About half an hour after
+we left Appatinna this morning we had a very heavy shower of rain, and,
+although it only lasted about a quarter of an hour, it literally flooded
+the whole country, making it boggy. It was the heaviest thunderstorm I
+have ever seen. We shall have no difficulty in procuring water now all
+the way to the telegraph line, which is not more than forty miles from
+here. The natives stayed at Appatinna, as they had too much emu to leave.
+We did not want them, and were just as well pleased they did not come on.
+Mr. Gosse's track went North-North-East to the Hamilton River from
+Appatinna.
+
+26th.
+Got off early and followed the river about two miles, when it took a bend
+to the north, and as it was rather boggy near it we left it, and steered
+about east and East-North-East for twenty miles over most miserable
+country without any grass. We camped on a small gully with a little water
+in it, and some old dry grass in a flat. The horses were very tired, not
+having had anything to eat for the last two or three days, and some
+showed signs of giving in; in fact, all weak and knocked-up, and we have
+to handle them very carefully. For the first thirteen miles we passed
+many clay-pans full of water--water nearly everywhere--after which there
+was very little; and the rain does not appear to have been heavy to the
+east. The river is about a mile and a half north of us, and we have not
+seen it for some miles. Latitude 27 degrees 9 minutes south. Hope to
+reach the telegraph line to-morrow.
+
+27th (Sunday).
+Continuing East-North-East for two miles, came to the Alberga, and
+following along its right bank over many clay-pans with water, about east
+for twelve miles, and then East-North-East for three miles, and reached
+the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin, and camped. Long and
+continued cheers came from our little band as they beheld at last the
+goal to which we have been travelling for so long. I felt rejoiced and
+relieved from anxiety; and on reflecting on the long line of travel we
+had performed through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very
+thankful to that good Providence that had guarded and guided us so safely
+through it.
+
+The telegraph line is most substantially put up, and well wired, and is
+very creditable at this spot; large poles of bush timber, often rather
+crooked, and iron ones here and there. I now gave up keeping watch,
+having kept it regularly for the last six months. Marked a tree F 104,
+being 104th camp from Geraldton. We had not much to refresh the inner man
+with, only damper and water, but we have been used to it now more than a
+month, and do not much feel it. The horses are all very tired, and many
+of them have sore backs. I hope to reach the Peake on Wednesday night,
+where we shall be able to get something to eat. We find making the damper
+with boiling water makes it much lighter and softer, and is a great
+improvement. Latitude 27 degrees 7 minutes 50 seconds south.
+
+28th.
+We travelled down the telegraph line for about twenty-one miles, and
+camped on a branch of the Neales River, with a little grass. Level plains
+and small rocky rises all the way; very stony country; many clay-pans
+with water. A well-beaten road goes along near the telegraph line. We did
+not get on it till we had travelled along the line about fifteen miles.
+It crosses the Alberga east of the line.
+
+29th.
+When we were nearly ready to start, police-horse Butcher lay down and
+died in a few seconds; he appeared all right when we brought him in, and
+was saddled as usual. Old age, very severe hard work, and continual
+travelling, is no doubt the cause of death: we took off his shoes, and
+left him where he died. I was sorry for the poor old horse; he had been
+rather weak for a good while, but had borne up well to the very last. We
+only had four horses to ride to-day, and Sweeney being still lame really
+made but three horses between five of us. We travelled down the road for
+about thirty-three miles over stony plains; many clay-pans with water,
+but no feed. Camped on a gully with some old feed in the flat, in
+latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes. Miserable country for grass all day, but
+plenty of water from recent rains everywhere. Hope to reach the Peake by
+mid-day to-morrow. Damper and water as usual.
+
+30th.
+Got off early as usual, all in high glee at the prospect of meeting
+civilized habitations again. Travelled along the road and saw cattle, and
+shortly afterwards reached the Peake, and rather surprised the people.
+Mr. Bagot, the owner of the cattle station, was the first I met; and
+after telling him who we were, he said he had surmised it was so. He soon
+told us that Mr. Giles had returned, and also Mr. Ross, who had been
+despatched by the Honourable Thomas Elder with camels and a good
+equipment to find an overland route to Perth, but was unable to get over
+to Western Australia. We were soon introduced to Mr. Blood, the officer
+in charge of the telegraph station, and, after unloading, were soon
+engaged at dinner, the roast beef and plum pudding being a striking
+contrast to our fare lately! Both Mr. and Mrs. Blood, as well as Mr.
+Bagot, did all they could to make us comfortable during our four days'
+rest.
+
+CONGRATULATORY TELEGRAMS.
+
+Immediately on reaching Peake, I despatched a telegram to his Excellency
+Mr. Musgrave, Governor of South Australia, at Adelaide, informing him of
+the safe arrival of the party, and received the following reply from the
+private secretary:--
+
+His Excellency has received your message with great satisfaction, and
+congratulates you heartily on your safe arrival.
+
+This telegram was accompanied by another from the Honourable Arthur
+Blyth, the Chief Secretary of the Colony:
+
+Is there anything you want? Mail leaves on October 10th. Shall be happy
+to facilitate any despatch you may wish forwarded to your Government.
+Superintendent of Telegraphs has given instructions for every assistance
+to be rendered you at the various telegraph stations on your road down.
+
+The instructions sent by Mr. Todd, the Superintendent of Telegraphs, to
+Mr. Blood, the officer in charge at Peake station, were to the following
+effect:--
+
+Please give my hearty congratulations to Mr. Forrest on the successful
+completion of his great feat, which I have communicated to the Government
+and press; also Baron Von Mueller, who sends his congratulations. I shall
+be glad to have a few particulars as to route followed, if convenient to
+Mr. Forrest to supply them. Render his party every attention.
+
+Mr. Ernest Giles, the explorer, also telegraphed, and I also received
+messages from the editors of the Register and Advertiser, Adelaide
+newspapers, congratulating me, and asking for a few particulars for
+publication in their papers. I complied with the request immediately,
+forwarding a brief narrative of the more remarkable incidents of our
+journey. On the 15th of October, the day after our arrival at Peake, I
+wrote, for the information of Governor Musgrave, a short account of the
+journey, and this, accompanied by a more detailed narrative, addressed to
+the Honourable Malcolm Fraser, Commissioner of Crown Lands at Perth, was,
+together with several private telegrams, forwarded free of charge by the
+South Australian Government, which also provided us with fresh horses and
+everything we required for our journey to Adelaide.
+
+We left the Peake on the 4th of October, greatly refreshed by the rest
+and the kind treatment we had received from Mr. and Mrs. Blood, and Mr.
+Bagot, the owner of the cattle station.
+
+Before I record the details of our journey and the receptions given us at
+every place on the route, I will quote the concluding remarks of my
+journal relative to the expedition:--
+
+THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED.
+
+I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the character and
+capability of the country traversed; and through the kindness and
+courtesy of Baron Von Mueller, C.M.G., etc., Government Botanist of
+Victoria, and of Mr. R. Brough Smyth, Secretary for Mines of Victoria, I
+am enabled to annex reports upon the botanical and geological specimens
+collected on our journey.
+
+The whole of the country, from the settled districts near Champion Bay to
+the head of the Murchison, is admirably suited for pastoral settlement,
+and in a very short time will be taken up and stocked; indeed, some
+already has been occupied.
+
+From the head of the Murchison to the 129th meridian, the boundary of our
+colony, I do not think will ever be settled. Of course there are many
+grassy patches, such as at Windich Springs, the Weld Springs, all round
+Mount Moore, and other places; but they are so isolated, and of such
+extent, that it would never pay to stock them. The general character of
+this immense tract is a gently undulating spinifex desert--Festuca
+(Triodia) irritans, the spinifex of the desert explorers, but not the
+spinifex of science. It is lightly wooded with acacia and other small
+trees, and, except in a few creeks, there is a great absence of any large
+timber.
+
+The prevailing rock, which crops out on the rises and often forms low
+cliffs, in which are receptacles for holding water, is LIGHT RED
+SANDSTONE (desert sandstone, tertiary). The only game found in the
+spinifex is a kangaroo rat, commonly called the wirrup; but in the grassy
+openings there are many kangaroos, and often emus, also a rat known as
+the wurrung. These animals are very good eating, and formed a valuable
+addition to our store department. At the permanent waters there were
+always myriads of bronze-winged pigeons, and also the white cockatoo with
+scarlet crest, called the chockalott; also the beaccoo, or slate-coloured
+parrot. Generally, however, with the exception of the crow and hawk,
+birds were not very numerous except round water. Whenever a sheet of
+water was found we found ducks, and in Lake Augusta swans and ducks were
+innumerable.
+
+In bringing this report to a close it is not necessary to refer much to
+the reasons that induced me to keep more to the south than I originally
+intended. It will readily be seen, after perusing this journal, that it
+was a necessity, and that we could not get further north. It is a marvel
+to me that we got through at all; the season was an exceptionally dry
+one--in fact, a drought--our horses were of a very ordinary kind, and the
+country most wretched.
+
+When it is remembered that a horse in poor condition and in warm weather
+cannot go much over a day without water, and when the sterility of the
+country is considered, it will be readily seen what a disadvantage one
+labours under without camels, which can go ten days without water. Well
+can I sympathize with Mr. Giles when he states in his journal: "All I
+coveted from my brother explorers was their camels, for what is a horse
+in such a region as this? He is not physically capable of enduring the
+terrors of this country." And so it is; horses are the noblest and most
+useful animals in the world, but they must have food and water regularly.
+The camel, on the other hand, is physically formed to travel over these
+desolate regions, and in Australia has been known to go twelve and
+fourteen days without water, carrying 300 pounds, and sometimes 400
+pounds weight.
+
+From these few remarks it will be seen what a great disadvantage Mr.
+Giles and myself laboured under compared with Major Warburton and Mr.
+Gosse; and what in similar circumstances might have been easily performed
+by them was quite impossible in our circumstances.
+
+In reading this journal, it may be wondered why we followed so much along
+Mr. Gosse's track, when a new route for ourselves might have been chosen
+more to the south. The reason is, I had intended, as soon as I reached the
+129th meridian (the boundary of our colony), to make a long trip to the
+south, near to Eucla, and thus map that important locality; but on
+reaching there I was prevented by the following causes: The weather was
+excessively warm; the country to the south seemed most uninviting
+--sand-hills as far as could be seen, covered with spinifex; our horses
+were very poor; our rations were running short, the meat and tea and
+sugar being nearly gone; water was very scarce, and I could clearly see
+that, although Mr. Gosse had travelled the route last year, it did not
+follow that we should be able to do it easily this, as all the water
+thus far where he had camped was gone. I felt we were altogether on our
+own resources for water, and I concluded to push on towards the
+telegraph line as quickly as possible. It turned out, although we had
+considerable difficulty, that we reached the line sooner than I could
+have anticipated.
+
+ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.
+
+I have the very pleasant duty to record my thorough appreciation of the
+services of my companions. To my brother, Mr. Alexander Forrest, I am
+especially indebted for his assistance and advice on many occasions, also
+for his indomitable energy and perseverance. Every service entrusted to
+him was admirably carried out. He never disappointed me. When absent for
+a week, I knew to a few minutes when we should meet again. Whether horses
+or loads had to be abandoned, it mattered not to him, he always carried
+out the service; and I attribute much of the success to being supported
+by such an able and hopeful second in command. In addition to this, he
+bestowed great care on the stores of the expedition; collected all the
+botanical specimens, besides taking observations for laying down our
+route on many occasions during my absence.
+
+To Tommy Windich (native) I am much indebted for his services as a
+bushman, and his experience generally. Accompanying me on many occasions,
+often in circumstances of difficulty and privation, I ever found him a
+good, honest companion.
+
+To James Kennedy, James Sweeney, and Tommy Pierre I am thankful for the
+ready obedience and entire confidence they placed in me. They ever
+conducted themselves in a proper manner, and on no occasion uttered a
+single murmur.
+
+I take this opportunity of thanking all those gentlemen who so kindly
+subscribed to the Expedition Fund.
+
+In conclusion, sir, I beg you will convey to his Excellency Governor Weld
+my sincere thanks for the kindness and support he has given me in this
+arduous enterprise. I can truthfully state, if it had not been for his
+zeal and assistance, I should not have been able to undertake and
+accomplish this exploration.
+
+I have also to thank the Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary, and
+yourself, for your kind attention and consideration, and your desire that
+I should have everything that was necessary to bring the expedition to a
+successful termination.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+PUBLIC RECEPTIONS AT ADELAIDE AND PERTH.
+
+Procession and Banquet at Adelaide.
+Arrival in Western Australia.
+Banquet and Ball at Perth.
+Results of Exploration.
+
+We reached Beltana on the 18th, where we were joined by Mr. Henry Gosse,
+brother and companion of the explorer, and arrived at Jamestown on the
+28th of October. This was the first township on the route, and the
+inhabitants, although somewhat taken by surprise by our appearance, would
+not let the opportunity pass for giving us a warm welcome. On the
+following morning there was a good muster of the principal residents at
+Jureit's Hotel, and an address was presented to me. Our healths were then
+drunk and duly responded to, and we had every reason to be highly
+gratified with our first formal reception.
+
+BURRA BURRA AND GAWLER.
+
+The next day we reached Kooringa, on the Burra, and there too our arrival
+excited considerable enthusiasm, and we were invited to a complimentary
+dinner at the Burra Hotel Assembly Rooms, Mr. Philip Lane, the Chairman
+of the District Council, presiding. An address was presented, and, my
+health having been proposed by Mr. W.H. Rosoman, Manager of the National
+Bank, in replying, I took the opportunity of expressing my thanks to my
+associates in the expedition for their unfailing co-operation under
+occasionally great difficulties and privations.
+
+On Saturday, the 31st, having witnessed a cricket-match at Farrell's
+Flat, we visited the Burra Burra Mines, and there we received an address
+from the manager, accountant, captain, chief engineer, and storekeeper.
+We remained at Burra the next day (Sunday), and on Monday morning started
+by train for Salisbury with our fifteen horses in horse-boxes. Eleven of
+these were the survivors of the expedition, and we were desirous that our
+faithful and hard-worked four-footed companions should have their share
+of the attention of our South Australian friends. At Gawler we were
+received by a crowd of people, and flags were flying to do us honour. The
+Town Clerk and a considerable number of the principal residents were
+waiting for us in an open space near the railway station, and presented
+an address on behalf of the municipality. We were then invited to a
+luncheon at the Criterion Hotel, the chair being filled, in the absence
+of the Mayor, who was unwell, by Mr. James Morton. Here again I was
+called on to respond for my health being proposed; but I need not weary
+the reader by endeavouring to repeat all I said upon that and other
+similar occasions. I acknowledged and deeply felt the personal kindness
+of the receptions my party had experienced; and I fully shared with those
+who signed the addresses I received, or proposed my health at dinners,
+the hearty desire that the successful issue of my expedition might be the
+means of uniting still more closely the two colonies in bonds of mutual
+good-feeling and sympathy. I had been similarly welcomed at Gawler and
+other places in South Australia on the occasion of my previous visit, and
+I was, I trust, not unjustifiably proud and pleased that my old friends
+had recognized my recent services.
+
+RECEPTION AT SALISBURY.
+
+At Salisbury, which we reached on the 2nd of November, a very hearty
+reception awaited us, and we were entertained at a dinner given at the
+Salisbury Hotel under the presidency of the Reverend J.R. Ferguson. After
+dinner the chairman read a brief address, signed by the Chairman of the
+District Council; and as the speeches referred not only to my own
+expedition, but were interesting in relation to other explorations and
+the method of conducting them, I may be pardoned for quoting a portion of
+the report of the proceedings which appeared in the local newspapers:--
+
+The Chairman then said he wished to express the great pleasure it was to
+him to meet Mr. Forrest, his brother, and party, after their triumphant
+accomplishment of the daring and arduous undertaking of crossing from the
+Australian shores of the Indian Ocean to the very interior of South
+Australia. We at all times felt constrained to value and honour men who
+in any way contributed to the progress and welfare of mankind. We
+esteemed those men whose lives were devoted to the explorations of
+science, and whose discoveries were rendered serviceable to the comfort
+and advancement of the race; and what were the achievements of travellers
+but contributions to the advancement and welfare of the
+race--contributions in which were involved the most magnificent heroism
+in penetrating the regions which had hitherto been untrodden by the foot
+of the white man? They obtained their contributions to the advancement
+and welfare of men by the manifestation of high moral endurance, which
+enabled them to submit to privations and discomforts of the most trying
+character; while withal they showed dauntless courage in going forward
+and meeting dangers of every possible kind, even to the loss of life
+itself. He was disposed to rank the achievements of their guests with
+those of the foremost of travellers of whom we read. He had sat enchanted
+with the perusal of the travels of John Franklin in the Arctic Regions;
+and, by the way, John Franklin accompanied Captain Flinders in his
+expedition in the year 1800, which was sent out for the purpose of
+surveying the south coast of Australia. He had perused with intense
+interest the travels of Samuel Baker in the interior of Africa along the
+source of that wondrous Nile, as also those of Speke, Grant, Stanley, and
+that prince of men, the late Dr. Livingstone; and the name of their guest
+was entitled to rank along with such. (Cheers.) Let now our stockholders
+and men of capital take advantage of Mr. Forrest's explorations--let his
+well-earned honours be bestowed upon him--and let all representatives of
+intelligence and enterprise hail him. We who were here as Australians
+were proud of him and rejoiced over him, and would seek to send him back
+to his own home with our loud plaudits and our heartiest gratitude.
