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diff --git a/old/8jxpd10h.htm b/old/8jxpd10h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2141e36 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/8jxpd10h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,12900 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia, by Thomas Mitchell</title> +<meta HTTP-EQUIV="content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font:smaller} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font:bold} + a:link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:red} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia, by Thomas Mitchell</h1> + +<pre> +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia + +Author: Thomas Mitchell + +Release Date: February, 2006 [EBook #9943] +[This file was first posted on November 2, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: iso-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION +INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA *** + + + +</pre> +<center> +<b>This ebook produced by Col Choat</b> +</center> +<br> +<br> +<b> +Note: The zipped version of this HTML file includes numerous illustrations and maps. + See <a href="http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext06/8jxpd10h.zip">http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext06/8jxpd10h.zip</a> +</b> +<br> +<br> +<hr> +<a name="home"></a> + +<h2>Journal of an Expedition<br> + into the Interior of Tropical Australia</h2> + +<h3>In Search of a Route from Sydney<br> + to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)</h3> + +<h4>by</h4> + +<h3>Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)<br> +Surveyor-General of New South Wales</h3> + +<p> </p> + +<h5>Originally published in 1848</h5> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-1a"></a><img alt="" src="trop-1a.jpg"></p> +<p> </p> +</center> + +<h5>TO<br> +THE HONOURABLE<br> +THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS<br> +OF THE<br> +LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW SOUTH WALES,<br> +THIS JOURNAL<br> +OF<br> +AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,<br> +PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,<br> +AND<br> +UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,<br> +IS<br> +DEDICATED<br> +BY<br> +THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,<br> +HUMBLE SERVANT,<br> +T. L. MITCHELL</h5> + +<p> </p> + +<h3>PREFACE.</h3> + +<p>"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the most +attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of Australia. There the +philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the poet for original studies and +ideas; the naturalist for additional knowledge; and the historian might begin at +a beginning. The traveller there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, +or towers; but he is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of +healthful progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future. +Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions still +unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now that the +rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most deserving people +on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved by the Almighty for +their use.<p> + +<p>In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early period +between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known to the +ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--</p> + +<blockquote>"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras, +Cautus humum longo signavit limite mensor."<br> +[* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of +arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of +internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and the +north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the last twenty +years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to bring under the notice +of men of science some of the earth's productions hitherto unknown. He cannot +sufficiently express his sense of obligation in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir +William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and Professor De Vriese, for supplying the +botanical matter and notes contained in this volume, and thus contributing to +the general stock of human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that +during the long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a +register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst of his +important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison of minute +details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned. + +<p>The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in its +accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of latitude; +trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever heights were +available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route. This route was +connected, at its commencement and termination, with the trigonometrical +survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a survey extending +two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of his intersections with +that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could not but be very satisfactory +to the author. + +<p>The geological specimens collected during this journey have been deposited +in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on the maps by the +numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be available to +geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science, the fossils now +brought from these remote regions will be accessible at any future time, and +something known of the geology as well as of the geography of the interior. As +Professor Forbes most readily undertook to describe the freshwater shells after +the work had passed through the press, that portion of the collection also has +thus been brought under the notice of geologists. + +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<h4><a href="#chapter01">CHAPTER I.</a></h4> + +<blockquote> + +<a href="#trop-02">GENERAL MAP</a><br><br> + +Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord +Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--Scattered +population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of sheep on cattle +runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--Sulphureous +springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan. Leave Bultje's +country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between the squatters and +the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of young bullocks.--Richard +Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night without water.--Distress from +heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion of the party.--Melancholy fate of +the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants discovered.--Encampment at Mudaà.--Carry +water forward.--Arrive at Daròbal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelègo.--Discovery +of a lagoon.--Encamp near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of +water.--Long ride.--Quit the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter02">CHAPTER II.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> + +<a href="#trop-05">MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE</a><br><br> + +Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's +intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of weather.--A +day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt plant.--Reconnoitre +Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach of a flood announced.--It +arrives in clear moonlight.--Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering +cattle.--A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the +Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds +destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to modern +names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of the Macquarie +and Bàrwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--Admirable distribution of +water. The ford at Wyàbry.--The party crosses the Darling</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter03">CHAPTER III.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-07">MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.</a><br><br> + +Plains and low hills.--The Caràwy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The +Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--During the +delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the Narran.--New +plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their passage.--The party +fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills examined.--Good grassy +country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west of the river.--Ride +up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley with a native.--Gravelly +ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--Approach the assembled +natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial reception.--Cross the +Balonne.--Reach the Culgòa.--Cross that river.--Route beyond.--The Upper +Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on trees.--A native scamp.--Fine +country.--Splendid reaches of the river--Lagoons near it.--Lake +Parachute.--Seek a position--for a depôt camp.--Ride to the +north-west.--Character of the country.--Search for water. Uncommon +birds.--Return to the camp.--New Acacia</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter04">CHAPTER IV.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-10">MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br> + +Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--Trace +one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore it.--Fine +country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small tributary.--Mountains +discovered.--Camp visited by three natives.--"Cogoon" the name of +tributary.--Charms of the Australian climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme +cold.--Traces of high floods in the Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount +Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or +DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel due north over open downs.--Advantages of +mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party +advances to the Amby--followed by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter +the country through the pass.--Find one pond.--A large river +discovered.--Position taken up on its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore +to the north-west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior +country visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to +trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--Native +visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The Tagando tribe +again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance again with a light +party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter05">CHAPTER V.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-13">MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE, AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br> + +My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--Ride +north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party crosses +Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the north-west.--Banks +of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards it.--Flank movement to +the Maranòa for water.--None found in its bed.--View from Mount Owen.--Names of +localities on the map.--Scarcity of water impedes our progress.--Water found +in rocky gullies.--Excursion northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern +summit of Mount Owen.--Progress through a broken country.--Night without +water.--Another route explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount +Owen.--Route for the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount +P. P. King.--View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount +Faraday.--Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the +camp.--The party with the carts advances.--Course of the new found river.--New +plants.--A large lake receives the river.--The outlet dry.--Enter a +scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich soil on the +downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river. Fossil wood.--Again +shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a gully.--Balmy Creek.--New +plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower Almond.--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter06">CHAPTER VI.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-18">MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,</a><br><br> + +Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate and +country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the +water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--Causes of +the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river channel from +the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much increased.--Long journey +through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the river bank.--Character of this +river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach +the river by moonlight.--Large lagoons.--New tributary--from the +S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp +visited by natives during my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party +crosses the river.--Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the +natives.--The shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable +production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--Singular +meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--Recross the +Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the +strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to explore a river in brigalow.--A +more direct way homewards.--Successful passage with carts and drays.--Open +downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the +Salvator.--Position taken up for a depôt camp.--Interesting plants</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter07">CHAPTER VII.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a><br><br> + +Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three volcanic +hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--The Nive and +the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found, after a night of +thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--Morning view from a +rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open downs.--Brigalow scrubs +away from the river.--River much increased.--Security from natives--Thoughts +in these solitudes.--The downs and the river.--An emu shot there.--A river +joins from the east.--Structure of native's huts.--Two separate channels +unite.--The river well filled.--Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare +pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and +return homewards.--The savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the +S. W.--Short cut along the left bank of the river.--Name it the +Victoria.--Privations in exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by +a snake.--Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp +of the pyramids.--Rare and new plants collected there</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter08">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a> and <a href="#trop-10">(Having reference to Map Map IV.)</a><br><br> + +Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount +Faraday.--Valley of the Warregò.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp over +the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranòa.--The river found to be near our former +track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle tracks.--Arrival at +the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--during our absence.--Plants +gathered at the depôt camp.--New plants.--Fossils +at Mount Sowerby.--Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the +depôt camp following the course of the Maranòa.--Discovery of a fine open +country.--Numbered trees at camps.--The country on the Maranòa.--Singular +habits of a fish.--Name of river obtained from good authority.--The +Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at +length discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive +at the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter09">CHAPTER IX.</a><br></h4> + +<blockquote> +<a href="#trop-07">(Having reference to Map III.)</a><br><br> + +Despatches sent forward.--Acquisitions +during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The party crosses the +Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle stations.--Heavy +rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a hill.--Dam thrown up.--The +waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival at the Barwan.--A +flood.--Cross the Màal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount Riddell +recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A stockman. +--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h4> + +<blockquote>Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of +the Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire, kangaroos, +and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--Experiment worth +trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the party.--Of convicts +generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--capabilities of soil and +climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division and appropriation of the +territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india</blockquote> + +<h4><a href="#trop-29">MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA</a></h4> + +<h4><a href="#appendix">APPENDIX.</a></h4> + +<blockquote>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--Letter, +dated 28th October, 1830<br><br> + +Systematical List of Plants</blockquote> + +<h3>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h3> + +<p><a href="#trop-01">Flood coming down the Macquarie</a><br> +<a href="#trop-02">Map I. The Indian Archipelago</a><br> +<a href="#trop-03">Portrait of Bultje</a><br> +<a href="#trop-04">Remnant of the Bogan tribe</a><br> +<a href="#trop-05">Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</a><br> +<a href="#trop-06">First use of the boats</a><br> +<a href="#trop-07">Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</a><br> +<a href="#trop-08">Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</a><br> +<a href="#trop-09">The River Balonne, 7th April</a><br> +<a href="#trop-10">Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to St. George's Bridge</a><br> +<a href="#trop-11">The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</a><br> +<a href="#trop-12">The black awaiting the white</a><br> +<a href="#trop-13">Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</a><br> +<a href="#trop-14">Tree without branches</a><br> +<a href="#trop-15">The Pyramids</a><br> +Martin's Range<br> +<a href="#trop-17">Tower Almond</a><br> +<a href="#trop-18">Map VI. The River Belyando</a><br> +<a href="#trop-19">Missile club of natives of Central Australia</a><br> +<a href="#trop-20">Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</a><br> +<a href="#trop-21">The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</a><br> +<a href="#trop-22">Lindley's Range</a><br> +<a href="#trop-23">Old native female</a><br> +<a href="#trop-24">Aboriginal dance</a><br> +<a href="#trop-25">View on the River Maranòa</a><br> +<a href="#trop-26">Acacia VARIANS</a><br> +<a href="#trop-27">St. Georgia's Bridge</a><br> +<a href="#trop-28">Last use of the boats</a><br> +<a href="#trop-29">Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</a></p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-02"></a><img alt="" src="trop-02.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map I. The Indian Archipelago</b></p> +</center> + +<h3>JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.</h3> + +<a name="chapter01"></a> +<h4>Chapter I.</h4> + +<blockquote>OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD +STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED +POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM +SYDNEY.--A SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET +AN OLD ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN +RIVER.--YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY +OF WATER.--THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY +FATE OF THE BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER +FORWARD.--DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS +DIE FROM THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, +BY MOVING TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH +THE PARTY.</blockquote> + +<p>The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my +first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always +entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii. +part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full +development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The +same direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the +Royal Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a +committee of the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most +desirable to pursue at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony +from distress found favour with the public. + +<p>At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich +islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the +industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail +themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,</p> + +<blockquote>"Which mock'd their scant manurings,<br> +and requir'd <i>more hands than theirs</i> to prune their wanton growth."</blockquote> + +<p>The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, +"al nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," +seemed to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the +wayward fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern +extremity of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis +incognita." The character of the interior of that country still remained +unknown, the largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere +exploration, the colonists of New South Wales might not have been very +anxious just at that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical +knowledge could be combined with that of exploring a route towards +the nearest part of the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, +it was easy to awaken the attention of the Australian public to the +importance of such an enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount +the Indian cavalry had commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of +Torres Straits had been injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided +by any overland route from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +<p>But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New +South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the +shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with +England by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by +land, was an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In +short, the commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the +direct road home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the +discovery of a good overland route between Sydney and the head of the +Gulf of Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be +introduced from that point to meet the English line at Singapore. + +<p>In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to +the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to the +settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest point +of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was +therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that +of the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a +considerable river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +<p>My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I +submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when +His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such +reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he +should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative +Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more +money than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards +the expense of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. +His Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to +the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was +still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited +to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general +interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery, +which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and +despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription, +and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six +persons who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not +been heard of, and were supposed to have either perished or been +destroyed by natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from +Port Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published, +shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.] + +<p>The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, +favourable to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still +declined to allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any +reason for keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it +became known in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, +with the express sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring +expedition from Adelaide into the northern interior of Australia, and that +he was actually then in New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had +expressed, in one of his early despatches to the British Government, his +readiness to encourage such an undertaking as that, and stated that "no +one came forward to claim the honour of such an enterprise;" yet now +that Lord Stanley had sanctioned the plan of the Surveyor General, +whose duty it was to survey the country, he refused to allow this officer +to proceed. The Legislative Council, however, renewed the petition for +this undertaking, to which the Governor at length assented, in 1845; and +the sum of 2000L. was unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but +with the clear understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of +the Surveyor General should be adopted. + +<p>The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. +The journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report +that a large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger, +accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine, +still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first papers +published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My +suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London +Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by +a map showing the line of exploration then recommended. + +<p>In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by +land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong +bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been +preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a +greater number of men, were considered objections; while many +experienced persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more +enduring than horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] +Eight drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: +four of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in +Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two parts, +on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party moved off +from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree. + +<p>I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having +rode there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following +Monday, 15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. +The Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:-- + +<pre> +SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition. +EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. +W. STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural History. +PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. +Charles Niblett, +William Graham, +ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. +WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses. +John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. +Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. +Edward Taylor, +William Bond, +William Mortimer, +George Allcot, +John Slater, +Richard Horton, +Felix Maguire, +James Stephens, Carpenters. +Job Stanley, +Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. +George Fowkes, Shoemaker. +John Douglas, Barometer carrier. +Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. +Andrew Higgs, Chainman. +William Hunter, With the horses. +Thomas Smith, +Patrick Travers, Carter and Pioneer. +Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. +Arthur Bristol, Sailmaker and Sailor. + +8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3 +light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was +provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the +party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest consisted +of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork. +</pre> + +<p> +With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the +party consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation, +with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so +powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while, +from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely on +their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the +face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of the +old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp +arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly +forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of +discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a +party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and it +was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as +mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the +same kind of authority could not be exercised. + +<p>Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former +line of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived +at Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same +chain of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named +Dochendoras Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. +These ponds had been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the +9th December--the day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had +been clear and sultry. A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, +levelled part of the forest near this place, laying prostrate the largest +trees, one side of which was completely barked by the hailstones. Many +branches of trees along the line of route, showed that the wind had been +very violent to a considerable distance. + +<p>16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not, +therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the +chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and +difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing, chiefly +to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to have taken, +but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays before my +arrival at the camp. + +<p>We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that +Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a +gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all +sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which +may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass, +or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, +although previously unknown in these regions. + +<p>17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 a.m. and travelled along a good +road, for about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of +ponds, following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called +Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we +finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We +had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but +everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a +blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of rain, it +had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the Macquarie. + +<p>Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared +with a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. +She had been there two years, and only complained that they had never +been able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to +leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they +should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut, +and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found +work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very +little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied +sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His +conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his +family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been +obliged to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man +neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under +the new regulations. + +<p>"So you saw no more of them?" + +<p>"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them <i>after they had been sold at +the pound</i>!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small +family of children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could +have kept my cows." + +<p>This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked +along, for he was one of the race--</p> + +<blockquote>"Who march to death with military glee."</blockquote> + +<p>But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the +hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the +desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the +<i>disjecta membra</i> of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left +to the people themselves in a new colony. + +<p>18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 a.m., and continued +along a tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, +in which there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the +good beaten road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, +which brought us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, +three miles higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to +encamp here, I pursued the road south-westward along the chain of +ponds, anxious to ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily +to the westward of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of +route to the Bogan. At about five miles I found an excellent opening +through which the road passed on ground almost level. Having ascended +a small eminence on the right, I fell in with some natives with spears, +who seemed to recognise me, by pointing to my old line of route, and +saying, "Majy Majy" (Major Mitchell). I little thought then that this was +already an outlying picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe +my party. The day was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds, +there called "the Little River," contained water in abundance, and was +said to flow into the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but +few sources in Hervey's Range. + +<p>The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, +and had been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now +a sheep station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a +mile and a half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country +suitable for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment +of sheep on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as +where sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where +cattle would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter +description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The +plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive pasturage +in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to inundations to +be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this description lies on the +interior side of the ranges, as far as I have examined them. It is watered +by the sources of the rivers Goulburn, Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, +Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh, Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and +Darling; on which rivers the runs will always make cattle fat. There are +two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there is something salsolaceous in +the herbage also on which cattle thrive so well; and the open plains and +muddy waterholes are their delight. Excessive drought, however, may +occasionally reduce the owners of such stock to great extremities, and +subject them to serious loss. The Acacia pendula, a tree whose <i>habitat</i> is +limited and remarkable, is much relished by the cattle. It is found only in +clay soils, on the borders of plains, which are occasionally so saturated +with water as to be quite impassable; never on higher ground nor on any +lower than that limited sort of locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers +which at some seasons overflow. In such situations, even where grass +seems very scarce, cattle get fat; and it is a practice of stockmen to cut +down the Acacia pendula (or Myall trees, as they call them) for the cattle +to feed on. + +<p>At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual +who had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of +colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his +consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state +of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there +were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be +startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system +which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one +thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should +be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so +favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite +theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and +propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this +unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal +native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they +could not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences +between squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it +were an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more +likely to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children; +remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances, +all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, +then place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than +a black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I +penned these remarks. + +<p>19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously +examined. On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, +plants, and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each +side, and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious +shrub never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy +valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of former +difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had travelled +upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This consisted +of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had formerly +been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of Three +Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their +appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend Bultje, +who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former journey along +the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had elapsed since I +formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time had made no +alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to forward my views +that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water was to be found; +and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former route, by the least +possible <i>détour</i>. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N. + +<p>20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass +seemed good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A +cattle station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and +at about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it +crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally +diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace of +the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill laid +down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley, +I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very +springs mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being +limpid and surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were +now trodden by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been +endeavouring to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it +pure, by laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The +change produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by +the intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, +and I could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, +should have felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from +the level plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty +feet lower continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste +of sulphur, and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more +celebrated. They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are +not supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain +descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang +Creek did however retain some water which had fallen during the last +rain. The thermometer stood at 107° in the tent. + +<p>21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a +straight line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half +way to the Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating +country, just heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our +guide knew the country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here +also were two flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head +station, being fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. +While travelling this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters +from Buree, and a cart had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a +small supply of corn. That country is considered excellent as a fattening +run for sheep; the shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which +keeps them in excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of +water at some seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into +sheep runs, and VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these +lands of Hervey's range of temporary and uncertain value. + +<p>22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the +little chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was +good--the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. +W. It was the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing +at length to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we +further on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon +its western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains +had been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length +arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy, +and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here +looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there +was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand, +and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the +country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or +Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the +Bogan seemed low. + +<p>This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the +failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an +almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water +for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform +width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be +sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain +tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the +sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions +of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are +greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is +scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had +been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses +cannot travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the +mercy of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking +kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of +cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and +lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind +W.N.W. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-03"></a><img alt="" src="trop-03.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Portrait of Bultje</b></p> +</center> + +<p>23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. +Templar's station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood +by the party as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink +to each of the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest +water-holes (Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service +he promised, I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco +promised him, and also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This +native got a bad name from various stockmen, as having been implicated +in the murder of Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; +and it must indeed require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates +to maintain his footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen +or shepherds on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter +savages naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as +we should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to +them, while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most +unjustly connected this native's name with the murder of one of our +number. His laconic manner and want of language would not admit of +any clear explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and +the difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance +of his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley +in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil, at +least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition. Much +tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by +stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when +aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to save +or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this, without +having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own valley, +"surpasseth me to know." + +<p>We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. +Gilmore's station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. +At the station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a +flood had come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up +the well. The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the +clay was wet and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. +Thermometer in my tent 109°, wind W. N. W. + +<p>24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest +sunbeams shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off +early, but the progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind +blew like a blast furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We +encamped on the Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after +travelling about ten miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the +west. + +<p>25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more +from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°. + +<p>26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to +Mr. Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°. + +<p>27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of +the bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed. + +<p>At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind +from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot +wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when +exposed to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer +would break as it only reached to 132°. + +<p>28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off +early, accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The +day was excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally +encamped on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling +eleven miles. Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky +became overcast, and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and +suddenly fell. I found that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, +leaving a jug of the water tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. +Towards evening the sky was overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The +night was uncommonly hot. At ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at +day-break at 90°. + +<p>29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle +would no longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from +south. Finding a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the +lighter portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the +hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the <i>Polygonum junceum</i>, +reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a <i>Solanum</i> in +flower, of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener +grass indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at +about twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and +elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had +been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of +the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where +the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the +Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had +been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see <i>infra</i>), +but the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations +untenable, without more support than the Colonial government was able +to afford. There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer +of the country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. +The map will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep +their ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. +[* See map of Eastern Australia--<i>infra</i>.] The Darling is peopled more +permanently by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: +affording as it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in +seasons of very high flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got +at, and that they are obliged to resort to the higher country at such +seasons, between the Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also +happens that the cattle of the squatter are most accessible from the soft +state of the ground; the stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The +tribes from the Lachlan and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and +when tribes assemble they are generally ready for any mischief. The +Bogan is particularly within their reach, and when wet seasons do occur +the cattle of squatters must be very much at the mercy of the savages. +The tribes from the Darling are extremely hostile, even to the more +peaceably disposed hilltribes near the colony, and several stations have +already been abandoned in consequence of the outrages of the aborigines +from the Darling and Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils +as the precarious or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply +of water must continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from +actual possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full +benefit of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, +covered with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages +smile at the want of generalship by which they have been allowed to +burn the white man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the +Bogan. The establishment of a police station near the junction of the +Bogan with the Darling, or the formation of an inland township about +Fort Bourke, had been sufficient to have secured the stations along the +Bogan and Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well +as our own countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such +are the results where <i>squatting</i> has been permitted to supersede settling. +With possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, +and no such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British +colony. + +<p>The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been +that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50 +miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206 feet +in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the Bogan is +only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of +upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà +from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the +general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which the +overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and other +channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where the +declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in the +channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither flow with +so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by which ponds +are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this part, +during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about double +the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia. + +<p>I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of +Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require to +take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well, +having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas the +working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long +journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many +young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and +break them in as we proceeded. + +<p>30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool +morning. Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. +Kerr 32 young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the +stockyard. + +<p>Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham. + +<p>31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 a.m., 62°: at noon, 109°. +Wind S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately +avoiding the tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the +air, also some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much +wanted for the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in +the evening. + +<p>1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, +and was very high at 11 a.m. The party were chiefly employed breaking +in the young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with +the hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the +evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the +<i>Atriplex semibaccata</i> of Brown was a common straggling plant. + +<p>2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning +was cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the +clouds, which resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat +again. Besides the <i>Salsola australis</i>, we found a <i>Halgania</i> with lilac +flowers, probably distinct from the species hitherto described, which are +natives of the south-west coast. + +<p>3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the +old; and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in +the Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to +the scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the +first hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named +Mount Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The +little pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of +Cunningham was so identified with the botanical history of almost all the +shrubs in the very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no +other monument seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled +Cunningham to my mind; his barbarous murder, and the uncertainty +which still hung over the actual circumstances attending it. The shrubs +told indeed of Cunningham; of both brothers, both now dead; but neither +the shrubs named by the one, nor the gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had +witnessed the bloody deed, could tell more. There the <i>Acacia pendula</i>, +first discovered and described by Allan, could only</p> + +<blockquote>"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand,<br> +For ever silent, and for ever sad."</blockquote> + +<p>4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with +the young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of +conveyance was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no +pecuniary saving would compensate, as compared with light carts and +horses. I proceeded forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called +Tabbaratong, where some water was said still to remain. We found some +mud and water only; although some that was excellent was found about +two miles lower down the Bogan, late in the evening. + +<p>We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the +squatter. The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and +humiliating proofs that the white man had given way, were visible in the +remains of dairies burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We +hoped to find within the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, +unsoiled by cattle, and a surface on which we might track our own stray +animals, without their being confused by the traces of others. + +<p>5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the +night, retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were +brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful +native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light +carts, guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, +who had come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native +of the lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our +route was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of <I>Callitris</I> and +other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so +thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going +through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters. +The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former +route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young +native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people +driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan, +which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel +downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also +on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search, +but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà +and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading +the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we +arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was +however excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, +and we hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only +arrived at as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The +drays with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock +and Yuranigh back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without +water, and that I wished him, if still <i>en route</i>, immediately to unyoke the +cattle, encamp on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes +during the night, and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes +I had found near Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water +at Cadduldury. + +<p>6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a +message from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I +went forward with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 a.m.. +The morning happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of +water and food the preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John +Douglas and Isaac Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at +the first water-hole. But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy +loads thus far in the extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to +me. William Baldock again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of +water on a horse, a horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the +drays, the drivers of which were almost frantic and unable to do their +work from thirst. He brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still +remained at his encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the +drivers (Mortimer and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, +and chains, to escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to +watch his own team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune +to the whole party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as +my camp, but I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the +water, which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left +with the drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the +water, and the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. +Stephenson, who had hastened back with several bottles, relieved his +thirst, and, as the man said, "saved his life." + +<p>Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been +hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of +the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and +heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives, +however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with +which I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably +disposed towards us. + +<p>7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare +bullocks, having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during +the night. The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part +of the other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in +charge of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would +also have gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. +Kennedy sent him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays +carrying the provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. +The day surpassed in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon +in the shade stood at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. +Kennedy was distant at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà. + +<p>The six drays came in about 4 p.m.; the sheep not until long after +dark. Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. +Kennedy, and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement +for drawing forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care +of, and which was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the +evening of next day, to be attached on their arrival to the two drays with +which they were to come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest +of the night, until they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined +to meet them early next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it +was not my intention to send after the four stray bullocks until the drays +came in, and the party could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in +the shade all day. + +<p>The <i>Calotis cuneifolia</i> was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was +the common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the +capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having +reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are found +so troublesome among the wool. + +<p>8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he +had found him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from +want of water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to +a young dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated +that a tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. +Baldock had seen several bullocks dead on the way. + +In the evening the two first teams were sent off as arranged. This day +had also been very sultry, especially towards evening. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-04"></a><img alt="" src="trop-04.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Remnant of the Bogan tribe</b></p> +</center> + +<p>9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were +despatched as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered +the camp. We had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, +to suffer so little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, +until I could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I +had been previously assured by the young native that water was still to +be found at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal +to the whole party. + +<p>On the banks of the Bogan, the <i>Atriplex hagnoides</i> formed a round +white-looking bush. + +<p>I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, +and had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who +remembered my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show +me my old track and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the +northward of my present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had +been killed in a fight with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. +Two old grey-haired men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed +out to me as his brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that +I had at first imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on +their hams opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and +grey, and melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race! + +<p>The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless +struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river +Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild +natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of the +tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives were +chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie. + +<p>The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than +Nyingan, a large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct +line lower down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of +water, and known to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were +alarmingly low, and it became evident that our progress under such a +scarcity of water would be attended with difficulty. These natives gave +us also a friendly hint that "<i>gentlemen</i>" should be careful of the spears of +the natives of Nyingan, as many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately +by white men from Wellington Valley. + +<p>Among the woods we observed the white-flowered <i>Teucrium racemosum</i>, +the <i>Justicia media</i>, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink +flowers; also a <i>Stenochilus</i> and <i>Fusanus</i> (the Quandang), although not in +fruit; a new species of <i>Stipa</i>, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse +rough herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in +the way of <i>C. truncata</i>, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed pales,[**] +and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new <i>Eremophila</i> with +white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The beautiful +<i>Damasonium ovalifolium</i>, with white flowers red in the centre, still +existed in the water. + +<p>[* <i>S. scabra</i> (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi villosis, +glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis involutis culmis +brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ subciliatâ.] + +<p>[** <i>C. sclerantha</i> (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris tactu +scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque breviaristato +cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili vacuo.] + +<p>[*** <i>E. mitchelli</i> (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis linearibus +planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4 superioribus +subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.] + +<p>In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and +the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It +was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his +track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from +following it further. + +<p>I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that +out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very +near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had +terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 p.m., 70°; with wet bulb, +63°. + +<p>10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to +the S. W. in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I +sent William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the +stray bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track +to Mudà, where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and +sheep, already arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of +having been on watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell +asleep, and that the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, +but lost himself. He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, +etc. which he declined. + +<p>We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only +visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a +state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We +had passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This +position of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank +nearly clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and +surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The +last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of a +young crop shooting up amongst it. + +<p>11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the +cattle and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy. + +<p>12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I +noticed the <i>Kochia brevifolia</i>, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow +fruit, edged with pink. + +<p>13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning +(by moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) +could not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. +Kerr's station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be +found. We had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great +scarcity of water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that +our loss had been so slight. + +<p>I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards +Nyingan, which bore 353°--and having found a tolerably open country +for about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and +encamped, sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà. +Enough had been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the +camp. To ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already +stated, the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be +secured, having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I +found a new grass of the genus <i>Chloris</i>[*], something like <i>Chl. truncata</i> in +habit, some starved specimens of <i>Trichinium lanatum</i>; amongst the +grasses I also found the <i>Aristida calycina</i> of Brown, the curious +<i>Neurachne mitchelliana</i> Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and +also a new <i>Pappophorum</i> with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart +shower fell during the evening. + +<p>[* <i>C. acicularis</i> (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris tactu +scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque setaceo +aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.] + +<p>[** <i>P. flavescens</i> (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis, spicâ +compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis pilosis, foliis +vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis villosis.] + +<p>14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were +immediately yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on +the same bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been +encamped, I turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water +there. I found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a +journey of about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently +found I had encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was +guided by the friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his +country afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I +had cut off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a +north-westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels +will probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan +may be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial +stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had +been burnt down. + +<p>15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day +was fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were +found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and +the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by +Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another. +An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the +<i>Jasminum lineare</i>, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the +water, I saw the <i>Alternanthera nodiflora</i>. + +<p>16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, +crossing the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked +trees. We lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and +made a slight détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we +encamped, and were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this +day's journey Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen +with those of the feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old +track, and returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces +of our party. + +<p>At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the +natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a +house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were +sunken very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp +had been established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look +for the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of +my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it +thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water, but +in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen, during +the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan. + +<p>17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the +native Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to +the Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from +that point to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, +provided this did not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by +sunset. Two old women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by +whom Piper was told that the nearest permanent water was "<i>niminé</i>," +where white men had attempted to form a cattle-station, and been +prevented by natives from the Darling, many of whom had since been +shot by the white men. They said the place was far beyond Canbelego, +the next stage of my former journey, and where these women also said +little or no water remained. + +<p>Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven a.m., having found water at +Canbelego. Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the +fruit of the <i>Capparis mitchellii</i>, which he called an apple, being new to +him, but which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, +and said was called "<i>moguile</i>;" he also said that it was eaten by the +natives. + +<p>18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two +small ponds remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass +than we had hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of +water, we had been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again +forward looking for water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and +after following the river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was +now within the same distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had +found abundance of water when I sent him to survey it upwards during +my last return journey up the Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in +which Piper pointed, that the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as +containing water; and as the course of that creek, so far as shown on +maps, led even more directly to the Darling than did the Bogan, I was +willing in such a season of extreme drought, to avail myself of its waters. +My eye had been much injured by straining at stars while at the camp +near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to send Mr. Kennedy on one of my +own horses, followed by Graham, to examine the water in Duck Creek. I +instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35° E. of North, until he should +reach the creek, and if he found water in it to return direct to the camp, +but that if water was not found on first making the creek, then he was to +follow Duck Creek up to its junction with an eastern branch, surveyed +also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence to the camp on a bearing of +240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with Yuranigh down the Bogan, to +ascertain if the channel contained any pond between our camp and the +part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy. + +<p>This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve +hours, and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after +examining its bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on +the plains near the head of the eastern branch, but around which there +was no grass, all having been recently burnt. + +<p>20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven a.m., saying he had been +twenty-four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the +same time Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me +that these animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud +remaining in the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that +four of the horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that +William Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an +early hour in the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the +bullocks to Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, +also the horses, and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the +whole of the cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks +filled. + +<p>21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to +Nyingan, I conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of +1835), having on two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts +under them all the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use +the iron boat as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage +forward; that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards +the water I hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a +convenient distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven +forward to return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered +possible, even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the +fine reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the +14th May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from +the gin's description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the +disputed station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve +miles from Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions +to bring the drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. +I had sent thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of +Baldock and the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no +longer at Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, +the contents of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was +immediately sent back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh +horses had been left, to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to +Nyingan during the night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the +dray--already there with the harness casks--bringing an additional supply +back in the kegs, when the bullocks returned next day. + +<p>It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the +state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at +once, whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to +cross to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I +accordingly set out at 3 p.m., from where the water had been placed in +the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal +Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from +the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we +reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed +was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond +of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel +downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found +the general direction was westward, until it <i>joined the bogan</i>. We next +followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so, +without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any +of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep, +in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful. + +<p>22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western +bends of the Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great +pond beyond Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very +shining and compact in a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, +that the grass was green as from recent rain, and that there was more +chirping of birds; I was tempted once more by these indications, to look +for water in the Bogan's almost hopeless channel, and there we found a +pond, at sight of which poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell +asleep almost in the water. It was small, but being sufficient for our +immediate wants, we thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and +proceeded on our eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this +pond I discovered my old track, which we continued to follow across +those large plains, whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. +These plains I soon again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, +distinctly visible in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven +years. Arriving at length near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we +resumed our examination of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle +tracks; the ovens in which the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and +about their old encampments many heaps of bones; but in none of the +deep beds of former ponds or lagoons could we discover any water. The +grass was nevertheless excellent and abundant; and its waste, added to +the distress the want of water occasioned us, made us doubly lament the +absence of civilised inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and +fine soil could have been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor +were even kangaroos or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer +inhabitants of these parts. I turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it +would have been unsafe to venture with cattle and drays into these +regions before rain fell. In returning, we at first found it difficult to find +our old track, by which alone we could hope that night to reach the small +pond of the morning; but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and +we had also the good fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the +pond before sunset. There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad +indeed to have even that water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, +had repeatedly thrown himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite +ill from thirst. + +<p>23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the +pond; but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, +although with water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from +an old marked tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I +several times during our ride fell in with the old track, and finally +reached the camp after a rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party +had arrived the previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr. +Kennedy was absent, having set off that morning in search of water to +the N. E. with Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving +word that he should return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that +hour, however, and at two I moved the party across the Bogan, and +proceeded along open plains towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the +intention of there refreshing the cattle and horses, and awaiting more +favourable weather. I previously watered out of the half-boat, 106 +bullocks, and gave a quart to each of the horses. On the way, the heat +was so intense that our three best and strongest kangaroo dogs died, and +it was not until 10 p.m. that the drays reached the ponds where I had +proposed to encamp. About an hour and a half before, Mr. Kennedy also +came in, having galloped the two horses 66 miles, and hurt both their +backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 p.m., therm. 80°, wet bulb, +68°. + +<p>24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from +ophthalmia, and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several +of the men were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of +this malady in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the +warm air wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same +effect until the weather changed. At 9 p.m., therm. 84°, with wet bulb, +68°.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-05"></a><img alt="" src="trop-05.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter02"></a> +<h4>Chapter II.</h4> + +<blockquote>SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE +TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER +THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S +INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER +CHANGES.--RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM +THE SALT PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS +CANNONBÀ--CROSSES PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER +MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD +ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE +PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY +OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST +THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS +DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS +COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT +LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING +ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT +LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE +MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD THE DARLING AT WYÀBRY.</blockquote> + +<p>25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application +of leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent +William Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought +back enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The +ground here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling, +with the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in +seeking some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle. +Therm. at sunrise, 97°; at noon, 100°; at 9 p.m. 90°; with wet bulb, 71°. + +<p>26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E. +direction to where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected +from a cloudy sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that +water was near, as natives are seldom found where there is none. He +returned early with the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of +water in a creek about five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks. +My eyes were so far recovered that I could observe the altitude of a +star, thus ascertaining the latitude of this camp to be 31° 20' 20" S. +Therm. at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 112°; at 9 p.m. 84°; with wet bulb, 70°. + +<p>27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called +"Cannonbà" by the natives. There we found greater abundance of water +and better grass than we had seen near water during the whole journey, +and I determined to halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had +previously intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle, +when we should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers +had been much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses +had got out of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the +Darling their services would be more required. I was also to try the +experiment here, whether I might prosecute the journey without danger +of losing my eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point, +had been almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no +hostile natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins; +rain was daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly +come in a short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented +to me as needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the +wheels;--and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we +could encamp under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We +placed our tents amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge, +and soon all hands were at work in their various avocations, whilst the +cattle and horses enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance +of water. + +<p>Amongst the bushes here, a <i>Hakea</i>, with simple filiform mucronulate +leaves without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls +resembling dry plums. Also the <i>Senecio cunninghami</i> (D.C.), found by +Allan Cunningham on the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson +discovered here a very pretty new <i>Trichinium</i>, with heads of hoary pink +flowers. [* <i>T. semilanatum</i> (Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis, +angulatis, foliis linearibus acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris +hemisphericis, rachi densè bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis +plumosis parcè lanatis.] + +<p>I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan, +consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E. of +us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by Larmer +is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful one it +has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds (whence +we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonbà;" and to what I +suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point +northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78°; at +noon, 115°; at 4 p.m. 96°; at 9, 88°; with wet bulb, 73°. + +<p>28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with +large chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the +bottom of one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about +the banks. Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station +had not been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by +some old gins seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when +the place was abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the +W.N.W. of Mount Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse +was broader than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained +much granitic sand, all but identifying its sources with those of the +Macquarie. This day was very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a +shower fell about 3 p.m. Thermometer at sunrise, 78°; at noon, 115°; at 4 +p.m. 108°; at 9, 84°; with wet bulb, 63°. + +<p>29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer +to 115° in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon +became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near +us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a heavy +shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102°. + +<p>30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the +quarter where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This +day the doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in +my former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor +fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 108°; at 9, +100 ½°; with wet bulb, 79°. + +<p>31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of +observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The +table for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by +my friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88° of Fahrenheit, whereas at +4 p.m., the centigrade thermometer stood at 44½°, which is equal to +112° of Fahrenheit. + +<p>This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking +with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made +some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various +sayings and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never +any serious intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its +progress. The services of other more intelligent natives might easily have +been obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but +Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of +course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long +interval of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance, +although during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay, +the river Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party +on this last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled +gun, clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets, +place in a tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a +very bad shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to +obtain any clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as +interpreter; he went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had +drawn his rations and those of the two young natives separately from the +men's mess the week before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their +fair share; he was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine +departure, foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he +could thus obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He +also had it in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from +the other two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had +heard of the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards +the cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were +actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers, +--this man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse +to boot, and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom +he called his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native +guide, just at the time when such guides were most required. The only +difficulty I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two +others, and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in +advance, and he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to +have him instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other +native, Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He +denied the intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to +him to leave the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not +understand him; that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so +far from his own home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to +Bathurst, and the rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the +other two, and that he should be kept apart from them during the night. +Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 111°; at 4 p.m., 112°; at 9, +101°;--with wet bulb, 78°. + +<p>1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal +Graham. Mr. Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police +station, and make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper +to Bathurst, his own district, which would put it out of his power to +molest the party by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it. +On them this measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh +calmly observing that Piper had only himself to blame for what had +befallen him, and that he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook +also to obtain, if he could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those +which had died from excessive heat. By that loss our party was left +almost without dogs; and dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and +emus, but to afford protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks +by the natives, in which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were +approaching, had been rather too successful against various armed parties +of whites. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 106°; at +9 p.m., 88°;--with wet bulb, 76°. + +<p>2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud +which appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and +eagerly watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a +presage of rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., +106; at 9, 88°;--with wet bulb, 72°. + +<p>3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning, +and dark clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell +about 9 a.m., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of +nimbus. The high wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and +this morning, and in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But +when the rain began to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which +quarter the rain seemed to come. With it came a very peculiar smell, +which I had noticed near Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the +commencement of the rainy weather there; and nothing could have been +more welcome to us now, than the prospect of rain, and the decided +change in the temperature from 115° to 73°. This was almost the first day +during a month in which the air had not been warmer than our blood; +often had it been greater than fever heat, so that 73° felt to us as cool as +50° would have been to a resident of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at +our camp, but it seemed that rain was falling about the sources of the +Bogan and other places at which a supply of water was indispensable to +enable us to proceed. At sunset, glimpses of a clear sky appeared about +the horizon, and during the night the moon and stars came forth, and +destroyed all hopes of more rain. We were thankful, however, for the +relief afforded by what had fallen, which had lowered the temperature +about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a night of refreshing rest. +Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 68°; +--with wet bulb, 67°. + +<p>4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with +refreshing breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61°. This day +we had completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the +tire-rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the +wheels; the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat, +as to have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were +required by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts, +and the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and +zeal. Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for +another effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 89°; +at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than +I had yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across +the sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards +the northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the +thermometer never having risen above 96°. By 6 p.m., the barometer had +fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial +circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a +change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not +only to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight. +Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 73°; with +wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky, +and shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change +seemed to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the +previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and +at about 7 a.m. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the +woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer +had fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue +through the night. Range of thermometer from 74° to 72°. + +<p>7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the +mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening. +About 10 a.m. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke +through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus. +Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie, +Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had +risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains +about five inches. + +<p>Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for +Piper's conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back +a good bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various +water-courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the +natives about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at +sunrise, 74°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 90°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, +75°. + +<p>8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air +made us much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had +been living, although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air, +especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry +heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it +(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at +noon, 96°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°. + +<p>9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to +bestow more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these +remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It +appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only +efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible +condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a +vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher +country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the +"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for licking +the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep, lumps of it +being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it is certain that by +this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much injured in health and +condition, losing their appetite for grass, and finally passing clay only, as +may be seen near such places. In the salt plants on these plains, nature +has amply provided for this taste of these large herbivora for salt. Our +sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and the cattle ate greedily of +various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly salt to the taste. The colour +of the leaves of such bushes is usually a very light bluish green, and there +are many species. That with the largest leaves, called salt-bush by +stockmen, and by Dr. Brown <i>Rhagodia parabolica</i>, was very useful as a +vegetable after extracting the salt sufficiently from it. This we +accidentally discovered from some experiments made by Mr. +Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the proportion of salt +contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much as a twentieth part +of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from two pounds of the +leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the leaves a few minutes +in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a third water, the leaves +formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat resembling spinach. +As the superior excellence of these runs for fattening cattle is admitted +on all hands, as compared with others more abundant in grass on the +eastern side of the great range, would it not be advisable for the colonists +to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and thereby to produce a vegetable +substitute for the rock salt, which is not only expensive, but only a very +imperfect remedy for the clay-licking propensities of sheep and cattle on +many runs? Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at +9, 86°;--with wet bulb, 75°. + +<p>[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the +green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then +strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted +to a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint +of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then +exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a +cubic shape having previously been formed."] + +<p>10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an +animal apparently of the same genus as the <i>Dipus Mitchellii</i>, and which +seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three +millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three more. +A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 p.m. a dark thunder cloud +came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was very +loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high, and rain +heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 p.m., except in the N. E. where +the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°. + +<p>11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward +of our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the +Macquarie. I hoped to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party +halting on it one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I +was now convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party +until it could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it, +with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp, a +direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to divide the +journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I crossed plains +covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at length obtained a +sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck Creek (that of Sturt), +or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the bearing of Mount +Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined the bed of the +Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing therein the least +indication of water, and returned to the camp fully resolved to proceed +next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little way below Mount +Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for the cattle to travel +over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., +76°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. From an average of twenty-five +observations of the mercurial column, the height of this station has been +determined to be 566 English feet above the level of the sea. + +<p>12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonbà ponds, +where we had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and +crossing the channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we +travelled over open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At +thirteen miles we reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra," +a name by which it is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this +we crossed several branches, from which it would appear as if the name +was derived from that of the hand, which is the same, especially as +natives sometimes hold up the hand and extend the fingers, when they +would express that a river has various branches or sources. I went on +with an advanced party towards the Macquarie, and encamped on the +bank of that river at 5 p.m. The thick grass, low forests of yarra trees, +and finally the majestic blue gum trees along the river margin, reminded +me of the northern rivers seen during my journey of 1831. Still even the +bed of this was dry, and I found only two water holes on examining the +channel for two miles. One of these was, however, deep, and we +encamped near it, surrounded by excellent grass in great abundance. The +Macquarie, like other Australian rivers, has a peculiar character, and this +was soon apparent in the reeds and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy +plats, and not, as usual in other rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks. +The channel was here deep and dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by +Marra Creek, the <i>Acacia salicina</i>, whereof the wood has a strong +perfume resembling violets, also a new small-leaved <i>Kochia</i> with +intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, +57°;--with wet bulb, 56°. + +<p>[* <i>K. thymifolia</i> (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis +pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-01"></a><img alt="" src="trop-01.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Flood coming down the Macquarie</b></p> +</center> + +<p>13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the <i>maladie du pays</i>--sore +eyes. Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster, +and to various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to +which I required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down. +But no one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as +no person had passed that way; the country being more open on the +eastern side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at +Gràway, about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the +west bank. Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the +mounted police. To my most important question--what water was to be +found lower down in the river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely, +"plenty, and a <i>flood coming down</i> from the Turmountains." The two +policemen said they had travelled twenty miles with it, on the day +previous, and that it would still take some time to arrive near our camp. +About noon the drays arrived in good order, having been encamped +where there was no water about six miles short of our camp, the whole +distance travelled, from Cannonbà to the Macquarie, having been about +nineteen miles. In the afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the +river, reported on their return, that the flood poured in upon them when +in the river bed, so suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed +of the Macquarie before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I +could scarcely believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who +had been put to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I +stationed a man with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on +the flood's appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the +channel nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to +see, as well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came, +however, but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp. +Some hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like +that of a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking +timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very slow +degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw +various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood +appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending +of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene +moonlight night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of +waters and loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the +next bend. It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a +moving cataract, tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them +against its banks. It was preceded by a point of meandering water, +picking its way, like a thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark, +dry, and shady bed, of what thus again became a flowing river. By my +party, situated as we were at that time, beating about the country, and +impeded in our journey, solely by the almost total absence of water +--suffering excessively from thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced +the scene never can be forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the +product of storms in the far off mountains, that overlooked our homes. +My first impulse was to have welcomed this flood on our knees, for the +scene was sublime in itself, while the subject--an abundance of water +sent to us in a desert--greatly heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice +it to say, I had witnessed nothing of such interest in all my Australian +travels. Even the heavens presented something new, at least uncommon, +and therefore in harmony with this scene; the variable star ARGUS had +increased to the first magnitude, just above the beautiful constellation of +the southern cross, which slightly inclined over the river, in the only +portion of sky seen through the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly +increasing in magnitude, might, as characteristic of her rivers, be +recognized as the star of Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The +river gradually filled up the channel nearly bank high, while the living +cataract travelled onward, much slower than I had expected to see it; so +slowly, indeed, that more than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet +music of the head of the flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the +murmur of waters, and the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly +through the tortuous windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to +sleep by that melody of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and +evidently so unwonted in the dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 63°; +--with wet bulb, 57°. + +<p>14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of +the banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but +no longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion +downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the +Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a +probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing +the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the +Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling +soon into a cart track which led us to Gràway, Mr. Kinghorne's cattlestation, +and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of the +river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so +generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of the +marshes. The <i>Imperata arundinacea</i>, with its long head of white silky +flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock, +on the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. +M., 82°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 60°. Height above the level of the +sea, 475 feet. + +<p>15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day, +and guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have +his assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other +objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees +of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was +visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon. +Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most +formidable impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty +of these got astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank +of rather firm ground, in lat. 30° 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on +some parts of open plains near the marshes, and the best was the +PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as +having been found pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we +could not then discover. Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was +called by the natives "coolly," and that the gins gather it in great +quantities, and pound the seeds between stones with water, forming a +kind of paste or bread; thus was clearly explained the object of those +heaps of this grass which we had formerly seen on the banks of the +Darling. There they had formed the native's harvest field. There also I +observed a brome grass, probably not distinct from the <i>Broods australis</i> +of Brown; it called to mind the squarrose brome grass of Europe. +Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 87°; at 4, 89°; at 9, 73°;--with +wet bulb, 66°. + +<p>[* Vol. i. p. 237.] + +<p>16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to +examine Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be +found in it lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with +the store-keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost +sheep in the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not +very far from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the +flock. Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the +cattle. We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant +--not above thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could +scarcely approach the water without sinking to the knees. We could +water the horses with buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of +filling one of the half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means, +was inevitable, and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a +wheel required repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these +reasons found it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly. +At sunset, Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the +"Marra," (Duck Creek). + +<p>Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the +<i>Andropogon sericeus</i> and an <i>Erianthus</i>, which appeared to differ from +<i>E. fulvus</i> in having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the +European <i>Lythrum salicaria</i>, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among +the reeds of the Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the +Thames. We saw also <i>Morgania floribunda</i>, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D.C.), +a variety with toothed leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling <i>B. +heterodonta</i>, only the leaves were entire. A new species of <i>Lotus</i> +appeared among the reeds, very near the narrow-leaved form of <i>L. +australis</i> on the one hand, and the South European narrow-leaved form +of <i>L. corniculatus</i> on the other; the flowers were pink, and smaller than +in <i>L. australis</i>.[*] Also an <i>Ethulia</i> [**], which may, on further examination, +constitute a new genus; it was found by Allan Cunningham on the +Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9, +61°;--with wet bulb, 54°. + +<p>[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus v. +lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-floris, +calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-acuminatis tubo +suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.] + +<p>[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo, +foliis oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis +globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis +paucis brevibus.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-06"></a><img alt="" src="trop-06.jpg"></p> +<p><b>First use of the boats</b></p> +</center> + +<p> +17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne +having shown me a few miles more of the best ground between the +scrubs and reeds, went towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie, +where a belt of open forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass. +He prevailed on a native whom he met with there to come with him to +me, and to guide me to water until I reached the Bàrwan. This native at +first seemed rather afraid of our numerous party, but our own native, +Yuranigh, endeavoured by every means to make him at ease, and to +induce him to remain with us. He guided us this day by fine open ground +westward of the marshes, to a part of the Macquarie where the banks +were solid enough to admit of the cattle drinking. The name was +Bilgawàngara; I reached the spot early, but at sunset no drays had come +up. At length I was informed that such was the softness of the soil, that +the drays had sank frequently, that two were fast in one place, four in +another, and that two of the bullocks were astray. The marshes were said +to be just then occupied by some angry tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne +had warned me to be on my guard. The patience necessary to any +traveller depending on bullocks and bullock drivers, I then thought ought +to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was very shy, and Yuranigh +feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for finding water--on +our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not have done then to +have sent him away. The weather might change, and these marshes +become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of Providence +in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red Sea. It +depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be considered +Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the moon +had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat. 30° 45' +55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, +60°;--with wet bulb, 54°. + +<p>18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind, +and the iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The +cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's journey +without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of the two +lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to little +Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had lost +them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search, as +Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of +entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his +escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that the +white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the +country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere +child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them +being young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds. + +<p>In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the +native tobacco, <i>Nicotiana suaveoleus</i>, the <i>Minuria heterophylla</i> (D.C.), +found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a <i>Fugosia</i> near <i>F. +digitata</i> of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery <I>Atriplex</I> +with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*] +Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 93°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 67°; +--with wet bulb 59°. + +<p>[* <i>A. nummularia</i> (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis +alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque +argenteis, floribus monoïcis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis subrotundis +dentatis basi connatis.] + +<p>19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He +was a very perfect specimen of the <i>genus homo</i>, and such as never is to +be seen, except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale +of graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free +enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than +can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod +animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs; the +fulness yet perfect elasticity of the <i>glutei</i> muscles. The hollowness of the +back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso, ornamented +as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised scarifications most +tastefully placed; such were some of the characteristics of this perfect +"piece of work." Compared with it, the civilised animal, when +considered merely in the light of a specimen in natural history, how +inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of that class, for such +teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of sight, hearing, smelling, +tasting, feeling; for such powers of running, climbing, or walking; for +such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of all that nature provides +for her children of the woods. Such health and exemption from disease; +such intensity of existence, in short, must be far beyond the enjoyments +of civilised men, with all that art can do for them; and the proof of this is +to be found in the failure of all attempts to persuade these free denizens +of uncultivated earth to forsake it for the tilled ground. They prefer the +land unbroken and free from the earliest curse pronounced against the +first banished and first created man. The only kindness we could do for +them, would be to let them and their wide range of territory alone; to act +otherwise and profess good-will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the +land without producing a change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that +which took place on man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have +hitherto lived utterly ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or +the utility of ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would, +no doubt, prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to +original sin, even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were +the reflections suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped +on lightly before me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our +party, who, muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in +favour of our pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our +faithful Yuranigh was all that could be wished. He was assiduously +making to the stranger such explanations of our wants and purposes, as +induced him to conduct us in the direction these required. He led us, thus +admonished, over those parts of the country most favourable for the +passage of wheels. The rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts +were covered with most luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a +salt-bush plain, where there was a small pond of water left by the last +rains on a clay surface. There was certainly enough for ourselves and +horses, but it appeared that our guide had greatly underrated the capacity +for water, of our hundred bullocks. For these, however, there was superb +grass to the westward, and a little dew fell on it during the night. +Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9, 77°; +--with wet bulb, 65°. + +<p>20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as +possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather soft, +otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the westward, +and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow belts of +reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great satisfaction to +learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A shallow creek +appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide had expected to +find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently drank up there, +what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He showed us +the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were made to feel, +in common with the aborigines, those privations to which they are +exposed by the white man's access to their country. On proceeding some +miles further, our guide following down the channel, he at length +appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe, on which +Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and there, in +fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in the +attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wámmerawá, +the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and +marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds +may have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from +the "balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan, +Murrumbidgee, and Millewà; the former being a cane or bamboo, the +latter a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found +good grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was +fringed with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little <i>Kochia brevifolia</i> +observed at Mudá on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the +spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the +teams of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been +damaged; the six others were brought up in the course of the evening. +Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 78°;--with wet +bulb, 68°. + +<p>21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back +cattle to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it +might be repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the +journey by 1 p.m. The barometer was going down at a rate which was +alarming enough, considering what our position must have been there in +a flood, or even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward +with the light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 p.m. to +"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again, +he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden +the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water +that night, nor until we could reach the Bàrwan, then distant, I was quite +sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude observed (30° +19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back directions that the +drays should at once halt, taking their places beside the leading dray, and +that the cattle should be driven back in the morning to be watered at the +last camp (Warranb), and then to return and follow in my track. Mr. +Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to serve out a week's +rations to the party with the drays, and he returned to my camp by 2 A. +M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the former messenger, +rations for my party. Here we found the <i>Keraudrenia integrifolia</i>. +Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 105°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 57°. + +<p>22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the +Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more +favourable for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by +drawing lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would +cross and impede my journey to the Bàrwan. There were the Castlereagh, +Morissett's Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct, +which it was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least +fifty miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.] + +<p>An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the +necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in +communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills +which partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was +Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that +some flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we +might therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie. +This, with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made +intelligible to our Bàrwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly. +He took us through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water +usually lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay +happens to be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But +the water in these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled +into hard clay by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first +become sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots, +where nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are +well known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and +such places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by +the most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can +exist apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers. +Cattle find these places and come from stations often many miles distant, +attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus +treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy +the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the +kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more +disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain +every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot" should +appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually happened +to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want of +water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110°. The store-keeper was +taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the fate of +the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep, which had not +drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at that time. It +may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length saw before me +large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when I next +approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours and a +half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and found +that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives dived +into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go completely +under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the united +channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an easy +day's journey only distant from the junction with the <i>Bàrwan</i> or +"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable +amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be +the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their proper +names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were it only +to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the intelligence and +assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by means of the +published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the natives as the +Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wàwill; and the lower part of the +Macquarie, as the Wammerawà. The squatting system of occupation +requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to +commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast +extent, whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach +or control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the +squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police. +Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 110°; at 4 p.m., 107°; at 9, 89°; +--with wet bulb 72°. + +<p>23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence +of them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I +had sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to +send forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought +me word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the +morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him. +They had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the +water, as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was +excessive, a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the +banks of the Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus <i>Scleroloena</i> +was remarked; it was perhaps not distinct from S. <I>Uniflora</I>. The +<i>Goodenia geniculata</i> overran the ground, with its strawberry-like +runners, and yellow flowers. Latitude, 30° 12' 56" S. Thermometer at +sunrise, 75°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb, +62°. + +<p>24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all +night. The drivers brought me word that they had been detached at +twilight to come six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could +not see my track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks +had strayed from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of +delay by the bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey +(thirteen miles) of the Bàrwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days, +and really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers +seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 80°; at 4 +p.m., 85°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°. + +<p>25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the +stray bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a +bullock driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the +track of the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at +sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, +62°. + +<p>26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only +one of the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace +twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the +day; he said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in +with. I blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him +forthwith on foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we +were doomed to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by +carrying on the mapping of our survey, in order to make good our +longitude at crossing the Bàrwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, +94°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62.° + +<p>27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays +this morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed +the party until 10 a.m., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I +reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a +proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such +unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground, +having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about six +miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and said +they called that the "Bàrwan." As it was still a mere chain of ponds, +though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel; he +also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was +convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the +channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the +junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it, +however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after +him, to rejoin the party. + +<p>I this day gave "Yulliyàlly," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe, +tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne, +certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do. +Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 70°; +--with wet bulb, 57°. + +<p>28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp +at 6 a.m., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost +bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came +upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a +stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawà, on which I had been +encamped, joined the Bàrwan, then on my right, within two miles of the +spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr. +Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and +on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna, +Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Bàrwan. I +turned with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Bàrwan, and +encamped thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which +our exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a +good current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like +a river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good +ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had +been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the +cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of +Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which +we had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot +weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*] +Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 101°; at 4 p.m., 100°; at 9, +with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>[* <i>Calotis scapigera</i> (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus +radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis +robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very +distinct species. Habit of <i>Brachystephium scapigerum</i> D. C.: but that +ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in +proportion to the size of the capitulum.] + +<p>1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher +point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or +bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we +found it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot +season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle +stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary +arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed +quite unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length +arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many +rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final outlet +or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch one +might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the same +river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood had +gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast +regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another +instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more +apparent to man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or +attentively examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to +him. The very slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains +seems finely adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this +part of the earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern +coastranges were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of +sustained current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such +inclined channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread +into a net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill +lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous +channel, would at once run off into the ocean. + +<p>[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been +wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as <i>caràwy</i>, which the +name resembles, means any deep water-hole.] + +<p>In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route +with our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have +preferred, and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the +known limits of this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which +the route necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had +not lost time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over +very considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more +desirable to any country we might discover, than one liable to be +interrupted by flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of +our drays, along the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a +new and direct route from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by +way of Bathurst; and afforded access to a vast extent of excellent +pasturage on the Macquarie, along the western margin of the marshes, +which land would, no doubt, be soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a +climate, and where water is so frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found +that the shortest line of route with such advantages would be more +frequented than any longer line, possessing only the remote advantage of +security from interruption by too much water. Thermometer at sunrise, +64°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 81°; with wet bulb, 61°. + +<p>2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyàbry, +(Mr. Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays, +although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better +approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so +attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without +some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I +sent some men to the last-mentioned work. + +<p>I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the rivers +Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains +having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the +Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to +guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a +distance of only seven miles beyond the Bàrwan there at the "Morella +Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain +seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were very +fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously ascertained +to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr. Lindley +<i>Capparis Mitchellii</i>.[*] We found back from this camp the <i>Rutidosis +helychrysoides</i> of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon, +101°; at 4 p.m.; 100°; at 9, 78°; and with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.] + +<p>3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better +approaches to the ford across the Bàrwan at Mr. Parnell's station. +Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and +Darling at our present camp to be 147° 33' 45" E., by actual +measurements connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr. +Kennedy had chained the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had +connected his work with latitudes observed at almost every encampment, +and after determining at various points the magnetic variation, which +appeared to be very steady, I made the latitude of this camp 30° 6' 11" +south. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, +72°; and with wet bulb, 65°. The height above the sea level of the bed of +the river here, the average result of eight observations, as calculated by +Capt. King, was 415 feet. + +<p>4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Bàrwan +at Wyàbry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its +junction with the Bàrwan; there, although the approaches had been well +enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of +which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft +and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which +earth was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived +about noon at Wyàbry, and by 2 p.m. the whole was safely encamped on +the right bank of the Bàrwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from +my son, commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most +favourable account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of +my proposed route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the +hands of a native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr. +Lawson, being then on his way down the river, had promised to send +them to me, from a station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke, +where it had been supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30° +5' 41" S. On this northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in +botany, and found some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of +<i>Senerio brachyloenus</i> D. C., a kind of groundsel; <i>Morgania floribunda</i>, +loaded with purple blossoms, and a variety of <i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i>, +somewhat different in the leaves from the usual state of the species. +Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, +61°.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-07"></a><img alt="" src="trop-07.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter03"></a> +<h4>Chapter III.</h4> + +<blockquote>THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED +BY TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS +OR SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH +THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART +OF SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY +EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND +RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST +RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY +CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT +BANK.--ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH +GRASS ON THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN +RECONNOITRE THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A +NATIVE.--TWO NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH +THE ASSEMBLED POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE +TRIBES.--CORDIAL RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE +CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE +RIGHT BANK OF THE BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, +CATTLE MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DÉPÔT +CAMP AT A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM +SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.</blockquote> + +<p>5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two +natives, brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the +Narran, which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles +we passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the +left, which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of +conglomerate rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains +of quartz cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become +undulating ground as we proceeded northward, and the surface became +firmer. At length the country opened into slight undulations, well clothed +with grass, and good for travelling over, the soil being full of the same +hard rock found on the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the +lowest parts of that river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed +to be but the decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles +of quartz so thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places +so thickly as to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses +grew on those plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm +undulating stony surface and open character of the country, where I had +expected to see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight +elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a +name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations <i>too low</i> to +be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of +route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much +novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The <i>Angophora lanceolata</i> +was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some +very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the <i>Acacia +stenophylla</i> of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such +profusion as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I +supposed it was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another +place many of the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and +learnt from our guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat +resembled that of the Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Mùnumulà is the +native name. The grasses comprised a great variety, and amongst the +plants a beautiful little <I>Brunonia</I>, not more than four inches high, with +smaller flower-heads than those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely +at all lobed, and a hairy indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although +the fruit had been gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, +was also here; and I saw one or two trees of a species of <i>Capparis</i>. Mr. +Stephenson found a great variety of new insects also. + +<p>[* <i>B. simplex</i> (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque +longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus, +bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.] + +<p>Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some +verdant grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; +and here we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds +were called "Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to +pass on towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, +twenty-five miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some +natives running off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we +should do them no harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake +them. The undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and +west in their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general +course of the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in +other parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the +fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much +resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these +springs we found a new <i>Helichrysum</i>.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at +noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 65°. + +<p>[* <i>Helichrysum ramosissimum</i> (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde +ramosum arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis +acutis, capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri +squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.] + +<p>6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the +excessive length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(16½ +miles by latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a +beautiful cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of +fresh branches of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted +home of the fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods +of the acacia already mentioned (<i>Mùnumulà</i>). The water was surrounded +by fresh herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such +the home whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable +guides, I could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon +trample these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding +verdure and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured +but acute guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid +race. + +<p>[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may <i>laugh</i> inwardly--conscience +may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.] + +<p>All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our +drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting +before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be +watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; +and this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward +to ask if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly +exhausted. The fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in +the morning, after passing a night without water, had been adopted, and +as, on the day before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of +reaching my camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly +directed them to be brought forward; but the consequence of this +derangement was the death of one, and much injury to many others. This +contretemps arose wholly from the guides not having been understood at +the Barwan as to the real distance, and this we had calculated too surely +upon. Latitude 29° 52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon, +96°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 68°. + +<p>7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had +been watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 a.m. I left them in +Mr. Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all +the bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that +had been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. +The guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had +understood when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles +from these springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the +country to improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the +most open parts of scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend +clearly how desirable that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after +travelling about seven miles, they pointed to a line of trees as the +"Narran," beyond an extensive open country, which had a singular +appearance from being higher than that we were upon. We crossed one or +two slight elevations wholly composed of compact felspar in blocks +--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of strata, whereof the strike +always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious new plants and fruits +appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of which was a very +pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread over several +yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an elongated egg; +it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the natives +"Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best roasted. As we +approached the elevated country between us and the distant line of trees, +we perceived that the vast level was covered with <i>Polygonum junceum</i> in +a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as I had never seen +elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called it, which looks ever +quite dry and withered along the margins of the Darling. We had good +reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we found amongst it +pure water in great abundance, into which all our native companions +immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This, they said, +was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the name of +Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps. They +seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and pointed +to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran was there. +I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the nearest trees +beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft mud, +precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of +bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now +far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a +position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the +intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare materials +for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a small +clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did not +encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by the +westward, in which direction the open country extended to the horizon. +The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by wet +ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where +horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had +been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water +until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr. +Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward +to the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all +the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays +there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense +heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the +day, rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, +29° 45' 51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 97°; +at 9, 69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea, +the average of five registered observations, is 442 feet. + +<p>8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most +extensive. Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual +appearance there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet +still the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between +that slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been +so scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great +distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no +longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I set +the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the +muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed +it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft, +beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp +came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before us, +which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the southward, +was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual rock, felspar; +and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded the further +progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended north-west, +as most others did in this extensive basin; and this direction being nearly +parallel to that of the coast ranges further northward, seemed to afford +additional reason for expecting to find anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, +consequently, rivers, much in the same direction. D'Urban's group, +distant 150 miles lower down the Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, +exactly similar to this, exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into +irregular polygons, some of the faces being curved. This rock is most +extensively distributed in the interior of New South Wales. It was not +until the evening of this day that the approach of the drays was +announced, and then prematurely, the teams only having been brought +forward to the water without them. So weak were the unfortunate +animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the numbers, could they +be made to draw the drays forward, for the short distance of eight miles; +a distance which we had been given to understand was so much greater. +Forward, all was most promising, and it may be imagined how bitterly I +regretted the alteration of my original plan of equipment, which had +reference to horses and light carts alone. A new species of <I>Anthistiria</I> +occurred here, perfectly distinct from the kangaroo grass of the colony, +very like <i>Apluda mutica</i>, and remarkable for the smooth shining +appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The <i>Trichinium +alopecuroideum</i>, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its long +silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very curious +new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of <i>Cyperus</i>; the <i>Trichinium lanatum</i> +in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed (<I>Calamagrostis</I> of +England), and which proved to be the little-known <i>Triraphis mollis</i>. On +the margin of the morass the <i>Dactyloctenium radulans</i>, spreading over +the interstices, reminded the traveller of the grasses of Egypt; and, in +stony ground near the morass, we observed the <i>Justicia media</i> of Brown. +Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4 p.m. 102°; at 9, 81°; +ditto with wet bulb, 74°. + +<p>[* <i>A. membranacea</i> (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine +membranaceis foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis +pedicellatis (masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ +3plo longiore.] + +<p>[** <i>K. lanosa</i> (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis +cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.] + +<p>9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to +return, and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be +extremely useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went +forward this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our +interpreter, all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine +reaches of water appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to +the northward, but which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, +abruptly terminated like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it +went to, they pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp +as the final depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the +contents of a river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate +so hot and dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which +led us nearly due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on +a good gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing +a slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the +shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we again +came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for +about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and +lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and +with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent +grass. The <i>Panicum loevinode</i> of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a +grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of +paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly for +the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles. I +counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass +only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow +back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a very +open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any other part +of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of the natives; +and these children of the soil were doing every thing in their power to +assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the white man's +cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives during the +whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and I to see +them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and not at all +unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce us to the +inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us further. +The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost to +prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°; at 4 +p.m., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°. + +<p>10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I +continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but +with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide, +through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the +river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc. We +were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no +perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had +examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and +the dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and +banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide +said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp +we kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays. +This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water +our horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us, +under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently +about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of +perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on the +level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very tired, +however, and pointed to the large muscles of the <i>Rectus femoris</i> as if they +pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the drays that +had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring double +teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity of our +camp we found the <i>Trichinium alopecuroideum</i>, with heads of flowers +nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near <i>E. pulverulenta</i>, but having +more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall +glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy <I>Kochia</I> was +intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon, +102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 71°. + +<p>[* <i>H. glauca</i> (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis +oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis apice +aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.] + +<p>[** <i>K. villosa</i> (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus +villosissimis, fructibus glabris.] + +<p>11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, +the tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the +stockman on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that +they had been very useful. I this morning examined the country to the +westward of the swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could +pass, and so avoid much soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the +watery Narran penetrated into the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting +there little hollows full of rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so +unwonted amongst rocks characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one +little hollow, to the westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two +men with a pickaxe and shovel to have continued it through, and so to +have opened a new channel for the passage of the waters of the Narran +swamp, into the dry country between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at +sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, +59°. + +<p>12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the +jaded bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses +I might have continued the journey. The very extensive country before +us, which appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and +irrigated by little canals winding amongst <i>Polygonum junceum</i>. This +open country appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, +thence to turn eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to +the Barwan. I regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to +admit of our tracing its limits to the eastward. + +<p>This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he +strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and +Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river +which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season, +almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was already +on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his account of the +rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged to depend, +even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke. + +<p>This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two +platforms, to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, +could be passed without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the +drays. The sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (<i>Callitris +pyramidalis</i>), found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen +feet long, two feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, +fixed at each end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled +a wooden railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry +both wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was +filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass, +alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to +support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge +or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 107°; +at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°. + +<p>13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays +trundled across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in +the event of an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable +on our return. Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing +over a gravelly bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The +drays were slow in arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft +and hollow, but by sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on +the Narran. Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 100°; +at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea, +according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet. + +<p>14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, +to a distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I +intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five miles, +that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work, might +have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however, again +occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now it +was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It really +seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on +bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until 9 +a.m., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, +after travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found +the fragrant <i>Jasminum lineare</i> in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a +bulb which proved to be the <i>Anthericum bulbosum</i> of Brown; a shrub ten +feet high, in fruit, the <i>Canthium oleifolium</i> of Sir William Hooker; a fine +new <i>Chenopodium</i>, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; +and a hoary variety of <i>Acacia leptoclada</i>, or perhaps a distinct species, +having a good deal of the aspect of <i>A. dealbata</i>, but the leaves and glands +nearer those of <i>A. leptoclada</i>, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer +at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 81°;--with wet +bulb, 75°. + +<p>[* <i>C. auricomum</i> (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto, +foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis +lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris +tomentosis.] + +<p>15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, +that the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without +great difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the +drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a +process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not until +1 a.m. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought to the +camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the field of +discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were +unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive +heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks +unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter +party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate, +leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on +some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south. +Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9, 65°; +--with wet bulb, 60°. + +<p>16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend +of the Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant +grass. The drays arrived by 11 a.m. in such good order, that I was +induced to try whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short +journeys, the party could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I +could leave the whole in one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my +intended ride forward. Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, +43°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 55°. + +<p>17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward +as well as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the +progress of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains +were evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered +wholly impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29' +11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9, +62°;--with wet bulb, 52°. + +<p>18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft +ground; all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising +ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp, +at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual +conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch +in bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly +ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction. +Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, +upon the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris +forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan. +From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a good +direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony ground I +found a new <I>Pittosporum</I> five feet high, with long narrow leaves, in the +way of <i>P. roeanum</i> and <I>Angustifolium</I>, but distinct from both in the form +of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; +at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 61°. + +<p>[* <i>P. salicinum</i> (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis +acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus, fructibus +subglobosis vix compressis.] + +<p>19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, +our course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after +travelling six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for +the drays, but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, +and I contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, +by travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been +marked out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found +a fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five +miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it, I +returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude +observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at +9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we +proceeded in a nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than +we had recently traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found +amongst much excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of +Anthistiria appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, +although this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains +westward of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of +moisture. Here, however, this variety presented the same knotty head, +where other grasses grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme +eastern turn of the Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks +appeared in the bed, as if the river was passing through the stock of the +gravelly ridge I had visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found +about the basin of the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much +felspar, and having pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of +the conglomerate in the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at +the edges. Here the poor natives had been very industrious, as was +evident from heaps of the grass <i>Panicum loevinode</i>, and of the same redstalked +coral-like plant, also mentioned as having been observed in +similar heaps, on the banks of the Darling, during my journey of 1835 +(vol. i. p. 238). I now ascertained that the seed of the latter is also +collected by the natives and made into a paste. This seed was black and +small, resembling fine gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was +sweet and pleasant to the taste, possessing a nutty flavour. + +<p>The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in +these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft +smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil bore +the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and amongst them +those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with the prints +likewise of other <i>bipeds</i>, such as emus and kangaroos, and also those of +the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other animals all +new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man alone were +familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other animals, +simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much afraid of +us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed strange, that in a +climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise, the circumstances +of man's existence should be the most degrading. Latitude of our camp, +29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., +101°; at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The mean elevation above the sea +of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in number, was 477 feet; the +bed of the river being about 15 feet lower. + +<blockquote>[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way<br> + To kailyards green,<br> +While faithless snaws ilk step betray<br> + Whar she has been." <I>Burns</I>.]</blockquote> + +<p>21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming +favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some +traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner +Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded +the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to +his map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with +gently sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances +induced me to cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, +until meeting with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, +where we encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, +56°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°. + +<p>22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the +surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on +Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded +rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At +one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a +ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of +compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which +large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial +decomposition of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them +once more to the action of water. The force of those waters, however, +had not been sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending +right across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, +of a river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and +terminating in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4 +p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515 +feet, from eight observations. + +<p>23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and, +soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land, +almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we +pursued a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the +Narran at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day, +especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small +bush bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among +the sedges by the river we found the <i>Kyllinga monocephala</i>; and, on the +rich black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with +large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small +bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of +Brown's <i>Santalum oblongatum,</i> or a new species distinguished by its +narrow sharp-pointed leaves. The <i>Loranthus lineari</i>. <I>Folius</I> was growing +on the rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by +the parasitical <i>orange loranth</i>.