+
+The Vice-Chairman, in proposing The Health of Mr. John Forrest, the
+Leader of the Expedition, said he was sure they were all extremely glad
+to see Mr. Forrest and his party in their midst. When Mr. Forrest was
+amongst them before they all thought he was a fine, jolly young fellow,
+and thought none the less of him on that occasion. (Applause.) At any
+rate, he was stouter than when he appeared on his first visit. He thought
+the country would feel grateful to Mr. Forrest and his companions for the
+benefits which would result from their achievement. (Applause.)
+
+Mr. John Forrest, who was received with loud cheers, said he thanked them
+very heartily for the enthusiastic way in which they had drunk his
+health, and for the very handsome address they had presented to him. He
+felt altogether unable to respond in the way he could wish to the many
+remarks that had been made by their worthy chairman. If he could only
+make himself believe that he was worthy of being placed in the rank of
+the men whom he had mentioned, he certainly would feel very proud indeed.
+It had always given him the greatest pleasure to read the accounts of the
+travels of these great men. He remembered being closely connected with
+Captain Flinders's researches upon the south coast of Australia, and,
+after his journey from Perth to Eucla, Mr. Eyre, the late Governor of
+Jamaica, wrote to him that he risked his life upon the accuracy of
+Captain Flinders's observations, and in no case had he the least cause to
+regret it. Exploration in other parts of the world, as in Africa, was
+carried on in a very different style to the exploration in Australia.
+Even in the early times, exploration here was carried on in a very
+different way to what it was at the present time. Large equipages, many
+waggons, and that sort of thing were used in the time of Captain Sturt
+and other early explorers, until Mr. Eyre took a light equipment, with
+very few horses and very few men. Since then the work had had to be done
+with very light turn-outs. In Western Australia a good deal of
+exploration was done before his time, and expeditions had been very
+common. They generally cost very little indeed. The horses were generally
+given by the settlers, the Government contributed a few hundred pounds,
+and young settlers volunteered for the service. The cost was sometimes
+400 or 500 pounds; and upon his expedition, up to the time they left the
+settled districts of Western Australia, they had only spent about 330
+pounds. He did not know that he could say anything more. He had spoken
+several times on his journey down, and it seemed to him that he had said
+the same thing over and over again. His forte was not in public speaking,
+but he hoped they would take the will for the deed. They never could
+forget the very kind and hearty reception they had received in every
+place they had visited in South Australia. (Cheers.)
+
+The Reverend J.G. Wright proposed The health of Mr. Alexander Forrest and
+the remainder of the Party. He remarked that they had heard a great deal
+about Mr. Forrest, the leader of the party, and whilst he had manifested
+a great deal of courage and perseverance, and they all felt indebted to
+him as the leader of the party, yet there was much praise due to his
+brother and the rest of his companions. He was gratified at having the
+opportunity of meeting them before they went down to the metropolis, and
+he was sure it was no small matter to Salisbury to have such a band
+remaining with them for a short time. It would be a source of pleasure to
+colonists generally to see them, and he trusted that the work which had
+been so nobly performed, and what had followed after it, would tend to
+link the colonies more closely together. He was glad to see that original
+holders of the land in their western colony--the natives--had been
+employed in the work of exploration and opening up the country. (Hear,
+hear.) They were expected to do honour to generals and warriors who had
+distinguished themselves and placed their names high on the roll of fame,
+but he thought that such could not claim greater honours than the
+explorer. His work was not one of bloodshed, but one which was undertaken
+in the interests and for the benefit of humanity. Civilization,
+agriculture, art, and science followed the explorations of those noble
+men who had taken their lives in their hands and faced difficulties and
+dangers for the advancement of their fellow-men. He proposed with the
+heartiest feelings the toast of Mr. Alexander Forrest and his companions.
+
+The toast was very cordially drunk.
+
+Mr. Alex. Forrest, on rising to respond, was greeted with hearty and
+continued cheering. He said he thanked the company most heartily for the
+manner in which they had drunk his health and that of his companions. He
+could assure them they felt highly flattered at the reception which had
+been accorded them. It was more than they expected. When here four years
+ago, it was on a small trip compared with what they had accomplished this
+time. It would not be necessary for him to go over the same ground that
+his brother had remarked upon--in fact, his brother had quite taken the
+wind out of his sails; and public speaking certainly not being his forte,
+although he was quite at home round the camp-fire, he must ask them to
+excuse him making a lengthy speech. He could assure them they all thanked
+them very sincerely for their kindness, and deeply appreciated the honour
+which had been done them. (Cheers.)
+
+Tommy Pierre, one of the aboriginals attached to the expedition, being
+called upon to respond, after some hesitation, said, "Well, gentlemen, I
+am not in good humour to-night. (Laughter.) I am very glad I got through.
+We got a capital gaffer that leaded us through; but it wasn't him that
+got us through, it isn't ourselves, but God who brought us through the
+place, and we ought to be very thankful to God for getting us through.
+(Laughter and cheers.) I am not in good humour to-night to speak
+(laughter), but I will speak when I get in Adelaide." (Prolonged
+cheering.)
+
+Tommy Windich, the other aboriginal attached to the expedition, was also
+asked to respond, but he could not muster courage enough to do so.
+
+
+
+WELCOME AT ADELAIDE.
+
+The preparations for our reception at Adelaide were most elaborate. It
+seems to have been resolved that the capital of South Australia should
+appear as the representative of the satisfaction felt throughout the
+colony at the successful completion of an adventure, the result of which
+was so deeply interesting, and which had been several times attempted by
+explorers, not less ardent and determined, but less fortunate than
+ourselves. At an early hour on the morning of the 3rd of November, on
+which day it was known our party would arrive, the streets through which
+we were to pass were thronged with thousands eager to bid us welcome. Not
+only the city itself, but the suburban districts contributed to swell the
+crowd. Balconies and housetops were thronged, and all along the line of
+route were flags and decorations of flowers and evergreens, streamers
+with inscriptions of welcome, and arches adorned with large pictures
+representing incidents of bush life. The bells, too, rang out merry
+peals, and the day was observed as a general holiday at Adelaide.
+
+We left Salisbury at twelve o'clock, escorted by a considerable number of
+the inhabitants. Before reaching Adelaide we were met by carriages
+containing the Mayors of Adelaide, Port Adelaide, Kensington, and
+Norwood, the town clerks, and members of the different corporations. A
+very interesting and characteristic compliment was paid to us by the
+presence of members of various exploring expeditions, who, from their own
+experience, could best estimate the value of the results we had achieved,
+and the difficulties we had encountered. Following the official
+personages, on horseback, was Mr. John Chambers, who, with his brother,
+the late Mr. James Chambers, and the late Mr. Finke, sent out in 1860 the
+parties under the leadership of the intrepid Mr. John McDouall Stuart, to
+explore the interior lying between South Australia and the northern
+shores of the continent. Three members of this party--Messrs. A.J.
+Lawrence, D. Thompson, and John Wall--followed on horseback, carrying
+standards marked with the dates January, 1862, and July 25, 1862, when
+Stuart departed from Adelaide, and when he planted his flag on the
+northern shores. Then came representatives of the various exploring
+parties--Messrs. F.G. Waterhouse, F. Thring, W.P. Auld, S. King, J.W.
+Billiatt, and H. Nash, of Stuart's party; Mr. R.E. Warburton, Mr. Dennis
+White, and Charley, the native boy, of Colonel Warburton's expedition;
+Mr. William Gosse (leader), and Mr. Harry Gosse, of the Gosse expedition;
+and Mr. Ernest Giles, leader of the Giles expedition.
+
+The reception committee and representatives of the Oddfellows, Foresters,
+Druids, Rechabites, Good Templars, German, and other friendly societies,
+followed, after which came our party. We wore the rough, weather-beaten,
+and, it may be added, shockingly dilapidated garments in which we had
+been clothed during our expedition, and were mounted on the horses which
+had served us so well. It was wished that we should represent to the
+Adelaide public, as realistically as we could, the actual appearance of
+our party while engaged on the long journey, so we slung our rifles at
+our sides, and each of us led a pack-horse carrying the kegs we had used
+for the conveyance of water. In one respect, no doubt, we failed to
+realize adequately the appearance of our party when struggling through
+the spinifex desert, or anxiously searching for rock holes and springs.
+The month of great hospitality we had experienced since reaching Peake
+station had considerably improved our own personal appearance, and the
+horses were very unlike the wretched, half-dying animals we had such
+difficulty to keep alive and moving. After us came, in long procession,
+bands of music, and the members of the various orders, the German Club,
+the Bushmen's Club, and a goodly number of horsemen and carriages. The
+bands played inspiring strains, the crowd shouted and cheered, and my
+brother and I were perpetually bowing acknowledgments. As for the two
+natives, Tommy Windich and Tommy Pierre, they appeared to be perfectly
+amazed by the novelty of the spectacle, and the enthusiasm of the vast
+throng which lined the streets.
+
+On our arrival at the town hall we were received by the Ministry, the
+Honourable W. Milne (President of the Legislative Council), Sir G.S.
+Kingston (the Speaker), several members of both Houses of Parliament, and
+other gentlemen. Having alighted, we were conducted to a platform, and
+addresses were presented to us by the Mayor, on behalf of the citizens of
+Adelaide; from the Odd Fellows, the Foresters, the Rechabites, the Good
+Templars, and four German societies. In replying to these I did my best,
+but very inadequately, to express my feelings of gratitude for the
+reception we had met with, and of thanks for the generous manner in which
+our endeavours to successfully perform an arduous task had been
+recognized. The Mayors of Kensington, Norwood, and Port Adelaide, also
+offered a few words of congratulation to our party.
+
+By particular request, we showed ourselves on the balcony, and bowed our
+acknowledgments for the very hearty welcome we received. Then we
+remounted our horses, and took them to the police paddocks, after which
+my brother and I were introduced to the Adelaide Club.
+
+I have mentioned that several distinguished Australian explorers took
+part in the reception, and I may add that among them were the whole of
+Stuart's last party, except the gallant leader and Mr. Kekwick, who were
+dead, Mr. Few, who was in a distant part of the colony, and the farrier,
+who had gone no one knew whither. It was also appropriate to the occasion
+that two horses, who were memorably connected with explorations, should
+be associated with the animals who had served one so well. The horse
+which had carried poor Burke on his ill-fated expedition from Melbourne
+was ridden by Mr. F.G. Waterhouse, and Mr. F. Thring was mounted on a
+horse which had crossed the continent with Stuart.
+
+BANQUET AT THE TOWN HALL.
+
+In the evening we were entertained at a banquet in the town hall, the
+chair being occupied by the Honourable Arthur Blyth, the Premier of the
+colony. The proceedings were fully reported in the newspapers on the
+following day; and as so many explorers were present, and addressed the
+company, I may be permitted, apart from personal considerations, to quote
+the principal speeches delivered on the occasion.
+
+The chairman rose to propose the toast of the evening, and was received
+with cheers. He said, "I think, for the last two or three days, that
+there has been a general feeling that South Australians were not very
+good at receptions and getting up processions; but at all events to-day
+we have showed that we can manage such things as well as people of more
+importance probably than ourselves--at all events quite as well as
+countries much more thickly populated than our own. (Cheers.) We have all
+of us read something about the old Roman triumphs--how the conquerors,
+when they went forth and were successful, were granted a triumph, and in
+this triumph were accompanied by the most beautiful of their captives,
+and the most wonderful and singular of the animals they had taken, and
+passed through the cities of which they were citizens, and received the
+plaudits of their inhabitants. To-day we have granted a triumph, not to a
+warrior who has killed thousands of his fellows, or added much to the
+landed property of the country, but to one who has been a warrior
+nevertheless, fighting many difficulties that many warriors had not to
+contend with, and carrying his life in his hands, as warriors have done
+of old, in leading those who are associated with him in the triumph here
+to-day. (Cheers.) There was no beautiful captive in his train, and no
+curious animals, as in the old Roman triumphs. All that we saw were some
+dusty pack-horses, and some well-worn packsaddles; yet with these the
+explorer has to proceed on his journey, and conquer the difficulties of
+the desert, knowing that with such slender things to rely upon he must
+hope to overcome the dangers, and endure to the end. (Cheers.) Gentlemen,
+in the page of Australian Exploration, which is the sentiment attached to
+my toast--in its pages there are to be read too many tragic stories. We
+cannot think of the history of exploration without thinking with regret
+of some of the names connected with it. What an extraordinary page is
+that of Leichardt, of whom it has been said no man
+
+'--knows his place of rest
+Far in the cedar shade.'
+
+"And yet so great is the interest which is taken in his fate that the
+wildest stories of a convict in the gaols of a neighbouring colony have
+been of interest to us, and have caused some of our fellow Australians to
+send out a party to see if something could not still be heard of that
+explorer. Then think of Burke and Wills, and what a tragic tale was
+theirs--so nearly saved, so closely arrived to a place of safety, and yet
+to miss it after all! I daresay there are hundreds here who, like myself,
+saw their remains taken through our streets in the gloomy hearse on the
+road to that colony which they had served so well; and we know that now
+the country where they laid down their lives is brought under the hand of
+pastoral settlement. They were the heroes of other lands; but have we not
+heroes also of our own? (Loud cheering.) Have we not here the likeness of
+a man who knew not what fear was, because he never saw fear who carried
+out the thorough principle of the Briton in that he always persevered to
+the end? And then, coming nearer to our own time, speaking by weeks and
+months, had we not our opportunity of entertaining in the city the leader
+of an expedition that successfully passed its way through the desert to
+the shores of Western Australia? I refer to Colonel Warburton. When
+speaking, upon that occasion, of the noble way in which the people of
+Western Australia had received our explorer, I ventured to hope that
+before many months we should have an opportunity of welcoming some
+explorer from that colony. Gentlemen, the hour has come, and the man.
+(Loud cheering.) For West Australia, though the least of the colonies in
+population, has its exploring heroes too. (Cheers.) I have no doubt you
+have read, within the last few days, all about the battle that Mr.
+Forrest has had to fight with the spinifex desert, with unknown regions,
+and hostile natives. While giving all praise to those Australian
+explorers connected with this Australian Empire that is to be, I ask you
+to join with me in drinking the health of the last and not the least, and
+I now give you the toast of Australian Exploration, coupled with the name
+of Mr. John Forrest." (Cheers.)
+
+The toast was enthusiastically received, and three hearty cheers given.
+
+Band: The Song of Australia.
+
+Mr. John Forrest, who was received with loud cheers, said, "Mr. Chairman
+and Gentlemen, I feel very proud that my name should be coupled with the
+toast of Australian Exploration. I assure you I feel altogether unequal
+to the toast so aptly proposed by our worthy chairman, my forte not being
+public speaking; still, I will try to do as well as I can. (Cheers.)
+Since I arrived at years of discretion, I have always taken a very deep
+interest in exploration, and for the last five years I have been what is
+generally termed in Western Australia The Young Explorer, as I have
+conducted all the explorations that have been undertaken by our
+Government. In the year 1869 I was instructed to accompany an expedition
+as navigator, which was intended to be commanded by Dr. Mueller, of
+Melbourne, to search for the remains of the late Dr. Leichardt, who
+started from near Moreton Bay in 1848, I think. Dr. Mueller not having
+arrived to take command as was anticipated, and the expedition having
+been got ready, I was deputed to the command, and we went out about 500
+miles to the eastward of the settled districts of our colony, in order to
+find out whether the statements of the natives relative to the existence
+of white men or their remains in the locality were correct or not. We
+were out about five months. Although we did not suffer very much, as we
+had sufficient water and sufficient provisions, still it was a very dry
+season. We came back and settled that there were no remains--that, in
+fact, the reports of the natives were unfounded, and that they referred
+to the remains of horses lost by an explorer of our colony, Mr. Austin,
+not many miles to the eastward. This was the first attempt at exploration
+I had made, and, although I had been brought up to bush life, I knew very
+little about exploration, as I found when I went out. I was made aware of
+many things that I did not know about before, and I must say that I was a
+much better second than a commander. After this I undertook to conduct an
+exploration north-east from our colony to Sturt's Creek, where Mr. A.
+Gregory came down about 1855, and down the Victoria River. This fell to
+the ground; but our present Governor, Mr. Weld, had a great idea that we
+should organize an expedition to come to this colony overland along the
+coast--along the course which was previously taken by Mr. Eyre, I think
+in 1841--and he requested me to take command. Of course I readily
+acquiesced in his suggestion, and in 1870 we started on our journey; and
+although we did not experience the difficulties Mr. Eyre experienced,
+still we had some little difficulty, and we would have had a great deal
+more, I have no doubt, if we had not had Mr. Eyre's experience to guide
+us. Many people--in our colony, I mean--thought it was a very little
+thing indeed we had done, as we had only travelled along another man's
+tracks, although they gave us a very hearty and enthusiastic reception.
+We reported that there was good country along the coast, and I am glad to
+say that in the course of a year a telegraph line will be run across the
+route we travelled. (Cheers.) I hope it will tend to unite more closely
+than they are at present united the whole of the Australian colonies, and
+especially this colony with our own. (Cheers.) There is a very great deal
+of good country inland from the south coast; and if only water can be
+procured, I am quite certain it will be the finest pastoral district of
+West Australia. (Hear, hear.) I have no doubt the establishment of
+telegraphic communication will tend to the settlement of that part of the
+country, and I am very glad indeed that the Government of South Australia
+have acted so liberally as to join with our Government in erecting the
+line. (Cheers.) After this my exploration experience still increased, and
+I tried very hard to get up another expedition; but, not being a wealthy
+man, I had to depend upon others. I often represented that I would like
+to go, and people talked about the matter, and then I thought I would
+make an offer to the Government, which they might accept or not as they
+liked. We have the good fortune to have in our colony a Governor--who, I
+am sorry to say, is leaving shortly--who takes a great interest in
+exploration. He had been an explorer himself, having, as he has often
+told me, travelled across New Zealand with his swag on his back.