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise, +51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 99°; at 9, 70°;--wet bulb, 63°. + +<p>[* <i>L. aurantiacus</i> (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus, foliis +oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve acuminatis +glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio brevioribus ditrichotomis, +floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis superne latioribus +truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem geniculato, stigmate +dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.] + +<p>24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach +the Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the +Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to the +northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn +towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far +from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary to +descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn +pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we +had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low +range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west, +covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller the +most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached the +Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had +travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it +was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the cattle +should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to lose one +day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals. Casuarinae +now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks of the +Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods we +passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a +different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the +colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be +a broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species. +We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus, +GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having +long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*] The +rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with +yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed +from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed +amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH, +with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the +bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown. + +<p>[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus +pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.] + +<p>[** LORANTHUS LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus acutis +carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus bifloris, +calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6 linearibus supra +basin coalitis.] + +<p>The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked +Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33" +S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet bulb, +62°. + +<p>25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays. +Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate +journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I +found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its +course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges +on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came +from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued +northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed +through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence +descending in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, +and only reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw +a continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river +bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where +the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who +did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from +him, and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a +beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on the +bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back, until +within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of the +party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a species +of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct. The teams +brought the drays in, about 5 p.m.; one animal of all being missing. +Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9, 60°;--with +wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in +search of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and +proceeded along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the +party, having found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late +encampment. The natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having +previously set fire to the grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their +fires, and encamped on the river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S. + +<p>A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow +portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of +withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the +ashes of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass +(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but +constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the +only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired on +our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to +drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both these +kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me one of +their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum, and tied +with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it carefully where +he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., +95°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height above the sea of +the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet. + +<p>27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran, +which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks +after a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the +vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought +by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more +decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses +against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the +plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew +abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of the +POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the +immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an +infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes happened, +other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me to a +distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great novelty to +us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long before we +crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang fruit +(FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed that +we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as the +quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat. 28° +55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 89; at 9, +70°;--with wet bulb, 61°. + +<p>28TH MARCH.--At 2 a.m., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, +where a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops +of rain fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from +S. W. Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly +amongst very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the +westward of my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when +on the other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its +banks after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to +place the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, +managed to prevent him from running away. He spoke only +"Jerwoolleroy," a dialect which my native did not understand at all well. +He told us, however, that this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to +the Balonne. Upon the whole we gathered from him that neither that +river nor the Bokhara was far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, +by Youranigh's assurances, and our own civility to him, that we meant no +harm to any natives, and were only passing through the country. He did +not seem afraid, although he had never, until then, seen white men. We +encamped near him. The river channel was very narrow, and contained +but little water here-abouts. I understood from the native (through +Youranigh) that the river here spread into various channels, and that +"BARRO" was the name of a river beyond the Culg, which falls into it +from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the lagoon on which we encamped +after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near this camp we found a +PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a SESBANIA near +S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM AURICOMUM, +formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high. Thermometer at +sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, +56°. + +<p>29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. +Kennedy forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a +more direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied +by one of the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He +returned in about four hours, having found the river coming from the +northward, and he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer +at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb, 47°. + +<p>30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at +sunrise only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on +over fine grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At +length, about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there +was one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only +see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running north. +We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran, after a +journey of about eight miles. + +<p>We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species +of eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and +other parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at +4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps +of the 27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet. + +<p>31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed +across the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary +to see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not +of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those, +branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main +channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it again. +Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every respect +the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by observing +the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of the current. +We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with some +lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I +wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the +ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where +was the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were +heard immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh +and then to me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other +was a lad of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne +(BALONGO) as quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was +quite evident from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper +native name, but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an +article they very often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in +speaking of the Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed +the usual short journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was +unwilling to lose the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on +under their guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for +the camp. This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them +Tooningora, nearly on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with +ducks. We had passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native +friends, and over a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from +scrub. It was evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I +continued to follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the +party to encamp, in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and +the river Balonne. After going forward thus about four miles, we saw +five gins running off at a great distance across some open plains, +apparently near the river. The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I +requested him to assure them that the white men would do no harm, and +to tell them not to run away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared +to carry unseemly loads across their backs, dangling under large +opossum-skin cloaks, and it was evident that these were mummied +bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but had not before seen it. I had +then but a distant view of these females, as they resumed their flight, and +continued it until they reached woods bounding the plain on the +westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great Balonne river ran parallel +to our march westward, and there also, according to my guides, was +"Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and which spot I most +anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials. Still my guides led +westward towards the woods, and as we approached them, the shout or +scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan, follower of my camp, +first drew my attention to a black phalanx within the forest, of natives +presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my interpreter halted and +remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on his reaching that body, +the sound of gruff voices that arose from it strongly reminded me of +Milton's description of Satan's army:</p> + +<blockquote>"Their rising all at once was as the sound<br> +Of thunder heard remote."</blockquote> + +<p>Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by +the other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those +fellows were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our +footsteps to the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. +Our guide soon overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange +natives, who, all curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they +brought with them a lad named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and +had visited many of our cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to +Youranigh, who but very imperfectly understood the language of the rest. +They seemed upon the whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food +consisted of the fish of the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, +CUCUMIS PUBESCENS, which grew in such abundance, that the whole +country seemed strewed with the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives +eat great quantities, and were very fond. It is about the size of a plum +only, and in the journal of my first interior journey (in 1831), is +mentioned as a cucumber we were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude +of camp, 28° 38' 47" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at +9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. + +<p>1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 a.m., +still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. +On our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy +hollows could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in +due form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party +to halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on +the right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other +women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, +formed a circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to +me. I desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way +across the Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb +them, etc. When all was said that could be said, and I was about to +return, one of the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he +must have learnt at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I +returned the compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. +Soon after, we arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river +as I have seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a +slight current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less +elevated above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel +surpassed that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course. + +<p>We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was +"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the +natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that, +having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the +first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had +gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where +he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered +his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's +conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to +go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe, to +other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without +claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at +such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us +strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts of +civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather rare. He +had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the danger of +sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our introduction by +him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the bullock-drivers, +found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut the banks, and +fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches, and earth, for the +better passage of the drays; a work they completed before night. I rode +about five miles beyond the river to the north-west, and met, first with a +very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level with the plains, and +apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this, a river or chain of +ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained was called the +Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The country was +rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees, and the +plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the Balonne, +28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 79°; +at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the Balonne above +the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three observations. + +<p>2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning +in good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little +bridge we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place +seemed to me so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find +some of the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the +natives on this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks +made by white men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank +of the river, and was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," +the other with "Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was +really at or near the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell +had crossed, and found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles +north-west, I determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that +river, taking my track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad +lagoon. + +<p>On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with +hoop nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He +returned accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, +who had been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his +nets, and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct +us to the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a +detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a +word of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to +overcome the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, +and their shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become +our guide. He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles +from the Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service +and true civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron +tomahawk, and I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for +him to keep. He then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five +miles off. This river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed +than, the one we had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a +principal river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, +except that its waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees +overhang the banks, and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I +should say that these and much sand were the chief characteristics of the +Culgoa. There were no recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed +that they did not much frequent that part of the river. The grass along the +banks was very luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at +sunrise, 39°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, +46°. The height of this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet +above the bed of the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations. + +<p>3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the +banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our +heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day, +however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa. +Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 49°; and +with wet bulb, 46°. + +<p>4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the +Culgoa upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending +along the right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was +favourable to our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in +exploring that river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we +had crossed the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the +south, to this river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and +Fort Bourke. That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, +had the rains set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over +the dry, firm ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the +left bank of the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, +indeed more conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had +fallen at this time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern +interior; but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for +some degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the +Commissioner of the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we +should arrive at a better watered country. + +<p>Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which +grew luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us +of the banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact +counterpart, only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa +was more easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles +northward, I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found +the river. We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch +biting into the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached +the Balonne Major, or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from +the Minor Balonne, both of which we had already crossed, and which ran +thus, as from our camp the lines of trees along each of the minor +channels were distinctly visible. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-08"></a><img alt="" src="trop-08.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The character of these rivers had been described to me by +Commissioner Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the +drays came in, and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, +having been suddenly attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged +in the survey of our route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had +somewhat abated, but still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, +had lately affected many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. +Kennedy. Latitude, 28° 27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon, +83°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°. + +<p>5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of +the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an +angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after +passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded +by a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and +partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I found +this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous course, +impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got through it, +only after contending with these impediments for three miles. The +country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river, and I +turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward two +miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any river; but, +on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was declining, and I +turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction reached an extensive open +forest, beyond which I saw at length the river line of trees. I continued to +ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw our cattle grazing, and the +tents, without having regained first, as I wished, my outward track. On +the bank of the Balonne we found an apparently new species of +ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish flowers, and in the scrub +I passed through, in my ride, I found a CASUARINA, indeterminable in the +absence of flowers or fruit. It produces a gall as large as a hazel nut. +Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 57°; +--with wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not +proceed, as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep +our account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much +galled, and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not +without some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching +a point whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave +the cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an +excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown +regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously +wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or +Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part +of the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the +eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the +Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of +reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to +the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I +therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add +in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings, +whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of +encampment described. + +<p>In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a broadleaved, +white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite, +which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted +species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New +World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on +EXOCARPUS APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and +Frazer on Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 44°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, +57°. Height above the sea, 497 feet. + +<p>[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis +integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis, +fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos +superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-09"></a><img alt="" src="trop-09.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The River Balonne, 7th April</b></p> +</center> + + +<p>7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I +was informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud +on the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was +impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from +having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our +journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track. +Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest +land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length, +even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got +involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of +E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees +of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at +an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the +slopes, we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, +presenting a body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one +other river of Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge. + +<p>This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor +Balonne, came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe +were heard in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, +having left us suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily +ordered him away. I had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at +night on the former occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of +mischief, and could not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We +desired no further intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with +us did not understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose +through that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my +journey fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of +this camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even +now. I had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, +at a time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still +uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled +globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m. 97°; at 9, 69°; +--with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59" +S. (Camp III.) + +<p>8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the +river woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, +at first containing much water, and coming from the north, was +on our right for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks +of three horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if +proceeding first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the +river became dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw +about a mile to the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of +water on a level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of +emerald green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a +longer journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite +water in its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy +margin we saw still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to +drink. The scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. +The ACACIA PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM +OBLONGATUM, and others, gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance +of water about, all hands considered this a very fine country. At sunset, +thunder-clouds gathered in the S. W., and at about 7 p.m. the storm +reached our camp, accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the +S. E. The lightning was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. +By 8 p.m. it was over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of +Regulus, by which the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) +Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 p.m. 94°; at 9, 66°; +--with wet bulb 63°. + +<p>9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, +obliged me to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had +already got further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river +spread into a broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers +having taken no notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where +the carts had been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry +the loads to firm ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this +swamp for many miles, I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed +the burning fires of natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on +trees about. At length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the +main river, where it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and +sweeping round majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after +a long journey. The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large +fishes in it; ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black +swans. This surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that +such an enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else +in New South Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The +Anthistiria grew abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, +28° 13' 34" S. and marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°; +at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains, +fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the +river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris scrubs +were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open and +firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of large +Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and +gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a soft +red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by far the +best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft red sand +being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as mud. At +length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious lagoon, +extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift marks, +that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it as it +trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about that +part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods. That +lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water could +never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon dried up, +which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant in the +bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA +MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97° at +9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 58°. + +<p>[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis, +stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi +angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-pubescentitomentosis, +bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis setaceis, legumine +sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but flowers much smaller, +in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects with the short character +of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is not articulated on the footstalk, +and the stipules exist.] + +<p>11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right +hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully +falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and, +at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it. +This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered +with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being +near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true aboriginal +name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more readily +adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate amongst +rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way about to +my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay across my +intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon the +banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel, +having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very +uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had once +been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the swamp, +the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the opposite +direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently dry. On +crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware that it is +usually at acute angles in a river's course that such overflowings break +out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn eastward, and even to +the southward of east before I could find the river again. At length we +came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand, where the waters +took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents. I was now very +desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to rest and +refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This place did +not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well tasted, and +the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the natives, or by +accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of the Balonne, +and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO +PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader +leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of +ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P. +M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea, of +camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet. + +<p>[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse sinuatoserratis +integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque glaberrimis.] + +<p>12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, +and soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water +and came from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that +had for some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes +that this river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it +maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of +water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the +course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of +the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed, +consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have +been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the +same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite +bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we +established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down +the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage +which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in +latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P. +M., 101°; at 9, 74°;--with wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with +a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the +river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my +hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the +stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of all +in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a pair +of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at +noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 67°;--with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in +the direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P. +M., having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right +when about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the +whole, I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to +travel north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course +of this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher +ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at +9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 67°. + +<p>16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting +water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of infantry +than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded chiefly with +water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were thus prepared +to pass several nights without requiring other water than that we carried +with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the scrubs, and reach, +and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great basin. Our first +day's progress, being rather experimental, did not extend above ten miles. +I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse, and exchange him for a +better, as our load of water was heavy. The day was very sultry. +Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed over ground +more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 p.m., 105°; at 9, 71°;--with wet +bulb, 67°. + +<p>17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being +my own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got +forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they +could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none +was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous, +and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course; +and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar indication +of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the white-barked +gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of river trees, +we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After completing +about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses, where there was +a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from our stock. The +mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at all higher than +our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore, not improbable +that we might meet with some other channel or branch of that prolific +river. After resting two hours we continued, passing through woods +partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub. Towards the +end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good grass, and +having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of the character of +the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very large +kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks numerous. +We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a grassy spot +surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA of Banks, +and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable whiteness +appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which, on very +close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On the plains +the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose from its +very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at sunrise, +71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;--with wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to +specimens of this brought to England:-- + +<p>"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell +(or rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does +not allow me to say much about the insect by which they are formed. +It is an extremely beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I +have yet seen, and is, I have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It +is of a very peculiar form, resembling a very delicate, broad, and +flattened valve of a bi-valve shell, such as the genus Iridina, the +part where the hinge is being a little produced and raised, and forming +the cover of the coccus which secretes the beautiful material just +in the same unexplained way as the scale insects form the slender +attenuated scales beneath which they are born. I could not discover any +insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas Mitchell's production in a +state sufficient to determine what it really is, as I only found one or two +exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up insects. It is extremely brittle, +and looks more like dried, white, frothed sugar than any thing else."] + +<p>18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. +N. E. direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed +that water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the +other horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I +found some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and +which evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were +then dry. Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall +of rain water would remain there some time. On riding two miles +beyond, in the same direction, I found open forest land only. The country +was well covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We +again proceeded north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, +however, only soft red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses +drawing the watercart. + +<p>On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different +kind of country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or +still more loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, +and the trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. +Instead of grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I +afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown +bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike +leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the firstmentioned +plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in +passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some +birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They +descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and +seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp +one fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my +whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as +those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and +dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage, +especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the +Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the +DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the +sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them elsewhere. +The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much distressed. I +continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a scrub in a clay +hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country with more of the +soft red sand. The people with the cart could not overtake me, and I +returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I determined to encamp at +some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our line, in latitude, 27° +43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the barometer, we had not +ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river, at a distance of nearly +forty miles from it. I had just quitted my horse's back, and had resolved +to return, when two horsemen were seen approaching along our track. +They were two of our party come from the depôt to bring me a despatch, +which had been forwarded by Commissioner Wright, communicating the +news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port Essington, and enclosing the +Gazette with his own account of his journey. Thus it became known to us +that we could no longer hope to be the first to reach the shores of the +Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise, 62°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, +71°;--with wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode +forward along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, +until the cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite +exhausted by the heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; +at noon, 86°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 59°. + +<p>20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having +been ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our +tired animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited +quantity of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh +horses about half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of +another light cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage +towards the head of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, +95; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 58°. + +<p>21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 a.m. The morning was +cloudy, for the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three +or four days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have +explored by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great +river, the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I +had just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, +had it been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, +whatever it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 60°; +--with wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the +temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial +column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated +party engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of +our late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the +colony lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E. +direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as he +went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne, +during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a +new creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. +Bentham has named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon, +76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of +this camp above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623 +feet. + +<p>[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis +pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis +elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus +approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine +molliter villoso.] + +<p>[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis subangulatis, +phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late obovatis summisve +linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis v. oblique +mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis uninervibus +tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris solitariis +subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus truncatis, +legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and possibly a +mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably broader, and +the inflorescence different.]</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-10"></a><img alt="" src="trop-10.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to St. George's Bridge</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter04"></a> +<h4>Chapter IV.</h4> + + +<blockquote>ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS +AND DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER +JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE +THE BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO +THE EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE +NORTH-WEST--AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT +COUNTRY FOR GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE +NORTHWARD.--NATIVES AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT +INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY +DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT +BINDÀNGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER "AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF +A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A +GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER +DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS +ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A +DEPÔT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN +INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER +NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE +EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP +VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY +WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE +CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN +ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPÔT CAMP ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.</blockquote> + +<p>23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight +men, two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three +light carts with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to +penetrate northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the +division of the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view, +to trace upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to +the north-westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west, +and thus acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the +watershed towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to +follow my track with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out +on Monday, the 4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks' +rest. + +<p>The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or +hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each +side. I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river. +Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub; but +came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque. +Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm +clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the +river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27° 56' 12" S. +There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long islands of +sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The bed, in +most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous conglomerate, or +clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass was excellent +and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick scrub crowned +these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my examining the +other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the ENOCARPUS +SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the beautiful +parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of Eucalyptus. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at 9 p.m., 47°;--with wet bulb, 41°. +[* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals those +afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the +main body.] + +<p>24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction +was N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild +and very fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of +water, in wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that +sometimes moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines +were wild, the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still +inclined as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted +finely with erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with +perpendicular rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown, +contrasted most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey +driftwood, blue water, and verdure by its margin; all these again +--grass, verdure, driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark +hues of the Casuarinae, Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a +Gains-borough, might there have found an inexhaustible stock of +subjects for their pencil. It was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.</p> + +<blockquote>"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air,<br> +And scarce a human image plac'd he there."</blockquote> + +<p>May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we +may also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their +sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be +brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine +perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy +margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by +scrub. At length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see +along each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up +that nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of +natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was +grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain." +This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but +finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at +length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I +could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river; marks of +high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other. It might, +and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but this seemed +too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed it, to look for +the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain bounded by trees that +looked like those along the river. No time could be spared for further +reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for the nearest part. +My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in following the +various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen miles beyond the +point where I met with this river, that I reached the bank of the other, at a +spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had quitted it. This was only +accomplished at forty minutes after 4 p.m., when we had travelled +twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was likely, if followed by Mr. +Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay and inconvenience, I +resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the subject, explaining how +he could most readily fall into my track by crossing the other channel, +quitting first the other track, at a spot to be marked by Graham, who took +the letter. Nevertheless, it had been imperative on me to follow it up as I +had done; because, whether as a separate tributary or an ana-branch only, +the right bank was likely to suit us best, provided only that water could +have been found in its bed. Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of +Linnaeus, with its spikes of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also +the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM. Lat. 27° 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 38°; at 9 p.m., 59°;--with wet bulb, 56°. + +<p>25TH APRIL.--</p> + +<blockquote>"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers,<br> +And heavily in clouds brings on the day."</blockquote> + +<p>A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a +contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy, +and Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of +the other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my +track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in +an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and +buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks +on trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to +examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the +day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and, +in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible +difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise, +65°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 63°. Mean +height above the sea, 586 feet. + +<p>26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depôt camp +at 1 p.m. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind +from the west arose about 3 p.m. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, +78°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the +north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from +the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I +determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and +water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of +the first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after +following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode +northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten +minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I +could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27° 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, +37°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 55°. + +<p>28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river +bed like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here +broke through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S. +W., it seemed probable that the general course from above might be +parallel to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches +large, full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant +grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered +with the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a +delicate grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also +here observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W., +and whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel +northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again, +cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its +course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have +rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during +the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had +been in England during the same month. Latitude 27° 32' 37" S. The +direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long +sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered +available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface +of the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river, +attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor +features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they +had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at +4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb, 46°. + +<p>29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into +gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent +me from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or +pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy +margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all +seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I +was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress +along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I +could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in a +gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge like +that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday, doubtless the +product of the late rain, and probably from these clay gullies. After a +circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow over-looking +much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies, but could +easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we encamped +as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27° 28' 27". One +of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree, discovered vast plains +in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river line pursuing a northerly +course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung over what he supposed to +be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°; +with wet bulb, 44°. + +<p>30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came +upon open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the +rugged gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north, +with sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all +fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the +river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a high +scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large +lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see. +It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native +huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27° +20' S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our +youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m., +65°; at 9, 43°. + +<p>1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the +river, we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground +broken into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin +of this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage +elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it, +we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and +could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards +northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains, +bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw still +the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the +cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us +improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward, +with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W. +From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains extending +before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low rise to the +N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each containing +deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the river; +we encamped near it, in latitude 27° 15' 4" S. As we approached this +spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off +--Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own. +I endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made +off, setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts +might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length +come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, p.m., +48°;--with wet bulb, 46°. + +<p>2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were +now upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by +which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small +tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the westward, +while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst plains, +reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was the +principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather +difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses +lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the +water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable +breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the +woods back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's +bed, but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we +could have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river, +passing close to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next +change of the river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the +receding bergs guided me, even when only seen at a considerable +distance, in shaping my course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I +travelled far along a grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing +water like chrystal, and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western +shore consisted of shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated +on its eastern extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N. +W., we at length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous +channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more +like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus +waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of +the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just +beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were +erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open +iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather +peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also +undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we +were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77°, also a hill to +the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333°), he saw +also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9 +P. M 57°; mean height above the sea, 694 feet. + +<p>3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and +we perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the +morning. Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party +bearing a green branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to +our tents. One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite +absorbed in observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently +overcome all their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and +without any kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With +steady fixed looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances, +what passed in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages. +On the contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look +of good sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence, +could we but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor +did they show any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the +smallest of which might have been of use to them. There must be an +original vein of mind in these aboriginal men of the land. O that +philosophy or philanthropy could but find it out and work it! Yuranigh +plied them with all my questions, but to little purpose; for although he +could understand their language, he complained that they did not answer +him in it, but repeated, like parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same +manner, they followed me with a very exact repetition of English words. +He, however, gathered from them that the lake was called "Turànimga," +this river "Cogoon," a hill to the eastward "Toolumbà," etc. They had +never before seen white men, and behaved as properly as it was possible +for men in their situation to do. At length we set out on our journey, and +in mounting my horse, which seemed very much to astonish them, I +made signs that we were going to the mountains. + +<p>Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The +deep ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was +small, in comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed +to say we had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers." +Malga scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of +these forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that +impervious sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making +straighter cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was, +however, now rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a +tributary to the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us, +pursued a tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29° and +27°, coming round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last +three days we had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of +north-west; in which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect +that we should soon find mountains. + +<p>As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded, +with Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw +through the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I +perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the +south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the northeast, +like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight to me +then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west, the object +of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had before seen +these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still +undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this hill +Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from +its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was +felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat. +27° 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9 p.m., +45°;--with wet bulb, 43°. + +<p>4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these +scenes of primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or +GYMNORHINA, the organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller +bird, whose notes, resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the +only sounds that met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such +sounds in other climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning +in this. "The rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the +perfume of the shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and +the tints and tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The +light red tints of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the +white stems of the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early +morning, still slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in +the most pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally +fine, from the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate +willow-like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees, +the mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there +is a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most +brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter +morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are +equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the +savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from +thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence. + +<p>Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had +seen whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found +myself on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest, +so that I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges +clothed with dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and +descended towards a fine open country, on which pigeons were +numerous, and traces of natives. It was also sloping to the northward, and +I had no doubt that we had passed into a valley which I had observed +yesterday from Mount First View, and had supposed it contained a larger +river. In the open ground, I found a small rocky knoll which I named +Mount Minute. From its summit, I recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing +128° 30'. We next passed through some scrub, and came to a hollow full +of Acacia pendula. Following this down we arrived at a chain of ponds, +and these led to an open grassy valley, in which we found our old friend, +the river, still pursuing, steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along +the bank, for a mile or two, we found that these now consisted of fine +open forest flats; and at length encamped on the margin, after a journey +of about twelve miles. Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite +bank, first standing in mute astonishment, then running away. I held up a +green bough, but they seemed very wild; and, although occasionally seen +during the afternoon, none of them would approach us. We found on the +banks of this river, a purple-flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*] +Lat. 26° 57' 39" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, +37°;--with wet bulb, 34°. + +<p>[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis alternis +oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo longioribus, +floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.] + +<p>5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession, +colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19° E., +yet the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air, +seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme +cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the +opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a +higher temperature than 100° F., that any degree under that felt +refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was still +very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly bends; +from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with ponds and +hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM ACRE. +Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these, and +the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive +and open as we ascended this channel,--leading so directly where we +wished to go. + +<p>Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub, +but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with +callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through. I +rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from +Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be +removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond, +there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of +felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular +polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and +W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26° 54' 16" S. It was only +during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any +indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than that +of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the difference +was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or seven +millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the sea +being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m., 67°. + +<p>6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the +slopes less abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a +mixture of sand, at a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it +occupied a section of considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards +between bank and bank. On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest +land, Youranigh drew my attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of +trees, which he showed me had been deposited there by floods. As they +were of a growth and size quite disproportioned to other trees there, I +was convinced that they were the debris of floods; and, consequently, +that a vast body of water sometimes came down this channel. This native +was taciturn and observant of such natural circumstances, to a degree that +made his opinion of value in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which +of two channels, that might come both in our way, might be the main +one; thus my last resource, when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el +parecer," as they say in Spain, of this aboriginal, and he was seldom +wrong. At length, the cheering expanse of an open country appeared +before us, and a finely shaped hill, half-covered only, with bushes. On +reaching an elevated clear part, I saw extensive downs before me. The +river turned amongst woods to the eastward, and I continued on our route +to the north, sure of meeting with it again, as some fine forest ridges +hemmed in the valley to the eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned +(which I named Mount Inviting), there was a curious red cone some +miles to the westward, crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to +plant my theodolite. After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of +Acacia pendula which gradually changed to an open forest, within which +I met with a chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26° 46' S. I +immediately set out, with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red +Cap, distant from our camp about six miles. This little red cone had a +very singular appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark +tinted scrub of flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of +which the light and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy +plain. I found the red rock to be the common one of the country, in a +state of decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal, +whose tracks had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling +us to lead our horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an +extensive view of the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood +to the verge of the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of +picturesque form, and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the +direction whence we had come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more +continuous ridges; and, towards the extremity of them, I could just +recognise Mount First View, this being one of the distant cones I had +seen from it. I took as many angles as the descending sun permitted, and +then retraced our horses' tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, +20°; at 9 p.m., 47°. Height above the sea, 747 feet. + +<p>7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open +forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula, +in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward, +now anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we +found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds +skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my +ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge. +From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little +wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the +centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good +pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to +follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from +the west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open +downs, and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in +neither of which could we find any water, and had consequently to return +to the last of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country +towards the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26° 42' 27" S., +thankful that we had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and +to discover so fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer, +at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°. + +<p>8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21° in my +tent, a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated +from my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not +frozen, neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour; +pigeons cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The +business of the day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open +country to the westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a +higher branch of the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could +not be deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the +range to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in +about two hours we came upon the identical river we had so long +followed up. It was accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had +its rounded bergs; reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left +bank. Crossing it I rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs, +in hopes to obtain a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found +that to be impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an +elevated north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it +beheld the finest country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A +champaign region, spotted with wood, stretching as far as human vision, +or even the telescope, could reach. It was intersected by river lines from +the north, distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass +arose in the midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W. +and N. E. direction, as to deserve the name of a range. + +<p>A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S. +E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that +variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks of +a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole +country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton +Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an +elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend +the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to +near the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by +rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear +leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I +was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater, +although the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes +there were different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me, +seemed chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by +no means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in +Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around them. +Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The trunk +bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the diameter at the +ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches above. These were +small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole tree looked very +odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that I was convinced +this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A still more remarkable +specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in the apex of a basaltic +peak, in the kind of gap of the range through which we passed on the +15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying drawing.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-11"></a><img alt="" src="trop-11.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</b></p> +</center> + +<p>These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like +hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*] +Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the +rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly +covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even +after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau, so +thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward +towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down +than that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the +Cogoon, I passed between the two summits, and found a good open +passage to the westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise, +20°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°. Height above the sea 1043 +feet. + +<p>[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of +Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with +respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it +more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These +are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate, mucronate, +smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and lined with a +thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also closely covered +with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold the seeds together +firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the upper half of the seed, +whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining, smooth, and marked with a +brown nipple, the remains of the foramen. Within the primine lies the +bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite loose, and seems as if it were +independent of the primine. Eventually the end of the thin brittle primine +breaks like an eggshell and the secundine falls out. The seeds +themselves, remaining attached to each other and to the follicle, resemble +six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half a dozen brown +eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young have escaped +through the point. + +<p>Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir +Henry T. De la Beche, as president of a Society which has greatly +encouraged him in his Australian researches; and in honour of a science +which has occasionally thrown some light on his dark and difficult path. +It may be scientifically described as follows:-- + +<p>DELABECHEA.</p> + +<p>CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ... +STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longè stipitati, intus +stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili +cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita, inter +se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINÂ laxâ, tenui, fragili, apice +foramine incrassato notatâ, SECUNDINÂ crustaceâ, demum liberâ chalazâ +magnâ circulari notatâ. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria. + +<p>DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS. + +<p>ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM +album, laxum, mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate) +maximis faciem internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis +medullaribus tenuibus equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata, +integerrima, in petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia, +subtus pallida et quasi vernice quâdam cinereâ obducta. INFLORESCENTIA +axillaris, trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque +tomentosus. + +<p>The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is +soft, and brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very +large tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half +across; they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When +boiling water is poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly, +resembling tragacanth, is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass; +iodine stains it brown, but not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No +doubt the nutritious quality of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is +apparently of the same nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree +of Sierra Leone (STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA). + +<p>It is not a little remarkable that +the barrel-like form of the trunk should be almost exactly paralleled by +another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the +Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It seems, however, that a tendency +to a short lumpish mode of growth is common among the order, as is +indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which is almost as broad as it is +long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-Cottons of tropical America. +--J. L.] + +<p>9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19° in my tent this morning, yet +no ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that +branch of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for +Mr. Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two +miles to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench +cut across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter +for Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which +might have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track +from the south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the +direction of the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a +due north line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for +our river, as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and +the woods quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The +watercourse, soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and +these at last were found to contain no water, when we had completed our +day's journey. Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still +distinguish my rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the +general direction of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W. +We were still much to the southward of the line so observed, +apprehending, as I did think then, that some tempting plains might take +us too far along some western tributary. Riding in search of water, I +perceived a column of smoke to the northward; and, taking the party in +that direction, we found, in the first valley we fell in with, a chain of +ponds, and in one of these water enough for our use, whereupon I gladly +encamped. This day we discovered a new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark +in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude, 26° 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P. +M., 74°; at sunset, 63°. Height above the sea, 1299 feet. + +<p>[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis +breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis reticulatovenosis, +nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris +axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.] + +<p>10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land. +The sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the +open country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the +scenery, and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a +level woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country +from any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is +every thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water, +when in the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went +forward this morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of +our friendly river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some +of its highest sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain +before us, over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a +dry bushy hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have +encamped, I perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of +it, which was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more +readily I got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down. +This, opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The +welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the +water-course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains, +gracefully fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I +crossed a bare grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw +luxuriant white trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same +colour (PSITTACUS GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water, +beside which we encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a +beautiful Loranthus, which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly +discovered by the indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now +described by Sir William Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28°; at 4 P. +M., 76°; at 9, 38°;--with wet bulb, 34°. + +<p>[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis +oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis +tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis +axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis +nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis +linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were +subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.] + +<p>11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with +axes, and one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with +thick scrub interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way +almost any where. I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on +throwing down a few of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view +over the country to the northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain. +Beyond these, valleys, also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one +side to the S. E., on another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a +rather elevated tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain +with a range just dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley +descending towards the N. W., seemed to me to be the head of a river +likely to pass through a remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the +view did not extend. To the westward a woody, and rather level country +appeared, from which I thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs +between them, descending towards the N. W. river. + +<p>Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my +theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise, that +the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I stood, and +that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still, the only +greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due north. +Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass through? +Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern and +southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident from +columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral +ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward. +That was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found +an interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I +resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the +remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them +much resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and +returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found +eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my +absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a +tomahawk to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little +could be understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his. +We did, however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned +from, was "Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyègo; +and the ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped, +"Tagàndo;" all very good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at +once in my notes and map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre, +and had a few feathers of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their +foreheads and beards. These simple decorations gave them a splendid +holiday appearance, as savages. The trio who had visited us some days +before, were all thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and +their white teeth, constantly visible, shone whiter than even the +cockatoo's feathers on their brows and chins. Contrasted with our +woollen-jacketted, straw-hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care, +it seemed as if nature was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of +the sons of art. Sun never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than +these children of nature appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine +powerful fellow, whose voice sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if +his very whisper might be heard half a mile off. The old man remained +by our fire all night; the others who, as I understood, were all his sons, +had departed about 11 p.m., having left their gins in the vicinity. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 35°. + +<p>12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river +flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount +Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found +the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a river, +with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short +way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from +one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from +which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This +water was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to +which I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to +expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; +at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height +above the sea, 1168 feet. + +<p>13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party +crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet +above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy +downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two +knolls projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode +to one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was +the first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from +their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains +Bindango and Bindyègo, which I had not leisure to examine then, also +consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one hundred +yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with trees +wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely, CALLITRIS +PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next descended to a +separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the north-west. Instead +of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been doing, and finding +them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main channel, we were now to +follow one downwards, with the prospect of finding it to increase as we +proceeded. The relief from the constant apprehension of not falling in +with water was great, as each day's journey was likely to show additional +tributaries to our new found river, and, of course, to augment the supply. +The old native at Tagàndo, had pointed much to the north-west, +frequently repeating the word "MARAN;" whether that was, or what was, +the name of this river, remained to be ascertained. A sweet breeze from +the N. W. met us as we descended the slopes, and thus it was that white +men first passed in that direction, "AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA." +Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 43°. +Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet. + +<p>14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I +crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the +country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the time +I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap. We +passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we +had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before +me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in +that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass, and +wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me, +however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had +thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been +called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in +advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went +forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We +found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which +was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all +to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to my +native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the +tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He +handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to +examine my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that +convinced him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the +river was called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then, +for the first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that +this might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu +as civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I +perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing +more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild +tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the +tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a +thought which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart +upon our goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to +desist from his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way, +contrive to cheek the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a +loud whisper of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was +no music in this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous +sandstone, whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the +eastward. A gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which +was steep towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone) +afforded me a view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about +it. I perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the +country was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed +marked out by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and +watercourses fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still +the country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills, +clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and dells +between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot of the +finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of route, to +the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we wanted water, +but on following a little channel about a mile downwards, we found in it +a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further down this +channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of my newly +discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I was almost +convinced that it would have brought me into this very country, had I +come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26° 17' 8" S. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 35°; at 4 p.m., 80°; at 7 p.m., 71°; at 9, 48°. Height above the +sea, 1150 feet. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-12"></a><img alt="" src="trop-12.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The black awaiting the white</b></p> +</center> + +<p>15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning, +to natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp. +Some time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped, +with head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside +my after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big +savage of yesterday. + +<p>Hamlet might here have exclaimed--</p> + +<blockquote>"What a piece of work is man!<br> +... ..... how infinite in faculties!<br> +In form and action how like a <i>quadruped</i>!<br> +In apprehension, how like a <i>devil</i>!"</blockquote> + +<p>There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be +the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This +savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were +concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had +been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably, +drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in +the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet +whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted, +expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud +JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp. My +horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different +direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know +either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity of +frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other +way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree, +with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and +Yuranigh, both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill, +whence I found that a great number had just retired, leaving even their +opossums still roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief +interval, by rapid strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard +their shouts in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate +retreat--aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing +behind some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with +the business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a +low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of +black ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so +that it might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it +on the south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to +give birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we +were encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the +Bottle tree, represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this +range, and in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the +country westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a +watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and +dry ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the +commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this +downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew +our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a +pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and the +ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently in the +same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to bring +forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the country +beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and the +country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, +38°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 43°. + +<p>[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature +behind a tree.] + +<p>16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the +carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively on +the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque, +while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more +importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along +the creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find +water at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26° +15' 24" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 49°. Height +above the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256 feet. + +<p>17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I +could move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone +ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it would), +to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping +valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were +clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and +found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height +afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to +be chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon, +and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the +course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat. I +descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could find +no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine grassy +flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising ground, on +the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the inhabitants of +the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek turning +towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious open +flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our further +progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I +perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards it, +observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching a +large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below +these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the +blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond +that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm +footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it +went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully +as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N. +to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far on +our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with other +streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course +downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just +deserted, the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left +suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp +under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its +final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research. +I returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a +permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 78°; +at 4 p.m. 75°; at 9, 49°. + +<p>18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to +trace, with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays +coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the +country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well +covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to +the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap +behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we +had descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we +had just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I +sought a good position for a depôt camp on the newly-discovered river, +and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W., +overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and +having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and +firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke +and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as +much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being +removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the +kangaroos come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this +camp, 26° 12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9, +57°. + +<p>19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any +apprehensions about leaving sufficient water for the party who were +following us; and I had recently obtained many angles I wished to put +together, in order to learn the character of the country, which required +much study. That I should have overlooked an extensive country, without +perceiving any indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at +my feet, seemed a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of +its ultimate course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the +chief elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount +Red Cap, Bindango, and Bindyègo, to the high ranges nearer the coast. +That the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby), +and flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of +basaltic rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango +and the northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side, +and that the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered. +Where was the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters +were full of fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 65°. + +<p>20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded +us some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration +during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a +sudden change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during +the journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48°. F. Yuranigh +contrived to catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of +the rivers in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could +belong to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at +noon, 48°; at 4 p.m., 45°; at 9, 45°. + +<p>21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me +to ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west, +in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the +river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests, +and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too +loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three +channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in +ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass +(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees +being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind, +but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly +on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as +they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally +strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions, +such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this +summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the +highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80 +miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line of +smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and +others to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon +presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded +from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level +horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap +was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye +ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending +eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote +distance; in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives. +I returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had +observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore, still +look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that, for the +heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the river, +resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west of it. +They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an +extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken +into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at +noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 30°. + +<p>22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20°; +and in the open air, at 12°. The river was frozen, and the grass was white +with hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I +resolved to form a depôt with our drays and heavy equipment here, and +to await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot +was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy +with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the +character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive +that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I +was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing +the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand. +It was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to +remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when +horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a +conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., +55°; at 9, 27°. + +<p>23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and +to receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of +ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great +height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further +course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp; +and, in awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With +this view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it +from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I +ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without difficulty, +or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the western +side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent gradual, +through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the Yarra +gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the ACACIA +CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA +MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark, +and stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh; +who remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney. +But deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the +direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length, we +approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but +quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I +turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it +pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going +far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this +interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the +furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward, +extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river +would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance +from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of +their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I passed +this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing our +guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that they +had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the river +bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19° and 20° +F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough to +have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under +such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them, these +human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of +their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild +state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I +was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished to +learn the original name of this interior river, and something about its +course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these, its +original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also taught +me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 12°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 56°; at 9, 32°. + +<p>24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about +two miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already +mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great +distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last +evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly +waving my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and +several others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a +similar manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man +on horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the +summit, grew the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood, +that I was obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree +on the summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of +platform on the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there +appeared some open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its +apparent course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., +67°; and at 9, 30°. + +<p>25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if +possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some +knowledge of the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my +work was a conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the +projecting extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range), +and that its basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the +sandstone cliffs on this side. But the course downwards still remained a +question, which diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper +course to come from where it was my wish to go. I resolved, +nevertheless, while thus awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my +ride of the 23RD MAY, and ascertain whether it could turn westward under +the southern cliffs, the only direction in which it was likely to be +available to us, downwards, at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17°; at +noon, 70°; at 4 p.m. 68°; and at 9, 38°. + +<p>26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I +retraced my former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the +dry river bed, where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone +gullies, where one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to +pursue; and this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open +forest of iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of +the same felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan +basin; the soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard +leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and, +further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue +distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually +accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search +of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on +a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA +PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best kinds +of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good +pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile +beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as +we could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to +find the river, and the rocky country over which we had come. +Westward, the downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated +conical hills,--the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing +westward like a limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that +barrier the river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the +river, I found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five +miles further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs, +but I saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally +amid the long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of +native inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we +hastened back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which +happened to be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 72°; at +4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 44°. + +<p>27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I +had seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak +appeared to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W., +and in that expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately +recognised two of my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo +miles respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous +range on the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined +to be only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only +westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a +long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as +accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in +sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and +although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at the +far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more probable, +from the general slope of the country, that it was only another tributary +coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who alone +stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate of the +rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not to be +found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me +know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it +been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then +that it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked +much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the +twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land +around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of +the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and +vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least +there seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer +of nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its +sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from +that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in that +direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill overlooking +that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable geological +friend. We reached the dépot camp in the evening, and found all well, +only that a very tall and powerful native had been reconnoitring our +position during the day, from various trees commanding a view of it; +probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always happened to +be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party was absent, +as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 79°; at 4 +p.m., 68°; at 9, 59°; with wet bulb, 50°. + +<p>[* Probably the Nive. See <i>infra</i>.] + +<p> +28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect +more points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate +country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying down +points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I gain a +satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however, I was +convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depôt camp, +was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey. The +arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important +desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and +continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil +beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy +drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly +time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and +other obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my +reconnoissance northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen +miles, and bearing 27½° E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 47°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 79°: at 9, 65°. + +<p>30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of +excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit +consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was +much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of +those remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had +since seen them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'- +back crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other +heights. The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and +only sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same +kind, a very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality, +seems to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the +kangaroo is remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I +am sure, remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood +being so light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or +tomahawk, might live by the side of one without other food or water; as +if nature in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary +places, had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must +contain a great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to +contain as much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great +number of seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds; +and, from the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a +bird on a rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of +this tree may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds +being the favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed +probably requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may +grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and +satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to +the southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount +Lonsdale): the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in +the S. W.; and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward, +beyond which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were +just visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's +course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing, +and the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such +occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from +the N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or +towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected +various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus +connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango, +Mount Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some +almost clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and +seemed to be also connected with those stretching towards Bindango, +and separating the basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country. +A hill similar to that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the +interior side of it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The +valley at the base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA; +and there was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped +not long before, but in which no water then remained. + +<p>[* A new genus, since named <i>Delabechea</i>.] + +<p>On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left it +in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing, each, +several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by two +females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under +arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to +the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures +motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before +the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal +speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses. +Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they +advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at +a distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned +round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that +vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old +soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first +sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon +after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to +approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest +following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite +with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he +continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities, +and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also, +by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial +description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the +white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a +spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the +one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the +other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed +more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above, +the other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more +remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave strict +orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be allowed +to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the natives; that no +ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there. Nothing could be +more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor more courageous +than his appearance before our more numerous party, with his spears and +open defiance; and I was determined to take every precaution to avoid a +collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during our probably long +residence here, our people from doing them any harm. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 22°; at noon, 60°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 31°. + +<p>1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded +from the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach +of the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line; +and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health. +The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again +proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depôt here. +Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him, +for twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from +the N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of +Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their +attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is +from his own notes:--"At 1 p.m., an old native, accompanied by five +younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and +when within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably +their chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest. +Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received +here, that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve +that good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance, +according to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green +bough, and endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of +no avail, I presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of +bread. After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand, +and taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence +they had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid +them farewell. As the others still remained in <i>statu quo</i>, I went through +the same ceremony with them until they were all on their path +homewards. Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I +flattered myself that I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that +we did not wish them beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at +4 p.m. a large number of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and +children, came boldly up and encamped within a few yards of the tents, +and two hundred more were reported to me by Mortimer as being at a +short distance in their rear. I gave strict orders that no man should go +near them, and I mustered the party myself at 8 p.m. Shortly afterwards, +three or four natives came down to our fires, and on the men saying that +they would not be made to leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and +shewed them their own camp. One tall young native in particular, +wearing an opossum cloak, exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I +continued to watch their movements until half-past eleven, p.m. up to +which time they were talking very earnestly, continually repeating the +words "white fellow." I had not retired to my tent five minutes when I +heard Baldock (one of the two men on watch) several times desire the +natives to go back, who, as it appeared, would insist on coming forward +to our fires. Serjeant Niblet then called me, saying he thought "all was +not right," that the natives refused to keep away, and that he had seen the +fire sticks of others approaching from several directions. On turning out, +I found them making a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of +our tents, and the grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their +mischievous work. I called to them in the language of some of the +aborigines, to go away quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but +seeing that they still drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger +of the camp, I desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their +arms, to charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received +orders. We succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm, +one or two shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I +had given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind +them, all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them +that we had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the +cattle brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning +watch, and no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of +the treacherous nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic +of the aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct +of our neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was +likely to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit +that position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr. +Kennedy to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could +not keep pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so +numbered, the others marked being those where his party had passed the +night. This depôt camp was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such +others of mine as have been marked between this and VIII., shall be +added to this journal, and the whole marked on the map. A new species +of CALLITRIS appeared among the trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the +large leaved variety of ACACIA DECORA, further removed than usual from +the common form, and approaching, in some respects, to A. RUBIDA. +Among the bushes was the beautiful little A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its +little heath-like leaves, and among the grasses was remarked an +abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with extremely minute flowers.[*] +Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 30°. + +<p>[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligulâ nulla nisi squamulâ +quâdam, paniculâ effusâ ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque +scabriusculis, paleis truncatis alterâ 3-nervi alterâ binervi.] + +<p>2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over +two of the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of +the journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration +of flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of +mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I +now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring +carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd, +formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to +this point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner +Mitchell, accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such +passages as the following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir +Thomas Mitchell now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We +understand the intrepid Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition +to the Gulf, keeping to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not +very encouraging to us, certainly; but we work for the future. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 30°. + +<p>3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river, +which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus +tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It is +therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr. Wm. +M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the Barwan. +The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed to +be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was +thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr. +Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily +watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle +at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate +protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very +particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be +allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use +them very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible, +respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise, +16°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 34°.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-13"></a><img alt="" src="trop-13.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter05"></a> +<h4>Chapter V.</h4> + +<blockquote>CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE +FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR +BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE +TRIBE.--HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER +FROM THE WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE +N.W.--DETERMINE TO FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE +ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL +ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH +SCRUBS, AND OVER SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE +MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE. +--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE +RIVER WARREGO DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT. +--MOUNT FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE +NOGOA.--COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF +SCRUB, IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN +DOWNS.--BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT +MUDGE.--LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.</blockquote> + +<p> +4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. +Kennedy adieu, for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my +party and light carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left +this zealous assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in +departing on a hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the +population might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, +predominated with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and +repassing through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a +length of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to +be assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning +and treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we +parted in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a +hope, I must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of +pleasure, looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to +encounter, and considering the state of my own health. + +<p>The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and +delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary; +therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day, and +go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter journey. +This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the waterworn +pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of coal and the +rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its concomitant strata. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 p.m., 40°. + +<p>5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to +the river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and +convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I +accordingly sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. +Kennedy, and with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring +forward one of the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry +channels of tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, +like the main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable +point to encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there +gullies rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the +intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to +contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to +the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was +very open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of +water, forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from +north to south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked +XXXI., last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 p.m., +70°; at 9, 43°. + +<p>6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray, +confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of +course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the +time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had +now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical +work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have +had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men +were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of +Miquel was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°. + +<p>7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as +we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with +water-courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious +impediment. At length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, +and a long ridge appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, +following up the smooth clay floor of a water-course, I found myself +gradually entangled in a bad scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After +cutting our way through it, for a mile and a half, I sought on the other +side for any hollow leading off water, and found one which brought us +into an open forest flat with a fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula +appeared on its skirts; and, at length, abundance of water, also, in the +ponds. The grass was so luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped +beside it, without seeking the river, to which these ponds seemed +adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70° +(XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet. + +<p>8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was +very fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating +country intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. +At length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the +west. Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main +channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I +was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although +its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round +even from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, +obliged me to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid +them. We thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably +level, and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed +a water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley, +where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole +nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I +approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle +from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on +this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.) + +<p>9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I +considered that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet +weather; and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in +which I wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to +explore the country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. +Little rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of +hay, but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I +found a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful +clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few +bushes, by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and +endeavoured to talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, +who was with me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his +language, and in vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this +unintelligible parley at some distance, (for they would not come close +up,) we rode on. We came at length on a sandy country with much +Callitris, but the whole surface was undulating, and we crossed several +chains of deep ponds, all falling to our right, or eastward; some +containing water. At length, I perceived on the right, a deeper valley, and +found in it a little river with a rocky bed, and coming from the N. N. W. +At two miles further, along my N. W. course, I found it crossed it, +coming from W. S. W., and here I turned, well pleased to find an +abundant supply of water, and a good country in the best direction for +our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on rock, and the water was +plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the evening, after sunset we +were called to by a numerous tribe of natives, assembled on the opposite +steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we had encamped. By the +particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had seen in the +morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was evidently +their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil in the bud, +and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in line before +the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced steadily up the +opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud jeering noise. They set +up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced to the brow of the cliff, +as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently ascended, they fell off, and, +by the time we gained the height, they had retired to a considerable +distance, still shouting vociferously. Two, however, were seen drawing +round our left flank, in a little gully, followed by a female carrying +spears. I discharged my rifle over their heads, upon which they hastened +to their fellows. On firing another shot over the dark noisy mass before +us, they became suddenly quite silent, probably persuaded that we were +really in earnest. We marched through their camp, made a feint, by +descending into a gully, of coming upon them unawares, and continued +there, until silence and darkness secured our peaceful occupation of the +ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and noise, which might have +been kept up until morning, and until they had worked themselves into +that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think they have courage to +fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up, they were sure to +have followed us, and gathered a savage population in our rear. Lat., 25° +54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 p.m., 70; at 9, 50°. +(XXXIII.) + +<p>10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession +Creek, for so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until +we filled a hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of +yesterday. Thus we reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding +much heavy sand in the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest +point I had previously visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m., +75°; at 9, 39°. Height above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.) + +<p>11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were +obliged to turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction +whence the river came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of +only 3½ miles, and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I +thus came upon the rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording +an easy means of crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only +passable place I had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. +The strata at this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced +me to travel westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, +a synclinal line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We +passed through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable +elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained +grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds +falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, +whereupon I returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 +p.m., 38°. Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.) + +<p>12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with +ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a +yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of waterworn +pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a silicious +petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse track of +yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which grew +brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we came +upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew the +GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10 feet. I +found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was here +1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further on +were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became overcast +with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight showers fell. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4p.m., 73°; at 9, 60°. The +wind and clouds came from the west. + +<p>13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the +northward; nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again +lose westing, until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. +The morning was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to +gall the necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that +direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, +rosewood, and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and +continuous. I fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course +there was from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more +sandy, although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the +northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it +ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had +almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then +burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I +therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make +much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 p.m., +54°; at 9, 48°. + +<p>[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles further +would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the head of the +river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.] + +<p>14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a +change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were +filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and +took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered +rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began to +think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following +down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47' +28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9, +38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet. + +<p>15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its +channel became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few +miles below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in +one part of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it +would have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the +S.S.W. I thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path +was thus again crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then +travelled 12½ miles, and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the +day's journey, with little exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but +for the rain that had fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and +oxen. As it was, they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, +Mr. Stephenson caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a +circumstance almost proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We +found this day a new narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with +bark thick, soft, and fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA +HOLOSERICEA was loaded with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. +Among the herbage was observed the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and +the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the light dry sand. Novelty in the +plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be expected; the weather was +cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment tolerably efficient. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9 p.m., 46° (XXXVII.). +Height above the sea, 1827 feet. + +<p>[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus mucronatoacuminatis +supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte revolutis, +paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-tomentosis. +These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every other +species.] + +<p>16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river +I had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th +instant. The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning +was about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and +even south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there +was a little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I +had intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12° +west of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country +would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris +was, as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand +between them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its +course, consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when +their direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of +encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be +found in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for +water, I found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; +at 9 p.m., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet. + +<p>[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis +canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis +superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus +parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis +concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very +distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid +hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant, but +very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.] + +<p>17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain +already mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick +forests of callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open +places amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground +was undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of +these ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at +length attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the +summit I ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond +it, we came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we +greatly wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon +hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy +flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous but +dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this downwards +about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the sandstone +cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks. Ascending +at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above, and an open +forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up at a rocky +point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the Maran, +convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far off. We +descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry watercourse +lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river. Here, +however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform +breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., +and I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water, +however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and +the sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up +the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found +some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp, +which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for +our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards +until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without +drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent +throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from +30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams +might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained a +vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was +rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with +rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make +the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst +the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I found, +growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected by Allan +Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of Hunter's +River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on the +Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 p.m., 61°. + +<p>18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly +refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal +Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the +bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until +he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst +the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the +summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my +survey, lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was +unimpeded by gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive +view, embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of +volcanic cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the +direction of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little +could be seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, +by which the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint +in a long line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed +thus to pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges +about the 25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden +from my sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I +had ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance +bounded by low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, +like cliffs, towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, +indicated a good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, +that eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then +attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the +officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the +summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map, +and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at +a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could +be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for +which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race +as had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, +and the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the +world to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names +were applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do +honour to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a +bald-forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to +the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points, +Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished +to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening, +Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all +sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on +which I stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as +to form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle, +"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes +grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst +them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On +returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a +spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river; +having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal +Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp: +thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds +in the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the +crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the +horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more +water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to the +north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible from +the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had found, +in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone gullies +radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards Mount +Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of mountainous +obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the principal +features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for our carts +in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first establish the +party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it along the range +towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be necessary, in order to +turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking some rocky gully within a +convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again to explore these recesses +for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's pond in the main channel. +Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two beautiful and delicate ferns, +the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM ASSIMILE, the Australian +maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII, on the +rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a variety of E. +SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon, +69°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578 feet; and above +river bed 40 feet. + +<p>[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis +longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis) reticulatovenosis. +This species is remarkable in the size and shape of its petiolated +leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences (galls), each +with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as many unequal +projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of some +BEGONIÀ.] + +<p>19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the +grass for our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, +the sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's +track towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which +broke abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to +the right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the +river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy +valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our +horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had +already found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water +sufficient for the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down +the valley while they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile +from the camp. The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this +one, were dry. Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent +quality. Pigeons were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) +which is so great a luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the +feathered race. The highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day +appeared (by Captain King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. +That of the camp over the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of +these cliffs above the bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 61°. + +<p>20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the +country beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest +land, and a less broken country, in a direction much further to the +westward than the course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I +now proceeded W.N.W. towards that open forest land. We found the +country open for some miles, then, entering a flat or valley, I descended +gradually between sandstone rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep +ponds led to the north-west. On following this down, I found it turned +more and more to the westward, and at length to the south-west, +whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy banks, and, following up a ravine +from the other side, again endeavoured to pursue my intended course. +We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a sandstone range, and descended +by another valley which led first northward, but terminated in joining a +spacious grassy flat with dry ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this +downwards for several miles in a rainy evening, and found at last, to my +disappointment, that this also turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and +hemmed in by low rocky points of ground, of very uniform shape. Many +marks of natives appeared on the trees, and, in good seasons, it must be +one of their favourite spots. I left it, however, when darkness and heavy +rain obliged me to look for shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. +By the time we arrived at this, we could see no grassy spot for our +horses, nor any sort of cover for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a +fallen tree, and under this, covered with a few boughs, we lay down on +the wet earth for the night, being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, +water for ourselves and horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, +69°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°. + +<p>21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we +should have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of +well filled ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment +to this journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were +unavoidable. On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine +open forest hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of +Mount Owen, had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak +induced me to approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little +water-course in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the +product of last night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the +deviation from my route. A group of the most picturesque hills +imaginable lay to the northward, and were connected with this, the whole +being branches from the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep +blue colour, where their clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly +of a golden hue, from the rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke +through the heavy clouds and poured rays over them, which perfected the +beauty of the landscape. I recognised, from this apex, my station on +Mount Owen, and several hills I had intersected from it. Amongst others, +the three remarkable cones to the westward of Mount Faraday, +apparently a continuation of the line of summits I have already +mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal trap in nodules, the +crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of lime, and there were +many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round shot, strewed about. +A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest part, and, on this +summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by local attraction, and +quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket sextant, and with it took +some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily enjoyed a breakfast, and +named the hill which gave us the water, Mount Aquarius. Returning +towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived at the head of a +gully which led tolerably direct until we found our track, in the creek I +had run down on the preceding day. But night was approaching, and we +had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern before which a +large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night there in my cloak, +I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at the camp, at 4 p.m., +had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer to 22°, or 10° +below the freezing point. + +<p>22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp, +determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my +original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the +neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a passing +shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of +Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, +from the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that +summit to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of +the Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land +seemed the highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's +Table Land. I could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix +it in my map. I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the +northward, and a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country +beyond, through which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to +prepare for a "raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 59°. + +<p>23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled +nearly northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large +kangaroo entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in +avoiding those on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, +showed me that this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to +Mount Clift from my former observations, and therefore followed it by +keeping between the heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found +one favourable for a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, +valley, extending about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes +evidently held much water, although they were then dry. This soon, +however, turned to the south-west, evidently to join the channel I had +before explored. Quitting it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended +sandstone cliffs and pushed through scrubs, determined to proceed +directly north-ward, until I met with valleys falling north-west. We thus +passed just under the most easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, +about sunset, to a hollow containing ponds, in two of which we found +water. Here we gladly bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and +were numerous higher up the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at +noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 50°; at 9, 40°. + +<p>24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was +frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in +which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex. +Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and, +after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing feature, +(especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley descending to +the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water holes, and in two of +these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The course, throughout all +its windings, was towards the north-west, and this I, at the time, thought, +might be a northern water. I therefore returned, anxious to bring the party +thus far, at all events, and resolved to follow this little river down. We +arrived, on our way back, in the evening of the same day, in the valley I +had quitted in the morning, having followed down a water-course from +the end of Hope's Table Land, under which I had passed, in search of a +good way for the carts. Although we had seen promising ponds of water +in this little channel, we could find none in the lower part, having in the +expectation of finding some, rode on until darkness prevented me from +going further. We were thus obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) +without water, and almost without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern +where I had slept a few nights before, especially when I arose here in the +night to mend the fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt +afterwards that at the camp, the thermometer at 4 p.m. had been as low +as 17° of Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P. +M. 49°; at 9, 29°. + +<p>[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much +more easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is +moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of +Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated +7th April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal. + +<p>"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to form +so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the barrier in so +extremely severe a period of the season being impracticable, we stood +away to the westward, for the purpose of making another attempt to +approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude (76° S.) on the 15th +February."] + +<p>25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten +minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving +rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but +not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to +bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate +stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether +the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount Clift, +or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country, should be +preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the eastern +gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift than at the +point where I before came down. But I found them much more +acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a +rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh +called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together +from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with +its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence +towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us +upon the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable +looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen, +and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been +discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had +dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! +However that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding +water. In the neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were +collected; viz. NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES +TENUIFOLIA, ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with +HOVEA LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, +a low shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small +species of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a +verdant fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small +red berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups, +appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there +being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have +been an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost +tomentose above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus +DODONOEA, frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its +flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 p.m. 51°; +at 9, 22°. + +<p>[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus, foliis +obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque, capsulis +tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.] + +<p>26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of +finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water- +course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed +the barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be +700 feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned +to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel along +its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had bivouacked +on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before sunset, +encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which were +two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the horses +nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered out of +buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in +abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite +cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, +14°; at noon, 48°; at 4 p.m. 47°; at 9, 37°. + +<p>27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to +come directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and +bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it +possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to +within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left, and +some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and +encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the +cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the +way, about 3 p.m., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced +with our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up +by sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and +extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very luxuriant, +apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately to the +westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was +bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was +open along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along +its sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and +various remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, +forming a shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, +at sunrise, 20°; at 9 p.m., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet. + +<p>28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the +ordinary weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the +barometer also indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I +sent the party forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to +the ponds in the newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I +proceeded myself, accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the +fine cone already mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and +extensive view of the mountains further northward. Most of the summits +I had previously intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just +appeared over an intermediate woody range, through which I was at a +loss to discover where our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the +north-west, I could just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills +arising from a much lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever +might be the final course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and +water. The most important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a +grey misty tint, as if it marked a valley descending from the highest +eastern mountains, towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. +Bare crests of similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole +extent of that valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in +such a clime, with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if +watered well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it +was fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended +consisted of trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at +its base, and on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact +felspathic rock which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has +been considered a very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an +altered rock. Here, in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to +break into irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; +and I observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side +lay uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene +rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident at +Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as +affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we +had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM +ELLIPTICUM. I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since +ascertained, by that officer's register and calculations, the height of this +summit above the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 +feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX) + +<p>29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water +(coming from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left +bank of the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged +me to make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we +regained the banks of the river, although our progress was not +considerable. Its general course was still north-west, to the spot selected +for my second camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks +high, rounded, and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel +was rarely to be seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent +temporary showers seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I +ascertained the variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer, +at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. +(XL.) + +<p>30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the +southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered with +scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the carts +along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did not +proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged us to +abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a +projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest +direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the +bank, southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and, +directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained a +view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed, +and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of +this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of smoke +seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but, towards +the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this disappointment. +Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an intervening woody +range, there indicated a much lower and different kind of country, as if +that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern waters; the woody +intervening range appearing to be the division between them. As our last +explored river again turned southward, it seemed reasonable to expect, +beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing a different course. +This range was plainly traceable from the high mountains more to the +eastward, and was continuous westward to three remarkable conical hills, +beyond which, the view did not extend. On the same range, a fine tableshaped +mountain appeared nearly north. This I had already intersected +from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The hill on which I stood +consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the western extremity of +Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards found by Mr. +Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That ravine was +extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The bottle-tree +(Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it, in the +stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One thorny tree +or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again appeared here; +it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf somewhat like the human +hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright scarlet colour, about the +shape and size of a French bean. This, sometimes grew to a tree as much +as a foot in diameter; and the natives, who, like Nature herself, may be +said to do nothing in vain, had cut one down, and carried off the whole of +the trunk. The wood was of a leaden colour. This proved to be a new +species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*] By our last day's journey, we had lost +two miles of northing, and had thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south +latitude. I therefore determined to cross our friendly little river, and look +for another beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, +44°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732 +feet. (XLI.) + +<p>[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato, +foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo +lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although +no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the pod +and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad and +not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings extended.] + +<p>1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to +look into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its +western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length +into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious +that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies +into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell +to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some +clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I take +him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out, and +ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more +accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran northwest, +and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow it +then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened +back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient +to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my +way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to +me. One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other +or any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave +to this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer +side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly. +Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were +none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in +particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved ironbark, +was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite +leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered +lead-wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant +among the grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was +producing its small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow +leaves and globular fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new +CAPPARIS.