+(Cheers.) He has always been a great supporter of mine, and done all he
+could to forward exploration; and about two years ago I laid before him,
+through the Commissioner of Crown Lands, a project which I was willing to
+accomplish if he would recommend the granting of the necessary funds. In
+a very complimentary reply he quite acquiesced with what I suggested, and
+promised to lay it before the Legislative Council with the support of the
+Government; and in 1873 the matter was brought before the Council. All I
+asked was that the Government of West Australia would grant me some 400
+pounds, and I would from my own private purse, and those of others who
+had agreed to assist me, stand the remainder of the cost. (Cheers.) If
+they granted me that sum, I was willing to undertake an exploration from
+Champion Bay up to the Murchison, the head of which we did not know, and
+strike the telegraph line for Port Darwin, it being left to my discretion
+which course should be pursued. Four hundred pounds seems a paltry sum,
+but there was some bitter opposition to its being granted, although by
+the aid of the Government and other members it was voted. Last year was
+the year when I should have undertaken the exploration, and I was, of
+course, quite prepared to do so; but in the meantime a whole host of
+expeditions from South Australia had come into the field. Mr. Giles, I
+saw, had started from some part of the telegraph line westward, and I
+heard afterwards that he had through some misunderstanding--I do not know
+what it was; I only know by what I read in the papers--returned to
+Adelaide. Then we heard that the South Australian Government had
+despatched Mr. Gosse, and that the Honourable Thomas Elder--whom I have
+the pleasure of meeting to-day--had despatched Colonel Warburton
+(cheers)--to explore towards the same direction--as we judged from the
+despatches and newspapers--that I intended to start from. I belong to the
+Survey Department of West Australia, and was requested by the
+Commissioner of Crown Lands and Surveyor-General, the Honourable Malcolm
+Fraser, to superintend some surveys he specially wished undertaken that
+season. I had an interview with the Governor, and he said very wisely he
+did not wish to order me in any way; that it was no use running a race
+with South Australia, and that as they were first in the field, although
+we were the first to suggest the exploration, we should wait till the
+next year, when, if the South Australian explorers were fortunate enough
+to reach this colony, we should have no necessity to send an expedition,
+and that if they did not, we should certainly profit by their experience.
+I, being engaged in another service in which I took great interest, was
+willing to wait for another year; and if, as Mr. Weld said, the South
+Australians did not succeed, I would undertake it the next year, and
+benefit by their experience. As it turned out, the expedition undertaken
+by the Government, commanded by Mr. Gosse, did not succeed in reaching
+the colony of Western Australia, and the expedition undertaken by Colonel
+Warburton, under the auspices of my recent friend, the Honourable Thomas
+Elder, reached our colony, but so far north that it did not add to the
+knowledge of the route we had laid out for ourselves. He came out between
+the 20th and 22nd degrees of latitude, whereas we started from the 26th,
+and did not intend to go more north than that. After we heard--his
+Excellency the Governor was away on a visit to New Zealand at the
+time--that Mr. Gosse had turned back, although he had succeeded in
+reaching a very great distance from the telegraph line, I had
+instructions from the Colonial Secretary to equip an expedition at once.
+If Mr. Gosse had succeeded, I am sure I would not have been here to-day;
+but, as he did not succeed, I had orders to equip an expedition, and as I
+was starting news arrived from the north-west coast by a coaster that
+Colonel Warburton and his party had arrived. (Cheers.) This, of course,
+gave us very great pleasure, and steps were at once taken to give him a
+reception in Perth. (Cheers.) As soon as we heard that he had arrived,
+our whole colony rose up to give him a welcome; and although what we did
+did not come up with what you have given to us to-day--for our colony is
+only a small one, with little over 30,000 inhabitants--still I am sure
+that Colonel Warburton told you it was a kind reception. (Cheers.) I am
+sorry to say that I was not able to be present when he was received,
+though I waited some time in order to have that opportunity. The
+opportunities for transport from our north-west settlements to the
+capital are very few at a certain time of the year, and that was the time
+when Colonel Warburton arrived in our settlements; so that in a matter of
+700 or 800 miles, from Nicol Bay to Perth, he delayed unfortunately three
+or four months. It was a very great pity that he should have been delayed
+so long. After receiving addresses at Roeburne and Fremantle, the colonel
+arrived just in time to be forwarded 250 miles to catch the mail, and
+therefore he had not time, I know, to receive the reception that would
+have been given him by the people of West Australia had he remained in
+our colony a little longer. (Cheers.) All I can say is, that though what
+has been done for Colonel Warburton cannot compare with what has been
+done for us to-day, it was done in the same spirit, and we did our best.
+(Cheers.) I am sure that I would have been very much pleased to have met
+Colonel Warburton here this evening; but I understand that he is gone
+upon a tour to his native land, and so I am deprived of the opportunity.
+I have, however, had the pleasure of meeting other explorers, and I must
+congratulate South Australia upon possessing so many explorers. I had no
+idea that she could assemble so many, and that so young a man as myself
+should be able to meet so many, all young men. I have read a great deal
+of early explorations, and could tell you a good deal about them; but I
+have no doubt you are just as well acquainted with their histories as I
+am. I have only gleaned their history from books written by able men on
+exploration; and I therefore need say little upon that subject, and will
+content myself with a short reference to explorations of recent date. I
+have already referred to Colonel Warburton. Mr. Gosse's is of more recent
+date. I have never been able to read his journal to this day; but I hope
+to be able to do so now. Through the kindness of Mr. Phillipson, of
+Beltana, I was able to see his map of the country he passed over, with
+which I am very well pleased; and, in spite of what some people have
+said, I think that Mr. Gosse's exploration will be found of considerable
+benefit to the colony, and that his action was one for which he deserved
+very much credit. He travelled for some time in bad country, but, going
+on, he got into good country; and that which he has described as the
+Musgrave and Mann and Tomkinson Ranges I hope to see next year stocked
+with South Australian sheep and cattle. (Cheers.) The country which Mr.
+Gosse found is country abounding with any quantity of grass, with many
+springs; and there are, perhaps, many more than I saw, for I kept along
+Mr. Gosse's track; but I will say that I always found water where he said
+that it would be found. (Cheers.) There is but one fault that I have to
+find with him, and that is, that he did not say that water would be found
+where I sometimes found it; but doubtless this arose from a very laudable
+caution in an explorer, for had he stated that water would be found where
+it failed it might have cost men their lives. One place he marked
+springs, and if he had been mistaken there, we would have lost our lives;
+but I am glad to say that we found there a very good spring indeed,
+(cheers) enough to last all the sheep of South Australia, or at any rate
+a good spring; and I am glad on this occasion to be able to thank him for
+being so careful to mark permanent water where permanent water really
+existed. Mr. Giles's exploration would have been as useful to me as Mr.
+Gosse's, but unfortunately he did not return before I left the settled
+districts of West Australia, and therefore I did not benefit by his work.
+I am sure that my companions and myself feel very much the hearty
+reception you have given us on this occasion. I cannot find words to
+express my feelings on that point at all. I feel very deeply thankful,
+and that is about all that I can say. (Loud cheers.) Six weary
+travellers, travelling through the spinifex desert with about fifteen or
+sixteen nearly knocked-up horses, not knowing whether they should find
+water, or whether their lives were safe or not, I am sure that we could
+not imagine that, after all our travels were over, we should receive such
+a reception as we have received to-day. (Cheers.) I am sure that if any
+stimulus is required to induce persons to become explorers, those who
+witness our reception to-day ought to feel content. I am very proud of
+the hearty and enthusiastic reception my companions and myself have met
+with. I hope you will take the will for the deed, and in the absence of
+better speaking on my part, consider that we are deeply thankful." (Loud
+cheers.)
+
+Sir H. Ayers, K.C.M.G., had much pleasure in proposing a toast that had
+been allotted to him, and made no doubt that the company would have equal
+pleasure in responding to it. The toast was Early Explorers, and he had
+been requested to associate with it the name of Mr. John Chambers.
+(Cheers.) It seemed to be the lot of poor human nature that whenever we
+met for rejoicing there was always sure to be some little mournful
+circumstance attending it, and we could scarcely think of the early
+explorers without remembering with regret the noble leaders and brave
+members of former expeditions who have now passed to their eternal rest.
+There was the name of Sturt that came first in the list of our old
+explorers. There was the name and the likeness of a man far more familiar
+to many of them. There was Kekwick, and more recently poor McKinlay--all
+gone to their last account. But still he was proud to see, and he was
+sure it formed a source of gratification to that company, and especially
+so to our guest, so many brave men at the table who had been companions
+of those leaders and others in the early expeditions of this country.
+(Cheers.) He said it with pride, that in no other Australian colony could
+be seen such a group as sat at that table who had gone through the
+hardships and dangers of exploration; for with one or two exceptions all
+of them in the row were explorers. It was hardly possible for us to
+estimate how much we had benefited by those who had opened up the country
+for us. We were few in numbers and could not appreciate the work of the
+explorer; but generations yet unborn would bless the names of those men
+who had carried it out. (Cheers). He thought that it was doing only a
+just tribute to associate the name of Mr. John Chambers with this toast,
+because it might not be known to all present that Mr. Chambers, with his
+late brother James and Mr. W. Finke, enabled Mr. Stuart to accomplish the
+journeys that he made throughout the continent. (Cheers.) It was their
+capital and his great skill, for in the face of so many explorers he was
+not ashamed to say that Mr. McDouall Stuart was the greatest explorer
+that ever lived. It was their capital that had enabled him to perform the
+work which he had done, and for which his name would remain as a monument
+for ever in the memories of South Australians. For not only were we
+indebted to Stuart for the most valuable discoveries he had made, but he
+thought Mr. Todd would say that his indications had proved the most
+accurate. But he had also done a great thing for exploration in changing
+the modus operandi. He had been one of Sturt's party that went out with
+bullock-drays; but he had had genius, and had changed all that, starting
+upon exploring with light parties, and thus being able to accomplish so
+much, and he was glad to say that explorers since had followed up the
+same plan with great success. (Cheers.) And they were still further
+indebted to the Messrs. Chambers. They had not only assisted in
+discovering far-off country, but had been the first to invest their
+capital in stocking it and making it useful. He was sorry to see that
+there were not more Messrs. Chambers to go and do likewise; but he
+thought he saw signs of the spread of settlement further, for the toe of
+the agriculturist was very near upon the heel of the sheep-farmer, and if
+the sheep-farmers did not look out and get fresh fields and pastures new,
+they would soon find that the agriculturist was all too near. That was a
+question that he enlarged upon, especially in another place; but as
+brevity seemed to be the order of the night, he would only ask them to
+drink the health of The Early Explorers, coupled with the name of Mr.
+John Chambers.
+
+The toast was received with three cheers.
+
+Band: Auld lang syne.
+
+Mr. J. Chambers rose amid cheers, and said that he was proud to say that
+he had been connected with the earliest of our explorations, having been
+associated with the gallant Captain Sturt in his exploration of the
+Murray. After his arrival in the colony he had first travelled with him
+and the then Governor, the late Colonel Gawler, in exploring the south.
+They had had no difficulties and dangers to encounter then that some of
+the explorers of the present had to go through, and, although they
+travelled with heavy bullock-drays, managed to have plenty of water and
+food. Their principal difficulty lay in getting through the ranges to the
+south, and the interminable creeks and gullies which they got into and
+had to retrace their steps from. This was a small matter of exploration,
+and might at the present day appear absurd; but then there were doubts
+where the Angas was, and whether the Onkaparinga in Mount Barker District
+was not the Angas, and when beyond the hills they did not know whether
+Mount Barker was not Mount Lofty, and whether Mount Lofty was not some
+other mount. It was, however, done, and, having settled these matters by
+observation, they returned to Adelaide after an exploration of three
+weeks. They were on their return made small lions of, although they had
+not had to fight the natives, and had had bullock-drays with them, while
+their horses were in rather better condition than when they went out.
+There was no doubt that the subject of exploration was one of the most
+important to be considered by those who in the future would have to do
+with the country, as it was always well to have information beforehand;
+and, if Governor Gawler and Captain Sturt had known more, there would
+have been a different result to their exploration journey up the Murray.
+The gallant Captain Sturt had made Cooper's Creek his depot, and that
+place twelve months ago had been looked upon as a home by persons in
+search of country with a view of stocking it. His youngest son had been
+round there for five months, and had penetrated the country far and wide,
+and had often to retrace his steps there for water. They had heard from
+the young explorer, Mr. Forrest, how it was said when he came here before
+that he had only traversed the tracks of Mr. Eyre. So be it, and often
+was it said that Mr. Eyre did no good because he kept to the coast; but
+they had heard from Mr. Forrest that the tracks and descriptions of Mr.
+Eyre were of vast assistance to him. (Cheers.) Therefore no man could
+tell what good he might do; the finding of a spring in a desert might
+eventually become of great service to the descendants of those who lived
+at the time. There were some whom he wished could have been there, but
+Providence had ordained the contrary, and therefore he stood before them
+to say that it was for no purpose of self-aggrandizement, but for the
+purpose of good to the nation, that the early expeditions were promoted
+and conducted (cheers) and that the object of James Chambers, Finke,
+Stuart, and himself was to span this colony for the purpose of allowing a
+telegraph line to be laid. (Cheers.) When we read of the many times that
+Stuart was driven back by the force of circumstances, it could easily be
+conceived that he possessed a very energetic spirit. It was not once or
+twice that Stuart was driven back, but he was determined to penetrate the
+continent for the purpose, he was proud to know, of paving the way for
+telegraphic communication; and had it not been for his brother, Mr.
+Stuart, and himself, he was proud to say, we should not this day have had
+the telegraph. It was often said that there never would be a telegraph
+line, but their answer was always "yes." (Cheers). He thanked them
+heartily for the position in which they had placed him and Mr. Stuart's
+companions, and which they all appreciated. (Cheers).
+
+Mr. J.W. Billiat, who was imperfectly heard, also responded. He said that
+when he went out with Mr. Stuart he was only a new chum; but he went out
+and came back again, and there he was. He could not say much about Mr.
+Stuart's explorations, as all that needed to be said had been so ably put
+by Sir Henry Ayers. There was no country in the world that had so tried
+the endurance and perseverance of the men on exploring expeditions as
+South Australia had done, and explorers should receive all the credit
+that could be given. He knew the difficulty of travelling country like
+that Mr. Forrest had come across, as several of Mr. Stuart's party had
+travelled upon it trying to strike the Victoria River. If Mr. John
+Chambers's liberality were known, and the way he had entered into the
+question of exploration generally were known, his name would be brought
+into more prominence than it had. He had sat in the background, but he
+had found both money and energy.
+
+The Honourable W. Everard (Commissioner of Crown Lands) said the toast he
+had to give was The Government and People of Western Australia. Owing to a
+variety of circumstances, our relations with Western Australia had not
+been so intimate or close as those with the eastern colonies. That would
+be readily understood, because Western Australia, being a small colony,
+and self-reliant and independent, had troubled us very little
+--occasionally for a few tons of flour or a cargo of notions. Another reason
+was that it had not had telegraphic communication with us or the rest of
+the world, and it was separated from us by a large extent of country which
+till lately was considered little better than a howling wilderness. He was
+happy to say that by the enterprise of Western Australia the magic wire
+which annihilated time and distance would be laid between the two colonies
+before long; and he was happy to say the Legislature here had agreed to
+construct the South Australian part of the line, so that Western Australia
+would be placed in communication, not only with South Australia, but the
+world. (Cheers.) And again, with reference to that large tract of hitherto
+supposed desert country which lay between the two colonies, the experience
+of the gallant men he saw around him, and not only of the Messrs. Forrest,
+but of Warburton, Gosse, and Giles, had shown that it contained grassy
+valleys, mountain ranges, and permanent waters, and he believed that
+before long it would be occupied by squatters. We must remember that, in
+South Australia, close upon the heels of the explorer came the squatter
+with his flocks and herds, and he even was not long left in quiet
+enjoyment; and if his runs were good they were soon taken from him for
+agricultural purposes. Considering the progress that we were making in
+agriculture, it was high time we sought to enlarge our borders. Although
+it was true that the band of explorers who were now before them had only
+made a line through the country, we must remember that it would be a
+base-line for future operations. Their work was very different to making
+a forced march of two or three days when it was known there was permanent
+water ahead. The explorer had carefully and deliberately to feel his way
+into unknown country, and if he went a mile or two too far he could not
+retrace his steps, and we could not attach too much importance to the
+services of those individuals who had risked their lives in that way. It
+was said, when Edward John Eyre made that wonderful journey of his along
+the coast of Western Australia, that he had done nothing but gone along
+the coast; but along that very line there would be a telegraph to connect
+this colony with Western Australia. (Cheers.) It was true that Western
+Australia was the smallest of the Australian group, and she had not
+perhaps been so favoured as South Australia, as her country was not so
+good; but he believed, from the enterprise of her Government, and the
+courage, perseverance, and endurance shown by some of her sons, that she
+would yet take her place among the Australian group, and that at some
+future date she would be one of the provinces which would form one united
+Australia. (Cheers.)
+
+The toast was drunk with cheers.
+
+Mr. Alexander Forrest responded. He said he thanked them most cordially
+for having associated his name with that of the Government and people of
+Western Australia. He had had the honour for the last four years of being
+employed in the service of the Western Australian Government, and he
+could assure them that they had a very good Government. They had
+representative government, although not responsible government; but since
+they had been on their trip they had heard that it was proposed to
+establish constitutional government. He did not believe it would make
+much difference, but personally he was glad to see it. The people would
+have the management of their own money, and that he considered a good
+thing, for they were never satisfied till they had the control over it.
+When the party left, all the people of Western Australia were longing to
+do honour to and entertain Colonel Warburton; and, although they were a
+small people, they did their best, and what they did they did heartily.
+(Cheers.) If Mr. Gosse had got over they would have given him also a good
+reception. He had not expected to see as many people as he had seen that
+day. The streets were crowded, and, wherever he looked, some one seemed
+to be looking in that direction. (Laughter.) The toast included the
+people of Western Australia, and he could assure them that, as he had
+travelled through the length and breadth of the land, he knew every man
+in it, every squatter, every farmer, every rich man, every poor man, and
+every magistrate. This was not the first time that he had been exploring,
+as he accompanied his brother to this colony four years ago, and in 1871
+the Government sent him out in command of a party to find new land, when
+he went out about 600 miles. He thanked them for the very kind way in
+which they had spoken of his companions. Since they came to this colony
+they had been fed and clothed, and no one would take any money. (Cheers.)
+In the city he expected something great, but in the Burra, Gawler, and
+other places where they did not expect it, they had met with a hearty
+reception. He saw a great improvement in Adelaide. When he came here four
+years ago, the colony was not in such a good state, and a great many men
+were out of work; but now everything was in good order, and he believed
+South Australia would be one of the first colonies of Australia.
+(Cheers).
+
+Mr. William Gosse rose, and was received with loud cheers. He said he
+felt honoured by being invited on the present occasion, and had much
+pleasure in taking part in the reception of Mr. John Forrest and party.
+He would take that opportunity of making a few remarks. His instructions,
+when he was sent out, were to find a route as nearly as possible in a
+direct line from his starting-point upon the telegraph line to Perth,
+only deviating when obliged to do so for water. He had to feel his way as
+he advanced, form depots to secure his retreat if necessary, and
+accurately fix all points on his track. The last words the Honourable T.
+Reynolds had said to him were, "You fully understand that Perth is your
+destination, and not any other point on the western coast," or words to
+that effect. They would see by that, that had he been fortunate enough to
+discover the country by which Mr. Forrest got across, he should scarcely
+have been justified in proceeding. His farthest point west was between
+500 and 600 miles from the explored portion of the Murchison, and 360
+miles from the sources of the same. Copies of his diary and map had been
+forwarded to Mr. Forrest by Mr. Goyder on the 27th of February, 1874, the
+originals of which had been ready for publication on his arrival on the
+telegraph line, and had not been compiled after their return to Adelaide,
+as some people supposed from the delay in their publication. He made
+these statements partly in self-defence, as remarks had been made by
+members in the House to the effect that the Government had fitted out an
+expedition at an enormous expense which had done comparatively nothing,
+though his map showed 50,000 square miles of country.
+
+Sir John Morphett had been asked to propose the toast of The Australian
+Colonies. It was a very large toast indeed at the present time even, and
+what it might be in the future it was impossible to say. He hoped that it
+would be something wonderful. (Cheers.) At the present time the immense
+country was occupied by 2,000,000 people, and we could not with that
+number get on. What we wanted was more population. What were the products
+which Australia could produce? First of all was wheat--the best in the
+world. Then there were wine and wool, and lead, and gold, and copper,
+tin, and sugar. These were all products that the world wanted, and all
+that we required to make our production of these a success was
+federation. We should have greater individual strength and prosperity,
+and greater universal strength and prosperity if we were federated, and
+we would in time become what we wanted to be--a nation. (Cheers.) Let
+them come to West Australia, which was the birth-place of their esteemed
+and energetic friend Mr. Forrest. He was glad to see that she had at last
+freed herself from the shackles of that curse of convictism, and could
+now go hand in hand with the other colonies in the march of progress. He
+gave them the toast of the Colonies of Australia, coupling with it the
+name of Mr. Ernest Giles.
+
+The toast having been duly honoured, Mr. Ernest Giles rose to respond,
+and was met with cheers. He had been called upon to respond to this
+toast, which, as Sir John Morphett had told them, was a very
+comprehensive one--so comprehensive that he was sure that he would fail
+to do it justice. What he had to say therefore on the subject would not
+detain them long. Sir John Morphett had touched upon the progress and
+prosperity of the colonies, and there was no doubt that at the present
+time the colonies were in a far more prosperous state than they had ever
+been in before. With regard to federation, a gentleman high in the
+service here, speaking to him, had said that if that was carried out
+exploration should not be forgotten, but that fresh lines should be taken
+with the co-operation of all the colonies. The splendid success which had
+attended Mr. Forrest would, he had no doubt, tend greatly to promote the
+ultimate prosperity of the colonies. (Applause.)
+
+Mr. John Forrest, in a few complimentary words, proposed the health of
+the Chairman, which was well received and acknowledged.
+
+VISIT TO GAWLER AND MELBOURNE.
+
+A few days afterwards I was honoured by an invitation from Gawler to lay
+the first stone of a monument to commemorate the achievements of the late
+Mr. John McKinlay, the leader of the Burke Relief Expedition, and the
+explorer, under great difficulties, of the northern territory. Mr.
+McKinlay died at Gawler in December, 1874, and it was resolved to
+perpetuate his memory by the erection of an obelisk in the cemetery. The
+14th of November was the day appointed for the ceremony, and after I had
+laid the stone with the customary forms, there was a luncheon, presided
+over by Mr. W.F. Wincey, the Mayor of Gawler. He delivered a really
+eloquent address, describing the character and heroic labours of the
+distinguished explorer, whose achievements we were celebrating. My own
+health and that of my brother was proposed, and in responding (my brother
+not being present) I once more took occasion to express the deep sense,
+on the part of all my associates, of the kindness with which we had been
+received.
+
+After this my brother and I paid a flying visit to Melbourne, where we
+remained a few days, and received much attention from the Governor, Sir
+George Bowen, the Mayor of Melbourne, and others; and then, on the 5th of
+December, we bade farewell to our South Australian friends and started on
+our homeward voyage. On the 10th we reached King George's Sound, where we
+were heartily welcomed and presented with a congratulatory address. At
+Banbury and Fremantle we were received with kindness and enthusiastic
+demonstrations. At Banbury we met Mr. Weld. He was on his way to King
+George's Sound, en route for his new Government in Tasmania. He welcomed
+us very heartily, and expressed his regret that he was unable to receive
+us at Perth. The popular air, When Johnny comes marching home again, was
+selected as extremely appropriate to the occasion, and after a champagne
+breakfast at the residence of the Chairman of the Municipal Council, Mr.
+Marmion, at Fremantle, we left for Perth in a carriage and six, Tommy
+Windich and Tommy Pierre riding on gaily-decked horses immediately behind
+us.
+
+On reaching Perth we were met by the Commandant, Colonel Harvest, the
+chairman and members of the Reception Committee, and representatives of
+the Friendly Societies. The streets were crowded, and on our way to the
+Town Hall we were enthusiastically cheered. Mr. Randell, the Chairman of
+the Perth Municipality, read an address of welcome. I need not repeat
+what I said in reply; my words were but the expression of what has been
+felt ever since our perilous journey was completed--thankfulness that I
+had been preserved and strengthened to do my duty, and that I had been so
+well supported by brave and faithful companions. But I will quote the
+characteristic speech of Tommy Pierre, who returned thanks on behalf of
+the party--Windich was called on, but could not summon courage to say a
+word. Tommy said, "Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful to come back to
+Swan River, and Banbury, Fremantle, and Perth. I thought we was never to
+get back. (Laughter.) Many a time I go into camp in the morning, going
+through desert place, and swear and curse and say, 'Master, where the
+deuce are you going to take us?' I say to him, 'I'll give you a pound to
+take us back.' (Cheers and laughter.) Master say, 'Hush! what are you
+talking about? I will take you all right through to Adelaide;' and I
+always obey him. Gentlemen, I am thankful to you that I am in the Town
+Hall. That's all I got to say." (Cheers.)
+
+No doubt we all shared Tommy's thankfulness, and I am sure his homely
+language very fairly expressed the spirit in which all my associates had
+shown their confidence in me during our long journey.
+
+A banquet and ball were given in the Town Hall. Mr. Randell presided at
+the former, supported by the Bishop of Perth; Sir Archibald P. Burt, the
+Chief Justice; the Honourable the Commandant; Mr. L.S. Leake, Speaker of
+the Legislative Council; the Honourable A. O'Grady Lefroy, Colonial
+Treasurer, and other gentlemen of high position. The newspapers published
+the following report of the principal speeches delivered:--
+
+The Chairman gave His Excellency the Governor, whose unavoidable absence
+he, in common with every one present, deeply regretted, knowing full well
+the deep interest his Excellency had always evinced in connexion with
+exploration, and especially in connexion with the expedition so
+successfully carried through by their guests that evening.
+
+The toast was drunk amid loud cheering.
+
+The Chairman next gave The Army, Navy, and Volunteers, which was duly
+honoured.
+
+The Honourable the Commandant, in responding for the Army and the Navy,
+heartily thanked the assembly for the loyal manner in which the toast had
+been received. The toast of the British Army and Navy, always appropriate
+at a banquet where Britons were assembled, was particularly appropriate
+on the present occasion, gathered together as they were to do honour to
+valour. (Cheers.) It was needless for him to state that--all knew
+it--British soldiers, well equipped, properly provided in every way, and
+properly led, would go anywhere, and face any mortal thing; and so, it
+appeared, would West Australians, true sons of Great Britain. The other
+day, at the presentation of the address given to Mr. Forrest by the
+citizens of Perth, he (the Commandant), alluding to the young explorer's
+gallant and truly heroic services in the field of exploration, had said
+that, were he a soldier, the distinguished feat he had accomplished would
+have entitled him to be decorated with the soldier's most honourable mark
+of distinction--the Victoria Cross. (Cheers.) Now he had no desire to
+accord Mr. Forrest the least particle of credit beyond what he honestly
+believed he was entitled to, but he meant to say this--that Mr. Forrest
+had displayed all the noblest characteristics of a British soldier under
+circumstances by no means as favourable for arousing a spirit of
+intrepidity, and for stimulating bravery, as was in operation on a
+battle-field, amidst the all-powerful excitement of an engagement with
+the enemy, urged on to deeds of valour by the examples of comrades. Who
+or what had Mr. Forrest and his little band of followers to cheer them
+on; to urge them forward on their perilous and dreary enterprise? What
+surrounding circumstances encouraged them to face unknown dangers? He
+should think that many a wearisome day and night in crossing the arid,
+trackless desert-path he was traversing, he would, on laying down his
+head to rest, say, "Would for bedtime in Perth, and all well!" Nothing
+daunted, however, by perils, privations, and difficulties, he carried his
+enterprise successfully through; and although there were no Victoria
+Crosses for distinguished services of that nature, there, nevertheless,
+was an order of merit for rewarding exploits such as Mr. Forrest had
+performed, and he most heartily and sincerely trusted that the decoration
+of honour conferred upon the gallant Warburton would be likewise
+conferred on Mr. Forrest. (Applause.)
+
+Captain Birch briefly responded on behalf of the Volunteers.
+
+The Chairman then said the pleasing duty devolved upon him to propose the
+toast which was in reality the toast of the evening, and to ask them to
+drink with him The Health and Prosperity of Mr. John Forrest and his
+Party. (Cheers.) Nine months ago, within a day, they had undertaken a
+perilous journey across an unknown country, to accomplish what was
+believed by many to be an impossible task on account of the terrible
+nature of that country. What dangers, what difficulties, what privations
+they had suffered in carrying out their daring enterprise, and what the
+result of their arduous labours had been, was already known to most if
+not all of those now present, a succinct chronicle of their journey
+having been published in the South Australian and in the local
+newspapers. To-night they were amongst them safe and sound, having been
+saved by Almighty Providence from dangers which they could not have
+contended with, and surmounted difficulties which but for such Divine
+help must have been insuperable. All honour to them; all honour to the
+brave men who had assisted to achieve such a victory, of which even Mr.
+Forrest and his companions might well be proud, and the advantages of
+which he felt that we could not yet fully appreciate. (Cheers.) The
+Honourable the Commandant had spoken so ably of their victory that little
+remained for him to add. He, however, ventured to differ from the gallant
+Commandant on one point, namely, that, when compassed on all sides by
+difficulties, far from aid, succour, or assistance of any kind, Mr.
+Forrest must have wished himself back in Perth, all well. He (Mr.
+Randell) did not believe that such a thought ever entered Mr. Forrest's
+head, fully determined as he was to cross the continent, or perish in the
+attempt. He was sure that not even the golden reward offered by Tommy
+Pierre, for turning back, exerted any influence on his gallant leader's
+mind; on the contrary, they found him quietly rebuking Tommy's failing
+courage with a "hush" and a promise to take him right through to
+Adelaide. Mr. Forrest's courage never failed him on the way, nor had they
+any reason to believe that the courage of any member of his party had
+really failed in the face of the terrible difficulties they had
+encountered, and, by God's help, surmounted. (Applause.) They all had
+read of the Olympic games of the ancient Greeks, and the kindred sports
+indulged in by the Romans of old. Their athletic contests being conducted
+in the presence of immense crowds of spectators naturally stimulated the
+athletes to distinguish themselves; the applause of their fellow-citizens
+urged them on to strive with might and main to win the crown of laurel or
+ivy leaves with which the brow of the victor was decked. He well
+remembered an incident recorded in Grecian history, where two brothers
+had been engaged in an athletic contest and been victorious. When they
+came forth to receive the crown which rewarded their victory, their aged
+father--who himself, in his younger days, had been an athlete--was
+present, and the sons placed their crown on his venerable head. He was
+sorry that the father of the young heroes whom they were then
+entertaining was not present to witness the reward freely bestowed upon
+his sons by their fellow-countrymen. (Cheers.) Our South Australian
+neighbours, in their magnificent reception of Mr. Forrest and his party,
+had given us a good example of how to appreciate and reward noble deeds,
+and it must be pleasing to every Western Australian to reflect on the
+cordiality of that reception. (Applause.) He thought the colony would be
+neglecting its duty if it did not, as one man, recognize the extreme
+kindness which had been shown our gallant explorers by the people and by
+the Government of our sister colony--South Australia. (Cheers.) It was a
+pleasing trait in Mr. Forrest's character that he had not been at all
+spoilt by the enthusiastic and really splendid ovation he and his party
+had received at the hands of our southern neighbours; nothing could be
+more admirable than his unaffected modesty and unassuming deportment in
+the face of such a reception. The life of a lion did not spoil their
+young hero, nor, as the Inquirer had said that morning, did he think it
+would suit him long; for however tempting it might be to some people to
+live upon laurels well earned, such men as Mr. Forrest had no difficulty
+in overcoming the temptation to ease and repose, however deserving and
+indisputable his claims thereto. (Cheers.) He believed with the Inquirer
+that it was Mr. Forrest's natural instinct to lead a hard life in the
+cause of exploration. He belonged--not by birth it was true, but through
+his parents--to a country that had produced such men as Mungo Park;
+Bruce, who explored the sources of the Nile; and Campbell, who, labouring
+in the same cause, traversed the wilds of Africa; and that greatest and
+noblest of all explorers, the dead but immortal Livingstone. (Cheers.)
+Mr. Forrest's achievements had entitled his name to stand side by side in
+the page of history with men of that stamp and others who had placed the
+human family under such great obligations by their undaunted and
+self-denying efforts in the cause of exploration. (Cheers.) It would not
+perhaps be right on his part to refer to the pecuniary reward which the
+Legislature had voted as an honorarium to Mr. Forrest and his party, but
+he would say this much--and he believed every one in the colony would be
+in accord with him--that the public would not have grumbled, on the
+contrary, would have been glad if the grant had been 1000 pounds and not
+500 pounds. (Hear, hear.) He did not think for a moment that the
+Legislative Council thought that 500 pounds was the measure of the value
+of Mr. Forrest's services; they were rather influenced by the extent of
+the public revenue and the ability of the country to pay a larger amount;
+nevertheless, he would have been pleased, and the public would have been
+pleased, had the vote been more commensurate with the value of those
+services. (Cheers.) In asking the present assembly to join him in
+drinking the toast of Mr. Forrest's health and that of his party, he
+considered it was as if he moved a vote of thanks on behalf of the colony
+for the labours in which they had been associated, for the honour they
+had conferred on their country, and he would ask them to join him in
+heartily drinking the toast. (Cheers.)
+
+The toast was received with several rounds of cheering.
+
+The Commandant rose in explanation, and said he never for a moment meant
+to infer that in the midst of his greatest difficulties Mr. Forrest ever
+thought of giving up his task. What he said was that he must have often,
+in lying down his head after a wearisome day's journey, wished himself at
+home in Perth all well, with his enterprise accomplished, but not
+otherwise (cheers). He did not believe that Mr. Forrest ever winced at
+danger, ever swerved from the path he had laid out for himself to
+traverse.