[**] Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 p.m., 38°. + +<p>[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis +obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus subsolitariis.] + +<p>[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis, +foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus +aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus, +stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-14"></a><img alt="" src="trop-14.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Tree without branches</b></p> +</center> + +<p>2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I +had been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it +widened very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a +deep current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices +seemed to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most +picturesque outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, +resembled pyramids, and I saw an open country beyond them, from +which other summits of extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we +had found no moisture in the ponds, and lamented that a country, in +every other respect so fine, should be without water. Further on, I +perceived reeds in the hollow of the valley, and Yuranigh said there must +be a spring, upon which he walked in amongst them, but still found the +earth dry. The reeds at length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at +the lower part of the flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to +examine that point. He emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a +distance, made Douglas, my other man, say, "He has found water." He +had found A RUNNING STREAM, to which he had been guided by its own +music, and taking a tin pot, he brought me some of it. The water was +clear and sparkling, tasting strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that +this was the head of a river that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of +picturesque beauty and pastoral abundance, within eighty miles of the +tropics, we had discovered the first running stream seen on this journey. I +returned, determined to bring the party thus far, and with the intention of +passing that night where we had found water in a rock about six miles +back, that we might sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had +also the benefit of a cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we +defied the frost of a very cold night, the thermometer having been +registered at the camp, at 3 a.m., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had +passed through in the morning, a variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, +with grey velvety leaves, was scarcely in flower; and I observed a +beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS with large tubular flowers.[*] The +ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the sandstone ground above the gullies, +and a broad-leaved form of the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone +brightly, and the rock being full of silver mica, the splendour of the scene +imparted to my eye and mind then a degree of gratification far beyond +any associations of the richest furniture of a palace. We found it +impossible to get our horses to the water; but we hit upon an expedient +which answered even better than a bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak. + +<p>[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi in +petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis acuminatis, +corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra medium +solutâ.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines long. +Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.] + +<p>3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and +found an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at +the camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part +of the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°; +at noon, 60; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800 +feet. (XLII.) + +<p>4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this +morning. Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the +banks had been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance +we hit upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy +valley descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky +crooked part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub +directly to the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the +valley, and arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of +my bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by +Arcturus) to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 p.m., +49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.) + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-15"></a><img alt="" src="trop-15.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The Pyramids</b></p> +</center> + +<p>5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze +our tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We +proceeded along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which +appeared quite isolated, and just such as painters place in middle +distance, I named Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of +the right bank of the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had +suddenly brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we +had before us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards +the country we were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country +seemed new to us. The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, +and I expected that our living stream would soon join that greater stream, +the basin of which I thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from +Mount P. P. King on the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the +others, curved round from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in +mountains equidistant between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it +was reasonable to suppose that we had at length crossed the division +between northern and southern waters. That between eastern and western +waters was still to be discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where +water was so scarce then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means +of determining where that division was. If the general course of this river +was found to be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that +the dividing ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the +westward of north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our +route, and this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing +north-westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. +Latitude 24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. +M., 49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen +observations, 1421 feet. (XLIV.) + +<p>6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA +appeared amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods +below, we found an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA +(Reichb.) VAR. MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was +less angular, and the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long +hoary leaves, and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, +at a later season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also +was found here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] +Travelling along the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of +sparkling water to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could +only account for the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a +season, by the support of many springs. We made sure of water now for +the rest of our journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et +labetur in omne volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any +I had ever seen in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals +in ruins; others forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and +contrasted with the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a +fine stream in the foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole +country. It was a discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those +beautiful recesses of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. +The better to mark them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of +Salvator Rosa.[***] The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the +thick woods, just as John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them +out in his beautiful sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature +come so near these creations of genius and imagination. Where we +encamped, the river was very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that +the use of a bucket was necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding +every precaution, one animal walked into the river, and could not be got +out without great difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were +two enormous eels, beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus +lay abundantly on the banks, about the old fires of the natives. These +were larger than either those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; +and although such freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a +peculiarity in these was pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they +much resembled the impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is +much broader at the toes than at the heel). We here met with a new +species of BORONIA, resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties +afterwards occurred. It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale +purple flowers.[****] A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining +leaves, also grew here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed +resembling European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with +white flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS +formed a small shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 +p.m., 49°; at 9, 38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet. + +<p>[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus +supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus +distantibus.] + +<p>[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis +oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris +trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime +pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6 linearibus +glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.] + +<p>[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and +ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on +mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).] + +<p>[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis +pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus subsolitariis +axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.] + +<p>[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis +falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis +subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis +solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel +brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia +shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually +almost sessile.] + +<p>7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon +found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in +one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush +mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the +current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the +hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most +charming morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an +open forest which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and +in a general direction about north-west. At length we approached the +northern limits of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, +as we had reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry +channel, which bore the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. +Following this dry channel down, I found its course turned to the +northward, and even to the north-east. When we were disposed to +encamp, I could find no water in the bed, nor were we better off when we +had encamped, until Corporal Graham dug between two rocks therein, +and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in one day vanished the pleasing +prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of a stream flowing in the +direction of our intended route. This might be, I then thought, the +tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would be found to flow +westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the desired north-west +direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9, 25°. +(XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet. + +<p>8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this +river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling +into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick +brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged +gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward, +induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined to +penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that there I +might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction, or, if not, +cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was lost, +however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses +crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The +scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings +admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of sunset, I +found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only half a +minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with difficulty, about +two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of a small watercourse, +I found that even this turned south-east, evidently to fall into the +reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I determined on an +immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back to our friendly +river. It was comparatively easy to return through the opening we had +made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so that by +twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the river, and +near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying almost in my +face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we afterwards found +the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of the bullocks got +bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole strength of the party +dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 54°; at +9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet. + +<p>9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the +scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and +the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, +14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 p.m., 48°. + +<p>10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight +eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to cut +a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward. +While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but +met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that +direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E. +towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined +them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through +open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy +gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks. +Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the +border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33' +25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9, +29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet. + +<p>11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a +fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again +impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of +this river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a +large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to the +eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward. It +was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the coast, +and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in it, about +the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing the river, +and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He could see +no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high table land +already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could trace the course +of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed them to encamp, and +proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W. direction, carrying +provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea of Brigalow--</p> + +<blockquote>"----And we did buffet it,<br> +With lusty sinews throwing it aside,<br> +And stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."</blockquote> + +<p>After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were +rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us. +That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the +foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, +extended far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of +mountains of romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape. + +<p>"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn," + +<p>included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, +with its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the +finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a perfectly +clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had emerged, +through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond that spot, +until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits before +me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these masses, +seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my +observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale, +the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a +great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of +quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it. I +could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense of +shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and prove +ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had indulgently +destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we traversed, +consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood in great +abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden as to be +only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken character. +Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich black earth, +which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history may be simple, +and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy could but find it +out. We found, further on, a channel full of water, with reeds about the +bed of it. There had been a current in it a short time previously, and, +indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in some hollows in the +Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and thus might have +afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had other directions +been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow near the water, +not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and thus we passed the +night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 30°. + +<p>12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the +assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts, +than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed +Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the +reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet in +that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the +remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain, +although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason for +supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could escape +to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at noon, +67° at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet. + +<p>13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river +Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W., but +deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick +scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we +crossed, was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the +river, where I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains +adjacent, the ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we +saw also various new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs +in the scrub. The banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. +I employed the party to make a bridge across it, and this was well +completed before sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 +p.m. 68°; at 9, 40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.) + +<p>14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we +travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the richest +plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS, and +PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most +abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have +been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived +at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We +soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs, +apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub +of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so +thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad, but +because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so easily +take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack, after +imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich land was +thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex, agate, and +chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most strikingly +resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an entire trunk +lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains of a tree! I +obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of this were rare. +The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was 1512 feet above the +sea. + +<p>Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to +the westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping +towards a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to +find an open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at +length arrived. I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and +having halted the party to examine them, I found they were quite +impassable. Such an unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open +country, yet UNDER that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it +was unexpected, and I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I +had seen on our right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also +found some large ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were +pitching the tents I rode down the valley about two miles, and found that +the direction of the water-course was about north-east. Such a direction +was not very favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country +beyond the limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it +further. Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m., +66°; at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea. + +<p>15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I +proceeded about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, +mighty rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. +Leaving him in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely +accessible with Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated +summit, I saw still worse gullies before us, amongst which I could +perceive no feature affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any +characteristic of the structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the +rugged summits I had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, +and could not then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on +completing my map), that they were then under my feet. The highest +parts seemed to extend south-westward. To cross such a region with our +carts, was quite impossible, and I could only return, and, however +reluctantly, follow down the valley in which we had encamped, until it +should afford access to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse +were steep, the bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, +alternately closing on rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus +we were obliged to cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered +each crossing a difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after +crossing ten times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct +distance from the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each +crossing, cut the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general +direction, I ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near +the spot, where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this +having been the first water we had seen during that day's laborious +journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 44°. + +<p>16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I +considered it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, +and thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour +and delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore +distressing to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to +work out of it, to get round them. The whole day was consumed in +proceeding thus about 5½ miles, and in an easterly direction. The +closing in of the valley lower down, seemed to shut us from further +progress even so, and I encamped, rather at a loss how to proceed. Just +then Mr. Stephenson came to inform me that he had seen, from a rocky +point on the left, an opening to the north-west, and level ground beyond +it. I therefore determined to accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre +the country in that direction. By digging in the bed of the creek, water +was again obtained by Corporal Graham. Some extremely fragrant +shrubs were discovered in these rocky recesses, especially one, which +filled the air with perfume to a great distance around. It seemed to be a +EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit, but with a powerful odour of balm, +and formed a bush five feet high, growing on sandstone rocks, having a +narrow leaf, and rather thorny stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] +There was another bush, with leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but +having a perfume equally strong of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that +neither the seed, flower, nor fruit of these interesting shrubs could be +obtained at that season. In that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS +BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed, and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The +soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began to indicate its flowering season, +and we found a magnificent new crimson CALLISTEMON with its young +flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new DODONOEA with wingless, +3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species of AOTUS, with narrow hoary +leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees was a splendid new GEIGERA, with +broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very +singular and little known fern, with narrow leaves and small orbicular +leaflets, was also there, with the ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a +shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The +BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-like heads of flowers, was common; +and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA MONOPHYLLA was observed among +the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 9 p.m., 41°. + +<p>[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris, +foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra +basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).] + +<p>[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute tuberculatis, +foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-parallelo-venosis +viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to name this +EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the deliciously fragrant +lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as the recent state of the +plant.] + +<p>[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis +quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque +lanatis.] + +<p>[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-lanceolatis +parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis 3- +locularibus trigonis apteris.] + +<p>[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis +crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis, calycis +vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato +villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the +narrow and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.] + +<p>[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe petiolatis subtus +obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This appears to differ +from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.] + +<p>17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. +By merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another +water-course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came +from the west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I +had previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined +this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay +deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine +broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This +gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on +all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling to +my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing, +and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at the +gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to guard the +entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and kangaroos +were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very attentively, to +be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature only. A turret +with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first appeared through the +trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a round hill. On a nearer +approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey rocks, and the small pines +climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising out of a forest of common +trees, presented still a very remarkable object. I named the valley "Glen +Turret," and this feature "Tower Almond," after an ancient castle, the +scene of many early associations, and now quite as uninhabited as this. +Passing through Glen Turret, we ascended the nearest summit on the +right, and from it beheld a prospect most cheering, after our toils amid +rocky ravines. On the westward, the rocky range seemed to terminate +abruptly towards the north, in an elevated point, which seemed to +command an extensive view over the unknown W. and N.W. Out of that +region two isolated mountain masses arose from an open country, and +were clothed with open forests to their summits. Further eastward, +masses of mountain in the extreme distance appeared covered, also, with +open forests, and presented finely rounded outlines, not likely to impede +our passage, in any direction. But towards the N.W. our view was not so +extensive; like the uncertain future, it still lay hid. The retrospect was +very extensive, including Mount Faraday in the extreme distance, and +which thus afforded me a valuable back angle for the correction of our +longitude from any errors of detailed survey. The lofty mass of +Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E., and I could here +again intersect its three principal points. The view back to the Pass was +very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on the bold summits, +as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to the westward, an +interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach, presenting a crescent, +concave on that side, apparently the limit to the basin of the Nogoa, and +the dividing range between eastern and western waters. Our Pass seemed +to be the only outlet through the labyrinths behind us. Even the open +plains beyond them were visible in a yellow streak above the precipices. +Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was distinctly visible, on the +horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at 9 p.m., 43°. +(LI.) 1234 feet above the sea. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-17"></a><img alt="" src="trop-17.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Tower Almond</b></p> +</center> + +<p>18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon +brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having +obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its elevated +extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction, tolerably +open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of grass, and +near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds descending to the +eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the habit of a dwarf +Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. (LII.) + +<p>[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus +cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus solitariis +sessilibus.] + +<p>19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting +further to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most +northern summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up +by gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it, +and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine +near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the +summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected. +Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course, +apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising +feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction, +the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land +appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features, although +much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then stood, +seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some higher +ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the coast. +Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken hills, +at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-connected +undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the south-east, +whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy Creek, while +others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a separate +basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river was +indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the left +or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated mountain +mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the valley +formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point of the +whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite, lay in +that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of N.) +through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the +mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea, +according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could +not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore +named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill, +were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range +itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable +impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the +camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon +two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged. +Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them +that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length +handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the +Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham +took the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and +expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the +woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or deeds +suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from +this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on, +which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered +a very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping +leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony +gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's +Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**]. Although +we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and +pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed +us to the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had +been frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at +noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 47°. + +<p>[* See page 285.] + +<p>[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve +lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque +canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-18"></a><img alt="" src="trop-18.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map VI. The River Belyando</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter06"></a> +<h4>Chapter VI.</h4> + + +<blockquote>THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN +OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH +WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE +EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN +PLAINS, WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED. +--DRY CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND +PROCEED N.W.--FROM A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH +BRIGALOW SCRUB TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE +CHANNEL MORE CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY +CHANNEL JOINS FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE +NORTH-WEST.--CROSS FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK +BRIGALOW.--NIGHT WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS +COURSE BEING EASTWARD OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE +OUR TRACK TO THE PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE +WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART, WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH +TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.</blockquote> + +<p>20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow +scrub, on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, +and crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards +the N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, +resembling a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was +precipitous, and seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after +crossing a ridge rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub +upon it, and one or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the +bottle tree, (DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses +descending to the southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. +One, at length, on our right, taking the direction in which I was +proceeding, viz., 10° W. of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a +broader valley leading N.W. Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, +we found at length a fine pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, +after a journey of about twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to +the base of the lofty isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower +valley crossed it, falling either to the northward or southward. This I left +in pleasing uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that +locality, when I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running +north and south. I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount +Beaufort, in honour of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 66°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 62°. +(LIII.) + +<p>21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad +valley, we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly +turned in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from +the south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount +Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we +had at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil +consisted of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. +We got amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for +the channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left. +Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with +no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the +brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon +arid stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently +from drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means +encouraging. On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, +at an old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that +water was not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two +native companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, +on which salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the +Bogan, had been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The +very grass seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so +checked by drought. A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, +and convert the country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured +further, to send the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to +examine the country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at +sunrise, 57°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 48°. + +<p>22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, +I went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the +united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the +direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From +these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to +ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the +northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over +them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to +relieve me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A +promising valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, +and from it arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, +from other ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured +the outlines of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this +morning were a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of +yesterday. Such is human life in travelling, and so it was in war at +Salamanca this day thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short +journey on the bank of the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at +sunrise, 49°, at noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.) + +<p>23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so +that none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. +Accordingly, on arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to +all, that they might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we +not fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread +into little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes +formed by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of +the grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been +due, and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we +had travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the +scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered +with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond, +and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the +water-worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, +besides the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. +Very old and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were +small fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large +forked tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black +eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs, +apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude, +23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m. 80; +at 9, 55°. (LV.) + +<p>24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air +was balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. +Lightning had been seen to the northward during the night. In following +the little wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, +and crossed two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a +good large pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling +the main channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. +With the last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became +neighbours to the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was +to be seen, and the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in +length, with ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of +thunder was heard in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, +that we were near the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms +exhausted themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where +they fell. During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next +morning, to the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, +56°; at noon, 75°; at 4, p.m., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.) + +<p>25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our +route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of +Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that +line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible, +just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely +fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower. +The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to +improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of +rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to +the eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At +eight miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many +ducks, and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, +finding that water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we +required it. Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at +noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.) + +<p>26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out +in that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by +scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead +of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the +genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and +travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any +indications of the river, whose general course had been previously +straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow, +rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush, +new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of +flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed; +useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; +and useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown +fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late, I +travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained its +banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked +bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst it, +evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of +spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker +terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and fruit. +Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and underside +of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span long, cordato +acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green and +glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear, +pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by +Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already +seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 89°; at 9, 75°. +(LVIII,) + +<p>[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis, foliis +impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis subalternis.] + +<p>27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a +variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much +whereof lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there +was any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of +little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of +water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as close +as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of +yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I +was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling +thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I +named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a +range in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only +to send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it +westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for +water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven +miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at 4 +p.m., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.) + +<p>28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so +hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a +southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided, +and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more +formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost +impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar +to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from the +usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the +party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part, +by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread +over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however +fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had +been flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed +there, the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of +water, and beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a +tribe of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of +decayed stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once +grown, and that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; +as if, according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to +open downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular +seasons, become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted +in the scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the +plain, and across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through +some open forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the +many dry channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom +then consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit +it, and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly +undulating ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the +LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a +tree, from whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of +which I ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, +through which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The +extreme westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing +was likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the +direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground, +consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found +brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead +stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state. +On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with +good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this +plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed, +found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5' +20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, +58°. (XL.) + +<p>29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of +easy access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a +N.W. direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood +and other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew +in the place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, +park-like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a +greenness was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these +tropical regions. Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA +HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike +plant, and a form of Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the +two other varieties. This was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species +of the genus GEIJERA formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender +weeping branches. It was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, +except that its flowers were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus +STENOCHILUS, but new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large +spreading tree, from which we could bring away nothing that would +enable botanists to describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of +the leaves, which, Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; +but the fruit appeared to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect +to lead to any satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently +from those near Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another +language." This river was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. +It still consisted of a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any +one continuous channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by +various trees growing in the banks. When their large roots became +denuded by the floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that +the tree fell over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the +floating-wreck, and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of +floating wreck became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so +formed forced the river into new currents, working out new courses; and +this appeared to give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It +seems extremely favourable for the retention of water in a country where +it may be scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, +preserve it much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed +channel alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found +the hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded +in discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and +naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn, +although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to +attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was +delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to +90° about 4 p.m., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our +recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had +disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers +in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, +80°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.) + +<p>[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus in +petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.] + +<p>[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis +apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus +lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis infimâ +retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but much +whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the lower +one much broader.] + +<p>30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I +endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found +the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to the +left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into extensive +plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and that was +skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we entered an +open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw, from the skirts +of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the east for several +days past, and I was able to intersect various points. We seemed to be +descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon, covered with +ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved both as +to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet high, +was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M. +DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M. DULCE. A +hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained abundance +of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and, instead of +brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong grass, and much +verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble to cross, and +soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had run well to +the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I was very +anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I crossed it, and +hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a flat-topped cliffy +range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was low; the middle +part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our camp. It was +likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our purpose. Latitude, +22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at +9, 45°. (LXII.) + +<p>31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from +that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in a +deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range +I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large +river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This new +river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened across +it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction of the two +rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green pods and dry +pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than those of +Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?) Beyond +the last found river, we travelled over open forest land, occasionally +passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might again see +water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our abundant +little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for such was the +bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious dry lagoon. +Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large floods from the +river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still continuing along +the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared, and I finally +encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The course and +character of the river below the junction last mentioned, remained to be +ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which, before the rain, had +been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen, which bore some +resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered in any quantity. +The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form from any to be +seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard clay about the size +and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being larger, or as much +as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they were so numerous, +as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst, especially where the grass +was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45". Thermometer, at sunrise, +52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 43°. (LXIII.) + +<p>1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I +followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came +upon the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many +miles in that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where +the very coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina +appeared amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh +went to the top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to +the eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the +course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low range +already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country between +the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very low. +Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a +course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction, and +forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through +much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large +Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very +important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping +grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the +lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large +ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we +encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now +appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed +woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny +white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly +tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the +bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of +LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of +Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary +CAPPARIS was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight +inches long, although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and +their hard leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not +afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22° 38' 40". +(LXIV.) + +<p>[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis +longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis +solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.] + +<p>2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, +but lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. +course in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests +alternating with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving +dry hollows where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all +these hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and +children, remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These +numerous receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with +which even the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of +the animal world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that +sort of scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, +by travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to +the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former +camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the +river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it +would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be +nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to +terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to +be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to +40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost +bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the +river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned +direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In the +dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite new +to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and a +very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found near +this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS CURVIPES +was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of Acacia was +perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also a curious +scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 40°. (LXV.) + +<p>[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis +oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis +pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi +pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite +distinct.] + +<p>[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus, oblongospathulatis +acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et obsolete +dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis radicalibus +elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum vel +trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-lanceolatis, +floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis, membranaceis, +ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis, petiolatisque; antherae +liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum, labiis compressis, +cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent. lata, crassinervia; +scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum elongati.] + +<p>[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis +glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi +laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine +subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.] + +<p>3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in +crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the river +bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain distance +from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had been +accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the river, +and other food. The river was found to spread into separate channels, in +which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them again united in a +splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general course was by no +means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was much to be +apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast, and become +another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the interior +country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys have been +made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of +polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of +brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part where +we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded by +torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn banks, +and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from these +obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like +scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last +two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and +coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along +the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten miles. +The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics, which they +seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That we had just +quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for brigalow scrubs, +and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered river seemed quite +the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform; the banks being +covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was sandy, but +contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us to higher +regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might fall in the +direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin fish of the +Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in the river to +which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other sorts. There +was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in particular, growing +in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining bark of the tea-tree +(mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of the eucalyptus; a +HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI, but not in flower; a +CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or at least closely allied to +it, occupied the dry sandy ground with MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded +weed; and some Cinchonad allied to Coffea, with young fruit, the +size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23' 10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; +at noon, 59°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.) + +<p>4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit +the head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in +any direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was +soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross +it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us +to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over +ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At +length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface, +and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one +piece of rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the +rest, and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated flattopped +range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but +similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level +woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river +still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the +eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others +northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all +these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to follow +in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the horizon, +I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to have found +water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and absorbent. +There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this day's +journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan, none +of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed the +Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like mint, +was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new +MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at +9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°. + +<p>[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose +excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis acuminatis +appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis obtusis +imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis globosis.--A +very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII, Endl.: but +extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of the copious +slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the bleached slender +branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the leaves had been, as it +were, sunk.] + +<p>5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my +expectations, we had come quite far enough from the one we had +previously followed, which still might have turned N.W., where we +wished it to go; although I confess the prospect was by no means +promising. The doubt was still to be removed, and, after a night passed +without water, the earliest dawn saw us again going forward, in a +direction a little to the eastward of N. It was only after pursuing that line +for seventeen miles, that we again found the river, unchanged in +character, and still running northerly. This was a trying day for our +animals, as they could not be watered until long after it was dark; a +brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber, having retarded and impeded +the carts so that they could not be got to the water sooner. Nor had this +been possible, even then, but for the fortunate circumstance of our +having the light of a nearly full moon. I had preceded the party by some +miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest following my horse's tracks, +and I had thus passed through the four miles of scrub, and reached the +river early in the day. On returning, we found the party in the midst of +this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even by moonlight, to the pond at +which we had watered our horses during the day. Many dry hollows of +indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the brigalow we had passed +through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as much as possible, +through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs, many of which we +were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many deep impressions +of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also the tracks of emus. +Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had been following a +kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method adopted by the +natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which is, to +pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they overtake the +animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at length so +defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk. According +to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much higher +above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still it spread +into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being sometimes in +good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be more sterile +than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first indication of the +river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass, and we had to ride +two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find the river, having +been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives. At the first place +we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water, under the +shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 36°; +--with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.) + +<p>6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had +an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts. + +<p>7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along +the river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open +and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered +channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water, glittered +before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger water-fowl +shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to the northeast, +as if our river had been either breaking off in that direction, or met +with some important tributary from that side. I continued to travel northwest, +passing through some fine open forests. The character of the +country seemed changed. The grass was of a different kind, and a +refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of water," as +Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared still to be +continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward, the more I +was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at length +approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found this was a +river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as the one we +had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new tributary +from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had been +pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too +probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn +towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the +eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different +opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to +ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we +could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction. Their +report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take a ride +forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W., and at +two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was found +to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still continued +northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The STENOCHILUS +PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet high, and in +the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E. HYPERICIFOLIA, +but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not glabrous. The +DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy fruits, clothed +the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude, 22° 2' 15" S. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 55°; +--with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII). + +<p>[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis +bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus +arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis densifloris, +floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque tomentosis, folliculis +oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis glabris.--Allied to G. +CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves are narrower, not +golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely secund: a splendid +species.] + +<p>[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis pinnis +oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel incisis, +rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis tetrapteris +villosissimis.] + +<p>8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, +northward by compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, +upon fine open downs covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil +was soft and rich, the grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias +were strewed over these downs, which were very extensive, and from +them I saw several rather high hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly +over a low country to the northward. Supposing that the main channel +would there turn round to the eastward, I proceeded north-west to +examine the country. I soon entered a thick scrub of rosewood and other +Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) +with rich crimson flowers, forming a large tree, in the dry open forest, +with perfectly green spikes; also, on the branches of Eucalypti, a +beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil was rich, yielding, and rather +bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated limestone, or marble, appeared +on the surface, showing that the improvement in the soil was owing to a +change in the rocks under it. Again emerging on open plains, the country +seemed to fall northward, which induced me to ride again in that +direction, thinking we might meet with some river either coming from +the N. W. or leading there. The open plains terminated upon a hollow full +of trees, growing, as was very evident, on a lower surface. The hollows +resembled those of brigalow scrub, and we soon found this tree in full +possession of them. Dry channels, leading in various directions between +N. W. and E. engaged my attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, +they seemed interminable. At length, we detected some continuity in the +hollows, leading towards the N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, +abundance of grass on the banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows +hovering over one, raised our hopes that it contained water, as we also +perceived a line of green vegetation over the margin. It was deep and full +of water. Here, about 4 p.m., we were thus enabled to water our horses, +and continue our ride independently of finding more water that evening. +We next perceived an open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the +country from it, we saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering +the brigalow scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, +and I at length lost it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a +direction in which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the +mazes of another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions +between N. W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course. +During this unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where +the dry and naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had +come thirty miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, +that I found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and +lay down to pass the night. + +<p>9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded +again into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous +channel, and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a +plain. Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very +much resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found +the river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered +ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity. +We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while +engaged laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives +looking at us from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough +to one who stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who +instantly replied to my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It +was a brief but intelligible interview; no words could have been better +understood on both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we +saw these natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had +been turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time +while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was +telegraphing with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some +vessel with water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, +and advanced to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also +that they might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green +bough and subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. +Yuranigh was burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed +him to throw them about, that the natives might see that we neither eat +their kangaroos nor emus. I found the course of the river very straight, +but rather more than it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts +of the channel, lay deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other +places, shallow hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the +river's currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a +grassy part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we +had reached that morning. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-19"></a><img alt="" src="trop-19.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Missile club of natives of Central Australia</b></p> +</center> + +<p>10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the +north, with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove +as rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great +novelty to us there. About 9 a.m., the sky was wholly overcast; but it +finally cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 +p.m., having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. +There I found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of +water, being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined +to explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of +the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been +visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all very +strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them carried +three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and a +gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts. They +said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They +pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. +Stephenson happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then +beckoned to the party that they also should follow or go where I had +gone, or leave that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and +patiently, by the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my +man Brown, being very desirous that I should return before they +departed; thinking the old man might have given me some information +about the river, which he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation +seemed to arise between the old chief and the tallest man, about the +clubs, during which the latter again came forward, and beckoned to +others behind, who came close up also. Each carried a club under each +arm, and another in each hand, and from the gestures made to this +advanced party, by the rest of the tribe of young men at a distance, it +appeared that this was intended to be a hostile movement. Brown +accordingly drew out the men in line before the tents, with their arms in +their hands, and forbade the natives to approach the tents. "Nothing +damps the ardour of troops so much," says General Lloyd, "as an +unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and these strong men +stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five men in line, with +incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our three dogs ran at +them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better. They all took to +their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of their tribe; and the only +casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which biting at the legs of a native +running away, he turned round, and hit the dog so cleverly with his +missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill for months after; the +native having again, with great dexterity, picked up his club. The whole +of them then disappeared, shouting through the woods to their gins. It +was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they exclaimed "Yerraman," +the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of these animals they +were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much dread of the +bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack the white +strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but another of the +many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight, without +treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition. That they did +not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when detached from the +body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be set down as a +favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for whenever they +visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I was +absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The old +man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which +this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the +intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it +joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below that +junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the natives, and +learn something of the country to the north-west. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, +59°. + +<p>11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, +we travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the +main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to +connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that +this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which M. +Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he +supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across +three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W. +to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude +south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at +all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its bed, +moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600 feet), +that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and +western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following +conclusions:-- + +<p>1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the +westward of all the sources of the river Salvator. + +<p>2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of +the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the +greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and, +3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal +range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount +Faraday appeared to be one. + +<p>I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head +of the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west, +as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had +marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I +left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this +being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a +good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route; +which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through +pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now +occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics, +the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting +exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr +plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A. +Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; +and the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous +among the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of +STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of +Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage +resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of LABICHEA.[***] +Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 35°; +--with wet bulb, 30°. + +<p>[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis +integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox +glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne +attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty +well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with +Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which +Brown also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new +species with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by +Sir T. Mitchell in his former expedition.)] + +<p>[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis +glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis +tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.] + +<p>[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus, +foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis +reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus +conformibus.] + +<p>12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed +themselves on the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads +homewards, merely saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher +point. The track already marked out by our party advancing, was so +much easier for the draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they +arrived at an early hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and +travelled with ease three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the +banks of which the grass was good, and where we therefore now +encamped. The track of the large feet of the natives showed they had +followed us this morning, from our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of +burning wood they had dropped, showed that they had this day met us in +the scrub as we returned, and had gone out of our way. Even to the +lagoon, their track along our route was also plainly visible. I was now, +apparently to them, at their request, leaving the country; and we should +soon see if their purpose in visiting our camp was an honest one, and +whether their reasonable and fair demand, was really all they +contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon, +70°; at 4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 65°. + +<p>13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond +Camp LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in +order to avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without +water, and the thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing +over fine open forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the +river on our left when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the +water, and distant only a few miles from the camp two journies back +from LXVII. I was guided by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much +of the grass on fire, and heard the natives' voices although we saw none. +We crossed some patches of dry swamp where the clods had been very +extensively turned up by the natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh +could not form any conjecture. These clods were so very large and hard +that we were obliged to throw them aside, and clear a way for the carts to +pass. The whole resembled ground broken up by the hoe, the naked +surface having been previously so cracked by drought as to render this +upturning possible without a hoe. There might be about two acres in the +patch we crossed, and we perceived at a distance, other portions of the +ground in a similar state. The river had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked +channel, with abundance of clear water in it, and firm accessible +banks. It was still, however, enveloped in a narrow belt of brigalow. The +shepherd having most imprudently taken the sheep to water when it was +near sunset, lost his way in the scrub, and could not be found all night. +Some thought he had fallen into the hands of the aborigines who were +closely watching us; and it was obvious that had they got possession of +our sheep, they could have annoyed us very seriously, or indeed, +destroyed the whole party. The night was very dark, the sky having been +overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 60; at 9, +60. + +<p>14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and +high barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I +sent Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the +shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 a.m. He +had been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have +fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon +been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still +found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day, +seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had +encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and +at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles +more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The +drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range, +towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier +rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that +from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from +decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it +was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in +other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt +grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads, +probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*] + +<p>[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long, linear +attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the other +with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large forest +trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.] + +<p>15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we +arrived at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, +(7° E. of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to +cut off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged +me to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about +midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip +of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and +encamped about 3 p.m., when the rain again came on, the morning +having been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 60°; +--with wet bulb, 58°. + +<p>16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the +country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main +river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in our +route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally +filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a +tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-tree +of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There also +grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered MELALEUCA, +resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*]; and, in the +scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-like shrub +fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I intended +to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We thus left +Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at that of +LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, +63°;--with wet bulb, 57°. + +<p>[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis +utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce +glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis breviore.] + +<p>17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, +the product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to, +the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in heaps, +or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of this +singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered in +any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round clouds +driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this of Bunten +stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been formerly +encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from S. W., +we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only on the +dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and I could +have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my +horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various +rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just mentioned, +which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a laxative +medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks were +quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most parts +covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in good +time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established +ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having +plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The +wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards +evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 p.m., a wind +from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, +55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 74°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 62°. + +<p>18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the +sky was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved +off, at our usual hour, 7 a.m. About nine, the western portion of the sky +seemed loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a +heavy rain began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of +clay, which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much +delay, at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., +and there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without +intermission until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into +mud, almost knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, +of water in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which +was still to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, +flowing towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; +at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 53°. + +<p>19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone +brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the earth. +The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I had +thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in that +interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I had +ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the +gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing range, +if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the parallel +of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was towards the +south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so decidedly in +the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we had just +explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending from a +mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet above the +sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those we had +seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the +water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable to +expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to the Gulf +of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal range +extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island, and +there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward +and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be +sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result of +which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the +north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the +country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most +momentous interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and +provisions almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic +line before we could return to it), I was determined to carry the +exploration so far, with whatever means could be spared from the party, +even had it been necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like +a native, on opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, +44°. + +<p>20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been +formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up, +and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground +passed over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every +hollow, a great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect +of relief from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes +past 10 p.m. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke +every man in it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, +a blaze of light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, +or revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming +sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which a +sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was such +that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the ground, +and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was very +clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°. + +<p>21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through +hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered +impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful +for the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had +hitherto confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. +We cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our +journey was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to +avoid the former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and +much bad brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the +sake of a piece of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most +pleasant, temperate, and Englishlike, though we were still within the +tropics. A sweet breeze blew from the S. W., and the degree of +temperature was between 50° and 60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, +I believe, of any, to the human frame. There was abundance of water, and +young grass was daily growing higher; many trees were also beginning +to blossom. We were retiring, nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical +regions, and I was impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to +resume my explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a +wild carrot, tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, +from the effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea +already mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt +whatever, that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The +GEIJERA PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour +of its long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA +MITCHELLII, in the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood +was remarkable from a perfume like roses. + +<p>22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked +and sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve +miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the +earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp +LVIII., and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of +good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at +9, 43°;--with wet bulb, 40°. + +<p>23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the +westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. +We thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or +berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and, +to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel +was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late +rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of +rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. +We encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a +spot where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being +very bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon +alter the case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf, +splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing +seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must +be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom +exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit +was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and +spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer, +at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, +41°. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-20"></a><img alt="" src="trop-20.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</b></p> +</center> + +<p>24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our +horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its +eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former track; and +in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above the letters +N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line of Capricorn. I +left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret; the weather had +favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant. The three +last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on these +mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees and +shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able to +gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII., along +our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there again +set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of tropical +Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass near our +route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones. These being +of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the table, GEOPHAPS +SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible to bring them up, +and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood. This bird seemed to +have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and flew more clumsily +than others. It had three streaks of white about the head, assimilating it to +the poultry class; and in building on the ground, it afforded another +indication of its resemblance to our domestic birds. The flesh is very +white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the most delicate of all birds. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 46°; +--with wet bulb, 42°. + +<p>25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very +crooked from following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I +set out on the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a +straight line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open +ground. The blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, +were welcome to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded +me of the Persian proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the +eyes." We encamped a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better +grass than we had left formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted +of gravel; and amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it +consisted, I found basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been +detected by me amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 52°; +--with wet bulb, 47°. + +<p>26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so +shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; +which spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; +but I could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily +journies short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. +One of the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but +Yuranigh, by chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The +thermometer had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box +well covered with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of +this camp, I found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having +been first seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 37°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, +40°. + +<p>27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts +along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the +right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view of +the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of +firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the +hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone, +I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen +elsewhere, except on the sea-beach. + +<p>I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range +on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward the +east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those +slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they +presented abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides, +forming an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on +the east side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay +our former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile +eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the +camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was +found in a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed +of the main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the +water before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 41°; at noon, 79; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb 39°. + +<p>28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the +plain: a fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due +southward over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until +we crossed, for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. +Just beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp +LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although +the pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a +good supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a +little dog of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it +known to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 76°; +at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 41°. + +<p>29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the +basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range, +which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We +thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in +quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other +Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its course, +with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries apparently larger +than itself. All these lapsed into the same concatenated line of ponds; at +one place, spreading amidst brigalow scrub, at another, forming one +well-defined deep channel. For the formation of ponds, and the retention +of water, in so dry a climate, we see here something between the +ordinary character of rivers, and artificial works which man must +construct, when population may spread into these regions. The fallen +timber of the brigalow decays very slowly, and is not liable to be burnt, +like most other dead wood in open forests, because no grass grows +amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The accumulations of dead logs +become clogged with river rack and the deposit of floods; to which +floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the waters into new +channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds, and completing +the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams and +reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water for a +longer time than any single river channel could retain, however sluggish +its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual drought, we had +found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½ degrees of +latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to wheel +carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very +favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along +this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience has +taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as +closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus, +open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond +which nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go +forward in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again +encamped under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting +portion of white rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it; +and that the avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the +mountain with white fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered +ravine below, a curious new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*] +Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 56°; +--with wet bulb, 50°. + +<p>[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens, +foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva +depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA +Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the +plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.] + +<p>30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to +sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, +and goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings +before the arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them +to a spot where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite +to camp LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the +plains, than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found +so difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride, +accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines +eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line +towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this +direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of +the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly +covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once +more saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with +Yuranigh's able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed +in conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow +range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than +the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp +(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA +DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the +ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil we +saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved +leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA +MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found +also a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, +59°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°. + +<p>[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis +sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis +primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari subgeminis +calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine glaberrimo. +--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily distinguished, +besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the veins of the leaves, +which diverge from the midrib at a very acute instead of a right angle.] + +<p>[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis, foliis +subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello calyce +paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo +brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be +seen in an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.] + +<p>31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the +morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable +gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then +ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride, +we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up to +its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and +drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky +slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new +and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market +gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we +ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the +CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA, +a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau +grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by +strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has +been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA +TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly of +thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA +appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just +forming its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered +MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about +four feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet +high, with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the +beautiful TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite +flowers. + +<p>[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus +sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas +fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis +integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum +superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long, +remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past +flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and +stamens. The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a +very strong smell of thyme.] + +<p>There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon +entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the +eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that +valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not +to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of +grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot +from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, +about ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX. + +<p>1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All +prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us +was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded +us at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite +clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar +country, large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing +above the placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a +range to us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no +stranger could have supposed these features to have been only the +highest parts of such a broken sandstone country as that from which we +had just emerged. The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they +were nowhere level but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in +white streaks high above us, when we first perceived them through the +scrubs. These downs consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on +which grew luxuriantly, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the +surface in general was loose, resembling that of a field after it had lain +long in fallow. Herbs in great variety were just emerging from the +recently watered earth, and the splendid morning did ample justice to the +vernal scene. The charm of a beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and +the songs of many birds sounded like the orchestral music before the +commencement of any theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a +place, was quite incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost +boundless extent of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that +of China, yet still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, +provided by nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and +industry might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented +population. + +<p>These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil +contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres +of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The +component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea +beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs +above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia, +and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil +wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. +The ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a +salsolaceous soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no +geologist has yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have +produced that rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly +grew; or these wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red +sandstone formation. One has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" +but this phrase admits of no easy application to such cases as +these. Fragments of a ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, +apparently identical with those in the basin of the Darling, in some places +accompany these angular fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a +new ERIOSTEMON allied to E. BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy +leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA +RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS +SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical on trees. We encamped on the +margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX, and about a mile distant from +it, our draught oxen being very weak and leg-weary. Thermometer, at +sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°. + +<p>[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis +obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus unifloris +tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.] + +<p>[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris +subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus, +involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.] + +<p>2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly +mentioned. We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then +made, had been much damaged by a flood. The little river was still +running, and it was cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its +sources, beyond which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in +repairing our bridge, so that all things were got across safely. We +ascended the undulating downs along our old track, and where many +curious specimens of trees in flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I +observed that no entire sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing +to have been compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. +Yuranigh brought me one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), +which so far confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the +coniferous character of Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance +of other specimens, I am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of +that description. I left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that +the direct route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was +rather at a loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the +name of Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the +Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral +subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might, +therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains. +About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which +had been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost +exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is to +be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or sources +are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and usually bare +of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 78°; +at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 42°. + +<p>3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest +hour." The thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of +the magpie or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and +the rich browns and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with +its dense grey shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in +the same state as when we left it. No flood had come down the channel +of that river. The tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the +old route, and bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is +remarkable that in no case had they injured or defaced the letters and +numerals marked on trees at the various camps, nor disturbed our +temporary bridges. We cut our way through a scrub of brigalow, thus +passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and XLVI., encamping at a short +distance from the latter of these places. Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at +noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 52°; with wet bulb, 40°. + +<p>4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the +lake, had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a +green crop was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our +cattle. Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this +day, proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to +be left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the +river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before they +had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about +the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on +seeing us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and +judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently +with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran +had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather +curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an +instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian natives +towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some of the +uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard +behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as +themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and +stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to +them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt +trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and +make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was +still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when +crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on +seeing us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions +before us, and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great +blaze there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody +range beyond Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued +until evening; thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous +sunset, which poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky +pinnacles, as I sat drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles +northward of XLV. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4 +p.m., 65°; at 9, 39°;--with wet bulb, 32°. + +<p>5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a +more elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy +clouds of cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the +last effort of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be +driven much farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where +this could be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged +to cross. We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which +well deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, +were seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe +yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug +position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by +which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, +and the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now +encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an +excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of +spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had +formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the +purple-flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the +pink-flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two +forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very +handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here +first appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a +small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of +LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the foot +of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with yellow +black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree fifteen +or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of ALL. +CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high, proved +to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A. CUNNINGHAMII, +but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of flowers, and +everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***] Thermometer, at +sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb, +31°. + +<p>[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis, foliolis +glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus, pedunculis +solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis triangularibus +glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.] + +<p>[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis +aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus +acutis persistentibus.] + +<p>[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis +elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis +subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus, spicis +elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo breviore, +ovario villoso.]</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-21"></a><img alt="" src="trop-21.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter07"></a> +<h4>Chapter VII.</h4> + +<blockquote>PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY +STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--PASSAGE +TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER NIVE.--ITS +COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE VICTORIA +DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO VARIOUS +CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE RIVER +ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST POINT OF +THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM THE +SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--ASCEND +WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE PYRAMIDS.--NEW +PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.</blockquote> + +<p>6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the +horses for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all +being leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during +these two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of +scenery within a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been +assiduously burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This +rendered the spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young +grass was highly relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass +remained to be set fire to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part +of the natives, is usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, +33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb, 31°. + +<p>8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in +writing a despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed +account of my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that +in the event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now +to accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to +leave it at this depôt camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, +and a fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our +intended ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky +continued overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in +sufficient quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to +produce dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the +8th, 53°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°; +and at sunrise of the 9th, 39°; at noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 52°; +--with wet bulb, 45°. + +<p>10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and +Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, +false horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, +along our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., +following up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This +valley led very straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three +volcanic cones, which I had already intersected from various points. The +other two I had named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three +hills formed an obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to +the north-west, and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land +might be found to form an angle somewhat corresponding with the +directions of the two shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to +the westward of such an angle in the range, I might find what had been +so long the object of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of +Carpentaria. We reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my +former observations as far as could be ascertained by the mode of +measurement I employed then; which was by counting my horse's paces. +On ascending the mountain on foot, I found a deep chasm still between +me and the western summit, which was not only the highest, but the only +part clear of bushes. A thick and very thorny scrub had already so +impeded my ascent, that the best portion of the afternoon was gone, +before I could return to the horses; and I resolved, therefore, to continue +my ride, and to defer the ascent and observation of angles from the +summit, until my return from the unknown western country, which we +were about to explore; the search for water that night being an object of +too much importance to be longer deferred. We, accordingly, passed on +by the southward and westward of the mountain, following a watercourse, +which led first N. W., then north, and next E. of N.; to where it at +length joined one from the west, up which I turned, and continued the +search for water until darkness obliged us to halt. During that search for +water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so concealed and covered +with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared from those following; +and yet, strange to say, without either of us being in the least hurt. We +encamped where there was, at least, good grass; but--no water. + +<p>11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, +we found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well +known to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after +long custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we +had breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely +supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of +some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward. +We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I +perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap +rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral +feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were +all visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The +connections extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at +the head of the Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these +I was careful to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was +higher than it, and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at +its lowest part, which bore 26° W. of S., was our next object. We found +the range covered with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. +On the crest, the rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade +thermometer stood, at noon, at 30° 5' equal to 87°, of Fahrenheit; the +height above the sea we made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we +encountered a scrub of matted vines, which hung down like ropes, and +pulled some of us off our horses, when it happened that any of these +ropes were not observed in time in riding through the thicket. A very +dense forest of young Callitris trees next impeded us, and were more +formidable than even the vines. The day was passed in forcing our way +through these various scrubs, the ground declining by a gentle slope +only. We next found firmer soil underfoot, that where the Callitris scrub +grew having been sandy, and we saw at length, with a feeling of relief, +that only brigalow scrub was before us; we ascended gravelly hills, came +upon a dry water-course, and then on a chain of ponds. Near one of these +ponds, sate an old woman, beside a fire, of course, although the weather +was very warm; and a large net, used for taking emus, hung on a +brigalow bush close by. The men were absent, looking for food, as we +partly conjectured, for little could Yuranigh make out of what she said, +besides the names of some rivers, to which I could point with the hand. I +was surprised to find that here, the name for water was "Narran," the +name for it in the district of the Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the +word for water amongst the tribes of the Darling is Kalli. That the +"Narran" river and swamp are named from this language of tribes now +dwelling much further northward, seems obvious; and, as the natives on +the Darling know little of the "Narran" or its swamp, it may be inferred +that there the migration of native tribes has been progressive from south +to north; the highest known land in Australia being also to the southward +of the Darling. The chain of ponds, according to the old woman, was +named "Cùnno," and ran into the "Warreg" which, as she pointed, was +evidently the name of the river we had formerly traced downwards from +near Mount P. P. King. I left the "Cùnno," and plunged into the brigalow +to the northward, thus crossing a slightly elevated range, where we found +a little water-course falling N.N.W. By following this downwards, we +found water in it, as twilight grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for +the night, in latitude 25° S. + +<p>[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.] + +<p>12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 59°; our height +then above the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. +Continuing to follow down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a +chain of ponds running N.E., and these we traced in the contrary +direction, or upwards, as far as seemed desirable. We struck off from that +water-course, first to the N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep +low ridge of clay ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We +crossed that low ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half +beyond, met another acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also +ascended, and found upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree +having hard spiky dry branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to +receive the charge of ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which +formidable array we nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived +at the head of a rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we +attempted in vain to pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," +until, seeing a flat on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the +water-course again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, +and contained some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, +whose banks were thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course +of this river was W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., +and at the junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we +watered our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, +three quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24° 52' +50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge +we crossed, was 84°; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3 +p.m., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89°; the +height there above the sea being 1778 feet. + +<p>13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer stood at 38°; the height +above the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river +would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a +conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in +commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; +and, to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. +Pursuing the united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy +plains. The air was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, +especially where the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were +MORGANIA GLABRA; EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM +with the aspect of a TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a +new scabrous HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning +by the natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry +warm weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as +an emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly +imprinted with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the +natives to attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the +aversion of the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: +people who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they +have thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted +with their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY; +these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old men +and women! + +<p>[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus +margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus +patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida, foliis +oblongis planis longè ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis pentameris, +calycibus patentim hispidis.] + +<p>[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris, foliis +alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis, floribus +distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis, fructu +subgloboso.] + +<p>The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but +it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E. +After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its +bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were +obliged to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and +laborious day. Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite +puzzled Yuranigh, for we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and +tracts they had set fire to, where trees still lay smoking. + +<p>14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72° of +Fahrenheit; the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently +determined by Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid +down my survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have +turned towards the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct +northerly course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank, +whence I had seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a +brigalow range. After a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand +curve in the river's course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found +water near the spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined, +and near which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank +covered with brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding +traces of a recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at +less than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not +crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and +refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs, a +beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal +spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a +wash and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one +sentiment of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water. +Like "a giant refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the +north-west, and passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very +gradually, during a ride of three miles, to where I at length could +discover that the fall was in the other direction. At this point, I observed +the barometer, which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet. +Fahrenheit's thermometer stood then (5 p.m.) at 86°. The dry channel of +a water-course had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had +also guided us to the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the +feet of three men in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives +whose track Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were +now going in the same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the +smell of their burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning +embers which had dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was +flat, and on it the rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky +gap (in a ridge) was still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set, +and not a blade of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what +was all this to the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With +eager steps we followed a slight channel downwards; found that it +descended more rapidly than the one by which we had ascended; that it +also increased, and we were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with +young grass, while yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected +from several broad ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot, +so opportunely and unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy +flat by the margin of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group +of bushes for shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with +very heavy clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain. + +<p>15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards +the gap, and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld +downs and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision, +bounded on the S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by +higher ranges; the whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in +which direction a line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to +the remotest verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the +realization of my long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N. +W. in the heart of an open country extending also in that direction. +Ulloa's delight at the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed +mine on this occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was +impressed at the moment have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being +allowed to make such a discovery. From that rock, the scene was so +extensive as to leave no room for doubt as to the course of the river, +which, thus and there revealed to me alone, seemed like a reward direct +from Heaven for perseverance, and as a compensation for the many +sacrifices I had made, in order to solve the question as to the interior +rivers of Tropical Australia. To an European, the prospect of an open +country has a double charm in regions for the most part covered with +primaeval forests, calling up pleasing reminiscences of the past, brighter +prospects for the future--inspiring a sense of freedom, especially when +viewed from the back of a good horse:-- + +<p>"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede, +A sword of metal keene-- +All else to noble minds is drosse, +All else on earth is meane!" --OLD SONG. + +<p>I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the +gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse, +which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open +country. The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless +downs appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on +emerging from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much +open plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke +far in the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were +inhabitants. The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly +PANICUM LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it, +SALSOLOE, and the ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed +the river downwards, the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon +as if interminable. This river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no +sand in its bed, which consisted of firm clay, and contained deep +hollows, and the beds of long reaches, then, however, all dry, while +abundance of large UNIO shells lay upon the banks, and proved that the +drought was not of common occurrence. The general course of the river I +found to be about W.N.W. true. We continued to follow it through its +windings all day, which I certainly should not have done, but for the sake +of water, as our progress downwards was thus much retarded. Towards +evening, Corporal Graham discovered water in a small tributary coming +from the S.E., while Yuranigh found some also in the main channel, +where that tributary fell into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this +was called, and turned our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees +in grass half dry, half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field +to-morrow." The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was +intense; but during the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under +heaven's canopy and protection. + +<p>16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly +formed clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to +trace, as if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine +regions of earth. At 7 a.m. the temperature was 63°; and (from +observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to +be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and +plains covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right. +Beyond it, we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in +proportion as we descended with the river. Some were much broken, and +appeared to present precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended +westward from between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range +seemed to be an offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the +river, below the supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its +character altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was, +however, scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 p.m., at the +only hole we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA +PENDULA formed a belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the +open plains, and many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the +rose cockatoo and crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and +SOLANUM amongst the latter. At length, we saw before us, to the +westward, bold precipitous hills, extending also to the southward of west. +A thunder storm came over us, and night advancing, we halted without +seeing more, for that day, of the interesting country before us, and having +only water enough for our own use, the product of the shower. No pond +was found for the horses, although we had searched for one, many miles +in the bed of the river. Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks +bore testimony that water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it +did through the finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen. + +<p>17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57°; +our height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us +from "repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of +tomorrow's fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had +found us unable either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to +Providence, however, we went forward, and found a pond in the river +bed, not distant more than two miles from where we had slept. In making +a cut next through a brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the +river, in a nearly westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and +turned again into a brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good +many miles, N.W., through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain +of dead brigalow; and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at +length, upon open downs extending far to the northward. I continued to +ride in that direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a +range of flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most +westerly portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us +yesterday. They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening +country was partly low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we +were upon. But where was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of +one appeared nearest to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some +well-formed hollows on that side the downs. Towards that point I +therefore shaped my course, and there found the river--no longer a +chain of dry ponds in brigalow scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra +trees, with open grassy banks, and containing long reaches full of water. +White cockatoos shrieked above us; ducks floated, or flew about, and +columns of smoke began to ascend from the woods before us. This was +now, indeed, a river, and I lost no time in following it downwards. The +direction was west; then north-west, tolerably straight. Water was +abundant in its bed; the breadth was considerable, and the channel was +well-marked by bold lofty banks. I remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan +plains, growing here, on sand-islands of this river. The grass surpassed +any I had ever seen in the colony in quality and abundance. The slow +flying pelican appeared over our heads, and we came to a long broad +reach covered with ducks, where the channel had all the appearance of a +river of the first magnitude. The old mussle shells (UNIO) lay in heaps, +like cart-loads, all along the banks, but still we saw none of the natives. +Flames, however, arose from the woods beyond the opposite bank, at +once in many directions, as if by magic, as we advanced. At 3 p.m. +Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at 90°. Towards evening, we +saw part of the bed dry, and found it continuously so, as night came on. +The sun had set, while I still anxiously explored the dry recesses of the +channel in search of water, without much hopes of success, when a wild +yell arose from the woods back from the channel, which assured us that +water was near. Towards that quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon +found a fine pond in a small ana-branch, upon which we immediately +halted, and took up our abode there for the night. It may seem strange +that so small a number could act thus unmolested by the native tribes, but +our safety consisted chiefly in the rapidity of our movements, and their +terror of strangers wholly unknown, perhaps unheard of, arriving on the +backs of huge animals, or centaurs whose tramp they had only heard at +nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"</p> + +<blockquote>----"rustling through the boortrees comin'<br> + Wi' eerie sought!"</blockquote> + +<p>our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or +annoyance being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we +hoped to sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally +unexpected by natives. Latitude, 24° 34' 30" S. + +<p>18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the temperature of the air was 72°; the +height of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank +for some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing +clear downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the +highest clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the +ranges intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the +northward of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed +had been 22° W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I +could judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of +the river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two +limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it +ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying +woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its +course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to +which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river +coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose +course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction +over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of +water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM +and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather +jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting +also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude, +24° 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower +than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the +Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were +pursuing. + +<p>19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 a.m. stood at 57°. The +height of these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has +said, that a situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where +a man should hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a +sublime position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted +to traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to +witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a +man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being, +and of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable +position he can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few +wants supplied almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he +falls in with water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence +alone; and this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible, +in journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man +seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and +disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely +inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may +venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a +brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a +perfectly level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward +of west, to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible. +Bushes of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them, +we crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a +concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue +clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation; +and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on +which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four +separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both +amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I +might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill +was visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only +downs and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant +view, which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of +our river appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we +found here. In that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river, +where, in a general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels. +The grass was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate +channels seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine +clear downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade +thermometer, 37°, or 99° of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the +shade of a small clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the +afternoon, three emus that had been feeding on the downs came +inquisitively forward; curiosity, apparently inspiring them with more +courage than even the human inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds, +our bacon had become so impalatable that a change of diet was very +desirable, and Graham, therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the +quadruped inspiring more confidence in the bird. It was curious to +witness the first meeting of the large indigenous bird and large exotic +quadruped--such strange objects to each other! on the wide plains +where either of them could</p> + +<blockquote>----"overtake the south wind."</blockquote> + +<p>One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that +evening being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not +slow in seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed. +There my men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who, +although unable to eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating +emu flesh, although he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM, +for the use of the white men. The channel of the river was still divided +here, amongst brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight. +Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 86°. Height above the sea, 758 feet. + +<p>20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 78°. Water +appearing to be more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its +general course in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay +to the eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as +belonging to another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first +encountered a great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a +rosewood scrub, redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we +found the deep well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward. +The bottom was rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river +also spread into branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon +open downs. Next we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with +yarra trees, and coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles +further on, we crossed another coming from N.E., on which, finding a +good lagoon, I encamped early, that the men might have time to cook for +themselves some of the emu, and that the horses might also have some +sufficient rest. Latitude, 24° 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 p.m., 86°. +Height above the sea, 724 feet. + +<p>21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 a.m., 63°. I found that the +various tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater +tendency westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward +of where we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a +concatenation of ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled +with water, apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of +the adjacent country. The course next turned considerably to the +southward of west, while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about +westward. I found an open plain between these, across which I travelled; +until, again meeting the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed +to turn more to the northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours +under the shade of some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper, +and found we were making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a +very open country. We were no longer in doubt about finding water, +although in the heart of Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon. +On proceeding, we passed some large huts near the river, which were +of a more substantial construction, and also on a better plan than those +usually set up by the aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof +had first been erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and, +thereupon thin square portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond +of water being near, we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the +night. At 5 p.m. the thermometer was at 82°. Height above the sea, 707 +feet. + +<p>22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 58°. This was no sandybedded +river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of +firm clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much +novelty, that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was +nevertheless tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and +carry them amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was +curious. One plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were +others resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with +white turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS. +Among the grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that +formerly seen on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA +PECTINATA, gathered in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst +the grasses a PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly +collected in the tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very +remarkable new species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow +panicle, and little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river +again formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the +wide open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we +had indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely +interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our +journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had +left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over +the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with +their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And so +we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived at +the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose impetuous +floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged with drift +matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of 400 yards. +The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal water lay in +ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned with +brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand +the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down +there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad a +water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just +below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort of +a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the +direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel. +About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the +broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican +and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in +such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them, as +to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed +diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces +had, at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that, +although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure +alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes +rose. Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole +together forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two +kinds of grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass, +possessing the remarkable property of shooting up green from the old +stalk. + +<p>[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium +plumosis, paniculâ pilosâ angustâ interruptâ ramulis inferioribus demum +refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis +villosis, foliis......] + +<p>The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their +extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito. +Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus +occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found +with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine +gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine +flavoured. + +<p>I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked +navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles, +beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside +one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would +have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on a +verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El +Dorado of Australia. At 2 p.m. thermometer 88°. Height above the sea +712 feet. + +<p>23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. thermometer 59°. Latitude 24° 2' S. New +flowers perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their +forms and structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I +could not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our +provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had +been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our +little stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any +privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed +half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this +interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack +horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we +threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it in +portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The +course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to +stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the +river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees +on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river, +but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We +next traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay +with gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen +nowhere else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a +river flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore +impetuous floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I +called it the Alice. + +<p>As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the +westward or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely +variegated with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to +the horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of +this kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and +water in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at +3 p.m., 90° in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by +pigeons, and a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous +that five were killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite, +the wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no +means of preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height +above the sea here, 826 feet. + +<p>[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.] + +<p>24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive +downs, in many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained, +apparently as if the decay of that species of scrub gave place to open +ground. I turned now to the S.W., and became anxious to see the river +again. At length we came upon a creek, which I followed down, first to +the S.W. and next southerly, until it was time to alight, when we +established our bivouac by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24° 3' 30" +S. Thermometer, at 3 p.m. 98°. Height above the sea, 688 feet. + +<p>25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 73°. We ought +to have been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on +for our stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without +tracing it to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to +follow the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at +every turn to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously +turned more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger +tributary from the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more +westerly direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We +thus came upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very +numerous tribe of natives, who appeared to have been there very +recently, as some of the fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and +large permanent huts, were seen beyond that encampment; and it was +plain that we had entered the home of a numerous tribe. I should have +gladly avoided them at that time, had not a sight of the river been +indispensable, and the course of the creek we were upon, the only certain +guide to it. Level plains extended along its banks, and I had been +disappointed by the appearance of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the +banks of large lagoons. On approaching one of these, loud shrieks of +many women and children, and the angry voices of men, apprised me +that we had, at length, overtaken the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come +upon them by surprise. "AYA MINYÀ!" was vociferated repeatedly, and +was understood to mean, "What do you want!" (What seek ye in the land +of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to my new plan of tactics towards the +aborigines, and took not the slightest notice of them, but steadily rode +forward, according to my compass bearing. On looking back for my men, +I saw one beckoning me to return. He had observed two natives, with +spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a bush in the direction in which +I was advancing. On my halting, they stole away, and, when a little +further on, I perceived an old white-haired woman before me, on seeing +whom I turned slightly to one side, that we might not frighten her or +provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to have been amusing +themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which was excessive; +and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most luxuriant. Our +position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With jaded horses +scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose language was +incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we might not +come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand him. His +answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to look at +them:--"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own +notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the +heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an iron +tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very long +handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their children +seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a mode of +carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I had +seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching for +freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed +unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had +been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude, +which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the +left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left arm +raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minyà!" they continually +shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they would +believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in +counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us +more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their "Aya +minyàs" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About five +miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the river +was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400 yards broad, +presenting its usual characteristics,--several separate channels and +ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the height above the +sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 p.m., in the shade, 99° of +Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged into the +brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy tribe; +who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting parties, +that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a kangaroo may +best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path in the same +manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at night, to be +again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit could be +overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground of +sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of the +river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east to +travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off the +great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it +down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might +receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon, +and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our +sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily +speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he +did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man +keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24° +19' 2" S. + +<p>26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 61°. My horse +was quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's +journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed +through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was +grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of +mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments +being much of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting, +for the most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six +miles, we saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that +the left bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to +the northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly +water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped; +resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most +thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24° 12' 37" S. +Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 92°. + +<p>27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 68°. On laying down my +work on paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way +homewards, our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from +us, and distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E. +passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it +should be required. + +<p>It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants, +the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the +natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a +few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire, +each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the head +reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and +thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their +occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no +respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for +washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in +mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint +that clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that +would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would +probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that +sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do +with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children +of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but that +the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the savages +of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men on +their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the +naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean +tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of +similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only +impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or +however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What, +then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to +inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated man +despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow. +Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition of +knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the +delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst +civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that +the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or gold +as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in lofty +minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is +worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be +said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my +reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while protected +from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how long these +dreams under it would continue undisturbed. + +<p>"The mind is its own place, and in itself +Can make a heaven of hell: a hell of heaven!" + +<p>Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 90°. + +<p>28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 63°. The horses were +much refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our +journey in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs, +meeting no impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches +of a considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this +day, besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according +to its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and +encamped on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had +previously crossed. + +<p>This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range +to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and so +determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature, +Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold +summit forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained +data sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of +the river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges. +The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like +sandstone. At 6 p.m., the temperature was 81°. + +<p>29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m., the thermometer was 59°. Re-crossing +the river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th +September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We +crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus +identifying it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered +with grass, and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange +flowers, which grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the +spot I sought, and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the +sun having reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had +been boiled before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon, +in such warm weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have +then been very good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had +out-manoeuvred the natives, the weather had been so hot that, +nevertheless, we could not "save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 p.m., +83°. + +<p>30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 67°. I found, by my map, +that I might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of +18th September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the +downs. We accordingly set out on the bearing of 5½° S. of E., and hit +the spot exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to +afford some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly, +passed through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice +crossed a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The +water-course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of +fine firm clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the +waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of +the country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river +we had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from +others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be +rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to +carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run. + +<p>1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into +view the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its +salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head +of the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above +the trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the +salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first +advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river +this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded with +the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a +distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we +at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes +came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the +horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our +former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head, +so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained the +bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA. + +<p>But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives +could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more +willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve +a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into +tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river +leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE SPICES +GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from +Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's +providence, in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus +affording access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon +peopled by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal, +and loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious +sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the +plants along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which +lay about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen +elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a +half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA, +resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr. Bentham.