+
+Mr. John Forrest, on rising, was received with applause, which rose to
+ringing cheers. Upon the subsiding of the applause, Mr. Forrest said,
+"Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, I feel that I ought to say a great deal on
+this occasion, but I really hardly know what to say. I can, of course,
+say that I sincerely thank you for your kindness in inviting myself and
+companions to this great banquet, and when I say that, I trust you will
+give me credit for saying what I feel in my heart of hearts. But I feel I
+have much more than this to say this evening, knowing as I do that I
+would disappoint you if I did not address you at some length. I will
+endeavour to muster the words and the courage to do so; as you know,
+public speaking is not my forte, and if I fail in satisfying your
+expectations, you must accept the will for the deed (cheers). When I had
+the honour of being entertained at a public banquet at Adelaide, I had a
+good deal to say there of my career up to the present; but here I need
+not say a word about my antecedents, for most of you have known me from
+my childhood (cheers). For the last few years you all know I have had
+some little to do with exploration, and for me to tell you anything of my
+past experience would be simply waste of time and waste of words. You
+will, however, expect me to say something of our latest enterprise. I had
+been for some time animated by a desire to explore the untrodden interior
+of our island continent. I had, as you know, been twice before in the
+field; once in an eastward direction, and once along the south sea-board
+to Adelaide--the latter, I was told, being considered a very small
+undertaking, quite a coasting trip, and one on account of which we could
+not lay claim to much credit. I therefore was desirous of penetrating the
+mystery that shrouded the interior, and, with that object in view, I used
+my utmost endeavours to organize an expedition in that direction. Without
+the support and co-operation of one who I am sorry not to see here this
+evening, he having quitted the metropolis--his Excellency Governor
+Weld--my endeavours, I may safely say, would not have resulted in the
+organization of the expedition I had at heart, and I should not have been
+here to-night, occupying the proud position which I do. (Cheers.) My
+proposition to his Excellency, through the Commissioner of Crown Lands,
+was warmly received, and cordially espoused by the Executive. Any one can
+see it on application, together with his Excellency's minute, which was
+very complimentary to me. The proposition was carried through the
+Legislative Council, and a small sum of money was voted for the
+expedition, without which it could not probably have been organized and
+fitted out. I am happy to say that our trip is not likely to cost much
+more than the amount voted (400 pounds). Possibly the expense may reach
+600 pounds or so; if it does, I have no doubt the Legislature will
+willingly vote the extra amount. (Hear, hear.) If it does not, of course
+we keep to the original proposition, and we shall only ask for the 400
+pounds. I am quite prepared to abide by the original arrangement; but I
+think that every man in the colony is satisfied that the expedition was
+conducted at the least possible expense, and that we all tried to do our
+very best. (Cheers.) I scarcely think it is necessary for me to enter
+into any details of our journey; I have already given the most salient
+points in my published telegraphic despatch to the Government. We
+experienced some difficulties, no doubt, and some few privations, but I
+can assure you none of us ever thought of turning back. (Cheers.) On one
+occasion, I admit, the thought did enter my head that, possibly, we might
+have to turn back, but I did not tell any member of the party a word
+about it. The thought haunted me at night, and I could not sleep; and had
+we to carry it into execution we should have probably found ourselves
+coming out somewhere near Victoria Plains, and it struck me that I should
+be greeted with such expressions as "Well, old man, I am glad to see you
+back, but I am sorry you could not get through." I knew people would be
+glad to see us back, but their satisfaction at our safe return would be
+alloyed with regret at our failure to get right across; so I said to
+myself, "I never can face that; I must try again," and try again we did,
+and you know the result. (Cheers.) I candidly tell you that the thought
+struck me that if we were baffled in our efforts to penetrate through, it
+might be all the better for this colony, inasmuch as there would be a
+saving of expense thereby, although the credit due to me would be
+considerably diminished. But I did not care so much for that. When,
+however, I reached the settled portions of South Australia, I was very
+anxious to get right through to the telegraph line, just to show our
+neighbours that we could get across. From the date of our arrival at
+Peake Station, you know how cordially we were received throughout the
+rest of our journey, and with what kindness we were treated. Probably all
+of you have read of our enthusiastic reception at Adelaide. I never saw
+so many people in my life before, nor such a demonstration. They say
+there were 20,000 persons present. I thought there were 100,000 present.
+(Laughter.) As for my brother, he seemed enchanted with the sight, and
+especially with the ladies. He has said he thought they were all looking
+at him. On the contrary, gentlemen, I thought they were all looking at
+me. (Laughter.) Every one we came in contact with, both high and low,
+treated us most kindly. The same again in Melbourne. (Cheers.) Now, I
+must say a word or two about my first impressions on visiting Melbourne.
+The first object of interest that caught my attention was the splendid
+monument erected to the memory of the gallant explorers, Burke and Wills.
+Baron von Mueller kindly met me on the jetty when we landed, and I
+accompanied him in a cab to have an interview with the Governor. When we
+came in sight of this monument I asked the Baron to stop while I alighted
+to inspect it. He courteously did so. Gentlemen, a thrilling feeling came
+over me on looking on that memorial of two brave men who sacrificed their
+lives in the cause of exploration. The monument represents poor Burke
+standing over Wills, who is kneeling down. The first relief represents
+the party leaving Melbourne, and the popular demonstration accorded them;
+in the next place the return from Carpentaria is depicted, and the
+discovery of a depot where some provisions had been deposited. There is
+King in the act of holding a candle, Burke reading a letter, and Wills's
+head is peering over his shoulder. Further on there is a relief
+representing the death of the brave leader with his revolver grasped in
+his hand. On the other side there is Howitt and his party finding King,
+the sole survivor of Burke's party, among a number of black fellows, with
+whom he had been living for several weeks--the black fellows looking
+aghast at the relief party. Several times afterwards, during my stay in
+Melbourne, I went to look at this monument, and it always sent a thrill
+through my very soul. (Cheers.) Gentlemen, in conclusion, I must again
+express my gratitude for the kind manner in which you have received me
+and the members of my party back amongst you. My only consolation, in the
+face of the ovations I have received, is that we all tried to do our very
+best. (Cheers.) As to the vote of the Legislature, alluded to by your
+chairman, while I thank him heartily for his liberal spirit, I assure you
+I am very well satisfied indeed. (Applause.) When I started on the
+expedition I never expected one farthing of honorarium from the public
+funds; but though I am modest I am not altogether unselfish, and I did
+expect what I think every Briton expects from his countrymen when he does
+his best--but what he does not always get--the thanks of my
+fellow-colonists. (Cheers.) That I HAVE received most abundantly, and I
+am quite satisfied with it, and so I think are all the members of my
+party. We are also quite content with, and thankful for, the provision
+made for us by the Legislative Council. I don't know whether I shall
+again appear before you as an explorer, or whether I shall rest on my
+laurels, as the Inquirer said to-day. I can only say that if my services
+are required I shall be found ready and willing. (Cheers.) In the toast
+you have so enthusiastically drank my companions are very properly
+associated with myself, for I am much indebted to them for their hearty
+co-operation. They always endeavoured to do what I desired, and the most
+friendly feelings existed amongst us throughout the journey. (Cheers.) I
+never withheld from them any information as to our whereabouts or our
+movements; the maps, route, and the observations taken during the
+expedition were always open for their inspection, so that they could see
+our exact position from day to day. I had no secrets from them (hear,
+hear), and this confidence was reciprocated on their part. I never had
+occasion to check or to use an angry word to one of my party. They one
+and all always showed readiness and willingness to obey my
+instructions--in fact, I seldom had any occasion to instruct them; and I
+gladly avail myself of this opportunity to thank them publicly for their
+exemplary conduct. (Cheers.) On their behalf, as well as on my own
+behalf, I once more also thank you most sincerely for the honour you have
+done us and the kindness you have shown us. I hope that our future career
+will show that we are not altogether unworthy of that kindness." (Loud
+cheers.)
+
+Tommy Pierre, one of the aboriginals attached to the expedition, then
+stepped forward, and, addressing the assembly, said: I only black fellow,
+you know; nothing at all but just a few words. I ought to give you good
+lecture. (Laughter.) Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful that I got into
+the city of Perth; that people give me welcome and everything. I am
+always thankful to any person that brought me into city of Perth.
+(Laughter.) When I speak so of city of Perth I don't speak wrong at all,
+what I speak is true and true. Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful to the
+people in Perth at the Town Hall; I am very thankful to every one that
+welcome me. I am always very glad to see white fellows around me. In
+Bunbury, Governor Weld spoke to me and say he left me a present in city
+of Perth, and I hope I will get it too. (Cheers and laughter.) Governor
+Weld is a splendid fellow; splendid governor. Well, gentlemen, I am all
+thankful; my last word is--I am thankful to you all. (Cheers.)
+
+Mr. Randell: In consequence of the absence of the Surveyor-General--from
+what cause I am unable to state--his lordship Bishop Hale has kindly
+consented to propose the next toast. (Cheers.)
+
+His Lordship, on rising, was received most cordially. He said that the
+toast which had just been entrusted to him was one that would have been
+better proposed by the Surveyor-General. The sentiment was Australian
+Exploration. It so happened that ever since he had arrived in Australia
+he had been very much interested in exploration, and much mixed up with
+persons engaged in that work. He had known the veteran explorer Sturt,
+the discoverer of South Australia; and he had also been acquainted with
+his brave companion, John McDouall Stuart, who had marked out the route
+subsequently followed by the trans-continental telegraph line from
+Adelaide to Port Darwin, for, wonderful to say, no better route could
+afterwards be discovered; the map of Stuart's journey and the map of the
+telegraph line were almost identical. With regard to Mr. Forrest's
+exploratory labours, referred to with unaffected and characteristic
+modesty by the young explorer himself, his lordship believed that great
+and practical results would follow, and that, even as Stuart's track from
+south to north of the continent had become the line of communication
+between those two extreme points, so would the path traversed by Mr.
+Forrest become, some day or other, the line of communication through the
+central portion of the continent from West to South Australia. (Cheers.)
+With respect to the necessity for exploration, no doubt it was a very
+essential work to be carried out. Whenever he had gone to distant and
+sequestered parts of the colony in the exercise of his ecclesiastical
+functions, and was called upon to console people so situated as to be cut
+off from the blessings of regular ministration, he was in the habit of
+saying to them, "Although you are at present cut off, yet you may believe
+that God in His providence has designed that His world shall be
+inhabited, and ordained that pioneers shall go forth into desert places
+in order to accomplish that end." Explorers, therefore, like Mr. Forrest,
+might well feel that in devoting themselves to the work of exploration
+they were doing their duty to God and to their country in seeking to
+discover new fields, likely to be of practical use as new settlements for
+the ever-increasing human family. Their efforts in that direction, often
+purchased with much suffering and privation, entitled explorers to be
+classed in the front rank of benefactors to mankind. (Applause.) The
+population of the world was continuously increasing, and new settlements
+became a necessity. In London alone it was said there was a birth every
+five minutes. What, then, must be the population of the British empire if
+the increase in one city was at that rate? It was but due to Mr. Forrest
+and to all such explorers that they should receive the thanks of their
+fellow-men for devoting their lives to so desirable a work as the
+discovery of new country, fitted for the habitation of civilized men.
+(Applause.) He would not trespass any further on the patience of the
+assembly: he was present in order to join in that general feeling of
+admiration which Mr. Forrest's exploit had evoked. Cooler courage and
+greater heroism could not be displayed under any circumstances than were
+displayed by his young friend on his right, circumstanced as he had been
+on divers occasions during his journey, with his life and the lives of
+his brave companions frequently in imminent peril. (Cheers.) Mr. Forrest
+had just told them that he did not think it necessary to enter into the
+details of that journey, inasmuch as the most important particulars
+connected therewith had already appeared in his telegraphic despatch to
+the Government, published in the local newspapers. That telegram was
+certainly one of the most explicit and distinct records of the kind that
+his lordship had ever perused. He had paid but a moderate degree of
+attention to it, but had experienced no difficulty whatever in pricking
+out Mr. Forrest's track on a map, and in forming a distinct conception of
+his journey. (Cheers.) It only remained for his lordship to ask them to
+join him in drinking the sentiment of Australian Exploration, and at the
+same time to drink the health of Mr. Alexander Forrest, whose name was
+coupled with it. (Cheers.)
+
+The toast was enthusiastically honoured, the band playing The Song of
+Australia.
+
+Mr. A. Forrest, on rising, was received with applause. He was
+indistinctly heard at the reporter's table, owing to the distance which
+separated him from it, and the constant hum of conversation, which by
+this time was becoming general. He was understood to express the proud
+satisfaction he felt at being present that evening, and more especially
+as his name had been associated with the toast of Australian Exploration.
+The sentiment was a wide one, and they need not suppose that he was going
+to enter into the history of all Australian explorations that had taken
+place. He was sure that time would not admit of his making even cursory
+remarks upon these events. Mr. Forrest then alluded to the exploratory
+labours of Stuart--perhaps the greatest of Australian explorers--of
+McKinlay, of Burke and Wills, of Captain Roe, and the Gregorys, and of
+the veteran Warburton. The hospitality shown by this colony to the
+last-named gallant explorer had produced a lasting feeling of gratitude
+throughout South Australia. The manner in which our southern neighbours
+spoke of the kind treatment extended by the inhabitants of this colony to
+that aged explorer, from the day he reached our north-west settlements to
+the hour he embarked on board steamer for Adelaide, reflected honourably
+upon the hospitable nature of West Australian people. Mr. Elder, one of
+the enterprising gentlemen at whose expense the expedition was organized
+and equipped, had told him (Mr. Forrest) that he never heard of such
+kindness. The South Australians, however, were not long before an
+opportunity was afforded them of returning that hospitality, and they
+certainly had not neglected the opportunity. Than the treatment which the
+party to which he had the honour of belonging had received at the hands
+of the people of South Australia nothing could be kinder--nothing could
+possibly be more hospitable. Every house was thrown open to them; their
+horses were fed free of charge; it did not cost them a single penny in
+travelling; everywhere they were met with the most cordial reception.
+Their triumphal entry into Adelaide was a demonstration worthy of a
+prince. (Cheers.) Having thanked his fellow-colonists for the very hearty
+reception accorded them on their return, Mr. Forrest spoke in very
+complimentary terms of the other members of the expedition. The two
+natives were first-rate fellows, and, as for Sweeney and Kennedy, he
+would never wish to have better companions in the bush. They were always
+for going ahead; no thought of turning back ever entered their heads; in
+their greatest privations not a murmur escaped their lips. (Loud cheers.)
+
+Mr. L.S. Leake said: "The toast I have to propose is South Australia and
+the Sister Colonies--a sentiment which I think might most appropriately
+have immediately followed on the speech of my noble friend, Mr. John
+Forrest, who by his remarks paved the way to the few words I have to say.
+Why South Australia should be placed before the other colonies on this
+occasion it is not difficult to conjecture. She has, above all others,
+gained our affection by her kind and hospitable treatment of our
+fellow-colonists, our respected guests this evening who were received in
+Adelaide with even greater honour than the son of our beloved Queen.
+(Cheers.) With reference to Mr. Forrest himself, Western Australia should
+be proud of having produced such a man; and I only wish I had arrived in
+the colony four years and a half earlier, so that I might lay claim to
+having been born here.  Many of those around me are natives of Western
+Australia; and although I am proud of Old England, my native country, I
+should have been glad to boast of having been born in the same colony as
+John Forrest. All of his fellow-colonists should be proud that Mr.
+Forrest has accomplished a feat which the whole civilized world must
+admire. (Cheers.) I did think that the Surveyor-General would have
+considered it worthy of his coming here to-night to join us in doing
+honour to Mr. Forrest, and that he would have introduced you to a
+gentleman connected with the Government of Victoria, now in this
+colony--Mr. Wardell, the Inspector-General of Public Works, for whose
+services we are under deep obligation. I believe him to be an excellent
+engineer, and in examining our harbour at Fremantle he will be the right
+man in the right place. Had he, however, been in his right place
+to-night, he would have been here amongst us, introduced by the
+Surveyor-General, and we should thus have an opportunity of publicly
+thanking the Victorian Government for granting us the benefit of his
+services. (Hear, hear.) But, though Victoria is not represented at this
+festive gathering, South Australia is, and that by a gentleman whose name
+it affords me great pleasure to connect with the toast which has been
+entrusted to me. This colony was established in the year 1829, and in
+1830 there arrived amongst us one of our pioneer settlers, a good,
+worthy, honest--I cannot say English, but Scotch--gentleman, Mr. Walter
+Boyd Andrews, than whom a more upright man never landed on our shores. He
+is represented here to night by his eldest son, with whom I spent the
+greater portion of my younger days, and who for the last ten years has
+been Registrar-General of the colony of South Australia. I have,
+therefore, much pleasure in associating his name with the toast which I
+now ask you to join me in drinking, Prosperity to South Australia and the
+Sister Colonies." (Cheers.)
+
+The toast was drunk with loud cheering, the band playing Pull, pull
+together.
+
+Mr. Andrews, in response, said: "Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, I rise at
+once to return thanks, because I always fancy that words spoken on the
+spur of the moment come from the very heart. I will first of all dispose
+of myself, having been taken completely by surprise in finding my name
+associated with the sentiment proposed by my old friend, Mr. Leake. I
+thank you most heartily for the honour you have done me, and the kind
+manner in which you have responded to the toast. As regards South
+Australia and the Sister Colonies, you have done South Australia the
+proud honour of giving her precedence over her sisters of the group,
+thereby showing, as Mr. Leake has said, the warmth of your affection
+towards her, which kindly feeling, I sincerely believe, is reciprocated
+on her part. The cordial reception accorded to your gallant explorers is
+an earnest of that feeling, and I think I may venture to say that the
+colony which I have the honour to serve will at all times extend a hearty
+welcome to any West Australian colonist. There is, I assure you, a very
+affectionate feeling entertained by South Australians towards this
+colony--a feeling that has been in existence for a long time, and which
+is growing deeper and deeper every day. She is not only willing to extend
+the right hand of friendship to you, but, as you know, has expressed her
+readiness to meet you half way across the desert that separates you from
+each other by means of the telegraph. (Cheers.) She does not feel jealous
+that you should receive telegraphic intelligence from the outside world
+earlier than she does; on the contrary, she is anxious that you should be
+placed in the same advantageous position as regards telegraphic
+communication as your other sisters are. (Applause.) Gentlemen, on her
+behalf, and on my own behalf, I thank you most heartily for the kind
+manner in which this toast has been received."
+
+
+
+RESULTS OF THE EXPLORATIONS.
+
+Since then, in the summer of 1875, I have visited Europe and received
+many proofs of the interest felt by Englishmen in Australian exploration.