[*] +We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to make the +tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset; the moon +was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for water, until we +again fell in with our former track, near the place where we had watered +our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On hastening to the +pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days had dried it up, +and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most unpleasant +privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost vertical sun. The +river must receive a great addition below this branch from the +Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we had this +day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on our left, or +to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up the +waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so effectually, +that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus becoming open +downs. + +<p>[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis +linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis enervibus, glandulâ +prope basin immersâ, pedunculis glaberrimis gracilibus racemosis +capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.] + +<p>2D OCTOBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59°. +The height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I +sent Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to +contain water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods, +welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the spot, +where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our wants. +For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all that was +required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less assiduously, +although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it under such +circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost +indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former +bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour. +Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts +were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any +of them. + +<p>3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were +again seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus +afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their +hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham +succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped. +He then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards +us, when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark +and number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of +future reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again, +into this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this +bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight +course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route +along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us +back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the figures +72. + +<p>4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the +temperature, at 9 a.m., was 79°,) and alighted by the pond at the +junction of the Nivelle and Nive; near where we had passed the night of +the 12th September. This day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so +characteristic of sandy soils, but of which we had not observed a single +specimen in the extensive country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree. + +<p>5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass +before me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost +the first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted, +and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the +same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a +position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head +erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The +deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the +fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and +did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted +thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him, +and was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a +charge of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be +despatched. This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly, +about six feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before +known any Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly +brought the attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former +circuitous route when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our +former bivouac at an early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds, +formerly full of good water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I +proceeded to cross the scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction +towards Mount Pluto. But some magnetic influence so deranged my +compass, that, on reaching the crest of the range, I found that mountain +bore nearly east instead of N. E. N. I saw three of my fixed points, +however, by which, with my pocket sextant, I could ascertain our true +position, which proved to be very wide of my intended course. It was, +like many other accidental frustrations of my plans in this journey, an +aberration that did us good, for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub +formerly passed through, and also a rocky part of the range. We next +descended into a valley in which, after following down a dry watercourse +two miles, we found a fine pond of water, exactly as the sun was +setting. This day I had shot a curious bird, somewhat resembling a small +turkey, in a tree. The feathers were black; the head was bare and red. +This fowl was apparently of the galinaceous tribe. The flesh was +delicious, and afforded a most timely dinner to the party. A numerous +body of natives had followed our former track across the rocky ranges +we traversed this day, as appeared by their foot-marks, and Yuranigh +also discovered, in the same manner, that three natives had this morning +preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw none of these denizens of +the woods. + +<p>6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 48°. Height above the sea, +696 feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the +Pyramids; but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount +Pluto, from which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked +this bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively +marked, 71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series +from LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando. + +<p>The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and +plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and +myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced +at the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I +found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly +passed the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses, +the grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass +had been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest +sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above +the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the +mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much +Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although well +covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W. +side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct +the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides. +The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I +passed an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount +Owen and Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the +East, and some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just +visible across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with +Mount Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In +the S. W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate +westward, in abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as +far as known), the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters. +What that country is, was a most interesting point, which I was very +reluctant to leave still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the +westward of this trio, which thus seem to mark the place where the +upheaving forces have most affected the interior structure of Australia. +The temperature on Mount Pluto, at noon, was 90°; and the elevation +above the sea, 2420 feet. + +<p>On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck +into the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although +it was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward +of Mount Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke +in the direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the +party left there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud +cheers. All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in +high condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some +curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so +as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked +green and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most +refreshing home both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we +had almost constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected +specimens of XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple +INDIGOFERA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of +Miquel, a hairy shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; +GOODENIA PULCHELLA Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found +on the rocky ground near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the +summits of the pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills, +were gathered, AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though, +almost leafless herb, with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles +below the camp a species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp., +was found; and among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to, +but probably distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn. + +<p>The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed +a shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having +much resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA +CUNNINGHAMII grew about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was +seen on the sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there +also grew the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small +shrub six feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON +CUSPIDATUS, also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only +two feet high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet +high in similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still +abundant on the sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the +POMAX HIRTA, a plant six inches high. + +<p>[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis impunctatis +brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus leviter +revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis trifloris folio +brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE. Detected by Fraser +on Mount Lindsay.] + +<p> +At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA +formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a +small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer +specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA +ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the +SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a +shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy +leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its +silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of +twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the beautiful +LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer state, near +Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered ravines +amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with its +four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high. +On the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved, +glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green +flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in flower). +The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species of +ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage, +relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of +Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that +genus, according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which +proved to be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the +precipices[*]; a new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new +RUTIDOSIS, a tall herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved +GREVILLEA, with yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with +inconspicuous flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of +Comesperm, about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or +downy stems; it was allied to C. RETUSA.[******] + +<p>[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis +subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis falcatoellipticis v. +oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis minute 1-2- +glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo longioribus, capitulis +multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A. VESTITA. Phyllodia from +an inch and a half to two inches long, half an inch broad, resembling +much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.] + +<p>[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis +cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis +axillaribus terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem +foliosam magis minusve congestis.] + +<p>[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis +remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis +longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely +distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus (R. +HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.] + +<p>[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis, foliis +rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis glabris +marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis perianthiisque +sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis, stylis glabris, +folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.] + +<p>[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis +apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque +glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below. +The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved +outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA. +W. I. H.] + +<p>[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus pubescentibus +glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis terminalibus, +bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.] + +<p>On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants +which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from +three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a +small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet +high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES, Desf.[***]; a +downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner truncated +leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the mountain, +grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but with the stature +of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high.[*] + +<p>[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis sphacelatoapiculatis +molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe attenuatis +uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus bracteisque +sericeis.] + +<p>[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis puberula, +foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-oblongis +spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis pluriesve +longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.] + +<p>[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus masculis +triandris.] + +<p>[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa, +foliis brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis +tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.] + +<p>[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis erectosubincurvis +longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti +subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis +brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix basi +cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are five, +six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA. It +differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.] + +<p>[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime +linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris subtus +albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis, ovariis +semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo glabro. +--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently purple.]</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-22"></a><img alt="" src="trop-22.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Lindley's Range</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter08"></a> +<h4>Chapter VIII.</h4> + +<blockquote>SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT +OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY +MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOÀ.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS +TRIBUTARIES.--NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY +ACCIDENT.--APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY +PLANTS FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT +SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPÔT +CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANÒA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER +SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES +OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT +ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A +DIRECT LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.</blockquote> + +<p> +7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the +completion of my maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the +birds seen on the Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I +had enough to do in my tent, although the heat was intense. + +<p>9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles, +to take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined +the sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious +organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my +absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone strata, +and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of sandstone +underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men were on +very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be +disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before +encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly +overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the +heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was +evidently discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain +commenced to fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during +four hours. Such a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I +could not be so vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our +benefit alone, I felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the +cavernous hill the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of +umbelliferous plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of +the COMESPERMA SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind +observed in September, it did not grow above one foot high. A small +shrub grew on the rocks, a pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A +Cunn. (from Port Essington and Melville Island); but the branches, with +their leaves, are more stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker +supposes it to be a new species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved +plant, with long branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which +Professor de Vriese has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural +order of Goodeniads, and which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*] +Thermometer, meter, at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, +64°;--with wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae +quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque +auriculato-crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne +appendice proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes, +cohaerentes. Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium +uniovulatum; stylus inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in +nuce solitarium. + Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho, +itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero +geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia +Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus +characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum +generibus huc usque cognitis, diversa. + L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis, +petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide +viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia +spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi bracteolatis, +corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis; paracorollis +nigrescentibus. + Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in +Nova-Hollandia subtropica. + Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII +de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est teres. +Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 1½ cent. lata, petiolata, +petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere ½ cent. longo, +integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata, fere +alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-lanceolatae, +utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere 10-15 cent. +longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi communes 5-10 cent. +longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores alterni, sessiles, +bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi, limbis obsoletis; +corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis, externe medio calycis instar +hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere +hiantibus, interiori mediaeque loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera, +filiformia, antherae his continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe. +--DE VRIESE.] + +<p>10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in +fine condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the +reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and +weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did +not think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer +sometimes above 100°, and therefore I was more desirous to retire from +it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit of +Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr. +Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I +ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea. +The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR, +PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous +form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow, closepressed +leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the crater +being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the summit. +On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had arrived +there at 3 p.m., the distance travelled comprising two former days' +journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none had +been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now +beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its +panicles of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four +feet high, was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy +variety of LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open +ground; the ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open +forest we found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA, +a spiny-leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the +EUPHORBIA EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr. +Stephenson and I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that +we only reached the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at +noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 82; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 59°. + +<p>[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis +linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis +nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus albopubescentibus. +--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves, +which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and in +the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a +broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.] + +<p>[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus +patentibus vestitis. G. B.] + +<p>[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25 +obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis, +racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus +ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.] + +<p>[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis +segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis +pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis +subtuberculatis.] + +<p>[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis fastigiatis +foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris, capsulis +globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan Cunningham +in Dirk Hartog's island.] + +<p>11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our +journeys of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warregò, I made +the furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing +through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us +here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a +few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at +noon, 80°; at 4 p.m. 88°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 52°. + +<p>12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys +into one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 p.m., the ponds at the +intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains +had left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our +horses on the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of +the HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the +scales of the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, +occurred in the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after +we set out in the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley +towards us, without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not +until he had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran +up amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop, +when repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small +bag on his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was +grey but very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully +frightened, which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained +from him some information about the ultimate course of the Warrego, +etc. We found water in one of the rocky ponds near our former +encampment, but others in which some had formerly been found, were +dry, and I was not without some doubt about finding water, on our way +back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at sunrise, 42°; at noon, 87°; at +4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb, 60°. + +<p>13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79° +here, where in June last it had been as low as 7°. The sky had been +clouded, but the morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in +passing amongst the sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount +Owen the day became very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On +Mount Owen Mr. Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow +flowers[*], and the SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink +flowers. We took up our old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest +of water. The ponds formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a +deep one in the solid rock, containing enough for months. It was +inaccessible to horses, but with a bucket we watered both these and the +bullocks. The mercurial column was low, the sky became overcast, and a +slight shower raised our hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient +quantity to relieve us from the difficulty about water, in returning +towards Mr. Kennedy's camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, +79°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°. + +<p>[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis +reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo +longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo +brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA, +but of the same form.] + +<p>14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at +daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather +heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our +former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the +Maranòa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the +large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th +June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it +might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent +supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer, +at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, +48°. + +<p>15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was +cold, the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The +morning presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather +being rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the +men dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at +first endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its +course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that I +left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former track. +We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old track at a +convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the camp of 15th +June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had cleared up, +and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing from S.E. On +the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or Australian +form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran before Mr. +Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little bush at the +foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like a hare, and left +a similar track. It was about the size of a small rabbit. The death of our +dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and drought, had been a very +serious loss to us, as we found on many occasions like this; and where +kangaroos, of apparently rare species, escaped from us from our having +no dogs. We were, also, from want of such dogs, much more exposed to +attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy. Thermometer, at sunrise, +45°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 50°. + +<p>16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze +from east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little +river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher +ground grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four +feet high. At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river +beside that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and, +early in the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next +camp at Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry; +but, on following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction +with the Maranòa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin +of water at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low +trailing bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of +a European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an +entire-leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS +BRACHIATUS, with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground +near the river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the +men eagerly asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern +NICOTIANA SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 51°; +--with wet bulb, 42°. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.) + +<p>17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point +this morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In +crossing Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent +natives. From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII, +where we arrived early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I +followed the dry channel down to its junction, and found the Maranòa +full of water; this point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We +had this day passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also +groves of the ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed +drooping, from the want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing +purposes. We saw, this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry +forest land; and the purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA +SPECTABILIS formed a spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA +LEIOCARPA, and CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new +MYRIOGYNE[*], and a small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt, +glaueous leaves, tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an +orange, proved to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**] + +<p>[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti, +caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis punctatis, +capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different from any +described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.] + +<p>[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis +crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris +dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.] + +<p>It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the +brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be +described. If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he +knows. + +<p>The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in +seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may +be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a +precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the river. +One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which, +falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much +hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man, +leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to +particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been +enforced by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32°; +at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 45°. + +<p>18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and +apparently dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the +creek. This loss, when we were so near our depôt camp, was much to be +regretted, as we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and +horse, after an absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days. +We saw not a single native about the woods or the river, and were, +therefore, the more anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives +had agreed at the depôt camp, now within a day's ride of us. We +continued to follow our former track to Camp XXXI, and it may be +remarked, to their credit, that the aborigines had not attempted to deface +any of these marked trees. It might have occurred, even to them, that +such marks were preparatory to the advent of more white men into their +country. The fine, deep reaches in the river, looked still full and +unfailing; and a short journey to-morrow would take us to the camp of +the rest of the party. We this day found a little jasmine in flower, of +which Mr. Stephenson had formerly collected the seeds. It was white, not +more than a foot high, with solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful +fragrance, and it grew in the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with +pods, which the natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker +to be the BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of +Cunn. Here was picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the +genus PIMELEA, with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and +by the river we found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS. + +<p>[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis +sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis, +pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis +longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.] + +<p>[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus pilis +paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.] + +<p>The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and +a half had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long +time to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained +undisturbed, although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by +savages. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9, +64°;--with wet bulb, 48°. + +<p>19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track. +Leaving the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country +so as to hit the track again within a few miles of the depôt camp. Old +tracks of cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE, +were the first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we +see any thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging +the river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even +recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they +see us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle. +Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the +cliffs, while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men +heartily responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and +was the first to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party +were well; that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the +aborigines had never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up; +a storehouse had also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and +contained lettuce, radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole +establishment evinced the good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale, +the storekeeper, had collected many birds and plants, and had also been +careful of the stores. The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown +very much, and seemed a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse +Mr. Kennedy had had with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my +instructions to him, was curiously characteristic of the tact and +originality of this singular race. On one occasion, when on being +informed that natives were near, he had hastened to meet them, taking +little Dicky with him, he found remaining only a female and her mother, +a remarkably old woman, who had before concealed herself among the +reeds. The daughter on his approach sung a beautiful song, rapidly +running through the whole gammut. Then bowing her head, she +presented the back of it to him, and placing her stone-tomahawk in his +hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the tomahawk on the +ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he prevailed on the +mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was much more +AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to denounce the +white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if prophetic of the +advent of another race, and the certain failure of her own. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-23"></a><img alt="" src="trop-23.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Old native female</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged parent, +playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully protruding lip. Mr. +Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the downward course +of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point also, that the river +passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she named, and even the +Culgòa: she seemed to say the name of that locality was "Mundì." +Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger wore, by way +of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac, suspended by a cord +from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the daughter, with a +graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to the stranger, +waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy and Dicky +immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy Dicky +away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday, +26th July. Prayers were read at 11 a.m., after which, having been told by +Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a +native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky +than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what +information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I +had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the +natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first +object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some +admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by +great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were +gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him +Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its general +course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our impression +was that he called it Bàlun. With respect to its course, he plainly said that +it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the direction of that river +and then following with his hand, the various windings of this branch; +repeating the while some word implying 'walk, walk,' and ending with +'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains Bindàngo and +Bindyègo. After this conversation he took some fat, which he appeared +to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing it, and +then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him, and (as +Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men, who +were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they +obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite +direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and +disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking +back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our +tents, and that no white man should go to his camp." + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-24"></a><img alt="" src="trop-24.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Aboriginal dance</b></p> +</center> + +<p>It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at +most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the +river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so +long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it, as +our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale, +the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of +the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August, +plants had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had +been found in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook. +EURYBIOPSIS MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA; +GOODENIA CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety +of BORONIA BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the +leaves simply pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new +species of EURYBIA and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA? +with the habit of Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose +LEUCOPOGON; a species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was +covered with wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA, +apparently the same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling, +but taller and less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed; +SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES +DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with +unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both +perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM, +with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves +nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM, closely +resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle of St. +Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the +Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****] A +beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****] A new +LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA VIRGATA (Hook. +MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new DODONOEA in the way +of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender flower stalks.[*********] + +<p>[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis +rigidis apice nudis, spicâ compositâ laxâ tenui villosâ, glumis pilosis, +paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta ligulam +villosis.] + +<p>[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis +elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis +crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin, +racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis +multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis, +ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten +inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.] + +<p>[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus +radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longè +pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.] + +<p>[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis linearioblongis +pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus +paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris, antherarum +calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers look at +first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN EUPHRASIOE. +The leaves are about three lines long.] + +<p>[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis +angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young buds +rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre having a +slight tinge of purple.] + +<p>[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis membranaceis +oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus villosisve, +calycibus subsessilibus villosis.] + +<p>[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis +patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis +crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio triplo +longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.] + +<p>[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-tomentosis, +foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra +pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis fulvescentibus, +stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis axillaribus +unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo longioribus.] + +<p>[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis +elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore, +pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis +rotundatis.] + +<p>In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS +SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES +LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.; +CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with +yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader +haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA +OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub +with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of +SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence; +SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA; +LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA +MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A. +HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both +sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river +Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct +from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill. +PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf, +herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A +PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS; +PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS, +R. Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA; +XEROTES LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM +BULBOSUM, R. Br. GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it: +exactly the same species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM +ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS; +BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA, apparently new. A new and fine species of +MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species +of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM, +with conical flower-heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple +flowers.[******] A new species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******] +Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 50°; +--with wet bulb, 47°. + +<p>[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis, +foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis +sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis, corolla +calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS Br., +but the leaves broader and flowers larger.] + +<p>[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis +rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis glandulosi +glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato, antherarum +calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P. RHOMBEA. +Flowers much larger.] + +<p>[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis 13- +15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice paucifloris, +legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with much the +habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller than in S. +CORONILLOEFOLIA.] + +<p>[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis, foliis +angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos breves +solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra medium +inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario parvo +globoso lanato.] + +<p>[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis +ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spicâ +conicâ, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosâ. + +<p>[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue +dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve +obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris solitariis +folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-fido calycem +5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was also found +by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple, sometimes +yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable, monophyllous, +broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the calyx.--W. +J. H.] + +<p>[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis ovalioblongis +sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis pubescentibus, +pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in pedunculo brevissimo +solitariis geminisve.] + +<p>20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the +blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the horses. +I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles eastward of +the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The hill +consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were +imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt +wood, and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of +wood, young shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire; +showing the black scarified parts, and those left untouched or +unscarified, very plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn, +and were full of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed +to the sun. These specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer +parts came off in soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant, +although they felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather +isolated, but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's +Pass, and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which +forms a nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this +hill, to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The +weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount +Sowerby; the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and +amongst the grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO, +perhaps not distinct from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise, +39°; at noon, 56°; 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 67°; with wet bulb, 52°. + +<p>21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to +which I had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle +from it on Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show +him many of the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was +about to lay down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land, +extending from the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about +twelve miles. On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little +PTEROSTYLIS, quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a +new KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious +new form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a +new JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short +axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley +after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet +flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the +LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a smallflowered +species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA +PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4, p.m., 84°; at 9, +65° with wet bulb, 52°. + +<p>[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis, vaginis +scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli laminâ +ovato-lineari obtusâ canaliculatâ supra pilis (luteis) articulatis crinitâ.] + +<p>[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve mucronulatis +utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-lanceolatis +acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris petiolo multo +longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably smaller +than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.] + +<p>[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris margine +spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spicâ cylindraceâ distichâ +secundâ, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente, paleae +inferioris dorso lanatae aristâ rectâ glumâ mucronatâ multinervi longiore.] + +<p>[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus +linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus subsessilibus +foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus subtruncatis 5-dentatis, +corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.] + +<p>22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the +natives, about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which, +even on foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from +the camp), and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES +PEELII had, at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this +river was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first +followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy +about. By following this down, the probability that we should find water +seemed greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left +behind some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water +remaining, especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I +therefore determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its +course. We left the depôt camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging +cliffs on the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The +camp we left, namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depôt camp," +will be found a valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first +squatter coming this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the +natives few and inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it +very complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had +become slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even, +indeed, perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had +fallen two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches +lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was +perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party, and +encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly crossed +by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats by +the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became darkgreen +not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not +depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive +as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with +them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the +grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of +bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr. +Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that +the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net +untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at +9, 70°; with wet bulb, 56°. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76). + +<p>23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the +drays, which only took place at ½ past 11, a.m. The cattle were found +to be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster. +Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the +Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and +directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the +rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA +DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid, with a +denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA +(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**], +were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at +noon, 91°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis +ovatiscordatis acutis argutè crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante, +pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis, +calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. +Backhouse MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive +range; having been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane +River by Fraser and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. +Cunningham.] + +<p>[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in +Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. +p. 147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.] + +<p>24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered +upon an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank +of the river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. +The cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the +plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of +twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water; +whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that +route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the +higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not +then suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course +was so favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of +these extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered +as they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was +open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central +downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very +remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the +camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this was +numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our +surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they will +not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also enable the +land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map of the +country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the afternoon, and +the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a clear starry sky, at +9 p.m., admitted of our observations as usual. Thermometer, at sunrise, +53°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 58°;--with wet bulb, 47°. Height +above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.) + +<p>[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis +integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus +terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have +broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers +and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20 +feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."] + +<p>25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I +had perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river, +or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by +ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we +approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub +contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and +brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn +eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more +extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the +east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped after +a journey of 10 1/3; miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due +south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered +with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our +former route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but +neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the +country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at +noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above +the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.) + +<p>26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranòa, about a mile from +our camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its +course throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of +these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranòa on +our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to +pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20° E. of S. At +length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N. W., +full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed the +main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of broad +blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of the +Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous +ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land. +Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the +river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the grass +was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered over +the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of +whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed +of the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish +(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in +the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings, +showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes +continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such +circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones, +some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the +nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and +made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted +wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or +moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I +could not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P. +M., 93°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°. + +<p>[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.] + +<p>27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and +found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an +islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course, and +contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the bush +was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she had +ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us without +any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-forward +course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the name of +the river; to which question she replied, in his own language, "The name +of that water is Maranòa:" thus confirming the name we had already +understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It proved the +accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first communicated to +him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The gin appeared +to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female wore no sort +of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal who may have +been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling about fourteen +miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and encamped beside it. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 77°; +--wet bulb, 65°. Height above the sea, 832 feet. (Camp 80.) + +<p>[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-ovatis +trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-serratis, subtus +bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet high. Flowers +scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan river.] + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-25"></a><img alt="" src="trop-25.jpg"></p> +<p><b>View on the River Maranòa</b></p> +</center> + +<p>28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I +most willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in +sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect +presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian +woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly +characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in +their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees; have +half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like the willow, +the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and I was informed +by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives call it +"Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in waterholes. They +are too honest and fair in their fights to think of poisoning their weapons. +The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly characteristic of its +deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline resembling +Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,-- + +<p>--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, +Pale misery had worn him to the bones." + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-26"></a><img alt="" src="trop-26.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Acacia VARIANS</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 a.m., after which we had a +cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass +for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel +dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at +noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 60°;--wet bulb, 51°. + +<p>29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so +much ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to +bullocks or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter +want of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country +was open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have +reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and drivers, +had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and measuring +twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this seemed +only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain what was +beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards. We +found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the +main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it +to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. +We discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the +Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and +covered with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face +being rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; +for which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling +those made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on +this shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of +the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of +these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed for +war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 68°; +at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 40°. + +<p>[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).] + +<p>30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the +dry channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of +our former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of +water was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which +was by following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush +would allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while +we proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having +halted the small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with +Yuranigh, but all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a +part of the sandy bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough +he thrust in, that there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I +returned, determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock +teams had also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that +Drysdale, having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had +been led to the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the +cattle had been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding +water the dog was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We +had come about fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on +the map. On doing this, I found we had at length attained a point from +whence, in case of necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if +no water were found in the country intervening, the direct distance being +under forty miles. During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, +higher up than the first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then +to proceed prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the +Balonne, but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would +oblige us to go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P. +M., 78°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 46°. + +<p>31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they +found a dry sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my +first ride from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I +was myself engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9, 51° +--wet bulb, 43°. Height above the sea, 882 feet. + +<p>1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose +beside Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. +After travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of +inundation, and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for +water, Yuranigh found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I +encamped, resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be +traversed in uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found +rocky ridges on the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives +in the woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the +aspect of drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral +country, traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I +think this want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in +that back country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, +the Cogoon. + +<p>2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, +prepared to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water +until we arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we +were to traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the +country appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel +of the river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of +sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle +formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the +north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run. +This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route, +along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranòa. +The water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line +along the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that +country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranòa, a supply +would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary +(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its +straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27° 31' 37" S., we +again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped. +Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 63°; +--with wet bulb, 61°. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet. + +<p>3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as +I had determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the +Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles above +that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through much +open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris always +appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length, plains +again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them, after +travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line, running +north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on towards the +main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from it, so that we +were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a half, after a +journey, with carts, of 26½ miles. Here occurred the only Epiphyte +observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts of trees +in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of Brown. +One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long. The +fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than usual, +at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an inconspicuous +weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA TRICHOSTACHYA was +there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a woolly. ANDROPOGON, +which appeared not to be distinct from the A. BOMBYCINUS. In the open +forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA OCCIDENTALIS, and on the +plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and +a creeping plant, with yellow flowers, since found to be a new species of +GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at +9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height above the sea, 819 feet. + +<p>[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne +dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis +corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a +distinct genus.] + +<p>[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus +longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus, +axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido, laciniis +lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava, labio superiore +fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio ciliato; flagellis +folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula prismatica, biloculari; seminibus +marginatis compressis; flagellis floriferis; floribus in axilla folii +ovatorotundati, auriculati, subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius +pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10 cent. longa, 1½-2 cent. lata, +apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum attenuata, subdecurrentia, +utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia flagellorum bracteiformia, +ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere auriculata, alterutra auricula +multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum illarum axillis, reliquis multo +minoribus neque ad normam perfectis, brevius pedunculatis. Affinis +species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.] + +<p>4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the +satisfaction soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the +majestic Balonne. This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames +at Richmond; its banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and +the merry notes of numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering +appearance; especially to us who were again upon a route connected with +home, and at a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen +that route. We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, +of the lower Maranòa, a river which had brought us in a very straight +direction back to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established +a well watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in +the more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark +is intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranòa x. being +marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge +cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already +felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled districts, +and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during seven +months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other +cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied it +so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think +sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when +I set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, +fly-proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of +it, "LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at +4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°. Height above the sea, 738 feet. + +<p>5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards +Camp VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depôt had been +stationed; the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were +visible along our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far +these parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had +advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this day, +we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on +a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their +running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot +until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the +tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been +accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before +then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not +think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed +of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives, +both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these +articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered +their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the exploring +party; and of the very favourable impression we had made formerly on +the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of this river. In +the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the ripe fruit of the +"Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in flower that we +thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at 4 +p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-27"></a><img alt="" src="trop-27.jpg"></p> +<p><b>St. Georgia's Bridge</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="chapter09"></a> +<h4>Chapter IX.</h4> + +<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE +MAPS.--EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY +RETURNS--AFTER SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM +SENT WITH DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY +CROSSES THE BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR +RIVER.--TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET +WITH.--CATTLE STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE +PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF +SAND.--AFTER SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE +BARWAN.--A FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES +NUMEROUS AFTER THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO +FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER +BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE +PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE +OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE HOMEWARDS.</blockquote> + +<p>5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of +angles taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to +the Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, +followed by Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country +in the direction of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of +1831; that was on the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing +about 20° E. of S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" +ponds, were said to water the intervening country, and I wished to +ascertain whether they were favourable for the connection of our recently +explored route, with the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, +when my journey, undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, +was accidentally frustrated. + +<p>Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with +the despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of +the Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish +maps and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from +excessive heat, under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of +the river were gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; +FUSANUS ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which +Yuranigh brought us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON +MACULOSUM, was also in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous +plant, has been determined by Professor De Vriese to be identical with +the Swan River GOODENIA PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the +cattle, proved to be a variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in +February on the Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be +the same as the G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. +Br., was covered with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy +open parts of the forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, +with the foliage of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with +short racemes of white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural +order of Bixads, and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] +A submerged plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of +MYRIOPHYLLUM, with tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, +was in flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit.[****] +A new ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a +forest tree twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[*****] A +fir-leaved CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to +five feet high.