+In the colonies, too, I find that the spirit of adventure which
+stimulates settlers to follow eagerly in the steps of the pioneer has
+been active. Already stations are being advanced on each side along the
+shores of the Great Bight, and a telegraph line is being constructed from
+King George's Sound to Adelaide, along my route of 1870, which will
+connect Western Australia with the telegraph systems of the world.
+Farther north, towards the head waters of the Murchison, advances have
+been made, and I and other explorers must feel a gratification, which
+gives ample reward for all our toil, in knowing that we have made some
+advance at least towards a more complete knowledge of the interior of
+vast and wonderful Australia.
+
+
+APPENDIX TO JOURNAL.
+
+1.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS, ETC., COLLECTED ON EXPEDITION;
+
+SHOWING ALSO THE LOCALITY FROM WHICH THEY WERE TAKEN:
+
+BY BARON VON MUELLER, C.M.G., ETC.
+
+CAMP 21.
+Latitude 25 degrees 57 minutes 32 seconds South; longitude 117 degrees 20
+minutes East:--
+Cassia desolata. Trichodesma Zeilonicum. Stylobasium spatulatum. Psoralea
+Cucantha. Scaevola spiniscens. Sida petrophila. Codonocarpus
+cotinifolius. Adriana tomentosa. Salsola Kali.
+
+CAMP 31.
+Latitude 26 degrees 8 minutes 31 seconds South; longitude 119 degrees 18
+minutes East:--
+Acacia aneura. Oeschynomene Indica. Eremophila longifola. Cassia Sturtii.
+Plectronia latifolia.
+
+CAMP 33.
+Latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes South; longitude 119 degrees 32 minutes
+East:--
+Santalum Preissianum. Plectronia latifolia.
+
+CAMP 36.
+Latitude 26 degrees 17 minutes 12 seconds South; longitude 119 degrees 53
+minutes East:--
+Brachychiton Gregorii. Dodonaea petiolaris. Cassia artemisioides.
+Eremophila latifolia. Hakea lorea. Acacia aneura. Eremophila longifolia.
+
+CAMP 40.
+Latitude 25 degrees 38 minutes 44 seconds South; longitude 120 degrees 38
+minutes East:--
+Cassia eremophila. Eremophila longifolia.
+
+CAMP 46.
+Latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds South; longitude 121 degrees 22
+minutes East:--
+Stemodia viscosa. Eremophila longifolia. Sida petrophila. Adriana
+tomentosa. Convolvulus erubescens. Cassia Sturtii. Hakea lorea.
+
+Camp 48.
+Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds South; longitude 121 degrees 57
+minutes East:--
+Acacia aneura. Eremophila longifolia. Cassia eremophila. Cassia desolata.
+Eremophila Brownii. Loranthus Exocarpi.
+
+CAMP 52.
+Latitude 25 degrees 41 minutes 23 seconds South; longitude 122 degrees 53
+minutes East:--
+Pappophorum commune. Cassia eremophila. Acacia salicina. Santalum
+lanceolatum. Senecio lantus. Eremophila Duttoni. Ptilotus alopecuroides.
+Brunonia Australis. Hakea lorea. Cassia eremophila. Eremophila
+longifolia.
+
+CAMP 59.
+Latitude 25 degrees 43 minutes 8 seconds South; longitude 124 degrees 10
+minutes East:--
+Cassia notabilis. Cassia artemisioides.
+
+CAMP 61.
+Latitude 25 degrees 53 minutes 23 seconds South; longitude 124 degrees 31
+minutes East:--
+Eremophila Latrobei. Dodonaea petiolaris.
+
+CAMP 62.
+Latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes 10 seconds South; longitude 124 degrees 46
+minutes East:--
+Crotalaria Cunninghami. Indigofera brevidens. Sida petrophila. Acacia
+salicina. Dodonaea petriolaris. Condonocarpus cotinifolius. Cassia
+Sturtii. Cassia artemisioides. Kochia Brownii. Eremophila longifolia.
+Loranthus Exocarpi.
+
+CAMP 70.
+Latitude 25 degrees 54 minutes 53 seconds South; longitude 126 degrees 48
+minutes East:--
+Hakea lorea. Cassia desolata. Eremophila longifolia. Abutilon Fraseri.
+Acacia salicina. Cassia platypoda. Ficus platypoda (the native fig).
+
+CAMP 71.
+Latitude 26 degrees 1 minute South; longitude 127 degrees 7 minutes East.
+Crotolaria Cunninghami. Indigofera brevidens. Cassia Eremophila.
+Trichodesma Zeilanicum. Cassia artemisioides.
+
+CAMP 72.
+Latitude 26 degrees 2 minutes South; longitude 127 degrees 22 minutes
+East.
+Abutilon Fraseri. Trichodesma Zeilanicum. Acacia salicina.
+
+
+CAMP 78.
+Latitude 26 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds South; longitude 122 degrees 9
+minutes East:--
+Gossypium Sturtii. Hibiscus Farragei. Pterocaulon Sphacelatus. Salsola
+Kali. Condonocarpus cotinifolius. Heliotropium undulatum. Scaevola
+spiniscens. Stylobasium spatulatum. Adriana tomentosa. Tecoma Australis.
+Ficus platypoda. Trichodesma Zeilanicum. Sida virgata. Dodonaea viscosa.
+Helichrysum apiculatum. Jasminum lineare. Adriana tomentosa. Indigofera
+Australis. Petalostylis labicheoides. Scaevola Aemula. Pterocaulon
+Sphacelatus. Santalum Preissianum. Festuca (Triodia) irritans.
+
+The Santalum Preissianum, the so-called native peach, with edible fruit,
+is found generally on the whole route.
+
+The Spinifex so often mentioned is the Festuca (Triodia) irritans, the
+Spinifex of the Desert Explorers, but not of Science.
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 46 minutes South; longitude 118 degrees East:--
+Marsdenia Leichardti, the climber with edible pods and milky sap, the
+seeds with a downy top, called by the natives Carcular.
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 4 minutes South; longitude 129 degrees 50 minutes
+East:--
+The Casuarina Decaisneana, the Shea-oak or Desert Oak peculiar to Central
+Australia.
+
+
+APPENDIX 2.
+
+REPORT FROM R. BROUGH SMYTH, ESQUIRE,
+
+SECRETARY FOR MINES OF VICTORIA,
+
+ON THE GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS COLLECTED ON THE EXPEDITION.
+
+COLUMN 1: POSITION OF LOCALITY WHERE THE SPECIMEN WAS COLLECTED.
+COLUMN 2: REMARKS BY MR. JOHN FORREST ON THE SPECIMENS FORWARDED.
+COLUMN 3: MR. R. BROUGH SMYTH'S REPORT ON SPECIMENS.
+
+Latitude 26 degrees South, Longitude 117 degrees 20 minutes East : Taken
+from Mount Hale on the Murchison River. This formation extends to
+longitude 120 degrees East, and is very magnetic, also very heavy. There
+must be a great deal of iron in it. The hills are very high, and the echo
+very remarkable. I have seen the same kinds of hills in latitude 29
+degrees, longitude 120 degrees. Bare granite rocks sometimes in the
+vicinity, though not attached. (May 4th.) : Two small specimens of
+Micaceous Iron-ore with brown Haematite. Impossible to state the age.
+Similar ore occurs in Victoria, in Elvans in Porphyry, but it also occurs
+in Tertiary rocks.
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 17 minutes South, Longitude 119 degrees 54 minutes
+East : The water shed of the Murchison, after crossing which we entered
+the Triodia desert. Found oozing out of rock in the water-shed of the
+Murchison. : Brown Haematite, decomposing to yellow. (Tertiary.)
+Bituminous material. Mr. Cosmo Newbery reports that it is probably the
+result of the decomposition of the excrement of bats. It contains
+fragments of the wing cases of insects, and gives reactions similar to
+the bituminous mineral or substance found in Victoria.
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 121 degrees East : Peaks
+rising out of sandy Triodia desert. (May 29th.) : 5, Quartz; 6,
+Chalcedony; 7, Quartz; 8, Silky Shale (Silurian); 9, very Micaceous
+Schist (Silurian).
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 40 minutes South, Longitude 120 degrees 35 minutes
+East : Found in the Frere Ranges. : 10, Ferruginous rock (Tertiary); 11,
+portion of a seam or joint of a rock; 12, very fine soft purple slightly
+micaceous rock (Silurian); 13, white micaceous slaty sandstone
+(Silurian).
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 120 degrees 40 minutes
+East : This rock was broken off the face of the side of a bank of brook.
+It is rather soft, and would split; it is all in layers. I cut my
+initials in it with a chisel. : Purple brown slate (Silurian).
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 40 minutes South, Longitude 122 degrees 20 minutes
+East, Mount Moore : Many ranges and some grassy country running from
+longitude 122 to longitude 124 degrees, generally composed of this
+description of rock. : 15, Rough quartzite (conglomeritic) Tertiary; 16,
+rough quartzite with white band, brown and purple (Tertiary).
+
+Latitude 25 degrees 32 minutes South, Longitude 124 degrees 17 minutes
+East : Taken from rough range rising out of gently undulating desert.
+(July 5th.) : White flinty rock; consists in the main of Silica, with
+Magnesia and Alumina; it also contains water and traces of the Alkalies.
+It is probably derived from the decomposition of granite. The "rough
+ranges" are perhaps granitic.
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 124 degrees 46 minutes
+East : From a low table hill (Alexander Spring). : Translucent greenish
+quartz. Impossible to state the probable age.
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 2 minutes South, Longitude 125 degrees 27 minutes
+East : This sandstone is the usual rock found in all the country from
+longitude 122 degrees to 126 degrees 30 minutes. In it are receptacles
+for water, and all the rising ground is composed of it. Very often one
+side of the rise forms a cliff. Where this is taken from there is a long
+line of cliffs with many creeks running from them, and low cliff-hills
+all about. : Light red sandstone (desert sandstone, Tertiary).
+
+Latitude 26 degrees South, Longitude 126 degrees 30 minutes East : From
+the farthest ranges westward from telegraph line; good grassy country in
+flats. The dark piece from a salt gully. (August 8th.) : 20, Silico
+felspathic rock impregnated with Micaceous iron (probably from a dyke);
+21, 22, green schist (Silurian).
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude 128 degrees East : In the
+Cavanagh Ranges. Many ranges. (August 17th.) : Greenstone (Diabase ?).
+
+Latitude 26 degrees 18 minutes South, Longitude 129 degrees 9 minutes
+East : Tomkinson Ranges. Many ranges running East and West, and grassy
+flats between them. (August 26th.) Mount Jane. : Aphanite.
+
+
+NOTE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+The publication of the preceding Journal affords an appropriate occasion
+for inviting attention to the remarkable progress of Western Australia
+within the last few years. Mr. John Forrest is proud to acknowledge
+himself as belonging to that colony--indeed native-born--and his
+fellow-colonists have invariably supported and encouraged his
+explorations. Belonging to the public service, he has recognized as his
+main object the discovery of new and good country with the view of
+extending colonization, while within his ideas of duty there has been a
+steadfast regard for those objects which promote the welfare of young
+settlements. It has long been observed that Western Australia requires to
+be thoroughly understood in its great capacities for carrying a large
+population. There are vast resources yet to be developed, and what has
+been accomplished in sheep and cattle stations, in copper and lead
+mining, in wine-growing, in pearl fisheries, besides other important
+operations, prove that the country has scarcely been tapped, and will be
+sure to reward those who have the enterprise and industry to become
+settlers. It is only necessary to substantiate these statements by
+official documents, and, in the hope that this volume will do good
+service to Western Australia, the following papers are reprinted.
+
+
+GOVERNOR WELD'S REPORT TO THE EARL OF CARNARVON.
+
+Government House, Perth,
+
+September 30, 1874.
+
+MY LORD,
+
+It has appeared to me that your lordship may think it desirable that,
+before I leave, I should, so far as the limits of a despatch may enable
+me to do so, place before you the present state of this colony, review
+the progress it has made within the last five years, and indicate its
+future prospects.
+
+2. When I was appointed to the Government of Western Australia I was
+aware that from various causes the colony had made but little progress;
+and on my arrival in September, 1869, I found chronic despondency and
+discontent, heightened by failure of the wheat crop, by the prospect of
+the gradual reduction of convict expenditure and labour on which the
+settlers had been accustomed to depend, by the refusal of the Home
+Government to continue to send out free immigrants, and by that vague
+dread of being thrown on their own resources so natural to men who have
+been accustomed to take no part in their own affairs, and who have
+consequently learned to rely entirely upon the Government, and not at all
+upon themselves. One healthy symptom there was, and that was a desire,
+not very strong perhaps, or even generally founded upon a just
+appreciation of the past, or political foresight of the future; but still
+a very wide-spread desire, and to many a reasonable and intelligent
+desire, for a form of representative institutions which might give the
+colonists some real voice in the management of their own affairs.
+
+3. At the earliest possible moment I commenced work by travelling over as
+much as possible of the settled and partially settled districts of the
+colony; an old colonist bushman and explorer myself, travelling on
+horseback and camping out were but natural to me, and I wished to judge
+for myself of the capabilities of the colony; and before I had been six
+months in the country I had ridden considerably over two thousand miles,
+some part of the distance unfortunately, owing to an accident, with a
+fractured rib and other injuries. I had made acquaintance with settlers
+of all classes, and was able to form an opinion so accurate, both of the
+people and of the country I have since had to deal with, and of their
+capabilities, that I have never altered that opinion, nor have my many
+subsequent journeys done more than supplement the knowledge I then
+gained.
+
+4. My first political aim was to promote local self-government in local
+affairs by establishing or giving real power to road boards and
+municipalities (a policy I afterwards carried into effect with school
+boards also); and, so soon as I had obtained the sanction of her
+Majesty's Government, I introduced that modified form of representative
+institutions provided by 13 and 14 Vic., chap. 59, and then passed the
+Municipal Acts I have mentioned above. This policy has fulfilled not only
+my expectations but my hopes, and should the Council that is about to
+meet wish to take the ultimate step of entering into complete
+self-government by adopting the responsible system, the preparation
+afforded by the last five years will admittedly be of the greatest value.
+
+5. It fell to me to carry into effect the ecclesiastical policy indicated
+by Lord Granville in a despatch, Number 80, of July 10, 1869, held over
+for my arrival, in which his lordship suggested that grants (regard being
+had to the number in the community of each denomination) should be equal
+in substance and alike in form, and asked if there were any difficulties
+in applying to Western Australia "that principle of religious equality
+which had long been recognized in the Australian Colonies." Lord
+Kimberley, in an enclosure to his despatch, Number 78, of December 19,
+1870, expressed similar views. To this on March 1, 1871, in my despatch,
+Number 37, I was enabled to reply that I had already carried the policy
+recommended into practice, that the grants had been equalized by
+"levelling up," that the vote for the Church of England was "now handed
+over to the Bishop of Perth, the Government reserving the right to
+satisfy itself that it is applied to those purposes of religious
+ministration and instruction for which it is voted, and that all vested
+interests are maintained intact and claims on the Government respected."
+Since then I have supported such measures as were thought desirable to
+promote self-organization, and I have moreover made liberal grants of
+land for glebes, churches, schools, and institutions to the various
+religious bodies in proportion to their numbers. I have reason to know
+that on all sides satisfaction is felt at the position in which I shall
+leave ecclesiastical affairs so far as the action of Government may
+effect them.
+
+6. The elementary educational question, on my arrival, was a source of
+much contention and ill-feeling, which came prominently into play, when
+in the second session of 1871 I caused a Bill, drafted by myself, and the
+general provisions of which I was subsequently informed were "entirely
+approved of" by your lordship's predecessor, to be introduced into the
+Legislature, and carried it--not, however, quite in its original form.
+Though the alterations are unquestionably defects, and may somewhat mar
+its success, it has hitherto worked very well, and has proved itself not
+only effective but economical: it has received praise from its former
+opponents and from the most opposite quarters, and old bitternesses are
+now (I hope for ever) things of the past.
+
+7. I have not failed to give the utmost support in my power--a support
+unfortunately much needed in a colony like this--to the Chief Justice,
+and it has been a great gratification to me that, on my recommendation,
+the long and valuable services of Sir Archibald Paull Burt have been
+recognized by her Majesty, and that he has received the honour of
+knighthood--a rank which none of her Majesty's servants will more fitly
+adorn. I have suggested to the Legislature that a small increase of
+salary should be given to uphold the dignity of the Supreme Court; and
+the question, to which I have already drawn the attention of the
+Legislature, of the appointment of two Puisne Judges and constitution of
+a Court of Appeal ought to be taken into consideration at no distant
+period. One new resident magistracy has been established in a district
+where it was very much needed, and two Local Courts have been
+constituted. There is some difficulty in finding a sufficiency of fit
+persons for the commission of the peace who are willing to exert
+themselves, and the pay of the resident magistrates is in too many cases
+insufficient to enable them properly to support their position as
+representatives of the Government in their districts.
+
+8. In the Military Department I have enabled successive commandments to
+make reductions in the enrolled Pensioner Force. By withdrawing the guard
+from Rottnest Island, and by concurring in the reductions at
+out-stations, a very considerable saving has thus been effected. I have
+given all the encouragement in my power to the Volunteer movement, and I
+may confidently state that the Volunteer Force was never before in so
+good a state, either so far as regards numbers or efficiency. To this
+result the efforts of successive commandants and liberality of the
+Legislature have mainly contributed.
+
+9. It has been for me to preside over the latter stages of the existence
+of the Imperial convict establishment in Western Australia, as a large
+and important department; henceforth it will be confined in narrow
+limits, and I may state with confidence that the great reductions and
+concentrations that it has been my duty to effect have not been attended
+with those disastrous effects to the colony that were so confidently
+predicted, and also that although the residue of convicts are, many of
+them, men of the doubly reconvicted class and long-sentence men,
+discipline is well kept, serious prison offences are rare, the health of
+the men is excellent, whilst severe punishments are seldom needful. I
+here beg leave to make favourable mention of Mr. W.R. Fauntleroy, Acting
+Comptroller-General of Convicts, who has proved himself to be my most
+valuable officer.
+
+10. Much remains to be done in the Survey and Lands Department. When Mr.
+Fraser in December, 1870, took charge of the department, the greatest
+economy was needed to make the revenue of the colony meet the
+expenditure, and consequently it was necessary to reduce and lay upon our
+oars; Mr. Fraser reorganized his department, putting it on a new system,
+letting out work by contract instead of keeping up a large permanent
+staff, and thereby effected a considerable annual saving; at the same
+time he has been steadily working, as time and means have permitted,
+towards certain definite objects, namely, in the direction of a
+trigonometrical survey, by fixing points, by making sketch and
+reconnaissance surveys of new and important districts, and by accurately
+fixing by survey main lines of road: this will give a connexion to the
+records in the Survey Office which has been hitherto wanting, and will
+contribute to enable him to construct that great desideratum--a large and
+accurate map of Western Australia, so far as it is settled or partially
+settled. I concur with Mr. Fraser in thinking that, so soon as means will
+admit, a considerably increased annual expenditure should be devoted to
+surveys.
+
+11. The joint survey of the coast will also aid in this work. The
+Admiralty, in assenting to my proposal to undertake a joint coast survey,
+which has been placed under a highly meritorious officer, Navigating
+Lieutenant Archdeacon, R.N., have conferred a great benefit on this
+colony, and promoted the interests of British commerce and navigation,
+much valuable work having already been done.
+
+12. In close connexion with the Survey and Lands Department is the topic
+of exploration. So soon as possible after my first arrival, I took upon
+myself to send Mr. John Forrest overland to Adelaide, along the shores of
+the Great Bight, nearly on the line of Mr. Eyre's route in 1841. I did
+this before the introduction of representative government, and it is
+right to say that I knew that I could not have got a vote for it. I felt
+that this was the last act of an expiring autocratic regime, and I
+believe it was one of the least popular of my acts; but certainly no
+small sum of public money has been expended with greater results--for, as
+I hoped, Mr. Forrest's expedition has bridged the gap that separated West
+Australia from the other colonies, has led to settlement on the shores of
+the Great Bight, and to the connexion of this colony with the rest of the
+world by electric telegraph. I never doubted of the future of West
+Australia from the day when the news of Mr. Forrest's success reached
+Perth. Since then more interest has been taken in exploration. A second
+expedition was sent out to the eastward under Mr. Alexander Forrest in
+1871, with the support of the Legislature and some of the settlers, and
+at present under the same auspices Mr. John Forrest is again exploring to
+the northward and eastward. His route will be guided by circumstances,
+but it is not improbable that he may aim for the Central Australian
+telegraph line, and I am already anxiously expecting tidings of him.
+
+13. In 1870, with a vote I obtained from the Council, I engaged Mr. Henry
+Y. Brown as Government Geologist. His geological sketch map and his
+researches, which he pushed in one instance far into the interior, have
+been of the greatest value; and it was with much regret that in 1872,
+owing to the disinclination evinced in the Legislature in the then
+straitened circumstances of the colony to expend money on a scientific
+department, that I was obliged to forego my desire of making it a
+permanent part of the establishment.
+
+14. As Colonel Warburton's journey from the Central South Australian
+telegraph line to our north-west coast was set on foot and its expenses
+defrayed by private colonists of South Australia, I only allude to it to
+acknowledge the obligation that this colony lies under to those
+public-spirited gentlemen and to the gallant leader and his followers.
+Parties headed by Mr. Gosse, by Mr. Giles, and by Mr. Ross have all
+within the last two years penetrated from the eastern colonies to within
+the boundary of our unexplored territory, but, beyond a certain extension
+of geographical knowledge, without effecting any material results.
+
+15. Under the head of Survey and Lands Department, it will be proper to
+glance at the alterations in the Land and Mineral Regulations, which have
+offered increased inducements and facilities for cultivation and
+occupation, and which have considerably promoted mining enterprise. Gold
+Mining Regulations have been also prepared and are ready for issue,
+should occasion, as is likely, render them requisite. I willingly
+acknowledge the assistance I have received from Mr. M. Fraser, the
+Surveyor-General and Commissioner of Crown Lands, who has had much
+experience in New Zealand, for the services he has rendered in all these
+matters.
+
+16. The mineral riches of this colony are very great. I have never
+doubted but that they would ultimately become a main source of its
+advancement. All the different kinds of auriferous quartz known in other
+colonies are found abundantly in various parts of this--the question of
+payable gold is, as I have long since reported, simply a question of
+time. After many efforts, I at last, in 1873, obtained a vote for
+prospecting, and the results are most promising, the fact of the
+existence of rich auriferous quartz being now established. We shall
+immediately be in a position to crush specimen consignments of quartz by
+a Government steam-crusher, and I doubt not but that, if followed up, the
+results will be most important. But gold is not the only nor perhaps the
+most important of the minerals possessed by West Australia. The colony is
+extraordinarily rich in lead, silver, copper, iron, plumbago, and many
+other minerals are found in various localities, and indications of coal
+and petroleum are not wanting--what IS wanting, is energy and enterprise
+to develop these riches, and that energy and enterprise is being
+attracted chiefly from Victoria, first by means of concessions that I was
+enabled to make, and now by the reports of the new comers to their
+friends. I made a small concession to a smelting company: and another,
+and also an iron mining company, is in the field.
+
+17. When on my arrival I turned around me to see what was to be looked
+for to supply the place of Imperial expenditure, only second to our
+minerals, our forests attracted my attention. They could not fail to do
+so, because just before I came there was an outcry for the development of
+this industry by Government aid. With Lord Granville's assent I made
+liberal concessions, and thereby induced a pioneer company, shortly
+followed by others from Victoria, to embark capital in the enterprise.
+The public ardour here had, however, cooled, and an ignorant cry was
+raised against foreigners, and the prospects of the trade were
+systematically decried. Several causes besides this militated against it,
+but it is surmounting them, and at the present moment not only are the
+companies largely employing labour and expending money, but their own
+success is becoming an established fact, and the export is enormously
+increasing, and with good management must continue to increase
+indefinitely. Whilst on this subject I may allude to the question of the
+preservation of our forests, but as I am treating it more fully in a
+separate despatch I will only say that this and the kindred question of
+planting ought, at no distant period, to occupy the attention of our
+Legislature.
+
+18. The pearl shell and pearl fishery may be said to have sprung into
+existence within the last few years. It employs a fleet of cutters and
+schooners, chiefly of small size, on the north-west coast, Port Cossack
+being the head-quarters. At Sharks Bay also there are a number of smaller
+boats. A licence fee on boats and a tax on shells has been imposed by the
+Legislature; laws for the protection of aboriginal divers and Malays have
+been enacted. I shall immediately have a Government cutter on the
+north-west coast for police and customs purposes, which will also be
+useful in cases of shipwreck amongst the islands and inlets, and in
+searching for and reporting the position of reefs, of anchorages, and of
+new banks of pearl oysters. It will probably hereafter become advisable
+to let areas for pearling under certain regulations as in Ceylon, but
+this could not well be done with our present means and knowledge.
+
+19. To turn now to the more settled industries, first in importance is
+that of agriculture. It is chiefly in the hands of men of little capital,
+and is carried on in a very slovenly way by the greater part of them. Bad
+seasons, an over-great reliance on cereals, which have for several
+successive years been seriously affected by the red rust, and a neglect
+of other products suitable to the soil and climate, added in too many
+cases to careless and intemperate habits, have until lately rendered the
+position of many of the small farmers a very precarious one. Last year,
+however, was more favourable, and they to a great extent recovered
+themselves. The lesson of the past has not been altogether lost; they
+have also been much assisted by the new Land Regulations, and a few
+prosperous seasons will, I sincerely trust, put this class, which ought
+to be a mainstay of the colony, into a really prosperous condition.
+
+20. The cultivation of the vine is a profitable pursuit, and the quantity
+of land fitted for that purpose is very great; both soil and climate are
+eminently favourable to the growth of the grape. Recent legislation has
+given some encouragement to wine-growers by facilitating the sale of
+home-grown pure wine. The quantity of land laid down in vineyards is
+slightly increased, but the class of settlers that are most numerous in
+Western Australia do not readily take to industries that are new to them,
+however profitable they may be, nor can they afford to wait for returns,
+nor have many of them the knowledge necessary to make good wine: still
+this industry will become one of the most important in the colony.
+
+21. The pastoral interest is the pioneer interest of a new colony.
+Western Australia has been somewhat less favoured than some other parts
+of Australia in its pastoral lands, but it has, nevertheless, a good deal
+of very good pastoral country, and under the extremely liberal
+concessions lately offered to those who will devote capital to the
+eradication of poison plants much more may be made available, whilst
+fresh country is being largely occupied inland.
+
+The progress, however, of the pastoral interest, considering the age of
+the colony, though latterly great, is not SO great as might have been
+expected; the comparatively good prices obtainable and anticipated for
+meat have kept down the increase of stock, and consequently the yield of
+wool; and as yet very little or nothing has been done to supplement
+natural resources by growing artificial grasses and fodder plants. No
+country presents greater capabilities for horse breeding, and cattle do
+exceeding well and are very profitable.
+
+22. The sandal-wood trade is in a flourishing condition, and has brought
+money into the colony, and enabled many of the poorer classes to obtain a
+livelihood by cutting that aromatic wood for export. It is, however,
+doubted by some whether the labour employed in this trade does not
+withdraw many from more steady and permanently useful labour on their
+farms and small holdings.
+
+23. In the matter of minor industries, sericulture holds a first rank. I
+look to it in the future as a source of employment for paupers on the
+hands of the Government, and also for women and children. I have taken
+much interest in this pursuit, and have caused a mulberry plantation to
+be made and plants distributed, and have published much information on
+the subject. The Report of the Chamber of Commerce of Como (Italy),
+alluded to in my despatch, Number 61, of 20th May, 1873, conclusively
+shows that this colony is remarkably well adapted for the cultivation of
+silk. The cultivation of the olive and the castor-oil plant are
+industries for which this soil and climate are extraordinarily well
+adapted. Tobacco, hops, and dried and preserved fruits might largely add
+to the riches of the colony. In great part at my own expense, I have
+introduced and distributed hop plants and various kinds of fruits of
+great utility, and have, in fact, in the absence of any botanic garden
+(in which I have vainly endeavoured to get the settlers to take an active
+interest), made my own garden a kind of nursery for acclimatization and
+distribution of useful and ornamental plants, and I have also given a
+small concession for the cultivation of the cocoa-nut on the north-west
+coast, where, in the absence of vegetables, it would be invaluable. And,
+thanks to the Government of the Mauritius, I have been able to introduce
+various kinds of sugar-cane, for which part of this territory is well
+adapted. The growth of coffee has been also attempted on a Government
+plantation, but without success. Cotton had already been proved to thrive
+admirably, and to be excellent in quality, but is not considered likely
+to pay without cheap labour. I may here note that, with an eye to the
+future, I have made reserves for the purposes of public parks and
+recreation grounds in several places.
+
+Deer, Angora goats, hares, and trout have been also introduced.
+
+24. I will now proceed to another branch of my subject--public works and
+undertakings; and first in the category of public works and undertakings
+I put those which relate to communications, and under that subdivision
+immeasurably the most important are such means of communication as, by
+terminating the isolation which has been the great bar to the advancement
+of this colony, may make it a living part of the system of life and
+progress which has been growing and prospering around it.
+
+On this end was my mind set when I was appointed to the Governorship, to
+this end have I worked steadily ever since, and this end is partially
+accomplished, and its complete fulfilment is not distant.
+
+The vote for the construction of the telegraph line via Eucla to South
+Australia, passed last session, and the proposal of Messrs. Siemens
+Brothers regarding a submarine cable to Madras, fitly close an
+administration which found Western Australia within twelve miles, and has
+already placed her in possession of a complete telegraphic system,
+consisting of about nine hundred miles of wire, worked at a remarkably
+small cost, in efficient order, already remunerative, and affording the
+greatest advantages both to the public service and to private business.
+It is noteworthy that four or five years ago there was a strong feeling
+that the construction of telegraph lines was a waste of public money, and
+only a few months ago a prominent member of the Legislature publicly
+objected to the line which is to connect this colony with the rest of the
+world, that it would only benefit a few individuals! Such ideas, however,
+are rapidly becoming obsolete even in Western Australia.
+
+I will here note that, under a power given me by law to fix and alter
+rates, I, in January, 1873, reduced the charges to a uniform rate of one
+shilling per ten words, and one penny for each additional word (press
+messages at quarter price), and was the first to do so in the Australian
+colonies.
+
+25. After much and persistent opposition, the Legislature was at length
+induced to vote a subsidy for steam on the coast, connecting our western
+ports and all this part of the colony with Albany, King George's Sound,
+the port of call of the Royal mail steamers from Europe and the eastern
+colonies. This has done much to throw open this colony, rendering access
+to it no longer difficult and uncertain, and greatly facilitating
+intercommunication. A very Chinese objection to steam communication has
+been publicly made by the same gentleman to whose opinion on telegraphic
+communication I have already alluded; namely, that it enabled people to
+LEAVE the colony. I am, on the contrary, of opinion that it is certainly
+conducing to progress and the promotion of commerce.
+
+The steamer we have at present is, however, insufficient, but I doubt not
+but that a second and more powerful boat will shortly be procured, as it
+is already required: I understand, however, that no West Australian
+capital is as yet forthcoming for the purpose, nor for steam
+communication with India, than which nothing could be more important, as
+it would render available the magnificent geographical position of the
+colony, and open a market close at hand for its products. I have long ago
+and frequently stated my willingness to give all possible Government
+support to such an undertaking.
+
+26. I am immediately about, by invitation, to proceed to Champion Bay,
+and to cut the first sod of the first West Australian railway, on the
+Geraldton and Northampton line. I have already fully indicated the
+advantage that there is good reason to anticipate will result from the
+opening of that line, which will, I do not hesitate to say, be the parent
+of future and greater undertakings.
+
+When the colony arrives at a position safely to borrow a million or a
+million and a quarter, a railway from Fremantle and Perth, probably up
+the Helena valley, into the York district, and thence down the country
+eastward of the present Sound road, to the fine harbour of King George's
+Sound, would do more than anything else to give an outlet to the
+resources of the country and supply its wants; such a line would
+ultimately be extended through the eastern districts and Victoria plains
+northward to the Irwin, Greenough, and Geraldton.
+
+But I will recall myself from these and other speculations of the yet
+more distant future, and look back upon the modest past. Two tramways
+with locomotives now bring timber to the coast from the Jarrah forests,
+and there are also two other tramways for the same purpose, of less
+extent, but still of some importance. I have made concessions to the
+companies constructing them.
+
+27. With regard to ordinary roads, I can very confidently say that,
+considering the extent of the country and its scattered population, no
+colony that I have ever seen is in a better position regarding roads.
+Occasionally, owing to the loss of convict labour, the scarcity of free
+labour, the disinclination of the people to tax themselves locally, and
+the great extent of the roads themselves, parts of the roads already made
+fall out of repair whilst other parts are being formed; but on the whole,
+having perhaps traversed more of Western Australia than any one man in
+the colony, I very confidently assert that, taking all in all throughout
+the country, the roads are in a better condition than they have ever been
+before. Large bridges have been constructed over the Upper Swan, Moore
+River, Blackwood, Capel, and Preston, besides twelve smaller bridges, and
+a large one completed at the Upper Canning.
+
+28. Bushing the Geraldton sand-hills has been a very useful and
+successful work; the experiment was first tried by Lieutenant-Colonel
+Bruce. Part of the work has been done by convict labour, and part by
+farmers and settlers in payment for a loan advanced to them for
+seed-wheat before my arrival. It is not too much to say that this work
+has saved the town of Geraldton and its harbour from destruction by sand.
+
+29. A little has been done in the way of improving the Swan River
+navigation by means of a dredge imported by Governor Hampton, and worked
+by prison labour and by an appropriation in the Loan Act of 1872. A work
+has also been constructed, from funds provided out of the same loan, at
+Mandurah, by which the entrance to the Murray River has been improved.
+
+30. Harbour improvements have occupied much of the attention of
+Government. A fine and substantial open-piled jetty at Fremantle, seven
+hundred and fifty feet long, has been constructed, and answers all the
+purposes for which it was designed; but the larger and extremely
+difficult question of the construction of a really safe harbour at or
+near Fremantle is yet undecided. Various plans have been proposed, and
+great pressure has been put on the Government to commence works hastily
+and without engineering advice. At one time one scheme has found favour,
+and another at another, and the merits of the rival schemes of our
+amateurs have been popularly judged upon the principle of opposing most
+strongly anything that was supposed to find favour with the Government.