[******] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the +river-bank[*******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[********], completed the list +of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's Bridge. + +<p>[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis supra +griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo longioribus, +floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog. imbricata. ST. 5 in +margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc. plac. 3-par. STYLUS +simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus, verisim. carnosus.] + +<p>[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis +emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris, +fructibus tuberculatis.] + +<p>[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque minute +puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis glabris, +glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-floris folio +multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets are fewer +and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are wanting.--G. B. + +<p>[**** M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste lanceolatis +planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis +linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate +between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.] + +<p>[***** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis +integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.] + +<p>[****** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis +lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque +brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter +contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the +leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not +yet ripe.] + +<p>[******* M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra, ramis +strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis, pedicellis +plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a very +distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836, but +my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the +branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves +are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of +M. GLABRA. G.B.] + +<p>[******** I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis canescens, +foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis mucronatis v. +emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis folia vix +superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus brevissimis +obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--It has much +the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not quite so small, +and the teeth of the calyx are very different.] + +<p>15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than +was expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with +Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange) +horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the +project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now) +settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly +north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to +within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however, cost +the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the +direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not +magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden +almost parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or +finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men +were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he +had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from +the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these +gentlemen Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the +new Governor. + +<p>17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. +George's Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small +advanced party on the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S. +The channel was full of water, and thus we completed the last link +wanted to form a chain of communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the +furthest limits we had explored. The ground was imprinted with the +hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as if at home. The day was one of +extreme heat without any wind; the thermometer stood at 104° in the +shade. Yet the horses drew the carts easily twenty-four miles and a +quarter. We had passed over a country covered with excellent grass, +consisting chiefly of plains and open forest, with scrubs of ACACIA +PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs we found a new species of +CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and in the open forest ACACIA +NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus +related to SERICEUS; a new yellow CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species +of STENOCHILUS, with willowy leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] +Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9, +81°;--with wet bulb, 67°. Height above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.) + +<p>[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis setaceis, +foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra glabris subtus +ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis oppositifoliis +elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro brevi recto, ovulis +numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--Very near to C. +SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is more rigid, the +leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and the pod (which is +only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short stalk.] + +<p>[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis +longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis +acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima dilatata +subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--Leaves +three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and clammy. +Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of the +corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This difference in +the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing it into a distinct +genus instead of a mere section, especially as that peculiarity which gave +the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it not that the forms of the +corolla are so different in different other species, that they will not +furnish generic characters where the habit is similar.--G. B.] + +<p>18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been +above one mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of +some decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. +The season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that +between the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for +visiting the tropical regions of Australia. + +<p>Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a +species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but +less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger. +MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance +of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in rich +soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick +forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA +CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V. +LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; +at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 64°. + +<p>[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis rigidis +mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi in +petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis, +pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.] + +<p>[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima, +foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis, pedunculis +folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis campanulati +dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine puberulo.] + +<p>19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of +cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and +the channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species +of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels, +and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when +our young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my +attention to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white +woman going with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he +could ever have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was +amusing, as he pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as +something curious in natural history, to which my attention, as he +thought, would be rivetted: but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome +one to all the party. Soon two comfortable stations, one on each side of +the river, appeared before us; and the neatly dressed mother of two +chubby white children stood at the door of one of them. I had a +memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the other, to thank the owner +for lending him a horse; and there I first entered again under a roof, and a +most agreeable cover it did seem to me after living nearly a year under +canvass, in houseless wilds. These were cattle stations, and both +appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose, and upon a scale more +substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto seen in squatting districts. +The placing of two such stations thus near each other, is a good +arrangement, not only affording better security against the depredations +of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of solitude and loneliness +such places in general present; and in the outset of such a life, +implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of social union, on the +solid basis of mutual protection. + +<p>I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of +obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to +near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in +the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°; +at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S. + +<p>20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably +open forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. +Kennedy's track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided +back by an experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and +fell into a cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where +we fell into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree +at this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this +camp, the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong +leaves, and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and +belongs to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the +HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of +BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.) +cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a +beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white +flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS., +a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is +not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the +carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the +"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William +Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**] + +<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens, foliis +cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis dentatoserratis, +stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus solitariis +unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido laciniis +acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.] + +<p>[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis longe +acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis lateralibus a +margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris), umbellis +pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem +attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.] + +<p>Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and +the sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it +on this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any +reason to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the +beginning of April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and +inundate the country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so +was the rain. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 p.m., 57°; +at 9, 53°;--with wet bulb, 53°. + +<p>21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain +had set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy +day rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing +maps in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been +recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore, +a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had +prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such +change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region +so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that I +endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For that +reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous route of +Fort Bourke. + +<p>21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in +Poussin's picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole +year with scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so +long been due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had +fallen a year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much +indeed; whereas it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. +This was the only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded +our progress; the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and +we had still to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen +the marks of floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining +on my mind, that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out +of these flats as soon as possible. + +<p>On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni +waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel, +until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the +drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the +lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came +down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations +on the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water +might reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a +sand-hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected +in good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and +that we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by +which the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground +almost surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, +probably, render our passage out of that position difficult, even after the +waters had subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam +across this hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent +the inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than +sand to oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded +in arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet +four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above +it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that +the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained above +water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641 feet, or +about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to rise until the +2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day they began +slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded from the +dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began to present +clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather was slow, +and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their blossoms as +soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS PILOSUS Benth.; +a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again seen here; +CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches, and very +sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the appearance of a +sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only on the 7th that a +crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm for the cattle to +travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity of quitting that +camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us seventeen +days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged us to +tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this day +passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until we +arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I had +been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered +the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them, +however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight +direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former. +That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow +growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A +heavy thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I +was under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our +journey. + +<p>8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 69°. Height above the sea, +782 feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a +direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible +general line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It +seemed desirable that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my +journey of 1831), some miles above the point where I had formerly +reached that river; and thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, +falling into my old track about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of +Mount Riddell. With this view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S., +longitude 149° 11' E., I chose the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E. +of S.), for my homeward guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a +good firm surface, for sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at +the bank of the Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through +some open scrub, chiefly of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small +grassy plains; saw one or two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. +An improvement was visible in the quality of the grass, when we came +within the distance of about two miles from the river; and open forests or +plains of richer soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the +presence of the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we +saw no cart tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle, +apparently pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There +was still a considerable flood in the river, although the water had been +recently much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks. +Latitude, 28° 37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet. + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-28"></a><img alt="" src="trop-28.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Last use of the boats</b></p> +</center> + +<p>9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making +preparations for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, +and on reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable +place for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected +without accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river +at the same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the +river than that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the +number 87, cut on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want +of such a mark, could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it +should have been found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our +stores and equipment were carried across in the boats. These looked well +in the water; their trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret +that I had not reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its +channel had been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never +were constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were +creditable to the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole +party was comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the +Barwan, just before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had +fallen several feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 82°. + +<p>10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 a.m. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were +most tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my +tent, who remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, +the more they brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the +fancy," of which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, +although tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. +Some had broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained +by Yuranigh, that four other strange horses were with ours, having come +amongst them and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- +bouring station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the +horses at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone +forward with the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus +upon the "Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of +water, with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to +employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we +had crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the +yokes, drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very +well; "RARÎ NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, +and the horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an +early hour on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be +marked 88, in figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S. +This seemed to be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, +1832, at a similar distance from the main river. + +<p>11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 70°. We continued to +travel homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a +direct line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The +plains were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new +CANTHIUM, was in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which +Sir William Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely +differing from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the +calyx (not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or +blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a short +beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The +THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS +plant, quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous +pinnatifid leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with +stout needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met +with no impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although +without reaching water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect +to meet with any watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; +which latter river I wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to +meet with roads and inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become +rare in this intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, +and most exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed +through several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature +for the distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, +each seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble +in water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being +broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to trees +or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the plains, the +blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the eye: the +rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines, a genus +referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a new +POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****] Height above +the sea, 554 feet. + +<p>[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis, +racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a +SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river +species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the +structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a +slight curl at the summit of the keel.] + +<p>[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis basi +in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus didymis.] + +<p>[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus +subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis strictis +longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique ovatis lignosis +glabris brevi-acuminatis.] + +<p>[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus +linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo +brevioribus.] + +<p>12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 67°. Passing over a +similar sort of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first +leaving the camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where +the ground seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, +and cow-dung abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its +smoke being a valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a +little of it was burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious +plains than any we had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, +with great pleasure and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, +distant 61 miles. This seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen +laborious years, that had intervened since I had given a name to that +summit. It now proved the accuracy of my recent survey, appearing +exactly in the direction, where, according to my maps, I pointed my glass +to look for it. Like the face of an old friend, which, as the Persian +proverb says, "brighteneth the eyes," so this required clear eyes to be +seen at all; even Yuranigh, could not at first be persuaded that it was not +a cloud. This fine peak must always be a good landmark on these vast +plains, and may yet brighten the eye of the traveller from India, when +emerging from the level regions upon the Barwan. We next perceived at +a distance, a cloud of dust raised by a numerous herd of cattle, and came +upon a water-course, or branch of the Gwydir, called, I believe, the +"Meei." As I wanted to cross the Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; +met with another deep ditch or channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, +at three miles beyond that, another: none of these resembling the Gwydir +I had formerly seen. I had ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to +meet the carts, and encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of +these two water-courses. The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. +Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S. Height above the sea, 553 feet. + +<p>13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 a.m., 70°. The drays joined us +early, having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being +Sunday, rest for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. +I found we were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we +were from the camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in +with some road, when we reached the country to which I had formerly +led the way. At sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the +barometer had fallen 2½ millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight +shower followed, after which the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must +have caused much difficulty and delay to the party, as we were upon low +levels subject to inundation. Height above the sea, 499 feet. +Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 88°. + +<p>14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 76°. During the night, and +at day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky +appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 a.m. the sun shone +on the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a +channel of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and +still I doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the +Gwydir, having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I +had however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen; +and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread +plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not +extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in +these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named, in +former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey, +having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to meet +at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the year 1831. +Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7 p.m., 87°. +The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints but few +traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly, but nothing +else. No track remained along the line which I had so many years before +laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look out for a +stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my tent, +but not without some apprehension that the people he had come amongst +so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-Saxon +race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian stockman. +His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat about the ears +of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his hand explained +what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He had evidently +never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor of such a name +as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow hill," according +to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney he seemed to +require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come from the +station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out +from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his +brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest +of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no +further. + +<p>16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, +in looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The +lagoon was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; +but having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the +master and some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were +hospitably received. It was then about 2 p.m., and tea mixed with milk +was set before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled +eggs. Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for +sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking +much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled +eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr. +Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded +along a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led +horse. Before we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, +night overtook us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. +The cart-track was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way +without it, we were obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the +shelter of even a tree, until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not +above two miles off, but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the +inmates, and asking them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his +head, and said he had no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away +from these "abodes of civilized men," to look for my old track, which +had been traced along the base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold +outlines of Mounts Lindesay and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the +past, amongst clouds lighted by beams from the rising sun. After having +been long in unknown regions, time and distance seem of little +consequence when we return to those previously known; and thus the +whole day soon passed in looking for my former track. But I sought it in +vain; and was glad at night to turn towards the banks of the Nammoy, in +search of a cattle-station. Since I had first explored that country to which +my wheel-tracks marked and led the way, station after station had been +taken up by squatters, not by following any line of route, but rather +according to the course of the river, for the sake of water; and in such +cases, the beaten track from station to station, no matter how crooked, +becomes the road. Thus it is, in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, +that order and arrangement may precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS +come again." I arrived about sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the +Nammoy, where I was hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, +who rode eight miles in twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and +sugar for me, and who lived on very friendly terms with some old natives +who remembered me, and my first advance into that country. + +<p>18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 a.m., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea +750 feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw +many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I +endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and +wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who +seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with +my entire horse. + +<p>The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of +the richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the +river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally +eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery, +amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant +mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's +station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I +reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a +comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had +taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man +permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly +welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured +with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my +numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a +tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere +sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers +she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of +the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me +some days after.[**] + +<p>[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.] + +<p>[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of +medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave, +trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had +served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and +surveyor.]</p> + +<a name="chapter10"></a> +<h4>Chapter X.</h4> + +<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE +CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON +HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of the +aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR +CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF +THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND +THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE. +--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION +OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND +SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT +CROPS.--DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED +RAILWAYS.--Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS. +--ULTIMATE TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL +GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL +REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE +TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.</blockquote> + +<p>The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass +Lagoon arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January, +and the new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities +to the most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent +the names to England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought +deserving of Her Majesty's gracious pardon. + +<p>The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr. +Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive +(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light party +on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and obtained His +Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the river, and to +apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the equipment +of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle of March, +with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare horses, +with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen months. +The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy was +required to do. + +<p>* * * + +<p>Surveyor-General's Office,<br> +Sydney, 22d February, 1847.</p> + +<p>"Sir, + +<p>"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my +proposal for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small +party to be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose +to you a copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the +late expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you +will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions for +your especial guidance may permit. + +<p>"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains +so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you leave +the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the Balonne at St. +George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and thence by the +route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you will +proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying +tracing of my survey. + +<p>"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my +return route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far +in looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the +map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond +Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on +your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my old +advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps +(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warregò in +the direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is +very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can +scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed as +closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warregò may be +looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th June. + +<p>"You will next pursue the course of the Warregò upwards towards +Mount Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide +you to. You will follow up the Cùnno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on +your right or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my +horse-track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish +you would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track +from the head of Cùnno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively +open, in the direction of my bivouac of 11th September. + +<p>"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low, +but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass +your carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from +which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but +more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will +have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher part, +but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered valley, +which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus far, you +can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map, and +following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he will +no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It is +very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the Victoria +in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in which, should +your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party is to be +provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to your aid or +assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall have reached +the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in finding Camp +(72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to follow down the +watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the Victoria, and, as +you have been instructed to take an expert native with you, you ought to +find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting off large bends of the +river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st October, you must keep +by the river along my route back, and not follow the circuitous track +which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After about four miles +by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return track again crossed +the outward track over the downs, so that you may fall into the route +westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria. I fear you must +depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings, for ascertaining +the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th September. You +will see by the map how generally straight my journeys were between +these points, and how important it would be for you to know the situation +of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out westward in +the direction of my return route, instead of following the main channel +throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the northward. +Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever that +may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map +with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and +determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and +consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the +same means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your +guidance, I shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the +relative distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore +feet, either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average, +about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing, +you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon +becomes a habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry +about thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas +would do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces, +remove one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of +bearing, you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of +hundreds, ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each +change of bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket +for your watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this +important purpose. + +<p>"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of +equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and +allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You +may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so +obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will, +after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure, +adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different +latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find the +results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the variation +of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or west, and +when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with the rate +of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude. +You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that +may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be +ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of +reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of the +flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in a +small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the +determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a +convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the +accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view, +without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally +spread into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as +a general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any scarcity +of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more speedily +accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you would +cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the west. +On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have particularly to +caution you against remaining longer than may be unavoidable there, or, +indeed, in any one place, in any part of your route, where natives may be +numerous. + +<p>"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it +will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off angles, +by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and when so +returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the route +and the country may be better described by you, and recognised +afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on +trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence +them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus +avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the +Victoria. + +<p>"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in +charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your +journey. + +<p>"I have the honour to be,<br> +Sir,<br> +Your obedient servant,</p> + +<p>"T. L. MITCHELL,<br> +SURVEYOR-GENERAL.</p> + +<p>"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P.<br> +Assistant Surveyor,<br> +Sydney."</p> + +<h5>OF THE ABORIGINES.</h5> + +<p>There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less +understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal +natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity, +yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and +judgment to the white men composing my party. Their means of +subsistence and their habits, are both extremely simple; but they are +adjusted with admirable fitness to the few resources afforded by such a +country, in its wild state. What these resources are, and how they are +economised by the natives, can only be learnt by an extensive +acquaintance with the interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts, +bearing on this subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest. +Fire, grass, kangaroos, and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on +each other for existence in Australia; for any one of these being wanting, +the others could no longer continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass, +and form those open forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo; +the native applies that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a +young green crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable +him to kill or take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of +long grass also discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females +and children, who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple +process, the Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle +as those of New Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which +the white men now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the +kangaroo, which is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony +where cattle run. The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to +produce the extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of +existence; and this must work such extensive changes in Australia as +never entered into the contemplation of the local authorities. The +squatters, it is true, have also been obliged to burn the old grass +occasionally on their runs; but so little has this been understood by the +Imperial Government that an order against the burning of the grass was +once sent out, on the representations of a traveller in the south. The +omission of the annual periodical burning by natives, of the grass and +young saplings, has already produced in the open forest lands nearest to +Sydney, thick forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might +gallop without impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos +are no longer to be seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither +are there natives to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there +amongst the fences of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the +white race seems thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation +of the aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any +adverse feelings these may show towards the white men, that these +consequences, although so little considered by the intruders, must be +obvious to the natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter +on their territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of +the natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of +aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors of +aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race +has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency +still more destructive. + +<p>It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to +be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel +disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle +or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos +from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers; +but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly because +much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or cattle. No +orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of these +atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal obedience to +injunctions from home, and the policy of the local authorities has not +been influenced by less humane motives. + +<p>It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for +one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor, +and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of +Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth +Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and +resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary +to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback. +Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of +all the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and +quick ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though +uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards +the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the +willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself +before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean +in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair, +always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent +appearance. He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on +returning to Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never +before seen houses, and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the +theatre, and whatever else was likely to gratify his curiosity. +The boy was all questions and observation. I was at a loss how to make +these natives comfortable; or suitably reward their services. The new +Governor kindly granted the small gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and +Dicky became a favourite in my family. Both these natives loathed the +idea of returning to the woods, as savages; and, as if captivated with the +scenes of activity around them, both expressed a desire "to work and live +like white men." This shows that, when treated on a footing of equality, +as these had been in my party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to +take part in the labours of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old +freedom of the bush seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts +them back to it. Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular +agreement,) as stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and +he took an affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in +the country, with the intention of having him educated there with my +children, provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I +left the colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate +an aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children +should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon which +the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly tried. + +<p>This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much +interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the married +couple to another country, where the children might be educated, and +kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of sending +such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of Europe, +where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the grape, fig, +and olive, as well as the management of other productions of similar +latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with their +family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different language +from those about them, they would be less open to the influences that +interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony; while +the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it. Were this +experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition afforded by +industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation, and inspire +them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the white men, which, +without having some such examples set before them, must seem to them +unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a degraded position in +the presence of the white population: a mere outcast, obliged to beg a +little bread. In his native woods, the "noble savage" knows no such +degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and have a share of, +Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open to all. Experience +here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of other countries has +shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as free as Nature first +made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and come under all +the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from choice, unless they can +do so on terms of the most perfect equality. Surely it behoves the nation +so active in the suppression of slavery to consider betimes, in taking up +new countries, how the aboriginal races can be preserved; and how the +evil effects of spirituous liquors, of gunpowder, and of diseases more +inimical to them than even slavery, may be counteracted. + +<h5>OF THE CONVICTS.</h5> + +<p>The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring +parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were +chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had +acquired good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on +this last occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part +chosen from amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst +and most irreclaimable of their class. + +<p>The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to +follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous +surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as +labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to lay +the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great +advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on +the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of +war-steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and +private enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so +essential to an important harbour, had not the Government always +possessed the means of cheaply constructing such a work by convict +labour, and been thus able at any time to have entered into such +competition as might have been very injurious to a private speculator. At +Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths, shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work +in their various avocations; all the shoes, for both the men and horses of +the expedition, were made there; also one half of the carts, which proved +equally good as the other portion, although that was made by the best +maker in the colony, a celebrated man. + +<p>The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on +Cockatoo Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such +that even the most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts, +and seemed to wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the +superintendent. The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of +good behaviour in the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul +amongst these prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims +and pretensions, which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly +investigated by Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the +visiting magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at +length made, after careful examination of the phrenological +developments and police history of each; and it was not easy to find one +without a catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office +annals. Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by +physical developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party +from amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful +Irishmen, on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old +followers on former journeys, who had become free. + +<p>This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to +behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be +supposed to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the +convict character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have +been made to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year, +away from all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was +chiefly because these men were placed in a position where it was so very +clearly for their own interest to conduct themselves properly. +Accordingly, the greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the +highest satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring +hardships, and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to +do anything to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still +there were a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party, +animated by such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true +character, nor even disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the +achievement of their liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as +the "flash mob." They spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever +intent on robbing the stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS). +They held it to be wrong to exert themselves at any work, if it could be +avoided; and would not be seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation. +They kept themselves out of sight as much as possible; +neglected their arms; shot away their ammunition contrary to orders; and +ate in secret, whatever they did kill, or whatever fish they caught. + +<p>Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two +promising men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of +them was finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious +that the men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs +even, express sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and +still susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they +cannot afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence +against the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys, +with whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or +HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever +"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed +and more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be +so arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in +their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the +stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded +by savage tribes in the interior. + +<p>Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a +wide difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen +flour, refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my +younger days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life." +Convicts, in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one, +fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was +the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose principle +of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose reformation, +there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class, repented of their +crime from the moment of conviction; those of the other, know no such +word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing of hope and change;" +and would eagerly avail himself of every means afforded him to regain +the position he had lost; the other, true to his "order," will "die game." +For the separation of the wheat from the chaff, a process by no means +difficult, the colony of New South Wales was formerly well adapted. The +ticket of leave granted to the deserving convict was one of the most +perfect of reformatory indulgences; each individual being known to the +authorities, and liable, on the least misconduct, to be sent to work on the +public roads. The colony of New South Wales has been the means of +restoring many of our unfortunate countrymen to positions in which they +have shown that loyalty, industry, public spirit, and patriotism, are not +always to be extinguished in the breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters +and degradation. It is to be regretted that a more vigilant discrimination +had not interposed a more marked line between those convicts deserving +emancipation, and those whose services are still wanted on the roads and +bridges of the colony. + +<h5>OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.</h5> + +<p>There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to +render it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South +Wales or Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or, +at least, such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters' +condition is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country +without navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to +uncertain seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social +intercourse, and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man. +With equal truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth +susceptible of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity +of man. If there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome +savannas; if there are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of +forming reservoirs of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain +may fall, it is certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of +man alone is wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such +a clime, and under such a sun, that most important of elements in +cultivation, water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to +man's use than it is in other warm regions, where, if the general +vegetation be more luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water +for all purposes of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the +command of art and industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the +peculiar disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as +would greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of +human industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water +would be found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and +adjusted, by such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but +the natural product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural +resources exist, but require art and industry for their development, the +field is open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable +investment of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New +South Wales. + +<p>But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too +much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet +adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying and +adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which +deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been +corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the natural +fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in +favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable, +perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for +that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the structure +of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a small number +of these might be made to retain as much of the surface water as might +even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because the channels of +rivers are in general confined by high banks, within which many, or +indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into canals. To +such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied, had it +been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to work +together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere facilities for +constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill, and thus afford +means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not labour now too +scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in a manner suitable +to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation. + +<p>The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which +supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well +adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour, nothing +could prevent these regions from being made extensively productive of +both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to be ascertained +whether some parts of the country may not be made as productive as +Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of latitude, in the opposite +hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the development of every +branch of production derivable from industry in these regions. + +<p>[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the Society +of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever produced, I believe, +in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid, superintendent of the Botanic +garden at Sydney, from olives grown there, and seemed very clear and +good.] + +<p>Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and +upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior +quality; and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these +districts and the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict +labour, the progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and +climate, and, as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had +been much more advanced than it is there. + +<p>The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be +opened, have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is, +therefore, the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible +introduction of railways with much interest. In a country like that around +Sydney, where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by +roads in order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the +value and importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and +calculations have been made to show that a railway between Sydney and +the southern districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along +that line. The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open +undulating country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly +growing into importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway, +between that town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive +tracts of valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a +sort of centre. + +<p>On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best +lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has, +of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the rural +districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals who +had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the assistance +of settlers in the country.</p> + +<h5>CONCLUSION.</h5> + +<p>The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years +ago, a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The +location of settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms, +then much in arrear, and the division of the territory into counties, +hundreds, and parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to +settlers, altogether rendered necessary a general survey of the colony, +which work I commenced in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal +Instructions, sent to the colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827 +and 1837 was the most prosperous in the history of the colony of New +South Wales, when convicts made good roads, farms were measured up, +and the country was surveyed and divided into countries. Colonization +extended rapidly to the shores of the southern ocean, and Australia Felix +was made known to the British public. + +<p>The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the +direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent, +however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate +tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole +intervening country. My plans of exploration have been governed by +these views and objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was +intended to complete the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One +led across the Blue mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far +as the land seemed worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia +Felix and the southern coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to +the northern shores at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of +Carpentaria,--from which I trust that by this time my assistant Mr. +Kennedy will have returned to Sydney. + +<p>Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a +duty[*], I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan +which must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled +me to bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years, +and in the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at +the command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British +Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the +benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that +this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the +petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly +at the expense of the colony of New South Wales. + +<p>[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.] + +<p>It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words, +to point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be +available for the economical extension of that colonisation which the +expansive energies of this great nation seem to require. New South +Wales may be benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional +market on the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of +Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was +necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most +eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast. +It is now ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements +from the open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25° +south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table +Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country +but lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy +access to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the +intervention of any such formidable barrier between that interior open +country and the coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony. +Precisely on that part of the coast, to which the united channels of the +water lead, a harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent +naval officers. These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to +define one situation more favourable than any other that might be found +along that coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide +almost equally the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I +allude to Port Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has +been (I believe) called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of +the coast, at the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to +steam navigation. The occupation of the fine country on the rivers +Victoria, Salvator and Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for +supplies; and on the occupation of that back-country must again, in a +great measure, depend the establishment of a direct line of +communication between Sydney and the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +<p>At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of +route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon +require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a +commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which +might, by degrees, become an important town; where horses might be +shipped and conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards +of Torres Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible +description by Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's +Island, being both higher than the main land, might be connected with it, +by some permanent work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and +shelter and anchorage for other ships. According to the interesting +narrative of Captain Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and +convict labour might there be very usefully employed upon such works. +The head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian +Ocean nearest to Sydney, has appeared of more importance to the +colonists, since steam navigation became regular between England and +the Indian archipelago. Then it became more desirable for the colonists +to know the nature of the interior country between their capital and that +northern coast. The interior has been found very open and accessible; the +fine country at the head of the Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus +divide the whole distance into two equal parts, each of these not much +exceeding the distance between Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia +Felix; between which places mail-carriages now run twice a week. +Thus, while, by the extension of geographical research, the proper +fields for colonization are laid open for selection, and prepared for timely +arrangements on the part of the Imperial Government; the colonists of +New South Wales have promoted the general interests of their fellow +subjects at home, by the developement of the resources of the territory +around them. + +<p>He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed +the earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two +elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the East +Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important sea, +the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with deference to +Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through the +Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive names +on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the +country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25° South, where nature +has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the +country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian archipelago; +which two regions may be made conterminous according to natural +limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="trop-29"></a><img alt="" src="trop-29.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</b></p> +</center> + +<a name="appendix"></a> +<h4>APPENDIX.</h4> + +<p>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales.<br> +No. 30/1252.<br> +Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.</p> + +<p>Sir, + +<p>I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to +inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been +pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the +office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of +the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their +duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who, with +the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all +arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.</p> + +<p>I have the honour to be,<br> +Sir,<br> +Your most obedient servant,</p> + +<p>ALEX. M'LEAY. + +<p> </p> + +<p>To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire,<br> +Surveyor-General. + +<p>* * * * *</p> + +<h4>A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING JOURNEY.</h4> + +<p>THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW. + +<p>[numerals refer to page numbers in the book] + +<pre> +FERNS. + +Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212. +----assimile, 204. 212. +Nothochlaena distans, 212. +Grammitis rutaefolia, 212. +Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212. +Doodia caudata, 212. +Platyzoma microphyllum, 236. + + +GRASSES. + +Aristida calycina, 33. +Arundo Phragmites, 124. +* Anthistiria membranacea, LINDL. 88. +----australis PASSIM. +----sp. 97. +Andropogon sericeus, 62. +----bombycinus, 378. +----sp. 117. +Bromus australis, 61. +* Chloris selerantha, LINDL. 31. +----acicularis LINDL. 33. +Dactyloctenium radulans, 88. +Danthonia pectinata, 319. +----* triticoides LINDL. 365. +Erianthus, fulvo aff. 62. +Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349. +Lappago biflora, 364. +Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33. +Perotis rara, 139. +Panicum laevinode 60. AND PASSIM. +Pappophorum gracile, 319. +----* avenaceum LINDL. 320. +----* virens, LINDL. 360. +----* flavescens, LINDL. 34. +* Stipa scabra, LINDL. 31. +* Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187. +Triodia pungens, 177. 340. +Triraphis mollis, 88. + + +SEDGES. + +Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124. +----sp. 120. +Kyllinga monocephala, 100. + + +MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS. + +Damasonium ovalifolium, 31. +Xerotes laxa, 361. +----leucocephala, 198. +Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378. +* Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3 +Commelina undulata, 347. +Thysanotus elatior, 347. +Tricoryne elatior, 387. +Laxmannia gracilis, 365. +Dianella rara, 366. +----strumosa, 341. + + +GYMNOGENS. +Zamia, 209. +Callitris sp. n. 187. +----glauca, 298. +----pyramidalis, 93. + + +SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE). + +* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371. +----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124. +Beyeria, sp. n. 390. +Bertya oleaefolia, 290. +Euphorbia hypericifolia? 265. +----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348. +Hylococcus sericeus, 389. +* Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342. +Phyllanthus simplex? 106. + + +CUCURBITS. + +Cucumis pubescens, 110. + + +BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE). + +* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383. + + +FRANKENIADS. + +* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305. +----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305. + + +CAPPARIDS. + +* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257. +----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220. +----lasiantha, 102. +----Mitchellii, 36. +Cleome flava, 127. + + +STERCULIADS. + +Brachychiton populneum, 355. +* Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155. + + +BYTTNEBIADS. + +* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341. + + +MALLOWWORTS. + +Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260. +----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363. +Fugosia digitata? 387. +----sp. 64. +Malva ovata, 397. +* Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368. +----pisiformis, 362. +----* virgata, HOOKER, 361. +----filiformis, A. CUNN. 361. +----tubulosa, CUNN. 390. +----sp. n. 103. + + +LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE). + +Grewia Richardiana, 383. + + +MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE). + +* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342. + + +SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE). + +Thouinia australis, 390. +* Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273. +----* filifolia, HOOKER, 241. +----* hirtella, 191. +----* mollis, LINDL. 212. +----* peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361. +----* pubescens, LINDL. 342. +----* tenuifolia, LINDL. 248. +----* trigona, LINDL. 236. +----* triangularis, 219. +----* vestita, HOOKER, 265. + + +DILLENIADS. + +Pleurandra ericifolia, 362. +----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363. +Hibbertia canescens, 339. + + +CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE). + +Clematis stenophylla, 368. +Ranunculus plebeius, 362. +----sessiliflorus, 361. + + +PITTOSPORADS. + +* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224. +* Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97. +----lanceolatum, 272. + + +EPACRIDS. + +Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226. + + +CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE). + +* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353. + + +RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE). + +* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225. +----* eriantha, LINDL. 298. +* Eriostemon rhombeum, LINDL. 293. +* Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102. +----* latifolia, LINDL. 236. +----* pendula, LINDL. 251. +Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398. +* Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347. +* Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199. +* Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339. + + +CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE). + +Geranium parviflorum? 362. +Erodium littoreum? 360. + + +PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE). + +* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148. +----* pusilla, LINDL. 360. + + +BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE). + +Polygonum acre, 149. +----junceum, 85. + + +NYCTAGOS. + +Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362. + + +AMARANTHS. + +Amaranthus undulatus, 102. +Alternanthera nodiflora, 35. +----sp. 341. +Nyssanthes? 360. +* Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45. +----Janatum, 33. 88. +----* conicum, LINDL. 363. +----fusiforme, 383. +----alopecuroideum, 88. 91. + + +CHENOPODS. + +Ambrina carinata, 127. +* Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64. +----elaeagnoides, 29 +Atriplex semibaccata, 23. +* Chenopodium auricomum, LINDL. 94. +Enchylaena tomentosa, 102. +Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67. +----* thymifolia, LINDL. 56. +----* lanosa, LINDL. 88. +----* villosa, LINDL. 91. +Rhagodia parabolica, 53. +Salsola australis, 24, etc. +Seleroaena uniflora, 72. +* Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239. + + +FICOIDS. + +Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315. + + +DAPHNADS. + +Pimelea linifolia? 340. +----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355. +----colorans, 362. +Exocarpus aphylla, 118. +----spartea, 135. + + +PROTEADS. + +* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342. +* Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER, 265. +----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341. +----floribunda, 212. +----* longistyla, HOOKER, 343. +----sp. 276. +* Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397. +----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348. + + +DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE). + +Cassytha pubescens, 362. + + +LEGUMINOUS PLANTS. + +Acacia conferta, 174. 289. +----Cunninghamii, 204. +----doratoxylon, 289. +----delibrata, 258. +----decora, 359. var. 223. +----* excelsa, BENTH. 225. +----Farnesiana, 256. +----falcata, 221. +Acacia holosericea, 256. +----Simsii, 256. +----leucadendron, 258. +----* longespicata, BENTH. 298. +----ixiophylla, 204. +----leptoclada, var. 95. +----* macradenia, BENTH. 360. +----neriifolia, 386. +----pendula, PASSIM. +----pennifolia, 361. +----podalyriifolia, 221. +----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342. +----stenophylla, 81. +----spectabilis, 353. +----salicina, 56. +----triptera, 291. +----* varians, BENTH. 132. +----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333. +----* uncifera, BENTH. 341. +----viscidula, 340. +* Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236. +* Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH. 290. +----rhombifolia, 294. +* Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384. +----* coronilloides, CUNN. 384. +----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288. +----sophera, 390. +----occidentalis, 378. +----heteroloba, 251. +* Crotalaria dissitiflora, BENTH. 386. +----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120. +* Cyclogyne swainsonioides, BENTH. 397. +* Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363. +* Erythrina vespertilio, BENTH. 218. +* Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348. +Hardenbergia monophylla, 236. +Hovea lanceolata, 212. +----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289. +* Indigofera brevidens, BENTH. 385. +----hirsuta, 122. +* Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH. 258. +----scoparia, 339. +* Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365. +Labichea rupestris, BENTH. 342. +* Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273. +* Leptocyamus latifolius, BENTH. 361. +* Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62. +----australis, var. 348. +Neptunia gracilis, 362. +* Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131. +Sesbania aculeata? 106. +* Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363. +Vigna, an capensis? 339. +----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350. +----* suberecta, BENTH. 388. + + +ROSEWORTS. + +Rubus parvifolius, 351. + + +LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE). + +Lythrum Salicaria, 62. + + +RHAMNADS. + +Alphitonia excelsa, 201. +Cryptandra propinqua, 223. +* Ventilago viminalis, HOOKER, 369. + + +SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE). + +* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387. +* Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384. + + +STACKHOUSIADS. + +Stackhousia muricata, 362. + + +DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE). + +Carissa ovata, 393. +Tabernaemontana, sp. 341. +* Doobàh, 85. + + +LOGANIADS. + +* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341. + + +GENTIANWORTS. + +Erythraea australis, 366. + + +OLIVEWORTS. + +Notclaea punctata, 352. + + +NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE). + +Nicotiana suaveolens, 64. +Solanum ellipticum, 215. +----furfuraceum, 212. +----biflorum, 362. +----violaceum, 365. +----sp. 85. + + +BINDWEEDS. + +* Polymeria longifolia, 398. +Convolvulus erubescens, 353. +Evolvulus, sericeo aff., 386. +----linifolius, 339. + + +LEADWORTS. + +Plumbago zeylanica, 219. + + +RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE). + +Plantago varia, 352. + + +JASMINWORTS. + +* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355. +----lineare, 94. +----* Mitchellii, LINDL. 365. + + +EHRETIADS. + +Halgania, sp. 24. + + +BORAGEWORTS. + +* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258. + + +BRUNONIADS. + +Brunonia sericea, 341. +----simplex? 360. +----* simplex, LINDL. 82. + + +LABIATES. + +Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347. +* Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362. +Moschosma polystachya, 137. +Plectranthus parviflorus, 347. +* Prostanthera odoratissima, BENTH., 291. +----* ringens, BENTH., 363. +----* euphrasioides, BENTH., 360. +Teucrium recemosum, 31. +----argutum, 198. +Salvia plebeia, 366. + + +VERBENES. + +Chloanthes stoechadis, 298. +Vitex, sp. n., 212. + + +MYOPORADS. + +* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31. +* Myoporum dulce, 253. +----Cunninghamii, 214. +* Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273. +----* salicinus, BENTH., 251. +----* curvipes, BENTH., 221. +----* bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386. + + +BIGNONIADS. + +Tecoma Oxleyi, 291. + + +ACANTHADS. + +Justicia media, 31. 89. 361. +----ascendens, 97. +Ruellia australis, 353. + + +FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE). + +Morgania floribunda, 62. 384. +Veronica plebeia, 360. + + +GOODENIADS. + +Dampiera adpressa, 339. +Goodenia pulchella, 339. +----* flagellifera, DE VRIESE, 378. +----coronopifolia, 359. +----geniculata, 72. +* Linschotenia bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345. +* Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258. + + +COMPOSITES. + +Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62. +* Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75. +----cuneifolia, 28. +* Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378. +* Eurybia subspicata, HOOKER, 293. +Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359. +Erechthites arguta, 225. +* Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62. +* Flaveria australasica, HOOKER, 118. +Helichrysum bracteatum, 79. +----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83. +----semipapposum, 389. +----odorum? 362. +Helipteres anthemoides, 349. +----* glutinosa, HOOK., 361. +Minuria heterophylla, 64. +Monenteles redolens, 263. +* Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353. +Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347. +Podolepis acuminata? 289. +----rugata? 362. +----longipedunculata, 362. +Pycnosorus globosus, 353. +Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78. +----* arachnoidea, HOOK., 341. +Senecio carnosulus? 360. +----Cunninghami, 45. +----brachylaenus, 62. +Sphaeranthus hirtus 212. + + +HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA). + +* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306. +----* glauca, LINDL., 91. +* Myriophyllum verrucosum, LINDL. 384. + + +MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE). + +Angophora lanceolata, 81. +* Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235. +Eucalyptus sideroxylon, 339. +----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390. +Eucalyptus pulverulento aff. 91. +----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235. +----* citriodorus, HOOKER, 235. +----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204. +----bicolor, 390. +----* viminalis, HOOKER, 157. +* Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298. +* Melaleuca trichostachya, LINDL. 277. +----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262. +Schidiomyrtus tenellus, 340. +* Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198. + + +CINCHONADS. + +Canthium sp. 386. +----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397. +Pomax hirta, 340. + + +STELLATES. + +Asperula? 360. + + +UMBELLIFERS. + +Actinotus Helianthi, 345. +Daucus brachiatus, 235. +Didiscus pilosus, 593. + + +SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE). + +Fusanus acuminatus, 105. +Santalum oblongatum 101. + + +LORANTHS. + +* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102. +----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101. +----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224. +----* nutans, CUNN. 158. + +</pre> + +<p>[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-long) +on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).] + +<p>LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848. +<br> +<hr> +<br> +<br> +<pre> +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION +INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA *** + +This file should be named 8jxpd10h.htm or 8jxpd10h.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8jxpd11h.htm +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8jxpd10ah.htm + + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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