+Last session a strong wish to do SOMETHING caused the Legislature to
+advocate a scheme which many persons think would cause the mouth of the
+River Swan to silt up, and expose the town of Fremantle to danger, lest
+the river in flood should burst out (as no doubt it did formerly) into
+the South Bay over the town site. The question, however, is referred to
+the Victorian Government engineer, and the Melbourne Government have been
+asked to allow him to visit this colony, but I fear that the people will
+not accept his decision; and unless the members of the new Legislature
+will agree to do so, or, in the event of his not coming, do what I have
+long since recommended, namely, ask your Lordship to refer the whole
+question to the decision of Sir John Coode, or some other great
+authority, and undertake beforehand to abide by it, I see no chance of
+anything being carried into effect until the warmth and personal feeling
+which, strangely enough, is always evoked by this question, shall be
+succeeded by a more reasonable and business-like mood. One of my first
+acts on reaching this colony was, in accordance with the previously
+expressed wish of the Council and colonists, to send for an engineer of
+high repute to report. His report only raised a tempest of objurgations,
+and I must frankly confess failure in my efforts to leave Fremantle with
+a harbour; and, indeed, I am far from being convinced that anything under
+an enormous outlay will avail to give an anchorage and approaches, safe
+in all weathers, for large ships, though I, with the Melbourne engineers,
+think that the plan of cutting a ship channel into Freshwater Bay, in the
+Swan River, advocated by the Reverend Charles Grenfel Nicholay, is worthy
+of consideration. Jetties at Albany, King George's Sound, the Vasse,
+Bunbury, and Geraldton, have been lengthened, one at Dongarra
+constructed, and money has been voted for the construction of one at Port
+Cossack. Moorings have been procured from England, and are being laid
+down at Fremantle and other ports.
+
+31. With respect to public buildings, the Perth Town Hall--a very large
+and conspicuous building, commenced by Governor Hampton--was completed
+not long after my arrival, and handed over by me to the City Council and
+Municipality on June 1, 1870; attached to it I caused the Legislative
+Chamber to be built, and so arranged that at no great cost this colony
+possesses a council-room more convenient and in better taste than many I
+have seen of far greater pretensions. It is, however, proposed hereafter
+to build legislative chambers in the new block of Government buildings,
+of which the Registration Offices now about to be commenced will form a
+wing, for which the contract is 2,502 pounds. The public offices at
+Albany were finished shortly after my arrival. I may mention, among a
+number of less important buildings, the harbour-master's house, Albany;
+school-houses there and in various other places; large addition to
+Government Boys' School, Fremantle; court-house and police-station, and
+post and telegraphic offices at Greenough and at Dongarra;
+police-station, Gingin; addition to court-house, York; post and
+telegraphic offices at Guildford, York; and Northam Bonded Store,
+Government offices, and police-station, Roebourne. Considerable additions
+have been made, which add to the convenience and capabilities of the
+Fremantle Lunatic Asylum, and alterations and adaptations and additions
+have been made to several other buildings; for instance, at Albany a
+resident magistrate's house and also a convenient prison have been formed
+at no great outlay. At Perth a building has been erected to which I call
+attention, the Government printing-house; this new department has been of
+immense service during the four years in which it has been in
+existence--in fact, it would have been impossible to have gone on without
+it; and the Government printing work is most creditably done at a very
+reasonable cost. A handsome stone sea-wall has been commenced by convict
+labour at the new jetty at Fremantle, which will reclaim much valuable
+land, and greatly improve the appearance of the place. Harbour lights
+have been erected at several places. A large lighthouse is in the course
+of erection at Point Moore, at Geraldton, which will be of much
+importance; and it is proposed, with the co-operation of other colonies,
+to erect one near Cape Leeuwin, as recommended at an
+intercolonial conference on that subject.
+
+32. Postal facilities have been increased, several new offices opened,
+and postages (under powers vested in me by law) considerably reduced, on
+both letters to the colonies and newspapers, from the tariff I found in
+force. In this a step in advance of some of our neighbours was taken.
+
+33. I have reduced several police-stations on the recommendation of
+Captain Smith, the superintendent, which appeared to be no longer
+necessary; but, on the other hand, I have extended police protection into
+outlying districts, both for the benefit of European settlers and of the
+aboriginal inhabitants. These latter have gained little and lost much by
+the occupation of their country by settlement. I have fought their battle
+against cruel wrong and oppression, holding, I trust, the hand of justice
+with an even balance, and I rejoice to say not without effect and benefit
+to both races. Their services as stockmen, shepherds, and pearlers are
+invaluable; and when they die out, as shortly no doubt they will, their
+disappearance will be universally acknowledged as a great loss to the
+colonists.
+
+34. The Legislature, I am happy to say, have latterly seconded my efforts
+by encouraging industrial institutions for their benefit. Similarly they
+have in the last session turned their attention to the condition of the
+destitute and criminal children of our own race; and, in my own sphere, I
+have done what was possible for the encouragement of the (denominational)
+orphanages which have been long established and are in full working
+order. This colony is, for its size and means, well supplied with
+hospitals, asylums, and establishments for paupers, in which I have taken
+great personal interest.
+
+35. In legislation I have endeavoured to avoid over-legislation and
+premature legislation. I have considered that free-trade principles are
+especially in place in a colony situated as this is. The ad valorem duty,
+and that on wines, spirits, and a few other articles, has been raised for
+revenue purposes; some others have been put on the free list. I
+successfully resisted the imposition of a duty on flour; I should have
+simplified the tariff still further than I have done, and admitted free
+many more articles--some of food, others used in our industries--had the
+Legislature not objected; the tariff as it stands is inconsistent. The
+English bankruptcy system has been introduced, and an Act passed
+regarding fraudulent debtors; distillation has been permitted under
+proper safeguards; Sunday closing of public-houses has been rendered
+compulsory with good effect; a Lunacy Bill on the English model has
+become law; the Torrens Land Registration system has been adopted, and
+will shortly be put into force. Many equally important measures are
+alluded to in their places in the pages of this despatch, and I will not
+inflict upon your lordship a list of many minor Acts, some not
+unimportant, which have proved beneficial in their degree.
+
+36. Among lesser but not unimportant matters, I may mention that I have
+extended the system of taking security from Government officers in
+receipt of public moneys.
+
+The commencement of a law and parliamentary library has been made.
+
+37. Immigration from England has, on a small scale, been set on foot
+lately, and families are now expected from neighbouring colonies, but our
+population from obvious causes has increased but slightly during the last
+five years; on my arrival it was said to be actually decreasing, and
+there were many reasons why such an opinion was not
+unreasonable--reduction of the convict establishment threw some out of
+employment, expirees also desired to quit a country which to them had
+been a land of bondage, and the prospects of the country were gloomy; now
+there is a great want of labour, any that comes is at once absorbed, and
+every effort should be made to attract a constant stream of immigrants.
+
+38. It will be observed that when the whole authorized loan is raised,
+the colony will be only in debt to the extent of a little over one year's
+income, or 5 pounds 16 shillings 5 1/4 pence a head, whilst Victoria is
+indebted 15 pounds 14 shillings 10 3/4 pence, New South Wales 19 pounds 7
+shillings, South Australia 10 pounds 19 shillings 5 pence, Queensland 32
+pounds 12 shillings 7 3/4 pence, Tasmania 14 pounds 3 shillings 6 3/4
+pence, New Zealand 40 pounds 5 shillings 11 pence. I beg also to call
+your lordship's attention to the fact that Western Australia has only yet
+spent the 35,000 pound loan, and has now only begun to spend that of
+100,000 pounds. I also would point out that the last annual increase of
+revenue has about equalled the whole capital amount which has been
+expended out of loans.
+
+39. I have caused the following statistics to be furnished me from the
+Treasury and Customs Departments for six years, ending on the 30th
+September of each year. The first year given, that ending on the 30th
+September, 1869, is the year immediately preceding my arrival, I having
+been sworn in on that very day.
+
+TREASURY AND CUSTOMS DEPARTMENTS STATISTICS FOR SIX YEARS TO 1874 IN
+POUNDS/SHILLINGS/PENCE.
+
+COLUMN 1: CATEGORY.
+COLUMN 2: 1869.
+COLUMN 3: 1870.
+COLUMN 4: 1871.
+COLUMN 5: 1872.
+COLUMN 6: 1873.
+COLUMN 7: 1874.
+
+*Imports : 232,830/0/11 : 232,590/18/8 : 201,070/3/4 : 224,396/10/0 :
+253,680/16/2 : 367,417/15/0.
+
+**Exports : 178,860/15/2 : 204,447/2/2 : 194,934/9/3 : 228,807/12/9 :
+278,502/16/0 : 398,900/8/6.
+
+***Customs duties : 48,157/8/9 : 45,270/14/6 : 43,464/2/3 : 53,556/4/5 :
+60,022/1/1 : 82,016/12/0.
+
+****Revenue : 108,600/1/0 : 109,978/6/3 : 102,128/3/4 : 107,828/5/10 :
+120,937/14/8 : 161,443/8/10.
+
+****Expenditure : 107,213/1/10 : 119,478/8/4 : 112,285/10/7 :
+103,205/16/0 : 120,259/11/9 : 131,334/18/5.
+
+OBSERVATIONS.
+
+*Ships now expected will greatly swell the items of Imports and Customs.
+
+**This is exclusive of RE-exported articles, and the valuations are very
+moderate. In round numbers, the Exports may be said to be over 400,000
+pounds.
+
+***Part of the increase of Customs duties is owing to increase of duties
+on spirits, wines, and some other items; and ad valorem, on the other
+hand, credit should be given for some articles which have been admitted
+free. Taking the balance as the amount accruing from increase of duties,
+it may be put at 12,000 pounds on the last year.
+
+****It will be observed that for some time, until better seasons returned
+and measures bore fruit, I had to a slight extent to rely on the surplus
+found in the chest to make Revenue and Expenditure meet. To have starved
+the Expenditure at that time would have been to have damaged the future
+progress of the colony, and the Legislative Council opposed several
+reductions that I thought might have been effected.
+
+On the 30th September, 1874, there was a sum of 36,616 pounds 3 shillings
+5 pence in the chest, and something like this sum will be at the disposal
+of the Legislature at their meeting, beyond current revenue.
+
+40. I need hardly say that the commercial state of the colony is
+admittedly sound, and I am informed in a more prosperous condition than
+at any previous period of its existence. Landed property, especially
+about Perth, has lately risen immensely in value, and the rise is, I
+hope, spreading and will reach the outlying districts. Perth has lost its
+dilapidated appearance, and neat cottages and houses are springing up in
+all directions, and the same progress to some extent is noticeable in
+Fremantle and elsewhere.
+
+41. I will not conclude this Report without recalling the success which
+attended the efforts made by the Government, to which my private
+secretary Mr. Henry Weld Blundell largely contributed, to represent the
+products of Western Australia at the Sydney Exhibition of 1873. Much of
+this success was attributable to the exertions of Mr. F.P. Barlee,
+Colonial Secretary, then representing at Sydney this colony in the
+intercolonial conference.
+
+In that conference, the first to which a representative of this colony
+was admitted, and which therefore marked an epoch in its political
+existence, Mr. F.P. Barlee took a prominent part, ably upheld the trust I
+placed in him, and received a most marked and cordial reception from our
+colonists on his return.
+
+41. I have further to express my obligations to that officer for the
+assistance he has ever given me; were it not for his fearless and loyal
+support, for the confidence which is placed in him by the very great
+majority of the colonists, and for his fidelity in following my
+instructions and carrying out my policy, it would have been impossible
+for me, under a form of government most difficult to work, to have
+carried to a successful issue the trust that has been imposed upon me,
+and to have left this colony prosperous and self-reliant.
+
+42. Should your lordship, considering the position in which I found
+Western Australia--the reduction of imperial expenditure it has been my
+duty to effect, the failure of the wheat crop for four successive seasons
+and consequent depression, the inexperience of a new Legislature, the
+absence of any propositions for the benefit of the colony from the
+opposition, the obstacles thrown at first in the way of all measures
+which have eventuated in good--should you, considering these things and
+the present state of the colony, be of opinion that the administration of
+its affairs during the last five years has not been unsatisfactory or
+unfruitful, I beg that you will award a due share of credit to the
+Colonial Secretary, who, as my mouthpiece in the Legislature, has carried
+on single-handed all parliamentary business, and also to those gentlemen
+who are now, or have at various times been, members of my executive, and
+who have ever united to support me; to the nominated members of the
+Legislature who have steadily voted for all the measures which have led
+to the present progress of the colony, and whose merits the
+constituencies have fully recognized by electing them as representatives
+on vacancies in every case where they have stood; to the elected members,
+who every session have given me increased support, and who, forming
+two-thirds of the Legislature, had it in their power entirely to have
+reversed my policy; and lastly, to the people of Western Australia, who
+on each election have increased my strength, on whose ultimate good
+sense, I--knowing colonists, myself an old colonist--put my reliance, a
+reliance which has not been disappointed.
+
+I have, etc.,
+
+(Signed) FRED. A. WELD,
+
+Governor.
+
+The Earl of Carnarvon,
+
+etc. etc. etc.
+
+...
+
+
+STATISTICS IN POUNDS/SHILLINGS/PENCE.
+
+VALUE OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS FROM 1861 TO 1873.
+
+1861 : 147,912 : 95,789.
+1862 : 172,991 : 119,313.
+1863 : 157,136 : 143,105.
+1864 : 169,856 : 132,738.
+1865 : 168,413 : 178,487.
+1866 : 251,907 : 150,066.
+1867 : 204,613 : 174,080.
+1868 : 225,614 : 192,636.
+1869 : 127,977 : 101,359.
+1870 : 213,258 : 200,984.
+1871 : 198,011 : 199,288.
+1872 : 226,656 : 209,107.
+1873 : 297,328 : 265,217.
+
+VALUE OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS FOR 1874.
+
+COLUMN 1: COUNTRIES.
+COLUMN 2: IMPORTS.
+COLUMN 3: EXPORTS.
+
+United Kingdom : 188,243/10/8 : 268,726/4/0.
+
+British Colonies:
+ Victoria : 75,588/7/0 : 8,038/1/0.
+ South Australia : 44,021/9/2 : 41,004/11/0.
+ New South Wales : 1,236/4/9.
+ New Zealand : 2,065/1/6 : 12,768/6/0.
+ Mauritius : 23,247/7/4 : 3,435/1/0.
+ Singapore : 11,346/19/2 : 53,648/16/0.
+ Ceylon : 1,135/2/0 : 437/0/0.
+ British India : 20/10/0 : 1,345/0/0.
+ All other British Possessions : 20/10/0 : 130/3/7.
+
+Foreign Countries
+ China : 11,461/18/0 : 36,133/17/0.
+ Java : 5,646/2/6 : 2,934/19/6.
+ Timor : 246/14/4.
+ U.S. of America : 3/15/0 : 101/0/0.
+ Macassar : - : 118/0/0.
+ Whaling Ground : - : 16/0/0.
+
+Total : 364,262/15/0 : 428,836/19/1.
+
+REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE FROM 1861 TO 1873.
+
+1861 : 67,261 : 81,087.
+1862 : 69,406 : 72,267.
+1863 : 71,708 : 71,073.
+1864 : 71,910 : 70,714.
+1865 : 77,942 : 74,985.
+1866 : 89,382 : 84,652.
+1867 : 90,430 : 89,501.
+1868 : 99,496 : 89,726.
+1869 : 103,661 : 103,124.
+1870 : 98,131 : 113,046.
+1871 : 97,606 : 107,146.
+1872 : 105,301 : 98,248.
+1873 : 134,832 : 114,270.
+
+REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE FOR 1874.
+
+REVENUE.
+Customs : 82,275/7/3.
+Land Sales : 7,679/2/4.
+Land Revenue : 19,806/0/5.
+Money Orders : 5,888/12/0.
+Telegrams : 1,784/17/8.
+Fines, Forfeitures, and Fees of Court : 2,022/13/3.
+Reimbursements in aid of expenses incurred : 1,482/12/3.
+Special Revenue (North District) : 2,133/12/0.
+Miscellaneous Revenues : 11,152/18/11.
+
+Total Revenue : 134,225/16/1.
+
+EXPENDITURE.
+Civil Establishment : 58,745/9/9.
+Miscellaneous Disbursements : 53,111/8/6.
+Parliamentary Salaries : 3,910/15/8.
+Judicial Establishment : 6,098/18/10.
+Customs Establishment : 2,045/1/3.
+Police Establishment : 12,923/16/2.
+Medical Establishment : 2,377/3/4.
+Postal and Telegraph Department : 4,053/13/3.
+
+Total Expenditure : 143,266/6/8.
+
+
+PUBLIC DEBT : 100,000 pounds.
+
+
+POPULATION OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+1850 : 5,886.
+1853 : 9,334.
+1856 : 13,391.
+1859 : 14,837.
+1862 : 17,246.
+1865 : 20,260.
+1868 : 22,733.
+1871 : 25,724.
+1874 : 26,209.
+
+
+SUCCESSION OF GOVERNORS OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+NAME AND TITLE. APPOINTMENT. RETIREMENT.
+Captain James Stirling, Lieutenant-Governor. June, 1829. September 1832.
+Captain Irwin, Acting Lieutenant-Governor. September 1832. September
+1833.
+Captain Daniell, Acting Lieutenant-Governor. September 1833. May 11,
+1834.
+Captain Beete, Acting Lieutenant-Governor. May 11, 1834. May 24, 1834.
+Sir James Stirling (formerly Captain Stirling), Governor. August 1834.
+December 1838.
+John Hutt, Esquire, Governor. January 1839. December 1845.
+Lieutenant-Colonel Clarke, Governor. February 1846. February 1847.
+Lieutenant-Colonel Irwin (formerly Captain Irwin), Governor. February
+1847. July 1848.
+Captain Charles Fitzgerald, Governor. August 1848. June 1855.
+A.E. Kennedy, Esquire, Governor. June, 1855. February 1862.
+Lieutenant-Colonel John Bruce, Acting Governor. February 17, 1862.
+February 27, 1862.
+J.S. Hampton, Esquire, Governor. February 27, 1862. November 1868.
+Lieutenant-Colonel John Bruce, Acting Governor. November 1868. September
+1869.
+F.A. Weld, Esquire, Governor. September 1869. September 1874.
+W.C.F. Robinson, Esquire, C.M.G. September 1874.
+
+
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE, LONDON.
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Explorations in Australia, by John Forrest
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